the Antiquities of Augusta Rauracorum formerly a great City now a Village called Augst not far distant from Basil The great Church or Cathedral at Basil was built by the Emperor Henry II. who married Cunigunda the Daughter of an English King S. Pantalus an English man was the first Bishop here The graver sort of Citizens and Magistrates wear Ruffs and Steeple-Caps The Professors and Ministers wear the same Caps and Ruffs and besides short Gowns which reach little lower than their Knees Many of the Countrey-Boors wear Straw-Hats The Women wear their Coats very short and some of them little round Caps on their Heads very like the young Scholars Caps in Cambridge but less and a Tin-Girdle about their Wasts We saw in this City Dr. Fel. Platerus his Musaeum or Cabinet wherein there is a good Collection of Minerals Stones Metals dried Fishes and other natural and artificial Rarities gathered by Tho. Platerus the Father and Fel. Platerus the Son and disposed in a good Method the Names being set to each one Here and at Zurich are Sermons every day in the week at several Churches David George that monstrous Fanatic died in this City at whose Death there happened a great Tempest of Thunder and Lightning and a Thunder-bolt brake into his House About Basil we found growing wild beside what we had before met withal Scrophularia Ruta canina dicta Passerina Tragi among the Corn. Phalangium parvo flore ramosius Blitum minus album J. B. in fimetis Cymbalaria Italica hederacea in muris urbis ad portam quae Argentinam ducit Stoebe major calyculis non splendentibus in marginibus agrorum muris passim toto itinere à Frankendaliâ ad Basileam usque Polium montanum Lavendulae folio Consolida media Genevensis J. B. Cneorum Matthioli seu Thymelaea minor Cordi But if any one desires a more particular account of what Plants grow wild about Basil C. Baâ—thinus his Catalogus Plantarum circa Basileam nascentium will give him full satisfaction August 10. from Basil we set forward for Zurich At the end of one Dutch mile we passed Augst supposed to have been Augusta Rauracorum There we view'd the Ruines of an antient Building judged by Amberbachius to have been an Amphitheater Next we rode fast by a wall'd Town on the Rhene subject to the Archduke of Inspruck On the Hills hereabout we first saw Fir-trees growing wild Then we passed through Bruck a pretty little walled Town having one handsom Street well built with tall Houses of Stone and Fountains in the middle and lodged at the Baths of Baden six miles distant from Basil This day we first took notice of the little green Tree-Frogs The Baths here are said to be sixty in number but small the Water is very hot Baden is a walled Town seated on the side of a Hill by the River Limagus about half an English mile distant from the Baths Here the Delegates of the thirteen Cantons meet and sit The poor People put a Cheat upon Strangers bringing them to sell as they pretend fossile Dice which they say they dig out of the Earth naturally so figured and marked But I am well assured such as they brought us were artificial Dice and if they dig'd them out of the Earth they first buried them there themselves From Baden Aug. 11. we rode along by the Limagus on one hand and fair Vineyards on the other to Zurich Zurich is pleasantly situate at the end of a Lake call'd Zurich-Sea scarce so big as Basil but I think more populous The River Limagus which runs out of the Lake divides it into two almost equal parts which are joined together by two Bridges one very broad for Carts and Horses to pass over The Houses are built of Timber with Clay-Walls handsomly painted many of them four or five Stories high The Streets are narrow but well paved with Flints and great Pebbles This City is as well fortified as the Situation of it will permit besides the Wall being encompassed round with good Earthworks and Trenches after the modern fashion The River Sele runs by and gives defence to it on the South side and a little lower empties itself into the Limagus The Citizens are given to Merchandise all very busie and industrious They either are rich or at least so esteemed and therefore envied by their Neighbours of the Romish Religion Here are no Guards of Soldiers at the City-Gates no Strangers examined or searcht either at coming in or going out We observed the colour of the Water of the Zurich-Sea to be greenish and well approaching to that of Sea-water Afterwards we found the Water of all the Lakes and Rivers near the Alpes to be of the same colour at which we were not a little surprised For we were wont to attribute that colour in the Sea-water to the mixture of Salt that is in it whereas the Water of these Lakes and Rivers discovers to the Tast nothing of Salt or brackish But afterwards considering that these Waters did consist for the most part of Snow dissolved and that Snow is supposed to contein good store of nitrous Salt we thought it not altogether improbable that this Colour may be owing to the nitrous Particles remaining in the Water though they be not copious enough to affect our Tast and it would be worth the while to distil good quantities of this Water to see whether it would leave any Salt behind That these Lakes and Rivers do consist for the most part of snow-Snow-water it is manifest for that upon the Mountains excepting the lower parts of them no Rain falls in Winter-time but only Snow with which the higher parts of them are covered to a great thickness for at least six moneths in the year and for that the Rivers that flow from the Alpes run lowest in Winter and abound most with Water in the Summer-time so that sometimes they overflow their Banks in the hottest moneths of the year and when no Rain falls as my self can testifie concerning the River Rhodanus because the Sun at the season melts the Snow upon the Mountains Hence it appears that their Opinion was not so absurd who attributed the yearly Increase and Overflowing of the River Nilus to the dissolution of the Snow upon those Mountains where it hath its first Rise Though I do not think this to be the true Cause partly because that part of the Earth where those Mountains lie is so hot by reason of its Situation under the direct and sometimes perpendicular Beams of the Sun that it 's not likely any Snow should fall much less lie there chiefly because Travellers generally agree that in most parts of that Climate where those Mountains lie there are at that time of the year great falls of Rain to which therefore the Overflowing of Nilus is more probably attributed The Government of this City is by a greater and a lesser Council The lesser Council consists of 50 viz. 24 Tribunes or
houses tall and massy for the most part flat rooft and covered with a kind of plaster which fences out the rain and endures the weather well Notwithstanding this City lies so far South and under hills yet is not the heat extreme but such as may well be endured even in the middle of Summer they having for the most part about noon-tide a brize of wind which cools and refreshes much Two or three hot days we had but the rest temperate enough They told us that there uses to be very little rain there in Summer time howbeit at our being there which was in the latter end of June and beginning of July it rained every other day and sometimes so plentifully that the water ran down like a river in the streets When they have no rain to cool the streets in the afternoon they draw about a tun filled with cold water and bored with several holes whence the water gushes out as it goes along The Dialect of the common people is much different from the Tuscane and not to be understood but by one who hath a long time conversed with them This City is well served with all provisions especially fruit which is very cheap heer In this place we took first notice of the Cucurbita anguina Cucumis anguinus Mala insana Limoncelle to be sold in market Macarones and Vermicelle which are nothing but a kind of paste cut into the figure of worms or thongs boil'd in broth or water are a great dish heer as well as at Messina and as much esteemed by the vulgar as Frumenty by the Countrey people in England All the Neopolitans and Sicilians and genenrally the Italians drink their Wine and water snowed and you shall see many stalls in the streets where there is snowed water to be sold many also you shall meet with a barrel at their backs and glasses in their hands crying Acqua ghiacciata or Acqua nevata We were credibly informed that before the last great Plague the very gabel upon snow was farmed at 25000 crowns per annum NB. To cool the water or wine they do not put the snow into it but round about the vessel wherein it is contained so they have a vessel conteining the snow or ice and into that they set the vessel conteining the wine or water There are in this City an incredible number of Monasteries or Religious houses as they call them Beltrano Descript Neap. gives us a Catalogue of 160 of all sorts whereof 121 of men and 39 of women the number of the persons contained in them being 1242. Four Castles there are to secure and bridle the City withal 1. Castel d'Ovo built on a rock in the Sea having an artificial Caussey or mole leading to it from the shore 2. Castel S. Elmo or S. Hermo standing on a hill above the City 3. Castel Novo by the water side near the Haven where the Gallies lie 4. Torrione di Carmine made use of by Massaniello and Anese in the time of the Rebellion This is only a tower belonging to the Carmelites Cloyster The Churches in this Town are generally very handsome within side many of them richly gilt and sumptuously adorned some of them not only paved with marble of divers colours but their walls encrusted all over with marble inlaid Of all the Cloysters I have any where seen that of the Carthusians close adjoyning to the Castle S. Elmo is the most splendid and magnific where there is a large square Court compassed about with the fairest peristylium or Cloyster that I ever saw All the pillars and all the pavement of the Portico I mean being of marble of several colours well wrought polish'd and laid and so cleanly and elegantly kept that one cannot see a more pleasant spectacle of this nature For my own part I was much taken with the sight of it Heer is a fair Arsenal to build Gallies in now made but little use of The public Granary deserves notice taking it being the greatest and best furnished of any we have seen They told us there was Corn enough always in store to serve the whole City some years upon any exigency There are great Vaults made under-ground to keep it in in Winter time and large rooms above to keep it in Summer A great number of men they hire to turn all the beds of Corn every day The Bakers of the Town are obliged to take every month 25000 tomoli out of this Granary that so there may be a succession of new Corn yearly This they paying a good rate for is the reason why bread is dearer in Naples than otherwise it would be In the City of Naples are 5 Seggi that is Benches or Companies of Noblemen viz. that of 1. Capua 2. Nido 3. Montagna 4. Porta 5. Porta nova In the whole Kingdom of Naples there are 148 Cities of which 21 20 are Archbishopricks and 127 128 Bishopricks to about 30 of which the King of Spain nominates 87 Princes 122 Dukes 159 Marquesses and 7 Earls The Kingdom is divided into 12 Provinces viz. 1. TERRA DILAVORO anciently called Campania felix in which are 14 Cities viz. 1. Aversa 2. Capua 3. Caserta 4. Gaeta 5. Ischia 6. Massa-Lubrense 7. Nola. 8. Pozzuoli 9. Sessa 10. Sorrento 11. Teano 12. Traetto 13. Venafro 14. Vico Equense 2. PRINCIPATO CITRA in which are 18 Cities 1. Amalfi 2. Campagna 3. Capri in the Island Capreae near Naples famous for the retirement of Tiberius Caesar The greatest part of the Revenue of the Bishop of this Island they told us arises from the Quails taken therein 4. Casella 5. Contursi 6. Eboli 7. Cappaccia 8. Gragnano 9. Lettere 10. Laurino 11. Nocera 12. Salerno 13. San-severino 14. Saponara 15. Sarno 16. Scala 17. Tramonti 18. Ravello 3. PRINCIPATO ULTRA in which are 14 viz. 1. Beneveno 2. Solofra 3. Consa 4. Ariano 5. Avellino 6. Bisaccio 7. S. Angclo de Lombardi 8. Cedogna 9. Monte marano 10. Nusco 11. Voltorara 12. Vico. 13. Vico della Baronia 14. S. Agatha delli grotti 4. BASILICATA which hath 11 Cities viz. 1. Lavello 2. Amalfi 3. Policastro 4. Venosa 5. Acirenea 6. Muro 7. Monte peloso 8. Potenza 9. Rapolla 10. Tricarico 11. Tursi 5. CALABRIA CITRA in which are 12 viz. 1. Mantea 2. Cosenza 3. Paola 4. Montalto 5. Rossano 6. Bisignano 7. Cariari 8. Cassano 9. Martirano 10. Strongoli 11. S. Marco 12. Ubriatico 6. CALABRIA ULTRA 16 viz. 1. Catanzara 2. Crotone 3. Squillaci 4. Taverna 5. Tropia 6. Rhezo or Reggio anciently Rhegium 7. Belicastro 8. Bova 9. S. Severina 10. Gieraci 11. L'isola 12. Montilene 13. Melito 14. Nicastro 15. Nicoterra 16. Oppido 7. TERRA D'OTRANTO 14 viz. 1. Gallipoli 2. Lecce 3. Brindisi 4. Matera 5. Ostuni 6. Tarento 7. Otranto Hydruntum 8. Alessano 9. Castellaneta 10. Castro 11. Motola 12. Nardo 13. Oria. 14. Ugento 8. TERRA DI BARI 16. 1. Andria 2. Bari 3. Barletta a
observes the Tides but it is no running water nor doth it I believe arise above the level of the Sea I do therefore shrewdly suspect for fabulous whatever hath been written of Wells remote from the Sea which in their ebbing and flowing observe its motions But for a reason of the ebbing and flowing of these Wells I must confess I am hitherto at a great loss Whereas some say that rain sinks not above a foot or two deep into the earth if they understand it of all earths it is manifestly false for that we see in Coal delfs and other mines in wet weather the Miners are many times drown'd out as they phrase it though no water run down into the mouths of their pits and shafts and in sandy and heathy grounds in the greatest rains little water runs off the land as on Newmarket-heath Gogmagogâ—hills Salisbury-plain c. and therefore it must needs sink in and out of the mouth of Pool-hole near Buxton in the Peak of Derby and other Caves in the sides of mountains in rainy seasons streams of water many times run out where in dry weather and Summer time there are none Neither is this opinion we defend any more repugnant to the Scripture then the other For whereas it is said Eccles 1. 7. All the rivers run into the sea yet the sea is not full unto the place from whence the rivers come thither they return again we grant it to be most true nay we think such a circulation absolutely necessary to the being of springs only we assert it to be performed not under ground but above that is the clouds take up water out of the Sea and pour it down again upon the earth and from part thereof falling upon and soaking into the higher grounds arise the springs But to return to Malta the Haven is very commodious and secure divided into two by a little promontory or neck of land some 1500 canes long and 380 broad upon which the new City is built Of these two that on the West side the City is called simply and per Antonomasian Marsa that is the Haven and is in length 1800 canes or poles of ten palms the cane Roman measure and is sub-divided into other crecks or sinus's That on the East-side called Marsa moscetto is as large as the other in a little Island within which is the Lazaretto near it Ships that come from infected places keep their Quarentain The new City called Valetta is divided into 20 streets 8 in length and 12 in breadth all streight Though they be not paved yet they need it not the Town being built upon a solid rock They want no uniformity but being level which the place being uneven uphill and down-hill will not admit The houses are all of stone flat-rooft and covered with plaister which is sufficient heer there falling but little rain though they be not tall yet are they neat and pleasant Upon the roofs of their houses in Summer time the people set their beds as at Aleppo and sleep in the open air The number of the Inhabitants of all ages according to a survey taken in the year 1632 was 10744 the number of houses 1891 which sum is I believe since that time much encreased Over the gate of this City leading to the land called Porta reale you have this Inscription giving an account of the first founding and building of it Fr. Jo. de Valetta sacrae Domûs Hospitalis Hierosol M. Magister periculorum annosuperiore à suis militibus populóque Melitoeo in obsidione Turcica perpessorum memor de condenda nova urbe eâque moeniis arcibus propugnaculis ad sustinendam vim omnem propulsandósque inimici Turcae impetus aut saltem reprimendos munienda inito cum Proceribus consilio Die Jovis 28 Martii 1566 Deum omnipotentem Deiparâ—mque virginem numen tutelare D. Joannem Baptistam Divósque caeteros multa precatus ut faustum felixque Religioni Christianae fieret ac Ordini suo quod inceptabat bene cederet prima urbis fundamenta in monte ab incolis Sceberras vocato jecit eámque de suo nomine Valettam dato pro insignibus in Parma miniata aureo leone appellari voluit Fr. Antonius de Paula M. Mag. invictiss Conditoris tantaeque rei monimentum P. C. Anno ab Vrbe Fundata 68. It is fortified with impregnable Walls and Bulwarks especially toward the land where one would think there are too many and yet they are still adding more Within the outmost wall or between the two walls and outworks they have enclosed a great space of void ground whether with design to enlarge the City filling that space with houses or to receive the Country-people in case the enemy should land upon the Island I know not All the walls and bulwarks are mined or vaulted underneath that so in case the besiegers should get upon them they might be blown up and rendred useless The charge of all these Walls Castles and Fortifications would be intolerable had they not stone at hand and slaves to work This City is well served with all provisions there being every morning a Market plentifully furnished with bread flesh fish poultry fruits herbs c. of the best in their several kinds and to be bought at easie rates The most considerable buildings in this City are 1. The Church of St. John Baptist patron of the Order wherein are many Chappels and Altar-pieces richly gilded and adorned Heer lie buried the Grand Masters that have been since the Order was translated hither in a vault under ground several of them having in the Church Monuments with inscriptions This Church is not yet quite finished The Castle of S. Elmo which stood heer before this City was built on the utmost point of the Promontory A strong place but of no great capacity Heer we observed the like winding ascent to the top without any steps or stairs as in the tower of S. Mark at Venice Upon the top of this Castle is constant watch and ward kept When they descry any Vessel coming toward the Island be it great or small they set up a Flag suitable to the bigness of the Vessel if two Vessels two if three three and so on according to their number signifying also by the place where they set these Flags from what quarter East West North or South such Vessel or Vessels come So that the City is presently advised what Vessels and how many are near the Port. In this Castle are imprisoned such Knights as have committed any misdemeanour and held in restraint longer or less time or further proceeded against according to the merit of their fault Before this Castle are the Granaries where the provisions of Corn for the City are kept These are nothing but Caves hewn out of the rock in the form of a Cupola or ordinary Bee-hive having each a narrow mouth above They are constantly stored with Corn enough beforehand to serve the whole City for
clay helps the separation and precipitation of it These conical pots are put into other pots into which by the hole at the vertex the juice dreins down through the course sugar at the bottom It dreins so for 5 or 6 moneths in which time the sugar in the conical pots grows hard and white all the juice being either drunk up by the lute or run out by the hole at the vertex This juice is boiled again so long as it is good for any thing but at last it makes only a foul red sugar that will never be better The conical loaves of sugar after they are taken out are set to drein over the same pots for 14 or 15 days To make the sugar more white they must boil it again but about one sixth is lost every time A pound of sugar of 12 ounces is sold at Olives for three sous and a half refined for 5 or 6 sous The sugar-juice is strained through strainers of linnen as it is put out of one Cauldron into another They take it out of the first and second Cauldrons so soon as it begins to boil but in the third Cauldron they let it boil till the scum rises and then take off only the scum with a scummer and put it into a long trough to cool and when it is cool put it into the conical pots One scum rises after another in the third Cauldron The scum when it is taken off is white but turns to a black liquor in the trough They never refine the sugar more than 3 or four times They use for the refining of it whites of eggs putting in 2 or 3 dozen into a Cauldron They use but one Cauldron for refining When it is refined it grows white and hard in 9 or 10 days The juice boiled up is eaten with bread tosted as honey The juice of the refined sugar is much better than the first juice The Duke of Gandia sends presents of this refined juice to the Queen of Spain When they refine it they put in a little water into the cauldrons to dissolve it the better But for a more exact description of the whole process of the Sugar-works I refer to Piso in his natural history of Brasil and Ligon in his Description of the Barbados The Sugar of Olives is better than the Sugar of Gandia At Meuttria in Granada they also make a great deal of Sugar About Valence Gandia c. the earth is alwayes wrought and never lies fallow or idle They reckon 5 Raccolta's or crops in one year 1. Of Mulberry leaves for silk 2. Wheat and other European grain 3. Darsi i. e. Maiz or Indian Wheat 4. Grapes 5. Olives and 6. at Gandia Sugar-canes After the wheat is cut they presently sow the Indian Wheat They complained that lately for a great many years together they had very vad Raccolta's for want of rain which had almost ruin'd Spain We passed Benegana and lay at Chativer six leagues and a half Chativer is an antient Town of the Moors and was once head of one of their little Kingdoms About a league from the Town began a very remarkable Aquaeduct made by the Moors It was just over a river along the side of a hill in most places not above a yard or two under ground and had a great many funnels just like the tops of chimneys to give vent and let out the water when there should be too much The tops of these funnels were made of a red clay and pebble stones The water came almost to the top in all of them but run over but in one We passed in sight of Montesa a castle belonging to the Knights of Montesa that wear a red cross Ortenente and lodged at Beobert 6 leagues Near Alicant among the mountains there is a very good breed of Falcons In the plains near Alicant grows abundance of Gramen spartum Plinii sive sportularum Officinarum J. B. i. e. Matweed of which the frails wherein they put raisins and other fruit are made This is Spain they call Spar at Marseilles Auffe The women heerabout gather abundance of this and steep it in sea-water till it be well softned Then they dry it and carry it by sea to Marseilles where they sell it at 8 escus the Milliere Every Milliere consists of 10 Packieres every Packiere of 100 Manados or handfuls Of this they make cables for ships baskets c. In this day journey we saw a great many fountains covered with long arches to hinder them from being dried up We passed Elda Novelda Aspe Clavillente Albitella and lay at Orivola 11 leagues We came to Murcia 4 leagues Near Orivola which City is an Episcopal Sea we observed many Turpentine-trees some in flower and some with ripe berries Near Elda they dig up a sort of Selenite which they burn and put into wine to clarifie it About a league from Orivola began the Kingdom of Murcia two leagues from Orivola we were fain to give money to avoid searching Murcia which gives denomination to this Kingdom is a pitiful desolate Town The Fish-market heer is shut up in cage or grate as at Genoa the people crowding about it and thrusting in their baskets as there We travelled through a miserable desolate Countrey to Mula 7 leagues We passed through Caravacca where they drive a great trade of making little crosses of silver brass wood c. After that Pilgrims Travellers c. have bought them they carry them to the Castle to touch them by a famous Cross which according to their fabulous Legend descended miraculously from heaven which forsooth infuses a wonderful virtue into them We lay this night at an odd house four leagues off Caravacca having travelled in all ten leagues We passed by Venta nova and came to Huesca 8 leagues At Huesca we first saw a yellowish white wine like sack The Kingdom of Granada began about 4 leagues before we came to Huesca The town of Huesca belongs to the Duke of Alva We passed by Basa and rested at Venta 8 leagues We travelled to Guadix an Episcopal Sea and ancient Roman Colony Upon the gates we took notice of this inscription Recepit Colonia Accitana Gemeliensis provinciae caput prima omnium Hispanicarum fidem Christi Jesu rejectis idolis evangelizantibus sanctis Torcato sociis Anno salutis 70 Pontificatùs S. Petri 37 imperii Neronis 13. Vrbs Accis patrono suo sanctissimo D. D. 1593. Honorati sunt Amici tui Deus Colonia Accitana We travelled to Granada 6 leagues distant from Desinos where we lodged the night before Heer we saw the Castle called La Lhambra the seat of the Kings of Granada Within the walls of the Castle live abundance of people which dare not live in the City for debt or other causes There is a fair Palace begun by Charles V and yet unfinished the outside of it is square but it is round within having two rows of Cloysters one above
ingenious Friend Mr. Martin Lister hath lately advised me that he hath found of them ramose and branched like trees which doth sufficiently evince they were not of that original I supposed Wherefore unless we will grant them to be primary and immediate productions of Nature as they are in the form of stones we must embrace Mr. Hook's opinion that they were the roots of some Plants though I confess I never as yet saw any Roots or Branches shaped and joynted in that manner Possibly there may be or have been such kind of submarine Plants or Roots which have hitherto escaped my knowledge For that the parts not only of Trees but also of Herbs themselves may sometimes petrifie the stalks of Equisetum which we gathered up on the banks of the River Tanaro in Piemont do abundantly convince and satisfie me And this is all that I thought needful to acquaint the Reader with by way of Preface ERRATA In the Observations PAge 210 line 31 lege extraordinariam p. 214 l. 32. mutis p. 215. l. 26. Abano l. 20 Abano p. 218. l. 17. temperandum p. 220. l. 35. far p. 222. l. 13. Montferrat p. 223. l. 22. adde us p. 235. l. 8. ripis Rheni Bononiensis l. 25. propè p. 244. l. 35. Castellaâ—â— p. 249. l. 22. Counties p. 256. l. 37. Globularia p. 257. l. 23. disjoyned p. 263. l. 7. the word being is omitttd p. 267. l. 24. Neopolitans p. 276. l. 22. dele upon p. 277. l. 1. Neopolitana l. 33. Neopolitano p. 280. l. 24. vulgari p. 282. l. 33. Messan p. 285. l. 10. dele are p. 287. l. 34. Medica p. 303. l. 20. Seniour p. 315. l. 34. inne p. 316. l. 27. one p. 318. l. 25. wild p. 343. l. 35. Bols p. 414. l. 6. di Dio p. 415. l. 20. hath p. 416. l. 2. vessels p. 418. l. 30. to is omitted p. 422. l. 16. Friburg p. 432. l. 11. Versoy p. 439. l. 30. laevi p. 446. l. 25. Sanicula p. 450. l. 2. Characias ib. l. 21. Frontignana p. 454. l. 16. 30. p. 480. l. 4. bad p. 484. l. 37. devotissimus p. 486 l. 33. las p. 489. l. 5. the. In Catalogo PAge 1. line 37. leptophyllos p. 3. l 27. fontaine que brusle ib. l. 32. Ocymi p. 10 l. 8. sterilioribus p. 18. l. 4. maritima p. 30. l. 14. racemosum p. 32. l. 40. accensusque p. 46. l. 33. Dioscoridis p. 47. l. 33. purpurea p. 56. l. 8. pro ejus scribe radicis p. 83. l. 39. dele garis p. 85. l. 13. ossiculis p. 86. l. 19. nigricans p. 8â— l. 35. Pulmonaria p. 97. l. 17. Zanclaeum p. 101. l. 23. dele tris Errata leviora in punctis literulis quae nec sensum pervertunt obscurúmve aut ancipitem reddunt nec in errores orthographicós aliosve lectores minùs peritos inducere apta sunt verùm unicuiquè non prorsus 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 manifesta Lectori benevelo vel condonanda vel emendanda permissimus OBSERVATIONS Topographical Moral and Physiological Made in a JOURNEY Through Part of the Low-Countries c. GATES FOR A LOCK TO KEEP UP THE WATER OF ANY RIVER FOR THE VSE OF NAVIGATION ETC. The fourth by some esteemed the fifth Port Town of Flanders which hath the largest and most capacious Harbour of all the rest viz. Sluys subject to the States of the United Provinces we saw not April 24. We took places in the Passage-Boat for Bruges and at a League and halfs end came to a Lock or Sluce where we shifted our Boat These Locks or Sostegni as the Italians significantly call them are usually placed at a great Declivity of any Chaâ—el or Fall of water and serve to sustain or keep up the Water as the Italian Name imports to make a River navigable which either wants Water or hath too sâ—eep a Descent There are of them in England as we have been informed upon Guildford River in Surrey and have been formerly upon the Trent They are usually thus contrived First there are placed a pair of Folding-doors or Flood-gates cross the Chanel to stop the water descending Then a competent space being left to receive Boats and Lighters c. another single Gate In each of these Gates toward the bottom is made a Hole or Window sitted with a convenient Shut or Wicket Portello the Italians call it to open and shut as occasion requires When a Vessel comes down stream to the Sostegno first they open the Portello of the foremost Gates and let the Water into the inclosed space which will necessarily rise there till it come to be equal with the Level of that above the Gates then they shut the Portello and the Stream making no resistance easily draw back the Gates and receive in the Boat Which done they open the Portello of the lower Gates whereupon the Stream above presently drives to and keeps fast the foremost Gates and the Water in the enclosed space sinks till it be even with that in the Chanel below and then they open the Gate itself and let the Boat out When a Boat goes up Stream they first open the lowermost Gate and receive it into the middle or enclosed space then withdraw or set open the Portello in the uppermost Gates letting in the water till it come to be equal with the level of that above the Gates and lastly draw back the Gates themselves and let out the Boat N. B. That both upper and lower Gates open against the Stream and are driven to and kept shut by it and that the Leaves of the upper Gates lie not in the same plain when shut but make an obtuse Angle the better to resist the force of the Water THE FIGVRE OF THE GATES AS WELL OF THE INSIDE OF THEM AS THE OVT An Engine to raise water a chain of Buckets taken out of Kirchers MVNDVS SVBTERRANEVS Near this City as Boetius de Boot who was Native thereof relates digging ten or twenty Ells deep in the Earth they find whole Woods of Trees in which the Trunks Boughs and Leaves do so exactly appear that one may easily distinguish the several kinds of them and very plainly discern the Series of Leaves which have fallen yearly These subterraneous Woods are found in those places which 500 years ago were Sea and afterwards either left and thrown up by the Sea or gained from it the Tides being kept off by Walls and Fences But before the fore-mentioned term of 500 years there is no memory that these places were part of the Continent And yet seeing the tops of these Trees do for the most part lie Eastward because as is probable they were thrown down by Western Winds which on this Coast are most boisterous and violent it will necessarily follow that in the most antient times and before all memory of man these places were Firm Land and without the limits of the Sea The Describer of Amsterdam tells us that in Friesfland and Groningland there are great
strong Fort at the Entrance of the Chanel leading to Middleburgh Bergen is a place of very great Strength besides the Wall and Trench being fortified with Half Moons Horn-Works c. famous for the notable Resistance it made first to the Duke of Parma and afterwards to the Marquess Spinola besieging of it Anno 1622 At our being there it was held with a strong Garrison consisting of twelve Companies of Foot two whereof were English and two Troops of Horse beside four Companies of Townsmen May 21. we travelled to Breda eight hours distant from Bergen for so they reckon or measure their way in these Countreys by the time they spend in passing it This Town is considerable for its bigness well built and populous of great Strength being encompassed with very thick Walls and Mounts of Earth and two Trenches full of Water the one broad and deep At our Entrance in we passed through two Ports and over five Draw-Bridges It belongs to the Prince of Orange who hath a Castle and a fair Palace in the Town Here are maintained in Garrison for defence of this important Strength thirteen Companies of Foot two whereof were English at our being there and four Troops of Horse Ever since the Surprise of this Town by the Truf-Boat it is the Custom to search all Boats laden with Commodities that enter here by stabbing them through in sundry places with a Spit May 22. we travelled from Breda first to S. Gertrudenberg belonging to the States no great Town but well fortified and entrencht garrison'd by three Companies of Foot one whereof was English and a Troop of Horse and from Gertrudenberg the same day by water to Dordrecht or Dort a large City very rich and populous well built with tall Houses of Brick not inferiour to those of Antwerp The Streets elegantly paved in the middle with Stone and on each side next the houses with Brick set edgeways so clean that a man may walk them in Slippers without wetting his foot in the midst of Winter Thus paved and thus cleanly kept are the Streets of all the Cities and great Towns in Holland The English Merchants have great Privileges and keep their Court in this Town Here are two English Churches and one French From the Tower of the principal Church we had a fair Prospect of the City and Countrey adjacent the Steeple of Breda coming into view In one of the upper Rooms of the Gunners Doel or Guild sate the Synod assembled here Anno 1611. The Seats round about are still remaining May 23. we took places in one of the Passage-Boats that go off several times daily to Roterdam some three Leagues distant from Dort which brought us thither in five hours Roterdam is of a triangular Figure and much larger than I thought it to have been It equals if not exceeds any City in Holland except Amsterdam and perhaps Leyden It hath been lately much augmented by the addition of many Streets of new buildings Near the principal Church dedicated to S. Laurence is a little House where Erasmus was born over the door of which is placed his Picture and on one side of that this Distich written Aedibus his ortus mundum decoravit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis relligione fide Under it in Spanish this En esta casa es nacido Erasmo Theologo celebrado Par doctrina sennalado la pura fee nos a revelado And in Latin this Fatalis series nobis invidit Erasmum At Desiderium tollere non potuit In a large Piazza stands a stately Brass Statue erected to his Memory with the Figure of a Book of the same Metal in its hand and in the posture of turning over a Leaf of which in drollery the People say that every time it hears the Clock strike it turneth over a Leaf The Citizens of Roterdam exercise no Handicraft or Manufacture to trade withal but all their Riches proceed from their Sea-Trade and Merchandise They have a very good Port Ships of great Burthen coming up in deep Chanels into the very Town where they lie secure from all danger and lade and unlade their Commodities at the Merchants doors The Government is by a President four Burgomasters and twenty four Magistrates or Senators which they call the Vroetschap These chuse all publick Officers out of their own number Themselves continue in place during life and when any one dies the rest chuse out of the Citizens another into his room So that the People have no interest or share at all in the Government The form of Government is most what the same in all the other Cities and Towns of Holland only the number of Counsellours or the Vroetschap is in some more in some less Every hour of the day at the ringing of a Bell goes off a Passage-Boat somewhat like our Pleasure-Barges on the Thames to Delft We took places in one of these May 25. which in two hours time brought us to Delft three Dutch miles This is also a large City fair and well-built water runs through many of the Streets The Stadthouse is a very handsom Structure Here are two large Churches the one called the old the other the new Kirk In the middle of the Quire of the new Kirk is a stately Monument erected to the Memory of Grave William of Nassaw Prince of Orange who was assassinated here with this Inscription D. O. M. Et Aeternae memoriae Guilielmi Nassovii Supremi Arausiouensium Prinicipis Patr. Patr. Qui Belgii fortunis suas posthabuit Et suorum Validissimos exercitus aere plurimum privato Bis conscripsit bis induxit Ordinum auspiciis Hispaniae tyrannidem propulit Verae religionis cultum avitas patriae leges Revocavit restituit Ipsam deniqâ— libertatem tantùm non assertam Mauritio Principi Paternae virtutis â—haeredi filio Stabiliendam reliquit Herois vere filii prudentis invicti Quem Philip. II. Hisp R. ille Europae timor timuit Non domuit non terruit Sed empto percussore fraude nefanda Sustulit Foederat Belg. Provinc Perenne mentor monum Fec In the Quire of the old Kirk is a Monument to Van Trump with this Inscription Aeternae Memoriae Qui Batavas qui virtutem ac verum laborem amas Lege ac luge Batavoe gentis decus virtutis bellicae fulmen hic jacet qui vivus nunquam jacuit imperatorem stantem mori debere suo exemplo docuit amor civium hostium terror Oceani stupor Martinus Harperti Trompius Quo nomine plures continentur laudes quà m hic lapis capit sanè angustior Et cui Schola Oriens Occidens mare materia triumphorum universus Orbis theatrum gloriae fuit praedonum certa pernicies commercii felix assertor familiaritate utilis non vilis postquam nautas ac milites durum genus paterno cum efficacia benigno rexit imperio post L praelia quorum Dux fuit aut pars magna post insignes supra fidem victorias post
City The Supreme Power seems chiefly to rest in these Formerly none was capable of being Burgomaster except his Father had been a Freeman a year and six weeks before he was born but of late they have made a Constitution that he who will pay five hundred Gilders may be made free of the City and capable of being Burgomaster after seven years Any one may be made a Freeman for fifty Gilders but then he shall never be capable of being chosen Burgomaster The Describer of Amsterdam saith that there were in that City 18 years ago 54000 Houses whereas in Paris there were then but 46000 which is a thing by no means to be credited The Militia of Amsterdam consists of 54 Companies divided into five Regiments each containing eleven Companies and every Company consisting of 150 men so that the whole amounts to 8250. Two Companies watch every night for the guard of the City June 16. we took Boat for Vtrecht where we arrived at six hours end This is a great Town and the head of a Province environed with a thick and high Wall and a deep Trench The Streets and Buildings far short of the Elegancy Beauty and Cleanliness of those in Holland much like the Houses and Streets of our English Towns Water runs through many of the Streets in deep Chanels The Domo or Cathedral Church hath a great tall Tower ascended by 460 Steps from whence we had a fair Prospect of the City and Countrey round about Here is an University erected by the States of the United Provinces in the year 1636. Who were the Professors in each Faculty at the time of our being here the following Series Lectionum will acquaint the Reader Series Lectionum in Acad. Ultrajectina Anno Christi M.DC.LXIII Priore Semestri MANE HORA OCTAVA D. Antonius Matthaeus J. V. D. Professor diebus Lunae Martis Institutiones Jovis autem Veneris Selectiores Pandectarum titulos interpretabitur D. Regnerus à Mansvelt Philosophiae Doctor Logices Metaphysices Professor diebus Lunae Martis Logicâ—m cum quaestionibus Metaphysicis Jovis vero Veneris Naturalem Theologiam docebit HORA NONA D. Cyprianus Regnerus ab Oosterga J. V. D. Professor Codicem Academicâ Forensi explicatione explanabit D. Henricus Regius Eques Auratus Medicinae Professor Primarius suos Medicinoe Medicationumque libros interpretabitur diâ—bus Veneris Stirpium demonstrationes in Horto Publico instituet D. Daniel Berckringer L. A. M. Philosophiae practicoe atque Eloquentioe Professor diebus Lunae Martis Institutiones suas Ethicas Jovis verò Veneris Politicas cursoriè interpretabitur HORA DECIMA D. Gisbertus Voctius SS Theologiae Doctor Professor diebus Jovis Veneris perget in explicatione Politicae Ecclesiasticoe diebus verò Lunae Martis in Explicatione prioris partis Locorum Communium D. Isbrandus de Diemerbroeck Med. Doct. ac Medicinae Practieae Anatomes Professor diebus Lunae Veneris in Academia explicabit Historias morborum capitis quibus absolutis perget ad Historias morborum thoracis diebus Martis Jovis in Nosocomio decumbentes aegrotos inviset eorumque examen medicationem docebit ac praxeos specimina exhibebit Demonstrationes vero anatomicas in theatro publico instituet quum subjecti humani copia dabitur HORA UNDECIMA D. Andreas Essenius S. Theologiae ac Philosophiae Doctor illius Professor diebus Lunae Martis Jovis Controversias tractabit ad selecta loca V. T. Veneris quoque Historiam Ecclesiasticam saeculi Christiani duodecimi enarrabit D Johannes Georgius Graevius Philosophiae Doctor Historiarum Eloquentiae Professor diebus Lunae Martis Jovis explicabit C. Taciti Annales die verò Veneris Ciceronis orationem pro Milone A MERIDIE HORA PRIMA D. Paulus Voet J. V. D. Professor Juris Pandectas continuatâ serie interpretabitur D. Johannes Leusden L. A. M. Linguae Sanctae Professor diebus Lunoe Martis Jovis explicabit Psalmos Hebraioos diebus verò Veneris interpretabitur Rabbinum aliquem vel selectos difficiliores 564 versus Psalterii in quibus omnes ejus voces pleraeque radices V. T. continentur Post explicationem textualem semper addet quaestiones Philologicas concernontes Phiâ—ologiam Hebraicam Controversias Ritus Judaeorum quidem eo ordine quo eoe post invicem describuntur in Spicilegio Philologico HORA SECUNDA D. Franciscus Burmannus SS Theologiae Doctor Professor diebus Lunae Martis Euangelistam Matthaeum cum necessariis quoestionibus observationiobus quâ poteriâ— brevitate enarrabit diebus verò Jovis Veneris Oeconomiam salutis humanae sub Foedere Vet. ac Novo tractabit D. Johannes de Bruyn L. A. M. Physicae Matheseos Professor p. t. Academiae Rector diebus Lunae Martis in Pbysicis lectionibus perget Jovis verò Veneris continuabit explicationem fundamentorum Mechanicorum De Heer Hugo Ruys sal Woensdaeghs en Saterdaeghs van Elftot Twaelf uyren inde Fortificatie continueren The Garrison consisted of eight Companies of Soldiers whereof one was English The Government is by an upper and under Scout and four Burgomasters whereof two new chosen yearly June 18. we went by Boat to Vianen passing over a Branch of the River Rhene called the Lech This is a privileged Town wall'd and trench'd about subject to the Lord of Brederode Here we noted an Engine or wheel for the weaving of Inkle and Tape which moves many Shuttles at once The same day we travelled on to Leerdam three hours distant from Vianen a small inconsiderable Town belonging to the Prince of Orange June 19. we passed through Asperen a small wall'd Town and further on ferried over the River Wale Vahalis in Latine to a pretty pleasant wall'd Town called Bommel standing in an Island Here lay in Garrison four Companies of Soldiers whereof one of Scotchmen Not far from hence we ferried over the Mose and passed by a strong Fort nigh the Water called Crevecoeur and not much further another called Engelen and after four hours came to the Bosch Hertogenbosch the Dutch call it and the French Bois le duc i. e. Sylva Ducis Before we entred the Town we passed through a Water and over two Draw Bridges This Place is situate on a Hill in the midst of a low fenny Level of a great extent the greatest part whereof is at least now was covered with Water so that the only Avenues to the Town are upon artificial Causways It is encompassed with a strong Wall and a deep Trench At one end stands a Citadel strongly fortified which commands the Town By reason of its Situation and Fortifications one would judge this Place impregnable yet hath it been taken in the late Wars At our being there were kept in Garrison for the Defence of this important Strength 21 Companies of Foot and four Troops of Horse In the Quire of S. Johns Church are painted the Arms of many of
remote from Commerce The Inhabitants reap no small benefit from the frequency of Strangers which in the Summer-time repair thither in great numbers to drink the Medicinal Waters There is one Well called Pouhont within the Town in the Market-place which tasts strong of Vitriol the Virtues whereof are contained in this Distich written over it Obstructum reserat durum terit humida siccat Debile fortificat si tamen arte bibis The other Wells are at a good dâ—â—â—nce from the Town 1. Sauvenir to the Eastward about an hours walk remote 2. Geronster as far to the Southward and 3. Tonnelet about the mid-way between Pouhont and Sauvenir These Waters seemed to me more brisk and sprightly and better sated with Mineral Juices than any I have tasted in England and doubtless are more nimble and vigorous in their Operations But of their several Natures and Virtues Henricus ab Heer 's hath written a particular Treatise entitled Spadacrene to which I refer the Reader that is desirous to know more of them In the Woods and upon the Rocks near this Town we found many rare Plants which we had not before met with I mean spontaneously growing in their natural places viz. Asclepias flore albo Polygonatum minus Cyanus major Rapunculus spicatus Campanula persicifolia Sideritis flore pallido similis Ladano segetum c. June 28. From the Spaw we travelled to Aken passing through Limbourg three hours distant a Town considerable for its Strength being situate on the side of a Hill and encompassed with a strong Wall and Trench not for its Bigness it consisting only of one short broad Street nor for its Beauty the Buildings being all of Wood. The Garrison at our being there was about 300 Soldiers Before we entred the Town we were met upon the way by some of these Soldiers who very insolently stopt our Horses demanding Money of us which we were forced to give according to their discretion before they would let us pass which though it were no considerable Sum yet was more than we were willing should be violently extorted from us When we were past the Town we met also with many of these Straglers by whom it was told us many Robberies are committed hereabout Aken called by the French Aix la Chappelle to distinguish it I suppose from Aix in Provence is a free City of the Empire very considerable for its Strength and Greatness being encompassed with a double Wall and having in it 30 Churches About now some 15 years ago here happened a lamentable Fire which almost ruined the Town burning down to the ground 4500 Houses from which Calamity it was not half recovered at the time of our being there In the great Piazza or Market-place is a handsom Fountain with this Inscription about the edges of the Basin Hîc aquis per Granum Principem quendam Romanum Neronis Agrippae fratrem inventis calidorum fontium thermae à principio constructae postea verò per D. Carolum Magnum Imp. constituto ut locus hic sit caput regni sedes trans Alpes renovatae sunt quibus thermis hîc gelidus fons influxit olint quem nunc demum hoc aeneo vase illustravit S. P. Q. Aquisgranensis Anno Domini 1620. The Iron Crown wherewith the Emperor is crown'd and the Sword of Charlemaigne which he holds when he is crown'd and is obliged to wear by his side three days together and wherewith he creates Noblemen as also the Gospels said to be written by the Evangelists own hands are here kept and every Coronation sent to Frankfurt The Chair wherein the Emperor sits when he is crown'd here hath its Sides of Ivory and its Bottom as they fondly imagine of the Wood of Noah's Ark. This City according to the best information we could get there is governed by a Maior two Consuls or Burgomasters fourteen Scabins and about 120 Senators or Counsellors The Maior is President of the Scabins and executes their Sentences he is put in by the Duke of Gulick and continues during Life modò bene se gesserit The Consuls are chosen by the Suffrage of the several Companies of the City and continue two years modò bene se gesserint every year there is one chosen One that is no Senator may be chosen Consul or Burgomaster and yet these have the chief power The Scabins are Judges and continue during Life when one of them dies the rest chuse another in his place The Senators are chosen by the several Companies of which there are about fourteen or fifteen in this City Every Company chuses eight Half the Senate are yearly chosen The Territory of this City is large containing about 200 Villages and is for the most part encompassed with Mountains We saw here the manner of making Brass of Copper by mingling and melting therewith Lapis Calaminaris which changes the colour thereof from red to yellow and increaseth the weight by thirty in the Hundred But that for which this Place is most remarkable and from which it took its Name are the Hot Baths of which there are several within the Walls and others without at Borcet a great Village less than an English mile distant The Waters of Borcet at the Sources where they issue out of the Earth are much hotter than those of the Bath in England and the Springs more plentiful The People there told us and I can easily believe them that they will serve to boil Eggs in Their Tast seemed to us saltish They are used outwardly for Bathing and taken inwardly for many Diseases As we walked to Borcet we could not but take notice of a Pool whose Waters were almost tepid by reason of a little Stream from the Hot Baths running through it wherein we were assured were bred and fed good store of Fish which are put into cold Water for a moneth or two before they eat them But of the Nature Kinds Ingredients and Uses of the several hot Waters as well those of the City as of Borcet the following abstract of an Epistolary Discourse concerning them written in French and published by Francis Bloudel M. D. will give the Reader more particular Information Observations concerning the Baths of Aken collected out of an Epistolary Discourse Published in French by Francis Blondel M. D. NOt to trouble the Reader with the various Opinions of Antient and Modern Philosophers concerning the Cause of the actual Heat of natural Baths our Authors accompt thereof in reference to these of Aken is in brief as follows These Waters saith he passing through a certain argillaceous Earth pregnant with a kind of nitrous Salt almost of the same tast with the Waters of the Baths which is to be found in good quantity in the lands about this City charge themselves therewith and so become a menstruum capable of dissolving such Minerals and Metals as are conteined in the Veins of the Earth through which they run This Solution he conceives is made by piercing
probably because it is open or uncovered II. The second or Sulphureo-nitrous sort of Compus c. though they spring up in several places and have different Wells yet is the Nature of them all their Composition and Mineral Ingredients the same The Poor mens Bath hath one great Basin or Receptacle the Rose Bath four whereof two only are used and S. Cornelius's Bath of this Mine two These Waters are fit for use at all seasons being of a temperate Heat more efficacious and of greater force in their Operations than the first sort they weigh two per Cent. more than they and are of a stronger Sent. In these is never found any Sulphur condensed no not in their Wells though they be covered but when they are emptied and new Water let in as in the Rose-Bath the Water running down along the Walls and Seats into the bottom of the Basins or Conservatories the external Air prevailing upon it so spread and in such little quantity arrests fixes and condenses its Sulphur all along the said Walls and Seats refreshing the eyes of the Spectators with its Beauty and Lustre But the Water arising in the fore-mentioned Basins and covering the Seats and Walls the Sulphur again unites and incorporates with its Dissolvent and disappears and hides itself therein The Water of these Sources conteins great quantity of Sulphur very fine and sweet less nitrous Salt a little Vitriol and less Alum more of the other Minerals and Metals than the first sort or those of Borcet So that they are more compounded oleous and bituminous than any of the other Sources and though they come out of the Earth very temperate as to actual Heat yet can sick persons hardly endure them for any long time for the most part scarce half an hour III. The third sort which I call Sulphureo-nitro-vitriolic and is also of S. Cornclius differs from the precedent in that the Tast is a little more acid the Smell sweeter and liker that of Spirit of Vitriol and the Touch less oily It is of less Efficacy in use than the second sort and of more than the first Of this Source there are three Basins which with the two others of S. Cornelius before-mentioned make five in this House These Waters do agree much what in their Composition with the precedent They are very pure and clear especially in their Wells and though they seem troubled in their Basins yet taken in a Glass they appear clear IV. The fourth or Salso-alumino-nitrous kind are those of the Neighbourhood or Borcet These come out of the Earth extreme hot and in great abundance are all of the same Medicinal Quality have several Wells and are reserved in ten or twelve Houses each whereof hath two Basins or Receptacles besides which there is a common Bath exposed to the Air for the use of poor people These Waters cast off a copious Excrement or Tartar which yet is not Stone but only a Sand mingled with and united to the nitrous and aluminous Salt of the Water coagulated by the beating of the cold Air on its Superficies to which also concurs the cold of the Walls exposed to the same Air. These Excrescencies are found in the subterrancous Conduits not only of these but the other Baths in the City being held to the Fire they soon become friable and are nothing but a pure round Sand like the common The higher Houses and Basins have the more of this Tartar yet is it so little that it is not to be seen or perceived in the Water These Waters are of a different Species Virtue and Operation from those of the City are very easie to suffer and serve often for Divertisement and Recreation to persons that are in health The content of them is a great quantity of Sea-Salt and Alum less nitrous Salt a very little Sulphur and not much of Metallic Substances Concerning the Virtues and Effects of these Waters inwardly taken he discourses to this purpose These Waters taken inwardly are very available against the Phthisic Asthma or Difficulty of Breathing occasioned by tough Phlegm lodging in the branches of the Wind-Pipe against the Weakness of the Stomach Indigestion Crudities Flatulencies Vomitings Hiccoughs and inveterate Colics They dissipate and dry up all manner of Catarrhs and serous Deâ—luxions and are very proper to be drunk by those that are troubled with the Palsie before the use of the Baths They quicken the Appetite cleanse the Blood and open the obstructions of the Mesentery They are of excellent use against Hypochondriacal Maladies especially in such as have weak and cold Stomachs They mollifie the hardness of the Liver Spleen and Mesentery They dissolve and bring away the Gravel of the Reins and the lesser Stones And here he produces many Examples of such as avoided Stones upon the drinking these Waters and among the rest of some that had drank the Spaw Waters and came from thence without reciving any Benefit They cleanse the Ulcers of the Bladder dissolving not only the gross phlegmatic and viscous Humours which coagulate the Stone but even the Stone itself whilst it is yet tender They have sometimes cured intermittent Fevers of long continuance and scrophulous Tumors They dry up and heal the Itch Leprosie and other Affections of the Skin They stop the immoderate Flowing of the Menses in Women and cure the Jaundise the Paleness and Discolouring of the Skin in Virgins and finally they give ease and relief in the Gout Of all these Faculties he brings Instances and Examples in Persons that have been cured Particularly that these Waters drunk may have a power of dissolving the Stone he proves by this Experiment Taking a Stone voided by a man about two years before and infusing it in Water hot from the Fountain for the space of three days we found it saith he mollified and reduced into a soft Phlegm Which Virtue of the Waters was further confirmed to us by a late Accident for opening the Vault of a Well there was found a certain Glue or Mucilage which it 's to me probable came from the solution of the Morter of Lime and Sand in long time by the volatile and dissolvent Spirits of the Waters especially there being found no other Cement between the Stones and in that this same Glue or Mucilage mingled itself intirely with the Waters of the Fountains without any appearance of Scum or Fat swimming on the top so as Gum of Cherry or the like is wont to do in Water and being cast into the Fire burnt not but dried up These Experiments and Observations were made upon occasion of a Burgomaster of Riga who being afflicted with the Stone drank these Waters his passing his Urine through a Linen Cloth and finding therein a certain thick Phlegm left behind which being kept a while upon Paper hardned into a stony Substance From Aken June 29. we travelled through a small walled place called Altenhoven to Gulick five hours distant This is an elegant little Town built
Masters of the Companies chosen by the twelve Tribes or Companies into which the City is divided two by each Company These 24 are called Zwelvers because twelve of them only are regent at once Twelve Senators chosen out of the Companies one out of each Company by the greater Council according to our Information according to Simler by the lesser Six elected by the same greater Council as we were informed but according to Simler by the lesser out of the People indifferently where they please four Tribuni nobilium chosen by the Gentlemen two Senatores nobilium and two Burgomasters or Consuls chosen by the Council of 200. The Consuls and half this Council rule by turns viz. 12 Zwelvers and 12 Senators with one Consul one half year and the other half the next and this half that rules is called Concilium novum All the 50 meet every week and if any Decree be to be made it is dated in the presence of the Concilium novum vetus All the 50 hear Civil Causes Simler saith eight chosen by the 50 and the Concilium novum judge in Criminals alone The greater Council consists of 200 viz. 144 elected out of the Tribes twelve out of each Tribe 18 chosen by the Noblemen among themselves 24 Zwelvers 4 Tribuni nobilium 2 Senatores nobilium the 6 elected indifferently and the two Burgomasters Why the twelve chosen by the greater Council should be left out we know not and therefore suspect our Information was not good about the making up the great Council but of the 12 out of each Tribe and 18 out of the Noblemen we are sure This great Council chuses Landâ—voghts and assembles upon important occasions that concern the whole Common-wealth They elect four Stadthalters or Proconsuls out of the 24 Masters of the Companies two Sekelmasters or Treasurers either out of the twelve Senators of the Companies or the twelve Tribunes of the Concilium novum Half the lesser Council is chosen every half year at Christmas and Midsummer The Concilium vetus goes out and then the Concilium novum becomes vetus and chuses a new Concilium novum but for the most part the same are chosen again Aug. 12. from Zurich we travelled to Schaffhaussen passing by a great Cascate or Catarract of the River Rhene called Wasserfall near to which we first observed Orobus sylvaticus purpureus vernus and Hepatica nobilis growing wild This Journey we also found Vlmaria major sive Barba capri by a little Bridge not far from Schaffhaussen Schaffhaussen is seated upon the River Rhene over which there is here a Bridge part of Wood and part of Stone All Boats or Flotes that come down the River must here unload there being no passing further by reason of great Stones in the Chanel and the precipitious Descent of the water at Wasserfall This Town is well-built the Houses being most of Stone walled about and intrencht It hath two fair Streets handsomly paved besides many other small ones Here as at Zurich the Citizens when they walk abroad wear their Swords As to the Civil Government the Citizens are divided into twelve Tribes or Companies Each Tribe chuses two Tribuni Plebis and these 24 make the lesser or ordinary Council The great Council consists of these and sixty more chosen also by the Companies each Company chusing five The Father and Son or two Brothers cannot be together of the Council By the greater Council are chosen yearly two Consuls or Burgomasters two Quaestors one Proconsul and one Aedilis but for the most part they chuse the same All Causes Civil and Criminal are tried before the lesser Council Every one of the twenty four hath 52 Florens and â— modii frumenti allowed him yearly Aug. 13. we rode to Constance By the way we found Horminum luteum glutinosum sive Colus Jovis and in a Wood upon a Mountain Pyrolafolio mucronato serrato Pseudoasphodelus Alpinus Anonymus flore Coluteae Sonchus caeruleus latifolius Constance is an Imperial City pleasantly situate in a fair Level by the Rhene side and at the end of the Bodenzee or Lake of Constance called antiently Lacus Brigantinus and Lacus Acronius There is a long Bridge over the River or Lake made part of Wood and part of Stone The Streets of the City are fair and the Buildings of Stone The Council that was held here Anno Dom. 1417. at which John Hus was condemned hath made this place well known For what end this Council was assembled and what they did the following Inscription on the Council-house will acquaint the Reader Gaude clara Domus pacem populo generâsti Christicolae dum Pontifices tres Sohismate vexant Tunc omnes abigit Synodus quam tu tenuisti Ipse sedem scandit Martinus nomine quintus Dam quadringentos numerant post mille Salutis Festo Martini decem septem simul annos This Town is also famous for the Resistance it made to the Suedish Forces commanded by Horn besieging of it Anno 1598. vid. Galeazzo Yet it seemed to me but slenderly fortified having toward the Water only a Wall and toward the Land an earthen Rampart or Wall and Ditch drawn at a good distance from the Stone-Wall It hath indeed advantage by its Situation having a Lake on one side and a fenny Level on the other Aug. 15. we took Boat and crossed the Bodenzee from Constance over to Lindaw and by the way had a fair Prospect of the strong Town of Oberlingen Lindaw standeth in the middle of the Lake environ'd with Water It is joined to the Land by a Bridge of 290 paces one half of it being Stone and the other that is that next the Town Wood which may upon occasion easily be taken down and removed This City besides its natural Strength by reason of its Situation is also artificially fortified with stout Walls and Bulwarks standing in the Water that side most which is nearest the Land On that side toward the Lake are many Rows of great Stakes driven into the ground to hinder the approach of any Boat or Vessel to the Town So that a man would think this place impregnable The Streets and Houses are not so spatious and fair as those of Constance yet proper enough Several Fountains also there are in the Streets Towards the Bodenzee are two Walls and between the Walls a large vacant space of Land wherein Vineyards are planted of the Grapes whereof are said to be made yearly 100 Fudders that is 300 English Hogsheads of Wine Eight Villages belong to this City their Territory extending about three hours For Plants we found not far from Lindaw in the mountainous Woods Erica procumbens herbacea Scahiosa latifolia rubro flore Gentiana Asclepiadis folio and in the moister places Vlmaria major sive Barba capri Lactuca montana purpuro-caerulea major C. B. In the moist Meadows Pneumonanthe plentifully On the Banks of a small River running into the Bodenzee near Lindaw Myrica
then the other people of Italy That they live more freely and in better circumstances then their neighbours themselves are sensible and thereupon so well affected to their Governours and studious to maintain their liberty that upon giving them a token by making a fire upon one of the towers all the Countreymen run presently to the City so that in 2 or 3 hours time they can have ready 30000 men in Arms And withal they are so couragious and stout that they seem to have no fear at all of the Duke of Tuscany their potent neighbour but told us that if their Governours would lead them they would not fear to march up to the very Gates of Florence That liberty doth naturally beget courage and valour and on the contrary slavery and oppression break and debase mens spirits is so clear in experience that I need not go about to prove it And yet were it not so it is no wonder that men who find themselves well at ease and have something to lose or are at least in a capacity of growing rich if not already so should be very loth to change their condition for a worse and stoutly defend themselves against any that should endeavour to bring them under the yoke whereas those that are oppressed and aggrieved having nothing to lose and being already in as bad a condition as they are like to be under any other Government must needs have little heart to fight for their Princes and be indifferent which way things go The women are not so strictly guarded and confined as in other Cities of Italy but walk up and down more freely They are many of them handsome and well-favoured and notwithstanding their liberty I think more modest then their neighbours in their habit and attire they imitate somewhat the French fashions This City is very vigilant and careful to preserve its liberty Though they have 3 Gates they permit strangers to enter in and go out only at one that so they may more easily know what number are in the City for fear of a surprise They permit none to walk about the streets so much as with a Sword unless he have license from the Antiani The Government is by a great Council of 160 annually chosen out of the Nobility the commons having no interest or share therein who must be all at least 25 years old nine Antiani and a Gonfaloniere The Antiani and Gonfaloniere are chosen anew every two months These are called the Signoria and must live in the Palace during the time of their office and authority They have a guard of Switzers in the Palace of about 80. The Gonfaloniere is the supreme officer yet hath little advantage above the rest more then his title and precedency and we were told that during his office he is exempted from all taxes and gabels which the Noblemen pay equally with the Commons The City is divided into 3 parts called Terzieri each Terziero hath its Arms or Banner called Gonfalone whence the name Gonfaloniere At the corners of each street are painted both the Arms and name of the Terziero and the Bulwark they are to defend Out of each Terziero are chosen by the Council three Antiani The public revenue is thought to be 100000 crowns per ann The Olives that grow in this territory are reputed the best in all Italy OF PISA PISA was formerly so long as it continued a Free-state or Common-wealth a rich populous potent and flourishing City but since it hath come under the Florentine yoke it is become poor weak and almost desolate notwithstanding all the endeavours the Dukes of Tuscany have used to invite and draw people thither by founding an University setting up an order of Knighthood and building an Exchange for Merchants there It is situate upon the River Arnus in a fenny level so that the air must needs be bad and unwholesome for such as are not born there The most remarkable things we took notice of in this City were 1. The Church of the Knights of S. Stephen an Order founded by Cosmus the first great Duke of Tuscany 2. The house of Bartâ—lus now made a College for Students in Law and Philosophy and thereon this Inscription Ferdinandus Medices magnus Dux Etr. III. bas aedes quas olim Bartolus Juris interpres celeberr incoluit nune renovatas instructas adolescentibus qui ad Philosophorum Juris consultorum Scholas missi publico urbium atque oppidorum suorum sumptu separatim alebantur publicae utilitati consulens addixit legèsque quibus in victu vestitu vitâque simul degendâ uterentur tulit Anno salutis MDLXXXXV 3. The Domo or Cathedral Church a sumptuous building or Marble having all the doors of brass curiously engraven a double isle on each side the Nave and two rows of Marble pillars adorned with stately Altars and rare Pictures the walls are hung round about with red Velvet the roof richly gilded On each side the high Altar is a Picture and under it an inscription explaining the history of it which because they contain two of the notablest adventures and successes of this City I thought it might not be amiss heer to insert I. Templum hoc ut auctae potontiae ac religionis insigne monumentum posteris extaret Pisanis ex Saracenorum spoliis captâ Panormo aedificatum an Sanctorum reliquiis è Palaestina usque advectis auctum Gelasius II. P. M. solenni pompa consecravit A. D. MCXIX II. Pascale II. P. M. autore Pisani classe 300 triremium Petro Arch. Pis duce Baleares insulas profligatis Saracenis in ditionem redigunt Christianóque nomini adjungunt captâque regia conjuge ac filio praeclaram victoriam illustri pióque triumpho exornarunt A. D. 1115. 4. The Baptisterium having in the middle a large marble Font like the Cistern of a Fountain with water continually running into it There is also a marble pulpit curiously carved 5. The burying place called the Campo Santo because made of earth brought out of the holy Land The earth is said to consume a body in 48 hours it is an oblong square encompassed with a broad Portico paved with Grave-stones and the walls painted 6. The Campanile or Steeple a large round tower of a considerable highth so very much enclining or seeming to encline or lean to one side that one would think it could not long stand upright but must needs fall that way I suppose it was on purpose built so at first one side being made perpendicular and the other enclining to deceive the sight though some say it sank after it was built and doth really incline 7. The Aqueduct of above 5000 arches begun by Cosmus and finished by Ferdinand I. great Dukes of Tuscany bringing water to the City from the mountains about 5 miles distant This water is so good that it is carried in flasks as far as Ligorn to sell 8. The Physic-garden at our there but meanly stored with simples From Pisa we went by boat to
well He also mentions a sort of excrescence or moss or scurf which the Rocks about S. Maria el Aalia and other places on the North side of the Island naturally put forth called by the Countrey people Vercella which they scrape off with an iron instrument and having washed it with a certain liquor and mingled it with other Ingredients He tells us not what that liquor or those ingredients are they expose it to the Sun and use it to dye wool of a carnation colour This kind of moss called in Wales Kenkerig and in England Cork or Arcel is gathered and used for the same purpose in Wales and the North of England Malta hath been famous of old for a breed of little Dogs called Catuli Melitaei the race whereof is quite extinct and now their Cats are as much esteemed The Roses of Malta contend for sweetness with those of Paestum and the Honey with that of Hybla or Hymettus So that some suppose this Island had its name Melita from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifying honey The air is clear and healthful and the people long lived Not much rain falls heer yet sufficient to supply water to feed their springs of which there are several in the high grounds or small hills about the middle of the Island That these Springs proceed from rain-water only my Author doth very well prove because they are found only at the foot of little hills consisting of a certain porous stone which the Maltese call Giorgiolena or a chalky earth which easily imbibes the rain And to speak in general that all springs and running waters owe their rise and continuance to rain seems to me more than probable 1. Because I never yet saw any springing or running waters breaking out either on the top of a hill or so near the top but that there was earth enough above them to feed such Springs considering the condition of high mountains which are almost constantly moistned with clouds and on which the Sun-beams have but little force and yet I have made it part of my business in viewing the highest hills in England and Wales to examine this particular Nor have I yet ever observed such springing and running waters in any plain unless there were hills so near that one might reasonably conclude they were fed by them 2. Many springs quite fail in dry Summers and generally all abate considerably of their waters I am not ignorant that some make a distinction between failing springs and enduring springs and would have the former to proceed from rain and the latter from the Sea but I see no sufficient foundation for such a distinction and do think that both the one and the other are to be attributed to rain the failing and enduring being to be referred either to the different quantity and thickness of earth that feeds them or to the different quality the one more quickly the other more slowly transmitting the water or some such like accident 3. In clay grounds into which the water sinks with difficulty one shall seldom find any springs but in sandy gravelly rocky stony or other grounds into which the rain can easily make its way one seldom fails of them 4. They who would have fountains to arise from and to be fed by the Sea have not as yet given a satisfactory account of the ascent of water to the tops of mountains and its efflux there For though water will creep up a filtre above its level yet I question whether to so great an excess above its aequilibrium with the air whereas in pumps we see it will not rise above two or three and thirty foot or if it should whether it would there run out at the top of the filtre we not having as yet heard of any experiment that will countenance such a thing For the ascent and efflux of sap in trees I suspect may be owing to a higher principle then purely mechanical As for the Sabulum Quellem or Arena bulliens of Helmont I look upon it as an extravagant conceit of his and yet some ground there is to believe that there is a kind of earth lying up and down in veins which doth like a filtre retain the water and carry or derive it along as it lies from place to place till it brings it to the supersicies of the earth where it runs out In other places there are subterraneous channels like the veins in animals whereinto the water soaking into the earth is gathered and wherein it runs as above ground out of smaller rivulets into greater streams and where one of these veins opens in the superficies of the earth there is a spring greater or lesser according to the magnitude of the vein Nor need we wonder that springs should endure the length of a dry Summer for in many sorts of earth the water makes its way but slowly since we see that in those troughs or leches wherein Landresses put ashes and thereupon water to make a lixivium the water will be often many hours before it gets all through the ash and the Lech ceases to drop and in many Chymical preparations which are filtred its long before the liquor can free it self and wholly drain away from the earthy and feculent part Some attribute the original of fountains to watery vapours elevated by subterraneous fires or at least by that generally diffused heat which Miners find in the earth when they come to 50 or 60 fathoms under ground and condensed by the tops and sides of the mountains as by an Alembick head and so distilling down and breaking out where they find issue And in reason one would think that generally the deeper one digs in the earth the colder one should find it sith the Urinators affirm that the deeper they dive in the Sea the colder still they find the water And yet were there such subterraneous heats they are not so great as that it is likely they should elevate vapours so high through so thick a coat of earth which it must be an intense heat indeed will carry them through which heat none say is found near the superficies of the earth Mr. Hook's account viz. that salt water being heavier than fresh by reason of its preponderancy it may drive up the fresh as high above the surface of the Sea as are the tops of mountains before it comes to an aequilibrium with it is very ingenious and would be most likely were there continued close channels from the bottom of the Sea to the tops of mountains not admitting the air which I believe will not be found in many places What is said about ebbing and flowing wells in confirmation of it adds no strength for none of those ebbing and flowing wells that I have yet seen do at all observe the motion of the Sea but reciprocate two or three times or oftner every hour excepting one on the Coast of South-Wales in a sandy ground by the Sea-side not ¼ of a mile from the water which
well be accounted the boldest piece of Architecture as he saith that I think the world hath seen The Roof arched or vaulted and the vault divided into great squares or panes like wainscot after the old Roman fashion the ribs and transverse borders which terminate those squares or pannels being channelled and richly gilded and the area of each square almost fill'd up with a gilt rose The oval Portico encompassing a large area before the Church consisting of 4 rows of great stone pillars standing so thick that they show like a grove of great trees The stately porch to which you ascend out of this area by 24 steps not to mention the incrustation of some part of the walls with polished marble the excellent statues stately Altars rare pictures and other ornaments render this Church truly admirable and in all respects I will not say comparable to but excelling the best in the world During our stay at Rome we rode forth to see 1. Frescati 12 Italian miles distant anciently called Tusculum where Cicero had a villa or Countrey-house of which as yet they shew some remains Heer are at present 3 noted ville 1. That of the Borghesi with the palace called Mondragone and two others 2. The Villa Aldobrandina or Belvedere belonging to Prince Pamphylio 3. The Villa Ludovisia all of them for walks groves Labyrinths gardens and other ornaments not inferiour to the best about Rome and for cascates or falls of water wetting sports and other ingenious water-works beyond them What we took more especial notice of as having not before seen was the imitation of a tempest or storm of thunder and rain This artificial thunder they call Girandola 2. Tivoli anciently Tibur 18 Italian miles off Rome Of this City Horace was much enamoured praying that it might be the seat and retirement of his old age Tibur Argeo positum colono Sit meae sedes utinam senectae Sit modus lasso maris viarum militiaeque It stands like Frescati on the brow of a hill and overlooks the Campagna of Rome Heer are some remains of ancient temples and other buildings and a remarkable cascate of the river Aniene or Teverone The villa of Este for gardens and orchards walks and groves the Girandola and other water works is nothing inferiour to those at Frescati About 5 miles distant from Tivoli we passed over the sulphur-Sulphur-river the water whereof is warm of a blewish colour and noisom smell much like to that of the Sulphur-well at Knareburgh in Yorkshire It encrusts the channel it runs in with a whitish kind of friable stone which in many places in the bottom and sides of the channel congeals in the figure of confects or sugar-plums which they call Confetti de Tivoli Of these you have boxes full to be sold at Rome so exactly resembling confects both for figure and colour that no man can distinguish them but they are not naturally found so figured as they would make strangers believe but artificially made so by casting in moulds About Frescati we found great store of Styrax arbor growing wild in the hedges which we found no where else beyond the Seas The Campagna of Rome seems to be good land but is esteemed a very bad air and unhealthful Countrey to live in which is the reason it is so desolate and thin of inhabitants I had almost forgot one natural Phaenomenon we observed at Rome which did a little surprise us In sharp â—rosty weather in the middle of Winter the water which the servants brought up to wash with in the morning was hot to that excess that we did verily believe they had heated it over the fire nor could we be perswaded of the contrary till we went down to the fountain and found it there of equal temper with what was brought up It was formerly taken for granted by the Peripatetic Schools that fountains of springing water are hotter in cold weather or winter and colder in hot or summer than at other times the reason whereof they assigned to be an Antiperistasis satisfying themselves with that and seeking no further Later Philosophers who could not content themselves with the notion of Antiperistasis chose rather to deny the truth of the experiment and affirmed that fountain-water was not really warmest in the coldest weather or coldest in the hottest but only seemed so to our sence the temper of which is much altered according to the difference of the weather So that what is much colder than our temper in hot weather is not much colder in cold weather and so seems not so cold and on the contrary Or thus We judging of the heat and cold of other things by the proportion they bear to the temper of the air about us when the air is very cold though the water hath the same degree of cold it had before yet it may be hotter then the air and consequently seem to us actually hot and vice versa But for my part whatever the reason be I must needs assert the truth of the experiment being very confident that the water at least of some sources doth not only seem to be but really is much hotter in cold frosty weather than at other times else this water could not possibly have seemed to us as it did more than luke-warm Great store of rain falls heer in winter time to make amends for the extraordinary heat and drought of the summer Rome is a place not only well worth the seeing but very convenient to sojourn in there being wherewithal to entertain and divert men of all sorts of humors and tempers The present Romans seemed to me in their houses and furniture particularly their beds and lodging in their diet in their manners and customs and in their very pronunciation so liquid plain and distinct more to symbolize and agree with us English then any other people of Italy whether it were that we learned of them or they of us or both mutually of each other when there was that great commerce and entercourse between us and that City for so many years together To describe at large the Court of Rome with all its Officers and Ministers the Ecclesiastical government of the Romish Church in general their Ceremonies and shows the civil government of the territories subject to the Pope and particularly of the City of Rome the interest of the Pope and the terms he stands in with other Princes would require a volume alone and therefore I shall chuse rather wholly to omit those particulars for the present and pass on to the description of our succeeding voyage January 24. 1664. We departed from Rome and began our journey to Venice riding along the Via Flaminia and passing the Tiber again by the Ponte Molle or Pons Milvius At 7 miles distance from Rome we passed a small village called Prima porta Some suppose that anciently the City extended thus far which conjecture I conceive is grounded upon the name of this place Eight miles further riding
with a carneous the other with a blew flower From Lansa we went on the same day as far as Cau de Creux 5 leagues or 20 English miles from Bagnols Among these mountains we met with no brooks and scarce any water September 1. We intended to have seen the Coral-fishing heer but the windy weather hindred us The Sea must be very calm and smooth else it is impossible for them to fish for it It grows downward as the urinators told us under the hollow rocks and not upwards as trees I believe rather that it grows indifferently either upwards or downwards according to the situation of the rocks Near C. de Creux upon the mountains they find a kind of Selenitis which may be cut or flit into very thin plates like the common Muscovy-glass Upon the shore are thrown up conchae venerea of several sorts and magnitudes and other smal shells of affinity to them which they call Porcellane These they put in the juyce of lemons or citrons and set them out in an open bottle all night Thâ— dew mingling with the acid juyce dissolves the Porcellane This liquor they use for a Cosmetic They catch fish about C. de Creux as at Naples bâ— hanging a fire-brand or other light at the end of thâ— boat which entices the fish into the nets This day we passed by Rosas a strong Garrison Castillon Villa sacra and lay at Figera Sept. 2. We passed Crispia Basalon Argelagueâ— S. Jaâ—â— and lay at Castel-foulet 5 leagueâ— All the way we observed abundance of Pomegranaâ— trees C. Foulet is a small Garrison 3. We passed by Aulot where we saw a Bufalore of which there are divers in that Town It is a hole or cave out of which continually issues a cool air They keep bottles of wine fruit c. in a little house built over the cave The wine heer kept drinks as cool as if it were kept in ice or snow They say that it is the water running and falling down under the ground that makes these Spiracula which is not unlikely They are all on the left side of the river as you go to Vict and none on the right This day also we passed Rhoda and lay at Vict 7 leagues 4. We went to the hill where the Amethysts or Violet stones are found distant two leagues from Vict called S. Sigminont On the top of the hill is an hermitage and place of devotion where S. Sigminont a Burgundian King did penance The Amethysts are found lower in the side of the hill Viscount Jacque is lord of the Soil and whoever opens a mine pays him a pistol and an half per mensem They find the stones by following a vein of reddish or black earth or a vein in the rock so coloured They are all hexangular and pointed like crystal There are of three sorts the best are the blackest or deepest violet 2. Others are almost quite white 3. Some but very rarely are found tinctured with yellow They sometimes stick a great many together to the rock like the Bristow-diamonds but those are never good the best are found loose in the chinks of the rock in a fat yellowish or reddish earth They scrape out this earth with long narrow knives that enter into the chinks and then crumble it in pieces with their fingers to feel for the stones They are afterwards ground and polished upon leaden moulds after the same manner as crystal is First they use the dust of Smiril or Emery and at last of Tripoli All along the way to this hill we saw abundance of Arbutus and Rbus coriariorum called Rhondo In this Countrey they use not bark of Oak to tan their leather as we do but the leaves and branches of this shrub which they first bruise with a perpendicular stone and then mingle with water and heating the water luke-warm steep the skins in it 3 or 4 days In these mountains are also found Emeralds Gold and other sorts of minerals and stones but it doth not turn to account to search for them Topazes are found in a lake called the lake of Silles not far from S. Colonna near Girona They find them upon the shore of the lake At Vict there is a great Market-place and a Church at a Covent said to have been built by Charlemagne when he had discomfited the Saracens driven them out of Catalonia This night we lodged at Moia having travelled only 3 leagues We rode within sight of Montserret broken at the top into rocks standing like the teeth of a Saw from whence it took its name There is a Chappel of our Lady a place of great devotion This night we lodged at Casa della pobla a single Inn 5 leagues We came to Cardona 2 leagues All the way as we rode the rocks and stones were full of round holes just like those in the stones at Ancona in which the Pholades harbour and there is no question but these holes have been made by some animal before the stones were hardned We viewed the mountain of salt where were three Officers one to weigh the salt another to receive money and the third to keep accounts The Revenue of this Salt amounts yearly to about 30000 pieces of eight For every Quintal that is 104 pounds they pay ten reals of two sous to a real The salt is hard and transparent like crystal and when powdred fine as white as snow They hew it out with axes and mattocks and make chaplets boxes c. of it They say there is no end of it but that it reaches to the center of the earth Near the place where they work there are two caves within the rock of salt to the end of one of which they never durst venture to go Not far from this there is another mountain of salt where the salt sticks to the rocks and is most of it tinctured with red Of this red salt they make broad plates like tiles which they call Ruggiolas these they heat before the fire but never put them into it and use them to take away aches strengthen the stomach keep the feet warm c. Well heated on both sides they will keep warm for 24 hours Amongst this red salt there is a kind of Selenitis which some call Ising-glass and the Italians Gesso from the Latin woâ—â— Gypsum signifying chalk because when burnt it is turned into a white calx which naturally roches into Parallelipipedums of the figure of a Lozenge Of which sorts of stones are found in several places of our nation About these mountains of salt grows great plenty of Halimus and Limonium Cardona is a Dukedom containing 3 or 4 villages besides the town The Duke thereof is one of the richest Grandees of Spain having 3 Dukedoms 4 Marquisates 2 Earldoms c. The name of his family is Folke He lives for the most part at Madrid but sends every three years a Governour The King of Spain hath nothing at all to do with this
in the publick Schools but all the Students are covered both at Lectures and Disputations not only in the University but in all the Universities we have been at beyond the Seas If an desire to be admitted of the University they go to the Rector magnificus who gives them each a Seal and then they are freed from paying Exeise The Students usually list themselves under some Professor who reads to them in private running through a whole Faculty which they call Collegium instituere and for this they give a Gratuity to the Professor In conferring Degrees here is no Respect had to Standing When any one intends to commence in any Faculty he makes Theses upon the Subject he intends to answer which Theses are printed and these he is obliged to defend against all Opponents The Respondent hath his Seat under the Prosessors as in our Schools for the Opponents there is no particular Seat but in any part of the Schools where they happen to be they arise and there stand and oppose first asking leave of the Professor that presides at the Act. Any one that pleases may oppose with the Professors leave Liberalium Artium Magister and Doctor are the only Degrees conferred here Each of the Professors have 200 or 300 l. per an stipend allowed them by the States The chief Trade of this City is Clothing The Roofs of the Houses are more steep than ordinary made so on purpose to cast the Rain-Water into a Chanel or Trough which conveys it into a large Cistern where it is kept for the uses of the House Great Chanels of Water pass through many of the Streets On the Tower of the Stadthouse stands a Watchman who blows a Trumpet every hour and if any Fire happens he sounds an Alarm Below stands a Guard of thirty armed Soldiers and at each Port ten Every hour of the night a man goes about the Streets and making a noise with a Rapper tells with a loud voice what of the Clock it is In the Anatomical Theater are preserved many Sceletons of Men and Beasts Skins of Beasts parts of exotic Animals and other Rarities We noted a horned Beetle from the East-Indies an Armadillo petrified Mushromes Lapis ceraunias Caput porci fluviatilis è Brasiliâ Ala Hirundinis marinae ex Oceano Orientali Gammari Aethiopici Thus fossile Moravicum Capsula Chinensis cum capite animalis partim cervinam partim porcinam naturam repraesentante ex insulâ Celebes Indiae Orientalis Niduli crustacei ex cautibus regni Jehovae quae à Chinensibus in deliciis habentur these we saw afterwards in Kircher's Musaeum at Rome and elsewhere Folium Betle sive Siri it resembles the great Satyrion Leaf Of these Leaves and the Fruit of the Tree Arek mingled with a little Chalk is made the Indian Betle which is very stomachical and a great Regale at visits Faba Aegyptia sive Bonamicia Elephants Skulls Guandur formicas vorans or the Ant-Bear Myrenceter bigger than an Otter having a very long Snout long crooked Claws coarse bristly Hair and a long brush Tail Grallae sive Calopodia Norvegica a Fish with two Feet Capriscus Rondeletii Tigris capta in Jacatra regno In the publick Library are preserved the Manuscripts of Joseph Scaliger and Libri Orientales quos Vir Cl. Jacobus Golius impensis publicis ex Oriente huc advexit This Town is well walled and trencht about encompassed with pleasant Walks of Lime-Trees He that desires more particular Information concerning the University and publick Buildings of the City c. may consult Meursius his Athenae Batavae and Hegenitius his Itinerarium Hollandiae Before we left Leyden we made a by-Journey to Sevenhuys a Village about four leagues distant to see a remarkable Grove where in time of year several sorts of Wild-Fowl build and breed We observed there in great numbers 1. Scholfers i. e. Gracculi palmipedes in England we call them Shags they are very like to Cormorants only less We were much surprised to see them being a whole-footed Bird alight and build upon Trees 2. Lepelaers called by Gesner Plateoe sive Pelecani by Aldrovandus Albardeolae we may term them in English Spoon-Bills 3. Quacks or Ardeae cinereae minores the Germans call this Bird the Night-raven because it makes a noise in the Night Nocte clamat voce absonâ tanquam vomiturientis Gesner 4. Reyers or Herons Each sort of Fowl hath its several Quarter When the young are ripe they who farm the Grove with an Iron Hook fastned to the end of a long Pole lay hold on the Bough on which the Nest is built aud shake the young ones out and sometimes Nest and all down to the ground Besides the fore-mentioned Birds there build also in this Wood Ravens Wood-Pigeons and Turtle-Doves This place is rented for 3000 Gilders per Annum of the Baron of Pelemberg who lives at Lovain only for the Birds and Grass By the way to this Place we observed in the Ditches Lysimachia lutea flore globoso and Arum sive Dracunculus aquaticus All the Countrey about Sevenhuys towards Leyden is a flat or fenny Level full of shallow Pools of Water there we observed their manner of making Turf They rake or fish up Mud from the bottom of the Water with a Net like a Hoop-Net fastned to the end of a Pole and fill therewith a flat-bottomed Boat Out of the Boat they throw this Mud with a long Shovel or Scoop on an even piece of ground making of it a Bed of an equal thickness so near as they can there it lies to drain and dry After a while they tread it with broad Boards fastned under their feet to make it close and smooth When it is moderately dry they cut the whole Bed with a kind of Spade into pieces of the bigness of a Brick These they pile up in small conical Stacks or long Ranks laying the Turves so that a man may see through the Stacks and the Wind blow through them to be further dried At last they house them in Barns that are thatcht the sides not walled up close but made of wooden Bars set at a little distance one from another June 6. we took Boat for Haerlem where we arrived at four hours end This is a large populous and pleasant City strongly wall'd and entrenched Water is brought through many of the Streets Without the Walls towards Leyden are pleasant Groves In the Summer-House in the Garden of the Princes Court here is a Picture of Laurentius Costerus in a furr'd Gown holding the Letter A in his Hand and this Inscription over it M. S. Viro Consulari Laurentio Costero Harlemensi alteri Cadmo Artis Typographicae circa Annum Domini MCCCCXXXX Inventori primo His Statue and the Inscription on his House in the Market-place mentioned by Hegenitius we could not find being as we were told lately bought and removed thence The Butchery of this Town is a handsome Building and covered with Lead which we
the Knights of the Golden Fleece and over the upper Stalls or Seats this written in French Le treshaut tres puissant Philip dit le bon c. which because it contains the History of the Authors first Institution and Model of this Order I thought fit to translate into English and here set down The most High and Mighty prince Philip called the Good by the Grace of God Duke of Burgundy Lorain and Brabant in the year 1429. in the City of Bruges did in imitation of Gedeon create and institute to the Honour of God and the virgin Mary and for the sake of S. Andrew Protector and Patron of Burgundy a Company or Society of Honourable Knights into which might be received Emperors Kings Dukes Marquesses and other Personages as well of his own Subjects as of forein Countries provided they were of Noble bloud and good fame and called these great Persons Knights of the Golden Fleece to whom he gave for perpetual Chief him that should be lawful Duke of Burgundy and have the Seigneury or Lordship of the Low-Countries limiting their number to 24 comprehending also the Chief And for occurrences and use of the Order he created four Honourable Officers viz. A Chancellor a Treasurer a Secretary and a King of Arms. And for the Establishment and well regulating of this Order he made notable Statutes and Ordinances The Houses of this Town are of a different make from those of Holland the outside being covered with Boards like those of Edenburgh in Scotland We observed great store of wild Fowl to frequent the Waters hereabout and found growing wild Herniaria hirsuta on the sandy and gravelly Banks June 20. We took a Wagon drawn by three Horses abreast as is usual in these Countries which in six hours time brought us to Eindhoven a small wall'd Town and thence in four hours more to Haumont a pitiful walled Town belonging to the Bishop of Liege June 21. Three hours Riding brought us to another little wall'd Town called Bry the Houses whereof were old and decaying Between Haumont and this place we rode over Heaths of great extent called the Champagne We then left the level Countrey and ascended some Hills from whence we had a pleasant Prospect of the Mose and Maestricht where we arrived this Evening though it be accounted seven hours distant from Bry. This City is fortified with good Outworks besides a strong Wall and Trench garrisoned with 31 Companies of Foot and six Troops of Horse it being a great Town and a Frontier Half of the Magistrates are Protestants and half of the Romish Religion The greater part of the Citizens Romanists There are in Town near 20 Cloisters or Monasteries of both Sexes and they have the free and publick Exercise of their Religious Worship For the Protestants there are three Dutch Churches and one English and French which those Nations use alternately The old Buildings of his City are like those of the Bosch but since the States have been Masters of it it is become a rich and thriving place and they are building fair new brickt Houses space They were also setting up a large Stone Stadthouse of a square Figure resembling that at Amesterdam The River Meuse divides the City into two parts which are joined together by a broad stone-Bridge of nine Arches The lesser part over the Water is called Wick The Garrison-Soldiers are all Protestants The Common People of Holland especially Inn-keepers Wagoners Foremen they call them Boat-men and Porters are surly and uncivil The Wagoners bait themselves and their Horses four or five times in a days Journey Generally the Dutch men and women are almost always eating as they travel whether it be by Boat Coach or Wagon The men are for the most part big-boned are gross-bodied The first Dish at Ordinaries and Entertainments is usually a Salade Sla they call it of which they eat abundance in Holland Their Meat they commonly stew and make Hotchpots of it Puddings neither here nor in any place we have travelled beyond Sea do they eat any either not knowing the goodness of the Dish or not having the Skill to make them Puddings and Brawm are Dishes proper to England Boil'd Spinage minc'd and buttered sometimes also with Currans added is a great Dish all over these Countreys The Common People feed much upon Cabiliau that is Cod-fish and pickled Herrings which they know how to cure or prepare better than we do in England You shall seldome fail of hung Beef in any Inn you come into which they cut into thin slices and eat with Bread and Butter laying the slices upon the Butter They have four or five sorts of Cheese three they usually bring forth and set before you 1. Those great round Cheeses coloured red on the outside commonly in England called Holland-Cheeses 2. Cummin-seed Cheese 3. Green Cheese said to be so coloured with the juice of Sheeps Dung This they scrape upon Bread buttered and so eat 4. Sometimes Angelot's 5. Cheese like to our common Countrey Cheese Milk is the cheapest of all Belly-Provisions Their strong Beer thick Beer they call it and well they may is sold for three Stivers the Quart which is more than three pence English All manner of Victuals both Meat and Drink are very dear not for the Scarcity of such Commodities but partly by reason of the great Excise and Impost wherewith they are charged partly by reason of the abundance of Money that is stirring here By the way we may note that the dearness of this sort of Provisions is an argument of the Riches of a Town or Countrey these things being always cheapest in the poorest places Land is also here sold at 30 or 40 years Purchase and yet both Houses and Land set at very high annual Rents So that were not the poor Workmen and Labourers well paid for their pains they could not possibly live Their Beds are for the most part like Cabbins inconveniently short and narrow and yet such as they are you pay in some places ten Stivers a night the man for them and in most six There is no way for a Stranger to deal with Inn-keepers Wagoners Porters and Boat-men but by bargaining with them before-hand Their Houses in Holland are kept clean with extraordinary ordinary niceness and the Entrance before the Door curiously paved with Stone All things both within and without Floor Posts Walls Glass Houshold-stuff marvellously clean bright and handsomly kept nay some are so extraordinarily curious as to take down the very Tiles of their Pent-houses and cleanse them Yet about the preparing and dressing of their Victuals our English Houswives are I think more cleanly and curious than they So that no wonder Englishmen were formerly noted for excessive eating they having greater temptation to eat both from the goodness of their Meat and the curiosity of the dressing it than other nations In the principal Churches of Holland are Organs which usually play for some
and corroding the Minerals after the same manner as Spirit of Nitre and other Aquae Stygiae are wont to do which usually causes a great Ebullition and Heat So then the actual Heat of these Springs proceeds from the Mixture and Encounter of their Waters impregnate as is before intimated with the Mineral and Metallic Substances Juices and Spirits conteined in the Veins of the Earth through which they have their Course The nitrous Salt fore-mentioned may perhaps be the Hermetic Salt of Monsieur Rochas or the esurine Salt of Helmont Now the Water once heated being conteined in the Vaults of the Mountains as in a Stove continues hot a long time the Eruption thereof being it is likely at a good distance from the place where it did at first conceive its Heat At the long continuance and duration of the Heat of these Waters for so many ages past no man need wonder For 1. It is generally taken for granted that all sorts of Mines do grow and increase by addition converting the more refined subtile part of the Earth and which hath a seminal disposition of such a change into their own nature 2. The nitrous Salts the first Ingredients of these Waters are also restored in their Matrices after the same manner as we see it happens in the Caput mortuum of Vitriol which though the Vitriol hath been once or twice extracted from it will by being exposed to the Air again recover more whether it be by conversion of its Matrix into its own nature by a kind of Aggeneration and Transmutation or by imbibing and retaining those subtile and volatile saline Exhalations which continually ascend out of the Earth or wander up and down the Air. As for the Ingredients of these hot Waters in general he saith That besides a threefold Salt-Nitre fixed volatile and mingled or Armoniack they partake of a fixed and volatile Sulphur a Manna of Alum some Vitriol divers Metals as Copper and Iron a very little volatile Earth a certain Argilla Sand and Calaminary Flowers That they participate of Copper he proves in that the Territory of Aken abounds in divers places with Lapis Calaminaris which is as it were the Aliment of Copper For being mingled in the Furnaces with red Copper it augments it by the addition of 30 pound weight per Cent. and gives it a yellow or golden Tincture As for Iron the many ferrugineous Springs that are found within and without this City are an evident testimony that there are plenty of Iron Mines hereabout and therefore most likely it is if not certain that these hot Waters charge themselves with that Metal That they contain a threefold nitrous Salt he proves from their natural Evaporations 1. The fixed is found in the Wells of Borcet and the Emperor crystallized into small shining square grains mingled with a little Flower of Sulphur sticking to the Covers of those Wells which have not been of a long time opened It may be also found in the Chymical examination of these Waters by Evaporation or Destillation 2. The Volatile is carried up by the volatile Sulphur as is hereafter shew'd in the Description of the first sort of these Baths 3. The mingled or Armoniac is daily seen in all the Waters of the City and of Borcet swimming in little Cylinders on the surface of the Water and this is that Cream or Scum which is ordinarily found upon the Waters in the Basins That they contain the rest of the fore-mentioned Ingredients shall be shewn in the Description of the particular Baths the Waters whereof our Author reduces to four sorts 1. Nitro-sulphureous such are those of the Emperors Bath the Little Bath and S. Quirin's Bath 2. Sulphureo-nitrous such are those of Compus or the Poor-mens Bath the Rose-Bath and S Cornelius his Bath 3. Sulphureo-nitro-vitriolic such is another Bath of the same S. Cornelius 4. Salso-alumino-nitrous viz. those of Borcet a Village adjoining to Aken I. As for the Nitro-sulphureous kind those of the Emperors Bath and the Little Bath are but one Water coming from the same Source and collected in one and the same Well That part reserved in the Emperors Bath is divided into five great Basins or Receptacles that in the Little Bath into three All which might be renewed daily if time would permit the Spring is so copious But by reason of the excessive Heat of the Waters it is necessary oft-times that they stand in the Basin 16 or 18 hours to cool before they be fit for the Patients use Notwithstanding when they are come to a just temper one may bath in them and endure them a long time as those of Borcet without any Inconvenience This Source hath that of peculiar to itself that in its Well one may find distinctly a quantity of Nitre coagulated and good plenty of Flowers of Sulphur very light purely fine and well sented The Nitre sticks to the sides of the Well and so do the Flowers of Sulphur above that The which sometimes whether by the extraordinary boiling up of the Fountain or by the impetuosity of the ascending Vapours or by their own weight are broken off and fall back into the Source from whence being no more dissolved by the Water they come forth intire into the Basins If you take of this Water and let it stand in a Vessel certain days it will precipitate of these yellow Flowers of Sulphur to the bottom of the Vessel Besides these volatile Flowers these Waters contein also fixt Flowers of Sulphur a competent quantity of Nitre and volatile fixt and mixt or Armoniac a little Alum less Vitriol the Spirits and Principles of Copper and Iron a very little volatile Earth Argilla and Sand no Bitumen for let them stand as long as you please you shall find no fatty substance swimming upon them as upon the Spaw Waters The volatile Sulphur evaporates so strongly that it carries up with it a quantity of Nitre as one may see after the solution of the Vapours congeled and frozen in Winter-time when it remains incorporated upon the Walls in the places where the Iceicles were These Waters are in weight equal to those of the Spaw coming fresh out of the Source they appear whitish or bluish but having stood a while and grown cold greenish They are very pure and leave no kind of Mud or Lutum thermale behind them in cooling they yield a small Scum or Cream of Nitre Far from their Source being wrought upon by the Air they let fall a little whitish Sediment as those of Borâ—et do a blackish one They preserve the colour of Roses put into them and cause them not to wither as doth common Water The Vapours ascending from them make Silver Plate black as those of Boreet make it white The other Source of S. Quirin's Bath differs from these in no other respect save that the Water thereof is cooler It is reserved in three Basins In this Well you find neither Sulphur nor Salt-peter sticking to the sides
of Brick though the Houses be but low having streight Streets and a square Piazza It is well fortified with a strong Wall and Trench but most considerable for its Citadel which for Greatness Strength and Beauty gives place to few that we have seen Within it is a stately Palace of the Princes who for the Defence and Security of this City maintains here a Garrison of 1000 Soldiers About ten or twelve years since this Place was possessed by the Spaniards When the Peace was concluded between them and the Hollanders it was agreed that the Duke of Newbergh should have Gulick and Berg and the Marquess of Brandenburgh Mark and Cleve The main Trade and Employment of this Town is making of Malt. June 30. we proceeded on to Collen some seven hours distant from Gulick by the way passing through a little walled Place called Berchem A great part of this days Journey was through pleasant Woods We observed by the way-side and in the Woods and Hedges as we went Mezereon Germanicum Mollugo montana latifolia ramosa Pulmonaria maculosa Galeopsis sive Vrtica iners flore purpurascente majore folio non maculato and among the Corn Vaccaria Ger. Collen though it gives Title to an Archbishop who is one of the Electors is a free City of the Empire and one of the greatest in Germany The middle part of it is well built of Stone wherein are two fair and large Piazza's the Skirts meaner and of Wood. The Walls of the City are of Stone very tall but not proportionably thick and covered with a Tectum Round the Walls without is a pleasant Walk of Trees two deep Trenches and at convenient Intervals strong Bulwarks Within the Wall are enclosed 300 Acres of void ground not built upon I mean planted with Vines of the Grapes whereof we were told many hundred Tuns of Wine are yearly made In the Domo or Church of S. Peter are preserved in a golden Chest the Bodies as they would have us believe of the three Wise men of the East that came to worship our Saviour commonly called the three Kings of Collen Melchior Gaspar and Balthasar To this Church belong 54 Canons Nobles and 8 Canons Presbyters By these 62 with the Dean of the Cathedral who hath two Votes in the Election and the two Consuls regent of the City who have four is the Archbishop chosen who is not allowed to continue in the City at any time for above three days together The Government of the City is by six Consuls or Burgomasters who continue in Office during life yet but two only in power yearly seven Scabins and 150 Senators When a Burgomaster dies the Senate chuses another into his Place The Senators are chosen by the several Companies of the City and continue during life only fifty are in power yearly so the Power revolves to the same every third year The Scabins are put in by the Prince and continue during life The main body of the Citizens is of the Roman Religion yet are there a good number both of Lutherans and Reformed or Calvinists The Lutherans are allowed a Church within the Walls the Reformed are forced to go cross the Water a mile out of town to Church In one of the Churches of this Town are preserved the Bones of those 11000 Virgins which accompanied S. Vrsula to Rome and in their return here suffered Martyrdom From Collen we went up the Rhene in a Boat drawn by Men which brought us the first day to a small Village called Vidich By the way we found growing among the Corn in great plenty Delphinium suaplici flore purpuro-caeruleo vulgare and Nigella â—rvensis in some barren Grounds near the River ' Stoechas citrina Germanica latiore folio J. B. Next morning we passed Bonna a pretty walled Town with a handsom Piazza Here the Elector of Collen hath his Palace and usual Residence This night we lodged at a pitiful poor walled Town called Brisaca where we first began to have Feather-Beds laid upon us instead of Blankets and Coverlets July 6. we passed by Rineck Castle on our right hand and about a mile from Brisaca came to Andernach a walled Town of some note subject to the Archbishop of Collen Over against this Town is Hammerstein Castle belonging to the Archbishop of Triers Then we passed by two Castles of the Earl of Weets one on the right hand on a high Rock well built with a Cloister in it Two leagues from Andernach we passed by Engers and this night lodged at Coblentz a considerable City belonging to the Archbishop of Triers called in Latin Confluentes because situate at the Confluence of the Rivers Moselle and Rhene Here is a fair Stone-Bridge of 13 Arches over the Moselle which notwithstanding its diminutive Name is no small River Here is also a Bridge of Boats over the Rhene to a strong Castle called Hermanstein situate on a high Rock under which near the River is a beautiful Palace of the Archbishop of Triers whose Name is Carolus Caspar Not far hence is Helfenstein Castle near which springs an acid Water Another Well of this nature there is at Antonistein three or four hours distant from Andernach belonging to a Cloister of Carmelites who sell the Water sealed up in Bottles A third of greatest note at Zwolbach four miles off Frankfurt All these Waters are sold to the Towns and Countrey about and commonly drunk mixt with Wine to which they give a pleasant tast and purging quality I cannot say as Blondel affirms of them that upon mixture with Wine I saw them smoke or found them actually hot Indeed I was not careful to observe these particulars July 7. we passed by Lodesheim Town and Castle on the left hand and Capelle a Castle of the Bishop of Triers on the right then a large Island in the middle of the Rhene next Rens a small walled place belonging to the Archbishop of Collen on the right hand and a little further Browbach and a Castle above it About four hours from Coblentz Boppaert a walled Town of some note on the right hand and not far thence a Castle called Bornholm on the left We rested this night at a Village called Hertznach July 8. in the morning we came to a pretty pleasant wall'd Town called S. Gower a mile distant from Hertznach under the Lantgrave of Hessen who lives in a fair Castle built on a Rock above the Town On one of the Towers of the Wall by the Rivers side is fastned a brass Ring given by the Emperor Charles V. which is put upon Strangers Necks and then they are obliged to drink Wine else they are sprinkled with Water The Magistrates and greatest part of the Inhabitants of this Town are of the Reformed Religion yet have both Lutherans and Papists their Churches Just without the Walls over against S. Gower is a Town and Castle called Wellnich Somewhat further on the right hand is Wesel Town and Castle of
the greatest part of the Citizens are Lutherans who have five Churches The Roman Catbolics are allowed the free Exercise of their Religion and have within the City two Cloisters of Men and one of Women The Reformed had formerly a Church within the Walls afterwards that being taken from them they had one just without which being burnt down whether by Accident or Malice their Church is now a good distance from the Town The English Church used in Q. Maries days goes to decay The English House is made a Granary or Store-house The Countrey hereabout is pleasant and the Ground rich We found growing wild Gramen amoris dictum Ischaemon vulgare Portulaca sylvestris and in some Hedges Alsine baccifera which it was not my fortune in all this Voyage to meet with any where else July 17. we left Frankfurt taking the Post-Coach for Frankenthal After one half-hours riding we entred into Pine-Woods the first we met withal They reach'd almost to our Lodging this night which was at a Village called Geirsheim three German miles from Frankfurt July 18. at a little walled Town called Kernsheim we ferried over the Rhene and at six miles end came to Worms a great old City but meanly built and in a decaying condition It seems formerly to have been richer and more populous The Bishop is chosen by the Canons of the great Church being 20 in number All the Magistrates are Lutherans After we had passed Worms one hours riding brought us to Frankenthal or as we usually pronounce it Frankendale a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine situate in a Level by the Rhene more considerable for its Strength than Greatness The Houses are low built the Streets broad and streight The Wall Mounts and Out-works neatly kept in good repair The Garrison consists of five Companies whereof two are Citizens There are in it three Churches one Almagne one Low-Dutch and one French July 20. we travelled from Frankendale beside the Rhene through Oberskeim a small walled Town to Spier two miles and an half distant Spier though it hath a Bishop yet is it a free City of the Empire and governed by its own Magistrates of considerable Strength and Greatness The Houses are most old-built of Timber rather vast than handsom or convenient We could not learn that there was any considerable Trade driven here so that were it not for the Imperial Chamber which draws much Company hither we believe it would soon grow poor and infrequent enough The Romish Religion prevails most yet have the Lutherans their Church In the Cathedral Church are the Monuments of several Emperors and Bishops who lie interred there The Imperial Chamber consists of 36 Assessors and a chief President appointed by the Emperor besides whom there are other three Presidents chosen by the Emperor out of the Delegates Every Elector of the Empire and each of the ten Circles send two Delegates or Assessors There is another Chamber of like power at Vienna These Courts determine all Controversies arising between the several Princes and States of the Empire by majority of Vote The Subjects also of many of the Princes may appeal from their own Princes to this Court but it is not prudent nor safe for them so to do unless they first withdraw themselves out of their Territory Some Princes as the Count Palatine have Jus non appellandi July 21. we returned a little backwards and crossed over the Rhâ—ne to Manheim a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine situate just in the Angle made by the Neccar and Rhene meeting and strongly fortified The Houses in the late Wars were most of them beaten down but now they are rebuilding them apace the Prince having given the Town great Privileges to invite Strangers to come and inhabit there At the time of our being there his Highness was building a new Citadel which was like to prove a strong Piece It wanted not much then of being finished Who it was that first advanced this place to the dignity of a City and fortified it with Walls Ditches and Bulwarks this Inscription over the Gate towards the Neccar will acquaint the Reader Quod felix faxit Jehova Fredericus IIII. Elector Palatinus Rheni Dux Bavariae E veteri Paga Manhemio Ad Rheni Niâ—rique confluvium Justa spatiorum dimensione Nobilem Vrbem molitus Vallo fossa muro clausit Portam bonis civibus aperuit Anno Domini MDCX. July 22. From Manheim we rode to Heidelberg just before we entred the Town passing a wooden Bridge over the Neccar covered over with a tectum as are also many of the great Bridges in Switzerland to preserve the Timber as I conceive from the injuriâ—s of the Weather Heidelberg though none of the greatest Cities yet is the chief of the Palatinate and for its bigness populous which is much considering the Devastations made by the late Wars in this Countrey The Houses are most of Timber yet handsom and in good repair which argues the Inhabitants to be industrious and in a thriving condition It is situate on the right bank of the River Neccar under Hills of considerable highth by reason of which it cannot be made strong though it be encompassed with a double Wall and Trench In this City are five Jurisdictions 1. Aulica under which are all the Princes or Noblemen of this Jurisdiction the Marshal of the House is President 2. Cancellaria under which are all the Councils and other Officers as Advocates Doctors of Law c. 3. Bellica or the Soldiery the General is their President 4. Academica in which the Rector magnificus presides and 5. Civica The Members of each Jurisdiction may refuse to be judged by any but their own Judge before whom the Plaintiff must implead them according to the Maxim in Law Actor sequitur forum rei The City is divided into four Quarters and governed by Praetor and Burgomasters It can raise two Companies of Foot and one of Horse The Lutherans are permitted the Exercise of their Religion here and have lately built them a Church There are also Roman Catholics who have a Church without the Walls About the middle of the ascent of the Hill called Koningsthall stands the Castle where the Prince keeps his Court a stately Pile and of great capacity encompassed with a strong Wall and a deep Trench hewn out of the Rock which upon occasion may be filled with Water Over the Gate leading into the Palace is a Dutch Inscription signifying the building of it by Ludovicus V. in the year 1519. It is not all of one Piece but since the first Foundation several Buildings have been added by several Princes One part is called the English Building Under one of the Towers stood the great Tun which almost filled a Room It held 132 Fudders a Fudder as we were informed being equal to 4 English Hogsheads The old Tun is taken in pieces and there is a new one in building by the Princes Order which is
sylv altera Clus In the moist and fenny places near the Lake both here and at Constance Gratiola vulgaris plentifully Aug. 17. we rode Post from Constance toward Munchen in Bavaria The several Stages where we changed Horses were 1. Wangen a small Imperial Town two miles distant from Lindaw 2. Laykirk another small Imperial Town two miles further on 3. Memmingen a free City of the Empire and one of the chiefest of Suevia both for Greatness and Strength The Streets are broad Water running through them 4. Mundelheim a small Town under the Duke of Bavaria where we lodged 5. Lansberg a pretty Town with a handsom Fountain in the Market-place built in 1663. four German miles from Mundelheim From hence we rode through no considerable Town till we came to Munchen passing by the Ammerzee a great Lake about three German miles in length where we had the Alps or some very high Mountains in Prospect All Strangers that enter Munchen are first strictly examined at the Gate their Names sent in to the the Governour and they deteined till the return of the Messenger with leave for their Admission This City is very strongly walled and fortified and for the bigness of it is the most splendid and beautiful place we have seen in all Germany so that well might Cluverius term it omnium Germanicarum pulcherrimam The Streets are broad and streight adorned with sumptuous Churches and Cloisters and stately Houses Above all the Dukes Palace deserves Respect not to say Admiration it being the most magnificent and sumptuous Edifice for a House that we have any where hitherto seen beyond the Seas In the great Garden of this Palace we saw many rare Plants among the rest we especially took notice of the Aloe-trees for so I may well call them for the Greatness and Highth of their Stalks which shoot up in one year of which there were more I verlly think in this one Garden than in all Europe besides I mean of such as came to Stalk and Flower In this City so far remote from our native Countrey it seemed strange to us to find a Cloister of English Nuns We thought it worth noting that the Bodies of the Churches here are filled with Pews and Seats as ours in England whereas generally in the Churches of the Roman-Catholics there are no fixed Seats or but very few the People either standing to hear their Sormons or sitting on moveable Benches and Stools that so when the Sermon is ended the Body of the Church may be again cleared Having viewed Munchen the nearness of Augsburgh invited us thither where we arrived August 21. having passed by the way a pleasant little Town belonging to an Abby of Bernardines called Pruck and after that a little walled Town seated on a Hill called Fridberg Augsburgh is a great City about eight miles in Compass well walled and trenched about standing upon the River Lech The Houses for the most part well-built the Streets adorned with several stately Fountains The Armory comparable to that of Strasburgh consisting of twelve Rooms filled with Arms and Weapons of all sorts The Stadthouse next to that of Amsterdam the fairest and most stately of any we have yet seen in which there is one upper Room or Chamber very large and high-rooft paved with Marble richly gilt and painted both Roof and Walls and in all respects scarce to be parallel'd The Citizens are divided between Papists and Lutherans these latter being esteemed double the number of the former yet have they seven Cloisters of Men and five of Women whereof one English Very few Reformed here This is a free City of the Empire and governed by its own Magistrates It seems to me at present for the bigness not very populous and is I believe somewhat decayed and short of what it hath been both as to Riches and Multitude of Inhabitants which may be attributed to the Losses and Injuries iâ— susteined in the late Wars In a large Plain not far from Augsburgh over which you pass going thence to Munchen we observed many rare Plants viz. Tithymalus verrucosus Trifolium pratense album à Fuchsio depictum sive mas J. B. Pseudo-asphodelus Alpinus C. B. Thlaspi clypeatum asperifolium seu biscutatum Horminum sylv latifolium Ger. Phalangium parvo flore non ramosum C. B. Carlina herbariorum Lob. Geâ—tianella Autumnalis flore caruleo quinquefolio calyce pentagono grandi Floris tubus è calyce non eminet ut in hujus generis aliis sed folia tantùm expanduntur supra margines calycis ut in Caryophyllis Gentianellae species minima flore unico caeruleo elegantissimo an minima Bavarica Linum sylvestre latifolium caule viscoso flore rubro C. B. fortè Folia habet pilosa acuminata modicè lata nervis quinque per longitudinem decurrentibus longitudine foliorum Lini flos quinquefolius coloris incarnati ut vocant saturatioribus velut sanguineis lineolis striatus Radix lignosa est per plures annos durare videtur Cirsii seu cardui duae species Priori flos Cirsii nostri Anglicani flori simillimus in uno caule plerunque unicus verùm folia pallidè sunt viridia profundè laciniata spinulis horrida ad modum ferè Cardui viarum vulgatissimi Alteri quae jam defloruerat folia viridia non laciniata breviora latiora quà m praecedenti in ambitu spinosa Hyoseris masculi foliis figurâ suâ nonnihil similia Saxifraga Venetorum Daucus montanus Apii foliis flore luteo Another sort of umbelliferous Plant very like to the Figure of Caucalis Peucedani folio Lotus siliquosa lutea Monspeliensis J. B. near the River Lech as also Bellis caerulea Monspeliaca Ger. Doryâ—nio congener planta Thalictrum angustissimo folio By the way-side near the City in sandy Ground Rhamnus primus Diascoridis and all about in stony places Caryophyllus gramineo folio minimus not to mention those that we had elsewhere seen v. g. Aster Atticus Italorum flore purpureo Mezereon Germanicum Asclepias flore albo Anonymus flore Coluteae c. Aug. 28. we departed from Augsburgh and being loth to leave behind us unseen so considerable a City as Nurenberg which Cluver calls Germanicarum superbissimam we bestowed three days on a Journey almost directly backwards to see it The first day after the Riding of six German miles we crossed the Danow over a Wooden Bridge to Donavert a prettâ— Town belonging to the Duke of Bavaria where we lodged The second being the 29. of August we passed through two walled Towns viz. Monhaim and Papenhaim and lodged at Weissenbergh an Imperial Town of some note the Inhabitants whereof are all Lutherans it is â—ive miles distant from Donavert Nigh this Town is a strong Fort built upon a Hill belonging to the Marquess of Anspach who is also a Lutheran The third day being the thirtieth we passed through a small walled
a good fence or rampart to secure the City and other included Islands against the raging waves of the Sea in stormy weather It is discontinued by seven say some say others by five breaks or apertures and those not very wide ones which they call Ports or Havens and by which the Lagune communicate with the Gulf. Of these Inlets two only are deep enough to admit any vessels of considerable bulk or burthen viz. those of Malamocco and Lio. Into or not far from the Lagune most of the great rivers of Italy empty themselves v. g. Padus now call'd Po Athesis now Adige Meduacus major now Brenta Meduacus minor now Bacchilione Tiliaventum now Taiamënto Liquentia now Livenza Silis now Sile Anassus now Piave which especially in time of flouds bring down with them from the mountains a great deal of earth and silt which will its probable in process of time fill up the Lagune and make dry land of them For I believe at the first building of Venice no part of them lay bare at low water as now there doth Gianotti saith that antiently the City was ten miles distant from the firm land the Lagune extending as far as Oriago which as some think was so called quasi Ora lacus and and that all that space between Oriago and Fusina where they now imbark that go from Padua to Venice had been added to the firm land notwithstanding all the endeavours the Venetians could use This City was first founded according to the best Authors about the time that Attila with his Hunnes invaded Italy burning and destroying all before him by some families who seeing no end of these irruptions of barbarous nations sought refuge for themselves in these desolate Islands in the year 456 or thereabouts Others make the first beginning of it to have been before that time in the year 421 or 423. But though in the times of former irruptions many of the neighbouring people fled hither to shelter themselves from the present storm yet I believe they did not think of settling themselves heer or making these Islands their fixt habitation and uniting themselves into one City till the expedition of Attila Whenever it began it hath continued a Virgin-City having never been ravished nor attempted by any Enemy since its first foundation for at least 1200 years which is more than any other City of that antiquity so far as I have read or heard can boast of Yet is it not at present nor ever was it fortified or so much as walled about neither indeed doth it need it being sufficiently strong by its â—ituation alone which is such that it is not likely for the future ever to be taken unless the Sea quite leave it and the Lagune become dry land conjoined with the Continent For by Sea great ships can come no nearer than the haven of Malamocco and those apertures in the Lido where boats and lesser Vessels may enter are defended by strong Forts and Castles besides that every tide the Chanel doth so vary that without the guidance of an expert Pilot they will not be able to find the way in but be in danger of being stranded upon the flats This City is in circuit taking in the Giudecha eight Italian miles Viewing it from S. Mark 's tower we judged it to be about the bigness Amsterdam was then of It is divided into two parts by the Grand Canale which passes through the middle of it in the form of the letter S. It is also divided into six parts or regions called thence Sestieri three on one side the Canale viz. Castello S. Marco and Canareio and three on the other side viz San Paolo Santa Croce and Dorso duro It conteins 70 Parishes though some make them 72 67 Monasteries whereof 33 of Freres and 34 of Nuns according to a survey taken in the year 1581. since which time I believe the number hath been increased According to the same survey there were then in the City of Noble Men 1843 Women 1659 Boys 1420 Girls 1230 Citizens Men 2117 Women 1936 Boys 1708 Girls 1418 Servants 3732 Maids 5753 Artisans Women 31617 Men 32887 Boys 22765 Girls 18227 Beggars Men 75 Women 112 Monks 945 Nuns 2508 Priests 516 Poor of the Hospital 1290 Jews 1043 The Sum total is 134871. Sansovinus reckons the number of souls in his time to have been 180000 but I suppose he takes in Muran and the other Islands which in this survey are left out I am not ignorant that several late writers make the present number of Inhabitants to be at least 300000 but I believe they speak at random and by conjecture upon no good grounds as I have been often told that there are in Paris a million and half of people whereas it is well if there be half â— million there being no reason to think that the Citâ— is much increased since Sansovinus his time I find the Sum total of the number of males to exceed the total of the number of females in this survey by above 3500 which comes near to the account of the excess of males in England given us by Capt. Graunt in his Observations upon the weekly Bills of Mortality in London And I doubt not but if exact observations were made in other places there would be found the like proportion between the number of males and females born into the world in hot countries as in cold So that from this Topic the Asiatics have no greater plea for multiplicity of wives than the Europeans Little chanels of water cross and divide the city into many Islets and may rather be called the Streets of it than those narrow Lanes or Alleys Calle they call them through which you pass on foot from one place to another By these chanels you may convey your self and goods from any one place of the city to any other by boat which is the only way of carriage except mens shoulders there being neither coach nor litter cart nor wain horse nor ass used or so much as to be seen â—eer For passage on foot there are built about 450 bridges cross the chanels most of them of stone and of one arch among which the most famous is that over the Canal grande called Ponte di Rialto and for passage by water there are a great number of Gondalo's and other boats some say eight some ten some twelve nay some fifteen thousand but I believe all is conjecture and they were never numbered The Buildings are generally tall and fair the Palaces of Noblemen thick set all over the City but especially upon the Canal grande which though not vast are handsom and well-built The foundations of the houses are great piles or masts driven into the ground as at Amsterdam The Arsenal is said to be three miles in circuit they that speak modestly allow it but two well stored with arms ammunition and all provisions for war Heer the Galleys are made and laid up of which the Republic hath they say at least 200.
it of fresh water To expedite the making the lixivium they take some of the boiling lixivium out of the Cauldrons to which purpose there is a pipe comes out of the Cauldron in the region of the lixivium whereby they let out the boiling lixivium into a trough and this together with cold water they pour upon the ashes to promote the separation of the salt When the oil is boil'd away they let all cool and taking the cremor or crust of Sope off the superficies of the liquor spread it upon a floor and smooth it and so let it dry in a bed of more then a bricks thickness When it is dried they cut it long ways and cross ways into oblong parallelograms or the figure of oblong bricks there being nicks in the borders of the beds on purpose to direct the instruments to cut it This done they pare these pieces from any impurities that may adhere to them from the bottom of the bed For the beds are all strowed with Lime-dust to hinder the sticking of the Sope to the floor and run them over a plane to smooth them These large pieces they subdivide into lesser and seal them with a Seal The reason why they mix Kelp with the Beriglia is because Beriglia alone would make the Sope too soft and Kelp alone too brittle To colour the Sope green they take the juyce of Beet a good quantity and put it into the Cauldron with the lixivium and oyl The Germans will have it thus coloured and perhaps the Nitre which is in this juyce may add some vigour to the Sope. The fire is continually kept burning and so the liquor boiling till the operation be finished OF PADUA PAdua Patavium watered by the Rivers Brenta and Bacchilio is an ancient City supposed to be built by Antenor after the taking of Troy by the Grecians That Antenor came into these parts Livy who was native of this City witnesseth in the very beginning of his History in these words Jam primum omnium satìs constat Trojâ captâ in caeteros saevitum esse Trojanos duobus Aeneâ Antanoréque vetusti jure hospitii quia pacis reddendaeque Helenae semper auctores fuerant omne jus belli Achivos abstinuisse Casibus deinde variis Antenorem cum multitudine Henetûm qui seditione ex Paphlagonia pulsi sedes Ducem Rege Pylaemene ad Trojam amisso quaerebant venisse in intimum maris Adriatici sinum EuganeÃsque qui inter mare Alpesque incolebant pulsis Henetos Trojanósque eas tenuisse terras And that he founded Padua Virgil saith expresly Aen. 1. Antenor potuit mediis elapsus Achivis Illyricos penetrare sinus atque intima tutus Regna Liburnorum fontem superare Timavi Vnde perora novem vasto cum murmure montis It mare praeruptum pelago premit arva sonanti Hîc tamen ille urbem Pà tavî sedésque locavit Teâ—crorum genti nomen dedit armáque fixit And Martial uses this compellation to Valerius Flaccus the Poet a Paduan Antenoreispes alumne laris And yet some there be who will have Altinum to be the City of Antenor and Padua to have been built by one Patavius a King of the Veneti It was celebrated of old time for the chastity of its women according to that of Maritial Vda puella legas sis Patavina licet After the decay of the Roman Empire it was ruined and destroyed by Attila restored again by Narses then sackt and burnt by the Lombards and after various successes in the time of the Emperor Otho I. it obtained its liberty and was governed as a Commonwealth by its own Magistrates till first Ezzellinus the tyrant and not long after him the Carraresi made themselves Lords of it from whom the Venetians extorted it in the year 1405. though they pretend that the Padunas voluntarlly delivered themselves up to them It is enclosed with two walls the interior called Antenors wall though of a far later make is about three miles in circuit The exterior of great strength with bastions and other fortifications and deep trench before it for the most part filled with water about 6 miles in compass built by the Venetians when Leonardo Loredano was Duke in the time of the League of Cambray when the Pope the Emperor the Kings of France and Spain the Dukes of Mantua and Ferrara joyned themselves together against the Venetians as appears by this Inscription over the Gate of All-Saints Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium Asylum cujus agrum fertilitatis sumen natura esse voluit Auteâ—or condidit Senatus autem Venetus his belli propugnaculis ornavit Leonardo Lauredano Duce Venetorum invictissimo enjus Principatus varias fortunae vices excepiens quà m gloriosè superavit It was stoutly defended by the Venetians against the Emperor Maximilian besieging of it with an Army of 80000 men Anno 1610. Though it be large in compass yet is it neither rich nor populous the number of the inhabitants according to the largest reckoning amounting to no more then 38000 souls which I believe exceeds the just sum at least 10000. The territory of this City is a large plain or level and the Soil very rich and fertile so that it is come to be a Proverb Bononia la grassa ma Padoa la passa Venetia la guasta Their bread is esteemed as good as it is cheap according to that other Proverb Pan Padoano Vin Vicentino Trippe Trevisane Putana Venetiana Bread of Padua Wine of Vicenza Tripes of Treviso and Courtesans of Venice are the best in their kinds No Wood is permitted to be planted for the space of one mile from the wall round about that in case it should be besieged in a time of War the Enemy might find no shelter among the trees and this is called the Wast and is reserved only for corn There are very few Medows or Pastures near the Town which is the reason that Milk is dear heer They make bread for the poor of Mayz or Indian Wheat which they call formentone and Sorgum whereof they plant good store heerabout The most considerable buildings in the City are 1. The Town-hall 256 feet long and 86 feet wide according to Schottus by some thought to be the largest room in Europe but we judged it to be less then Westminster-Hall underneath it are Shops so that you ascend many steps to go into it it is called Palazzo della Ragione because the Courts of Justice are held there 2. The publick Schools 3. The Chruch of St. Antony called the Santo 4. The Chruch of S. Justina with the Benedictine Cloyster 5. The Palace of the Arena or Amphitheater 6. The Castle of the Magazines of Corn and Ammunition 7. The Bridge called Ponte molino where there are about 30 water mills together upon the River Brenta 8. The Palace called the Court of the Capitaneo 9. Antenor's Tomb as they would have us believe The particular descriptions of all which
primo loco Exc. I. V. D. D. Antonius Aloysius Aldrighettus Pat. in paritae primi loci Exc. I. V. D. D. Jo. Franciscus Savonarola Patavinus in tertio loco Legent primam ff Novi Partem Ad Lecturam Criminalium Exc. I. V. D. D. Joannes Galvanus Patavinus Exponet Rub. ff ad L. Jul. de adult subinde alios titulos Ad Lecturam Pandectarum Exc. I. V. D. D. Achilles Bonfiglius Patavinus Prosequetur explicationem libri primi ff Veteris incipiet à titulo de Adoptionibus Ad Lecturam Codicis Exc. I. V. D. D. Joannes Capivaccaeus Patavinus Incipiet à titulo de pactis inde ad alios titul procedet Ad Lecturam Institutionum Exc. I. V. D. D. Joseph Marchius Appulus in primo loco Exc. I. V. D. D. Nicolaus Gagliardus Tridentinus in secundo loco Exc. I. V. D. D. Ludovicus Justachinus Patavinus in tertio lcco Explicabunt materiam ultimae voluntatis incipient à tit de testamentis ordinandis Ad Lecturam Feudorum Exc. I. V. D. D. Scipio Gonnemius Cyprius Tractabit hoc anno de feudi origine nomine causis seù forma constitutione ad varios feudal libr. tit Ad Lecturam Authenticorum Exc. I. V. D. D. Toldus Bellini Constini Patavinus Explicabit authenticum sive Novellam 39. de Restitutionibus ea q. parit in 11. Mense post Mortem Viri Juncto Authentico 108. de Restitutionibus 159. de Restitutione Fidei commiss c. Ad Lecturam de Regulis Juris Vacat Ad Lecturam Artis Notariae Exc. I. V. D. D. Aloysius Angeli Patavinus Legatorum tractatum prosequetur Stephnus Giachelius Bidell Gener. The Citizens and Strangers heer dare not stir abroad in the dark for fear of the Scholars and others who walk up and down the Streets most part of the night armed with Pistols and Carbines If any one comes within hearing they cry Che va li i. e. Who goes there and if they answer they bid them turn back which if they do not suddenly do they shoot at them When two parties of these Scholars meet each man standing behind a pillar for the streets have Portico's or Cloysters on each side they shoot one at another These Martenalia nocturâ—a as some call them or Che va li's are thought to have had their original from the acidental meeting and quarrelling of some Scholars who went to the same Mistresses or Whores A wonder it is to me that the Venetians will suffer such mis-rule Heer is a publick Physick Garden well stored with Simples but more noted for its Prefects men eminent for their skill in Botanics viz. Aloysius Mundella Aloysius Anguillara Melchior Guilandinus Jacobus Antonius Corâ—usus Prosper Alpinus Joannes Veslingius The Epitaph of which last being so considerable a person I shall heer exhibit to the Reader as I found it on his monument in the Church of S. Antony Joanni Veslingio Mindano Equiti Naturae verique scrutatori solertissimo qui sapientiae Atque exoticarum stirpium studio Aegypto peragratâ Ab Venet Senatu rei herbariae Et corporum Sectioni praefectus eum Latinitatis Et Graecae eruditionis cultum multis artibus circumfudiâ— Vt illîc naturae ludentis pampam aemularetur Hîc spectaculi diritatem oratione deliniret Vt quantùm oculi paterentur tantùm sibi placerent aures Ad. extremum laboribus fractus Dum miserae plebi gratuitam operam commodat Noxio contactu publicae saluti vitam impendit XXX Mensis Aug. An. Chr. MDCXLIX Aet LI. In the Dormitory of the Cloyster of the Dominican Freres we saw the Cell of Alberius Magnus over the door of which were inscribed these Monkish Verses Quam legis Alberto Domus haec fuit bospita magno Parva quidem haud parvo sed tamen ampla viro Parvus erat subiit parvae eùm limina portae Magnus at exiguo sub lare factus erat Senserat hoc dixitque superba Ratisbona magnum Hospitem in hospitio dispare Padua colis Archisacerdotis mitram magnósque penates Accipe Magne ratis sic bona navis erit Post mojora Deus reserans palatia Magne Dixit habe magni magna theatra poli Audiit magni propylaea petivit Olympi Nam majore capi limine magnus habet Deo ter maximo numini Alberto ter magno lumini Padua is governed by a Padestà or Maior who is chief in civil matters and a Capitaneo or Governour who is over the Military both elected and sent by the Venetians From Padua we made a by-journey to Albano anciently Apoâ—a some 5 miles distant where we viewed the hot baths The Springs arise in a rocky hillock consisting of a porous stone and are so plentiful that one of them drives an overshot mill The water is so hot that in one of the sources the Countrey-people usually scald their hogs to get off the hair It contains a copious white salt which shoots upon the earth where the water runs This the common people heerabout gather and use with their meat which yet hath not the true tast of common falt but somewhat approaching to Nitre or Salt-armonâ—ac Besides it is so impregnate with stone which by reason of the salt it contains actuated by the heat it dissolves and imbibes in the stone quarries it passeth through that it suddainly precipitates it on the bottoms and sides of the Chanels wherein it runs which become thereby as it were so many stone troughs and on the mill-wheel it drives which it so encrusts with a stone of a dark gray colour that every other month they are fain to peck it off That the waters which petrifie do by running through stone-quarries wash off small ramenta or particles and being in motion support them and when they stand or settle in any place let them fall again is more than probable by what we see in daily experience the hardest stones being worn and hollowed by a constant dropping of water upon them much more will water be able to do this when impregnate with salt and that salt actuated by heat The waters of Albano are not made use of to drink but only to bathe in as at Aken Baden c. though Schottus saith that they usually drink of one of the sources We travelled to Vicenza a City less in circuit than Padua as being but 4 miles round but more populous containing between 30 and 40 thousand souls It is encompassed with a Brick-wall but of no great strength It stands upon the River Bacchilio and is also watered by the Rero or Eretenus beside two little Brooks called Astichello and Seriola It is full of Nobility and Gentry being said to have 200 Families worth 1500 crowns per annum each and better So that there is a Proverb in Italy Quanti ha Venetia de Ponti Gondalieri Tanti ha Vicenza de Conti Cavalieri Of the several changes of Government which this City hath undergone I shall say nothing but for that refer the Reader to Schottus and Leander-Albertus
between every two Bastions an half Moon It is well furnished round about with great Guns ready mounted Within the Castle is a water-mill which they told us was driven by water which springs up within the Castle-walls Schottus saith that the circuit of the whole Fortress besides the trenches is 1600 paces The Garrison at our being there consisted of about 600 Souldiers and the Castellana or Governours name was Don Balthasar Markadel We saw the Museum or Gallery of Seignior Manfredus Septalius son to Ludovicus Septalius the famous Physician wherein we took notice of a box with a multitude of Looking-glasses so disposed as by mutual reflexion to multiply the object many times so that one could see no end of them the best in this king that I have any where seen A plain plate of glass with so many spherical protuberances wrought upon it that if you lookt through it upon any object you saw it so many times multiplied as there were protuberancies or segments of spheres upon the plain of the glass Likewise a Speculum of the same fashion by looking upon which through the former you see your face so many times multiplied as to be equal to the product of the sum of the protuberancies of the one glass multiplied into the sum of the protuberancies of the other Several concave burning Specula of metal and we saw the experiment of burning by reflexion Several Engines counterfeiting a perpetual motion of which afterward we understood the intrigue Several automata and clocks of divers fashions among the rest two of a cylindrical figure which moved without weight or spring only by being placed upon an enclining plain their own weight was the spring of their motion Pieces of Amber with Flies Grashoppers Bees enclosed in them Pieces of Crystal with Grass Moss Leaves Insects c. enclosed in them A large piece of Crystal with a drop of water in it and in that water a bubble of air which as you turned the stone moved upwards A little Cornelian with a great quantity of water enclosed in it Pictures made of feathers by the Indians A great collection as well of ancient as modern coins and medals Several Entaglie Camei Nicoli The Pietra imboscata of Imperatus having the lively signatures of herbs and trees upon it Of this sort is found plenty about Florence where they polish them and make Cabinets of them Perfumed knives Persian Arabic Chinese and Japonic manuscripts and a China Calendar in wood Great variety of shells Telescopes and Microscopes of his own making A large piece of the minera or matrix of Emeralds with the stones growing in it Many musical instruments and divers sorts of pipes of his own invention Ancient Rings Indian Scepters and Bills made of stone Several things petrified Chymical Oils extracted by himself without fire The Skeleton of a Morsses head Divers and very large Rhinocerots horns Gazells horns and an Unicorns horn Curious pieces of turned work of Ivory very fine and subtil Several pieces of past and coloured glass Several pieces of most transparent Crystal-glass excelling that of Venice made and invented by himself Factitious China or Porcellane of his own invention and making hardly to be distinguished from the true But there being a printed Catalogue of this Cabinet set out by the owner himself I refer the Reader thither for further satisfaction In this City they work much in Crystal making drinking-glasses and other vessels cases for tweezers seals and an hundred pretty knacks of it they also engrave figures upon it They grind and polish it with a brass wheel upon which they put the powder of Smiris mingled with water and after to smooth it they use the power of Sasse-mort which is a stone they find in the River fast by This stone by lying in the water by degrees dies from a heavy pebble first becoming light like a pumice and afterward if it lie longer in the water crumbling to dust Most ordinary stones by lying in this water or where the water sometimes comes will as they told us die in this manner excepting the clear pellucid pebbles which are immortal We left Milan and began our journey to Turin We rode all along upon the bank of the River Navilio passing several small Villages leaving Biagrassa a Town of some note a little on our left hand and lodged at Bufalora 22 miles distant from Milan Heer in the hedges we found Fumaria bulbosa flore purpureo albo now in flower as also Aristolochia rotunda in flower We passed through Novara a strong Town belonging to the Spaniard 10 miles distant from Bufalora and rode on 10 miles further to Vercelli belonging to the Duke of Savoy a large Town but neither strong nor well peopled This Town was delivered up by the Spaniard to the Duke when Trin was restored to the Spaniard by the French We were told that the Citizens pay ten times more to the Duke then they did to the Spaniard and for that cause such as are able leave the City and remove to other places We travelled as far as a Village called Sian 18 miles passing by a large borgo called S. German Being stopt by the waters we were constrained to stay all night at Chivas no more then 8 miles forward We got safe to Turino passing by the way many waters two we ferried over viz Orco and Stura Turin anciently Augusta Taurinorum seated upon the River Padus or Po is no large City but by reason the Duke of Savoy usually keeps his Court there frequent and populous The ancient buildings are not better than those of our English Towns but there is one long street of new buildings tall and uniform and about the midst of it a large square Piazza having on each side a fair Cloyster very handsome and sightly At one end of this street is another Piazza before the Dukes Palace a fair building but not yet finished Heer is a Citadel with 5 bastions serving as well to bridle as defend the Town Heer we met with some of the Protestants of the Valleys of Lucern and Angrona who told us that by the intercession of the Cantons of Zurich and Bern the Duke hath at present made an accord with them permitting them still to enjoy the liberty of their Religion They dwel in 14 pagi or Villages have no Town are in number about 15000 souls and of them about 2000 fighting men These are divided into 14 Companies under so many Captains among whom Jean Janneville is noted for a valiant man and a good Souldier The Papists call these men Barbetti and Genevrini They are the only Protestants in Italy and have maintained the purity of their Religion all along these 1200 years They run over the mountains like chamois never shooting if themselves may be believed but they hit They boasted to us that in the late War they had not lost above 40 or 50 men and had killed 500
and makes a great sound under a mans feet that stamps upon it The same Earthquake threw up so much earth stones and ashes as quite filled up the Lacus Lucrinus so that there is nothing now left of it but a fenny meadow In our return from Pozzuolo we viewed the mountain called Solfatara anciently Campi Phlegraei which continually burns On the top of the mountain is a large excavated oval place like an Amphitheater in length 1500 foot in breadth 1000 where the burning is There are several holes or vents where the smoke issues out as out of a furnace We gathered perfect flowers of sulphur to appearance and salt-Armoniac sticking to the mouths of these vents If you thrust a Sword or any iron instrument into one of the holes where the smoke comes out and suddainly draw it back again you shall see it all over bedewed or thick set with drops of water Whence it is manifest that this smoke is not only a dry exhalation but hath also good quantity of the vapour of water mixt with it We observed that these flores of Sulphur would not burn nor easily melt over the fire by reason of the admixture of some heterogeneous body with them The stones and earth of this mountain are crusted over with these flowers of Brimstone which they gather and distil Brimstone out of As one walks heer the earth makes a noise as if it were hollow underneath and one may perfectly hear as it were the hissing and boiling of some melted mineral metal or other liquor just under ones feet One that should see this smoke hear this noise and feel the heat would wonder that the mountain should not suddenly break out into a flame This great hollow above was I suppose excavated partly by force of the burning the earth sinking down and partly by paring away the top to distil for Brimstone Five miles distant from Naples is the mountain Vesuvius so famous in all ages for its burning The ground all about the sides of it we found covered with cinders and pumice stones which had been cast out in the time of the burnings We observed also great channels like gulls made by suddain torrents and land-floods which they told us were made by water thrown out at the top of the mountain in the conflagrations Toward the top grew very few plants Acetosa ovilla where nothing else was to be seen A little lower grew Colutea Scorpioides and some shrubs of Poplar Near the top the ascent was steep and very toilsome to get up Upon the very top is a great pit or hollow in form of an Amphitheater of about a mile round caused by the fires blowing up the upper part of the mountain several times with great violence There are still about the bottom of this great cavity some small spiracula of smoke but inconsiderable and which seem'd not to threaten any future eruption We viewed the cave called Grotta di cane near the Lago Agnano This Grot is narrow and short Whatever others have written or said to the contrary a man may without any great prejudice go into and continue in it a long time even in the further end of it as some of us did above an hours space The venenose vapour whether it be purely sulphureous or also Arsenical ascends not a foot from the ground but so high as it ascends one feels his feet and legs hot If you hold your head down near the ground where the vapour is you shall presently find a fierce sulphureous twinge in your nose just as if you held your head over burning brimstone or more violent which makes a man stagger at first stroke and stifles before one be aware We carried with us a dog which by holding his nose down we almost killed suddainly and then throwing him into the lake to try whether that would recover him as is generally believed the dog being not lively enough to swim was there drowned I believe if we had left him in the air he would have recovered We then put in a pullet which was mortified immediately next a frog which held not out long and last of all a serpent which lived about half an hour The steam if you hold a candle where it comes presently puts it out I believe this vapour arises not only in this grot precisely but also all heerabout as I am confident would be found were there other grots dug out of the hill near it Going to this grot we passed through the vault or artificial high-way wherewith the mountain Pausilypus is perforated made by one Cocceius in 15 days It is said to be a mile in length but we judged it not above half an English mile It is highest at each end and lowest in the middle and yet there about 12 foot high broad enough for two carts meeting to pass one another About the middle of the Vault it is so dark no light now coming in but at the ends that those who meet cannot see one another and therefore lest they should justle or fall foul one upon upon another they that go toward the Sea cry Alla marina and they which go into the Countrey cry Alla montagna so each take their left hand and pass commodiously The ports may be seen from end to end and any where in the mid-way but in cloudy weather it is so dark in the middle that a man can scarce see his hands held up to the light This road is much frequented though the bottom be stone yet is it very dusty Near the end toward Naples we saw a window at the top They that write of this grot mention two windows made by Alphonsus the first King of Naples but we saw only this which doth yield but little light The Plants we took more especial notice of about Naples were these Trifolium corniculatum incanum maritimum majus Lotus siliquis Ornithopodii Medica orbiculata minor Medica doliata spinosa Jacea purpurea maritima capitulo spinoso Neopolitana Rhamnus primus Clus Stoechas citrina altera tenuifolia sive Italica J. B. Linaria odorata Monspessulana Medica marina In litoribus arenosis passim On the Rocks about Baiae Puteoli c. Cytisus incanus siliquis falcatis Acantbus sativus Laurus Tinus caeruleâ baccâ Acacia altera trifolia Ger. Gnaphalium maritimum Sonchus Creticus foliis laciniatis C. B. Chrysanthemi Cretici duae aut tres differentiae Faba Veterum serratis foliis Park Moly parvum caule triangulo Centaurium luteum novum Col. Cerinthe minor flore luteo Lychnis sylvestris hirta Lob. Lychnis montana viscosa alba latifolia C. B. Gramen tremulum maximum Lagopus maximus Ger. On the mountain Vesuius or near to it Helianthemum flore maculoso Col. Trifolium stellatum C. B. Vicia seu Lathyrus gramineo folio flore coccineo Colutea scorpioides Lotus arbor Arbutus Linariae graminea floribus congestis purpureis Linaria purpurea magna J. B. Genista Hispanica As you
All the ground of this fancy as I conceive is because this fish hath a bunch of cirri somewhat resembling a tuft of Feathers or the tail a Bird which it sometimes puts out into the water and draws back again We were much surprised to find of this shell-fish in these Seas so southernly and far from the scene of the Bernaclefable I shall now set down what plants we found about Catania and Syracusa About Catania Scammonea Monspeliacoe affinis Park Plumbago Plinii Aganus castus which two we observed also in many other places Cruciata marina Anonis marina procumbens flore luteo jam descripta Sedum minimum non acre totum rubrum flore hexaphyllo purpureo Upon Mount Aetua we found Tragacantha C. B. Towards the top of the Mountain we observed Barberry-trees growing plentifully which is a rare shrub in hot Countreys and which we found no where else in Italy or Sicily At Messina they shewed us for a rare plant the common Goose-berry bush About Syracusa Thymum Creticum Ger. Origanum flore albo capitulis squammatis rotundis Verbascum 4 Matthioli The same kind of Melissa we found about Messina and have already described Teucrium Baeticum Jacea lutea capitulis spinosis Lagopus quaedam procumbens spicâ longiore Anonis purpurea minima supina non spinosa Many others we might doubtless have found had it been safe for us to have searched the Rocks near this City OF MALTA THE Island of Malta is 20 miles long 12 miles broad and 60 miles in circuit distant from the primo terreno or nearest part of Sicily 60 miles from the Cape of Calipia anciently called Promontorium Mercurii the nearest point of the Continent of Africa 200 miles as divers of the most skilful and experienced Pilots did affirm to Abela for an undoubted truth from the Cape of Spartivento in Italy but 190. So that upon account of vicinity it is rather to be attributed to Europe than Africa especially if we allow Sicily to have been of old time united to and so part of the Continent The reason why others make it a member of Africa is because the present Inhabitants of the Countrey speak a kind of Moresco or Arabic The old City called Città notabile situate about the middle of the Island hath 35 degrees 15 minutes of Northern latitude and the longest day there is of 14 hours 52 minutes I am not ignorant that Heylin and others who reckon this among the Isles of Africa place it nearer the Coast of Barbary assign it less latitude and allow the longest day no more then 14 hours but I do in these and other particulars follow the more accurate observations of Johannes Franciscus Abela a learned man and native of this Island in his Malta illustrata written in Italian and published in Malta Anno 1646. in folio The whole Island from the shallowness of its soil there being in few places above two foot depth of of earth before you come to firm stone and from the lowness of its situation not much elevated above the level of the water and having no considerable hill in it seems to have been in the most ancient times nothing else but a great Rock wholly overwhelmed and covered with the Sea especially if we consider the multitude of Sea shells of all sorts Sharks teeth vertebres of Thornbacks and other fish bones petrified found all over the Island even in the highest parts of it and most remote from the shore For that these were formed by some plastick power in the stone-quarries being nothing else but the effects or productions of nature sporting her self in imitation of the parts and shells of these animals I can hardly be induced to believe nature which indeed is nothing else but the ordinary power of God not being so wanton and toyish as to form such elegant figures without further end of design than her own pastime and diversion But a very likely thing it is that the Sea being shallow above this Rock for some ages before it came to be uncovered there should great beds of Shell-fish harbour and breed in so convenient a place and the water leaving them their shells remain and petrifie I confess its hard to imagine how the carcasses of so many Sharks should come to be lodged heer as by the multitude of teeth that have been for so many years past and are still daily digg'd up we must needs grant unless perchance they remain of the heads of such Sharks as were caught and eaten by the Fisher-men who it is likely after the discovery of this Rock frequented heer and made it a station for fishing before it came to be inhabited To this difficulty Mr. Steno returns answer in these particulars 1. That such Sharks or Sea dogs have each of them 60 teeth and more and that all the time they live they breed new teeth 2. That the Sea agitated by the winds is wont of protrude thosebobodies it meets with towards some one place and there heap them together 3. That Sharks swim in great troops or sholes and consequently that the teeth of many of them may have been left in one place 4. That in the Malta earth besides these Sharks teeth are found also sundry Cochle-shells so that if the number of teeth should encline a man to ascribe their production to the earth on the other hand the make of the same teeth and the abundance of them in every animal and the earth like the bottom of the Sea and other marine bodies found in the same place do favour the contrary opinion The soil notwithstanding the rockiness and shallowness of it hath been by the Ancients celebrated for fertility Fertilis est Melite sterili vicina Cosyroe Insula Ovid. Fast But undeservedly if we understand it of Corn for there is not much Wheat sown heer and that we saw upon the grounds was but thin and slight And though Barley be their chief crop and of which the Countrey people make their bread yet have they not near enough of that to serve the ordinary uses of the Inhabitants so that they are forc'd to fetch most of their Bread-corn out of Sicily The main commodities which the Island yields wherewith the Inhabitants drive a good trade and inrich themselves are 1. Cumin-seed which they call Cumino agro or sharp Cumin of which are gathered about 3000 Cantares yearly one Cantare being equal to 116 pound weight English 2. Annise-seed which they call Sweet-cumin of which are gathered and transmitted into Foreign parts 1000 Cantares yearly These seeds are sold at 7 8 or 9 crowns the Cantare and we were told that the year before our being there Ann. 1663. were vended 7000 Cantares of both sorts 3. Cotton-wool called in Latine Xylon or Gossipium of which they send abroad yearly 14000 Cantares in the husk They have of late begun to plant Indigo which my Author saith agrees with the soil and likes and thrives there very
a year They have also magazines or stores of wine oil and all other necessaries The Alberghi or Halls of the eight several Nations Lingue they call them of the Order The Nations are French Italian German English Provençal Auâ—ergnois Castilian and Aragonian These Albergs are most of them fair buildings like Colleges and in each of them is a public hall wherein the Knights of each Nation dine and sup as many as please the others have their parts or demensum sent to their lodgings or dispose otherwise of it as they see good The Seignior of each Nation is superiour of the Alberg Grand Prior of his Nation of the Great Cross Gran Croce they term it and one of the Privy Council to the Great Master These are distinguished from the rest by a great white Cross upon their breasts made of silk sown into their garments Heer is an Alberg for the English Nation or rather a piece of ground enclosed with the foundation of an Alberg the walls being scarcely reared up This ground we were told some of the Citizens would have bought and built upon but the Grand Master and Council refused to sell it not despairing it seems that one day our Nation may be reduced again to the obedience of the Romish Church The Armory Salad Armi within the Palace of the Great Master consisting of two rooms the one which they call the Hall the fairest and largest room employed for such an use that we have any where seen the other much lesser In both together are kept arms for 30000 men so entire clean bright and fit for use that we were much taken with the sight of them Heer are some of those little Drakes that may be charged behind a leather gun and other curiosities the like whereto we have seen in several Armories The Hospital Infermaria a fair building which they are now enlarging The sick persons are served by the Knights viz. such a number of Knights are appointed to carry them their meat daily with cap in hand which thing we saw them do in this manner The meat was all brought into the middle of a great room where many of the sick lay Then one of the Knights the Steward I suppose he was read the names of the sick one by one out of the Physicians bill wherein was prescribed each sick persons diet As he read a name the Cook took his part whose name was read and dishing it up delivered it to one of the Knights who carried it to his bed-side where stood a stool covered with a napkin having bread and salt upon it This duty their very name intimates to belong to them viz. Knights i. e. Servants of the Hospital and therefore we may be excused if we have been more particular and circumstantial in describing the manner of it If any of the Order falls sick he is not to stay in a private house but must presently repair hither where he is most carefully tended one or two Knights being appointed to be always by him The Palace of the Great Master where he hath several Apartments for Winter and Summer There is also a stable of good horses in which besides coach-horses and ordinary saddle-horses are kept 40 or 50 great horses A thing worth the nothing in this Island where there is so great scarcity of horses that Knights and persons of quality ride upon no better then asses The Slaves prison a fair square building where all the Slaves in the City lodge every night so long as the Gallies are abroad in Corso At the ringing of the Ave-Mary bell which is just at Sun-set they are to repair thither When the Gallies are at home those that belong to private persons are permitted to lodge in their Masters houses The number of Slaves now in Town was about 2000 belonging to the Order and 300 to private persons besides those that were abroad in the Gallies Besides this new City there are 3 considerable Towns distant from it only by the breadth of the haven 1. The Isola as they commonly call it or Town of Senglea with the Fort of S. Michael seated in a Peninsula made by 2 creeks running out of the principal haven It contains 994 houses and 4050 souls For the stout resistance it made to the Turks in 1565 it obtained the name Città invitta 2. The Borgo as they call it i. e. Burgo del Castello à mare built likewise on a little Lingua or neck of land between two creeks of the same haven on the utmost cape whereof stands the Castle of St. Angelo divided for greater strength from the Town by a ditch of water cut cross the lingua This Burgh contains 782 houses and 3063 souls For its valour and fidelity in holding out so resolutely against the Ottoman Army besieging it Anno 1565 it is deservedly honoured with the title of Città vittoriosa Between these two Burghs is a secure Harbour where the Gallies and most of the other Vessels of the City lie which in time of danger is shut up with a great iron chain 3. Birmula rather a suburb of Senglea then a distinct Town it contains 642 fires and 2778 souls We rode out to see some part of the Countrey passing two great Villages Casales they name them we came to the old City called anciently Melita after the name of the Island now Città notabile a small place at present but wel fortified containing no more then 565 houses and 2620 souls It hath been formerly much greater and incomparably more populous The new City as being more conveniently situate daily draining away and withdrawing its inhabitants Heer they shew'd us the Pillar of S. Paul as they call it where when he stood preaching as they fondly believe or at least would perswade us his voice was heard distinctly all over the Island 2. The Grâ—t of St. Paul Heer out of a small cave is taken that white earth called Terra di S. Paolo and by some terra sigillata Melitensis which they seal and sell to strangers attributing thereto great vertues against all poison and infection This cavern though there be continually great quantities of earth taken out of it according to their conceited tradition retains still the same dimensions becoming no greater then it was at first That S. Paul suffered shipwrack on the coast of this island and wintered heer and not on that other Melita in the Adriatic Sea on the coast of Dalmatia now called Meleda I think it sufficiently proved and made clear by Cluverius Abela and others but that upon occasion of a Viper fastning on his arm he changed all the Serpents of the Island into stones and endued the earth with an Alexipharmical quality to resist and expel poison is a superstitious and ungrounded fancy From the old City we rode on to the Great Masters Boschetto where he hath a pretty little Palace in form of a Castle from the top
fly out a great way further to Sea for what reason we cannot easily imagine perhaps only to sport themselves in the Sun Howbeit we do not remember to have seen any other land-insect fallying out so far from land And now that we have made mention of the Cicada it may not be amiss by the way to take notice of a common error committed in our English Schools in translating or rendring this word Cicada in English by Grashopper whereas a Cicada is a much different insect of a rounder and shorter body that sits commonly upon trees and makes a noise five times louder then a Grashopper whose true name in Latine is Locusta and not Cicada Of these Cicadae there are great numbers in the hot Countreys but none on this side then Alps and Sevenes This night we lodged at Astura where yet remain some ruines of an ancient Town and the foundations of some buildings in the water Not far hence the fourth day we passed the new Town of Antio and about a mile distant great ruines of the old Town and of a great mole for the Haven and this night lodged at a little tower called S. Michael near the mouth of the River Tiber not far from Ostia The 5th day we hed a favourable gale of wind which brought us to a little place called S. Stefano not far from Orbetello This day we passed in sight of Civita Vecehia and Porto Hercole compassing Monte Argentaro The 6th day there happened a great Borasco as they term it that is a storm of thunder lightning and rain accompanied with a violent wind which continued all the sorenoon in the afternoon we rowed about 18 or 20 miles and put in to a little Cove or harbour under a tower called Calo di Furno On the Sea-shore heerabout we found those opercula concharum which some naturalists make to be stones and call Vmbilici marini The Italians call them S. Lucies eyes The 7th day we proceeded as far as the Island Troia when the wind being contrary we were forced to take up at a little harbour under the shelter of a small tower called Lo Molino The 8th day we passed Piombino a walled Town which hath a Prince of its own Populonia P. Barreto S. Vincentio Castagneto and Vada and lodged at a tower called Castiglione The 9th day it having blown hard all night notwithstanding there was no wind stirring in the morning we found the Sea very rough yet through the good providence of God we got safe into Ligorn about noon The Plants we took more especial notice of in this voyage were Rosmarinum vulgare cedrus Lycia folio retuso Bellonii Barba Jovis frutex on the rocks and cliffs by the Sea side in many places Cruciata marina on the sands at Astura plentifully Thlaspi capsulis sublougis incanum J. B. ibid. Cichorium verrucarium sive Zacyntha at the mouth of Tiber and about S. Stefano plentifully Lotus siliquosa lutea Monspeliensis J. B. besides another sort of Lotus with a longer and flenderer cod Aristolochia clematitis A semper-virent shrub with a leaf like Oleander Terebinthus Paliurus Thlaspi biscutatum Ambrosia vulgaris which it was not our hap to meet with elsewhere in all our travels Cirsii quoedam species quae jam defloruerat at S. Stefano Chamaerrhiphes sive Palma humilis about Orbetello and elsewhere on the cliffs of Hetruria Draba quaedam filiquosa foliis longis angustis incanis Euphrasia pratensis lutea Phillyrea angustifolia in montosis propè maris litus in toto hoc tractu frequentissima Phillyrea serrata 2 Clus Colutea minima sive Coronilla Ger. In rupibus maritimis propè turrim Castiglione OF FLORENCE FRom Ligorn we travelled through Pisa to Florence a City which answers its name and epithete Fiorenza la bella Florence the fair Yet for beauty in my opinion it must give place to Antwerp and some other Cities in the Low Countreys only it excells them in multitude of large stone-palaces scattered up and down the streets sch as are those of the Grand Duke both the old and the new called the Palazzo de Pitti because purchased of them of the Strozzi the Salviati c. Many of the streets are streight which adds no little to the beauty of them They are all paved with great broad stones like Luca or Collen in Germany yet but narrow as in many other Towns of Italy and Gallia Narbonensis to keep off the scorching beams of the Sun in summer time which reflected from these broad stones would else make them more than sufficiently hot The Paper-windows and they too for the most part broken and tattered do very much disgrace the fair stone-houses The River Arno divides this City into two parts which are joyned together by 4 fair stone-bridges one of which called Ponte vecchio or the old bridge hath on each side it a row of Goldsmiths-shops All of them but especially the two middlemost are remarkable for the breadth and flatness of their arches The circuit of the walls is said to be 6 Italian miles but therein is comprehended a great deal of wast ground I mean not filled up with buildings the gardens and walks of the Great Dukes Palace being at least a mile in compass besides on the other side the River are some hundreds of acres of land taken up in vineyards and gardens belonging to private persons The number of Parishes taking in the 12 Priorates is 44 the number of Inhabitants according to Schottus 85000 souls and I believe he exceeds in his account though some make them 90000 and other 100000. There are an incredible number of Nunneries Schottus saith 54 we were told 56 whereas there are but 24 Monasteries of Freres But that which is most strange is the multitude of Hospitals and Alms houses of which there are said to be 37 one of which viz. the Orphanotrophium maintains 900 persos and hath 70000 crowns yearly revenue This City is of no great strength being encompassed only with an old-fashioned wall but the Great Duke hath 3 Castles or Cittadels in it I think rather to bridle then defend it one on the South-side held by a good Garrison neatly kept and diligently watcht wherein are laid up Arms for 30000 men Another is a small Fortress in lthe Gr. Dukes garden to which he may retire in case of any suddain danger or exigent heer they say his treasure or a good part of it is kept The third we viewed not The Churches in Florence though they be not so richly gilded as some we have seen yet for their Architecture they excel most especially the Domo or Church of S. Maria Florida which is some mens opinion is the compleatest structure that ever was set upon the earth The pilasters the support the nave or body of the Church stand at so great a distance and are withal so very slender that they do not obscure the Isles but at one view you enjoy the whole Church Besides the
Quirinalis which is thence called Monte Cavallo The statues of Laocoon the trunk of Hercules and Cleopatra in the Popes garden called Belvedere The famous statue of the Bull in the D. of Parma's palace called II Toro di Farnesi The incomparable statue of Venus in the Duke of Tuscany's villa made by Apollodorus the Athenian Venus verecunda ib. Marsyas hung up by the hands ib. The Wrestlers ib. The Countrey-man who discovered Catiline's conspiracy in a sitting posture with a wood-knife in his hand ib. The statue of Meleager in the palace of the Pichini The statue of Pasquin whereon the Libels use to be fastned The statue of the fellow plucking a thorn out of his foot in the Capitol The statue of the sheewoolf giving suck to Romulus and Remus in brass esteemed the ancientest in Rome The Gladiator in white marble worth its weight in gold in the Villa Borghese A copy of this in brass stands in S. James's Park London Two statues resembling friendship in the Villa Ludovisia Of Altar-stones grave-stones and other stones with inscriptions there is great plenty in all quarters of the City Of ancient Medals and Entaglie there are daily digged up store and no wonder it is this having been the seat of the Empire so long They are to be sold in many shops and I have frequently seen of them lying upon the stalls in the market-places Divers also of the Virtuosi have collected whole series of imperial medals Of sepulchral urns of several fashions and magnitudes some made of earth some of stone there are abundance to be seen in the ville gardens and palaces of the great persons and in the Cabinets of the Virtuosi As for sacrificing vessels and instruments lachrymal urns ancient lamps rings fibulae and other implements tesserae hospitalitatis weights c. several antiquaries there are in town who have likewise made collections of them as Leonardus Augustinus the then Popes Antiquary and John Petro Bellori a very ingenious person and skilful in Antiquities who shew'd us a great number of these things and very well conserved That worthy and ingenious Gentleman Cavalier Carlo Antonio dal Pozzo shew'd us some 20 volumes in folio wherein were the figures of most of the Antiquities in and about Rome drawn exactly by the hand In one of these were all the vessels and instruments used about sacrificing In others of them we noted the Crepundia antiqua which were little images made of earth like children hares apes c. found in urns The Sistrum of Cavalier Gualdi figured in Roma Antica Ancient Staterae ancient weights Of these ancient weights we saw in the museum of Leonardus Augustinus some made of a dark red stone handsomely polished of the figure of Holland cheeses and of several magnitudes marked on one side with the number of ounces or pounds which they weighed Of these weights I have seen two in the Church of S. Maria in Cosmedin called Schola Graeca and two in the Church of S. Maria in Trastevere of the bigness of good large Holland cheeses which they have a tradition and have inscribed on the wall where they were hung up that they were stones that the heathens hung at the feet of Christian Martyrs when they suffered to stretch and torment them A medal with the figure of a talus on one side and on the other this inscription Qui ludit arrham det quod satis sit The ancient Fritillus or dice-box like those now in use The ancient Strigiles A medal of that sort that was used to be hung about slaves necks having on the one side the figure of the wolf with Romulus and Remus hanging at her paps on the other in 3 concentrical circles these words Tene me nè fugiam revoca me in foro Trajani purpuretica ad Pascasium Dominum meum A drinking glass made like a Priapus which explains that of the Poet Vitreo bibit ille Priapo The ancient timbrel like those we have seen used now a days It is made in fashion of a sieve the bottom of it on which they strike of vellum the rim of wood having several long holes or crannies in it wherein are hung round pieces of brass like great medals upon their centers besides there is a string cross the instrument hung full of bells Rome is a large City but seemed to us not so populous as either Venice Milan or Naples they reckon the number of inhabitants to be about 120000 souls besides strangers of which there are a great number always heer The extent of the walls is greater than of any City in Europe viz. 13 miles but they take in a great deal of wast ground The City is now crept down from the hills upon which the chief of it formerly stood into a valley by the rivers side surrounded with hills It is generally well built many of the streets straight and adorned with a great number of stately palaces scattered up and down all over the town full of Monasteries and Churches of which they say of all sorts there are above 300. It is well served with all provisions for the belly yet are not things generally so cheap there as either at Naples or Florence Their beef as I intimated before is very good not much inferiour to ours in England Before they kill their beasts they put them in a great heat and chafe for the same reason I suppose that we hunt Deer and bait Bulls in England viz. to make the flesh eat more tender and short which yet spoils the colour of the meat and in some mens judgment the taste too disposing it to putrefaction Their sucking veal which they call vitella mungana they imagine all Europe cannot parallel for goodness and delicacy Their kid or Caprette is also accounted very good meat and so is their Swines-flesh Their Mutton is the least commendable as being for the most part tough and dry Tame fowl they have as good and savory as in any place v. g. Hens Capons Turkeys tame Pigeons Geese are seldom heer to be sold Plenty also there is of wild foul of the best sorts and cheap enough as Partridge of two kinds the common and red legg'd Partridge Wood-cocks Snipes Duck and Mallard Wigeon Teal Gray green and bastard Plover Curlews Quails Of small birds the greatest plenty that I have any where seen as Thrushes in winter time an incredible number Blackbirds store Larks infinite One would think that in a short time they should destroy all the birds of these kinds in the Countrey For besides that you never fail of great numbers of them in all the Poulterers shops there is every afternoon a market of small birds wherein they are sold by the Countrey people Besides the forementioned there are sometimes to be sold Cranes wild Geese Shell-drakes Avosettae Water Hens Berganders and several other sorts of wild fowl I have seen lying frequently in the Poulterers shops and therefore I presume some people eat them such Birds
and proceeding on about 15 miles further we passed near to Chioza a large Town built among the lagune and Pelestrina a village standing upon the Argine or Lido we entred into the lagune at the haven of Malamocco and soon after arrived at Venice Feb. 9. of which City we have already written as much as suffices for our purpose We began our journey from Venice to Geneva by the way of Rhoetia and Swizzerland Passing by boat to Mestre 7 miles and from Mestre to Treviso by coach 12 miles At Treviso we took horses and a Vitturine for Trent in which journey we spent two days and an half it being almost 80 miles riding The first day we passed through C. Franco 12 miles and then over a fair champian Countrey to Bassano a very handsome and pleasant walled Town upon the river Brenta over which there is a good bridge of wood This Town drives a great trade of weaving silks As soon as we were past Bassano we entred among the mountains going up beside the river Brenta 14 miles and lodged at Pont Sigismund The second day we rode still up beside the river and about 2 miles from Ponte we passed through a gate where we paid Datii to the Arch-Duke of Inspruck At this pass is hewn out of the rock a box or little castle called Caâ—olo a great height above the road to which there is no avenue at all but both the Souldiers that keep it and all their provisions must be drawn up by rope and pully only there is a fountain of fresh water in it Notwithstanding that this fortress belongs to the Arch-Duke yet the Venetian territory extends 4 or 5 miles further to a place called Sixteen miles riding brought us to a pretty little Town called Bergo and 13 miles more to Perzine a rich and populous Borgh 5 miles short of Trent Near this Town is a good valley but at our being there the snow was not melted Between Bassano and Ponte the Countrey on the left hand the river Brenta as we went up belongs to the Sette Commune and on the right hand to Bassano Upon the river were several saw-mills and a great quantity of timber floted down the stream to Padua As soon as we got among the mountains we every where found stoves in the houses instead of Chimneys The plants we observed in this journey were Erica Pannonica 4. Clus now in flower upon the sides of the mountains and the Rocks plentifully Fumaria bulbosa Leucoium bulbosum vulgare C. B. Leuc. bulbosum minus triphyllon J. B. We got early to Trent a pretty little City seated upon the river Athesis at the foot of the mountains which do encompass it almost round save the valley where the river runs The inhabitants speak altogether Italian and the Venetian money passes current among them notwithstanding their present Prince is Arch-Duke of Inspruck Beside the North door of the Domo we found the monument of Matthiolus having on it these inscriptions Above Herbarum vires nec rectiùs edidit alter Nec mage te clarus hac super arte fuit Si mens ut corpus depingi posset imago Vna Dioscordis Matthiolique foret Under his Effigies this D. O. M. Petro Andreae Matthiolo Senensi III Caesarum Ferdinandi Maximiliani Rudolphi Consiliario Et Archiatro Et Hieronymae Comitissae ex aâ—tiqua illustri Castellanorum seu Comitum Varmi familia Ferdinandus Matthiolus Caesari Ferdinando Austriae Archiduci Joanni Georgio Saxoniae Electori à consiliis cubiculis medicus Apostolica Imperiali auctoritatibus Sacri Pala tii Lateranen Aulaeque Caesareae comes Et armatae militiae eques auratus Vna cùm Maximiliano fratre Anniversariis precibus institutis Parentibus bene merentissimis PP Ann. MDCXVII Vixit ille an LXXVII Ann. Christi MDLXXVII obiit Tridenti Vixit illa an XXXII Obiit ibidem An. Dom. MDLXIX Below this Distich Saxa quidem absumit tempus sed tempore nunquam Interitura tua est gloria Matthiole On the front of the Quire is this following inscription concerning the Council held in this City Sacrosanctum postremum Oecumenicum generale Concilium fuit in hac celeberrima civitate celebratum quidem sub Papa Paulo III Anno MDXLV XIII Decembris pro felice inchoatione fuit facta Processio generalis per totam Urbem ab Ecclesia Sanctissimae Trinitatis ad hanc Ecclesiam Cathedralem quâ finitâ primus Cardinalis Praesidens qui postea fuit Papa Julius III prout etiam alter Card. Praesidens fuit Papa Marcellus II nominatus in hoc loco eminentiore tunc magis amplo ad celebrandum Concilium Sessiones faciendas deputato ad altare S. Gloriosissimi martyris Vigilii hujus Ecclesiae patroni celebravit missam de Spiritu S. Ac reliquis caeremoniis peractis fuerunt sub D. Paulo III celebratae octo publicae Sessiones cum decretis aliae tres ob vastam pestem in hac Urbe grassantem Bononiae ubi nihil fuit decretum Anno MDXLVII Postea cessante peste bellis fuit reductum hoc Concilium in hoc eodem loco fuerunt sub Papa Julio III celebratae aliae publicae sex Sessiones cum Decretis Annis 1551 1552 quibus interfuerunt tres Seren issimi Principes Ecclesiastici S. R. I. Electores Archiepiscopi Moguntinus Trevirensis Coloniensis 1° Die Septemb. 1551. hanc Urbem ingressi prout etiam Serenissimus Elector Brandenburgensis duos oratores huc ablegavit Demum sub Papa Pio IV Anno 1561 1563 fuerunt celebratae ultimae novem publicae Sessiones cum Decretis in Ecclesia S. Mariae majoris hujus urbis istius Ecclesiae Reverendissimo Capitulo incorporata sicuti etiam Ecclesia S. Petri. Et nihilominus ad pedes Sanctissimi Crucifixi tum in hoc loco existentis nunc aliò translati pro Decretorum corroboratione scmper fuerunt publicata omnia dicti Concilii Decreta Interfuerunt sub dictis summis Pontificibus celebrationi Cardinales Legati 13 inter quos Christophorus Madrucius non Legati 4 inter quos Ludovicus Madrucius Oratores Principum totius Europae 29 Patriarchae 3 Archiepiscopi 33 inter quos Archiepiscopus Rossaniensis qui postea fuit Vrbanus 7 nominatus Episcopi 233 Abbates 18 Generales ordinum 12 Theologiae Doctores 148 Procuratores 18 Officiales Concilii 3 Cantores 9 Natarii 4 Cursores Papae 2. Sacrosancto Spiritui S. omnium Conciliorum directori sacratissima Die Pentecostes Anno 1639. dicatum Heer are no remarkable Churches or other buildings The Bishop is both spiritual and temporal Prince Under him there is a Governour who yet can do nothing without the Council which consists of 8 persons viz. The Podestà or Mayor of the City the Capitaneo two Canons of the Church and 4 Gentlemen or Citizens All these are nominated and appointed by the Bishop and continue in power during life modò bene se gesserint There
be 14 Canons bel onging to the Cathedral all Noblemen and by these the Bishop is chosen The Bishops name then was Sigismundus E. of Tirol commonly called Arch-Duke of Inspruck Of the natural Abilities Temper and Inclinations Manners and Customs Virtues and Vices of the Italians THE Italians are by the general confession of all that write of them ingenious apprehensive of any thing and quick-witted Barclay who is not too favourable to them in the Character he gives of them saith they have animum rerum omnium capacem and again that there is nothing so difficult ad quod Italici acuminis praestantia non tollatur They are patient and assiduous in any thing they set about or desire to learn never giving over till they master it and attain the perfection of it They are a still quiet people as being naturally melancholy of a middle temper between the fastuous gravity of the Spaniard and unquiet levity of the French agreeing very well with the English as the Scots are observed to do with the French and Spaniards with the Irish They are very faithful and loving to their friends mindful of a courtesie received and if it lies in their way or power for one good turn will do you two This I had from a very intelligent person who hath lived and conversed long enough among them to know them throughly Barclay himself confesseth that where they do truly love omnia discrimina habent infra tam humani foederis sanctitatem Understand it of the better soâ—t for Shopkeepers and Tradesmen are false and fraudulent enough and Inn-keepers Carriers Watermen and Porters as in other places horribly exacting if you make not an explicit bargain with them beforehand insomuch that in many places the State hath thought it necessary by public Bando and decree to determine how much Inn-keepers shall receive of travellers for their dinner and for their supper and lodging They are not easily provoked but will bear long with one another and more with strangers than their own Countreymen They are also very careful to avoid all occasions of quarrel not to say or do any thing that may offend any person especially not to abuse any one by jesting or drollery which they do not like nor can easily bear No people in Europe are more scrupulous and exact in observing all the punctilio's of civility and good breeding bella creanza they call it only methinks the Epithets they bestow upon mean persons are somewhat extravagant not to say ridiculous as when they stile a mechanic or common tradesman Signor molto magnifico and the like When they are in company together they do not only give every man his turn of speaking but also attend till he hath done accounting it a piece of very ill breeding to interrupt any man in his discourse as hating to be interrupted themselves Contrary to the manner of the French and Dutch who make no scruple of interrupting one another and sometimes talk all together As careful are they not to whisper privately one to another when in company or to talk in an unknown language which all the company understands not They do also shew their civility to strangers in not so much as asking them what Religion they are of avoiding all unnecessary disputes about that subject which are apt to engender quarrels which thing we could not but take notice of because in France you shall searce exchange three words with any man before he ask you that question It is not easie for a stranger to get acquaintance and familiarity with the Italians they not much delighting to converse with strangers as not knowing their humours and customs Yet is their conversation when gotten pleasant and agreeable their discourse profitable and carriage obliging Most of them even of the ordinary sort of people will discourse intelligently about Politic affairs and the government and interest of their own Countrey being much addicted to and delighted in Politic studies and discourses Most of them are very covetous of liberty especially such Cities as have been formerly Common-wealths discourses or treatises of that subject making deep impressions on their minds So that in some places not only books but also discourses about former revolutions are prohibited Barclay also saith that they are gloriosae libertatis cupidi cujus adhuc imaginem vident Hence the Princes of Italy build store of Castles and cittadels in their territories not so much to defend themselves against their enemies as to bridle their Subjects and secure themselves against tumults and insurrections A strange thing it is that of all the people of Italy the Neapolitans who never tasted the sweetness of liberty nor mended their condition by their commotions but always as we say leapt out of the frying-pan into the fire should be the most tumultuous and given to rebel against their Princes Leti tells us of one of those petty subordinate Princes in this Kingdom of Naples called Thomaso Ferrari who governed his subjects not like vassals but with that sweetness and gentleness as if they had been his own children yet some of these fellows taking arms come into their Princes presence and say to him Sir Prince we are come to drive you out of your Palace and burn all your moveables Why answers the Prince can you find fault with my government Are you aggrieved in any thing and it shall be redressed No replied they but because we understand that many of our Countreymen have revolted from their Lords we also to shew that we love revolutions are resolved to rebel against you The Italians are greatly delighted in Pictures statues and music from the highest to the lowest of them and so intemperately fond of these things that they will give any rate for a choice picture or statue Though all of them cannot paint or play on the music yet do they all affect skill and judgment in both And this knowledge is enough to denominate a man a virtuoso Many of them are also curious in collecting ancient coyns and medals They are great admirers of their own language and so wholly given to cultivate polish and enrich that that they do in a great measure neglect the Latine few of them now adays speaking or writing well therein but mingling so many Italian idiotisms with it that you have much ado to understand what they speak or write As for the Greek few or none have any tolerable skill in it the study thereof being generally neglected and laid aside They are very temperate in their diet eating a great deal of sallet and but little flesh Their wine they drink well diluted with water and seldom to any excess We saw only one Italian drunk by the space of a year and half that we sojourned in Italy Whether it be that in hot Countreys men have not so good stomachs as in cold or whether meat as being better concocted nourishes more there or that the Italians are out of principle temper or custom more sober and
a quantity of Grape-stalks first also drenched in wine and let them a lone about 15 days more or less according to the season till they come to make as they call it a rose that is the out-lides become to appearance dry and the middle only wet These grape stalks being thus prepared they put in the bottom of a large earthen pot of the best red wine that begins to be sower but is not yet come to be vinegar to the quantity of about two or three inches depth somewhat above the wine they set sticks cross the pot and having reatly many little plates of Copper they lay upon the dross sticks first a layer of the prepared Grape-stalks then a layer of copper plates and so alternately S S S till the pot be full In the middle of the pot they usually leave a hole all along for the vapour of the wine to ascend neither are the copper plates laid near together for the same reason When they have filled up the pot they cover it and set it in a cellar and after some 5 or 6 days turn the copper plates letting the pot remain in the cellar 3 or 4 days more In 8 or 10 days according to the season the Verdet will be come Then they take out the plates and laying them 6 or 7 on a heap put them in a trough and sprinkle the edges of them with the same wine for 3 or 4 days next they press them with heavy weights for 4 or 5 days and last of all scrape off the Verdet with knives and moulding it with a little wine dry it and sell it The same plates are again put into pots and used as before So then the Verdet is nothing but the rust or sâ—urf of the copper calcined by the vapour of the wine Heer also we saw the manner and process of blanching of Bees wax Round about they set pots with water wherewith they sprinkle the wax often to keep it from melting In Summer time when the Sun lies hot upon it some 6 or 7 times a day otherwhiles but 3 or 4 times In 14 or 15 days the upper end of there cones will grow white and then they turn them to whiten the other end In a months time more or less according to the weather they will become white all over Then they melt the wax again in earthen pans like Metae or scuttles and run it so melted through the neb of a â—m pot into water and as it runs down into the water a man either breaks it with his hand into grains or works it into round figures like spiral wreaths or corollae and these they expose again to the weather in the garden and order as before till they become purely white and then melt into great pieces to fell The mucilage where with they be smear the forms is made of snails taken alive shells and all and pounded in a mortar till they become a perfect pan or viscus The form once besmeared well over with this pap will last dipping many times Wax whitened is almost twice as dear as yellow wax Yellow wax is solutive and used where there is an inflammation and the sore not ripe white wax on the contrary very astringent They say Montpiellier is a place proper for the whitening of waxâ— and that the same workmen coming over into England found the air of a different temper and not convenient for this trade At Montpillier is made the best Confectio Alkermes as reason there is it should the grain which gives it its denomination being in no Countrey of Europe found so plentifully as heer The manner of the preparation of this grain for the making the Confection you may find setdown in the Philosoph Transactions Numb 20. page 362. and I shall therefore heer omit These grains have formerly been thought to have been proper to the dwarf or shrub Ilex called therefore â—lex oâ—ccifera and a by-fruit or excrescency of the twigs of that plant But my learned and ingenious friend Mr. Martin Lister who hath been very happy in making discoveries in natural History hath found the like grains heer in England upon the twigs of cherry and other trees and judged them to be the work of an insect and by her affixed to the twigs for nests to breed and harbour her young and indeed to me they appeared to be so easily receding and falling off from the wood when the young are hatcht and gone As for the grains themselves they are so like the Kermes grains that they are scarce to be distinguished and grow to the twigs just in the same places and manner But for a more full and compleat History of them I refer the Reader to Mr. Listers Letters published in the Philosophical Transactions At Montpellier I observed the manner of making oil-olive First they take olives whether fresh gathered or laid a while on a heap it matters not as they told me and bruise or grind them to a paste â—as we do apples to make cider with a perpendicular mill-stone running round in a trough This paste or the olives thus bruised they put in round thin baskets made of Spartum like frails having a round hole in the top but both top and bottom clapping together so that when pressed they look like a thin round cake Half a score or more of these baskets filled with olive pouce they lay on a heap in the press and letting down the press-beam squeeze them at first without any mixture Then winding up the beam they take out the baskets and into each one put a good quantity of scalding water which they have always ready and shaking the basket mingle it with the pouce and then piling them one upon another as before press them down a second time This second operation they repeat again and then taking out the pouce put in new and proceed as before The oil together with the water runs out into vessels set to receive it The water with the Amurca sinks to the bottom and the oil swims above it which they take off with a copper dish like a fleeting dish as good housewives skiâ— the cream from their milk The water mixed with the red juyce of the olives becomes red and thick not at all mingling with the oil so that it cannot easily the least drop of it be taken up without perceiving it It s said that in Provence they spread their olives on a floor after they are gathered and there let them rest 30 days to dry and for that reason their oil is better than that of Languedoc Others lay them on a heap a while to let them sweat as they call it It is worth the noting that though the olives be very bitter and of a firy ungrateful taste yet the on which is drawn from them is sweet the like is observed in bitter Almonds and it is very likely might be in all other bitter fruits which is a sufficient proof that the taste of such
in Sioily c. they make salt of the sea-Sea-water drawn into shallow pools and evaporated by the Sun-beams in Summer time First they let the water into a large shallow plain like the cooler in a Brew-house and there being well heated they run 〈◊〉 into several shallow beds like the beds of a garden when the Sun hath dried up all the water they let in more and so again 3 or 4 times till the salt remaining at the bottom of these receptacles come to be 3 fingers thick and then they take it up with shovels and heap it on little hills but the whole process of this operation being exactly described in the Philosophical Transact Numb 51. page 1025. I shall forbear to enlarge any further concerning it Now that I have mentioned Martegue I shall add the manner of making Botargo out of Mr. F. Willughbye's notes At Martegue they take abundance of Mullets Mugiles not mulli as one would be apt to think by the English name in their Burdigos which are places in the shallows enclosed with hedges of reeds The male Mullets are called Allettants because they shed the milt Lac piscium The females Botar of the rows or spawn of which Botargo is made They first take out the spawn entire and cover it round with salt for 4 or 5 hours then they press it a little between two boards or stones then they wash it and at last dry it in the Sun for 13 or 14 days taking it in at nights Decemb. 7. 1665. from Montpellier we made an excursive voyage into Provence The principal Cities and Towns that we saw were 1. Lunel about 4 leagues distant from Montpellier 2. Arles a considerable City once the head of a Kingdom called anciently Arelate standing upon the river Rhosne which a good way above this City divides it self into two branches and makes an Isalnd called the Camarg All this Island is full of Vermicularis frutex growing by the ditch sides all along Beyond this City in the way to Marseilles we passed over a large plain or level all over covered with stones called now the Craux or les Champs pierreux anciently Campi lapidei to 3. S. Chamas a large burgh standing upon the ridge and on each side a narrow hill which is perforated like Pausilypus Upon the rocks near this town I found Seseli Aethiopicum frutex growing in great plenty as also Alypum montis Ceti Coris Monspessulana Ruta sylvestris minor Colutea caule Genistae fungoso J. B. We observed also this day all along as we rode upon the hills and by the way sides our common Furze or Genista spinosa 4. Marseilles an ancient City not great but well built with tall stone-houses for the most part and very populous We were told that the number of souls was about 120000. The streets are narrow as in most of the ancient Towns in this Countrey to keep off the scorching beams of the Sun in Summer time The haven is the most secure and commodious that I have seen the entrance into it so strait and narrow that a man may easily cast a stone cross it but the haven within large enough to contain 500 vessels or more of an oval figure On one side of this haven the Town is built which compasses it more than half round having before it a handsome kay well paved which serves the Citizens for a walk or Promenade This haven is not capable of ships of above 600 tun On the rocks near this Town I found growing plentifully the same Colutea I observed at S. Chamas Valeriana rubra Dod. Carduus galactites J. B. By the Sea side Tragacantha Massiliensium plentifully After luteus supinus J. B. Tithymalus myrsinites angustifolius Coronopus Massiliensis Lob. 5. Bausset 6. Olliole two little Towns 7. Toulon no great Town but well fortified and the best haven the King of France hath on the Mediterranean Sea having large bay capable of the greatest vessels where there is good riding for ships At Toulon they make holes in their stone-walls at three or four foot distance near the ground and there plant capers the fruit whereof they prepare and pickle after this fashion They gather the buds or blossoms of the flowers before they be explicated and spreading them thin lay them in the shade to wither for three or four hours to prevent the opening of the flower Then they put them in a vessel and pour vinegar upon them covering the vessel with a board and so let them stand for nine days at the end whereof they take them out and press them gently and put them in fresh vinegar letting them stand as long as before this done the third time they put them up in barrels with vinegar Some mingle salt with their vinegar which is the best way and preserves the Cipers for three years both for colour and taste as good as at the first I observed near Bausset great plenty of Myrtle in the hedges near Olliole Acanthus sativus Althaeaiâ—rutestens folio rotundiore incano C. B. Fumaria minor sive tenuifolia surrecta J. B. Acacia trifolia Tencrium vulgare Arisarum latifolium Chrysocome Ger. 8. S. Maximine near which is the famous Groâ— of Mary Magdalen called S. Baulme 9. Aix anciently Aquae Sextiae from the hot baths that are there This is a very elegant and pleasant City well built with fair stone houses having broad streets and handsome piazzas 10. Selogne Salonia In the Cordeliers Church lies buried Nostradamus the famous French Prophet whose verses the Franch-men esteem as oracles In the Church wall is placed a stone with this inscription to his memory D. M. Clariss ossa M. Nostradami unius omnium mortalium judicio digni cujus penè divino calamo totius orbis ex astrorum influxu futuri eventus conscriberentur Vixit an 62. m. 6. d. 10. Obiit Salo MDLXVI Quietem posteri nè invidete Anna Pontia Gemella Salonia conjugi optimo V. F. 11. Aiguemortes a small Town but of great strength near the Sea in a fenny place some 6 leagues distant from Montpellier From Montpellier we returned to Lions from Lions we travelled with the Messenger to Paris from Paris again to Calais and so cross the Strait to Dover whence we at first set out and began our Journey A Relation of a Voyage made through a great part of Spain by Francis Willughby Esq containing the chief Observables he met with there collected out of his Notes AVgust 31. 1664. we left Bagnols in the County of Roussillon being the last or furthest Town belonging to the French and at about ¾ of a leagues distance came to a great stone erected heer for a boundary between France and Spain and passing very bad way among desolate mountains after many hours riding we came to Lansa the first Town of the King of Spains Countrey All along these mountains grew Rosemary common Furze or Gorsse and Agnus castus of two sorts the one
another round about the Court. Adjoyning to this is the antient Palace of the Kings of Granada within there is all the same kind of Moresco-work wrought in mortar and stone with gold and painting The Cloysters are supported by long slender pillars In this Palace is an octagonal Chamber vaulted at the top with 8 doors one in every side If one stand in one angle and whisper to another that stands in the angle diametrically opposite the voice is conveyed as in the the whispering place at Glocester but if you stand in an angle that is not diametrically opposite you hear nothing The reason of the conveying the voice is the vault above and the corners being streightned into a very sharp angle or channel In Granada are two great Market-places one called Plassa nova the other de villa Rambla In the great Church are two Monuments one for Ferdinand and Isabella with this inscription Mahometicae sectae prostratores Haereticae pervicaciae extinctores Fernandus Aragonum Helisabetha Castellae vir axor unanimes Catholici appellati marmoreo clauduntur hoc tumulo The other is of Philippus I and Joanna daughter and heir of Ferdinand and Isabella without an inscription In the river Daro that runs by Granada they find gold among the sand In the mountains of Sierra neveda near Granada are said to be divers sorts of minerals which are not at all looked after Near Motril at the Capâ— di Gatto there is a Mine of Granates covered with the sea They are pointed as Amethysts and Crystal but the best come from Africa We saw that day Montesacro a place within half a league of the Town of great devotion In Castile Granada c. the greater Cities have a Corregidore and the lesser an Alcayde who administer justice and are appointed and sent by the King to govern the Towns All over the Kingdom of Castile they eat flesh upon Saturdays and observe only Fridays We left Granada and passing by Santa Fede travelled to Lotta 8 leagues At Lotta we were troubled with soldiers that came from the frontiers of Portugal to take up their winter Quarters There had been of this party 2600 but this summer at Alcantara they were reduced to 900 the rest being slain or dead of diseases We passed this day by Archidona Lalameda Larouda and lay at Pedrera 10 leagues We passed by Ossuna La Pobla and lay at Elazabal 10 leagues This Countrey was the best we saw since we came into Spain the land being for the most part well planted and cultivated We passed by Gandula and arrived at Sevil 7 leagues Between Gandula and Sevil there are abundance of Olive-trees Heer we first saw the greater sort of Olives which are usually eaten in England for a sallet called the great Spanish Olive all that we had seen in Italy or in Spain before being of the lesser sort Here is a brave Aqueduct of brick which conveys water from Carmona six leagues distant under the Arches there are Stalactites as at the Aqueduct of Pisa The Gallions bring nothing home from the West-Indies but Plate the Merchants ships are loaden with leather Cacao Sugar Lana di Vigonna c. Of the Cacao Nut they make Chocolate thus First they tost the berries to get off the husk then pound the kernels to powder and to every Miliao i. e. 3 pound and a half of powder they add and mingle two pound of Sugar 12 Vanillas a little Pimentone or Guiny Pepper which is used by the Spaniards only and a little Acchiote to give a colour but these two last may be omitted They melt the Sugar and then mingle all well together and work it up either in rolls or loaves Sevil hath of late decayed very much and doth continually decay more and more the trading being most removed to Cales the reason whereof is because they pay about 27 per cent for all merchandises at Sevil and but 4 or 5 per cent at Cales The chief places to be seen in Sevil are 1. The great Church 2. The Kings or Assistants Palace 3. The Archbishops Palace 4. The Steeple of the great Church like Saint Marks Tower at Venice which you ascend almost to the top without stairs by gently inclining plains 5. The Franciscan Covent 6. The Longha where the Merchants meet about the affairs of the flote 7. The Convent of Nostredame del peuple 8. The Bridge of boats over the Guadalquivir i. e. the river Baetis The Town on the other side this river is called Triana 9. The Inquisition or Castle of Triana just over the Bridge 10. An old Tower called Torre d'oro where St. Ferdinand that recovered Sevil kept money made of leather 11. The Aqueduct 12. The old Palace and Garden of the Moors Near the Bridge along the river side they come every night with their Coaches to take the fresco In the great Church between two Altars are three Monuments for St. Ferdinand the wise his wife Beatrice and his son Alphonsus The same Epitaph in Hebrew Arabic Greek and Latin Hîc jacet illustrissimus Rex Fernandus Castelliae Toleti Legionis Galliciae Sibillae Cordubae Murciae Jaheni qui totam Hispaniam conquisivit fidelissimus veracissimus constantissimus justissimus strenuissimus detentissimus liberalissimus patientissimus piissimus humillimus in timore servitio Dei efficacissimus qui contrivit exterminavit penitus hostium suorum proterviam qui sublimavit exaltavit omnes amicos suos qui civitatem Hispalem quae caput est metropolis totius Hispaniae de manibus cripuit paganorum cultui restituit Christiano ubi solvens naturae debitum ad Dominum transmigravit ultima die Maii Anno ab incarnatione Domini 1252. In the same Church is Fernandus Columbus Christopher Columbus his Son buried with this Epitaph A qui jace el mucho magnifico signor Don Hernando Colon el quel expleo y gasto toda su vida y facenda en aumento di los Lettras y en juntar y perpetuar en esta cividad todos los libros di todas las sciencias qui in su tempo hallo y en ridurlos à quatro libros segun estan à qui sâ—n ilados Fallescio en esta cividad à 12 di Julio 1532. An. de su edad 50 an 10 meses 14 dies Fue Hyio del valoroso memorabile Signor Don Christophoro Colon primicro Admirante qui descubio las Indias y nuevo mondo en vida di los Catholicos Reys Don Fernando y Donna Isabella di gloriosa memoria à onze de Ottobre dy mill quatrocentos y noventa y dos annos y partio del puerto de Palos à descubrirlas con tres Carabelas y noventa personas à tres de Agosto…… iuntes…… y bolbio à Castilla con la vittoria à quattro di Marzo del anno siguente y torno despues otras dos vezes a poblar lequale scubriâ— y al sin fallescio à Valladolid Ã
vente de Maio de mill y quincentos y seys annos Rogad al Sennor por ellos Chocolate is sold at Sevil for something more than a piece of eight the pound Vanillas which they mingle with the Cacao to make Chocolate for a Real di Plato Acchiote which they mingle with the other ingredients to give a colour is made of a kind of red earth brought from New Spain wrought up into cakes it is sold for a Real di plato the ounce All the oil and wine they have in the West-Indies goes from Spain they not being permitted to plant Vines or Olive-trees that they may always have a dependence upon Spain At and near Sevil we paid two Reals de quarto a bed bread wine flesh and all other Commodities excessive dear excepting only Olives and Pomegranates which were better heer than in any other part of Spain There had lately been a great plague in Sevil which had very much depopulated and impoverished indeed almost rained the City I set out from Sevil towards Madrid the first day we travelled to Carmona where the Aqueduct forementioned begins 6 leagues in all which way we saw no houses but a great many Aloe-trees We passed Les fontes and lay at Euia a great Town of above 20000 inhabitants Between Carmona and Euia is a very good Countrey abundance of corn and olive trees Ossiuna is within 4 leagues of Euia where the Duke of Ossuna hoth a palace We travelled this day 9 leagues We passed over the river Xenil that runs into Guadalquivir baited at Arrasith and lodged at Cordova 8 leagues About a league from Cordova we passed another little river that runs into Guadalquivir Before we entred Cordova we rode over a great stone-bridge that heer crosses the Guadalquivir In the middle of the bridge stands a statue erected to the Angel Raphael with this inscription Beatissimo Raphaeli Angelorum proceri custodi suo vigilantissimo qui ante annos 300 sub Paschali antistite populum peste depopulante se medicum tantae cladis futurum praedixit qui subinde Anno 1578 venerabili Presbytero Andreae de Cas Roelas S. S. M. M. exuvias evulgavit tandem patefecit Cordubensium tutelam sibi à Deo demum datam Quare ut justa gratitudo diu staret S. P. Q. Cordubensis hanc lapideam statuam cautus pius erexit multâ procuratione Domini Josephi de Valdeanas Herera Domini Gundesalvi de Cea Rios Senatorum Pontifice Innocente X Hispan rege Philippo IV Episcopo Domino Fratre Petro de Tapia Praetore Domino Alphonso de flores monte negro Anno 1651. The most considerable places in Cordova are 1. The Bishops Palace 2. The Cavallerisca where the King keeps a great many horses 3. The ruines of Almansor's Palace the last King of the Moors 4. Plassa di Corridera 5. The Church of the Augustine Freres 6. The great Church which was anciently a Mosque It is large but very low supported by a great many rows of pillars in a quadrate order 16 rows one way and 30 another Upon many of the pillars are Moors heads carved in the stone and one or two with turbants on In the middle of this Church is the great Chappel where are several Bishops interred In one of the Chappels that is now dedicated to S. Peter in the Moors time was kept a thigh of Mahomet Round about the cornish of this Chappel and that part of the Church next it is an Arabic inscription The People complain grievously that Cordova is quite ruined and undone by Gabels and taxes We left Cordova and after a league or two riding entred the Sierra Morena a miserable desolate mountainous Countrey and lodged at a little village called Adamus 6 leagues We travelled all day through the Sierra Morena and lay at a village called La conquista 9 leagues In this days journey we saw abundance of galls upon the Ilices which were of like bigness figure colour consistency and other accidents with those that grow upon Oaks This day we first met with red wine again which they call Vino tinto We got safe out of Sierra Morena and came to Almedovar del campo a great Lougar 9 leagues About the middle of Sierra Morena are the bounds of Castilia nova and Andaluzia We passed by Caraquol Cividad real and lay at Malagon 10 leagues Between Malagon and Cividad real we passed over the river Anas now called Guadiana which was there but a little brook In this days journey we met with a great many great flocks of sheep and goats going towards the Sierra Morena out of Castile it being the custom all Summer to feed their sheep upon the mountains of Castile and in Winter in the Sierra Morena We passed by the ruines of an Aqueduct about 4 leagues from Malagon then Yvenas a good big lougar and lay at Orgas 10 leagues We passed through Toledo and lay at Esquinas 11 leagues As soon as ever we were passed the Sierra Morena we felt a great change of weather the warm air that comes from Afric and the Mediterranean Sea being stopped by the interposition of the mountains This day there was heer a hard frost and pretty thick ice The most considerable things in Toledo are 1. The bridge over Tagus consisting of but two arches one great one and one little one 2. The shambles where notwithstanding the coldness of the day I saw abundance of flies which confutes the story that there is but one great fly there all the year 3. The great Church where there are many monuments of Bishops but without inscriptions in the Capella maggior lie interred two Kings and in the Capella de los Res four Kings 4. The Kings palace 5. The ruines of a famous Engine to raise up water to the Kings Palace There is so little of it remaining that it is impossible thence to find out all the contrivance and intrigue of it Between Toledo and Madrid the Countrey is very populous and the soil very good All along the road from Sevil to Madrid the common fare is Rabbets red-leg'd Partridges and Eggs which are sufficiently dear We arrived at Madrid 6 leagues near the Town we passed over the river Xarante Madrid is very populous well built with good brick houses many having glass windows which is worth the noting because you shall scarce see any in all Spain besides The streets are very foul and nasty There is one very fair piazza or market place encompassed round with tall an uniform houses having 5 rows of Balconies one above another and underneath porticos or cloysters quite round The chief things to be seen in Madrid are 1. The Prison 2. The Piazza just now mentioned 3. The Kings Chappel 4. Palaces of several Noblemen as that of the Duke of Alva that of the Duke of Medina de los Torres c. 5. The Kings palace where there is the Kings Cavallerisca and
the Queens Cavallerisca 6. A great piazza before the palace where are abundance of coaches always attending 7. The English College of Theatines 8. Il retiro Out of the Town the Escurial and El Pardo I set out from Madrid for Port S. Sebastian We passed within sight of the Escurial and El Pardo and lay that night at S. Augustin 6 leagues We passed Butrago and lay at Samoserra all the way a barren miserable mountainous Country 11 leagues We passed Frecedille and lay at Aranda having crossed the river Durius or Duero 11 leagues We passed Bahalon and Lerma where is a Convent of Dominican Freres and a palace of the Duke or Lerma's and came that night to Burgos 12 leagues The most considerable things in Burgos are 1. The bridge over the river Relarzon 2. The gate at the end of the bridge where are the statues of Charles V of Janus Calvus of Diego Porcellero of Fernandez Gonsales of Nunio Pasures of Don Carlotte all famous men of Burgos 3. The market-place 4. The great Church in which are a great many monuments of Bishops and Canons two great monuments of Pedro Fernando di Velasco Constable of Castile and his Wife Mencia di Mendoza Countess of Haro This night we lodged at Quintora-vides 5 leagues We passed by Pancorva a place very famous for good water Miranda a great Town where there is a good bridge over the river Iberus and after that we passed over two other rivers Baias and Sadurra and lay at Erminian 11 leagues At Miranda there is a great market for wheat We travelled to Vittoria Over one of the gates is the statue of King Bamba and inscribed in gold letters Haec est victoria quae vincit 4 leagues Vittoria is the chief City of a little Countrey called Alaba We passed this day by Salines the first Town of Guipuscoa and lay at Aescurias 9 leagues In Guipuscoa they pay no taxes or other duties to the King without the consent of the Countrey The whole Province is more commonly called Provincia than Guipuscoa it is cantoned out into a great many Corporations and Villages every one of which send 1 2 or 3 Representatives to the general meeting when there is any public business All offices are annual and chosen diversly according to the differing customs of the Towns The chief Officer in each town to determine all civil and criminal causes is the Alcalda but from him they may appeal to the Governour of the Province sent by the King every third year and from the Governour to the Kings Council at Valladolid Next to the Alcalda are 2 Regidores to look after the prices of all commodities a Bolser for the treasury a Medino for the prison Argozils or Serjeants c. They boast that they are the walls of Spain and therefore have many priviledges Guipuscoa is under the Bishop of Pampelona In Guipuscoa and Biscay they have a peculiar language of their own and therefore send their children to School to learn Spanish which they call Romance as we do ours to learn Latin The Searchers having hindred us we were forced to travel great way in the night We were lighted by Tias or Teas which burnt as well and gave as good a light as torches When they went out they tossed them up and down in their hands which kindled them again These Teas so called doubtless from the Latin word taeda are very commonly used in this Countrey and are nothing else but bastons of wood hacked and cleft but so as the pieces hang together and afterwards soundly dried in an Oven or Chimney Along the middle they use to cleave them almost quite asunder They are made of several sorts of wood of Robla i. e. Oak Aiga i. e. but the best of Avellana i. e. Hazel I wonder much at this unless they have some way of preparing the wood by steeping it in oil or other inflammable matter The taedae of the Ancients were made only of the trunks of old and sappy pines We passed by Mondragone where there is a fabrica of Arms for the King Oniate Legaspa Villa real and lay at Villa franca 7 leagues We left S. Adrian which is the ordinary road a little on our left hand This Countrey is very populous and well wooded all the hills being covered with oaks They use no ploughs but turn over the ground with tridents of iron 4 or 5 of them working together and thrusting in their tridents all together turn up a yard or two of earth at a time which they afterwards dress and level like beds in a garden The people are something better conditioned than the Spaniards richer and far more populous 1. Because there is a better government and greater liberty 2. There is abundance of wood and iron 3. More rain than in the other parts of Spain We passed Tolosa and arrived this night at S. Sebastian having travelled 8 leagues The most observable things in S. Sebastian are 1. The walls and guns 2. A great Convent of Dominican Freres in which there is a famous pair of stone-stairs each step being of one entire stone and supported only on one side 3. The haven The Government of S. Sebastian consists of a great Council of all that have one or more houses and are married but none can bear office unless he have two houses of these there is not above 150 or 200 though the town be very populous conteining about 24000 souls Once in a year all the names of this 150 or 200 are put into an urn and a child takes out 8 to be Electors Every one of this 8 chuses his man the old Magistrates that are just then going out divide these 8 that the Electors have chosen into 4 pairs fitting them as well as they can v. g. an old man and a young together c. These 4 pairs are put into an urn The first pair that are drawn out are the two Alcaldas for that year the second pair the two Deputy Alcaldas the third pair the two Regidores the fourth pair the two Deputy Regidores In much the same manner they chuse two Jurats one Syndic or Atturney general one Treasurer c. all these Officers make a lesser Senate but in businesses of importance the whose number meets There is no distinction of Nobiles and Plebeii but all that are descended from Guipuscoans that are married and have one house are in capacity to be Electors all that have two houses to be Magistrates The Jurats places are most desired there being a great many Ecclesiastical preferments belonging to the Town the disposition whereof when they come to be vacant is in them who usually bestow them upon their Relations and Friends Every Winter there are several whales caught upon this coast they coming hither in Winter and frequenting heer as they do upon the coast of Groenland in Summer They catch them by striking them with a harping iron after the same manner as