before by the Electors of Triers and Colen it belonging at that time to the Duke of Lorrain On the 16th early in the Morning we came to Andernach where the plague was very much at that time and they kept a great many of their sick in Boats upon the Rhine Andernach of old Antenacum was one of the Roman Fortresses Upon this River some think that Caligula was born and that Valentinian was buried hereabouts Near unto this place are also Mineral Springs well frequented and much made use of The Town is encompassed with an old Wall and the Gates were shut up by reason of the Plague Notwithstanding there being divers Friers in our company several of the Towns-men sent out dishes of Meat to them which we eat in the Field upon Trees which were laid along near the Town This day the passage by water seeming tedious to us Mr. Mulstroth a worthy German Gentleman with whom I travelled as far as Spire was willing we should hire a Coach together which we did and invited the Friers with whom we had breakfasted to go along with us in it to Coblentz We passed through a very pleasant Country between rows of Walnut-trees in sight of two of the Elector of Triers Houses and near to a House belonging to the Count de Wert We passed the Mosella over a hand some Stone-bridge of thirteen Arches built by Archbishop Baldus or Balduinus in the year 1344. and coming into the Town we went to the Dominican Convent which is pleasantly seated near the Banks of the River Mosella but the Prior of the Convent whom we had brought with us was so obliging that he would not part with us that night and we were very civilly entertained by him in his Lodgings He invited also some of the Convent to bear us company and after a handsome Supper with plenty of excellent Moselle wine we went to bed between two Feather-beds Coblentz or Confluentia is a Town of a Triangular Figure seated at the meeting of two great Rivers the Rhine and the Mosella which make two sides thereof and the third is made by a Line drawn from one River to the other which is now well fortified after the most regular Modern way The Wall within these Works had many old high Towers and formerly there was another still nearer to the uniting of the Rivers and consequently containing a less space of ground This Town is under the Elector and Archbishop of Triers Carolus Caspar of the Noble Family of the Leyen Arch-Chancellour for the Empire in Gallia Belgica and the Kingdom of Arles It was given to the Church of Triers when Medoaldus was Archbishop above a thousand years since in the time of King Dagobert The Situation is pleasant and convenient and lieth over against the Castle of Hermanstein or Ehrenbreitstein that is The Stone of far extended Honour at the foot of which Castle upon the shoar of the Rhine under a great Rock stands a very Noble Palace of the Electors two large Wings and the Front with five Pavilions standing towards the River and from it a long Bridge of Boats over the Rhine to Coblentz when any great Vessel passeth by they let slip three Boats whereby the passage lieth open and make them fast again afterwards In the German wars the Spaniards thrust in a Garrison into this Town which was afterwards beaten out by the Rhinegrave for the King of Sweden and the strong Castle of Ethrenbrietstein being put into the hands of the French the Emperours Forces seized upon the Archbishop of Triers who then was Philippus Christophorus and carried him away to Vienna In places where the Rhine runneth through a low Country and a fat Soyl it washeth away the Banks to secure which in divers places they have made great Works of Wood and also to secure Vessels from the danger of the Ice And I remember riding near the Banks of the River Loire in France I observed them in some places to be handsomly defended for a long way together with Free-stone Near unto Coblentz upon a Hill is a Convent of Carthusians October the 17th we went up the Rhine to Boppart a walled Town upon the western bank where Van Trump was at that time It is a very old Town one of the Roman Fortresses against the Germans called anciently Bodobriga some would have it called Bopport from Beauport Fair-haven or Bonport a good convenient place for Vessels to retire into or to ride in On the 18th we dined at St. Guer a pleasant Town belonging to the Landtgrave of Hesse who hath a Castle here Coming on shoar we met with an odd custome for upon the Wall side there is fastned a Collar of Brass at present but was formerly of Lead and given by Charles the Fifth into this most Strangers that come put their Necks at which time they ask them Whether they will be sprinkled with water or drink wine and if they choose the latter they give an entertainment of wine to the Company The Queen of Sweden passing by this place gave a great Silver Cup out of which they now drink at this Ceremony We lodged this night at Wesel a Town situated between a high Hill and the River belonging to the Archbishop of Triers Here in the Market-place they shew us the print of St. Huberts Horses foot in a Free-stone On the 19th we came to Baccharach or ad Bacchi aras belonging to the Elector Palatine a place famous for Excellent Wines We passed by an old Castle seated upon a Rock in the middle of the Rhine being of an irregular figure called Pfalts where formerly the Prince Palatines of the Rhine were born the Princesses being sent hither to be brought to Bed We came this night to Dreickshausen the next day we went by a dangerous Passage there being many Rocks under water which cause the River to run very rapid and unequally A little above this we came to a round Tower on a Rock in the Rhine called the Mouse-tower built by Hatto Archbishop of Mentz in the year 900. who as the Story goeth in a time of great Scarcity pretending to relieve the poor who wanted bread invited them together into a Barn where he burnt them all saying They were like the Rats and Mice which would devour the Corn. After which he was so persecuted with Rats and Mice that to avoid them he caused this Tower to be built in the middle of the Rhine which did not avail him for they followed him thither also and at last devoured him A little above this lieth Bing upon the Western shoar a considerable Town belonging to the Elector of Mentz here our Boat stayed to pay Custome as it had done also at Bonna Liutz Hammerstein Andernach Coblentz Lodesheim Bopport St. Gower Cub and Baccharach For the trade of the Rhine being great Princes and Lords who have Towns upon it make use of that advantage which though it abateth the gains of the Merchant brings considerable profit to themselves Bing
travelled to Lauterbach near which we passed through a Wood and found a Noble Church upon the top of a high Hill which being much frequented by Pilgrims they have made handsome stone Stairs from the bottom to the top then to Rotenburg and lodged at Burgperner and the next day by Schantzbach we came to Nurenberg Rotenburg is an Imperial City which some have likened unto Jerusalem for its Situation upon hilly places and many Turrets in it It is Situated near the head of the River Tauber which may be accounted the second River of Franconia passing by Rottingen Landen and Werthaim where it runneth into the Main Nurenberg is the fairest City that I saw in Germany the Houses most of them of Free-stone very high and divers of them painted on the outside and adorned with gilded Balls on the top many are of six or seven Stories high Der Herr Peller hath one of the fairest The City is very populous and full of Trade although it stands in a barren Country and wants a Navigable River The three best Churches are the Hospital Church lately built very fair St. Laurence which is very large with two high Steeples in the Front and St. Sebald the best of the three The Body of St. Sebald being laid upon a Cart drawn with Oxen in that place where the Oxen stood still they buried the Body and erected this Church in his memory In this Church is a Crucifix of Wood very well carved and esteemed at a high rate The Crucifix without the Church is very great and of a black colour and some fancy that the Raht Herrn or Magistrates of the Town have reposited a Treasure within it The Pulpit is well carved and gilded and the whole Church so stately that it may pass in the first rank of Lutheran Churches that Religion being here practised in its splendour The Priest every morning reads the Scripture to the people for half an hour or preacheth a Sermon The Town-house is well worth the seeing In it the Hall is spacious as also the Chambers and furnished with good Pictures and Stones well gilded and painted with white and gold green and gold dark coloured and gold and the like There is one Picture of most of the Great Persons in Germany entertained in the Great Hall another of the three Brothers of Saxony one of an Elephant as big as the life a piece of St. John and St. Mark and another of St. Peter and St. Paul both by Albert Durer but the most rare piece is that of Adam and Eve by the same Master with this Inscription Albertus Durer Almang faciebat post Virginis partum 1507. Another excellent one is that of St. Luke drawing the Picture of our Saviour and the blessed Virgin Over the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxe carved in Wood and painted over with this Inscription Omnia habent ortus suaque incrementa sed ecce Quem cernis nunquam Bos fuit hic Vitulus The Castle standeth upon a high Hill from whence the Town makes a handsome show In it are observable a very deep well the Emperors Chappel his Picture and the Pictures of the Electors good Night pieces and one of a man behind a white Curtain transparent very well expressed The Armour of Hebbele van Gailinghen the great Sorcerer is here shown and in the Wall of the Castle the marks of his Horses feet when he leaped from thence over the Town ditch The new Fountain was not then finished but the Statua's in Brass made for it were excellent the Sea-Horses large the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life and Neptune who was to stand on the top is above three yards and a half high When I came first into this place I was not a little surprized to behold the fairness of the Houses handsome Sreets different Habits industrious People and neatness in all things more than I had observed in German Cities before and no place hath greater number of curious Artificers in Steel Brass Ivory Wood wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap rate and there are Officers to inspect and enquire into the works of Artificers that they be true perfect and without fraud they make strong and handsome Clock-work The King of Poland presented the Grand Signior with a very noble Clock who took so much delight in it that when it required some mending the Turks being ignorant in Clock-work he sent it from Adrianople as far as Nurenburg to be set in order again Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden was more magnificently received and entertained in this City than in any other of Germany which so incensed Wallensteyn that he afterwards encamped before their Town and did great spoil upon their Territories But the King of Sweden marched thither towards their Relief and from thence towards Lutzen where in a bloody Battel he lost his life The River Pegnitz runneth through Nurnberg and hath divers Stone Bridges over it and below the Town joyning with the River Rednitz runneth into the River Main at Bamberg and the Main runs at last into the Rhine The Reduitz ariseth at Weissenberg and is not far from the River Altmul which runneth into the Danube towards Regensburg Upon this convenience Charles the Great designed to make a Communication of passage between the Danube and the Rhine and made a Canale thirty paces broad between the Rednitz and the Altmul to joyn those Streams for the commodity of Passage by Boat but after he had proceeded two German miles in this work Boggs Rains and his warlike Diversions made him give over that noble Design whereby there might have been a Commerce by water from the Low-Countries to Vienna and even unto the Euxine Sea The Roman Lieutenant in Nero's time had a desire to unite the River Soane and the Mosella and to make a passage between the Mediterranean and the German Ocean having been at the mouth of the Mosella by Coblentz and passed from Chaalon upon the soft and noble River Araris or Soane unto Lyon I cannot but think these very goodly Streams and fit for such a purpose The present King of France hath a design to unite the River Aude with the Garonne and so to have a passage by Boat from the Mediterranean Sea by Tholouse and Bourdeaux into the Ocean When I travelled in those parts viewing the Country well I thought it would be a difficult work and so it proveth but the King hath proceeded already very far therein About four Leagues from Nurnberg lyeth Altdorff belonging unto it made an University in the year 1623. containing when I was there about 150 Scholars The Physick Garden is handsome and well stocked with Plants to the number of two thousand Dr. Hoffman the Botanick and Anatomick Professour shew'd me many of the most rare of them and presented me with divers The Anatomy School is not large yet the only one in those parts of Germany And they have divers Curiosities preserved in it as the Skeleton of a
wheel is turned which lets out the water which turns the wheel and also the water which cometh out of the Mine into the Neighbouring Valley 2. The washing of the Ore or Stone which they perform as at other works by letting the water over it and stirring it and this they do wheresoever they begin to work near the Superficies of the Earth for there the Calmey is less and more mixed with Clay and Earth but the most remarkable work is the calcining of the Ore for all our Lapis Calaminaris of the Shops is the calcined Calmey and it is worth the seeing for they place Faggots in a handsome order first and cover a large round Area with them of about Forty or Fifty yards Diameter upon which they place Charcoal in as good an order till all be covered and filled up a yard from the ground then they place ranks of the largest Stones of Calmey and after them smaller till they have laid all on and then by setting fire to the bottom the fire comes to each stone and all is handsomely calcined From hence we went to Limburg meeting with divers Souldiers upon the Road who desired mony of us but did not attempt any thing against us we being many of us together in Company Limburg is seated upon a high Rock which overlooks all the Country and a little River runneth almost round it at the bottom The Avenue to the Town on the North-side is difficult all along upon the edge of the Rock and the Gate of the Town over which is the Governour 's House spreads it self from one side of the Rock to the other and locketh up the passage Here we shew our Pasports from the Spanish Plenipotentiaries and in the Afternoon had a pleasant Journey to the Spaa In the way we saw where the French Army had passed the Country towards Metz having lain about a Fortnight at Vichet after the taking of Maestreicht Spà is a neat Villedge in the Forest of Ardenna seated in a bottom encompassed on all sides with Hills and on the North with steep Mountains So that it happening to rain while we were there the place was in some hours time filled with water the Hay washed out of the Meadows the falls in the River made even and Pohunt one of the Mineral Fountains was drowned There was not much Company when we were there although it were in the hottest time of the year which is most seasonable for drinking the waters by reason of the wars and the danger of coming through the Country to them But in Spà it self all people are free from danger all the Neighbouring Princes protecting it and would count it very dishonourable to disturb a place which by the virtue of its Mineral Springs is so beneficial to Mankind These Waters are not only drunk upon the place but are also sealed up in Bottles and sent into many parts of Europe And Mr. Coquelet at whose House we lodged told me that he sent it as far as Saragossa in Spain and that he had at that time Thirty thousand Bottles empty and waited for a good season to fill them which is the hottest dryest time of the Summer and the hardest Frost in Winter at which times the water is strongest sparkling and brisk The chiefest of these Mineral Fountains are these Geronster Saviniere Tonnelet and Pohunt Geronster is in the middle of a thick Wood about an English mile and a half Southward of the Spà it is the strongest of any and the best adorned being built up with stone and a Pavilion over it supported with four handsome stone Pillars There is a green place cleared in the Wood near to it and a little House for the Patients to warm themselves in early in the morning or in cold weather The Arms of Sr Conrad Bourgsdorff who adorned this Fountain are placed over on two sides and on the other two this Inscription in French and High-dutch in a handsome Oval Le Reverendissime Excellentissime Sr Sr Conrade Bourgsdorff Grand Chamberlan premier Conseiller d'Estat Colonel Gouverneur General de tous les Forts Forteresses du Serenissime Electeur de Brandebourg dans son Estat Electoral Grand Prevost des Eglises Cathedrales d'Halberstadt Brandebourg Chevalier de l'Ordre de St. Jean Commandeur du Baillage de Lagow de gros Machenau Golbeck Bouckow Oberstorff c. c. c. This Fountain smelleth very strong of Brimstone and causeth vomiting in a great many yet passeth chiefly by Urine as they do all and strikes a purple with Nut-galls more inclining to red than the waters of Tunbridge The Sediment is of a light blew in the Fountain but of a dark dirty red every where else Not far from this is another large Spring in the Wood much like it but not as yet built and beautified Saviniere is another Fountain almost as far from the Spà Eastward and built after the manner of a Tower the Acidulae are not so strong as the former There is another Fountain hard by this almost the same held to be particularly good for the Stone and Gravel The third is Tonnelet arising in the Meadow and built up with stone But being there are no Trees nor Shades about it it is not so delightful as the others And Henricus ab Heer 's in his Spadacrene saith that this is more nitrous than the rest and causeth such a coldness in the mouth and stomach that few can drink of it The fourth is Pohunt in the middle of the Town from whence most of the water is drawn which is sent abroad if no particular one be sent for This was beautified with handsome Stone-work by the Bishop of Liege to whom this place belongeth and this Inscription set over it Sanitati Sacrum It is also called the Fountain of St. Remaclus to whom it was dedicated and these Verses are likewise engraven upon it Obstructum reserat durum terit humida siccat Debile fortificat si tamen arte bibis i. e. This opens all Obstructions And wears away hard Tumours This strengthneth much the weaker parts And dries up cold moist Humours Being at the Spà we visited Franchimont one Afternoon passing through a thick Wood there is an old Castle and good Brimstone and Vitriol-works the same Stone affording both and I presume may also make the Spa-water under ground or at least be a principal Ingredient in it We saw the manner here how they melted and cast their Brimstone first into great Pails the florid and clear parts remaining at the top and middle the thick and more obscure subsiding and adhering to the bottom and sides and is that which is sold for Sulphur Vivum We saw also the manner of casting the Brimstone into Rolls or Magdaleons And near unto this place a smoaking burning little Hill which is thus caused They throw out the burnt Pyrites out of which Brimstone hath been distilled and the Vitriol drawn out by infusion upon this Hill which
was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Nuns of the Order of St. Clare and converted to this use 1595. They who are put in are forced to work and gain their Bread with hard labour I saw those who rasped Brazil having a certain task set them every day work so hard that being naked and in a sweat and the dust of the Brazil wood flying upon them they were all over painted of a beautiful red colour Which odd sight made me call to mind the Phansie of my Lady Marchioness of Newcastle of a Nation wherein the People were of Orange-tawny colour and the King of Purple They told us that some that were committed to their charge and not to be brought to work by blows they placed in a large Cistern and let the water in upon them placing only a Pump by them for their relief whereby they are forced to labour for their lives and to free themselves from drowning One we saw put into a narrow Dungeon and kept from meat Some are put into this House for a longer time some for a shorter It hath been a punishment for such as have drawn their Daggers or offered to stab any one And some Citizens though able and rich enough contrive it so that when their Sons are extravagant and masterless the Officers seize upon them and carry them into this House where they are not forced to any hard labour but kept in till they see sufficient signs of a mending their life This way of Correction may seem severe to many yet is not comparable to that which is said to have been formerly used in Germany Particularly at Colen in the white Tower at the North end of the Town near the Rhine where it is reported that such Youths who were not otherwise to be reclaimed were in a barbarous manner shut up in the white Tower The height and thickness of the walls secured them from escaping or from their complaints being heard Near the top was placed out of their reach a loaf of bread the last remedy against starving which while their bold necessity forced them to reach at they executed their last sentence upon themselves and miserably brake their own necks Somewhat like the Raspelhuis is the Spinhuis or House of Correction for the young women who live loosely are taken in the night or can give no account of their living They are put in for a certain time according as their fault meriteth and are bound to make lace sew or employ their time perpetually in some honest labour Those of the better sort are permitted to have Chambers apart In one large Room I saw about an hundred of them and some very well dressed and fine which was an unexpected sight to me and would sure be more strange to behold in France and England The Weeshuis or Hospital for Children where there are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked after and well educated The Dolhuis or a House for such as are Delirious Maniacal or Melancholical of both Sexes The Gasthuis or Hospital for the Sick being large and hath a great Revenue The Mannenhuis or Hospital for old Men and such as are no longer able to labour towards their own support Besides all which there are great Sums of mony collected for the poor so that there is not a Begger to be seen in the Streets and upon all assignations or appointments of meeting at the Tavern or elsewhere and upon many other occasions whosoever faileth to come at the exact time forfeiteth more or less to the use of the Poor The East-India-houses are remarkable and the great Stores of their Commodities Cinamon Green-ginger Camphire Pepper Calecuts Indico c. The ships are of a great burden their House was then enlarging although it was great before and a perfect Town for all Trades within it self The Admiralteyt or Admiralty where their Stores for War and Shipping are laid up is encompassed with water near to it there lay then 72 Men of War In the House we saw their Cables Grapling irons Pullies Oars Charges for Powder Lanthorns for ships c. At the entrance of the Gate hangeth up a Canoe with a man in it dryed up so as to be preserved from corruption and a Paddle in his hand he was enclosed up to the waste in the Canoe in such sort as the Fish-skins which were the cover to it being so sewed together that no water could get in he might keep the Sea in the greatest Storms without danger The top of this House as of divers others also in this City is a Reservatory for rain-Rain-water which they have the more need of because they have little good water hereabouts The fairest Streets in the Town are Harlem-street the Cingel Princes Graft Kaisers Graft and the New Buildings in the Island towards Gottenburg And if they continue to build with Freestone they will still surpass these which I 'le assure you are in no small measure beautiful I saw a Globe to be sold made by Vingbomes between six and seven foot Diameter valued at Sixteen thousand Guldens The Meridian alone being of brass cost a thousand Guldens The Globe is made of Copper-plates excellently well painted with all the new Discoveries in it as that of Anthony Van Dimons Land found out 1642. in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude and 170 of Longitude those towards the Northwest of Japan and those places both about N. Z. and also in the Tartarian Sea beyond the Streights of Voygats New-Holland West-Friesland Cape d'Hyver c. but I have since met with a Book which doth somewhat contradict this entituled A Voyage into the Northern Countries by Monsieur Martiniere who went in one of the three ships belonging to the Northern Company of Copenhagen in the year 1653. and by that means had occasion to converse with the Norwegians Islanders Laplanders Kilops Borandians Siberians Zemblians and Samojedes who are Neighbours to the Tartars and Tingorses in his 46 Chapter he expresseth himself after this manner There having fallen into my hands several Geographical Charts of sundry eminent and much celebrated Authors I am much amazed to see how they are mistaken in the position of Zembla which they place much nearer the North Pole than really it is they divide it likewise by the Sea from Greenland and place it far distant from it when as indeed those two Countries are Contiguous the Coasts of Greenland butting upon the Coasts of Zembla so as did not the great quantity of Snow and the violence of the cold render those Borders uninhabitable the passage would be very easie by Land from Greenland to Zembla and from Zembla passing the Pater-noster Mountains to enter into Samojedia from thence into Tartary or Muscovy as one pleased But of the truth of this we shall be further informed at the return of Captain Wood. I was amazed likewise to see they had described the Streight called Voygat not above ten French Leagues in length whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch Leagues which is
curiosities in this City carrying me with him in his Coach The Walls of Antwerp are very large faced with Brick and freestone having divrs rows of Trees upon them broad walks and conveniences for the Coaches to make their tour upon The Bastions are not so large as generally they build now a dayes yet after the modern way The Ditch is very broad and deep the Country about it all Gardens The Cittadel is a regular fortification of five Bastions wherein lies alwayes a Garrison of Spanish Soldiers upon every curtain there are two mounts or Cavaliers and between them below a row of building or lodgings for the Soldiers the ears of the Bastions are cut down and Casamates made and Palisados set round upon the Esplanade the Walls are lined with excellent Brick and stone nor is there any where a more regular beautifull Fortification of five Bastions that is finished it commands the City the River and the Country besides this Cittadel there is another Fort within the Town near the Scheld to command the River having eight Guns in it called St. Laurence Fort. The Exchange is handsome supported by 36 Pillars every one of a different carving four streets lead unto it so that standing in the middle we see through every one of them The Meer or Largest street is considerable for the water running under it and for the meeting of Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the streets of the City which are clean and beautiful at one end of it stands a large Brass Crucifix upon a Pedestall of Marble The Jesuites Church goeth far beyond any of that bigness that I have seen out of Italy The Front is noble with the Statua of Ignatius Loyola on the top A great part of the inside of the Roof was painted by Rubens and some of it by Van Dyke there be many Excellent peeces of flowers done by Segers a Iesuite the Carving and gilding of all the works is exquisite The Library of the Colledge is great the Books disposed handsomely into four Chambers the Founder hereof was Godfridus Houtappel whose Monument together with his Wife and Children are worth the seeing in a Chappel on the South side of this Church In the Church of the Carmelites is a large Silver Statua of our Lady and models of Cityes in stone Onsar Lieven Vrowen Kerck or the Church of our blessed Lady is the greatest in the City and the Steeple one of the fairest in the World five hundred foot high one of their feet is eleven of our inches so as it is 459 of our feet In this Church there is much Carving and a great number of Pictures highly esteemed among which one piece is much taken notice of drawn by Quintin at first a Smith who made the neat Iron work of the Well before the West door and afterwards to obtain his Mistress he proved a famous Painter his head is set up in Stone at the entrance of the Church with an inscription and this verse Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael pleasantly seated upon the Scheld where among other curiosities I saw a glass which represented the Pictures of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary collected from the Putting together of divers other heads One was represented from a Picture wherein were thirteen faces and another from one of twelve over the blessed Virgin was this Inscription Diva nitet variis expressa Maria Figuris The Countess of Brabants Tombe who was drowned and her Statua as also the Monument of Ortelius are here shewn Macarius Simoneus was then Abbot the Monks 63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. Walburgis an English Saint who contributed much towards the conversion of these Countries The Town-house is fair the House built for the East-country Merchants is very stately and large but runneth now to ruine in this I saw among other curiosities divers strange Musical instruments which at present are not understood or at least not made use of The Hessen house hath been also formerly considerable The water which they make use of in Brewing is brought by an Aqueduct from Herentall about thirty miles distant from hence and is conveyed into the Town by a large Channel peculiarly walled in by it self where it passeth the Ditch in this City are many good Collections of Pictures both Ancient and Modern and excellent Miniature or Limning by Gonsol one fine piece which I saw was peculiarly remarkable it being the work of 35 several Masters From Antwerp I passed to Brussels by water changing Boats five times and going through divers locks by reason that the Country is so much higher about Brussels and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerp At Fontaine a league and half from Brussels three Rivers cross one another one of them being carried over a bridg The Piazza of Brussels is fair and oblong in figure upon one of the longest sides stands the Town-house and over against it the Kings-house where upon a Scaffold hanged with Velvet Count Fgmond and Horne were beheaded the whole Piazza being hanged with Black Cloth Upon the top of the Town-house stand St. Michael the Patron of the City in Brass Count Marsins house formerly belonging to the Prince of Orange hath a fair Court and overlooks a good part of the City but a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning The Thunder bolt or Stone which they affirm to have effected it is bigger than two Mens heads and hangs up upon the door at the entrance The Iesuites Church is handsome and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded at the top The Carmelites Church hath a noble Altar and near unto the Church is the Statua of a pissing boy which is a continual Conduit The Armory was well furnished as we were informed before the Governours of the low Countries sold the Arms and Cassel Roderigo the Governour left it very bare There remains the Armour of Charls the fifth of Duke Albert of the Prince of Parma Ernestus and of the Duke d'Alva and of the Duke Alberts horse who being shot saved his Master and died the same day twelve month Spears for the hunting the wild Boar one with two Pistols The Armour of Cardinal Infante and of an Indian King A Polish musket which carrieth six hundred paces Charles the Fifth's Sword for the making the Knights of the Golden Fleece and Henry the Fourth's Sword sent to declare war Good Bucklers for Defence and some well wrought especially one with the Battel of Pyrrhus and his Elephants and Banners taken with Francis King of France at the Battel of Pavia Somewhat like Godfrey of Bouillons shooting the three Pigeons near the Tower of David is the shot which Infanta Isabella made when with an Arrow she killed a Bird in memory whereof a Bird pierced with an Arrow is set upon the top of a Tower in the Count which is large and if the New Buildings
stood an Altar in honour of Domitian called Ara Flaviana In this Church lieth the Body of that famous and learned Person Wolfgangus Lazius with this Epitaph or Inscription Magnifico Nobili Clarissimo atque summâ eruditione ornatissimo viro Domino Wolfgango Latzio Vien Philosophiae atque Medicinae Doctori Professori Primario Celeberrimi Archigymnasii Viennensis Rectori Superintendenti Caesareo ejusdem Sacrae Caesareae Majest Ferdinandi Sanctissimae memoriae Consiliario Historico Peritissimo defuncto Anno Domini MDLXXXVI In the Church of the Capucines Convent are interred the Emperour Matthias and his Empress and the Empress Maria wife to Ferdinand the Third who out of their Devotion and Humility chose to be buried in a Church of this poor Order And the Capucines not admitting of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches as in the Churches of other Orders no Tombs are erected worthy so great an Emperour and such Empresses But the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen containeth divers Monuments of many Princes and Great Persons and is a large stately Building but somewhat dark by reason of the thick painted Glass not covered with Lead but with Tiles of wood which is the only blemish thereof yet makes a good show The Steeple and Spire are very remarkable as being high large strong and handsome On the top or Weathercock-place of the Spire stands a Cross under a Star and half Moon according to the Figure I have elsewhere set down which the People think to be of Gold or at least very well gilded and in the time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and whitish They have this Account how these came first to be set up in this place That when Solyman the Magnificent besieged Vienna perceiving the Forces in the City to be obstinate he had an intent to batter down the Steeple about their ears But some of the Bassa's and great Commanders advertising him how unprofitable a business it would prove and withal when he took the City what an honour it would be unto him to have such a Noble Pyramid in his Dominions He sent word into the Town That he was willing to spare the Steeple upon condition that they would set up the half Moon and Star the Turkish Arms upon the top thereof They returned Answer that they would if he would send the same unto them which he did and they placed it where it standeth This Spire hath the largest Crockets I have observed in any they being above a yard long and adorned with foliage work The Spire of Landshute in Bavaria is accounted the highest in Germany that of Strasburg the neatest and fairest and this of Vienna the largest and strongest And therefore it is no wonder that when the Ambassadours of Bosna formerly came unto Vienna they so often viewed and admired this Fabrick and plainly said that all the mony in their Country was not sufficient to have built it This Steeple is accounted about four hundred sixty and five foot high being about half way up three hundred and thirty eight steps Besides other Hills I could see Haimburger Hill within two miles of Presburg and a great part of Austria which the long Course of the Danube rendred very pleasant and delightful unto the eye In the Chamber or Room from whence I had this prospect there is a Clock whose Case being of wood was in part burnt down by Lightning and therefore there is water always kept in this place to extinguish the fire and a man continually watcheth in the place where the Bells hand There is also an Instrument of wood or wooden Bells or Hammers which they make use of from Good-friday till Easter-sunday all the time that our Saviour was in the Grave during which time they permit no Bells to ring The Cathedrall Church of S. t Stephen in Vienna In this Church of St. Stephen besides many Monuments of great Princes and famous Persons divers learned men have Sepulchral Inscriptions as Johannes Faber Bishop of Vienna Johannes Cuspinianus and Sebastianus Tengnagelius formerly Library-keeper Historiographer and Counsellor to the Emperour an extraordinary learned man and skilful in fifteen Languages as the Inscription delivers as Hebrew Syriack Chaldee Persian Arabick Turkish Aethiopick Greek Latin Italian French Spanish German Belgick and English The University of Vienna is also remarkable if we conssider the Antiquity thereof the number of Scholars their course of Studies their accommodations priviledges and advancements This is said to have been begun by Albertus the Third above three hundred years past and their Rules Orders and Statutes to have been borrowed from the University of Paris and the Students were distinguished into four Divisions or Nations who besides the General have their particular Rules and Officers and were comprehended under the Classis of Austrians Nations of the Rhine Hungarians and Saxons In the Austrian Division were contained the Friulians all of the Diocese of Trent all Italy with the other Provinces beyond the Mountains 〈…〉 vian the Classis of the Rhine were comprehended Sueâ—â—â—â—â— Alsatians Franconians Hassians d all the Provinces to the South-west as France Spain Navarre Holland Brabant In the third Classis or Natio Hungariae were contained Hungarians Bohemians Polonians Moravians Sclavonians all that speak the Sclavonian Tongue and also Germans To the Classis or Natio Saxonum were reduced Saxons Westphalians Frislanders Turingians Misnians Brandenburgers Prussians Livonians Lusatians Pomeranians with the Ultramarine Kingdoms of England Scotland Ireland Sweden Norway and Denmark These Divisions take up all the Nations of Europe and indeed there are Students here of many Nations and upon Contentions and Differences the several Classes will hold unto their own and take parts and bandy against each other but will all unite and hold together in differences with Towns-men or Jews which happen sometimes unto an high degree They follow here the old beaten way of Knowledge and I met with few who had any good insight in new Philosophy but there are many good Philologers and are well versed in Languages History and Antiquity and there are many Learned Men either educated here or come from other parts Some who had taken notice of the Royal Society in London were very inquisitive after it and when I had satisfied them in all particulars were very much pleased therewith If they should fall into the way of Experimental Philosophy being very industrious 't is very probable they may do much therein and they were sure to have the countenance of the Emperour I found them also much affected with the English Society in other parts of Germany At the University of Altorff I was much enquired of concerning it and a Magistrate of Nurnburg who had got a Telescope from London invited me to his House to practise the way of using it Der Herr von Adlershelme of Leipsick a Person of great Curiosity was very inquisitive after the same Society And of late years the Curiosi of Germany have held Learned Conventions and
finely dressed up with her hands before her The Malefactor salutes her first and then retireth But at his second salute she openeth her hands and cuts his Heart in sunder Though the Winter was sharp yet the advantage of Stoves and lying between two Feather-beds made it tolerable For they use Stoves here as in other parts of Germany where they lodge and eat in Stoves and great Persons have Stoves in the Church or such as look into the Church There are Stoves also in the publick Schools where Lectures are read And this way of lying between two Feather-beds with a neat laced sheet spread over is more convenient in a cold Country than most others they make use of For in the common Inns in Germany they generally sleep upon Straw and also in Hungary almost every where and more Easterly upon the ground spreading a Carpet or Saddle-cloath under them and more Northerly they content themselves with the Skins of Beasts Bears Elks or the like upon which they sleep in the night Those that sleep lowest are coolest in a Stove those that lye upon Tables Benches or higher are more exposed to the heat The Citizens of Vienna are well attired and use Furs very much The Women wear a high Velvet Bonnet lined or faced therewith The Place seemed to be healthful but they speak much of the Colica Austriaca as an Endemial and Local Disease very hardly yielding unto good Medicines They speak good German at the Court and in the City but the Common and Country people seemed to speak grumblingly and besides their accent have divers words different from other parts They have a Custome upon St. Nicholas-day to put some small Gift into the Childrens shoes among other things they put in Medals and Dollars made of paper and flower gilded and silvered over yet scarce worth a penny They sell Trochies or Tablets in the Markets made of the pulpe of the Fruit of Hip-briar made sharp with Spirit of Sulphur very refreshing Some carry about them a Thunder-stone as a defence against Thunder and they rub their Childrens Gums with a Wolfs tooth instead of Coral When I was at Venice in the time of the Carnival I observed many Recreations and Shews as Rope-dancing flying down the Rope cutting off Bulls-necks with Swords and many other But at Vienna a notable trick which I saw there pleased me much A man of a middle Stature laid down upon his back and a heavy Anvil was placed upon his Breast as much as two men could well lift then two other men with great Hammers laid on until they had given almost an hundred blows and cut in sunder a great Horshoe of iron about half an inch thick Here is no Christian Religion publickly permitted but the Roman and therefore those of the Protestant and Reformed Religion are fain to resort unto Presburg Forty miles off for which they have some convenience by the Danube and a Coach which goeth every day In the time of Maximilian the Second they were permitted the Exercise of their Religion in the Church of the Holy Cross in the City of Vienna But afterwards were prohibited by Rodolphus the Second The Emperour Matthias gave them permission to meet at Hernals a little more than an English mile from Vienna and gave leave to their Ministers to come into the City and there to christen marry baptize and visit the sick From which time they encreased very much till Ferdinand the Second returning from the Battel of Prague banished their Minister from Vienna and Arnols sent the Freyherr Jorger to whom the Castle of Arnolds belonged Prisoner unto Lintz and never gave over till he had taken away their Priviledges and Freedom of meeting publickly in any part of lower Austria But here are no small number of Jews who have a distinct Habitation assigned them over the Water They have also a Street allowed them in the City for the day time but they must all depart at night beyond the River into the Suburbs They are much distasted by the Citizens and Tradesmen and the Scholars agree but ill with them While I was at Vienna there was a quarrel between them to an high degree For the Scholars assaulted the Jews Town beat wounded and threw divers of them into the River Divers Scholars were wounded some killed and also some Souldiers who were commanded out to compose the Fray and the Jews Town was guarded many days by the Souldiers of the City This begot such ill Blood and Complaints that a good number of the Jews were to be banished at a certain day The Jews to ingratiate with the Empress then with Child presented her with a noble Silver Cradle but she would not receive it And there was great danger of the general banishment of them when I left that City which was afterwards effected they being severely prohibited from living not only at Vienna but in any part of Austria where there were formerly whole Villages of them so as they were forced to betake themselves into the Dominions of the Turk unto Venice into Poland and Bohemia They being not permitted to dwell in the Neighbour Countries of Hungary subject to the Emperour Styria or Carinthia I must confess they seemed useful unto the place for ready accommodation of any thing either by sale or exchange but the people looked with an evil eye upon them as taking away much of their Trade and Employment They also looked upon them as useless in war for defence of the place and were not without some jealousie that they held correspondence with the Turks and gave Intelligence of their Affairs unto them Yet the Souldiery dealt much with them and Captains for the suddain habiting furnishing and accommodating of their Companies And dining one day with a Commander at a Jews House amongst other Discourse I asked the Jew concerning the ten Tribes and where they were He said they were far off in Asia beyond a great Lake which was continually stormy and scarce passable but upon their Sabbath-day upon which days the Jews do not willingly travel I have seen their Circumcision at Rome Padua and other parts Their Physicians ordinarily profess great skill in Urines and the common people resort unto them rather than unto Christians and are so credulous and have such an opinion of them that they might be made to believe they have some old Receipts of King Solomon There are many Jews in Italy yet they seem to me to be in greater numbers in Germany In Amsterdam they are also grown very numerous At Franckfurt they told me there were seven thousand of them which seemed scarce credible At Colen they are in great numbers at Hamburg not a few But the greatest number surely is in Prague Though they be permitted in many Countries yet divers Christian Princes and States have assigned them some mark in their Habits to distinguish them In Avignon their Hats are yellow In Italy their Hats are covered over with Taffate In Germany they wear Ruffs
consists all of the same matter which ferments in time grows hot smoaks and burns perpetually and withal drinks in a new Vitriol into its self From the Spà we crossed over to Frapont a Village seated upon the pleasant River Uta or Ourte where we took Boat and went down a rapid Stream yet one of the pleasantest I ever saw winding and turning between so many green Hills in part of the Forest of Arduenna We descended afterwards thirty or forty small Falls in a long Boat made on purpose The Oar or Paddle being only a square piece of Board fixed to the end of a Pole the Pole standing perpendicularly in the middle of it The delightful River Vesa or the Wesdret soon met us and joyning together we fell down with them into the Maes near Liege Upon the Banks of these Rivers all the Arms Guns and other Instruments are made for which the Country of Liege is remarkable Liege Luick Leodium or Augusta Eburonum Learned Men think this City to be seated near that Valley wherein two Legions of Julius Caesar under Sabinus and Cotta were destroyed by Ambiorix chief Commander of the Eburones It is seated upon the River Mosa which entring with two Streams makes some pretty Islands Three other small Rivers arising in the Forest of Ardenna are also here received into the Maes whereby they have plenty of Fish and other Conveniencies The City is very populous and so it hath been in former Ages when as Charles Duke of Purgunay sacked it and destroyed an hundred thousand of the people It aboundeth with fair Churches stately Convents and Religious Foundations richly endowed so that it hath been called the Paradise of Priests and is in that kind the most notable in all these parts The Palace of the Bishop is a noble Fabrick built by Cardinal Erardus Bishop of Liege The Cathedral beareth the Name of St. Lambert who being Bishop of Maestreicht was murdered by Dodo and others about the year 622. The See was afterwards translated unto Liege by Hubertus as it had been formerly from Tongres to Maestreicht and the Body of St. Lambert removed unto this Church which is at present very noble being built of a reddish Stone very much carved without and handsomely adorned within Between the Quire and Sacristy is this Inscription in very large Letters D. O. M. Intemeratae Virgini Mariae Sancto Lamberto Ecclesiae Patriae Divis Tutelaribus Maximilianus Henricus utriusque Bavariae Dux Archiepiscopus Elector Coloniensis Episcopus Princeps Leodiensis Ernesti Ferdinandi Bavariae Ducum Episcoporum Principum Leodiensium Nepos Successor in sui Praedecessorum memoriam Ponebat MDCLVIII The Canons hereof are of great riches and power and have the Election of the Bishop and Prince who hath also had the Titles of Duke of Bouillon Marquiss of Franchimont and Count of Lootz and Hasbania In the Coin of Maximilian the present Elector of Colen and Bishop of Liege I find this Inscription Maximilianus Henricus Dei gratiâ Archiepiscopus Coloniensis Episcopus Princeps Leodiensis Supremus Bullonensis Dux Speutus the Bishop of Liege bought the Principality of Liege of Godfrey of Bouillon when he went to the Holy Land And in the Treaty of Cambray 1559. the possession of Bouillon and precedency of Title was granted to the Bishop of Liege although at this time also the Houses of La Tour and Mark do bear the same Of the Parish Churches that of St. John and of St. Servasius are fair Of the Abbies that of St. Jacob within the Town and of St. Lawrence built by Bishop Raginardus upon an Hill out of the Town are noble There is also a Colledge of English Jesuites well-seated upon a Hill where the Garden is handsome and the Dyals made by Franciscus Linus are worth the seeing And an English Nunnery handsomely built In the Church of the Gulielmites out of the Town lieth the Body of our famous Country-man Sir John Mandeville who after he had travelled through so many parts took an affection unto this place and here passed the remainder of his life and whose Epitaph and some Rarities of his are still to be seen Bishop Notger who was consecrated by St. Gereon Arch-bishop of Colen and died in the year 1007. built the walls of this City and being Tutor to Otho the third he found means very much to beautifie it to repair and build divers Churches and endow them with rich Revenues and let the River Maes into the Town which before ran upon one side of it As their Churches are fair and numerous so are their Bells and Chimes remarkable In the Cathedral of St. Lambert there are eight large Bells and twelve lesser and there is one so great as it is said to require Twenty four men to ring it In the Church of St. Paul the Bells and Chimes are considerable as also at St. Lawrence and the crossed Friers It is also an University and was so famous in former Ages that they still take notice that at one time there have been Nine Sons of Kings Twenty four Dukes Sons Twenty nine of Counts besides many of great Barons Students therein Their Speech here as also at Spaw is called Roman and is a kind of old French or Dialect of that Language a great part of which is made up of Latin or Roman words and they call the Neighbouring Language of the Dutch Tuiscon But many speak very good French They have some Vineyards affording a small Wine The Hills about furnish them with Quarries of good Stone and of several kinds They have also divers Mines and Minerals and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire in some places fetched deep out of the Earth in others nearer the Surface and in one place I saw them beginning to dig where they immediately found Coal Their Pumps and Engines to draw out the water are very considerable at these Mines in some places moved by Wheels at above a Furlongs distance to which they are continued by strong Wood-work which moves backwards and forwards continually The Citadel standeth upon a Hill and is of great Strength It was built to keep the City of Liege under Subjection For 1649. there being some disturbances in the City Ferdinand the Elector of Colen offering to come into the Town to appease it was opposed by the Consul Jacobus Hennet who was soon after surprised and beheaded together with Bartholomaeus Rolandus the Consul having sworn the Elector should never come in whilst he were alive And the Citadel soon after was ordered to be built The Bridges are handsome that over the great Stream of the Maes is very broad and fair and hath large Arches From hence we could read the Elector's name upon the Citadel Maximilianus although it were at a very great distance the Letters were so large From Liege we had a pleasant passage down the Water to Maestreicht passing by Argentau a Castle seated upon a high Rock on the right side of the River belonging
There are divers Piazza's large and fair in one of which stands a large gilded Statua of Charles the Fifth Emperour and King of Spain who was born in this City The whole Town is generally well-built and the Streets are fair and clean The Inhabitants hereof have been taken notice of to be extreamly given to Sedition and for their sakes a great many other Cities in Europe are punished and have in a manner totally lost their Liberties For the Spaniards to curb the Seditious humour of the People of Ghent were put upon the Invention of building Citadels in Cities whereby a few Souldiers are able to suppress any Commotion or beat down the Town so that here I saw the first Citadel that was built in Europe by Charles the Fifth It is not large and the Bastions little and though of a Regular Figure yet not so convenient as those of latter days since that Art hath been improved From Ghent we passed by water about Twenty English miles to Bruges a very elegant large City and formerly a place of very great Trade being within three Leagues of the Sea so that from the tops of their highest Buildings the Ships under Sail are visible and at the same time a Fleet of Ships and a large Territory of a fruitful pleasant Country cometh under your eye It is fortified with Works of Earth and deep Ditches The Convents are numerous The artificial Cuts of Water from this Town to all places maketh it of easie access and though it hath no Port the Passage from hence to Ostend by water is short And they are at present upon a Design of bringing Ships up to this City Ostend is about Ten English miles from Bruges seated upon the waves of the German Ocean which wash it continually on one side And they have now contrived it so as to let the Sea in almost round the Town for a great space whereby it is become much more strong and defensible than before For when I looked upon it and considered what it was when it was besieged by Archduke Albertus and taken by Marquiss Ambrosius Spinola 1604. with an honourable Surrender after three years Siege I cannot but ascribe very much unto their Supplies from England and the obstinate Valour of the Defendants especially the English under Sir Francis Vere Sluys being in the hands of the States of the United Provinces and Dunkirk under the French The Spaniards possess no other Port in Flanders but this and Newport and this being the most considerable they are now making the Haven large and are upon a considerable Work in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut which goeth from Ostend to Bruges out of their Harbour by the means of a very great Lock or Receptacle of Water which is to communicate with both which when it is finished may be very advantageous to the Traffick of the Spanish Netherlands This Town stands very low but the Streets are streight large and uniform From hence I went all along upon the Sea-shoar to Newport a handsome Town with large fair Streets but low built There were then a great number of small Ships in the Harbour This place is famous for the Battel of Newport fought here by Albertus and Count Maurice wherein the Spanish Forces lost the day and much of the honour of the Field was due unto the English under Sir Francis Vere since which time although there hath been much blood shed in these Quarters yet there hath not been so considerable a Battel ever since although the English had also the fortune to do great Service hereabout at a fight called the Battel of the Sandhils when a part of the Army of French and English which besieged Dunkirk fought with the Spanish Forces by Newport and overthrew them From Newport we put to Sea sailing out of the Harbour and intending for England but the wind being very high and contrary after having been at Sea all the night and had leisure to take notice of the great number of Sands upon that Coast in the morning we put into Mardike where at present there is only a Fort of Wood just above the high-High-water mark with some few Guns mounted The other Fort more into the Land being demolished Dunkirk is much increased of late and the King of France hath not spared mony to render it considerably strong He hath very near finished a noble Citadel begun by the English while this Town was in their possession which hath the Sea on one side of it the Haven on another and the Sandhills towards the Land which when the wind is at South-west doth somewhat annoy it To prevent which the French have made divers Cuts and Chanels through the Sands into which the Sea entring doth moisten and fix the Sand so as they are not so apt to fly And every Bastion is sprucely kept and covered within with green Turf Beyond the old Wall of the Town there are now great Works drawn which encompass so large a space of Ground that the Town is made bigger by half And in this part stands the English Nunnery and many handsome Buildings The new Fortifications are very large and the Bastion towards the North the most stately upon which the King of France entertained the Duke of Monmouth The Port is large and capable of receiving a great number of Ships but at low water it is almost dry and there are so many Sands before it that at that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of it From Dunkirk we travelled by Land to Graveling where the Works are of Earth large and high the Church stately the Streets broad but the Houses low and at present not populous From Graveling I came to Calais from whence setting Sail in the morning we came to Dover and the same day to London FINIS A Catalogue of some Books Printed for Benj-Tooke at the Ship in St. Paul's Church-yard THe Works of the Most Reverend Father in God John Bramhall late L. Arch-Bish of Ardmagh Fol. Several Chirurgical Treatises by Richard Wiseman Serjeant Chirurgion to his Majesty Fol. Skinneri Etymologicon Linguae Anglicanae Fol. Bishop Sanderson ' s Sermons Fol. Bentivolio and Urania by N. Ingelo D. D. Fol. Mr. Faringdon ' s Sermons compleat Three Vol. Fol. Dr. Heylin on the Creed Fol. Lord Bacon ' s Advancement of Learning Fol. Lightfoot Horae Hebraicae in Johannem Quarto Dr. Brown ' s Travels in Hungaria Servia Bulgaria Macedonia Thessaly Austria Styria Carinthia Carniola and Friuli with Sculptures Quarto A Representation of the State of Christianity in England and of its decay and danger from Sectaries as well as Papists Langhornii Elenchus Antiquitatum Albionensium Oct. Batei Elenchus Motuum Nuperorum in Anglia Johannis Stearne de Obstinatione Opus Posthumum Praefixa sunt Prolegomena Apologetica Octavo Two Letters of Advice 1. For susception of H. Orders 2. For Studies Theological especially such as are Rational Oct. Some Considerations of present Concernment how far the Romanists may be trusted by Princes of another Perswasion 8. Two short Discourses against the Romanists 1. An Account of the Fundamental Principle of Popery and of the Insufficiency of the Proofs they have for it 2. An Answer to Six Queries 12. These four by Henry Dodwell M. A. sometimes Fellow of Trinity Colledge near Dublin
AN ACCOUNT OF Several Travels Through a great part of GERMANY In Four Journeys I. From Norwich to Colen II. From Colen to Vienna with a particular Description of that Imperial City III. From Vienna to Hamburg IV. From Colen to London WHEREIN The Mines Baths and other Curiosities of those Parts are Treated of Illustrated with Sculptures By EDWARD BROWN M. D. Fellow of the College of Physicians of London and of the Royal Society LONDON Printed for Benj. Tooke and are to be sold at the Sign of the Ship in St. Paul's Church-yard 1677. Imprimatur G. Jane R. P. D. Hen. Episc Lond. à Sacris Dom. Sept. 26. 1676. TO THE READER HAving given the English World an Account of some remote and seldome travelled Countries of Europe in the Year 1673. I remained indifferent as to the publishing any thing more concerning nearer or better known places a great part whereof hath been delivered by some good and observing Writers upon which consideration though written some years since these Papers have not come abroad and had still remained private had not the desires of Friends solicited this Publication and also a Promise in my former Book oblig'd me to say something of Vienna as likewise my Journey unto that Place from England by the Belgian Provinces and Germany and of my Return from Vienna by Austria Trans-Danubiana Moravia Bohemia Misnia Saxonia unto Hamburg hereof I have therefore given some Account in this Work not much engaging into the Policy and State Government of Places which have been so largely delivered as to make up just Volumes but have rather set down what is Naturally Artificially Historically and Topographically remarkable together with some Customes and Occurrencies which might be acceptable unto the Inquisitive Reader or serve as hints of further Enquiry to such Persons as may hereafter Travel into those Parts A JOURNEY FROM NORWICH TO COLEN in GERMANY IN the year 1668. I left the large and pleasant City of Norwich and went by land to Yarmouth a Port Town in Norfolk at the mouth of the River Hierus or Yare large fairly built and populous very considerable for the great Herring fishing in the Autumn and the commerce it maintaineth in the Streights Baltick British and German Seas With Italians French Spaniards Dutch Danes and Swedes I was here nobly entertained by that worthy and obliging person Sr. Iames Iohnson who also furnish't me with letters of Credit to Amsterdam Franckfort Venice and Vienna Whereby I was readily and handsomely accommodated in all Parts where I had afterwards occasion to travel August the 14. about six a clock at night I went aboard the Angel-Ketch in Yarmouth Road a Vessel of about 55 Tuns and we immediately set sayl for Rotterdam we left St. Nicholas-Sand on the Larboard and after that the Nowles a new Sand not taken notice of to be raised above twelve years before We kept our course all night East and by South and East South East The Sea burned at the head of the Ship at the beginning of the night but the Moon rising there appeared nothing but froth In the morning we discovered Gravesandt Steeple It is the custom upon all this coast to send out Pylot-boats continually to meet all Ships at Sea and furnish them with Pylots to bring them through the sands and no Ship is to refuse one Having taken in our Pylot we soon discovered Goréé Steeple and then the Briel We entred the River Mosa or Maes a Large and noble Stream which arising in the Mountaines of Vauge or Vogesus passing by Verdun Dinant Namur Liege Maestricht Ruremond Venlo and many considerable Places doth here fall into the Ocean we had a very pleasant passage up the River sayling by many neat Villages as Maese-sluys Schedam Delfshaven and handsome rowes of Trees upon the shore and arrived at Rotterdam about six at night This is one of the three chief passages by Sea into Holland the other being by Flushing and the Texell The nearest cut out of England into Holland is from Laistoffe Point to Gravesandt which is 28 Leagues and the deepest part of the Sea is about 28 Fathoms There lay two of the greatest Ships in Holland at that time near Rotterdam the Crane and the Wassenaer this latter built in lieu of that in which Admiral Opdam was blown up fighting against his Royal Highness the Duke of Yorke The Heads or Keyes between which we entred the towne by water are handsome and Ships of great burden are received into the middle of divers streets without difficulty their Channels being deep and large the houses are well built and the town Populous they have an Exchange or place for Merchants to meet at the streets are so clean that the Women goe about in white Slippers they being paved with Bricks laid edgwise The Landthuise hath a fair front In the great Church the Organs the Tower and the Monument of De wit upon the Bridge the Statue of Erasmus as also the house where he was born and the Pleasure boats of the States are worth the seeing It being then the time of their Kermis or Faire there were playes acted and many rarities shewn as Lions Leopards c and a great noise was made about a tall Woman to be shewn of seven foot high but the Boor of Leckerkir'k not far from this town was higher Parsons and Evans porters to King Charles the first did also exceed her but I have seldom heard of any that was taller than Martin Wierwski a Polander who at the age of forty two years was presented to the Emperour Maximilian the second as a rarity of nature and was full eight foot high whose picture as big as the life I saw near to the Franciscans Convent at Vienna in Austria From Rotterdam I passed by Overschee to Delft by the Powderhouse which is a handsome one built now at some distance from the towne to prevent the like accident which befell when the former took fire and blew up part of the town The Piazza or market-place is a very fair one having the front of the town house at one end of it and the high steeple of the new Church at the other In the old Church Van-Tromps Tombe is very well carved upon the side of the Wall himself lying upon a Canon encompassed with Arms and trophies In the middle Isle of the new Church there is a noble monument the Tombe of William of Nassaw Prince of Orange together with his Wife and Son Prince Maurice his Statua is in armour with his Dog at his feet and four Obelisks are supported by ten Marble pillars In a house of this Town there were shewn me in a Wall the marks of the bullets shot at Prince William who was thereby murthered 1584. and in another Church which was broad and spacious I saw a handsome Tomb for Sr. Charles Morgans Lady and the Monument of Peter Hein the Admiral who took the Spanish Silversleet The Hague Haga Comitis the ancient place of Residence
of the Counts of Holland and now of the States general is about an hours-going distant from Delft in which passage at some distance we had a sight of two of the Prince of Orange's houses This place is well built the Prince's Court handsome The Piazza by it full of green trees many fair Houses The Course where the Coaches meet the Pall-mall the Wood the Park do much beautifie it and the way from hence to Scheveling from whence his Majesty returned into England is very remarkable it being a streight way cut through the Sand-hills and paved with Brick for three miles having on each hand four or five rows of Trees and Scheveling Steeple at the end of it The Hague and Mad rid in Spain are accounted the greatest Villages or open unwalled places in Europe and the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Masters of the greatest Village than of a place which if it were walled would come short of many Cities but this may prove a dangerous resolution for formerly upon this advantage Martin van Rossem Captain to the Duke of Gueldres sacked the Hague and it was lately in the like danger when the French Forces lay at Utrecht and Worden if they had forced a passage into that part of Holland Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the Hague at present one of the nearest Towns in Europe Well built hath divers large Streets beautified with rowes of Trees and the water passing through the middle of them and also well fortified after the modern way I took notice of that Antiquity called Hengist Castle or the Berg said to be built by Hengist the Saxon and went up to the top thereof Upon the top there is now an Arbour and a Maze or Labyrinth round it and a Well out of which they told us they took a Fish alive when the Town was almost famished during the siege which was shewed to the Enemy over the wall endeavouring to make their condition to appear better than it was and to dishearten the besiegers There are now handsome stairs from the top to the bottom and a good house built by it where they have their publick sales and entertainments But a nobler Antiquity lieth under the Sea than any above ground not far from hence near Calwyck is a square fortress called Arx Britannica built by Caligula in the declining of the Roman Empire ruined in part by the Normans and afterwards neglected over whelmed by the Sea But in some years and great retire of the Sea the ruines have been discovered and many noble Antiquities brought from it some having this inscription Ex. Ger. Inf. ex Germania inferiori The Stadthuise hath a fair front towards the street In the Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeletons Two legs of an Elephant The Skeleton of a young Whale of a Horse Deer Cow Cat Fox and many other Animals divers Skeletons of Men and Women some bodies preserved with their Muscles and one intire the flesh skin and all parts defended from corruption I saw also here what Monsieur de Bils pretended towards the preservation of Bodies but more accurately afterwards at Dr. Ruisch his house at Amsterdam The Physick-garden although but small is well filled with Plants where are also many other both natural and artificiall Curiosities to be seen and many sorts of Optick glasses Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the Officina Elzeviriana on the top In the Churches I saw the Monuments of many famous men There is a Picture in the Chamber for the Burgermasters representing the day of Judgment drawn by Lucas van Leyden so much esteemed that it is said the Emperour Rudolphus would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it The Table also upon which John of Leyden wrought whilst he was a Taylor is a Curiosity because he proved afterwards so considerable a disturber of Germany and came to be King of the Anabaptists This City endured a hard siege by the Spanish forces and they were reduced unto great extremity but they saved themselves by overflowing the Country and so forcing the Enemies to make away with great loss and afterwards coyned a memorial-Medall with this Inscription Ut Senacherib à Jerusalem sic Hispani a Leydae noctu fugerunt 1574. From Leyden I came to Haerlem a neat City pleasantly seated and having a Grove near it The great Church is esteemed the largest in Holland with a very high Lanthorn upon it Within are many Inscriptions and Monuments most of which are transcribed and set down in Gotfr Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum In the Prince's house are all the Earles of Holland Painted upon the wall and in the Garden in the Summer-house the Picture of Laurentius Costerus who is said to have first invented the art of Printing in this Town but others attribute it to Johannes Gottenberg a German On the other side there is a Picture of a Ship with Saws in memory of the manner how Damiata in Egypt was formerly taken by those of this Town who as they report accompanied Frederick Barbarossa in an expedition against the Saracens and when the men of Pelusium or Damiata had chamed up their Port by this invention of fastning strong Saws to the keels of their Ships they cut the chains in sunder and so took the Town In the rooms are very good Paintings by Hemskerk and Goltzius as his Prometheus and other Peeces but Cornelius van Haerlem most delighted me in his peeces of Herods killing the Innocent Children his feast of the Gods in which Vulcans foot is esteemed at a great rate and another Picture of a Frier and a Nun at a Collation not inseriour to the rest The old Mens house or an Hospital for sixty aged persons is large and handsome having a good Quadrangle and a Garden in it The Hospital also for the sick is very cleanly kept Here I first saw the manner of punishing Malefactours by whipping them with rods which is more severe than I imagined they lead them to a Post upon a scaffold their hands tyed and by a pully drawn up as high as they can be extended and then an Iron fastned about their wast to keep them steady in which stretched-out posture they receive sometimes fifty or sixty stripes or more according to the merit of their offence Not far from this place there is a great Water or noted Lake called Haerlem Meere about twenty miles in length which is frozen over in hard Winters and men swiftly travel over it by sliding or in sleds When Haerlem was besieged there was a Naval sight upon it The Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Vessels and the Spaniards not many fewer The Town was afterwards taken by Composition but such cruelty was used by the Spaniards that they have not yet forgot it From Haerlem I went to Amsterdam a City at present for Riches Trade Shipping fair Streets and pleasant habitations scarce yielding to
good Frontier against all Enemies on this side It is encompassed on all sides with Fenns and Marshy Grounds The Avenues to it are by narrow Causies made turning and winding to be commanded in all places by one or other of the six Sconces or Forts built at some distance without the Town for its greater Security Besides which the Hollanders having some reason to be jealous of the Inhabitants whose affections might incline them towards the neighbouring Princes of whose Religion most of them are they have built a Citadel within the Town a Briel or pair of Spectacles to look more accurately into their Affairs It is a handsom regular Fort of five Bastions each Curtain is 84 ordinary paces long the Faces of each Bastion 63 and the Flank or Neck 24. There is a handsome House of Stone for the Centry at the point of each Bastion and the middle of each Curtain every one of which cost Seven hundred Guldens Here is also a Field Canon of an extraordinary length said to be able to fling a Bullet almost as far as Bommel The Piazza in this Town is Triangular This City was made an Episcopal See 1559. The Cathedral is Dedicated to St. John In the Quire are painted the Arms of many of the Knights of the Golden Fleece And over the upper Stalls or Seats an Inscription in French which contains the History of the first Institution and Model of this Order by the most High and mighty Prince Philip the Good Duke of Burgundy Lorain and Brabant Besides divers Statua's and Pillars There are also several Monuments of the Bishops of Bosche and others This Town was taken from the King of Spain by the Forces of the Confederate Estates in the year 1628. after a long and chargeable Siege in which the little Sconce one of the Forts towards the South did excellent Service Divers of the Nuns were still alive in this Town but at Utretcht they were all dead From the Bosche we travelled through a plain Country somewhat Sandy to Breda upon the River Merck A place very considerable pleasantly seated and well-fortified It hath formerly had more Outworks than at present For they have taken away the Crown-works and left only the Half-moons and Horn-works and Conserves or Contregards about the Half-moons There is a large Ditch of Water round the Counterscarp and a small Ravelin between each Bastion joyned to the Rampart within side of the Ditch There is also a double Haye or Quickset-hedge almost quite round the Town besides Palisados The Parapet is very thick and strengthned with a row of Elms and seconded with another row at three or four yards distance round the Town the bodies of the Bastions are sunk down or hâ—llowed away and filled with a thicket of Elms. The Half Moons are the like without the Town and after all a brest-work between the Town and the Bastions and Cavaliers upon several places of the Rampart This Town belongeth unto the Prince of Orange unto whom it hath descended by the right of the house of Nassaw by the Marriage of Engelbert the seventh Earle of that house with Mary daughter and Heir of Philip the last Lord thereof about the year 1400. It was taken by the Spaniards in the beginning of the Low Country Wars and was afterwards Surprised by the Dutch by a stratagem performed by eighty men hid in a Boat covered over with Turf and so let into the Castle In the year 1625. the Spaniards took it again as by Inscriptions and Chronograms are to be seen in divers places as that over the door of the Church a MbrosI spIno Lae VIg ILantIa bre Da e XpUgnata As also this PhILIppUs hIspanlae reX gUbernante Isabe LLa CLarâ EUgenIa Infanta obsIDente spInoLa qUaternIs regIbus frUstra ConIUrantIbus breDa VIGtor potItur Afterwards it was besieged and taken by Frederick Hendrick Prince of Orange as an Inscription at the Westend of the Church sets it down Auxilio solius Dei Auspiciis confederati Belgij Ferdinando Austriaco Hispaniae Infanta cum ingenti exercitu frustra succurrente a Iulij 23 obsessamad 19 Augusti oppugnatam Fredericus Henricus Princeps araUsIUs bre DaMe eXpUgnat seXta OCtobris The Church is fair and hath many good Monuments as Renesse's Tombe a Monument for Sir Thomas Alesbury set up by the Lord Chancellor Hide an old Tombe erected 1349. for John Lord of Lech and Breda the Tombe of Grave Engleberg Van Nassaw and his family on the side of the Wall the Here Van Horne and his three Wives but the Principal Monument is that of Grave Hendrick Van Nassaw whose Armour is supported by four Warriers upon their Knees he built the Castle of Breda which is at present both strong and beautiful I observed the place where the Turfe-Boat came in and where the Prince came over into the Town The Gallery the Garden the Walks and Dials are worth the seeing the Town in handsomely built populous and generally hath a great Garrison in it Leaving Breda we soon came by Land to St. Gertruydenberg the last Town on the North of Brabant where it joyneth to the Province of Holland a small place but a good Town for fishing lying upon a Hill near the great broad Water called de Waert made by the falling of the Maes and many other Rivers into it This Town is fortified and Garrisoned The Church and Steeple have been Large and fair and the ruines of the latter are observable in regard that this Steeple was shot down by a Stratagem of the Prince of Orange while the Governour and chief of the Town were upon it to observe a false alarm in the Prince's Camp and so lost themselves and the Town We Passed from hence over a large Water which hath overflow'd a great part of the Country upon one side of it no less than seventy two Parishes being drowned at once the Village of Ramsdun onely escaping and so by an old Tower called the house of Murney to the Maiden Town of Dort or Dordrecht Dordracum so called by some from Duri or Dureti forum at present Dort being seated in the Waves of those great Lakes made by the Maes and Waal is not unaptly from its situation compared to a Swans nest it is reckoned the first and chief Town of South Holland in respect of its antiquity as having served to secure Odocer in his retreat almost eight hundred years since and also in respect of its Priviledges in having the Mint here and being the Staple for Rhenish wine and English Cloath In this Town are many fair houses and pleasant Gardens The great Church is large the Steeple 312 steps high the top thereof being made of four large Dyalls There is also an Exchange or Place for Merchants to meet The English have two Churches and the French one The Key or Head to the water side is handsome and the Country about very pleasant we saw the Chamber wherein the Synod of Dort was assembled 1611. a large fair
room and took a collation in the same house in a high turret overlooking the Town and Country Our seats Moving round about the Table continually so as the diversity of the prospect made it more delightful The great Vessels round-bellied which trade between Coln and this City seemed strange as also the long Luyck or Liege-boats and the number of People that continually live in them At my going away from hence I embarked in a Vessel bound for the Island of Walcheren sayling by most of the Islands of Zealand and in sight of divers good Towns as Willemstadt Zirickze Tergoes observing in some places where the Sea had overflow'd the Land and in others where the Industry of the Inhabitants still keep it out by keeping up their banks and thatching the Shoars of the Sea We Landed at Ter-Vere where there is a good Haven and Harbour for Ships the Walls were built in the year 1357 towards the Sea are round towers The Piazza is long The Scotch have had a Factory here for above two hundred years and the Marquiss of this Place did formerly make one of the three States by which Zealand was Governed The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middleburg representing the Ecclesiastical jurisdiction and the Towns of Middleburg Zirickzee Ter-Veer Flussing Tolen Martins-dike Romerswal and Tergoes supplying the Third over against this place where a Town had formerly sunk into the Sea the Steeple only remaineth to be seen From hence to Middleburg the way is Paved with Brick as it is also from Town to Town in most places of Holland Middleburg is the chief Town in the Island Walachria seated almost in the middle of it being well built large rich and Populous it is the fourth Port for the East-India trade hath a large broad Water within the Town and a streight cut through the Land to carry Vessels out to Sea the whole is very well Fortified the Officers here are chosen by Strangers or Foreigners the Churches are many and remarkable the new Church is of an eight-square figure with a Cupola the Tower of the old great Church very high the Stadthuise with the old statuas about it the round Piazza and many private buildings are Considerable and the whole Country about it is fruitful either divided into Gardens and Orchards or Planted with Madder Pompions or Grain and Fruits The Zealanders are generally addicted to the interest of the Prince of Orange and great Lovers of his Person I found them not a little delighted that the Prince had been with them some days before and was made Premier Noble or chief of the States of Zealand which was chiefly brought about as I was informed by Pensioner Hubert Le Sage Duvelaer and Vriebergen formerly no great friends to the Prince especially Vriebergen who was the most earnest of any to bring him in in despite to the Hollanders for General Worts his sake who being set over the Zealand forces by those of Amsterdam lately affronted Vriebergens Son who was a Colonel at the head of his Regiment I was entertained at Middleburg very courteously by Mr. Hill the Minister who also sent his Kinsman with me to Flussing Flissinga or Vlussing hath Stone-Wals towards the Sea and Mudworks towards the Land a very good Port and a strong Town the waves of the Sea washing its walls it was one of the first Towns which the Low Country men took from the Spaniards in the year 1572 and was made Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Rammakins and the Briel 1585. The renowned Sr. Philip Sidney being the first Governour of it and surrendred by King James to the United states 1616. The Sea shoar here abouts is not only faced with rushes flaggs and reeds staked down as high as the Tide usually ariseth but it is also strongly bound over with Osiers and hurdles and great Posts driven in to break the force of the Water and secure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens mouth The Town-house is handsomely built standing in the Piazza having three rowes of Pillars in the Front one above another the Lower Dorick the second Ionick and the highest Corinthian and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Discover ships at Sea This is the third Port for the East India trade Amsterdam and Rotterdam being the first and second here lay many great ships in the middle of the Town and considerable men of War as the St. Patrick and the Admiral of Zealand we saw them also building of divers ships and when the Prince was here they Lanched one to divertise him to which he gave the name of William Frederick they also presented him with a Golden Bottle that being the Arms of the Town the Prince Landed at Armuyden and went from thence to Tergoes and thence to Breda they reported his entertainment in Walcheren amounted to fifty thousand Guldens The Women in this Island wear most of them red Cloth and straw-Hats if a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is layd at the Door if a Boy a little one if a Woman the straw lies on the left side of the Door when any Woman is brought to bed they fasten a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the Door and make it up into a little baby or puppet finely pleated and in such manner as to distinguish of what sex the young Child is Returning to Middleburg by Land I observed there was a row of Trees round the Town between the moat and rampart where ordinarily there is only a breast-worke or a hedge and embarked at Middleburg again and passed down the River by the fort Rammakins and so for the Schelde Sayling up that noble River till we had passed the Fort Frederick Henrick and came to Lillo where we stayd till the Vessell was searched Over against Lillo lyeth another Fortification called Lifgens hock the Fort de la croix is the last that belongeth to the Hollanders and lieth on the North side of the River the Banks are cut nigh to it and the Country drowned for its greater security The Spanish Forts hereabouts to defend the Frontiers are the Philip the Pearl and the Maria. The River Scaldis or Scheld mentioned by Caesar is a gallant River affording plenty of fish and convenience for Navigation and passage unto several noted places It ariseth in the Country of Vermandois passing to Cambray Valencienne so to Tournay or Dornick Oudenard Gaunt Rupelmond and Antwerp and pursuing its course is afterwards divided into two streams whereof the Southern is called the Hont the other runs by Bergen ap Zome and so into the Sea between the Isles of Zealand The next day morning we went on our Voyage still up the Scaldis or Schelde and arrived at Antwerp Where I had the good fortune to see Mr. Hartop one very well known in all those parts and of high esteem for his personal strength and valour A Gentleman also so courteous that he makes it his business to oblige strangers he shew'd me many
and Design were continued it would be very handsome Before the Court stand five brass Statues The Park is pleasant with Trees set in order and adorned with Grotto's Fountains and Water-works which come very near the Italian one piece somewhat imitating Frascati in which all Musical Instruments are imitated and a perpetual motion attempted and on the Front of the Buildings stand the Caesars head But the Eccho is most remarkable which may perfectly be distinguished to ten or twelve Replies The greatest Church is that of St. Gudula in which is her Statua the Devil striving to blow out the Light of her Lanthorn Two Chappels therein are remarkable the one built by Leopoldus very fair on the outside the other towards the North hath been visited by five Kings in which is the Host which bled being stabbed by the Jews In the Dominican Church is the Monument of the Duke of Cleve and his Dutchess in Gorinthian brass But for a New Church that of the Begennes or Pious Maids is very considerable there being Eight hundred of them in this City who have a particular place allotted to them where they have built this milk white Church The Plague was much in this place at that time three hundred Houses being shut up and a Garland placed on the doors in the middle of which †was written IHS I saw the English Nunnery and other considerable Buildings And after I had refreshed my self at the Fish-Tavern which is worth the seeing especially for two Rooms in it furnished from top to bottom with very good Pictures I returned to Antwerp Octob. 4. I travelled through an open Country and lodged at Molin bruslè The Spanish Souldiers met us upon the Road this day some of them well mounted and armed and begged of us and were well satisfied with a small Benevolence The next day we entred the Country of Liege and passed great Heaths and on the Sixth in the morning arrived at Maestreicht Trajectum ad Mosam or Maestreicht is a strong Town seated upon the Maes four Leagues below Liege The Out-works are very considerable the Wall is old Towards the South-east lyeth a Hill which ariseth gently and overlooks part of the Town Under this Hill is one of the noblest Quarries of Stone in the World To secure the Town from the disadvantage it might receive from this Hill there was formerly a Fort built upon it but it hath been long since slighted and they have made out an Horn-work within Musket-shot of it and the Bastion answering to it is made very high to cover the Town On the other side of the River standeth Wicke very well fortified also and rather stronger than Maestreicht into which they might retire if the Town should be taken by Storm it being united to Maestreicht by a handsome Bridge over the Maes consisting of Nine Arches All about Wicke the Country is flat there are many Inhabitants in it and a handsome Glass house The private Houses of Maestreicht are generally covered with a black Slat or Ardoise otherwise not very beautiful The Town house is fair seated in one of the Piazza's built of white Stone it hath Nine large Windowes in a row on each side and within is very well painted by Theodorus van der Schuer who was Painter to the Queen of Sweden In another Piazza is a Fountain rows of Trees and the great Church This Town was besieged and taken from the King of Spain by the Confederate States in the year 1632. October the Seventh I dined at Gallop a small place and came that night to Aken Aix la Chapelle or Aquisgrane an ancient noble City the Inhabitants Courteous and much frequented by reason of its hot Baths of which I shall speak more particularly in my Journey from Colen to London Leaving Aken I travelled towards Juliers or Gulick but it being late before we arrived the Gates were shut up so as we went only under the Walls leaving it on our right hand Near unto Gulick runneth a shallow swift River called the Roer At the Mouth of it where it falleth into the Maes is seated a considerable Town called Roermonde through which I passed in the year 1673. when Sir Lionel Jenkins and Sir Joseph Williamson were sent Plenipotentiaries to Cologne in our Journey from Antwerp to that City We then passed the Country of Brabant by the way of Thornhaut Weert Roermonde and the next Night passing by Erkelens lodged at Castro or Caster in Gulickland where there are still the remains of an old Castle formerly built for the Defence of that part of the Country Roermonde is seated upon a rising Hill near the River Roer hath a Colledge of Jesuits in it a handsome Piazza and an old Abby with divers Monuments very ancient founded by Gerard Earl of Guelderland From this Town their Excellencies were saluted with the Guns from their Walls charged with Bullets The Spaniards in most places striving to express the highest of their respects From Gulick I travelled to Cologne where I arrived October the 10th 1668. A JOURNEY FROM COLEN TO VIENNA COlen Coln or Colonia Agrippina was anciently the Capital City of the Ubii a people who were at first possessed of the Countries now called Berg and March but being over run by the Germans next to them Agrippa Lieutenant of Gallia received them into protection and placed them upon this side of the Roman shoar of the Rhine where they built this place and called it Oppidum Ubiorum and the Romans seating themselves here for the defence of the Country in Honour of Agrippina daughter to Germanicus and wife to Claudius whose Birth-place it was gave it afterwards the Name of Colonia Agrippina It is at present one of the largest if not the greatest of any City in Germany secured towards the Land by a high Wall and two deep Trenches and towards the Water by a Wall of Stone The Rhine renders it delightful upon one side and divers rows of Trees enclose the Town towards the Land They have some Out-works as Half-moons and Ravelins but their best security is in the great number of men which they are able to raise within themselves Many of the Streets are broad and paved with broad stones It received the Christian Faith very early and Maternus was their Bishop above 1350 years since who subscribed amongst others to the Council of Arles They have a great number of Churches and well endowed which take up a great part of the Town The Prebends and Canons Houses having in many places Vineyards and large Gardens adjoyning Towards the North end of the Town the Church of St. Kunibald is considerable The Convent of the Dominicans is fair and newly built with a Garden in the Court and all the Chambers uniform The Jesuites Church is well built and stored with rich Copes Altar-pieces and other Ornaments In the Church of St. Gereon a Saint of great name here martyred about Colen in the time of Maximianus are about a thousand Saints heads
or Bingium was an old Roman Fortress upon the Rhine where the River Navus or Naw entreth into it over which latter there is a handsome Stone-bridge In this Town were many of the Duke of Lorrain's Army sick and wounded who three weeks before had maintained a fight against the Forces of the Elector Palatine near this place From Bing we continued our Journey to Mentz at Rudesheim in Rhinegaw a place noted for good Wine they shewed us a Boy whose hair was thick and woolly like to the African-Moors but of a fine white colour which being somewhat an odd sight I took away some of his hair with me Mentz Moguntia Moguntiacum and by the French Mayence is seated over against the Confluence of the River Main with the Rhine or rather a little below it in a fertile Country abounding in all Provisions and good Wine it lieth at length and is most extended towards the River and that part excelleth the other towards the Land which is not so populous or well-built It is a strong place and well guarded it hath many Churches and Monasteries and some fair Buildings especially those of publick concern as the Palace of the Elector and others But the narrowness of the Streets and many old Houses take away much from the beauty of the City It is an University begun about the year 1486. or as others will have it 1461. This place also challengeth the Invention of Printing or at least the first promotion or perfection thereof And the Territory about it is famous for the destruction of the Roman Legions under Varus by the Germans Gustaphus Adolphus King of Sweden was wonderfully pleased upon the taking of this City 1631. entring into it in State upon the 14th of December it being his Birth-day which began the 38th year of his life and kept his Court and Christmas here where at one time there were with him six chief Princes of the Empire twelve Ambassadours of Kings States Electors and Princes besides Dukes and Lords and the Martial men of his own Army At the taking of the Town they found great store of Ordnance and Powder and the City redeemed it self from Pillage by giving the King a Ransome of Eighty thousand Dollars and the Clergy and Jews gave Two and twenty thousand more of which the Jews paid Eighteen thousand Archbishop Wambold saving himself upon the Rhine and retiring to Colen The King caused also two great Bridges to be made one over the Main founded upon fifteen great flat bottom'd Boats the rest being built upon great Piles of Wood Another over the Rhine supported by sixty one great flat Boats each lying the distance of an Arch from one another and many Families of people living sometimes in the Boats under the Bridge The Bridge over the Main is taken away but that over the Rhine is still continued Upon which I saw the present Elector passing in his Coach a Person of great Gravity of a middle Stature having long grey Hair and was very Princely attended his Name Joannes Philippus of the Noble Family of Schoenburg Elector and Archbishop of Mentz Bishop of Wurtzburg and Bishop of Worms Arch-Chancellour of the Empire for all Germany the first of the Electoral Colledge in all publick Conventions he sits at the right hand of the Emperour and is a Successour of the famous Boniface an English man Bishop of Mentz who so much promoted the Christian Religion in these parts But though his Dignity and Place excelleth the two other Ecclesiastical Electors of Colen and Triers yet his Territories come short and they lye not together but scatteringly with those of the Palatinate Spier Franckfort and divers places in Franconia But of late he hath much encreased his Power by seizing the great City of Erfurdt in Turingia which he hath since much beautified and strengthned by a Citadel built upon St. Peters hill From Mentz I passed by water up the River Main to Franckfort a free City of the Empire called Trajectum Franconum a Passage or Ford of the Franks as serving them for a Retreat when they entred or returned from Gaul at present Franckford upon the Main to difference it from Franckford upon the River Oder which is an University It is a large Town divided into two parts by the River the lesser called Saxonhausen or Saxon-houses united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the Main of twelve or thirteen Arches It is a place of good Trade and well seated for it as having the advantage of the River Main which passeth by Bamberg Schweinfurt Wurtzburg Guemund or Gaudia mundi and also the Tauber and other Rivers running into it affordeth conveniency for Commerce with the remoter parts of Franconia and the Main running into the Rhine makes a large communication both up and down that Stream But this place is most remarkable for the Election of the Emperour which by the Laws of the Golden Bull should be in this City as also for two great Marts or Fairs kept in March and September at which times there is an extraordinary concourse of people from remote parts in order to buying and selling of several Commodities especially for Books as well printed here as in other parts whereof they afford two Catalogues every year and have no small dealings that way by the Factors of the Germans Hollanders Italians French and English although at other times their trading in Books seems not great for when I was there out of the time of the Mart the Stationers Shops being shut up made but a dull show Here are also a great number of good Horses bought and sold and on the North-side of the City there is a spacious place for a Horse-Fair The City is strong and well fortified and most part of the Town are Lutherans In the German wars the King of Sweden having taken Hanaw sent a Messenger to Franckfort to know whether the City would peaceably and speedily set open their Gates unto him and accept fairly of a Garrison or stand to the hazard of a Siege And although they were unwilling to yield yet for fear of the worst they consented That the King should have free passage for his Army through the City and that for the better assurance of it six hundred of his men should be received for a Garrison into Saxonhausen and also that the Magistrates and People should take an Oath unto his Majesty So that upon the 17th of November 1631. the King's Army passed through Saxonhausen over the Bridge quite through the Town Colonel Vitzthumb was left Governour in Saxonhausen and the King himself rode bare-headed through the Streets and by his obliging behaviour did generally win the affections of the beholders and three days after returned thither again with the Landtgrave of Hessen-Cassell and the Landtgrave of Hessen-Darmstadt where they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw or Veteravia and were feasted in the same room where the Emperours at their Coronation use to be entertained In Saxonhausen there is
a House anciently belonging unto the Knights of the Teutonick Order which hath the priviledge of a Sanctuary for Man-slayers and Bankrupts but it is a security but for fourteen days Upon this side there is the largest portion of Land belonging to Franckfort on the other side very little This being a trading place it is no wonder that there are so many Jews in it for a distinction they wear great Ruffs their Sons Bonnets and their Wives a peculiar dress of their Head The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew where many of the Emperours have been crowned is large hath a high Steeple and is built of a red stone There are divers handsome Fountains in the Town and good Houses in one of the best of which liveth Monsieur Pierre Neufville a great Merchant and a civil worthy person well known in most places of Commerce who obliged me with Letters to Venice and other places From Franckfort I continued my Journey through the Bergstraes passing by Darmstadt which belongs to one of the Brothers of the House of Hessen commonly known by the name of the Landtgrave of Hessen Darmstadt and afterwards through a fruitful plain Country in the sight of Hills and sometimes near them the whole Country planted with Wallnut-trees Vines Corn and in some places with Tobacco till I arrived at Heidelberg In coming into this Town we passed over the River Neccar Nicer or Necarus upon a Bridge covered over from one end to another with a large Roof of Wood in the same manner is the long Bridge covered at the entrance of the City of Alessandria della paglia in Italy The River Neccar ariseth near the Sylva Martiana now Swartzwald or Black Forest and passing through the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg runneth into the Rhine at Manheim This though none of the greatest yet is a considerable River of Germany and hath divers good Towns upon it and near it as Sultz Tubingen Wirtingen Essingen Stutgard Canstat Lauffen Hallbrun Heidelberg There being wars at that time when I was in this Country between the Elector Palatine and the Duke of Lorain The Elector resided for the most part at Frankendale to be near his Forces Heidelberg is seated on the South-side of the River Neccar between it and a ridge of high Hills so as it cannot well admit of a modern Fortification or hope to be extraordinary strong as being over-looked by the adjacent Mountains It lieth most at length from East to West It hath been an University since the year 1346. at which time it was begun by Rupertus Count Palatine and at present is much frequented In the great Church was kept the famous Library which after that the Spaniards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome and added to the Vatican where I saw it in the year 1664. being placed upon one side of a very long Gallery belonging to the Vatican Library and the Duke of Urbin's Library placed on the otherside over-against it both which made a notable addition to the Papal Library In this Church and the Church also of St. Peter are divers Monuments of Princes of the Palatine Family and of Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church here and the present Elector is of the Order of the Holy Ghost and his Son a Mareschal of France and good French and High-dutch are both generally spoken here The Lutherans have also a Church in this Town by the favour of the present Elector although he himself be a Calvinist and to express his generous kindness the higher in this point the first Stone was laid by himself and his Son and it is called the Church of Providence according to the Elector's Motto Dominus Providebit Upon the Town-house is a Clock with divers Motions and when the Clock strikes the figure of an Old man pulls off his hat a Cock crows and shakes his wings Souldiers fight with one another and the like The Prince's Stables for above a hundred Horses are seated upon the River very conveniently but were fairer formerly above half thereof having been ruined by the Imperialists as also divers of the Statues on the outside of the Castle which is seated high above the Town The present Elector is Carolus Ludovicus Son to the King of Bohemia Frederick the Fifth he was born in the year 1617. and passed his Youth an Exile from his Fathers Kingdom and Electorate and at the pacification at Prague 1635. he was excluded from any restitution to be made to him But at length in the Treaty of Munster 1648. he was restored to the lower Palatinate and 1652. returned to the possession of his Fortunes a highly accomplished Prince much honoured and beloved by his Subjects In the year 1650. he married Charlotta Daughter to William the Fifth Landgrave and to the famous Amelia Elizabeth Landgravess of Hassia by whom he had the Chur Prince or Electoral Prince Charles and a Daughter the Princess Charlotta Elizabetha but upon some discontent the Princess Electress since returned to her own Friends and Country This Elector is also Knight of the most Noble Order of the Garter Great Treasurer of the Empire and together with the Elector of Saxony Vicar of the Empire In his Palace or Castle at Heidelberg are divers things remarkable a very great Tower to be equalled by very few within which is a Theatre for Comedies This was formerly called Trutzkaisar or the Tower that bad Defiance or threatned the Emperor but since the Restauration of the Elector there are some Works drawn about it in the figure of a Star and the old disobliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden to be continued and it is at present called the Sternschanz or the Star-fort By it is a handsome Garden in the Ditch whereof there was then kept a great Bear and a very large Wolf The Grotto's and Water-works are very handsome they were also making divers others having the advantage of the side of the Hill to bring down the water and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock Amongst other Fountains that of the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear is taken notice of The Cellars are very large and cool filled with Vessels of no ordinary size yet inconsiderable if compared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joyning to the Cellars it was built by this present Elector's Order 1664. and goeth far beyond any made before It contains 204 Faiders and odd measure or about two hundred Tuns instead of Hoops it is built with large knee Timber like the ribs of a Ship which are painted and carved and have divers Inscriptions upon them and supported by carved Pedistals Upon one side of it is a handsome Staircase to ascend to the top of the Vessel upon the top of which is a Gallery set round with Ballisters three and forty steps high from the ground About an English mile from Heidelberg between the Hills is a solitary place where three large Streams or Springs gush out of the
how a Theatre for Comedies is now built in that place It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms which are so well filled that many Books are fain to lye upon the Floor and the Shelves stand so close that there is but just room to pass between them The Manuscripts stand distinct from the printed Books according to their Languages being divided into six Classes Theological Juridical Medical Philosophical Historical Philological There can scarce be a more admirable Collection than the Manuscripts in part of the first Chamber of Hebrew Syriack Arabick Turkish Armenian Aethiopick and Chinese Books It was begun at least the Books began to be placed in this receptacle by Maximilian the First but hath been much encreased by succeeding Emperours most of them since Rodolphus the First being much addicted unto Learning there having been large accessions from many noble Libraries and most upon the cost of the Emperours The choicest Books in the famous Library of Buda of King Matthias Corvinus Son unto Huniades are now in it The notable Library of Wolfgangus Lazius who was Library-Keeper was brought hither and Three thousand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in this Repository Augerius Busbequius sometime Library-Keeper hereof added much unto it and in his two Turkish Embassies procured great number of noble Greek Manuscripts at Constantinople which are inscribed with his own hand Aug. de Busbeck emit Constantinopoli A great many were added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cuspinianus Library Keeper and Counsellor unto the Emperour The notable Libraries and Mathematical Instruments of Tycho Brahe Kepler and Gassendus were purchased for it But the largest accession was made by the noble Library of Count Fugger which consisting of sixteen thousand Volumes was purchased by Ferdinand the Third Many were brought some few years past from the Ambrasian Library by Inspruck by the Learned Petrus Lambecius Library Keeper Historiographer and Counsellor unto the present Emperour who hath also an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the Imperial He then reckoned the Volumes in this great Library to amount at least to Fourscore thousand and by this time that number may be increased for he addeth some yearly And the number might almost be endless if they would make use of their priviledge for the Emperour hath a right to have two Books of all that are printed in Germany They have also a great advantage at Vienna to acquire good Manuscripts from the Turkish Dominions for the Emperour is obliged to have a Resident with the Grand Signor wheresoever he moveth or ordereth him to be even at the last sight of St. Godart the Emperour 's Resident was in the Turkish Camp And when I was at Larissa in Thessaly the Resident Signor di Casa Nova was inquisitive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Monasteries and other places And this Emperour like his Father will spare no cost toward such Acquiries By the especial favour of my noble Friend Lambecius I went many times into this Library and he was so courteous as to let me have what Books I desired unto my private Lodging He would shew me divers Books upon what Subject I required and offered me a sight of what Books he thought rare and estimable and amongst others I could not but take notice of these following A Letter of the present Emperour of China in the Chinese and Tartarian Languages unto the present Emperour of Germany weaved in a very fine Roll. Another old Roll written in unknown Letters yet a little resembling the Greek A Book in the Runick Language A very fair Manuscript of Ptolomy with the Mapps drawn in Colours The oldest Manuscript and true Exemplar of Livie in large Letters without distinction of Words or Sentences very uneasie to be read a thousand years old and brought not many years since from the Library near Inspruck An old fair Greek Manuscript of Dioscorides written eleven hundred years since in very large Letters without distance of Words or Accents wherein all the Plants are lively painted also the Pictures of Dioscorides Galen Pamphilus Cratevas and other ancient Physicians bought of a Jew at Constantinople for an hundred Ducats by Busbequius A Book of Geometrical Propositions demonstrated in the China Language Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pictures A noble old Greek Manuscript in great uncial Letters without stops points or distance of words An ancient Greek Manuscript of the Book of Genesis in large Letters without distance or accents thirteen hundred years ago wherein are Forty eight Pictures or Draughts in Miniature or Water colours much conducing to the knowledge of ancient Habits the manner of Feasting postures at Meals waiting of Servants and Musical Instruments Wherein I could not but take notice of the Golden Spot upon Josephs breast and the manner of the Execution of Pharaoh's Baker his Head being put through a forked piece of wood and his Hands tyed behind him A fair Book of Albert Durer wherein are many fine Paintings in Miniature or Limning as also a Sphere and within it a Globe carved and painted by him A fair Book of Michael Angelo wherein besides many rare things in Architecture are all the paintings and designs of the Belvedere in little A fair Alcoran in Arabick interlined with the Turkish to explain it The Bible in the Coptick and Persian Languages Luther's own Bible marked with his own Hand and interlined by him with Notes in many places A fair Greek Manuscript of the New Testament fifteen hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Purple There was also a Magical Glass obtained by the Emperour Rodolphus whereby to see Apparitions and converse with Spirits which some conceive to be the same or of the like nature with that used by Kelly Of ancient Greek Roman and Gothick Medals and Coyns in Gold Silver and Copper to the number of sixteen thousand Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to have two of the Emperour Marcus Otho I let fall some Drops into this Ocean adding some Coyns Intaglia's and Inscriptions not to be found in that large work of Gruterus which having found in the Emperours furthest Dominions and Turkish parts long out of his possession where there had been no great enquiry after them were shewed unto his Imperial Majesty by Petrus Lambecius and so well accepted by him that he said I might have the use of what Books I desired and at my return into England he gave me a formal Pass in Latin for my safe Travel and that my Trunks or Goods might not be searched which takes off a great deal of trouble in passing so many Principalities and free Cities Commanding all in his own Dominions and Requesting all Princes in Germany to favour me and permit me to pass freely without molestation It was thus Subscribed Leopoldus Leopoldus Gulielmus Comes in Kinigseggs Ad mandatum Sacr. Caes Majestatis proprium Beüer The Rarities of the great Duke of Tuscany The Treasure of Loretto
Furnace where the Litharge is driven off agreeth better with the Figure of it in Agricola than those of Hungary some of the Litharge is green Their Buck-work and their Engines which pound the Ore the Coal and Clay are also very neat Much of their Ore is washed especially the poorest and that which is mixed with stones quarts or sparrs This is peculiar in their working that they burn the pounded and washed Ore in the Roasthearth before they melt it in the Smeltzoven or melting Furnace At these Mines of Hungary where I was they used not the Virgula divina or forked Hazel to find out Silver Ore or hidden Treasure in the Earth and I should little depend thereon but here they have an esteem of it And I observed the use thereof and the manner how they did it But I shall omit the Description of it because it is set down in divers Books and it cannot be so well described as shown to the Eye I saw also another Mine called Auff der Halsbrucker about eighty of our Fathoms deep and much worked They have divers sorts of Ore but they contain either Silver and Copper Silver and Lead or all three but they work them only for Silver They have divers damps in these Mines where it is deep The Mines are cold where the outward Air comes in but where not warm The greatest trouble they have is by dust which spoileth their Lungs and Stomachs and frets their Skins But they are not so much troubled with water and have very good Engins to draw the water out The Sulphur or Brimstone Ore which is found here is also rich it is hard and stony as other Ores are that which hath red spots is accounted the best They use a peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimstone from the Ore some whereof yieldeth three pounds of Sulphur out of an hundred weight of Ore which as it melteth runneth out of the Furnace into water or the Exhalations from the Ore near or in the Fire are condensed into Brimstone by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it this is once again melted and purified Some of the Brimstone Ore containeth Silver some Copper and some both in a small proportion Two Miners in their habits Virgula Divina The figure of an Iron retort such as are vsed at the quicksilver worke at Idria The other use and which is more considerable is for the making of Vitriol or Copperose in this manner They take the Ore out of which the Brimstone hath been already melted and burn it once again or let it still burn in the open Air then putting it into a large Fatt they pour water upon it so as to imbibe and drink in the Vitriol this Water is afterwards boyled to a sufficient height and let out into the Coolers where sticks are set in it as in the making of Sugar Candy The purest Chrystallized Vitriol sticks unto the wood the rest to the sides and bottom Thus the Sulphur Ore after the Sulphur is taken out of it still worketh upon the Silver Ore and openeth the Body of it in the Fire but when this Ore is also deprived of its Vitriol it worketh no more upon Metals Friberg is a round well-walled City hath handsome Streets a Piazza the Elector's Castle and five Gates the Church of St. Peter is fair where many of the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buried and have fair Monuments especially Duke Mauritius Elector of Saxony whose Monument in black Marble is raised three piles high adorned with many fair Statua's in Alabaster and white Marble and esteemed one of the noblest if not the best in Germany And when this Town was surrendred unto Holck and Gallas Octob. 5. 1632. the Duke of Saxony paid 80000 Dollars to save the Monuments of his Predecessours from being ransacked and defaced it being the fashion of divers German Princes to be buried in their Robes with their Ensigns of Honour Rings Jewels and the like which would have been booty and probably have run the same fortune as the Cloister of Haibron within twelve English miles of Nurenberg where some of the Marquisses of Onspach who are of the Electoral House of Brandenburg lye entombed where Tillie's Souldiers brake open the Vault and robbed the dead Corpses of the Marquisses George Frederick and Joachim Ernest of the Jewels Rings and other rich Ornaments with which they were entombed There are some Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City by which there are passages into the Mines This place was formerly streightly besieged by the Emperour Adolphus for the space of a year and a month and at last betrayed by a Fugitive who let in a party of the Emperours into the Town by a Subterraneous Passage near St. Donats Gate and upon the continual Batteries made at the Town and concussion of the Earth about it the Earth sunk down in many places and swallowed great numbers of the Emperours Army These Mines afford great benefit unto the City and also unto the Elector They are said to have been found out in the year 1180. But there have been other Silver Mines discovered since as at Schneeberg at Anneberg and at Joachims Dale 1526. Having passed some time at Friberg I ordered my Journey for Leipsick and travelling by Waltheim and Coldick came unto it Leipsick is seated upon the River Elster which arising in Vortland or Terra Advocatorum passeth by it and afterwards runneth into the River Sala It is a rich and great trading City hath three Marts in the year and great resort unto it from many parts It is well-built and divers Houses are seven stories high The Castle is strictly guarded and hath in it a strong white Town But the Works about the Town are not very considerable although they might be made strong The Church of St. Nicholas is well adorned and hath the name to be the fairest within side of any Lutheran Church in Germany they have also a remarkable Burial-place or Godtsaker walled about and cloystered near the Wall wherein the better sort are buried as the rest in the middle and open part Which put me in mind of that noble Burial-place which I saw at Pisa in Tuscany called Il campo Santo because the Earth which the Emperour Frederick Barbarossa brought from the Holy Land for the Ballast of his Ships was laid upon that Ground Leipsick is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it in the last Swedish wars one between Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden and Count Tilly General of the Imperialists 1631. wherein the Swedes obtained a great Victory Tilly was wounded fled and lived not long after Another some years after in the same place wherein Leonard Torstenson the Swede overcame Archduke Leopoldus Gulielmus and Octavio Piccolomini Generals of the Imperial Army And about a mile and a half from hence at Lutzen another great Battel was fought 1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Army commanded by Albert Wallensteyn Duke of Friedland
wherein the Swedes obtained the Victory but the King of Sweden was slain and on the Imperial side that famous Commander Godfrey Count of Pappenheim There is also an University at Leipsick first occasioned by the German Scholars of Prague who in the troubles of the Hussites came hither to the number of Two thousand in one day and is still one of the Three Universities in the Elector's Dominions the other being Jena by the River Sala and Wittenberg upon the Elbe In this University they are much addicted to the study of the Law but there are also Learned men in other Faculties The Magistrates of Leipsick are also considerable Der herr von Adlershelme was the Burgomaster a courteous Learned Person and great Virtuoso who had collected and observed many things He hath had five fair Daughters brought up in all commendable ways of working Drawing Painting Inlaying with Flowers with Mother of Pearl Stones and other pretty Works And they speak divers Languages which they learned at a School in Holland So that his House hath a great deal of excellent Furniture of his Childrens work and is one of the most considerable Curiosities to be seen in Leipsick His Summer-house is handsome painted both within and without And in the Water about are Muscovy Ducks Indian Geese and divers rare Fowls In his Chamber of Rarities there are many things considerable But I have seen divers of them in other places and lately set down some Varieties of the Elector of Saxony I shall mention but a few An Elephants Head with the dentes molares in it An Animal like an Armadillo but the Scales are much larger and the Tail broader Very large flying Fishes A Sea-horse Bread of Mount Libanus A Cedar-branch with the Fruit upon it Large Granates as they grow in the Mine A Sirens hand A Chameleon made out of a Fish A piece of Iron which seemeth to be the head of a Spear found in the Tooth of an Elephant the Tooth being grown about it The Isle of Jerscy drawn by our King A piece of Wood with the Blood of King Charles the First upon it A Greenland Lance with a large Bell at the end of it Much Japan painting wherein their manner of hunting and working may be observed A Picture of our Saviour the Hatches of which are writing or written and contain the story of his Passion Bevers taken in the River Elbe A Picture of the murther of the Innocents done by Albert Durer Pictures of divers strange Fowls A Greenland Boat The Skins of white Bears Tigres Hilves and other Beasts And I must not omit the Garter of an English Bride with the story of it of the Fashion in England for the Bridemen to take it off and wear it in their Hat which seemed so strange to the Germans that I was obliged to confirm it to them by assuring them that I had divers times wore such a Garter my self Leaving this busie and trading City of Leipsick I directed my Journey unto Magdeburg and travelled through a plain Country between the River Sala and the Elbe by Landsberg nigh to Petersdorff where there is a small Hill which overlooks all the Country so to Kihten the Residence of the Prince of Anhalt then to Caln and over the River Sala before it runneth into the Elbe which arising at Mount Fichtelberg now hastneth towards it Fichtelberg is a considerable Mountain near which are divers Mines Bathes and Mineral-waters of which Gaspar Bruschius hath written a Description And from it arise four Rivers running to the four quarters of the World The Maine or Moenus towards the West the Nab or Nabus towards the South the Aeger towards the East and the forementioned Sala towards the North. These four afterwards fall into the three greatest Rivers of Germany the Danube the Rhine and the Elbe Then to Sals or Saltz a placed noted for Salt-springs and that night to Magdeburg Parthenopolis or Magdeburg is seated by the River Elbe formerly the Metropolitan City of Germany now under the Marquiss of Brandenburg of very great Circuit but little more than half built again since it was sacked and burnt by Tilly and Thirty six thousand persons put to the Sword and destroyed I could not but observe the ruinous and destructive effects of the late wars in many parts of Germany but not in any so great and flourishing a place as this And a man might think that after this great destruction of Houses and People this place should not be able to stand a Siege yet a few years after it was besieged by General Hatzfield unto whom Bannier the Swede not being able to relieve it it was yielded The Cathedral Church is very fair and built like an English one by the Emperour Otho the First and his Empress Editha an English woman Daughter unto King Edmund whose Effigies in Stone I saw in the Church with nineteen Tuns of Gold by her which she gave thereto And to say the truth English mony hath done great things in Germany for hereby or with a good part thereof this Church was built or endowed Leopoldus Duke of Austria built the old Walls of Vienna with the ransome of King Richard the First whom he detained in his return through Austria from the Holy Land King Edward the First sent a great Sum of Mony unto the Emperour Adolphus for the raising of Souldiers in Germany which the Emperour employed in purchasing a great part of Misnia for himself The Lutheran Churches are handsome and their Pulpits are extraordinary noble and richly set off as I observed through all Saxony Norimberg And where they are Masters of the Places and have not their Churches only by permission here they shewed me in the Cathedral Church of St. Maurice the Statua's of the five wise Virgins smiling and of the five foolish Virgins lamenting which are very well expressed They shewed me also two odd Reliques which they still kept as Rarities that is the Bason wherein Pilate washed his hands when he declared himself free from the blood of our Saviour and the Ladder whereon the Cock stood when he crowed after St. Peter's denying of Christ In the Ruines of the Cloister of the Augustines there is still to be seen Luther's Chamber his Bedstead and Table and upon the Door are these German Verses Dis war Lutheri Kammerlin Waner in 's Closter kam herin Gedachnis halb wird noch it zund Herin gesehen sein Bettespund i. e. Luther did lodge within this little Room When first he did into the Cloister come In memory whereof we still do keep The Bedstead upon which he us'd to sleep I lodged at Magdeburg in an old man's House who would tell me many stories of the burning of the Town the cruelties and bloody usage of the people who were destroyed without exception The Nuns many of them being drowned in the River Elbe After which some observed that Count Tilly never prospered in his wars He told me also that Dureus lodged with
also the Tomb of the Emperour Otho the Third in black Marble who in the year 1000 first constituted the Electors of Germany Near to this City are many sorts of Minerals found as Lead ore the Sulphur and Vitriol-stone Iron Coal and Cadmia or Lapis Calaminaris With this latter we saw them make Brass or multiply Copper in this manner They take calcined Cadmia or Calmey as they call it Copper from Sweden and the melted dross of both to twenty eight pounds of Copper they put an hundred pound of Calmey They put first into very large Crucibles some old pieces of brass and slacken or the dross and afterwards the Calmey and Copper and let them stand in the Furnace twelve hours after which they put eight Crucibles full into one and let what will run over the best sinking always to the bottom and then cast it into a Frame made of stone bordered with bars of Iron and so run it into brass Plates which are afterwards cut in pieces with large Cissars The hot Bathes are very much frequented at present Within the inward Walls are three convenient ones The Emperours Bath the Little Bath and the Bath of S. Quirinus The Emperours Bath is in the same place and fed with the same Springs with that in which formerly Charles the Great took so much delight that he frequently used to swim therein in which Exercise few were more expert than himself and spent the latter end of his days here and would often invite to the Bath not only his Sons but his Nobles his Friend and Guards so as it was customary to Bathe a hundred together in those days But now they are divided into lesser Partitions The Emperours Bath having five Bathing Rooms and the Little Bath which cometh out of it three These are reckoned to be Nitro-Sulphureus and arise so hot that they let them cool twelve hours before they use them From under a great round Stone which covered a Well in which there were some of these Hot Springs I saw Brimstone hard above an inch thick and Salt-peter and a petrified Substance finely variegated taken out Besides these near unto the inward Wall of the City there are Baths which are not so hot as the former esteemed to be Sulphureo-nitrous The smell of them is somewhat offensive and the water in the Cisterns not transparent The first is the Bath of St. Cornelius which hath two Receptacles The second the Rose Bath so called from Mr. Rose a Citizen of Aken who built it The third Compus Badt or the Poor man's Bath Of this sort of warm Water there is also a Fountain much resorted to and drank of every morning in the Summer for many Chronical Diseases About a Furlong out of the South-gate of Aken is a Village called Porcetum or Borset from the great number of wild Hoggs which formerly frequented that place in which are many Hot Springs upon both sides of a little Rivolet and let into Houses where they are distributed into several Baths of Stone There are fourteen of these Houses and twenty eight Baths the Baths holding ordinarily about fifty Tuns of Water each of them the Water is clear and pleasant without any offensive smell excessive hot when it cometh first out of the Ground hotter than the hottest of Aken and is left to cool about eighteen hours before they use it They use also an Instrument of Wood pierced with many holes to help to cool them sooner or to stir the Water when any one goeth in whereby he is not so sensible of the heat There are many cold Springs rise near these hot ones whereby they might be tempered and surely the quantity of the hot Water being so great no place might be made more delightful nor no Baths more noble The Turks in our times do most of any Nation beautifie their Baths and render them serviceable to their health and pleasure In Austria at Baden the Sawer Bath is built after the Turkish manner with a Cupola over it and if any one hereafter shall build or beautifie these they will yield to very few in Europe At present most of them are of a square Figure of about five or six yards over and the Houses in which they are very near one another The first House hath the name of the Ladies Bath the second is the Snake the third and fourth the Sword the fifth the Golden Mill the sixth the Fool the seventh the Cock the eighth the Great Bath the ninth the Fountain the tenth the Crab the eleventh the World Inverted the twelfth the Glass the thirteenth the Angel and the fourteenth the Rose There is also another in the open Air called the Poor man's Bath In the Street is a Well or Fountain of these Hot-springs of as great a heat as any I have seen perpetually boyling or bubling But of all these Baths Dr. Blondel and Dr. Didier have written so particularly as I need not to add any thing more and particularly of their Uses Within two Leagues of Aken in the Country of Limbourg is a Mine of Lapis Calaminaris which we went to see having a Corporal and eight Musquetiers for our Security to pass the Wood. This Mine heth over against the Castle of Einenberg As soon as I had delivered a Letter to Mr. John Franck Comptroller of the Mine for his Catholick Majesty he went along with us to shew us the manner how the Cadmia groweth in the Earth and other Curiosities This Mine having been wrought Three hundred years and being one of the most remarkable of that kind it may not be impertinent to set down some particulars concerning it It is about eighteen or nineteen Fathoms deep lying all open like a Chalk Mine of an Oval Figure they digg at present in several places and the best Calmey lieth between the Rocks in the deepest part of the Mine They have now found an excellent Veyn so placed of eleven or twelve Foot thick which they digg out with Pickaxes with some difficulty by reason that the Lapis Calaminaris is so very hard The colour of this Stone is of a dark yellow and red and hath Veyns of natural Brimstone mixed thinly in it The Veyns of the Lapis Calaminaris being so large they follow them not only in one place but digg over one anothers heads and frame their work into the shape of large Stayrs and one throws up what another diggs and so upward till they lade the Carts with it Some of the Cadmia is blackish and dark brown and there are Fluores between the Cavities of the Stone handsomely figured but most of a blackish colour The works about the Mine the most remarkable are these 1. An Overshot-wheel in the Earth which moves the Pumps to pump out the water and this not placed in the Mine but on one side of it and a passage cut out of the Mine to the bottom of it by which the Mine is drained and another passage or cuniculus out of the place where the
then to the King of Spain afterwards by Vichet in the half way and then by Navagne a strong Fort in the Maes which commands the River and at that time did the Spaniard service then by pleasant Rocks on our left hand wherein many Cuts and Passages have been digged till we came in sight of Maestreicht This Town having been a little before taken from the United States by a sharp Siege was full of French and had a Garrison in it of about Ten thousand men and in the Market-place stood about Two hundred large Field-pieces We saw the places where they had their Batteries and their Mines and the Half-moon which the Duke of Monmouth took the Out-works were very numerous and many of them undermined Colonel Storff shew'd us a handsome Draught of all the Works Approaches and Manner of taking of the Town About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went into the great Quarry of Stone which is one of the noblest sure in the World Between Padoa and Vicenza I had formerly seen the famous Cave of Custoza or Cubola said to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth and Seven hundred in length but this doth far surpass it the Roof is very high and stately in most places the Pillars not to be numbred all very large we passed two miles under ground amongst them No Labyrinth can be contrived more intricate and yet all parts are uniform The Floor all in a level and the Roof in most places of the same height and so much hath that uniform rule which I suppose was set to those who first digged and so hath successively been observed added to the beauty of this place that there is scarce any thing more noble It put me in mind of the hundred Chambers of Nero which he caused to be made under Ground in the Rocks at Baiae And the Water which we met with in one place made me think of Nero's admirable Fish-pond built in the like manner within the Earth We came out again near to a Convent upon the Banks of the River and returned by water to Maestreicht The next day we parted Company Mr. Newton Mr. Ettrick Mr. Grove Mr. Carlton and Mr. Newcomb went for Aken and Colen Mr. Bates and Mr. Daston went up the River again to Liege at which place staying a day or two to find a convenience to pass to Brussels we were nobly entertained at a Dinner with Venison Wild-boar and other Dishes by that worthy Person and Learned Mathematician Franciscus Slusius one of the great Canons of Liege who also continued his high Civilities to us to the last Minute we stayed in Town Leaving Liege we soon came in sight of Tongres or Tungrorum oppidum the most ancient place in all these Countries Ortelius would have it to be called of old Atuatuca It was a strong hold before the coming of Julius Caesar into Gaul and was afterwards made a Roman Station and in process of time became so great that Attila the Hun destroyed an hundred Churches in it it being at that time a Bishops See which in the year 498 St. Servatius removed unto Maestreicht Many old Coins and Antiquities are still found here and part of an old Chappel said to be built by St. Maternus Disciple to St. Peter is still remaining When the King of France made his great inroad into the Low Countries 1672. he borrowed this Town of the Elector of Cologne and then passed on to Maseick where crossing the Country to the Rhine by the sides of these great Rivers Rhine and Maes he made that notable Incursion and quitted not Tongres till he had taken Maestreicht the year following We dined this day at Borchloe and lodged at St. Trurn or St. Truden a handsome little Town so called from a Church and Abby herein dedicated to that Saint The next day we dined at Tienen or Tilmont on the little River Geet once one of the chief Towns in Brabant but long since decayed In these Plain Countries in many places we saw small Hills or Sepulchral Eminences of the Ground And near unto the Walls of Yienen are three very remarkable ones said to be the Tombs of great Commanders In the Evening we came to Lovain Lovain is the chief City of that quarter of Brabant which comprehendeth Arschot Halen and Judoigne an ancient and large City pleasantly seated upon the River Dele it is of great Circuit and the compass of the wall accounted above four miles about but there are many void Spaces Hills Fields and Gardens within it which makes it very pleasant and delightful There are herein divers good Buildings Convents and Churches the chief whereof is the stately Church of St. Peter the Convent of the Carthusians the Hospital The publick Palace or Senate-house are also Noble It is the great University of these parts said to have had its beginning about 926. but endowed by John the Fourth Duke of Brabant and confirmed by Pope Martin the Fifth 1425. There are Forty three Colledges in it whereof the four chief are Lilium Falco Castrum Porcus Goropius Becanus a Learned Man and Native of Brussels affirmeth That no University in Italy France Germany or Spain is to be compared unto it for its elegant and pleasant Situation The University is under the Government of Rector who is in great esteem and honour among them This University hath produced many Learned Men But neither the Buildings of the Colledges nor their Endowments do equal those of our Universities and the Situation thereof seems not to exceed that of Oxford We travelled from hence to Brussels being most part of the way in the sight of the very high Tower of the Church of St. Rombald at Machlin Count Monterei was then Governour of the Low-Countries and resided at Brussels the ordinary Seat of the Governours of the Spanish Netherlands which City he had taken care to fortifie and to make it more tenable if it should be attempted by the French From Brussels we passed to Antwerp where we were handsomely treated by Mr. Wauters and Mr. Hartop and having visited some of our Friends the next day we passed the River Schelde and took Coach in the morning travelling through a fruitful plain flat Country set with rows of Trees in most places and arrived in the evening at Ghent Gaunt Gandavum or Ghent is esteemed to be the greatest City not only of Flanders but of all the Law-Countries and challengeth a pace amongst the greatest in Europe but at present it decreaseth and decays rather than encreaseth And if Charles the Fifth were now alive he could not put Paris into his Gant a greater Glove would not fit that City which is so much increased since his time In Ghent are many noble Convents among which the Jesuites is one of the fairest There is a Cloister also of English Nuns The Cathedral is stately and the Tower belonging to it being very high gives a prospect of a pleasant and fruitful Country round about it