name from it is called in the ancient Scottish language Straitherne Straith of olde in that tongue was called a countrey lying along a water side Betwixt the hilles of this countrey and Forth lieth Teth taking the name from the water of Teth running through the middest thereof The hilles called Ochels march with Teth which for the most part as also the ground lying at the foot of them are accounted to be of the Stewardrie of Straitherne The rest of that countrey to Forth through ambition is diuided in sundry Iurisdictions as in Clackmannan-shire Culros-shire and Kinros-shire from which all the countrey that lies betwixt Forth and Tay Eastward like a wedge in a narrow point of the Sea is called by one name Fyfe abundant within the selfe in all things necessarie to the vse of man It is broadest where Lochleuin diuideth it from thence it becommeth narrow vntill it come to the towne of Carraill There is but one water to make account of in all Fyfe named Leuin There are manie prety townes vpon the coast in three sides of Fyfe The towne of Saint Andrewes for the study of good learning The towne of Cowper standeth almost in the middest of Fyfe which is the Sherifes seat for administration of iustice Vpon the march betwixt it and Stratherne standeth Abirnethy of olde the chiefe Citie of the Pights Neere it Erne runneth into Tay. The water of Tay commeth forth of Loch-tay in Broadalbin The Loch is foure twenty miles of length Tay is the greatest riuer in Scotland which turning course at the hilles of Grangebean ioynes with Atholl a fertile countrey situate in the very wildernesse of the same mountaines at the foot whereof there is a part of Atholl lying plaine named the Blair which word signifies a ground proper for wood Vnder Atholl vpon the South side of Tay stands the Towne Caledon which onely retaines the ancient name commonly called Dunkeld that is a knoll full of Nut-trees The Nut-trees growing in that vnmanured ground and couering the earth with the shaddow of the boughs thereof haue giuen the name both to the towne and people Caledones indeed or Caledonij were sometime one of the most renowmed people of Brittaine and made the one halfe of the kingdome of Pights whom Ammianus Marcellinus diuideth into Caledones and Vecturiones of whome at this day scarcely doth remaine any memoriall of Name Twelue miles vnder Dunkeld in the same right side of the riuer of Tay stands Saint Iohnestone vpon the North side of the water Eastward from Atholl lies Gowrie a firtill ground for corne and vnder it againe betwixt Tay and Esk lies Angusse or as the ancient Scots call it Eencia Some men also are of opinion that it was named Horrestia or according to the English Phrase Forrestia In Angusse are the Townes of Cowper and Deidoun the gift of God as Boetius to gratifie his countrey ambiciously names it but I trust the ancient name of the towne was Taidunum from the word Dun called the Taw or Knoll that stands vpon Tai at the foot whereof this towne is builded Fourteene miles North from Tai right by the Sea side standes Abirbrothock ' otherwise named Abrinca from thence yee may perfitly see the Redde head a farre off South-east cuts Angusse euen in the middest and North-east diuides it from the Maernis The Maernis for the most part is a plaine ground till it passe Fordoun and Dunnotter the Earle Marshels Castle and come to the hilles of Grangebean which begin there to decrease and end in the Sea North from the Maernis is the mouth of the water of Deuá or Deé commonly named and about a mile from Deé Northward the mouth of the water of Done At the mouth of Deè standes Abirdene renowmed for the salmond fishings thereof and at the mouth of Doné the Bishops seat and common schooles flourishing in all kinde of science of liberall artes I finde in some olde monuments that the Towne neerest to the South was called Abirdee but now both the one Towne and the other is called Abirdene deuised onely to the words old and new as new Abirdene and old Abirdene At this narrow point lying betwixt these waters the countrey of Mar beginnes growing alwaies wider and wider till it be 60 miles in length come to Badzenoch The countrey of Badzenoch hath as it were a backe running out through the midst of it which spouts forth waters into both the seas Habre marcheth with Badzenoch tending by little and little towards the Deucalidon sea a Countrey as aboundant of commodities both by sea and land as any Countrey within Scotland is First it is good for Corne and store the shaddowes of the Woods the riuers and the springs make it very pleasant and it hath also great plenty of fishes as any Countrey within Scotland for besides the aboundance of fresh water fishes produced by a great number of waters the sea runnes within the countrey in a long Channell and being narrow at the mouth the water kept in betwixt two high bankes and spreading wide inward makes the forme of a stanke or rather of a Loch from which it hath gotten the name Abre by the Countrey men that is in their language A place where ships may lie as sure as in a Hauen The same name is giuen to all the Countrey that lies round about such as speake the English tongue name both the Creeke of the sea and the countrey Lochabre but altogether without reason and indecently These three Countries Habre Badzenoch and Marre comprehend the breadth of Scotland betwixt the two seas Next vnto Marre Northward lies Buquhan deuided from Marre by the water of Dune This Countrey runnes farthest in the Germane Sea of all the Countries of Scotland fertill in store and increase of the ground and in it selfe sufficient to satisfy for all other commodities necessary for the Countrey There is abundance of Salmond fish taken in all the waters thereof except Rattry wherein to this houre was neuer seene any Salmond Vpon the coast of Buquhan there is a caue the nature whereof is not to be forgotten From the crowne of the Caue there drops downe water which water vpon the instant is turned into little round stones If the Caue were not from time to time cleansed by mans labour it would in short space be filled to the head The stone that is ingendered of this water is of nature halfe stone halfe Ice fresh and neuer growing solide as the Marble doth When I was in Tollosse about the yeere of God 1544. I vnderstood by credible men that there was a Caue into the Pireneé mounts neere vnto the place of their habitation like vnto this Caue in all things Boyne and Enzeé lie from Buquhan Northward to Spey which deuides them from Murray Spey springs forth of the North-side of the mountaines of Badzenoch whereof we haue made mention and not farre from
the midst bearing this title The tombs of the Kings of Scotland It is said there were 48. Kings of Scotland buried there The tombe vpon the right side hath this inscription The Tombes of the Kings of Ireland It is recorded that there were foure Kings of Ireland buried there It that is vpon the left side hath this inscription The Tombes of the Kings of Norway The report is that there were eight Kings of that Nation buried there The notable houses of the Iles haue their Tombes in the rest of the Church-yard euery one seuerally by themselues There are about this Iland and neere vnto it sixe little Ilands not vnfruitfull giuen by the auncient Kings of Scotland and gouernours of the Iles to the Abbey of Sanct-Colme Soa is a very profitable ground for sheepe albeit the chiefe commoditie of it consists in sea-fowles that build therein specially of their egges Next vnto it is the I le of Wemen Then Rudana Neere vnto it Bernira and from that Skennia halfe a mile distant from the Mule It hath a Priest of the owne but the most part of the parishioners dwell in Mule The sea sides of it abound in Connies Fiue miles hence lieth Frosa all these Iles are subiect to the Monkes of Saint Colmes Abbey Two miles from Frosa lieth Vilua fiue miles of length fruitfull for the quantitie of Corne and store It hath a commodious Hauen for gallies or boates Vpon the South side of it lieth Toluansa the ground whereof is not vnfruitfull There is a wood of Nut-trees in it About three hundred paces from this Iland lieth Gomatra two miles long and one mile broad extended from the North to the South From Gomatra foure miles Southward lies 2. Staffae the one and the other full of Hauening places Foure miles South-east from Staffa lie two Ilands named Kerimburgae the more and the lesse enuironed with such shore high and furious tide that by their owne naturall defence supported somewhat by the industrie of man they are altogether inuincible One mile from them lies an Iland whereof the whole earth almost is blacke growne together of rotten wood and mosse The people make peates of it for their fire where-from it is called Monadrum for that kinde of earth which in the English language is called Mosse in the Irish is called Monadrum Next vnto this I le lieth Longa 2. miles of length and Bacha halfe as much From Bacha 6. miles lies Tiria eight miles in length and three in breadth Most fertill of all the Ilandes in all things necessarie for the sustentation of man It aboundeth in store of Cornes fishings and Sea-fowles In this Iland there is a fresh-water Loch and therein an olde Castle It hath also an hauen not incommodious for boates From this Iland two miles lies Sunna and from Sunna as farre lieth Colla twelue miles of length and two miles of bredth a fertill Iland Not farre from it is Calfa almost all full of wood And then two Ilands named meekle Viridis and little Viridis Item other two of the same names Ouer against the Mules head and not farre from it lie two Ilandes named Glassae and then Ardan-eidir that is the high Iland of the rider Then Luparia or the Wolfe Iland and after it a great I le lying North from the Iland Colla extended East and West Then Ruma sixteene miles in length and sixe in bredth rising high in strait hilles full of woods and scrogges and for that cause it is inhabited in very fewe places The Sea-fowles laie their egges heere and there in the ground thereof In the middest of the spring time when the egges are laide any man that pleaseth may take of them In the high rockes thereof the Sea-guse whereof we spake before are taken in aboundance From this Iland foure miles North-east-ward lies the Horse Iland and from it halfe a mile the Swine Iland for the quantitie fruitefull ynough in all things necessarie The Falcon buildeth in it It hath also an hauen Not farre from it lies Canna and Egga little Ilands fertill ynough In Egga are Solan-geese Soabrittella more profitable for hunting then for any other commoditie necessarie for man From this Iland the I le of Skye greatest of all the Ilands that are about Scotland lies North and South 40. miles in length and eight miles broad in some places and in other places 12. miles rising in hilles in sundrie places full of woods and pastorage The ground thereof fertill in corne and store and besides all other kindes of beastiall fruitfull of Mares for breeding of horse It hath fiue great riuers rich of Salmond and many little waters not altogether bare thereof The sea running into the land on all sides make many salt-salt-waters three principall and 13. others all rich in herring There is in it a fresh-water Loch and fiue Castles The I le in the old Scottish tongue is called Scianacha that is winged because the heads betwixt the which the Sea runneth into the land spreadeth out like winges but by common custome of speech it is called Skie that is a wing About the Skie lie little Ilands scattered heere and there Oronsa fertill in corne and store Cunicularia full of bushes and Connies Paba infamous for throate-cutting For that in the woods thereof robbers lie in ambushments to trap them that passe that way .8 miles South-west from it lies Scalpa which besides sundry other commodities hath woods full of troopes of Deere Betwixt the mouth of Zochcarron and Raorsa lies Crulinga seuen miles of length and two of breadth there is a sure hauen in it for ships There are in it also woods of Bucke and Deere in them Halfe a mile from Crulinga is Rona full of wood and Hadder There is an hauen in the innermost Loch thereof perillous for robbery to them that passe that way because it is a meete place to hide ambushments in In the mouth of the same Loch is an Iland of the same name called for shortnesse Ger-loch From Rona sixe miles Northward lies Flada two miles from Flada Euilmena Vpon the south side of Skie lies Oronsa and a mile from it Knia Pabra and great Bina and then fiue little vnworthy Ilands Next vnto them is Isa fertill in cornes Beside it is Ouia then Askerma and Lindella .8 miles from Skie southward lies Linga and Gigarmena Benera Megala Paua Flada Scarpa Veruecum Sandara Vatersa Which besides many other commodities hath a hauen commodious for a number of great ships whereinto fishermen of all countries about conuene certaine times of the yeere ordinarily These last nine Ilands are subiect to the Bishop of the Iles. 2. miles from Vatersa is Barra running from the North-west to the south-east 7. miles in length fruitfull of cornes and profitable for fish There runneth into it a Loch with a narrow throat growing round and wide within In it there is an inch and in the inch a strong Castle Vpon the North-side of Barra there riseth
Iohn Armstrang of Thornequhat Wil ArmestraÌ„g of Ternsnihill Littils Iohn Littill of Cassoke Thome Littill of Finglen Ingrahames Archy Littill ANANDAIL Irwingis Edward of Bonschaw Lang Richies Edward Iohn the young Duke Chrystie the Cothquhat Willie of Graitnayhill Bellis Will Bell of Alby Iohn Bell of the Tourne Mathie Bell called the King Andro Bell called Lokkis Androw Will Bell Reidcloke Carlilles Adame Carlile of Bridekirk Alexander Carlile of Egleforhame Grahames George Grahame of Reupatrik Arthour Grahame of Blawoldwood Richie Grahame called The Plump Thomsons Young Archie Thomson Sym Thomson in Polloden Romes Roger Rome in Tordoweth Mekle Sandie Rome there Gassis Dauid Gasse in Barch Iohn Gasse Michaels sonne in Rig. THE SHRIEFDOMES AND Shriefs of Scotland Orknay The Shriefe thereof heritable Earle of Caythnes Innernes The Earle of Huntlie Cromartie Vrquhart of Cromartie Narne Iohn Campbell of Lorne Elgene and Forress Dumbar of Cumnok Abirdene The Earle of Huntlie Kincardin The Earle of Marshall Forfar The Lord Gray Perth alias Saint Iohnstone The Earle of Gowry Fyfe The Earle of Rothosse Kynross The Earle of Morton of Lochleuin and Dalkeyth Clackmannan The knight of the Karss Sterling The prouost of the towne for the time Dumbarten Earle of Lennox Sterling-shire extra Burgum The Earle of Mar. Tarbart The Earle of Mar. Laynrik The Earle of Arran Lord Hammilton Renfrew The Lord Sampill Aere Campbell Knight of Lowdon Wigton Patrik Agnew of that ilk Drumfreis Lord Sanquhat Pebles Lord Zester Selkirk-Murray of Fallahill Roxburgh Dowglasse of Cauers called sherife of Tiuidaill Barwik Lord Home Edinburgh The prouost of the Towne for the time Lothien The Earle Bothwell The Cunstabularie of Hadington The Earle Bothwell Lithgow Hammilton of Kenneill THE STEWARTRIES OF SCOTLAND Stratherne Monteith The Lord Drâ—mmond Kircudbricht Annandaill The Lord Maxwell THE BAILLERIES OF SCOTLAND Kyle The Knight of Cragy wallace Carik The Earle of Cassils Cunninghame The Earle of Eglinton THE ORDER OF THE CALLING of the Table of the Session Munday Redemptions of lands Reductions of all kinds Transferrings Losse of Superiorities For making sealing and subscribing of Reuersions Tewsday Recent spoiles without the time of vacants Acts of Aiurnall Wednesday The common Table of the foure quarters of the Realme by order euery one after another as is diuided in the acts of the Institution in the print books of Parliament Thursday The same Table Friday The Kings actions strangers the poore Saturday The Lords of Session and members thereof The Prelates payers of contribution and the common Table foresaid And vpon the Wednesday and Thursday to cal common priuileged matters such as Hornings Free-persons Euidents Fortalices Warnings Letters conforme to rolements Decreits Arbitrailes Taks Pensions Ordinarie letters Gifts Registring of contracts Actions to become ciuill or prophane Double poindings Billes Supplications And their last actions to be called of new by ordinance of the Lords of Session for expedition of causes The Shires of Scotland The Shires of the first quarter as followeth that is to say Forfair Kineardin Banff Elgin Forres Narne Innernes and Cromartie The Shires of the second quarter Edinburgh Lynlythgow Selkirk Roxburgh Peblis Berwick and Hadington The third quarter Striuiling and Renfrew Lanerk Wigton Dumfreis Kilcudbright and Annandaill The fourth quarter Perth Clackmannan Argyle and Bute The Senators begin their sitting and rising as followes They begin to sit downe in Edinburgh on the morne after Trinitie Sunday while the first day of August and after to be vacant while the first day of Nouember next ensuing and then to begin and sit while the xix day of March next then to be vacant while the morning after Trinitie Sunday as aforesaid THE NAMES OF THE FREE BVRROWES subiect to pay extent and subsidie within Scotland SOVTH Edinburgh Sterling Lithgow Rothsaye Dumbarten Renfrew Ruglen Aere Irwing Glasgow Kircudbricht Wigtoun Whithorne Laynerik Iedburgh Sel-kirk Peblis NORTH Abirdene Dundie Saint Iohnston aliâs Perth Banffe Dumfermeling Carraill Forfar Brechin Mont-rosse Elgene Innernes Arbrothe Saint Andrewes Cowpar Cullane Fores. The Kings Palaces and Castels Haddington North-Barwick Dumbar Drumfreis Narne Thaine Dysert Kirkady Palaces appertaining to the King THe Palace of Halyrud-house beside Edinburgh in Lothien 2 The Palace of Dalkeyth reserued for the vse of the Prince with the Orchard Gardens Banks and wood adiacent thereunto within foure miles of Edinburgh 3 The Palace of Lithgow within the towne of Lithgow in Lithgow-shire 4 The Palace of Falkland and the towne of Falkland adiacent thereunto with the Parke In Fyfe Castels appertaining to the King Desert The Castell of Roxburgh now demoleist by the Lawe and by the commaundement of the King and three Estates In Teuiotdaill The monuments yet stand to this houre but desert The Castell and fortalice of Dumbar a house of great strength till within these late yeeres it was demoleist by Iames Earle of Murray RegeÌ„t of Scotland In Lothien Desert 1 The Castell of Edinburgh inhabited by Iohn Earle of Mar. 2 The Castell and strength of of Blacknes in Lothien inhabited by Sir Iames Sandelands 3 The Castel and strength of Sterling inhabited by Iohn Earle of Mar and his Deputies 4 The Castell of Dumbarton inhabited by Iohn Lord Hammilton 5 The Castell of Lochmaben in Annandaill occupied by the Lord Maxwell 6 The Castell of Kirkwall in Orknay appertaining to the King inhabited by the Earle of Orknay A true description and diuision of the whole countrey of Scotland of the situation distance and commodities in euery part thereof SCotland is diuided from England first by the high hilles of Cheuiot and where the hilles doe end by a wall called The Marchdike made in our time and then by the waters Esk and Seloua By North those borders from the Scots sea to the Ireland sea The Countries lie in order as followeth The Maers wherein stands the Towne of Barwicke at this present possessed by England lies vpon the North side of Tweed which is compassed by the Firth of Forth on the East by England on the South Westward on both the sides of Tweed lies Teuiotdail taking the name from the water of Tiot diuided from England by the hilles of Cheuiot Next vnto Teuiotdail lie Countries that are not great Liddisdail Ewisdail and Esdail taking their names from three waters Liddall Ewis and Esk. The last is Annandail which also hath the name from the water of Annan diuiding the Countrey almost in two and runnes after Soloâ—â— into the Ireland sea Now let vs returne to Forth The Countrey of Lothian is compassed by it at the East Coeburnspeth and Lamermure diuides it from the Maers and then turning somewhat Westward it ioynes with Twedaill and Lawderdaill Tweddaill taking the name from the Riuer of Tweed which runnes through the same and Lawderdhill from the Towne of Lawder or rather from the water of Lider running through the Countrey Liddaill Nithisdaill and Clyddisdaill march with Tweddaill at the South and West parts thereof Nithisdaill taking the name from the
water of Nith running through it into the Ireland Sea Lothian so named from Loth King of Pights is bordered on the South-east by Forth or the Scottish sea on the Northwest by Clyddisdaill This Countrie in ciuilitie and aboundance of all other things necessarie for the vse of man excelles very farre all the rest of the countries of Scotland There runne fiue waters through it Tyne and Esk which both runne in one at the foote of the wood of Dalkeith before they enter into the sea Leith and Almon. Of those waters some spring out of Lamermure and some out of Pentland hils and runne into Forth The Townes of Lothian are Dunbar Hading commonly called Hadington Dalkeith Edinburgh Leigh Linlithgow lieth more westwardly Clyddisdaill lies on both the sides of Clyde which for the length thereof is deuided in three shires In the Ouerward there is an hill not to call hich out of the which spring riuers running into three sundry seas Twede into the Scottish sea Annand into the Ireland sea and Clyde into the great Ocean The chiefe Townes of Cliddisdaill are Lanark and Glasgow North-west from Cliddisdaill lies Kyle beyond Kyle lies Galloway which is diuided from Clyddisdaill by the water of Cloudan All Galloway almost declines to the South the shire whereof incloseth all the rest of that side of Scotland It is more plentifull in store than Cornes The waters of Galloway Vxe Dee Kenne Cree and Losse runne into the Ireland sea There is almost no great hilles in Galloway but it is full of Craggie knolles The waters gathering together in the vallies betwixt those knolles make almost innumerable Loches from whence the first flood that comes before the Autumnall Equinoctiall causeth such aboundance of waters to runne that there come foorth of the said Loches incredible numbers of Eeles and are taken by the Countrimen in wand Creeles who salting them obtaine no small gaine thereby The farthest part of that side is the head called Nonantum vnder the which there is an hauen at the mouth of the water of Lussie named by Ptolome Rerigonius In the other side of Galloway oueragainst this Hauen from Clyddis-forth there enters another Hauen named commonly Lochryen and by Ptolome Vidogora all that lieth betwixt these two Hauens the Countrie people call the Rynns that is the point of Galloway who also call it Nonantum the Mule that is the Beck The whole Country is named Galloway for Gallovid in the ancient Scottish tongue signifies a man of Gallia vnder Lochrien at the backe of Galloway lies Carrik declining easily till it come to Clyddisforth The waters of Stenzear and Greuan deuide Carrik vpon the cruiks of those waters there are many prettie villages Carrik betwixt the waters where it riseth in knolles is firtill of beastiall reasonable good ground for Corne. The whole Country of Carrik both by sea and land hath aboundance not only sufficient for themselues but also largely to support their neighbours The water of Dunes deuides Carrik from Kyle Dune springs out of a Loch of the same name in the middest whereof is an Yle on the which is builded a little Tower Next vnto Carrik lies Kyle marching vpon the South with Galloway vpon the Southeast with Clyddisdaill vpon the West with Cunninghame separated from thence by the water of Irwing The water of Air runnes through the midst of Kyle at the mouth of the water stands the towne of Air a notable market stead The Countrey generally is more aboundant of valiant men then of Corne and cattell the ground being but poore and sandie which sharpens the mens industrie and confirmes the strength of the minde and body by scarcenesse of liuing From Kyle Northward lies Cunninghame renewing Clide and reducing it to the quantity of a reasonable riuer The name of this countrey is Dens signifying in that language the Kings house whereby it appeares that the Danes haue beene sometimes masters thereof Next vnto Cunningham Eastward lies Renfrew so named from a little towne wherein they vse to keepe Session of Iustice to the countrey It is commonly named the Barronie and is diuided in the midst by two waters both called Carth. After the Barronie followeth Clyddisdaill lying on either side of Clyde which in respect of the quantitie thereof and landes of Glasgow is diuided in manie iurisdictions They that dwell vpon the landes of Glasgow haue their owne Iustice seat within the Towne of Glasgow The most notable waters of Clyddisdaill are Eruenne and Douglasse running into Clyde vpon the South side thereof and vpon the North side there is another called Auenne which cuts Lothian from Striueling shire These two waters haue gotten their names of Walter at the beginning instead of proper names as also the water of Auone in Walles hath done with a little difference for the propriety of the language sake Auenne deuides Sterling shire from Lothian at the South The Firth or Forth at the East which peece and peece becomes narrow till it growe to the quantity of a reasonable Riuer neere vnto Striueling bridge There is but one water worthy to make account of that runnes through it named Carron neere vnto the which there are some ancient monuments vpon the East side of Carron There are two little earthen knolles builded as may appeare by men commonly called Duini pacis that is The knolles of peace Two miles downward vpon the same water there is a round building without lyme made of hard stone in such sort that one part of the vppermost stones is indented within the stone that lies directly vnder it so that the whole worke by this coniunction mutuall and burthen of the stones vpholds it selfe growing narrow by little and little from the ground to the head where it is open like a Doue-coat The common sort of people following there owne fantasies haue deuised sundry Authours of this worke and that the same was appointed for sundry vses euery man appropriating an vse according to his owne deuise And I led by coniecture was sometime indeed of opinion that this was the Chappell of the God Terminus which as we read was appointed to be open aboue The two knolles Duini pacis lying so neere it doe somewhat fortifie this my coniecture as that peace had beene concluded there and this worke set vp in the memory thereof and that the same should be the border of the Romane Empire I could not be drawne from this opinion vntill I vnderstood that there are sundry workes in a certaine I le like vnto this Chappell in all things except that they are broader and wider In which respect I am compelled to suspend my iudgement farther than to thinke that these haue beene monuments of things done and especially of victories gotten and set vp in those places as it had beene out of the world the rather to be kept from the iniuries of enimies But truely whether they be monuments of victory or as
some beleeue Sepulchers of Noble men I trust they haue beene monuments to continue in eternall memory but builded by rude and vnlearned men like to this Chappell standing vpon Carron There is a peece of ground at the right side of Carron plaine almost round about growing to a knoll neere midway betwixt the Duini pacis and this Chappell into the which at the turning of the corner appeares at this day the roomes of a pretty Towne But by labouring of the ground where it stood and taking away of the stones for building of Gentlemens houses thereabouts the foundations of the Walles and description of the roomes cannot be discerned Beda the English Writer disertly names this place Guidi placing the same in the very corner of Seuerus Wall Many notable Romanes haue made mention of this Wall Heereof as yet remaine sundry apparances as stones gotten bearing inscriptions containing testimonies of safegard receiued of Tribunes and Centurions or else of their Sepulchers And seeing that from the Wall of Adrian to this Wall of Seuerus as the grounds of both doe witnesse it is little lesse then an hundred miles the ignorance of them that haue written the English matters was either great not vnderstanding the Latine Writers who intreated of them or else their ouersight that so confusedly handled that which was so cleerely written Howsoeuer the matter be if they be not worthy to be reprooued for this their deed at least I thinke them worthy to be slightly admonished thereof specially for that of the Records foresaids and of the History of Beda the English Writer it is certaine that there was sometime the Bordour betweene the Bryttaines and the Scottes They that tell that Camelot stood heere alleadge also that this Chappell before mentioned was the Temple of Claudius Caesar and both the one and the other is a vaine lier for that Camelot is a Colonie of the Romanes three hundred miles distant from this place if trueth may be giuen to Ptolomeus or Itinerarium Antonins And Cornelius Tacitus maketh this errour with the rest of the whole narratiue most knowen chiefly in that he writeth that the Romanes after they had lost Camelot fled for their owne preseruation to the temple of Claudius Caesar And whether this Chappell was the Temple of Terminus or a monument of any other thing wanting a doore whereof presently it hath neither signe or token being the height of a stones cast yet it could neuer couer ten armed men of warre or scarsely containe so many within the walles thereof Besides this after Claudius Caesars iourney almost fortie yeeres Iulius Agricola was the first Romane that euer entred in those parts Also was it not fiftie yeeres after Agricola that Adrianus made a wall betwixt Tyne and Esk to be the border of the Romane Prouince whereof to this present in diuers places signes do remaine Septimius Seuerus about the yeere of God 210 entred into Britannie and beyond this border appointed by Adrian 100 miles he made a wall from the Firth of Clyde to the mouth of Euen where it entreth into Forth Of this wall euen at this day there are many and cleare demonstrations Moreouer we neuer finde in the ancient monuments that Camelodonum was the chiefe seat of the Pights but that their Regall seat was in Abirnethie as also the Metropolitane seat of their Bishop which afterwards was transported to Saint Andrewes If it were inquired what mooued the Romanes to bring a Colonie there or how they susteined the same in so barraine a ground and as things were at that time wilde and vnmanured and subiect to the dayly iniuries of most cruell enemies they will as I suppose answere for I can not see what other thing they can say that they furnished it by sea what time ships sed to passe vp Garron euen to the towne wall If this were â—e of necessitie the ground of both the banks of Forth was then ouerflowed by the great Ocean and so was barren yet now that is the only ground that is supposed to be plentifull of cornes in those parts There is another question somewhat more difficill If both the bankes of Forth were drowned with salt water why ended not the Romanes their wall rather at that part then with superstuous laboures to drawe it further in length by many miles Beyond Striuiling-shire lieth the Lennox deuided from the Barrony of Renfrew by Clyde from Glasgow by the water of Heluin from Striuiling-shire by hilles from Teth by Forth and then ends in the hils of Grangebean at the foote whereof Loch-lomond runnes downe a lowe valley foure and twentie miles of length and eight of bredth hauing moe then foure and twentie Islands within the same This Loch besides aboundance of other fishes hath a kinde of fish of the owne named Pollac very pleasant to eate The water of Leuin runneth out of Loch-lomond southward which water hath giuen the name to the countrey Leuin entreth into Clyde neere to the Castle of Dumbarton and towne of the same name The westmost of the hilles of Grangebean make the border of the Lennox The hilles are cutted by a little bosome of the sea named for the shortnes thereof Ger-loch Beyond this Loch there is a farre greater Loch named from the water that runneth in it Loch-long and this water is the march betweene Lennox and Couall This Couall Argyle or rather Ergyle and Knapdaill are deuided in many parts by many narrow creekes that runne out of the firth of Clyde into them whereof there is one most notable named Loch-fyne from the water of Finne that runneth into it This Loch is threescore miles of length In Knapdaill is Loch-haw and therein a little Island with a strong Castle The water of Aw runneth out of this Loch and is the onely water of all that countrey that doth runne into the Deucalidon Sea North-west from Knapdaill doth lie Kentyir the head of the countrey ouer-against Ireland from which it is deuided by a little Sea Kyntyir is more long then broad ioyning to Knapdaill by so narrow a throate that it is scarce one mile in bredth and the same throate is nothing else but very sand lying so lowe that Mariners drawing their ships ofttimes through it make their iourney a great deale shorter then it would bee keeping the common course Lorne lying vpon Ergyle doth march with it vntill it come to Haber a plaine countrey and not vnfruitfull The countrey where the hilles of Grangebean are are most easie to be trauelled named broad Albin and that is to say the highest part of Scotland and the highest part of broad Albin is called Drunnalbin that is the backe of Scotland so tearmed not altogether without cause for forth of that backe waters do runne into both the Seas some vnto the North and some vnto the South Forth of Locherne the water of Erne runneth North-east and entreth into Tay vnder Sainct-Iohnstoun three miles The countrey that lieth on each side of this water taking the
the spring thereof is a Loch forth of the which comes the water of Lute running into the West sea By report there was at the mouth of this water a good Towne named Innerluther from the name of the water Surely if we will consider the nature of the people that dwell thereabouts the commodity of sailing and portage by sea this is very proper for an Hauen The ancient Kings allured by these commodities sometime dwelt there in the Castle of Enone which Castle many at this time sinisterly informed suppose to be Dunstaffage for the ruines and signes of Dunstaffage euen to this day may be seene in Lorne There are some small Countries cast in betwixt Buquhan and the Westsea which hauing no notable thing worthy of memory within them we ouerpasse Murray lies betwixt Spey and Naes sometime named as some suppose Verar The Germane sea running betwixt these two waters backeward makes the shire narrow and yet for the quantity it is wealthy in corne and store and is the first country of Scotland for pleasure and commodities of fruitfull trees There are two townes in it Elgin vpon the water of Loxi keeping at this day the ancient name and Innernes vpon the water of Naes Naes comes forth of a Loch 34 miles of length named Loch-naes The water of Naes is almost alwaies warme and at no time so cold that it freezeth yea in the most cold time of winter broken yce falling in it is dissolued by the heat thereof West from Lochnaes there lies eight miles of continent ground and that small peece is the onely impediment that the seas ioine not and make the remanent of Scotland an Iland for all the land that lies betwixt the strait and the Deucalidon sea is cutted by creeks and Loches of salt water running into the land The countrey that lies by North Naes and these straits is commonly diuided in foure Prouinces Nauern or as the common people name it Stranauerne from the water of Narn From the mouth of Naes where it enters into the Germane sea North lies Rosse shooting into the sea in great promontories or heads as the word it selfe expresseth For Rosse in Scottish is called An head The countrey of Rosse is of greater length then breadth extended from the Germaine to the Deucalidon sea where it riseth in craggy and wilde hilles and yet in the plaine fieldes thereof there is as great fertility of Corne as in any other part of Scotland There is in Rosse pleasant dales with waters and Loches full of fishes specially Loch-broome It is broad at the Deucalidon sea and growes narrow by little and little turning South-ward From the other shore the Germane sea winning the selfe an entry betwixt high Clints runnes within the land in a wide bosome and makes an healthfull port and sure refuge against all tempests and stormes The entry of it is easie and within it is a very sure Hauen against all iniuries of sea and a Hauen for great Nauies of ships Next vnto Rosse North-ward is Nauarn so named from the water of Nauarn which the common people following the custome of their countrey speech calleth Stranauerne Rosse-marches with Stranauerne at the South The Deucalidon sea at the West and North runnes about it and at the East it ioines with Caithnes Sotherland is so cast in amongst these countries that it is neighbour to them all and marches with euery one of them at some part At the West it hath Stranauerne at the East Rosse and at the North Caithnes lying ouer against it The Countrey people in respect of the nature of the ground are more giuen to store then to Corne. There is no singular thing in it that I know except the hilles of white Marble a rare woonder in cold countries and seruing for no purpose because that ouer-great delicacie the curious caruer of such things is not entered in that country Caithnes where it marches with Stranauerne is the furthest North countrey of all Scotland And those two Countries draw the breadth of Scotland into a narrow front In them are three promontories or heads the highest whereof is in Nauernia named by Ptolomie Orcas or Taruidum The other two not altogether so hie are in Caithnes Veruedrum now named Hoya and Berubrum vntruely by Boetius called Dume now commonly called Dunnesbey or by some Duncans-bey Of this word as appeareth some letters taken away the word Dunsbey is come At the foot of the hill there is a prety creeke which they that trauell from Orknay by sea vse for an hauen Creeke is commonly called a Bay This Creeke then being named by such as dwelt thereabout Duncans-bey or Dunnachis-bey the common people ioyning both the words in one haue in their fashion made the word Dunsbey In this Country Ptolomie places Carnauij of which names there remaine yet some signes for the Earle of Caithnes chiefe Castle is named Gernigo It appeares that the people named by Ptolomie Cornauij were called by the Britaynes Kernici for indeed not onely in this Countrey but also in the furthest place of this I le that is in Cornewales he places the people named Cornauij and they that speake the Britayne tong call the same people Kernici It may be that he should not iudge amisse that should esteeme Cornewales to be spoken for Kernice-wales taking that name from the Frenchmen called Kernici It appeareth likewise that some signes of this name although obscure remained in the middest of the I le For Beda writes that the beginning of Seuerus wall was not far from the Abbay of Kebercurnike but in these places now there is no appearance of any Abbay Yet there is in that part a Castle of Dowglasses ruinous and halfe decaied named Abircorne Whether one of these words or both be corruptly driuen for Kernici I leaue the Reader to iudge Of the Iles of Scotland ingenerall NOw resteth it to speake somewhat of the Iles the part of all the Brittaine History inuolued in greatest errours We will leaue the most ancient writers of whom we haue no certaintie and follow that which men of our owne time more truely and clearely haue written They diuide all the Iles which as it were crowne Scotland in three classes or ranks the West Iles Orkenay Iles and Shetland Iles. They call them West that lie in the Deucalidon sea from Ireland almost to Orknay vpon the West side of Scotland They that either in our Fathers daies or ours haue written any thing of Brittayne call these Iles Hebrides a new name indeede whereof they bring neither ground nor euidence from the ancient writers Some writers haue placed Aebudae Aemode or Acmode in that part of that Sea But so diuersly that they scarcely agree either in the number the situation or names Strabo to begin at him as most auncient perchance may be pardoned for that in his time that part of the world was not sufficiently explored and he therefore hath
eight miles of length and foure in breadth distant from Arrane as is said eight miles South-east and from Argyle South-west little more than halfe a mile from Cunnynghame which lies by-East of it sixe miles It is a low Countrey commodious enough for Corne and store In it is a towne of the same name and therein is the olde Castell of Rosa. There is another Castell in the middest of it named Cames in their owne language in Greeke Kamcos that is verie crooked The I le Mernoca a mile of length and halfe a mile of bredth lies lowe South-westward well manured and fertill for the quantitie Within the Firth of Clyde lies little Cambra and great Cambra not farre distant one from another Great Cambra is fertill of Corne and little Cambra of fallow Deere From the Mule of Kyntyre Littia more then a mile is Porticosa auona getting that name from the creeke of Walter that kept the Danes Nauie there at what time they had the Iles in their handes From the same Mule North-west ouer against the coast of Ireland lies Rachuda and from Kyntyre foure miles the little Ile Caraia and not farre from thence Gigaia sixe miles of length and a mile and a halfe of bredth Twelue miles from Gigaia lies Iura foure and twentie miles of length The shoreside of Iura is well manured and the inward part of the Countrey is cled with wood full of Deere of sundry kinds Some thinke that this I le was named of olde Dera which worde in the Gothicke tongue signifieth a Deere Two miles from Iura lies Scarba in length from the East to the West foure miles and a mile in bredth in few places occupied The tide of the sea betwixt this I le and Iura is so violent that it is not possible to passe it either by saile or aire except at certaine times At the backe of this I le are many vnwoorthie little Ilands scattered heere and there Ballach or Genistaria Gearastilla Longaia the 2. Fidlais the 3. Barbais distinguished by their owne proper names Culbremna Dunum Coilp Cuparia Beluahua Vikerana Vitulina Lumga Seila Scana These three last Iles are indifferent fertill of corne and store and pertaine to the Earles of Argyle Next vnto them is Sklata so named from a Sklait quarre that is in it Then Naguisoga and Eisdalfa and Skennia and that which is named Thiana from an herbe hurtfull to the cornes called Guld not vnlike to the herbe Lutea but that it is somewhat more waterish coloured Vderga and the kings Iland then Duffa that is blacke and the Iland of the Church and Triaracha and then the Iland Ardua Hunâ—lis Viridiâ— and Ericca Item Arboraria Capraâ—ia Cunicularia and it that is named the Iland of Idle-men and Abridica and Lismora wherein sometime was the Bishops feate of Argyle It is eight miles of length and two in breadth In this Iland besides the commodities that it hath common with the rest there are Mynes of mettalles Then Ouilia the Iland Traiecte the Iland Garna that is sharpe the Iland of the stane Gressa and the great Iland Ardiescara Musadilla and Bernera sometime called the holie Girth notable by the tree Taxus which growes in it Molochasgia Drinacha full of thornes and Bourtree ouer-couered with the ruines of old houses Wrichtoun fertill of wood Item Ransa Kernera The greatest Iland next vnto Iura westward is Yla 24. miles of length and sixteene of bredth extended from the South to the North aboundant in store Cornea Deere and Lead There is a fresh water in it called Laia and a creeke of salt water and therein are many Ilands In it also is a fresh water Loch wherein stands the Iland named Fulnigania sometime the chiefe seate of all the Iles-men There the Gouernour of the Iles vsurping the name of a King was wont to dwell Neere vnto this Iland and somewat lesse then it is the round Iland taking the name from Counsell for therein was the Iustice seate and fourteene of the most woorthy of the Countrey did minister Iustice vnto all the rest continually and intreated of the waightie affaires of the Realme in counsell whose great equitie and discretion kept peace both at home and abroade and with peace was the companion of peace aboundance of all things Betwixt Ila and Iura lies a little Iland taking the name from a Cairne of stones At the South-side of Ila doe lie these Ilands Colurna Muluoâ—is Osâ—una Brigidana Corskera the lowe Iland Imersga Beathia Texa Ouicularia Noasiga Vinarda Caua Tarsheria The great Iland Auchnarra the Iland made like a man the Iland of Iohn Slakbadis At the west corner of Ila lies Ouersa where the sea is most tempestuous and at certaine houres vnnauigable The Marchants Iland And Southwest-ward from it Vsabrasta Tanasta and Nefa The Weauers Iland Eight miles from Ila somewhat towards the North lies Ornansa Next vnto it the Swines Iland Halfe a mile from Ornansa Colnansa North from Colnansa lies the Mule twelue miles distant from Ila This I le is foure and twentie miles of length and as much in bredth vnpleasant indeed but not vnfruitfull of Cornes There are many woods in it many heardes of Deere and a good hauen for shippes There are in it two waters entring into the Sea ouer against the Dowe Iland and there are two waters well spred of Salmond fish and some strippes not altogether emptie thereof There are also two Loches in it and in euerie one of the Loches an Iland and in euerie Iland a towre The sea running into this Iland at foure sundrie parts makes foure salt-water Loches therein all foure abounding in Herring To the North-west lies Calumbaria or the Dowe Iland to the South-est Era both the one and the other profitable for Bestiall for Cornes and for fishings From this Iland two miles lies the Iland of Sanct-colme two miles of length and more then a mile of bredth fertill of all things that that part of the heauen vseth to produce Renowmed by the auncient monuments of that countrey but most esteemed for the sincere holinesse and discipline of Sanct-colme There were in this Iland two Abbies one of Monkes another of graie Fryars a Court or as it is tearmed at this time a parish Church with many Chappelles builded of the liberalitie of the Kings of Scotland and gouernours of the Iles. When as the English men had taken Eubonia and therein the auncient seate of the Bishops of the Iles they placed their seate into the old Cloister of Sanct-colme There is as yet remaining amongst the old ruines a buriall place or Church-yard common to all the Noble families of the West Iles wherein there are three tombes higher then the rest distant euerie one from another a little space and three little houses situated to the East builded seuerally vpon the three tombes vpon the west parts whereof there are stones grauen expressing whose tombes these were which stand in
with grasse to the verie top Master Donald Monro a learned and godly man sayth that when he was there he saw sheepe as olde as that kinde of Bestiall vseth to be feeding masterlesse perteining peculiarlie to no man the commoditie whereof is the greater for that there is neither Woolfe Foxe or Serpent seene there albeit that betwixt that part and Lewis there be great woods full of Deere but they are of stature low and not great of bodie In that part also of the Iland is a water well stored of Salmond fishes Vpon the North side of it it is well manured vpon the sea side There are in it foure Churches one Castle seuen great running waters and twelue lesse all for their quantities plentifull of Salmond fish The sea enters within the land in diuers parts of the Iland making sundrie salt water Loches all plentifull of Herring There is in it great commoditie of sheepe which feed at their pleasure vpon the hadder and amongst the bushes and craigs The Inhabitants gather them together euery yeere once either within some narrow roome or else within some flaik foldes and there conforme to the ancient custome of the Countrey they plucke off the wooll of them The most part of the hie land hereof is moory ground the superfice whereof is blacke congealed together by long progresse of time of mosse and rotten wood to the thicknesse of a foot or thereabouts the vpper scruffe is cast in long thicke turffes dried at the Sunne and so wonne to make fire of and burnt in stead of wood The next yeere after they mucke the bare ground where the scruffe was taken away with sea ware and sowe Barley vpon it In this Iland is such abundance of Whales taken that as aged men report the Priests will get of small and great together 27 Whales for their tenth There is also in this Iland a great Caue wherein the sea at a low water abides two faddome high and at a full sea it is more than foure faddome deepe people of all sorts and ages sit vpon the rockes thereof with hooke and line taking innumerable multitude of all kinde of fishes South-east from Lewis almost threescore miles there is a little Iland lowe and plaine well manured named Rona the Inhabitants thereof are rude men and almost without religion The Lord of the ground limits certeine number of households to occupie it appointing for euery householde few or many sheepe according to his pleasure whereon they may easily liue and pay him his rent Whatsoeuer rests at the yeeres end more than their necessary sustentation they send the same yeerely to Lewis to their master The rent for the most part which they pay is barlie meale sewed vp in sheepe-skinnes in great quantitie amongst them growes no store of any other kinde of graine Mutton and so many sea-fowles dried at the Sunne as they themselues leaue vneaten at the yeeres end are sent to their master And in case at any time the number of persons increase in their houses they giue all that exceed the ordinary number to their master so that in my opinion they are the onely people in the world that want nothing but hath all things for themselues in abundance vncorrupt with lecherie or auarice and are indued with innocencie and quietnesse of minde which other people with great trauell seeke out by the institutions and precepts of Philosophie purchast to them by ignorance of vice so that they appeare to want nothing of the highest felicitie that may be except only that they are ignorant of the commoditie of their owne condition There is in this Iland a Chappell dedicated to Saint Ronan wherein as aged men report there is alwayes a Spade wherewith when as any is dead they finde the place of his graue marked In it besides diuers kindes of fishings there are many Whales taken Sixteene miles West from this Iland lies Suilkeraia a mile in length but in it growes no kinde of hearbe no not so much as Hadder There is only blacke craggie hilles in it and some of them couered with blacke mosse Sea-fowles lay their egges in sundrie places thereof and doe hatch When they are neere their flight the inhabitants of Leogus next neighbours vnto it saile thither and remaine there eight daies or thereabout to take and gather the fowles drying them at the winde and load their boates with the dried flesh and feathers thereof In that Iland is seene a rare kinde of fowle vnknowen to other countries named Colca little lesse in quantity then a Goose. These fowles come there euery yeere in the Spring time hatch and nourish their young ones till they be able to liue by themselues About that same very time they cast their fethers and become starke naked of all their body and then they get themselues to the sea and are neuer seene againe till the next Spring This farther is notable in them their feathers haue no stalke as other fowles feathers haue but they are all couered with a light feather like vnto Doun wherein is no kinde of hardnesse The Iles of Orkenay in the North of Scotland Now follow the Iles of Orkenay lying scattered partly in the Deucalidon sea partly in the Germaine seas towards the North parts of Scotland The ancient writers and the late writers both agree sufficiently vpon their name but yet neuer man so farre as I know hath giuen any reason of the same neither yet is it sufficiently knowen who were the first possessors thereof All men notwithstanding alledge their originall to be from Germany but of which countrey they are discended none hath expressed Vnlesse we list to coniecture from their speech they sometime spake and yet speake the ancient language of the Gothes Some are of opinion that they were Pights chiefely perswaded heereunto through their deuision by the sea named Perth and Firth from Caithnes who likewise suppose that the Pights were of their originall Saxons mooued heereunto by the verse of Claudian taken out of his 7. Panegericke Maduerunt Saxone fuso Orcades incaluit Pictorum sanguine Thule Scotorum cumulos fleuit glacialis Ierne But these mens errors may be easily confuted partly by Beda an English Saxon himselfe who affirmes that God was praised in seuen sundry languages amongst the Britaines and that the Pights language was one of them may well appeare for if that at that time the Pights had spoken Saxon which was then the vncorrupted speech of the Englishmen hee would then haue made no diuision betwixt the Saxons and the Pights language and partie also confuted by Claudian himselfe who in the very same verses disertly noteth the Pights a seuerall people from the Saxons affirming the Countrey of the one nation to be Orknay and the Countrey of the other Thule from which Country soeuer they be descended at this day their language differs both from the Scottish and English tongues but not much differs from the Gothes The common people to
this day are very carefull to keepe the ancient frugality of their Predecessors and in that respect they continue in good health for the most part both in minde and body so that few die of sicknesse but all for age The ignorance of delicacie is more profitable to them for preseruation of their health then the Art of medicine and diligence of Mediciners is to others The same their frugality is a great helpe to their beauty and quantity of stature There is small increase of Cornes amōgst them except of Oates and Barley whereof they make both breade and drinke They haue sufficient store of quicke goods Neat Seepe and Goates and thereby great plenty of milke cheese and butter They haue innumerable sea Fowles whereof and of fish for the most part they make their common food There is no venemous beast in Orknay nor none that is euill fauoured to looke vpon They haue little Nagges little worth in appearance but more able mettelled for any turne then men can beleeue There is no kinde of tree no not so much as a sprig in Orknay except Hadder The cause heereof is not so much in the aire and ground as in the sloth of the Inhabitants This may be easily prooued by roots of trees that are taken out of the ground in sundry parts of the I le When Wine comes there in ships forth of strange countries they geedily swallow it till they be drunken They haue an old Cup amongst them which to the effect their drunkenesse may haue the greater authority they say did appertaine to Saint Magnus the first man that brought the Christian Religion into that countrey This Cup exceeds farre the common quantity of other Cups so as it appeares to haue beene kept since the banquet of the Lapithes By it they trie their Bishop first when he comes amongst them Hee that drinkes out the whole cuppe at one draught which is seldome seene is by them extolled to the skies for heereof as from a blyth presage they conceiue with themselues increase in their goods the yeeres following Heereupon we may easily coniecture that the frugalitie whereof I speake proceeded not so much from reason and care to bee frugall as from pouertie and scarcitie And the same necessitie that was Mother of this frugalitie at the beginning kept her daughter long after amongst the ofspring of that I le till such time as the countries lying neere vnto it Luxurie increasing being corrupted the auncient discipline by little and little deformed they likewise gaue themselues to deceitfull pleasures Their traffique also with Pirats was a great spurre to the decaie of their temperancie The Pyrats fearing to frequent the company of them that dwelt in the continent land got fresh water foorth of the Iles made exchaunge with the inhabitants thereof giuing them wines and other sleight marchandise for fresh riuers or taking the same vpon slight prices from the people who being a small number without armes and lying so wide one from another in a tempestuous Sea staying and impeding their incurrence for mutuall defence and finding themselues vnable to withstand those Pyrats considering also their owne securitie ioyned with aduantage and pleasure were contented not altogether against their willes to receiue them at least they opponed not themselues directly vnto them The contagion of maners began not in the simple people but it did both begin and continued in the wealthie men and Priestes For the common sort at this day keepe some remembrance of their accustomed moderation The Orkenay sea is so tempestuous and raging not onely in respect of the violent windes and aspect of the heauens but also in consideration of the contrarious tides running headlong together from the West Ocean that the Vessels comming in anie strayt betwixt two landes can neither by saile nor oare once releeue themselues of raging tides and whirling waues of the Seas If any dare approach the strait they are either violently brought backe into the sea by the rage thereof broken vpon rockes and driuen vpon skares or else by the sworle of the seas sunke in the waues thereof These Straits may be passed at two times of the tyde when the weather is calme either at a deepe neep or at a full sea At these times the great Ocean offended with contentious tides whose force raised huge contrary waues sounds as it were the retreat in such sort that the surges of the seas oft before raging returne againe to their owne camps Writers agree not vpon the number of these Iles of Orkenay Plinius saies there be 40. Iles of them Others thinke there is but 30. or thereabout Paulus Orosius accounting them to be 33. in number iudgeth the neerest the truth Of these there be 13. inhabited the remanent are reserued for nourishing of Cattell There are also some little Ilands amongst them of so narrow bounds that scarcely albeit they were laboured are able to sustaine one or two labourers Others are but either hard crags bare or else crags couered with rotten Mosse The greatest of the Orkenay Ilands is named by many of the ancients Pomona At this day it is called The firme lande for that it is of greater quantitie then any of the rest It is 30. miles of length sufficiently inhabited It hath twelue Countrey parish Churches and one Towne named by the Danes to whose Iurisdiction these Ilands were sometimes subiect Cracomaca but now the name being corrupt it is called in Scottish Kirkwaa In this towne there are two little Towers builded not farre the one from the other one of them appertaines to the King the other to the Bishop Betwixt these two towers stands one Church very magnifique for such a Countrey Betwixt this Church and the towers on either side are sundrie buildings which the Inhabitants name The Kings towne and the Bishops towne The whole Iland runnes out in Promontories or heads betwixt which the sea runnes in and makes sure hauens for ships and harbours for boats In sixe sundrie places of this I le there are Mines of as good Lead and Tynne as is to be found in any part of Britayne This Iland is distant from Caithnes 24. miles or thereabouts deuided from thence by the Pights sea of whose nature we haue already spoken In this sea are diuers Ilands scattered here and there of whom Stroma for the quantitie lying foure myles from Caithnes is one and that not vnfruitfull but because it lies so neere to the continent land of Britaine and that the Earles of Caithnes haue alwaies bene Masters and Lords thereof it is not accounted amongst the Iles of Orknay From this Iland Northward lies South Ranalsay which is distant from Duncan-bey or rather Dunachis-bey sixteene miles and may be sailed with tide although there bee no winde in the space of two houres the course of that Sea is so vehement Ranalsay is fiue miles long and hath a commodious hauen named after Saint Margaret From it somewhat Eastward
growes the delectable Lambre called Succinum Where is also great resort of the beast called the Mertrik the skins whereof are costly furrings In Rosse there be great Mountaines of Marble and Alabaster In the South of Scotland specially in the Countries adiacent to England there is a Dog of maruellous nature called the Suth-hound because when as he is certified by wordes of Arte spoken by his Master what goods are stolne whether Horse sheepe or Neat immediatly he addresseth him suthly to the sent and followeth with great impetuositie through all kind of ground and water by as many ambages as the theeues haue vsed till he attaine to their place of residence By the benefit of the which Dogge the goods are recouered But now of late he is called by a new popular name the Slouth-hound Because when as the people doe liue in slouth and idlenesse and neither by themselues or by the office of a good Herd or by the strength of a good house they doe preserue their goods from the incursion of theeues and robbers then haue they recourse to the Dogge for reparation of their slouth In the West and North-west of Scotland there is great repairing of a Fowle called the Erne of a marueilous nature and the people are very curious and solist to catch him whom thereafter they punze off his wings that he shall not be able to flie againe This Fowle is of a huge quantitie and although he be of a rauenous nature like to the kind of Haulks and be of that same qualitie gluttonous neuerthelesse the people doe giue him such sort of meate as they thinke conuenient and such a great quantitie at a time that he liues contented with that portion for the space of fourteene sixteene or twentie daies and some of them for the space of a Moneth The people that doe so feed him doe vse him for this intent That they may be furnished with the feathers of his wings when hee doth cast them for the garnishing of their arrowes either when they are at warres or at hunting for these feathers onely doe neuer receiue raine or water as others doe but remaine alwaies of a durable estate and vncorruptible In all the Moore-land and Mosse-land of Scotland doth resort the blacke Cocke a fowle of a marueilous beautie and marueilous bountie for he is more delectable to eate then a Capon and of a greater quantitie cled with three sorts of flesh of diuers colours and diuers tastes but all delectable to the vse and nouriture of man In the two Riuers of Deé and Done besides the maruellous plentie of Salmon fishes gotten there there is also a marueilous kinde of shel-fish called the Horse-mussell of a great quantitie wherein are ingendred innumerable faire beautifull and delectable Pearles conuenient for the pleasure of man and profitable for the vse of Physicke and some of them so faire and polished that they bee equall to any mirrour of the world And generally by the prouidence of the Almightie God when dearth and scarcitie of victuals doe abound in the land then the fishes are most plentifully taken for support of the people In Galloway the Loch called Loch-myrton although it be common to all fresh water to freeze in Winter yet the one halfe of this Loch doth neuer freeze at any time In the shire of Innernes the Loch called Loch-nes and the riuer flowing from thence into the sea doth neuer freeze But by the contrary in the coldest daies of Winter the Loch and riuer are both seene to smoake and reeke signifying vnto vs that there is a Myne of Brimstone vnder it of a hot qualitie In Carrik are Kyne and Oxen delicious to eate but their fatnes is of a wonderfull temperature that although the fatnes of all other comestable beasts for the ordinarie vse of man doe congeale with the cold aire by the contrarie the fatnesse of these beasts is perpetually liquid like oile The wood and Parke of Commernauld is replenished with Kyne and Oxen and those at all times to this day haue beene wilde and all of them of such a perfect wonderfull whitenesse that there was neuer among all the huge number there so much as the smallest blacke spot found to be vpon one of their skinnes horne or clooue In the Parke of Halyrud-house are Foxes and Hares of a wonderfull whitenesse in great number In Coyle now called Kyle is a rock of the height of twelue foot and as much of bredth called the Deafe Craig For although a man should crie neuer so loud to his fellow from the one side to the other he is not heard although he would make the noise of a gunne In the countrey of Stratherne a little aboue the old towne of the Pights called Abirnethie there is a maruellous Rocke called the Rocke and stone of a reasonable bignes that if a man will push it with the least motion of his finger it wil mooue verie lightly but if he shall addresse his whole force he profites nothing which mooues many people to be wonderfull merry when they consider such contrarietie In Lennox is a great Loch called Loch-lowmond being of length 24. miles in bredth eight miles containing the number of thirtie Iles. In this Loche are obserued three woonderfull things One is fishes very delectable to eate that haue no fynnes to mooue themselues withall as other fishes doe The second tempestuous waues and surges of the water perpetually raging without windes and that in time of greatest calmes in the faire pleasant time of Summer when the aire is quiet The third is One of these Iles that is not corroborate nor vnited to the ground but hath beene perpetually loose and although it be fertill of good grasse and replenished with Neat yet it moues by the waues of the water and is transported sometimes towards one point and otherwhiles toward another In Argyle is a stone found in diuers parts the which laid vnder straw or stubble doth consume them to fire by the great heat that it collects there In Buquhan at the castle of Slains is a caue from the top whereof distilles water which within short time doth congeale to hard stones white in colour In this countrey are no Rottons seene at any time although the land be wonderfull fertill In Lothien within two miles of Edinburgh Southward is a wel-spring called Saint Katherins well which flowes perpetually with a kind of blacke fatnesse aboue the water whereof Dioscorides makes mention This fatnes is called Bitumen aquis supernatans It is thought to proceed of a fat myne of Coale which is frequent in all Lothien and specially of a sort of coale called vulgarly the Parret coale For as soone as it is laid in the fire it is so fat and gummy that it renders an exceeding great light dropping frying hissing and making a great noise with shedding and diuiding it selfe in the fire and of that marueilous nature that as soone as it is laide in a quicke fire immediately it conceiues a great flame which is not common to any other sort of coale This fatnes is of a marueilous vertue That as the coale whereof it proceeds is sudden to conceiue fire and flame so is this oile of a sudden operation to heale al salt scabs and humours that trouble the outward skin of man wheresouer it be froÌ„ the middle vp as commonly those of experience haue obserued All scabbes in the head and hands are quickly healed by the benefit of this oile and it renders a marueilous sweet smell At Abirdene is a well of marueilous good qualitie to dissolue the stone to expell sand from the reines and bladder and good for the collicke being drunke in the Moneth of Iuly and a few daies of August little inferiour in vertue to the renowned water of the Spaw in Almanie In the North seas of Scotland are great clogges of timber found in the which are marueilously ingendred a sort of Geese called Clayk-geese and do hang by the beake til they be of perfection ofttimes found and kept in admiration for their rare forme of generation At Dumbartan directly vnder the Castle at the mouth of the riuer of Clyde as it enters into the sea there are a number of Claik-geese blacke of colour which in the night time do gather great quantitie of the crops of the grasse growing vpon the land and carry the same to the sea Then they assemble in a round and with a wondrous curiositie do offer euery one his owne portion to the Sea-floud and there attend vpon the flowing of the tide till the grasse be purified from the fresh taste and turned to the salt and lest any part thereof should escape they labour to hold it in with labour of their nebbes Thereafter orderly euery fowle eates his portion And this custome they obserue perpetually They are verie fatte and verie delicious to bee eaten FINIS The borders in order The causes of their denominations The Townes of Lothian The chiefe townes of Clyddisdaill Gâ—lloway described Carrik described Kyle described Cunninghame described Renfrew described Clyddisdaill Two ancient monuments The countrey people doe call it Arthours ouen A fertill soile Atholl Dunkeld Gowrie Angusse This towne is now called by all men in the Vulgar tongue Downdee Abirdene Abirdene an vniuersity flourishing in all kinde of artes Marre Badzenoch Habre The broadnesse of Scotland Buquhan A strange thing Boyne Enzeé Murray A Loch of a strange nature Rosse the descriptioÌ„ thereof Nauarne Sotherland Hilles of white Marble Caithnes The desdiuided The numbers of the Scottish Iles are 300 Iles and aboue The maner of their bankets Their drinke Their attire coloured garments Their maner of lodging Their armour in time of war An ancient Castle Iura Lutea Taxus a tree not vnlike to the Fir-tree but the fruit thereof is venemous Iland like a man Iland of Weauers Buriall places of the Kings of Scotland Kings of Ireland Kings of Norway Horse-Iland Swine-Iland A strange kind of fish A barbarous people Iland of Pigmeis Adams Iland Horse-Ile Whales A happie people A miracle A strange kinde of Fowle haunting in the I le of Suilkeraia A healthfull countrey No venemous beast in Orknay Their Horse S. Magnus Bicker Dangerous seas The ancient and new name of the chiefest Towne in Orkenay Mynes of Lead and Tynne An Iland wherin no kinde of she-beast will liue 24 houres together except Ky Ewes Conies and such beasts as may be eaten
but followed the vncertaine brute Mela reckoneth seuen Aemodae Martianus Capella also many Acmodae Ptolomeus and Solinus fiue Aebudae Plinius seuen Acmodae and thirtie Aebudae We will retaine the name that is most frequent and common amongst the ancients and call all the West Iles Aebudae and shew their situation the nature of euery one of them and commodities therof out of recent authors that haue lately written as most certaine First we will follow Donald Munro a man both godly and diligent who trauelled all these Iles vpon his feet and saw them perfectly with his eies They lie scattered into the Deucalidon sea to the number of 300. and aboue Of olde the Kings of Scotland kept these Iles in their owne possession vntill the time of Donald brother to King Malcome the 3. who gaue them to the king of Norway vpon condition that he should assist him in vsurping of the kingdome of Scotland against law and reason The Danes and Norway people kept possession of them for the space of 160. yeeres and then King Alexander the third ouercomming the Danes and Norway men in a great battell thrust them out of the Iles yet afterward they attempted to recouer their libertie partly trusting to their owne strength and partly mooued by sedidions in the maine land of this Countrey creating Kings of themselues as not long agoe Iohn of the house of Clandonald did vsurpe the name of King as others had done before In food raiment and all things pertaining to their familie they vse the ancient frugalitie of the Scots Their bankets are hunting and fishing They seeth their flesh in the â—ripe or else in the skinne of the beast filling the same full of water Now and then in hunting they straine out the blood and eate the flesh raw Their drinke is the broth of sodden flesh They loue very well the drinke made of whey and kept certaine yeeres drinking the same at feasts It is named by them Blandium The most part of them drinke water Their custome is to make their bread of Oates and Barly which are the onely kinds of graine that grow in those parts Experience with time hath taught them to make it in such sort that it is not vnpleasant to eate They take a little of it in the morning and so passing to the hunting or any other businesse content themselues therewith without any other kinde of meat till euen They delight in marled clothes specially that haue long stripes of sundrie colours They loue chiefly purple and blew Their predecessors vsed short mantles or plaids of diuers colours sundry waies deuided and amongst some the same custome is obserued to this day but for the most part now they are browne most neere to the colour of the Hadder to the effect when they lie amongst the Hadder the bright colour of their plaids shall not bewray them with the which rather coloured then clad they suffer the most cruell tempests that blowe in the open field in such sort that vnder a wrythe of Snow they sleepe sound In their houses also they lie vpon the ground laying betwixt them and it Brakens or Hadder the rootes thereof downe and the tops vp so prettily laid together that they are as soft as feather-beds and much more wholsome for the tops themselues are drie of nature whereby it dries the weake humours restores againe the strength of the sinewes troubled before and that so euidently that they who at euening go to rest sore and wearie rise in the morning whole and able As none of these people care for feather-beds and bedding so take they greatest pleasure in rudenesse and hardnesse If for their owne commoditie or vpon necessitie they trauell to any other Countrey they reiect the feather-beds and bedding of their Hoste They wrap themselues in their owne plaids so taking their rest carefull indeed lest that barbarous delicacie of the maine Land as they tearme it corrupt their naturall and Country hardnesse Their armour wherewith they couer their bodies in time of warre is an Iron Bonnet and an Habbergion side almost euen to their heeles Their weapons against their enemies are bowes and arrowes The arrowes are for the most part hooked with a barble on either side which once entered within the body cannot be drawne forth againe vnlesse the wound be made wider Some of them fight with broad swords and axes In place of a drum they vse a bag-pipe They delight much in musicke but chiefly in Harps and Clairschoes of their owne fashion The strings of the Clairschoes are made of brasse-wire and the strings of the Harps of sinewes which strings they strike either with their nailes growing long or else with an Instrument appointed for that vse They take great pleasure to decke their Harps and Clairschoes with siluer and precious stones and poore ones that cannot attaine heereunto decke them with Christall They sing verses prettily compound containing for the most part praises of valiant men There is not almost any other argument whereof their rimes entreat They speake the auncient French language altered a little THE ILES LYING ABOVT Scotland that speake the ancient language called the VVest Iles are these that follow THe first of them all is the I le of Man vntruely by some men named Mon by the ancients called Dubonia by Paulus Orosius Menenia or rather Maenante and in the old countrey speech Manium Before this time there was a Towne in it named Sodora wherein the Bishop of the Iles had his seat It lies almost midway betwixt Ireland and Cumbir a Countrey of England and Galloway a Countrey of Scotland 24 miles in length and 18 in breadth Next vnto Man is Ailsay into the Firth of Clyde an hard high craig on all sides except at an entrie It is neuer occupied by any man but that at sometimes there come a great number of Boats there to fish keeling There are many Conies and Sea-fowles in it specially of that kinde which wee call Solayne-Geese It hath Carrik vpon the North-east Ireland vpon the North-west almost and Kyntyre vpon the South-east Foure and twentie miles from Ailsay lies Arrane almost direct North 24 miles of length and 16 of breadth All the whole Iland riseth in high and wilde mountaines It is manured onely vpon the sea side Where the ground is lowest the sea runnes in and makes a well large Creeke into it the entries whereof are closed by the Iland Molas the hilles rising on all sides and breaking the rage of the windes in such sort that within is a very sure hauen for shippes and in the waters which are alwaies calme such abundance of fish that if there be more taken than the Countrey people thinke should serue them for a day they cast them in againe into the sea as it were in a stanke Not farre from Arrane lies the little Ile Flada fertill of Conies Farther in it is situate the I le of Bute within the Firth of Clyde
an hill full of hearbes from the foot to the head vpon the top whereof is a fresh water well The spring that runneth from this well to the next sea carries with it little things like as they were quicke but hauing the shape of no beast which appeare although obscurely in some respect to represent the fish that we call commonly Cockles The people that dwell there call that part of the shore whereunto these things are carried The great sandes Because that when the sea ebbes there appeareth nothing but drie sandes the space of a mile Out of these sandes the people digge out great Cocles which the neighbours about iudge either to grow as it were of that seede that the springs doe bring from the well or else indeed to grow in that sea Betwixt Barra and Wist lie these little Ilands following Oronsa Onia Hakerseta Garnlanga Flada great Buya little Buya Haya Hell saea Gygaia Lingaia Foraia Fudaia Eriscaia From these Ilands Vistus lies Northward 34 miles of length and 6 miles of bredth The tide of the sea running into two places of this I le causeth it to appeare three Ilands but when the tide is out it becommeth all one Iland In it are many fresh water loches specially one three miles long The sea hath worne in vpon the land and made it selfe a passage to this Loch and can neuer be holden out albeit the inhabitants haue made a wall of sixty foote broad to that effect The water entreth in amongst the stones that are builded vp together and leaues behinde it at the ebbe many sea-fishes There is a fish in it like to the Salmond in all things except that with the white womb it hath a blacke backe and wanteth skailes Item in this Iland are innumerable fresh-water loches There is in it caues couered ouer with Hadder that are very dennes for knaues In it are fiue churches 8 miles West from it lies Helsther Vetularum so named as I beleeue because it appertaineth to the Nunnes of the I le of Ione A little further North riseth Haneskera about this Iland at certaine times of the yeere are many Sealches they are taken by the countrey-men South-west almost sixty miles from Haneskera lies Hirta fertill in corne and store specially in sheepe which are greater then the sheepe of any the other Ilands The Inhabitants thereof are rude in all kinde of craft and most rude in Religion After the Summer Solstice which is about the seuenteenth day of Iune the Lord of the Iland sendeth his Chamberlaine to gather his dueties and with him a Priest who baptizeth all the children that are borne the yeere preceeding And if it chance the Priest not to come then euery man baptizeth his owne childe The tenants pay to their Lordes certaine number of Sealches of Reisted Wedders and Sea-fowles The whole Iland passeth not one mile in length and as much in bredth There is no part of it that can be seene by any of the other Ilands except three hilles which are vpon the coast thereof and may be seene from high places of some other Ilands In these hilles are very faire sheepe but scarsely may any man get to them for the violence of the tide Now let vs returne to Wistas From the North point thereof is the Iland Velaia one mile of bredth and twise as long Betwixt this point and the Iland Harea lie these Ilands following little of quantitie but not vnfruitfull Soa Stroma Pabaia Barneraia Emsaia Keligira Little Saga Great Saga Harmodra Scarua Grialinga Cillinsa Hea Hoia Little Soa Great Soa Isa Little Seuna Great Seuna Taransa Slegana Tuemen Aboue Horea is Scarpa and halfe a mile towards the West Equinoctiall from the Lewis lie seuen little Ilands which some name Flananae some holy places of girth and refuge rising vp in hilles that are full of hearbs but vnlaboured of any man There is neuer almost one foure-footed beast in them except wilde sheepe which are taken by hunters but they serue of no purpose for eating because in stead of flesh they haue a kinde of fatnesse and if there be any flesh vpon them it is so vnpleasant that no man vnlesse he be very sore oppressed with extreme hunger will taste of it Further North in the same ranke lies Garn Ellan that is the hard I le Lamba Flada Kellasa Little Barnera Great Barnera Kirta Little Bina Great Bina Vexaia Pabaia Great Sigrama Cunicularia so named from the plentie of Conies that are there Little Sigrama The Iland of the Pigmeis In this Iland is a church wherin the Pigmeis were buried as they that are neighbours to the Iland beleeue Sundrie strangers digging deepely in the ground sometimes haue found and yet to this day doe finde verie little round heads and other little bones of mans bodie which seemes to approue the trueth and apparance of the common brute In the North-east side of the Iland Leogus there are two Loches running foorth of the sea named the North and South Loches wherein at all times of the yeere there is abundance of fish for all men that list to take them From the same side of the Loch somewhat more Southerly lies Fabilla Adams Iland the Lambe Iland Item Hulmetia Viccoilla Hanarera Laxa Era the Dow Iland Tora Iffurta Sealpa Flada Senta At the East side whereof there is a passage vnder the earth vaulted aboue a flight shoot of length into the which little boates may either saile or rowe for eschewing of the violent tide raging with great noice and danger of them that saile betwixt the Iland and the head that is next vnto it Somewhat Eastward lies an Iland named Old Castle a roome strong of nature and sufficient enough to nourish the inhabitants in cornes fish and egges of Sea-fowles that build in it At that side where Lochbrien enters is situate the Iland Eu all full of woods onely meet to couer Theeues who lie in wait for passengers comming that way More Northerlie lies the Iland Grumorta and it is likewise full of woods and haunted by throat-cutters The Iland named the Priests Iland lies that same way profitable for pastourage of sheepe and full of Sea-fowles Next vnto it is Afulla Neighbour to Afulla is great Habrera then little Habrera and neere vnto it the Horse-Ile and besides that againe the Iland Marta Ika These last mentioned Ilandes lie all before the entrie of Lochbrien and from them Northward lie Haray and Lewis 16 miles of length and 16 of bredth These three make an Iland which is not diuided by any hauen or port of the Sea but by the seuerall Lordships of the heritours thereof The South part is commonly named Haray In it sometime was the Abbey named Roadilla builded by Maccleude Hareis It is a Countrey fertill enough in Cornes but yet the increase commeth rather of digging and deluing than by earing with the plough There is good pastourage for sheepe in it chiefly a high hill ouer-couered