halfe long and about three quarters broad and little or nothing thicker then a French crowne They shew also foure Crosses of pure gold which they said a certaine Queene once tooke from them but presently fell lunatike neither could be cured vntill she had restored them In the open streets some Monuments are set on the walles in honour of certaine Citizens who died in a nights tumult when the Duke hoped to surprize the City I said that the Senate house is stately built in which they shew to strangers many vessels of gold and siluer of a great value and quantity for a City of that quality From Luneburg I returned to Hamburg whither I and my company might haue had a Coach for 4. Dollors But we misliking the price hired a waggon for three Lubeck shillings each person to Wentzon three miles distant from Luneburg Here the Duke of Lunebergs territory ends to whom each man paid a Lubeck shilling for tribute my selfe onely excepted who had that priuiledge because I went to study in the Vniuersities Here each man paied two Lubeck shillings for a Waggon to the Elue side being one mile and the same day by water wee passed other three miles to Hamburg not without great noy somnesse from some base people in the boat for which passage we paied each man three Lubeck shillings Let me admonish the Reader that if when we tooke boat we had onely crossed the Elue we might haue hired a Waggon from Tolspecker a Village to Hamburg being three miles for two Dollors amongst six persons Being at Hamburg and purposing to goe vp into Misen because I had not the language I compounded with a Merchant to carry mee in his Coach and beare my charges to Leipzig for tenne gold Guldens The first day hauing broke our faste at Hamburg we passed seauen miles ouer the Heath of Luneburg and lodged in a Village In our way we passed many Villages of poore base houses and some pleasant groues but all the Countrey was barren yet yeelded corne in some places though in no plenty The second day we came to a little City Corneiler through a Countrey as barren as the former and towards our iourneis end wee passed a thicke wood of a mile long The third day we went seuen miles to Magdenburg which is counted sixe and twenty miles from Hamburg and this day we passed a more fertile Countrey and more wooddy and they shewed me by the way an Hill called Bockesberg famous with many ridiculous fables of Witches yeerely meeting in that place This City of old called Parthenopolis of Venus Parthenea is now called Magdenburg that is the City of Virgins for an Inland City is very faire and the Germans speake much of the fortification because Mauricius Elector of Saxony besieged it a whole yeere with the Emperour Charles the fifth his Army yet tooke it not Howbeit I thinke that not so much to bee attributed to the strength of the City as to the distracted mind of the besieger who in the meane time sollicited the French King to ioyne with the Dutch Princes to free Germanie from the Emperours tyranny and the French Army being once on foot himselfe raised forces against the Emperour The forme of this City is like a Moone increasing the Bishopricke thereof is rich and the Margraue of Brandeburg his eldest sonne did then possesse it together with the City and territory by the title of Administrator in which sort he also held the Bishopricke of Hall and he lay then at Wormested a Castle not farre of In the market place there is a Statua erected to the Emperour Otho the Great founder of that City and Munster writes of another statua erected to Rowland which I remember not to haue seene In the Senate-house they shewed a singular picture made by one Lucas a famous Painter dead some thirty yeeres before where also is the picture of that monstrous German with all the dimensions of his body who not long before was led about the world to be shewed for a wonder This man I had not seene but in this picture I could scarce reach the crowne of his head with the point of my rapier and many of good credit told me that they had seene this mans sister halfe an ell higher then he In the Church that lies neere the market place there is a Font of great worth and a Lute painted with great Art the Cathedrall Church of Saint Maurice was built by Otho the Great very sumptuously where his wife lies buried in the yeere 948. and the inscription is that shee was daughter to Edmund King of England There they shew one of the three vessels in which our Sauiour Christ turned water into wine at Cana in Galile There be in all ten Churches but the aboue named are the fairest Hence we went foureteene miles to Leipzig being a day and a halfes iourney through fruitfull corne fields and a Countrey full of rich Villages the Merchant with whom I went bearing my charges from Hamburg I might haue hired a Coach to Leipzig for sixe persons those of Nurnburg bearing eight for 24. dollers and if a man goe thence to Luneburg he may easily light on a Coach of returne at a lesse rate so that in respect of the cheapnes of victuals in these parts no doubt I gaue the Merchant too much for my charges in this iourney Leipzig is seated in a plaine of most fruitfull corne ground and full of rich Villages in a Countrey called Misen subiect to the Elector Duke of Saxony and the Countrey lying open to the eye in a most ample prospect onely one wood can be seene in this large plaine The streets are faire the market place large and stately and such are the chiefe houses built of free stone foure roofes high there is a conuenient conduit of water in the Suburbs lying towards Prage the ditch is dry the wals of stone threaten ruine neither may the Citizens fortifie the Towne nor vse red waxe in their publike seales nor winde a Horne in their night watches as other Cities doe these and other priuiledges being taken from them in the yeere 1307. when they killed their Duke Ditzmanus in Saint Thomas Church Out of this City they haue as many Cities in Germany haue a beautifull place to bury their dead called Gods-aker vulgarly Gotts-aker where the chiefe Citizens buy places of buriall proper to their families round about the Cloisters and the common sort are buried in the midst not couered with any building Here I found this Epitaph the numerall Letters whereof shew the yeere when the party died FoeLIX qVI In DoMIno nIXVs ab orbe fVgIt And like Epitaphs are ordinarily found through Germany This Citie hath an Vniuersity and in the yeere 1480. the Students of Prage remoued hither to flie the Hussites warre but at this day the Vniuersitie is much decayed by reason that Wittteberg lieth neere hauing better conueniency for the Schollers liuing From hence I
built like the rest in Hessen Phellip his grandfather built the castle and William his father the wals For my dinner and my part for the coach-man I paide the fourth part of a Doller In the afternoone we passed two miles through woody mountaines to Myndaw in the territory of the Duke of Brunswike who is also Lord of the City The Riuer Visurgis runnes by it ouer which there is a bridge of stone vpon fiue Arches Here each man paid for himselfe and his part for the coach-man seuen maria-groshen for meat and as much for wine The beere of this territory is very bitter and like a potion makes one laxatiue The fifth day we passed three miles and a halfe through Mountaines for halfe the way and the rest through corne fields most fruitfull and dined at Norton each man paying fiue batzen and a halfe After dinner we passed two miles and a halfe to a poore Village through a like fruitfull plaine of corne and by the way we passed Namerton a City belonging to the Duke of Brunswicke In this Village each man paid fiue Maria-groshen The sixt day we passed two miles to the City Zeason through hils and fields of corne the building of the City is of meere clay couered with thatch but our diet was plentifull and each man paid sixe Maria-groshen for himselfe and his part for the Coach-man After dinner we passed three miles to a poore village through wooddy mountaines yet fruitfull of corne and pasture and through a great Fen and here each man paid seuen Maria-groshen The seuenth day we passed three miles to Brunswike through a fruitfull plaine of corne end a large Fen set with willow trees neere the City Many fields as we came besides the corne were set with cabage and rootes and within a mile of Brunswike we left on the right hand toward the South the City Wolfenbieten where the Duke of Brunswike keepes his Court and though he be so called of an old title yet he is not Lord of Brunswike which is a free City of the Empire seated in a plaine all the territory round about it being most fruitfull in corne The City is of a quadrangle forme and in circuit containes two miles being held greater then Nurnberg and lesse then Erford It hath high wals of earth fastened with willowes and is very strong hauing the wals on some sides double and otherwhere treble besides that it hath a wooddy valley between deepe ditches filled with water and is compassed with the Riuer Aneur Within this wall and riuer are fiue Cities distinguished by priuiledges but vnited by lawes The first seated towards the west is called Altstat that is Old city hauing almost at the entrance a faire market place and neere it the cathedrall Church called Martinstifft The second lying towards the North is called Newstat that is New city The third lying towards the East is called Imsacke The fourth lying towards the South is called Imhagen And the fifth which was built first of all and lieth also towards the South is called Altweg that is The old way This city of old was the metropolitan city of Saxony and had the name of Bruno and the Dutch word Vuick signifying a Village It hath twelue Churches whereof two haue the steeples couered with lead which being very rare in Germany is held to be magnificent the rest are couered with tiles one excepted which to my remembrance is couered with brasse which being lesserare with them is lesse esteemed and the houses are built of timber and clay In the yard of the Cathedrall Church there is the statua of a very great Lion which the Emperour Henry the first surnamed Lyon erected there From Branswike I went to Luneburge and the first day in the morning passed foure miles to a certaine Village through a sandy plaine and fenny wild ground and by the way we passed Getherne a village where the Duke of Luneburge Lord of this territory hath a Castle and he holds his court some fiue miles off at Sell. Here each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubecke shillings In the afternoone we passed fiue miles to a countrey house through like Fenny and woody wild grounds seeing but one Village in the way and here each man paid for supper three Lubecke shillings Next morning we passed foure miles to a Village Empsdorff through like grounds and here each man paid for dinner fiue Lubecke shillings the coach-mans part being reckoned for I formerly said that hiring a Coach from Franckfort to Hamburg we were tied to pay for the coach-mans diet himselfe paying for his horse-meat as commonly they doe After dinner we passed three miles to Luneburge through a soyle as barren as the former where each man paid for himselfe and his part of the coach-mans supper eight Lubecke shillings I speake nothing of the City which I haue described before but goe on with my iourney The next morning we passed three miles to Wintzon through a Fenny ground and woods of Oake yeelding some corne but sparingly and here our coach-man paid a Lubecke shilling for his Coach to the Duke of Luneburge whose territory endeth here Then we passed a mile further to Bergendorff and by the way our coach-man passing ouer the Elue paid a Lubecke shilling to the Officers of the Cities of Lubecke and Hamburg to which Cities this territory is subiect and gouerned by them in course the soyle whereof after the passage of the Elue is more fruitfull the fields being full of corne and ditches of water planted with willowes here each man paid six Lubecke shillings for our dinners In the afternoone we passed three miles to Hamburge hauing on the left side towards the West faire pastures and on the right hand towards the East woods of oake and fruitfull hils of corne From hence I passed by boat with a faire wind in three houres to Stode and paid for my passage three Lubeck shillings These things I briefly set downe hauing described these Cities before From Stode I wrote this Letter to Francis Markham an English gentleman whom I left at Heidelberg NOble Sir I gladly take this occasion of witnessing my loue to you which in a word I haue done omitting all ceremonies as your selfe haue giuen me example Onely for my promise sake I will trouble you with the short relation of my iourney When we parted at Eranckfort you know I had for companions of my iourney two Flemmings poore Merchants of Linnen cloth and a Dutch Rider and a Booke-binder of Denmarke I comming first to the Coach tooke the most commodious seat which these my worthy companions forsooth tooke in ill part yet neither their murmuring nor rude speeches could make me yeeld the place to them Wee passed through Hessen to Brunswike which iourney since you purpose to take I aduise you to passe as soone as you can that you may be out of your paine and come to more pleasant Countries for there you shall haue grosse meat sower
sea for feare of the abouesaid dangers had sent me by land with command to stay for him at Leyden To bee briefe I went to your mothers house where a seruant opened mee the doore to whom I gaue your Letters but when he scarce looking at me would haue locked the doore I took my Letters againe saying I had promised to deliuer them with my owne hand and so I entred with him and gaue them into the hands of your mother and sister who inquired much after you and so much after my master as I might perceiue you had made friendly mention of me in your Letters They entertained me with much curtesie being thus disguised for my owne seruant and when I went away your mother would needs giue mee six batzen to spend neither would any refusall preuaile but I must needs take them So I set a marke vpon these peeces left I should spend them and am not out of hope ere I die to shew them to you To the purpose at the dore I met your brother whom I had seene at Frankfort and was not a little afraide left for all my disguising he would haue knowne me Let it not trouble you that I tell you another merry accident I had in the same City of Breme Disguised as I was I went to the house of Doctor Penzelius desiring to haue the name of so famous a Diuine written in my stemme-booke with his Mott after the Dutch fashion Hee seeing my poore habite and a booke vnder my arme tooke me for some begging Scholler and spake sharpely vnto me But when in my masters name I had respectiuely saluted him and told him my request he excused his mistaking and with all curtesie performed my desire I will trouble you no longer but hope by some good occasion to imbrace you tell you all the other passages of my iourney In the meane time I go forward to Leyden in Holland you as you do euer loue me and as my soule liue and farewell From Emden the twenty one of October 1592. I paied twenty foure Stiuers for my passage eleuen miles in a waggon from Stode to Breme And the first day after breakefast wee passed three miles to Ford a poore Citie subiect to the Bishop of Breme through wilde fenny and woody grounds The Towne is seated in a Fenne hauing a long paued Causey to passe vnto it and the gate being opened to vs by night each man gaue the Porter two Lubeck shillings and by the way in a village ' each man paied six Fenning for his person At Ford the Bishop of Breme hath a Castle strongly fortified with Rampiers of earth and deepe ditches full of water and here each man paied for his supper three Lubeck shillings and a halfe The waggoner taking me thus disguised as formerly I haue said for a poore Bawre said these words to me in Dutch Du knecht hilff zu tragen die packe hye that is Ho good fellow helpe here to carry this pack I answered ya gar gern yea most willingly and smiling laied my shoulder to the burthen and groned deepely but helped him very little Next morning early by Moone light we passed on three miles through large and wilde woods to a Countrey house and by the way my companions fell in talke of English affaires so foolishly as my laughter though restrained had often betraied me if twi-light had not kept mee from being seene Their ignorance greatly shortned my way with the pleasure I took in their answeres to some such questions propounded by me whereof my selfe had many times beene forced to giue an account to others By the way they shewed mee a Hill called Meineidig of certaine false witnesses of old sinking there into the ground At this Countrey house each man paied for his breakfast three Lubeck shillings and a halfe Then from sixe of the clocke in the morning till nine we passed fiue miles to Breme through an Heath and many huge Woods of Oake hauing towards the South a Fenne of tenne miles length which of the vastnesse and wildenesse is called the Diuels Fenne By the way within a mile of Breme each man paied halfe a Sesling tribute to the officers of the City and from thence wee passed a winding paued Causey to the very City Men may also passe from Hamburg to Breme by water This Citie is one of the Imperiall free Cities and of them which vpon this Sea-coast are called Hans-steten for freedome of trafficke and it is very strongly fortified with high walles of earth and deepe ditches filled with water besides that the Citizens may drowne the Fenny fields almost round about at pleasure The building of this as also of the neighbour Cities is partly of bricke partly of stone and very faire but the streets heere are filthy The Citie is fiue miles distant from the sea And the riuer Visurgis running from the South east to the North VVest by the South west side of the City runneth al the length of the same On the North east side the walles of earth are broad and there bee three faire gates with strong Rampiers Vpon the South West side being compassed all with Fennes there bee no walles In the furthest angle or corner towards the North west where the City growes narrow there is a strong Fort built the gate is within an Iland beyond which lies a plaine of faire pastures Osen-bridge lies not farre hence from which towne great quantity of narrow linnen cloth is brought into England At Breme I paied halfe a Doller for dinner supper and breakfast and a stiebkin or measure of wine extraordinary They had heere also the custome of making strangers free and the same ceremony of giuing salt to sweare by and I confessing that I was not free committed my fine to their censure hoping they would deale better with mee for my poore disguised habit but it saued me nothing the chiefe man saying to mee in Dutch Gutt gesell du must gedult haben es geit gleich bistu knecht oder here deise gewonheit betrefft beyde zu gleich That is good fellow thou must haue patience it is all one whether thou beest a seruant or a master this custome toucheth both alike After dinner taking my iourney from Breme wee passed a mile vpon a stony Causey called Steinweck that is stony way and there each man paied to the officers of Breme a quarter of a Stiuer Then entering the Territory of the Graue that is Count of Oldenburg we passed a mile through faire pastures compassed with ditches of water to a village where each man paid a Sesling to the Count and to this place each man paid for his Waggon fiue groates Here when my companions had drunke their fill and had slept a while in the straw as my selfe did vpon a bench to shun the stinking heat of the stoue we hyred another waggon for three miles paying fifteene groats and that we might more securely passe wee tooke our iourney
we had striuen yea and repined against his diuine prouidence which with humble and hearty sorrow I confesse to the glory of his sacred name In this Iland I paied for my supper and bed ten stiuers for my breakfast and dinner eight stiuers On Wednesday we had a most faire winde but the terrour of our last escape made vs stay in the harbour In the euening I went to lodge in the village and paied tenne stiuers for my supper and bed and there I saw great store of all kindes of shel-fish sold for a very small price Since this iourney by Sea had besides our expectation proued so difficult my selfe though I had seene the Cities vpon the sea coast of Germany yet preferring my safety before the charge and trouble of that way did resolue to passe to Hamburg by land with which purpose when I acquainted my consorts suddenly al the passengers resolued to leaue the ships and to go by land at which resolution the Masters of the ships stormed but when each of vs had payed them a Doller for our passage from Amsterdam to the Fly they were well pacified My selfe and nine consorts in my company hired a boat for thirty stiuers each man paying three stiuers and so vpon Thursday in foure houres space wee sailed three miles to Harlingen a City of west Freesland passing the aforesaid Inland sea And the same day hiring a boat for which each man paied six stiuers wee passed a mile to the City Froniker where is an Vniuersity and passing by water through the midst of that pleasant little City we passed two miles further to Lewerden where we lodged and I paied for my supper ten stiuers The next morning being Friday wee passed in six houres space two long miles to Dockam and each man paied for his boate hire three stiuers Without delay in the afternoone we entred a barke to saile from West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces into East Freesland a Prouince of the German Empire but scarce one mile from the towne we cast anchor to expect the floud and lying there we heard from the land great noise barking of dogs cries of men and sounding of bells which proceeded from some Spanish Free-booters breaking out of Groning to spoile the Peasants All the next day wee sailed and in the euening for our better safety wee cast anchor neere a man of warre whereof there be some appointed to lie in this Inland Sea to guard the friends of the States and early the next morning being Sunday wee set saile and by the rising of the sunne landed in the Iland of Rotermere which is diuided from the continent by this Inland Sea and hath the maine Sea on the other side whence soone after we parted and were put on land in East Freesland a Prouince of the Empire and passing one mile on foot came to the City of Emden I said that the States maintained some men of warre in this Inland Sea and these vsed to send out in lesser boates some bodies of men to search the Barkes whether they be friends or not which bodies of men are vulgarly called Dieiagt that is the hunting of a metaphor taken from the hunting of dogs For my passage from Dockam to Emden I paid ten stiuers and here for supper and breakefast I paid twenty three stiuers though the ordinary rate be but sixe stiuers a meale without wine and for a pound of cherries I paid eight stiuers In our iourney to Stode the first day wee came in sixe houres space three miles to the village Detrem vpon the confines of the county of Emden passing through fruitfull corne fields and faire meadowes and being eight in the Waggon we all paid fifteene stiuers for the same From hence we went a mile through wild and fenny fields to the village Open and each foure consorts paid for their Waggon three stiuers and our Waggon was driuen by a woman Here the Graue or Count of Oldenburg hath a Castle and each man paid for his supper seuen groates By night we passed foure miles through a wild heath to Oldenburg and foure consorts paid ten stiuers for a Waggon They haue very little horses in these parts to draw the Waggons like to the gallo way nags of Scotland The second day wee passed two miles and a halfe in foure houres space through a sandy heath ground and thicke woods of oake and came to a Village where each man paid for his dinner foure stiuers After dinner we passed more then a mile through a like wooddy Heath and in three houres space came to Delmerhurst where the Count of Oldenburge hath a faire and strong Castle though it be a poore Village and here each man paid halfe a stiuer to the Count and for our Waggon ten stiuers The same day we passed a mile through sandy pastures and in three houres space came to Breme where each man paid for our Waggon foure groats and for our supper fiue lubecke shillings From Breme we passed foure miles through wild fields yeelding some little corne and thicke woods and in sixe houres space came to a poore house where each man paid for dinner fiue lubecke shillings Here those which carried any merchandise paid tole and one man hauing a packe which a man might carry on his shoulder paid foure lubecke shillings for the same but all that goe to study in Vniuersities or be no Merchants are free from this imposition After dinner we passed three miles in fiue houres space to Furd where each man paid for his supper fiue lubecke shillings The next day from two of the clocke in the morning to seuen wee passed three miles through a heath and woods of oake and came to Stode where each man paid for his Waggon from Breme twenty two Lubecke shillings At Stode I paid for my dinner in a Dutch Inne foure Lubecke shillings and a halfe and for a steifkin or measure of Rhenish wine halfe a doller I briefly passe ouer this iourney vpon the sea-coast of Germany because I formerly discribed the same The one and twenty of Iuly I passed in foure houres space by boat fiue miles to Hamburge and paid for my passage by water three Lubecke shillings for my supper foure and one for my bed Early in the morning I passed six miles in sixe houres space through wild fenny fields woods of oake and some few fields of corne and came to the Village Altslow seated in a bogge whereof it hath the name where I paid for my dinner fiue Lubecke shillings and a halfe Giue me leaue to tell you a ridiculous toy yet strange and true At Hamburge gate leading to Lubecke we found a dogge that followed vs and some passengers of credit assured mee that for many yeeres this dogge had lien at that gate and euery day without intermission watching the first Coach that came forth had followed the same to this village Altslow being the bayting place at noone and after dinner had returned backe to Hamburge gate with
ridiculous and that they were in great part vndertaken by bankerouts and men ofbase condition I might easily iudge that in short time they would become disgracefull whereupon I changed my mind For I remembred the Italian Prouerbe La bellezza di putana la forza del'fachino c. nulla vagliano that is the beauty of a Harlot the strength of the Porter and to omit many like Musicke it selfe and all vertues become lesse prized in them who set them out to sale Also I remembred the pleasant fable that Iupiter sent raine vpon a Village wherewith whosoeuer was wet became a foole which was the lot of all the Inhaitants excepting one man who by chance for dispatching of businesse kept within doores that day and that when he came abroad in the euening all the rest mocked him as if they had beene wise and he onely foolish so as he was forced to pray vnto Iupiter for another like shower wherein he wetted himselfe also chusing rather to haue the loue of his foolish neighbours being a foole then to be dispised of them because he was onely wise And no doubt in many things wee must follow the opinion of the common people with which it is better regarding onely men to be foolish then alone to be wise I say that I did for the aforesaid causes change my mind and because I could not make that vndone which was done at least I resolued to desist from that course Onely I gaue out one hundred pound to receiue three hundred at my returne among my brethren and some few kinsmen and dearest friends of whom I would not shame to confesse that I receiued so much of gift And lest by spending vpon the stocke my patrimony should be wasted I moreouer gaue out to fiue friends one hundred pound with condition that they should haue it if I died orafter three yeeres should repay it with one hundred and fifty pound gaine if I returned which I hold a disaduantageous aduenture to the giuer of the money Neither did I exact this money of any man by sute of Law after my returne which they willingly and presently paid me onely some few excepted who retaining the very money I gaue them deale not therein so gentleman-like with me as I did with them And by the great expences of my iourny much increased by the ill accidents of my brothers death and my owne sickenesse the three hundred fifty pounds I was to receiue of gain after my return the one hundred pounds which my brother and I carried in our purses would not satisfie the fiue hundred pound we had spent though my brother died within the compasse of the first yeere but I was forced to pay the rest out of my owne patrimony Gentle Reader I will no longer trouble thee with these trifles onely in the behalfe of them who for a reasonable gaine and vpon long iournies and not vpon ridiculous aduentures haue put out their mony in this sort Giue leaue to me howsoeuer I desisted from that course to adde this All manners of attire came first into the City and Countrey from the Court which being once receiued by the common people and by very Stage-players themselues the Courtiers iustly cast off and take new fashions though somewhat too curiously and whosoeuer weares the old men looke vpon him as vpon a picture in Arras hangings For it is prouerbially said that we may eate according to our owne appetite but in our apparell must follow the fashion of the multitude with whom we liue But in the meane time it is not reproch to any who of old did were those garments when they were in fashion In like sort many daunces and measures are vsed in Court but when they come to be vulgar and to be vsed vpon very stages Courtiers and Gentlemen think them vncomely to be vsed yet is it no reproch to any man who formerly had skill therein To conclude that I may not trouble you with like examples which are infinite I say that this manner of giuing out mony vppon these aduentures was first vsed in Court and among the very Noble men and when any of them shewed thereby extraordinary strength the most censorious approued it but when any performed a long iourny with courage and discretion no man was found who did not more or lesse commend it according to the condition of the iourney performed Now in this age if bankerouts Stage-players and men of base condition haue drawne this custome into contempt I grant that Courtiers and Gentlemen haue reason to forbeare it yet know not why they should be blamed who haue thus put out their mony in another age when this custome was approued A man may iustly say it is great iniustice that our actions should be measured by opinion and not by reason but when a man leaues any custome that hath beene approued left hee should oppose himselfe to the common people a monster of many heads the most enuious hath nothing whereat they may iustly carpe And if any measure may be imposed to detracters surely they must spare them who vndertake long voyages ful of great dangers who doe not put out their money in Tauernes or at feasts to any man without distinction but dispose of their money with their friends vpon reasonable aduenture of gaine which in absence they cannot otherwise dispose to profit Finally who being not rich by patrimony take these iournies onely for experience and to be inabled to that expence doe condition this reasonable gaine I say the detracters must spare these and distinguish them from others who make cursorie iournies without any desire to better their vnderstanding thereby and more from those who in these courses rather make triall of their bodies strength then of their mindes abilitie And most of all from those who expose themselues to the scorne of men by base and ridiculous aduentures or that little differ from selfe-murtherers in vndertaking desperate actions for gaine In the same yere 1595 wherein some few months past I returned into England from my former iourney I now set forth againe towards Ierusalem and vpon the twentie nine of Nouember after the old stile I and my brother consort of my iourney went by water twentie miles which are seuenteene miles by land from London to Grauesend in a boat with two Oares for which we payed two shillings sixe Pence At last the winde seruing vs vpon the seuenth of December in the euening we set saile at an ebbing water and vpon the eighth of December in the afternoon hauing passed the Riuer Thames wee cast anchor vpon the shoare of England right before the Village Margets Then in the twilight of the euening wee put to Sea and the ninth of December entring the narrow Sea of Zealand vpon our call a boat came out of Vlishing to vs in which we went thither leauing our ship which went forward to Midleburg and each man paying a doller for his passage The eleuenth of December
Burgundians who in the Raigne of Charles the seuenth and in the yeere 1422 by a sudden conspiracy cast out and killed the Burgundians lying there in garrison and salted their dead bodies in a vessell of stone which they shew to this day They name three iurisdictions or commonalties which it seems of old had foolish and great priuiledges La Basoche de Paris Les Cornards de Rouen La Mere Folle de Dijon Of the Cities they say Paris la grande the Great Rouen la riche the Rich Orleans la belle the Faire Dijon la Folle the Foolish Anger 's basse ville hauts clochers riches putaines pounres Escoliers Low City high Steeples rich Whores poore Schollars They say vulgarly Les Badauts the Fooles or as we say Cocknies di Paris Les Cornards the foresaid society of horned Di Rouen Les Gue spins the word hath some reference to Vespae a Latin word signifying those that carry dead bodies to be buried by night but the French can hardly giue a true signification of it d'Orleans Les Copienx the copious for their art in ieasting de Flesche Les fanx tosmoings the false witnesses quatorze pour vn'fromage foureteene for a Cheese du Manz 〈◊〉 the nouices or simple men de Solongne qui s'abusent toussiours a leur profit which are abused alwaies to their owne profit as if vnder colour of simplicity they were most crafty Of three Cities of Champaigne Les Graniers the Garners as full of Corne de Challons Les Caues the Cellars as full of wine de Reims Les Bourses the Purses as full of money de Troyes They say vulgarly Ily a plue de Monmartre a Paris que de Paris a Monmartre This speech Ily a is ambiguous or of diuers significations vulgarly it should be thus vnderstood It is further from Monmartre to Paris then from Paris to Monmartre but in this place it is thus meant There is more of Monmartre within Paris then of Paris vpon Monmartre because almost all the Houses of Paris are plastered ouer and the matter of this plaster is daily brought into Paris from Monmartre Also A Monmartre Ily a plus de Putains que de vaches Mais ostes en les Nonnains Ily aura plus de vaches que de Putains At Monmartre there be more Whores then Cowes But take away the Nunnes and there will be more Cowes then Whores Also Fromages Cheeses d' Auuergne Angelots a kinde of Cheese de Brie Andouilles Intrals or Trypes de Troye Saueisses Sawsages du Pont l'Euesque Chapons Capons du Mans. Moutarde Mustard de Dijon Pruneaux Prunes de Tours Marrons great Chesnuts de Lyon Pain d'espice Spiced Bread de Reims Raues rape rootes de Limosin Pesches Peaches de Corheil pain Bread de Genesse The Italiaus say that the manner of the French is Di non dire quando vogliono fare di non legger ' come Scriuotio e di non santare come notano Not to speake that they will doe not to reade as they write not to sing as they pricke England in generall is said to be the Hell of Horses the Purgatory of Seruants and the Paradice of Weomen The Londiners pronounce woe to him that buyes a Horse in Smyth-field that takes a Seruant in Pauls-Church that marries a Wife out of Westminster Londiners and all within the sound of Bow-Bell are in reproch called Cocknies and eaters of buttered tostes The Kentish men of old were said to haue ray les because trafficking in the Low-Countries they neuer paid full payments of what they did owe but still left some part vnpaid Essex men are called calues because they abound there Lankashire egge-pies and to be wonne by an Apple with a red side Norsorlke wyles for crafty litigiousnes Essex stiles so many as make walking tedious Kentish miles of the length Northumberland men exercised in roades vpon the Scots are accounted best light Horsemen Cornish men best Horse riders and Wrastlers and most actiue men Lincolneshire Belles and Bag pipes Deuonshire Whitepots Tewksbery Mustard Banberry Cakes Kings-Norten Cheese Sheffeld kniues Darby Ale are prouerbially spoken of I hastily passed through part of Scotland bordering vpon England and had no skill in the Irish tongue so as I obserued no such Prouerbs in those Kingdomes The second Booke CHAP. I. Of the fit meanes to trauell and to hire Coaches and Horses HEreof I must intreate briefely and howsoeuer the subiect be large yet I wil compendiously restraine this my discourse praying him that desireth more plaine instruction in any particular to reade the following discourse in this third Part of these Nations diet in generall and expences in their Innes as also to gather particular obseruations for his vse out of my daily iournies related in the first Part. The greatest part of Germany is a plaine Countrie with few Hilles and almost no Mountaines but it is full of vast Woods and the soile is either sandy or for the most part drie and little subiect to durt so as they vse commonly Coaches for their iournies which are easily to be found in any City neither shall a passenger long stay for companions to fill vp the Coach so as by this constant manner of trauelling hee shall not be put to any extraordinary charge From Hamburg to Nurnberg being nine daies iourney I remember that sixe of vs in company hired a coach for fifty dollers That fiue of vs for two dayes iournies paid fiue dollers That foure of vs for three daies iorney payed seuen dollers for our Coach But in our iourney from Hamburg to Nurnberg we paied for our Coachmans diet himselfe paying for his horses meate whereas in the other iournies he paied also for his owne diet The ordinary Coaches hold sixe consorts but those of Nurnberg receiue eight bearing two in each boote on the sides But if companions bee not readily found to fill the Coach the passengers shall doe better in going forward with such company as they haue and the Coachmen will rather goe for lesse then stay in the Inne and spend more in expecting the full number The top of the Coaches is made with round hoopes couered with lether or for the most part with black cloath which are buckled together in the middest when it raines or the weather is cold for otherwise the hoopes fastned with staples of Iron to the body of the coach fall backward to the ends so as the passengers may sit in the open aire In lower Germany a passenger commonly payes about foure Lubeck shillings for each meale In middle Germany he shall pay about foure Batzen And in higher Germany he shall pay about sixe or seuen batzen each meale and all passengers sit at one common table At the foote of the Alpes where the fall of waters make the waies durty they vse to ride on horsebacke Sweitzerland consists of hilles and Mountaines so as they likewise trauell on horsebacke And there the passenger shall commonly pay some fiue or sixe batzen each meale The horses in both places are to bee
armes diuide the City and the Suburbs on that side are more strongly fortified then other where The City ioyned with the Suburbs is of a round forme and in the Suburbs on this side the Fugares haue built many houses to be let for a gulden yeerely to the poore that are Papists On the North side the wals are higher built and the ditches are deepe filled with water and there be foure other gates this side of the City lying lowest the fields without are as I said all drowned with water Here each man paid for each meale six or seuen Batzen I paid for two meales and my horse meat twenty three Batzen This City hath a very faire conduit called the Stately Workmanship vulgarly Statlich Kunst and the fountaine of the water is ten miles from the City There be ten very faire Churches In the Cathedrall Church it is written in golden letters that the bowels of Otho the Emperour are buried there Also there is a curious picture of Christ praying in the garden whilst his Disciples slept and vpon a very faire Clocke are three statuaes of the three Kings of Colen so they call the Wise Men of the East and these carried about by a circle of iron worship Christ when the Clocke strikes In the Senate House where the imperiall Parliaments vulgarly called Reichs-tagen haue often beene held I found nothing to answere the magnificence of this City onely on the gates this is written Wise men build vpon the Rocke Fooles vpon the Sand for I said this part of the City on the West side was built vpon a stony hill In the Iesuites Church the Altar is of siluer gilded ouer and another Altar of Christs Natiuity is curiously painted like the barks of trees Augsburg called of the Vandals for distinction from Augsburg Rauracorum in Sweitzerland is diuided from the Vandals by the Brooke Lycus and being of old a City of Rhetia now is reckoned the metropolitane City of Suenia vulgarly Schwaben is said said to haue beene built by the sonne of Iaphet sixe hundred yeeres before Rome was builded Of old they had a yeerely feast to Ceres and now vpon the same day they haue a Faire and for the fruitfulnesse of the soyle the City giues a sheaue of corne for their Armes This City was vtterly destroyed by Attila King of the Hunnes and when he was dead was rebuilt againe It is a free Citie of the Empire which are vulgarly called Retchs-statt and as other free Cities it is gouerned by Senators There bee many Almes houses for the poore and one wherein foure hundreth are nourished by rents of land and houses giuen to that house of old by good men The Citie is seated vpon the Northern mouth of the Alpes in a fruitfull plaine of corne and pastures and Hils full of game for hunting and it may bee gathered how populous it is by that a German Author writes that in a yeere when no plague raigned 1705 were baptized and 1227 buried Being constant in my purpose taken at Nurnberg to goe from Auspurge to the West parts of Germany and so into the Low-countries yet I wil remember the Reader that he shall finde the iourney from Augspurg to Venice described in my voyage from Stode to Venice and thence to Hierusalem From Augspurg I rode to Vlme and thence to Lindawe and all the way hired my horse for sixe or seuen Batzen a day paying for the daies in which my horse returned and hyring footmen to bring them backe and bearing their charges The first day I rode foure miles thorow the territory of the Fugars and the Bishop of Tilleng and one mile in the territory of the Arch-Duke of Austria of the house of Inspruch in a mountainous Countrey full of Woods of Iuniper Ashes Oakes and Beaches to Burg where each man paid for his dinner and horsemeat eight Batzen In the afternoone I rode foure miles to Vlme through a fruitfull plaine of corne Entring the City we passed by a Bridge the Riuer Danow which though running in a plaine yet hath a most violent course so as boats carried downe the streame vse to be sold at the place wherethey land it being very difficult to bring them backe again yet some Barkes of burthen are sometimes drawne backe by the force of horses My selfe haue seene tenne horses drawing one Barke but they vse a greater number according to occasion some thirty or more as they report and he that rides on the horse neerest the Barke is called Wage-halse that is Necke venturer because hce and the horse are often drawn vnder the water till the other horses draw them out again This Riuer hath foure great water fals vvhereof the greatest is at Struddle eighteene miles from Vienna vvhich is hardly to be passed except it be in a floud And the multitude of Bridges are very dangerous for boats by reason of the violent streame and especially because the Marriners are many times drunken or negligent They vse for a charme to sprinkle their drawing horses with water and vse with continuall loud cries to make them draw This Nauigation is very necessary that the lower Oestreich being fertill may supply the vpper being barren with wine and corne Munster writeth of two fals of this Riuer one below Lintz where the waters make a terrible noyse beating vpon the rocky bed the other at Gryn vvhere the water makes a dangerous whirle-poole of vnsearchable depth Vlme is seated in Schwaben or Sueuia as Augspurge is and hath his name of Elme trees Charles the Great built a Monastery in this Village which in time grew to a City and vnder the Emperour Fredrick the third bought their freedome of the Monkes The building thereof is of wood and clay The order of Knights called in Latine Teutonicus was in old time of great power and hath yet a house in this Citie It hath one stately Church in the Yard whereof the Mount Oliuet is curiously ingrauen It hath a faire Senate house and the Armory hath such store of Ordinance and all Munitions as it yeeldeth not therein to the proudest City in Germany The writing Tables made in this City are famous for their goodnesse and are thence carried into forraine parts The diet of the Innes of this City seated in a most fertill soyle is very plentifull both in meats and banquets where each man paied for his dinner seuen Batzen In this Country they drinke nothing but wine as they doe in all vpper Germany but it is sharpe and the Masse or measure is sold for three Batzen When wee were at dinner a Tumbler came in and being admitted to shew his cunning hee stood vpon his head and dranke a measure of wine which seemed strange to the beholders After dinner we rode a mile in a pleasant valley vpon the Danow which wee passed and rode two miles further in the like fertill plaine which is very large and by all men much commended for the fruitfull pastures thereof And so wee
came to Baltring subiect to a little free Citie called Bubery and here each man paied fiue Batzen for dinner and three for horse-meat Next morning after a miles riding we came to the City Bubery and rode two miles further to Waldshut through woody Mountaines and corne vallies which were so boggey as many times wee had almost stuck fast The Countrey belongs to the Arch-Duke of the family of Inspruck and heere wee paied each man nine Batzen for dinner and horsemeat After dinner wee rode two miles through a woody Country to Rauenspurg a free Citie seated betweene Mountaines whereof one hangeth ouer it and the Riuer Ach runneth by it in a narrow bed so as the waters falling from the Mountaines very swiftly doe many times ouerflow to the great damage of the Countrey and from the Mountaines many woodden pipes conuey water to the City In these parts bee many Almes houses for those that are infected with Leprosie who may not come neere the Passengers but doe beg of them a farre off with the sound of a woodden clapper Heere each man paid for his supper and horse-meat twelue Batzen and a halfe The first day of May we rode three miles one through a Wood the rest through a plaine of corne and inclosed pastures and Hils planted with Vines to the City Lindaw By the way vve saw the house of Count Montfort and passed the Riuer Arba by a Bridge which doth often ouerflow the plaine doing great hurt and there wee paid halfe a Creitzer tribute to the said Count for each man We were now come out of Sueuia and had rode two miles in Algoia and on the left hand towards the South we discouered the mouth of the Alpes which in this place is called Spliego Lindaw is a free City of the Empire which freedome it bought in the yeere 1166 and it is almost an I and seated in the lake called Acronius vulgarly Bodensea being ioyned to the continent by a Bridge of stone on the North-east side where it hath onely one gate called Burg-thore by which wee entred On this side the fields are very pleasant and planted with Vines and neere the Bridge there is a Rampier so old as they say it was erected by the Heathen before any Christians were Hence the City lies in length towards the South West partly on the West and altogether on the South side lies the lake Bodensea that is vpper sea close by the houses of the Citizens where they descend by staires to take water Beyond the lake are most high Mountaines which were then couered with snow and at the foot of the highest Mountaines there is a Tower which they report to be built by Hannibal neere which is the place famous by the defeat of Hasdrubal On this side the City they shew a stone whence they say the Saint called Aurelia passed the lake woe to them that beleeue at one step The Riuer Bregets falleth most violently from the said Mountaines whence also the Rheine discendeth in a narrow bed and may bee passed with horse and foot when it ouerfloweth not Both these runne into the Lake and the Rheine till it come out of the Lake againe loseth the name There is but one Church in the City besides a ruined Monastery The Citizens draw their water to seethe their meat and mingle it with wine not out of the Lake but from Wels. Three Consuls chosen for life and twenty Senators gouerne the City Beyond the Lake in the Territorie of the Arch Dukes of Austria is a bath of great vertue and a Monastery built by Otho the second with great priuiledges vpon a vow hee made being in great danger when he passed the Lake and there murtherers haue a sanctuary There is much salt made in the City and carried thence to other parts Heere I paied each meale six Batzen They drinke altogether wine whereof the measure of the old is giuen for eleuen Creitzers the new for nine of which measures twentie make some twenty two English beere quarts By ill fortune I was here forced to exhibite a Petition to the Consuls both in the Dutch and Latine tongues the euent whereof I will set downe after the Petition The forme whereof in English was this after the Dutch fashion euer tedious in their stiles or titles HOnourable prouident good wise Lords and Consuls I humbly desire you to respect my cause as of a stranger far from his friends and bereaued of his money by deceit Thus my case standeth Being at Nurnberg and purposing thence to goe to Bazell there to study I dealt with a Merchant that hee would exchange my money thither retaining onely so much as would plentifully serue mee for my expences thither There I met with M. B. a Citizen of Lindaw who told me that the gold Guldens of Rheine were not to be spent in these parts without losse So as I finding him acknowledged by the Carriers of this City then being there and by many Nurnbergers for the sonne of a Senator in this Towne was induced to deliuer him some gold Guldens to be paid mee heere in French Crownes and wee comming in company together to this Towne when I saw many principall Citizens gratalate his returne I was induced to deliuer him the rest of my gold Guldens which I had kept for the expence of my iourney vpon his promise to exchange them into French Crownes So as in all hee is to pay mee thirtie two French Crownes wanting six Creitzers for twenty seuen of which French Crownes and thirty six Creitzers I tooke his bill at Nurnberg but the rest I deliuered him here vpon his bare word Heere I expected his payment eight dayes and when I was instant with him to put off the payment no longer he is stoln out of the Towne and his brothers giue me no hope of payment being not so noble as to ponder the case rightly or to haue any due fecling of my state Being in this case not able without money to goe on my iourney or indure the delayes of a sute in Law against him heere all my hope is in your iust helpe which failing me I know not what course to take Therefore I desire earnestly of your worthinesse to assist mee and giue expedition to my cause that I may be deliuered by your goodnesse My debtor while he liued in the publike Inne with mee vsed mee with all curtesie but finding himselfe disinherited by his father lately dead and so dispairing of means to pay me he was now fled to the Monastery beyond the Lake being a sanctuary for wicked-persons and bankrupts He that knowes the honesty of the Dutch will not much maruell that I was thus deceiued by a Dutch-man whom I knew not to be tainted with forraine vices but it grieued me to be thus-scorned by fortune it afflicted me beyond measure that I should bee forced to spend the time dearer to mee then gold in following the Law at Lindaw which I hoped to imploy in
my studies at Bazell Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe I hyred a horse and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer desiring him to exclude my debtor from the priuiledge of the Monastery But this Dutch Gentleman finding mee to speake Latine readily tooke mee for some Schoole-master and despised both mee and my cause so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad hauing obtained no fauor But a better starre shined there on mee for the Consuls that day had determined in Court that my debtors horses should bee sought out and deliuered to mee and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee though I pressed them to receiue it Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away paid me my mony and I gladly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion hauing found by many testimonies I cannot sufficiently commend and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge Vpon the Lake Acrontiis vulgarly Boden-sea that is vpper sea I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz and paied for my passage three Batzen Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea vulgarly Vnden-sea this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke lengthwise and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch Arch-Duke of Austria whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City which is famous by a Councell held there whither Iohn Hus was called with the Emperours safe conduct in the yeere 1414 yet was there condemned of Heresie and burned On the West side of the Citie within the walles in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster is the Tower wherein he was imprisoned and without the walles on the left hand as you goeout is a faire meadow and therein a stone vpon the high-way to which he was bound being burnt the same yeere 1414 in the Month of Iuly Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September the yeere following both their ashes being cast into the Lake lest the Bohemians should carry them away The Senate-house in which this Councell was held is of no beauty When the Emperour Charles the fifth besieged this Citie it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia and brother to Charles who made the Citizens peace for them Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale and for wine betweene meales eight creitzers the measure Hence I went by boat two miles to Styga and paied for my passage two Batzen We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake and taking his name therein lost doth runne in all narrow bed and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe wee entred the lower Lake called Vnden-sea Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow of the riches the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands as the Monkes being sent to Rome vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson so as any such beast dieth presently in it and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke for which as they say the Venetians haue offered much money VVriters report that of old a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder to looke into a huge vessell of wine and being ouercome with the vapour fell into the same with a great bunch of keyes in his hand and that shortly after this wine was so famous as Princes and Nobles and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh till the vessell being empty the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order yet the Dutch in my company reported that this happened in a Monastery not farre off called Salmanschwell By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augsburg On the East-side out of the walles of Styga lye woody fields on the West-side the Iland Horue and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne In this City the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace who is Lord of the two Ilands Meinow and Reichnow and hath very large possessions in these parts mingled with the territories of other Lords And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen and paied for my passage two Batzen The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake and when it comes or rather violently breakes out of it then resumes it againe This City is one of the confederate Cantons of Sweitzerland Not farre from this City on the South side in the riuer Rheine is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vnlade here and to carry their goods by carts to the City and from the City to imbarke them againe which yeeldeth great profit to the City by taxations imposed on the goods which must necessarily be landed there On both sides the riuer as we came to this City are pleasant hils planted with vines faire pastures with sweet groues The City is round in forme and is washed with the Rheine on the South side and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne is a pleasant greene where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree giuing so large a shade as vpon the top it hath a kinde of chamber boarded on the floore with windowes on the sides and a cocke which being turned water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes by which it is conueyed thither for washing of glasses and other vses and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together there being sixe tables for that purpose On the same South side is a Monastery with walles and gates like a little City It hath the name of 〈◊〉 that is a sheepe or Schiff that is a ship and Hausse that is a house as of a fold for 〈◊〉 or roade for shippes Here I paid for each meale six batzen For the better vnderstanding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel To the Right Worshipfull Master Doctor Iohn Vlmer IN those few houres I staid at Schafhusen you haue made me your Seruant for euer I remember the houres of our conuersation which for the sweetnes thereof seemed minutes to me I remember the good offices you did towards me a stranger with gentlenes if not proper to your selfe yet proper
in the morning to twelue We come out at first tenne companions in this iourney but at the very comming out 〈◊〉 six of them left vs despairing to passe against a contrary winde in a foule rainy day and their feet sticking fast in the dirt and they mocked at our obstinacy in going Within a while my selfe was wet to the skinne and my shooes at euery step were almost to the off so as I was forced to binde them on with foure points neither did any of vs looke backe at his fellow to helpe him if hee could not follow and if I should haue fallen into the Sea I am confident none of them would haue come back to succour me After we had gone halfe a mile one of our foure companions being a young man with a blacke beard able body would not goe one foot further though he had but one Stiuer in his purse and was forced to borrow money of vs that he might stay in a poore Ale-house When we came to Aldernsea the Free-booters spies came to the Inne gaped vpon vs so as though I were wet to the skin yet I durst not pull off any thing to dry sest my inward garments better then my vpper should betray my disguise neither durst I call for wine and spend freely lest they should thinke I had store of money Each of vs paied seuen Stiuers for his dinner Here another of our companions left vs being so tired as hee went to bed without eating one bit So as now I had onely one companion left called Anthony a man of little stature and a Citizen of Emden We so be free of this dangerous iourney went forward and as we came out of the Village the Free-booters spies came close to vs and beheld vs narrowly but seeing vs all couered with dirt they tooke vs for poore men and a prey vnfit to be followed Wee gathering vp strength went on till at last wee were so weary as hauing no strength to chuse our way wee cast away our staues and went almost vp to the knees in dirt in the lower way At last hauing gone one mile as me thought wondrous long from one of the clocke in the afternoone to fiue wee came to Emden where my selfe entring the gate could not stand till the Souldiers writ our names but had lyen downe on the ground if they had not giuen mee a seat Now being out of all danger of the Free-booters in giuing my name I wrote my selfe an English-man the standers by not a little wondring that I had put my self to this dangerous passage And truly this iourney if it were free from all danger yet the ill diet and lodging would yeeld trouble enough for which I appeale to Lipsius who hath pleasantly written of the entertainement in West-Phalen and Oldenburg The Citie of Emden lies in the vtmost border of the Empire and is onely diuided by the Riuer Emsz from the vnited Prouince of Netherland and by an Inland Sea from West Freez-land being one of them The Countrey about Emden aboundeth with villages and from a Tower at Goricome a man may see at once vpon a saire day twenty two walled Townes Not farre from this City neere 〈◊〉 is the place where the Duke of Alūa defeated the forces of Lodwick of Nassaw his Dutch-men refusing to fight except they were first paied All the fields about Emden are drowned in winter and the City lying vpon the Sea for want of fresh waters they dresse most of their meat with raine water The aire is very vnhealthfull but the City is fairely built of bricke and the Citizens are very curteous On the South side the Riuer Emsz washeth the City with his salt streames on which side is the Hauen and the Citizens are said to haue some three score ships of a hundred tunnes a peece and some six hundred barkes of their owne In the Church-yard on this side many peeces of Ordinance are laid towards Leere and Dunort the Counts Fort and the like are laid vpon the Hauen and some places of aduantage for the City hath no walles on this side On the West side beyond the water lyeth Marish ground to the mouth of the Sea and vpon this side is a strong old Castle On the North side the City is compassed with a wall of earth and deepe ditches full of water and there be two strong gates Belgar-port and New-port without which the fields are Fenny On this side there is a passage by boat to the suburbes on the East side where the fields without the towne are faire pastures in summer but all ouerflowed in winter and vpon the Rampier of the wall are many Winde-mils The City is of a round forme if it were not somewhat longer from the East to the West At Emden they pay ordinarily six Stiuers a meale three stiuers for a quart of English beere eleuen Stiuers for a quart of Spanish wine thirteene Stiuers a quart of Rhenish wine and seuen Stiuers for French wine my selfe paid for supper and breakfast twenty three Stiuers CHAP. IIII. Of my iourney from Emden in Germany to Leyden in Holland and through the vnited Prouinces of the Low-Countries ON Thursday the twenty seuen of October in the yeere 1592 I tooke ship after dinner at Emden being to saile into West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces and paied for my passage tenne Stiuers The same night wee cast anchor neere Vrspenhurn a Fort seated beyond the Emsz and belonging to the States of the vnited Prouinces and beyond this Port towards Plaunders on the same side of the Emsz lieth the Territory of the City Groning seated in an Iland rich in pastures and at this time gouerned by a Spanish Garrison which the Citizens had willingly receiued though the States after besieged this City and droue out the Spaniards and vnited the City to the rest As we lay at Anchor two little Ilands lay on the North side one subiect to Emden the other to Groning and beyond them lay the German Sea On Friday wee set saile with a scant winde and towards night were left vpon a Flat vulgarly called Gat where the water forsaking vs we walked out of the ship vpon the sand compassed round about with the Sea till the same flowing backe againe our ship floated On Saterday we set saile againe and towards night rested vpon a like Flat expecting the floud Three of these Flats are in this Inland sea and there be two like Flats in the Inland sea beteene Freesland and Holland At last wee landed on Sunday in Freesland at the Village Aniou lying neere the Sea shore whether wee hired a sledge for eight stiuers and were drawne thither ouer the yce and snow After we had dined for twelue stiuers each man whereof more then halfe was reckoned for drinke we went in a skeut by water in foure houres space one mile to Dockam and each man paid for his passage foure stiuers and a halfe we could not passe
by waggon the high way being then drowned Nothing were more pleasant nothing more quicke then Sea-voyages if a man might promise himselfe a good wind and a reasonable gale but through contrariety of winds and tempests they commonly proue tedious This small voyage which afflicted vs foure daies might haue beene passed in sixe houres if the winds had fauoured vs. And this hope of a short passage caused vs to make no prouision of victuals so as the Barke being gouerned by one Mariner and a boy who had nothing but cheese and musty bread to liue vpon and so could not much releeue vs each houre of these foure daies seemed a yeere vnto vs. Dockam a City of West Freesland little in circuit is in two places diuided with water which at this time ouer flowed into the very houses The wall is strong with rampiers of earth and the houses here as in all these parts of Netherland are built of bricke Here I paid for my supper twenty stiuers eating at an Ordinary but the company sitting at the fire and drinking after supper all vseth to be diuided equally whether a man drinke or not The first of Nouember we went by water in sixe houres space two miles to Lewerden hauing on each side the water fertile pastures and passing by two Forts and each man paid for his passage three stiuers The City is faire and well fortified and William Count of Nassau cousin to Count Maurice and Gouernour of Friesland had his residence in the same The streetes are large and diuided with water and the houses are fairely builded of bricke The City hath no Suburbs and is of a round forme but the waters diuiding the streetes slowly or not at all moued are in this City as almost in all other of these Prouinces subiect to stinking In the midst of the City there is a dam tolet in water at pleasure which in this place and two miles further is salt in tast Passengers entering the City leaue their swords with the guard of souldiers and receiue them backe when they goe out of the Towne The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contribution to the Spanish garison of Groning left they should breake in and spoile them Here they say the first sermon of reformed religion was made in the Monastery of the Iacobinet and here I paid for my supper foureteene stiuers From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke in the morning to fiue in the afternoone two-miles to Froniker an Vniuersity of Friesland lately renewed and one mile to the City Harlingen and we paid six stiuers for our passage Entering this City we left our swords with the guard of souldiers who restored them to vs when wee went away It is a little City and lieth in length from the East to the West but is somewhat more narrow towards the North where the houses are thinly built On the west and North sides lies an arme of the Sea comming out of the German Sea and here inclosed with the continent and Ilands On the South and East sides without the gates are faire pastures in a large plaine I lodged in an Englishmans house the chiefe Host of the City who either dispising England and Englishmen or too much respecting his masters of Friesland gaue me such entertainment as I tooke him for one of the old Picts for hauing placed his Gentlemen of Friesland at one table he called me to the second and seeing that I tooke it in ill part lest I should no lesse dislike my lodging he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit me partner of his bed but I hearing the gentleman condition with him about the cleannesse of my body and linnen for very scorne would not trouble his worship but chose rather to lie vpon a bench And it was most ridiculous that this Host excused himselfe to me as hauing for countries sake made bold with me whom he had neuer seene before I paid for my supper and breakefast with wine thirty stiuers and one of my consorts drinking no wine paid sixeteene whereof nine was for beere From Harlingen I went by the said Inland Sea vulgarly called Zwidersea foureteene miles to Amsterdam and paid eight stiuers for my passage Some of our passengers going onely to Enchusen paid fiue stiuers for by couenant betweene the Cities the ships must land their passengers at Enchusen and there receiue such new passengers as they find and one ship at least is bound daily to make this passage From the said Harlingen a City of Friesland wee passed in foure houres saile to Enchusen a City of Holland which is fortified with a wall of earth and strong rampiers and lieth in length from the North to the South The Hauen lies on the East side and the new City was then building towards the West side This City lying betweene the mouth of the German sea and Amsterdam another City of Holland and in the beginning of the warre taking part with the Prince of Orange forced Amsterdam by stopping all supply of victuals to yeeld to the said Prince Hauing made short stay here we tooke ship againe and sayling from siue a clocke in the euening to twelue in the night in the same Inland sea we entered the Riuer Tay where we cast anchor till foure in the morning and then setting sayle passed one mile in that Riuer before sixe of the clocke and landed at Amsterdam Fiue streetes of this City are diuided with water the Riuer Tay flowes like a large and calme sea on the North side where is a safe port the trafficke being great in this City and at Midleburg since the passage to Antwerpe was stopped Vpon the Hauen lics a field or market place called Campplata where the Citizens vse to behold their friends going to sea and returning home From this place towards the South lies Warmerstrat a long and large street betweene two Riuers which part of the City is called the new Ditch The Merchants in summer meet vpon the Bridge and in winter they meet in the New Church in very great number where they walke in two rankes by couples one ranke going vp and another going downe and there is no way to get out of the Church except they slip out of the doores when in one of those rankes they passe by them On the East side of the City there is a wall of stone higher then the City hauing a pleasant walke vpon it In the same place are houses for exercise of shooting in gunneo and crosse-bowes beyond this wall there is another of earth and betweene these wals the new City was plotted out where of few houses were then built but since I heare it is fully finished Likewise on the South and West sides there be two like wals and between them the plot of the said new City in which many faire houses were then built The fields on all sides without the gates being fenny and drowned with water doe make the City more strong but
for this cause they say the foundations of the houses being laid in water cost as much or more as the houses themselues The Riuer Amster of which and the word dam the City is named running from the South through three lakes entereth this city and passing through it fals into the Riuer Tay on the North side The City hath fiue gates which are shut at dinners and suppers though the danger of the warre be farre from them There be two Churches in which they haue two sermons each second day and foure on sunday The City lay in length from the North to the South but adding the plot of the new City it is of a round forme The streetes are narrow and the building of bricke with a low roofe shewed antiquity They haue two Almeshouses called Gasthausen that is Houses for strangers which were of old Monasteries One of these houses built round was a Cloyster for Nunnes wherein sixty beds at this time were made for poore weomen diseased and in another chamber thereof were fifty two beds made for the auxiliary Soulders of England being hurt or sicke and in the third roome were eighty one beds made for the hurt and sicke Souldiers of other Nations to which souldiers and sicke weomen they giue cleane sheetes a good diet and necessary clothes with great cleanlinesse and allow them Physitians Surgions to cure them and most of the Cities in these Prouinces haue like houses Here I lodged with an English-man and paid for dinner and supper twenty stiuers and for a guest inuited to supper ten stiuers and for three pints or chopines of Spanish wine twenty one stiuers From Amsterdam I went in a boat three miles to Harlam and paid for my passage foure stiuers we had not passed farre from Amsterdam when we came to a damme shutting out the flowing of the sea for the waters are salt thus farre though the ebbing and the flowing of the sea can hardly be discerned at Amsterdam for the depth of the Riuer Tay aud because Inland seas shew little ebbing or flowing Our boat was lifted ouer this damme by ropes and so let fall into the water on the other side for which the Mariners paid tribute There is another damme for greater Barkes and as by these dammes they let in waters to the Land at pleasure so they haue other dams at Torgay to let them out againe into the Sea when the Land hath too much water From hence we had the Sea-shore all the way on the North side not farre distant and on both sides of the water in which we passed were faire pastures parted with ditches of water The Riuer running from Amsterdam from the East to the North doth turne neere Harlam towards the South and diuideth the City which on all sides is compasied with Nauigable waters On the North side neere the gate Ians-port Don Frederick sonne to the Duke of Alun pitched his tent in a meadow when he besieged the City with the Spanish forces and much spoiled those parts beating downe Gentlemens faire houses dwelling frequently in that part with his Artillery playing into this street hauing the name of the Knights of Saint Iohn On the same side are two other gates Sayle-port and Cruyse-port and without them toward the sea being halfe a mile distant are very faire pastures but there is no riuer nor ditch that leads from the City to the sea For these Prouinces haue onely three passages to goe to sea one betweene Rotherodam and Bril a Fort of Zealand the second at Vlishing another Port of Zealand and the third from Amsterdam betweene two Ilands called rhe Fly and Shelling Wee comming from Amsterdam to Harlam entred the Citie by the gate Kleine holt Port on the East side where the very Almes-houses were beaten downe in the aforesaid siege of the Spaniards and the walles then beaten downe were not yet rebuilt On the South side is the fifth gate Grote-holt Port the street whereof is the fairest next that of the Knights of Saint Iohn On this side was a wall of stone but at this time they were building another very strong wall beyond it of earth In the New-street is the house for exercise of shooting and another old house for the same vse and one market-place sweetly shaded with trees and a second market-place of good length for the selling of Cattle Likewise on this side another part of the Spanish Army lay and destroyed a most pleasant Wood of which the gate and street haue the name And they report that the Spaniards taking the City vsed great cruelty to all but especially to the Garrison of the English Souldiers The Histories witnesse that three hundred were beheaded and more then two hundred drowned in the Lake called Harlam-mere On the West side the Citie is compassed with a wall of earth and there bee faire pastures betweeue the City and the Sea Among the Churches that which is called the Great is the fairest and our Ladies Church vulgarly called Vnser-fraw kirke is the next in beautie All the sea coast of Holland is a sandy downe in which are great store of conies This Citie makes great store of linnen clothes and hath some fiue hundred spinsters in it The water heere as most of these Cities standing and little or nothing mouing is subiect to stinking so as they are forced to fetch water for brewing by boats Here I paied for supper and my part of wine twenty stiuers and for my dinner without wine thirteene stiuers About a mile from the City is a very sweet Hil called Weligheberg whether the brides vse to walke and there take their leaues of the Virgins And in the mid way towards Almer is another Hil where the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to bee consecrated In the market-place ouer against the Pallace they shew the house of one Laurence Iohn vvhom they brag to bee the first inuentor of the Presse for Printing and they shew two bels of the brasse of Corinth which they say were brought from Pelusium a City in Affrick vpon the Nyle From Harlam wee hired a waggon for eight stiuers and came fiue miles in fiue houres space to Leyden our waggoner baiting his horses in the mid way but staying very little In the way we had on all sides faire pastures and passed by the Lake or Mere of Harlam lying towards the South and the sea bankes vvithin sight towards the North. The high wayes in these Prouinces seeme to be forced and made by Art being sandy and very dry though all the pastures on both sides bee compassed with frequent ditches of water At the gates of Leyden the men goe out of the vvaggon and onely vvomen may be carried into the City lest as I thinke the vvheeles of the loaded vvaggons should breake the bricke pauements of the streets Hence I returned presently to Amsterdam that I might receiue money sent me by exchange So I hired a vvaggon for eight stiuers my part from hence to Harlam and
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
and ouer mountaines couered with snow three miles and a halfe to a village not farre from which Charles of Gratz Arch-duke of Austria vncle by the Father side to the Emperour Rodulphus and Father to the Queene of Poland lately maried to King Sigismond was of late buried in a Monastery neere Knettelfeld In this village I paid foureteene creitzers for my supper and twelue for my horse-meat The sixth day in the morning we rode one mile in like way to Iudenburg that is the City of the Iewes and I paid foureteene creitzers for breakefast Then we rode fiue miles in a stony way through high mountaines to Newen-markt and I paid eighteene creitzers for my supper and fifteene for my horse-meat In this Countrey of Styria many men and weomen haue great wens hanging downe their throats by drinking the waters that run through the mines of mettals The seuenth day in the morning we rode two miles to the confines of Styria and entring Carinthia passed by the City Freysacke in which was a faire and strong Castle seated vpon a high mountaine and so wee passed one mile further to a village all our way hauing beene very troublesome by reason of the stony mountaines and narrow passages we hauing a coach in our company Heere I paied twenty foure creitzers for my dinner and fourteene for my horse-meat After dinner wee rode two miles in a plaine compassed with mountaines to Sternfield where I paied ninteene creitzers for my supper and sixteene for my horse-meat The eight day in the morning we rode one mile through a fruitfull plaine of corne to a pleasant City Saint Voyte As in Styria so here in Carinthia the men and women haue great wens vpon their throats with drinking the waters that passe the Mines Heere I paied for my dinner and supper forty eight creitzers and twenty foure for my horse-meat for we staid here to rest our horses and every day we tooke shorter iournies because wee had a Coach in our company which could hardly passe the streights and stony waies of the Alpes and in no other part of the Alpes they vse at any time to passe with Coaches but here very seldome in respect of the ill way The ninth day we rode three miles through a fruitful plaine of corne to Feldkirken where I paid nine creitzers for my dinner and foure for my horse-meat After dinner we rode about two miles by the side of a lake on our left hand towards the South beyond which lake Boleslaus King of Poland lies buried in a Monasbery who hauing killed a Bishop warning him to amend his life did vpon his owne free will doe penance there taking the habit of a Monke and seruing in the same Cloyster as a lay brother to warme stoues but the Polackes say that the body of the dead Bishop did many miracles whereupon with great expence of treasure they of late obtained at Rome to haue him made a Saint And so we came to a village where I paid twenty creitzers for my supper thirteene for my horse-meat and eight for drinke after supper The tenth day in the morning we rode about a mile through high and rocky mountaines to the City Villake by which the Riuer Draw runneth and here I omitted my expences After dinner we rode three miles through high and rocky mountaines and a narrow way and our Coachman by the way shewed vs vppon the left hand towards the South a Castle which of old belonging to the Gouernours of the Prouince was now demolished and because money receiued of the Turkes for treason was hidden here they say that euer since ill spirits walke in that place In the villages of Carinthia being a Prouince of the Dutch Empire the Countrey people speake Wendish or the tongue of the old Vandals which I haue like wise heard to be vsed in villages neere Angsburg and neere Witteberg in Saxony and vpon the shoare of the Balticke sea in Pomern and Meckleburge so as it seemes that barbarous nation though scattered and loosing their name yet still liueth in those places So we came to Altaporta that is High gate where I omitted my expences The eleuenth day in the morning wee rode a mile through high mountaines and rocky and a narrow way to the village Trenise where the Dutchmen shewed a pasport and we all had a like pasport giuen vs from the Emperour his Officers which we were to deliuer to the Venetian Officers at Pontena left either for suspition of infectuous sicknes or any other cause they should not permit vs to enter into Italy In the said village I paid fifteene creitzers for my dinner and fiue for my horse-meat After dinner we rode two miles in a stony way betweene mountaines to Pontena which the Dutch call Pontafell and by the way there was a wall of stone betweene the mountaines and a village called Chiusa where there was a gate shutting vp the high way vpon which was written in Italian La chiusa L'Alpi chiudono i confini della famosa Italia manon ponno mai chiudere l'honer del sagio Contarini The inclosure or shutting vp The Alpes close vp the confines of famous Italy but can neuer inclose the honour of the wise Contarini The Contarini are a family of Gentlemen in Venice Here the Venetian souldiers keeping this passage required a beneuolence of vs which we willingly gaue and out companions paid foure Venetian lires for the foure horses in their Coach but wee that were horsemen paid no tribute Here we had another passe-port to be shewed at Venzona I paid at Pontena thirty sols of Venice for my supper thirty fiue for oates and ten for hey And giue me leaue to remember that I hauing for the cold at Dantzke in the beginning of September put on a woollen wasecoat was forced now at the entring of Italy for great heat in the end of October to put off the same The twelfth day in the morning wee rode foure miles meaning Dutch miles though wee be now entered into Italy because my Dutch companions so reckoned them We now had entred the Italian Prouince Frioly which the Latines call Forum Iulij because the Legions vsed to be sent from hence ouer the Alpes the Venetians call Patria that is country because the Venetians fled from hence into the Lakes of Venice when Attila King of the Huns inuaded Italy by this name acknowledging it to be their country from whence they originally came Aquilegia the seat of the Patriarkes destroyed by Attila was of old famous but the Venetians by the Popes fauour haue drawne the Patriarkes seat to Venice By the way wee passed seuen branches of the Riuer Tagliamonti on horse-backe without boats the streame being so violent by the waters falling from the mountaines that it dazels the eyes if the passenger looke vpon the water for which cause wee passed warily turning our eyes from the water and hauing guidespassing before vs to try and shew vs the Fordes By the way vpon
length thereof euen from Genoa to the furthest limits of the Kingdome of Naples bordering vpon he sea towards the East On the same South-side are the schooles of the Vniuersity and the monastery of Saint Michaell and the rich stately monastery of Saint Dominicke in which is the sepulcher of the said Saint curiously engrauen and of white marble and vnder a rich skreene lies the body which they superstitiously worship and they shew the place where the Saint gaue vp his last breath Their refectory or place where the Monkes eat is faire and large and the Cellars of wine and their store thereof are so great as would better become the Temple of Bacchus then a Cloyster of Monkes It hath two foure-square Court yards with arched Cloysters to walke vnder and they be pleasantly planted round about with Cedars of which they especially esteeme one planted by the hands of that Saint who likewise with his owne hand did beautifie a well of water no lesse esteemed by them Their publike Library is much esteemed for many bookes of written hand wherein they brag to haue a Bible written by the hand of Esdras The building of this monastery is very stately and it hath large galleries as well below vnder the Arches as round about in the vpperroofe Here is a monument of Hans that is Iohn sonne to the Emperour Fredericke the second they haue a place giuen by priuiledge to the Dutch for buriall The building of the City is anticke and many houses seeme to haue beene built by the Lombards The foundations of the houses are of free stone and the rest for the most part of bricke built with arched Cloysters towards the street vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine The Pallaces of Gentlemen are built towards the street stately on the inside but with little shew on the outside and they all seeme to haue beene built of old The windowes are not glased which the Venetians brag to be proper to their City as a thing to be wondered at but they are couered with paper whereof part is oyled ouer Towards the West side of the City is a large market place two forked in which is a faire conduit of water with the Images of Neptune and diuers Goddesses powring water out of their mouthes and breasts and all made of mettall In this market place is the Senate-house vulgarly called Il palazo della signoria on the one side whereof are the Courts of iudgement on the other the lodgings of the Gouernour At the very entry is a statua of brasse erected to Pope Gregory the thirteenth a Citizen of Bologna which appeares by an inscription in the Cathedrall Church and within the Pallace is a statua of white stone erected to Pope Paul the third and another statua of a Gyant The staires of the Pallace are made winding and rising by little and little giue so easie an ascent as a horse may goe vp without difficulty the like staites be at Ferrara in the Dukes Pallace and at Venice in the steeple of Saint Marke and at Torge a City of Germany Within the Pallace is the statua of Iulius the second Bishop or rather the God Mars of Rome engrauen to his shoulders with aleane and longface Vpon the doore of the Pallace is written in golden letters that the Emperour Charles the fifth held his Court there when the Pope put the imperiall Crowne vpon his head in the Church of Saint Petronius which Church is of the old Lombard building and this Saint is the protecting Saint of the City Neere the stately Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter is a house called the mountame of piety where poore men may borrow money freely bringing pawnes to auoid the oppression of the lewes vsury Among the Lombard buildings there is an old Tower called d' Asinelli built of bricke with foure hundred seuenty two staires which they esteeme one of the highest in Europe From this Tower without the gates all the fields are full of Pallaces and Houses At the gate of Saint Francis is a pinacle with this inscription The Sepuicher of Accursius who wrote the glosse vpon the Law Sonne to Francis H us In the territory of this City is a medicinall water found in the yeere 1375. very famous throughout all Italy of which is prouerbially said Chibene l' Acqua della Porretta O che lo spezza o che lo netta that is He that drinkes the water of Porretta either it bursts him or els it cleanseth him The strangers students here call the stately Pallace of Cardinall Caup the sinnes of the Dutch as built by the Fines imposed on them We staid in this City two daies and being three consorts hired a chamber each man for foure bolinei the day the Hostesse giuing vs linnen and dressing our meat and we paid for an Eele by the pound fiue bolinei for they sell fresh water fish by the pound for a pike the pound foure bolinei for three apples two quatrines for a pound of raisons foure bolinei for a pound of small nuts foure bolinei for an ingestar of wine a measure somewhat bigger then the English pint foure bolinei for a wax candle six bolinei It was now the time of Lent and so we were forced to eat onely fish as the Italians did In the territory of Bologna there is a place almost an Iland called Forcelli which was an Iland of old and Historians witnesse that the Triumuiri Augustus Antonius and Lepidus here diuided the world betweene them From Bologna the right way for Rome is directly to Florence which way I neuer passed disposing as I thought my iourney more commodiously yet for the direction of other passengers it will not be amisse to set downe the way From Bologna to Pianore are eight miles to Lograno sixe to Scaricalasino fiue to Caurez three to Fiorenzuola twelue to Scarperia ten to the bridge Saint Piero two and to Fiorenza or Florente two miles At Bologna we chanced to light vpon post horses being to returne twenty miles to Imola and each of vs paid fiue poli for his horse By the way towards the South were pleasant hils towards the foot of the Apennine mountaines On the left hand towards the North were fields manured after the Lombard fashion before described and we passed by the Castle Saint Petro the Italians call the walled Townes which haue no Bishops seat by the name of Castles When we entered the gates of Imola according to the custome we deliuered our swords to a boy who was to carry them to our Host that he might keepe them till we went out of the Towne and here each of vs paied two reali for our supper and halfe a reale for our bed The next morning we rode ten miles to the City Faenza through a sandy way and a barren soyle yeelding some few vines growing vpon trees and each man paid for his horse eight poli From hence our right way to Ancona had beene to Forli Cesena and
bridles and if a man ride into a Towne vpon a Post-horse he must either goe away on foote or take another Post-horse there for no priuate man dare let him a horse which makes passengers loth to hier post-horses of returne though many times they may be had at good rate rather then he will returne emptie with them yet if a man will walke a mile or two he may easily hier a horse in other Townes which are frequent in Italy And let no man maruel that these Princes fauour the Post-masters and Inkeepers to the preiudice of strangers because in that respect they extort great rents from them By the way in the Village Bel ' Aria each of vs paid two bolinei for passage of a Riuer The Brooke Rubico now called Pissatello by this way to Rimini did runne from the West into the Adriatique sea and there of old was a Marble pillar with this inscription in Latin Here stay leaue thy Banner lay down thy Armes and leade not thy Army with their Colours beyond this Brooke Rubico therefore if any shall goe against the rule of this commaund let him be iudged enemie to the people of Rome c. And hereupon it was that Iulius Caesar returning out of France and first stopping here and then after he had seene some prodigious signes passing ouer this Brooke with his Army vttered words in Lattin to this effect Let vs goe whither the prodigics of the Gods and the sinnes of our enemies call vs. The Die is cast In the Market-place of Rimini is a monument of the same Caesar yet remaining where words in the Latin tongue are grauen in a stone to this effect The Consuls of Rimini did repaire this pulpit decaied with age in the moneths of Nouember and December in the yeere 1555. Vnder that is written Caius Caesar Dictator hauing passed Rubico here in the Market place of Rimini spake to his fellow souldiers beginning the ciuill warre In the same Market-place of Rimini is a pleasant Conduit of water The Citie hath no beautie and lyeth in length from the East to the West On the West-side is a bridge built by the Emperour Augustas which they hold to be very faire Towards the East is a Triumphall Arke built by the same Augustus with old inscriptions and a pinackle erected which shewes the Flaminian way to Rome and the Emilian way towards Parma I said that the Popes territory extendeth this way as high as Ancona and these inhabiters of Marca are accounted a wicked generation the greatest part of the cut-throtes and murtherers dispersed through Italy being borne in this Country Our Hoste vsed vs very ill demaunding of each of vs a poli for our bed and three polo for our supper and when we desired a reckoning demaunding for a little piece of an Ele one polo and a halfe and for three little Soles tenne bolinei besides that by the aforesaid priuiledge he forced vs being Post-master to take horses of him at what price he listed The next morning we rode fifteene miles to the Castle la Catholica where is a bridge diuiding the territories of the Pope and the Duke of Vrbine then we rode to Pesaro ten miles and each man paied for his horsefoure poli and all our way was through fruitful hills and little mountaines This Citie hath a faire round Market-place and a plesant Fountaine therein distilling water at eight pipes The aire is thought vnwholesome for which cause and the great plentie of fruit nothing is more frequent here then Funerals in the Moneth of August and the Inhabitants seldome liue to be 50 yeeres old each of vs paid a Polo for our dinner calling for what meate we liked and agreeing first for the price From hence to Ancona ate fortie fiue miles and wee hired three Horses for twentie fiue Poli with condition that our guide vulgarly called Veturale or Veturino should pay for his horse-meate and bring them backe againe After dinner we rode fiue miles to the little City Fano compassed with high walles of Flint and lying vpon a hill-side towards the sea and subiect to the Pope where we did see a triumphall arck of marble curiously engrauen Then we rode fifteene miles more to Senogalita a strong Citie and subiect to the Duke of Vrbin By the way we passed the Bridge Di Metro hauing foure-score Arches and the Bridge Di Marctta hauing fiftie Arches both built of wood and very low as seruing to passe ouer little Brookes which notwithstanding by reason of the Mountaines being neere doe often ouer-flow All this dayes iourney was by the Sea-shore on our left hand towards the North and fruitfull hills of corne towards the South ouer which hung the Apenine Mountaines whence many times the waters discend violently by reason of the narrow valley betweene the fea and the said Mountaines It is prouerbially said of the Magistrate of Senogallia il Podesta commanda fallo stesso that is The Gouernour commaunds and doth it himselfe whereby it seemes he is little esteemed The Citie is of a small circuit but very strong and the houses are built of bricke with a roofe something flat after the Italian fashion The Inne is without the gate and so the more comodious for strangers who may come late and departe earely which they could not do if their lodging were within the walls It is true that he who buyes hath need to sell for the Duke extorting great rent from the Inkeeper he in like sort oppresseth the passengers for a short supper at a common table each man payed foure Poli or Poali a coine so called of Pope Paul The next morning we rode fifteene miles to Fimesino and tenne to Ancona hauing the sea on our left hand towards the North and fruitfull mountaines on our right hand towards the South Fimesino is a Fort and belongs to the Pope but the Inne without the gate belongs to the Duke of Vrbine And againe when you haue passed the Bridge all the Territorie to Ancona is subiect to the Pope The Citie of Ancona is compassed with three Mountaines and hath the forme of a halfe Moone On the North side is a Mountaine vpon which the Gouernour dwelles and vpon the East side is another Mountaine and vpon the side of these two Mountaines the Citie is built to the valley and sea-side towards the North. On the South-side is the third Mountaine vpon which is the Castle called Capoaè Monte built in the same place where the Temple of Venus stoode and vpon this side the Citie is narrow there being no houses built vpon the Mountaine but onely in the valey vpon the sea The Pope hath souldiers in this Castle and thereby keepes the Citie in subiection for the Citizens long defended their liberty and how soeuer they were subiect to the Pope yet secretly chose their Magistrates euery yeere to the yeere 1532 at which time Pope Clement the seuenth built this Castle against the Turkish Pirates but
this time no more then seuen in number for the Duke vsed to send out in summer time some two or three Gallies and seldome any more to spoile the Turkes which he might doe more boldly because the Florentines haue no cause to feare the Turkes since they vse no traffick by sea but send out their silkes and other commodities by strange ships and onely take care to entertaine those Merchants well who bring them corne and victuals by sea At the same West corner of the City is a bridge of bricke ouer the Riuer Arno built high in the midst with three Arches vnder which the boates passe And towards the East there be three other like bridges Neere the first bridge is another gate of the City leading towards the sea and neere the same is the most sweete walke that euer I beheld It hath in bredth some fiue rowes of trees on each side and a like distance of greene grasse betweene those trees but it reacheth in length many miles and out of the Riuer Arno are drawne two ditches which runne all the length of it one vpon each side so as the Citizens in summer time vse to take boat in Arno at their doores with a a basket of victuals and so many Families of them passing by the ditches on both sides the walke sit downe a good distance the one from the other and there sup and conuerse with great pleasure On the South side of the City a strong Fort lies neere the wall and there is the third gate of the City In the midst of the City vpon the banke of Arno is the Pallace of the Duke of Florence and there is a statua erected to Ferdinando the Duke then liuing who much fauoured this City in which he was borne Not farre thence is a little but most faire Chappell all of marble built in the forme of a Thorne vulgarly called La Capella lesu di Spina The pleasant seat of the City the curtesie of the Citizens and my desire to conuerse with the Professors of the Vniuersity made me spend some daies in this City where I paid by the day for my chamber and bed three creitzers and my Host was tied to buy and dresse such meat for me as I desired wherein I spent some three Giulij by the day and if I had purposed to stay long I might haue liued well at a more easie rate CHAP. III. Of my iourney to Ligorno my returne to Florence and to Sienna and the description of these Cities Of my iourney by Land to Lirigi in which againe I passed by Lucca and Pisa and by sea to Genea with the description of that City and my iourney by Land to Pania to Milano to Cremona and to Mantous with the discription of the Cities and of my returne to Padena I Hired a horse for three Giulij from Pisa to Ligorna an Hauen of this state which Ftolomy of old called Liburuum of which name there is another Hauen betweene Istria and Dalmatia and Cicero called Labro Not farre from Pisa I passed by boat the brooke Serpe running from Lucca and paid two creitzers for passing my horse and one for my selfe Then for three miles I rode vpon a paued way and thirteene miles more through a plaine of pasture full of many woods and Lakes which lakes and fenny grounds lying neere Pisa make the aire vnwholsome some möneths of the yeere and the Citizens much subiect to sickenes So after sixteene miles riding I came to Ligorno which was of old fortified by the Pisans and those fortifications were demolished by the Genoest in the yeere 1297. but peace being made betweene them this place returned vnder the command of the Pisans and they being after subdued by the Florentines this place came also into their hands and when the French King Charles the eight in the yeere 1494. restored the Pisans to liberty this place followed their fortune till the Pisans againe being subdued by the Florentines in the yeere 1509. this place also returned to their subiection It is said to haue the name of Ligornus sonne to Phaeton Cosmo de Medicis Duke of Florence began to fortifie againe this ancient Towne and to measure out the circuit and the streetes thereof And Duke Francis tooke vpon him to goe forward with this vnperfected worke and he being dead Duke Ferdinand his brother at that time liuing brought it to the forme of a most strong Fort and faire City And at this time the streetes began to be replenished with houses for the Duke made this place as it were a sanctuary to offenders vpon whom he vsed to impose for punishment either to dwell there for euer or at least for some yeeres and to adde one or more houses to the building so as the City was now faire and populous but it was filled with Citizens guilty of crimes and of no ciuill conuersation My selfe hearing that they were such men perhaps out of preiudicate opinion did thinke their lookes barbarous which made me looke more warily to my selfe and to those things I had with me The City is seated in a plaine somewhat longer from the North to the South then it is broad from the East to the West and the sea lies vpon it partly on the North and partly on the South and altogether on the West side And it hath one Tower on the North side and another one the South side reaching into the sea out of which they hang lights by night to direct saylers and betweene these Towers full on the West side there is a Hauen for great ships further out into the sea and also neere the City and compassed with the wals thereof are two Hauens for Gallies and small Barkes The Riuer Arno running from the East to the West passeth by the City on the North side and there fals into the sea and at the corner on the North side is a strong Fort. Here I paid vpon reckoning two giulij for my supper and as much next day for my dinner and returning to Pisa by water I paid seuen creitzers for my passage Two weekes being thus spent I thought good to returne to Florence that I might receiue my money which I had not receiued before because for feare of the inquisition I onely staied there Easter day in the Dutch Inne Therefore hiring a horse for foure giulij I rode forty miles to Florence through the pleasant valley of Arno partly tilled after the manner of Lombardy where the same field yeelds corne wine wood partly diuided into sweet pastures By the way it hapened that I brake a bough of a mulbery tree to shade me from the sunne and falling into the company of an honest Gentleman he told me I seemed a stranger because I carried that bough since those trees planted in the high waies belonged to the Duke who preserued them for silke-wormes and had imposed a great penalty vpon any that should breake a bough thereof so as if I passed with this bough
twelfth did build with Regall expence this Chamber and another called the Chamber of Accounts vulgarly la chambre des comptes In this Pallace the Chappell built by Saint Lewis lyes vpon an arched Chappell which hath no pillars in the middest but onely on the sides and they say that the true Images of Christ and the blessed Virgin are vpon the lower dore And in this Chappell the reliques are kept which Balduinus the Emperour of Constantinople ingaged to the Venetians and the King of France redeemed out of their hands In the very Hall of the Pallace round about the pillars are shops of small wares or trifles Right against the Gate of the Pallace stood the house of Iohn Chastell which was pulled downe in memorie of a young man his sonne brought vp among the Iesuites and a practiser of their wicked doctrine who attempting the death of King Henrie the fourth did strike out one of his teeth I haue said formerly that this Iland was ioyned to the Ville by three Bridges and to the Vniuersitie by two Bridges and at this time is ioyned to them both by the sixth Bridge The first V Bridge towards South-East leades to the street of Saint Martin and is called pont de nostre Dame that is the Bridge of our Lady and it was built of wood in the yeere 1417 hauing threescore walking paces in length and eighteene in breadth and threescore houses of bricke on each side built vpon it But this bridge in the time of Lewis the twelfth falling with his owne weight was rebuilt vpon sixe Arches of stone with threescore eight houses all of like bignesse built vpon it and was paued with stone so that any that passed it could hardly discerne it to bee a Bridge The second Bridge of the Broakers vulgarly W Pont au Change is supported with pillars of wood The third Bridge of the Millers vulgarly called X Pont aux Musniers lies towards the North-West and leades to the streete of Saint Denis which they say did fall and was rebuilt within three yeeres then past By these three Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Ville The fourth Bridge lying on the other side of the Iland towards the South leades into the streete of Saint Iames and is called Y le petit pont that is The little Bridge being rebuilt or repaired of stone by King Charles the sixth The sifth Bridge is called Z Saint Michell and lying towards the South-West side leades into the streete of Saint Michell and hath a pleasant walke towards the foresaid Bridge of the millers on the other side of the Iland and built vpon pillars of wood was repaired in the yeere 1547 and adorned with bricke houses By these two Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Vniuersitie Since that time after the ende of the Ciuill warre a new Bridge hath been lately built on that side of the Iland which lyes towards the North-West and it is called XX pont neuf that is The new Bridge ioyning the Iland both to the Ville and to the Vniuersitie The chiefe streetes of the Iland are the very Bridges and the 〈◊〉 waies leading to the Cathedrall Church and to the greater Pallace The Church or the little Citie compassed with walles in respect of the Church of Saint Denis the Protecting Saint of the French is two little miles distant from Paris Hither I went passing by the Gate of Saint Denis lying towards the North East Thence I passed vpon a way paued with Flint in a large Plaine towards the East hauing Mount Falcon on my right hand whether I said that they vse to draw the dead bodies of those that are beheaded in the Ville and the next way to this mount is to goe out by the Gate of Saint Martin And vpon my left hand I had the Mountaine of the Martirs vulgarly called Mont Martre and the next way from the Citie to this Mountaine is to goe out by the Gate Mont Martre Vpon this Mountaine they say that the Martyrs Dennis Areopagita and Rustieus and Eleutherius were beheaded in the time of Domitian because they would not offer sacrifice to Mercurie And they constantly beleeue this miracle that all these three Martyrs carried each one his head to the Village Catula which now is called Saint Dennis And I obserued by the way many pillars with Altars set vp in the places where they say the Martyrs rested forsooth with their heades in their hand and at last fell downe at Catula where this Church was built ouer them and likewise a a Monastery by King Dagobertus who also lyes there buried and hath a statua in the Cloister of the Monastery Here are the Sepulchers of the Kings among which that of King Francis the 〈◊〉 is somewhat more stately then the other being of white Marble with the statuaes of that King and his Queene Claudia there buried with him That of Lewis the twelfth and his Queene is of white Marble but lesse faire and the third erected to Charles the eight in a Chappell of the Church is of blacke Marble with some statuaes of brasse To conclude to euery three or foure of the rest of the Kings one poore monument is erected Neither are these sepulchers of the Kings in my opinion any thing stately or answerable to the fame But at the entrance of the Chauncell the representation of Christ buried and of the three Kings or Wisemen and of the shepheards and others there engrauen seemed to me who haue no skill in that Art to bee of much Art and beautie I haue read other Itineraries which relate that here are bells of most pure Mettal that the dores are of Brasse guilded ouer that the Table of the high Altar is of Gold that here is a Crosse of Gold offered by King Dagobert that the bodies of the Martyrs are laid in a coffin of Gold that the roofe of the Church is partly of siluer and that there is a Crucifix of Gold before the Altar But I should thinke that these old ornaments are taken away and not to bee seene at this day Hauing viewed Paris I desired to see the French King Henrie the fourth and his Court and because I lately had been robbed aswell of my cloake as of my Crownes here I bought for some two French Crownes an old cloake among the Brokers in the Market place called the Fripperie So I tooke my iourney towards the Court and went by boate vpon the Seyne which boat daily passeth from Paris towards the South nine leagues to Corbeuile and foure leagues to Melune hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and I payed seuen soulz for my passage Then I went on foote foure miles ouer a Mountaine paued with Flint to the Kings Pallace called Fontain-bleau that is the Fountaine of faire water Beyond the same Mountaine this Pallace of the King is seated in a Plaine compassed with Rockes And it is built with Kingly Magnificence of Free-stone diuided into
we walked on foot one mile to Midleburge where being inuited by our friends as we were at Vlishing we supped on free cost The twelfth day wee passed by Sea in two houres space to Armuren where wee cast anchor not without feare of Spanish Pirats who comming with small boates out of the Castle Wouda did then many robberies vpon this Sea The thirteenth day in the morning wee sailed nine miles to the Iland Plat where a Man of warre sent out by the States against these Pirats did lie at anchor vnder the guard whereof we also lay at anchor the night following The fourteenth day in the morning hauing alwaies a faire winde wee sailed eight milcs to Delphs hauen in Holland where we left our Barke and each man payed twelue stiuers for his passage and my selfe gaue three stiuers to a Marriner that had attended me From hence my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for 18 stiuers to the Hage where I payed for my supper a Flemish guilden and seuenteene stiuers The fiftenth day of December which after the new stile was Christmas day that Feast by the old stile falling on the twentie fiue of December my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for two guldens for two long miles to Leyden From Leyden at a set hower euery day boates passe to all the next Cities and we entring the boat that went for Amsterdam payed each of vs 6 stiuers for our passage First wee passed fiue miles vpon the Lake called Harlam Meare which Lake is much subiect to Tempests Our boate was then drawne by force of hands ouer a Damme into a Channell of water in which we passed two miles and so came to Amsterdam The boates are thus drawne out of the Lake into the Channell by a priuiledge granted to Harlam because that Citie had spent much money in the workes for conueyance of waters And this was granted to them to the ende that this passage being shut vp to Barkes of greater burthen the Merchants wares passing by land should be forced to come by Harlam We lodged in a English Merchants house at Amsterdam and payed eight stiuers for each meale The seuenteenth of December we entred a little ship to saile out of Holland into West-Freesland but being almost frozen in with yce after wee had sailed two dayes and a night with great danger through huge pieces of yce and were the second night also compassed therewith and had been forced to lie at anchor a good space we hardly arriued the third day at Horne in North Holland which Citie is fiue miles distant from Amsterdam and each man payed ten stiuers for our passage and two stiuers for the vse of a little cabbin in the ship The ninteenth day we would needs go on foot two miles as long as ten English miles to Enchnsen because they asked foure guldens and a half for a Wagon And in the mid way it hapned that we light vpon a sledg which wee 4 consorts hired for 20 stiuers and therin wee were all carried but for my part I paied 5 stiuers more for the cariage of my necessaries And we could not sufficiently maruell at our first setting forth that the Villages should be so frequent in such an obscure Countrey as wee could hardly see how they were parted one from the other for halfe the way at least From hence we sailed with a very faire wind in three houres space two miles to Stauern a Village seated in West Freezland and each man paid ten stiuers for his passage foure for his supper and foure for beere The next day we passed on foot one mile of Freezland which miles are exceeding long to Warcome and we hired two Clownes for two guldens to carry our necessaries which Clownes drinking stoutly all the night we were forced beyond our bargaine to pay for their intemperance which wrong we could not auoid though we much repined at it Early in the morning we passed by water one mile ouer a Lake to Bolsworth and each man paid two stiuers and a halfe for his passage and eight stiuers and a halfe for his dinner In the afternoone we hired a boat for three miles to Lewerden and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and thirty foure stiuers for his supper and breakefast with wine The next day in the morning we might haue passed to Groning in a common boat each man paying twelue stiuers but because the couetous Marriners had ouerloaded it and the winds were boisterous we foure consorts hired a priuate boate for seuen guldens and a halfe The first day we passed by water fiue miles to Kaltherberg that is the cold Inne with a very faire wind but so boysterous as we were in no small feare Here each man paid twelue stiuers for his supper and seuen stiuers for his drinke while in good fellowship we sate at the fier after supper The next day we passed in the same boat two miles to Groning in a great tempest of wind besides that in the midst of the Lake we lost our Rudder being thereby in great danger had not the waues of the water by Gods mercy driuen it to vs. Here we paid eight stiuers each man for a plentifull dinner but without wine In the afternoone we passed by water two miles to Delphs I le and each man paid forty stiuers for the hier of the boate and twenty foure stiuers for supper and breakefast and fire in our priuate chamber From hence we sayled with a most faire wind in two houres space two miles to Emden the first City of the German Empire seated in East Friezland and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and as much for his dinner In the afternoone we passed in a boat hired for foure guldens whereof each man paid ten stiuers for his part three miles to a little City Lyre and by the way passed by the Fort Nordlire in which the Earle of Emden held his Court. We rested at Lyre this night and the next day being Christmas day by the old stile and each man paid sixteene stiuers for each supper and eight stiuers for one dinner The Spanish Garisons daily sent out free-booters into these parts with the permission of the Earle of Emden for his hatred to the Citizens of Emden who lately had shut him out of their City and of the Earle of Oldenburge for his hatred against the Citizens of Breme Therefore we being here many passengers did at last obtaine of the Earle of Emden that we might hier his souldiers to conduct vs safely for some few miles To these souldiers we gaue twenty one dollers yet when at the three miles end we came to the Village Stickhausen and were now in the greatest danger they as hired to goe no further would needes returne till each of vs gaue them a German gulden to conduct vs onely to the next village being the confines of the Counties of Emdens and Oldenburg To which they were perswaded not so much by our prayers as by
at Harlem was first made And of these tnrffes they make fiers both cleere and of good smell without smoke and commodious to dresse meat to starch linnen and like vses They are notable Marriners yet in that to be blamed that being at Sea they vse no publike prayers that euer I heard And seuerall Cities haue great numbers of ships wherein they trade with such Industry and subtilty as they are in that point enuied of till Nations The very Italians who in foreseeing wisdome would bee accounted Promethei were by them made Epimethei wise after the deed too late repenting that when they came first to settie their trade in Flaunders they tooke youug youths of that Nation to bee their Cassiers who by writing letters for them learned the secrets of that trade and after to the Italians great preiudice exercised it themselues Some three Flemmings brethren or partners vse to settle themselues in as many Cities of great trade where they keepe such correspondency as by buying all things at the well head where they are cheapest and transporting them farre off where they are dearest and especially by liuing sparingly both in dyet and apparrell and not shaming to retaile any commodity in small parts which great Merchants disdaine to sell otherwise then by whole sale they haue attained the highest knowledge and riches of trading Thus they buy rawe silke of the Turkes and weaue the same into diuers stusses in Italy which they sell not there but transport them into England and the Northerne parts where they beare highest price and there retaile them by the smallest proportions They haue of their owne very fine Linnen and Woollen cloathes of diuers kindes and many clothes of Cotton Arras hangings plenty of Hops aswell on the Sea-coast of Beabant as in the East part of Holland and great store of Butter Cheese and Fish salted and dryed all which they transport Againe they bring from Dantzke store of Hemp whereof themselues make Ropes and Cables neither transport they any rude matter but by working it at home inrich many populous Cities Also from Dantzke they bring corne all kindes of pitch and other commodities of that place and from Italy many kindes of silke stuffies Also by the diligent fishing especially of Hertings on the Sea-coast of England they grow rich selling the same to all Nations and to the very English who are not so industrious in that trade Lastly they draw the commodities of all Nations to them and fetch them from the very Indies and in like sort they transport them to the remotest parts where they yeeld most gaine It is not amisse to adde the very words of Marchantius writing of the olde trade of Burges in Flanders since what I haue written is onely to bee vnderstood of the vnited Prouinces Thus he saith Lodouicus Crassus in the yeere 1323. granted a staple to Bruges which his sonne Malanus confirmed The Staple is a priuiledge of staying forraine Commodities in the place except the seller and bringer chuse rather to returne whence they came Bruges hath a Market place with a house for the meeting of Merchants at noone and euening which house was called the Burse of the houses of the extinct Family Bursa bearing three purses for their Armes engraueu vpon their houses The Marchants of England Scotland France Castilia Portugal Aragon Nanar Catnlania Biscaia the Hans Cities of Germanie namely Lubeck Hamberg Rostoch Dantzk eRiga Renel and diuers other Cities the Marchants of Venice Florence Genoa Luca and Milan namely fifteene Nations had each their Colledge or house here The Italians brought Chamblets and Grogram in made of Goates hayre in Galatia a prouince of the Lesser Asia they brought Hides thred of Silke of Siluer and of Gold and cloathes made of them they brought Iewels Wines of Candia Allum Brimstone Oyle Spices Apothecary Wares Mithridate Rhubarb Mummy Sena Cassia and the soile of Brasse The French brought Salt Red and white Wines Oyle and Paper The English brought Wooll Leade Tynne Beere Woollen cloathes especially those so make vailes for the Low countrey women The Scots brought skinnes of sheepe Conneys and other and course woollen cloathes The Spaniards and Portugals brought graine for Scarlet Dye Gold Siluer raw Silke thred of Silke the wood Guiacum Salsaparilla Vnicornes Horne and Spices The Germans with the Danes and Polakes brought Honey Waxe Corne Salt-Peter Wooll Glasse rich Furs Quick-siluer Armes Rhenish Wines Timber for building Againe they exported out of Flanders faire and great Horses fat Beenes Butter diuers kindes of Cheese pickeld and fumed Hertings diuers Sea-fishes salted Woollen and Linnen clothes Tapestry of great variety and beauty rare pictures and all manuary workes Thus Flanders gaue the name to all Netherland Bruges 〈◊〉 in the yeere 1414. got a priuiledge that they who were free of that Citie by Birth Gift Buying or Marriage should be free from all confiscation of their goods which exceedeth the priuiledges of any other Citie in Netherland for those of Ypre hauing the like yet loose it vpon any Force offered to the Prince The trade at Bruges beganne to decay in the yeere 1485 partly for the narrownesse and vnsafety of the Port of Sluce and the Riuer leading from thence to Bruges partly by the Fame of the large and commodious Riuer Scaldis at Antwerp and partly by the ciuill Warres For first the Portugals hauing taken Callicut in the East Indies carried their famous Spices to the Fayre of Antwerp in the yeere 1503. and contracting with that Citie drew the Fuggari and Welfari German Merchants thither And after the Merchants of Florence Lucca and the Spinolae of Genor and those of other Nations excepting part of the Spaniards leauing Bruges seated themselues at Antwerp about the yeere 1516. And they were inuited thither by the priuiledge of Marriage Dowries which became shadowes to many frauds For when Husbands either breake in life time or be found banckerouts at death the Wiues are preferred to all debters in the recouery of their dowry Notwithstanding Bruges at this day by the third generall taxe of Flaunders yet in vse payes something more then Ghant for publike vses These be the words of Iacobus Marchantius The foresaid trade of the vnited Prouinces hath at home much commodity and increase by the Riuers as the Rheine bringing downe the commodities of Germany and by the standing or little mouing waters which are most frequent and by channels or ditches wrought by hand and bearing at least little boates for passage to each City and Village but these waters for the most part ending in standing pooles by reason they fall into a low ground neere the Sea the Ayre is vnholsome the waters are neither of good smell nor taste neither doe they driue Mils as running waters doe elsewhere of which kind they haue few or none My selfe in a darke rainy day passing one of these said narrow channels numbered an hundred little boates at least which passed by vs and are hired at a
shirt till it be worne And these shirts in our memory before the last Rebellion were made of some twenty or thirty elles folded in wrinckles and coloured with saffron to auoid lowsinesse incident to the wearing of foule linnen And let no man wonder that they are lowsie for neuer any barbarous people were found in all kinds more slouenly then they are and nothing is more common among them then for the men to lie vpon the womens laps on greene hils till they kill their lice with a strange nimblenesse proper to that Nation Their said breeches are so close as they expose to full view not onely the noble but also the shamefull parts yea they stuffe their shirts about their priuy parts to expose them more to the view Their wiues liuing among the English are attired in a sluttish gowne to be fastned at the breast with a lace and in a more sluttish mantell and more sluttish linnen and their heads be couered after the Turkish manner with many elles of linnen onely the Turkish heads or Tulbents are round in the top but the attire of the Irish womens heads is more flat in the top and broader on the sides not much vnlike a cheese mot if it had a hole to put in the head For the rest in the remote parts where the English Lawes and manners are vnknowne the very cheefe of the Irish as well men as women goe naked in very Winter time onely hauing their priuy parts couered with a ragge of linnen and their bodies with a loose mantell so as it would turne a mans stomacke to see an old woman in the morning before breakefast This I speake of my owne experience yet remember that the foresaid Bohemian Barron comming out of Scotland to vs by the North parts of the wild Irish told me in great earnestnes when I attended him at the Lord Deputies command that he comming to the house of Ocane a great Lord among them was met at the doore with sixteene women all naked excepting their loose mantles whereof eight or ten were very faire and two seemed very Nimphs with which strange sight his eyes being dazelled they led him into the house and there sitting downe by the fier with crossed legges like Taylors and so low as could not but offend chast eyes desired him to set downe with them Soone after Ocane the Lord of the Countrie came in all naked excepting a loose mantle and shooes which he put off assoone as he came in and entertaining the Barron after his best manner in the Latin tongue desired him to put off his apparrel which he thought to be a burthen to him and to sit naked by the fier with this naked company But the Barron when he came to himselfe after some astonishment at this strange right professed that he was so inflamed therewith as for shame he durst not put off his apparrell These Rogues in Summer thus naked beare their armes girding their swords to them by a with in stead of a girdle To conclude men and women at night going to sleepe lie thus naked in a round circle about the fier with their feete towards it and as I formerly said treating of their diet they fold their heads and vpper partes in their woollen mantles first steeped in water to keepe them warme For they say that woollen cloth wetted preserues heate as linnen wetted preserues cold when the smoke of their bodies hath warmed the woollen cloth CHAP. III. Of the Germans and Bohemians Commonwealth vnder which title I containe an Historicall introduction the Princes pedegrees and Courts the present state of things the tributes and reuenews the military state for Horse Foote and Nauy the Courts of Iustice rare Lawes more specially the Lawes of inheritance and of womens Dowries the capitall Iudgements and the diuersitie of degrees in Family and Common-wealth COnstantine the great made Emperour about the yeere 306 remoued his seate from Rome to Constantinople and at his death deuided the Empire among his children And howsoeuer the Empire was after sometimes vnited in the person of one Prince for his reigne yet it could neuer bee againe established in one body but was most commonly deuided into the Easterne and Westerne Empires In the time of Augustulus Emperour of the West the remote Countries of the Empire recouered their liberty by the sword and barbarous Nations in great armies inuaded the Empire till they possessed Italy so as this Emperour was forced to depose his Imperiall dignity about the yeere 476. And thus the Westerne Empire ceased till Charles the great King of France about the yeere 774 subdued the Lombards and was at Rome saluted Emperour of the West by Pope Leo the third and the Princes of Italy From which time the Empires of the East and West of old deuided by inheritance among brothers and Kinsmen had no more any mutuall right of succession but began to bee seuerally gouerned Histories write that Charles the great King of France was descended of the Germans and that all Gallia Transalpina that is beyond the Alpes and vpper Germany as farre as Hungary were by a common name called France onely deuided into Easterne and Westerne France And the diuers Nations of Germany formerly gouerned by their Kings and Dukes were at this time first vnited vnder this Charles the great About the yeere 911. Conrade the first Ion to the Duke of Franconia a large Prouince of Germany was first out of the race of Charles the great saluted Emperour of the West by the Princes of Germany though Charles the Simple and others of the race of Charles the great still reigned France to the yeere 988 yet with lesse reputation then their progenitors had and troubled with many confusions Thus Germany deuiding it selfe from France drew to it selfe the Empire of the West whereof in our age it retaineth rather the shadow then the old glory Foure Dukes of Saxony succeeded Conrade in this Empire and in the time of Otho the third Duke of Saxony and Emperour contrary to the former custome whereby the Emperours succeeded by right of bloud or the last testament of the deceased Emperour or by the consent of the Princes of Germany the election of the Emperour was in the yeere 984 established hereditary to seuen Princes of Germany called Electors by a law made by the Emperour and the Pope From that time the Empire hath remained in Germany with free election yet so as they most commonly therein respected the right of bloud in which respect the house of Austria hath long continued in the possession of the Empire And the Emperours of Germany for many ages by this right gouerned Italy and receiued their Crowne at Rome till wearied and worne out by the treacheries of the Popes and forced to beare the publike burthen vpon their priuate reuenues they were made vnable to support their former dignity For these causes Rodulphus of Habsburg of the house of Austria chosen Emperour in the yeere 1273 first