it was found in different forms for some was found full of holes or caverns like a Spunge others on the contrary were firm close sollid shining and Diaphanous as Glass which being let fall easily will split in thin leaves and is fryable in beating and from its various appearances is judged its manifold vertues in one more powerful than another which is known by its operation From hence we see that which is to be found from the testimony of the best received Authors about the Mineral Niter and in none is any mention made of Artificial Salt-Peter or such as we at present make use of generally which is called properly Salt-Peter Sal Nitre or Halinitre yet is there very little difference between the Natural that useth to be brought to us and the Artificial for if we compare the vertues and operations of the one we shall find them in our uses no way d ffering as Scaliger testifies saying that the ancient Niter is not much different from ours particularly if we consider its tenuity and subtil part There is of the ancient Niter found upon the superficies of old Walls exposed to the humidity but particularly in Cellars and deep Caves and in covered Vaults it resembles perfectly a certain Brine or white Gelly or fine Meal or in more proper speaking fine Sugar and is many times white as Snow and this thus had the vertues are to be commended which I my self have taken the pains to collect in the imitation of many others which I have often seen which if now it be desired to prepare this Salt according to the method of our Art It will be congealed into small little long Christals like Isicles and it will be like that of the Ancients But as 't is impossible to find so great a quantity as the continual use doth consume and necessity doth excite to this day for the supply of all Wars which have been great and in few years consumed many great and vast places of the Universe We are therefore constrained to this new subject and are forced even to study and invent in these latter ages a new way to supply the want of the former which being made with much labour and industry from the bowels of the Earth and then purified and washed divers times to separate it from its more gross and Terrestrial parts and taken from its first crudity that its may shew its likeness of its Mother it is in the end perfectly purified and brought to such a height that it differs nothing to he of the same form and vertue of the ancient Salt-Peter Wherefore if I may be admitted to speak my thoughts upon it I shall say openly and plainly leaving none in doubt the Ancients did indeed find natural growing Niter which came out of it self at the tops of Rocks filling the clefts and holes and there condensing into small Icicles it hardens and petrefies This Niter is natural but since Art is the Imitator of Nature as 't is allowed by all then you may not think it strange if we can by a little of her aid and by force of industry attain to the perfection of her productions nay if I may be bold to say it such as shall surpass by far the more perfect of her works Do we not daily see an infinite of very principal Works brought to light after a long and painful travel which is not permitted nature to imitate although she did imploy at the best all her secret and full strength to come to perfection It may from hence herefore be concluded that our Salt made by the Art of Fire is such as is every way agreeing with that of the Ancients not any way differing one from the other especially as to those uses we intend here For if according to our method given in the next Chapter I dare affirm in all our uses it will truely imitate the natural but the more if it be purified and purged many times So that at last it will come to be more excellent than the Ancient and natural Salt-Peter which is plainly seen in the ordinary way of purifying Common Salt or Sugar which by Art is so purged that it comes to be far purer and whiter than 't was before in its first natural dress And this we do suppose to be a sufficient argument or reason for us to judge that our Artificial Salt-Peter is not only as good but far more excellent than the natural Which being thus allowed we will add only a few words of the properties of Niter and so pass to its Artificial preparation And first of the spetting quality and noise it makes in the fire which Scaliger would have to be caused by its terrestrity that it holds in it self which we cannot allow of but rather judge otherwise for if the Earthy part were the subject that made it make such noise then the Earth it self might be adjudged to make a far greater noise seeing it is also mixed with this Element and yet we find it cracks not at all being put in the fire therefore by consequence this reason is void Well then is it of its rarity which Aristotle calls 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This cannot pass for a truth since daily experience doth let us see that the Mushrooms or Toad-stools and many other things which are of a most rare thin nature yet make no noise when put upon burning coals Neither is the hardness that is joyned to these more subtil parts the cause of the cracking For we see that the Pumice-stone will not spet nor crack nor make any noise in the fire although it be of a substance sufficiently spungy and hard There must therefore be another thing that must be the cause of this spetting and all the noise that is made by Nitre when it is embraced by the fire The Divine Praeceptor in the 11 Section of his Questions saith that the Salt cracks in the fire because it contains in it much moisture which being attenuated by the fire and rarified in a high degree converts all into Spirits and an Airy nature For in it there is contained more of a Spirit than watery matter which being brought to the fire the two fiery Spirits mutually attract each other and joyning together do become Master of the lesser part the Water for the fire of the Niter being fortified and put into action by the common fire the Water is constrained from its bonds and can stay no longer there but must of a suddain depart and in its way by the violency of its departure overthroweth all such obstacles as come in its way And in this action the external air being strongly and violently agitated by their refraction it breaks with impetuosity or great violence and from thence by consequence follows that hideous and fearful noise which commonly and ordinarily happens in the combustion of Salt-Peter and other Compositions mixed with it whereof Salt-Peter is the greatest part CHAP. IX The way of Preparing Salt-Peter from a Nitrous Earth THe Earth and matter of Salt-Peter is found commonly in great abundance in obscure shadowed places where no Rain nor any fresh water doth
penitrate nor likewise where the Sun by his rayes can communicate his heat it is likewise drawn from Horse dung under Stables and from covered places where great and small Cattle are shut up likewise in such places as men use to piss in or Jaqueses or the like places or in places where has been made great Fights or where has been laid up together many dead Bodies and earth thrown upon them For from thence in few years may much Salt-Peter be drawn I shall declare three several wayes whereby to ground your judgment with more certainty concerning the goodness of the place from whence one would draw the Salt-Peter which is most necessary to be known by all Salt-Peter men or such as intend to mannage these Affairs The first is that such Earth as you suspect to hold Salt-Peter be put upon the Tongue and if it prick a little sharply it is a most certain sign you will not loose your labour in taking it to task but on the contrary if it be not biting or a little corrosive it will not well answer your money and labour in preparing of it The second way to know a good Nitrous Earth is this make a hole in the Earth with a sharp pointed thing either of Wood or Iron and in it put a peece of Iron red hot after having stopt the hole let it stand until it be quite cold then draw it out and if you find a little after about this Iron some Citrine marks inclining a little after to a whiteness you need not doubt that earth but further assure your self 't is very good to put to work The third way is throw a little of that Earth upon burning Coals and if you perceive it make any noise and that it spets in the fire or that clear and shining sparks come from it you may from thence judge that that Earth holds a forcible matter of that nature After you have found a proper Earth to draw Salt-Peter from and that by some of these proofs you have testimony of its goodness and worth let be taken of it a great quantity or as much as you please let it be carried to a place appointed for this purpose then prepare to burn a good quantity of Wood either of Oak Ash Elm Maple or other sorts of hard Wood that you may have Ashes then take two parts of these Ashes one part of quick Lime mix them well and put this mixture by it self for such uses as I shall shew you anon Take then Vessels of Wood or Pipes or Hogsheads cut in two parts for they must be able to hold a good quantity of Water make a hole at the bottom about one or two fingers breadth put into the hole a small wicker thing or you may whelm over it an Earthen Dish after put Rushes all over the bottom not excepting the hole or in its place clean straw this Vessel being thus fitted dispose of it in this manner Set it so that under may stand a lesser Vessel of Wood to receive the Liquor that shall distil down from the upper Vessel after put into the upper Vessel about the height of a hand of this Salt-Peter Earth which has been before for some time dryed in the Air upon this Earth put the height of three or four fingers of the mixture made of Ashes and quick Lime and then again of the Salt-Peter Earth after of the Ashes about the same height as before and continue this fashion putting Earth upon Ashes and Ashes upon Earth until the Vessel be full within a hands breadth at the top to hold the Water that is put in this done put upon it fresh Water as much as shall be necessary viz. so much as must surmount the Earth two or three fingers breadth and look that it pass through all the Earth and run drop by drop through the hole at bottom of the Vessel into the Tub standing under and you shall have a Nitrous Lixivium according to the quantity of Water as you poured into the Vessel which if you judge is too little you must reiterate the infusion and the second time also the water passing through the Earth will carry with it a substance And so the third time This done put all the Lixivium into a Kettle of a sufficient bigness and let it be boyled upon the fire very easily and moderately at first after increase the fire to the consumption of the Liquor or a little more keeping continually skimming it all the time it boyls And when 't is thus consumed pour it into wooden Vessels that are broad and cover them over with Cloaths and let them stand until the pure part Christalize into white Salt and the feculent or more terrestial part settle to the bottom In the mean time continue pouring in of the Lixivium again into the Kettle boyling and skimming it as before and this do until all your Lixivium be boyled up and poured into wooden Vessels to Christalize Then from the wooden Vessels inclining them gently pour all the Lixivium leaving the settling at bottom by it self into your Copper as before and boyl it up again with a good fire until half be consumed or until it begin to thicken or until by putting a little upon a stone or peece of board it do immediately congeal Then take it from the fire and when 't is a little cooled pour it as before into wooden Vessels or Boles and put into each about a hand in height then cover each Vessel with course cloaths put it into a cool place and two or three dayes after you will find your Salt-Peter congealed and thrust together in small Christals like transparent Ice sticking to the sides of the Vessel and likewise upon some sticks for that purpose provided the rinds being taken off and placed in the wooden Vessels before the pouring in of the Liquor get diligently together the Peter as well that which sticks to the sides of the Vessel as that to the sticks in a Vessel of wood proper to receive it and cover it and keep it dry The remaining water you must boyl up as before not forgetting to separate it from its residence Whilst 't is boyling it happens sometimes that the Liquor may rise and boyl over the Cauldron to prevent that danger have in readiness other Lixivium made of three parts of Ashes and one part of quick Lyme as we spoke before in which is dissolved Roch Allum allowing to every hundred weight of Lixivium four pounds of Allum and when it begins to rise pour in a little of this from time to time And by this means you will see that the water that was hastning to come over will fall down and that the common Salt and more terrestrial part will settle to the bottom The Earth remaining in the Wooden Tubs from
whence the salt was drawn must be put in some cover'd place made for that purpose where neither Sun Rain nor any other water may come and there it must be spread all abroad about a foot high Then you must have in readiness Horse dung or the Excrements of all sorts of Beasts great and small and put off this upon the other about the height of three or four foot then take all that was skum'd from the Lixivium in boyling and the water that is left and will not shoot and the bottoms that are left in the wooden Vessel where the Salt-Peter did shoot and throw them away as hurtful and useless upon the Dunghil throw likewise every day or as often as you can the Urine of men and let it lye two years and you shall have your Earth filled with Salt-Peter as before with a greater aboundance You may likewise throw upon your Dunghill the Horns Claws and Hooss of Beast and then from this Earth it will be very easie to draw good Salt-Peter by the method we have prescribed CHAP. X. To Clarifie and Refine Salt-Peter TAke as much Salt-Peter as you please and being put in a Copper pour upon it so much fair water as will dissolve it that is about eight of Water and three of Salt and pour upon the same of the former Lixivium prepared of Ashes Quick-lyme and Roch Allum boyl it upon the fire until all the Salt-Peter be dissolved that being done have in readiness a Vessel of Wood sufficiently big and so disposed that another may stand under the same which must before it be so set be peirced in the middle and the hole covered over with an Earthen Dish Let the uppermost Tub be filled five or six inches with fine clean sand then let the Tub be covered over with a course cloath and pour through the same into your Sand-Tub your dissolved Salt-Peter and so it will distil by little and little into the Vessel which stands under and so passing through the Sand it will be discharged of all its superfluities and will leave the most terrestial part and such as is useless in the Sand which water again put into the Cauldron and boyl it up as formerly until it may be fit to congeal and in the end pour it into wooden long flat Vessels as before and in two or three dayes 't will be shot into Christals as formerly which if you would have purer you must reiterate this work once more or you may put upon this Peter Lyme-water filter it and boyl it up according to Art and it will be pure Salt-Peter may be purified thus put your Salt-Peter in a Vessel of Copper Iron or Vernish't Earth I like a Crucible best which being put to a small fire augment it gradually until all the Salt be melted and boyl'd then take common Sulphur finely pulverised and throw it upon the liquified Salt-Peter which will quickly take fire and burn and by the same means consume all the gross and viscous humours with the terrestrial Salt remaining useless amongst the Salt-Peter before the rectification besides you may reiterate this work by putting on fresh Sulphur many times until such time all the strange humours be quite consumed in the end the Salt-Peter being well melted and well purified pour it upon well polished Marble or Plates of Iron or Copper or glazed Earth and let it cool and you will have a Salt-Peter congealed almost resembling in colour and hardness the true Alabaster CHAP. XI How Salt-Peter Meal is made without any beating for the making of Gun-powder SAlt-Peter well purified must be put in a Kettle upon a furnace over a fire then moderately increase the fire with Bellows to such a degree of heat until it begin to smoak and evaporate until the Salt begin to lose its humidity and obtain a whiteness and so keep continually stirring it with a wooden or Iron Ladle for fear it should return into its pristine form and hereby will be taken away all its fatty greasiness that may be commixt This being done pour so much water into the Kettle as will cover the Salt-Peter and when it shall be dissolved and it has obtained the consistence of a thick Liquor then with a wooden stick or Ladle keep continually stirring it without any intermission until all its humidity be evaporated and all be reduced into most dry white Meal CHAP. XII To make Salt-Peter with the flower of Old Walls of Caves Cellars Vaults c. GAther together a good quantity of this Flower which you may find upon the Surface of Old Walls which are in moist places under the Earth you may also make provision with a certain Salt which sticks to Lyme or upon ruinated Walls which Peter one Sardi a Roman took notice of was alwayes well practised at Bruxells in Brabant as he confesseth in his fifth Book of Artillery Chap. 49. First see how much Salt-Peter matter you have then take one fourth part so much of quick Lyme pour upon it warm water boyl it well and clarifie it according to custom then put your Salt-Peter matter into a Tub with a tap in it and a little Earthen Dish before the hole of the tap within pour into this Tub the Lye and stir it well with a stick until all the Salt Peter be dissolved in the Water then let it distil leisurely into a Vessel that stands under the tap and at last being all dissolved and run out put this water into a Kettle and boyl it over the fire until so much be consumed that the remainder being dropped upon a Tyle-stone or Board do congeal and be of hardness but not too hard for if it be very hard the water is burnt but if too soft not enough When 't is well boyled and scummed take it from the fire and proceed with it as in the tenth and eleventh Chapters CHAP. XIII How to examine the goodness of Salt-Peter PUt upon a Wooden Table or any clean and smooth Board a little Salt-Peter then give fire to it with a live coal and observe these Rules following viz. If it make the same noise in burning as the common Salt doth when it is thrown upon live coals it is a sign it holds yet much common Salt If it hold a thick and fat scum it is a sign 't is fatty and viscous If after the Salt be consumed there resteth yet crass and filthy matter upon the board it is an infallible sign that the Salt contains yet a quantity of earthy matter and so much the more if you see much dregs after the combustion of the Salt-Peter is past and therefore the less powerful and active But by contraries if it render a cleer long flame divided into many streams and that the superficies of the board remain neat without any filth or that it be consumed so that nothing is left but a white clean ash without making much noise or great trembling you may then conclude that the Salt-Peter is good and
diversity of the figures prescribe several thicknesses and meerly again by guess In IV. V. VI. VII VIII IX The upper thickness of the Rampar feet 36. 39. 44. 48. 51. 57. And because Rampars and their Brestworks ought to be Cannon proof I will briefly add how much ground a Shot can penetrate A whole Cannon at 400 feet distance with a Ball of 48 pound shall strike 20 feet deep into firm Earth A Demy-Cannon at the distance of 300 feet with a Ball of 24 l. shall enter 12 feet of firm ground A Field piece at the distance of 200 feet with a Ball of 12. l. shall pass through about 7 feet of firm ground This Goldman reports But if the ground be loose it will penetrate far deeper Dogen denies that 20 feet of any ordinary Earth can be pierced with whole Cannon Shot VI. The lower thickness of the Rampar Fig. 8. The lower thickness of the Rampar is found if to the upper thickness L 3 or B F you add the outward and inward Talu's A B and F E 'T is therefore for the most part six or seven perches that is 72 feet or 84 feet but then the outward Talu E F will be somewhat less than half the height For the Quality of the Figure Authors order again by guess In IV. V. VI. VII VIII IX The lower thickness of the Rampar feet 54. 60. 66. 72. 78. 84. VII Of a Rampar Cased with Stone A Rampar cased with Stone is to be preferr'd before a bare one 1. because it chiefly hinders nocturnal invasions and sudden attempts since the enemy cannot mount it without Ladders the providing of which will be very troublesome and the use as uncertain 2. Because it hinders an open assault since it cannot be attempted but by Ladders which will be to no purpose or by the ruines of the wall thrown down with Mines 3. Because it is a stable and everlasting work whereas a bare Rampar unless it be continually repaired falls to the ground They that disagree reason after this manner 1. That Walls battered with Cannon sooner fall than the bare Earth 2. Their Stones beaten down fill up the Ditch 3. That the pieces or Splinters of the stones flying about will hurt the defendants The first I deny if the Walls be very thick or if as I ordered propt with an earthen Rampar As to the second 't will be the same thing or rather worse in a bare Rampar The third is avoided if you do not raise the wall to the top of the Rampar which is observed in the Wall of Antwerp This inconvenience will be much less if you make the walls of Brick VIII The Brestwork of the Rampar Upon the Rampar there is always a Brestwork built 4 G I K 3 Fig. 8. whose dimensions are these following 1. The inward height T 4 must be always 6 feet that it may conveniently shelter the Souldiers who seldome exceed this measure 2. The outward height 2 K must be feet for so not only the field and the out-Brestwork but also a great part of the Ditch will be defended by the Rampar and you may know how much if you can come to the knowledg of C φ which will be found after this manner as I O is to O K so is I C to C φ. The three first terms are known therefore the fourth C φ must be known Now from C V known take C φ known there will remain φ V also known 3. The inward Talu D I must be always 1 foot there is no need of a greater since it lies from the Enemie and is propt up sufficiently by the Step or Banquet G 4 D neither is it exposed to the feet of men always running up it as the inward side of the Rampar 4. The outward Talu 2 3. must be always 2 feet for since the outward side of the Brestwork K 3 lies in a streight Line with the outward side of the Rampar 3 E and K 2 3 F are parallel 'T is evident that the Triangles 2 K 3 F 3 E are like Triangles Therefore since in the fourth number we ordered the outward Talu of the Rampar E F to be half the height of the Rampar F 3 32 will also be half the height 2 K But 2 K was appointed to be always 4 feet therefore 32 will be always 2 feet 5. The upper thickness O K must be Cannon proof therefore since a whole Cannon will scarce strike through 20 feet of Earth 21 feet may suffice 6. The lower thickness D 3 is composed of the two Talues D T 32 and the upper thickness O K the two Talues taken together make 3 feet and the upper thickness 21 feet so that the lower thickness will be 24 feet And here again our Engineers sport it and for the variety of the Figures alter the thicknesses after this manner In IV. V. VI. VII VIII IX c. Lat. sup 9 11. 12. 15. 17 21 feet Lat. inf 12 14 15 18 20 24 feet The Step or Banquet is built at the foot of all Brestworks on the inside and is 3 feet thick or broad and 1 ½ feet high IX The Terreplein or Walk upon the Rampar The Walk on the Rampar L 4 is found if from the upper thickness of the Rampar L 3 you substract the lower thickness of the Brestwork D 3 and the thickness or breadth of the step D 4 wherefore since D 3 in number 8. was ordered to be 24 feet and D 4 to be 3 feet and in the 6 number L 3 was ordered to be 51 feet or 57 feet there remains for the Walk 24 feet or 30 feet But if you have a mind to sport with the Engineers above it will be In IV. V. VI. VII VIII IX c. The breadth of the Terreplein 21. 22. 25 ½ 27. 28. 30. feet X. The Bank of the Ditch If the Rampar want a Fauss-bray there will be left a Bank-side or a space of Earth 6 feet broad from the feet of the Rampar to the Brink of the Ditch R S. CHAP. IX The Orthographie of the Fauss-bray I. The End and necessity of a Fauss-bray EXperience hath taught us in the taking of many Towns in Holland that so soon as the Out-works are taken in the Moat without any great difficulty will be covered with Galleries and so conquered for the water in the Moat hindering the sallies of the besieged the Builders of the Galleries can only be called from the opposite flanques being safe before by reason of the necessary height of the Rampar which protects the Enemy lying so near under it from the Shot and sight of the besieged Against so deadly an inconvenience the Brestwork 5 N P Q R is built at the foot of the Rampar which is called commonly Fauss-bray or parapet des Rondes And in this alone consists the safety of a Moat or wet Ditch For from this the besiegers are beat off on all sides with Shot almost quite level or Horizontal And
therefore surer to do Execution as I shewed in the eighth chapter number the second Therefore the only End of a Fauss-bray is the defence of a Moat which help a dry ditch doth not stand in need of as shall be taught hereafter II. Its height and Structure Some Architects sharply contend that such a height ought to be given to the Fauss-bray as might make it able to command the Out-works But the defence of the Out-works will better be perform'd by the Rampar it self and as much as you shall add to the height of the Fauss-bray so much will you diminish from the defence of the graft Therefore let it not exceed humane stature The rest of its Structure is the same in all things as that of the Brestwork of the Rampar delivered in the eighth Chapter numb 8. III. The Walk of the Fauss-bray Chemin des Rondes Betwixt the Rampar and the Fauss-bray is left a space E 5 fit for the Besiegers to Plant and Traverse their great Guns which we call the Walk of the Fauss-bray It s greatest breadth is equal to two Rhynland Perches and the least is equal to one When upon occasion a Fauss-bray shall be drawn about the antient Rampar of Cities to be defended only by Musquetiers the breadth of the Walk may be taken somewhat less than a Perch If you have a mind to proportion it to the Polygons you may order it after this fashion In IV. V. VI. VII VIII IX  The walk of the Fauss-bray with its step or banquet  15. 18. 20. 24. 24. 24. c. This Width will serve to plant Guns in but not the biggest IV. The Bankside or Lisier At the foot of the Fauss-bray towards the Ditch is left a space of six feet R S for the strengthning and keeping up of the work least any of the Earth should fall into the Ditch CHAP. X. I. Whether a dry Ditch or Graft be better than a Moat THere is not a question more frequent amongst Engineers and many now prefer the dry one The inconveniences of a Moat are these it keeps the besieged in like Prisoners that they cannot sally out upon the Enemy unless a Covert way and Out-brestwork be rais'd beyond it at very great expences And when the Out-brestwork shall be taken it cannot defend it self since there is no going on it but by little boats Therefore the Galleries are easily brought over the Moat unto the Rampar as Experience hath often taught the Hollanders the water hindring the besieged that they cannot run down into the Ditch with handy blows to throw down the Fatal Engine This defect however is supplied by building a Fauss-bray Ravelins and Half-moons at vast expences and the entertainment of a far greater Garrison Therefore a Moat is both of it self weak and keeps the Towns-men in like Prisoners so that they cannot come to beat off the Enemy any other way than by firing at a distance though they see him spring his Mines and bring the last destruction to the Town besides the Fauss-bray is built only for the security of the Moat as is the Out-brestwork and the Couvert way and in fine all sorts of Out-works and it requires a far greater number of Souldiers to defend it A dry Ditch safe in its own strength doth not need these chargable Out-works especially an Out-brestwork it never wants For as the Moat keeps in the Souldiers like Prisoners the dry Ditch conveys them safe and unseen on the Enemy Neither have these that sally any need of a Couvert-way since the Ditch can hide them in its own bottom nor have they any need of an Out-brestwork since the out-side of the Ditch it self viz. if it have steps made to it is able to supply the place of an Out-brestwork Nay there is no sort of Out-work required since they are rais'd only to keep the Enemy from the Ditch and Rampar which will be better perform'd by Sallies which may be made safely through the dry Ditch Again a dry Ditch makes an easie and safe retreat for those that sally when they are wholly pursued by the Enemy But a wet Ditch would either exclude or drown them for there is no passage from Out-work to Out-work or from the Out-works to the principal Rampar but what is made by little narrow wooden bridges which can receive but few at a time and if they are crowded too much as commonly in such cases it happens they yield to their weight and are broken As it fell out when Breda was last besieged in the taking of Ginekens Horn-work with the great loss of their stoutest Souldiers perishing in the waters To conclude since a dry Ditch can safely be without Half-moons Ravelins Horn-works and Out-brestworks and all other Out-works or at least may neglect them far safer than a wet Ditch can we must confess that the Town if it were besieged would be defended with a far less Garrison It plainly appear'd at the siege of Mastreicht the sharpest of all the Dutch Sieges how far a dry Ditch is to be prefer'd before a wet one The ditches of the Town being partly wet partly dry the Prince of Orange consulted with his Captains which was best to fall upon who resolved to attempt the dry one but the taking of it was so slow and so difficult that the Prince confess'd his error and resolved after that never to try the taking of a dry Ditch before a wet one That I may omit the rest of the action in this most valiant defence The Townsmen from the Ditch it self brought forth their Mines to blow up the lines of Approaches with such facility and success that the Enemy was forced to spend five weeks to gain a Line of five Perches Then with Skirmishes Works and Countermines they so tired the Dutch that besieged them that the Prince despairing to bring his Line over the dry Ditch was constrain'd to carry a Mine into the Town under the bottom of it which was very near forty feet lower than the level of the Town Notwithstanding 't is to be confess'd the nocturnal attempts and surprises of the Enemy are better kept off by a wet Ditch than by a dry one yet there is great danger from the water it self being once frozen unless the Ice be always broke as appear'd in the taking of Wachtendonch by the Dutch and Philipsbourg by the Emperialists by a surprise in the dark over their Moats that were frozen Whilst these things are controverted on both sides This is my opinion that a dry Ditch is best against open Assaults and the wet one best against Surprises But because all surprises and suddain attempts may be prevented by the care and vigilancy of the Officers and Souldiers but open force no other way but by force it seems to me the dry Ditch is absolutely to be chosen if the nature of the ground will permit it Especially since a great deal of money is spared which otherwise would have been spent in building the Fausse-bray
of powder for the Train reaching the powder in K that putting a match to it you may blow up the Mine at the time appointed As for the Attacque it self which is ordered when the Mine is sprung and the breach made I leave that to the Officers and Souldiers to whom these things belong CHAP. XXIV Of defending Towns 1. THe first beginning is to keep the enemy from the Town as far off and as long as you can Therefore whatsoever without the works can put a stop to the Enemy the Besiegers must possess and defend as long as they can 2. They must use all their endeavour to hinder the approaches of the Enemy therefore let them sally frequently but warily least they fall into snares to the irreparable loss of the Town and rout and kill the Pioneers and Souldiers Let them throw down the Lines that are finish'd and if they cannot carry away their Guns they must spike them up by driving Nails in their Touch-holes 3. Those outward works which they can keep no longer must be retrenched see what we said before of Retrenchments but if they are utterly like to be lost they must be blow'n up together with those that possess them 4. The sapping of the out-brestwork must be intercepted by a counter and transverse Sappe 5. The filling of the Ditch and the building of the Gallery must be hindered at a distance by the continual firing of Musquets great Guns hand Granadoes and other fireworks nor is there any other way if the Ditch be full of water But if the Ditch be dry then they must fall upon the builders of the Gallery with handy-stroaks as well as with all that which I declared above And the Gallery it self must either be destroyed by fire or blown up with a Mine 6. But if notwithstanding all this the force of the Enemy prevailing the Gallery is brought over to the Bulwork and the Bulwork it self be undermined Against this plague no remedy remains but to find out the place of the Mine To do this they use several practises Some by the motion of Pease leaping on a Drum-head well braced do conjecture at the place of their digging others boaring a very long Augur into the ground suspected and applying their ear to it think to hear the stroakes of their digging others use other ways to discover it The most certain way is by countermining to search the foundation of the Bulwork The Mine being found the powder must be carried out but if the streightness of time will not permit it must be wetted and a passage opened for the fire 7. The Bulworks being blown up if the Besieged have no inward works remaining the last refuge is that since they can no longer resist the Enemy with wall and Rampar that they stop his passage with arms and hands as he is breaking in at the breach Which since they are rather the parts of Captains and Souldiers than the Engineers I leave the rest to them and put an end to this treatise FINIS A New Exact and most Expeditious METHOD Of Delineating all manner of FORTIFICATIONS Regular and Irregular As well from the INTERIOR as from the EXTERIOR POLIGONE Being comprehended within the Two Faces or Superficies of a MEDALL LONDON Printed in the Year 1672. A New Exact and most Expeditious METHOD Of Delineating all manner of FORTIFICATIONS Regular and Irregular as well from the Interior as from the Exterior Poligon being comprehended within the Two Faces or Superficies of a MEDALL The use of the First Face or Superficies of the MEDALL as represented in Fig. A. THe first Face or Superficies of the Medall serves to delineate all manner of Fortifications from the Base or Exterior Poligon And that 1. From a Pentagon to a Right Line as being the more perfect 2. From a Square to a Pentagon as being the less perfect Figures 1. From a Pentagon to a Right Line Having divided the given Base or Exterior Poligon A A as in Fig. C into two equal parts in the point D from that point D erect a Perpendicular D E of a sufficient length Then take any measure whatsoever be it a Chain Pole Staff or Stake out of a Hedge and mark out 3 or 6 or 9 or 12 or 15 or 18 or 21 or 24 or 27 or 30 Lengths upon the Line A D in the point B from which raise a Perpendicular B C equal to â…“ of A B so is C a visual point through which is to be drawn the Line A F cutting the Perpendicular D E in the point E And E a visual point through which is to be drawn the Line A N. Which done divide the Perpendicular D E into eight equal parts and make either of the Lines E N and E F equal to nine of those parts And then from the points N and F of the Lines A N and A F let fall the Perpendicular N O till it cut the Line A F in the point O. And so likewise the Perpendicular E P till it cut the Line A N in the point P. Lastly joyn the points A O N F P A and so you have A O and A P for the two Faces N O and F P for the two Flancks and N F for the Curtain of that Fortification And observing the same Method from all the Bases the Fortification becomes entire as in Fig. C. 2. From a Square to a Pentagon The Method of delineating from a Square to a Pentagon is the very same with that from a Pentagon to a Right Line Onely instead of marking out three Lengths upon the Half-Base you are to mark out 15 for the Line G H. And instead of 1 you are to allow 4 for the Perpendicular H I. And lastly instead of dividing the Perpendicular K L into eight parts you are to divide it into five and of those parts you are to set off seven both upon the Line L M and upon the Line L R. And this is all the difference as may be clearly seen in Fig. D. The use of the Second Face or Superficies of the MEDALL as represented in Fig. B. THe second Face or Superficies of this Medall directs how to delineate any Fortification by the Interior Poligon And that from a Square to a Right Line For Example The Interior Poligon D F O being given as in Fig. E first draw the Capital Lines A G K T and M Q of a sufficient length Then by the foregoing Directions describe a Fortification inward upon this Interior Poligon as though it were an Exterior Which done continue the Courtains and so you have given you the two Lines A C and K M which you are to divide equally in the points B and L. And from those 2 Points to draw the four Lines B D B F L F and L O As likewise from the two points E and N you are to draw the four Lines E G E H N T and N Q so as E G may be parallel to B D E H to B F
directions given in the former Chapter then with one or two Tackles he bring the Piece to the place desired where it ought to be well fastned in its place for which purpose there is thereunto required Tackles and Britchins and in case of foul weather or that any of the Geer or Tackling be suspected or by my much tumbling every thing hanging upon the Nail for fear any Bolts should give way or draw it is usual to nail down to the Deck with Spikes one Coyne behind each Truck or at least the after Trucks which to great Pieces are commonly dead Trucks so that each Piece may have little or no play But in case any thing should give way in foul weather then with all speed dismount the Piece as soon as possible you can for fear of further mischief for which purpose put in his way as he runs from side to side Rugs Pillows Beds c and stand ready with Crows and Handspikes and with Tackles to hitch or ketch him close and fast to any Ring by the Ship side or such other place as best presents As for the length of the Tackles useful it is usually known thus see how long the Piece is and make the Tackles four times as long and let the Britchin be twice the length of the Piece and something more The manner of drawing of Pieces by Man and Horse you will see in the third Figure CHAP. VII To Grove or Examine the goodness of a Piece of Ordnance whether it be Flawed Hony-Combed Crackt Chamber-bor'd c. With the difference of Common Legitimate and Bastard Pieces IT remains necessary for this Chapter to treat or shew the way to know whether a Piece be serviceable or no which is usually done in the first proof by Powder which we intend not to Write of here having mentioned it before and more will be said when we have shewed the composition of Powder That knowledge of a Piece we here intend is to examine a Piece bought or to be taken into Service whether good or serviceable or out of many Pieces to make choice of the best or such as are freed from holes flaws cracks honycombs c. And first to know if a Piece be free from crack or have holes through take a long stick longer than the Piece made of a Hoop-stick or otherwise slit it at one end so that you may put a short peece of Candle in it then light the Candle and put it into the Piece and so putting it along easily whilst another laying his Eye close to the Piece do go along equally with the Candle until the whole Piece be viewed and so by help of the Light within side the Eye without side will perceive whether there be any Flaws Cracks c. This may be done by the reflection of the Sun beams in at the Muzzle of a Piece by help of a Looking-glass or pollished Steel but many times a Piece may be Flawed or Hony-combed and cannot be discerned through the Piece and then the best way to find them out is thus make the usual search with two or three Springs or in case you have them not bend the Iron point of a Half Pike then put it into the Piece up to the Britch end or bottom of the Cylinder turning it round carefully and gradually as you pluck it out and if there be any Honey-combs Cracks or Flawes the end or bended point of the Half Pike will stick or catch at them To know whether the Piece be Chamber-bor'd take a priming Iron that is small or a piece of Wire bend it a little at the end but so that it may go down at the Touch-hole and put it down so far as it will go Then at the Touch-hole close by the Metal of the Piece make a mark upon the Wire then gently pluck it up upon one side of the Touch-hole until the bended point stop upon the Metal or upper side of the Chamber and then make another mark upon the Wyer just by the Touch-hole then draw out the Wyer and the distance between these two marks is the height of the Chamber or bore of the Piece at Britch take the height of the bore at Muzzle and if this height at Muzzle agree with that taken at the Britch of the Piece then is the Piece full bored but if they differ so much as the difference is sheweth the tapering of the Piece and according to this must your former be made for your Cartredges There is another way to know whether a Piece be Chamber-bor'd or Tapering by the disparting of a Piece which way we shall shew in its proper place where we treat of disparting a Piece of Ordnance Now although we have mentioned in the former Chapters the most usual Pieces of Ordnance yet as I have said there are other Pieces which are longer or shorter which are used and are generally called by the name of Bastard Pieces and they are distinguished from the common Legitimate Pieces thus The Legitimate Pieces have their due length of Chace and are proportioned according to the true height of their bore Bastard Pieces are shorter Chases such as the proportion of their bore doth require and are therefore called Cuts of the same nature of the Piece they agree with in the bore as those of Demi-Culverin bore are called Demi-Culverin Cuts c. There are also Pieces called Extraordinary which are such whose Chaces are longer than is usually for that bore Now we have well and duely understood how not only to make but also to examine and prove a Piece of Ordnance in the next place shall follow their use set down in due order Wherein first 't is necessary for us to treat of the nature of Gun-powder and its various Compositions with the Materials necessary thereunto and afterward shew its use CHAP. VIII Of the Materials used in the Composition of Gun-powder and first we will treat of the Original of Salt-Peter IT is believed by many in these latter times that the Salt-Peter now in use is not the Niter of the Ancients but a new Invention used or found our for the Composition of Powder And that theirs was only a Niter generated by nature or that Salt that is coagulated of it self without any humane Artifice in the Caverns of the Earth from whence they took it which nevertheless they divide into four different Species to wit Armenian Affrican Roman and Egyptian and this Egyptian holds its name by a certain Region in Egypt in which is found great abundance Serapian delivers to us that the places from whence they drew their Niter were all one and the same like them where common Salt is formed in which the water running doth congeal and condenseth like a vulgar Stone from hence came it to be called stonified Salt or Sal-Peter The same Author doth affirm that Niter was found of divers colours viz. White Reddish Livid or Lead-like and all other colours it was able to take he saith likewise that
which is used by Fire-Masters For they put Sulphur Salt-Peter Charcoal all together in an Earthen Pot a certain proportion of each which proportion one to the other they have learned by experimental practice upon which they pour fair fresh water which they boyl upon the fire until all the water is evaporated and the matter become thick then they take it from the fire and dry it in the Sun or in some warm place as a Stove or the like then they pass it through a Hair Sieve and reduce it into small Grains There are others that take these Materials and grind them upon a smooth flat Stone or a smooth Earthen Dish and then having moistned it by their Skill they bring it into Grains which powder brought to this degree of perfection they serve their occasions with as much utillity and profit as if it had been made by the hand of one of the most knowing or skilful Powder-makers in the world It is in my judgment labour lost to speak more of these superficial wayes but come to the order and method which is necessary and usually observed in the preparing of Gun-Powder It shall likewise suffice me to propose in this Chapter some Compositions most excellent and best approved which are these Compositions for Cannon Powder Compositions for Musquet-Powder Compositions for Pistol-powder The first The first The first Salt Peter 100 l. Salt-Peter 100 l. Salt-Peter 100 l. Sulphur 25 Sulphur 18 Sulphur 12 Coals 25 Coals 20 Coals 15 The Second The Second The Second Salt-Peter 100 l. Salt-Peter 100 l. Salt-Peter 100 l. Sulphur 20 Sulphur 15 Sulphur 10 Coals 24 Coals 18 Coals 8 You must first finely powder these compositions or mixtures for Cannon or Musquet Powder and after moisten them with fair fresh water or Vinegar or with Aquavitae but if you will have your Pistol Powder stronger and more violent you ought to stir it up several times whilst t is in the Morter with this following liquor that is a water distilled from Rinds of Oranges Citrons or Lemons by an Alymbeck or any other Chymical Vessel then let all be beaten and well brayed 24. hours and then in the end reduce it into very fine small grains A Liquor for this purpose may likewise be made of twenty parts of Aquavitae and 12 parts of distilled Vinegar made of Whitewine and four parts of Spirit of Salt-Peter and two parts of water of Sal-armoniac and one part of Camphire dissolved in Brandy-wine or reduced into Powder with powdered Sulphur or reduced with Oyl of sweet Almonds To Corn Powder well you must prepare a Sieve with a bottom of thick Parchment made full of round holes then moisten the Powder that must be corned with its water and make it up in Balls as big as Eggs which put into the Sieve and with it put a wooden Bowl and when you have so done sift the Powder so as the Bowl rouling about the Sieve may break the Clods of Powder and make it pass through those little holes into Corns It is observed by Fire-Masters and Gunners that Powder when it is Corned is of much greater force and power than in Meal from hence 't is concluded that powder when 't is put into a Piece of Ordnance ought not to be pressed or beaten home too hard in the Piece for thereby it will loose its form of grains and thereby looseth a great part of its strength that it had and is therefore not able to throw out the Bullet with so great a violence as if the Powder had been gently thrust home to the Britch end CHAP. XVIII Of the several Colours which are to be given to Powder KNow first that all the blackness which you see in Gun-powder comes from the Coal not that this colour is absolutely necessary to be conjoyned to its nature or that it is absolutely necessary to be given to it for its meliorating or making it more vigorous this is not so but by contraryes you may be permitted to give unto it any such colours as you shall think fit without prejudice or hinderance of the Powder and vertue of it For if instead of Coal you take rotten dryed wood or Sawdust well dryed or white paper moistned and dryed in a Stove and powdered or indeed any other thing of a combustible nature or that is well disposed to take fire such as you read hereunder and to this you may add a colour according to your fancie and pleasure and you will infallibly have a Powder that will make the same Effect as the black powder And for this purpose I shall lay down in this Chapter certain mictions with which I served my self many times and therefore known to be experimental truths White Powder Take Salt-Peter six pounds Sulphur one pound of Sawdust of the Elder Tree well dryed and powdered one pound these mixed according to the directions in the former Chapter there will be made a Powder of a white colour Or thus Take Salt-Peter ten pounds of Sulphur one pound of the woody part when the Hemp is taken away one pound c. Or thus Salt-Peter six pounds Sulphur one pound of Tartar calcin'd until it be brought to a whiteness and the Salt extracted for use one Ounce Red Powder Take of Salt-Peter twelve Parts of Sulphur two parts of Amber one part of Red Sanders two parts c. Or Take Salt-Peter eight pounds of Sulphur one pound of dryed powdered Paper boyled up in a Water wherein is Cinaber or Brazil Wood and then again dryed one pound Yellow Powder Take Salt-Peter eight pounds Sulphur one pound Wild or Bastard Saffron boyled in Aqua Vitae after dryed and powdered two pounds c. Green Powder Salt-Peter ten pounds of Sulphur one pound dryed Wood or Saw-dust boyled in Aqua Vitae with some Verditer then dryed and powdered of this two pounds Blew Powder Salt-Peter eight pounds of Sulphur one pound of the Saw-dust of the Teil Wood boyled in Brandy Wine with Indigo and after dryed and powdered one pound CHAP. XIX Still Powder or Powder without Noise THere are several that do Write many strange things concerning this Still Powder or Powder without noise or as some do give it the name Deaf Powder whereof they have treated prolixly the which I think not convenient to do by reason I am loath to tire the Reader with any such Discourse as tends not much to Edification I shall therefore put down certain mixtures which I have known to be more excellent and best approved First way Take Common Powder two pounds Venus Borax one pound these being well powdered mingled and incorporated together must be made up into Corn Powder Second way Take common Powder two pounds Venus Borax one pound of Lapis Calaminaris half a pound of Sal-armoniack half a pound powder and mix them well and make them up into Grains Third way Take common Powder six pounds of Live Moles burnt in an Earthen Pot of Venus Borax half a pound mix them as before
lighted blow it out and there remains none but a burning Coal CHAP. VIII Of certain Antidotes excellent and approved against the burning of Gun-powder Sulphur hot Iron melted Lead and other like accidents drawn from the particular Experiments of Cozimu Nowicz SECTION I. BOyle Hogs grease in common water over a most gentle fire the space of some time then take it from the Fire and let it cool and after expose it to the fair and clear weather three or four nights after having put it into an Earthen pot melt it again upon a small fire and being melted strain it through a Cloath into cold water after wash it many times with good clean and fresh water until it come as white as snow this done put it into a glazed pot to serve you at your occasions The use is thus you must annoint the burnt part as soon as you can and you will see a quick and admirable effect SECT II. Take Plaintain water Oyl of Nuts of Italy of each as much as you please SECT III. Take Mallows water Rose water Plume Allum of each as much as is necessary and mix them well together with the white of an Egg. SECT IV. Take a Lixivium made of Calx Vive and common water add to it a little Oyl of Hempseed Oyl Olive and some whites of Eggs mingle all well together and annoint the burnt place with this Composition All these Oyntments cure burnings without causing any pain These I have often experimented upon my self Some Receipts from divers Authors Take Oyl of Olives Oyl of sweet Almonds Liquid Vernish each one part juice of Onions two parts with these chase the part affected If there be already blisters raised and Ulcerations in the parts this following Oyntment is most excellent Boyle a great quantity of the second Rind of Elder tree in Oyl of Olive then pour it through a Linnen cloath add to it a little after two parts of Cerus or burnt Lead of Lytharge of Gold of each one part put them into a Leaden Morter and then stir them about and mix them so that they become in the form of a Linament Take melted Lard pour it into two Ounces of Morrel water and one Ounce of Oyle of Saturn then mingle them well together this Remedy is soveraign Take the Mucilage of the Roots of Henbane and of the Flowers of Poppies of each one Ounce Salt Peter one Ounce mingle them all with Oyl of Camphire and make a Linament according to Art Or take the juyce of Oynions rosted in embers two Ounces Nut Oyle one Ounce mingle them all well together Or take of the Leaves of Ivy two m. or handfuls well beaten up with Plantain water Oyl Olive one pound make all boyl with four Ounces of good white Wine until the Consumption of the whole Wine at the end of the decoction add Wax as much as is necessary to give him the form and consistency of a Linament Again take old Lard let it be melted over the flame and poured into two Ounces of the juyce of Beets and Rue of the Cream of Milk one Ounce Mucilage of Quince-seeds and Gum Tracanth of each an Ounce and a half mix them well together and make thereof a Linament This remedy is none of the worst we took it from Joseph Quercetanus in libro Sclopetrio CHAP. IX Of Hand Granadoes THe Hand Granadoes respecting their form are Globically or perfectly round and hollow in their interior part in manner of a Sphere they are called Hand Granadoes or Handy Granadoes because they may be grasped in the hand and thrown to the Enemies and if we should dwell upon the denominations of the Latine we may call them as they do Granades Palmares they are commonly of the bigness of a Bullet of Iron of 5 6 and 8 l. they weigh sometimes 1 l. and sometimes one pound and a half some are of two pounds and others of three pounds there is given to these sort of Globes the names of Granadoes by reason of the great resemblance they have with the Fruit Punique which we call Pom-granad for as these do shut up in their rinds a great quantity of grains so our Military Globes are filled with a number of Grains of Powder almost innumerable the which having received the Fire do break into a thousand and a thousand shivers leaping against the Enemy and piercing if it could all such things as it meets opposing its violence They are generally made of Iron or Copper carrying in its Diameter about three Ounces being about the length of a Barly Corn in thickness of Metal they are filled commonly with Gun-Powder and sometimes of other Compositions there is added to its Orifice a small Pipe commonly called a Fuse which is filled with a matter or Composition that is slack or slow in burning but nevertheless very susceptible of the Fire and capable to hold fire some time for fear that it should break in the hands of those that mannage it and intend to throw it There is amongst Fire-Masters accounted three sorts of Hand Granadoes the first and most common are made of Iron others are made of Brass allayed with other Metals in the melting the third sort is of Glass If you cause them to be made of Iron take such as is most fragile and as little wrought as possible you can get if you will cast them of Copper you must allay six pound of Copper with two pounds of Tyn and half a pound of Marcasite or you may put one part of Tyn with three parts of Lattin or of Auricalque Those that are made of Iron are in thickness about the ninth part of the Diameter those that are made of Brass must have one tenth part of the Diameter in thickness of Metal Lastly such which you cause to be made of Glass must have one seventh part of their Diameter in their thickness The largeness of the Orifice in which you must put in your Fuse made of Wood whose upper part must be about 2 9 the Diameter of the Granado and the small hole in the Fuse should have the largeness of 1 18 of the same Diameter the rest of the capacity of the Shell must be filled with well grain'd Powder the length of the Fuse must be about â…” of the Diameter and the top must be broad and a little rounding like a Hemisphere the hollow and inner part of the Fuse must be about 1 9 Diameter at the small or inner end and â…” at the outer end Men do generally fill the void place with Powder ground most subtilly which must be moistned with Gum-water or dissolved glue that it may joyn the better As for the Fuses they must be filled or charged with one of the Compositions hereunder written afterward you must fasten it well and close with Tow or Okham and the Pyrotechnian Lute which the Germans call Kit which is made of four parts of Ship Pitch two parts of Colophonia one part of Terrebinthe and one part of
large rayes to dart from the Fuzees there is accustomed to mix with the Composition some small quantity of powdered Glass grosly beaten filings of Iron Sawdust One may also represent fire of divers colours as we have shewed before in the fifth Chapter but more particularly thus if you put a certain portion of Camphire in your Composition you will see in the Air a certain fire which will appear white pale and of the colour of Milk if you put Greek Pitch which is a light yellow Pitch used in Plaisters called Pix Burgundy it will represent unto you a red flame and of the colour of Brass if you put in Sulphur the fire will appear blew if Sal-Armoniack the fire will appear Greenish if from Crude Antimony the flame will be Red Yellowish and of the Colour of Honey if the filings of Ivory be added they will render a Silver-like White and shining flame yet something inclining to a Livid Plumbous colour if the powder of Yellow Amber be added the fire will appear of the same colour with the Citrine lastly if black Pitch be added it will throw forth an obscure smoaky fire or rather a smoak that is black and thick which will darken all the Air. CHAP. XIV Of Odoriferous Aquatick Balls CAuse to be made by a Turner Balls of wood hollow within about the bigness of a Wild Apple which you must fill with some one of these Compositions hereunto annexed and they being all prepared and charged you may throw them into the water after they are lighted but it ought to be done in a Chamber or close place that the fume may be the better kept together and this must be done with some small end of our Match made of prepared Flax or Hemp to the end that the Composition which is shut up in the Globe may take fire with the greater facility The Compositions are these that follow viz. Take Salt-Peter Storax Calamite one Dram Incense one ounce Mastick one ounce Amber half an ounce Civet half an ounce of the Sawings of Juniper wood two ounces of the Sawings of Cypress wood two ounces Oyl of Spike one ounce Make your Composition according to the Art and Method given Or Take of Salt-Peter two ounces of Flower of Brimstone Camphire half an ounce powder of yellow Amber half an ounce Coals of the Teile tree one ounce Flower of Benjamin or Assa sweet half an ounce Let the matters that may be beaten be powdered afterwards well mingled and incorporated together CHAP. XV. Compositions to Charge Globes or Balls that will burn as well under as above water FIrst take Salt-Peter reduced into fine meal 16 l. Sulphur 4 l. of the sawings of wood which hath been first boyled in a Nitrous water and afterwards well dryed 4 l. Of good Corned powder half a pound of the powder of Ivory 4 ounces Or thus Salt-Peter 6 l. Sulphur 3 l. of beaten powder 1 l. Filings of Iron 2 l. of Burgundy pitch half a pound Or thus Salt-Peter 24 l. of beaten powder 4 l. Sulphur 12 l. of Sawdust 8 l. of yellow Amber half a pound of Glass beaten in gross powder half a pound of Camphire half a pound For that which concerns the manner of preparing all these Compositions it differs nothing from what we have prescribed in the making of Rockets only 't is not necessary that the materials be so subtilly beaten powdered nor sifted as for those Fuzees but nevertheless to be well mixed one among another Care must be taken that they be not too dry when you charge the Globes or Balls and for that purpose they may be moistned with Linseed-oyl Oyl of Olives Petrole Hemp-seed Nuts or any other fatty humour that is receptible of fire Note that amongst all these Compositions of matters that will burn in the water which I have here proposed from my own particular experience every one may make them as pleaseth himself best provided he always take the materials in proportion one to the other as they ought But nevertheless I shall counsel you to experience from time to time your Compositions for the greater surety before you expose them to the publick view of the world It is also amongst the rest very necessary that you learn the force and strength of every material you put into the Compositions whereby you may at your pleasure know how to alter and vary your proportion as you shall judg fit CHAP. XVI Of Stars and fiery Sparks called by the Germans Stern-veuer and Veuerputzen I Have shewed the Composition of Stars in Chap. 5. I have also shewed the way of making them up and their use and also I have shewed the manner of giving to them various Colours as in the 22 Rule of the 13 Chapter where I had an intent to say no more of these things But finding in Master Cazimier's Artillery these Compositions which I judge may prove very excellent therefore I thought good to insert them that I might leave out nothing that might make more perfect any thing we treat of First you must know that between fiery Sparks and Stars there is this difference that the Stars are greater and are not so soon consumed by the fire as the Sparks are but do subsist longer in the Air and do shine with greater substance and with such a light that by reason of their great splendor they are in some manner comparable with the Stars in the Heavens They are prepared according to the following Method Take Salt-Peter half a pound Sulphur two ounces Yellow Amber powdered one Dram Antimony Crude one Dram of beaten Powder three Drams Or Take Sulphur two ounces and a half Salt-Peter four ounces Powder subtilly powdered four ounces Olibanum Mastick Christal Mercury sublimate of each four ounces White Amber one ounce Camphire one ounce Antimony and Orpiment half an ounce All these materials being well beaten and well sifted they must be mixt together with a little Glue or gum-Gum-water made with Gum-Arabick or Tragacant then make them into small Balls about the bigness of a Bean or small Nut which being dryed in the Sun or in a Pan by the fire may be kept in a convenient place for such uses as we have spoken of in the fifth Chapter of this Book You must only remember that when you would put them into Rockets or Recreative Balls they must be covered on all sides with prepared Tow of which we have shewed the way of preparing in the seventh Chapter of the first Part of our Fire-works Sometimes Fire-Masters are aecustomed to take in the places of these little Balls a certain proportion of melted matters of which we have spoken in the first Part of Fire-works But if these do not please you by reason of their swarthy colour but you rather desire to see them yellow or inclining somewhat to white then take of Gum-Arabick or Tragacant four ounces powder it and pass it through a Sieve of Camphire dissolved in Aqua-vitae two ounces Salt-Peter a pound and a