her self manfully and at last burned The Author made Slave and put in a Galley with an old Russ Consult to escape Betake themselves to Water and are discovered The Russ shot with an arrow They come both to the Venetian Armade ON the 9 th dito we left Mytilene and with a brave Wind got Monte Sante or Holy Mount in 2 days This being the Hill as the devout Romanists beleeve whereon our Saviour was tempted by Sathan and from whence he show'd him all the Riches of the Earth On the 12 dito we Sailed into the River of Constantinople where we found the Sea-Armade of Venice at Troy which is the place and remnant of the famous Troy so much read of in the Poets of old although it is hard to judge where the Town has verily stood All that is to be seen is a Gate which is built of white Marble and seems to be exceeding ancient and a small Village with the Foundations of a wall that encompasse the Town 7 times not in circular form but as it were involved like a Snake or the spring of a Watch. Towards the Sea are some Trenches and a Redout of Earth which have been lately made by the Turks to check the Passage of the Propontis or Channel of Constantinople On the 14 we were taken into service and I put aboard the Litle Princess On the 15 we saw the Galleys of Bey who seeing that we had stopt the Channel row'd away toward the Greek shoar where they stay'd together being 22 in number On the 16 came an English Ship from Sante called the Midleton to bring Bread Oars and Ammonition for the Armade wâ—ch the Turkish Galleys assail'd when she came near the Dardanelli We hearing that did all we could to sail off and assist them but it was so calm that our Sails cling'd about the mast The Turks in the mean while lay battering the English Ship and the English on the other hand defended themselves couragiously After they had fought some hours the Turks boarded her abaft and got the Poop which the English seeing blew up the Decks and so set the Ship on Fire which nevertheless when they saw her on Fire to the Main Mast ceased not to fire valourously out at the Prow till she began to sink which they marking betook themselves to swimming rather willing to burn or sink than surrender themselves or Ship upon dishonorable Terms However the Turks took up as many as they could and made slaves of them Aboard this Ship was an English Woman who kept a House of Entertainment at Venice notedly known by the name of Mrs. Penters and one that was very kind to the English and Dutch when in any strait or trouble and many of our Nation were sorry when they heard of her Death The Ship Midleton was mounted with 36 Guns and 60 Men whereof about 40 were drown'd and burn'd as we found by the Bodies we took up an hour and a half after the Battel And afterward understood by the Slaves we took in the Engagement at the Dardanelli that the Galleys were so disabled that they repented the Assault besides more than 500 Men outright kill'd and a far greater number wounded While we lay at Anchor at the entrance of the Channel and loating to and again before the Dardanelli the most part of our men were quell'd with a Scorbutic distemper for want of fresh Water For all the Water we could have we must fetch out of the River of Troy which we could not doe without great perril and jeopardy of our lives the Turks having several hidden Trenches in which they lay sculking till they saw opportunity and then surprized us To my great misfortune I was sent out with 7 more to fetch Water with a Boat and coming to Troy we saw very rich Vineyards at a distance and mightily longing for some such refreshments we cast lots who should make the attempt to go and fetch some Grapes and the â—ot fell upon me wherefore without much loss of time I betook my self thither viewing warily if the coast were clear but seeing no stir or appearance of men I went up undauntedly where I made both Hands and Chaps move But whilst I was thus busy heard a great â—oise and turning me about descried several Turks that had lay in ambush running towards me from several places between me and the River Our men were newly come ashoar and filling their Casks with Water who made all the hast they could gain'd the Boat loos'd off from the shoar and eying the Enemy too earnestly ran the Shallop upon a Sand where they were set fast but having some Fire-arms aboard they kept the Turks off till they got the Boat adrift and so made their escape In the mean while I sat biting my nails and scratching my head in the Vineyard Seeing my way forelaid and no hopes of coming to the Sea-side I began to consult with my self what shift to make and concluded it the greatest folly in the world to oppose my self against so many men for which being once in their clutches I might expect severer usage It was not long before they came to see what kind of a Fool they had got in their Gin where they found Peel-garlick ready to yield up the Ghost for fear They brought me first to the Hamlet where Troy was said to stand in times of yore and afterwards to those Castles which are built opposite to each other and command the entrance of the Dardanelli Here they put me in a Galley stript off my Robes shaved my head and set me to an Oar which was work enough for six of us to tug at allowing me only a pair of linnen Breeches to cover my nakedness I was chain'd to a Russian who had been 24 years in the Galleys for all strangers that they take in the Venetian Sea-Armade are to stay in the Galleys during life without the benefit of Redemption Which when I came to understand began in all hast to repent my temerity and foolhardiness and had thought my self more happy if I had been pilling of Turnips or Cucumbers at Durgerdam than plucking of such sour Grapes in a Trojan Vineyard How inhuman and barbarous our Usage was no Tongue can duly utter nor Pen decipher For the Guardian of that Galley was reputed the most severe of any other in the Fleet and although we plyed never so sedulously were sure to be thresh'd on the naked ribs with a Buls-pizle when the fit took him and one mans hide must unjustly be made a piaculum for another's Remisness or Sloth nor was the Tygre ever well but when he heard some a roaring or yelling out The Russ was ever now and then counselling to betake our selvs to flight which I had a great mind to essay for the Venetian Armade lay but two leagues from us but could never see an opportunity meeting perpetually with one obstruction or other and the Coast narrowly watch'd by the Turks The Russ
Kopeke the Couple and satisfyed my Chapman to the full On the 13 we came to Omula which is a Village about 40 English Leagues from Dydenof After two days Sailing we came to Pereslaf which is a small City rebuilt as I have been told out of the Ruins of Resanski which formerly was a famous Town surprized by the Tartars demolished and the Inhabitants removed to Pereslaf On the 17 we came close to Resanski where we viewed the Ruins of the City which testified the former Greatness and Strength of the Town From hence we sailed to the Eastern side of the River where we saw many famous Houses and stately Buildings with Fair Orchards and Groves On the 18 we saw many goodly Towns and Religious Houses and at night arrived at Novosolki a Place solely belonging to the Arch-Bishop Here we bought provision and all kinds of Refreshments that the place affoarded finding all things very cheap and good and from hence we sailed away passing by Schilko Tericho Tinersho Slavada Koponaw and other fair Towns On the 22 we came to Kassienie-gorod a beautifull litle City and the Residence of Prince Reskitski Our Captain and Master intended to visit the said Prince and for that end came here to Anchor but coming a shoar understood that he was departed for Moscou with the old Princess his Mother However they went to view the Palace and were magnificently entertained by the steward of whom after the Exchange of some Rarities on both sides by way of Presents they took their leaves Kassieme-gorod has been formerly a Hold of the Tartars but the present Prince at the age of 12 years surrendred it up to the great Duke of Moscovy whom he as then obtained to be his Protector On the 23 we sailed past many fair Villages Churches Monasteries and other Houses built for Religious uses coming the next morning to anchor before Leshi which is a very great Town but not walled On the 24 we came before Moruma a Town inhabited partly by Russes and partly by Mordwin-Tartars whose Countrey begins here although both the City Moruma and the Circumjacient Land-ship is at present under subjection of his Majesty of Russia On the 27 we sailed by Prewas Palo and some other lesser Towns Near this Place are two Rivers which vent themselves into the Wolga the one called Morsna Reka on the starboard and the other Klesna on the larboard-side in sailing downward which last comes from the City VVolodomur The Bank on the one side is very high Land and steep yet above level and fair Land but to the Northward the Bank is level with the Water and the Land woody and desert nether inhabited nor tilled to any purpose On the 28 we sailed past Isbuilets and Troitska dropping anchor before Slowoda On the 24 we set Sail and came that day before Dudwina where we were forced to remain 4 days and 4 nights by reason of the tempestuous weather The boistrous Winds and Rain somewhat abated we set sail and on the 3 of Iune came before Nofunki and the 8 before the great City Nisen Novogorod situate on an angle of the great River Wolga which is there conjoined with the Oka Nisen-gorod lies in the Latitude of 36 degr and 28 min. under a wholsome climat and in a fertile Countrey It is well fortified with Walls Bulwarks Towers Men and Ammunition of War About 2 English miles without the City live more Inhabitants than within being Russes and Tartars but in subjection to the great Duke The Germans had formerly built two Churches here one for the Lutherans and another for the Calvinists both which went to decay upon their leaving the Town It is here very cheap living and all things necessary for the sustenance of Human Bodies may be procured at easy Rates The Pastures abound with Cattel the Villages with Poultry the Woods with Venison the Rivers with Fish and the Land with Corn Fruit Roots and Plants Butter we bought there for 10 gl the 100 lb. which is after the rate of 2 d per pound and yet we esteemed that the dearest Purchase we bought there We bought there a good sort of Linnen for 2 stivers the Ell which served us well for shirting and other uses aboard the Ship And by reason of the Cheapness of Provision and all necessaries we received here 6 Moneths pay and because that they had here an excellent Ropeyard the Heads of our Company thought good to leave the Lieutenant Schack with our chief Boatswain to look after some Ropes which we had given order to be made as also to fit us with new Anchors On the 21 dito we put off from Nisen and left the Wolga This is reputed one of the greatest and longest Rivers in the whole World taking it's beginning in the highest Mountains of Nova-Zembla running past Ierislaf or Ierislaw Tweer and other eminent Cities whence with many Windings and Turnings it runs through the Land till it come at Astrachan where it divides it self into several Heads like the Nile and so looses it self into the Caspian Sea receiving by the way many great and navigable Rivers and those mostly on the Northeast side from whence by reason that the River receives it's Water it is subject to rising and falling as at Iune it is at highest and in Iuly begins again suddenly to decrease insomuch that it is in all places full of Banks and Sand-beds as hereafter in the pursuit of my Journal shall more particular and ample mention be made whereas when it is increased to it's heighth one may sail over several Islands This said River is in some places more than 3 English miles broad and proving in other places very narrow makeing at each side of the River a Whirl-pool which cannot be avoided without great difficulty The course of this River from Nisen to Casan is mostly East and South-East but from Casan to Astrachan and so to the Mare Hyrcanum or Caspian Sea altogether South On each side the River you have for the most part very good Land and many fair Towns as I have already noted whose Inhabitants are sedulous in their Husbandry and are well supplyed with the particular Products of all the several Landships adjacent on this noble River as also with many sorts of excellent Fish In times past the Wolga was much incommodated by the Cosaks of Don who being very strong in small shipping would sometimes surprize assail and take the Russian Fishermen and Strougs On the 22 we passed by the Islands Tlerinski and Subsinski but towards the Evening were fain to drop anchor by reason of the many Sands and Banks On the 23 we weighed but found our Anchor fast among the Roots of the Trees which cost us some pains to get clear About mid-day we got the Island Dioploy about 3 in the afternoon Musa and about the Evening Kremonsky where we anchored On the 24 we proceeded forward and got Parmino where we took in Provision which we found
hither had their Residence and Magazine at Firando The Dutch Lodge is upon a small Iland severed from the City by a wateâ— about 40 foot broad having a Drawbridge which only is let dowâ— from Sun to Sun The Island is fortified with Pallizados and that â— strong that they think themselves secure enough from any unwarrantable violence The Magazine of the Company is just within thâ— Gates and about the middle stands the house of the President which is a very large and sumptuous Building Besides that there are several other Houses and Shops which make so many Streets and Courts On that side next to the Sea stands another Gate which goeâ— down with great and broad steps built for the receiving in of Gooâ— which come by water This is a very famous Place for Merchandise of all kinds but the chief Commodities they deal in here are Amâ— Steel Buck and Kaymans Hides Silk both raw and wrought Velvet Damask Sattins Cotton Mercury Quick-silver Verdi-greeâ— Camphir Wax Allome Pepper Ivory and Furrs After we had been three days at Nanguesaque and all our Cargâ— unloaded by the Iaponeezes they shut our Hold up and sealed â— with the Emperours Signet Which done the Officers went a shoaâ— and sent us 6 Balis of Sakky a Drink they make of Rice which is veâ— pleasant yet heady and strong After our Ships-folk had got a litle iâ— their heads they put out our Colours but while they were in thâ— heighth of their mirth there rose a blustring wind after whicâ— followed a mighty Hurricano Upon that our Courage was sufficienâ—ly allayed for both our Cables broke and the Ship was tossed mountains high we looking for no other all the time than death The Shiâ— De Vreede was like a litle Boat upon the top of every surge and â— last thrown upon the Strand where she lay drie but all her Bow wâ— bilg'd her Head broke and her Hold full of Sand and Water Our uâ— perworks were sadly battered and the masts brought by the board Thâ— Black Bear and another great Ship lying both with out the head weâ— so shattered that they were brought up by the Iaponeezes as Wrackâ— Besides this great loss which the Company sustained in the Shipping were also most of the Wares in the Magazine damnified by the Sea which beat over the Walls The Town also suffered much by the high wind they not expecting such a Tempest at that time of thâ— year When it had continued about half an hour or more the Heaven â— began to clear and we to get courage but durst not fall to â— king again for fear of another bout Nanguesaque lies in 33 degr 15 min. northerly latitude in a very pleasant Land-ship and is both very great and populous but like most of the Towns of Iapon lies without walls It is seated upon a very commodious Bay or Road fit to receive Ships of the greatest burthen It has a very magnificent prospect from Seaward having an â—n infinit number of Towers Temples and Spacious Palaces The Houses are mostly built of Wood for the Ground is weak and frequently subject to Earthquakes so that they cannot use â— one But the poorer sort have litle Cottages made of Twigs and plaister'd over with Clay as in Brabant Germany and other Countreys They are Covered with Planks which shoot far out over the walls like Pent-house to shelter them from Sun and Rain They have upon â—uch house several Tubs with water which is kept in case of fire to â—hich such buildings are liable And certainly were it not for the great â—fit of the water running through the Town in Ditches as it does almost Towns in Holland it would be suddenly reduced to ashes and â—r this reason have they built several Houses of Stone where to secure â—eir Goods upon such occasions The Houses of this City are uniâ—m and the streets regular there being 88 Streets each 400 foot â—g which are are all fenced off with Palizados at the end and Lantâ—orns set up Here they have also their watch-houses and none are â—uffered to pass by night no not to fetch either Doctor or Midwife â—ithout a Pass from the Governour This Watch is set all ways at 10 a â—ck after which hour few people are seen upon the streets This â— good means to prevent Mutiny and Theft but is a great inconâ—ence if Fire do happen to break out for no street or Ward can â—ave the Assistance of another in such case besides the great danger â—hat the People themselves are in being sometimes so narrowly pen'd â—p An Instance of this happened in the year 1646 when a dreadâ—ull fire happened in a house where several Dutch had their lodging which on a sudden had consumed a great part of the Street and seveâ—al Houses on both sides burnt down to the Ground The Dutch then â—eing themselves in such peril chused rather to hazard the effects â—f the Governours displeasure for that time than to be roasted alive â—roke up the Fence and saved themselves The Iaponeezes are reasonable fair of complexion but a litle meâ— swarthy than the Europeans The ordinary Habit of the Man is â— much distinguishad from that of the Woman They go all wâ— long Robes thrown carelesly about their body and tied round tâ— midle with a Surcingle The Ladies of the best Quality wear garment of cloth of Gold and Silver and that very richly embrâ—dered Their Hair is neatly adorned with gems and preciâ— stones The men are robust and very personable their Heads soâ—thing bigger than is duly analogical with their Bodies Tâ— Women are but slender yet let their Body grow as it will wearing alwaies a loose Garment only their feet they screw â— pinch as much as they can to make them litle which they thâ— handsom So that when they are come to their full growth have like Children of 5 or 6 years old The Iaponeezes are in generâ— very hardy people and can endure any extremity of Heat or â— Hunger or Thirst to a miracle This they seem to come to a hardy usage when they are young for they always bath â— Infants in cold weather in Rivers and sometimes plunge â— over head and ears in Snow They are excellent Warrious are well acquainted with Fire-arms as also with the Long-bowâ— Javelin They are grown famous in all the East for expert Aâ—rers and temper Steel better than the Chineezes which far exceeâ— Europeans Their Swords are so well tempered that I have struck one through an Iron pin of half an inch thick without the lest â— of damage to the edge They follow Hunting much which â— principal Trade and Pastime there in use and prefer Veâ— before any other dainty whatever In their entertainments are very open and liberal and use Tea for a Caress whiâ— far better than that which is exported abroad and prepared a different manner but they refuse to impart it to Christians wâ— I held somewhat strange in regard
ran her Bow-spreet through our main Sail which was with such force that he rent our sail and broke his Spreet-sail yard insomuch that we were both fain to put into Ter Schelling to repair and fit our selves out again On the 20 being clear we set sail the second time and had a fresh gale at South and by West which held favourably so long till we arrived at Riga but when we entred the Baltic Sea it blew so hard that our Mizzen sail was all rent and unfit for use whereupon the Master set me to work to repair the defects On the 1 st of October we got the Boldera which is the Haven or River of Riga where we dropt Anchor Immediately upon our arrival came the Searchers to visit the Ship and amongst other Goods found a Parcel of contra-band Wares and took it ashoar with them but the Master told them that it was thrown in by chance and pray'd them to be so kind as to leave it aboard which after he had daubed them a litle in the fist they did The next day being under sail we were becalm'd and fain to cast anchor half way up the River On the 3 ditto we came up to the Kay of Riga where being arrived the Master refused to pay me the moneys he agreed with me for to make up his sail which was 10 Rix-dollars but on the contrary gave me very ill Language and told me if I had any pretence upon him the Law was open and Judges appointed for the decision of such controversies This great ingratitude made me to take a course I never intended which was to send him summons to appear in the Town hall where upon a second citation he made his appearence and was condemned to pay the money in presence of the Court. Riga is an eminent Emporium lying within the Prinsdom of Lithvania and seated in a Champain land on the north-east side of the great River Duna It is fortified with Walls Bulwarks and Ditches or Motes populous and full of Trade being as it were the Magazin to supply the whole Countrey above with all kinds of Wares and Commodities and is also a great Thorow-fare By Winter they receive Goods over Land in Sledges and Waggons from Moscovia which is transmitted abroad and by Summer from England Germany Holland and other Places by Shipping which are sent that way again with the Moscovian Waggons and Sledges The Countrey about Riga affoards good plenty of all kinds of Provision as Kine Sheep Goats besides 3 sorts of Deer the Sea and Rivers affoard good store of Fish and the Boors besides their diligence in breeding up of Cattel supply other Countreys with Corn of all sorts and Lactuaries so that it is cheap living at or near Riga This City was formerly within the Jurisdiction of the Kings of Poland but was taken in by Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden upon the 16 of September 1621 after a long and hard Siege and is at this day in subjection to that Crown On the 10 ditto we left Riga and with our compleat Company and Baggage imployed 30 Waggons to bring us to Pletsko and took up our first nights Lodging at Niew-meulen being a Village where all the Waggons and Horses are set over a River with great Logs of Timber fastned together that float above the Water On the 11 we proceeded again on our Journey and broke two of our Waggon-wheels which the Waggoners repaired and so we proceeded on our Journey At night we came into an Inn which was so meanly provided for Bedding that we were fain to lay all night in the Waggons The next day we travelled through a great Wood in the middest whereof was a broad Marsh that cost us some Hours to go over When we were through the Wood we passed through several little Villages the Inhabitants whereof were a miserable silly People hardly able to draw one leg after the other The Women have only an old Rag like a Plad thrown about their bodies hardly sufficient to hide their nakedness except a litle below their ears to let the World know they have hair as well as other People so that they look like so many Gypsies newly come from the famous Peak of Darby As for their Houses they are but one degree beneath a Hog-sty and those as full of Utensils as a Knave is full of Honesty All that ever I could see was an earthen Pan or two and those so clean that I had rather fast a week than eat any thing that has come out of them Great plenty of Cattel they have and such as have three times as many feet as they themselves As for Beds they have none but such as their Oxen ly upon for when they have stuffed their Gutts they ly down upon the floor one after another as the Nap takes them Their Diet is suitable to all things else they have for although they might have Venison for knocking on the Head the Creature may live till Dooms-day before they will take the pains to lift a hand to kill it unless it be a louse which sometimes they crush to death for change of Diet. As for their Bread it is not much unlike our New-castle Coal for colour but how it is of Tast I know no more than the Man in the Moon for neither my Appetite nor Curiosity could move me to it Cabbage they have in great abundance which is of a Tast like Sorrel but close and white like ours That and Cucumbers are the main ingredients whereof these People seem to be compounded but more especially the latter for Cucumber attends them from the Womb to the Tomb being held in perpetual Slavery by their Lords They are conformable to no Laws unless what they are forced to observe by a strict aw which their Lords impose upon them and injoyn them to They are by nature obtuse and dull inclined to Necromancy and Sorcery but in the performance of an Exorcism so palpably ridiculous that I wonder how they have obtained that repute they have in the World among those who ought to be wiser than to beleeve such groundless Fictions They have no manner of Schools wherein to educate their Children that ever I could see or hear of neither Churches or other Houses for Religious use so that they are brought up in the greatest Blindness and obscurity that may be Some of them 't is true will needs be called Christians but those are they that have travelled as far as Riga which they think is the Head of the World yet are those so stupid as a Lifeland Gentleman told me that they have learn'd Catechism enough if they can but know the Church from a Dwelling house or to pull of their Caps when they see a man with a shoulder knot pass by Yet they are flexible enough to Idolatry by Nature and withall superstitious In our going through the Woods we saw a great Troop of them busy about Conjuring
a 3d of the currant value which was bought up of the Persian and Armenian Merchants I bought a Gold-chain of one of them which was almost a fathom long and in joynts like a Bracelet between each piece were precious stones the price I gave for it was not fully 7 pound sterl Shortly after their Arrival Captain Butler went to visit him taking 2 bottles of Brandy along with him which he thought might be an acceptable present since they had been so long at Sea and presented them to him and his Minion whom the Russians called Devils-whisker by a Nick-name When we came to his Tent and desired admittance he sent to know who we were Answer was returned him that we were Dutch and imployed in the service of the Czaar upon a Ship in the Caspian Sea He forthwith gave order to a Gentleman to conduct us into his Tent where himself and some of his Council sat and caused us to sit down took our present in good part and drank the Emperours health Another time we went through the Camp where we saw him going aboard a Yacht to divertise himself upon the Water with some of his Officers he had with him a Persian Princes which he had taken together with her Brother The Brother he presented to the Waywod of Astrachan but the Sister he kept for his Concubine Being now in the heighth of his Cups and full of Frolicks bragged of the many presents he had given and received since his being restored to the Emperours favour and on a sudden brake out into those Extravagant terms speaking to the Wolga VVell said he thou art a noble River and out of thee have I had so much Gold Silver and many things of Value Thou art the sole Father and Mother of Fortune and advancement but unthankfull man that I am I have never offered thee any thing well now I am resolved to manifest my gratitude With those words he took her into his Arms and threw her into the VVolga with all her rich Habit and Ornaments her attire was of rich Cloth of Gold richly set out with Pearls Diamonds and other precious Stones The Lady was of an angelical Countenance and amiable of a stately carriage of Body and withall excellently well qualified as to her Parts being of a singular wit and always pleasing in her demeanor towards him when he was in the heat of fury and yet at last became the instance of his Cruelty However there is no man so addicted to any one Vice but there are ever more some sparks of vertue His own outrages as to the sin of Adultery he would allow himself but would not indulge or dispence with it in others It happened that a certain Soldier of the Cosacks had been taken in the action with anothers wife this being made known to Stenko he caused them both to be instantly apprehended and the man to be thrown into the River with great stones made fast to his neck and heels but for the Adulteress he provided another punishment which was to erect a Pale on the Water side and tying her by the feet caused her to be so drag'd along the Earth and from the Tent to the Pale which was almost 2 English miles and there hoised up where she hung 48 Hours before she died and yet nevertheless the great torment of which she must needs be sensible all that time she never was heard to shriek or cry out Besides the many Robberies and great insolencies they had committed as well within Land as in Sea-Towns in Persia as at Nisabath Scabaran Mardore and Tackusi situated near the famous Hill Barmach from hence they went to Astrabath and Bachu which they surprized took in and plundered committing many barbarous actions in massacring of the Inhabitants and setting the Houses on fire Here they found a great Quantity of Wine which they divided among themselves and caroused so long till they were all besotted and drunk being about 6000 Men in all In the mean while the Persians had drawn down several Companies and all on a sudden fell on this Rout and made such a slaughter that the twelfth part or litle more were left alive and Stenko himself 5 times in danger of being taken The Remainder betook themselves to the Stroegs This so much weakened them that they were not in a capacity to do any considerable damage by land the more by reason the Persians watched their Coast with very great vigilancy as did also the Cosacks and Dagestan Tartars so that they were constrained for some time together to keep off at Sea and keep close to Pyracy where every one was well warned of them and consequently so cautious that they got but very litle Booty But finding that they could not long subsist they were forced to land at Satyry Boggere an Island of which before where they waited for what Providence would allott them CHAP. XIV Stenko returns back and is followed by many Russes but opposed by an Order from Psoforoski which Stenko disobeys He returns again with a greater Power The Waywode of Astrachan sends out a Fleet against him which shamefully yields The Officers murthered A great Perplexity at Astrachan Power and Aw of Stenko His cruelty and Pride His Legates are devoured of Dogs in Persia Kumuskinka surrendred by Treachery STenko Radzin whose implacable fury against some that had interposed themselves to incite the Emperour against him and to deprive him of his favour would not suffer him to remain still but their bodies being now somewhat asswaged which before were swollen with drinking of salt Water and their Vitals again revived with fresh Diet which were almost spent with long fasting during the time of their extravagancies they resolved to go for Don and to visit their respective homes Radzin gives them a short warning to prepare for a March and in order thereto gets all things in a readines himself Some discontented Russians seeing the Cosacks ready to depart they came and desired to list themselves under his Conduct to which he readily assented and by fair Promises drew abundance after him It happened sometime before he designed to leave the Town that meeting with about 20 or more Russians whom he could see by their countenance to be inclinable to follow him these he fell in discourse with and liberally distributed a Bag of Gold among them promising them that if they would follow him they should fare no worse than he This was encouragement enough for them who did not only list themselves but perswaded also many of their Friends to take the like Course and joyn their Fortunes amongst whom were divers that were in the Emperours Service The Governour of Astrachan coming to understand that several Persons in the service of the great Duke his Master had withdrawn and listed themselves among the Rebells he sent one Wederos a Captain of the Strelitzers to Radzin with Instructions to demaund the Russians and to will him to send them back upon pain of the
They fall down the Wolga and miss their Course Then touch at Oetzjoege The strange manner of fishing of the Bieloege The great plenty of Cavear They meet with great difficulty to gain the Caspian Sea which at last they get A description of the Island Satyry Boggere Tall Reeds grow all along the Coast A dreadfull Tempest The Golden Bay Their meeting with a Tartarian Bark A description of Terki The Beginning of the Circas-Tartars Their Persons and Complexions described Their Habit and Way of Living Of their Women their Habit Humours and Inclinations Their Idolatry Steur vangst inde Rivier de WOSGA A. Waght â—raysen aen weder sydts des Wolga B. Het Pael-wereâ— C. De Caspische Zee When we were come to this Place The Tartars would not convoyes any further saying If you were but sensible of the difficult passage 〈◊〉 get the Sea you would keep you where you are but added they if you 〈◊〉 resolve to go when you are at Oetsjoege you may set your course directly forwaâ— till you come at the Sea This we were forced to take in good part anâ— pay them for their pains The money we conditioned for satisfieâ— them very well but at parting they told us that they were affraid 〈◊〉 would not easily get through whereas they knew no better but there was a striâ— watch held on each side the Wolga This last startled us not a little however we resolved unanimously hap hazard to venture through let what would follow adjudging it equally safe to run that periâ— or to suffer the Calamities we were liable to and had in some regarâ— deserved and in that resolution continued sailing till we found thâ— Stakes or Pale-work so close in the Mouth of the River that theâ— was only a narrow Passage to go through About the end of the saiâ— passage we saw a Redoubt which at a distance seemed to be verâ— strongly fortified which mainly increased our fears but greatly tâ— our good luck we found no Watch but only a few Fishers who haâ— no Authority or warrant to examin us insomuch that we steereâ— boldly through but considering our Bread was almost brought to aâ— end for we were brought to an Allowance of an ounce per diem wâ— therefore turned back and prayed the Fishermen to supply us for our Moneys but they told us they had hardly enough to suffice themselves which very much disheartned us however they supplied us with Fish as much as we had need of to serve us over the Caspian Meer On the 14 we set out and left the Wolga which there leaves it selâ— divided into several streams or Heads like the Nile as before making so many several Islands which are low and full of Reeds except only the Island Satyri Boggore which is surrounded on every side with high Cliffs Upon this Island we saw some Watch-houses which Stenko Radzin even now remembred had caused to be built to view the approachment of his Enemies However it was not intent his intent or design in building of these Watch-houses only to be forewarned of any danger but to prey upon the Persian Merchant men who were bound for Astrachan From hence to the Circas-Mountains we often sounded and found it never more or seldom less than 12 foot Water All along the Coast we saw abundance of Wild-geese Pelicans and other Fowl which now and then we bestowed a litle powder upon The strand was all grown over with Reeds which grow to an incredible heighth and the Water there we found deeper than off at Sea in somuch that it were very commodious in a storm for any small vessel to shelter themselves dropping anchor a litle without for the Reeds break of the Winds and the impetuous beatings of the Water In the afternoon towards the Evening it began to thunder and rain very hard the Wind was very high at South and by East and our Course lay South and by West The Water all the time beat over the Gunhil and two men forced to heave out with their Backlers though hardly to any purpose for notwithstanding all the pains they took the Shallop was still full the Tempest continuing so till 5 in the next morning at what time it began to grow very calm and moderate yet not so but that we were driven with a fine fresh Gale The Water here is fresh and potable and affoards all manner of Fish that usually breed in fresh Rivers Pike Carps Breams c. Besides Sturgeons Seals and other creatures that will endure both On the 15 we lost the sight of Land and came about midday into the Bay Kieselarke which is otherwise called the Golden Bay the sand whereof shines as fire and is therefore by some called Kiselarsche Kolthoeh which is no other than Golden Bay My curiosity was often to tast the Water sometimes I found it last of Sulfur sometimes of Saltpeter and sometimes of an od bitter tast whence I collected that this came from the property of the Ground and bottom The River Kiselar is a Branch or an Arm of the Bustro rising about 8 Dutch Leagues above Terki and runs paralel with the VVolga about 65 leagues so disbanding its floods into the Caspian Sea But now we were in a more desperate Condition than ever partly for that our Shallop was so loaden that we were not a foot above Water and on the other hand wanted bread for we had not above 6 or 7 pound among all the Company The Wind began to grow high and boystrous and towards the Evening we had a very rough Sea every billow rising Mountains high insomuch that with continual pumping and laving we had much ado to keep the Shallop above Water working some times 4 or 5 together and by taking turns relieved those that were weary every hour with fresh men The next morning we could see no land but let all be left to the mercy of GOD. On the 16 we had a stiff gale and sailed before the Wind which furthered us so that by noon we descried Land and soon after got sight of a Dagestan-Tartar's Barque which we made up to but when we came near it it was run upon a Bank and deserted of the Men which upon our approaching them jump'd over board We perceiving that it was only for us that they left their Vessel called out to them and willed them freely to return and that we meant no harm upon which they came back and we pray'd them to furnish us with some bread for our Money but they told us that they had not enough for their own Voyage however they gave us 6 litle Loaves for which they would have no money as also dried Pears and Plumbs which we thank fully received This said Bark was laden with Bales of Silk and bound for Astrachan which when we understood we gave them a Caution and told them that we verily beleeved that by that time Astrachan was in hand of the Cosacks and consequently we could not judge it safe for
swallowed up in the Earth alive and as lamentable to see some crush'd to pieces and others half dead some so fast closed up between Walls that they could not be got out And others wanting their Legs Arms and other Members nor was there any but sustained some loss one way or other When it ceased every one hoped that all was done but the next day at night the Earth began again to tremble and shake insomuch that all was in a consternation but none sustained any considerable loss that I could hear of Upon the 6 dito it frose very hard insomuch that the River was to Upon this were the Ceremonies of the Consecration of Water solemnized by the Armenian Christians in presence of the Chan his Son our Ambassador the Poslanick or an Armenian Courier who was dispatched for Moscou and then at Scamachy all the Persian Nobility and Armenian Christians from all Villages round about and from afar in the Countrey who came with Crosses Flags and Bells singing Hymns all the way till they came over the Puley Ambery a Bridge so called where they sate down On the morning very early the Bishop came out with great Pomp and sung Mass after which an Oration was made suiting the Day being Epiphany which he performed with great Zeal and Pains After that was a Feast which they call Chalse Schuran or Dipping of the Cross These Ceremonies were performed as follows On each side the River were placed the Chans Guards and all the Soldiery to prevent any Tumult or abuse of the Armenians who pay dear enough for the same After the Chan had taken his place in a Tent expressly provided for that Prince and the Watch set in good order the Bishop went to beg permission before which obtained he dare not begin So soon as the Token was given some of the Armenians ran naked into the Water and cut up the Ice with Bills the Bishop all the while continues reading and the Common people sing After this they begin to play upon Bels and Cymbals then the Bishop stepping softly to the River side pours in Oyl and Water Then he took a litle Silver Cross set with Diamonds and other precious Stones which he dipt 3 times in the Water This done he took a staff or Crosier and stretched it several ways over the River pronouncing several Benedictions Immediately upon this all the People ran together and strove who should be first at the River to drink and wash their Faces This was observantly don of all sorts of People young and old Men and Women Last of all several youths uncloathed themselvs jumped into the River and swam to and again diving several times together as if it had been in the midst of Summer The Bishop departing homewards was accompanied with several Damosels playing upon Instruments and singing all the way before him On the other part there were several Persian Whores and Prostitutes who came to seek their Game singing and dancing after a very lascivious fashion In short it concluded as the Orgia or Bacchanalia in the time of Gentilism which were celebrated by the Thyades or Priests of Bacchus with the Persians who made use of this season as a Fair whither repaired many Juglers Pedlers Stage-players other Vagabonds but the Armenians did not either in Eating or Drinking exceed the Limits of Moderation CHAP. XXIII The Ambassadours Sister goes to Tafflis and with her the Polish Chirurgeon The Corps of an Indian burn'd with a Christian she-slave The Woman having taken in a Potion to provoke sleep is also cast into the furnace Two Men murthered at Scamachi and a tumult thereupon Strange Ceremonies about the Dead The Chans son is presented with a Kolotan or Robe of Favour and one of the Kings Wives A man struck dead with staves A fearful Earth-quake The Chan also receives a Robe of Favour and a Wife Pompous Solemnities at the delivery of the same He receives the Princess New Tidings from Russia The Ambassador commanded by the King of Persia to return for Poland who makes his excuse The miserable Estate of the Polish Gentry Theft committed in the Ambassadors Palace A man tortured that was innocent The Polish Chirurgeon fortunatly married at Tafflis Another Corps of an Indian burned with a living Woman The great kindness of Hadsy Biram to the Author His bad entertainment with the Ambassador ON the 9 th departed the Sister of Bochdan the Polish Ambassador for Tafflis with 7 Camels and conducted with som Georgian Soldiers The City Tafflis is distant from Scamachy about 8 Leagues The next day her Brother with the Ambassadors Chirurgeon called Adam departed also This Chirurgeon was a Polonian by Birth and had been sent for by the Prince of Tafflis who intreated the Ambassador to let him come promising him a sufficient Salary besides his Diet Appartments at Court 4 Slaves of whether sex he liked and to provide him a Wife of his own chusing and Religion the Prince being himself a Roman Catholic The Chirurgeon with whom I was very intimate would often consult the Matter with me and ask what advice I could give him I alwaies council'd him Not to neglect such a golden Opportunity telling him further what he had to expect if he should continue with such a Varlet as Bochdan was who was both greedy and ingratefull for the best service any one could do him althô it were supererogatory That if the Ambassadour should return for Poland as 't was a matter very dubious he would still be in statu quo and must if he stay'd here never hope for any advancement by him who was becom loathsom to the worst of men He thanked me for my advice and resolved to do as I had council'd him and soon after departed as is said Right sorry I was when he left us being ever kind to me and other Slaves althô I was by duty injoyn'd to wish and rejoyce at his Welfare for his extraordinary Civilities The Prince of Tafflis began first to be taken with him upon his noble cure performed on the Ambassador when he was struck down by the Poles as was said before On the 15 died at Scamachy one Tzouke a very rich Indian whose Corps his Brother after their manner desired to burn which by a very long and importunate intercession of the Prince was granted he paying for the same about .1300 Crowns The Indian having obtained this Grant the next day bought a Christian Woman which he burned with the Corps The Bodie and the Woman were carried together without into the Field where they had made up a great Staple of Wood and a place within for the Corps The Indian Priests gave the Woman a Potion to provoke sleep and then set her upon an Engine like a Crane or Whip made on purpose letting her so fall into the Fire In the mean time the Bonzi poured a great Vessel of Turpentine Oil upon the Wood and so set it on fire and then gave the
entertainment of Friends Neatness and cleanliness in their Houses and Bodies Their way of dressing themselves both men and Women Strange Contracts of Matrimony Early marriage Education of their Children Learning and learned Men had in great veneration Rites about their deceased Urbanity in their Conversation The great Affection of the Emperour towards Strangers c. Pag. 37. CHAP. VIII The Sieur van Muyden invited to the Exequies of the Princess A stately Scaffold erected for the Solemnity of the day A magnificent and sumptuous Altar Ornaments of the Corps The Train attending the Ceremony Order of the same Money thrown among the people Stages erected for the Almosners Artificial Fireworks The vast Charges of this Preparation Pag. 41. CHAP. IX The Body of the Princess burnt A remarkable token whereby it was concluded that she was poysoned The Kings fury against all the Domestics of the Princess who are committed to custody The cruel Punishment of the suspected Parties A strange way to find out the guilty Elephants used as Executioners Fifty men and Women executed in one day some by Elephants others buried in the Earth to the Head where they are suffered to starve A Young Lady with her Brother taken and dispatched Their Candour and free resolvedness to die Pag. 44. CHAP. X. The proud and blasphemous Titles of the King of Siam The great Preparations used to asswage the Waters of the Ganges Pag. 50. CHAP. XI Departure from Siam They take a Junk The Cambodiers put in a Ship without Rudder or Sails Arrival at Formosa The Junk and all the Men cast away A Description of Formosa with an account of its Products and the Nature of it's Inhabitants as also their Houses Habit and Customes Pag. 54. CHAP. XII The Author departs from Formosa His arrival at Japon The Description of Nanguesaque The Condition of the Town A dreadfull fire at Nanguesaque The Stature Nature Habits and Customs of the Japoneezes Departure from Japon Arrival at Formosa the second time Their return to Siam where they take in Elephants The Author beat with a ropes-end at the Main-mast and why His return for Holland and End of the first Voyage Pag. 59. The SECOND VOYAGE CHAP. I. AN account of the Authors undertaking his Second Voyage A great Sea Storm His arrival at Yarmouth and at Leghorn with a Description of that Town as also of Pica and Florence and lastly of Bologne Pag. 65. CHAP. II. The Author departs from Bologne and arrives at Ferrara Assail'd by a Robber His Arrival at Venice where he lists himself in the Armade He arrives at Sante A great storm between Milo and Argentero The Ship called The Golden Cock split upon Rocks A sad Shipwrack A Woman wonderfully sav'd The Authors arrival at Candia Departs with a Tartan to the Venetian Armade Their Appearance before Mytilene where they obtain much Spoil and Provision at last assaulted by 200 of the Turkish Chevalrie Their Encounter and return aboard the Fleet. Pag. 73. CHAP. III. The Authors Arrival at Sante Monte and at Troy The Galleys of Bay come with the Turkish Armade An English Ship ingaged with the Turks defends her self manfully and at last burned The Author made Slave and put in a Galley with an old Russ Consult to escape Betake themselves to Water and are discovered The Russ shot with an arrow They come both to the Venetian Armade Pag. 78. CHAP. IV. The fugitiv Slaves brought before the General The manner of their Encouraging their Men. Number of the Venetian Ships and Galleys Names of the Commanders and Chieftains The Malteezes joyn with the Armade The Turkish Fleet sail up endeavour to break through and are hindred by the Malteezes The Turks throw up two Batteries A dreadfull Engagement and playing off the Cannon for three days together The Turks begin to settle The Stability and valour of the Venetians The Turks loose their Courage Pag. 82. CHAP. V. The Wind turns in favour of the Venetians The Turks flee and are obstructed The brave Courage of the Galleys of Bey General Marcello kill'd The manly Behaviour of Lazaro Mocenigo who looses one eie Two Dutch Ships to wit Het Wapen van Nassan and Den David en Goliath blown up with their own Powder The Turkish Capitana yields The General and disorderly Flight of the Turks Their total overthrow and loss on both sides Pag. 87. CHAP. VI. The Siege of Tenedos The two Castles surrendred A description of Tenedos Lemnos it 's Situation and taking in The present state of Greece I. Struyl's arrival at Pathmos and Samos Taken by the Turks with 6 of his Companions and soon after ransom'd Pag. 90. CHAP. VII The Author admitts himself again into the Service of the Venetians Arrival at Corfu with an account of it's Strength Bulwarks Sconces and other Fortifications near and about the City Fertility of the Island Arrival at Cephalonia it 's Fertility Situation and Strength Arrival at Sante an account of its Strength its Villages Scarcity of fresh Water Arrival at Cerigo Situation of that Island Reliques or Ruins of the Temple of Venus Pag. 96. CHAP. VIII The Author's arrival at Sante or Xante It 's admirable Strength Villages and great Scarcity of fresh Water Their Dough for bread kneaded with Wine in stead of Water Arrival at Cerigo Situation of that Island Reliques of the Temple of Venus Arrival at Candia with it's Situation A Description of the Citie as to it's Strength Inhabitants the most eminent Buildings and Churches Climat Soil Vintage Fruits Vegetables Cattel Fowl Plenty of Silk and other Commodities as also the modern Habit and Attire of the Candians A Description of Standia The famous Fight between Lazaro Mocenigo and the Tributary Auxiliaries of Argiers Tripoli Theunis and Zoëli The Fort of Zouaschi taken in by the Proveditor Mocenigo The Turks attacque Tenedos but in vain The Turkish Armada come out of the Dardanelli The Beginning of the Ingagement The Turkish Emperour comes with an Army of 20000 Horse and 80000 Foot down to the shore where from a high Tent he sees the Ingagement The Turks loose their Posts and Sail off The incomparable valour of Mocenigo and Bembo who are unluckily kill'd by the fall of a Sail-yard Their Galley blown up with 400 Men. The Loss and Gains both on sides Pag. 98. CHAP. IX The Venetian Armade appear before Napoli di Malvazia where they attack a Redoubt which is surrendred The City treats with the Govèrnour The Fleet appears before Santorini 2 terrible Earthquakes Wine good and cheap The Author sent ashoar to buy Provision The Fleet under Sail. The Turks come upon the Island the Author in danger of being made Slave hidden by the Greeks and brought to Embro with a Barque Arrival before Nicsia The Ruins of Apollos Temple Arrival at Metelino it 's Situation and Strength plenty of Marble Cypres wood Wine and Cattel Nicsia the Winter-haven for the Turkish Galleys S. Georgia de Scyro Delos Reliques and Ruins of Heathenish Temples and
detect his Companions which he manfully endures They are brought before the Osmyn and chained Pag. 206. CHAP. XVIII The Captivs take their leavs of each other The great Orchard near Tzurbag Their Arrival at Urwan Situation of Mount Ararat An accidental meeting with some Carmelite Friars The Author insisted upon to undertake a Cure of a Rupture which with much perswasion he promises to do His ascent up the Mountain Ararat to the Hermites Cell who was his Patient which he performs in 5 days time He undertakes and cures the Rupture The Copy of an Attestation given him by the said Hermite in barbarous Latin His return down Pag. 212. CHAP. XIX The Author put in Chains again He is insisted upon to renounce the Christian Faith and become Mahometan Divers means to that end put in practise by way of Trial. The great gain of warm Baths The Author taken out of Chains He is sold to a Persian The Situation of the Caspian Sea Great Whirlpools in the Bay of Gilan A discourse about the Silk-trade A further Description of the Caspian Sea c. Pag. 218. CHAP. XX. A Description of Derbent it's Walls The Sultans Court. Very old Ruins Divers Watch-towers Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent Their Slave-market The Author sold again His Patron married with a Polish Woman and runs into Danger of his Life The Intention of his Patroness in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her Two of Mr. Struys's Companions come to Derbent How they made their escape from the Tartars The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hollanders A Device put in practise to set one of the Authors Companions at Liberty The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own Brak makes his escape Pag. 225. CHAP. XXI The great difficulty of getting Wood without Derbent The Author and his company assailed by Robbers two several times The kind nature of his Patron They travel to Scamachy The Hill Barmach The Pit of Naphta Arrival at Scamachy A Description of that City A great Earthquake at Scamachy Abundance of men misfortunatly killed The Author meets with 2 Franciscan Friars A rehearsal of some part of their Discourse their Zeal to get him out of the Service of a Mahometan Advice given him by his Patron He comes first into the Service of the Polish Ambassadour Pag. 235. CHAP. XXII The Hatred and Churlishness of the Ambassadour against the Polish Gentry A Polish Gentleman murthered in his bed The pitiful case and condition of the Polanders who were in the Retinue of the Legate The Ambassadours Greediness He indeavours to turn Mahometan The Authors intention to make his escape Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi where they do what they can for the Captivs The Ambassadors Brother goes for Ispahan where he desires to be admitted as a Mahometan but is not received William the Masters Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi A great Earth-quake Consecration of Water among the Armenian Christians A great concourse of People and remarkable Ceremonies CHAP. XXIII The Ambassadours Sister goes to Tafflis and with her the Polish Chirurgeon The Corps of an Indian burn'd with a Christian she-slave The Woman having taken in a Potion to provoke sleep is also cast into the furnace Two Men murthered at Scamachi and a tumult thereupon Strange Geremonies about the Dead The Chans son is presented with a Kolotan or Robe of Favour and one of the Kings Wives A man struck dead with staves A fearful Earth-quake The Chan also receives a Robe of Favour and a Wife Pompous Solemnities at the delivery of the same He receives the Princess New Tidings from Russia The Ambassador commanded by the King of Persia to return for Poland but makes his excuse The miserable Estate of the Polish Gentry Theft committed in the Ambassadors Palace A man tortured that was innocent The Polish Chirurgeon fortunatly married at Tafflis Another Corps of an Indian burned with a living Woman The great kindness of Hadsy Biram to the Author His bad entertainment with the Ambassador Pag. 249. CHAP. XXIV The manner of Celebrating New years day among the Persians Advice from Boynak from Derbent Fire-balls fall from the Sky Five Hundred beautiful Damosels sought up for the Scach or Sophy of Persia A quaint mean by which a Merchant saves his Daughter The Author writes to Smarna A Chieftain of the Cosaks brought into Scamachy and is compelled to carry 3 of his Companions Heads in a Bag to Ispahan where he is upon promise of detecting somthing of weight set at Liberty A Persian murthered by a drunken Georgian The murtherer executed by the Brother of the murthered Party A horrible Self-murther committed by several Persons at a Wedding A great Feast celebrated in memory of Hosseyn the 3 d Son of Ali. A terrible Earth-quake The Chans Son dies and is interred Pag. 257. CHAP. XXV News from Astrachan A Woman and Adulteress taken in the Fact A Young Gentleman caned to death by Order of the Prince and Complaint of his Father Another put to the same death One of the Authors Companions goes for Ispahan Hail-stones as big as Eggs. The Author and a Venetian entertained in an Armenian Monastery A Woman taken in Adultery for which she is surrendred up to the Will and Power of her Husband who fleas her alive nails up her Skin upon the Wall and throws her Carcase out into the street The great Jealousie of the Persians The male Children about the Court gelded The great Slave-market at Scamachy The unnatural custom of the Georgians The Ambassadour receives a Charge to depart Pag. 267. CHAP. XXVI A dreadfull Tempest Great Balls of Fire fall upon the Earth A most fearful Deluge whereby Houses Men and abundance of Cattel are carried away The Chan receivs another Robe of Favour The Offerings of the Banjans for the Fowl and Fish The Religious Exercise of the Persian Women The Author's Discourse with the Chan. The Author meets with one of the Tartars who had made him Slave He gets out of the service of the Polish Ambassador The great Bounty and kindness of his Patron Hadzi Biram and of Altine his Patroness One of his Company made free Pag. 273. CHAP. XXVII Their departure out of Scamachi The Countrey about Kasily described and the manner of living of the Inhabitants A Description of the River Araxex The Heath of Mokan whither all the Banditti and Mutinous Persons have recourse Abundance of Tortoises near Balharu The Poverty yet contented Life of the People and Inhabitants there about The Author set upon by Robbers The Carravan Assailed and Plundered A famous stone Bridge The sepulchre of Zeyde Tzeybrail Arrival at Ardebil The Situation of that Town The bitter Cold. Great and raging Whirl-winds Extraordinary good Wheat The great Toll and Duty paid for Sheep Seven and Fifty Towns within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil A Description of the City of it's Streets and of the Street of Strumpets
who are Poëtesses and ordained to compose Hymns of Praise to the name of the Great Aly Free Places within the City The Markets and Shops Sumptuous Mezids and Chappels Pag. 281. CHAP. XXVIII Hadzi Byram goes to perform his Religious Duties at the Sepulchre of Zeyde Tzebrail The Author begs of his Lord that he may be Spectator of the Ceremonies which at last after many intreaties is granted A Description of that noble Mausoleum Famous Baths in Ardebil The sulphurous Baths whither the Author accompanies his Patron The manner of using those Baths The stupendious and sumptuous Sepulchre of Scach Sephy described The great Zeal and Devotion of Hadzi Byram The Oratory or House of Prayer where as they say Schach Sephy prayed and fasted for 40 Days togeher without Intermission using only a Cup of Water every day Doors covered with Plates of Gold by Schach Abas The Library and Repository of the Utensils for the Kings Table The Garden or Yard where the Persian Kings lie interred The names of the 12 Kings that lie there buried The Revenues belonging to this Mesar or Sepulchre Som fast Revenues Ardebil a famous Mart. Pag. 290. CHAP. XXIX The Author taken for a Persian which gave him occasion to see all that was worthy of remark The Caravan leavs Ardebil and goes over the famous Mountain Taurus The Head of the River Kisiloseyn Bad and uneasy Travelling by reason of steep Rocks Peril of Robbers Arrival at Sultanie Keydar Pey-Amber a wonderfull high Mountain it 's Situation and by whom built Emarath the Noble Palace of King Choddabende The Temple of Schach Ismaël The present decaying State of Sultany The Author shorn and habituated after the Persian Manner Pleasant Dales and Valleys Arrival at Caswin The Situation of that Place The Court of Schach Tames The Place of Convention or Exchange of Whores The Common Place of Sepulture and Metzid of of Scach Bessade the Son of Hosseyn by which the Persians swear The Offering of a Camel Pag. 298. CHAP. XXX Departure from Caswin Arrival at Saba and an account of the Condition of that Town The Earth red and barren by the Curse of Mahomet They arrive at Kom with a Description of that Place Melons of a very fragrant and lovely smell A strange kind of Cucumbers Khom the Staple for Weapons The People addicted to Thievery The Author's combat with a Greek Renegado Departure out of Khom Arrival at Kaschan It s Situation The People and their way of Living and Negotiation Noble Carawanseras or Houses of Entertainment Many Gold-and Silk-Cloth Weevers A sort of great and venemous Scorpion and a kind of fell Spiders which are a powerfull venom with the strange manner of Cure for the same Their Arrival at Natens A Faulcon fights and conquers an Eagle Pag. 307. CHAP. XXXI Arrival at Ispahan Their Reception with the Dutch Resident A Relation of the Stability of Anthony Munster who was urged to imbrace Mahometanism his Death and Burial The Manner and Situation of the Dutch Lodge The Situation of Ispahan it 's Greatness Rivers running thrô the same The Aque-duct a mighty work of Schach Abas The Streets of Ispahan Maydan and Basar Fair Arches and Galleries The Sumptuous Mestzid of Schach Abas Dowlet or Schach-Chane the Royal Pallace The Divan-Chane or Court of Justice The Hieram Chane or Palace of the Kings Concubines Allycarpi a Sanctuary or place of Refuge Carawanseras Taverns Cahwae Chane Coffee-Houses Persian Saints and Philosophers Remal and Falkil two sorts of Sooth-sayers Their strange and ridiculous way of presaging The Kaysery or Gallerie of Shops Pag. 313. CHAP. XXXII Taberik Kale the Treasurie of the Kingdom The Suburbs of Ispahan Tziulfa a place where the Armenian Christians have their Residence Tabrisabath Hassenabath Kebrabath so called from Kebber Persians that are still Pagans Tzarbag The Nature of the Persians Property of the Land Celebration of the Epiphany by the Armenian Christians Pag. 321. CHAP. XXXIII The great Civility of Hadsi Biram The Authors Departure out of Ispahan Their incommodous Travelling thrô the Snow Wells and Pits of Water abounding with Fish They are much incommodated in their Travailing The Caravan assailed by Robbers Their Superstitious horrour of Swines Flesh Sepulchre of Schach Solyman's Mother The Sepulchre of Noah his Wife Children and Childrens Children Tzilminar The Pompous Relicts and Ruins of the famous Persepolis and the noble Fort thereof The Statue of Rustan a Persian Champion Pag. 327. CHAP. XXXIV Arrival at Scyras They meet with som Carmelites The base dealings of those of the Caravan The Author meets with the Theef that had pillaged him Mr. Struys well entertained by a French Chirurgeon A Description of Scyras Divers Mestzids or Sepulchres The Pallace of the Chan. Excellent Wine about Scyras Noble Orchards Departure from Scyras The Special Bounty of the Carmelites and the French Chirurgeon Dates plentiful and cheap How the Date-trees are propagated Arrival at Scharim They meet a Caravan Assailed by night of 30 Robbers who kill 5 Men of the Company and at last by a unanimous continuance of the Caravan force them to yield The Robbers beg Quarter which is refused They suffer themselvs to be bound are diversly tortured and dispatched Great plenty of Partridges Pag. 336. CHAP. XXXV The incommodous Travelling over Mountains They com into an Inn or Carawansera where they are well entertained Arrival at Lar. A Description of that Town The Unwholsomness of the Air and wate◠there The Inhabitants given to Hospitality and Lovers of all kinds of Discipline and Science Mummay Kobas a pretious Balsam Remarkable Monuments of Robbers executed Departure from Lar. They meet with another Troop of Robbers whereof 7 are killed They are overtaken by Monsr Kasenbroot Their Arrival a◠Gamron Pag. 344 CHAP. XXXVI A Description of Gamron or Bendar and the Etamology The grea◠Traffic with all Nations Unwholsomness of the Air and Heat at Gamron Palepunshen an unwholsom Drink how made The Earth dry and barren Fertility of Kismisch Of the Inhabitants of Gamron A wonderfu◠Tree growing without the City A◠Indian reputed Saint The best seaso◠for strangers to com and Traffic a◠Gamron Merchandise brought thithe◠by the English The English receiv To with the Schach The Hollanders trad◠without paying Toll The Autho◠falls very sick and in despair of Recovery The kindness and bounty of L. van Akersloot to him He recovers Set sail from Gamron Arrival at Maschate and a Description of that Town The violent Heat about Maschate which renders the Air very unwholsom Their Departure from Maskate Arrival at Batavia The Author hires himself for Sailmaker Comes with 7 Ships before Bantham Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope Pag. 349. CHAP. XXXVII Their Departure from the Cape of Good Hope The Ship Europa taken by the English The English take the Island of St. Helena and 2 Dutch Ships more The Author warns the rest of the Ships Three Dutch Ships scape a scouring Arrival at Ascension Abundance of Tortoises on
four Galleys ready upon all Occasions for Defence of the Havens besides a considerable number more which they have in their Arsenal in good equippage these are often imployed as Auxiliaries for the Venetians against the Turks On the Sea-side stands a Watch-Tower on which by night they set a Beacon and just at the Entrance of the Haven stands a huge piece of Ordnance mounted upon a Carriage continually guarded with a Sentinel The Dukes Person is guarded with a Body of 500 Soldiers who with their Colonel have a place allotted them in the Palace The City is generally well built with stately Houses and magnificent Structures more especially on that side which is seated near the Sea having besides the more eminent Hostels and Public Buildings 30 fair Parish Churches of which that dedicated to St. Laurence claims the priority as Cathedral In the Church dedicated to the H. Eucharist they show'd us a Key made of an Emerald being of the unusual bignes that â—t's worth may not be computed Coming to the Church of St. Bartholomew we saw a handkercheif with which they told us our Saviour wiped the sweat from his face and as they say has done abundance of Miracles The City is very populous their Merchants rich and numerous and their Manufactury also very considerable especially in Velvets there being according to the relation given us above 8000 Looms in the Town so that considering the Magnificency of Building the Riches of her Merchants Commodiousness of Situation and Splendor of her Court and Palace may be reckoned as a Town of the first Magnitude On the 12 of April we set sail directing our course for Velez Malaga where on the 15 we arrived On the 18 we hoised sail and made for Malaga and on the 24 came to cast anchor in the Bay where almost all the Banditti were set ashoar Here we took in a hundred Pipes of Wine with candied Fruits and other Refreshments for the sick On the 29 of May we weighed Anchor and with a brisk gale of Wind reached the Straits mouth on the 2 of Iune When we were past Gibralter we steer'd our Course towards the Salt Islands which was designed for another place of Refreshment from whence we gathered that our Voyage must needs be longer than at first we thought for till then none aboard the ship unless the Officers knew whither we were bound or upon what account we were sent out On the fourth of Iune we met with 9 Turkish Men of War about the 3d. Watch in the night who Hail'd us asking from whence our ship we answered From Genua and asked them From whence they were they made answer From Argiers Our Commander hearing that unwelcome Eccho was not a little alarm'd and could have wish'd himself at a further distance however he resolves to exchange a ball or two with them by break of day and in order thereto gets all in a readiness commands every man to his Post and gave us all the courage he could by his own Example The Corsairs who although better man'd and mounted than we had no great stomach to go so early to breakfast for observing such marks of Courage in our Officers and that they were absolutely resolved to fight'um made all the sail they could and left us On the 14 we pass'd the Flemmish Islands and on the 6 of July we arrived at Boa Vista where we came to Anchor in the Bay On this Island were several of the Banditti who brought us such Provision as they had aboard we took in also ten boats of salt About this Island is such plenty of Fish that at one draught we got 1500 Corcoads and Salmon-Fry Boa Vista is one of those Islands which are called Cabo Verdo Islands having obtained that appellation from it's delectable prospect from the Seaward and lies 7 leagues to the northward of Ilha del Sal and is reckoned to be about 20 leagues in circumference stretched out in length South-east and North-west That part which lies near the sea is all sandy and hilly ground but within altogether montanous and high land On the north end is a long Bank near half a league in length which repelleth the billows of the sea with great violence There are yet besides this several other Foords which are often the occasion of Shipwrack On the South is also another where the Rocks sometimes appear above water and points out towards the East and E. and by North. The best and safest place to come to Anchor in is at the Southwest Point where is a very commodious Road for Ships of the greatest burthen having at lest 16 or 17 fathom Water and a fine sandy ground In this Road we lay at anchor 6 days and then set sail for Majo St. Iago Fuogo and Brava which are the nearest Islands to Boa Vista The Island Majo lies about nine leagues S. S. W. or rather moâ— Westerly from Boa Vista and is the smallest of all the rest being about 7 leagues round Within land are several steep hills and on the North a Plain about a league in breadth from whence reaches out a long Bank towards the North-east and another towards the West which cause impetuous Breaches of the Sea and consequently great danger for Ships that sail that way The Island is almost round in circumference having its breadth and length almost equal and is full of small Capes or Promontories which make so many Inlets The common Road belonging to this Island is on the South-west Coast where you have 15 and 16 fathom Water and a sandy ground having the Western point of the Island at N. and by W. and another Point at E. S. E. and the South end of St. Iago S. W. On the North side of the Island behind a litle black Cape lies a small Bay or Road for Anchorage at 5 or 6 fathom water and upon the lowest point on the East is a Village of 10 or 12 houses This Island is very rocky high and dry having litle grass upon it but what grows in the clefts of the Rocks It is also very barren of Fruit neither Lemmons nor Oranges will like there nor no other fruit whatsoever unles sigs and those by reason of the drought of the Season and Ground seldom ever come to maturity or return to profit There are in this Island some Cotton-trees and good plenty of Goats so that there are many thousands of those Hides transported yearly from hence There are also some wild Horses Kine and Asses good plenty of Fowl as Patridge Heath-hens Bustards Wild-geese and other Fowl not known with us in Europe There are also many Saltpans on this Island where the Salt by the Ground Water and the Ingress of the Sea with the help of the Sun is well concreted yet is somewhat too yellow in colour The Inhabitants are a mixt folk of Negros and others who follow Goat hunting using Wolves in stead of Dogs Some also follow the
Divertisements of Hunting Fishing and Fowling as also ranging the woods which we found stored with many sorts of Fruit. Madagascar is distant from the Coast of Cefale about 110 Leagues and 44 from Mosambique It lies in length Northeast and Southwest reaching from about 12 degr to 26 Southerly Latitude being about 220 Dutch leagues in length and 70 in breadth and consequently reputed the largest Island in the whole World It is also divided into several Provinces and Dominions which are mostly bounded and severed from each other by Rivers This Island is very fertile and affoards great plenty of Grain as Wheat or Mais and Barly as also Pulse as Lentils Pease Beans of several kinds They have also abundance of Water Melons Ananas Bananas and other unknown Plants and Roots The Trees are loaden with Oranges Lemons Pome-Citrons and two kinds oâ— Pomegranates to wit a sweet and a sour as also delicate Pears Figs Almonds c. Besides these Fruits they have several strange Roots that may be used for Diet which they call Ouviharen Schambri Caâ—bares Ouvifoutty Offehe Mavondre Damborn and others which cannot call to mind at present It affoards also very rich Honey variety of Gums Medicinal Balsams Oils Roots and Herbs nor maâ— we ommit the commemoration of its ' rich Mines and variety oâ— Mettals though the best it affoards beyond other Places is Steel Thâ— Gold which is digged here is much baser than that of Peru the Ounâ— not valuing above ten Crowns Neither is this Island without Precâ—ous stones as Topaz Amethyst Emerald Sapphire Jacynth Jaspar Agath with Blood Stones and others It abound with Beasts as Kine tame and wilde Goats which have young times a year the Sheep are very fat their tails weighing some â— pound a piece Swine they have also both tame and wild whoâ— flesh whether hung or pickled is far better then that which â— have in Europe There is also a kind of wild Swine that thâ— Inhabitants call Tendrak which they hold for a great delâ—cacy The same beast sleeps six moneths in the year in which time she casts her Prickles as Hedge-hogs do which are also the in great abundance The Dogs of this Island are for the most paâ— litle shore-snouted and stump-ear'd Apes and Monkeys run â— great troops some times 50 60 or 100 together of which theâ— are several kinds Those that are white are the most cruel anâ— hardest to catch or tame Another sort there are which are grey anâ— not so big as the white which are more tame and flexible these the often take by wiles and teach them several practical and artificâ— exercises There are besides these another kind of white Apeâ— that go almost right over end and are so lecherous that even thâ— Women in that place cannot be secure for them which they raviâ— if they find an opportunity one holding her till another has peâ—form'd his Task whom when they have had their will the sometimes rend in pieces But there is a kind of Gray Apes which are held in most esteem having eies like fire and are very wiâ— and unapt to be tamed and some so savage that they will rather starve than be fed out of hand There are also many Squirrels Wesels and Civet Cats They are likewise annoyed with many sorts of venemous Creatures and Vermin as Scorpions Spiders Wasps and Millepedes which are here so horribly fell that the party stung falls immediately into a swound This Island is inhabited both by Whites and Negros the former having long and lank hair the latter a litle curled and handsom bodied There are also a sort of tawny People that are not so well civiliz'd as the rest letting their hair and beards grow which the other for the most part shave They are in general a treacherous and fraudulent people prone to Thievery and greedy of Revenge which they esteem a laudable vertue and deem him a man of merit who knows how to quit himself handsomly in vindication of a Quarrel but on the contrary he that puts up an affront or injury done him is held in great contempt and stigmatiz'd for a Coward They are by nature very sluggish and inclined to Sloth much given to Dancing and Singging These that are willing to take upon them any hard Imployment or laborious exercise are such as follow Husbandry Smiths Carpenters Fullers Spinners Weevers Fishers and Fowlers Their Smiths have a good way to temper Iron and Steel and are very active in making Knives Javelins Pile-heads and Plyers to pull up hair by the roots They have also Silversmiths but such as hardly deserve the naming Their Houses are but little wooden Tabernacles of one story high and a firm Cieling yet at the Inauguration of those Cottages they make sumptuous Banquets So soon as the House is completed the Owner invites all his Relations and Allies with other acquaintance to the said House where they are entertained in splendid manner Yet this Treat is not at all chargeable to him but rather an advantageous mean for there is not any of these Guests who dare make his appearance without some Present which he is to bring with him as if it were at a VVestmerland wedding Some bring Gold Silver or Steel some great Bowls with Corn or perhaps Moveables and Furniture for the House others Oxen Sheep or other Belly-timber So that in brief none ever comes empty-handed by which means the Builder has not only the Expences of his Feast reimburs'd but sometimes more than what he has laid out in such a stupendious Fabric These Encaenia or Feasts Dedicatory do usually hold for some days together during which time they live an Epicuraean life in Luxury and Riot Dancing Singing and Playing Most of their House furniture is what properly belongs to the Kitchin but as for Table Stools Benches Table-cloth Napkins Beds and Cushions they never use any and when they eat sit down humbly upon a Mat. The Common People go almost naked but these of the best rank are aparreled in different vestures to distinguish the sexes the men wearing Breaches which reach from the midle to the Calf of the leg and from the midle upward a Cotton cloth almost like a Scotch Plad thrown carelesly about their shoulders girded about the middle with a Surcingle The Women wear a Garb with and without sleeves demitted to the knees having also a kind of Drawers with a Girdle about the body and sometimes a litle mantle thrown about their Shoulders Their Cloths are mostly of Cotton Bombast and Silk of various Colours garnished with loops of Silk which is of another colour than the Garment it self Both men and women go bare-headed and barefoot except one sort whereof the Man wears a Cap something resembling that of a Jesuit and the Woman a Hood made after the form of a Pyramid which comes down to the shoulders Their Marriages are generally performed without many Ceremonies and Polygamy allowed every man taking
my Sister but now Thou inhuman Tyrant it is thy will it should be so I scorn although I were sure of enjoyment to desire thy pardon that thou shouldst not hope for the lest pity from the Hands of them that shall revenge my Blood in after times With these and the like words he seemed to declare his Innocency yet uttered some expressions which contradicted those Protestations that probably were to only in spite of the King Thus was the last of the former Kings race extirpated except one Daughter which was not capable of doing any thing against the Interest of the present King CHAP. X. The proud and blasphemous Titles of the King of Siam The great Preparations used to asswage the Waters of the Ganges YOu have heard by what we have related in the former Chapter with how much power and aw the king of Siam rules It will further appear how well he knows it by the proud swelling Title he assumes to himself two of which were presented me by a Mandarâ—n and I hope will not seem impertinent to insert here although the Reader may be pleas'd to take notice that the Idiom of their Tongue is so barbarous that it will hardly bear sence when rendred howeveâ— we shall give it Word for Word THE Alliance written with letters of fine Gold being full of God-like glory The most Excellent containiâ— all wise Sciences The most happy which is not in the VVoâ— among men The Best and most Certain that is in Heaveâ— Earth and Hell The greatest Sweet and friendly Roâ— word VVhose powerfull-sounding Properties and glorioâ— Fame range through the VVorld as if the Dead weâ—â— raised by a God-like power and wonderfully purged from Ghostly and Corporal Corruption At this both Spirituâ—â— and Secular men admire with a special Joy whereas â— Dignity may be herewith Compared Proceeding from friendly illustrious inconquerable most mighty and mâ— high Lord and a Royal Crown of Gold adorned with nine sorts of Precious Stones The Greatest Clearest and most God-like Lord of unblameable Souls The most Holy seeing every where and Protecting Soveraign of the City Judia whose many Streets and open Gates are throng'd by Troops of Men. VVhich is the chief Metropolis of the whole VVorld The Royal Throne of the Earth that is adorn'd with nine sorts of Stones and most pleasant Valleys He who Guides the Rains of the VVorld and has a house more than the Gods of fine Gold and of Precious Stones they the Godlike Lords of Thrones of fine Gold the VVhite Red and Round-tayl'd Elephant which Excellent Creatures are the Cheifest of the nine sorts of Gods To none hath the Divine Lord given in whose hand is the victorious sword who is like the fiery-Armed God of Battails to the most Illustrious The second is as as blasphemous as the first though hardly swells so far out of Sence THE highest Paducco Syry Sultan Nelmonam welgaca Nelmochadin Magiviitha Jouken der eauten lillaula fylan King of the whole world who makes the VVater rise and flow A King that is like a God and shines like the Sun at noon day A King that gives a glance like the Moon when it is at full Elected of God to be worthy as the North-star being of the Race and offspring of the great Alexander with a great Vnderstanding as a round Orb that tumbles hither and thither able to guess at the Depth of the great Sea A King that hath amended all the Funerals of the departed Saints and is as righteous as God and of such power that all the VVorld may come and shelter under his VVings A King that doth right in all things as the Kings of old have don A King more liberal the all Kings A King that hath many Mines of Gold that God hath lent him who hath built Temples half Gold and half Brass sitting upon a Throne of pure Gold and of all sorts oâ— Precious stones A King of the white Elephant which Elephant is the king of all Elephants efore whom many Thousands of other Elephants must bow and fall upon theâ— knees He whose eies shine like the Morning-star A kinâ— that hath Elephants with four Teeth Red Purple and Piâ— Elephants ay and a Buytenaques Elephant for whicâ— God has given him many and divers sorts of Apparâ— wrought with most fine Gold enobled with many Precioâ— stones and besides these so many Elephants us'd in Battel hâ—ving Harnesses of Iron their teeth tipt with teel and the Harnesses laid ore with shining Brass A King that has maâ— Hundred Horses whose Trappings are wrought with fiâ— Gold and adorned with Precious stones of every sort that aâ— found in the Vniversal VVorld where the Sun shines anâ— those shod with fine Gold Besides so many Hundred Horses that are used in VVar of every kind A King who has all Emperours Kings Princes and Soveraigns in the whole VVorld from the Rising to the Going down of the Sun under Subjection and such as can obtain his Favour are by him promoted to great Honour but on the Contrary such as revolt he burns with fire A King who can show the Power of God and what ever God has made And so by this time I hope you have heard enough of a King of Elephants and Horses though not a Word of his Asses in this Instrument called a Title and thereby perceive the Pride and Folly of this unpolish'd Potentate where we shall leave him and take a walk towards the Ganges The River of Siam is a branch of the famous Ganges and ebbs and â—ws at the same time with that noble River When it is at highest and â—ady to fall of it self according to it 's natural Recourse at a certain time of the Year as doth also the Nile the King imbarks himself in a Galley which is within and without so richly Gilded that it seems to be all of massy Gold Within the same is a Throne of solid Gold upon which the King sits having a Canopy richly set with Pearls â—monds and other Precious Stones About him sit the greatest of 〈◊〉 Mandorins on Chairs suitable to their Quality and on his left hand â—he Chief of the Bonzi in his Hierarchical Garb. On the Galleries of this Galley sit several Musicians which are answered by the inferiour Mandorins and Plebeïans who are placed all along the Banks with Musical Instruments and Flags of an infinite number The Imperial Galley is followed with a Retinue of some Thousands of smaller Shipping and Yachts When the King is come to the place where the Ceremony is usually performed he steps out into a Prawe where the High Priest delivers him a golden sword upon his knees After the repetition of some formal words he beats the Water three times and commands it with a God-like Authority to fall down and so returns into the Galley upon which all they that are on the Banks faâ— down flat upon the ground and shout And thus the blind People who have
not the Benefit of Chronicle or Antiquity and ignorant 〈◊〉 the course of Nature the hand-maid of God do really take it for miracle effected by their Pagan Sovereign CHAP. XI Departure from Siam They take a Junk The Cambodiers put in a Ship with rudder or sails Arrival at Formosa The Junk and all the men cast awaâ— Description of Formosa with an account of its Products and the Nature of â— Inhabitants as also their Houses Habit and Customes OUr Ship having now taken in her whole Carga we had all oâ— to come aboard Our Loading was most Bucks-hides Sanâ—wood and Amrack which is a kind of Colour used by the Iaponeâ— in their Cabinet-work for Vernishing and on the 12 of April we set Sâ— directing our Course for Tojovan or Formosa About the Pracel banks we descried a Iunk making toward us full Sail having Dutch Colours aloft which made us suspect to be a Pyrat and thereupon our master resolved to throw sâ— Goods over-board and put himself in a Fighting-Posture But â— we came nearer to the said Junk we saw that it was a Merchant-â— and not so well man'd and mounted as we Coming to hail him Commander bad him come aboard and show his Pass but he 〈◊〉 answer that his Champan was in pieces and unfit to put out whereuâ— the Commander put forth the Shallop well man'd and arm'd to aboard him and demand his Pass but found that he had none bâ— a Cambodier and loaden with contrabanded Goods we there took him as Prize His Loading did also mostly consist in Hâ— Hides Sanders and Amrak as ours did The men aboard her â— mostly Cambodiers and Chineeses which Capt. Fayer for that was Commanders name put all into the Champan that notwithstandâ— their evasion was not leaky allowing them neither Sail nor Râ—der so that without all controversy they were lost it being then leagues from any coast nor could we ever hear what became of theâ— On the 10 th of May we arrived safely at the Island of Formosa and anchored before the Fort Zelandia where Peter over 't Water was then Governor As we sailed in at the Bay we were surprized with a great Wind insomuch that the Prize we had taken ran upon a seat of Rocks which almost conjoyn or as it were imbrace the Bay like that at Rhodes in the Levant made by Art on which was erected the Image of Apollo so that these are with a gale of Wind somewhat stiffer than ordinary almost unavoidable The Junk broke all in pieces and the men were all lost save 3 Hollanders who saved themselves upon Planks amongst those that were lost were 7 Hollanders the rest Chineezes being about 20 in number The Island Formosa lies almost directly under the Tropic of Cancer â—its nombril or Center being exactly 23 degr Northern latitude â—eaching in a stretch from it's southern Cape which is in 21 degr to the â—weel or Northen Promontory in 25 and is computed to be about 130 Dutch Leagues in circumference facing the coast of Fokien and â—ana Round about this Island are taken abundance of Fish especially Harders which are somewhat bigger than a Haddock This â—ish they salt like Cod and send it for China where it is had in great â—eem The Row of this fish is also held for a great delicacy among â— Chineezes when pickled being red and lies close and round in thin skin which naturally grows about it The Chineezes us'd hereâ—ofore to give the Tenth Fish to the Company for their Liberty to â—sh on the Coasts of this Island Formosa is a very fruitfull Island but lies untill'd the Inhabitants â—ng for the most part a lazy People not much unlike the Spaniards â—er willing to starve than work The most fruitfull part is at present â—der the Jurisdiction of the King of Midag It abounds with Rice â—heat Barley Kaylang Masquinades as also Ginger and Sugar â—ere are many sorts of Trees and Fruit in great abundance as Oâ—anges Lemmons Citrons Pomegranates Guigavas Perang and â—ther Fruits not known in Europe and some only Proper to this Isle which I could never see either in Europe Asia or Affrica as Moupellos and Crambrods Melons or Musk-millions are here so plentiful and delicious that I have been cloyed barely with looking at them when they were cut up besides Water-milions and Pompions which are also of a very good tast and Juycy They have besides many kinds of Plants and Herbs as CABBAGE Hartichoaks c. Severâ— rich and medicinal Roots and Seeds as Ananasses China-Rock Potatos not much unlike ours Ubes Kadiang and Fakkafocas Kadjâ— is a litle green seed almost like that of Coriander which they boyl anâ— pickle for a Sauce for fresh Fish and gives it an admirable good reliâ— Fokkafokas has the Shape of a Pear or Quince but 3 times as big anâ— grows near the ground like a Pompion above it is smooth like glâ— and below of a purple and whitish colour this they boil with Beâ— and Pork as we do Turnips in Holland There are some sheep in â— Island but not very many Harts and Roes there are abundance sometimes 2 or 3 Thousand in a Flock together Wild-goats â— Swine which are very terrible and noxious to Travellers that go aâ— or unarm'd some they have also tame Beasts of Prey do much anâ— the Inhabitants that they dare not adventure themselves far with Land as Tygres Leopards Bears c. Apes and Monkeys tâ— have which are generally litle There is a certain Creature on â— Island which the Hollanders call Den Duyvel van TAJOâ— that is The Devil of Formosa Being about 2 foot long and 5 in broad upon the back with scales all over the body it has four with sharp claws a sharp long head and a tail thick at the râ— and smaller towards the end like a Crocodil This litle beast feeds â— upon Pismires which he catches by laying his Tongue upon a â— where they come to feed upon a slimy matter that runs out oâ— mouth and that holds them so fast that they cannot get off agâ— When he thinks that he has enough he draws in his tongue and vours them It cannot do any harm unless to the Ants which aâ— natural food but if he see a man come towards him either runs the Earth or rolls himself in like a Hedghog so that to call Devil seems a great improperty This Great Description of a â— Creature we thought not altogether impertinent because it Creature proper only to this Island Formosa affoards all kinds of Fâ— which other Islands in the East have except Parrots And were itâ— for the great annoyance of Serpents Scorpions Millipedes Lizzaâ— and other vermin it were a very delightsom Land being in a tâ—rable good Climat and blessed with a most wholsom Air. As to the Frame and Stature of the Natives we cannot give any general Description since those vary according to the plâ— they inhabit Their men are mostly well
had several times attempted to run away but was ever taken and had neither Nose nor Ears left him This woful Praecedent daunted me so that I had no great stomach to try but one day above the rest he gave me good encouragement saying Prethee Brother Which is best To live in perpetual Slavery or Doe what you can to make your Escape Put the case it should be fruitless and we should be taken I shall be sure to have the hardest measure but you only a hundred stroaks on the foot at worst 'T is true they have threatned to burn me if ever I run away again and am caught but I will rather dy so than to live all my days under the lash of those unreasonable Hell-Hounds and to be tormented with a Thousand Plagues after the manner you see Come come resolve Faint heart never won fair Lady and Nothing venture nothing have What is there in the VVorld that may be praeferred before a Golden Freedom By these and many other reasons he moved me to hazard to matter The Moscovian or Russ who was a subtile Impostor and had an excellent hand at any kind of Roguery had been some time before at Constantinople where he had bought a File this he had stitch'd up in his Coat and carried always a litle Tinder-box and a Watch-light about him to use in time of occasion Having now for the space of 6 Weeks endured this wofull state we found an Opportunity to rid our selvs of that miserable Slavery for being now left to our Liberty to fetch Water for our selves my Camrade and I that were chain'd together went farther within Land than we needed and so returned honestly back to the Galley and that for 2 or 3 times together the better to prevent suspicion till at last we ran so far out of sight that we thought our Enterprize half won The night coming on it began to rain and we to shelter our selvs crept into a cave where my Mate struck fire and lighted his Wax-candle that we might see to file and after a litle labour got our selves loose The night in regard it was dark favour'd us mainly so that we came to the strand an hour before break of Day which we saw full of Tents But being a very rainy night and stormy weather the Sentinels did not attend their Posts so that we passed through the middest of them without any examination and betook our selves to swimming before it was observ'd But it was not long before they began to suspect something or other for that Water is very salt and has this property that with the lest motion or troubling it burns like fire Hereupon they shot at us by guess and random with the Long-bow for by reason of the Rain they could not use their Fire-arms so that the Arrows came pelting about our ears and sometimes grazing upon the Water till at last one hit the Russ directly upon the buttock However he swom so long with it till we were out of shot but when I would have pulled it out the poor caitiff began to yell out most miserably crying Let alone let alone 't is an Arrow with a wicker And thus he was fain to swim for two Leagues together before we came to the Venetian Armade and had the stream heavy on our side When we came to the Armade we were taken into the Ship Abrahams Offering where the Russ had the Arrow drawn out of his buttock which had pierced him to the very bone and put him to a miserable torture before it was drawn out being a Harpoon with 8 wickers However he was by the diligence of an able Chirurgeon in a short time cured of his Wound and we thanked God for his delivery of us from the hands of those merciless Tyrants preserving us through the dangerous floods and bringing us to a Christian People CHAP. IV. The fugitive Slaves brought before the General The manner of their Encouraging their Men. Number of the Venetian Ships and Galleys Names of the Commanders and Chieftains The Malteezes joyn with the Armade The Turkish Fleet sail up endeavour to break through are hindred by the Malteezes The Turks throw up two Batteries A dreadfull Engagement and playing off the Cannon for three days together The Turks begin to settle The Stability and valour of the Venetians The Turks loose their Courage ON the 24 of Iune by break of day we got the Armade in manner as aforesaid and about 8 a clock I was brought before the General to whom I signified what had passed as to my particular concernment and gave him what Intelligence I could from the Turkish Fleet who intended that day to fall down had already reckoned the day their own and made a Dividend among themselves of the Ships Spoil and Slaves for which reason the Officers were very eager and indeavored to hasten the Expedition The General received me kindly thanked me for the Information ordered us each 50 Crowns and so dismissed us So soon as we were come out of the Generals presence he ordered a Proclamation to be proclaimed and affixed to the Mast of every Ship and Galley That every privat person should freely enjoy what they could get by plundering and a strict Interdiction was sent to the respective Officers not to deprive or molest them upon pain of Death which was no small incouragement to the Marriners and privat Soldiery At first the Venetians were very weak but afterward by the joyning of the Maltheezes and some Dutch they were increas'd to 28 Ships of War 24 Galleys and 7 Galeasses Their Officers were as follow Of the Head-Officers and Commanders in the Venetian Armade as they were ingaged against the Turks Anno 1656 Lorenzo Marcello GENERAL Barbaro Badoer PROVEDITOR of the ARMADE Joseppo Morosini ADMIRAL of the GALEASSES Antonio Barbaro Captain of the Gulf. Zuanni Marcello LIEUTENANT GENERAL and Captain of a Galeass The Heads or Prime Officers of the Galeasses were Alvise Foscari Anthonio Priuli Marco Riva Alvise Bataglia and Giacomo Loredan Captains of Galleys Pietro Contarini ADMIRAL M. Antonio Pasquaglio Pietro Quirini Giacomo Semiticolo Nicholo Muazzo Dionisio Disani Zorzi di Mezo Zuanni Venier Francesco Vizzaemano Nicholo Colergi Aurelio Longo Alviso Basso Giacomo Polani Francisco di Mezo Pietro Barozzi Zorzi Mengano Angelo Muazzo Alessandro Dondolo Thomaso Fradello Z. Giacomo Quirini Herolamo Pesaro Alvize Soscarini Guglielmo Avogrado Of the Ships of Warr the Head-Officers were Marco Bembo ADMIRAL Zuanni Contarini VICE-ADMIRAL Gerolamo Malepiero RERE-ADMIRAL Captains of Men of War Z. Andora Bragadina Barnardo Bragadino Nicolo Dona. Agostino Marcello Vincenzo Quirini Gerolamo Loredano Marco Barberigo Nicolo Zane Zuanni Corner Faustino Riva Zorzi Zancarat Francesco Basadono Francesco Pisani Bernardin Vizzamano Voluntiers without Pay Francesco Quirini Voluntiers without Pay Alessandro Zane Great Personages and Voluntiers The Prince of Parma Zuanni Anthonio Muazzo a youth of 13 Years Andrea Muazzo aged 12 Years Dominico Anthonio Semiticolo Marco Zorzi Pietro
well provided with all kinds of Ammonition and Cannon which they cast themselves There are besides these Sconces several other Fortifications and inferior Forts Seated on high Rocks and Walls proportionable to the other encompassed also with very deep Ditches which receive their Water from the Sea Corfu is also of it self very strong and divided into 3 several Wards as Spileo Urio nuovo and Spianato The high Fortifications have no Fountain Water that is good and are therefore fain to make use of Rain Water which they receive and keep in cisterns and pits like those of Amsterdam but without the Walls of Corfu is a certain fountain or Well which they call Cardacchio that affoards good Water and very clear Upon this Island stand 68 Villages and Hamlets all reasonably well peopl'd The Venetian Garrison as it then appeared by their Muster-roll consisted of 400 light Horse and 900 Infantry The Haven is very fair and covenient and comes to the middle of the Island on that side which faces the main Continent On the other side lies Butriato a noted place for Fishing On this Island is much Bottarge made which is a Dish prepared of the Roes of Sturgeon salted dried and for the longer and better preservation thereof dipt in Wax Here is also much Oil of Olives or Oleum omphacinum made and the Vine well cultivated It is also very fruitfull affoarding plenty of Oranges Lemmons Citrons c. besides Honey Wax and Salt for which Commodities this Island is very famous abroad From Corfu we set sail for Cephalonia where there is only one small City raised on a high ground at the South-end of the Island and well fortified but the Haven thereto belonging is large and convenient There appear the Ruins of three other Cities which are said to be dismantled upon the continual Jarrs of the Inhabitants amongst themselves and at length reduced to such a poor remnant Besides this City is a litle Fort in which they repose no small trust It is situated in the latitude of 38 degr and 29 min. and is almost of a triangular form The East-end faces the Cape of Ciarenzo a Promontory of Morea or Peleponessus The North-point Capo Guiscardo confronts with Staumara and the west-angle or Capo Sidro looks toward the main Continent of Affrica Between this angle and Ciarenza which lies to the South-west is a large Bay making a fit Harbour not far from the City Cephalonia called Argoftoli where a great number of Ships may very commodiously ride at anchor At the entrance of this Gulf is a small Island called Guardiana which is fortified with a little Moot or Castelet which they call Nasso They have great scarcity of fresh or spring Water in this Island which is nevertheless of a rich and fat Soil and good pasturage for Sheep which there abound It produceth also vast quantities of Grain Wine Oil Manna Wax Honey Flax and Silk besides the great plenty of Currans which is the Staple-Commoditie of the Land CHAP. VIII The Author's arrival at Sante or Xante It 's admirable Strength Villages and great Scarcity of fresh Water Their Dough for bread kneaded with Wine in stead of Water Arrival at Cerigo Situation of that Island Reliques of the Temple of Venus Arrival at Candia with it's Situation A Description of the Citie as to it's Strength Inhabitants the most eminent Buildings and Churches Climat Soil Vintage Fruits Vegetables Cattel Fowl Plenty of Silk and other Commodities as also the modern Habit and Attire of the Candians A Description of Standia The famous Fight between Lazaro Mocenigo and the Tributary Auxiliaries of Argiers Tripoli Theunis and Zoëli The Fort of Zouaschi taken in by the Proveditor Mocenigo The Turks attacque Tenedos but in vain The Turkish Armada come out of the Dardanelli The Beginning of the Ingagement The Turkish Emperour comes with an Army of 20000 Horse and 80000 Foot down to the shore where from a high Tent he sees ' the Ingagement The Turks loose their Posts and Sail off The incomparable valour of Mocenigo and Bembo who are unluckily killd by the fall of a Sail yard Their Galley blown up with 400 Men. The Loss and Gains on both sides THe Proveditor which we had aboard not willing to loose much time made but short delay at Cephalonia for he had not much time to spend according to his Order and Instructions to go to the Armade wherefore after a short aboad we set Sail and steer'd away for Xante Xante is an Island lying in the latitude of 38 degr about 13 English leagues from Cephalonia On this Island is a City conteining about 4000 Houses or rather Cottages without chimneys that they say is by reason of frequent Earthquakes of which they are in daily jeopardy but the Muniments as well in respect of Site as Strength are very considerable for the Cittadel is built upon a high Hill and what by Nature and what by Art seems to be almost inaccessible well provided also with Ordnance and Ammunition of War suitable On this Island are several Capes the most eminent whereof are Capo del Guardo on the South and Capo de Tiri on the East between which two Capes lies a Commodious Harbour called Porto de Chietto which has a good Road for Anchorage at 8 fathom Water Xante has 45 Villages and Hamlets whereof the most principal lie toward the Sea to wit St. Chietto Littachia Pigalachia Sculicado Saint Nicholo and Natte The last of these has a Harbour fit to receive 100 Galleys In the hilly part of the Island are several Convents Cloysters and Religious Houses of the Greek Church who have also a Bishop here as well as the Romanists but the Greeks exceed the Italians in number and consequently have their Religion in greater splendour You are no sooner come ashoar but you are met by a parcel of Iews who shall ask you if you have any money to change These deal in any contemptible Traffic but especially in Slaves when any Turkish Saiks or other Shipping is brought up by English French or Hollanders Xante is of a very fertile Soil and fruitfull in nothing inferiour to Cephalonia yet exceeds it in Quality and Plenty of Wine but yet scarcer of Water insomuch that the Inhabitants are sometimes constrained to knead their Dough with Wine whereof they make their Bread Here is also prepared the delicate Botarges especially in Iuly and August when the Sturgeon comes from the Archipelago The Land is very populous and all go armed so that when the Turkish Corsairs send some men ashoar to take Slaves do frequently change Fates with them and for that end the Venetians maintain 70 or 80 Horse day and night to ride about the Coast We also brought hither some new Infantry to relieve the old From Xante we sail'd to Cerigo which lies in 36 degr and 45 min. directly over against Capo Saint Angelo before the Gulf of Colochino on the other side it has
told them that I had made my escape by night in a Barque which nevertheless would not pacifie them till they had dawbed the Captain in the Fist which closed his Eies and shut his Mouth effectually So soon as the Brigantines were out of sight the Greeks fearing some trouble might ensue brought me with a Barque to Embro where the Venetian Fleet lay and gave me my Provision aboard with me which I had bought for 32 Rix-dollars Upon my arrival the Commander gave them 2 Pieces of eight for their pains and glad he was to receive me so and they no less joyfull to be rid of me for the Turks had already taken a Civil Magistrate of the Greeks into custody with his Son being but a child who might upon my being found there after they had denied me have had hard mesure and they nevertheless forced to deliver me up at last which if they had the Admiral of the Venetians would have plundered the Town and taken them all for Slaves so that these poor People are in a worse and a more pitifull state under both than they would be if they were entirely under one While we lay before Embro the Fleet was divided into two parts and sent for the respective Islands to get in the Contributions the one part went for Stampalia or Astypalaea which is one of the Cyclades and from thence to Nicsia an Island about 7 Dutch leagues in length and as many in breadth for it is almost four Square the North-side is montanous but towards the South flat and arable On this Island are several Reliques of Gentilism and Idolatry and amongst those a famous Temple in times past sacred to Apollo now dedicate to S. Salvador On the South we saw the Ruins of another Temple built also to the Honour of Apollo The Inhabitants are Greeks Iews and Turks who are sedulous Planters and Cultivaters of the Vine the land answering their Industry with a fertile Soil The City which is called also by the name of Nicsia lies on the East-side of the Island having a very fair and commodious Haven presenting for all Winds and fit to contain Ships of the greatest burthen Here is found a kind of black stone which is held in great esteem not much unlike the vulgar Touch-stone called by the Italians Smeriglio In our Course through the Aegean Sea we touched at Parus Lero Embroa Psyra and visited Metellino where I had been the year before and was transported thence to the Venetian Armada in a Candian Tartan making by the way a good booty as you will find more amply related in Pag. 76 seqq but now I found better opportunity and leisure to take notice of the Island than before Metellino lies in 48 degr near the main Continent of Greece and from the nearest point hardly 3 English leagues distant The City which also bears the same name is situated on the North-west side of the Island fortified with a Castle that commands 2 Havens and is called Moliva There are besides this several strong Holds and fortified Places throughout the whole Island The South-and North-sides are Champain Land but the East and West for the most part hilly and montanous affoarding rich Quarries of white and black Marble and about the Center of the Land it is woody and mostly grown over with Cypres Trees The arable part of the Land which is tilled is of a good Soil and affoards plenty of Corn of which they make two Sorts of bread the one they call Trachana and the other Bouchourt either of which is more durable than our Ship Biscake They make an excellent sort of red Wine which the Turks notwithstanding the voice of their Alchoran greatly covet and swallow when they can have it The Pastures swarm with all kinds of Cattel both great and small in which by reason of their very great abundance they hold commerce with the Islands of the Aegean Sea but especially in a breed of small Horse they have which are in good esteem abroad After we had done our affairs at Mytilene we went for great Scio but being by the way warned of some Fishermen that the Turks had landed a great number of Soldiery there we sail'd past the Island and put in at S. Giorgio di Scyro which is a small Island lying in 47 degr 23 min. being almost of a triangular form where the Inhabitants follow the Vineyard Leaving Scyro we sail'd directly for Delos which now for the most part goes by the name of Sdilly and lies in the latitude of 47 degr The Island is at present of no great note only that it is visited by the curious in Antiquities Here we found many Ruins of Temples and Altars sacred to Heathenish Deities and the Image of Apollo which is in two pieces whereof as the Greeks told us the English saw'd off the Head and carried it away But so much as remains of it I have drawn as may be seen in the Print There appear yet the Ruins of 3 Temples more to wit of Apollo Minerva and Diana besides several pieces of Marble and Alabastre in various figures of Animals as Lions Leopards and the like Here are also many Quarries of a rich sort of Marble and various kinds of Alabastre Provision may be had at very easy rates Hares and Coneys are for their plenty held in disesteem by the Inhabitants Agriculture is a thing quite out of use but the greatest profit it yields the Venetians is the conveniency of the Haven which serves them for a Rendevouz Between Delos and Andros lies the Island Tenos where there is a Castle built upon a high Hill that seems of it self sufficient enough to defend the whole Island In the year 1656 was the greatest part of this Castle blown up with its own Powder by Lightning at what time I was in the Fleet not far from Delos and saw it I beleeve also that a great part of this Island is overflown with the Inundation of the Sea as Zantorini or rather sunk for when we came to anchor at 26 fathom Water we wrought all we could to weigh but thought verily that the Cable would break before any anchor would loose at last it was resolved to try once more for the last and if it would not then come to cut the Cable but at last the anchor came bringing a great peece of a Wall with it In the Gentile age was a Bath at Tenos where every one of what rank or quality soever he was must wash himself or otherwise it was not lawfull for him to enter the Temples of Apollo Minerva or Diana Tenos is of it self fruitfull enough and would produce more grain than indeed it does if the Inhabitants were inclined to that Tillage but they find more profit in Silk having large Woods of Mulbeery Trees so that this Island is the chief place for Silk Stockings in the Levant After we had staid a few daies at Tenos we set
rung and that only upon Festival days or when any Forreign Prince or Minister of State desires it When they intend to do it at any extraordinary time they make proclamation through the Town by which warning the Citizens take down all the Glasses and Earthen Ware for it makes all tremble and shake There are besides the Imperial Court several other spacious Palaces for the Bojars or Nobility as also for the Spiritual Lords amongst which that of the Patriarch is the most magnificent Without Kitay-gorod directly before the Palace of the Czar is one of the fairest Churches I must neds say that I have seen in all my Travels which is built after the model of the Temple of Ierusalem from whence it has that Name Near unto this church is the great Market having Shops of all Wares and Merchandises that may be imagined but every Shopkeeper has his own Row or Street so that people of one Dealing have all their Shops together and by themselves In this part of the City dwell likewise the ablest Merchants Kneesen and other Persons of note who dwell in stone houses to preserve their Goods if a Fire should happen Zaar-gorod which is the second part of Moscou encompasseth Kitay-gorod almost in the form of a Crescent which is also environed with a huge Wall which they call Biela Stenna that is The white Wall Zaar-gorod is divided into two parts by the River Neglina which runs thro the midst of it Here is also a famous Founding-House for casting great Bells and Ordnance as also the Emperours stable Near the River is a Beast-market and a famous Butchery or Flesh-shambles where you find not only Beef Veal Mutton Pork Lamb Venison c. but also Horse-flesh to sell Corn Meal Butter Cheese and other Provision is here good cheap and very plentiful The Third City which is Skorodom embraces Czar-gorod on the East North and West-sides likewise in the form of a Crescent In this City or Ward is the House-market where at a low price you may buy a House of what greatness you please These Houses are made of Square pieces of Timber notch'd and let into each other which when you have bought you can disjoint and bring it where you list upon Sledges that amongst many inconveniencies has this one Conveniency that if a Citizen has his House burn'd he may be every day supplied with a new which considering the old is brought to Ashes may without much cost be placed where the other stood whereas on the contrary we are often forced to stay sometimes a year or more before the Rubbish be taken away and a convenient House built in lieu of the old Besides that conveniency they have another which is that at what time any House happens to take fire and any probable danger of breaking out the Neighbours upon timely notice have their Houses taken in pieces and removed as if they were but Tents The fourth and last Wike is Strelitza Slowoda which reaches out toward the South over the River Moscqua and towards the Tartarian Countrey Here is the placc where the Soldatesque are inquarter'd which they call Strelitzen from whence this Part of Moscou has it's name It is very well fortified with Bulwarks and other Fortifications The number of the Houses within the four Divisions and the Suburbs according to their computation are said to be about 95000 the Palace and all its appendencies excluded The Churches and Cloysters wherein they preach are 1700. Amongst this great number of Dwelling-houses you find few or none but what are altogether of Wood except some Merchants Houses in Kitay-gorod who as we have already said build mostly of Stone for the better security of their Goods They use no Chimneys as we do for fires but great Cackels or rather Ovens made altogether of stone which sometimes being over heated or by the negligence of the People who are great affecters of Brandy is the occasion of setting their Houses on fire as it happened about 6 Weeks before our arrival there at what time by the negligence of a poor Woman happened a most dreadfull Conflagration that reduced about 35 Thousand Houses to ashes and that in the best part of the City which besides an incredible loss of House-furniture Merchandise and the like there were many children and impotent People killed The Dutch Merchants who had mostly their Residence near the place where the Fire first broke out sustained an incredible loss T is true the Houses are upon such occasions removed with as much ease as ours are blown up but if the Timber be knotty the Sparks and Cinders fly abroad and kindle other Houses at an incredible distance which being covered with dry Planks are not so easily extinguished The Czar upon consideration of the frequent Fires has appointed a party of the Strelitzers to be quartered in severall places at a due and convenient distance from each other throughout the 4 Wards who are continually to be at hand upon such occasions Now by reason of the great scarcity of Water in Moscou the first thing they lay their hands to is to disjoynt the Houses and therefore for the most part are train'd up in that kind of Architecture to be assistant again in the rebuilding of the same when all danger is supposed to be over The streets of Moscou are very spacious and wide but in rainy weather so miry that in walking you are up to the very knees in mud for which reason both Men and Women are fain to wear Boots Although 't is certain that inconvenience might be remedy'd by paving it with stone as they do in the Low-Countreys and else where During the time we were there it was not possible to thwart the streets if they had not thrown great beams and planks across the way Moscou and all the whole Countrey towards the North is capable of a very unwholsom Air for those that are not brought up in it being in the Winter exceeding sharp and cold and in the Summer hot and moyst In Winter they muffle up their Nose and Ears in Furs especially when they go upon a Journey And in Moscou it is well seen that many of the Inhabitants have neither Nose nor Ear which they say is by coming out of the bitter cold Air into a hot Stove for although it may seem strange yet cannot that be avoided in some places unless they rub their Noses and Ears which are frozen in Snow till they grow hot which done they may come into a House without danger and this you shall see them continually a doing in such Seasons It is also observable how that after a hard Winter the very Earth chinks and opens when it once begins to thaw But on the contrary it is there so hot in the Summer that a stranger cannot endure it at what time also the Marshes and standing Pools do so stink that one is ready to faint away besides the great annoyance of Gnats
they rarely rince As for rubbing and scouring they are meer strangers to it as also to ornaments and Toys unless it be a Figure which they call St. Nicholas or perhaps some other Saint for whom they have some particular or extraordinary veneration Slaves they are by nature and born to servitude and Bondage seldom ever aspiring so high as to indeavour to make themselves franc and yet will be excited to nothing by fair means or use diligence about any affair save what they are driven to by constraint and blows and yet so sweet this Slavery seems to be to them that rather than to become free upon the Decease of their Lords to whom they ow allegiance by nature or otherwise that they will immediatly sell themselves durante vitâ to some other Patron They are very prone to Theft yea and to Murther when they think that they can do it clandestinly or to any advantage how poor soever it be which seems to be primordially occasioned from the Penury of their Lords who hardly allow them what is requisit to support and sustain human Bodies as for Brandy and Tobacco they hold it but a venial Transgression to filch when they can come at it notwithstanding the strict and severe Laws against Theft in the lowest nature and lest importance This only is to be applied to the Vulgar sort as for those of greater Ability and Rank they spare not for what tends to a voluptuous Life and indulge their sences as much or more than is tolerable Free they are and indeed generous enough at their Table especially when they treat or welcom Strangers who are very welcom and received with all imaginable Urbanity on Condition that they observe the Countrey fashion which is to bring a Present with them that may countervail more than thrice the value of what is set before them and this if you forget to bring you may take my word they 'l forget to make you welcom The Slaves in Moscou are very hardly dealt withall and poorly fed but much harder those that are in the open Countrey where their Lords are sparing of their Allowance and therefore connive at their Filching thinking it falls out at last to their own profit especially if it be any thing of Food The Russes feed most of Roots Pulse and Fish use much Onions and Garlick in their Pottage and also for sauces Their Bread is mostly of Course Ry. As for Fish they eat it rather pickled than fresh which is plentifull in their Markets and by reason that washing and making clean the shambles is a kind of an Abomination to those people you cannot come within a hundred paces of the Market unless you stop your nose so nauseous and hatefull is the smell Those of the greatest Rank and ability do in general hold good Tables but eat most Spoon-meat although it were but bread out of Water that Fish has been boil'd in Cavear is a great Dainty amongst them but not so high in esteem there as abroad When they have drunk more than well agrees with them so that their stomach be surcharged they prepare a certain Dish which they call Pochmelie made up of cold Beef or Mutton sliced very thin and Quas Quas is a Liquor which they use as Beer of which it is made with a Composition of Water Beer-Vinegar Garlick and Pepper this Quas being so prepared they put their meat into it and seeth it a litle which afterwards they eat with Spoons The poorer sort have a certain Liquor much in use among them which they also call Quas this is made of Water with a litle Bran and Barley-meal which according to their ability they temper thicker or thinner The Gentry drink Beer that there is very strong and heady but more commonly Metheglin which they make of the best Honey adding Cloves Cinnamon Pepper Galangal Cardamom and other Spices This is a very strong and stealing Liquor of it self yet they think good to mix it with Brandy to make it more effectual Brandy which they call Wina they covet above all other Liquors which without any discretion or noted difference is drunk both by Spiritual and Temporal Nobles and Plebeïans Men and Women Young and Old and that at all times of the Day before and after Meals Sometimes to add a medicinal vertue they put a litle Pepper amongst it Nay so besotted are the Vulgar with Brandy that in the sharpest Weather they will not only part with their Caps or Coats for the Reckoning but likewise with their Boots Shirts and Stockings so that I have seen some of them come mother-naked out of the Kaback or Tipling-House The Common people were formerly so irregular and void of Order that they would drink themselves full and afterwards the men and Women setting aside all Reputation and Modesty commit sensual and beastly Actions together This great Disorder was lately remedied by the care of the Czar who by the advice of the Patriarch put down all the small Tap-houses throughout the whole Empire appointing in every Town and Village one public House or Kaback which they are to farm of the Emperour himself They are very covetous of Tobacco as has been elsewhere said notwithstanding the Tenure of a Decree or Mandate promulgated about the year 1634 which strictly forbids every person of what degree or quality he may be to smoke it which nevertheless is done privately The Russians are generally gross of Body yet subtile enough in affairs of Merchandise which they can manage very well Their Women are much inclined to Gossiping and busie Tatlers often beat by their Husbands who sometimes use them unkindly upon which they sometimes address themselves to Court where the men once convicted over such Crimes are sent to Syberia The Emperour considering the multitude of Complaints of this nature has ordained that if any Woman makes complaint without sufficient Evidence that the Man is to be tortured on the Rack which if he stands out the Wife is condemned to exile her self before which Law the Court was dayly troubled with such like Differences Few people there are in the World that are more accustomed to scolding railing and calumny than these although 't is very rare to see them come to blows yet much more rarely do they make use of their Weapons This evil custome of abusing one another oftentimes is the occasion of Quarrels with Strangers to whom it seems a Novelty The ordinary Habit of the Citizens is first an upper Coat of a dark green red brown or violet-colour'd Silk open before and on the sides and garnished with loops having behind great Capes almost like old-fashioned Cloaks in the Low-Countreys Under that they wear another coat of Say or Silk with a high and stiff Collar these have long sleeves which are tied up round with loops and stand Cooks in good stead to remove hot Pots and Cauldrons from the fire Those that have an intent or design to steel or murther usually have
that were willing for we saw the Vessel jogg too and again very lightly that we easily suspected some bad design as afterward it appeared for when they saw us wind about they made all the Sail they could and pursued us till finding that we were very well armed they gave over their chace The men aboard were Cosacks and as we beleeved of Radzins Folk Finding that they left us we consulted which way to steer and resolved to let drive before the Wind. We sounded and found 4 fathom and came in a short time close by Zierlan which we found to ly in 43 degr 7 min. From hence we saw the famous Ararat mounting his head far above the Caucasus which was nearer us The Land of the Island Zierlan is all covered with shells which seem to be wash'd over with high Floods and Inundations whence I presume none will Inhabit it About evening we put off and after an hours failing sounded and found we had 6 fathom and a sandy ground When night came we were surprized with a great Tempest and the Sea rose mountains high insomuch that we expected every moment to go to bottom and so we were thrown to and again on the tops of the billows In the morning it began to clear up and the Winds abated something so that we made a litle sail and indeavoured to steer towards the High-lands on the Circas coast After much labour in beating through the Waves and danger of our lives we got that heighth We sailed by a Tartarian City Seated near the Water between two Hills and by the way met with a Moscovian Boes where the Men aboard had acquaintance with us having lay with their Vessel aboard our Ship at Astrachan The said Men invited us all to dinner of Fresh Mutton and Rice which they first parboiled and afterward stewed with Butter of which we made a hearty meal After we had taken our leaves of them we steered away by the Coast and saw many pleasant Valleys and a fruitfull Countrey When the Evening came on and we seeing it good weather resolved that night to take our rest which we had not done for 3 nights together and to that end dropped anchor On the 20 we came within 15 Leagues of Derbent which is the land of the Dagestan Tartars who are so called for that they inhabit the hilly Countrey the word Dag in their tongue signifying a Mountain That part of the Countrey which lies toward the Sea is dry and heathy but within land very fruitfull as afterward to our sorrow we found it The men are very robust and able of Body of a deep swarthy complexion and terrible to look at Their Habit is much at one with the Circas-Tartars Their shoes are onely made of an Horses hide undrest and of one piece drawn together above the foot with Thongs Their Arms are only Bow Arrows and a Scimmatar although some have also Spears and Launces when they ride out or go upon any expedition they put themselves in Harnass to wit a Helmet and a Target They are great Men-stealers not sticking if they find oppoâ—tunity to sell their own Relations or Children of their nearest Friends which they bring to the Turks and Persians They are very bold and not easily daunted at any forreign Power trusting to the steep craggâ— and Mountains which are to others inaccessible They are Mahometans by profession but sorry Zealots for their Religion The Womeâ— feed and keep cattel but their men go out a Robbing These Mountains are very barren and sandy except where it is chalky The next day we weighed anchor and came before the Tartariâ— town Boynak which when we had just passed by it began to blow very hard from the Sea ward we having then about 16 fathom Water In the mean time the Sea began to grow very rough and hollow that we were forced to run the Shallop immediately a strand for fear of overturning being then but 5 leagues from Derbent which was the nearest Land Directly before the coast lay a long Rif or Bank and round about us was rocks which we by the grace of GOD escaped tho very narrowly for indeavoring to get our selves afloaâ— again we ran into a Circle of Rocks about 3 or 4 foot under Water and had much labour to get clear Having now wrought our selves out we gave our selves over to the mercy of Heaven letting the Boat drive what way it would till at last by a great Sea we were thrown upon the strand without either loss of men or Goods every man packing up what they thought fit to carry along with them The Goods which belonged to Capt. Butler and Mr. Termund we buried in the Sand thinking to send for them upon occasion by the Persians But most unhappy proved this our landing here for no sooner were we come ashoar but we were espied by the Tartars who came and delved up the Goods we had so hidden and carried it away upon their Horses to a litle Village hard by and brought the news of such an accidental Booty to Aly Sultan their Prince who came on Horse back with a guard of Troopers to seek us Altho by day we hid our selves in the Woods and by night went forward on our Journey Having remained one night in the Woods where we took our rest Our Company consulted what was best to do whether to march forward on our journey or to tarry It was advised by the major part to go but I was rather desirous to tarry 3 or 4 days longer till the heat of the pursuit was over that so thinking when the Tartars should have sought for us a while in vain they would give us over for lost However they were very forward to be going and rejected my Council In the mean while C. Brak slept with his wife and child at a litle distance from us and the rest of the Company would that we should leave them there because that the Woman and Child were but a cumber to us So soon as I understood their intent was to leave them so I insisted on the contrary with words to this effect Pray Gentlemen remember your selves to what end should you do such an unworthy act and leave those poor souls behind us who have neither Money nor means to subsist and must in all apparency perish in a strange place and then what guilt must we have upon our Consciences But know this if you indeed resolve to go and leav'em it is also my resolution to cry out and make our Fates equal When they saw me so zealous and in a hot passion they were contented to take them with us I was the more concerned at it for his Fathers sake who when we left our Native Countrey show'd us all imaginable Friendship and therefore indeared him the more to me About half a day we marched with Muskets and other heavy Armor upon our shoulders besides our baggage along the sides of the Mountains till at last we came into a
own Coasts to Gilan The Water in these Whirpools is hurried about with an incredible violence and makes such a noise that if the Weather be still they may be heard at 5 or 6 leagues distant It is my opinion that these are the Passages whereby this great Lake has a subterranean communication with the Euxin or som other Sea for it is well known that it receivs 84 huge Rivers besides the Wolga which is reputed the 3 d River of the World for greatness and hither do all the Floods of the Persian and Tartarian Rivers hasten as it were to their Center with an admirable celerity so that when we sailed we always made a calculation how far we would be carried off in thwarting the stream and so bore up towards the Coast as well for shortning our Course as to avoid the Whirpools where if any Vessel be brought she must inevitably perish The best and most commodious Shipping for this Sea is a Flat-bottom from 80 to a hundred Tuns Upon a time it happened that my Master and I fell into a discourse about Trading and Commerce making a paralel between their way of merchandizing and ours where among other Words I told him That If I were once again at Liberty I could make a good Advantage and did not doubt but that in a short time I should return with a Ship full of Hollands Commodities upon which he asked me If I was so rich then I answered No But if I came safe into my own countrey some or other would intrust me with a Cargo for those parts being now well acquainted with the Conveniency of the Caspian Sea My Patron hearing that thought that I might probably be som way instrumental to do him service and that night discoursed som Armenians about me who dealt in Silk upon which they desired to see me My Master having appointed them a day I went along with him where one of the most eminent asked me if I could speak Italian and if I was of Amsterdam or if I knew such a Merchant there I answered him in Italian That I was of Amsterdam but did not know the Gentleman he named yet was acquainted with several there who dealt in Silk He then entred into a discourse which was much after this manner That the only way to Trade with Holland was to bring over Lead Quicksilver Cloth Serges Says and all kinds of Low-Countrey Commodities and Manufactures which would be very marketable at Derbent Scamachy and Ardobil and might produce good profit so that all the Staple of Silk might be brought to Holland and That all Goods whatever might be more conveniently transported over the Caspian Sea and so up the Wolga bringing it down to Archangel and so for Holland which would not prove so tedious by far as to bring it over Land to Smyrna where by the way so much Danger and so many Duties were met withall and then from Smyrna to run the Hazard of the Barbary Corsairs thro the Mediterranean and the Spanish Sea besides unreasonable Duties that are imposed by the Turks which probably the Czar of Moscovia would not set so high to draw a Traffic of such importance thro his Jurisdiction c. That Gilan Scirwan and other adjacent Provinces bordering upon the Caspian Sea could deliver upwards of 50000 Bales of Silk every year Bocharen also affoards pretious Furrs and the East Countrey good plenty of Segrine-Leather Saffron Rhubarb and other precious Druggs This was the sum of all the Discourse we had for that time but not much hopes were then given me of gaining my Freedom by assisting them in a Trade to Europe The Caspian Sea may more properly be termed a Lake were it not that its Greatness and Saltness gave it the name of the latter for it is environed on every side with the Main Continent and receives 85 great Rivers as has been said before which nevertheless do not make it swell any higher upon extraordinary Rains and Tempest which the more confirms what I have already mentioned about the two famous Whirlpools What concerns the Breadth and Greatness of the Caspian Sea as also its ' Scituation Bays Rivers Creeks Islands Towns and their distance of Bearing they are sufficiently noted in the Card hereto annexed which I have with great diligence composed partly by my own experience and partly by the help of some Armenian Marriners who were well acquainted herewith It s length which is reckoned from Wolga to Astrabath North and South is computed to be 129 Leagues and from Tarku to the River Jemla which is accounted the Breadth being East and West is about 60 Leagues For 6 7 8 and 9 Leagues from the Coast the Water is somtime fresh and somtime brakkish and from 12 to 50 fathom Anchor ground but the Sea is within fresh and out of sounding It is also called the Hyrcan and the Salt Sea It has many Boughts Inlets Creeks and Angles the Bay of Gilan tends above 38 Leagues inwards taking its beginning at the Cape of Scabaran and reaches to Sengar Hasam This Sea is environed mostly on the East and North with a sandy and barren ground having also many Quarries of Marble and Alabastre On the East side of this Sea is a Noble River not much inferior to the Wolga which river parts the Calmuc-from the Gwin-Tartars but the Countrey on each side being inhabited with a wild People using among themselvs no kind of Traffic and therefore unsafe for others to adventure themselvs My Master Mahomet Sala once sailing past the mouth of this River I pressed him hard to sail up to view the Conveniency and take an account of the Quality of the Countrey But he told me he had a greater esteem for his Life Ship and Goods than to satisfy my curiosity about a busineâ— of so mean importance This Sea affoards great plenty of all kinds of Fish and is farmed of the King of Persia from April to September for a vast sum of Money and that for a certain Distance from the Coast which is set off with Stakes within which bounds none are to fish upon pain of Death but without every one has the permission to fish yet without Fish is very rare except in some litle Shoals here and there and those only at some Seasons which are uncertain After the Farm is expired it is also free within the Stakes for every one to fish Here is an incredible plenty of Salmon as also Carps Breams Sturgeon and other Fish held with us in great esteem and those in general both larger and fatter than those taken on the Coast of Holland or any other Sea or Water in Europe that I know Carps when come to their full growth are sometimes above 4 foot long but those are not so delicate as when they are less Here also many strange Fishes by us unknown and I beleev most of them proper only to this Sea Amongst those strange kinds is one which by reason of the disproportion of
bought them for the value of 100 Crowns These he kept for Warming Pans and would upon Occasion when he made any Feast cause them to dance nor did they much seem to be concern'd at the loss of those heavy burthens called Maidenheads althô the Art is to know where they first got rid of 'em CHAP. XXII The Hatred and Churlishness of the Ambassadour against the Polish Gentry A Polish Gentleman murthered in his bed The pitiful case and condition of the Polanders who were in the Retinue of the Legate The Ambassadours Greediness He indeavours to turn Mahometan The Authors intention to make his escape Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi where they do what they can for the Captivs The Ambassadors Brother goes for Ispahan where he desires to be admitted as a Mahometan but is not received William the Masters Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi A great Earth-quake Consecration of Water among the Armenian Christians A great concourse of People and remarkable Ceremonies ON the 2 of November came the Sister of the Ambassador and his Brother with a great Retinue and Pomp their Reception was with an Extravagant Banquet which dured several days So long as this Junketting lasted was such Gluttony Drunkness and Prodigality yea such beastliness shown that I almost abhorred the name of a Christian when on the other side I saw the Mahometans point at them who are themselvs very abstemious and temperate Yet this only was to gratify the Georgians and Persians for he demeaned himself very churlishly towards the Polish Gentry who were sent to grace his Person as a Retinue Scarce were they ever admitted into his presence and besides that pinched in their allowance as well in Diet as Habit and at last having spent the Money they brought with them out of Poland were reduced to such poverty that they went up and down like Beggars being ashamed to com into honest Company for besides their costly Attire which he always kept locked up he would not allow them a sufficiency of Linnen to keep them clean If any offered to complain he threatned to sell them for Slaves which tended to the great detriment of those his Domestics and Dishonour of the King and Crown of Poland This bred in the Polish Gentry such dissaffection that they resolved oftentimes to have revenge but as those who know themselvs conscious of such ill demeanor are ever in fear of their Persons so he who knew himself guilty of such wicked doings had always a certain number of his own Nation to secure and guard him However they once finding opportunity and being already com to the very Catastroph of Patience began to hew him with their Scymiters and Axes as he should go out of his Dining-Room where they chopt and mangled him so that he lay for dead upon the Floor in the Portic having received 17 grievous Wounds and lost three Fingers of his Right hand yet by the great diligence and skill of his Chirurgeon who was then at hand he was restored to his former Health and Sanity This outrage as it could not but ingender bad blood so it rendred the Ambassadour much more despightfull than before and that very night to be revenged sent a Georgian Soldier to Paniegros a Polish Gentleman who was as Assistent in this Ambassage and equally impowered to treat with the Ministers of State at the Persian Court and therefore reckoned by the other as an obstruction in the Promotion of his Interest as well as his being ready to represent the Occasion of these Tumults to the King in such manner as might tend to his disadvantage yet it ought to be understood of this Gentleman that he neither gave incouragement nor knew any thing of that extravagant Action The Georgian having obtained entrance ran to his Bed-side and there most inhumanly murthered him whilst asleep This Paniegros was a Gentleman of a brave conduct and withall of a meek temper having purchased the Love even of those that seemed to be his Lot-enemies for his prudent and civil deportment He had lived for som years together at Amsterdam and spoke very good Nether-dutch The rest of the Polish Nation were taken and secured som whereof were fast in Chains Nor with this did the Ambassador hold up but dayly revenged himself of the Poles which he used as Slaves and the more to over aw them listed several Georgians-Soldiers to guard his Body The Prince of Scamachy now sensible of the Differences and sad disorder of affairs took upon himself the Office of a Mediator and adjousted the matter so well that the imprisoned Parties were set again at liberty yet were no better used than before as to their Sus-and Maintenance whereas one Man might easily eat the Allowance he gave for 8. He on the Contrary continued a Junketting with those of his own Nation that an Ox a day would not have been too much if it were not for varietie and change of Diet. He bought 13 Kine which he sent out into the Field and set me to look after them but finding my self at a loss for Victuals I assumed the liberty to tell his Excellency that he must please to send me somthing to eat in the Field His answer was If you will have any thing steal a cow from the Persians and help your self so But that Commission I took occasion to let alone being sensible that my masters Order would not excuse me Thus I suffered more hunger than in all my life and sore against my will intimated the matter to my former Patron Hadsi Biram who gave me this reply I told you of it before-hand what a villain that Georgian is That he was but a Christian in show and far too base to be a Musulman And certainly the Gentleman had good reason on his side for this Ambassadour well knowing what Beer was brewed for him at the Court in Warsaw dispatches his Brother to the King at Ispahan to supplicate that they might both be circumcised pretending that now knowing better things than he had hitherto don therefore could not have Peace or Rest in Conscience but continual Horror and Inquietude if he were not admitted as a member in Mahometanism But they had such ample and clear Information at Court of his Life and Behaviour that they easily perceiv'd upon what account he did it and consequently declined his Request Shortly after he also received a Mandate from Ispahan to depart immediatly for Poland which was acceptable news for the Polish Gentry hoping at once to be rid of that Slavery and Misery they suffered After my old Patron had discoursed me a litle about this affair took his leav of me saying John I am very sorry for your condition pre'thee therefore com twice a day to my house and eat or at what time you are hungry I shall give my wife order upon my Absence to give you Victuals The sweetest music I must confess I heard in Persia
Persian of reputed Sanctity murthered by a Georgian after a very base degenerate manner The Murtherer was forthwith apprehended and brought before the Prince where he was accused of the Fact and consequently delivered to the nearest Allies of the Patient to use at their discretion as is customary in Persia for rarely it happens that either the King Prince Deputie or the Civil Magistracy take notice of such delinquencies but turn over the Malefactor to the aggrieved Parties who if they be Poor oftentimes sell their Vengeance for Money after which the Law is silent but here the Delinquent had not that Fortune for the Brother of the Murthered Party had neither Poverty nor Mercy but so soon as permission was granted him he caused two Men to hold him down till he had stabbed him with the same Weapon saying Get thee hence thou drunken Dog to the Devil to whom thou belongest for the Georgian was a drunken Fellow and executed in the same fit of Drunkness wherein he had so far mistaken himself so that the Murther Complaint and Execution were all done in the space of three Hours On the 3 of May fell out a dolefull Tragedy at a Wedding where when all the Company were in the middest of their mirth and the Bridegroom in a gay and jolly humour was suddenly struck at the Heart as if he had taken in somthing that was a vigorous and speedy poyson and immediately fell down and died in the arms of his Bride Immediatly upon this all was in a lamentable case The Bridegrooms Mother was so impatient and concern'd that she took a Knife and ript up her own Belly that all her Bowels gushed out and she fell to the Ground The Sister seeing this ran out of Doors as one distracted tearing her Hair and rending her Flesh that many wondred to think how a young Woman of that tenderness could so mangle and abuse her Body and at last ran up to the top of a steep Rock whence she threw her self praecipitantly so that this fair Morning had a foul Evening and these Nuptial Solemnities which began with a Comedy concluded with a deep Tragoedy On the 9 th was a solemn Procession made at Scamachy which is yearly celebrated in Memory of St. Hosseyn the second Son of Aly and the Grand Expounder of the Alcoran who was stoned to death or as som ascertain shot with Darts or Arrows This Feast they call Asschur which in their Language signifies Ten for that Hosseyn when he went from Medina to Kufu was 10 days pursued by his Enemies so that this Feast continues 10 days This Hosseyn as I said before was the youngest Son of the great Aly for whose death they seem very sorrowfull About the Beginning of this Feast those that are able apparel themselvs in Blew which is their Mourning as Black is with us During these 10 days they never shave their Hair nor take any Rasour in their Hands whereas at other times they make use of it every day They hold also a very strict Fast drinking nothing but Water and all the time howl and make a very mournfull noise breathing out many fearfull curses against the Murtherer beating themselvs continually and with that earnestness till they grow black and blew The Boys and Men run continually about the streets with Flags and Dassels raging and bawling as if they were either drunk or besides themselvs ever crying out O Hosseyn Hosseyn Others sit at the Thresholds and in the Galleries of the Mesquits or Churches incessantly crying O Hosseyn Hosseyn O Hosseyn Hosseyn Before every door and at every Window were planted many Torches and not a House how poor soever it was in all Scamachy without a great Number of Torches and wax candles set all in Rows which gave a wonderfull show No less worthy of sight was the Procession which was performed with many Ceremonies and such was my curiositie that notwithstanding all the Thumps I got I still crowded in among them to see all I could First of all appeared the Chatib or High-priest accompanied with a long rout of Inferior Clergy The Chatib or Mufti himself was attired in a long blew Robe with a white Torse or Wreath about his Head and so were all the rest of the Clergy attired after the same manner yet different in Pomp and statelyness according to their several degrees and advancement The Chatib had in his hand an Arabian Book out of which he read the Memorials of the Saint with an exceeding loud voice which ended he was silent for a little while and then again began all the Priests to sing with a strange melody or rather howling for it was but a confused Harmony ever crying out O Hosseyn O Hosseyn Hosseyn In short a third part of what I heard was Hosseyn After these followed all the Great Personages and next to them 2 Great Pageants of form square each with a pompous Canopy these were supported and born by a certain number of Men on the one was the Representation of the Prophet being signified by a Person who had taken in a Potion which made him to sleep for 48 hours together lying upon a Bier Round about the supposed Corps sate 6 little Boys who had the Art of weeping ad unguem Above the Canopy stood two Towers very pompous and costly and out of the one a Youth put forth his Head weeping aloud and dolefully cried out Hosseyn Hosseyn O Hosseyn Hosseyn On each side the Pageant ran several young Men all naked save only about the Middle having anointed themselvs with Flower and black Naphtha that they looked more like Satyrs than Men in their Hands they had Truncheons wherewith they threatned quasi verò to bastonado the Murtherer Others there were who carried in each hand a Flint or som hard stone which they smote together still howling and weeping aloud that had it not appeared otherwise by their wanton Actions when any She-slave came near them I should have taken all for real and unfeigned sorrow All this while they jumped and twisted themselvs into many postures the Air still Ecchoing with Hosseyn Hosseyn Besides these were 6 lusty Men of robust Bodies having each a naked Scymiter in the hand and bare-headed these danced after a very od manner making various Figures and always at turning made an effectual Exercise of their Weapons in such manner that the Blood which came gushing out of the Wounds on their Heads ran down their Shoulders with such streams that no part of their Bodies was free of Blood and to those Champions was imputed a great mesure of Sanctity for that they had voluntarily shed their Blood for the sake of the great Hosseyn In one of their Heads as I afterwards could descry were more than 20 Wounds After this follow'd the second Pageant which was carried by the like number of Men. Above it had a Coffin upon which was a green Turbant and round about it were also 6 young Men each one with an
Assailed and Plundered A famous stone Bridge The sepulchre of Zeyde Tzeybrail Arrival at Ardebil The Situation of that Town The bitter Cold. Great and raging Whirl-winds Extraordinary good Wheat The great Toll and Duty paid for Sheep Seven and Fifty Towns within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil A Description of the City of it's Streets and of the Street of Strumpets who are Poëtesses and ordained to compose Hymns of Praise to the name of the Great Aly. Free Places within the City The Markets and Shops Sumptuous Mezids and Chappels ON the 30 dito by Gods good Conduct we set forward with the whole Caravan which consisted of 2000 Men or upwards and about 1000 Camels and Horses of Carriage My Master also had 20 Horses of his own in particular loaden with Chestnuts for a Present to the King of Persia for one having any Matter or Affair at Court never appears before either the Scach or any subordinat Prince empty handed Our way was over very high and steep hills amongst which we found the Sepulchre of a great Persian Saint called Pyr Mardechan being at the foot of the Mountains of Faherlu The Countrey here about lies waste and desart there being neither Inhabitant nor Provision to be had by the way so that we made all the hast we could to get the Carawansera This hard travailing was not very unwelcom to us because that the weather was cold althô som of the Horses being heavy loaden and tired were left behind About the Evening we came to Kasily where we took up our nights lodging The Countrey round about Casily is altogether barren and dry except here and there some good pasturage so that the manner of Living with the Inhabitants is like that of the Tartars moving to and again over the face of the Countrey with their Wives Children Utensils Cattel and what else they have and when they set down pitch their Tents all in Rows which they call Ostak During our travailing thrô this Countrey we could get litle else but Milk to refresh our selves however my Patron out of his Bounty would not suffer me to want for any thing but imparted to me what he had as well Victuals to eat as Wine to drink which served me for a good Breast-plate against the Cold. Having staid one night at Kasily we set forward and about 8 a clock the next evening came to a fair Village called Tzawaar or Tzawat as some call it which is so much as to say a Thorow-fare because that here is the Passage which brings over the grand River Araxes and here every one is to show his Pasport out of fear that some Turks should slip over with the Caravan of whom the Persian is alwaies jealous and are constrained to take sharp notice of every particular Person At this place is a long Bridge made of Keels and thwarted with massy Planks that are fastned together with great Bolt and Chains which for better security is guarded with a good number of Soldiery When we were transported over the said River we took our Nights-rest in the Open-fields The River Araxes takes its head about the high Mountains between Schirwan and Mokan behind Mount Ararat running North-east till it finds the River Kur or Cyrus where it disgorgeth it self about 39 degr 54 min. Northerly latitude where these two Rivers are incorporated Kur as it is vulgarly called rises in the Mountains of Georgia or Gurgistan Araxes is reckoned to be one of the swiftest Rivers in all Asia very deep and good Water Araxes also receives several other noble Rivers to wit Carasu Senki and Kerni Arpa About the Mouth of Carasu it is at the deepest but about a league from Ordabath it makes a horrisonant roaring and a most hideous murmur where it receives the floods of the famous Mochan which River as well as the Araxes abounds with various kinds of Fish The Banks which in most Places mount very high are all grown ore with the shrub Gliâ—yrrhiza a kind of Liquirice as also Liquirice of the common kind but far thicker than either the Spanish German or that which is brought from Moscovia for I have seen som of it that was thicker than my Arm. On the 3 of November we travailed 5 leagues over the Heath of Mochan and saw by the way many Hurdles and Boors Cottages but durst not call at any to provide our selvs with Refreshments being sensible of the perils for hither are all those sent to Exile whom the Scach thinks good to banish and hither resort all the Mutineers so that these like the Banditti in the Alps render the way very unsafe and incommodous to travel somtimes surprizing and assailing the Caravans when they find themselves of Force enough or the Caravan too weak to withstand'em On the 4 th dito we set forward and in the way found the River Baltharu which for Greatness gives place to all the before named but for the Multitudes of Tortoises that are taken here about no less famous nor inferiour to any other in all the surface of the Countrey All along the Banks we saw holes and caves which those Animals had made in the Sand the shoar appearing like a Coney-borrough These Caves have their mouth or entrance alwaies to the Southward where they lay their Eggs. On the Countrey through which this River softly glides we saw several Cottages or Tents as we did the day before but found the Inhabitants harmless and very poor yet merry and jocund the Children were stark naked and the Men and Woman had hardly cloaths enough to cover their middle They received us in very friendly manner according to their ability bringing us Milk for our selvs and Provender for the Camels and Horses which they sold at a very mean and inconsiderable Price considering under what necessity we were then This day we travailed 6 Dutch Leagues On the 5 we travailed about as far as we did the day before but were fain to take up our Lodging under the great Canopy of Heaven setting down with the whole Caravan near som Water-pitts where we found good pasturage for the Beasts considering the season of the year The next day we found an end of the Heath Mokan and had High-land to travail over as the Mountains of Bethzyrvan or Bethzyrum This day we crossed a small River if I well remember 12 times having a crooked or serpentine Course which the Merchants of Scamachy for their Conveniency had promised a considerable Sum of Money to som Ingenieurs to to make streight yet by reason of many intervening Hills and those mostly of a hard rock could not be effected At night we got the Village Schechmurat where my Patron sent me out to fetch som spring-Spring-Water but being about half an English mile without the Town was assail'd by 3 Robbers who suddenly came running out upon me having their Eies fixed my Armor so that in all probability that which I had for my Defence would have been my
Schach Sephy prayed and fasted for 40 Days together without Intermission using only a Cup of Water every day Doors covered with Plates of Gold by Schach Abas The Library and Repository of the Vtensils for the Kings Table The Garden or Yard where the Persian Kings lie interred The names of the 12 Kings that lie there buried The Revenues belonging to this Mesar or sepulchre Som fast Revenues Ardebil a famous Mart. UPon the 13 my Patron Hadzi Byram who was a very zealous devout Mahometan went to perform his Devotion at the H. Sepulchre of Zide Tzaybrail in Kelcheran having first well provided himself with Fasting and the Bath I pray'd him also that he would please to take me with him but he positivly refused save of this Answer he gave me John if you will indeed becom a Musulman I am freer you should go than stay behind but it is not lawful to bring a Christian thither to pollute that most Holy spot of Ground O Sir replied I why cannot I wash my self as clean as a Musulman and why should it be thought that I pollute the Place since I leav nothing at all behind me but what I find there All this would not prevail with him but rather seemed to incite him to anger so that being unwilling to purchase his displesure to pamper my self with such an unprofitable curiosity I thought fit for that time to desist But the next morning finding him in a pleasant humor I renewed my request and he assented thô conditionally as First to keep silence all the time since I was not perfect in the Dialect and so might com to be discovered Secondly not to stare any Person fully in the Face and Thirdly to act for Changeling in case any Body came to question me Fools and Madmen being with them reputed Holies for they are of Opinion that all men have an equal understanding and that those who are either Mad or Foolish imploy the rest of their Senses in a Divine and Celestial Contemplation or Converse with Angels The Grave or Tomb stood in the midst of a spacious Court and built round above all was a round Tower which was covered with Blew and Green Stone glazed which made a most gorgeous show It was raized high so that we must ascend 10 steps before we enter Being com to the Threshold my Patron made there certain Prayers that don he gave the Sign that he would be in upon which one of the Hafisans or Waiters came out who demanded of him his Sable and Boots and of me my Truncheon which he shut up in a litle Chamber my Patron then having given him a piece of money in the Hand and so we both went in bare-foot The Floor was all laid with Tapestry the Roof and Walls were painted Blew illustrated here and there with Flowers of Gold which made it look with a great splendor the Glass in the Windows was of divers colours like as in old Christian Churches and I presume don by the same Art which som will needs say is lost On the sides were several litle Chambers and Appartments which alwaies stand open Here sit several Doctors who are to instruct Youth in the Alchoran as also to read and to sing that so they may be fit to serve in that holy Function and administer at the sacred Tomb. Here and there were several Chairs whereon lay som pieces of the Alchoran In the Middle of all stood the said Tomb being about a Mans height raised above ground 6 Foot long and proportionably broad It was of pure Gold and laid in with Flowers and Foliage of Silver which was very artificially don Above the Tomb under a Canopy of Blew Silk hung 4 Lamps 2 of Gold and 2 of Silver which every night are lighted by certain Attendants which they call Tzirachtschikan When my Patron approached to the Grave the Waiters took off the Covering which was of green Velvet upon which after he had mumpled over certain Prayers bowed himself pushed with his head against the Tomb kissed it and so stepping backwards was met at the door by one of the Hafisans who gave him the Benediction and so dismissed him When he was com to the Carawansera concluded this Devotion with a sumptuous and an Epicurean Banquet with Drinking Dancing and Whoring so that it may easily be perceived that the extreme and furthest Hope they have who are the greatest Zelots in Turcism is only for libidinous Enjoyments and to obtain their fill of voluptuous Plesures and sensual Delights in the World to com as by an implicit Faith they are induced to beleeve In Ardebil are many excellent Hot-baths which bring in no small profit to the Owners my Master also made frequent use of the same as well out of a superstitious Zeal as for conservation of Health But about 3 Dutch miles without Ardebil are certain Hot wells proceeding from a sulphurous quality of the Earth These are exceeding hot and may not be touched so that round about are several Baths and Fountains which are tempered with the hot water being convey'd thither in Pipes and Conduits These Baths so tempered are reputed very good against the Itch Biles and other external Grievances and Sores and as som have found usefull against internal Distempers as was advised my Patron by a Doctor at Scamachy to make use of it for a weakness in his joints On the 16 my Master set out to go to these Baths and asked me to go with him bidding me take a Horse so that I was as well mounted as he himself he took with him 3 Slaves with an Ass to carry clean Linnen Meat and Wine with other Refreshments A little before we came at those Wells we smelled a strong smell of Brimstone and heard the Water bubble up and boil We saw also smoke and vapours that rose in many places from the Water which made me very faint The chiefest of those Wells is called Grandausch but this my Master thought not fit for him to use but went to another called Serdebe which nevertheless is reputed the best Water and was therefore roofed over with a stately Arch at the Charges of the Grand Chancelor Tzulpharachan Among the Slaves that my Patron had was an old Greek for whom he had a great kindness and used him more like a Brother than a Servant So soon as he was uncloathed this Greek rubbed his Body with a Towel till he was all over red then he stepped into the Bath where for some time he sat to the neck in Water and then coming out dried himself took a draught of very strong Wine and away again into the Bath which having done 2 or 3 times together he clothed himself and rode away to a Carawansera where the Day before he had bespoke a warm Bed in which he lay him down and stayd over night The next day betimes in the Morning we rode back to Ardebil where he kept his Bed for som days following On the 20 th I
went with my Patron to see the most noble Sepulchre of Schach Sephy My said Patron also prepared himself for this as he did to visit the other at Kelcheran by Fasting and Prayer This famous Mausoleum erected to the memory of Scach Sephy and now the Burying Place of other Persian Kings lies near the Maydan Before this pompous Sepulchre stands a fair Gate of rich Marble in which is shown an Admirable Skill in Architecture Within this Port or Gate hang two Massy Silver Chains athwart each other like Festons those they say were bestowed on this Place by the Chan of Meggura for a Monument of his Zeal Having entred this Gate we came into a fair and spacious Court all paved with square Stones and polished Porphyr round about on each side were Arches as Piazzas under which were shops of all sorts of Haberdashery Wares and Toys After this we went thrô another Gate far more beautifull than the former and within this was a fair Garden and indeed one of the fairest I had hitherto seen It was planted with all manner of Flowers and Herbs that might delight the Eie and Nose and all kinds of delicious Fruits to serve the Palat. Every Man has his freedom to walk and recreate himself but upon a very strict penalty not to pluck either Flower or Fruit. I was told how that 5 years before my being there a drunken Persian had hewn down a great bough with his Scymiter but being taken was immediatly beheaded with the same Weapon In this Gate hung also another great Silver Chain which was given by the Chan of Kentzay Here they demanded our Weapons which being delivered my Patron went forward to another Gate which entring he fell down and kissed the Threshold withall charging me not to touch it with my Feet lest I should pollute that which many thought worthy a long Pilgrimage to com and kiss he told me also that it was a favour greater than ordinary that I being a blind ignorant Christian and an Infidel should be admitted to pry into so glorious a Sanctuary I was heartily content to obey his Will rather than to deny my Curiosity and followed him close at the Heels lest coming into som Labrynth I should loose my Life by the Loss of my Master The next Place we came into was a stately Gallery or rather an Antichamber arched cross wise and neatly plaistered On the right hand as I went in was a great Silver Cock which ran with Water that was conveyed thither by leaden Pipes from a fair Fountain about 4 English miles without Town Right over against this is another Apartment paved with green and blew glazed stones and on the Floor was spread a very rich Carpet in the middle stood two huge Silver Candlesticks about 8 or 9 Foot high round about were Seats as in our Chores wherein sat several Priests all in white Stoles who sung all the time keeping good Harmony and at the End of every Versicle bowed all alike one to another This Place is called Tzichillachane the Chappel or Oratory of the King so called by reason of the 40 days which the Persians affirm that Scach Sephy spent here at one time in Fasting and Prayer not using any thing all that time save only a Cup of Water once a day Leaving this place we went into another Gate where a Silver Chain hung that was presented by Aly Chan. The Parlour or Hall into which we now came was all paved and laid in with a splecked Stone The Building its self was round like a Theatre the Doors were laid over with Silver Plates and had two great Silver Rings like Wreaths or Torses At the Entrance lay a costly and large Carpet where we were to pull off our Boots without which none is admitted to go in no not the King himself who somtimes to be a Praecedent and Example of Zeal pulls off his Boots at the first Gate but that 〈◊〉 seems is held to be a Work of Supererogation From hence we wen◠to another Magnificent Hall thrô a Gallery the Pavement where of was covered with rich Tapestry The Doors of this said Hall we◠covered with Plates of Gold which was don at the Charges of the Schach Abas who had made a vow to do it in case he returned hom◠with Triumph when he went on an Expedition against the Vsbequ◠in Chorasan as he did and vanquished the Rebels This Hall is n◠so spacious as beautifull by far the Roof being no more than 48 Foo◠long and 30 broad In the middle hung several Gold and Silver Lamp◠and on each side sate 12 Priests each having a low Stool before him on which lay so many Parchment Books containing several Legend of the Alchoran which they read and sung by Turns Leavin◠this Place we went into another which was separated and environe◠with Silver Rails and had 3 Ascents or Steps to go up of solid Silve◠This is the last and chief Oratory or House of Prayer where o◠Patron pray'd with very great Zeal From hence we ascended int◠another Place which was one Step higher and separated with mas◠Grate-work all of pure Gold and wreathed behind this was t◠Tomb of Schach Sephy which was of fair Marble being about 3 Fo◠high 9 Foot long and 4 broad It was covered with a Carpet 〈◊〉 Crimson Velvet richly embroidered and laid in with precio◠Stones Above hung several Lamps and on each side 2 huge Candl◠sticks all of solid Gold these are lighted every Evening and bu◠all the Night long The Door of this Place is opened for no Secul◠or Temporal Person or Personage nor for the King himself Ne◠this Tomb we saw also the Tombs of Schach Ismaël of Sephys an◠of som Queens all which were only supplyed with Curtains an◠void of curious Work and Ornament Leaving the Sepulchre w◠went out at a door on the Right Hand that led into the Libra◠which was very spacious yet without any Pillar Here are kept all the Ancient Records of Persia with abundance of Manuscripts in the Chaldean Persian Arabic and Syrian Tongues the Books were piled up one above another and most of them adorned with Gold and Silver whence I concluded that they were more for show than for dayly use and recourse In this said Library were several less Appartments where were many Porceline Dishes Cups and other Utensils for the Kitchin and Table which are used when the King or any other great Personage comes to Eat there whereas they say it is not consistent with the Humility they profess to be served in Gold or Silver the more because that the great Schach Sephy himself did eat altogether out of Wooden Dishes From hence we went out and came into the Kitchin the Doors whereof were covered with Silver Leavs by the aforesaid Schach Abas and the Room within very neat and handsom The Cooks were all the time very still and quiet as if it were som Religious Duty they were about
pristin State On the 2 of Decemb. we set forward and came in good time to Sultanie a City lying in 36 degr and 30 min. Northerly Latitude It is situated between two rows of very steep Mountains and toward the West we saw the Mountain Keydar Peyamber whose lofty top seems to support the Heavens this being next to Ararat the highest Mountain I have ever seen The City Sultany affoards a most noble Prospect from abroad by reason of her many lofty Piles magnificent Churches high Towers Pyramids Obelisks and Cylinders which still remain notwithstanding the furious Irruption of the savage Tartars under conduct of the valiant Tamerlan who with many other Towns laid this level with the Ground save the great and stupendious Fabrics even now remembred which when one is within Town look like a set of Nine-pins or the Stones on Salisbury Plain so that this which was reputed one of the Royal Cities is meaner than most villages It was built by Sultan Choddabende a very rich and potent Prince who besides many famous Conquests in Persia and Usbec subdued the greatest part of Turky and many Indian Kingdoms and Provinces som of which still remain under the subjection of the Schach of Persia This City he called Sultanie from the Honorary Title of Sultan for so the Kings of Persia who are now called Schach were of old entitled as also at present the Ottoman Emperour Notwithstanding the abovesaid devastation of this City appear yet many signal Monuments of it's former Glory amongst which is the splendid Court and Palace of the great Choddabende called The Emarath This was fortified on each side with strong Walls and several greaâ— Bulwarks altogether built of huge square Stones of 3 Foot Diameter it had also 4 high Towers but strong and of neat Workmanship Within is a very noble Sepulchre built by Sultan Choddabende himself who lay here interred but the too great Piety of his Successor woulâ— not suffer his Bones to rest but removed them to the Meschaichâ— Ardebil In entring this Sepulchre one must pass thrô three very higâ— Gates all made of Indian Steel very neatly polished and as smootâ— as Glass this being the same Mettal of which the Damaskin or Ardâ—bil Scymiters are made and is praeferred before any other Stâ— that is used That Gate which leads out to the Maydan as the Persiaâ— would perswade themselvs and us cannot be opened by any Force buâ— when one prays to GOD for the sake of his Servant Aly that may open it opens of it's self The Building is very high contractinâ— its self at top into the manner of a Tower and within is set witâ— white and blew Tiles of Porceline Above where it begins to draâ— its self into the form of a Tower is a Partition of Steel Barrs whicâ— makes a handsom Chore. In this Partition or Quire I saw many Books written in Arabic Characters some whereof were above 30 Inches long I opened one of them and found an interlineary change oâ— Gold and Black lines like the Rubrics in the Roman Breviaries Lâ—turgies and Mass books Behind the Altar is the Tomb where Sultâ— Muhamed Choddabende lay interred but parted from the Body of thâ— Chore with great and massy Barrs of Indian Steel which the Persiaâ— say was all of one piece no place appearing where it might seem tâ— be well'd or set together and that it was seven years a making iâ— India In this said Emarath are 20 pieces of Brass Ordnance every Carridge having 4 wheels a piece and the Balls lying by them oâ— white Marble these are made forsooth for defence of the H. Sepulchre The Tower above is 8 square and on each side a Gallery anâ— upon each Gallery a small Turret going up with Winding-stairs Before this Temple is a Fountain the curious Work whereof showâ— the great skill and dexterity of the Workman that ordained it it receives its Water by an Aqueduct from the Keydar and behind the Emarath is a very pleasant Garden with Walks and Rows of diveâ— sorts of Trees Besides this illustrious Pile of Sultan Choddabende is another built by Schach Ismael the first This is also to be ascended by stairs Within are seen many fair Pillars and Arches upon which the Roof leans and the inside of the Walls is all laid with white and blew Tiles of Porceline Right before the Door within the first Court stands a fair Pyramid of a reasonable Height There is also a very fair Plesure-garden adjoyning to this Palace Not far from thence is also a fair Arch but somthing dilapidated resting upon 2 Columns or Obelisks 162 Foot high About an English Mile and a half without Town are to be seen the Relicts of a Gate which they say was built by Sultan Choddabende whence it appears that the Extent of this City has been very great althô as was said is now not very great nor much frequented by Trading People subsisting mostly by the Caravans after which they long as greedily as a Landlord for Quarter day Five days we tarried in Sultante to rest having almost tired our Camels and Horses which by that time were again in a travailing Condition During our aboad here I was shorn after the Persian fashion and could pass Muster for a Musulman and with more freedom visit what was worthy of remark and by them reputed sacred being thereto perswaded by my Companion who was a Russ called Ferrath and that I might not be bewray'd by my speech he bad me counterfeit my self dumb and when occasion serv'd to make signs he taking upon him to interpret for me which at once both secured me from Affronts and gave me the occasion to see their Sanctuaries which was refused many Georgians notwithstanding considerable Sums they had proffered to see the Sepulchres On the 7 th we set out and came at night to Syllebek where we took up our Nights-lodging having this day very good way and with all pleasant for on each side were fair Meadows Pasture and Corn-fields and by the way many neat villages with Orchards Gardens and Summer-Houses which made the Time seem short and the Journey no way taedious Leaving Syllebek we came the next day at night to Choramdeky which for it's many Gardens seems to be a Paradise It is also watered with a good River which glides thrô the Town and by a Serpentine course thrô the Fields round about the City renders the Earth more fertile and of a very good soil insomuch that this is one of the most delightfull places we had hitherto seen The People confoâ—mable to the place they inhabit gave us great Satisfaction and weâ— very sociable and friendly to converse withall On the Ninth we set forward again and came at night to thâ— City Caswin which is a Town of no small repute It is situated in 3 degr 15 min. Northerly Latitude lying in the Countrey of Erâ— upon a level but dry and sandy ground having on the West
Scorpion and a kind of fell Spiders which are a powerfull Poyson with the strange manner of Cure for the same Their Arrival at Natens A Faulcon fights and conquers an Eagle EIght days long stayd we in Caswin and departed thence on the 17 of December coming at night to the Village Membere where all the Houses are built round so that at a distance they appeared like so many Pigeon-Cotes The Town its self is well stored with Necessaries and affoarded us what we had occasion for On the 18 we came to the Village Areseng which is situated in a very pleasant Countrey and withall fertile affoarding good store of Fruit as Pomegranats Oranges Lemmons and other Summer Fruits then out of season Here we thought good to take up our Nights Lodging On the 19 we betook our selvs to our Journey and that day travailed about 24 English Miles over a high but level way coming towards night to the great Carawansera called Choskeru This is a very commodious and large Inn built altogether of square stones within is a spacious Court where was a Fountain of very good Water the Rooms and Appartments were no less commodious On the Walls I found several Dutch Polish and Russian Names and also wrote my own On the 20 we had a very pleasant days Journey through a delightfull Landship very close inhabited and full of Villages and Hamlets coming at night to a Carawansera where we took up our Lodging for that night and the next day set forward for Saba which is a City lying in 34 degr and 56 min. in a plain Field having on the West the Mountains of Elivend which for their exceeding heighth may be seen many Miles distant Saba is far less than Caswin but is munited with a Brick Wall which Bricks are not burned as ours but only hardned with the Sun Within the City is nothing worthy of remark but all lies wast and foul They drive no Trade here than what is usually don in Villages and mean Market Towns to wit Wheat and Barley which is both plentifull and to be had at a low price Fruits as Pomegranats Oranges Lemmons Grapes and other sorts which grow aswell within as without the Town There is a place not far from Saba where the Ground is red and barren which the Persians say was by reason that Omarzaad within whose Jurisdiction this Place was had murthered their Holy Hosseyn and for this reason it was cursed by Mahomet for his Posterities sake that it should never bring forth either Herb or Tree nor that any Vegetable should like or thrive being transplanted On the Southeast side of the Town grows abundance of Tobacco but not cultivated or planted which is no small profit to the Inhabitants On the 24 we departed from Saba and at night set down at the Carawansera Schach Ferabath It was now good travailing by reason of the Cold which in this hot Climate is very acceptable being not far from the Torrid Zone where in the Summer time besides the scorching heat of the Sun the Ground is so hot that it brings all the Skin off ones Feet the ways being altogether dry and sandy which also casts a reflection of the Sun upon ones Face as if it came out of a Furnace whence many are stifled with the Heat On the 25 we came to the City Khom and took up our Lodging in a Carawansera near to the great Maydan This seems to be a City of an ancient standing and is at present very large but by the Ruins of a Wall a considerable distance from the Town it appears that it has bin anciently much larger than now it is It lies in 34 degr 17 min. Northerly Latitude and is situate on a level flat Ground having on the right hand the Mountains of Elivend whence issue two Rivers which run thrô this City first uniting themselvs a litle above the Town In the Winter they lay a Bridge over it but in the Summer it is some times dry Near this Bridge stands a litle Chappel wherein they say the Sister of one Iman Risa who was one of the most eminent Successors of Mahomet lies interred The Persians have also a special veneration for this Female Saint and make long Pilgrimages to kiss her Tomb. However the City Khom has many fair and spacious Streets with many Piazzas and Galleries to defend from Sun and Rain They have also great plenty of Fruit as at Saba as also Cotton and Tobacco which grows here in no less plenty than at Saba aforesaid Besides the many rare Fruits and Plants they have there is an excellent sort of Melons having the outward form and colour of an Orange and is oftentimes taken for one but being cut up appears within as another Melon These they commonly carry in the Hand for the delicate flavour but have no very acceptable or delicious Tast They have also an odd kind of Cucumber about 18 or 20 Inches long but small which they pickle much after the manner we do ours and use 'em for Sauce They have also the common sort of Melons which we commonly call Musk-millions that far surpass ours for Delicacy Khom is a place very considerable in regard of Traffic this being eminent for Swords Knives Armorers and Cutlers Works Some of our Company bought here Scymiter Blades for which they paid to the value of 20 Crowns a piece yet were not those of the best sort The Steel they have from Niris near Ispahan where are several Mines Besides the Smiths work their chief Manufactory is Potts there being many Fullers who are esteemed the best in Persia and their work praeferred before Porceline which is transmitted all over the Countrey The Inhabitants are sociable and friendly enough to converse withall when you have not much to loose but we were warned to look well about us for they say that they are brought into the World with their Fist doubled My Patron lost here 2 new Scymiters he had lately bought and I a Tobacco box Six days long stay'd the Caravan here during which time there was much Merchandise negotiated Here I was cruelly pestered with a Greek Renegado who continually rail'd upon me crying You faithless Dog you Infidel c. The Fellow had so often affronted me with these and the like Words that I was no longer able to endure him but finding an opportunity I grasp'd him by the Collar and trounc'd him lustily off with my Fist and at last getting him down I pummeld him back and sides saying You varlet now you shall find the Fist of a Man and not the Paw of a Dog He seeing himself unable to get up again drew out his Knife which he indeavored to run into my Belly but I observing got it wrested out of his Hands althô not without a litle slash or two on the Palm of my Hand with which I gave him an Excellent Cross in the Cheek that he looked like St. Agnes of Monte Sante withall telling him
Hawk where the last after a long Encounter came off with Victory It began now to freez harder and harder as also to snow so that we were fain to stay 3 Day at Natens during which time we made good Cheer and spared not our Proviands which we had taken up by the way having now got sight of the Royal City Ispahan On the 17 th we left Natens and that Day had very rocky ground to drive over and by the way stop'd at a famous Carawansera called Dombi where we rested and refreshed our selvs and at night were fain to set down at Ruk a Village not far from Ispahan by reason of the snow remaining there also the most part of the next day CHAP. XXXI Arrival at Ispahan Their Reception with the Dutch Resident A Rélation of the Stability of Anthony Munster who was urged to imbrace Mahometanism his Death and Burial The Manner and Situation of the Dutch Lodge The Situation of Ispahan it 's Greatness Rivers running thrô the same The Aqueduct a mighty work of Schach Abas The Streets of Ispahan Maydan and Basar Fair Arches and Galleries The Sumptuous Mestzid of Schach Abas Dowlet or Schach-Chane the Royal Pallace The Divan-Chane or Court of Justice The Hiram-Chane or Palace of the Kings Concubines Allycarpi a Sanctuary or place of Refuge Carawanseras Taverns Cahwae-Chane Coffee-Houses Persian Saints and Philosophers Remal and Falkil two sorts of Sooth-sayers Their strange and ridiculous way of presaging The Kaysery or Gallerie of Shops HAving stay'd the most part of 2 Days at Ruk we set forward again and on the 19 we came to the long-wishd-for Ispahan Where being arrived I longed greedily to see my Countrey-men and went to my good Master Hadsi Byram to take my leav of him with a Thousand Thanks for his many Favours I desired him also to let som go with me to show me the Dutch Lodge which he with great willingness assented to and sent one of his Slaves with me Thus I went with Monsr Lewis Fabritius and Christian Brandt to the Lodge where for that time the Heer Frederic Bent of Enkhuysen was Chief Factor for the East India Company Monsr Kasenbroot of Rheenen Second or Under-Factor and Mr. Hubert Balde of Amsterdam Assistant When we came at the Gate we found a Black who was the Porter and spoke very good Nether-Dutch whom we desired to make our coming known which when he had don we were admitted in and very friendly received by the said Gentlemen who invited us to stay there which without much refusal we accepted with many Thanks They brought us forthwith into a very stately Room hung with Tapestry and furnished with Beds where we lay and had also Victuals and Firing provided us with what else was necessary Besides that they show'd us all imaginable Friendship and Divertisements taking great delight to hear our many Evasions and Deliverances from such hard Adventures I have elswhere advised how that being at Scamachi we had a Letter from one of our Company to which was set no name yet praesumed that it was from Anthony Munster the Jeweller The certainty thereof I understood here as also how he was brought to Ispahan Being com to Ispahan his Patron wrought very hard upon him to renounce Christianity and embrace the Mahometan Faith promising him upon his so doing to esteem him for his Son to giv him one of his Daughters in Marriage and a considerable Dowry beyond what was customary in those Lands All these the young Man declined saying that neither Promises nor Threats should ever praevail with him and therefore begg'd of him to rest contented His Patron finally marking that he was not flexible to espouse that Religion he began to pester and oppress him with all manner of Cruelty that he could invent insomuch that he became very Melancholic and at last lost his Sences in which condition he made his Escape into the Dutch Lodge whicâ— he took up for his Sanctuary and was kindly received by the Heeâ— Bent who held him so long in private till he had obtained his Freedom from the King Yet still continued this Frenzy with him till he died only som say that by certain Expressions he made about the Eternity of the Soul he was sensible of himself a little before his Death He was buried with a more than ordinary Pomp considering the meanness of his Person as to outward Estate but was highly set by for his perseverance and constancy in the Christian Faith His outward Qualities were very commendable being of a handsom stature fair Complexion and in every Way and Gesture very taking nor was he less to be praised for the internal Faculties of the Mind and Soul being very conscientious and just in all his dealings and withall pious His sweet Manners and Conversation was such that those who had the left converse with him were very sorry for his untimely or to speak more properly his early Death he not being fully 26 years of Age. The Dutch Lodge is a very fair Building not far from the Kings Palace having many fair Appartments Ware-houses and other Conveniences for reposing Merchandizes The many fair Rooms it has are furnished with all necessary Moveables beyond those of the Persians and far more costly Behind the House is a fair and spacious Garden having all sorts of Fruit-trees proper to that and other Climats as also a great Vineyard and an Arboret or Nursery for young Trees In the middle is to be seen a very noble Fountain dispersing it's water in various Figures in the Air to an admirable height surpassing most Water-works that I have seen in Europe The Hollanders live there very splendidly to uphold the Honour of the East India Company and go in the Persian Habit as also their Waiters and Attendants who are mostly Turks and Moors and because I was to go for Gameron they gave me a new Persian Suit which I was to take with me In the mean while I had work enough to satisfy their curiositie with frequent rehearsals of what had befallen me in my foregoing Voyages to the Indies and the Levant Ispahan called also Isphahan lies in 32 degr and 26 min. in the Countrey of Erak formerly called Parthia It is situated in a level and plain Landship environed on every side with Mountains at a considerable distance as the Mountains of Demawend on the South and South-west Masanderan and Jeylak Persan on the North-east This is the greatest City that I have seen in all Persia being with it's Suburbs and all 16 hours going in circuit about 48 English Miles It is but very weakly fortified the Walls being only of Earth and sloaping inward so that at Top they are not above 6 Foot thick the Trench or Ditch is also very narrow and in the Summer so shallow that the Children wade through it and somtimes it is wholly dry so that this City seems to â—ear no Enemy or forreign Invasion trusting to the potency and number of
going out of this Church you enter thrô an Arch into a magnificent Hall where stands a Pulpit and an Altar which said place for sumptuousness and uniformity of structure is reputed the most costly Building and most glorious Fabric in the whole Emarath All the Marble whereof it is built seeming to outvy the Snow its self for whiteness is brought hither not without vast trouble and Charges from the Mountains of Elivend The Kings Palace called Dowlet or Schach Chane is also a very stately House Before you enter the outer Gate is a large Plain on which are many Pieces of old Brass Ordnance unfit for use and are only thrown together on heaps and out of order a true Embleme of such Persons as have in the Flower of their Youth been serviceable to their Prince and Commonwealth but growing old and impotent becom Abjects and are laid aside The Palace 't is true is munited on every side with a Wall but so meanly that it would not resist a Cannon ball much less secure the Person of the King if attacqued with any sudden Force which is the least thing they dread By day the utmost Gate is only guarded with 4 Sentinels but at night by 15 Halberdiers and in the Bed-Chamber of the King 30 young Gentlemen being mostly the Sons of great Personages in whom the King reposes most Confidence Every night the Kischiktzchi or Captain of the Guards brings the King a List of their Names who are to stand upon the Ward the night following Within the Palace are several great Halls or Appartments amongst which the Tabchane and the Diwan-Chane are the chiefest The former being the Banquetting House and the latter the Court of Justice In the Diwan-Chane Ambassadors are always received and thence introducted into the Chamber of Audience the more because the Glory of the Cavalcade and other Solemnities can be here the better seen Another Appartment which is not much inferior to those already made mention of is the Haram-Chane where the King diverts himself with his Wives and Concubines The Dekay is the Place where the King retires and has his Residence when not ingaged in any important Affair holding here his Table with his legitimat Wives In short there are many other Appartments within the Palace for inferior Concerns Behind the Palace is a Garden which they call the Chobbadar in the middle whereof is a beautifull little Chappel Here is also the great Sanctuary or Place of Refuge which they call Allycarpi which is as much as to say Gods Gate in which Place a Malefactor is free from Justice There is also another such Place of Refuge on the other side of the Maydan called Tzechil Sutun so called from 40 huge massy Beams that rest upon one Pillar standing in the middle and so support the Roof Hither it was whither the Persians fled when the Town was taken in by the great Tamerlan and opposed him again but he breaking in with violence put all to the sword save those that had got into the interior Temple or Metzid for which he had such a veneration that he would not violate the Institutions of Mahomet or pollute the Sanctuary with Blood On the North side of the Maydan are many Taverns and Tap-houses and among those a House greatly frequented by Traders called the Tzaychatti-Chane or Thee-house which they prepare quite after another manner than the Indians of whom the Europeans first had it for here they put in so many aromatical Ingredients that one can neither perceiv any Taste or Smell of Tee in it In drinking Tee they also accustom themselvs to Play and especially at Chess at which they are very quick and expert The Coffee-houses they call Cahwa-Chane where they only go to drink Coffee and smoke Tobacco with which they are so deeply affected that they somtimes smoke in the Church When they are within doors they have a great Glass full of water thrô which they put their Pipes and smoke much after the manner of an Alembric Still which renders it very cool When they draw the water bubbles up as if it boyled yet by reason of a stinking vapour that rises from it is very annoysom But when they smoke along the street have only such a Pipe as those which are now grown common in the Low-Countreys being of several joynts and the Head of Earth Their Coffee they drink very hot and are 〈◊〉 opinion that it sedates and asswages their Lust to Women whic◠make their Wives ready to protest against it rather willing tha◠their Husbands should transgress against the Alchoran and use th◠Juyce of the Grape than that Arabian Berry The chief Custome◠which those Public Houses have are the Barbers who frequent◠haunt them to be imploy'd in shaving their Heads but every ma◠that is able to buy a Rasor always carries one about with him bein◠very fearfull of the Venereal Murrain which they call Keschi and w◠the French Pox or som such thing But quaint is the Habit and more strange the Customs of the◠Clergy and such as are under any Spiritual Order who notwithstanding their vain and palpable Fooleries have drawn themsel◠into a great esteem of the Laïty of all degrees These abstain fro◠Wine live an austere life and never marry till they grow very old Som go in a long course Robe others half naked and a third f◠only with a Skin girded about their middle They go about the Streets and when they come to any large Place as the Maydan Basar or th◠like sit down and with a most hideous yelling convoke an Auditory which being assembled they make a kind of a hortatory Oration which notwithstanding the Scope or End contains little else tha◠a commemoration of the great and worthy Acts of Aly and alwai◠at Peroration vilify and curse the Turkish Saints Omar Osman an◠Abubeker but more eagerly against the dogmatical Decrees of th◠Ubec-Tartars But those of that nation being of late years grown ver◠numerous at Ispahan assumed the boldness to oppose them for whic◠end the King has allowed those Worthies to go armed with Hatchets as at present they do and have free Toleration to knock any man down that shall offer to interrupt them They have one only Monastery or Coenobium where they all live together which was built them at the Charges of the present King and have also a considerable Sum allowed them for their maintenance besides what they gather from the People by mumping or rather Mountebanking On the West side about Dowlet-Chane are all the Sooth-sayers of which there be two sorts to wit Remal and Falkir both which are in their practise more ridiculous than our circumventing Gypsies and consequently not worth my Pains to recount nor the Readers Patience to hear of ' em In going from the Maydan to the Northward you find a way which leads you to the Basan where is a very stately Kayserie full of Shops and those stored with very rich
commodities This Market consists in a certain number of Streets that are mostly arched over Hither repair Merchants of all Nations except Persians alone as Indians Tartars Turks Armenians Georgians as also English French Italians Hollanders and other Europeans Their way of Dealing is altogether for Money nothing by Barter Abas is the most plentifull coin in use among them valuing somthing less than an English Shilling and the Schach Abas which is half the value of the other the latter is also mostly called Choddabende They do not use much Gold but abundance of Copper which they call Pull 40 of which Pieces make an Abas The Europeans who com thither bring commonly Rix-dollars which the Persians once getting into their Hands will by no means part with them for they are diligently sought up by the Money-changers who bring them to the Serab-Chane or Mint and make a considerable profit of them CHAP. XXXII Taberik Kale the Treasurie of the Kingdom The Suburbs of Ispahan Tziulfa a place where the Armenian Christians have their Residence Tabrisabath Hassenabath Kebrabath so called from Kebber Persians that are still Pagans Tzarbag The Nature of the Persians Property of the Land Celebration of the Epiphany by the Armenian Christians ISpahan as it is a Royal City of so considerable a Monarchy and one of the first magnitude so it has a great concourse of Strangers from all Countreys in the World so that above all other Vocations the Inn-keepers generally thrive the best and by their great doings accommodate all Persons to their full Content The Carawanseras here are more sumptuous by far than either those of Caswin or any other City in Persia They are for the most part square som of them having 4 or 5 Galleries abov one another and those furnished with very commodious Appartments and for their better Security for Theeves are surrounded with high Stone Walls In Ispahan are also many fair Buildings besides what are already remembred amongst which the Taberik Kale or Fort Royal where the Kings Tresury is is one of the most eminent situated between the Palace and the Mestzid Mehedi which is both munited with strong Walls guarded continually with a sufficient Body of Soldiery and has plenty of Brass Cannon The same also serves for a Magazin or Repository of Armory There are also two fair Christian Monasteries the one for the Carmelites and the other for Augustin Monks These with many other fair Buildings too taedious to recount are within the Walls There are also many splendid Piles of Buildings without in the Suburbs which they call the Rhabath In the Suburbs are two eminent Wards to wit Tzulfa and Ciulfa mostly or altogether inhabited by the Armenian Christians who are reputed the ablest Merchants in Ispahan being transported hither by Schach Abas from their own Countrey and have since injoyed sundry Immunities and have a Governour of their own which they call Daruga who must bring up 200 Tumain yearly contribution to the King which is taken out of their Public Stock The private Dwelling-Houses of those Armenians do equal or rather surpass those within Walls for splendid structure On the one side of the River Senderut is another Place called Tabri or Abas-Sabath for that Schach Abas had allotted the People of Tabris this Part of the Town to dwell in Another Ward or Quarter of the Suburbs is called Hassenabath which is mostly inhabited by the Georgian Christians commonly called Trurtzi These as well as the Armenians are great Merchants being also highly in favour with the King not only for the vast Tribute which they pay but aswel for their Loyalty and good deportment and these are the only Christians who are tolerated to live within the Walls and have a Quarter of the Town allotted them near the Mestzid Mehedi althô they rather chuse to dwell in the Suburbs that they may be retire from the Calumny of the Mahometans and the better enjoy the Benefits of a Christian Society The Kebrabath is a District of the Suburbs lying on the West side of the City so called from the Kebbers which are a sort of ancient Persian Pagans who following the old opinion of the Persians when they were yet Heathens will not embrace Mahometanism These differ from the rest in Habit as well as in Customs and Religion wearing loose Drawers with a long Coat only fastned at the Collar open at the shoulders Their Hair they let grow all over their Head and Face The Women are attired as the Men only with this difference that they wear a long Silk or Cotton Scarf which trails on the Ground The Language they speak is still the ancient Lingua Persica for they are very curious in preserving their ancient Tongue without any Innovation insomuch that the Persians who speak the modern Language cannot understand them as the English cannot understand the old Brittish or Welsh yet these can both understand and speak the present Persian Tongue They retain also the Ancient Characters and adore the Sun and the Elements for Deïties performing Monethly Sacrifices Besides the veneration they have for the Sun they do worship to the Starrs but have little or no Judgement in the course of the same Snakes and all other venemous Animals they hold for unclean so that whosoever touches any of those whether voluntarily or by accident must not enter into their Temples till he be purified Their Dead they do not burn as most Pagans do but when any Person dies whether it be an Infant or one com to full growth and Maturity they wash the Body very clean and carry it to a Place far distant from any Houses and there set it upright against a Post where they wait till the Ravens com and pick out the one Eie which if it be the right Eie they are of opinion that the Soul of the Departed is in Paradise and therefore interr him very decently but if the Bird pull out his left Eie first then they hold it for a sure Token that he is damned and for his wicked Life to suffer perpetual Torments and therefore esteem him not worthy of such solemn Exequies but cast him head-long into a deep Pit Without the City of Ispahan are many fair Gardens and Summer-houses belonging to the King and divers great Personages The most eminent of all these is the Tzarbag not far from the great Bridge being 4 square and about 2 English Miles in circuit This as was said before is watered with an Aquaeduct that is conveyed under Ground by several small leaden Pipes from the Main and here and there vented by Fountains which force the Water somtimes 36 or 40 foot high On each corner stands a noble Summer House of an admirable rare Fabric The Garden it's self has the most and greatest varieties of Fruit-Trees and Vegetables that ever I have seen althô it was then Winter when I was there And indeed the Persians are great Lovers of Planting Gardening and all manner of Tillage so that there is hardly
a House in all Ispahan but has somthing of a Garden behind it more or less whence it coms that this City is so great in compass As to the manner of their Hous-keeping and other peculiar Customs I hold it needless to treat any thing about since it may be collected out of what I have already said in the foregoing Chapters They are in general very sociable and for their Urbanity towards strangers draw many Forreigners thither They are also Lovers of all kinds of Discipline and the Gentry very ambitious in Arts and Sciences The Land about Ispahan is very fertile and affoards all that is necessary for human sustenance in good plenty But the Town being very populous thrô the great concourse of Strangers from all parts of the World makes all things very dear but especially Fewel insomuch that Wood and Charcoal are sold by the Pound and notwithstanding it may seem to be in a warm climat yet in the Winter it is very cold or at lest so seeming to them who are used to the great heat of the Summer Solstice During the time of my being there they were very busy about gathering their Ice which is got and preserved after this manner First they dig a great Pit in the Earth about 40 Foot deep which they encompass with a Wall about 10 Fathom high which is commonly made of Clay but that side next to the North is lower than the rest that the cool North Winds may allay the violent Heat of the Sun then they dig or plow certain furrows in the Plains round about which when it freezes they set all over with Water and so gather the Ice and when they have enough cover it with straw This Ice is very common in use among the richer sort in the Summer time not only for cooling the Wines but aswell for lying upon their Dishes of Fruit when they are brought up to the Table which is only laid on a heap in the middle of the Dish and so dissolves it self through all the Fruit. This is reckoned for a good commodity if it be a hot Summer and is sold as well along the Streets as in Houses On the 16 of February was the Epiphany celebrated by the Armenian and Georgian Christians So soon as I heard what was the matter I rose pretty early in the morning with intent to see the Solemnity of the Day The first I met was the Jesaulcor or Great Marshal with all his subordinat Officers who were ordered to prevent Tumults and not to suffer Horses and Camels with any Burthens to pass over the Bridges and thrô the Streets that lead to Tzulfa and Tzarbag which was not only don for the sake of the Christians but upon the account of one of the Kings legitimat Wives whom he entirely loved being a Georgian by birth and educated in the Christian Religion and had a desire to go and see the Solemnities performed which the King would not deny her for that she was great with Child About 8 in the morning were all the Christian Ladies in Balconies which were all hung with Tapestry and those of the greatest rank with Canopies over head Those of meaner degree sate on each side the River Senderus and had a Guard of Soldiers under the Command of an Officer to secure them from being abused by the Mahometans and to suffer no Men to crowd in upon them About 9 assembled all those under Spiritual Orders and the Clergy belonging to the 10 Churches of Tzulpha and the 2 Churches of Ispahan Those were all attired in white Stoles and Capps of Cloth of Gold upon their Heads with long Labels hanging down to their middle but more gorgeous was the Attire of the Patriarch being all over richly embroydered with Gold and adorned with costly Gems Every Priest carried a Silver Cross hung with litle Silver Bells and Basons The Crosses which were carried by those of higher degrees and in the formost Ranks were supported each by 3 Men. The Inferior Clergy followed after with lighted Tapours in their Hands accompanied with the most eminent of the Laïty The Superior Monks of Ispahan adjoyned themselvs to the Patriarch 5 of them bearing up his Pontifical Robes 2 on each side and one behind About one a clock came the King mounted on a stately Arabian Horse without any considerable Retinu save only the Chancelor and Grand Marshal the the Guards and the rest of the Court having order to keep behind the Procession The Begum or Queen before mentioned was carried before as a privat Gentlewoman in a Sedan to a great Merchants house accompany'd only with one Gentlewoman the Master of the Eunuchs and 4 of his Company for the King ever reposes great Confidence in the Christians and esteems them as the most loyal of all his Subjects as appears by his adventuring his person among them without any Guards But before the Procession was ended it began to snow very hard which did not only cause the King to leav them but put a stop to the further Celebration of this great Festival which by the preparations seemed to be intended to be solemnized with very great Pomp for besides the Contribution of all the Christians who as I have elsewhere noted are very rich the King sends the Patriarch a considerable Sum of Money som time before in order to the carrying on and maintaining this anniversary Custom The Patriarch and Superior Clergy seeing there was no hopes of the Weather growing better they departed without performing the ritual Ceremonies but the Laïty continued Dancing and Singing all the Night long In the mean while the Caravan was in a readiness to depart for Gammeron and the Heer Bent gave order for Horses and Camels to be bought up for us to carry our Provision and Baggage He also took care to buy us all Necessaries we had occasion for on our Journey and was pleased to appoint me as Caffil Abassi or Overseer of the Provision About this time it frose very hard and as I not without wondring saw Ice 3 Foot thick which was averred never to be known in that Countrey in any mans Age. How hard a season it was for poor People may be gathered from what I have already said how scarce all kind of Fewel is is Ispahan CHAP. XXXIII The great Civility of Hadsi Biram The Authors Departure out of Ispahan Their incommodous Travelling thrô the Snow Wells and Pits of Water abounding with Fish They are much incommodated in their Travailing The Caravan assailed by Robbers Their Superstitious horrour of Swines Flesh Sepulchre of Schach Solyman's Mother The Sepulchre of Noah his Wife Children and Childrens Children Tzilminar The Pompous Relicts and Ruins of the famous Persepolis and the noble Fort thereof The Statue of Rustan a Persian Champion ON the 17 of February we had order to make ready for our Journey wherefore that morning I went to return my hearty Thanks to my good Master Hadzi Byram where coming and finding him at
observe were much stronger than theirs yet if we had not bin unanimous and faithfull to one another we had not com so well of for there was not one Man from the greatest to the least but fought manfully and with a good â—ill till the very last when they ran into another Room and shut â—e Door after them which was no small advantage to us for when â—e had them so pen'd up we knew our selvs secure there being no â—ther Passage for them to com out at The Door we barricado'd in â—ith huge Stones and with all our Carbines and Blunderbusses â—oured in shot upon them so long till they began to beg for Quarter â—hich we resolved not to giv them but promised them the liberty 〈◊〉 com forth and to stand to our mercy In the mean while we had â—bserved that several of them lay dead and wounded After they had consulted a while among themselvs they resolved to comforth but we refused to let them com all together but one by one keeping a narrow watch at the Door that they should not rush out altogether Having got them out they were very patient and suffered us to ty them back to back Those that were wounded we killed outright and and when it began to be light we set forward on our Journey taking the rest being abov 20 along with us and coming to a Grove of Date-Trees there hung them up by the heels and stripping off their Cloaths â—ashed off their Noses Ears and Hands which we nailed to a Tree as Monuments and Relicts of Roguery and left the Bodies hanging How we came to be so happy as to conquer those Villains was no small wonder to me since there was never a man among the Company that fought with any other Order than as his Courage led him so that we see what som will do and can atchieve when Life and Goods lie at the stake Their Punishment 't is true was severe enough to let them die a lingring Death but the Loss of our Companions was so precious to us that could we but have bethought a harder they had bin sure tâ— have gon that way to pot and not have had the opportunity to preâ— upon Passengers again Having performed the Hangmans Office we went to our Cameâ— and Caravan leaving the Bodies there for an Example to their Coâ—panions The way proved very hilly and uneaven wast and rocky being of a hard Flint-Stone and indeed so uneasy that we had muâ— ado to get all the Camels and Horses forward som weary and readâ— to lay down others stumbling and others straying for the way was no beat However in the Evening after 4 Dutch miles Travail we got Carawansera and there resolved to take our rest Here about we saâ— great Flocks of Partridges which Father Felisello who was passiâ— dextrous with a Birding-piece went out to shoot and brought 〈◊〉 many as served us for supper which we illustrated with a Glass of dâ—licat Scyras Wine CHAP. XXXV The incommodous Travelling over Mountains They com into an Inn or Carawanseâ— where they are well entertained Arrival at Lar. A Description of that Towâ— The Vnwholsomness of the Air and water there The Inhabitants given 〈◊〉 Hospitality and Lovers of all kinds of Discipline and Science Mummay Kobâ— a pretious Balsam Remarkable Monuments of Robbers executed Departâ— from Lar. They meet with another Troop of Robbers whereof 7 are killed They are overtaken by Monsr Kasenbroot Their Arrival at Gamron THe next morning being the 12 of March we got all in a reâ—diness in order to our Journey and had very steep and dangâ—rous rocky hills to clamber over insomuch that we durst not keâ— a Horse-back but were fain to allight and lead the greatest part of tâ— way being in danger if the Horses should happen to stumble to 〈◊〉 dasht in pieces upon the sharp Flints which were terrible to look at in respect of their acuity and sharpness These are a part of that Circâ— of hills which encompass the famous Taurus This day we advanceâ— 5 Dutch Miles and got a good Carawansera On the 13 we betook our selvs to our Journey and about 3 in the After-noon got to a Carawansera Father Felisello finding herâ— som sheep to be sold bought a Lamb which althô it was in the Fast he was resolved to Feast of saying that all Meats was dispenced with a Travailer who must eat what he can and not what he will But this being the Birth-day of the good Father he was resolved to celebrate it with a good supper which indeed we had and drunk good store of Wine to boot in which we remembred the Catholic King and his Royal Highness the Prince of Orange in several healths and that to such a Mesure that we were in as good as mood a those Potentates themselvs could be in short we were so moistned within that we slept that night without much care On the 14 in the morning betimes we set forward and passed by several Pitts which were digged through from one to another under ground so that the water ran through them all The same Pits were well stored with Carps and other Fish which our Company angled for and took several which served us for a Novelty at night these Pitts or rather Ponds were convey'd by a channel or narrow Conduit to a great Stone Cistern which was near to a Carawansera where we took our Nights rest having that day travelled 5 Dutch Miles On the 15 th about Noon we came into the Village Barry where we â—et down and stay'd there 2 Days finding our selvs unable to go any further without a Pause and the Camels and other Beasts almost wearied out understanding moreover that we had very hilly and rocky way to pass over This day we had only advanced 4 Miles Dutch On the 18 th betimes in the morn we left Barry and clambered up a very steep Hill meeting by the way som Gentlemen that were diverting themselvs with the Hawk which there as well as in Europe is held for a noble Game and not a Gentleman but has his Faulcon In the Afternoon we got the height of the Hill where we found a very old Man who neither combed nor shaved his Hair but let it grow negligently so that it looked like a Mop. This Man as we understood afterwards was one that lived a Heremitical and austere Life being reputed for a Saint among the Inhabitants The said Hermite came to me and begged that I would give him a pipe of Tobacco which I did and got his Prayers for it Having that day travelled 6 Leagues we came pretty late in the Evening to a Carawansera On the 19 we travailed through a most pleasant Valley where we saw many Boors Cottages and great groves of Date-trees on the right hand and on the left We called at a Boors house and would have bought of them som Milk but the People would take no Money for it They asked
me from whence I came I told them from Surwan Scamachy but that being a place they had never heard of in their lives asked me further if that were as far as Ispahan I told them it was more than twice as far at which they greatly wondred thinking that I must needs com from the utmost bounds of the World these being a poor ignorant People and never travail farther than their Market Town which is a little Grange in the Valley and never heard tell of any Countrey than their own in short they would have had me to stay longer with them but my Time was too precious to spend in answering all they would have asked me At night we came to the City Laar where we took up our Resting place in the Dutch Lodge where we found very good Convenience and only an old Man and a Woman to look to the House and assist the Caravans who were set there by the Company Here I got the Chests and Cases repaired that were broken and endamaged by the often falling of the Camels thrô the rocky way Laar or Lar is a pretty big Town but has no Walls to resist or endure a strong siege save only such as are made of Bricks that are dry'd in the Sun but is reasonably strong in respect of its Scituation as well as for the Fort or Castle which is built upon a Hill on the North-side the Walls thereof are of solid stone and the Fort it self so seated that it can command the whole Town having one narrow Passage to enter it which is very steep it is supplyed with several pieces of great Ordnance which the King sent hither from Ormus when by the help of the English he took that City in About Laar grow abundance of Date-trees but no Wine and by reason that they have no Commerce or Traffic abroad but poor must supply themselvs with Water which as well as the Air here about is very unwholsom insomuch that many times Strangers who are to make use of it for want of Wine fall sick and are tormented with a small Worm but long which breeds between the Skin and the Flesh and cannot be taken out without great pain They show'd me one that was above 5 Foot long and not so thick as an ordinary Goos-quill The Inhabitants of Laar are very free and sociable to converse withall and great Lovers of Sciences and Learning Not far from the Castle is a certain Rock out of which issues a very precious Balsem called by the Persians Mummay Kobas This Balsem or Oil is gathered only in the Moneth of June about which time it runs stillatim or drop by drop out at a Vein The said Rock from whence it coms is continually guarded with a strict Watch by Order of the King and none is suffered to touch it upon pain of Death This Oil is reckoned and well known by experience to be the greatest Antidot against Poyson in the World althô never so strong and is therefore held by the King as an inestimable Tresure and never suffered to be exported out of his Dominions The King also willing to show any of his Subordinat Princes and Deputies an extraordinary and high Favour always sends them a few drops thereof to make it the greater in esteem and value and with one injoyns them not to send it out of the Kingdom upon pain of his displesure Without Laar are erected several Pillars for Monuments of the Execution of several Robbers who had made the high Ways unfree to Travel Half of their Bodies are set up on these Pillars and the other half buried in the Ground being cut asunder whilst they are still alive Having tarried here 3 Nights and 2 Days we set forward on the 22 and had very bad and rocky way We saw here great Flocks of wild Swine whereof our Company shot 2 with their Hand-guns but durst not fetch them for fear of the Persians that threatned to leav us if we did for they loath them more than Toads We also shot several Eagles which notwithstanding they prey upon the Pigs the Persians fed heartily upon them This day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles which we thought more than a diëta rationabilis or an ordinary Stage in regard of the badness of Way and Weather and at night had a good Carawansera On the 23 we broke up and passed by a fair Town called Pharate which we left on the right hand The said Town was pleasantly seated in the middest of a Grove of Date-Orange-and Lemmon Trees By the way we met with a Party of Robbers who furiously set upon us but finding themselves too weak betook themselvs to flight leaving 7 Dead behind them We also lost 2 Men of our Company that were outright killed in this Bickering and had six wounded The Dead we buried near the Way and bound up the wounded At night we came to a small Village called Sarap where we took up our nights rest having that day advanced 6 Miles On the 24 we set forward again and at night came to a great Village which we took up for our Stage having a fair and spacious Carawansera in it We had no sooner disburthened the Camels but had 50 or 60 Women who came and proffered us Milk to sell and were so importunat and troublesom that we could not get rid of 'em till we set the Doggs upon them These went all with their Face uncovered which I had not seen any Honest Women in all Persia do except in one Village between Scamachy and Ispahan This day we had furthered our Journey by 7 Miles On the 25 we had a great and wearisom Mountain to travail over at the Foot whereof was a River which we were forced to wade thrô by reason that the stone-bridge which had formerly lain over it was broken down After we had travailed 5 Dutch Miles we took up ou◠nights rest in a Carawansera But we could here get no manner of Refreshment the Countrey round about being dry and barren producing nothing but Date-trees that we could see On the 26 towards night we came to a Grange of Fisher-men of whom we bought a few for our use We were no sooner set down but came Monsr Kasenbroot with his Slaves riding into the Town being sent for from Ispahan to Suratte The night being very still we could easily hear the rushing of the main Ocean That day we had travailed 7 Miles On the 27 we went onwards and about Noon came to a Carawansera which lay close to the shore and could see Ships a sailing which filled me with a more than ordinary Joy not having seen such a comfortable sight in a long time Hence we saw Gammeron and could distinctly discern the English and Dutch Flaggs fly abroad that were planted upon the Lodges However we thought good to tarry there that night having only advanced 4 Dutch Miles that we might enter Gammeron the fore part of the Day On the 28 for the
his Mess-Mates hoping that it would go no further but it was not long before it came to the Captains Ear who without the lest warning came and commanded the Chest to be broken up where he found the Stones and gave the Ass half a Hundred Blows on the Ribbs for his pains and so was I bereaved of the last and best Tresure I had The only thing they left me was my Papers and Journal which was not without much Intreaty a poor Abstract for so many years Misery having inclusivly no more to thank nay much less the Christians than the Mahometans and Pagans save for my Slavery for which I may not blame any in particular it being a general Rule among them to convert such as they hold for Heteredox to Slaves Thus being newly delivered out of one misery I was immediatly involved in another and so far might this despair have wrought witâ— me that had it not bin the Goodness of GOD to indue me withâ— more laudable and a more pious Principle I could have willingly thrown my self praecipitantly out of the World being weary of Life and as unwilling to embrace the greatest Solace that can be expected yea or enjoyed in this wearisom Pilgrimage to the Grave which puts an end to all corporal Afflictions and the Haven whither we are all a failing howsoever we be provided for that Spiritual Mart. Nor do I doubt but that those who shall have the Patience to read these Memorials will imagine my Misery to have bin great Bâ— I farther praesume that they in the most earnest contemplation of thiâ— Schaeme of anxiferous and calamitous Events that from time to time have befallen me will never be such real Compatients as to surve the amaritude of my Sufferings by the Scale of their Thoughts and Censures Yet welcom most welcom be the Decrees of the most glorious LORD of Life and HE out of his immense Bounty grant me patience to suffer what he is pleased to inflict upon me how severe so ever it be Eight days before our Arrival there had the English taken in the Island being forced to put in there for want of Water not knowing any thing to the contrary but that it was still in possession of their own Nation and were sent out to convoy their East-India Ships howeward but coming into the Bay were not a little surprised that they were saluted with Balls in stead of loose Powder However the English were resolved to com ashoar som way or other for they were destitute of Water all the 7 Ships of War and the Merchant-men with the Fire Ship hardly able to make out 15 Hogsheads of Water and were besides that at a great loss for Refreshments having been long off at Sea to and again The Admiral therefore gave command to attempt an entrance at the South side of the Island where it was so narrow that they could not go abov 4 in a rank insomuch that if the Hollanders could have missed so many men out of the Fort might have knockt them all down with Stones with 50 or 60 Men so that the English invaded the Island unmolested The Governour seeing that they were surprised and he unable to defend himself against so great a Power surrendred upon Articles and Composition This was the Relation of the English On the 4 of June the English got two Ships more of the 5 that followed us with another coming from Ceylon who not knowing any thing to the contrary but that the Hollanders were still Masters of the Island came sailing without any dread directly thither from the Cape For the English had planted the Princes Flag aloft and a Red Flag on the High way which was a privat Token that the Hollanders had among themselves When I remarked what the meaning of all this was and how easily our Ships would be deceived I went to the Shore where I espied the Ships not abov half a Dutch league distant and immediatly pulled of my Shirt and set it upon a Stick that at lest they might begin if they should have the Fortune to see it to consider well with themselvs what such might import but it seemed that they took no notice of it or else did not see it otherwise it had bin time enough for them to have scap'd the Scouring 'T was not long before I was spied by two English Sentinels who came in all hast and beat me after a most lamentable manner which when they had don brought me before the Governour who asked me what I meant by that Token I told him with great liberty That I thought it my duty to warn my Nation from the Peril which they were ready to run in and that I supposed that if I had bin an Englishman and had known them under the like Circumstances I should have don no more than what I was bound to do To which the Governour smiling replied That I did honestly and deserved to be commended but withall charged me not to transgress any more and so let me go without any further Trouble Whence we may learn what difference there is between drinking at the Fountain and drinking at the Current Mean while the Ships came on undauntedly and were hardly sailed within the Bay but descryed a Lyon in an Asses Skin in stead of an Ass in a Lions Skin and discerned a Wolfs Body with a Sheeps Voice the Colours they saw spoke good Dutch but the Ships danced an English Jig wherefore they thought it best to tack about and make all the sail they could which the English perceiving out after them all in a Body and took the Admiral and Vice-Admiral but the Rere-Admiral and the other 2 made their Escape and could not be overtaken The Admiral behaved himself with good courage and had probably not bin taken if his Mizzin Peek had not bin brought by the board The Ship that engaged and took him was the West-Freezlandt being formerly a Dutch Ship and taken by the English in the year .1665 and was now mounted with 54 Guns Our Admiral would fain have boarded her but could not for the English poured incessantly upon them with small shot insomuch that he was fain to yield the Commander himself being wounded in the Leg. The next day we were ordered to go aboard directing our Course for Ascension Island which serv the English for a Rendezvous where we arrived on the 19 of Iune Here the Men went to take Tortoises which are there in very great abundance som of 200 and som 300 lb. weight These Creatures are Amphibious that is to say living as well by water as by land but by night com upon the Strand where they lay their Eggs which are by the heat of the Sun engendred in the sand The Island Ascension lies in 8 degr and 30 min. Southerly Latitude about 40 Leagues from Saint Helena It is altogether rocky and produces nothing of growth having in it high Hills yet not so high as those in Saint Helena The whole
the Sepulchre of an Emperour and 70 Kings 173. Sattiry Boggere an Island at the Mouth of the Wolga taken in by the Cosac Rebells 173. The Rebells erect there a Watch-Tower 185. Sauceages of Bologne how made 72. Savona flu 72. Scabaran a Cape in the Caspian Sea 224. Item a City in Media famous for Rice 237. Scalimene Lemnos so called 91. Scamachi or Sumahi a famous Mart in Media it's Situation 238. Described 239. Very subject to Earth-quakes ibid. Scirwan an eminent Place for great plenty of Silk 2â—3 Scorpions very annoysom at Kaschan 311. Scyro Insul 110. Sierlan an Island 203. Sierras or Scyras described 331. Skorodom a part of Moscou so called 135. Slave market at Ervan 213. At Derbent 238. Slaves how unjustly used by the Turks 80. How used at Derbent 228. And in Moscovia 138. Smeriglio a blackstone of great esteem found at Nicsia 109. Smiowa a Mountain 173. Smolensko 136. Spoon meat much used in Russia 137. Stampalia or Astypalaea one of the Cyclid Islands 109. Standia the Rendevous of the Venetians 103. Stariza taken in by the Cosacks and 1200 Soldiers kill'd 194. Stenko or Stephen Radzin see Radzin Storm at Sea near Xante 74. Sultan of Derbent very favourable to the Hollanders 233. Sultanie a famous Town in Persia described Swiatki 166. Syberia a woody Countrey in Moscovia famous for Furrs 136. The Place of exile for Men that beat their Wives too much 140. T. TAfflis a City in Georgia 249. Taurus Mount. 299. Teil-tree see Linden tree Temple of Jerusalem at Moscou 134. Of Appollo it's Ruins 109. Tenedos besieged by the Venetian Armade and surrendred upon Articles 91. Described ibid. Besieged again by the Turks but in vain 104. Tenos the Castle blown up with its own Powder 110. Terky a Moscoviam City its Situation and present condition 203. Terra Lemnia or Sigillata 92. Torstok a River and City in Moscovia 126. Tobacco coveted by the Russians 126. Forbidden by Proclamation to be smoked 140. Tortoises in great abundance at Balharu in Persia 283. At Ascension Island 358. Trachana and Bouchort two sorts of Bread made at Mytilene very durable 109. Troy the Remnant of that famous City 78. The Author taken in a Vineyard near Troy and made slave by the Turks Tweer a City in Moscovia 126. Tzanle a beautifull Town in Persia 284. Tzawaar a Place in Persia where every one is to show a Pasport 282. Tzornoyar a City in Russ-Tartary 176. Tzurbag oppid 203. V. VIathe its Sterility but abundance of Furrs Honey and Fish 136. Volske a Province in Moscovia rich of Furs 136. Ustioga a Province in Moscovia famous for plenty of Fish and Cattel 137. W. WAter consecrated by the Armenian Christians 248. Wax a great Commodity in Moscovia 135. Whirlpools in the Caspian Sea 222. Whore-market at Caswin in Persia 305. Wildgeese and Pelicans in great abundance about the Caspian Sea 201. Wolf baiting at Moscou 129. Great multitudes of those Beasts near Colomna in Moscovia 161. Wolmar oppid described 118 119. Wolodomir a fertile countrey in Russia 136. Wood A Wood in Syberia whose end cannot be found out 137. X. XAnte an Island affoarding great plenty of wine 74. Many Earth-quakes on that Island 99. Great scarcity of Water ibid. Z. ZAntorini an Island subject to Earthquakes and Meteors 107. Wine very cheap on this Island 107. The Author left ashoar and in great peril of being taken ibid. Zelandia a Fort in East-India 63. Zemschi Precaus a Place in Russia where any person that is found Dead is brought and exposed to public view 150. Zide Tzaybrail taken up and canonised after he had bin dead 100. years 215. His Sepulchre described 290. The Revenues of the same 296. Zierlan or Tzierlan an Island on the Caspian Sea 203. Zouaschi a Nest of Turkish Pyrats 107. Taken by Lazaro Mocenigo ibid. ERRATA PAg. 117. l. 3. read and shave all their Hair except p. 52. l. 12. before ibid. l. 20. steel p. 3. l. 27. about ibid. valleys 45.18 with p. 71. l. 20. Gratitude left p. 153. l. 30. for than read thou If any thing else occurr that may obscure the sence which by reason of my absence from the Press happens in some places the Reader I hope will either be pleased to pardon or amend with the Pen as also the Literal Errors which my leisure at this time will not permit me to rectify NB. The Book-binder may also please to take notice that the Print of the Massacre of Astrachan may be more fittly placed at pag. 373. than before the Narrativs according to the Directions given after the Elenchus in the fore part of the Book * Blancan in Chronol Mathem * Erasm de Utilit Colloqu * Martial in his 10th Book of Epigrams DEC 1647. Set sail from Texel January 1648. FEBR. 1648. Storm at Sea Arrival de Genua Description of Genua Genua Velez Malaga JUNE 164â— Arrival at Boa Vista Description of the Sale Islands The Island Majo JULY 1648. The Island Majo * A kind of Sea-bream St. Jago Ilha del Fuogo JULY 1670. JULY 1648. JUNE 1648. The King of Sierra Liones fettered and threatned to be hanged The houses of the Caffers pillaged and their Orchards Spoil'd Description of Sierra Liones * A kind of plant called also Milium and Hyrsi bearing a multitude of small grains from whence it hath that name SEPT 164â— Arrival at Madagascar or sas it is by some called S. Laurence OCTOâ— 1648. The Death of Mr. John Benning Captain of the St. Bernard Tumults thereupon Both the Ships rea-ady to sight Voogt yields and goes aboard is clapt into Fetters Result of the Council of War concerning the Officers and Ships-folk * Perhaps Porcupines which are of late grown common in Europe Why an Apt Commit a Rape The Inhabitants their Nature Garb and Posture Their Houses Their Habit and Attire Their Marriages Their Funerals Impious cruelty over their Children Their Religion Their Circumcision * An Assagay as themselvs call it is a kind of dart about 5 or 6 foot long Their Government and Policy The manner of their Treating about Peace MAR. 1649. JAN 1650. The Ships surrendred to the Dutch Arrival at Siam The Kingdom of Siam described Judia Custome-Houses * Fifteen making a degree it follows that 3 Dutch miles must be 12 English land miles or four Leagues at Sea Soil and Fertility of Siam Fish The great value of Scate Skins Crocodiles used for Medicine Malefactors severely punished Stately Throne of the King Great plenty of Gold The Elephants served in Gold and Silver Of their Wars Quicquid delirant reges plectuntur Achivi Revenues of the King of Siam The devour zeal of the Kings of Siam in erecting of Pagods Religious Houses-and Temples Soldiers without Pay and used as Slaves The Condition of the Citizens * Dutch Tuns without dispute * Which are their Ghostly Languages as Arabic in the Alâ—oran and Latin att Mass * For that were not consistent with Money catching in
specious promises than before as That if I would become a Musulman or True Beleever he would advance me to the Dignity of a Commander in the Guards This perplexed me very much when I saw him so earnest thinking that if he could not get his will by fair means he would proceed to rigour and being absolute Lord and Soveraign as well of the Countrey as of my Person would force me to embrace the Mahometan Religion however I had already stood out so much Torture that being a litle hardned to it I feared it so much the less but gave him a short Answer to this Effect Sir All the fair promises you have already and that you may hereafter make shall not have that efficacy with me as to make me renounce my Faith for I had rather dispatch my self than to imbrace Mahometanism He hearing me say so did not for that time press me much more On the 9 th dito I continued still in Chains at what time the young Damosels that had been with me before were sent again who as they did the last time endeavoured to perswade me to turn Mahometan neither did they desist to use all manner of Allurements they could devise to entice me to ly with them for so they thought that if I had done that I must either become Turk or dy a miserable Death They further did what they could to put me in mind of my present misery and told me that I must never expect to enjoy any better than what I saw before my eies and in the conclusion of all told me that they wondred at the Folly and Vanity of the Christians who were so strictly tied to Monogamy or only to marry one Wife when as the Mahometans might have as many as they listed or thought themselves capable to maintain My Master altho he was a Prince yet thought it no dishonour to trade in Commerce but the chief thing he had which brought him up the most Revenues were the Baths which he kept having som almost in every City as well in his own Jurisdiction as in Persia and other Countreys whereof those were the most considerable at Derbent at Scamachy and at Ispahan which brought him in a vast sum of Money yearly The reason why the Baths are there in such esteem and so much frequented by persons of all Ranks and Degrees is not only their affected Cleanliness in which they surpass all others but as well thro Superstition for that after the use of their Wives they are to bath being till then reputed unclean and may not enter the Mosques and this both sexes are injoyned to upon such Cases by the Alcoran A man among them may not ly with his wife from Conception to her Delivery which is probably instituted as a Praecept in the Alchoran to make those Countreys more populous for so one Man is capable of generating many Children in one year The Baths are frequented from Break of day to the Setting of the Sun From morning till noon the Men bath and from noon till night the Women so taking it by Turns On the 10 th came my Patron to visit me and asked me how I did and if I had taken good Courage I answered him that I had no great occasion to thank him for my Welfare since he did all he could to make me miserable and contrary to that Honesty and Truth which the Turks boasted of he had shown me an odd example Withall telling him that he had little reason to chain me so fast and make my Slavery the greater when as he had promised me my Freedom upon the receipt of the Money which was paid him Upon this he seemed to be a little moved to compassion and commanded that the greater Chain should be taken off Now when I observed that my reasoning had a litle prevalency with him I pursued on in my Argument with these or the like Words Sir Is it not sufficient that I am your Slave why then must I be kept in Chains when as others have their liberty If it be so that you fear I should go from you Know this That you can not keep me longer than I list for I can at once part with my Life and take leav of this miserable Bondage which if you persist to use me so inhumanly I am resolved to do This I could perceiv wrought in him no small change for he was naturally very covetous and would have lost the price of a Slave Besides that it is a Maxim of their Law that if any person do any way murther himself the House is to be accursed and pulled down to the Ground My Patron considering what the Issue of this might be altho I had not the lest thoughts to lay violent hands upon my self he therefore to prevent the worst sold me to one Hadsy Mahomet Sala a Persian for 25 Abbas that was about 30 Shillings sterl which is but a small sum in comparison to the ordinary Market price of Argiers and other places in Barbary My new Patron spoke the Russian Tongue very well by which means we came to understand one another the better for he used me more kindly than the other and would often bid me have courage saying he would go with me to Ispahan where there were many English Dutch and other Europeans and probably those that would buy me off his hands and so set me at Liberty again which gave me no small encouragement to do my utmost to please him On the 12 dito I went with my new Master to Derbent and sailed with him several times over the Caspian Sea his principal dealing being in Crap which with several other Roots used in Dying grow there in great abundance He had also a small Bark of his own wherein he transported his own Commodities This said Vessel alwayes lay in a Bay about half a League from the City and thither his Slaves alwaies brought the Wares for about Derbent it is very rocky and unsafe for Vessels to lie at Anchor in case of Storm or tempestuous Weather But in the said Bay is very good anchorage at 6 7 and 8 Fathom Water and a clay ground with Shells The Coast from Baynak to Masanderan is altogether sandy and here and there low land where appear the Tops of the Dagestan Hills between those two Coasts it is all a long very good anchorage there being many fair Roads able to receive Ships of a greater burthen than are usually built for this Sea there are also many fair Towns built for the most part at the mouths of Rivers and have many Vessels and Shipping belonging to them as well for Traffic and Transportation of Merchandizes as for the Fishing trade for this Sea is very plentiful of Fish and brings up the King of Persia an incredible sum of Money yearly receiving from some as Toll and from others as Contribution In the Bay of Gilan are 2 great Whirl-pools for which the Persians are very fearfull in sailing from their
Cold no Oranges Lemmons nor the Usefull Vine will take or like there only Apples and Pears they have which were but just ripe when we were there and as they say have no Blossoms till May or June but without the Mountains it is very warm and affoards good Plenty of the abovesaid Fruits The arable Ground here is very fertile except where it is suffocated with the Sand that the Whirl-winds bring about and Wheat is both good and cheap for having order from my Patron to buy som Bread I had 12 Loavs weighing each 4 poâ—ds for the Value of an English Shilling and that very white and good Bread In this part of the Countrey is also very good Pasturage which is no small Profit to the Schach or King who has imposed a Toll of Four pence half penny for every Sheep great and small that passes the Bridge which by reason of the vast Flocks and great Inclination of the People to bring up Cattel brings up yearly an incredible sum of Money At that time when I was there were Commissioners appointed by the King himself althô 2 years before it was farmed out and the King coming to understand what large Profits superabounded to the Farmers thought good to bring that Remnant into his own Coffers as a Corolary One of those said Commissioners being an old Acquaintance of my Patron told him that when they turned over the Accounts they had found Toll taken for above 700000 Sheep between March and September which amounts to more then 26000 lb. Sterl which is considerable for the bare passage only but far greater is the Toll which is imposed on every Sheep that is sold Within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil lie 57 Villages and Hamlets and those so close together that the Town is easily supplied with plenty of Lactuaries or what else the Land affoards Ardebil is a very great Town but not close built for every eminent House has a Garden or Orchard behind it At this day it lies without Walls Trenches and other Muniments It is watered with one small Rivulet which they call Baluchlu taking its first spring from the Mountains of Scamaschu about 6 miles to the Southward of Ardebil Before the Town it divides its self into two Channels the one running into the Town and so forward till it finds the Carasu This River is somtimes very small especially in the Summer but about March and April when it ordinarily rains very hard with the Snow and concurrency of the Water that settles off from the Mountains swells to anâ— incredible bigness and overruns the Banks so that against this time they usually make a Catarract or Dam which diverts it from the Town and upon negligence or want of due Repair of the same the Town is in danger of being lost as in the time of Schach Abas the greatâ— the Dam being not sufficient the Waters came with that suddenness from the Mountains that it made an irruption and washed away a great part of the Town the Houses being mostly built of Clay and a sort oâ— Brick In this unexpected Innundation they record many Men and Cattle to have been carried away with the violence of the Floods Iâ— Ardebil are 5 Capital Streets to wit Derwansche Tabar Niardouveâ— Kumbolan and Keserkuste all these were very stately and broad being plaâ—ted with rows of Ash Teil-or Linden-Trees which is very pleasanâ— and cool in hot weather Besides these 5 great Streets are also many faiâ— ones but narrower and not beplanted with Trees whereof the chieâ— are Bander chan Kamankar Degme Daglir and Ursumi Mahele famous or to say more properly infamous for Whores who have here their Residence and ply all over the Town and in the Carawanseras and are reckoned as a Corporation or Gild. These are all Poetesses by Occupation som Composing Elogies and Hymns in the Praise of Aâ— and Hosseyn others do make Encomiums setting out the Noble Deeds of the Scach and others dance naked before the Chan. c. These of all that ever I have seen in my Life are the most impudent and sensual for they perceiving me to be a Stranger pester'd me as I wenâ— along the Streets and gave me work enough to keep their Hands ouâ— of my Codpiece Moreover so sensual and beastly have I observed then to be by their Conversation with young-men who are not shie or it the lest ashamed althô at noon day in the middle of the Street that should not willingly use that immodesty to relate all I have seen Therâ— are also several Squares and Plains with Piazzas and Galleries round about in and under which are very rich shops They have also a Place of Refuge whither Malefactors betake themselvs at the Entrance whereof is an Oratory or Chappel in which lie interred the Body of a reputed Saint But the Delinquent fearing himself unsafe can easily gain the great Sanctuary of Scech Sephys Mescaich or Sepulchre whence the King himself should want the Heart to fetch him out by force Coming from this Maydan or Sanctuary you com to the Basar or great Market-plain On this Plain is reared a very magnificent and sumptuous Building four square in which as in our Exchanges are sold all manner of costly Wares and rich Merchandizes as Cloth of Gold and Silver Jewels Precious Stones Tapestry Silks c. This Place they call the Kaysery Behind this you find three Streets almost arched over in which there are many Shops stored with Wares of less value The Carawanseras or Inns of Ardebil are very numerous and those frequented each with a distinct sort of People as Turks Tartarians and Indians who sojourn to and again upon the account of Merchandise In Ardebil are many fair Metzids or Temples whereof one they call Adine surpasses all the rest being founded upon the Top of a Hill in the middle of the Town and besides that graced with a pompous Tower which outbraves all the rest in the City rearing its Top aloft to an exceeding great Height This Temple is thought worthy only to be visited on Fridays which according to the Institution of Mahomet is their Sabbath and from hence it has it's name Before this Temple is a Fountain brought by an Aqueduct from a Place about 5 English miles without the City at the Charges of Muhamed Risa the Rochtaf or Chancellor of Persia The design thereof is that every one willing to visit the Holy Sepulchre must first wash himself there CHAP. XXVIII Hadzi Byram goes to perform his Religious Duties at the Sepulchre of Zeyde Tzebrail The Author begs of his Lord that he may be Spectator of the Ceremonies which at last after many intreaties is granted A Description of that noble Mausoleum Famous Baths in Ardebil The Sulphurous Baths whither the Author accompanies his Patron The manner of using those Baths The stupendious and sumptuous Sepulchre of Scach Sephy described The great Zeal and Devotion of Hadzi Byram The Oratory or House of Prayer where as they say