In this County there be Parish Churches 158. WORCESTER-SHIRE THe second region of the ancient CORNAVII having now changed the name is called in Latine Wigorniensis Comitatus in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and now commonly of the principall Towne in it WORCESTER-SHIRE the inhabitants whereof together with those who joyning unto them round about in Bedes daies before that England was divided into Shires were termed Wiccii Which name if it were not given them of the river having so many windings which they dwell by for such turnings and curving reaches of a river the English Saxons as I have already said called Wic may seeme to have been derived of those Salt-pits that the old English-men in their language named Wiches For there be here very notable Salt-pits and many salt springs often times have been found which notwithstanding are stopped up because it was provided as we read that for the saving of woods salt should not be boyled but in certaine places Neither let it seeme strange that places have their names given them from Salt-pits considering that wee may meet with many such here and there in every Country and our Ancestors the Germans as Tacitus writeth had a religious perswasion and beliefe that such places approach neerest to Heaven and that mens prayers were no where sooner heard of the gods This County on which Warwick-shire confineth on the East Glocester-shire on the South bounded West-ward with Hereford-shire and Shrop-shire Northeast with Stafford shire to say all in one word hath so temperate an ayre and soile so favourable that for healthfulnesse and plenty it is not inferiour to their neighbour Countries and in one part for deinty Cheese surpasseth them yeelding such store of Peares as none other the like and albeit they are not so pleasing to these deinty and delicate mouthes yet out of their winish juice they make a bastard kinde of wine called Pyrry which they drinke very much although it be as other drinks of that kinde both cold and full of winde Neither is it if you respect waters lesse pleasant and commodious for in every place there be passing sweet rivers which affoord in great abundance the most delicate kinde of Fishes And to let those runne by that are of lesse account Severne that noble and renowned river carrieth his streame along through the middest of the shire from North to South and Avon that commeth downe out of Warwick-shire to meet with Severne watereth the South part thereof Severn first of all at his very entry passeth betweene Kidderminster and Beawdley This Beawdley worthily so called for the beautifull site thereof standeth most pleasantly upon the hanging of an hill and hovereth over the river on the West side of late daies well knowne for the admirable tallnesse of trees growing in the Forrest of Wyre adjoyning which now in a manner be all gone Whence our Poet and Antiquary Leland wrote thus Delicium rerum Bellus Locus undique floret Fronde coronatus Virianae tempora Sylvae Beawdley a fine and deinty thing is goodly to be seene All dight about with guirland fresh of Wire that Forest greene But now is this little Towne in speech and request onely for the pleasantnesse and beautie of it selfe and withall for the Kings house Tiken-hall which King Henry the Seventh built to be a retyring place for Prince Arthur at which time he graunted some liberties to Beawdley But farther from the river banke Eastward is Kidderminster over against it called also Kidelminster a faire Towne and hath a great Mercate of all commodities well frequented parted in twaine by the little River Stowre that runneth through it and the greatest ornaments now belonging thereto are first a passing beautifull Church wherein some of the worshipfull family of the Corkeseis lie buried and the goodly gallant house of the Blounts of knights degree descended from those of Kinlet but in old time this place was of most note for the Lords thereof the Bissets men in their time right honorable whose rich possessions being at length dismembred and divided among sisters came partly to the Barons of Abergevenny and in part to a Lazarhouse of women in Wilt-shire which one of the said sisters being her selfe infected with the Leprosie built for them that had the same disease and enriched it with her owne patrimony and childs part Afterwards it came to have a Baron for King Richard the Second created Sir Iohn Beauchamp Steward of his household Baron Beauchamp of Kidderminster by letters Patents and is accounted the first Baron so created But he soone after by the Barons who together with the Commons rose and contemning the Kings authority called as many as were most deere unto the King to give an account for their misgovernement of the Common-weale was with other right worthy persons in malice to the King condemned and beheaded Severne turning his course somewhat awry from thence saluteth Hertlebury a Castle of the Bishops of Worcester not far distant and goeth amaine to Holt Castle so called of a very thick wood there belonging sometime to the Abtots after to the Beauchamps who springing from William Beauchamp surnamed the Blinde Baron grew up afterwards to be a most honorable family the inheritance whereof descended at length to Gyse and Penyston from hence runneth Severne downe feeding such a number of fresh-water Lampries as that Nature may seeme in this place to have made a very pond or Stew for them such as the Romanes devised in ancient times when they grew lavish in riotous excesse These fishes we call Lampries of the Latin word Lampetra as one would say of licking the rocks are like to Eeles slippery and blackish howbeit beneath on their bellies somewhat blew on either side of their throates they receive and let in water at seven holes for that they want gils altogether Most commendable they are in the spring time as being then very sweet for in Summer the inner nerve or string which stands them insteed of a backe bone waxeth hard The Italians make them more delicate in tast by a speciall and peculiar seasoning For they take a Lamprie and in Malvesy kill it the mouth they close up with a nutmeg fill all the holes with as many cloves and when it is rolled up round putting thereto fillbard-nut kernels stamped crums of bread oile malvesey and spices they boyle it with great care and certaine turnings over a soft and temperate fire of coles in a frying pan But what have I to doe with such cookery and Apicius Beneath Holt Severne openeth his East banke to let in the river Salwarp comming a pace toward him This hath his first veines out of Lickey hill most eminent in the North part of this Shire neare unto which at Frankeley the family of the Litletons was planted by Iohn Litleton aliàs Westcote the famous Lawyer Justice in the Kings Bench in the time of King Edward the
which were left behind to build fortresses in the Silures country And if the villages ans forts next adjoyning had not speedily come to rescue they had beene put to the sword every man Neverthelesse the Camp-Master with eight Centurions and all the forwardest maniples of common souldiers were slaine and not long after they put to flight our forragers and the very troupes of horsemen that were sent out to succour them Then Ostorius setteth out certaine companies lightly appointed and yet thereby could not stay their flight had not the Legions come in and undertooke the battell By their strength they fought with small ods on either hand but afterward wee had the better of it and the enemie betooke himselfe to his heeles and escaped with small losse because the day was farre spent After this they had many skirmishes and for the most part in manner of rodes and robberies in woods on marishes rashly or with foresight it skilled not according as it fell out either as occasion by chance or their owne hearts served them one while for anger another while for booty sometime by commandement from their Captaines and sometimes againe without their warrant and privitie but principally through the wilfull obstinacie of the Silures who were exasperated with a speech of the Roman Generalls that was bruted abroad and came to their eares which was this That as the Sugambri were rooted out and transported over into Gaul so the name of the Silures should utterly be extinguished And in this heat they intercepted two auxiliary bands as they through the avarice of their Praefects forraied and spoiled without advised circumspection Also by large giving away of spoiles and prisoners they drew the rest of the Nations to revolt And then Ostorius wearied with care and griefe of heart yielded up his vitall breath Whereat the enemies rejoyced as at the death of a Captaine not to be despised who though he died not in battell yet was toiled out and spent by reason of the warres But Caesar having intelligence of his Lieutenants death lest the Province should bee destitute of a governour appointed A. Didius in his place He beeing thither come with great speed yet found not all in good state For in the meane space the Legion whereof Manlius Valens had the charge met with an unlucky and disasterous fight The fame whereof the enemies had made greater than it was to terrifie the captaine which was comming who also in the like policie multiplied all that he heard to win more praise by appeasing those troubles or to purchase pardon more easily if they continued still The Silures were they that wrought us this displeasure and damage whereupon they overran the province far and nere untill such time as by Didius his comming they were driven backe About this time Claudius departed this life and Nero succeeded him in the Empire one who had no heart at all to attempt any thing in warfare nay he was minded once to withdraw the forces out of Britain Neither gave he over that intent of his but onely for shame lest he might have been thought to deprave the glory of Claudius After that Caractacus was taken Venutius a very expert man above the rest in military affaires borne under the state of the Iugantes long time trusty to us and defended by the Romanes power having to wife Queene Cartismandua by occasion soone after of a divorce and then of open war between them rebelled also against us and proceeded to plaine hostility At the first the quarrell was onely between them two untill Cartismandua by pollicie and craft had intercepted the brother and neere kinsmen of Venutius Whereupon our enemies kindled with rage and pricked forward with an ignominous indignity lest they should be brought under the yoke of a womans government with a strong power of choise youth by force of armes invaded her kingdome which was foreseen by us and thereupon were cohorts sent to aid her and they fought a hot battell The beginning whereof was doubtfull but the end more joifull The Legion also which Cesius Nasica commanded fought with like successe For Didius yee must thinke being strucken in yeeres and having many honours heaped upon him thought it sufficient to execute his charge and keep off the enemy by the ministery of others For what was woon by others he held onely a few fortresses he built forward farther into the country whereby he might purchase the name of enlarging his office These exploits although they were atchieved by two Propraetors Ostorius and Didius in many years yet I thought good to joyne together lest beeing severed they should not so well have beene remembred After Didius Avicus there succeeded Verannius who having with small rodes spoiled the Silures was hindered by death for warring any farther a man while he lived carrying a great name of precise severitie but in his last will he shewed himselfe manifestly ambitious For after much flattering of Nero he added this That he would have subdued the Province unto his obedience if he had lived the next two yeares But then Suetonius Paulinus governed the Britans one in martiall skill and opinion of the people which suffereth no man without a concurrent striving to match Corbule desirous to equall the honour which he won in recovering Armenia by subduing the enemies that stood out in this country And therefore hee maketh all the preparation hee can to invade the Isle of Mona peopled with strong Inhabitants and a receptacle of traiterous fugitives To this purpose hee buildeth flat botom vessels for the shalowes and uncertaine landing places Thus the footmen passed over and then followed the horsemen by the foord or if the waters were any thing high by swimming they put the horses over Against them the enemies stood upon the shore in divers places embattelled thicke in array well appointed with men and weapons with women also running among who all in blacke and mournefull array with their haire about their eares carried firebrands before them in their hands like the Furies of hell The Druidae likewise round about them lifting up their hands to heaven and pouring out deadly and cursing praiers with this so strange and uncoâ—th sight amazed the souldiers so as they stood still as stockes and stirred not a foot as if they would expose their bodies to receive all wounds presented unto them But afterwards being encouraged by their Captaine and animating one another that they should not feare a flocke of women and franticke people they displaied their ensignes and advanced forward Downe they went with such as encountred them and thrust them within their owne fires This done they planted garrisons in their townes and cut downe their woods and groves consecrated to their execrable superstitions For they accounted it lawfull to offer sacrifies upon their altars with the bloud of captives and to aske counsell of their Gods by inspection of mens fibres and entrailes As Suetonius was
they were seated in the nocke hole of the world after much satyricall sharpnesse came out with these round rhymes Non opus est ut opes numerem quibus est opulenta Et per quas inopes sustentat non ope lenta Piscibus stanno nusquam tam fertilis ora I need not here report the wealth wherewith enrich'd it is And whereby alwaies to sustaine poore folke it doth not misse No coast elsewhere for fish and tinne so plentious ywis And yet is Cornwall nothing happier in regard of the soile than it is for the people who as they were endued and adorned with all civilitie even in those ancient times For by reason of their acquaintance with merchants sailing thither for tin as Diodorus Siculus reporteth they were more courteous toward strangers so they are valiant hardie wel pitcht in stature brawny strong limmed such as for wrastling to speak nothing of that manly exercise fear of hurling the Ball which they use so farre excell that for slight and cleane strength together they justly win the prize and praise from other nations in that behalfe Moreover that Poet Michael when as in the excessive commendation of his country men hee had with gigging rimes resounded how Arthur in his battels gave them the honour to give the first charge he thus couragiously concludeth in rime Quid nos deterret si firmiter in pede stemus Fraus ninos superet nihil est quod non superemus What frighteth us if footing sure we have on steady ground Barre crafty sleights there is no force but we can it confound And hereof peradventure ariseth the report so generally received that Giants in times past Inhabited this countrey For Havillan the Poet who lived foure hundred yeares since in describing of certaine British Giants wrote pleasantly of Britaine and the Cornish Giants in this wise Titanibus illa Sed paucis famulosa domus quibus uda ferarum Terga dabant vestes cruor haustus pocula trunci Antra Lares Dumeta thoros coenacula rupes Praeda cibos raptus venerem spectacula caedes Imperium vires animos furor impetus arma Mortem pugna sepulchra rubus monstrisque gemebat Monticolis tellus sed eorum plurima tractus Pars erat occidui terror majorque premebat Te furor extremum Zephyri Cornubia limen A lodge it was to Giants fell though few of Titans brood Enthralled whose garments were raw hides of beasts full wood Their bloud they dranke but cups they made of hollow blocks and stocks Caves serv'd for cabins bushes for beds for chambers craggie rocks Prey slak'd their hunger rape their lust in murder tooke they Joy Force gave them rule and furie heart wrath weapons to annoy Fight brought theÌ„ death grieves were their graves thus groan'd the ground againe With mountain-Monsters Howbeit of them the number maine Did pester most the westerne tract more feare made thee agast O Cornwall utmost dore that art to let in Zephirus blast Now whether this firme and wel compact constitution of the Cornish-men which proceedeth from the temperature of heat and moisture is to bee referred unto the breeding-west wind and the Westerne situation thereof like as wee see that in Germanie the Batavians in France the Gascoines who be farthest Westward are the ablest and most valiant or rather to some peculiar and speciall reason of aire and soile it is not my purpose to search curiously Now let us treat of the Promontories Cities and Rivers whereof ancient writers have made mention For this is my principall project beginning at the furthest point and so surveying first the Southerne shore then the Northern and lastly the course of the river Tamara which severeth this countie from Devonshire The utmost Promontorie which lieth upon the Western Ocean and is distant 17. degrees and no more in the globe or surface of the earth from the Ilands called Azores is called by Ptolomee Bolerium and by Diodorus Belerium perhaps of the British word Pell which signifieth a thing most remote or farthest off by Ptolomee also the same is termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or ANTIVESTAEVM by the Britans I meane their Bardie onely or Poets Penringuâ—ed that is the Promontorie of Bloud For the Welsh Historians name it Penwith that is the Promontorie on the left hand The Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For Steort with them betokeneth a peece of land shooting into the Sea and hereupon all that Hundred of Penwith at this day is called by borderers in their language Pen voâ— las that is the end of the land and in the same sence we in English name it The lands end because it is the utmost part of the Iland toward the West And if this Promontorie were sometimes called Helenum as Volaterran and the late writers affirme it came not of Helenus K. Priams sonne but of Pen-Elin which â—ignifieth in the British tongue an Elbow as Ancon doth in Greeke And seeing that crooked and bending shores be termed of the Greekes Ancâ—nes as Elbows for so Plinie witnesseth of Ancona in Italie no absurditie is it at all that this crooked and bowing shore should by the Britans in the same sence be called Pen-elin and thereof that Latin name Helenum be derived But as touching this name Antivestaeum I was wont now and then to doubt whether it savoured not of some Greek originall For seeing it was a common and usuall thing with the Greeks to impose names upon places taken from the names of such as were opposite unto them not only in Greece it selfe where they have Rhium and Antirrhium but also in the Arabian gulfe where there is Bacchium and Antibacchium as also upon the gulf of Venice Antibarrium because it looketh towards Barrium lying over against it in Italie I searched diligently whether any place named Vestaeum lay opposite unto this our Antivestâ—um but finding no such thing I betooke my selfe againe to the British tongue neither yet can I here resolve my self But the Inhabitants doe suppose that this Promontorie heretofore ran further into the Sea and by the rubbish which is drawne out from thence the Mariners affirme the â—ame yea and the neighbor Inhabitants avouch out of I wote not what fable that the earth now covered there all over with the in-breaking of the Sea was called Lionesse In the utmost rocks of this Promontorie when at a low water they be bare there appeare veines of tin and copper and the people there dwelling report that there stood a watch-Tower upon it from whence by the light of burning fire there was a signe given unto Sailers no doubt ad speculam Hispaniae according as Orofius hath put downe in writing That the most high watch-towre of Brigantia in Gallicia a rare and admirable peece of worke was erected ad speculam Britannia that is if I well understand him either for the use of Mariners sailing out of Britaine toward Spaine or else over
Littons descended from Litton in Darbyshire I saw certaine round hils cast up and raised by mans hands such as the old Romanes were wont to reare for Souldiers slaine in the wars of which the Captaine himselfe laied the first turfe Unlesse some man would rather say they had a reference to the bounds For such like little hils in old time were reared to signifie the bounds of lands under which they used to lay ashes coales lime bricke and tile beaten to powder c. as I will shew else-where more at large Beneath this more Southward the river Lea by our forefathers named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 hath his head who with a milde course passeth down first by Whethamsted a towne plentifull in wheate whereof it tooke name which place John of Whethamsted there borne and thereof named a man in King Henry the Sixth his daies much renowned by his due desert of learning made of more estimation From thence running by Brocket Hall the residence in late time of the Brockets Knights approcheth neere unto Bishops Hatfield situate upon the fall and hanging of a little hill in the upper part whereof stood a house of the Kings now the Earle of Salisburies in times past belonging to the Bishops of Ely whereupon it was named Bishops Hatfield which John Morton Bishop of Ely reedified For in this place King Eadgar gave unto the Church of Ely forty hides of land Afterwards it passeth under Hertford which in some Copies of Bede is named Herudford where he treateth of the Synode there holden in the yeare of our Salvation 670. which name some interprete The red Ford others The Ford of Harts This Towne in William the Conquerours time discharged it selfe for ten hides and in it were 26. Burgesses and at that time Ralph Limsey a Noble man built heere a Cell for Saint Albans Monkes But now it is neither greatly inhabited nor much frequented and in this respect most of all commended because it is ancient For why it hath given name to the whole County and is reputed the Shire-towne A Castle it hath upon the River Lea built as men thinke by King Edward the elder and enlarged first by the house of Clare whereunto it belonged For Gislebert of Clare about King Henry the Second his dayes was accounted Earle of this Hertford and Robert Fitz-walter of the same house of Clare what time as Stephen seized into his hands all the Castles of England wheresoever avouched franckly even to Stephen his face as we read in Mathew of Paris that the keeping of this Castle by ancient right appertained to himselfe Afterwards it was laid unto the Crowne and King Edward the Third granted unto Iohn of Gaunt his sonne then Earle of Richmond who afterward was Duke of Lancaster this Castle with the Towne and honour of Hertford where as the very words runne in the Graunt hee might according to his estate keepe house and decently make his aboade From hence Lea falleth downe forthwith to Ware so named of a barre or dam made to stay water streames which our Ancestours called a Weare or Ware This Towne even at the very first did much harme unto Hertford and afterwards by reason it became so greatly hanted darkened as it were the light thereof For when the Barons warre against King John was waxed hote this Ware presuming much upon their Lord the Baron Wake turned London high way to it whereas before it was but a little Village and knowne by a Friery which hee founded neither was it lawfull to passe that way with any Carts considering that the Bridge was chained up the Keyes whereof were in the custody of the Bailiffe of Hertford Neere about which time Gilbert Marescall Earle of Pembroch a principall and most potent Peere of the Realme proclaimed heere a disport of running on horsebacke with launces which they call Tourneaments under the name of Fortunie making a scorne of the Kings Authority whereby such Toureneaments were inhibited To which place when a great number of the Nobility and Gentry were assembled it fortuned that himselfe as hee ranne at tilt by occasion that his flinging horse brake bridle and cast him was trampled under foote and so pittifully dyed These Justs or Tourneaments were certaine publique exercises of Armes and more than flourishes practised among noble Gentlemen and instituted if wee beleeve Munster in the yeare of our Lord 934. having also speciall lawes thereto belonging which you may finde in the said Munster and the same exercises were used a long time in such an outragious manner and with such flaughter of Gentlemen in all places but in England most of all since that King Stephen brought them in that by divers Decrees of the Church they were forbidden upon paine that whosoever therein were slaine should want Christian Buriall in Church or Churchyard and heere with us King Henry the Third by advise of his Sages made an Act of Parliament that their heires who transgressed in this kinde should be disinherited Howbeit contrary to the said law so good and wholesome this naughty and wicked custome was practised a great while and grew not quite out of use before the happy dayes of King Edward the Third Betwixt these two Townes Hertford and Ware distant scarce two miles a sunder Lea is encreased by two rilles from the North Asserius termeth them Mimeram and Benefician I would guesse that to bee Benefician upon which standeth Benington where the notable family of Bensted had in old time a little Castle and also Woodhall an habitation of the Butlers who being branched from Sir Ralph Butler Baron of Wem in Shropshire and his wife heire to William Pantulfe Lord of Wem were Lords of Pulre-bach and enriched much by an heire of Sir Richard Gobion and another of Peletot Lord of this place in the time of King Edward the Third I take Mimeran to bee the other brooke whereupon Pukerich is seated which by the grant of King Edward the First at the mediation of William le Bland had a Mercate and Faire granted to it Whereupon also neighboureth Standon with a seemely house built by Sir Ralph Sadleir Chauncellour of the Dutchy of Lancaster Privie Counsellour to three Princes and the last Knight Baneret of England a man so advanced for his great services and staied wisedome At the backe of Pukerich Munden Furnivall sheweth it selfe a place to bee remembred if it were but for this that Geffrey Earle of Britaine gave it to Gerard de Furnivall of whom also it bare the name a younger sonne of Furnivall of Sheffeld But now let us returne to the River Lea and the Towne of Ware unto which the Danes being come with their light Pinnaces and Shallops raised a Fort as the said Asserius reporteth which when King Aelfred could not winne by force hee by digging three severall Chanels turned aside the water of Lea that they might not returne with their Vessels So as ever since it stood
to take any thing that pertained to the Warren without the licence and good will of Henry himselfe and his Successours Which was counted in that age for a speciall favour and I note it once for all that we may see what Free Warren was But the male issue of this Family in the right line ended in Henry Kigheley of Inskip Howbeit the daughters and heires were wedded to William Cavendish now Baron Cavendish of Hardwick and to Thomas Worseley of Boothes From hence Are passeth beside Kirkstall an Abbay in times past of no small reckoning founded by Henry Lacy in the yeere 1147. and at length visiteth Leedes in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which became a house of the Kings when CAMBODUNUM was by the enemy burnt to the ground now a rich Towne by reason of clothing where Oswy king of Northumberland put to flight Penda the Mercian And as Bede saith this was to the great profit of both Nations for he both delivered his owne people from the hostile spoiling of the miscreants and also converted the Mercians themselves to the grace of Christian Faith The very place wherein they joyned battaile the writers call Winwidfield which name I suppose was given it of the Victory like as a place in Westphalia where Quintilius Varus with his legions was slaine is in the Dutch tongue called Winfield that is The fields of victory as that most learned man and my very good friend Abraham Ortelius hath observed The little Region or Territory about it was in times past by an old name called Elmet which Eadwin king of Northumberland the sonne of AElla after hee had expelled Cereticus a British king conquered in the yeere of Christ 620. Herein is digged limestone every where which is burnt at Brotherton and Knottingley and at certaine set times as it were at Faires a mighty quantity thereof is conveied to Wakefield Sandall and Stanbridge and so is sold unto this Westerne Country which is hilly and somewhat cold for to manure and enrich their Corne fields But let us leave these things to Husbandmen as for my selfe I professe my ignorance therein and will goe forward as I beganne At length Are entertaineth Calder aforesaid with his water as his Guest where neere unto the meeting of both Rivers standeth Castleford a little Village Marianus nameth it Casterford who reporteth that the Citizens of Yorke slew many of king Ethelreds Army there whom in their pursuite they set upon and charged heere and there at advantages what time as hee invaded and overranne this Country for breaking the allegeance they had sworne unto him But in Antonine this place is called by a more ancient name LEGEOLIUM and LAGETIUM Wherein beside expresse and notable tokens of Antiquity a mighty number of Roman peeces of money the common people there tearme them Sarasins head were found at Beanfield a place so called now of Beanes hard by the Church The distance also from DAN and YORKE betweene which he placed it doth most cleerely confirme as much to say nothing of the situation thereof hard by the Romanes High Street and last of all for that Roger Hoveden in plaine tearmes calleth it A City From hence Are being now bigger after it hath received Calder unto it leaveth on the left hand Brotherton a little Towne in which Queene Margaret turning thither out of the way as she road on hunting was delivered of childe and brought forth unto her Husband king Edward the First Thomas de Brotherton so named of the place who was afterward Earle of Norfolke and Mareshall of England And not farre beneath Are after it hath received into it Dan looseth himselfe in Ouse On the right hand where a yellower kinde of marke is found which being cast and spred upon the fields maketh them beare Corne for many yeeres together he passeth by Ponttract commonly called Pontfret situate not farre from the river banke which Towne gat life as it were by the death of old Legeolium In the Saxons time it was called Kirkby but the Normans of a broken Bridge named it in French Pontfract Upon this occasion it is commonly thought that the wooden Bridge over Are hard by was broken when a mighty multitude of people accompanied William Archibishop a great number fell into the River and yet by reason that the Archbishop shed many a teare at this accident and called upon God for helpe there was not one of them that perished Seated it is in a very pleasant place that bringeth forth Liquirice and skirworts in great plenty adorned also with faire buildings and hath to shew a stately Castle as a man shall see situate upon a rocke no lesse goodly to the eye than safe for the defence well fortified with ditches and bulwarkes Hildebert Lacy a Norman unto whom king William the First after that Alricke the Saxon was thrust out had given this Towne with the land about it first built this Castle But Henry Lacy his nephew came into the field at the battaile of Trenchbrey I speake out of the Pleas against King Henry the First wherefore hee was disseised of the Barony of Pontfract and the King gave the Honour to Wido de Lavall who held it untill King Stephens dayes at which time the said Henry made an entry into the Barony and by mediation of the King compounded with Wido for an hundred and fifty pounds This Henry had a sonne named Robert who having no issue left Albreda Lizours his sister by the mothers side and not by the father to bee his heire because hee had none other so neere in bloud unto him whereby shee after Roberts death kept both inheritances in her hand namely of her brother Lacies and her father Lizours And these be the very words of the booke of the Monastery of Stanlow This Albreda was marryed to Richard Fitz Eustach Constable of Chester whose Heires assumed unto them the name of Lacies and flourished under the title of Earles of Lincolne By a daughter of the last of these Lacies this goodly inheritance by a deede of conveyance was devolved in the end to the Earles of Lancaster who enlarged the Castle very much and Queene Elizabeth likewise bestowed great cost in repairing it and beganne to build a faire Chappell This place hath beene infamous for the murder and bloudshed of Princes For Thomas Earle of Lancaster the first of Lancastrian House that in right of his wife possessed it stained and embrewed the same with his owne bloud For King Edward the Second to free himselfe from rebellion and contempt shewed upon him a good example of wholsome severity and beheaded him heere Whom notwithstanding standing the common people enrolled in the Beadroll of Saints Heere also was that Richard the Second King of England whom King Henry the Fourth deposed from his Kingdome with hunger cold and strange kindes of torments most wickedly made away And heere King Richard the
of the West Saxons built a Castle which Desburgia his wife raced and laid even with the ground after shee had expelled from thence Eadbritch King of the South-Saxons who now had made himselfe Lord thereof and used it as a bridle to keepe the countrey under that he had subdued When Edward the Confessour was King it paid tribute as wee find in the Kings Survey-Booke of England after the rate of fiftie and foure Hides and had in it threescore and three Burgers The Bishop of Winchester held it as Lord and his courts or Pleas were kept heere thrice in the yeere And these Customes appertaine to Taunton Burgherists Theeves Breach of peace hannifare pence of the Hundred and pence of Saint Peter de Circieto thrice in the yeere to hold the Bishops Pleas without warning to goe forth to warfare with the Bishops men The Countrey heere most delectable on every side with greene medowes flourishing with pleasant Gardens and Orchards and replenished with faire Mannour houses wonderfully contenteth the eyes of the beholders And among these houses those of greatest note are these Orchard which had in times past Lords of that name from whom in right of Inheritance it descended unto the Portmans men of Knights degree Hach Beauchamp and Cory Mallet bearing those additions of their Lords For this was the seat of the Mallets that came of the Norman race and from them in short time it fell by the female heire to the Pointzes From among whom in the raigne of Edward the First Hugh was ranged in the rank of Parliament Barons and out of that familie some remaine at this day of great reputation and Knights in their Countrey As for those Beauchamps or de Bello Campo they flourished in high places of honour from the time of King Henrie the Second but especially since that Cecilie de Fortibus which derived her pedigree from the Earles de Ferrarijs and that great Marshall of England William Earle of Pembroke matched in marriage with this familie But in the raigne of Edward the Third the whole inheritance was by the sisters divided betweene Roger de S. Mauro or Seimore I. Meries men of ancient descent and great alliance And hereupon it was that King Henrie the Eight when he had wedded Iane Seimor mother to King Edward the Sixth bestowed upon Edward Seimor her brother the titles of Vicount Beauchamp and Earle of Hertfort whom King Edward the Sixth afterwards honoured first wiâ—h the name of Lord and Baron Seimor to bee annexed to his other titles lest as the King saith in the Patent the name of his mothers familie should bee overshadowed with any other stile and yet afterward created him Duke of Sommerset As you goe from thence where Thone windeth himselfe into Parret it maketh a pretty Iland betweene two rivers called in times past Aethelingey that is The Isle of Nobles now commonly knowen by the name of Athelney a place no lesse famous among us for King Alfreds shrowding himselfe therein what time as the Danes now had brought all into broile then those Marishes of Minturny among the Italians wherein Marius lurked and lay hidden For touching that King an ancient Poet wrote thus Mixta dolori Gaudia semper erant spes semper mixta timori Si modó victor erat ad crastiná bella pavebat Si modó victus erat ad crastina bella parabat Cui vestes sudore jugi cui sica cruore Tincta jugi quantum sit onus regnare probarunt With dolour great his joyes were mixt his hope was joyn'd with dread If now he victour were next day of warres he stood affraid If vanquisht now the morrow next forthwith hee thought it good For to prepare for warre his sword was aye begoard in blood His garments eke with painfull sweat were evermore bestain'd Which well did shew what burden great he bare while that he raign'd And in truth this Isle afforded him a very fit shrowding corner for that by reason of waters partly standing there in plashes and partly resorting reflowing thither which Asserius termed Gronnas Latinizing a Saxon word there is in manner no accesse into it It had sometime a bridge betweene two castles built by Aelfred and a very large grove of Alders full of goates and wild beasts but of firme ground scarce two acres in breadth on which as saith William of Malmesbury whose words these are and not mine hee founded a little Monasterie the whole frame whereof hanged upon foure maine posts pitched fast in the ground with foure round isles of Sphaerick work contrived and brought round about the same Not far from this Isle Parret having received the said river runneth alone swelling with certaine sandy shelfes sometime in his channell by the Hundred of N. Pederton anciently acknowledging the Bluets to have beene Lords thereof who are thought to have brought that name from Bluet in litle Britaine Heere it taketh into him an other river from East to beare him company which openeth it self neere Castle Cary which William Lovell Lord thereof held against K. Stephen in the behalfe of Mawd the Empresse right inheritrix of the Crown of England whose issue male failing in the time of King Edward the Third by heire female it came to Nicolas de S. Maure a Baron of a distinct familie from that which was a few lines before mentioned and shortly after about the time of Henrie the Fift by an heire female againe to the Lord Zouches of Harringworth as a moitie of the lands of Lord Zouch of Ashby de la Zouch came before by coheires to the house of this S. Maures But when the Lord Zouch was attainted by K. Henrie the Seventh for assisting King Richard the Third this Castle was given by the K. to Robert Willoughby Lord Brooke as his lands at Bridge-water to the Lord Daubency and then hee was restored in bloud From Castle Cary this water passeth by Lites-Cary to bee remembred in respect of the late owner Thomas Lyte a gentleman studious of all good knowledge and so to Somerton the Shire towne in times past as which gave the name thereto A Castle it had of the West Saxon Kings which Ethelbald King of Mercia forcing a breach through the wals sieged and kept But now time hath gotten the mastry of it so as that there is no apparance at all thereof and the very Towne it selfe would have much a doe to keepe that name were it not for a Faire of oxen and other beasts which is kept there from Palme-Sunday untill the midst of Iune with much resort of people for that the countrimen all there about are very great Grasiers breeders and feeders of cattell No sooner hath Parret entertained this river but he speeds him apace toward a great and populous towne commonly called Bridg-water and is thought to have taken that name of the Bridge and water there but the old records and evidences gaine say this opinion wherein it is
over-head right daintily which William Knight the Bishop and Wolman the Deane founded for the use of people resorting thither to the Market Thus much of the East-part of the towne In the West-side thereof I have seene the parish Church of Saint Cuthberts next unto which standeth an Hospitall founded by Nicolas Burwith Bishop for foure and twentie poore people Out of those Mendip or Mine-hils springeth the River Frome which running East-ward by Cole-pits before it hath held on a long course that way turneth North-ward and serveth in stead of a bound confining this shire and Gloceste-shire and passeth hard under Farley a Castle not long since of the Lord Hungerfords scituate upon a Rocke where Humfrey Bohun built sometime a Monkerie not farre from Philips Norton a greate Market-towne which tooke the name of a Church consecrate to Saint Philip. Lower than it Selwood whereof I spake erewhile spreadeth long and large a wood standing well and thicke of trees whereof the country round about adjoyning was named as Ethelward mine Author writeth Selwoodshire and a towne steepely seated thereby is yet called Frome Selwood which gaineth very much by the trade of cloathing From which Westward not full two miles there sheweth it selfe a Castle little though it be yet fine and trim consisting of foure round Turrets which being built by the Delamares and named thereupon Monney de la Mare from them came by way of inheritance to the Powlets And not farre from thence is Witham where King Henry the Third erected a Nunnerie which afterward was the first house and as it were mother to the Carthusians or Charter-house Monks in England as Hinton not far off neere Farley Castle was the second And now by this time Frome grown bigger by some rivelets issuing out of this wood joyneth with the noble river Avon which holding on a crooked course runneth anone to that ancient Citie which of the hote Bathes Ptolomee called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Hote waters Antoninus AQVAE SOLIS that is The waters of the Sunne the Britaines Yr ennaint Twymin and Caer Badon the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and of the concourse thither of diseased people Akmanchester that is The Citie of sickely folke Stephanus nameth it Badiza we at this day Bath and the Latinists commonly Bathonia Seated it is low in a plaine and the same not great environed round about with hills almost all of one height out of which certaine rilles of fresh river waters continually descend into the Citie to the great commoditie of the Citizens Within the Citie it selfe there bubble boile up three springs of hote water of a blewish or sea-colour sending up from them thin vapours and a kind of a strong sent withall by reason that the water is drilled and strained through veines of Brimstone and a clammy kind of earth called Bitumen Which springs are very medicinable and of great vertue to cure bodies over-charged and benummed as it were with corrupt humours For by their heat they procure sweat and subdue the rebellious stubbornnesse of the said humors Yet are not they wholesome at all houres For from eight of the clocke in the forenoone unto three after noone they are in manner skalding hote and doe worke and being thus troubled cast up from the bottome certaine filth during which time they are shut neither may any body goe into them untill by their sluces they clense themselves and rid away that filthinesse Of these three The Crosse Bath so called of a crosse standing upright in old time in the midst of it is of a very mild and temperate warmth and hath twelve seates of stone about the brinke or border thereof and is enclosed within a wall The second distant from this not fully 200. foot is much hotter whereupon it is termed Hote Bathe Adjoyning to these is a Spittle or Lazar house built by Reginald Bishop of Bath for the reliefe of poore diseased persons And those two are in the midst of a Street on the West-side of the Citie The third which is the greatest and after a sort in the very bosome and heart of the Citie is called the Kings Bath neere unto the Cathedrall Church walled also round about and fitted with 32. seates of arched worke wherein men and women may sit apart who when they enter in put upon their bodies linnen garments and have their guides Where the said Cathedrall Church now standeth there was in ancient time as the report goeth a Temple consecrated to Minerva Certes Solinus Polyhistor speaking no doubt of these hote Bathes saith thus In Britaine there are hot springs very daintily adorned and kept for mens use the patronesse of which fountaines is the Goddesse Minerva in whose Temple the perpetuall fire never turneth ashes and dead coales but when the fire beginneth to die it turnes into round masses of stone Howbeit Athenaeus writeth that all hote Bathes which naturally breake out of the bowels of the earth are sacred to Hercules And in very deede there is to bee seene in the walles of this Citie an ancient Image such as it is of Hercules grasping in his hand a Snake among other old monuments by the injurie of time now altogether defaced But that we may not contend about this matter let us grant if it be so thought good that Bathes were consecrated to Hercules and Minerva joyntly For the Greekes doe write that Pallas first ministred water unto Hercules for to bath him after he had atchieved his labours For my purpose it shall suffice if I be able to prove by the authoritie of Solinus who writeth that Pallas was the Patronesse of these Bathes this Citie to be the same which the Britans in their tongue called Caer Palladdur that is The Citie of Pallas-water or Vrbs Palladiae Aquae if a man turne it into Latine For the matter the name and signification doe most fitly agree The finding out of these Bathes our Fables attribute to the King of Britans Bleyden Cloyth that is Bleyden the Magician but with what probabilitie that I leave to others Plinie indeed affirmeth that the Britans in old time used the practice of magick with so great ceremonies that it seemed they taught it the Persians yet dare I not ascribe these Bathes to any art magicall Some of our writers when their minds were busied in other matters report Iulius Caesar to have beene the first finder of them But my opinion is that later it was ere the Romans had knowledge of them seeing Solinus is the first that hath made mention of them The English-Saxons about the 44. yeare after their comming into Britaine when they had broken league and covenant and kindled againe the coales of war which had already beene quenched besieged this Citie But when the warlike Arthur came upon them they tooke the hill named Mons Badâ—nicus where when couragiously a long while they had fought it out to the uttermost a great number of them
runs a long tract or chaine of hils yeilding plentie of pasture and forrage for sheepe The wool of which next unto that of Lemster and Coteswold is estemed best and in speciall request with Clothiers whereby there groweth to the Inhabitants much gaine and profit The North part is all over greene with meddows pastures and woods the South side lieth wholly in manner bedecked with cornefields enclosed where at each end the sea on the North-side doth so inbosome encroach within it selfe that it maketh almost two Islands and verily so the Islanders call them namely Fresh-water Isle which looketh West and Binbrige Isle Eastward In Bedas daies it was counted to containe a thousand and two hundred Hides now it reckoneth upon 36. townes villages and Castles which for Ecclesiasticall jurisdiction belong to the Bishop of Winchester and for civill government to the County of South-hanton The Inhabitants of this Isle were wont merrily to make their boast that their case was happier than all others because they had neither hooded monks nor cavilling Lawyers nor yet crafty foxes The places of greater name be these Newport the principall mercate towne of the whole Isle called in times past Medena and Novus Burgus de Meden that is The new Burgh of Meden whereof the whole country is divided into East Meden and West Meden an ordering as to their scituation East or West either way Cacres-brooke an old Castle so clepid and clipped short for White garesburg is in the very heart and midst of the Isle taking the name of Whitgar the Saxon of whom more heereafter and of late magnificently reedified by the meanes of the Captaine unto which Castle there belonged very many Knights Fees and above all other places it hath heere the glory for antiquitie Brading another mercate Towne Newton and Yarmouth anciently called Eremue which have their Majors and send Burgesses to the Parliament This Yarmouth and Sharpâ—ore have Castles in them which together with Worsleys fort or Blockehouse so named of a worshipfull familie defend the Sea-shore at the Northwest Just over against it scarcely two miles off standeth Hurst a fortification of South-Hamptonshire scituate upon a little necke of land lying into the Sea Quarre where was founded a Nunnerie in the yeare of our Lord 1131 Gods-Hill in which Iohn Worsley erected a Schoole for the training up of young wits West-Cowe and East-Cowe that is now ruinous both which King Henry the Eighth built at the very entrie of New port and concerning them Leland wrote in this wise Covae fulmineae duae coruscant Haec casum colit ille Solis ortum Vectam quà Neoportus intrat altam Two Cowes full opposite there stand At West and East in all mens sight Then flashen fire from either hand Where Newport entreth Isle of Wight Also on the North-East side Sandham Castle furnished as the rest with great ordnance Neither are there wanting for the defence of this Isle naturall fences For encircled it is with a continuall ridge and raunge as it were of craggy clifts there are under the waters likewise hidden stones and every where there lie against it bankes and rockes perilous for sailers but the most dangerous of all the rest are the Needles so called because they are so sharpe and the Shingles which stand forth against the West angle of the Isle as also the Owers and Mixon that lie before the East Besides these The Brambles which are Shelves and perilous for Sailers in the North-coast Moreover if there be any place that seemeth open and meete for a landing place the same by an old order and custome among them is piled with strong stakes driven and pitched deepe into the ground But verily this Isle is neither with these rockes nor with those fortresses above said so well fenced as with the very Inhabitants themselves who naturally being most warlike bold and adventurous are through the diligence and care of the Captaine of the Isle confirmed so by continuall exercise in strength and militarie discipline that they exactly know before hand what accidents of service soever may happen in warre namely with their peeces to shoot point-blanke and not misse the marke to keepe their rankes to march orderly and in ray to cast their squadrons if need be close into a ring or to display and spred the same at large to take paines to runne and ride to endure both Sunne and dust and fully to performe whatsoever warfarre doth require Of these souldiers thus trained the Isle it selfe is able to bring forth into the field 4000. and at the instant of all assaies appointed there bee three thousand more of most expert and practised servitours out of Hampshire and two thousand beside out of Wilshire to bee ever prest and in readinesse for the defence of the Isle And to the end that all hostile forces whatsoever might bee withstood more speedily and with greater facilitie the whole countrey is divided into eleven parts and every of them hath their severall Centoner as one would say Centurion their Vintons also leaders as it were of twenty their great pieces of Ordnance their Sentinels and warders Who keepe watch and ward at the Beacons standing on the higher grounds their Posts also or runners whom by an old name growne almost out of use they terme still Hoblers who presently give intelligence of all occurrents to the Captaine and Governour of the Isle The first that brought it in subjection to the Romans was Vespatian whiles he served as a private person under Claudius Caesar For thus writeth Suetonius of him Vnder the Emperour Claudius by speciall favour of Narcissus he was sent into Germanie as Lieutenant of a Legion and from thence being remooved into Britaine he fought thirtie battailes with the enemie Two most mightie nations and above twentie townes together with the Isle of Wight lying next to the said Britaine hee subdued under the conduct partly of A. Plautius a Consular Lieutenant and in part of Claudius himselfe For which service he received triumphall ornaments and in short space two sacerdotall dignities c. At this Isle also the navie of Allectus after he had usurped the Imperiall dignitie in Britaine lying in espiall and ambush awaited the Romans comming against him who notwithstanding by the happy meanes of a mist passed by their enemies undescried gat to land and set fire on their owne ships that there might bee no refuge for them to escape unto by flight Lord Cerdic was the first English-Saxon that subdued it and he granted it unto Stuffa and Whitgar who joyntly togither slew well-neare all the British Inhabitants for few there were of them remaining in Whitgaraburge a towne so called of his name and now by contraction shortned into Caresbroke After Wolpher King of the Mercians reduced the Isle of Wight under his obedience and assigned it over to Edelwalch King of the South-Saxons together with the province of the Menvari what time as hee became his Godfather and
puissance about the river Garumna and laying siege to Tolose with fortunate successe terrified not onely those of Province as farre as to Rhosne and the Alpes but also by raising fortresses subduing nations he made the princes of Spaine and France to quake for feare as if he had beene ever more at the point to set upon them all I will also if it please you adjoyne heereto a word or two concerning the same King out of Giraldus Combrensis From the Pyrenean mountaines saith hee unto the Westerne bounds and furthest limits of the North Ocean This our Alexander of the West hath stretched forth his arme As farre therefore as nature in these our parts hath enlarged the land so farre hath hee marched with Victories If the bounds of his expeditions were sought for sooner would the globe of earth faile than they end For where there is a valiant and courageous minde howsoever earth and land faile victories cannot faile well may there bee wanting matter of triumph but triumphs will never bee wanting How great an addition to his glorious titles and triumphs was Ireland with how great valour and praise-worthy prowesse pearced he through the very secrets and hidden places of the Ocean But lo heere an old verse of his death which briefely in one word containeth fully both all this and also the renowne of his sonne King Richard the first Mira cano Sol occubuit nox nulla sequuta est A wonder great the Sunne was set and night there followed none For so farre was King Richard his sonne from bringing darknesse with him that with the beames of his victories atchieved in Cypres and Syria he made our countrey of England most famous and renowned through the world But these are things without our Element Let us returne againe from persons to places This Monastery wherein that noble King Henrie the first was buried is now converted to bee the Kings house which hath adjoyning unto it a very goodly stable stored to the full with princelike and most generous steeds But as touching this place listen also to the Poet describing the Tamis as he passeth heereby Hinc videt exiguam Chawsey properatque videre Redingum nitidum texendis nobile pannis Hoc docet Aelfredi nostri victricia signa Begscegi caedem calcata cadavera Dani Vtque superfuso maduerunt sanguine campi Principis hîc Zephiro Cauroque parentibus ort Cornipides crebris implent binnitibus auras Et gyros ducunt gressus glomerantque superbos Dum cupiunt nostri Martis servire lupatis Haeccine sed pietas heu dira piacula primum Neustrius Henricus situs hîc inglorius urna Nunc jacet erectus tumulum novus advena quaerit Frustra nam regi tenues invidit arenas Auri sacra fames Regum metuenda sepulchris From hence he little Chawsey seeth and hastneth for to see Faire Reading towne a place of name where Cloth's ywoven be This shewes our Aelfrids victorie what time Begsceg was slaine With other Danes whose carcasses lay trampled on the plaine And how the fields ydrenched were with bloud upon them shed Where as the Prince in Stable now hath standing many a steed Of noblest kind that neigh and snort into the aire a lowd Tracing the ring and keeping pace that stately is and prowd Whiles they desire to learne with all in our warres for to serve But where alas is piety Such cursed deeds deserve Purged to be by sacrifice A King of Normans race Henry the first enterred heere now turn'd out of his place An out cast lies dishonoured Who seekes his tombe shall misse For Covetise envied that King the small mould which was his See see how Princes monuments it ransacks where it is Scarce halfe a mile from Reading betwixt most greene and flowring medowes the Kenet is coupled with the Tamis who now runneth with a broader streame by a small village called Sunning which a man would mervaile to have beene the See of eight Bishops who had this shire Wiltshire for their Diocesse yet our Histories report as much the same afterwards by Herman was translated to Shirburne and in the end to Salisburie unto which Bishopricke this place still belongeth Heereby falleth Ladden a small water into the Tamis and not farre off standeth Laurents Waltham where are to be seene the foote foundations of an old fort and divers Romane coines often times digged up and next to it Billingsbere the inhabitation of Sir Henry Nevill issued from the Lords Abergevenny From Sunning the Tamis passeth by Bistleham now called short Bisham at first a Lordship of the Knights Templars then of the Montacutes and amongst them William the first Earle of Salisburie of his familie founded a Priory wherein some say hee was buried Certes his wife the daughter of the Lord Grandison was buried there and in the Inscription of her tombe it was specified that her father was descended out of Burgundie cosin-german to the Emperour of Constantinople the King of Hungary and Duke of Baveire and brought into England by Edmund Earle of Lancaster Now is the possession of Sir Edward Hoby Knight of me especially to be observed whose singular kindnesse toward me the often consideration thereof shall keepe so fresh that it shall never vanish out of my remembrance Tamis having now left Bisham behind it fetcheth it selfe with a compasse about to a little towne named in the former ages Southe-alington afterward Maiden-hith and at this day Maindenhead of the superstitious worshipping of I wote not what British Maidens head one of those eleven thousand Virgins who as they returned from Rome into their country with Vrsula their leader suffered as Martyrs at Colein in Germanie under that scourge of God Attila Neither is this towne of any antiquity for no longer agoe then in our great Grandfathers daies there was a Ferry in a place somewhat higher at Babhams end But after they had built heere a bridge of timber piles it beganne to flourish with Innes and goe beyond her mother Bray hard by which notwithstanding is farre more ancient as having given name to the whole Hundred This parcell of the shire I have beene of opinion that the BIBROCI who yeelded themselves under Cesars protection inhabited in times past And why should I thinke otherwise The reliques of them remaine yet most evidently in the name For BIBRACTE in France is now also drawen shorter into Bray and not far from hence Caesar passed over the Tamis with his armie as I will shew in due place what time as the people of that small Canton put themselves to the devotion of Caesar. Certes If a man should hunt for these Bibroci elsewhere he should I beleeve hardly find them Within this Hundred of the Bibroci Windesore beareth a goodly shew in the Saxon tongue haply of the winding shore called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for so it is named downe in the Charter of King Edward the Confessour who in this
and worth the noting it is there is a vaine of potters earth highly commended and therefore the dearer sold for the making of those crucibles and small vessels which Gold-smiths use in melting their gold Nor farre from hence the cleare rivelet Wandle in Latin Vandalis so full of the best Trouts issueth forth from his head neare Cashalton and Wodcot where by a tuft of trees upon an hill-top there are to bee seene manifest signes of a pretty towne and diverse wels built of flint stones Concerning the populousnesse and wealth whereof the neighbour Inhabitants report very much This in my conceit was that Citie which Ptolomee called NOIOMAGVS and the Emperour Antonine NOVIOMAGVS Neither neede wee to seeke from else where proofe heereof but from the correspondencie of distance For as the old Itinerary noteth it is ten miles from London and twenty eight from Vagmiacj now Maidston Many a mile therefore went they out of the way that placed Noviomagus either at Buckingham or at Guildford This was a principall Citie of the REGNI not knowne to Marinus Tyrius a most ancient Geographer whom Ptolomee taking upon him to censure taxeth for that he had set NOVIOMAGVS of Britaine by Climate more North and by account of miles more South than London Wandle while it is yet small receiveth his first increase by a rill springing at Croidon in times past called Cradiden which standeth under the hils is very well known as well for the house of the Archbishops of Canterbury unto whom it hath belonged now this long time as for Char-coles which the townesmen make good chaffer of The inhabitants report that in old time there stood an house of the Kings in the West part of the towne neere unto Haling where the husbandmen dig up otherwhiles rubble stone which house the Archbishops having received it by gift from the King translated unto their owne neerer the river And neere unto this the right reverend father in God D. Iohn Whitgift Archbishop of Canterbury of most praise worthy Memory in his pious affection founded and endowed with living a very faire Hospitall for the reliefe of poore people and a schoole for the furtherance of learning As for that sudden swelling water or Bourne which the common people report to breake forth heere out of the ground presaging I wote not how either dearth of corne or the pestilence may seeme not worthy once the naming and yet the events sometime ensuing hath procured it credit Neere unto this place stands Beddington wherein is to be seene a very faire house beautified with a delightfull shew of right pleasant gardens and orchards by Sir Francis Carew Knight For the ancient seat it is of the Carews who being descended from the Carews of Moulesford of whom also are come the Carews of Devonshire have for a long time flourished in this country but especially since Sir Iames Carew matched in marriage with the daughter and one of the coheires of the Baron Hoo and Hastings To digresse a little from the river Eastward from Croidon standeth Addington now the habitation of Sir Oliff Leigh wherby is to be seene the ruble of a Castle of Sir Robert Agvilon and from him of the Lords Bardolph who held certaine lands here in fee by Serianty to find in the Kings kitchin at the Coronation one to make a dainty dish which they called Mapigernoun and Dilgerunt What that was I leave to the skilfull in ancient Cookerie and returne to the river Wandle increased with Croidon water passing by Morden divideth it selfe to water Merton in the old English tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 situate in a most fruitfull soile A towne made famous in times past by the death of Kinulph King of the West Saxons who was by a Clito that is a Prince of the bloud slaine here in a small cottage of an harlot upon whom hee was enamoured and Clito himself by K. Kinulphs followers immediately stabbed suffered condigne punishment for his disloyall treachery Now it sheweth onely the ruines of a Monastery that K. Henry the First founded for blacke Chanons by the procurement of Gilbert High Sheriffe of Surry in the yeare 1127. which was famous for the Statute of Merton enacted here in the 21. of King Henrie the Third and also for Water de Merton founder of Merton Colledge in Oxford borne and bred heere Above Merton farther from the river is seated Wibandune now commonly Wimbledon where when over much prosperitie had hatched civill broiles among the English Saxons after the British warres were now ceased Ethelbert King of Kent struck up the first Alarme of civill warre against his owne country men but Ceaulin King of the West Saxons discomfited him in this place with a mightie great slaughter and losse of his men having slaine his principall leaders Oslan and Kneben of whom peradventure that entrenched rampier or fort which wee have heere seene of a round forme is called Bensbury for But now the greatest ornament of this place is that goodly house so beautifull for building and so delectable for faire prospect and right pleasant gardens which Sir Thomas Cecill Knight sonne to that most prudent Counsellour of State Lord Burleygh built in the yeare 1588. when the Spanish Armado made saile upon the coast of England Wandle now after a few miles entreth the Tamis when it hath given name to Wandlesworth betweene Putney the native soile of Thomas Cromwell one of the flowting-stocks of fortune and Batersey sometimes in the Saxon tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in latine Patricii Insula that is Patrickes Isle and which now we seeke an house of the Kings termed Kennington whereunto the Kings of England in old time were wont to retire themselves but now finde wee neither the name nor the rammell thereof Then is there Lambith or Lomehith that is to say a Lomy or clayish rode or hith famous in former times for the death of Canutus the Hardie King of England who there amid his cups yielded up his vitall breath For hee beeing given wholly to banqueting and feasting caused royall dinners foure times every day as Henry of Huntingdon reporteth to be served up for all his court choosing rather to have his invited guests to send away whole dishes untouched than other commers unbidden to call for more viands to be upon his table But now this place is of the greater name and more frequented by reason of the Archbishop of Canterburie his palace For Baldwine Archbishop of Canterbury about the yeare of Christ 1183. having made an exchange with the Bishop of Rochester purchased a manour in this place wherein hee began to build a palace for himselfe and his successours which they by little and little encreased But when they went about to erect a collegiat Church heere also good GOD what posting was there to Rome with complaints and appeales from the Monkes of Canterburie how many fiery thunderbolts
by his onely daughter to the Earles of Stafford who were afterward Dukes of Buckingham from them by attainder to the Crowne It hath in latter ages beene beholden to Sir Andrew Iude of London for a faire free-Schoole and to Iohn Wilford for a causey toward London Three miles directly South from hence in the very limit of Sussex and neere Frant I saw in a white-sandy ground divers vastie craggie stones of strange formes whereof two of the greatest stand so close together and yet severed with so straight a line as you would thinke they had beene sawed asunder and Nature when she reared these might seeme sportingly to have thought of a Sea But to returne to the River From Tunbridge Medway passeth by Haudelo from whence came that Iohn Haudelo who happily marrying the heire of the Lord Burnell had issue by her a sonne who was called Nicholas summoned to Parliament among the Barons by the name of Burnell Then Medway increased with another water called Twist which twisteth about and insulateth a large plot of good ground runneth on not farre from Mereworth where stands a faire Castle like house which from the Earles of Arundell came unto the Nevils Lords of Abergevennie and Le Despencer whose heire in the right line is Marie Ladie Fane unto whom and her heires King Iames in the first Parliament that he held restored gave and granted c. the name stile title honour and dignitie of Baronesse le Despencer that her heires successively should be Barons le Despencer for ever Now by this time Medway having received a rivelet that looseth it selfe under ground and riseth againe at Loose serving thirteene fulling-mills hastneth to Maidstone which seeing the Saxons called it Medwegston 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 I beleeve verily it is the same VAGNIACAE which Antonine the Emperor mentioneth and Ninnius in his Catalogue of cities calleth corruply Caer Megwad for Medwag Neither verily doth the account of distance disagree From Noviomagus one way and Durobrovis another whereof I shall treat anone Under the latter Emperours as is to be seene in Peutegerus his table lately set out by M. Velserus it is named MADVS Thus as yeeres by litlte and little turne about so names likewise by little and little become changed A large faire and sweet towne this is and populous for the faire stone bridge it hath been beholding to the Archbishops of Canterbury Among whom to grace this place at the confluence of the waters Boniface of Savoy built a a small Colledge Iohn Vfford raised a palace for himselfe and successors which Simon Islip encreased and betweene them which it standeth in plight William Courtney erected a faire Collegiat Church in which he so great a Prelate and so high borne lieth lowly entombed One of the two common Gaoles or prisons of the whole County is here appointed And it hath beene endowed with sundrie priviledges by King Edward the sixt incorporated by the name of Major and Iurates all which in short time they lost by favouring rebels But Queene Elizabeth amply restored them and their Major whereas anciently they had a Portgreve for their head Magistrate This I note because this Greve is an ancient Saxon word and as yet among the Germans signifieth a Ruler as Markegrave Reingrave Landgrave c. Here a little beneath Maidstone Eastward a prety rivelet joyneth with Medway springing first at Leneham which towne by probable conjecture is the very same that Antonine the Emperour calleth DVROLENVM written amisse in some copies DVROLEVUM For Durolenum in the British language is as much to say as The water Lenum And besides the remaines of the name the distance also from DVROVENVM and DVROBROVIS proveth this to be Durolenum to say nothing of the scituation therof neere unto that high rode way of the Romans which in old time as Higden of Chester doth write led from Dover through the midst of Kent Hard by at Bocton Malherb hath dwelt a long time the family of the Wottons out of which in our remembrance flourished both Nicolas Wotton Doct. of the lawes who being of the Privy counsell to K. Henry the Eight K. Edward the sixth Q. Mary and Q. Elizabeth sent in Embassage nine times to forreine Princes and thrice chosen a Committè about peace between the English French and Scottish lived a goodly time and ran a long race in this life with great commendation of piety and wisedome and also Sir Edward Wotton whom for his approved wisedome in waightie affaires Q. Elizabeth made Controller of her house and K. Iames created Baron Wotton of Merlay Here under is Vlcomb anciently a mansiō of the family De sancto Leodegario corruptly called Sentleger Sellenger Motinden where Sir R. Rockesly descended from Kriol and Crevecur built a house who held lands at Seaton by serjeantie to be Vantrarius Regis when the K. goeth into Gascoin donec perusus fuerit pari solutarum pretii 4. d. which as they that understand Law Latin for I do not translate that he should be the Kings fore-foot-man until he had worn out a paire of shooes prized 4. d. Neither hath this river any other memorable thing nere to it but Leeds Castle built by the noble Crevequers who in ancient charters are named de Crevequer De crepito corde afterwards it was the unfortunate seat of Bartholomew L. Baldismer who perfidiously fortified it against K. EDVVARD the second who had freely given it him and after that payed the due price of his disloyaltie upon the gallowes The whole matter you may reade here if you list out of a briefe historie penned by Thomas de la More a gentleman that lived at the same time and which of late I did publish in print In the yeare 1521. Queene Isabel came to the Castle of Leeds about the feast of Saint Michael minding there to lodge all night but was not permitted to enter in The King offended hereat as taking it to be done in contempt of him called certaine of the neighbour inhabitants out of Essex and London and commanded them to lay siege unto the Castle Now there held the Castle at that time Bartholomew de Baldismer who having left therein his wife and sonnes was gone himselfe with the rest of the Barons to overthrow the Hughs de Spencer Meane-while when they that were inclosed within despaired of their lives the Barons with their associats came as farre as Kingston and by the mediation of the Bishops of Canterbury and London together with the Earle of Pembroch requested that the King would remove his siege promising to deliver up the Castle into the Kings hand after the next Parliament But the King considering well that the besieged could not long hold out nor make resistance being highly displeased angred at their cōtumacy would not give eare to the Barons petitions And when they had turned their journey another way hee afterward forced the Castle with no
deliver up into his hands this Castle together with the well what time as he aspired to the Kingdome and after hee had settled his estate and affaires at London thought it good before all other things to fortifie this peece and to assigne faire lands in Kent unto Gentlemen to bee held in Castle-guard with this condition to be in readinesse with certaine numbers of men for defence of the same which service notwithstanding at this day is redeemed with a yearely paiment of money For when Sir Hubert de Burgh was Constable of this Castle to use the words of an old writer he weighed with himselfe that it was not safe for the Castle to have every moneth new warders for the Castle guard procured by the assent of the King and all that held of that Castle that every one should send for the ward of one moneth tenne shillings and that therewith certaine men elected and sworne as well horse as foote should be waged for to gard the Castle It is written that Phillip surnamed Augustus King of France when Lewis his sonne went about to gaine the Crowne of England had wonne certaine Cities and Forts and could not get this being manfully defended by the said Sir Hubert de Burgh said thus Verily my sonne hath not one foote of land in England untill he be Master of Dover Castle as beeing in very deed the strongest hold of all England and most commodious for the French Vpon the other cliffe which standeth over against it and beareth up his head in manner even with it are extant the remaines of a very ancient building One I know not upon what reason induced said it was Caesars Altar But Iohn Twin of Canterbury a learned old man who in his youth saw a great part thereof standing whole and entire assured me that it had beene a Watch-towre to give night light and direction to ships Like as there stood another opposite unto it at Bologne in France erected thereby the Romans and long after reedified by Charles the Great as Regino witnesseth in whom Phanum for Pharum is falsly read which at this day the French terme Tour de Order and the English The old man of Bullen Vnder this cliffe Henry the Eighth in our fathers daies with exceeding labour and 63000. pounds charges by pitching huge posts fast within the very sea and the same bound together with yron worke and heaping thereupon a deale of timber and stones brought up a mightie Pile which we call The Peere wherein the ships might more safely ride But the furious violence of the raging Ocean soone overcame the laudable endeavour of that puissant Prince and so the frame of this worke beaten continually upon with the waves became dis-joyned For the repaire whereof Queene Elizabeth laid out a great summe of money and the Authoritie of Parliament imposed upon every English ship that carry forth or bring in merchandise a certaine toll upon Tonneage for certaine yeares This Sea coast of Britaine is seperated from the Continent of Europe by a frete or streight where as some suppose the Seas brake in and made way betweene the lands Solinus calleth it Fretum Gallicum Tacitus and Ammianus Macellinus Fretum Oceani and Oceanum Fretalem Gratius the Poet Freta Morinum dubio refluentia ponto The narrow Seas on Bollen-coast that keepe uncertaine tides They of the Netherlands call it Dehofden of the two heads or promontories we the Narrow-sea and The strait of Calais as the Frenchmen Pas de Callais For this is the place as saith a Poet of our time gemini quà janua ponti Faucibus angustis latèque frementibus undis Gallorum Anglorumque vetat concurrere terras Where current of two seas In gullet streight wherein throughout their billowes rage and fret Keepes France and England so a part as though they never met The narrow sea as Marcellinus truly writeth swelleth at every tide with terrible high flouds and againe at the ebbe becommeth as flat as a plaine field if it be not raised with winds and counter seas betweene two risings of the moone it floweth twice and ebbeth as oft For as the Moone ascendeth toward the Meridian and is set againe under the Horizon in the just opposite point the Ocean heere swelleth mightily and the huge billowes rush upon the shores with so great a noise that the Poet might well say Rhutupináque littora fervent And Rhutup shore doth boile and billow and D. Paulinus where he speaketh of the County of Bulloigne which he termeth the utmost skirt of the world not without cause used these words Oceanum barbaris fluctibus frementem that is The Ocean raging and roaring with barbarous billowes Heere might arise a question beseeming a learned man that hath wit and time at will whether where this narrow sea runneth between France and Britaine now there was a narrow banke or necke of land that in times past conjoyned these regions and afterwards being broken either by the generall deluge or by rushing in of the waves or else by occasion of some earth-quake did let in the waters to make a through passage Verily as no man makes doubt that the face of the whole earth hath beene altered partly by the said deluge and partly by long continuance of time and other causes as also that Ilands by earthquakes or the shrinking back of waters were laid and joyned unto firme lands so most certainly it appeareth by authors of best credite that Ilands by reason of earthquakes and the breaking in of waters were severed disjoyned and rent from the Continent Whereupon Pythagoras in Ovid saith thus Vidi ego quod quondam fuerat solidissima tellus Esse fretum vidi factas ex aequore terras My selfe have seene maine ground sometime turned into sea and sand And seene I have againe the Sea became maine setled land Strabo gathering of things to come by those that are past concluded that such Isthmi neckes or narrow bankes of land both have beene and shall bee wrought and pierced through You see saith Seneca whole regions violently removed from their places and now to lie beyond the Sea which lay before bounding upon it and hard by You see there is separation made both of Countries and nations when as some part of nature is provoked of it selfe or when the mighty wind beateth strongly upon some sea the force whereof as in generall is wonderfull For although it rage but in part yet it is of the universall power that so it rageth Thus hath the sea rent Spaine from the Continent of Africke Thus by Deucalions floud so much spoken of by the greatest Poets was Sicilie out from Italy And hereupon Virgil wrote thus Haec loca vi quondam vasta convulsa ruinâ Tantum aevi longinqua valet mutare vetustas Dissiluisse ferunt cùm protinùs utraque tellus Vna foret venit medio vi pontus undis Hesperium Siculo latus abscidit arvaque urbes Littore diductas angusto interluit aestu
This Hubert was a man who unfainedly loved his Countrie amidst the stormes of frowning Fortune performed all duties to the utmost that his Countrey could require of a right good patriot Yet at length he fell in disgrace and was dispoyled of his dignities whereby this title slept and lay as dead untill the time of King Edward the Second Who bestowed it upon his younger brother Edmund of Woodstocke who being Tutor of his nephew Edward the Third falling into the tempest of false injurious and malignant envie was beheaded for that he never dissembled his naturall brotherly affection toward his brother deposed and went about when hee was God wot murthered before not knowing so much to enlarge him out of prison perswaded thereunto by such as covertly practised his destruction Hee had two sonnes Edmund and Iohn who were restored by Parliament to bloud and land shortly after And with all it was inacted that no Peere of the land or other that procured the death of the said Earle should bee empeached therefore than Mortimer Earle of March Sir Simon Beresford Iohn Matravers Baious and Iohn Devoroil So these his two sonnes succeeded in order and when they were both dead without issue their sister Ioane who survived them for her lovely beautie called The Faire maid of Kent brought this honour unto the house of the Hollands For Sir Thomas Holland her husband was stiled Earle of Kent and shee after married by dispensation to the Black Prince heire to him King Richard the Second Her sonne Sir Thomas Holland succeeded in that honourable title who died in the twentieth yeare of King Richard the Second Him againe there succeeded his two sonnes Thomas and Edmund Thomas who also was created Duke of Surry and forthwith for complotting a conspiracie against King Henry the Fourth lost his head leaving no child Edmunds his brother being Lord High Admirall of England was wounded at the assault of Saint Brieu in little Britan and died thereof in the yeare of Salvation 1408. leaving likewise no issue Now when this dignitie was expired in this family of the Hollands their glasse being runne out and the Patrimony parted among Edmund sisters King Edward the Fourth honoured with the title of the Earldome of Kent First Sir William Nevill Lord Fauconberg and after his death Edmund Lord Grey of Ruthin Hastings and Weisford and who had to succeed him George his sonne Hee of Anne Widevile his first wife begat Richard Earle of Kent who having wasted his inheritance ended therewith his daies issuelesse 1523. But the said George by his second wife Katherine daughter to William Herbert Earle of Pembrooke was father of Sir Henry Grey of Wrest knight whose grand-sonne Reginald by his sonne Henrie Queene Elizabeth in the yeare 1571. advanced to the Earledom of Kent And after his decease without issue his brother Henrie succeeded a right honourable personage and endued with the ornaments of true nobility This province hath parishes 398. DOBVNI HItherto we have walked over all those Countries that lie betweene the British Ocean of the one side and the Severne sea and river Thames on the other Now according to the order which wee have begun let us survey the rest throughout and passing over the said river returne to the head of Thames and the salt water of Severne and there view the DOBVNI who in ancient times inhabited those parts which now are termed Oxford-shire and Glocester-shire This their name I verily suppose came of Duffen a British word because the places where they planted themselves were for the most part low and lying under the hils whereupon the name became common to them all and verily from such a kind of site Bathieia in Troas Catabathmos in Africk and Deep-Dale in Britan tooke their names I am the more easily induced to believe this because I see that Dio in the very same signification hath named certaine people BODVNNI if the letters be not misplaced For Bodo or BODVN as Plinie saith in the ancient French tongue which I have proved before was the same that in the British language betokeneth Deepe Hence was it that the City Bodincomagus as he writeth became so called for that it stood where the river Po was deepest hence had the people Bodiontij that name who inhabited a deepe vale by the Lake of Lozanne and Geneva now called Val de Fontenay to say nothing of Bodotria the deepest Frith in all Britan. Concerning these Bodunj I have found in all my reading no matter of great antiquity save only that A. Plautius sent as Propraetor by Claudius into Britan received part of them upon their submission into his protection to wit those that were under Cattuellani for they held the region bordering upon them and as Dio hath recorded about the forty and foure yeare after Christ was borne placed a garrison over them But when the English Saxons reigned in Britan and the name of Dobuni was worne out some of these as also the people dwelling round about them were by a new English Saxons name called Wiccij but whereupon I dare scarce venture to guesse without craving leave of the Reader Yet if Wic in the Saxons tongue soundeth as much as the creeke or reach of a river and the Viguones a nation in Germanie are so called because they dwell neere unto the creekes or baies of the Sea and of rivers for so doth Beatus Rhenanus constantly affirme It will bee no absurditie if I derive our Wiccii from thence who inhabited round about the mouth of Severne which is very full of such Coves and small creekes and reaches GLOCESTRLAE Comitatus olim sedes DOBVNORUM GLOCESTER-SHIRE GLocester-shire in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which was the chiefe seat of the Dobuni on the West-side butteth upon on Monmouth-shire and Hereford-shire on the North upon Worcester-shire on the East upon Warwick-shire Oxford-shire and Barck-shire on the South upon Wilt-shire and Somerset-shire both A pleasant countrey and a fruitfull stretching out in length from North-east unto South-west The part that lyeth more East-ward rising up in height with hils and wolds is called Cotteswold the middle part settleth downe low to a most fertile plaine and is watered with Severne that noble river which doth infuse life as it were into the soile That part which bendeth more Westward on the further side of Severne is all over be spread with woods But what meane I to busie my selfe herein William of Malmesbury will ease mee of this labour who fully gives high commendations to this countrey Have therefore what he writeth in his booke of Bishop The countrey saith he is called of the principall Citie The vale of Glocester the ground throughout yieldeth plentie of corne and bringeth forth abundance of fruits the one through the naturall goodnesse onely of the ground the other through diligent manuring and tillage in so much as it would provoke the laziest body that is to take paines
Surrey Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon late Duke of Excester Iohn Montacute Earle of Salisbury Thomas de Spenser Earle of Glocester and others who being by him dispoiled of their honors and maligning his usurpation conspired to take away his life and here by the townesmen intercepted were some of them slaine outright and others beheaded The river Churne when it hath left Circester behinde him six miles neere to Dounamveny an ancient seate of the Hungerfords joyneth with Isis. For ISIS commonly called Ouse that it might bee by originall of Glocester-shire hath his head there and with lively springs floweth out of the South border of this shire nere unto Torleton an upland Village not farre from that famous Port-way called the Fosse This is that Isis which afterwards entertaineth Tame and by a compound word is called Tamisis Soveraigne as it were of all the Britain Rivers in Britaine of which a man may well and truely say as ancient Writers did of Euphrates in the East part of the World that it doth both Sow and Water the best part of Britaine The poeticall description of whose Source or first head I have heere put downe out of a Poem entituled The Marriage of Tame and Isis which whether you admit or omit it skilleth but little Lanigeros quà lata greges Cotswaldia pascit Crescit in colles faciles visura Dobunos Haud procul à Fossa longo spelunca recessu Cernitur abrupti surgente crepidine clivi Cujus inauratis resplendent limina tophis Atria tegit ebur tectúmque Gagate Britanno Emicat alterno solidantur pumice postes Materiam sed vincit opus cedúntque labori Artifici tophus pumex ebur atque Gagates Pingitur hinc vitrei moder atrix Cynthia regni Passibus obliquis volventia sydera lustrans Oceano tellus conjuncta marita marito Illinc caelatur fraternáque flumina Ganges Nilus Amazonius tractúsque binominis Istri Vicini Rheni sed his intermicat auro Vellere Phrixaeâ— dives redimitáque spicis Clara triumphatis erecta BRITANNIA Gallis c. Vndoso hîc solio residet regnator aquarum ISIS fluminea qui majestate verendus Caeruleo gremio â—esupinat prodigus urnam Intonsos crines iâ—vis arundine cinctus Cornua cana liquâ—nt fluitantia lumina lymphis Dispergunt lucem propexa in pectore barba Tota madet toto distillant corpore guttae Et salientis aquae prorumpunt undique venae Pisciculi liquidis penetralibus undique ludunt Plurimus cygnus niveis argenteus alis Pervolitat circum c. Where Cotswald spred abroad doth lie and feed faire flocks of sheepe And Dobunes for to see in downes ariseth nothing steepe Within a nouke along not much the Fosse and it betweene Just at the rising of a banke upright a Cave is seene Whereof the entry glistereth with soft stones richly guilt The Haull is seel'd with Ivory the roufe aloft ybuilt Of Geat the best that Britaine yeelds The pillers very strong With Pumish laid each other course are raised all along The stuffe full faire yet Art doth it surpasse and to the feate Of Artisan give place the gold stones Yv'ry and Geat Heere painted is the Moone that rules the Sea like Chrystall Glasse As she through rolling Signes above with traverse course doth passe And there againe enchaced are both land and Ocean wide Conjoyn'd as man and wife in one with Rivers great beside Like brethren all as Ganges rich strange Nilus Tanais Yea and the course of Ister large which double named is Of Rhene also a neighbour streame And heere bedight in gold Among them glitt'reth Britanny with riches manifold Of golden fleece a Coronet of Wheat-eares she doth weare And for her triumph over France her head aloft doth reare c. In waving Throne heere sits the King of waters all and some ISIS who in that Majestie which Rivers doth become All rev'rend from his watchet lap powr's forth his streame amaine With weed and reed his haires tuckt up that grow both long and plaine His hoary hornes distilling runne with water stand his eyes And shoot from them a lustre farre his kembed beard likewise Downe to the brest wet-through doth reach his body drops againe All over and on every side breakes out some water veine In secret watrish room 's within the little fishes play And many a silver Swan besides his white wings doth display And flutter round about c. As touching the Earles of Glocester some there be who have thrust upon us one William Fitz-Eustace for the first Earle who this was I have not yet found and I verily beleeve hee is yet unborne But that which I have found I will not conceale from the Reader About the comming in of the Normans wee reade that one Bithricke an English Saxon was Lord of Glocester whom Maud wife to William Conquerour upon a secret rankor and hatred conceived against him for his contempt of her beauty for Bithrick had before time refused to marry her troubled and molested most maliciously And when shee had at length cast him in Prison Robert Fitz-Haimon Lord of Corboile in Normandy was by the King endowed with his possessions who in a battaile having received a wound with the push of a pike upon the temples of his head had his wits crackt therewith and survived a good while after as a man bestraught and madde His daughter Mabil whom others name Sibill Robert the base sonne of King Henry the First by the intercession of his father obtained for his wife but not before he had made him Earle of Glocester This is hee who is called commonly by Writers The Consull of Glocester A man of an haughty valorous minde and undaunted heart as any one in that age and who being never dejected with any adversity wanne great praise for his fidelity and worthy exploits in the behalfe of his sister Maude the Empresse against Stephen then usurping the Crowne of England This honourable Title left he unto his son William who dejected with comfortlesse griefe when death had deprived him of his onely son and heire assured his estate with his eldest daughter to Iohn son to King Henry the Second with certaine provisoes for his other daughters Yet his three daughters brought this Earldome into as many families For Iohn when he had obtained the Kingdome repudiated her upon pretenses as well that she was barren as that they were within prohibited degrees of consanguinity and reserving the Castle of Bristow to himselfe after some time passed over his repudiated wife with the Honor of Glocester to Geffrey Mandevil son of Geffrey Fitz Peter Earle of Essex for 20000. markes who thus over-marrying himselfe was greatly impoverished and wounded in Tournament died soone after issuelesse and she being remarried to Hubert of Burgh died immediately Then K. Iohn upon an exchange granted the Earldome of Glocester to Almary Earle of Eureux son to the eldest daughter of the foresaid E.
Empresse gave it to Alberic Vere to assure him to her Party The infinite deale of ancient Coine daily gotten out of the ground there doth most plainly shew that this flourished in the Roman time in happy estate Yet have I light of no peeces more ancient than of Gallienus For the most were such as had upon them the Inscriptions of the Tetrici and the Victoriâ—i of Posthumus C. Carausius Constantine and the Emperours that followed him The Inhabitants affirme that Flavia Iulia Helena the mother of Constantine the Great was borne and bred there being the daughter of King Coel and in memory of the Crosse which shee found they give for their Armes a Crosse enragled betweene foure Crownes whence it is that our Necham as touching her and this place came out with these Verses although Apollo was not greatly his friend therein Effulsit sydus vitae Colcestria lumen Septem Climatibus lux radiosa dedit Sydus erat Constantinus decus imperiale Servijt huic flexo poplite Roma potens From out of thee O Cholchester there shone a Starre of life The raies whereof to Climats seven gave great and glorious light This Starre was Constantine the Great that noble Emperour Whom Rome in all obedience lay prostrate to adore Verily shee was a woman of life most holy and of invincible resolution and constancy in propagation of Christian Religion Whereupon in ancient Inscriptions she is every where named PIISSIMA and VENERABILIS AUGUSTA that is Most DEVOUT and VENERABLE EMPRESSE Beneath this where the River Coln runneth into the Sea standeth to be seene Saint Osithes a little Towne whose ancient name which was Chic is growne out of use by reason of Osith the Virgin of royall Parentage who being wholy devoted to the Service of God and stabbed there to death by the Danish Pirates was of our Ancestours honoured for a Saint and in her memoriall Richard Bishop of London about the yeare 1120. built a religious house of Regular Chanons But now it is the chiefe seate of the right honourable Lords Darcy called De Chich whom King Edward the Sixth advanced to the honour of Barons when hee created Sir Thomas Darcy his Counsellour Vice-chamberlaine and Captaine of the Guard Lord Darcy of Chich. From hence the Shore shooting out buncheth foorth as farre as to the Promontory Nesse which in the English-Saxon tongue is called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 What hath beene found in this place have heere out of the words and credit of Ralphe the Monke of Coggeshall who wrote 350. yeares agoe In King Richards time on the Sea-shore at a Village called Eadulphnesse were found two teeth of a certaine Giant of such a huge bignesse that two hundred such teeth as men have now a daies might bee cut out of them These saw I at Coggeshall quoth hee and not without wondering And such another Giantlike thing I wot not what as this was in the beginning of Queene Elizabeths Raigne digged up by R. Candish a Gentleman neere unto this place Neither doe I deny but there have beene men that for their huge bodies and firme strength were wonderous to behold whom God as S. Austin saith would have to live upon the earth thereby to teach us that neither beauty of body nor talnesse of stature are to bee counted simply good things seeing they bee common as well to Infidels as to the godly Yet may we very well thinke that which Suetonius hath written namely that the huge limmes of monstrous Sea-creatures else where and in this Kingdome also were commonly said and taken to have beene Giants bones From this Promontory the shore bendeth backe by little and little to the mouth of Stoure a place memorable for the battaile at Sea there fought betweene the English and Danes in the yeare 884. where now lyeth Harewich a most safe Road whence it hath the name For 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the English-Saxon tongue betokeneth a Station or a creeke where an Army encamped The Towne is not great but well peopled fortified by Art and Nature and made more sensible by Queene Elizabeth The salt water so creeketh about it that it almost insulateth it but thereby maketh the Springs so brackish that there is a defect of fresh water which they fetch some good way off This is the Stoure that running betweene Essex and Suffolke serveth as a bound to them both and on this side watereth nothing else but rich and fruitfull fields But not farre from the head thereof standeth Bumstead which the Family of Helion held by Barony from whom the Wentworths of Gosfield are descended And what way this Country looketh toward Cambridge-shire Barklow sheweth it selfe well knowne now by reason of foure little hils or Burries cast up by mans hand such as in old time were wont to be raised so some would have it as Tombes for Soldiers slaine whose Reliques were not easie to be found But when a fifth and sixth of them were not long since digged downe three troughes of stone were found and in them broken bones of men as I was informed The country people say that they were reared after a field there fought against the Danes For Dane-wort which with bloud-red berries commeth up heere plenteously they still call by no other name than Danes-bloud of the number of Danes that were there slaine verily beleeving that it blometh from their bloud A little below standeth upon a hill Walden of Saffron called Saffron Walden among the fields looking merily with most lovely Saffron A very good Mercat towne incorporated by King Edward the Sixth with a Treasurer two Chamberlaines and the Commonalty Famous in times past it was for a Castle of the Magnavilles which now is almost vanished out of sight and an Abbay adjoyning founded in a place very commodious in the yeare 1136. wherein the Magnavilles founders thereof were buryed Geffrey de Magnavilla was the first that gave light and life as it were to this place For Mawde the Empresse in these words out of her very Patent I copy them gave unto him Newport a good bigge Towne this is hard by For so much as hee was wont to pay that day whereon as her words are my father King Henry was alive and dead and to remove the Mercat from Newport into his Castle of Walden with all the customes that before time in better manner appertained to that Mercat to wit in Toll passage and other customes and that the waies of Newport neere unto the water banke bee directed streight according to the old custome into Walden upon the ground forfeited unto me and that the Mercat of Walden be kept upon Sunday and Thursday and that a Faire bee holden at Walden to begin on Whitsunday even and to last all the Whitson weeke And from that time by occasion of this Mercat for a great while it was called Cheping Walden Also as it is in the Booke of Walden Abbay hee
the said Geffrey appointed Walden to bee the principall place and seat of his honour and Earledome for him and his Successours The place where hee built the Abbay had plenty of waters which rising there continually doe runne and never faile Late it is ere the Sunne riseth and shineth there and with the soonest he doth set and carry away his light for that the hilles on both sides stand against it That place now they call Audley End of Sir Thomas Audley Lord Chancellour of England who changed the Abbay into his owne dwelling house This Thomas created by King Henry the Eighth Baron Audley of Walden left one sole daughter and heire Margaret second wife to Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke of whom hee begat Lord Thomas Lord William Lady Elizabeth and Lady Margaret The said Thomas employed in sundry Sea-services with commendation Queene Elizabeth summoned by Writ unto the High Court of Parliament among other Barons of the Realme by the name of Lord Howard of Walden And King James of late girded him with the sword of the Earldome of Suffolke and made him his Chamberlaine who in this place hath begunne a magnificent Building Neere to another house of his at Chesterford there was a Towne of farre greater antiquity hard by Icaldun in the very border of the Shire which now of the old Burgh the rusticall people use to call Burrow Banke where remaine the footings onely of a Towne lying in manner dead and the manifest tract of the very walles Yet will I not say that it was VILLA FAUSTINI which Antonine the Emperour placeth in this Tract and albeit Ingrata haud lati spatia detinet campi Sed rure vero barbaróque laetatur It takes not up large ground that yeelds no gaine But Country like is homely rude and plaine Yet dare not I once dreame that this is that Villa Faustini which in these and other Verses is by that pleasant and conceited Poet Martiall depaincted in his Epigrams The fieldes heere on every side as I said smell sweetly and smile pleasantly with Saffron a commodity brought into England in the time of King Edward the Third This in the moneth of â—uly every third yeere when the heads thereof have been plucked up and after twenty daies spitted or set againe under mould about the end of September they put foorth a whitish blew flower out of the middle whereof there hang three redde fillets of Saffron we call them Chives which are gathered very early in the morning before the Sunne rising and being plucked out of the flower are dried at a soft fire And so great increase commeth heereof that out of every acre of ground there are made fourescore or an hundred pounds weight of Saffron while it is moist which being dried yeeld some tweâ—â—y pound in weight And that which a man would marvell more at the ground which three yeeres together hath borne Saffron will beare aboundance of Barley eighteene yeeres together without any dunging or manuring and then againe beare Saffron as before if the inhabitants there have not misinformed me or I mis-conceived them More into the South is Clavering seated which King Henry the Second gave unto Sir Robert Fits-Roger from whom the family of Evers are issued The posterity of this Sir Roger after they had a long time taken their name of their fathers forename or Christen-name according to that ancient custome as Iohn Fitz-Robert Robert Fitz-Iohn c. afterwards by the commandement of King Edward the First they assumed from hence the name of Clavering But of these I am to speake in Northumberland Stansted Montfichet heere also putteth up the head which I will not passe over in silence considering it hath been the Baronie or habitation in times past of the family De Monte Fisco commonly Mont-fitchet who bare for their Armes three Cheverus Or in a shield Gueles and were reputed men of very great nobility But five of them flourished in right line and at the last three sisters were seized of the inheritance Margaret wife of Hugh De Boleber Aveline wedded to William De Fortibus Earle of Aumarle and Philip wife to Hugh Playz The posterity male of this Hugh flourished within the remembrance of our great Grandfathers and determined in a daughter married to Sir Iohn Howard Knight from whose daughter by Sir George Vere descended the Barons Latimer and the Wingfeldes And a little below is Haslingbury to bee seene the residence of the Barons Morley of whom I shall speake more in Norfolke And close to this standeth an ancient Fort or Military fense thereof named Walbery and more East-ward Barrington Hall where dwelleth that right ancient Family of the Barringtons which in the Raigne of King Stephen the Barons of Montficheâ— enriched with faire possessions and more ennobled their house in our fathers remembrance by matching with one of the daughters and coheires of Sir Henry Pole Lord Montacute sonne of Margaret Countesse of Salisbury descended of the Bloud Royall Neither is Hatfield Regis commonly called of a broad spread Oke Hatfield Brad-Oake to be omitted where Robert Vere Earle of Oxford built a Priory and there lieth entombed crosse-legged with a French inscription wherein he is noted to be first of that name Robert and third Earle of Oxford After the comming of the Normans Mande the Empresse Lady of the English for so shee stiled herselfe created Geffrey De Magnavilla usually called Mandevil son to William by Margaret daughter and heire of Eâ—do the Steward or Shewar the first Earle of Essex that shee might so by her benefits oblige unto her a man both mighty and martiall Who in those troublesome times under King Stephen despoiled of his estate made an end of his owne turbulent life with the sword And hee verily for his wicked deeds as I finde in an old Writer justly incurred the worlds censure and sentence of excommunication in which while hee stood hee was deadly wounded in the head at a little Towne called Burwell When he lay at the point of death ready to give his last gaspe there came by chance certaine Knights Templars who laid upon him the habit of their religious Profession signed with a red Crosse and afterwards when hee was full dead taking him up with them enclosed him within a Coffin of Lead and hunge him upon a tree in the Orchard of Old Temple at London For in a reverent awe of the Church they durst not bury him because he dyed excommunicated After him succeeded Geffry his sonne who was restored by Henry the Second to his fathers honours and Estate for him and his heires but he having no children left them to his brother William who by his wife was also Earle of Albemarle and dyed likewise in his greatest glory issuelesse Some yeares after K. John promoted Geffrey Fitz-Petre Justicer of England a wise and grave Personage unto this honour in consideration of a great masse of
is hard by In that Church which I said was unfinished there is a small Chappell but all of wood whereinto on either side at a narrow and little Doore are such admitted as come with their Devotions and Offerings Small light there is in it and none other in manner but by tapers or wax-candles yeelding a most dainty and pleasant smell Nay if you looke into it you would say it were the Habitation of heavenly Saints indeed so bright shining it is all over with pretious Stones with Gold and Silver But within the memory of our fathers when King Henry the Eighth had set his minde and eye both upon the Riches and Possessions of Churches all this vanished quite away Touching Walsingham I have nothing else to say more but that the Family of the Walsinghams Knights as they will have it that curiously search after Genealogies fetched first their name and Originall from hence Out of which house flourished that Sir Francis Walsingham Secretary unto Queene Elizabeth a man as of deepe insight so also of as rare and painfull industry in the weightiest affaires of the Realme But hard by it at Houghton flourished sometime the noble Family of the Neirfords who by matching in marriage with Parnel de Vallibus who had about Holt Cley and elsewhere a goodly Inheritance was greatly enriched But now let us looke backe againe to the Shore Neere unto Walsingham Westward upon the Sea side was that ancient Towne BRANNODUNUM where when the Saxons first molested Britaine with their Invasions The Dalmatian Horsemen lay in Garrison under the Lieutenant of the Saxon Shore But now it is a country Village reteining nought but the remaines of that name and shewing a Trench and Rampire the neighbour Inhabitants call it the Castle that containeth within it a plot of ground much about eight Acres and is named Brancaster where peeces of Romane money are many times gotten out of the earth Very commodiously was there a Garrison planted in this place for at S. Edmunds Chappell neere adjoyning and Hunstanton built by that holy King Saint Edmund the coast draweth backe into the South and so admitteth a larger creeke for the Sea to enter into lying open for Pirats into which many Rivers also doe void themselves As for Hunstanton it is to be remembred in this regard if there were nothing else for that it hath beene the Habitation of the Family of Le Strange Knights by degree ever since that in the Raigne of Edward the Second Iohn Baron Le Strange of Knockin gave the same unto Hamon his younger Brother The catching of Hawkes and the plentifull fishing the Ieat and Amber also found oftentimes in this Shore I wittingly omit seeing that there is great store of these things else where along this Tract Yet Sharnborn in this Coast is not to be omitted both for that Foelix the Burgundian who brought these East Englishmen to the Christian Faith and state of perpetuall Felicity built in this place the second Church of Christians in this Country for the first he founded at Babingley where he landed as also because it is verily thought and that by the faithfull testimony of old deeds and evidences that an old Englishman Lord of this place before the comming of the Normans by vertue of sentence given judicially in open Court by William Conquerour himselfe recovered this Lordship against Warren unto whom the Conquerour had given it Which argument they enforce hard who would prove that the said William entred upon the Possession of England by Covenant and agreement and not by right of warre and Conquest The foresaid Creeke or Bay our Country men call the Washes Ptolomee termed it AESTUARIUM METARIS haply for Malthraith by which name the Britains called the like Frithes and Armes of the Sea in other places neither doth it signifie among them any other thing than an Arme of the Sea uncertainly changing the chanell such as this is Upon this where the River Ouse striveth forcibly against the Ocean standeth Linne peradventure so named of the waters broad spreading For that doth Lhyn import in the British tongue A large Towne this is encompassed with a deepe trench and wals for the most part thereof divided by two small Rivers that have fifteene bridges or thereabout over them and although it be of no great antiquity and not long since called Linnum Episcopi that is Bishops Linne because it appertained to the Bishops of Norwich untill King Henry the Eighth his daies for it had beginning out of the ruines of an elder Towne which stood over against it in Marshland and is at this day called Old Linne and Linnum Regis that is Kings Linne yet by reason of the safe Haven which yeeldeth most easie accesse for the number also of Merchants there dwelling and thither resorting for the faire and the goodly houses the wealth also of the townesmen it is doubtlesse the principall towne of this Shire except Norwich onely It hath likewise most large franchises and immunities which the Inhabitants bought with their owne bloud of King John whiles they tooke part with him and defended his quarrell who ordained there a Major and delivered unto them his owne sword to be carried before him yea and gave unto them a silver cup all gilt which they still doe keep These their liberties being afterwards lost they redeemed not without bloud also of King Henry the Third when siding with him and serving under his Banner they fought an unfortunate battaile against the outlawed Lords in the Isle of Ely as the booke of Ely and Mathew Paris doe both joyntly witnesse Over against Linne on the farther side of the River lieth Mershland a little moist mersh country as the name implieth divided and parted every where with ditches trenches and furrowes to draine and draw the waters away a soile standing upon a very rich and fertile mould and breeding abundance of cattell in so much as that in a place commonly called Tilneysmeth there feed much about 30000. sheepe but so subject to the beating and overflowing of the roaring maine Sea which very often breaketh teareth and troubleth it so grievously that hardly it can be holden off with chargeable wals and workes The places of greater note in this Mershland are these Walpole which the Lord of the place gave in times past unto the Church of Ely together with his sonne whom he had made a Monke there Wigenhall the possession of I. Howard in the Raigne of Edward the First whose Posterity spred and became a most honorable and noble Family whereof I have already spoken Tilney whence in old time the stocke of the Tilneys Knights tooke name and Saint Maries the seat of the ancient race of the Carvils Now have we passed along all the Sea-coast As for the inner part of the Country there are also very many Townes toward the West side but because they bee of later
his Successours by abridging the number of Monkes for from threescore and tenne they brought them downe to forty flowed with riches and wealth in great abundance even unto our time and their festivall and solemne Holydayes they celebrated with so sumptuous provision and stately pompe that they wonne the prayse and prize from all the Abbaies in England whereupon a Poet also in that age wrote these verses not unproperly Pravisis aliis Eliensia festa videre Est quasi praevisa nocte videre diem See after others Ely feasts and surely thou wilt say That having seene the night before thou seest now the day The Church likewise which now began for age and long continuance to decay they built up by litle and litle and brought it to that ample statelinesse which now it hath For large it is high and faire but somewhat defaced by reason of Noblemens and Bishops tombes not without most shamefull indignity are broken downe And now in stead of that great Covent of Monks there are established a Deane Prebendaries a Grammar schoole wherein 24. children are maintained and taught Foure speciall things there are about this Church that the Common people talke much of The Lanterne on the very toppe thereof just over the Quire supported with eight pillars and raised upon them right artificially by Iohn Hothum the Bishop Vnder the Church towards the North standeth Saint Maries Chappell a singular fine peece of worke built by Simon Montacute Bishop On the South side there is an huge heape of earth cast up round of a great heigth which they call the Mount having had a wind mill upon it And lastly a Vine bearing fruit in great plenty which now is withered and gone These 4. a Monk of this place in times past knit up within this Rhyme Haec sunt Eliae Lanterna Capella Mariae Atque molendinum Nec non dans vinea vinum These things you may at Ely see The Lanterne Chapell of Saint Marie A Winde-mill mounted up on hie A Vine-yard yeelding Wine yeerely As for Ely it selfe it is a small Cittie nor greatly to bee counted of either for beauty or frequency and resort as having an unwholsome Aire by reason of the Fens round about although it be seated somewhat higher Neere to it is Downham where the Bishop hath his retyring House with a Parke neere to Downham is Cowney the ancientest seat of the Family surnamed for their habitation heere L'isle and De Insula and first planted here by Nigellus the second Bishop of Ely their Allies in the time of King Henry the First as is set downe in a Lieger Booke of Ely Chateries or Cheaterich is not farre hence Westward were Alwena a devout woman founded a Nunnery upon a coppid ground encompassed with Fens while her husband founded Ramsey But higher Northward amidst the Fennes there stood another Abbay of very great name called Thorney of thornes and bushes that grow thicke about it but in times past Ankerige of Ankers or Eremites living there solitarily where as we finde in Peterborough booke Sexvulph a devout and religious man built a Monastery with little Cels for Eremits Which being afterwards by the Danes throwne downe Aetbelwold Bishop of Winchester that he might promote the Monasticall profession reedified stored it with Monkes and compassed it round about with trees The place as writeth William of Malmesbury Representeth a very Paradise for that in pleasure and delight it resembleth Heaven it selfe in the very Marishes bearing Trees that for their streight talnesse and the same without knots strive to touch the Stars a Plaine is there as even as the Sea which with greene grasse allureth the eye so smooth and level that if any walke along the fields they shall finde nothing to stumble at There is not the least parcell of ground that lies waste and void there Here shall you finde the earth rising somewhere for Apple trees there shall you have a field set with Vines which either creepe upon the ground or mount on high upon poles to support them A mutuall strife there is betweene nature and husbandry that what the one forgetteth the other might supply and produce What will be said of the faire and beautifull buildings which it is a wonder to see how the ground amid those Fens and Marishes so firme and sound doth beare with sure and stedfast foundations A wonderfull solitary place is there afforded to Monkes for quiet life that so much the more constantly settle their mindes upon Heavenly things for that they see men very seldome and so are they seene in their state more mortified and lower brought A wonder it is to have a Woman seene there if come men thither there is rejoycing as at so many Angels In a word I may truly say that this Island is an Hostell of Chastity an harbour of Honesty and a Schoole or Colledge of Divine Philosophie Touching Wisbich the Bishop of Elies Castle about 13. miles off situate among the fennes and rivers and made of late a prison to keepe the Papists in hold I have nothing else to say but that this towne together with Walepole was in old time given by the owner thereof unto the monastery of Ely what time as he consecrated Alwin his little son there to live a monkes life that King William the First built a Castle there when the outlawed Lords made rodes out of this fenny country and that in the yeere of our salvation 1236. when the Ocean being disquieted with violent windes for two dayes continually together had beaten upon the shore made an exceeding wide breach and overwhelmed both land and people But the Castle of bricke that now is seene there Iohn Morton Bishop of Ely built within the rememberance of our great grandfathers who also drew as streight as a line in this fenny country a ditch which they call the Newleame for better conveyance and carriage by water that by this meanes the towne being well frequented might gaine the more and grow to wealth Which fell out quite contrary For it standeth now in no great steed and the neighbour inhabitants complaine that the course of Nen into the Sea by Clowcrosse is by this meanes altogether hindred and stopped The first Earle of Cambridge that I can finde was William the brother of Ranulph Earle of Chester as wee read in a patent or instrument of Alexander Bishop of Lincolne bearing date in the yeere 1139. Afterwards those of the royall blood in Scotland that were Earles of Huntingdon wee may thinke to have beene Earles of Cambridge also For that it appeareth certainly out of the Records of the realme that David Earle of Huntingdon received the third penny of the County or Earledome of Cambridge Long time after King Edward the Third advanced Sir Iohn of Henault brother to William the third Earle of Holland and of Henault to this honour for the love of Queene Philip his wife who was cosin to the said Iohn For
Saint Peter and be yeelded up without delay for ever unto the Abbot and to the Monkes there serving God yet King William the Conquerour cancelled and made voide this Testament who reserving a great part of it to himselfe divided the rest betweene Countesse Iudith whose daughter was married to David King of Scots Robert Mallet Oger Gislebert of Gaunt Earle Hugh Aubrey the Clerk and others And unto Westminster first he left the Tithes afterwards the Church onely of Okeham and parcels thereunto appertaining This County hath not had many Earles The first Earle of Rutland was Edward the first begotten Sonne of Edmund of Langley Duke of Yorke created by King Richard the Second upon a singular favour that he cast unto him during his Fathers life and afterwards by the same King advanced to the honour of Duke of Aumarle This young man wickedly projected with others a practise to make away King Henry the Fourth and streight waies with like levity discovered the same But after his Fathers death being Duke of Yorke lost his life fighting couragiously amid the thickest troupes of his enemies in the battaile of Agincourt Long time after there succeeded in this Honour Edward the little young Sonne of Richard Duke of Yorke and he together with his Father during those deadly broiles of civill warre was slaine in the battaile fought at Wakefield Many yeeres after King Henry the Eighth raised up Sir Thomas Mannours to be Earle of Rutland who in right of his Grand-mother Aeleonor was possessed of a goodly and faire inheritance of the Barons Roos lying in the countries round about and elsewhere In his roome succeeded his Sonne Henry and after him likewise Edward his Sonne unto whom if I should say nothing else that commendation of the Poet was most aptly and truly appliable Nomen virtutibus aequat Nec sinit ingenium nobilitate premi His name so great with vertues good he matcheth equally Nor suffreth wit smuthring to lie under Nobility But he by over hasty and untimely death being received into Heaven left this dignity unto John his Brother who also departing this life within a while hath for his successor Roger his Sonne answerable in all points to his ancient and right noble parentage This small Shire hath Parish Churches 48. LINCOLNIAE Comitatus vbi olim insederunt CORITANI LINCOLNE-SHIRE VPon Rutland on the East side confineth the County of LINCOLNE called by the English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by the Normans Nicol-shire after their comming into the Land with some transposition of letters but usually LINCOLNE-SHIRE A very large Country as reaching almost threescore miles in length and carrying in some places above thirty miles in bredth passing kinde for yeeld of Corne and feeding of Cattaile well furnished and set out with a great number of Townes and watered with many Rivers Upon the Eastside where it bendeth outward with a brow fetching a great compasse the German Ocean beateth on the shore Northward it recheth to Humber an arme of the sea on the West side it butteth upon Nottingham-shire and on the South it is severed from Northampton-shire by the River Welland This whole Shire is divided into three parts whereof one is called Holland a second Kesteven and the third Lindsey Holland which Ingulph termeth Holland lyeth to the sea and like unto that Holland in Germanie it is so throughly wet in most places with waters that a mans foote is ready to sinke into it and as one standeth upon it the ground will shake and quake under his feet and thence it may seeme to have taken the name unlesse a man would with Ingulph say that Holland is the right name and the same imposed upon it of Hay which our Progenitours broadly called Hoy. This part throughout beareth upon that ebbing and flowing arme of the Sea which Ptolomee calleth METARIS instead of Maltraith and wee at this day The Washes A very large arme this is and passing well knowne at every tide and high sea covered all over with water but when the sea ebbeth and the tide is past a man may passe over it as on dry land but yet not without danger Which King John learned with his losse For whilest he journied this way when he warred upon the rebellious Barons the waters suddenly brake in upon him so that at Fosse-dyke and Welstream he lost all his carriage and princely furniture as Matthew of Westminster writeth This Country which the Ocean hath laied to the land as the Inhabitants beleeve by sands heaped and cast together they it terme Silt is assailed on the one side with the said Ocean sea and in the other with a mighty confluence of waters from out of the higher countries in such sort that all the Winter quarter the people of the country are faine to keepe watch and ward continually and hardly with all the bankes and dammes that they make against the waters are able to defend themselves from the great violence and outrage thereof The ground bringeth forth but small store of corne but plenty of grasse and is replenished abundantly with fish and water-fowle The Soile throughout is so soft that they use their Horses unshod neither shall you meet so much as with a little stone there that hath not beene brought thither from other places neverthelesse there bee most beautifull Churches standing there built of foure square stone Certaine it is that the sea aforetime had entred farther up into the Country and that appeareth by those bankes formerly raised against the waterwaves then in-rushing which are now two miles off from the shore as also by the hils neere Sutterton which they call Salt-Hils But of fresh water there is exceeding great want in all places neither have they any at all but raine water and that in pits which if they be of any great depth presently become brackish if shallow they dry up as soone Neither are there Quicksands wanting which have a wonderfull force to draw to them and to hold fast as both Shepheards and their poore Sheepe also finde other whiles not without danger This Holland or Hoiland whether you will is divided into two parts The Lower and the Higher The Lower hath in it soule and slabby quavemires yea and most troublesome Fennes which the very Inhabitants themselves for all their stilts cannot stalke through And considering that it lieth very low and flat fenced it is of the one side against the Ocean on the other from those waters which overwhelme the upper part of the Isle of Ely with mighty piles and huge bankes opposed against the same Of which Southybanke is of greatest name which least it should have a breach made through it with that infinite masse of water that falleth from the South part when the Rivers swell and all is overflowne by inundation the people watch with great care and much feare as against a dangerous enemy And yet for the draining away of this water the neighbour Inhabitants at the common charges
of the country beganne to make a new chanell at Clowcrosse in the yeere 1599. Neere unto this banke aforesaid we saw Crowland which also is called Croyland a Towne of good note among the Fenne-people the name whereof soundeth as Ingulph the Abbat of this place interpreteth it as much as A raw and muddy Land A place as they write much haunted in times past with I wot not what sprites and fearefull apparitions before that Guthlake a right holy and devout man led there an Eremits life In whose memoriall Aethelbald King of the Mercians founded to the honour of God at his great charges in the yeere of our Salvation 716. an Abbay very famous both for opinion of the religious life of the Monkes and also for their wealth Concerning which take heere if you please these Verses of Foelix a Monke of good antiquity out of the life of Guthlake Nunc exercet ibi se munificentia Regis Et magnum templum magno molimine condit At cum tam mollis tam lubrica tam malè constans Fundamenta palus non ferret saxea palos Praecipit infigi quercino robore caesos Leucarúmque novem spacio rate fertur arena Inque solum mutatur humus suffultáque tali Cella basi multo stat consummata labore His bounty now the King doth there bestow An Abbay faire with much expense to reare But seeing that the waterish Fenne below Those ground-workes laid with stone uneath could beare So quaving soft and moist the Bases were He caused piles made of good heart of oke Pitch't downe to be with maine commanders stroke Then nine leagues off men sand in Barges brought Which once fast ramm'd by painfull workmans hand Of rotten earth good solid ground was wrought On which for aye such workes might firmely stand And thus by this devise of new plantation The Church stands firme and hath a sure foundation If I should exemplifie unto you out of that Monke the Devils of Crowland with their blabber lips fire-spitting mouthes rough and skaly visages beetle heads terrible teeth sharpe chins hoarse throats blacke skinnes crump-shoulders side and gor-bellies burning loines crooked and hawm'd legges long tailed buttockes and ugly mishapes which heeretofore walked and wandered up and downe in these places and very much troubled holy Guthlake and the Monkes you would laugh full merily and I might bee thought a simple sily-one full worthily Howbeit in regard of the admirable situation of this place so farre different from all others in England and considering the Abbay was so famous I am well content to dwell a while in the description of these particulars Amid most deepe Fennes and standing waters in a muddy and miry ground this Crowland lyeth so shut up and divided round about from all entrance that there is no accesse to it unlesse it bee on the North and East side and that by narrow Cawsies Seated it is for all the world if I may resemble great and small things together like unto Venice Three streets it hath and those severed one from another by water courses betweene planted thicke with willowes and raised upon piles or postes pitched and driven downe deepe into the standing waters having over them a triangle Bridge of admirable workmanship under which for to receive the fall of the waters meeting in one confluence the Inhabitants report there was a pit sunke of a mighty depth Now whereas beyond the Bridge in solum mutatur humus as that Monke said that is The mould is chaunged and is become firme and solid ground there stood in times past that famous Abbay and the same verily taking up but a small plot of ground about which all save where the Towne standeth is so rotten and moorish that a man may thrust a pole downe right thirty foote deepe and round about it every way is nothing but a plot of reeds and next unto the Church a place planted with Alders Howbeit the Towne is well enough peopled with Inhabitants who have their Cattaile a great way from the Towne and when they are to milke them they goe in little punts or boats that will carry but two a peece which they call Skerries yet the most gainfull trade they have is by taking fish and catching of water-foule and that is so great that in the moneth of August they will spread a net and at once draw three thousand Mallards and wilde Duckes and such like together and these pooles or watery plots of theirs they use to terme their Corne fields for they see no Corne growing in five miles any way In regard of this their taking of fish and fowle they paid yeerely in times past to the Abbat as now they doe to the King three hundred pounds of our money The private History of this Abbay I list not to relate seeing it is commonly extant and to be seene out of Ingulph now printed and published yet my minde serves me well briefely to record that which Peter of Bloys Vice-chancellour to King Henry the Second reported at large as touching the new building of this Abbay in the yeere of our Redemption 1112. to the end that by this one president wee may learne by what meanes and helpes so mighty so huge and so faire religious houses were raised and built up in those times Ioffrid the Abbat obtained of the Archbishops and Bishops in England An Indulgence for the third part of penance enjoyned for sinnes committed unto every one that helped forward so holy a worke With this Indulgence he sent out Monkes every way and all about to gather money wherewith when hee was now sufficiently furnished to the end that hee might have an happy beginning of this worke from some happy names of lucky presage hee solemnely appointed the day of Saint Perpetua and of Saint Felicity on which he would lay the first foundation At which day there came flocking in great numbers the Nobles the Prelates and Commons of all the Country thereabout After the celebration of Divine Service and Anthems sung in parts Abbat Ioffrid himselfe layed the first Corner stone Eastward then the Noble men and great persons every one in their degree couched their stones and upon the said stones some laid money others their sealed Deeds of lands Advousons of Churches of Tenths of their Sheepe and of the Tithes of their Churches of certaine measures of wheat and of a certaine number of Workemen as Masons and Quarriers whom they would pay The common sort again and towneships for their parts offered with chearefull devotion some money others one daies labour every moneth untill the worke were finished some the building of whole Pillars others of the bases to the said Pillars and others again to make certaine parts of the wals striving a vie who should doe most This done the Abbat after hee had in a solemne speech commended their devout bounty to so holy a worke granted unto every one of them the fraternity of his Abbay and the participation besides of all
of the same name not farre from the ruines of Bitham Castle which as we find in an old Pedigree King William the first gave to Stephen Earle of Albemarle and Holdernesse that he might from thence have wherewith to feed his sonne as yet a little infant with fine wheat bread considering that in Holdernesse they did eate in those daies oten bread onely although they use now such kind of bread little or nothing at all But in the reigne of King Henry the Third when William de Fortibus Earle of Aumarle rebelliously kept this Castle and thence forraged and wasted the country about it it was laid well neere even with the ground Afterward this was the capitall seat as it were of the Barony of the Colvils who along time flourished in very great honour but the right line had an end under King Edward the Third and then the Gernons and those notable Bassets of Sapcot in right of their wives entred upon the inheritance This river Witham presently beneath his head hath a towne seated hard by it named Paunton which standeth much upon the antiquity thereof where are digged up oftentimes pavements of the Romanes wrought with checker worke and heere had the river a bridge over it in old time For that this is the towne AD PONTEM which Antonine the Emperor placed seven miles distant from MARGIDUNUM the name Paunton together with the distance not onely from Margidunum but also from Crococalana doth easily convince for in Antonine that towne was called CROCOCALANA which at this day is named Ancaster and is no more but a long streete through which the High-way passeth whereof the one part not long since belonged to the Veseies the other to the Cromwells At the entry into it on the South part we saw a rampier with a ditch and certaine it is that aforetime it had been a Castle like as on the other side Westward is to be seene a certaine summer standing campe of the Romanes And it may seeme that it tooke a British name from the situation thereof For it lieth under an hill and Cruc-maur in British signifieth a Great hill like as Cruc-occhidient a mount in the West as we read in Giraldus Cambrensis and Ninnius But what should be the meaning of that Calana let others looke The memory of antiquity in this towne is continued and maintained by the Romane Coines by the vaults under ground oftentimes discovered by the site upon the High-street and by those fourteene miles that are betweene it and Lincolne through a greene plaine which we call Ancaster-Heath for just so many doth Antonine reckon betweene Croco-calana and Lindum But now returne we to the river After Paunton wee come to Grantham a towne of good resort adorned and set out with a Schoole built by Richard Fox Bishop of Winchester and with a faire Church having a spire-steeple of a mighty heigth whereof there goe many fabulous tales Beneath it neere unto Herlaxton a little village a brasen vessell in our fathers time was turned up with a plough wherein a golden Helmet of a most antique fashion was found set with precious stones which was given as a present to Catherine of Spaine wife and Dowager to King Henry the Eighth From hence Witham passeth with a long course North-ward not farre from Somerton Castle which Antonine Becc Bishop of Durham built and gave to King Edward the First but a little after it was bestowed upon Sir Henry de Beaumont who about that time came into England and began the family of the Lords Beaumont which in the foregoing age in some sort failed when as the sister and heire of the last Vicount was married to John Lord Lovel de Tichmersh But of this house I have spoken before in Leicester-shire From thence the river bending by little and little to the South-East and passing through a Fenny Country dischargeth it selfe into the German Sea beneath Boston after it hath closed in Kesteven on the North. On the other side of Witham lieth the third part of this shire named Lindsey which of the chiefe Citie of the Shire Bede called Lindissi and being greater than Hoiland and Kesteven butteth with a huge bowing front upon the Ocean beating upon the East and North sides thereof On the West part it hath the river Trent and is severed from Kesteven on the South by that Witham aforesaid and the Fosse Dike anciently cast and scoured by King Henry the First for seven miles in length from Witham into Trent that it might serve the Citizens of Lincolne for carriage of necessaries by water Where this Dike entreth into Trent standeth Torksey in the Saxon language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a little towne and in these daies of small account but in ancient times very famous For before the Normans comming in as we finde in that booke wherein King William the first set downe his survey of England there were numbered in it two hundred Burgesses who enjoyed many priviledges on this condition that they should transport the Kings Embassadours whensoever they came this way in their owne Barges along the Trent and conduct them as farre as YORKE But where this Dike joyneth to Witham there is the principall City of this Shire placed which Ptolomee and Antonine the Emperour called LINDUM the Britans LINDCOIT of the woods for which we finde it elsewhere written amisse Luit-coit Bede LINDE-COLLINUM and LINDE COLLINA CIVITAS whether it were of the situation upon an hill or because it hath been a Colonie I am not able to avouch The Saxons termed it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Normans most corruptly Nichol we Lincolne and the Latine writers Lincolnia whereupon Alexander Necham in his booke intituled Divine wisdome writeth thus Lindisiae columen Lincolnia sive columna Munificâ foelix gente repleta bonis Lincolne the stay or piller sure of Lindsey thou maist bee Blest for thy people bounteous and goods that are in thee Others will have it to take that name of the river Witham which they say was called by a more ancient name Lindis but they have no authority to warrant them Neither am I of their judgement For Necham is against it who foure hundred yeeres agoe called the said river Witham in this verse Trenta tibi pisces mittit Lincolnia sed te Nec dedigneris Withama parvus adit The Trent unto thee sendeth fish O Lincoln well we see Yet little Witham scorne it not a riveret comes to thee I for my part would rather derive it from the British word Lhin which with the Britans signifieth a Lake For I have been enformed of the Citizens that Witham below the Citie by Swanpole was broader than now it is and yet is it at this day of a good breadth and to say nothing of Lindaw in Germanie by the Lake Acronius and of Linternum in Italie standing by a Lake I see
place at this day is called Buxton well which being found by experience holsome for the stomach sinewes and the whole body George Earle of Shrewesbury lately beautified with buildings and so they are begunne againe to bee resorted unto by concourse of the greatest Gentlemen and of the Nobility At which time that most unfortunate Lady Mary Queene of Scots bad farewell unto Buxton with this Distichon by a little change of Caesars Verses concerning Feltria in this wise Buxtona a quae calidae celebrabere nomine lymphae Fortè mihi posthac non adeunda vale Buxton that of great name shalt be for hote and holsome baine Farewell for I perhaps shall not thee ever see againe But that these hote waters were knowne in old time The Port-way or High paved Street named Bath-gate reaching for seven miles together from hence unto Burgh a little Village doth manifestly shew Neere unto this Burgh there standeth upon the top of an hill an old Castle sometimes belonging to the Peverels called The Castle in the Peake and in Latin De Alto Pecco which King Edward the Third together with a Manour and an Honour gave unto his sonne John Duke of Lancaster what time as hee surrendered the Earledome of Richmond into the Kings hands Under which there is a Cave or hole within the ground called saving your reverence The Devils Arse that gapeth with a wide mouth and hath in it many turnings and retyring roomes wherein forsooth Gervase of Tilbury whether for wane of knowing trueth or upon a delight hee had in fabling hath written that a Shepheard saw a very wide and large Country with Riverets and Brookes running heere and there through it and huge Pooles of dead and standing waters Notwithstanding by reason of these and such like fables this Hole is reckoned for one of the wonders of England neither are there wanting the like tales of another Cave but especially of that which is called Elden Hole wherein there is nothing to bee wondred at but that it is of an huge widnesse exceeding steepe and of a mervailous depth But whosoever have written that there should bee certaine tunnels and breathing holes out of which windes doe issue they are much deceived Neither doe these Verses of Alexander Necham which hee wrote as touching the Mervailes of England agree to any of these two holes Est specus Aeolijs ventis obnoxia semper Impetus è gemino maximus ore venit Cogitur injectum velamen adire supernas Partes descensum impedit aura potens A Cave to strong Aeolian windes alwaies enthral'd there is From two-fold tunnell maine great blasts arise and never misse A cloth or garment cast therein by force aloft is sent A mighty breath or powrfull puffe doth hinder all descent But all the memorable matters in this high and rough stony little Country one hath comprised in these foure Verses Mira alto Pecco tria sunt barathrum specus antrum Commoda tot plumbum gramen ovile pecus Tot speciosa simul sunt Castrum Balnea Chatsworth Plura sed occurrunt quae speciosa minùs There are in High Peake Wonders three A deepe Hole Cave and Den Commodities as many bee Lead Grasse and Sheepe in pen. And Beauties three there are withall A Castle Bath Chatsworth With places more yet meet you shall That are of meaner worth To these Wonders may be added a wonderfull Well in the Peake Forest not farre from Buxtons which ordinarily ebbeth and floweth foure times in the space of one houre or thereabout keeping his just Tides and I know not whether Tideswell a Mercate Towne heereby hath his name thereof The Peverels who I have said before were Lords of Nottingham are also reported to have beene Lords of Darby Afterward King Richard the First gave and confirmed unto his brother John the Counties and Castles of Nottingham Lancaster Darby c. with the honours thereto belonging with the honour also of Peverell After him these were Earles of Derby out of the family of Ferrars so far as I am able to gather out of the Registers of Tutbury Merivall and Burton Monasteries William Ferrars sonne to the Daughter and heire of Peverell whom King John with his owne hand as we finde in an ancient Charter invested Earle of Darby William his sonne who bruised with a fall out of his Coach died in the yeere 1254. And this Williams sonne Robert who in the Civill Warre lost this Title and a great estate by forfeiture in such sort as that none of his posterity although they lived in great port and reputation were ever restored to that honor againe But most of this Roberts possessions K. Henry the Third passed over unto Edmund his owne younger son and King Edward the Third I write out of the very originall Record by authority and advise of the Parliament ordained Henry of Lancaster the sonne of Henry Earle of Lancaster Earle of Darby to him and his heires and withall assigned unto him a thousand markes yeerely during the life of his father Henry Earle of Lancaster From that time this Title was united to the line of Lancaster untill King Henry the Seventh bestowed the same upon Thomas Lord Stanley who before had wedded Margaret the Kings mother to him and the heires males of his body He had for his successour his Grandsonne Thomas begotten by George his sonne of Ioan the heire of the Lord Strange of Knocking this Thomas had by the sister of George Earle of Huntingdon Edward the third Earle of this Family highly commended for hospitality and affability who by the Lady Dorothy Daughter to the first Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke begat Henry the fourth Earle efts-once honourably employed who left by Lady Margaret Daughter of Henry Earle of Cumberland Ferdinand and William successively Earles of Darby Ferdinand dyed in strange manner in the flower of his youth leaving by Margaret his Wife Daughter of Sir John Spenser of Althorp three Daughters Anne marryed to Grey Bruges Lord Chandos Francis Wife to Sir Iohn Egerton and Elizabeth Wife to Henry Earle of Huntingdon William the sixth Earle now enjoyeth that Honour having issue by Elizabeth Daughter to Edward late Earle of Oxford ANd thus much of the Counties of Nottingham and Darby of which they inhabited a part who in Bedes time were called Mercij Aquilonares that is The Northern Mercians for that they dwelt beyond the Trent Northward and they held as hee saith The land of seven thousand Families This County holdeth in it Parishes 106. CORNAVII HAving now travailed in order through the Countries of the ancient CORITANI I am to survey the Regions confining which in ancient time the people called CORNABII or CORNAVII inhabited The derivation or Etymologie of whose name let others sift out As for my selfe I could draw the force and signification of that word to this and that diversly but seeing none of them doth aptly answere to the nature of the place or disposition of the people
afterward this honor at the hands of King Henry the Fifth Who shortly after in the French war lost his life at the siege of Meaux in Brye leaving one onely daughter married to Sir Edward Nevill from whom descended the late Lords of Abergevenny Afterward King Henry the Sixth created John Tiptoft Earle of Worcester But when he presently taking part with King Edward the Fourth had applied himselfe in a preposterous obsequiousnesse to the humor of the said King and being made Constable of England plaied the part as it were of the butcher in the cruell execution of diverse men of qualitie himselfe when as King Henry the Sixth was now repossessed of the crowne came to the blocke Howbeit his sonne Edward recovered that honor when King Edward recovered his Kingdome But after that this Edward died without issue and the inheritance became divided among the sisters of the said John Tiptoft Earle of Worcester of whom one was married to the Lord Roo◠another to Sir Edmund Ingoldesthorpe and the third to the Lord Dudley Sir Charles Somerset base sonne to Henry Duke of Somerset Lord Herbert and Lord Chamberlaine to King Henry the Eighth was by him created Earle of Worcester After whom succeeded in lineall descent Henry William and Edward who now flourisheth and among other laudable parts of vertue and Nobility highly favoureth the studies of good literature There are in this Shire Parishes 152. STAFFORDIAE COMITATVS PARS olim Cornauiorum STAFFORD-SHIRE THE third Region of the old CORNAVII now called STAFFORD-SHIRE in the English Saxons Language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Inhabitants whereof because they dwelt in the middest of England are in Bede termed Angli Mediterranei that is Midland Englishmen having on the East Warwick-shire and Darby-shire on the South side Worcester-shire and Westward Shropp-shire bordering upon it reacheth from South to North in forme of a Lozeng broader in the middest and growing narrower at the ends The North part is full of Hilles and so lesse fruitfull the middle being watered with the River Trent is more plentifull clad with Woods and embroidered gallantly with Corne fields and medowes as is the South part likewise which hath Coles also digged out of the earth and mines of Iron But whether more for their commodity or hinderance I leave to the Inhabitants who doe or shall best understand it In the South part in the very confines with Worcester-shire upon the River Stour standeth Stourton Castle sometimes belonging to the Earles of Warwicke the natall place of Cardinall Pole and then Dudley Castle towreth up upon an hill built and named so of one Dudo or Dodo an English Saxon about the yeere of our Salvation 700. In King William the Conquerours daies as we finde in his Domesday Booke William Fitz-Ausculph possessed it afterwards it fell to Noble men sirnamed Somery and by an heire generall of them to Sir Richard Sutton knight descended from the Suttons of Nottingham-shire whose Posterity commonly called from that time Lords of Dudley but summoned to Parliament first by King Henry the Sixth grew up to a right honourable Family Under this lyeth Pensueth Chace in former times better stored with game wherein are many Cole-pits in which as they reported to mee there continueth a fire begunne by a candle long since through the negligence of a grover or digger The smoke of this fire and sometime the flame is seene but the savour oftener smelt and other the like places were shewed unto mee not farre off North-West ward upon the Confines of Shropp-shire I saw Pateshull a seat of the Astleies descended from honourable Progenitours and Wrotesley an habitation of a Race of Gentlemen so sirnamed out of which Sir Hugh Wrotesley for his approoved valour was chosen by King Edward the Third Knight of the Garter at the first institution and so accounted one of the founders of the said honourable Order Next after this the memorable places that wee meet with in this Tract more inwardly are these Chellington a faire house and Manour of the ancient Family of the Giffards which in the Raigne of Henry the Second Peter Corbuchin gave to Peter Giffard upon whom also Richard Strongbow that Conquerour of Ireland bestowed in free gift Tachmelin and other Possessions in Ireland Theoten hall which is by interpretation The habitation of Heathens or Pagans at this day Tetnall embrued with Danish bloud in the yeere 911. by King Edward the Elder in a bloudy Battaile Ulfrunes Hampton so called of Wulfruna a most godly and devout woman who enriched the Towne called before simply Hampton with a religious House and for Wulfrunes Hampton it is corruptly called Wulver Hampton The greatest name and note whereof ariseth by the Church there annexed to the Warden or Deane and Prebendaries of Windsor Weadsbury in these dayes Weddsborrow fortified in old time by Aethelfled Lady of the Mercians and Walshall a Mercate Towne none of the meanest Neere unto which the River Tame carryeth his streame which rising not farre off for certaine miles wandereth through the East part of this Shire seeking after Trent neere unto Draiton Basset the seat of the Bassets who springing out from Turstan Lord of this place in the Raigne of Henry the First branched forth into a great and notable Family For from hence as from a stocke flourished the Bassets of Welleden of Wiccomb of Sapcot of Cheddle and others But of this of Draiton Raulph was the last who being a right renowned Baron had marryed the sister of John Montfort Duke of Britaine and in the Raigne of Richard the Second died without issue Then Tame passing through the Bridge at Falkesley over which an ancient high way of the Romanes went runneth hard under Tamworth in the Saxon Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Marianus calleth it Tamawordia a Towne so placed in the Confines of the two Shires that the one part which belonged sometime to the Marmions is counted of Warwick-shire the other which pertained to the Hastings of Stafford-shire As for the name it is taken from Tame the Riuer running beside it and of the English Saxon word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which signifieth a Barton Court or Ferme-house and also an Holme or River Island or any place environed with water seeing that Keyserwert and Bomelswert in Germanie betoken as much as Caesars Isle and Bomels Isle Whiles the Mercians Kingdome stood in state this was a place of their Kings resiance and as we finde in the Lieger Booke of Worcester a Towne of very great resort and passing well frequented Afterward when in the Danes Warre it was much decaied Aethelfled Lady of Mercia repaired and brought it againe to the former state also Edith King Eadgars Sister who refusing Marriage for the opinion that went of her for holinesse was registred in the roll of Saints founded heere a little house for Nunnes and veiled Virgins which after some yeeres was translated to
Vlster So that doubtlesse he was either a man of rare vertue or a gracious favourite or a great Lawyer or else all jointly His posterity matched in marriage with the heires of the Lord Giffard of Brimsfield of Baron Martin Lord of Keimeis and Barstaple and a younger brother of this house with one of the heires of the Earle of Glocester and was by King Edward the Third created Earle of Glocester About which time James Lord Audley flourished in Chivalry who as the French write being grievously wounded in the battaile at Poitiers when the blacke Prince with many comfortable commendations had given him 400. Markes of yeerely revenewes he bestowed the same forthwith upon his foure Esquires who alwaies valiantly attended him and satisfied the Prince doubting that his gift was too little for so great service with this answer dutifully acknowledging his bounty It is meet that I doe well for them who deserved best of me These my Esquiers saved my life amidst my enemies And God be thanked my ancestours have left me sufficient revenewes to maintaine me in your service Whereupon the Prince approving this prudent liberality both confirmed his gift to his Esquires and assigned him moreover lands to the value of six hundred Markes yeerely But by his daughter one of the coheires to her brother the Title of Lord Audley came afterward to the Touchets and in them continueth Neither must I heere passe over in silence an house in this tract called Gerards Bromley both for the magnificence thereof and also because it is the principall seat of Sir Thomas Gerard whom King James in the first yeere of his Raigne created Baron Gerard of Gerards Bromley This Sow as it were a parallel river unto Trent runneth even with him and keeping an equall distance still from him by Chebsey which had in times past for Lords therof the Hastangs reputed among the prime Nobility in the time of King Edward the First not farre from Eccleshall the habitation of the Bishop of Lichfield and Ellenhall which was sometime the seat of the Noels a worshipfull house who founded heere a Monastery at Raunton and from whom it descended hereditarily to the Harcourts who being of the ancient Norman nobility flourished a long time in great dignity But yet of the male heires of the Noels there remaine still Sir Edward Noel of Dalby in Leicester-shire and the Noels of Wellesborow in Leicester-shire with others Then runneth Sow under Stafford in times past called Statford and before time Betheney where Bertelin reputed a very holy man led in ancient times an Eremits life in serving God And King Edward the Elder built on the South banke of the River a Castle in the yeere of Christ 914. What time as King William the Conquerour registred the Survey of all England as we reade in his Domesday Booke The King had in it only 18. Burgesses in his owne domaine and 20. Mansions of the honour of the Earle it paid for all customes nine pounds of deniers and had thirteene Chanons Prebendaries who held in franke Almoine and the King commanded a Castle to bee made which now is destroyed But then as now also it was the head Towne of the whole Shire howbeit the greatest credite and honor thereof came from Stafford Castle adjoyning which the Barons of Stafford of whose progeny were the Dukes of Buckingham built for their owne seat who procured of King John that it was made a Burrough with ample liberties caused it to be partly fensed with a Wall and erected a Priory of Blacke Chanons to the honour of Saint Thomas of Canterbury Beneath which the Riveret Penke which gave name to Pennocrucium or Penkridge whereof I have already spoken joyneth with that Sow aforesaid And neere unto the confluence of Sow and Trent standeth Ticks hall the dwelling place of the Astons a Family which for antiquity kinred and alliance is in these parts of great name Trent having harboured these rivers in his chanell passeth now through the mids of the Shire with a gentle streame taking a view of Chartley Castle standing two miles aside from the banke on the left hand which Castle came from Raulph Earle of Chester who built it unto the Ferrars by Agnes his sister whom William Ferrars Earle of Darby had marryed out of whose Race the Lords Ferrars of Chartley flourished and Anne the Daughter of the last of them brought this Honour as her dowry unto Sir Walter D'Eureux her husband from whom Robert D'Evereux Earle of Essex and Lord Ferrars of Chartley is lineally descended On the right side of the river about the same distance standeth most pleasantly among the woods Beaudesert the lodge in times past of the Bishops of Lichfield but now the house of the Lord Paget For Sir William Paget who for his approoved wisdome both at home and abroad stood in high favour with King Henry the Eight and King Edward the Sixth and obteined at their hands faire possessions was by the said K. Edward the Sixth created Lord Paget of Beaudesert He was that I may note so much out of his Epitaph Secretary and Privy Counsellour to King Henry the Eighth and appointed by his Testament Counsellour and aidor to King Edward the Sixth during his minority To whom he was Chauncellor of the Dutchy of Lancaster Controller of the house and by him made as I said Baron and knight of the Garter as by Queene Mary Lord Privy Seale Whose grandsonne William is now the fourth Baron Pagets and for his vertue and studies of the best arts is an honour to his house and in this respect deserveth to be honorably remembred From thence may you descrie Lichfield scarce foure miles from this right-side banke of Trent Bede calleth it Licidfeld which Rosse of Warwick interpreteth Cadaverum campus that is The field of dead bodies and reporteth that a number of Christians were there Martyred under the persecutor Dioclesian This City is low seated of a good largenesse and faire withall divided into two parts with a shallow poole of cleere water which parts notwithstanding joyne in one by the meanes of two bridges or causeies made over that have their sluces to let out the water The South part which is on the hither side is the greater consisting of divers streets hath in it the schoole and an hospitall of Saint John founded for reliefe of the poore The farther part is the lesse but beautified with a very goodly Cathedrall Church which being round about compassed with a faire wall castle-like and garnished beside with faire houses of Prebendaries and with the Bishops palace also doth mount upon high with three pyramids or spires of stone making an excellent shew and for elegant and proportionall building yeeldeth to few Cathedrall Churches In this place many ages past a Bishops See was established for in the 656. yeere after the Worlds redemption Oswie King of Northumberland having vanquished the Mercians as then
Iustice of the Common Pleas and a very great lover of learning But he hath now taken his quiet sleepe in Christ and left his sonne Sir Roger Owen for his manifold learning a right worthy sonne of so good a father This is holden of the King as we reade in the Records In chiefe to finde two footmen one day in the army of Wales in time of warre Which I note heere once for all to this end that I may give to understand that Gentlemen and Noblemen heereabout held their inheritances of the Kings of England by this tenure to be ready in service with Souldiers for defence of the Marches whensoever there should be any warre betweene England and Wales Neere unto this there is a little Village named Pichford that imparted the name in times past to the ancient Family of Pichford now the Possession of R. Oteley which our Ancestours for that they knew not pitch from Bitumen so called of a fountaine of Bitumen there in a private mans yard upon which there riseth and swimmeth a kinde of liquid Bitumen daily skumme it off never so diligently even as it doth in the Lake Asphaltites in Iewry in a standing water about Samosata and in a spring by Agrigentum in Sicilie But whether this bee good against the falling sicknesse and have a powerfull property to draw to close up wounds c. as that in Iewry none that I know as yet have made experiment More Westward you may see Pouderbach Castle now decayed and ruinous called in times past Pulrebach the seat of Sir Raulph Butler a younger sonne of Raulph Butler Lord Wem from whom the Butlers of Woodhall in Hertford-shire are lineally descended Beneath this Huckstow Forest spreadeth a great way among the mountaines where at Stipperstons bill there be great heapes of stones and little rockes as it were that rise thicke together the Britans call them Carneddau tewion But whereas as these seeme naturall I dare not with others so much as conjecture that these were any of those stones which Giraldus Cambrensis seemeth to note in these words Harald in person being himselfe the last footeman in marching with footemen and light Armours and victuals answerable for service in Wales valiantly went round about and passed through all Wales so as that he left but few or none alive And for a perpetuall memory of this Victory you may finde very many stones in Wales erected after the antique manner upon hillockes in those places wherein hee had beene Conquerour having these words engraven HIC FVIT VICTOR HARALDVS Heere was Harald Conquerour More Northward Caurse Castle standeth which was the Barony of Sir Peter Corbet from whom it came to the Barons of Stafford and Routon Castle neere unto it the most ancient of all the rest toward the West borders of the Shire not farre from Severn which Castle sometimes belonged to the Corbets and now to the ancient Family of the Listers Before time it was the possession of Iohn le Strange of Knocking in despite of whom Lhewellin Prince of Wales laid it even with the ground as we read in the life of Sir Foulque Fitz-Warin It flourished also in the Romans time under the same name tearmed by Antonine the Emperour RUTUNIUM Neither can wee mistake herein seeing both the name and that distance from URICONIUM a towne full well knowne which he putteth downe doe most exactly agree Neere unto this are Abberbury Castle and Watlesbury which is come from the Corbets to the notable family of the Leightons Knights As for the name it seemeth to have taken it from that High Port-way called Watling street which went this way into the farthest part of Wales as Ranulph of Chester writeth by two little Townes of that street called Strettons betweene which in a valley are yet to be seene the rubbish of an old Castle called Brocards Castle and the same set amiddest greene medowes that before time were fish-pooles But these Castles with others which I am scarce able to number and reckon up for the most part of them are now ruinate not by the fury of warre but now at length conquered even with secure peace and processe of time Now crossing over Severne unto that part of the shire on this side the River which I said did properly belong to the ancient CORNAVII This againe is divided after a sort into two parts by the river Terne running from the North Southward so called for that it issueth out of a very large Poole in Stafford-shire such as they of the North parts call Tearnes In the hither part of these twaine which lyeth East neere to the place where Terne dischargeth his waters into Severn stood the ancient URICONIUM for so Antonine the Emperor termeth it which Ptolomee calleth VIROCONIUM Ninnius Caer Vruach the old English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 wee Wreckceter and Wroxcester This was the chiefe City of the CORNAVII built as it seemeth by the Romans what time as they fortified this banke of Severn in this place where the river is full of fourds as it is not elsewhere lower toward the mouth thereof But this being sore shaken in the Saxons warre fell to utter decay in the Danish broiles and now it is a very small country Towne of poore Husbandmen and presenteth often times to those that aire the ground Roman Coines to testifie in some sort the antiquity thereof Besides them I saw nothing of antiquity but in one place some few parcels of broken walles which the common people call The old worke of Wroxceter This Wall was built of rough stone distinguished outwardly with seven rowes of British brickes in equall distance and brought up with arched worke inwardly I conjecture by the uneven ground by the Rampires and the rubbish of the wall heere and there on either side that the Castle stood in that very place where these ruines remaine But where the plot of the City lay and that was of a great compasse the Soile is more blackish than elsewhere and plentifully yeeldeth the best barley in all this quarter Beneath this City that Port-way of those Romans knowne by the name of Watling street went as I have heard say directly albeit the ridge thereof now appeareth not either through a fourd or over a Bridge the foundations whereof were of late a little higher discovered when they did set a Weare in the River unto the Strattons that is to say Townes upon the Streete whereof I spake even now The ancient name of this decaied URICONIUM sheweth it selfe very apparently in an hill loftily mounting neere thereunto called Wreken hill some Writers terme it Gilberts hill from the top whereof which lyeth in a plaine pleasant levell there is a very delightfull prospect into the Country beneath on every side This Hill runneth out in length a good space as it were attired on the sides with faire spread trees But under it where Severn rolleth downe
in with Shropp shire on the Eastside with Stafford-shire and Darby-shire on the North with Lancashire and on the West with Denbigh and Flint-shires Toward the North-West it runneth farre into the sea with a long cantle or Promontory which being enclosed within two Creekes receiveth the Ocean on both sides entring into the land into which two Creekes also all the Rivers of this Shire doe discharge themselves Into that Creeke which is more Westerne passeth the River Dee that divideth the country from Denbigh-shire into that on the Eastside both Wever which runneth through the mids of the Shire and Mersey also that parteth it from Lancashire issue themselves Neither see I any better way of describing this County than if I follow the very tracts of these Rivers For all the places of greatest note are situate by the sides of them But before I enter into any particular description I will first propose out of Lucian the Monke thus much in commendation of Ches-shire for he is a rare Author and lived a little after the Conquest If any man be desirous saith hee either fully or as neere as may bee to treat of the Inhabitants according to the disposition of their manners in respect of others that live in sundry places of the Realme They are found to bee partly different from the rest of English partly better and partly equall unto them But they seeme especially the best point to bee considered in generall triall of manners in feasting freindly at meat cheerefull in giving entertaiment liberall soone angry but not much and as soone pacified lavish in words impatient of servitude mercifull to the afflicted compassionate toward the poore kinde to their kinred spary of their labour void of dissimulation and doublenesse of heart nothing greedy in eating farre from dangerous practises yet by a certaine licentious liberty bold in borowing many times other mens goods They abound in Woods and pastures they are rich in flesh and Cattaile confining on the one side upon the Welsh Britans and by a long entercourse and transfusion of their manners for the most part like unto them This also is to be considered in what sort the Country of Chester enclosed upon one side with the limite of the Wood Lime by a certaine distinct priviledge from all other Englishmen is free and by the Indulgences of Kings and Excellencies of Earles hath beene wont in Assemblies of the people to attend upon the Earles sword rather than the Kings Crowne and within their precinct to heare and determine the greatest matters with more liberty Chester it selfe is a place of receit for the Irish a neighbour to the Welsh and plentifully served with Corne by the English Finely seated with Gates anciently built approoved in hard and dangerous difficulties In regard of the River and prospect of the eye together worthy according to the name to be called a City garded with watch of holy and religious men and through the mercy of our Saviour alwaies fensed and fortified with the mercifull assistance of the Almightie The River Dee called in Latin Deva in British Dyffyr-dwy that is the water of Dwy breeding very great plenty of Salmons ariseth out of two fountaines in Wales and thereof men thinke it tooke the name for Dwy in their tongue signifieth Two Yet others observing also the signification of the word interpret it Black-water others againe Gods water or Divine water But although Ausonius noteth that a Spring hallowed to the Gods was named Diuvona in the ancient Gaules tongue which was all one with the British and in old time all Rivers were reputed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Descending from Heaven yea and our Britans yeelded divine honour unto Rivers as Gildas writeth yet I see not why they should attribute Divinity to this River Dwy above all others The Thessalians as we reade gave to the River Paeneus divine honour for the pleasantnesse thereof the Scythians to Danubius for the largenesse the Germans to Rhene because it was counted a judge in the question of true and undefiled wedlocke But wherefore they should impose a divine name upon this River I see no reason as I said before unlesse peradventure because now and then it changed the Chanell and thereby foreshewed a sure token of Victory to the Inhabitants upon it when they were in hostility one with another according as it inclined more to this side or to that after it had left the Chanell for thus hath Giraldus Cambrensis recorded who in some sort beleeved it Or else because they observed that contrary to the wonted manner of other Rivers upon the fall of much raine it arose but little and so often as the South winde beateth long upon it it swelleth and extraordinarily overfloweth the grounds adjoyning Peradventure also the Christian Britans thought the water of this River to be holy For it is written that when they stood ready to joyne battaile with the English Saxons and had kissed the earth they dranke also very devoutly of this River in memoriall of Christs most sacred and pretious bloud But d ee which seemeth to rush rather than to run out of Wales no sooner is entred into Cheshire but he passeth more mildely with a slower streame by BONIUM in some written copies of Antonine BOVIUM a City that had been of great name in that age and afterward a famous Monastery Of the Chore or quire whereof it was called by the Britans Bon-chor and Banchor of the ancient English 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Banchor and among many good and godly men it fostered and brought up as some write that most wicked Arch-heretick Pelagius who injuriously derogating from the grace of God troubled a long time the West Church with his pestiferous Doctrine Prosper Aquitanus in this Verse of his termeth him the British Adder or Land-snake Pestifero vomuit coluber sermone Britannus A British Snake with venemous tongue Hath vomited his poison strong Neither have I made mention of him for any other reason but because it is behoveable to each one to know vices and venims In this Monastery as saith Bede There was such a number of Monkes that being divided into seven portions which had every of them a severall head and Ruler over them yet every one of these had no fewer than three hundred men who were wont to live all of their handy labour Of whom Edilfred King of the Nordan-humbers slew 12. hundred because they had implored in their prayers Christs assistance for the Christian Britans against the English-Saxons then infidels The profession of this Monasticall life that I may digresse a little began when Pagan Tyrans enraged against Christians pursued them with bloudy persecutions For then good devout men that they might serve God in more safety and security withdrew themselves into the vast Wildernesses of Aegypt and not as the Painims are wont with open mouth to give it out for to enwrap themselves willingly in
the long traine and consequents of things as also whatsoever throughout the world hath beene done by all persons in all places and at all times and what ever hath beene all done may also bee avoided and taken heed of Which City having foure Gates from the foure cardinall Windes on the East side hath a prospect toward India on the West toward Ireland North-Eastward the greater Norway and Southward that streight and narrow Angle which divine severity by reason of civill and home-discords hath left unto the Britans Which long since by their bitter variance have caused the name of Britaine to bee changed into the name of England Over and beside Chester hath by Gods gift a River to enrich and adorne it the same faire and fishfull hard by the City Walles and on the South side a rode and harbour for shippes comming from Gascoine Spaine and Germany which with the helpe and direction of Christ by the labour and wisedome of Merchants repaire and refresh the heart of the City with many good things that wee being comforted every way by our Gods Grace may also drinke Wine often more frankely and plenteously because those Countries enjoy the fruite of the Vineyards aboundantlie Moreover the open Sea ceaseth not to visite it every day with a Tide which according as the broad shelves and barres of sands are opened or hidden by Tides and Ebbes incessantly is wont more or lesse either to send or exchange one thing or other and by his reciprocall Flow and returnes either to bring in or to carry out somewhat From the City North-Westward there shooteth out a languet of land or Promontory of the maine land into the Sea enclosed on the one side with Dee mouth on the other side with the River Mersey wee call it Wirall the Welsh Britans for that it is an Angle tearme it Kill-gury In old time it was all forest and not inhabited as the Dwellers report but King Edward the Third disforested it Yet now beset it is with Townes on every side howbeit more beholding to the Sea than to the Soile for the land beareth small plenty on Corne the water yeeldeth great store of fish At the entry into it on the South side standeth Shotwich a Castle of the Kings upon the salt water Upon the North standeth Hooten a Mannour which in King Richard the Second his time came to the Stanleies who fetch their Pedegree from Alane Silvestre upon whom Ranulph the first of that name Earle of Chester conferred the Bailly-wick of the Forest of Wirall by delivering unto him an horne Close unto this is Poole from whence the Lords of the place that have a long time flourished tooke their name and hard by it Stanlaw as the Monkes of that place interprete it A Stony hill where John Lacy Connestable of Chester founded a little Monastery which afterward by reason of inundations was translated to Whaley in Lancashire In the utmost brinke of this Promontory lieth a small hungry barren and sandy Isle called Il-bre which had sometime a little Cell of Monkes in it More within the Country and Eastward from Wirall you meet with a famous Forest named the Forest of Delamere the Foresters whereof by hereditary succâ—ssion are the Dawns of Vtkimon descended of a worshipfull stocke from Ranulph de Kingleigh unto whom Ranulph the first Earle of Chester gave that Forestership to bee held by right of inheritance In this Forest Aedelfled the famous Mercian Lady built a little City called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is by interpretation Happy Towne which now having quite lost it selfe hath likewise lost that name and is but an heape of rubbish and rammell which they call The Chamber in the Forest. And about a mile or two from hence are to bee seene the ruines of Finborrow another Towne built by the same Lady Aedelfled Through the upper part of this Forest the River Wever runneth which ariseth out of a Poole in the South side of the Shire at Ridly the dwelling house of the worshipâ—ull Family of the Egertons who flowered out of the Barons of Melpas as I have said Neere hereunto is Bunbury contractly so called for Boniface Bury for Saint Boniface was the Patron Saint there where the Egertous built a College for Priests Over against which is Beeston which gave sirname to an ancient family and where upon a steepe rising hill Beeston Castle towereth aloft with a turretted wall of a great circuit This Castle the last Ranulph Earle of Chester built whereof Leland our Countriman being rapt both with a Poeticall and Propheticall fury writeth thus Assyrio rediens victor Ranulphus ab orbe Hoc posuit Castrum terrorem gentibus olim Vicâ—uis patriaeque suae memorabile vallum Nunc licet indignas patiatur fracta ruinas Tempus erit quando rursus caput exeret altum Vatibus antiquis si fas mihi credere vati When Ranulph from Assyria return'd with victory As well the neighbour Nations to curbe and terrifie As for to sense his owne Country this famous Fort he rais'd Whilom a stately things but now the pride thereof is raz'd And yet though at this present time it be in meane estate With crackes and breaches much defac'd and fouly ruinate The day will come when it againe the head aloft shall heave If ancient Prophets I my selfe a Prophet may beleeve But to returne to the River Wever first holdeth his course Southward not farre from Woodhay where dwelt a long time that family of the Wilburhams knights in great reputation also by Bulkeley and Cholmondley which imparted their names to worshipfull houses of knights degree not farre off on the one hand from Baddeley the habitation in times past of the ancient Family de Praerijs of the other from Cumbermer in which William Malbedeng founded a little religious house Where this River commeth to the South limit of this Shire it passeth through low places wherein as also elsâ—where the people finde oftentimes and get out of the ground trees that have lien buried as it is thought there ever since Noahs floud But afterwards watering fruitfull fields he taketh to him out of the East a riveret by which standeth Wibbenbury so called of Wibba King of the Mercians Hard to it lie Hatherton the seat in old time of the Orbetes then of the Corbetts but now of the Smithes Dodinton the possession of the Delvesies Batherton of the Griphins Shavinton of the Wodenoths who by that name may seeme to have descended from the English Saxons beside the places of other famous Families wherewith this County every where aboundeth From thence runneth Wever downe by Nant-wich not farre from Middlewich and so to Northwich These are very famous Salt-wiches five or sixe miles distant asunder where brine or salt water is drawne out of Pittes which they powre not upon wood while it burneth as the ancient Gaules and Germans were wont to doe but boyle over the
Fire to make Salt thereof Neither doubt I that these were knowne unto the Romanes and that form hence was usually paied the Custome for salt called Salarium For there went a notable high way from Middlewich to Northwich raised with gravell to such an height that a man may easily acknowledge that it was a worke of the Romanes seeing that all this Country over gravell is so scarce and from thence at this day it is carryed to private mens uses Matthew Paris writeth that King Henry the Third stopped up these Salt-pits when in hostile manner he wasted this Shire because the Welshmen so tumultuous in those dayes should not have any victuals or provision from thence But when the faire beames of peace beganne once to shine out they were opened againe Nantwich which the River Wever first visiteth is reputed the greatest and fairest built Towne of all this Shire after Chester the Britans call it Hellath wen that is The white Wich or Salt pitte because the whitest salt is there boiled and such as writ in Latine named it Vicus Malbanus haply of one William named Malbedeng and Malbanc unto whom at the Normans Conquest of England it was allotted It hath one onely Salt pitte they call it the Brine pitte about some foureteene foote from the River out of which they convey salt water by troughes of wood into houses adjoyning wherein there stand little barrels pitched fast in the ground which they fill with that water and at the ringing of a bell they beginne to make fire under the leades whereof they have sixe in every house and therein seeth the said water then certaine women they call them Wallers with little wooden rakes fetch up the salt from the bothom and put it in baskets they call them Salt barowes out of which the liquor runneth and the pure salt remaineth The Church and but one they have is passing faire and belonged as I have heard unto to Abbay of Cumbermer from hence Wever holding on his course crooked enough is augmented with a brooke comming out of the East which runneth downe from Crew a place inhabited in old time by a notable family of that name And farther yet from the West side of the River Calveley sheweth it selfe which gave both habitation and name to the worthy Family of the Calveleys out of which in the Raigne of Richard the Second Sir Hugh Calveley Knight was for his Chivalry in France so renowned that there occurred no hardy exploit but his prowesse would goe through it From thence Wever hieth apace by Minshall the house of the Minshuls and by Vale Royall an Abbay founded by King Edward the First in a most pleasant valley where now dwelleth the ancient Familie of the Holcrofts unto Northwich in British called Hellath Du that is The blacke salt pitte where also very neere the brinke of the river Dan there is a most plentifull and deepe Brine-pit with staires made about it by which they that draw water out of it in lether buckets ascend halfe naked into the troughes and powre it thereinto by which it is carried into the which houses about which there stand on every side many stakes and piles of wood Heere Wever receiveth into his Chanell the River Dan whose tract and streame I will now follow This Dan or more truly Daven flowing out of those hilles which on the East side sever Staffordshire from Ches-shire runneth along to CONDATE a towne mentioned by Antonine the Emperour now called corruptly Congleton the middle whereof the little brooke Howty on the East side Daning-schow and Northward Dan it selfe watereth And albeit this Towne for the greatnesse and frequency thereof hath deserved to have a Major and six Aldermen yet hath it but a Chappell and no more and the same made of timber unlesse it bee the quire and a little Towre-steeple which acknowledgeth Astbury about two miles off her mother-Church which verily is a very faire Church the West Porch whereof is equall in height to the very Church as high as it is and hath a spire steeple adjoyning thereto In the Church-yard lie two portraictures of Knights upon Sepulchres in whose Shields are two barres But for that they be without their colours hardly can any man say whether of the Breretons Manwarings or Venables which are the most noble Families in those parts and indeed such Barres doe they beare in their Coates of Armes but in divers colours Then commeth Daven to Davenport commonly Damport which hath adopted into her owne name a notable family and Holmeschappell a Towne well knowne to waifaring men where within the remembrance of our Grandfathers I. Needham built a Bridge Neere unto which at Rudheath there was sometimes a place of refuge and Sanctuary as well for the Inhabitants of this Shire as strangers who had trespassed against the lawes that there they might abide in security for a yeere and a day Then runneth it under Kinderton the old seat of the ancient race of the Venables who ever since the first comming in of the Normans have been of name and reputation here and commonly are called Barons of Kinderton Beneath this Southward the little river Croco runneth also into Dan which flowing out of the Poole called Bagmere passeth by Brereton which as it hath given name to the worshipful ancient and numerous family of the Breretons knights so Sir William Brereton knight hath of late added very much credit and honour to the place by a magnificent and sumptuous house that hee hath there built A wonder it is that I shall tell you and yet no other than I have heard verified upon the credit of many credible persons and commonly beleeved That before any heire of this house of the Breretons dyeth there bee seene in a Poole adjoyning bodies of trees swimming for certaine daies together Like unto that which Leonardus Vairus reporteth from the testimony of Cardinall Granvell namely that neere unto the Abbay of Saint Maurice in Burgundy there is a fish-pond in which are fishes put according to the number of the Monkes of that place And if any one of them happen to bee sicke there is a fish seene also to floate and swimme above the water halfe dead and if the Monke shall dye the said fish a few daies before dieth As touching these matters if they bee true I wrote not what to say for I am no Wisard to interpret such strange wonders But these and such like things are done either by the holy trutelar Angels of men or else by the devils who by Gods permission mightily shew their power in this inferiour world For both the sorts of them being intelligent natures upon a deliberate purpose and to some certaine end and not for nought worke strange things The Angels seeke after and aime at the safety and health of man-kinde the devils contrariwise plot to mischieve vexe or else to delude them But all this may seeme impertinent to our purpose Croke the
Riveret aforesaid being past Brereton within a while after visiteth Middlewich neere unto his confluence with Dan where there bee two Welles of sale water parted one from the other by a small Brooke Sheatbes they call them the one stands not open but at certaine set times because folke willingly steale the Water thereof as beeing of greater vertue and efficacy From hence runneth Dan to Bostoke in times past Botestoc the ancient seat of the Family of the Bostokes Knights which by the marriage with Aâ—ne onely Daughter of Raulph sonne of heire to Sir Adam Bostokes knight passed together with a very great livelode unto Sir John Savage Out of this ancient house of the Bostokes as out of a stocke sprung a goodly number of the same name in Ches-shire Shropp-shire Barkshire and elsewhere When as Dan now beneath Northwich that I spake of hath united his steame with Wever then Wever runneth forthright and taketh in from the East Pever that floweth hard by Pever and giveth it the name where that ancient notable Family of Meinilwarin commonly Manewaring is seated out of which Raulph married the daughter of Hugh Kevelioc Earle of Chester as appeareth by an old Charter in the custody of Ranulph the heire now of the samehouse From thence speedeth Wever by Winington which gave both habitation and name to the renowned family of the Winingtons and not farre from Merbury which being so called of a Mere under it conferred likewise the name upon that respective ancient Family of the Merburies Hence the River holdeth on his course neere unto Dutton the Inheritance of that great and worthy Family of Duttons who derive their descent from one Hudard allied to the Earles of Chester and who by an old order and custome have great authority over all the pipers fidlers and minstrels of this Province ever since that one of the Duttons a young Gentleman full of spirit and active withall having hastily gathered a tumultuary power of those kinde of people valiantly delivered Ranulph the last Earle of Chester from danger when hee was beset with Welsh enemies Neither must I passe over in silence Nether Whitley in this tract out of which came the Tuschetts or Towchetts who are now Barons Audley By this time Wever aforesaid flowing betweene Prodesham a Castle of ancient note and Clifton now Rock-Savage an house of the Savages new built who here by marriage attained to rich and faire revenewes entreth at length into Mersey mouth And this is so called of the River Mersey which running as a bounder betweene Ches-shire and Lancashire is there at length discharged into the Sea after it hath among other small townes of meaner note watered Stockport which had sometime a Baron of the Earles of Chester and Warburgton so named of S. Werburgh the habitation of a family thereof sirnamed but branched from the Duttons Hereby it entertaineth the River Bollin out of that spacious Forest of Maclesfield Upon this Bollin standeth Maclesfield one of the fairest Townes of this Country which gave name unto that Forest where T. Savage first Bishop of London and afterwards Archbishop of Yorke built a College wherein some of that Race of the Savages lye entombed also Dunham which from Sir Hamon of Masey by the Fittones and Venables descended hereditarily unto the Family of Booth From thence Mersey commeth to Thelwall before it bee farre past Knotsford that is Canutus his Foord which is divided into the upper and the nether also to Lee from whence there is a Family bearing the same sirname that is not onely of gentle bloud and of especiall note but also farre and fairely propagated into a number of branches As for Thelwall now it is an obscure Village but in times past a large Towne built by King Edward the elder and so called as Florilegus witnesseth of bodies of trees the boughes being cut off firmely fastened in the ground wherewith hee walled it round For the Saxons in their tongue called the Trunkes and bodies of Trees 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and a Wall as wee doe now At the very mouth of the River standeth Runkborne founded in the same age by Lady Edelflede commonly called Eâ—fled and brought now by the mutability of time to a few cotages This lady Edelfleda to tell you at once of whom I have oft made mention sister to K. Edward the elder and wife to Ethelred a peâ—y King of the Mercians after her husbands death governed the Mercians in most dangerous and troublesome times for eight yeeres with high commendation touching whom these laudatory Verses in praise of her wee reade in the History of Henry of Huntingdon O Elfleda potens ô terror virgo virorum Victrix naturae nomine digna viri Te quo splendidior fieres natura puellam Te probitas fecit nomen habere viri Te mutare decet sed solam nomina sexus Tu regina potens Rexque trophaea parans Jam nec Caesarci tantum meruere triumphi Caesare splendidior virgo virago vale O mighty Elfled vigin pure that men do'st terrifie And nature passe right worthy thou in name man to be To grace thee more dame Nature once thee shap'd a maiden brave But vertue thee hath caused now the name of man to have It thee becomes but thee alone the name of Sex to change Of great Queenes and triumphant Kings thou standest in the range From Caesars triumphes for desert thou bear'st away the bell No Caesar ever was thy match Thus Manly-maide fare well Beneath Runckhorne somewhat within the Country Haulton the Towne and Castle both shew themselves which Hugh Lupus Earle of Chester gave unto Niel a Norman to be by tenure and service Constable of Chester by whose posterity through the variable change of times it is come unto the House of Lancaster Neither would this be overpassed in silence that William the said Nieles sonne founded the Abbay adjoyning at Norton which now appertaineth to the Broks of ancient descent Whether I should place in this Shire or elsewhere the CANGI an ancient Nation of Britans that have beene so much and so long sought for I have as long and as much doubted For continuance of time hath now so obscured them that hitherto by no footings they could be traced and found out And albeit Justus Lipsius that Flower of exquisite learning taketh mee for a Judge heerein I frankly confesse I know not what judgement to give and rather would I commend this office of judging to any other man than assume it to my selfe Yet neverthelesse if CEANGI and CANGI were the same as why not it may bee probable enough that they were seated in this tract For whiles I perused these my labours I understood by some of good credit that there were heere upon the very shore gotten out of the ground twenty sowes of lead long in forme but foure square On the upper part whereof in an hollow surface is to be read this
now spoiling and harrying the whole Island and Vortigern had withdrawne himselfe into these parts Pascentius his sonne ruled all as Lord by the permission of Aurelius Ambrose as Ninnius writeth who in his Chapter of Mervails reporteth I wot not what wondrous thing heere of a heape of stones wherein forsooth was plainly to be seene the footing of King Arthurs hound And as for Hay which in British is called Trekethle that is The Towne in a grove of Hasell trees in the very utmost skirt of this Shire next unto Hereford-shire it standeth hard by the river Wye well knowne as it seemeth to the Romans whose coines is often digged up there and it sheweth also by the ruines that in old time it was walled But being now as it were decaied it complaineth of that most lewde Rebell Owen Glendowerdwy for his furious outrages who in wasting and spoiling all those Countries most villanously did depopulate it and set it on fire As this River Wy washeth the North side of this Shire so doth Vske a notable River likewise runne through the middest thereof which Vske springing out of the Blacke-Mountaine passeth along with a shallow streame beside Brechnock the Shire Towne standing in the very heart in manner of the Country which the Britans call Aber-Hodney because the two Rivers Hodney and Uske doe meet in that place That this Towne was inhabited in the Romans time appeareth by the Coines of Roman Emperours now and then digged up heere Bernard Newmarch who conquered this little Shire built heere a goodly great Castle which the Breoses and Bohuns repaired and in our fathers remembrance King Henry the Eighth in the Friery of the Dominicans appointed a Collegiat Church of foureteene Prebendaries which hee translated hither from Aberguilly in Caer-Marden-shire Two miles hence Eastward there spreads it selfe abroad a large Poole which the Britans call Linsavethan and Linsavathen that is A Lake of standing water Giraldus tearmeth it Clamosum that is Clamorous or Crying loud because it maketh a strange noise like thunder as often as the Yce thereon doth thaw In English we name it Brecknock-Meere Two miles it is in length and as much in bredth breeding in times past many Otters now full of Pearches Tenches and Eeles which the Fishers rowing in small pliant botes doe take Leveney a little River after it is runne into this Poole keepeth his owne hew and color still by himselfe as disdaining to be mingled therewith which the very color sheweth is thought to carry out his owne water entertained a while there by the way and no more than hee brought in with him It hath beene a currant speech of long continuance among the neighbours thereabout that where now the Meere is there was in times past a City which being swallowed up in an earthquake resigned up the place unto the waters And beside other reasons they alleage this for one that all the high waies of this shire come directly hither on every side Which if it be true what other City should a man thinke stood by the River Leveney than LOVENTIUM which Ptolomee placeth in this tract and in no place hitherto could I finde it albeit I searched diligently for it either by the name or situation or ruines remaining Marianus Scotus which I had almost forgotten seemeth to call this Lake Bricenaâ— Meere who recordeth that Edelfled the Mercian Lady in the yeere 913. entred into the land of the Britans to win by assault a Castle at Bricenau Meere and that she tooke there the King of the Britans wife prisoner Whether this Castle were Brechnock it selfe or Castle Dinas which standeth over it upon a rockey hill and which the higher it riseth the slenderer and smaller it becommeth it is not certainely knowne But that Blean Laveney Castle hard by was the chiefe place of the Barony that Petre Fitz Herbert the sonne of Herbert Lord of Dean-forest by Lucy the daughter of Miles Earle of Hereford held appeareth evidently upon Record In the Raigne of King William Rufus Bernard Newmarch the Norman a man both hardy and politique withall having levied a great Army of Englishmen and Normans together was the first that entred into this territory by force and armes won it and wrested it out of the Welshmens hands by bloudy encounters raised fortresses heere for his fellow souldiers among which the chiefe were the Aubreeis Gunters Haverds Waldbeofes and Prichards allotted lands and lordships and that hee might set sure footing and establish his seat among the Welsh who repined maliciously at him he tooke to wife Nesta the daughter of Gruffin who being a woman of a shamelesse and revengefull spirit both bereft her selfe of her owne good name and also defeated her sonne of his inheritance For when Mahel the said Bernards onely sonne did shake up in som hard and sharpe termes a young Gentleman with whom she used more familiarly than was beseeming shee as the Poet saith iram atque animos à crimine sâ—mens growing angry and stomackfull upon this imputation tooke her corporall oath before King Henry the Second and protested that her sonne Mahel was begotten in adultery and not by Bernard her Husband whereupon Mahel being disinherited Sibyl his sister entred upon that faire Inheritance and with the same enriched her Husband Miles Earle of Hereford But after that five sonnes of Miles died without issue this Brechnock-shire in the partition of the inheritance fell to Bertha his daughter who by Philip de Breos had a sonne William de Breos Lord of Brechnock upon whom the seditious spirit and shrewd tongue of his wife drew a world of calamities For when shee had with her intemperate and unbridled language contumeliously abused King John the King thereupon because her Husband William was very deepely indebted unto him fell to bee quicke and rigorous in demanding the debt But he not able to make payment after he had shifted it off many times and by breaking day still made default in the end mortgaged unto the King three of his Castles namely Hay Brecknock and Radnor and put them into his hands But soone after levying certaine forces such as he could muster up in haste upon a suddaine surprised them slew the Garison Souldiers and wrested the said peeces perforce from them burnt the Towne of Lemster and thus killing slaying and driving away booties he made foule worke and havocke every way with all such outrages as Rebels doe commonly commit But when the King pursued him hee conveyed himselfe and all that he had into Ireland complotted and combined with the Kings enemies there yet under a colour as if hee would make submission hee came unto the King upon protection and assurance given of safety when he was upon his returne into Ireland And notwithstanding many goodly promises of the contrary he raised new stirres and troubles eftsoones in Wales But forced in the end to leave his native Country he died a banished man
the earth which had lien covered many ages before was discovered Also the trunkes of trees standing in the very Sea that had aforetime been lopped on every side yea and the strokes of axes as if they had been given but yesterday were seene apparantly Yea and the earth shewed most blacke and the wood withall of the said trunkes like in all the points to Hebeny so as it seemed now no shore but a lopped grove as well empaired through the wonderfull changes of things either haply from the time of Noahs floud or long after but doubtlesse long agoe as worne by little and little and so swallowed up with the rage of the Sea getting alwaies more ground and washing the earth away Neither were these two lands severed here with any great Sea betweene as may appeare by a word that King William Rufus cast out who when he kenned Ireland from the rocks and cliffes of this Promontory said as we read in Giraldus that he could easily make a bridge with English Sips on which he might passe over the Sea on foote into Ireland A noble kinde of Falcons have their Airies here and breed in the Rocks which King Henry the Second as the same Giraldus writeth was wont to preferre before all others For of that kinde are those if the inhabitants thereby doe not deceive me which the skilfull Faulconers call Peregrines for they have that I may use no other words than the verses of Augustus Thuanus Esmerius that most excellent Pâ—et of our age in that golden booke entituled HIERACOSOPHIOY Depressus capitis vertex oblongique totâ— Corpore pennarum series pallentia crura Et graciles digiti ac sparsi naresque rotundae Head flat and low the plume in rewes along The body laid legges pale and wan are found With slender clawes and talons there among And those wide spread the bill is hooked round But from this Promontory as the land draweth backward the Sea with great violence and assault of waters inrusheth upon a little Region called Keimes which is reputed a Barony In it standeth First Fishgard so called in English of the taking of fish in British Abergwain that is the mouth of the River Gwain situate upon a steepe Cliffe where there is a very commodious harbour and rode for Ships then Newport at the foote of an high Mountaine by the River Neverns side in British Tref-draeth i. the Towne upon the sands and in Latine Records Novus Burgus which Martin of Tours built his posterity made an incorporation adorned with priviledges and set over it for governement a Portgreve and Bailive erected also for themselves a Castle over the Towne which was their principall seate Who founded likewise Saint Dogmales Abbay according to the order of Tours by the River Tivy low in a vale environed with hils unto which the Borrough adjoyning as many other Townes unto Monasteries is beholden for the originall thereof This Barony Martin of Tours first wrested out of the Welsh mens hands by force and armes from whose heires successively called Martins it came by marriage to the Barons of Audley who held it a long time untill that in the reigne of Henry the eighth William Owen that derived his pedigree from a daughter of Sir Nicholas Martin Knight after long suit in law for his right in the end obtained it and left it to his sonne George who being a singular lover of venerable antiquity hath informed me that in this Barony ouer and above three Borroughs Newport Fishgard and Saint Dogmaels there are twenty Knights fees and twenty sixe Parishes More inward upon the River Tivy aforesaid is Kilgarran which sheweth the reliques of a Castle built by Girald but being at this day reduced unto one onely street it is famous for nothing else but the most plentifull fishing of Salmon For there have you that notable Salmon Leap where the River from on high falleth downright and the Salmons from out of the Ocean coveting to come up further into the River when they meete with this obstacle in the way bend backe their taile to the mouth other whiles also to make a greater leap up hold fast their taile in the mouth and as they unloose themselves from such a circle they give a jerk as if a twig bended into a rondle were sudainely let goe and so with the admiration of the beholders mount and whip themselves aloft from beneath as Ausonius hath most elegantly written Nec te paniceo rutilantem viscere Salma Transierim latae cujus vaga verbera caudae Gurgite de medio summas reseruntur in undas Nor can I thee let passe all red within Salmon that art whose jerkes and friskes full oft From mids of streame and chanell deepe therein With broad taile flirt to floating waves aloft There have beene divers Earles of Pembroke out of sundry houses As for Arnulph of Montgomery who first wonne it and was afterwards outlawed and his Castellan Girald whom King Henry the First made afterward President over the whole Country I dare searcely affirme that they were Earles The first that was stiled Earle of Penbroke was Gilbert sirnamed Strongbow sonne of Gislebert de Clare in the time of King Stephen And hee left it unto his sonne Richard Strongbow the renowned Conquerour of Ireland who as Giraldus saith was descended ex clarâ Clarentium familiâ that is out of the noble Family of Clare or Clarence His onely daughter Isabell brought the same honour to her Husband William named Mareschall for that his Ancestours had beene by inheritance Mareschals of the Kings Palace a man most glorious both in warre and peace and Protector of the Kingdome in the minority of King Henry the Third Concerning whom this pithie Epitaph is extant in Rodburns Annales Sum quem Saturnum sibi sensit Hibernia Solem Anglia Mercurium Normannia Gallia Martem Whom Ireland once a Saturne found England a Sunne to be Whom Normandy a Mercurie and France Mars I am he After him his five sonnes were successively one after another Earles of Penbroke viz. William called The younger Richard who after hee had rebelled against King Henry the Third went into Ireland where hee was slaine in battaile Gilbert who in a Tournament at Ware was unhorsed and so killed Walter and Anselme who enjoyed the honour but a few dayes who every one dying in a short space without issue King Henry the Third invested in the honour of this Earledome William de Valentia of the house of Lusignian in Poicta his brother by the mother side who had to wife Joan the daughter of Gwarin de Mont-chensy by the daughter of the foresaid William Mareschall After William of Valence succeeded his sonne Aimar who under King Edward the First was Regent of Scotland whose eldest sister Elizabeth and one of his heires wedded unto John Lord Hastings brought this Dignity unto a new Family For Laurence Hastings his grandsonne Lord of Welshford and Abergevenny was made Earle of
Countries to present three hundred Wolves yeerely unto him by way of Tribute For when as William of Malmesbury writeth he had for three yeeres performed this at the fourth yeere he gave over upon his protestation that hee could finde no more Yet long time after this there remained some still as appeareth for certaine by irreproveable testimonies of Record The inhabitants who for the most part wholly betake themselves to breeding and feeding of cattaile and live upon white meaâ—es as butter cheese c. how ever Strabo mocked our Britans in times past as unskilfull in making of cheese are for stature cleere complexion goodly feature and lineaments of body inferiour to no Nation in Britain but they have an ill name among their neighbours for being too forward in the wanton love of women and that proceeding from their idlenesse They have but few townes Eastward where Dovy runneth standeth Mouthwy a Commot very well knowne which fell for a childes part of inheritance to William alias Wilcock of Mouthwy a younger sonne of Gruffeth Ap Gwenwynwin Lord of Powis and by his sons daughter it came unto Sir Hugh Burgh and by his sonnes daughters likewise unto the Families of Newport Leighton Lingein and Mitton of especiall respect in these parts Where the â—iver Avon runneth downe more Westward there is Dolegethle a little mercat towne so called of the Vale wherein it is built Hard by the sea in the little territory named Ardudwy the Castle Arlech in times past named Caer Colun standeth advanced upon a very steepe rocke and looketh downe into the sea from aloft which being built as the Inhabitants report by King Edward the First tooke name of the situation For Arlech in the British tongue signifieth as much as upon a Stony rocke Whiles England was disjointed and lay torne with civill broiles David Ap Ienkin Ap Enion a noble Gentleman of Wales who tooke part with the house of Lancaster defended it stoutly against King Edward the Fourth untill that Sir William Herbert Earle of Pembrock making his way with much adoe through the midst of these mountaines of Wales no lesse passable than the Alpes assaulted this Castle in such furious thundering manner that it was yeelded up into his hands Incredible it is almost what a cumbersome journey hee had of it and with what difficulty hee gat through whiles he was constrained in some places to climbe up the hilles creeping in others to come downe tumbling both he and his company together Whereupon the dwellers thereabout call that way at this day Le Herbert A little higher in the very confines of the Shires two notable armes of the Sea enbosome themselves within the Land Traith Maur and Traith Bachan that is The greater Wash and the lesse And not farre from hence neere unto a little Village called Fastineog there is a street or Port-way paved with stone that passeth through these cumberâ—ome and in manner unpassable Mountaines Which considering that the Britans name it Sarn Helen that is Helens Street it is not to be thought but that Helena mother to Constantine the Great who did many such like famous workes throughout the Romane Empire laied the same with stone Neither standeth farre from it Caer-Gai that is The Castle of Caius built by one Caius a Roman touching whom the common people dwelling thereby report great wonders In the East side of the Shire the River Dee springeth out of two Fountaines whence some thinke it tooke the name for they call it Dwy which word importeth also among them the number of two although others would needs have it so tearmed of some Divinity other of the blacke colour and forthwith passeth entire and whole through Lhintegid in English Pimble-Meare and Plenlin-Meare a Lake spreading farre in length and breadth and so runneth out of it with as great a streame as it entred in For neither shall a man see in Dee the fishes called Guiniad which are peculiar to the Meare nor yet Salmons in the Meare which neverthelesse are commonly taken in the River But see if you please the description of this Lake or Meare in verse by the Antiquarian Poet. Hispida quà tellus Mervinia respicit Eurum Est locus antiquo Penlinum nomine dictus Hîc lacus illimeis in valle Tegeius alta Latè expandit aquas vastum conficit orbem Excipiens gremio latices qui fonte perenni Vicinis recidunt de montibus atque sonoris Illecebris captas demulcent suaviter aures Illud habet certè lacus admirabile dictu Quantumvis magna pluvia non astuat atqui Aëre turbato si ventus murmura tollat Excrescit subito rapidis violentior undis Et tumido superat contempias flumine ripas On th' East side of Merioneth a Country rough that is A place there lies by ancient name cleped Penlin ywis Whereas within a Valley deepe there spreadeth farre a Lake With waters cleere without all mud which compasse huge doth take Receiving sundry pirles to it and many a running rill That spring and fall continually from every neighbour hill And with shrill noise and pleasant sounds allured eares doe fill And verily a wonder't is of this Lake strange to tell Although the raine powre downe amaine the waters never swell But if the aire much troubled be and windes aloft doe blow It swelles at once no streame so much and bankes doth overflow On the browe or edge heereof standeth Bala a little Towne endowed with many immunities but peopled with few inhabitants and as rudely and unhandsomely built neverthelesse it is the chiefe Mercate Towne for these Mountainers Hugh Earle of Chester was the first of the Normans that tooke this Country and held it with planting Garisons what time as he kept Gruffin Ap Conan that is the sonne of Conan prisoner But Gruffin afterwards recovered it with the rest of his Principality and left it unto his heires untill it came unto the fatall Periode and so ended in Lhewellin It reckoneth Churches 37. CAERNARVOÌ„ Comitatus pars olim ORDOVICVM CAERNARVON-SHIRE ABove Merionith-shire lieth that Country which the Britans call Sire Caer-ar-von and English men CAER-NARVON-SHIRE of the principall Towne therein and before that Wales was laied out into Shires they tearmed it by the name of Snowden-Forest and the Latine Historians Snaudonia of that Forest and Ar-vonia out of the British name because it hath Mona that is Anglesey just over against it The North side and the West butteth upon the Irish Sea the South-side is enclosed with Merioneth-shire and the East with Denbigh-shire from which it is severed by the River Conwy On that part which looketh toward the Sea especially where it shooteth forth a great way South-west with a Promontorie and stretcheth out the shores with crooked turning full against OCTOPITARUM or Saint Davids Land it is of a very fruitfull soile and garnished all a long with prety Townes As for the more in-land
land of Mon and Ynis Dowil that is A shadowy or darke Island of the ancient Anglo-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and at last after that the English men became Lords of it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ea and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as one would say The English mens Island being severed from the Continent of Britaine with the small narrow streight of Menai and on all parts besides beaten upon with that surging and troublous Irish Sea lieth in forme unequall in length from East to West reaching out twenty miles in breadth scarce seventeene And albeit as Giraldus saith the ground may seeme dry and stonie nothing sightly and unpleasant and for the outward qualitie resembleth wholy the land Pebidiaâ—c that lieth hard unto Saint Davids yet for the inward gift of nature it is farre unlike For above all the Coasts of Wales it is without comparison most plentifull of Wheat in so much as by way of a Proverbe they are wont to say of it in the Welsh language Mon Mam Cymbry which is as much in English As Mon is the mother of Wales because when all other Countries round about doe faile this alone with the exceeding fat soile and plentifull encrease of Corne was wont to sustaine all Wales In Cattaile also it is passing rich and sendeth out great multitudes It yeeldeth also Grind stones and in some place an earth standing upon Alum out of which some not long since beganne to make Alum and Coperose But when they saw it not answerable to their expectation at first without any farther hope they gave over their enterprise This is that most notable Isle MONA the ancient seat of the Druides attempted first by Paulinus Suetonius and brought under the Romane Empire by Iulius Agricola This Suetonius Paulinus under the reigne of Nero as Tacitus writeth made all preparation to invade the Isle Mona inhabited by a strong and stout Nation and then the receptacle of Fugitives He built Flat-bothom vessels because the Sea is shalow the landing-shore uncertaine Thus their footmen passed over and after them the Horsemen following by the shallow fourd or swimming where the waters were deepe with their Horses Against them stood the Enemies armies on the shore thicke set in aray well appoynted with Men and weapons and Women also running in to and fro among them like furies of Hell in mourning attyre their hayre about their eares and with firebrands in their hands Round about them also were the Druida who lifting up their hands to Heaven and powring out deadly curses with the strangenesse of the sight so daunted the Souldiers as they stood stock-still and not able to stirre their joynts presented their bodies unto wounds At length what with the exhortation of their Captaine and what with encouraging and animating one another not to feare a flocke of Franticke Women and fanaticall persons they displaied and advaunced forward their Ensignes Downe they goe with all in their way and thrust them within their owne fires Which done Garisons were placed in their Townes and the Groves consecrated to their cruell Superstitions cut downe For they accounted it lawfull to Sacrifice with the bloud of Captives and by inspection of Mens fibres and bowels to know the will of their gods But as Paulinus was busie in these exploits newes came unto him of a sudden revolt through the whole Province which stayed his enterprise Afterwards as the same Tacitus writeth Iulius Agricola purposed with himselfe to subdue the Island Mona from the possession whereof as I said before Paulinus was revoked by a generall rebellion of all Britaine But as in a purpose not prepensed before vessels being wanting the policie and resolutenesse of the Captaine devised a passage over causing the most choise of the Auxiliaries to whom all the shallowes were knowne and who after the use of their Country were able in Swimming to governe themselves with their Armour and Horses laying aside their carriage to put over at once and suddenly to invade them Which thing so amazed the Enemies who supposed they would passe over by Shipping and therefore attended for a Fleet and the tide that they beleeved verily nothing could be hard or invincible to men that came so resolute to Warre Whereupon they humbly intreated for Peace and yeelded the Island Thus by this service Agricola became famous indeed and of great reputation Many ages after it was Conquered by the English men and tooke their name as being called in old time in the Saxons language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now commonly Anglesey as one would say The English mens Island But seeing that Humfrey Lhuid in a very learned Epistle to that learned Ortelius hath restored this Island to the due name and dignitie there is no reason that any man heere should require my diligence Yet thus much will I adde unto the rest When the Empire of the Romanes in Britaine now was in declining and going downward some out of Ireland entred in by stealth into this Isle also and nestled there For besides certaine Mounts of earth entrenched about which they call The Irish mens cotages there is a place also named Yn Hericy Gwidil of the Irish men who as we finde it recorded in the booke of Triades under the leading of Sirigus put the Britans to flight in that place Neither was it grievously infested onely by the English men but also by the Norvegians Likewise in the yeere of our redemption 1000. King Aethelreds fleete having skoured the Seas round about the said Isle wasted it in all hostile maner After this the two Norman Hughes the one Earle of Chester and the other Earle of Shrewsburie greatly afflicted it and built Castle Aber-Llienioc for to restraine and keepe under the Inhabitants But Magnus the Norwegian arriving heere at the very same time shot the said Hugh Earle of Shrewsbury through with an Arrow and after he had ransacked the Island departed The English men moreover afterward from time to time invaded it untill that King Edward the First brought it wholly under his subjection There were in ancient time reckoned in it 363. Villages and even at this day it is well peopled The principall Towne therein at this time is Beaumarish which King Edward the First built in the East-side of the Isle vpon a marish ground and for the situation thereof gave it this goodly faire name whereas before time it was called Bonover who also fortified it with a Castle which notwithstanding may seeme never to have been finished the Governour whereof is the right Worshipfull Sir Richard Bulkley Knight whose courtesie toward me when I came to visite these places I cannot chuse but evermore acknowledge with most hearty thankfulnesse Hard unto Beau-Marish lieth Lhan-vays a famous religious house in times past of the Friers Minors unto whom the Kings of England shewed themselves very bountifull Patrons as well in regard of the Friers holinesse who there conversed as also because there that I may speake out of
some places Barley in others Wheat but generally throughout Rye with twenty fold encrease and better and afterwards foure or five Crops together of Otes In the Confines of this Shire and Denbigh-shire where the hilles grow more flat and plaine with a softer fall and an easier descent downe into the Vale in the very gullet and entry thereof the Romanes placed a little City named VARIS which Antonine the Emperour placeth nineteene miles from CONOVIUM This without any maime of the name is called at this day Bod-Vari that is Mansion Vari and the next little hill hard by which the inhabitants thereabout commonly call Moyly Gaer that is The Mountaine of the City sheweth the footings of a City indeed that hath beene destroyed But what the name should signifie it appeareth not I for my part have beene of opinion elsewhere that Varia in the old British language signified a Passage and accordingly have interpreted these words Durnovaria and Isannaevaria The passage of a water and the passage of Isanna And for this opinion of mine maketh well the situation of VARIS in that place where onely there lyeth open an easie passage betwixt the hilles And not three miles from hence standeth Caer-wisk the name whereof although it maketh some shew of Antiquity yet found I nothing ancient there nor worth the observation Beneath this VARIS or Bodvari in the vale glideth Cluid and streightwayes Elwy a little Rivereâ— conjoyneth it selfe with it where there is a Bishops See This place the Britans call according to the River Llan-Elwy the Englishmen of Asaph the Patron thereof Saint Asaph And the Historiographers Asaphensis Neither is the Towne for any beauty it hath nor the Church for building or bravery memorable yet something would be said of it in regard of Antiquity For about the yeere of our Redemption 560. Kentigern Bishop of Glasco being fled hither out of Scotland placed heere a Bishops See and erected a Monastery having gathered together sixe hundred threescore and three in a religious brotherhood Whereof three hundred being unlearned did give themselves to husbandry and as many moe to worke and labour within the Monastery the rest to Divine Service Whom hee divided so by Covents that some of them should continually give attendance in the Church to the scervie of God But when he returned into Scotland he ordain'd Asaph a most godly and upright man Governor over this Monastery of whom it tooke the name which now it hath The Bishop of this See hath under his Jurisdiction about 128. Parishes the Ecclesiasticall Benefices whereof were wont to bee bestowed when the See was voide by the Archbishop of Canterbury without interruption untill the time of King Henry the Eighth and that by his Archiepiscopall right which now is counted a Regality For so we reade in the History of Canterbury Above this Ruthlan taking the name of the ruddy and red banke of Câ—uid on which it stands maketh a good shew with a Castle but now almost consumed by very age Lhewellin Ap Sisil Prince of Wales first built it and Robert sirnamed de Ruthland Nephew of Hugh Earle of Chester was the first that by force wonne it from the Welsh as being Captaine Lieutenant to the said Hugh who fortified it with new workes and bulwarkes Afterward as Rob. Abbat de Monte hath written King Henry the Second when hee had repaired this Castle gave it unto Hugh Beauchamp Beneath this Cluid streightwayes emptieth it selfe into the Sea And albeit the Valley at the very mouth seemeth to carry a lower levell and to lye under the Sea yet the water never overfloweth into the Vale but as it were by a naturall obstacle staâ—eth within the very brinkes of the shore not without the exceeding great admiration of Gods Providence From hence the shore tending by little and little Eastward shooteth forward first by Disart Castle so called because it was situate on the rising of a cliffe or as some would have it as it were Desert then by Basing werke which also King Henry the Second granted unto Hugh Beauchamp Beneath this wee saw the little Towne Haly-well as one would say holy well where there is that fountaine frequented by Pilgrimes for the memoriall of the Christian Virgin Winefride ravished there perforce and beheaded by a Tyranne as also for the mosse there growing of a most sweet and pleasant smell Out of which Well there gusheth forth a Brooke among stones which represent bloudy spottes upon them and it carryeth so violent a streame that presently it is able to drive a mill Over the very Well there standeth a Chappell built of stone right curiously wrought whereunto adjoyneth a little Church in a window whereof is portrayed and set out the History of the said Winefride how her head was cut off and set on againe by Saint Bennâ— Neere unto this place in the time of Giraldus who yet knew not this Well There was as himselfe writeth a rich Veine and gainefull Mine of silver where men in seeking after silver pierced and pried into the very bowels of the Earth This part of the Country because it smileth so pleasantly upon the beholders with a beautifull shew and was long since subject unto Englishmen the Welsh named Teg-Engle that is Faire England But whereas one hath tearmed it Tegenia and thought that the Igeni there planted themselves take heede I advise you that you be not overhasty to beleeve him Certes the name of the Iceni wrong put downe here deceived the good man Then upon the shore you may see Flint Castle which King Henry the Second beganne and King Edward the First finished and it gave the name unto this Shire where King Richard the Second circumvented by them who should have beene most trusty was cunningly induced to renounce the Crowne as unable for certaine defects to rule and was delivered into the hands of Henry of Lancaster Duke of Hereford who soone after claimed the Kingdome and Crowne being then voide by his cession as his inheritance descended from King Henry the Third and to this his devised claime the Parliament assented and hee was established in the Kingdome After Flint by the East border of the Shire neere to Chesshire standeth Hawarden commonly called Harden-Castle not farre from the shore out of which when David Lhewellins brother had led away prisoner Roger Clifford Iustice of Wales hee raised thereby a most bloudy Warre against himselfe and his people wherein the Princedome of the Welsh Nation was utterly overthrowne But this Castle anciently holden by the Seneschalship of the Earles of Chester was the seat of the Barons de Mount-hauls who grew up to a most honourable family and gave for their Armes in A Shield Azure a Lion rampant Argent and bettered their dignity and estate by marriage with Cecily one of the coheires of Hugh D'Albeney Earle of Arundell But in the end for default of male issue Robert the
last Baron of this race made it over as I have said already to Isabell Queene of England wife to King Edward the Second Howbeit the possession of the Castle was transferred afterward to the Stanleys now Earles of Darby Through the South part of this Shire lying beneath these places above named wandereth Aleâ— a little River neere unto which in an hill hard by Kilken a small village there is a Well The water whereof at certaine set times riseth and falleth after the manner of the Sea-tides Upon this Alen standeth Hope Castle in Welsh Caer-Gurle in which King Edward the First retired himselfe when the Welshmen had upon the sudden set upon his souldiers being out of array and where good milstones are wrought out of the rocke also Mold in Welsh Guid Cruc a Castle belonging in ancient time to the Barons of Monthault both which places shew many tokens of Antiquity Neere unto Hope a certaine Gardiner when I was first writing this worke digging somewhat deepe into the ground happened upon a very ancient peece of worke concerning which there grew many divers opinions of sundry men But hee that will with any diligence reade M. Vitruvius Pollio shall very well perceive it was nothing else but a Stouph or hote house begunne by the Romanes who as their riotous excesse grew together with their wealth used Bathes exceeding much In length it was five elns in breadth foure and about halfe an eln deepe enclosed with Walles of hard stone the paving layed with bricke pargetted with lime morter the arched roofe over it supported with small pillars made of bricke which roofe was of tiles pargetted over likewise very smoothe having holes heere and there through it wherein were placed certaine earthen pipes of Potters worke by which the heate was conveyed and so as hee saith Volvebant hypocausta vaporem that is the Stuples did send away a waulming hote vapour And who would not thinke this was one of these kindes of worke which Giraldus wondered at especially in Isca writing thus as he did of the Romanes workes That saith hee which a man would judge among other things notable there may you see on every side Stouphs made with marveilous great skill breathing out heate closely at certaine holes in the sides and narrow tunnels Whose worke this was the tiles there did declare being imprinted with these words LEGIO XX. that is The twentieth Legion which as I have shewed already before abode at Chester scarce sixe miles a side from hence Neere unto this River Alen in a certaine streight set about with woods standeth Coles-hull Giraldus tearmeth it Carbonarium collem that is Coles Hill where when King Henry the Second had made preparation with as great care as ever any did to give Battaile unto the Welsh the English by reason of their disordered multitude drawing out their Battalions in their rankes and not ranged close in good array lost the Field and were defeited yea and the very Kings standerd was forsaken by Henry of Essex who in right of inheritance was Standerd-bearer to the Kings of England For which cause he being afterwards charged with treason and by his challenger overcome in combate had his goods confiscate and seized into the Kings hands and he displeased with himselfe for his cowardise put on a coule and became a Monke Another little parcell there is of this Shire on this side the River Dee dismembred as it were from this which the English call English Mailor Of this I treated in the County of Chester whiles I spake of Bangor and there is no reason to iterate the same heere which hath beene already spoken of before Neither doth it afford any thing in it worth the reporting unlesse it be Han-meere by ae Meres side whereof a right ancient and worshipfull Family there dwelling tooke their sirname The Earles of Chester as they skirmished by occasions and advantage of opportunity with the Welsh were the first Normans that brought this Country under their subjection whereupon wee reade in ancient Records The County of Flint appertaineth to the Dignity of the sword of Chester and the eldest sonnes of the K.K. of England were in old time stiled by the Title of Earles of Chester and of Flint But notwithstanding King Edward the First supposing it would bee very commodious both for the maintenance of his owne power and also to keepe under the Welsh held in his owne hands both this and all the sea Coast of Wales As for the in-land Countries he gave them to his Nobles as he thought good following herein the policie of the Emperour Augustus who undertooke himselfe to governe the Provinces that were strongest and lay outmost but permitted Proconsuls by lot to rule the rest Which he did in shew to defend the Empire but in very deed to have all the armes and martiall men under his owne command In this County of Flint there be Parishes in all 28. PRINCES OF WALES AS concerning the Princes of Wales of British bloud in ancient times you may reade in the Historie of Wales published in print For my part I thinke it requisite and pertinent to my intended purpose to set downe summarily those of latter daies descended from the Roiall line of England King Edward the First unto whom his Father King Henry the Third had graunted the Principalitie of Wales when hee had obtained the Crowne and Lhewellin Ap. Gryffith the last Prince of the British race was slaine and thereby the sinnewes as it were of the Principalitie were cut in the twelfth yeere of his Reigne united the same unto the Kingdome of England And the whole Province sware fealty and allegeance unto Edward of Caernarvon his Sonne whom he made Prince of Wales But King Edward the Second conferred not upon his Sonne Edward the title of Prince of Wales but onely the name of Earle of Chester and of Flint so farre as I ever could learne out of the Records and by that title summoned him to Parliament being then nine yeeres old King Edward the Third first Created his eldest Sonne Edward surnamed the Blacke Prince the Mirour of Chivalry being then Duke of Cornwall and Earle of Chester Prince of Wales by solemne investure with a cap of estate and Coronet set on his head a gold ring put upon his finger and a silver vierge delivered into his hand with the assent of the Parliament who in the very floure of his martiall glory was taken away by untimely death too too soone to the universall griefe of all England Afterwards King Edward the Third invested with the said honour Richard of Burdeaux the said Princes Sonne as heire apparent to the Crowne who was deposed from his Kingdome by King Henry the Fourth and having no issue was cruelly dispatched by violent death The said King Henry the Fourth at the formall request of the Lords and Commons bestowed this Principalitie with the title of Chester and Flint with
game and hunting of red Deere being divided eft-soone speedeth himselfe on the one hand to Idel a River in Nottingham-shire on the other to Are that hee and they together may fall into Humber In which very place there are environed with these rivers Diche-marcâ— and Marshland little Mersh Countries or River-Islands rather taking up in circuit much about fifteene miles most plentifull of greene grasse passing good for feeding of Cattaile and on every side garnished as it were with prety Townes Yet some of the Inhabitants are of opinion that the land there is hollow and hanging yea and that as the waters rise the same also is heaved up a thing that Pomponius Mela hath written concerning Antrum an Isle in France But among those Beakes and Brookes that convey their streames hither I must not overpasse Went which floweth out of a standing Poole neere unto Nosthill where sometime stood an Abbay consecrated to Oswald both a King and a Saint which A. Confessour to King Henry the First reedified But since the dissolution it hath beene the dwelling house of the Gargraves Knights of especiall good respect Calder springing in the very Confines of Lancashire runneth along certaine Townes of no account among which at Gretland in the top of an Hill whereunto there is no ascent but of one side was digged up this Votive Altar erected as it should seeme to the tutelar God of the whole State of the Brigants which Altar was to bee seene at Bradley in the house of the right worshipfull Sir John Savill Knight Baron of the Exchequer but now among Sir Robert Cottons Antiquities On the other side DUI CI. BRIG ET NUM AUGG. T. AUR. AURELIAN US DD PRO SE ET SUIS S. M. A. G. S. ANTONINO III. ET GET COSS. That is To the God of the whole Communalty and state of the Brigantes and to the sacred Majesty of the Augusti Titus Aurelius Aurelianus hath dedicated for himselfe and his The letters that bee last of all passe my skill altogether When Antonine the third time and Geta were Consuls Now whether that DUI be God whom the Britans now call Diw or a peculiar locall God or Genius of the Brigantes I leave for to be discussed by them that are better learned Like as the soules are divided and distributed among them that are borne saith Symmachus even so are Fatall Genij among Nations And the divine minde allotteth sundry keepers and Guardians to particular Countries For thus they were in old time perswaded in their Divinity and thus they beleeved And to say nothing of forraine Nations whose History is very full of such peculiar and locall Gods the Britans had in that part which now is called ESSEX ANDATES in Cumberland BELLO-TUCADRUS in Northumberland VITERINUS and MOGONTUS as shall appeare more evidently out of those Inscriptions which I will set downe in due place Servius Honoratus likewise hath well and truely observed that these Locall or Topick Gods doe never passe unto other Countries But to returne unto the River Calder which when by the comming in of other waters hee is growne bigge and carryeth a fuller streame hath a faire Bridge over it at Eland neere unto which at Grimscarre were brickes found with this Inscription COH IIII. BRE For the Romanes flourishing in military prowesse in great wisedome and policie exercised both their Legions and Cohorts in time of peace to withstand Idlenesse by casting of ditches making of High-waies baking of brickes building of Bridges c. Calder afterward among the very Hilles leaveth on the left hand Halifax a most famous Towne lying from West to East upon the steepe descent of an Hill And not many ages since tooke it this name whereas before time it was called Horton as some of the Inhabitants doe report who tell this prety story also touching the alteration of the name A certaine Clerke as they call him was farre in love with a maiden who when hee might not have his purpose of her for all the faire meanes and enticements hee could use his love being turned unto rage vilanous Wretch that hee was cut off the Maides head which being hung afterwards upon an Eugh tree the common people counted as an hallowed Relique untill it was rotten yea and they came devoutly to visit it and every one gathered and carryed away with him a branch or sprig of the said tree But after the tree was bare and nothing left but the very stocke such was the credulity of that time it maintained the opinion of reverence and Religion still For the people were perswaded that the little veines that are stretched out and spred betweene the barke and body of the Eugh tree in manner of haires or fine threads were the very haires indeed of the Virgins head Hereupon they that dwelt thereabout repaired on Pilgrimage hither and such resort there was unto it that Horton being but a little Village before grew up to a great Towne and was called by a new name Halig-Fax or Hali-fex that is Holy haire For the Englishmen dwelling beyond Trent called the haire of the head Fax Whence also there is a Family in this Country of Gentlemen named Faire-fax of the faire bush of their haire They therefore which by resemblance of the name gather this to bee Ptolomees Olicana bee farre deceived Now this place is become famous as well among the multitude by reason of a Law there whereby they behead streightwaies whosoever are taken stealing as also amongst the learned for they report that Joannes de Sacro Bosco the Author of the Sphaere was here borne yet more famous it is for the greatnesse of the Parish which reckoneth in it eleven Chappels whereof two be Parish-Chappels and to the number of twelve thousand people therein So that the Inhabitants are wont to give out that this Parish of theirs maintaineth more men and women than other living creatures of what kinde soever Whereas you shall see elsewhere in England in the most fruitfull and fertile places many thousands of Sheepe and very few men as if folke had given place to flockes of Sheepe and heards of Neat or else were devoured of them Moreover the industry of the Inhabitants heere is admirable who in a barraine Soile wherein there is no commodious nay scarce any dwelling and living at all have so come up and flourished by Clothing a trade which they tooke to not above threescore and tenne yeeres agoe at the farthest that they greatly enrich their owne estates and winne the praise from all their neighbours yea and have proved the saying to be true That barraine places give a good edge to industrie and that hence it is that Norinberg in Germanie Venice and Genua in Italie and Limoges in France situate all in barraine places are become right flourishing Cities Sixe miles from hence and not farre from the right side of the River Calder neere unto Almond-bury a little Towne standing upon an
high and steepe Hill which hath no easie passage on even ground unto it but of one side are seene the manifest tokens of a Rampire some ruines of walles and of a Castle which was guarded about with a triple strength of Forts and Bulwarkes Some will have this also to have beene OLICANA But the trueth saith otherwise and namely that it is CAMBODUNUM which Ptolomee calleth amisse CAMULODUNUM and Beda by a word divided CAMPO-DUNUM This is prooved by the distance thereof on the one side from MANCUNIUM on the other from CALCARIA according to which Antonine placeth it Moreover it seemeth to have flourished in very great honour when the English Saxons first beganne to rule For the Kings Towne it was and had in it a Cathedrall Church built by Paulinus the Apostle of these parts and the same dedicated to Saint Alban whence in stead of Albon-bury it is now called Almon-bury But when Ceadwall the Britan and Penda the Mercian made sharpe warre upon Edwin the Prince of these Countries it was set on fire by the enemy as Beda writeth which the very adust and burnt colour as yet remaining upon the stones doth testifie Yet afterwards there was a Castle built in the same place which King Stephen as I have read confirmed unto Henry Lacy. Hard unto it lyeth Whitly the habitation of an ancient and notable Family of Beaumont which notwithstanding is different from that House of the Barons and Vicounts Beau-mont yet it was of great name in this Tract before their comming into England Calder now leaving these places behinde him and having passed by Kirkley an house in times past of religious Nunnes and the Tombe of Robin Hood that right good and honest Robber in which regard he is so much spoken of goeth to Dewsborrough seated under an high Hill Whether it had the name of DVI that tutelar God of the place of whom I wrote a little before I am not able to say Surely the name is not unlike for it soundeth as much as Duis Burgh and flourished at the very first infancy as it were of the Church springing up amongst the Englishmen in this Province for I have heard that there stood a Crosse heere with this Inscription PAULINUS HIC PRAEDICAVIT ET CELEBRAVIT that is PAULINUS HERE PREACHED AND CELEBRATED DIVINE SERVICE And that this Paulinus was the first Archbishop of Yorke about the yeere of our Redemption 626. all Chronicles doe accord From hence Calder running by Thornhill which from Knights of that sirname is descended to the Savills passeth hard by Wakefield a Towne famous for clothing for greatnesse for faire building a well frequented Mercate and a Bridge upon which King Edward the Fourth erected a beautifull Chappell in memoriall of those that lost their lives there in battaile The Possession sometime this was of the Earles of Warren and of Surry as also Sandall Castle adjoyning which John Earle of Warren who was alwaies fleshly lustfull built when he had used the wife of Thomas Earle of Lancaster more familiarly than honesty would require to the end he might deteine and keepe her in it securely from her Husband By this Townes side when the civill warre was hote heere in England and setled in the very bowels thereof Richard Duke of Yorke father to King Edward the Fourth who chose rather to hazard his fortune than to stay the good time thereof was slaine in the field by those that tooke part with the House of Lancaster The Tract lying heere round about for a great way together is called The Seigniory or Lordship of Wakefield and hath alwaies for the Seneschall or Steward one of the better sort of Gentlemen dwelling thereby Which Office the Savills have oftentimes borne who are heere a very great and numerous Family and at this day Sir John Savill Knight beareth it who hath a very sightly faire house not farre off at Howley which maketh a goodly shew Calder is gone scarce five miles farther when he betaketh both his water and his name also to the River Are. Where at their very meeting together standeth betweene them Medley in times past 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 so called for the situation as it were in the middest betweene two Rivers The seat it was in the age aforegoing of Sir Robert Waterton Master of the Horse to King Henry the Fourth but now of Sir John Savill a right worshipfull Knight and a most worthy Baron of the Kings Exchequer whom I acknowledge full gladly in his love and courtesie to have favoured me and out of his learning to have furthered this worke This river Are springing out of the bothom of the hill Pennigent which among the Westerne hils mounteth aloft above the rest doth forthwith so sport himselfe with winding in and out as doubtfull whether hee should returne backe to his spring-head or runne on still to the sea that my selfe in going directly forward on my way was faine to passe over it seven times in an houres riding It is so calme and milde and carryeth so gentle and slow a streame that it seemeth not to runne at all but to stand still whence I suppose it tooke the name For as I have said before Ara in the British tongue betokeneth Milde Still and Slow whereupon that slow River in France Araris hath his name The Country lying about the head of this River is called in our tongue Craven perchance of the British word Crage that is a Stone For the whole Tract there is rough all over and unpleasant to see to with craggy stones hanging rockes and rugged waies in the middest whereof as it were in a lurking hole not farre from Are standeth Skipton and lyeth hidden and enclosed among steepe Hilles in like manner as Latium in Italie which Varro supposeth to have beene so called because it lyeth close under Apennine and the Alpes The Towne for the manner of their building among these Hilles is faire enough and hath a very proper and a strong Castle which Robert de Rumeley built by whose posterity it came by inheritance to the Earles of Aumarle And when their inheritance for default of heires fell by escheat into the Kings hands Robert de Clifford whose heires are now Earles of Cumberland by way of exchange obtained of King Edward the Second both this Castle and also faire lands round about it every way delivering into the Kings hands in lieu of the same the possessions that he had in the Marches of Wales When Are is once past Craven hee spreadeth broader and passeth by more pleasant fields lying on each side of it and Kigheley among them which gave name to the worshipfull Family of Kigheley so sirnamed thereof Of which Family Henry Kigheley obtained of king Edward the First for this Manour of his The Liberty of a Mercate and Faire and free warren So that no man might enter into those lands to bunt and chace in them or
that Towne where the King used to lye which Bede saith was situate neere unto the River Doroventio In which as hee also writeth Eumer that murderous Villaine thrust at Edwin King of Northumberland with a sword and had runne him through but that one of his men stepped betweene and saved the Kings life with the losse of his owne Yet could I never have said precisely which was the very place had not that most judicious Robert Marshall given me a light thereof For he gave me to understand that just at the very same distance from Yorke which I spake of there stands hard upon the River Darwent a little Towne named Auldby that is if you interprete the Saxon word The old Habitation where are extant yet in sight some tokens of Antiquity and upon a very high Hill neere unto the River the rubbish of an ancient Fortification so that it cannot chuse but to have beene the said City Derventio From hence glideth the River hard under Stanford-Bridge which also of the battaile there fought is called Battlebridge For at that Bridge Harald King of England after a great execution done upon the Danes flew in a pight field Harald Hardread King of Norway who with a Fleet of 200. saile grievously annoyed the Isle of Britaine and was now landed at Richall spoiling and wasting all in his way The King of England who having the honour of the field found among the spoiles such a masse of Gold as that twelve lusty young men had much adoe to carry it on their backes as Adam Bremensis recordeth This field was foughten scarce nine dayes before the arrivall of William Conquerour what time the dissolute and roiotous life of the Englishmen seemed to foretell their imminent overthrow and destruction But of this I have spoken before Derwent which when it is encreased with raine and as it were provoked to anger doth oftentimes contemne his bankes and surround the medowes lying about it passing from hence by Wreshil a proper and a strong Castle which Sir Thomas Percy Earle of Worcester built runneth amaine under Babthorpe which yeeldeth both name and habitation to a worshipfull Family of Knights degree and so at length dischargeth himselfe into Ouse Out of this stocke it was for let us not thinke much to tell of those who performed faithfull service to their Prince and Country that both father and sonne fighting together under the banner of King Henry the Sixth lost their lives in the Battaile of Saint Albans and were there buryed together with this Epitaph Cum patre Radulpho Babthorp jacet ecce Radulphus Filius hoc duro marmore pressus humo Henrici Sexti dapifer pater Armiger ejus Mors satis id docuit fidus uterque fuit c. Behold where two Raulph Babthorps both the sonne and father lye Under a stone of marble hard interr'd in this mould dry To Henry the Sixth the father Squire the Sonne he Sewer was Both true to Prince and for his sake they both their life did passe And now Ouse by this time carrying a fuller streame runneth neere Howden a Mercate Towne famous not so much for any beauty in it or great resort thereto as because it hath given name to a little Territory adjoyning called of it Howdenshire and had therein not long since a prety Collegiat Church of five Prebendaries unto which joyneth the Bishops house of Durrham who have great lands thereabout One of which namely Walter Skirlaw who flourished about the yeere of our Lord 1390. as we reade in the booke of Durrham built a very great and large steeple to this Church that if there happened by chance any inundation it might serve the inhabitants for a place of refuge to save themselves in And not farre from hence stands Metham which gave both sirname and habitation also to the ancient house of the Methams Now the River Ouse being very broad swift and roring besides out powreth his streame into the Frith or salt water ABUS For so calleth Ptolomee that arme of the Sea which the English Saxons and we tearme Humber whereof also the Country beyond it by a generall name was called Northumberland Both these names may seeme to have beene drawne with some little change from the British word Aber which among them signifieth the mouth of a River and I would thinke it was imposed upon this River by way of excellency because Ure or Ouse having entertained and lodged many Rivers carryeth them all with him along into this yea and other Rivers of right great name are emptied into it And verily it is one of the broadest armes of the sea and best stored with fish in all Britaine It riseth high as the Ocean at every tide floweth and when the same ebbeth and returneth backe it carryeth his owne streame and the currant of the Sea together most forcibly and with a mighty noise not without great danger of such as saile therein whence Necham writeth thus of it Fluctibus aequoreis nautis suspectior Humber Dedignans Urbes visere rura colit More fear'd of shipmen Humber streame than waves of sea so deepe Disdaining cities great to see neere country townes doth keepe And following the British History as if it had beene so called of a King of the Hunnes he addeth this moreover Hunnorum princeps ostendens terga Locrino Submersus nomen contulit Humbris aquae A Prince of Hunnes whiles that he shew'd his backe to Locrine brave Was drowned heere and so the name to Humber water gave Touching whom another Poet also Dum fugit obstat ei flumen submergitur illic Dèque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquae Whiles he turn'd backe and tooke his flight the River stopt the same There drown'd was he and then of him the water tooke the name Neither were there indeed any Cities seene to stand by this Arme of the Sea in Nechams daies but before and after there flourished one or two Cities in these places Under the Roman Empire not farre from the banke by Foulnesse a River of small account where Wighton a little Towne of Husbandry well inhabited is now seene stood as we may well thinke in old time DELGOVITIA and that I may not take hold of the distance from DERVENTIO for a proofe both the resemblance and the signification also of the name doe concurre For Delgwe in the British tongue signifieth The Statues or Images of the Heathen Gods and in a small Village adjoyning to this little Towne there was a Temple of Idols even in the Saxons time of exceeding great name and request which of those Heathen gods was then termed Godmundingham and now is called in the same sense Godmanham Neither doubt I but that even when the Britans flourished it was some famous Oracle much frequented when superstition spread and swaying among all Nations had wholly possessed the weake mindes of ignorant people But when Paulinus preached Christ unto Northumberland men Coy-fi who had beene a Pontife or
head Yet others are of opinion that this name arrived in this Island with the English out of Angloen in Denmarke the ancient seat of the English nation for there is a towne called Flemsburg and that the Englishmen from hence called it so like as the Gaules as Livie witnesseth tearmed Mediolanum that is Millan in Italiâ— after the name of Mediolanum in Gaule which they had left behinde them For there is a little village in this Promontory named Flamborrough where an other notable house of the Constables had anciently their seat which some doe derive from the Lacies Constables of Chester Beeing in these parts I could learne nothing for all the enquirie that I made as touching the bournes commonly called Vipseys which as Walter of Heminburgh hath recorded flow every other yeere out of blinde springs and runne with a forcible and violent streame toward the sea nere unto this Promontory Yet take here with you that which William Newbrigensis who was borne neare that place writeth of them Those famous waters which commonly are called Vipseys rise out of the earth from many sources not continually but every second yeere and being growne unto a great bourn runne downe by the lower grounds into the sea Which when they are dry it is a good signe for their breaking out and flowing is said to bee an infallible token portending some dearth to ensue From thence the shore is drawne in whereby there runneth forth into the sea a certaine shelfe or slang like unto an out-thrust tongue such as Englishmen in old time termed a File whereupon the little village there Filey tooke name and more within the land you see Flixton where in King Athelstanes time was built an Hospitall for the defence thus word for word it is recorded of way-faring people passing that way from Wolves least they should be devoured Whereby it appeareth for certaine that in those daies Wolves made foule worke in this Tract which now are no where to be seene in England no not in the very marches toward Scotland and yet within Scotland there be numbers of them in most places This little territory or Seigniory of Holdernesse King William the First gave to Drugh Buerer a Fleming upon whom also he had bestowed his Niece in marriage whom when hee had made away by poison and thereupon fled to save himselfe hee had to succeed him Stephen the sonne of Odo Lord of Aulbemarle in Normandy who was descended from the Earles of Champaigne whom King William the First because hee was his Nephew by the halfe sister of the mothers side as they write made Earle of Aulbemarle whose posterity in England retained the Title although Aulbemarle be a place in Normandy His successour was William sirnamed Le Grosse whose onely daughter Avis was marryed to three husbands one after another namely to William Magnavill Earle of Essex to Baldwine De Beton and William Forts or de Fortibus by this last husband onely shee had issue William who also had a sonne named William His onely daughter Avelin being the wedded wife of Edmund Crouchbacke Earle of Lancaster dyed without children And so as wee reade in the booke of Meaux Abbay for default of heires the Earldome of Aulbemarle and honour of Holdernesse were seized into the Kings hands Howbeit in the ages ensuing King Richard the Second created Thomas of Woodstocke his Unkle and afterwards Edward Plantagenet Earle of Rutland the Duke of Yorkes sonne Duke of Aulbemarle in his fathers life time likewise King Henry the Fourth made his owne sonne Thomas Duke of Clarence and Earle of Aulbemarle which Title King Henry the Sixth afterward added unto the stile of Richard Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke for the greater augmentation of his honour EBORACENSIS Comiâ—aâ—us pars Septentrionalis vulgo NORTH RIDING NORTH-RIDING SCarce two miles above Flamborrough-head beginneth the NORTH-RIDING or the North part of this Country which affronting the other parts and beginning at the Sea is stretched out Westward and carrieth a very long Tract with it though not so broad for threescore miles together even as farre as to Westmorland limited on the one side with Derwent and for a while with the River Ure on the other side with Tees running all along it which on the North Coast separateth it from the Bishopricke of Durrham And very fitly may this part bee divided into Blackamore Cliveland Northallverton-shire and Richmond-shire That which lyeth East and bendeth toward the Sea is called Blackamore that is The blacke moorish land For it is mountanous and craggy The Sea coast thereof hath Scarborrough Castle for the greatest ornament a very goodly and famous thing in old time called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A Burgh upon the Scar or steepe Rocke The description whereof have heere out of William of Newburgh his History A Rocke of a wonderfull height and bignesse which by reason of steepe cragges and cliffes almost on every side is unaccessible beareth into the Sea wherewith it is all compassed about save onely a certaine streight in manner of a gullet which yeeldeth accesse and openeth into the West having in the toppe a very faire greene and large Plaine containing about threescore acres of ground or rather more a little Well also of fresh water springing out of a stony Rocke In the foresaid gullet or passage which a man shall have much adoe to ascend up unto standeth a stately and Princelike Towre and beneath the said passage beginneth the City or Towre spreading two sides South and North but having the sore part Westward and verily it is fensed afront with a wall of the owne but on the East fortified with the rocke of the Castle and both the sides thereof are watered with the Sea This place William Le Grosse Earle of Aulbemarle and Holdernesse viewing well and seeing it to bee a convenient plot for to build a Castle upon helping Nature forward with a very costly worke closed the whole plaine of the Rocke with a Wall and built a Towre in the very streight of the passage which being in processe of time fallen downe King Henry the Second caused to bee built in the same place a great and goodly Castle after hee had now brought under the Nobles of England who during the loose government of King Stephen had consumed the lands of the Crowne but especially amongst others that William abovesaid of Aulbemarle who had in this Tract ruled and reigned like a King and possessed himselfe of this place as his owne Touching the most project boldnesse of Thomas Stafford who to the end hee might overthrow himselfe with great attempts with a few Frenchmen surprised this Castle of a sudden in Queene Maries Raigne and held it for two daies together I neede not to speake ne yet of Sherleis a Gentleman of France who having accompanied him was judicially endited and convict of high treason albeit he was a forrainer because hee had done against
a mercate towne well knowne which river watereth Stokesley a little mercate towne likewise that hath a long time appertained to the Noble family of Eure. Beneath which places Wharton Castle belonging in times past to the Barons Menill and Harlsey to the family of Hotham and afterward to Stragwaies now wrestle with old age and hardly hold up their heads The mouth of Tees aforesaid suspected in times past of sailers is now found to be a sure road and harbour and to give direction for safe accesse and entrance unto it there are erected on both sides thereof within our remembrance high turrets with light Foure miles from this Tees mouth standeth Gisburgh on high now a small towne but whiles it stood in flourishing estate it was right glorious for a very faire and rich Abbay built by Robert de Brus Lord of the place about the yeere of our Salvation 1119 and for the common buriall place of all the gentry and nobility in this tract which also brought forth Walter de Heminford no unlearned Historiographer This verily is a passing good place and may well for pleasantnesse delightsome variety and rare gifts of Nature contend with Puteoli in Italy which in regard of healthy situation it also farre excelleth The aire is mollified and made more mild by the mountaines seated betweene it and what way the sea yeeldeth a cold and winterly disposition the soile fruitfull and plenteous in grasse affordeth delectable floures a great part of the yeere and richly aboundeth with vaines of metall and Alum-earth of sundry colours but especially of ocher and murray likewise of iron out of which they have now begunne to try very good Alum and Coperose Which with learned skill and cunning not many yeeres since Sir Thomas Chalâ—ner Knight a learned searcher into natures workes and unto whose charge our most high and mightie King hath committed his son Prince Henry the lovely joy and delight of Brittaine first discovered by observing that the leaves of trees were of a more weak greene colour here than in other places that the oakes had their rootes spreading broad but very eb within the ground the which had much strength but small store of sappe that the earth standing upon clay and being of divers colours whitish yellowish and blew was never frozen and in a cleere night glittered in the pathes like unto glasse Not farre off Onusbery or Rosebery Topping mounteth up a mighty height and maketh a goodly shew a farre off serving unto sailers for a marke of direction and to the neighbour inhabitants for a prognostication For so often as the head thereof hath his cloudy cap on lightly there followeth raine whereupon they have a Proverbiall Rhime when Rosebery Topping weares a cap Let Cliveland then beware a clap Neere unto the top of it out of an huge rocke there floweth a spring of water medicinable for diseased eies and from hence there is a most goodly and pleasant prospect downe into the vallies below lying a great way about to the hils full of grasse greene meddowes delightsome pastures fruitfull corne fields riverets stored with fish the river Tees mouth full of rodes and harbours the ground plaine and open without danger of inundation and into the sea with ships therein under saile Beneath it standeth Kildale a Castle of the Percies Earles of Northumberland and more Eastward Danby which from Brus also by the Thwengs came unto the Baron Latimers from whose heire descended the Willoughbeies Barons of Brooke But this Danby with other possessions was sold to the Nevills of which family Sir George Nevill was by King Henry the sixth called among the Barons to the Parliaments under the name of Lord Latimer in whose progenie and posterity this dignity hath continued unto our daies There remaineth nothing else heere for me to note but that the Barons Meinill held certaine lands in this shire of the Archbishops of Canterbury and for the same the Coigniers Strangwaies and Darcies descended from them are bound to performe certaine service to the said Archbishops And whereas the King of England by his Prerogative shall have the Wardship these bee the very words of the Praerogative of all their lands who hold of him in chiefe by Knights service of which themselves as tenants shall be seized in their Demesne as of Fae the day whereon they die of whomsoever they held by the like service so that themselves notwithstanding hold of the King any tenement of the ancient demesne of the Crowne unto the full and lawfull age of the heire Yet are excepted these Fees and others of the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of Durrham betweene Tine and Tees c. so that they may have the Wardship of such lands although elsewhere they held of the King Farther within the country among the mountaines of Blaca amore there offereth it selfe besides wandering beakes and violent swift brookes which challenge the vallies every where as their owne to passe through no memorable thing unlesse it be Pickering a good bigge towne belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster situate upon an hill and fortified with an old Castle unto which a number of small villages lying there round about doe appertaine whereupon the country adjoyning is commonly called Pickering Lith The Libertie of Pickering and Forest of Pickering the which King Henry the Third gave unto his younger sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Wherein neere unto the river Darwent standeth Atton that gave name unto the right noble family of the Attons Knights descended from the Lords Vescy the inheritance of which family was by the daughters parted betweene Edward Saint Iohn the Evers and the Coigniers Now from Edward Saint Iohn a great portion thereof came by a daughter to Henrie Bromflet Which Henrie verily was summoned to the High court of Parliament by these expresse termes elsewhere not to be found in Summons Our Will is that both yee and your heires males of your body lawfully issuing be Barons of Vescy Afterwards that title passed away by a daughter to the Cliffords On the otherside foure miles from Pickering neere unto Dow a swift running riveret lieth Kirkby-Morside hard unto the hilles whereof it had that name a Market towne not of the meanest reckoning and the possession sometime of the Estotevilles Behind these Westward Rhidal lieth low a goodly pleasant and plentifull vale adorned with three and twenty Parish-churches through the mids wherof runneth the river Rhie A place as saith William of Newburrough wast desolate and full of horrour before that Walter Espec had granted it to the Monkes of the Cluniak order and founded there an Abbay In this vale is Elmesly seated which if I deceive not my selfe Bede called Vlmetum where that Robert called de Rosse surnamed Fursan built a Castle nere unto which the river Recall hideth it selfe under the ground More beneath hard by the river side standeth Riton an ancient possession of the ancient familie of the Percihaies commonly
to yeeld much ground within their Confines yea and to render many Castles But this may suffice as touching Durham which I will take my leave of if you thinke good with a Distichon of Necham and an Hexastichon of John Jonston Arte sitúque loci munita Dunelmia salve Qua floret sancta religionis apex VEDRA ruens rapidis modò cursibus agmine leni Séque minor celebres suspicit urbe viros Quos dedit ipsa olim quorum tegit ossa sepulta Magnus ubi sacro marmore BEDA cubat Se jactant aliae vel religione vel armis Haec armis cluit haec religione potens Durham by art and site of place well fensed now farewell Where for devout Religion the Mitre doth excell The River Were that ranne most swift ere while with streame now soft And chanell lesse to famous men in towne lookes up aloft Whom once it bred and of whose bones in grave it is possest Where under sacred marble stone Great Beda now doth rest Of Armes or of Religion may other boast I grant For Armes and for Religion both this City makes her vaunt Concerning the Monkes that were cast out at the suppression of the Abbaies the twelve Prebendaries and two Arch-Deacons placed in this Church and the Priours name changed into the Dignity of a Deane I neede not to say any thing for they are yet in fresh memory And unwilling I am to remember how this Bishopricke was dissolved by a private Statute and all the possessions thereof given to Edward the Sixth when private greedinesse edged by Church-men did grinde the Church and withdrew much from God wherewith Christian Piety had formerly honoured God But Queene Mary repealed that Statute and restored the said Bishopricke with all the Possessions and Franchises thereof that God might enjoy his owne The Longitude of this City is 22. Degrees The Latitude 54. Degrees and 57. minutes Beneath Durham that I many not overpasse it standeth Eastward a very faire Hospitall which Hugh Pudsey that most wealthy Bishop and Earle of Northumberland so long as it was Being very indulgently compassionate to Lepres as Neubrigensis writeth built with coste I must needes say profuse enough but in some sort not so honest as who layed no small deall of other mens right so great was his power upon this devotion whiles hee thought much to disburse sufficient of his owne Howbeit hee assigned unto it revenewes to maintaine threescore and five Lepres besides Masse Priests From Durham Were carrieth his streame Northward with a more direct course by Finchdale where in the Reigne of King Henry the Second Goodrick a man of the ancient Christian simplicity and austerity wholly devoted to the service of God led a solitary life and ended his daies being buried in the same place wherein as that William of Neuborrow saith hee was wont either to lye prostrate whiles he prayed or to lay him downe when he was sicke Who with this his devout simplicity drew men into so great an admiration of him that R. brother unto that rich Bishop Hugh Pudsey built a Chappell in memoriall of him From thence Were passeth by Lumley Castle standing within a Parke the ancient seat of the Lumleies who descended from Liulph a man in this tract of right great Nobility in the time of King Edward the Confessour who marryed Aldgitha the daughter of Aldred Earle of Northumberland Of these Lumleies Marmaduke assumed unto him his mothers Coate of Armes in whose right hee was seized of a goodly inheritance of the Thwengs namely Argent of Fesse Gueles betweene three Poppinjaes Vert whereas the Lumleies before time had borne for their Armes Six Poppinjaes Argent in Gueles For she was the eldest daughter of Sir Marmaduke Thweng Lord of Kilton and one of the heires of Thomas Thweng her brother But Ralph sonne to the said Marmaduke was the first Baron Lumley created by King Richard the Second which honour John the ninth from him enjoyed in our daies a man most honourable for all the ornaments of true Nobility Just over against this place not farre from the other banke of the River standeth Chester upon the Street as one would say the Castle or little City by the Port way side the Saxons called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 whereupon I would deeme it to be CONDERCUM in which as the booke of Notices recordeth the first wing of the Astures in the Romanes time kept station and lay in Garison within the Line or precinct as that booke saith of the WALL For it is but a few miles distant from that famous WALL whereof I am to speake heereafter The Bishops of Lindifarre lived obscurely heere with the corps of Saint Cuthbert whiles the raging stormes of the Danes were up for the space of an hundred and thirteene yeeres In memory whereof when Egelricke Bishop of Durham layed the foundation of a new Church in that place he found such a mighty masse of money buried within the ground as is thought by the Romans that wallowing now in wealth he gave over his Bishopricke and being returned to Peterborrow whereof hee had beene Abbot before made causeies through the Fennes and raised other Workes not without exceeding great charges And a long time after Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem erected heere a Collegiat Church a Deane and seven Prebends In which Church the Lord Lumley abovesaid placed and ranged in goodly order the Monuments of his Ancestours in a continued line of succession even from Liulph unto these our daies which he had either gotten together out of Monasteries that were subverted or caused to bee made a new And further within almost in the middest of the Triangle there is another little Village also knowne of late by reason of the College of a Deane and Prebendaries founded by that Antony Bec at Lanchester which I once thought to have beene LONGOVICUM a station of the Romanes But let us returne unto Were which now at length turneth his course Eastward and running beside Hilton a Castle of the Hiltons a Family of ancient Gentry venteth his waters with a vast mouth into the sea at Wiran-muth as Bede tearmeth it now named Monkes Were-mouth because it belonged to the Monkes Touching which mouth or out-let thus writeth William of Malmesbury This Were where hee entereth into the Sea entertaineth Shippes brought in with a faire Gale of Winde within the gentle and quiet bosome of his Out-let Both the Bankes whereof Benedict Bishop beautified with Churches and built Abbaies there one in the name of Saint Peter and the other of Saint Paul The painfull industry of this man hee will wonder at who shall reade his life for that hee brought hither great store of bookes and was the first man that ever procured Masons and Glasiers for windowes to come into England Five miles higher the River Tine doth also unlade it selfe which together with Derwent for a good way lineth out as it
whiles in hostile manner made inrodes into his lands untill the moderate carriage of the good and worthy man and processe of time pacified these quarrels Here along the sea shore you may see in many places heaps of sand whereupon they powre water untill it gather a saltish humour which afterwards with turfes they boile untill it be white salt There be also here uncertaine sands not to bee trusted but ready to catch and swallow they call them Quick-sands so dangerous for travellers whiles at a low water when tide is past they seeke to goe the nearest way that they had need to take very good heed lest in going a foot I use Sidonius his words they suffer not shipwracke and be cast away on the land But especially about the mouth of Cocar where as it were in a field of Syrts or Quick-sands Cokar sand Abbey an Abbey not long since of the Cluniack Monkes built by Ranulph de Meschines but open to the violence of windes stood betweene the mouths of Cocar and Lune or Lone and hath a bleake prospect into the wide Irish sea This river Lone commonly called Lune springing out of the mountaines of Westmorland running Southward in a chanell now broad now narrow with many a reach in and out hindring his streame enricheth the dwellers thereby in Summer time with great store of Salmons which because they delight in cleere water and especially in shallow places that are sandy come up thicke together into this and other rivers of this coast As soone as Lune is entred into Lancashire Lace a little brooke from out of the East joyneth his streame with it In which place now standeth Over-Burrow a very small village of husbandmen which as the inhabitants enformed mee had beene sometimes a great City and tooke up all those large fields betweene Lacce and Lone and after it had suffered all miseries that follow famine was driven to composition through extremity This tradition they received from their ancestours delivered as it were from hand to hand unto them And in very truth by divers and sundry monuments exceeding ancient by engraven stones pavements of square checker worke peeces of Romane coine and by this new name Burrow which with us signifieth a Burgh that place should seeme to bee of great antiquity But if it recover the ancient name it may thanke other and not mee although I have sought as narrowly and diligently for it as for Ants pathes neither is any man to thinke that the severall names of every towne in Britaine are precisely noted and set done in Ptolomee Antonine The Notice of Provinces and other approved and principall Authors But if a man may goe by ghesse I would willingly thinke that it was BREMETONACUM which Ierome Surita a Spaniard in his notes upon Antonine or Rible-chester deemeth truely to be a different place from BREMENTURACUM and that by the distance from COCCIUM or Rible-chester From this Burrow the river Lune runneth beside Thurland Tunstalls a fortresse built by Sir Thomas Tunstall in the time of King Henry the fourth when the King had given him Licence to fortifie and kernell his mansion house that is to embatle it also by Hornby a faire castle which glorieth much of the first founder N. de Mont Begon and of the Lords thereof The Harringtons and Stanleys Barons Stanleyes of Mont-Eagle descended from Thomas Stanley the first Earle of Derby of that house and advanced to that title by King Henry the eighth of whom the third and the last named William left behind him his onely daughter and heire Elizabeth wife to Edward Parker Baron Morley mother to Sir William Parker whom in that regard King James commanded to be summoned to Parliament by the title of Lord Mont-Eagle and whom wee and all our posterity may acknowledge to have beene borne for the good of all Britain For by a short letter obscurely penned and secretly sent unto him and by him dutifully discovered in a happy houre was detected at the very last houre in a maner when the whole State was at the point to perish by the most horrible and detestable treason that ever any barbarous impiety could contrive what time certaine godlesse and irreligious monsters of men masking under the mantle of religion having bestowed a great quantity of gun-powder under the Parliament house stood ready with match in hand to give fire thereto for to blow up both Prince and Countrey with one blast in a moment Lone having passed on some few miles from hence commeth within the sight of Lancaster standing on his South banke the chiefe towne of this region which the inhabitants more truly call Loncaster as the Scots also who name it Loncastell of the River Lone Both the name still remaining and the river running under it doe argue in some sort that it is LONGOVICUM where under the Lievtenant Generall of Britaine as wee finde in the Notice of Provinces a company of the Longovicarians who of the place borrowed that name kept their station Although the towne at this day is not very well peopled nor much frequented and all the inhabitants thereof are given to husbandry for the territory all round about is well manured lying open fresh and faire and not voide of woods yet for proofe of Romane antiquity they finde otherwhiles peeces of the Emperours coine especially where the Friery stood for there they say was the plot upon which the ancient City was planted which the Scots after they had with a sudden out-road wasted all in their way in the yeere of our Redemption 1322. set on fire and burnt Since which time they have begunne to build nearer unto a greene hill by the river side on which standeth the castle great I cannot say nor of any antiquity but faire and strong And hard by it standeth upon the height of the hill the onely Church they have where the Monkes aliens had in times past a cell founded by Roger of Poictiers A little beneath which by a faire bridge over Lone in the descent and side of the hill where it is steepest hangeth a peece of a most ancient wall of Romane work seeming ready to reele Wery wall they call it after a later British name as it should seeme of this towne For they called it Caer Werid as one would say The Greene City happely of that fresh greene hill But I leave this to others John Lord of Moriton and of Lancaster afterwards King of England confirmed by Charter to his Burgesses of Lancaster all the liberties which he had granted unto the Burgesses of Bristoll And King Edward the third in the sixe and thirtieth yeere of his reign granted unto the Mayor and Bailives and Commonalty of the towne of Lancaster that Plees and Sessions should not elsewhere bee holden This towne seeth the Pole Arcticke that I may note so much elevated foure and fifty degrees and five minutes and standeth removed from the utmost line of
an Attourney a Receiver a Clerke of the Court sixe Assistants a Messenger two Auditors 23. Receivers and three Supervisors c. There are counted in this shire beside very many Chappels Parishes 36. and no more but those wonderfull populous and which for multitude of inhabitants farre exceed the greatest parishes elsewhere WESTMORLANDIAE Comitatus qui olim Spectaint ad BRIGANTAS WEST-MOR-LAND BEYOND the furthest part of Lancashire more Northward lieth another lesser countrey of the Brigantes called by late Latine writers Westmaria and Westmorlandia in our tongue West-more-land and of some later Latine writers Westmoria bounded on the West and North side with Cumberland on the East with Yorke-shire and the Bishopricke of Durham Which because it lyeth all of it among moores and high hilles reaching one to another for our Apennine waxeth here broader and broader still as it runneth and was for the most part un-manured came by this name in our language For such barren places which cannot easily by the painfull labour of the husbandman bee brought to fruitfulnesse the Northren Englishmen call Moores and West-more-land is nothing else with us but A westerne moorish country Let that dreame therefore as touching King Marius bee excluded out of the schoole of reverend antiquity who forsooth as our Chroniclers have dreamed subdued the Picts and called this countrey after his owne name The more Southerly part of this shire contained in a narrow roome betweene the river Lone and Winander mere is reputed fruitfull enough in the vallies although it can shew many felles with rough and stony rockes lying ever bare without grasse and is all tearmed by one name The Barony of Kendale and Candale that is The Dale by Can for it took name of the river Can which running rough upon stones cutteth through it On the west banke whereof standeth Kandale or Kendale called also Kirke by Kandale a towne of very great trade and resort with two broad and long streets crossing the one over the other and a place for excellent clothing and for industry so surpassing that in regard thereof it carrieth a great name For the inhabitants have great trafficke and vent of their woollen clothes throughout all parts of England They count it also much for their credit that it hath dignified Barons and Earles with the title thereof As for their Barons they were the offspring of Iuo Taleboys of whose race William by consent of King Henry the second called himselfe William of Lancaster whose Niece and heire was wedded unto Gilbert the sonne of Roger Fitz-Reinfrid by whose daughters after her sonne William was dead the inheritance went to Peter Brus Lord of Skelton the second of that forename and unto William Lindesay from whom by the mothers side as we learne out of the Lieger book of Fornesse Abbey Ingelram Lord of Coucy in France fetched his descent By which Peter Brus his daughter the sister and heire of Peter Brus the third came this Barony to the Rosses of Werke and from them by right of inheritance this possession was devolved upon the Parres of whom Sir William Par was made Lord Par by King Henry the eighth As for the Castle the ancient seat of these Lords standing over against the towne it runneth to decay through age and neglect As for Earles of Kendale there have beene three in number John Duke of Bedford advanced to that honour by his brother King Henry the fifth John Duke of Somerset and John de Foix of that most noble and honorable family of the Foix in France whom King Henry the sixth for his faithfull service in the French warres had preferred to that dignity Whence perhaps it is that some of this house of Foix in France retain the name still of Candale As for any glory else of antiquity Kendall to my knowledge challengeth none And yet I was once of opinion that it was CONCANGII a station place sometimes of the Romanes but time hath now instructed mee better Somewhat beneath in the river Can are two Catadupae or water falls where the waters have a downefall with a mighty noise the one is by Levens a little village the other more Southward neere to Betham which to the neighbour inhabitants are as good as true prognostications for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more cleere and aloud in their eares they looke certainely for faire weather when that on the South side doth the same they expect no other than showers of raine and foggy mists Thus much for the South and narrower part of this region which Westward is bounded with the river Winster and the spatious Lake Winander-mere whereof I spake erewhile and Eastward with the river Lone or Lune At the upper corner of Winander-mere lieth the dead carcasse as one would say of an ancient City with great ruines of walls and many heapes of rubbish one from another remaining of buildings without the walls yet to bee seene The fortresse thereof was somewhat long fensed with a ditch and rampire for it tooke up in length 132. Ells and in bredth 80. That it had beene the Romans worke is evident by the British brickes by the mortar tempered with little peeces of bricke among by small earthen pots or pitchers by small cruets or vials of glasse by peeces of Roman money oftentimes there found and by round stones as much as milstones or quernstones of which layed and couched together they framed in old time their columnes and by the paved high waies leading unto it Now the ancient name thereof is gone unlesse a man would ghesse at it and thinke it were that AMBOGLANA whereof the booke of Notices maketh mention seeing at this day it is called Ambleside On the East side the river Lone serveth for a limit and after his name the tract lying about it is called Lonsdale the principall towne whereof is Kirkby Lonsdale whither all the people round about repaire to Church and mercate Above the Spring-head of Lone the countrey spreadeth broader and the hills shoot out with many turnings betweene which there lye some vallies marvellous steepe and deepe withall with many hollow places in manner of caves Among these hills that notable river Eden which Ptolomee calleth ITUNA shewing his head first in Yorkshire carrying a small and faint streame in the beginning but afterwards growing by little and little bigger with sundry beckes still augmenting it seeketh a way Northwest by Pendragon Castle which hath nothing left unto it unconsumed by time besides the bare name and an heape of stones From thence hee passeth by Wharton Hall the seat of the Barons Wharton of whom the first was Sir Thomas Wharton advanced to that dignity by King Henry the Eighth whom succeeded his sonne of the same name and after him Philip that now liveth the third Baron a right honourable person Afterwards it runneth downe by Kirkby Stephen a mercate towne well knowne and both the Musgraves two little villages
Somewhat higher Irt a little river maketh way toward the sea wherein the muscles and cochles after they have with a kinde of yawning or gaping sucked in dew which they lust after to conceive by bring forth pearles or to speake as the Poet doth Shell-berries which the inhabitants there by search after at a low water and our Lapidaries and Jewellers buy of the poore needie people for a little but sell again at an high rate of these and such like Marbodaeus seemeth to speake in this verse Gignis insignes antiqua Britannia baccas And Britanie of ancient fame Breeds and brings forth pearles of great name Now by this time the shore extendeth out more and more and encloseth Westward where it maketh a little promontorie which the common sort for Saint Bega call St. Bees For Bega a devout and religious Irish woman led there a solitarie life unto whose holinesse are ascribed certain vain miracles as the taming of a wild bull and the procuring of a mightie deep snow which in the longest summers day by her praiers fell and lay thicke upon the vallies and tops of hills Scarce a mile hence standeth Egremont Castle on the top of an hill the seat in times past of William de Meschines unto whom King Henrie the first gave it to hold by one knights service and that he should serve at the Kings commandement in the army for Wales and Scotland Who left behind him a daughter the wife of William Fitz-Duncan of the blood roiall of Scotland by whose daughter also the inheritance came into the family of the Lucies from them likewise by the Moltons and Fitz-waters the title of Egremont descended unto the Ratcliffes Earles of Sussex And yet Sir Thomas Percie through the favour of King Henrie the sixth enjoyed it for a time being summoned to the Parliament by the name of Th. Percie of Egremont From hence the shore drawing it selfe backe by little and little and as it appeareth by the heapes of rubbish it hath beene fortified all along by the Romanes wheresoever there was easie landing For it was the outmost bound of the Roman Empire and the Scots lay sorest upon this coast and infested it most when as it were with continuall surges of warre they flowed and flocked hither by heapes out of Ireland and certaine it is that Moresby a little village where is a roade for ships was one of these fortifications For there are many monuments of antiquitie as vaults under the ground great foundations many caves which they use to tearme Picts-Holes many fragments of stones with inscriptions engraven in them are there often times found in the ground of which upon one I read this LUCIUS SEVERINUS ORDINATUS on another COH VII And this Altar I saw lately digged out there with a little horned image representing Sylvanus erected to his honour by the second Cohort of the Lingones DEO SILVAN COH II. LING CVI PRAEES G. POMPEIVS M SATVRNIN As also this fragment which I. Fletcher Lord of the place transcribed out for me and sent unto mee OB PROSPE RITATEM CVLMINIS INSTITVTI But no stone hitherto hath beene found that assureth us that it was MORBIUM where the Cataphractarii horsemen or men at armes served notwithstanding the name in some sort implieth as much Neither is Hay-castle which I saw hard by to be passed over with silence a place verily to be regarded for antiquity sake which by report of the inhabitants belonged successively in elder time to Gentlemen surnamed Moresby and Distinton After this the river Derwent hideth himselfe in the Ocean which having his first beginning in Borrodale a valley hemmed in with crooked hills creepeth betweene the mountains called Derwent Fels wherein at Newlands elsewhere copper mines were discovered by Thomas Shurland and Daniel Hotchstatâ—er a German of Auspurge in our daies and yet the same were knowne before as appeareth by closse rowles of King Henrie the third n. 18. Upon the discoverie of these mines there was a memorable case in law between the late QUEEN ELIZABETH of sacred memorie and Thomas Percie Earl of Northumberland in whose Lordship they were found but in regard of the Queenes royall prerogative and for that there were in them veins of gold and silver they were adjudged to the Queen But hereby it is well seene how untrue it was that Cicero wrote in his Epistles unto Atticus This is for certaine knowne saith he that there is not in the Iland Britaine so much as one scruple of silver Neither would Caesar if he had known of these mines have written That the Britans had use of copper brought in to them from other parts beyond sea seeing that the mines not onely serve all England over but also affoord great plentie beside that is carried yeerly forth of the realme Here also is commonly found that minerall kind of earth or hardned glittering stone we call it Black-lead with which Painters use to draw their lines and make pictures of one colour in their first draughts which whether it bee Pnigitis or Melanteria spoken of by Dioscorides or Ochre a kind of earth so burnt with heat that it becommeth blacke or whether it were unknowne unto the old writers I cannot certainly averre and let others for me search it out Derwent after it hath passed through these hills spreadeth abroad into a large lake Bede termeth it praegrande stagnum that is a very great poole wherein are three Ilands eminent above the water The one hath an house in it of the Ratcliffes a family of Knights degree the second is inhabited by the Dutch Minerall men the third is thought to be that wherein as Bede writeth Saint Herbert lived an Heremeticall life On the very skirt of this bottome in a pleasant soile compassed about with deawie hills and fensed on the North side with that high mountaine Skiddaw lieth Keswike a little towne which King Edward the first made a mercate by the procurement of S. Thomas of Derwentwater Lord of the place from whom it lineally descended to the family of the Ratcliffs It was well knowne many yeeres agoe by reason of the mines of copper as we may see in a certaine Charter of King Edward the fourth and is at this day much inhabited by Minerall men who have here their smelting house by Derwent side which with his forcible streame and their ingenuous inventions serveth them in notable steed for easie bellowes workes hammer workes forge workes and sawing of boords not without admiration of such as behold it As for that mountain Skiddaw aforesaid it riseth up to such an height with two heads like unto Parnassus and with a kind of emulation beholdeth Scruffel hill before it in Anandale within Scotland that from these two mountaines according as the mistie clouds arise or fall the people there by dwelling make their prognostication of the change of weather and commonly sing this note If
did cast a ditch or trench crosse over the Iland from sea to sea within it also he built a wall with turrets and bulwarkes Which afterwards he calleth Fossam Severiam that is Severs fosse or ditch like as we read in the most ancient Annales of the English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Severus foregirded and fenced Britain with a ditch from sea to sea And other later writers in this wise 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Severus in Britain made and finished a wall of turfes or a rampier from sea to sea William of Malmesburie likewise nameth it a famous and most notorious trench In which very place two hundred yeeres after or much thereabout a wall of stone was set up whereof I am to speake anon Whereas Eutropius hath set downe the length of it to be 35. miles Victor 32. and other Authors 132. I suppose some faults have crept into the numbers For the Iland is not so broad in that place although a man should take the measure of the wall as it stood winding in and out rising also and falling here and there Nay if one should reduce it into Italian miles he should find little above fourescore as Spartianus hath truely reckoned them Some few yeeres after this Munition as it seemes was forlet Howbeit when Alexander Severus the Emperour as we read in Lampridius had once given unto the Captaines and souldiers of the marches those grounds and lands which were won from the enemies so that they should be their proprietie if their heires served as souldiers and that they should never returne to any private men supposing they would goe to the wars more willingly and take the better care if they should defend their owne peculiar possessions Note these words well I pray you for hence may be deduced either a kind of Feudum or the beginning of Feuds After this the Romans marching beyond the wall and building themselves stations within the out-land and barbarian soile fortifying also and furnishing them accordingly enlarged the limits of the Roman Empire againe as farre as to Edenborough Frith Neverthelesse the savage and barbarous people never ceasing to assaile them upon advantages drave them backe now and then as farre as to Severus Trench Dioclesian the Emperour had a provident eye to these limits under whom when as the whole command in Britaine was committed unto Carausius for that he was reputed the fitter man to warre against these warlike nations he did set up againe the fore-fense betweene Dunbritton Frith and Edenborough Frith as I will shew in place convenient The first that ever had blame for neglecting these limits was Constantine the Great for thus writeth Zosimus Whereas the Roman Empire by the providence of Dioclesian was in the utmost marches thereof every where surely fensed with Townes Castles and Burghs and all their military companies made their abode in them it was impossible for the barbarous nations to passe in but they were so met withall at every turne by forces there set to repell them backe Constantine abolishing this munition of Garrisons placed the greater part of the souldiers whom hee had removed from out of the marches in townes that had no need of Garrisons and defence So hee left the marches open to the inrodes of barbarous nations without garrisons and pestered the Cities that were at peace and quiet with a sort of souldiers whereby most of them are now already become desolate and the souldiers themselves addicted to Theatricall sports and pleasures grew by his meanes deboshed To conclude and simply to speake in one word he it was that gave the first cause and beginning that the state of the Empire runneth to wrecke and ruine The Countrey that lay betweene these enclosures or fore-fenses Teodosius father unto Theodosius the Emperour recovered he re-edified and repaired the Cities strengthened the garrison castles and the limits with such watch and ward and fortications yea and when he had recovered the Province restored it to the ancient estate in such wise as that it had a lawfull Governour by it selfe and was afterward in honour of Valentinian the Emperour called VALENTIA Theodosius also his sonne having now by his own vertue attained unto the Imperiall Majestie had a provident care of these limits and gave commandement that the Master of the Offices should yeere by yeer give advice and advertisement unto the Emperour how all things went with the souldiers and in what sort the charge of castles holds and fore-fenses was performed But when the Roman Empire began once to decay apparently and the Picts together with the Scots breaking through the wall of Turfes by Edenborrow-frith cruelly wasted and over-ranne these parts the Roman legion sent to aid the Britans under the leading of Gallio of Ravenna after they had driven away and quite removed the Barbarians being now called backe againe for the defence of France exhorted the Britans these be the very words of Gildas and Bede to make a wall overthwart the Iland between the two seas which might serve for a defence to keep off the enemies and so returned home with great triumph But the Ilanders fall to building of a wall as they were willed not so much with stone as with turfes considering they had no workman to bring up so great a piece of work and so they did set up one good for nothing Which as Gildas saith being made by the rude and unskilfull common multitude without any one to give direction not so much of stone as of turfe served them in no stead As touching the place where this wall was made Bede proceedeth to write in this maner They raised it betweene the two friths or armes of the sea for the space of many miles that where the fense of water failed there by the help of a rampier they might defend the borders from the invasion of enemies And such a fore-fense reaching a great length secured Assyria from the inrodes of forraine nations as Ammianus Marcellinus writeth And the Seres at this day as we read in Osorius fortifie their vales and plaine champion with walls that they might thereby shelter and defend themselves from the violent incursions of the Scythians Of which worke there made saith Bede that is to say of a most broad and high rampier a man may see the expresse and certaine remaines to this day which beginneth almost two miles from a Monastery called Abercurving Eastward at a place named in the Picts language Penvahel in the English tongue Penveltun and reaching Westward endeth neere the Citie Alcluid But the former enemies no sooner perceived that the Roman souldiers were returned but presently sailing thither by water breake through the bounds into the marches kill and slay all before them and whatever stood in their way they went downe with it under foot they over-trample it as if it had bin standing corne ready for harvest Whereupon Embassadours were dispatched againe to Rome making piteous moan and with
ever wee read that Adam of Kilconath was about the yeere 1270. Earle of Carrict and died serving in the Holy-land whose onely daughter Mariha fell extremely in love with Robert Brus a beautifull young Gentleman as she saw him hunting and thereupon made him her husband advanced him with the title of Earle and with possessions unto whom she bare Robert Brus that most renowned King of Scots from whom the royall line of the Kings is descended But the title of the Earle of Carrict being left for a time to the younger sonnes of the family of Brus afterwards among other honours encreased the stile of the Princes of Scotland KYLE MOre inward from Clids-forth followeth KYLE plentifull in all things and as well inhabited In Bedes Auctarium it is called Campus Cyel that is The Field Cyel and Coil where it is recorded That Eadbert King of Northumberland annexed this with other territories unto his owne Kingdome In Ptolomees time there was known a place here named VIDOGARA haply Aire which is a Sherifdome hath a townlet also of merchandise and a well known port by a little river of the same name Touching which I can thinke of no better thing to write than these verses sent unto mee from Master Iohn Ionstoun AERA sive AERIA Parva urbs ast ingens animus in fortibus haeret Inferior nulli nobilitate virûm Aeris è campis haurit purissima coelum Incubat miti mollior aura solo Aeria hinc non Aera priùs credo illa vocata est Cum duris quid enim mollia juris habent Infera cum superis quod si componere fas est Aurea fo rs dici debuit illa priùs A City small but yet great mindes in valiant bodies rest For noblenesse of Gentlemen matching the very best Out of the fields what aire it drawes is right pure fresh and kinde The soile is milde and upon it there breathes a gentle winde Hence I suppose AERIA first not Aera call'd it was For what have elements to doe with matters hard as brasse But to compare low things with high if that I may be bold Then haply well it should have beene nam'd AUREA of old Besides the river Aire there be other two riverets that water this little territorie having many villages scattering along their bankes namely Longar neere unto which the Caufords and Cesnocke by which the Cambels families in this tract of good worship dwell upon the banke whereof standeth Uchiltre castle the seat of the Stewarts that are of the blood royall as who issued from the Dukes of Albanie and thereupon are the Barons of Uchiltrey out of which house was that noble Robert Stewart who kept continually with the Prince of Condie as an inseparable companion and was with him slain in France in battaile The government of Kyle belongeth by an heritable right to the Cambells of Louden as Bailiffe thereof CUNNINGHAM CUNNINGHAM adjoyning to Kyle on the East side and the North butteth upon the same Forth so close that it restraineth the breadth thereof which hitherto lay out and spread at large The name if one interpret it is as much as the Kings Habitation by which a man may ghesse how commodious and pleasant it is This territorie is watered with Irwin that divideth it from Kyle at the spring-head well neere whereof Kilmarnock sheweth it selfe the dwelling place of the Barons Boids of whom in the reigne of James the first Thomas by a prosperous gale of Court favour was advanced to the authoritie of Regent or Vice-Roy Robert his sonne to the dignitie of Earle of Arran and marriage with the Kings sister But soone after when the said gale came about and blew contrarie they were judged enemies to the State Robert also had his wife taken from him and given unto James Hamilton their goods were confiscate fortune made a game of them and when they had lost all they died in exile Howbeit their posteritie recovered the ancient honour of Barons and honorably enjoy it at this day At the mouth of the river Irwin standeth Irwin a Burrough with an haven so barred up with shelves of sand and so shallow withall that it can beare none other vessels but small barkes and boates Ardrossan also a pile belonging to the Montgomeries more above standeth higher over the Creeke this is a verie ancient and famous familiy as any other who have to shew for witnesse of their warlike prowesse Poununy a fort built with the ransome mony of Sir Henrie Percie surnamed Hot-Spur whom I. Montgomerie with his owne hand tooke prisoner in the battaile at Otterburne and led away captive Not farre from Ardrossan is Largis embrued with the blood of the Norwegians by King Alexander the third From whence as you follow the shore bending and giving in you meet with Eglington a faire castle which was the possession of certaine Gentlemen highly descended of the same surname from whom it came by marriage unto the Montgomeries who thereby received the title of Earles of Eglington But whence the said surname should come a man can hardly tell this I know that out of Normandie it came into England and that divers families there were of the same name but that in Essex from which Sir Thomas Montgomerie Knight of the order of the Garter descended in the reigne of Edward the fourth gave Armes a little different from these This noble linage is faire and farre spread and out of those of Gevan was that Gabriel de Lorges called Earl of Montgomerie Captain of the guard of Scots which Charles the fifth King of France instituted for defence of his owne person and his successors in testimonie of their fidelitie and his love toward them who in running at tilt slew Henrie the second King of France by occasion that a broken splint of his speare where the helmet chanced to be open entred at his eye and pierced into his brain and afterwards in that civill war wherein all France was in a broile whiles he took part with the Protestants he was apprehended and beheaded But the Cunninghams in this tract are counted to be the greater and more numerous family the chiefe whereof enjoying the honour of Earle of Glencarn dwelleth at Kilmauris and fetcheth his descent out of England and from an English Gentleman who together with other killed Thomas Archbishop of Canterburie How true this is I know not but they ground it haply upon a probable conjecture taken from an Archbishops pall which the Cunninghams give in their coat of Armes ISLE GLOTTA OR ARRAN WIthin the sight of Cunningham among sundry other Ilands GLOTA the Isle mentioned by Antonine the Emperour beareth up his head in the very Forth and salt water of the river Glota or Cluyd called at this day Arran of a castle bearing the same name Inwardly it mounteth up altogether with high rising hills at the bottome and foot whereof along the shore it is well inhabited The first Earle hereof that I can read of
world for fishfull streame renown'd Refresheth all the neighbour fields that lye about it round But Glascow beautie is to Cluyd and grace to countries nye And by the streames that flow from thence all places fructifie Along the hithermore banke of Cluid yeth the Baronie of Reinfraw so called of the principall towne which may seeme to bee RANDVARA in Ptolomee by the river Cathcart that hath the Baron of Cathcart dwelling upon it carrying the same surname and of ancient nobilitie neere unto which for this little province can shew a goodly breed of nobilitie there border Cruikston the seat in times past of the Lords of Darley from whom by right of marriage it came to the Earles of Lennox whence Henrie the Father of King James the sixth was called Lord Darly Halkead the habitation of the Barons of Ros descended originally from English blood as who fetch their pedegree from that Robert Ros of Warke who long since left England and came under the alleageance of the King of Scots Pasley sometimes a famous Monasterie founded by Alexander the second of that name high Steward of Scotland which for a gorgeous Church and rich furniture was inferiour to few but now by the beneficiall favour of King James the sixth it yeeldeth both dwelling place and title of Baron to Lord Claud Hamilton a younger sonne of Duke Chasteu Herald and Sempill the Lord whereof Baron Sempill by ancient right is Sheriffe of this Baronie But the title of Baron of Reinfraw by a peculiar priviledge doth appertaine unto the Prince of Scotland LENNOX ALong the other banke of Cluyd above Glascow runneth forth Levinia or LENNOX Northward among a number of hills close couched one by another having that name of the river Levin which Ptolomee calleth LELANONIUS and runneth into Cluyd out of Logh Lomund which spreadeth it selfe here under the mountaines twenty miles long and eight miles broad passing well stored with varietie of fish but most especially with a peculiar fish that is to be found no where else they call it Pollac as also with Ilands concerning which manie fables have beene forged and those riâ—e among the common people As touching an Iland here that floateth and waveth too and fro I list not to make question thereof For what should let but that a lighter bodie and spongeous withall in manner of a pumice stone may swimme above the water and Plinie writeth how in the Lake Vadimon there be Ilands full of grasse and covered over with rushes and reeds that float up and downe But I leave it unto them that dwell neerer unto this place and better know the nature of this Lake whether this old Distichon of our Necham be true or no Ditatur fluviis Albania saxea ligna Dat Lomund multa frigiditate potens With rivers Scotland is enrich'd and Lomund there a Lake So cold of nature is that stickes it quickly stones doth make Round about the edge of this Lake there bee fishers cottages but nothing else memorable unlesse it be Kilmoronoc a proper fine house of the Earles of Cassiles on the East side of it which hath a most pleasant prospect into the said Lake But at the confluence where Levin emptieth it selfe out of the Lake into Cluyd standeth the old Citie called Al-Cluyd Bede noteth that it signified in whose language I know not as much as The rocke Cluyd True it is that Ar-Cluyd signifieth in the British tongue upon Cluyd or upon the rocke and Cluyd in ancient English sounded the same that a Rocke The succeeding posteritie called this place Dunbritton that is The Britans towne and corruptly by a certaine transposition of letters Dunbarton because the Britans held it longest against the Scots Picts and Saxons For it is the strongest of all the castles in Scotland by naturall situation towring upon a rough craggie and two-headed rocke at the verie meeting of the rivers in a greene plaine In one of the tops or heads abovesaid there standeth up a loftie watch-tower or Keep on the other which is the lower there are sundrie strong bulwarks Betweene these two tops on the North side it hath one onely ascent by which hardly one by one can passe up and that with a labour by grees or steps cut out aslope travers the rocke In steed of ditches on the West side serveth the river Levin on the South Cluyd and on the East a boggie flat which at everie tide is wholly covered over with waters and on the North side the verie upright steepenesse of the place is a most sufficient defence Certain remaines of the Britans presuming of the naturall strength of this place and their owne manhood who as Gildas writeth gat themselves a place of refuge in high mountaines and hills steep and naturally fensed as it were with rampires and ditches in most thick woods and forrests in rockes also of the sea stood out and defended themselves here after the Romans departure for three hundred yeeres in the midst of their enemies For in Bedes time as himself writeth it was the best fortified citie of the Britans But in the yeere 756. Eadbert King of Northumberland and Oeng King of the Picts with their joint forces enclosed it round about by siege and brought it to such a desperate extremitie that it was rendred unto them by composition Of this place the territorie round about it is called the Sherifdome of Dunbarton and hath had the Earles of Lennox this long time for their Sheriffes by birth-right and inheritance As touching the Earles of Lennox themselves to omit those of more ancient and obscure times there was one Duncane Earle of Lennox in the reigne of Robert the second who died and left none but daughters behinde him Of whom one was married to Alan Steward descended from Robert a younger sonne of Walter the second of that name High Steward of Scotland and brother likewise to Alexander Steward the second from whom the noblest and royall race of Scotland hath beene propagated This surname Steward was given unto that most noble family in regard of the honourable office of the Stewardshippe of the kingdome as who had the charge of the Kings revenues The said Alan had issue John Earle of Lennox and Robert Captain of that companie of Scottishmen at Armes which Charles the sixth K. of France first instituted in lieu of some recompence unto the Scottish nation which by their valour had deserved passing well of the kingdom of France who also by the same Prince for his vertues sake was endowed with the Seigniorie of Aubigny in Auvergne John had a sonne named Matthew Earle of Lennox who wedded the daughter of James Hamilton by Marion daughter to King James the second on whom he begat John Earle of Lennox hee taking armes to deliver King James the fifth out of the hands of the Douglasses and the Hamiltons was slaine by the Earle of Arran his Unkle on the mothers side This John was
extended it selfe in old time farre and wide everie way in these parts As for the places herein they are of no great account but the Earles thereof are very memorable Thomas a younger sonne of Rolland of Galloway was in his wives right Earle of Athol whose sonne Patricke was by the Bissets his concurrents murdered in feud at Hadington in his bed-chamber and forthwith the whole house wherein hee lodged burnt that it might be supposed he perished by casualtie of fire In the Earldome there succeeded David Hastings who had married the aunt by the mothers side of Patricke whose sonne that David surnamed of Strathbogie may seeme to be who a little after in the reigne of Henrie the third King of England being Earle of Athol married one of the daughters and heires of Richard base sonne to John King of England and had with her a verie goodly inheritance in England She bare unto him two sonnes John Earle of Athol who being of a variable disposition and untrustie was hanged up aloft on a gallowes fiftie foot high and David Earle of Athol unto whom by marriage with one of the daughters and heires of John Comin of Badzenoth by one of the heires of Aumar de Valence Earle of Penbroch there fell great lands and possessions His sonne David who under King Edward the second was otherwhiles amongst English Earles summoned to the Parliaments in England and under King Edward Balliol made Lord Lievtenant Generall of Scotland was vanquished by the valerous prowesse of Andrew de Murray and slaine in battaile within the Forrest of Kelblen in the yeere of our Lord 1335. And his sonne David left two young daughters only Elizabeth wedded unto Sir Thomas Percie from whom the Barons of Burrough are descended and Philip married to Sir Thomas Halsham an English Knight Then fell the title of Athol unto that Walter Stewart sonne to King Robert the second who cruelly murdered James the first King of Scotland and for this execrable crueltie suffered most condigne punishment accordingly in so much as Aeneas Sylvius Embassadour at that time in Scotland from Pope Eugenius the fourth gave out this speech That hee could not tell whether hee should give them greater commendations that revenged the Kings death or brand them with sharper censure of condemnation that distained themselves with so hainous a parricide After some few yeeres passed betweene this honour was granted unto John Stewart of the family of Lorne the sonne of James surnamed The Black Knight by Joan the widow of King James the first daughter to John Earle of Somerset and Niece to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster whose posteritie at this day enjoy the same Tau bearing now a bigger streame by receiving Almund unto him holdeth on his course to Dunkelden adorned by King David with an Episcopall See Most writers grounding upon the signification of that word suppose it to be a towne of the Caledonians and interpret it The Mount or hill of Hazeles as who would have that name given unto it of the Hazel trees in the wood Caledonia From hence the Tau goeth forward by the carkasse of Berth a little desolate Citie remembring well enough what a great losse and calamitie hee brought upon it in times past when with an extraordinarie swelling flood hee surrounded all the fields layed the goodly standing corne along on the ground and carried headlong away with him this poore Citie with the Kings childe and infant in his cradle and the inhabitants therein In steed whereof in a more commodious place King William builded Perth which straightwaies became so wealthy that Necham who lived in that age versified of it in this manner Transis ample Tai per rura per oppida per Perth Regnum sustentant istius urbis opes By villages by townes by Perth thou runn'st great Tay amaine The riches of this Citie Perth doth all the realme sustaine But the posteritie ensuing called it of a Church founded in honour of Saint John Saint Iohns towne and the English whiles the warres were hot betweene the Bruses and the Balliols fortified it with great bulwarks which the Scots afterwards for the most part overthrew and dismantled it themselves Howbeit it is a proper pretie Citie pleasantly seated betweene two Greenes and for all that some of the Churches be destroyed yet a goodly shew it maketh ranged and set out in such an uniforme maner that in everie severall street almost there dwell severall artificers by themselves and the river Tau bringeth up with the tide sea commodities by lighters whereupon J. Jonston so often now by me cited writeth thus PERTHUM Propter aquas Tai liquidas amoena vineta Obtinet in medio regna superba solo Nobilium quondam regum clarissima sedes Pulchra situ pinguis germine dives agri Finitimis dat jura locis moremque modumque Huic dare laus illis haec meruisse dari Sola inter patrias incincta est moenibus urbes Hostibus assiduis ne vaga praeda foret Quanta virûm virtus dextrae quae praemia nôrunt Cimber Saxo ferox genus Hectoridum Felix laude novâ felix quoque laude vetustâ Perge recens priscum perpetuare decus PERTH Neere to the waters cleere of Tay and pleasant plaines all greene In middle ground betweene them stands Perth proudly like a Queene Of noble Kings the stately seat and palace once it was Faire for the site and rich with all for spring of corne and grasse To neighbour places all it doth lawes customes fashions give Her praise to give theirs to deserve the same for to receive Of all the Cities in these parts walled alone is she Lest she to foes continuall a scambling prey might be What Knights she bred and what rewards they won to knighthood due Danes Saxons fierce bold Britans eke the Trojans off-spring knew Happie for praises old happie for praises new of late New as thou art thine honour old strive to perpetuate And now of late King James the sixth hath erected it to the title of an Earldome having created James Baron Dromund Earle of Perth Unto Perth these places are neere neighbours Methven which Margaret an English Ladie widow unto King James the fourth purchased with readie money for her third husband Henrie Steward descended of the royall blood and for his heires and withall obtained of her sonne King James the fifth for him the dignitie of a Baron More beneath is Rethuen a castle of the Rethuens whose name is of damned memorie considering that the three states of the kingdome hath ordained that whosoever were of that name should forgoe the same and take unto them a new after that the Rethuens brethren in a most cursed and horrible conspiracie had complotted to murder their soveraigne King James the sixth who had created William their father Earle of Gourie and afterward beheaded him being lawfully convicted when he would insolently prescribe lawes to his soveraigne But of men
of youth and is called New Aberdon The other beyond it named Old Aberdon is most famous for the taking of Salmons But J. Ionston a native hereof in these his verses depainteth Aberdon thus ABERDONIA Ad Boream porrecta jugis obsessa superbis Inter connatas eminet una Deas Mitior algentes Phoebus sic temperat auras Non aestum ut rabidum frigora nec metuas Faecundo ditat Neptunus gurgite amnes Piscosi gemmis alter adauget opes Candida mens frons laeta hilaris gratissima tellus Hospitibus morum cultus ubique decens Nobilitas antiqua opibus subnixa vetustis Martiaque invicto pectore corda gerens Iustitiae domus studiorum mater honoris Ingenio ars certant artibus ingenia Omnia ei cedunt meritos genetricis honores Pingere non ulla Ars ingeniumvè valet Beset with loftie tops of hills and Northward lying spread Among her sister-townes alone she beareth up her head The warme sun-beames such temper give to sharpnesse of the aire That neither scorching heat you need nor pinching cold to feare The sea the fishfull rivers eke with plenteous gulfes and streames Make this place rich and one of them enriches it with gemmes Plain-hearted men of lightsome lookes and cheerfull passing kind To strangers decent everie thing and neat you shall there finde Their noble gentrie ancient their livings ancient were And their demesnes undaunted hearts and martiall mindes they beare The Justice Hall as mother kinde she honours due doth daigne Professions all art strives with wit and wit with arts againe All short of her But praises all of this my genitresse That she deserves no wit nor art is able to expresse It is almost incredible what abundance of Salmons as well these rivers as others also in Scotland on both sides of the realme doe breed This fish was altogether unknowne unto Plinie unlesse it were that Esox of the Rhene but in this North part of Europe passing well known shining and glittering as he saith with his red bowels In Autumne they engender within little rivers and in shallow places for the most part what time they cast their spawne and cover it over with sand and then are they so poore and leane that they seeme to have nothing else in a manner but their small bones Of that spawn in the spring next following there comes a frie of render little fishes which making toward the sea in a small time grow to their full bignesse and in returning backe againe to seeke for the rivers wherein they were bred they strive and struggle against the streame and looke whatsoever lyeth in their way to hinder their passage with a jerke of their taile and a certaine leape whence haply they had their name Salmons to the wonder of the beholders they nimbly whip over and keepe themselves within these rivers of theirs untill they breed During which time it is enacted by law they should not bee caught namely from the feast of the Assumption of our Ladie to the feast of Saint Andrew in winter And it should seeme they were reputed among the greatest commodities of Scotland when likewise it was ordained that they should not be sold unto Englishmen but for English gold and no other contentation But these matters I leave for others To come now unto the Earles of Marre In the reigne of Alexander the third William Earle of Marre is named among those that were sore offended and displeased with the King Whiles David Brus reigned Donald Earle of Marre Protector of the Kingdome was before the battaile at Dyplin murdered in his bed by Edward Balliol and the Englishmen that came to aide him whose daughter Isabel King Robert Brus tooke to be his former wife on whom he begat Marjorie mother to Robert Stewart King of Scots Under the same David there is mention also made of Thomas Earle of Marre who was banished in the yeere 1361. Likewise in the reign of Robert the third Alexander Stewart is named Earle of Marre who in the battell at Harley against the Ilanders lost his life in the yeer 1411. In the daies of King James the first we read in Scoto-Chronicon thus Alexander Earle of Marre died in the yeere 1435. the base son of Alexander Stewart Earle of Bucquan sonne to Robert the second King of Scots after whom as being a bastard the King succeeded in the inheritance John the second sonne of King James the second afterwards bare this title who being convict for attempting by art magicke to take away the King his brothers life was let blood to death And after him Robert Cockeran was promoted from a Mason to this dignitie by King James the third and soon after hanged by the Nobilitie Since which time this honourable title was discontinued untill that Queen Marie adorned therewith James her bastard brother and not long after when it was found that by ancient right the title of Earle of Marre appertained to John Lord Ereskin in lieu of Marre she conferred upon him the honour of Earle Murray and created Iohn Ereskin a man of ancient and noble birth Earle of Marre whose sonne bearing the same Christian name now enjoieth also the same dignity and is in both realmes one of the Kings Privie Councell BUCHANIA OR BUQUHAN THe TAIZALI mentioned by Ptolomee in ancient times inhabited where now Buquhan in Latin Boghania and Buchania above the river Done beareth forth toward the German sea Some derive this latter name a Bobus that is From Oxen and Kine whereas notwithstanding the ground serveth better to feed sheepe whose woole is highly commended Albeit the rivers in this coast everie where breed great store of Salmons yet doe they never enter into the river Ratra as Buchanan hath recorded Neither let it be offensive if I cite his testimonie although his bookes by authoritie of Parliament in the yeere 1584. were forbidden because many things in them contained are to be dashed out Who also hath written That on the banke of Ratra there is a cave neere unto Stangs Castle the nature whereof seemeth not to be passed over The water distilling by drops out of a naturall vault presently turneth into Pyramidall stones and were not the said cave or hole otherwhiles rid and cleansed by mans labour the whole space as far as up to the vault would in short time be filled therewith Now the stone thus engendred is of a middle nature betweene yee and hard stone for it is brittle and easie to crumble neither groweth it ever to the soliditie and hardnesse of marble Concerning those Claik-geese which some with much admiration have beleeved to grow out of trees both upon this shore elsewhere and when they be ripe to fall downe into the sea it is scarce worth the labour to mention them That there be little birds engendred of old and rotten keeles of ships they can beare witnesse who saw that ship wherein Francis Drake sailed about the world
England of the Kings Majesties Privie Counsell whom King James the sixth created Baron Brus of Kinlosse Thus much for the shore More inward where now standeth Bean Castle thought to bee BANATIA that Ptolomee mentioneth there was found in the yeere 1460. a vessell of marble artificially engraven and full of Roman coine Hard by is Nardin or Narne an hereditable Sherifdome of the Cambels of Lorne where there stood within a Biland a fortresse of a mightie heighth built with wonderfull bulwarks and in times past defended by the Danish forces against the Scottish A little off is Logh-Nesse a very great Lake as reaching out 23. miles in length the Water whereof is so warme that even in this cold and frozen climate it never freezeth from which by a verie small Isthim or partition of hils the Logh Lutea or Louthea which by Aber letteth it selfe forth into the West sea is divided Neere unto these Loghs there stood in old time two notable fortifications the one named Innernesse the other Innerlothea according to the names of the said Loghs Innernes hath for Sheriffe thereof by right of inheritance the Marquesse Huntly who is of great command hereabout But have here what M. Jonston hath written jointly of these two INNERNESSUS INNERLOTHEA Imperii veteris duo propugnacula quondam Primâ—que regali moenia structa manu Turribus oppositis adverso in limine spectat Haec Zephyrum Solis illa orientis equos Amnibus hinc atque hinc cincta utraque piscibus amnes Faecundi haec portu perpete tuta patet Haec fuit at jacet heu jam nunc sine nomine tellus Hospita quae Regum est hospita facta feris Altera spirat adhuc tenuis sufflamina vitae Quae dabit fati turbine victa manus Dic ubi nunc Carthago potens ubi Martia Roma Trojáque immensae ditis opes Asiae Quid mireris enim mortalia cedere fatis Corpora cùm videas oppida posse mori INNERNESSE AND INNERLOTHEA Two mightie forts and holds these were in ancient kingdomes daies The first wall'd fences as they say that hand of Kings did raise Affront with towres oppos'd they stand for one of them regards The Westerne winde but th' other looks the Sun-rising towards On both sides they their rivers have and rivers full of fish One hath an haven frequented aye and safe as heart can wish Such was it once but now alas to wast and desart fields Is turn'd and that which lodged Kings to wild beasts harbour yeelds The other yet draw's breath though deepe and shewes that it doth live But over match'd to destinie at length doth bucklers give What 's now become of Carthage great where is that martiall Rome Where Troy of wealthie Asia the riches all and some No marvaile now that mortall wights to death be subject why Because you plainly see that Townes and Cities great may dye Under the reigne of Robert Brus Thomas Randolph his sisters sonne who in his Countries behalfe undertooke exceeding great paines and most grievous quarrels was highly renowned by the title of Earle of Murray Under King Robert the Second John of Dunbarre tooke to wife the Kings daughter to make amends for her devirgination received this Earldome of Murray with her in marriage Under King James the second William Creichton Chancelour of the Realme and Archebald Douglas grew to great variance and eagre contention about this Earledome when as against the lawes and ancient customes Douglas who had married the younger daughter of James of Dunbar Earle of Murray was preferred to the Earldom before Creighton who had wedded the elder and that through the powerfull authoritie that William Earle Douglasse had with the King which was so great that he advanced not onely him to the Earldom of Murray but also another brother to the Earldome of Ormund and made two cousins of his Earles the one of Angus and the other of Morton But this greatnesse of his not to be trusted upon because it was excessive turned soone after to his owne confusion Under King James the fifth his own brother whom he appointed his Vicegerent in the government of the Kingdome enjoied this honour and within our remembrance James the base sonne of King James the fifth received this honour of Queene Mary his sister but he requited her basely when conspiring with some few of the Nobilitie he deposed her from her Royall estate and kingdome a foule president and prejudiciall to all Kings and Princes Which notwithstanding was revenged for shortly after hee was shot through with a bullet His onely daughter brought this title unto her husband Sir James Stewart of Downe who was also of the blood royall from the Dukes of Albany who being slain by his concurrents left his sonne James to succeed him in this honour LOQHUABRE WHatsoever beyond the Nesse bendeth to the West coast and adjoineth to the Lake Aber is thereupon called Loghuabre that is in the ancient tongue of the Britans The mouth of the Lakes as what lieth toward the North is commonly called Rosse Loqhuabre is full of fresh pastures and woods neither is without yron mines but not so free in yeeld of corne but for most fishfull pooles and rivers scarce inferiour to any country thereabout At Logh-Lothey Innerlothey fensed with a fort and well frequented with Merchants was of great name and importance in times past but being razed by the piracies and warres of Danes and Norwegians it hath lien for these many ages so forlet that there remaineth scarce any shew of it which those verses that I alledged even now doe imply Loqhuabre hath had so farre as I have read no Earles but about the yeere of our salvation 1050. there was a Thane over it of great fame and much spoken of named Banqhuo whom Macbeth the bastard when with murder bloodshed he had usurped the crowne being fearfull and suspicious caused to bee made away for that he had learned by a Prophesie of certaine wise women that his posteritie when the line of Macbeth was expired and extinct should one day obtaine the Kingdome and by a long successive descent reigne in Scotland Which verily hath fallen out accordingly For Fleanch the sonne of Banqhuo who unknowne in the darke escaped the traines laid for him â—led into Wales where for a time hee kept himselfe close and having taken to wife Nesta the daughter of Griffith ap Lewellin Prince of North-wales begat Walter who returning into Scotland with so great fame of his fortitude repressed the rebellion of the Ilanders and with as great wisdome managed the Kings revenewes in this tract that the King made him Seneschall whom they commonly call Stewart of the whole Kingdome of Scotland Whereupon this name of Office imposed the surname Stewart unto his posteritie who spreading throughout all parts of Scotland into a number of noble branches after many honours heaped upon them have flourished a long
dwelling place of the Earle of Twomond tooke denomination as also the whole tract of it called the county of Clare The places of greater note and name than the rest are Kilfennerag and Killaloe or Laon the Bishops seat This in the Roman Provinciall is tearmed Episcopatus Ladensis where there stands a rocke in the mid channell of the river Shannon from which the water rusheth downe a maine with a great fall and noise and by standing thus in the way as a bar hindreth the river that it can carry vessels no further which if it were cut down or a draine made about it the river were able to bring up vessels much higher to the great commodity of all the neighbour inhabitants Not far from the banke of Shannon is seated Bunraty for which Sir Robert Muscegros obtained from King Henry the third the liberâ—ie of a Mercate and Faire and when he had fortified it with a castle gave it at length unto King Edward the first who granted both this towne and the whole territory unto Richard Clare aforesaid And seven miles from thence appeareth Clare the principall towne at a Creeke flowing up out of Shannon full of Islands and these twaine are the onely mercate townes here and those but small ones Most of the English who were in times past brought hither to inhabite are either rooted out or become degenerate and growne Irish but they who carry the whole sway here at this day be of the Irish blood as Mac-Nemors Mac-Mahon O-loughton and the mightiest by far of all other the O-Briens descended from the ancient Potentates or Kings of Conaght or as themselves give it forth from the Monarchs of Ireland Of these Morogh O-Brien was the first Earle of Twomond created by King Henry the eighth for terme of life and after him to Donough his brothers sonne and his heires who at the same time being made Baron of Ibarcan succeeded in the Earldome and was slain by his brother Sir Donel O-Brien Connagher O-Brien Donaghs son was the third Earle and father to Donaugh now the fourth Earle who hath shewed singular good proofe of his faithfull loialty and courageous valour unto his Prince and countrey in most dangerous times to his singular commendation THE COUNTY OF GALLWAY THe county of GALLWAY meereth South upon Clare West upon the Ocean North upon the county Maio and East upon the river Shannon A land very thankefull unto the industrious husbandman and no lesse profitable unto the Shepheard The West shore endented in with small in-lets and out-lets or armes of the sea hath a border all along of greene Ilands and rugged rockes set orderly as it were in a row among which foure Ilands called Arran make a Barony and many a foolish fable goes of them as if they were the Ilands of the living wherein none doe dye also Inis Ceath well knowne in times past by reason of the Monastery of Colman a devout Saint founded for Scots and Englishmen and Inis-Bouind which Bede interpreteth out of the Scottish tongue to signifie The Isle of white Heifers whereas it is a meere British word But the Englishmen soone forsooke the Monastery when the Scots and they could not well agree together Further within lieth a Lake called Logh-Corbes where Ptolomee placeth the river AUSOBA spreading out twenty miles or thereabout in length and three or foure in bredth being navigable and garnished with 300. petty Ilands full of grasse and bearing Pine-trees which Lake when it reacheth neere the sea growing narrow into a river runneth under Gallway in the Irish tongue Galliue named so or else I cannot tell of the Gallaeci in Spaine the very principall city of this Province and which would thinke hardly to be reckoned the third in Ireland Surely a very proper and faire City it is built almost round and in manner tower-like of entry and some stone and hath beside to set it out a Bishops See and withall through the benefit of the haven and rode abovesaid under it being well frequented with merchants hath easie and gainfull trafficke by exchange of rich commodities both by sea and land Not full foure miles from hence standeth Knoc-toe that is the hill of Axes under which that noble Girald Fitz-Girald Earle of Kildare and by times for the space of three and thirty yeeres Lord Deputie of Ireland discomfited and put to flight after a bloody overthrow the greatest rabble of rebels that ever was seen before in Ireland raised and gathered together by William Burk O-Bren Mac-Nomare and O-Carrall Not farre from hence Eastward standeth Aterith in which remaine some footings of the name of AUTERI commonly called Athenry enclosed round about with a wall of great circuit but slenderly inhabited It glorieth much of that warlike Baron thereof Iohn de Birmingham an Englishman out of which family the Earle of Louth descended but these Birminghams of Aterith being now as it were degenerate into barbarous Irishry scarce acknowledge themselves to have beene English originally The septs or kinreds of the Irish here that be of the better sort are O Kelleis O Maiden O Flairts Mac Dervis c. Clan-Ricard that is The sonnes kinred or Tube of Richard or the land of Richards sonnes confineth upon these and lieth to this county The name it tooke after the Irish manner from one Richard of an English family called de Burgh that became afterwards of most high renowne and name in this tract and out of which King Henry the eighth created Ulick Burgh Earle of Clan-Ricard whose eldest sonne carrieth the title of Baron Dun-Kellin His sonne Richard was the second Earle whose children begotten of sundry wives stirred up many troubles to the griefe of their father the overthrow of their owne country and themselves After Richard who died an old man succeeded his sonne Ulick the third Earle and father to Richard the fourth Earle now living whose fast fidelity and singular fortitude hath to his great praise evidently appeared when the English and their whole estates in Ireland were in greatest danger In this territory is the Archbishops See of Toam unto which in old time many Bishops were subject but at this day the Bishopricks of Anagchony Duae and Maio are annexed unto it The Bishoprick likewise of Kilmacough which in the old Provinciall unlesse the name be corrupt is not mentioned as also of Clonfert are seated in this part and as I have heard united to the See of Toam THE COUNTY OF MAIO THe county Maio on which the Westerne Ocean beateth lies bounded South with the county of Galway East with the county Roscoman and North with the county of Slego A fertile country and a pleasant abundantly rich in cattell Deere Hawkes and plenty of hony taking the name of Maio a little city with a Bishops See in it which in the Roman Provinciall is called Mageo But that Episcopall seat is now annexed to the Metropolitane of
a peace was renewed there betweene the Earle of Ulster and the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas the said Lords with the Kings Counsel ordained there that the Kings peace should be fully kept so that every Nobleman and Chieftaine should keep in his owne sept retinew and servants and the said Earle of Ulster made a great feast in the Castle of Dublin and the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas the morrow after kept a great feast within the Church of St. Patrick in Dublin and Frier Roger Outlaw Justice of Ireland feasted likewise upon the third day at Kylmaynon and so they departed The same yeere on the Virgill of St. Barnabee the Apostle Sir John Bermingham Earle of Louth was slaine at Balybragan in Urgal by those of Urgal and with him Peter Bermingham the said Earles legitimate and whole brother also Robert Bermingham the same Earles putative brother Sir John Bermingham the son of his brother Richard Lord of Anry William Finne Bermingham the Unkles sonne by the mothers side of the foresaid Lord of Anry Simon Bermingham the same Williams sonne Thomas Bermingham the son of Robert of Conaght Peter Bermingham the sonne of Iames of Conaght Henry Bermingham of Conaght and Richard Talbot of Malaghide a valiant man at armes and two hundred with them whose names are not knowne Item after the foresaid slaughter the Lord Simon Genevile his men invaded the country of Carbry for to spoile and harry them in regard of their robberies and manslaughters committed many times in Meth but before the said invasion they of Carbry arose and slew of the said Simons men threescore and sixteen Also the same yeere on the morrow after holy Trinitie Sunday there came to Dublin John Gernon and Roger Gernon his brother in the behalfe of those of Urgal and made humble request that they might stand to be tried at the Common Law And on Tuesday which was the morrow after the feast of St. John Baptist John and Roger hearing that the Lord William Bermingham was comming departed out of Dublin The same yeere on the Vigill of St. Laurence the Lord Thomas Botiller went with a great power into the parts of Ardnorwith and there encountred the said Lord Thomas Williams Mac-Goghgan with his forces and there was the said L. Thomas to the great losse of the land of Ireland with him were killed the Lord John Ledewich Roger Ledewich Thomas Ledewich John Nangle Meiler Petit Simon Petit David Nangle Sir John Waringer James Terel Nicholas White William Freines Peter Kent John White and together with them one hundred and forty men whose names are unknowne And on the tuesday next before the feast of St. Bartholomew the body of the said Lord Thomas Botiller was conveied to Dublin and bestowed in the house of the preaching Friers but as yet not buried and the sunday next ensuing the feast of the beheading of St. Iohn Baptist the said Lord Thomas his corps was very honourably carried through the city and enterred in the Church of the preaching Friers and the wife of the said Lord John that day made a feast In the same yeere John Lord Dracy came Justice of Ireland the second time and the said Lord John espoused the Lady Joan de Burk Countesse of Kildare the third day of July at Maynoth Item Philip Stanton is slaine Also Henry Lord Traham is treacherously taken in his owne house at Kilbego by Richard the sonne of Philip Onolan More the Lord Iames Botiller Earle of Ormond burnt Foghird against Onolan for the foresaid Henries sake brother of Botiller The same yeere on wednesday next after the feast of the Ascension of the blessed Virgin Mary John Lord Darcy Justice of Ireland went toward the parts of Newcastle of Mac-Kingham and Wikelow against the O-Brynns and the monday following certain of Lawles were slaine and many wounded and namely Robert Locam was hurt and of the Irish the better sort were slaine many likewise wounded and the rest fled But Murkad O-Brynne yeelded himselfe an hostage together with his son unkle and unkles sonne and they were brought to the castle of Dublin But afterwards delivered for other hostages the better sort of their sept and kin The same yeere the Lord Justice namely the Lord John Darcy and those of the Kings Counsell in Ireland about the feast of the Circumcision of our Lord charged the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas of Desmund that himselfe should come into the field with his forces for to vanquish the Kings enemies giving him to understand that their soveraigne Lord the King would provide for to defray the charges of him and of his army and the said Moris came with his power and Briene O-Brene was in his company and their army consisted of ten thousand men and the said Lord Moris advanced with his army first against the O-Nolanes vanquished them gat a great bootie and wasted their lands with fire and the O-Nolanes fled and afterwards delivered hostages who were sent unto the castle of Dublin And afterwards the said Lord Moris made a journy against the O-Morches who did put in their hostages for to keepe the Kings peace The same time the castle of Ley which O-dympcy had won and kept was rendred up to the said Moris The same yeere after the Epiphany of our Lord Donald Arts Mac-Murgh made an escape out of the castle of Dublin by a cord which one Adam Nangle had bought for him which Adam afterwards was drawne and hanged MCCCXXX Mighty winds were up in divers places about the feast daies of St. Katherine S. Nicolas and of the Nativitie of our Lord by which wind part of the wall of a certain house fell downe and killed the wife of Sir Miles Verdon with his daughter on S. Nicolas even such winds as the like were never seene in Ireland Item there was such an inundation of the water of Boyn as never had been known before by which flood all the bridges as well of stone as of timber standing over the said water were utterly cast downe unlesse it were Babe bridge The water also carried away divers mills and did much hurt to the Friers Minors of Trym and Tredagh in breaking down their houses The same yeere about the feast of S. John Baptist there began a great dearth of corne in Ireland and continued untill Michaelmas Item a cranoc of wheat was sold for 20. shillings also a cranoc of oats for eight shillings and one cranoc of peason beanes and of barly for 8. shillings And this dearth hapned by occasion of abundance of raine so that much of the standing corne could not be reaped before the feast of St. Michael The same yeere the English of Meth made a slaughter of the Irish to wit of Mac-Goghigans people about Lent neere unto Loghynerthy whereupon the said Mac-Goghigan in anger burnt in those parts 25. small villages and sacked them which the English seeing gathered themselves together against him and of his men slew one hundred and among whom were slaine three Lords sons of