Leadon Leadon court and there taking in one rill that commeth from Linton by Areknoll and another beneath it from Tainton by Rudford it falleth into the said branch on the right side before it come at Glocester The Sauerne therefore being past Glocester it méeteth with a litle rill on the right hand and thence holding on his course by Elmore Minsterworth Longneie to Framilode it receiueth yer it come at this latter the Strowd brooke which rising not farre from Side goeth by Massade Edgeworth Frampton Strowd and receiuing there a water that commeth from Panneswijc Lodge by Pittescombe on the one side and another from Radbridge on the other it prosecuteth his voiage to Stone house Eslington white Misen so toward Framilode where the said Strowd dooth fall into the Sauerne After the fall of Strowd the Sauerne goeth from thence to Newenham and Arlingham and soone after receiuing a water on each side whereof one commeth from Uleie by Cham and Chambridge the other by Blackneie and Catcombe it goeth foorth till it méet with another water on ech side whereof that on the English halfe is forked so that one head thereof is to be found about Boxwell the other at Horton and méeting aboue Tortworthie they run by Stone and Barkeleie castell and so into the Sauerne That on the Welsh halfe is named Newarne which coÌ„meth from the forrest of Deane and so into the Sauerne Of such waters as fall into the sea in compasse of the Iland betweene the Sauerne aâ—d the Humber Chap. 14. THe Sauerne being thus described it resteth that I go forward with the names of those that lie vpon the coast of Southwales making my entrie at the ferrie ouer betweene Aust in Glocestershire and a village on the further banke of Sauerne not farre from Tarendacus chappell in the mouth of the riuer Wie which ferrie is about three miles ouer saith Leland or else my memorie dooth faile me This riuer Guie or Wie beginneth as I said before on the side of the hilles where the Sauerne dooth arise and passing through Wenceland that is southeast by Raiader Guie to Buelt where the Irwon meeteth withall it goeth to Glasburie Hereford Monmouth and finallie into the Sauerne sea at Chepstow for so they call Monhafren which seuereth Wales from Summersetshire Deuonshire Cornewall as for the Rhidoll which is the third sister it hath the shortest course of all for it runneth northward and into the sea at Aberistwith which is not farre off as the writers doo report Leland writing of this riuer Guie or Wie saith thus The Wie goeth thorough all Herefordshire by Bradwarden castell belonging to sir Richard Uehan and so to Hereford east thence eight miles to Rosse a market towne in Herefordshire and in this riuer be vmbers otherwise called grailings It is also found by common experience that the salmon of this riuer is in season when the like fish to be found in all other riuers is abandoned and out of vse wherof we of the east parts doo not a little maruell But let vs not staie vpon these descriptions sith an other is come to my hand more exact than either of these The Guie therefore riseth out of the blacke mounteines of Wales out of which the Sauerne springeth in Radnorshire and comming by Lhangerike and Raiadargoie it receiueth one rill from the west called Darnoll and another from by northeast comming by saint Harmon Thence it goeth to Lhanuthell and in the waie betwixt Raiader and Lhanuthell it ioineth with the Elland whose head is neere to Comerrstwith and taketh likewise into him the Clardwen that diuideth for a season Radnorshire from Brecknoch which Clardwen is likewise increased by the Clarthie within thrée miles of his head and lesse hauing his course from southwest hillie soile adiacent From Lhanuthell it goeth west of Dissart where it receiueth the Ithan a riuer rising aboue Lhanibister and from whence it runneth to Landwie and Lambaderne vawr beneath which it crosseth a water on ech side whereof that on the right hand consisteth on the Dulesse and the Cluedoch after their confluence the other hight Lomaron whose head is aboue Lanihangle and in the forrest of Blethwag After these confluences it runneth on crinkeling in strange manner vnder the name of Ithor till it come to Dissart taking in the Hawie on the left side yer it come there and then into the Wie on the north side which directeth his course further to Bealt where it receiueth the Yrwon a notable streame descending from the hilles aboue Lanihangle Abergwessen and thence comming downe by Lanurid Lang marsh Lanauan Uechan Langantan and so to Beth or Bealt being inlarged by the waie with sundrie faire waters as the Weuereie whose head is about Lanauan moore the Dulasse or as some call it the Dowlasse that commeth from the hilles west of the head of Weuereie The Comarch whose head and course is west of the Dowlasse on the north side and likewise by two other on the southwest and Dilasse from by southwest which last rehearsed falleth into him halfe a mile and more aboue the influence of the Comarch which lieth on the other side After this our Yrwon goeth to Lhanuareth where it crosseth the Dehon on the southwest side then to Aberedwie and there receiueth the Edwie on the northeast which ariseth in the hilles aboue Botins chappell and commeth downe by Crigend and Lanhaderne thence the Guie goeth on to Lanstephan and there or a little aboue taketh in the Machaweie that commeth by castell Paine and so going on in processe of time with the Leuenni whereof Leland in his commentaries doth write as here insueth The Leuenni otherwise called the Euer or Euerie is a farre streame rising in Welch Talgarth hard by Blaine Leuenni among the Atterill hilles from whence it goeth to Brecknoch mere which is two miles long and a mile broad and where men doo fish in Vniligneis or botes of one peece as they doo in Lhin Seuathan which is foure miles from Brecknoch Finallie bringing great store of red sand withall and there with the Brennich water that hath his originall issue at Mennith gader and is increased with the Trufrin it falleth into the Wie aboue Glesbiriâ— three miles from Haie at a place that of the onelie fall of this brooke is named Aberlenenni after this the Guie Being come to Haie a pretie towne where much Romane coine is found which they call Iewes monie and after it hath passed or crossed a little brooke which commeth from Lanigon it meeteth with the Dulesse that commeth also from the Atterill by Kersop and from thence goeth to Clifford castell being now entred into Herefordshire and leauing Radnor wherevnto it hath for a long course béene march then to the Whitneies Winferton Letton Bradwarden Broberie Monington Biford Bridgesalers Eaton Brinton and Hereford
or graie linets bulfinshes goldfinshes washtailes cheriecrackers yellowhamers felfares c but I should then spend more time vpon them than is conuenient Neither will I speake of our costlie and curious auiaries dailie made for the better hearing of their melodie and obseruation of their natures but I cease also to go anie further in these things hauing as I thinke said inough alreadie of these that I haue named Of fish vsuallie taken vpon our coasts Cap. 3. I Haue in my description of waters as occasion hath serued intreated of the names of some of the seuerall fishes which are commonlie to bée found in our riuers Neuerthelesse as euerie water hath a sundrie mixture and therefore is not stored with euerie kind so there is almost no house euen of the meanest bowres which haue not one or mo ponds or holes made for reseruation of water vnstored with some of them as with tench carpe breame roch dace eeles or such like as will liue and bréed togither Certes it is not possible for me to deliuer the names of all such kinds of fishes as our riuers are found to beare yet least I should séeme iniurious to the reader in not deliuering so manie of them as haue béene brought to my knowledge I will not let to set them downe as they doo come to mind Besides the salmons therefore which are not to be taken from the middest of September to the middest of Nouember and are verie plentifull in our greatest riuers as their yoong store are not to be touched from mid Aprill vnto Midsummer we haue the trout barbell graile powt cheuin pike goodgeon smelt perch menan shrimpes creuises lamprieies and such like whose preseruation is prouided for by verie sharpe lawes not onelie in our riuers but also in plashes or lakes and ponds which otherwise would bring small profit to the owners and doo much harme by continuall maintenance of idle persons who would spend their whole times vpon their bankes not coueting to labour with their hands nor follow anie good trade Of all these there are none more preiudiciall to their neighbours that dwell in the same water than the pike and éele which commonlie deuoure such fish or frie and spawne as they may get and come by Neuerthelesse the pike is fréend vnto the tench as to his leach surgeon For when the fishmonger hath opened his side and laid out his riuet and fat vnto the buier for the better vtterance of his ware and can not make him away at that present he laieth the same againe into the proper place and sowing vp the wound he restoreth him to the pond where tenches are who neuer cease to sucke and licke his greeued place till they haue restored him to health and made him readie to come againe to the stall when his turne shall come about I might here make report how the pike carpe and some other of our riuer fishes are sold by inches of cleane fish from the eies or gilles to the crotch of the tailes but it is needlesse also how the pike as he ageth receiueth diuerse names as from a frie to a gilthed from a gilthed to a pod from a pod to a iacke from a iacke to a pickerell from a pickerell to a pike and last of all to a luce also that a salmon is the first yeare a grauellin and commonlie so big as an herring the second a salmon peale the third a pug and the fourth a salmon but this is in like sort vnnecessarie I might finallie tell you how that in fennie riuers sides if you cut a turffe and laie it with the grasse downewards vpon the earth in such sort as the water may touch it as it passeth by you shall haue a brood of éeles it would seeme a wonder and yet it is beleeued with no lesse assurance of some than that an horse haire laid in a pale full of the like water will in short time stirre and become a liuing creature But sith the certeintie of these things is rather prooued by few than the certeintie of them knowne vnto manie I let it passe at this time Neuerthelesse this is generallie obserued in the maintenance of frie so well in riuers as in ponds that in the time of spawne we vse to throw in faggots made of willow and sallow and now and then of bushes for want of the other whereby such spawne as falleth into the same is preserued and kept from the pike perch éele and other fish of which the carpe also will féed vpon his owne and thereby hinder the store and increase of proper kind Some vse in euerie fift or seauenth yeere to laie their great ponds drie for all the summer time to the end they may gather grasse and a thin swart for the fish to feed vpon and afterwards store them with bréeders after the water be let of new againe into them finallie when they haue spawned they draw out the bréeders leauing not aboue foure or six behind euen in the greatest ponds by meanes whereof the rest doo prosper the better and this obseruation is most vsed in carpe and breame as for perch a delicate fish it prospereth euerie where I meane so well in ponds as riuers and also in motes and pittes as I doo know by experience though their bottoms be but claie More would I write of our fresh fish if anie more were needfull wherefore I will now turne ouer vnto such of the salt water as are taken vpon out coasts As our foules therefore haue their seasons so likewise haue all our sorts of sea fish whereby it commeth to passe that none or at the leastwise verie few of them are to be had at all times Neuerthelesse the seas that inuiron our coasts are of all other most plentifull for as by reason of their depth they are a great succour so our low shores minister great plentie of food vnto the fish that come thereto no place being void or barren either through want of food for them or the falles of filthie riuers which naturallie annoie them In December therefore and Ianuarie we commonlie abound in herring and red fish as rochet and gurnard In Februarie and March we féed on plaice trowts turbut muskles c. In Aprill and Maie with makrell and cockles In Iune and Iulie with conger In August and September with haddocke and herring and the two moneths insuing with the same as also thornbacke and reigh of all sorts all which are the most vsuall and wherewith our common sort are best of all refreshed For mine owne part I am greatlie acquainted neither with the seasons nor yet with the fish it selfe and therefore if I should take vpon me to describe or speake of either of them absolutelie I should enterprise more than I am able to performe and go in hand with a greater matter than I can well bring about It shall suffice therefore to declare what sorts of fishes I haue most often séene to the end I may not
of the I le of Manaw a bishops see was erected in the old monasterie of Columbus whereby the iurisdiction of those Iles was still mainteined and continued Certes there remaine yet in this Iland the old burials apperteinâ—ng to the most noble families that had dwelled in the west Iles but thrée aboue other are accompted the most notable which haue little houses builded vpon them That in the middest hath a stone whereon is written Tumuli regum Scotiae The burials of the kings of Scotland for as they saie fourtie eight of them were there interred Another is intituled with these words The burials of the kings of Ireland bicause foure of them lie in that place The third hath these words written thereon The graues of the kings of Norwaie for there eight of them were buried also and all through a fond suspicion conceiued of the merits of Columbus Howbeit in processe of time when Malcolme Cammor had erected his abbeie at Donfermeling he gaue occasion to manie of his successors to be interred there About this Iland there lie six other Iles dispersed small in quantitie but not altogither barren sometimes giuen by the kings of Scotland and lords of the Iles vnto the abbeie of saint Columbus of which the Soa albeit that it yeeld competent pasturage for shéepe yet is it more commodious by such egs as the great plentie of wildfoule there breeding doo laie within the same Then is there the I le of Shrewes or of women as the more sober heads doo call it Also Rudan next vnto that the Rering There is also the Shen halfe a mile from Mula whose bankes doo swarme with conies it hath also a parish church but most of the inhabitants doo liue and dwell in Mula There is also the Eorse or the Arse and all these belong vnto saint Columbus abbeie Two miles from Arse is the Olue an Iland fiue miles in length and sufficientlie stored with corne and grasse not without a good hauen for ships to lie and harbor in There is also the Colfans an Iland fruitfull inough and full of cornell trées There is not far off also the Gomater Stafa the two Kerneburgs and the Mosse I le in the old Brittish speech called Monad that is to saie Mosse The soile of it is verie blacke bicause of the corruption putrefaction of such woods as haue rotted thereon wherevpon also no small plentie of mosse is bred and ingendered The people in like maner make their fire of the said earth which is fullie so good as our English turffe There is also the Long six miles further toward the west Tirreie which is eight miles in length and thrée in breadth of all other one of the most plentifull for all kinds of commodities for it beareth corne cattell fish and seafowle aboundantlie It hath also a well of fresh water a castell and a verie good hauen for great vessels to lie at safegard in Two miles from this also is the Gun and the Coll two miles also from the Gun Then passed we by the Calfe a verie wooddie Iland the foure gréene Iles the two glasse or skie Ilands the Ardan the I le of woolfes then the great Iland which reacheth from the east into the west is sixteene miles in length and six in breadth full of mounteins and swelling woods and for asmuch as it is not much inhabited the seafoules laie great plentie of egs there whereof such as will may gather what number them listeth Upon the high cliffes and rocks also the Soland géefe are taken verie plentifullie Beyond this about foure miles also is the Ile of horsses and a little from that the hog Iland which is not altogither vnfruitfull There is a falcon which of custome bréedeth there and therevnto it is not without a conuenient hauen Not farre off also is the Canna and the Egga little Iles but the later full of Soland géefe Likewise the Sobratill more apt to hunt in than méet for anie other commoditie that is to be reaped thereby After this we come to the Skie the greatest Ile about all Scotland for it is two and fortie miles long and somewhere eight in some places twelue miles broad it is moreouer verie hillie which hilles are therevnto loaden with great store of wood as the woods are with pasture the fields with corne and cattell and besides all other commodities with no small heards of mares whereby they raise great aduantage and commoditie It hath fiue riuers verie much abounding with salmons and other fresh streams not altogither void of that prouision It is inuironed also with manie baies wherein great plentie of herrings is taken in time of the yéere It hath also a noble poole of fresh water fiue castels and sundrie townes as Aie S. Iohns Dunwegen S. Nicholas c. The old Scots called it Skianacha that is Winged but now named Skie There lie certeine small Ilands about this also as Rausa a batable soile for corne gras Conie Iland full of woods and conies Paba a theeuish Iland in whose woods théeues do lurke to rob such as passe by them Scalpe I le which is full of deere Crowling wherein is verie good harbour for ships Rarsa full of béechen woods and stags being in length seuen miles and two in breadth The Ron a woodie Ile and full of heath yet hath it a good hauen which hath a little Iland called Gerloch on the mouth thereof and therein lurke manie théeues There is not farre off from this Ron to wit about six miles also the Flad the Tiulmen Oransa Buie the lesse and Buie the more and fiue other little trifling Iles of whose names I haue no notice After these we come vnto the Ise a pretie fertile Iland to the Oue to the Askoome to the Lindill And foure score miles from the Skie towards the west to the Ling the Gigarmen the Berner the Magle the Pable the Flab the Scarpe the Sander the Uateras which later hath a noble hauen for great ships beside sundrie other commodities and these nine last rehearsed are vnder the dominion of the bishop of the Iles. After this we come to the Bar an Iland seauen miles in length not vnfruitfull for grasse and corne but the chiefe commoditie thereof lieth by taking of herrings which are there to be had abundantlie In one baie of this Iland there lieth an Islet and therein standeth a strong castell In the north part hereof also is an hill which beareth good grasse from the foot to the top and out of that riseth a spring which running to the sea doth carrie withall a kind of creature not yet perfectlie formed which some do liken vnto cockels and vpon the shore where the water falleth into the sea they take vp a kind of shelfish when the water is gone which they suppose to be ingendred or increased after this manner Betwéene the Barre and the Uisse lie also these Ilands Orbaus Oue
Hakerset Warlang Flad the two Baies Haie Helsaie Gigaie Lingaie Fraie Fudaie and Friskaie The Uisse is thirtie miles long and six miles broad and therein are sundrie fresh waters but one especiallie of three miles in length neuerthelesse the sea hath now of late found a waie into it so that it cannot be kept off with a banke of three score foot but now and then it will flowe into the same and leaue sea-fish behind it in the lake There is also a fish bred therein almost like vnto a salmon sauing that it hath a white bellie a blacke backe and is altogither without scales it is likewise a great harbour for théeues and pirats Eight miles beyond this lieth the Helscher appertinent to the nuns of Iona we haue then the Hasker verie plentifullie benefited by seales which are there taken in time of the yéere Thrée score miles from this also is the Hirth whose inhabitants are rude in all good science and religion yet is the Iland verie fruitfull in all things and bringeth foorth shéepe farre greater than are else-where to be found for they are as big as our fallow deare horned like bugles and haue their tailes hanging to the ground He that is owner of this I le sendeth ouer his bailiffe into the same at midsummer to gather in his duties and with him a préest to saie masse and to baptise all the children borne since that time of the yéere precedent or if none will go ouer with him bicause the voiage is dangerous then doth each father take paine to baptise his owne at home Their rents are paid commonlie in dried seales and sea foule All the whole I le is not aboue a mile euerie waie and except thrée mounteines that lie vpon one part of the shore such as dwell in the other Iles can see no part thereof Being past the Uisse we came after to Walaie the Soa the Strome to Pabaie to Barner Ensaie Killiger the two Sagas the Hermodraie Scarfe Grie Ling Gilling Heie Hoie Farlaie great So little So Ise Sein the more Sein the lesse Tarant Slegan Tuom Scarpe Hareie and the seauen holie Ilands which are desert and bréed nothing but a kind of wild shéepe which are often hunted but seldome or neuer eaten For in stéed of flesh they haue nothing but tallow and if anie flesh be it is so vnsauorie that few men care to eate of it except great hunger compell them I suppose that these be the wild sheepe which will not be tamed and bicause of the horrible grenning thereof is taken for the bastard tiger Their haire is betweene the wooll of a sheepe and the haire of a goat resembling both shacked and yet absolutelie like vnto neither of both it maie be also the same beast which Capitolinus calleth Ouis fera shewed in the time of Gordian the emperour albeit that some take the same for the Camelopardalis but hereof I make no warrantise There is also not farre off the Garuell the Lambe the Flad the Kellas the two Bernars the Kirt the two Buies the Uixaie the Pabaie the two Sigrams and the I le of Pigmeies which is so called vpon some probable coniecture for manie little sculs and bones are dailie there found déepe in the ground perfectlie resembling the bodies of children not anie of greater quantities wherby their coniecture in their opinion is the more likelie to be true There is also the Fabill I le Adams I le the I le of Lambes Hulmes Uiccoll Haueraie Cax Era Columbes Ile Tor I le Iffurd Scalpe Flad and the Swet on whose east side is a certeine vault or caue arched ouer a flight shoot in length wherevnto meane ships do vse to runne for harbour with full saile when a tempest ouertaketh them or the raging of the sea in those parts do put them in danger of wrecke Also we passed by the old castell I le which is a pretie and verie commodious plat for fish foule egges corne and pasture There is also the Ile Eust or Eu which is full of wood and a notable harbour for théeues as is also the Grinort likewise the preests Ile which is verie full of sea foule and good pasture The Afull the two Herbrerts to wit the greater and the lesse and the Iles of Horsses and Mertaika and these 8 lie ouer against the baie which is called the Lake Brian After this we go toward the north and come to the Haraie and the Lewis or the Leug both which make in truth but one Iland of thrée score miles in length and sixtéene in breadth being distinguished by no water but by huge woods bounds and limits of the two owners that doo possesse those parts The south part is called Haraie and the whole situate in the Deucalidon sea ouer against the Rosse called Thule by Tacitus wherein are manie lakes and verie pretie villages as lake Erwiâ—n lake Unsalsago but of townes S. Clements Stoie Nois S. Columbane Radmach c. In like sort there are two churches whereof one is dedicated to saint Peter an other to S. Clement beside a monasterie called Roadill The soile also of this I le is indifferent fruitfull but they reape more profit vnder the ground than aboue by digging There is neither woolfe fox nor serpent séene in this Iland yet are there great woods therein which also separate one part from the other Likewise there be plentie of stags but farre lesse in quantitie than ours and in the north part of the Iland also is a riuer which greatlie aboundeth with salmons That part also called Lewisa which is the north half of the I le is well inhabited toward the sea coasts and hath riuers no lesse plentifull for salmon than the other halfe There is also great store of herrings taken whereof the fisher men doo raise great gaine and commoditie and no lesse plentie of sheepe which they doo not sheere but plucke euerie yeere yet is the ground of this part verie heathie and full of mosse and the face thereof verie swart and blacke for the space of a foot in depth through the corruption of such woods as in time past haue rotted on the same And therefore in time of the yeere they conuert it into turffe to burne as néede shall serue and in the yéere after hauing well doonged it in the meane time with slawke of the sea they sowe barleie in the selfe places where the turffes grew and reape verie good corne wherewith they liue and féed Such plentie of whales also are taken in this coast that the verie tithe hath béene knowne in some one yéere to amount vnto seauen and twentie whales of one greatnesse and other This is notable also in this part of the I le that there is a great caue two yards déepe of water when the sea is gone and not aboue foure when it is at the highest ouer which great numbers doo sit of both sexes and ages with hooks and lines and
le so it is nothing inferiour vnto them in aboundance of all kind of fish whereof it is hard to saie which of the three haue either most plentie or greatest varietie if the circumstances be duelie weighed What some other write of the riuers of their countries it skilleth not neither will I as diuerse doo inuent strange things of this noble streame therewith to nobilitate and make it more honorable but this will I in plaine termes affirme that it neither swalloweth vp bastards of the Celtish brood or casteth vp the right begotten that are throwne in without hurt into their mothers lap as Politian fableth of the Rhene Epistiloram lib. 8. epi. 6. nor yéeldeth clots of gold as the Tagus dooth but an infinit plentie of excellent swéet and pleasant fish wherewith such as inhabit néere vnto hir bankes are fed and fullie nourished What should I speake of the fat and swéet salmons dailie taken in this streame and that in such plentie after the time of the smelt be past as no riuer in Europa is able to excéed it But what store also of barbels trouts cheuins pearches smelts breames roches daces gudgings flounders shrimps c are commonlie to be had therein I refer me to them that know by experience better than I by reason of their dailie trade of fishing in the same And albeit it seemeth from time to time to be as it were defrauded in sundrie wise of these hir large commodities by the insatiable auarice of the fishermen yet this famous riuer complaineth commonlie of no want but the more it looseth at one time the more it yéeldeth at another Onelie in carps it séemeth to be scant sith it is not long since that kind of fish was brought ouer into England and but of late to speake of into this streame by the violent rage of sundrie land-flouds that brake open the heads and dams of diuers gentlemens ponds by which means it became somewhat partaker also of this said commoditie whereof earst it had no portion that I could euer heare Oh that this riuer might be spared but euen one yeare from nets c But alas then should manie a poore man be vndoone In the meane time it is lamentable to see how it is and hath béene choked of late with sands and shelues through the penning and wresting of the course of the water for commodities sake But as this is an inconuenience easilie remedied if good order were taken for the redresse thereof so now the fine or paie set vpon the ballaffe sometime freelis giuen to the merchants by patent euen vnto the lands end Iusques au poinct will be another cause of harme vnto this noble streame and all through an aduantage taken at the want of an i in the word ponct which grew through an error committed by an English notarie vnskilfull in the French toong wherein that patent was granted Furthermore the said riuer floweth and filleth all his chanels wise in the daie and night that is in euerie twelue houres once and this ebbing flowing holdeth on for the space of seauentie miles within the maine land the streame or tide being alwaies highest at London when the moone dooth exactlie touch the northeast and south or west points of the heauens of which one is visible the other vnder the earth and not subiect to our sight These tides also differ in their times each one comming latter than other by so manie minuts as passe yer the reuolution and naturall course of the heauens doo reduce and bring about the said planet vnto those hir former places whereby the common difference betwéene one tide and another is found to consist of twentie foure minuts which wanteth but twelue of an whole houre in foure and twentie as experience dooth confirme In like sort we sée by dailie triall that each tide is not of equall heigth and greatnesse For at the full and change of the moone we haue the greatest flouds and such is their ordinarie course that as they diminish from their changes and fuls vnto the first and last quarters so afterwards they increase againe vntill they come to the full and change Sometimes also they rise so high if the wind be at the north or northeast which bringeth in the water with more vehemencie bicause the tide which filleth the chanell commeth from Scotland ward that the Thames ouerfloweth hir banks néere vnto London which hapneth especiallie in the fuls and changes of Ianuarie and Februarie wherein the lower grounds are of custome soonest drowned This order of flowing in like sort is perpetuall so that when the moone is vpon the southwest and north of points then is the water by London at the highest neither doo the tides alter except some rough winds out of the west or southwest doo kéepe backe and checke the streame in his entrance as the east and northeast doo hasten the comming in thereof or else some other extraordinarie occasion put by the ordinarie course of the northerne seas which fill the said riuer by their naturall returne and flowing And that both these doo happen eft among I refer me to such as haue not sildome obserued it as also the sensible chopping in of thrée or foure tides in one naturall daie wherof the vnskilfull doo descant manie things But how so euer these small matters doo fall out and how often soeuer this course of the streame doth happen to be disturbed yet at two seuerall times of the age of the moone the waters returne to their naturall course and limits of time exactlie Polydore saith that this riuer is seldome increased or rather neuer ouerfloweth hir banks by landflouds but he is herein verie much deceiued as it shal be more apparantlie séene hereafter For the more that this riuer is put by of hir right course the more the water must of necessitie swell with the white waters which run downe from the land bicause the passage cannot be so swift and readie in the winding as in the streight course These landflouds also doo greatlie straine the finesse of the streame in so much that after a great landfloud you shall take haddocks with your hands beneath the bridge as they flote aloft vpon the water whose eies are so blinded with the thicknesse of that element that they cannot see where to become and make shift to saue themselues before death take hold of them Otherwise the water of it selfe is very cléere and in comparison next vnto that of the sea which is most subtile and pure of all other as that of great riuers is most excellent in comparison of smaller brookes although Aristotle will haue the salt water to be most grosse bicause a ship will beare a greater burden on the sea than on the fresh water and an eg sinke in this that swimmeth on the other But he may easilie be answered by the quantitie of roome and aboundance of waters in the sea whereby it becommeth of more force to susteine such vessels
receiueth a pretie brooke descending from Frome Selwood west of Brackleie increased with sundrie rils whereof two come out of Selwood forrest and one of them from the Fratrie another out of Long lead parke from Horningsham and the fourth from Cofleie Hence our Frome goeth to Lullington Beckington Farleie castell Bord and Fresh foord and taking in the Silling brooke falleth into the Auon beneath Bradford and east of Freshford From thence going beneath Stoke it receiueth on the left hand a water comming from southwest increased by sundrie brookes whereof one commeth from Camelet by Litleton and Dankerton the other from Stone Eston Midsummer Norton by Welston Rodstocke Wrigleton Foscot and Wellow and there taking in a rill from Phillips Norton it goeth by Clauerton to Hampton and there it méeteth with another water comming from Barthford whose head is at Litleton from whence it runneth by west Kineton to Castell combe where it ioineth with a rill rising by north from Litleton drue and thence commeth south to Slaughtenford Haselburie Box Baithford and so into the Auon which turning plaine west hasteth to Baithwijc and meeting with another in his passage from Caldaston to Bath the Tiuertons and Coston Héere also it taketh in a rill by the waie from Markesburie by Wilmerton and Newton and then going on to Sawford it méeteth with one rill soone west of Northstocke named Swinford and another by Bitton from Durhain by Wike and so procéedeth still holding on his way to Caimsham a towne in Summerset shire so called of Caim an English saint by whose praiers as the countrie once beléeued all the adders snakes and serpents were turned into stone their formes reserued and for a certeine space of ground about the said towne and whereof some store as yet is to be found in those quaries But this miracle is so true as the historie of Hilda or that S. Patrike should chase all venemous creatures out of Italie with his staffe or that maid Radegund should driue the crowes to the pound which did annoie hir corne while she went vnto a chappell to heare sée a masse where it crosseth the Chute which issueth at Winford and goeth by bishops Chue to Penford and there receiueth the Clue comming from Cluton and from thence to Chute so into the Auon The Auon likewise after all these confluences goeth to Briselton and so to Bristow beneath which it receiueth a rill on each side wherof one commeth from about Stoke lodge in Glocestershire being a faire water and running by Acton Frampton Hambroch Stapleton and through Bristow the other by south from Dundreie hill and towne by Bisport and Bedminster and so descending yet lower goeth to Rawneham passage and Clifton then by S. Uincents rocke and Laie next of all to Crocampill and finallie into the sea whither all waters by nature doo resort Beside this water Leland maketh mention of Alderleie brooke which in some ancient records is also called Auon and runneth by Barkeleie In like maner he talketh of Douresleie booke whose principall head is in Douresleie towne howbeit he saith no thing of it more than that it serueth sundrie tucking lucking milles and goeth by Tortworth or foure miles further before it come at the Sauerne Finallie making mention of an excellent quarrie of hard stone about Douresleie he telleth of the Tortworth becke that runneth within a flight shot of Barkeleie towne and falleth on the left hand into Sauerne marches taking with all the Alderleie or Auon except I mistake his meaning which may soone be doone among his confused notes The description of the Sauerne such waters as discharge themselues into the same Chap. 13. THe Sauerne which Ptolomie calleth Sabriana Tacitus Sabrina diuideth England or that part of the Iland which sometime was called Lhoegres from Cambria so called of Camber the second sonne of Brute as our histories doo report But now that region hight Wales of the Germane word Walsh whereby that nation dooth vse to call all strangers without respect of countrie This riuer tooke the name of a certeine ladie called Habren or Hafren base daughter to Locrinus begotten vpon Estrildis daughter to Humber otherwise called Cumbrus or Umar and for which some write Chonibrus king of Scithia that sometime inuaded this Island and was ouerthrowne here in the daies of this Locrinus as shall be shewed at hand although I suppose rather that this ladie was called Ine and that the word Sabrina is compounded of Aber and Ine and the letter S added Propter euphoniam for the mouth or fall of euerie riuer in the British spéech is called Aber whereby Aber Ine is so much to saie as the fall of Ine But let vs returne againe to our discourse of Humber or Umar which is worthie to be remembred For after the death of Locrinus it came to passe that Guendolena his wife ruled the kingdome in the nonage of hir sonne and then getting the said Estrildis and Habren hir daughter into hir hands she drowned them both in this riuer And in perpetuall remembrance of hir husbands disloialtie towards hir she caused the streame to be called Habren of the yoong ladie for which the Romans in processe of time for readinesse and mildnesse of pronunciation wrote Sabrina and we at this time doo pronounce the Sauerne Of the drowning of the said Abren also I find these verses insuing In fluuium praecipitatur Abren Nomen Abren fluuio de virgine nomeneidem Nomine corrupto deinde Sabrina datur But to returne to our Sauerne It falleth into the maine sea betwéene Wales and Cornewall which is and shall be called the Sauerne sea so long as the riuer dooth keepe hir name But as the said streame in length of course bountie of water and depth of chanell commeth farre behind the Thames so for other commodities as trade of merchandize plentie of cariage store of all kind of fish as salmon trouts breames pikerell tench perch c it is nothing at all inferiour or second to the same Finallie there is nothing to be discommended in this riuer but the opennesse thereof in manie places to the weather whereby sundrie perils oft ouertake such as fish or saile in small vessels on the same The head of this noble streame is found in the high mounteines of south Wales called Helennith or Plim limmon in English the blacke mounteins or moore heads from whence also the Wie and the Rhidoll do procéed and therefore these thrée waters are commonlie called the thrée sisters and haue in latitude two and fiftie degrees ten minutes in longitude fiftéene and fiftie as the description inferreth So soone as it is out of the ground it goeth southeastward till it come within a mile of Laundlos where it receiueth a chanell from by south southwest called the Dulas which commeth thereinto on the south side southwest of Lan Idlos It riseth as it should séeme of diuerse heads in the edge of
and beneath the same receiuing the Cledoch that runneth by Kelebebilch and also Neth abbeie where maister Crumwell dwelleth it goeth on by Coitfranke forrest Nethwood Briton ferrie and so into the sea The Tauie riseth in the thickest of the blacke mounteines in Brecknochshire west of Nethuaur and comming downe west of Calwen chappell it receiueth on the east banke a rill named Coiell that runneth thither by Coielburne chappell and being thus vnited the chanell passeth foorth by Istradgunles and then méeting with the Turch or Torch water that cōmeth from the foot of the blacke mounteines and is march to parcell of Caermardinshire it runneth to Langoge Lansamled saint Iohns Swanseis and so into the Baie Being past this we come by another little fall whose water runneth thrée or foure miles yer it come into Swanseie baie but without name Thence we go to the Crimline becke whose description I neither haue nor find anie great want therof Wherfore going about by Oistermont castell and Mumbles point we passe foorth toward the southwest by Penmarch point till we come to Ilston water whose head is not farre within the land and yet as it commeth thorough the woodland and downe by Penmarch castell a rill or two dooth fall into the same Then casting about by Oxwich point we go onward there by and sailing flat north by the Holme hauing passed the Wormeslead and S. Kennets chappell and then northeast by Whitford point we went at length to the Lochar or Loghar or as Lhoyd nameth it the Lichwr whose indraught for a certene space is march betwéene Caermardine and Glamorgan shires It riseth aboue Gwenwie chappell from whence it goeth to Landbea and aboue Bettus receiueth a rill named Amond that entreth thereinto from northeast Being past Bettus it passeth by Laneddie Arthelas bridge and ouer against Landilo Talabout it crosseth from by west the Combwilie by west of Parkreame and afterward the Morlais aboue Langnarch on the same side Then comming to Loghor castell it taketh in on the east side the Lhu whose course is not aboue fiue miles and thence loosing the name of Lochar it is called Burraie as some gesse vntill it come to the sea where it parteth it selfe going on each side of Bachannie Iland a small thing and not worthie for anie thing I read thereof as yet to be particularlie described From this water we passed I saie by Bachannies Ile to the Aberlheddie water whose head being in the hilles aboue Prenacrois it passeth by Lhaneltheie and thence into the sea Then went we to the Dulesse a little rill whose head is not farre from Trinsaren thence by the Pembraie and Calicoit points till we came about to the Wandres or Uendraith mouth whose description is partlie touched alreadie but bicause it is not such as I would with it to be I will here after my owne maner deale somewhat further withall Gwendrath or Uendraith vaur riseth in the lower ground or not far from the hill Renneth Uaur whereon castell Careg standeth and descending by a pretie long course vnder sundrie bridges commeth at the last to Glin then to Capull Lanberie and so vnto the sea being little augmented with influences by the waie Uendraith Uehan riseth a mile higher towards the north than Uendraith Uaur but out of the same soile thence directing his course toward the southwest it goeth by Lancharog Langendarne Capull Langell Bithon Leighdenie Kidwillie and so into the sea about one mile from the fall of Uendraith Uaur The Towie riseth in the mounteines of Elennith foure miles by southeast from Lintiue and two from Lingonon in a moorith ground foure twentie miles from Caermardine and in a forrest called Bishops forrest midwaie betwixt Landwibreuie Landanuerie castell For fish in my opinion this is much better than the Taw or Taffe whose head breedeth no fish but if it be cast into it they turne vp their bellies flote aloft and die out of hand It parteth Brecknoch from Cardigonshire also for a certeine season till it come by the water of Trausnant that falleth thereinto from by cast out of the confins of Brecknoch vnto Pilin capell and so to Istrodefine where it méeteth with the Tothee that commeth thither from Lhinuerwin where it riseth and so through Rescoth forrest vniting it selfe by the waie with the Pescotter which mounting out of the ground in the edge of Cardigonshire runneth along as a limit and march vnto the same till it ioine with the Tothée and both come togither beneath Istrodefine into Towie which we haue now in hand After this confluence it commeth to Lhanuair Awbreie Lanthowell and Lanimphsrie and here it receiueth two waters in one chanell whereof the first is called Brane the other Gutherijc which lieth more southerlie of the two and fall as I said into Towie beneath Landonuereie which runneth on till it méet with the first Dulesse that goeth by Lenurdie then with the Morlais and these on the northwest Certes the Brane is a pretie brooke rising two or thrée miles aboue Capell Newith and descending by Lanbrane and Ustradwalter it méeteth I saie with the Gutherijc whose head is west of Tridcastell in Brecknochshire and thereby it is not a little increased But to proceed with the Towie which being past Lanimphfrie and a rill that méeteth with the same descending from northwest of Lanurdan it taketh in the influences of diuerse waters in one chanell of which the greatest is called Modewie and thereof I find this description The Modewie or as some pronounce it Mosheuie riseth of two heads which ioining aboue Lanihangle the streame runneth on till it meet with the Cledoch on the left hand procéeding also further toward Langadocke it receiueth not far from thence the Sawtheie whose two heads descend from the blacke mounteines or east edge of Carmardineshire as mine information leadeth me After this confluence the second Dulesse dooth meet with the Towie whose head is in the hilles aboue Talthogaie abbeie northwest from Langadocke full fiue miles then comming downe by Landilovaur Newton Dinefar castell and Golden groue it receiueth the third Dulesse from by north that commeth in by Lanihangle and Drislan castell and after that the Cothie whose race is somewhat long and therefore his description not vtterlie to be passed ouer Not farre from the head which is three miles from Landanbreuie vnder the hulke of Blame Icorne a narrow passage and therein manie heaps of stones and somewhat beneath Lana Pinsent chappell it taketh in the Turche becke that runneth thither from aboue Lanacroies thence it goeth to Lansawell Abergorlech Breghuangothie Lannigood and so into Towie which hasting forward by chappell Dewie receiueth the Rauelthie from by north then the Gwilie from northwest whose head is aboue Lanie Pinsent and race by Canwell Eluert Comewilie and Merling hill as I haue
riseth in a mounteine therby and goeth into the sea two miles aboue Duegeuelth Auon Duegeuelth is three miles aboue Conweie which rising in the mounteins a mile off goeth by it selfe into Meneie salt arme On the said shore also lieth Conweie and this riuer dooth run betwixt Penmaine Maur and Penmaine Uehan It riseth about three miles from Penmaclon hils which lie about sixtie miles from Conweie abbeie now dissolued out of a lake called Lin Conweie and on the north and west of this riuer standeth the towne of Conweie which taketh his name thereof This riuer which Ptolomie calleth Toesobius as I take it after the deriuation thereof from the head passeth on the west side by Spittieuan and Tiherio beneath which it taketh in a streame comming from the east out of Denbighshire deriued from thrée heads and of the greatest called Nag Soone after also another and then the third which commeth in from the west by Lanpen Mawr next of all the Leder on the same side which commeth by Dolathelan castell and aboue that from a Lin of the same denomination Beneath this and selfe hand lieth likewise the Ligow or Ligwie proceeding from two lakes that is the Mumber and the Ligow On the right hand as we still descend is the Coid then the Glin a little lower we méet with the Lin Gerioneth and after we be past another on the right side we come to the Perloid which commeth out of Lin Cowlid to the Ygan to the Idulin to the castell Water on the left then to the Melandider on the right without the sight of anie other till we come almost to Conweie where we find a notched streame comming from by west and called Guffen or Gyffin into the same by one chanell on the norrtheast side of the towne beneath Guffin or Gyffin and ouer against Lansanfraid in Denbighshire so farre as I now remember Some part of Carnaruonshire stretcheth also beyond Aber Conweie or the fall of Conweie it is called Ormeshed point wherein also is a rill whose fall into the sea is betwéene Penrin and Landright And thus we haue made an end of the chéefe waters which are to be found in this countie The next is a corner of Denbigh by which we doo as it were step ouer into Flintshire and whose first water is not great yet it commeth from southwest and falleth into the north or Irish sea called Virginium beneath Landilas as the next that commeth south from Bettas dooth the like thrée miles beneath Abergele and is not onelie called Gele as the name it selfe importeth but also noted to take his course through the Canges Hauing thus gone ouer the angle of Denbighshire that lieth betwéene those of Carnaruon and Flint we come next of all vnto Aber Cluide or the fall of Clotha or Glota which is a streame not to be shortlie intreated of It riseth among certeine hilles which lie not far distant from the confines of Merioneth and Denbighshires Southeast from his fall and hauing run foure or fiue miles from the head it commeth about to Darwen taking in the Maniton on the left hand and the Mespin on the right and soone after the third from by-west whose head is not farre from Gloucanocke Beneath Ruthen also it taketh in the Leueneie and after that another and the third all on the right hand and so holdeth on till it méet with the Cluedoch then with the Ystrade which passeth by Whitchurch on the left hand After which we come to the Whéeler on the right and so to his ioining with the Elwie which is beneath S. Asaphes a bishops sée that is inuironed with them both This Elwie riseth aboue Gwitherne beneath Lanuair taketh in the Alode which commeth from lin Alode by Lanfannan and ioineth with him fiue miles beneath Langrenew The Cluda therefore and the Elwie being met the confluence passeth on to the sea by Rutland castell where it taketh in the Sarne which commeth from by east and hath a course almost of sixteene miles From hence we tooke sea toward the Dée mouth and as we passed by the rest of the shore we saw the fall of a little brooke néere Basing Werke of another néere to Flint of the third at Yowleie castell which with his two armes in maner includeth it and the fourth beneath Hawarden hold which in like sort goeth round about the same from whence we came to the Dée where we landed and tooke vp our lodging in Chester In this place also it was no hard matter to deliuer set downe the names of such riuers and streames as are also to be found in Angleseie finding my selfe to haue some leasure and fit opportunitie for the same and imagining a iourneie thither also as vnto the other places mentioned in this description whither as yet it hath not béene my hap to trauell I thought it not amisse to take it also in hand and performe it after this maner Ferrieng therefore ouer out of Carnaruonshire to Beaumarise I went by land without crossing of anie riuer or streame worthie memorie till I came to the Brant which hath his fall not farre from the southest point of that Iland This Brant riseth farre vp in the land not farre from Lauredenell and holding on his course southward to Lanthoniell Uaall it goeth on to Bodoweruch Langainwen and so into the sea The next fall we came vnto was called Maltrath and it is producted by the confluence of two riuers the Geuennie and the Gint who ioine not farre from Langrestoll This also last rehearsed hath his head neere to Penmoneth the other being forked riseth in the hillie soile aboue Tregaion and Langwithlog so that part of the Iland obteineth no small commoditie and benefit by their passage Next vnto this we came vnto the Fraw whose head is neere to Langinewen and passage by Cap Maer after which it falleth into a lake from whence it goeth east of Aberfraw and so into the sea The next riuer hath no name to my knowledge yet hath it a longer course than that which I last described For it riseth two or thrée miles aboue Haneglosse and passing from thence to Treualghmaie after the descent of foure miles it falleth into the sea After this we came to an other which riseth more to Cap legan ferwie and falleth into the sea southeast of the little Iland which is called Ynis Wealt it is namelesse also as the other was and therefore hauing small delight to write thereof we passed ouer the salt créeke by a bridge into Cair Kibie which by the same is as it were cut from the maine Iland and in some respect not vnworthie to be taken for an I le In the north side therefore of Cair Kibie is a little rill or créeke but whether the water thereof be fresh or salt as yet I doo not remember This place being viewed I came backe againe by the aforesaid bridge into the
that runneth thither from Dent towne beneath Sebbar they continue their course as one into the Burbecke from whence it is called Lune From hence it goeth to Burbon chappell where it taketh in another rill comming from by east then to Kirbie Lansdale and aboue Whittenton crosseth a brooke comming from the countie stone by Burros and soone after beneath Tunstall and Greteie which descending from about Ingelborow hill passeth by Twiselton Ingleton Thorneton Burton Wratton and néere Thurland castell toucheth finallie with the Lune which brancheth and soone after vniteth it selfe againe After this also it goeth on toward New parke and receiueth the Wennie and the Hinburne both in one chanell of which this riseth north of the crosse of Greteie and going by Benthams and Roberts hill aboue Wraie taketh in the Rheburne that riseth north of Wulfecrag After this confluence also aboue New parke it maketh his gate by Aughton Laughton Skirton Lancaster Excliffe Awcliffe Soddaie Orton and so into the sea Thus haue you both the descriptions of Lune make your conference or election at your pleasure for I am sworne to neither of them both The next fall is called Docker and peraduenture the same that Leland dooth call the Kerie which is not farre from Wharton where the rich Kitson was borne it riseth north of Docker towne and going by Barwtjc hall it is not increased before it come at the sea where it falleth into the Lune water at Lunesands Next of all we come to Bitham becke which riseth not far from Bitham towne and parke in the hilles where about are great numbers of goates kept and mainteined and by all likelihood resorteth in the end to Linsands Being past this we find a forked arme of the sea called Kensands into the first of which diuerse waters doo run in one chanell as it were from foure principall heads one of them comming from Grarrig hall another frō by west of Whinfield ioining with the first on the east side of Skelmere parke The third called Sprot or Sprota riseth at Sloddale commeth downe by west of Skelmer parke so that these two brookes haue the aforesaid parke betwéene them fall into the fourth east of Barneside not verie farre in sunder The fourth or last called Ken commeth from Kentmers side out of Ken moore in a poole of a mile compasse verie well stored with fish the head whereof as of all the baronie of Kendall is in Westmerland going to Stauelope it taketh in a rill from Chappleton Inges Then leauing Colnehead parke by east it passeth by Barneside to Kendall Helston Sigath Siggeswijc Leuenbridge Milnethorpe and so into the sea Certes this Ken is a pretie déepe riuer and yet not safelie to be aduentured vpon with boates and balingers by reason of rolling stones other huge substances that off annoie trouble the middest of the chanell there The other péece of the forked arme is called Winstar the hed wherof is aboue Winstar chappell going downe almost by Carpmaunsell Netherslake it is not long yer it fall into the sea or sands for all this coast a gulfe from the Ramside point to the Mealenasse is so pestered with sands that it is almost incredible to sée how they increase Those also which inuiron the Kenmouth are named Kensands but such as receiue the descent from the Fosse Winander and Sparke are called Leuesands as I find by sufficient testimonie The mouth or fall of the Dodon also is not farre from this impechment wherefore it is to be thought that these issues will yer long become verie noisome if not choked vp altogither The Winander water riseth about Cimbarlrasestones from whence it goeth to Cangridge where it maketh a méere then to Ambleside and taking in yer it come there two rilles on the left hand and one on the right that commeth by Clapergate it maketh as I take it the greatest méere or fresh water in England for I read it is ten miles in length Finallie comming to one small chanell aboue Newbridge it reacheth not aboue six miles yer fall into the sea There is in like sort a water called the Fosse that riseth néere vnto Arneside and Tillerthwates and goeth foorth by Grisdale Satrethwate Rusland Powbridge Bowth and so falleth with the Winander water into the maine sea On the west side of the Fosse also commeth another through Furnesse felles and from the hilles by north thereof which yer long making the Thurstan lake not far from Hollinhow and going by Bridge end in a narrow chanell passeth foorth by Nibthwaits Blareth Cowlton Sparke bridge and so into the sea Hauing passed the Leuen or Conisands or Conistonesands or Winander fall for all is one I come to the Lew which riseth at Cewike chappell and falleth into the sea beside Plumpton The Rawther descending out of low Furnesse hath two heads whereof one commeth from Penniton the other by Ulmerstone abbeie and ioining both in one chanell they hasten into the sea whither all waters direct their voiage Then come we to another rill southwest of Aldingham descending by Glaiston castell and likewise the fourth that riseth néere Lindell and running by Dawlton castell and Furnesse abbeie not farre from the Barrow head it falleth into the sea ouer against Waueie and Waueie chappell except mine aduertisements misleade me The Dodon which from the head is bound vnto Cumberland and Westmerland commeth from the Shire stone hill bottome and going by Blackehill Southwake S. Iohns Uffaie parke Broughton it falleth into the faltwater betwéene Kirbie and Mallum castell And thus are we now come vnto the Rauenglasse point and well entred into Cumberland countie Comming to Rauenglasse I find hard by the towne a water comming from two heads and both of them in lakes or pooles whereof one issueth out of Denocke or Deuenocke méere and is called Denocke water the other named Eske from Eske poole which runneth by Eskedale Dalegarth and soone after meeting with the Denocke betwéene Mawburthwate and Rauenglasse falleth into the sea On the other side of Rauenglasse also commeth the Mite brooke from Miterdale as I read Then find we another which commeth from the hils and at the first is forked but soone after making a lake they gather againe into a smaller chanell finallie meeting with the Brenge they fall into the sea at Carleton southeast as I wéene of Drig The Cander or as Leland nameth it the Calder commeth out of Copeland forrest by Cander Sellefield and so into the sea Then come we to Euer water descending out of a poole aboue Coswaldhow and thence going by Euerdale it crosseth a water from Arladon and after procéedeth to Egremond S. Iohns and taking in another rill from Hide it is not long yer it méeteth with the sea The next fall is at Moresbie whereof I haue no skill From thence therefore
Grimsdale Kirke Andros Beaumont falleth into the sea beneath the Rowcliffe castell And thus much of the Eden which Leland neuerthelesse describeth after another sort whose words I will not let to set downe here in this place as I find them in his commentaries The Eden after it hath run a pretie space from his head méeteth in time with the Ulse water which is a great brooke in Westmerland and rising aboue Maredale a mile west of Loder it commeth by the late dissolued house of Shappe priorie théee miles from Shappe and by Brampton village into Loder or Lodon Certes this streame within halfe a mile of the head becommeth a great lake for two miles course and afterward waxing narrow againe it runneth foorth in a meane and indifferent bottome The said Eden in like sort receiueth the Aimote about thrée miles beneath Brougham castell and into the same Aimote falleth the Dacor becke alreadie touched which riseth by northwest in Materdale hils foure miles aboue Dacor castell and then going through Dacor parke it runneth by east a good mile lower into Eimote a little beneath Delamaine which standeth on the left side of Dacor In one of his bookes also he saith how Carleill standeth betwéene two streames that is to saie the Deua which commeth thither from by southwest and also the Logus tha descendeth from the southeast He addeth moreouer how the Deua in times past was named Uala or Bala and that of the names of these two Lugibala for Caerleill hath beene deriued c. and thus much out of Leland But where he had the cause of this his coniecture as yet I haue not read Of this am I certeine that I vse the names of most riuers hete and else-where described accordinglie as they are called in my time although I omit not to speake here and there of such as are more ancient where iust occasion mooueth me to remember them for the better vnderstanding of our histories as they doo come to hand Blacke Leuen and white Leuen waters fall into the sea in one chanell and with them the Lamford and the Eske the last confluence being not a full mile from the maine sea The white and blacke Leuen ioining therfore aboue Bucknesse the confluence goeth to Bracken hill Kirkleuenton and at Tomunt water meeteth with the Eske In like sort the Kirsop ioining with the Lidde out of Scotland at Kirsop foot running by Stangerdike side Harlow Hathwater and taking in the Eske aboue the Mote it looseth the former name and is called Eske vntill it come to the sea Hauing thus gone thorough the riuers of England now it resteth that we procéed with those which are to be found vpon the Scotish shore in such order as we best may vntill we haue fetched a compasse about the same and come vnto Barwike whence afterward it shall be easie for vs to make repaire vnto the Thames from which we did set forward in the beginning of our voiage The first riuer that I met withall on the Scotish coast is the Eske after I came past the Solueie which hath his head in the Cheuiot hilles runneth by Kirkinton and falleth into the sea at Borow on the sands This Eske hauing receiued the Ewis falleth into the Solueie first at Atterith After this I passed ouer a little créeke from Kirthell and so to Anand whereof the vallie Anandale dooth séeme to take the name There is also the Nide whereof commeth Nidsdale the Ken the Dée the Crale and the Bladnecke and all these besides diuerse other small rilles of lesse name doo lie vpon the south of Gallowaie On the north side also we haue the Ruan the Arde the Cassile Dune the Burwin the Cluide wherevpon sometime stood the famous citie of Alcluide and whereinto runneth the Carath the Hamell the Dourglesse and the Lame From hence in like maner we came vnto the Leuind mouth wherevnto the Blake on the southwest and the Lomund lake with his fléeting Iles and fish without finnes yet verie holesone dooth séeme to make his issue This lake of Lomund in calme weather ariseth sometimes so high and swelleth with such terrible billowes that it causeth the best marriners of Scotland to abide the leisure of this water before they dare aduenture to hoise vp sailes on hie The like is seene in windie weather but much more perillous There are certeine Iles also in the same which mooue and remooue oftentimes by force of the water but one of them especiallie which otherwise is verie fruitfull for pasturage of cattell Next vnto this is the Leue the Rage the Long the Goile the Heke which for the excéeding greatnesse of their heads are called lakes Then haue we the Robinseie the Foreland the Tarbat the Lean and the Abir wherevnto the Spanseie the Loine the Louth the Arke and the Zefe doo fall there is also the Sell the Zord the Owin the Newisse the Orne the Lang the Drun the Hew the Brun the Kell the Dowr the Faro the Nesse the Herre the Con the Glasse the Maur the Urdall the Fers that commeth out of the Caldell the Fairsoke which two latter lie a little by west of the Orchades and are properlie called riuers bicause they issue onelie from springs but most of the other takes bicause they come from linnes and huge pooles or such low bottomes fed with springs as séeme to haue no accesse but onelie recesse of waters whereof there be manie in Scotland But to procéed Hauing once past Dungisbie head in Cathnesse we shall yer long come to the mouth of the Wifle a prettie streame comming by south of the mounteins called the Maidens pappes Then to the Browre the Clin the Twin whereinto runneth three riuers the Shin the Sillan and Carew the Nesse which beside the plentie of samon found therein is neuer frosen nor suffereth yce to remaine there that is cast into the poole From thence we come vnto the Narding the Finderne the Spaie which receiues the Uine the Fitch the Bulich the Arrian the Leuin and the Bogh from whence we saile vntill we come about the Buquhan head and so to the Downe and d ee which two streames bring forth the greatest samons that are to be he had in Scotland and most plentie of the same Then to the north Eske whereinto the Esmond runneth aboue Brechin the south Eske then the Louen and the Taw which is the finest riuer for water that is in all Scotland and wherevnto most riuers and lakes doo run As Farlake Yrth Goure Loich Cannach Linell Loion Irewer Erne and diuerse other besides small rillets which I did neuer looke vpon Then is there the lake Londors vpon whose mouth saint Andrewes dooth stand
the lake Lewin vnto whose streame two other lakes haue recourse in Fifland and then the Firth or Fortha which some doo call the Pictish and Scotish sea whither the kingdome of the Northumbers was sometime extended and with the riuer last mentioned I meane that commeth from Londors includeth all Fife the said Fortha being full of oisters and all kinds of huge fish that vse to lie in the déepe How manie waters run into the Firth called by Ptolomie Loxa it is not in my power iustlie to declare yet are there both riuers rills lakes that fall into the same as Clacke Alon Dune Kerie Cambell Cumer Tere Man Torkeson Rosham Mushell Blene and diuerse other which I call by these names partlie after information and partlie of such townes as are neere vnto their heads Finallie when we are past the Haie then are we come vnto the Twede whereinto we entred leauing Barwike on the right hand and his appurtenances wherein Halidon hill standeth and conteineth a triangle of so much ground beyond the said riuer as is well néere foure miles in length and thrée miles in bredth in the broad end except mine information doo faile me The Twede which Ptolomie nameth Toualsis or Toesis betwéene which and the Tine the countie of Northumberland is in maner inclosed and watred with sundrie noble riuers is a noble streame and the limes or bound betwéene England Scotland wherby those two kingdomes are now diuided in sunder It riseth about Drimlar in Eusbale or rather out of a faire well as Leland saith standing in the mosse of an hill called Airstane or Harestan in Twede dale ten miles from Pibble and so comming by Pibble Lander Dribiwgh Lelse Warke Norham and Hagarstone it falleth into the sea beneath Barwike as I heare Thus saith Leland But I not contented with this so short a discourse of so long a riuer briefe description of so faire a streame will ad somewhat more of the same concerning his race on the English side and rehearsall of such riuers as fall into it Comming therefore to Ridam it receiueth betwéene that and Carham a becke which descendeth from the hilles that lie by west of Windram Going also from Ridam by Longbridgham on the Scotish side and to Carham it hasteth immediatlie to Warke castell on the English and by Spilaw on the other side then to Cornewall Cald streame and Tilmouth where it receiueth sundrie waters in one botome which is called the Till and whose description insueth here at hand Certes there is no head of anie riuer that is named Till but the issue of the furthest water that commeth hereinto riseth not farre from the head of Uswaie in the Cheuiot hilles where it is called Brennich whereof the kingdome of Brennicia did sometime take the name From thence it goeth to Hartside Ingram Branton Crawleie Hedgeleie Beueleie and Bewije beneath which it receiueth one water comming from Rodham by west and soone after a second descending from the Middletons and so they go as one with the Bromish by Chatton to Fowbreie where they crosse the third water falling downe by north from Howborne by Hescibridge thence to Woller there also taking in a rill that riseth about Middleton hall and runneth by Hardleie Whereleie and the rest afore remembred wherby the water of Bromis is not a little increased and after this latter confluence beneath Woller no more called Bromis but the Till vntill it come at the Twede The Till passing therefore by Wetel and and Dedington méeteth soone after with a faire streame comming from by southwest which most men call the Bowbent or Bobent It riseth on the west side of the Cocklaw hill and from thence hasteth to Hattons beneath the which it ioineth from by southeast with the Hellerborne and then goeth to Pudston Downeham Kilham and a little by north of Newton Kirke and betwéene it and west Newton it taketh in another water called Glin comming from the Cheuiot hilles by Heth poole and from thenseforth runneth on without anie further increase by Copland Euart and so in the Till The Till for his part in like sort after this confluence goeth to Broneridge Fodcastell Catall castell Heaton north of Tâ—mouth into the Twede or by west of Wesell except my memoriâ— dooth faile me After this also our aforesaid water of Twede descendeth to Grotehugh the Newbiggins Norham castell Foord Lungridge crossing the Whitaker on the other side from Scotland beneath Cawmill it runneth to Ordo to Barwike and so into the Ocean leauing as I said so much English ground on the northwest ripe as lieth in manner of a triangle betwéene Cawmils Barwike and Lammeton which as one noteth is no more but two miles and an halfe euerie waie or not much more except he be deceiued Being past this noble streame we came by a rill that descendeth from Bowsden by Barington Then by the second which ariseth betwéene Middleton and Detcham or Dereham and runneth by Eskill and the Rosse next of all to Warnemouth of whose backe water I read as followeth The Warne or Gwerne riseth southwest of Crokelaw and going by Warneford Bradford Spindlestone and Budâ—â— it leaueth Newton on the right hand and so falleth into the Ocean after it hath run almost nine miles from the head within the land and receiued a rill beneath Yessington which commeth downe betwéene Newland and Olchester and hath a bridge beneath the confluence which leadeth ouer the same From Warnemouth we sailed by Bamborow castell and came at last to a fall betweene Bedwell and Newton The maine water that serueth this issue riseth aboue Carleton from the foot of an hill which séemeth to part the head of this and that of Warne in sunder It runneth also by Carleton Tonleie Oxford Brunton and Tuggell and finallie into the sea as to his course apperteineth From this water we went by Dunstanbugh castell vnto the Chalne or Alnemouth which is serued with a pretie riueret called Alne the head whereof riseth in the hils west of Alnham towne and called by Ptolomie Celnius From thense also it runneth by Rile Kile Estington and Whittingham where it crosseth a rill comming from by south and beneath the same the second that descendeth from Eirchild at Brone likewise the third that riseth at Newton and runneth by Edlingham castell and Lemmaton all on the southeast side or right hand and so passeth on further till it meet with the fourth comming from aboue Shipleie from by north after which confluence it goeth to Alnewije then to Denntie receiuing there a rillet from by south and a rill from by north and thence going on to Bilton betweene Ailmouth towne and Wooddon it sweepeth into the Ocean The Cocket is a goodlie riuer the head also thereof is in the roots of Kemblespeth hils from whence it goeth to Whiteside and there meeting
they were also buried and Uortigerne their king apprehended and led awaie as captiue I haue heard that the like are to be séene in Ireland but how true it is as yet I can not learne The report goeth also that these were brought from thence but by what ship on the sea and cariage by land I thinke few men can safelie imagine The third is an ample and large hole vnder the ground which some call Carcer Aeoli but in English Chedderhole whereinto manie men haue entred walked verie farre Howbeit as the passage is large and nothing noâ—some so diuerse that haue aduentured to go into the same could neuer as yet find the end of that waie neither sée anie other thing than pretie riuerets and streames which they often crossed as they went from place to place This Chedder-hole or Chedder rocke is in Summersetshire and thence the said waters run till they méet with the second Ax that riseth in Owkie hole The fourth is no lesse notable than anie of the other For westward vpon certeine hilles a man shall sée the clouds gather togither in faire weather vnto a certeine thicknesse and by and by to spread themselues abroad and water their fields about them as it were vpon the sudden The causes of which dispersion as they are vtterlie vnknowne so manie men coniecture great store of water to be in those hilles verie néere at hand if it were néedfull to be sought for Besides these foure maruelles there is a little rockie I le in Aber Barrie a riueret that falleth into the Sauerne sea called Barrie which hath a rift or clift next the first shore wherevnto if a man doo laie his eare he shall heare such noises as are commonlie made in smiths forges to wit clinking of iron barres beating with hammers blowing of bellowses and such like whereof the superstitious sort doo gather manie toies as the gentiles did in old time of their lame god Uulcans pot The riuer that runneth by Chester changeth hir chanell euerie moneth the cause whereof as yet I can not learne neither dooth it swell by force of anie land-floud but by some vehement wind it oft ouer-runneth hir banks In Snowdonie are two lakes whereof one beareth a moouable Iland which is carried to and fro as the wind bloweth The other hath thrée kinds of fishes in it as eeles trowts and perches but herein resteth the woonder that all those haue but one eie a péece onelie and the same situate in the right side of their heads And this I find to be confirmed also by authors There is a well in the forrest of Gnaresborow whereof the said forrest dooth take the name which water beside that it is cold as Stix in a certeine period of time knowne conuerteth wood flesh leaues of trées and mosse into hard stone without alteration or changing of shape The like also is séene there in frogs wormes and such like liuing creatures as fall into the same and find no readie issue Of this spring also Leland writeth thus A little aboue March but at the further banke of Nide riuer as I came I saw a well of wonderfull nature called Dropping well because the water thereof distilleth out of great rockes hard by into it continuallie which is so cold and thereto of such nature that what thing soeuer falleth out of those rocks into this pit or groweth néere thereto or be cast into it by mans hand it turneth into stone It may be saith he that some sand or other fine ground issueth out with this water from these hard rocks which cleauing vnto those things giueth them in time the forme of stones c. Neere vnto the place where Winburne monasterie sometimes stood also not farre from Bath there is a faire wood whereof if you take anie péece and pitch it into the ground thereabouts or throw it into the water within twelue moneths it will turne into hard stone In part of the hilles east southeast of Alderleie a mile from Kingswood are stones dailie found perfectlie fashioned like cockles and mightie oisters which some dreame haue lien there euer since the floud In the clifts betwéene the Blacke head and Trewardeth baie in Cornwall is a certeine caue where things appeare like images guilded on the sides of the same which I take to be nothing but the shining of the bright ore of coppar and other mettals readie at hand to be found there if anie diligence were vsed Howbeit because it is much maruelled at as a rare thing I doo not thinke it to be vnméet to be placed amongst our woonders Maister Guise had of late and still hath for aught that I know a manor in Glocestershire where certeine okes doo grow whose rootes are verie hard stone And beside this the ground is so fertile there as they saie that if a man hew a stake of anie wood and pitch it into the earth it will grow and take rooting beyond all expectation Siluecester towne also is said to conteine fourescore acres of land within the walles whereof some is corne-ground as Leland saith and the graine which is growing therein dooth come to verie good perfection till it be readie to be cut downe but euen then or about that time it vanisheth away becommeth altogither vnprofitable Is it any woonder thinke you to tell of sundrie causes neere to Browham on the west side of the riuer Aimote wherein are halles chambers and all offices of houshold cut out of the hard rocke If it be then may we increase the number of maruels verie much by a rehearsall of other also For we haue manie of the like as one neere saint Assaphs vpon the banke of Elwie and about the head of Uendrath Uehan in Wales whereinto men haue often entred and walked and yet found nothing but large roomes and sandie ground vnder their féet and other else-where But sith these things are not strange I let them alone and go forward with the rest In the parish of Landsarnam in Wales and in the side of a stonie hill is a place wherein are foure and twentie seats hewen out of the hard rockes but who did cut them and to what end as yet it is not learned As for the huge stone that lieth at Pember in Guitherie parish and of the notable carcasse that is affirmed to lie vnder the same there is no cause to touch it here yet were it well doone to haue it remoued though it were but onlie to sée what it is which the people haue in so great estimation reuerence There is also a poole in Logh Taw among the blacke mounteins in Brecknockshire where as is said is the head of Taw that commeth to Swanseie which hath such a propertie that it will bréed no fish at all if anie be cast into it they die without recouerie but this peraduenture may grow throgh the accidentall corruption of the water rather than the naturall force of the element it selfe There is also a
altogither passe ouer this chapter without the rehersall of something although the whole summe of that which I haue to saie be nothing indeed if the performance of a full discourse hereof be anie thing hardlie required Of fishes therefore as I find fiue sorts the flat the round the long the legged and shelled so the flat are diuided into the smooth scaled and tailed Of the first are the plaice the but the turbut birt floke or sea flounder dorreie dab c. Of the second the soles c. Of the third our chaits maidens kingsons flath and thornbacke whereof the greater be for the most part either dried and carried into other countries or sodden sowsed eaten here at home whilest the lesser be fried or buttered soone after they be taken as prouision not to be kept long for feare of putrifaction Under the round kinds are commonlie comprehended lumps an vglie fish to sight and yet verie delicat in eating if it be kindlie dressed the whiting an old waiter or seruitor in the court the rochet sea breame pirle hake sea trowt gurnard haddocke cod herring pilchard sprat and such like And these are they whereof I haue best knowledge and be commonlie to be had in their times vpon our coasts Under this kind also are all the great fish conteined as the seale the dolphin the porpoise the thirlepole whale and whatsoeuer is round of bodie be it neuer so great and huge Of the long sort are congers eeles garefish and such other of that forme Finallie of the legged kind we haue not manie neither hane I seene anie more of this sort than the Polypus called in English the lobstar crafish or creuis and the crab As for the little crafishes they are not taken in the sea but plentifullie in our fresh riuers in banks and vnder stones where they kéepe themselues in most secret maner and oft by likenesse of colour with the stones among which they lie deceiue euen the skilfull takers of them except they vse great diligence Carolus Stephanus in his maison rustique doubted whether these lobstars be fish or not and in the end concludeth them to grow of the purgation of the water as dooth the frog and these also not to be eaten for that they be strong and verie hard of digestion But hereof let other determine further I might here speake of sundrie other fishes now and then taken also vpon our coasts but sith my mind is onelie to touch either all such as are vsuallie gotten or so manie of them onelie as I can wel rehearse vpon certeine knowledge I thinke it good at this time to forbeare the further intreatie of them As touching the shellie sort we haue plentie of oisters whose valure in old time for their swéetnesse was not vnknowne in Rome although Mutianus as Plinie noteth lib. 32 cap. 6. preferre the Cyzicene before them and these we haue in like maner of diuerse quantities and no lesse varietie also of our muskles and cockles We haue in like sort no small store of great whelkes scalops and perewinkles and each of them brought farre into the land from the sea coast in their seuerall seasons And albeit our oisters are generallie forborne in the foure hot moneths of the yeare that is to saie Maie Iune Iulie and August which are void of the letter R yet in some places they be continuallie eaten where they be kept in pits as I haue knowne by experience And thus much of our sea fish as a man in maner vtterlie vnacquainted with their diuersitie of kinds yet so much haue I yéelded to doo hoping hereafter to saie some what more and more orderlie of them if it shall please God that I may liue and haue leasure once againe to peruse this treatise and so make vp a perfect péece of worke of that which as you now sée is verie slenderlie attempted and begun Of sauage beasts and vermines Chap. 4. IT is none of the least blessings wherewith God hath indued this Iland that it is void of noisome beasts as lions beares tigers pardes wolfes such like by means whereof our countrimen may trauell in safetie our herds and flocks remaine for the most part abroad in the field without anie herdman or kéeper This is cheefelie spoken of the south and southwest parts of the Iland For wheras we that dwell on this side of the Twed may safelie boast of our securitie in this behalfe yet cannot the Scots doo the like in euerie point within their kingdome sith they haue greeuous woolfes and cruell foxes beside some other of like disposition continuallie conuersant among them to the generall hinderance of their husbandmen and no small damage vnto the inhabiters of those quarters The happie and fortunate want of these beasts in England is vniuersallie ascribed to the politike gouernement of king Edgar who to the intent the whole countrie might once be clensed and clearelie rid of them charged the conquered Welshmen who were then pestered with these rauenous creatures aboue measure to paie him a yearelie tribute of woolfes skinnes to be gathered within the land He appointed them thereto a certeine number of three hundred with free libertie for their prince to hunt pursue them ouer all quarters of the realme as our chronicles doo report Some there be which write how Ludwall prince of Wales paid yearelie to king Edgar this tribute of thrée hundred woolfes whose carcases being brought into Lhoegres were buried at Wolfpit in Cambridgeshire and that by meanes thereof within the compasse and terme of foure yeares none of those noisome creatures were left to be heard of within Wales and England Since this time also we read not that anie woolfe hath béene séene here that hath beene bred within the bounds and limits of our countrie howbeit there haue béene diuerse brought ouer from beyond the seas for gréedinesse of gaine and to make monie onlie by the gasing and gaping of our people vpon them who couet oft to see them being strange beasts in their eies and sildome knowne as I haue said in England Lions we haue had verie manie in the north parts of Scotland and those with maines of no lesse force than they of Mauritania were sometimes reported to be but how and when they were destroied as yet I doo not read They had in like sort no lesse plentie of wild and cruell buls which the princes and their nobilitie in the frugall time of the land did hunt and follow for the triall of their manhood and by pursute either on horssebacke or foot in armor notwithstanding that manie times they were dangerouslie assailed by them But both these sauage cretures are now not heard of or at the least wise the later scarselie known in the south parts Howbeit it this I gather by their being here that our Iland was not cut from the maine by the great deluge or flood of Noah but long after otherwise the generation of those
the one part nor the other was minded to giue ouer in so much that the horssemen alighting on foot and putting their horsses from them entered the battell amongst the footmen and thus they continued with equall aduantage till night came on which parted the affraie being one of the sorest foughten fields that had beene heard of in those daies To whether partie a man might iustlie attribute the victorie it was vtterlie vncerteine with so like losse gaine the matter was tried ended betwixt them With the semblable chance of danger and glorie seuen times that yéere did the English and Danes incounter in batell as writers haue recorded At length when their powers on both parts were sore diminished they agreed vpon a peace with these conditions that the Danes should not attempt anie further warre against the Englishmen nor bring into this land anie new supplie of souldiers out of Denmarke But this peace by those peacemakers was violated and broken in so much as they ment nothing lesse than to fall from the conceiued hope which they had of bearing rule in this land and of inriching themselues with the goods possessions rents and reuenues of the inhabitants The same yéere the Danes soiorned in the winter season at London according as they had doone often times before Rollo a noble man of Denmarke with a fresh power entreth England and beginneth to waste it king Alured giueth him batell Rollo saileth ouer into France who first inhabited Normandie and whereof it tooke that name the Danes breake the peace which was made betwixt them and Alured he is driuen to his shifts by their inuasions into his kingdome a vision appeereth to him and his mother king Alured disguising himselfe like a minstrell entereth the Danish campe marketh their behauiour vnsuspected assalteth them on the sudden with a fresh power and killeth manie of them at aduantage the Deuonshire men giue the Danes battell vnder the conduct of Haldens brother and are discomfited Alured fighteth with them at Edanton they giue him hostages Gurthrun their king is baptised and named Adel stan a league concluded betwixt both the kings the bounds of Alureds kingdome The xiiij Chapter ABout the same time or shortlie after there came into England one Rollo a noble man of Denmarke or Norway with a great armie and notwithstanding the peace concluded betweene the Englishmen and the Danes began to waste and destroy the countrie King Alured hearing these newes with all spéed thought best in the beginning to stop such a common mischiefe and immediatlie assembling his people went against the enimies and gaue them battell in the which there died a great number of men on both sides but the greater losse fell to Rollo his armie Yet Matthew Westmin saith that the Englishmen were put to flight After this it chanced that Rollo being warned in a dreame left England sailed ouer into France where he found fortune so fauourable to him that he obteined in that region for him and his people a countrie the which was afterwards named Normandie of those northerne people which then began to inhabit the same as in the histories of France you maie sée more at large The Danes which had concluded peace with king Alured as before you haue heard shortlie after vpon the first occasion brake the same and by often inuasions which they made into the countrie of Westsaxons brought the matter to that passe that there remained to king Alured but onelie the three countries of Hamshire Wiltshire Summersetshire in so much that he was constreined for a time to kéepe himselfe close within the fennes and maresh grounds of Summersetshire with such small companies as he had about him constreined to get their liuing with fishing hunting and other such shifts He remained for the most part within an I le called Edlingsey that is to say the Iland of noble men enuironed about with fennes and mareshes Whiles he was thus shut vp within this Iland he was by dreame aduertised of better hap shortlie to follow for as it hath béene said saint Cuthbert appéered to him as he laie in sléepe and comforted him declaring to him that within a while fortune should so turne that he should recouer againe his kingdome to the confusion of his enimies And to assure him that this should prooue true he told him that his men which were gone abroad to catch fish should bring home great plentie although the season was against them by reason that the waters were frosen and that a cold rime fell that morning to the hinderance of their purpose His mother also at that time being in sleepe saw the like vision And as they had dreamed so it came to passe for being awakened out of their sleepe in â—ame his men with so great foison of fish that the same might haue sufficed a great armie of men for the vittelling of them at that season Shortlie after king Alured tooke vpon him the habit of a minstrell and going foorth of his closure repaired to the campe of the Danish king onelie accompanied with one trustie seruant and tarrieng there certeine daies togither was suffered to go into euerie part and plaie on his instrument as well afore the king as others so that there was no secret but that he vnderstood it Now when he had séene and learned the demeanour of his enimies he returned againe to his people at Edlingsey and there declared to his nobles what he had séene and heard what negligence was amongst the enimies and how easie a matter it should be for him to indamage them Wherevpon they conceiuing a maruellous good hope and imboldened with his words a power was assembled togither and spies sent foorth to learne and bring woord where the Danes lodged which being doone and certificat made accordinglie king Alured comming vpon them on the sudden slue of them a great number hauing them at great aduantage About the same time the brother of king Halden came with thirtie and three ships out of Wales into the countrie of Westsaxons on the coast of Deuonshire where the Deuonshire men gaue him battell and slue him with 840 persons of his retinue Other write that Halden himselfe was present at this conflict with Inguare otherwise called Hungar and that they were both slaine there with twelue hundred of their companie before a certeine castell called Kinwith receiuing as they had deserued for their cruell dealing latelie by them practised in the parties of Southwales where they had wasted all afore them with fire and swoord not sparing abbeies more than other common buildings King Alured being with that good lucke the more comforted builded a fortresse in the I le of Edlingsey afterwards called Athelney and breaking out oftentimes vpon the enimies distressed them at sundrie times with the aid of the Summersetshire men which were at hand About the seuenth wéeke after Easter in the seuenth yéere
anie giants were and whether they inhabited in this I le or not 6 Of the languages spoken in this Iland 7 Into how manie kingdoms this Iland hath beene diuided 8 The names of such kings and princes as haue reigned in this Iland 9 Of the ancient religion vsed in Albion 10 Of such Ilands as are to be seene vpon the coasts of Britaine 11 Of riuers and first of the Thames and such riuers as fall into it 12 Of such streames as fall into the sea betweene the Thames and the mouth of Sauerne 13 The description of the Sauerne and such waters as discharge themselues into the same 14 Of such waters as fall into the sea in compasse of the Iland betweene the Sauerne and the Humber 15 The description of the Humber or Isis and such water-courses as doo increase hir chanell 16 Of such fals of waters as ioine with the sea betweene Humber and the Thames 17 Of such ports and creeks as our sea-faring-men doo note for their benefit vpon the coasts of England 18 Of the aire soile and commodities of this Iland 19 Of the foure high waies sometime made in Britaine by the princes of this Iland 20 Of the generall constitution of the bodies of the Britons 21 How Britaine at the first grew to be diuided into three portions 22 After what maner the souereigntie of this I le dooth remaine to the princes of Lhoegres or kings of England 23 Of the wall sometime builded for a partition betweene England and the Picts and Scots 24 Of the maruels of England REGVM ANGLIAE SERIES catalogus COnquestor Rufus prior Henricus Stephanúsque Alter Henricus Leonino corde Richardus Rex Ioannes Henricus tertius inde Eduardus primus Gnatúsque Nepósque sequuntur His infoelicem Richardum iunge secundum Henricus quartus soboles Gandaui Ioannis Praecedit Gnato quinto sextóque Nepoti Eduardus quartus quintus homicida Richardus Septimi Henricus octauus clara propago Eduardus sextus regina Maria Philippus Elisabeth longos regnet victura per annos Seráque promisso foelix potiatur olympo CARMEN CHRONOLOGICON Thomae Newtoni Cestreshyrij GRamine fluminibus grege principe fruge metallis Lacte feris armis vrbibus arte foris Quae viget ac floret generosa Britannia quaeque Obruta puluereo squalluit ante situ Exerit ecce caput genuinum nacta nitorem Et rutilum emittit cum grauitate iubar Et quod blaesa hominum mutilarat tempore lingua Illud habet rectum pumice tersa nouo Loydus in hac pridem gnauus prolusit arena Lelandus Prisius Stous Holinshedius Lambardus Morus Camdenus Thinnius Hallus Vocalis Grafton Foxius Harrisonus Hardingus Gildas Staniherstus Beda Neuillus Doctáque Flemingi lima poliuit opus Nec te cane senex magne ô Parkere silebo Cui decus attulerat pontificalis apex Omnibus his meritò est laus debita optima merces Quòd patriae accendant lumina clara suae Longa dies opus hoc peperit longaeua senectus Et libri authores perbeet atque librum ⧠An Historicall description of the Iland of Britaine with a briefe rehersall of the nature and qualities of the people of England and such commodities as are to be found in the same Comprehended in three bookes and written by W. H. Of the diuision of the whole earth Chapter 1. WE read that the earth hath beene diuided into thrée parts euen sithens the generall floud And the common opinion is that Noah limited and bestowed it vpon his three sons Iaphet Cham and Sem preserued with him in the Arke giuing vnto each of them such portions thereof as to him séemed good and neuerthelesse reteining the souereigntie of the whole still vnto himselfe albeit as yet it be left vncertaine how those seuerall parts were bounded and from whome they tooke such names as in our times are attributed to each of them Certes the words Asia Europa and Africa are denominations giuen but of late to speake of vnto them and it is to be doubted whether sithens the time of Noah the sea hath in sundrie places wonne or lost added or diminished to and from each of them or whether Europa and Lybia were but one portion and the same westerlie regions of late discouered and now called America was the third part counting Asia for the second or the selfe region of the Atlantides which Plato and others for want of traffike thither in their times supposed to be dissolued and sunke into the sea as by their writings appeereth Not long before my time we reckoned Asia Europa and Africa for a full and perfect diuision of the whole earth which are parcels onelie of that huge Iland that lieth east of the Atlantike sea and whereof the first is diuided from the second by Tanais which riseth in the rocks of Caucasus and hideth it selfe in the Meotine moores and the Ocean sea and the last from them both by the Mediterrane and red sea otherwise called Mare Erythraeum But now all men especially the learned begin to doubt of the soundnes of that partition bicause a no lesse part than the greatest of the thrée ioined with those Ilands and maine which lie vnder the north and Southpoles if not double in quantitie vnto the same are found out and discouered by the diligence of our trauellers Hereby it appeereth that either the earth was not exactlie diuided in time past by antiquitie or els that the true diuision thereof came not to the hands and notice of their posteritie so that our ancestors haue hitherto as it were laboured in the Cimmerian darkenesse and were vtterlie ignorant of the truth of that whereabout they indeuoured to shew their trauels and knowledge in their writings Some peece of this confusion also is to be found amongst the ancient and Romane writers who notwithstanding their large conquests did sticke in the same mire with their successors not being able as appeereth by their treatises to deliuer and set downe the veritie For Salust in his booke De bello Iugurthino cannot tell whether Africa be parcell of Asia or not And with the same scruple Varro in his booke De lingua Lat. is not a litle incumbred who in the end concludeth that the whole earth is diuided into Asia and Europa so that Africa is excluded and driuen out of his place Silius also writeth of Africa as one not yet resolued wherevnto to leane that it is Aut ingens Asiae latus aut pars tertia rerum Wherein Lucane lib. 9. sheweth himselfe to be far of another iudgement in that he ascribeth it to Europa saieng after this maner Tertia pars rerum Lybia si credere famae Cuncta velis si ventos coelúmque sequaris Pars erit Europae nec enim plus littora Nili Quà m Scythicus Tanais primis à gradibus absunt Whereby I saie we may well vnderstand that in the time of Augustus Tiberius Claudius Nero the Romanes
vnto or not verie farre from the coasts of Britaine many faire Ilands wherof Ireland with hir neighbors not here handled séeme to be the cheefe But of the rest some are much larger or lesse than other diuers in like sort enuironed continuallie with the salt sea whereof I purpose onelie to intreat although not a few of them be Ilands but at the floud and other finallie be clipped partlie by the fresh and partlie by the salt water or by the fresh alone whereof I may speake afterward Of these salt Ilands for so I call them that are enuironed with the Ocean waues some are fruitfull in wood corne wild foule and pasture ground for cattell albeit that manie of them be accounted barren bicause they are onelie replenished with conies and those of sundrie colours cherished of purpose by the owners for their skins or carcases in their prouision of household without either man or woman otherwise inhabiting in them Furthermore the greatest number of these Ilands haue townes and parish-churches within their seuerall precincts some mo some lesse and beside all this are so inriched with commodities that they haue pleasant hauens fresh springs great store of fish and plentie of cattell wherby the inhabitants doo reape no small aduantage How manie they are in number I cannot as yet determine bicause mine informations are not so fullie set downe as the promises of some on the one side mine expectation on the other did extend vnto Howbeit first of all that there are certeine which lie neere togither as it were by heapes and clusters I hope none will readilie denie Of these also those called the Nesiadae Insulae Scylurum Silcustrae Syllanae now the Sorlings and Iles of Silley lieng beyond Cornwall are one and confeâ—eth in number one hundreth fourtie and seauen each of them bearing grasse besides shelfes and shallowes In like sort the companie of the Hebrâ—des in old time subiect vnto Ireland are another which are said to be 43. situat vpon the west side of this Iand betweene Ireland Scotland and of which there are some that repute Anglesei Mona Caesaris and other lieng betweene them to be parcell in their corrupted iudgement The third cluster or bunch consisteth of those that are called the Orchades and these lie vpon the northwest point of Scotland being 31. alià s 28. in number as for the rest they lie scattered here and there and yet not to be vntouched as their courses shall come about There are also the 18. Shetland Iles and other yet farther distant from them of which Iohn Frobuser I doubt not touched vpon some in his voiage to Meta Incognita but for somuch as I must speake of the Shetlands hereafter I doo not meane to spend anie time about them as yet There haue beene diuers that haue written of purpose De insulis Britanniae as Caesar doth confesse The like also may be seene by Plutarch who nameth one Demetrius a Britaine that should set foorth an exact treatise of each of them in order and among other tell of certeine desert Iles beyond Scotland dedicated to sundrie gods and goddesses but of one especiallie where Briareus should hold Saturne and manie other spirits fast bound with the chaines of an heauie sléepe as he heard of which some die now and then by meane wherof the aire becommeth maruellouslie troubled c as you may sée in Plutarch De cessatione oraculorum c. But sith those bookes are now perished and the most of the said Ilands remaine vtterlie vnknowen euen to our owne selues for who is able in our time to say where is Glota Hiuerion Etta Iduna Armia Aesarea Barsa Isiandium Icdelis Xantisma Indelis Siata Ga. Andros or Edros Siambis Xanthos Ricnea Menapia c whose names onelie are lest in memorie by ancient writers but I saie their places not so much as heard of in our daies I meane God willing to set downe so manie of them with their commodities as I doo either know by Leland or am otherwise instructed of by such as are of credit Herein also I will touch at large those that are most famous and breeflie passe ouer such as are obscure and vnknowen making mine entrance at the Thames mouth and directing this imagined course for I neuer sailed it by the south part of the Iland into the west From thence in like sort I will proceed into the north come about againe by the east side into the fall of the aforesaid streame where I will strike saile and safelie be set a shore that haue often in this voiage wanted water but oftener béene set a ground especiallie on the Scotish side In beginning therefore with such as lie in the mouth of the aforesaid riuer I must néeds passe by the How which is not an Iland and therefore not within the compasse of my description at this time but almost an Iland which parcels the Latins call Peninsulas and I doo english a Byland vsing the word for such as a man may go into drie-footed at the full sea or on horssebacke at the low water without anie boat or vessell and such a one almost is Rochford hundred in Essex also yet not at this time to be spoken of bicause not the sea onelie but the fresh water also doth in maner enuiron it and is the cheefe occasion wherfore it is called an Iland This How lieth between Cliffe in old time called Clouesho to wit Cliffe in How or in the hundred of How the midwaie that goeth along by Rochester of which hundred there goeth an old prouerbe in rime after this maner He that rideth into the hundred of How Beside pilfering sea-men shall find durt ynow Next vnto this we haue the Greane wherein is a towne of the same denomination an I le supposed to be foure miles in length and two in bredth Then come we to Shepey which Ptolomie calleth Counos conteining seauen miles in length and three in bredth wherein is a castell called Quinborow and a parke beside foure townes of which one is named Minster another Eastchurch the third Warden and the fourth Leyden the whole soile being throughlie fed with shéepe verie well woodded and as I heare belongeth to the Lord Cheyney as parcell of his inheritance It lieth thirtéene miles by water from Rochester but the castell is fiftéene and by south thereof are two small Ilands wherof the one is called Elmesie and the more easterlie Hertesie In this also is a towne called Hertie or Hartie and all in the Lath of Scraie notwithstanding that Hartie lieth in the hundred of Feuersham and Shepey reteineth one especiall Bailie of hir owne From hence we passe by the Reculuers or territorie belonging in time past to one Raculphus who erected an house of religion or some such thing there vnto a little Iland in the Stoure mouth Herevpon also the Thanet abutteth which Ptolomie calleth
beasts as marterns sheepe oxen and gotes skins and therevnto a kind of cloth which they weaue and sell to the merchants of Norwaie togither with their butter fish either salted or dried and their traine oile and exercise their trade of fishing also in their vncerteine skewes which they fetch out of Norwaie Their speech is Gothish and such of them as by their dealing with forren merchants doo gather anie wealth that they will verie often bestow vpon the furniture of their houses Their weights measures are after the Germaine maner their countrie is verie healthie and so wholesome that of late a man was found which had maried a wife at one hundred yeares of age and was able to go out a fishing with his bote at one hundred and fortie and of late yéeres died of méere age without anie other disease Dronkennesse is not heard of among them and yet they meet and make good chéere verie often Neither doo I read of anie great vse of flesh or foule there although that some of their Ilands haue plentie of each Nor anie mention of corne growing in these parts and therefore in steed of bread they drie a kind of fish which they beat in morters to powder bake it in their ouens vntill it be hard and drie Their fuell also is of such bones as the fish yéeldeth that is taken on their coasts and yet they liue as themselues suppose in much felicitie thinking it a great péece of their happinesse to be so farre distant from the wicked auarice and cruell dealings of the more rich and ciuill part of the world Herein also they are like vnto the Hirthiens in that at one time of the yeare there commeth a priest vnto them out of the Orchades vnto which iurisdiction they doo belong who baptiseth all such children as haue béene borne among them since he last arriued and hauing afterward remained there for a two daies he taketh his tithes of them which they prouide and paie with great scrupulositie in fish for of other commodities paie they none and then returneth home againe not without boast of his troublesome voiage except he watch his time In these Iles also is great plentie of fine Amber to be had as Hector saith which is producted by the working of the sea vpon those coasts but more of this elsewhere This neuertheles is certeine that these Ilands with the Orchades were neuer perfectlie vnited to the crowne of Scotland till the mariage was made betwéene king Iames and the ladie Marie daughter to Christierne king of Denmarke 1468 which Christierne at the birth of their sonne Iames afterward king of Scotland and called Iames the fourth resigned all his right and title whatsoeuer either he or his ancestors either presently or hertofore had might haue had or herafrer may or should haue vnto the aforesaid péeres as appéereth by the charter From these Shetland Iles and vntill we come southwards to the Scarre which lieth in Buquhamnesse I find no mention of anie I le situat vpon that coast neither greatlie from thence vntill we come at the Forth that leadeth vp to Sterling neither thought we it safetie for vs to search so farre as Thule whence the most excellent brimstone commeth thereto what store of Ilands lie vnder the more northerlie climats whose secret situations though partlie seene in my time haue not yet bin perfectlie reueled or discouered by anie bicause of the great aboundance of huge Ilands of ice that mooueth to and fro vpon their shores and sundrie perilous gulfes and indraughts of water and for as much as their knowlege doth not concerne our purpose wherfore casting about we came at the last into the Firth or Forth which some call the Scotish sea wherein we passe by seuen or eight such as they be of which the first called the Maie the second Baas and Garwie the third doo séeme to be inhabited From these also holding on our course toward England we passe by another I le wherein Faux castell standeth and this so far as my skill serueth is the last Iland of the Scotish side in compassing whereof I am not able to discerne whether their flats and shallowes number of Ilands without name confusion of situation lacke of true description or mine owne ignorance hath troubled me most No meruell therefore that I haue béene so oft on ground among them But most ioifull am I that am come home againe although not by the Thames mouth into my natiue citie which taketh his name of Troie yet into the English dominion where good interteinement is much more franke and copious and better harborough wherein to rest my wearie bones and refresh at ease our wether beaten carcasses The first Iland therefore which commeth to our sight after we passed Berwike is that which was somtime called Lindesfarne but now Holie Iland and conteineth eight miles a place much honored among our monasticall writers bicause diuerse moonks and heremits did spend their times therein There was also the bishops see of Lindesfarne for a long season which afterward was translated to Chester in the stréet finallie to Duresine Dunelme or Durham It was first erected by Oswald wherein he placed Aidanus the learned Scotish moonke who came hither out of the I le called Hij whereof Beda speaking in the third chapter of his third booke noteth that although the said Hij belong to the kings of Northumberland by reason of situation néerenesse to the coast yet the Picts appointed the bishops of the same and gaue the I le with the see it selfe to such Scotish moonks as they liked bicause that by their preaching they first receiued the faith But to returne to Lindesfarne After Aidan departed this life Finanus finished and builded the whole church with sawed timber of oke after the maner of his countrie which when Theodorus the archbishop of Canturburie had dedicated Edbert the bishop did couer ouer with lead Next vnto this is the I le of Farne and herein is a place of defense so far as I remember and so great store of egs laid there by diuerse kinds of wildfoule in time of the yeare that a man shall hardlie run for a wager on the plaine ground without the breach of manie before his race be finished About Farne also lie certeine Iles greater than Farne it selfe but void of inhabitants and in these also is great store of puffins graie as duckes and without coloured fethers sauing that they haue a white ring round about their necks There is moreouer another bird which the people call saint Cuthberts foules a verie tame and gentle creature and easie to be taken After this we came to the Cocket Iland so called bicause it lieth ouer against the fall of Cocket water Herein is a veine of meane seacole which the people dig out of the shore at the low water and in this Iland dwelled one Henrie sometime a famous heremite who as his life declareth came
of the Danish race And from thence vntill we came vnto the coast of Norffolke I saw no more Ilands Being therfore past S. Edmunds point we found a litle I le ouer against the fall of the water that commeth from Holkham likewise another ouer against the Claie before we came at Waburne hope the third also in Yarmouth riuer ouer against Bradwell a towne in low or little England whereof also I must néeds saie somewhat bicause it is in maner an Iland and as I gesse either hath béene or may be one for the brodest place of the strict land that leadeth to the same is little aboue a quarter of a mile which against the raging waues of the sea can make but small resistance Little England or low England therefore is about eight miles in length and foure in bredth verie well replenished with townes as Fristan Burgh castell Olton Flixton Lestoft Gunton Blundston Corton Lownd Ashebie Hoxton Belton Bradwell and Gorleston and beside this it is verie fruitfull and indued with all commodities Going forward from hence by the Estonnesse almost an Iland I saw a small parcell cut from the maine in Oxford hauen the Langerstone in Orwell mouth two péeces or Islets at Cattiwade bridge and then casting about vnto the Colne we beheld Merseie which is a pretie Iland well furnished with wood It was sometime a great receptacle for the Danes when they inuaded England howbeit at this present it hath beside two decaied blockehouses two parish churches of which one is called east Merseie the other west Merseie and both vnder the archdeacon of Colchester as parcell of his iurisdiction Foulenesse is an I le void of wood and yet well replenished with verie good grasse for neat and sheepe whereof the inhabitants haue great plentie there is also a parish church and albeit that it stand somewhat distant from the shore yet at a dead low water a man may as they saie ride thereto if he be skilfull of the causie it is vnder the iurisdiction of London And at this present master William Tabor bacheler of diuinitie and archdeacon of Essex hath it vnder his iurisdiction regiment by the surrender of maister Iohn Walker doctor also of diuinitie who liued at such time as I first attempted to commit this booke to the impression In Maldon water are in like sort thrée Ilands inuironed all with salt streames as saint Osithes Northeie and another after a mersh that beareth no name so far as I remember On the right hand also as we went toward the sea againe we saw Ramseie I le or rather a Peninsula or Biland likewise the Reie in which is a chappell of saint Peter And then coasting vpon the mouth of the Bourne we saw the Wallot Ile and his mates whereof two lie by east Wallot and the fourth is Foulnesse except I be deceiued for here my memorie faileth me on the one side and information on the other I meane concerning the placing of Foulenesse But to procéed After this and being entered into the Thames mouth I find no Iland of anie name except you accompt Rochford hundred for one whereof I haue no mind to intreat more than of Crowland Mersland Elie and the rest that are framed by the ouze Andredeseie in Trent so called of a church there dedicated to saint Andrew and Auon two noble riuers hereafter to be described sith I touch onelie those that are inuironed with the sea or salt water round about as we may see in the Canwaie Iles which some call marshes onelie and liken them to an ipocras bag some to a vice scrue or wide sléeue bicause they are verie small at the east end and large at west The salt rilles also that crosse the same doo so separat the one of them from the other that they resemble the slope course of the cutting part of a scrue or gimlet in verie perfect maner if a man doo imagine himselfe to looke downe from the top of the mast vpon them Betwéene these moreouer and the Leigh towne lieth another litle Ile or Holme whose name is to me vnknowne Certes I would haue gone to land and viewed these parcels as they laie or at the least haue sailed round about them by the whole hauen which may easilie be doone at an high water but for as much as a perrie of wind scarse comparable to the makerell gale whereof Iohn Anele of Calis one of the best seamen that England euer bred for his skill in the narow seas was woont to talke caught hold of our sailes caried vs forth the right waie toward London I could not tarie to sée what things were hereabouts Thus much therefore of our Ilands so much may well suffice where more cannot be had The description of the Thames and such riuers as fall into the same Cap. 11. HAuing as you haue séene attempted to set downe a full discourse of all the Ilands that are situat vpon the coast of Britaine and finding the successe not correspondent to mine intent it hath caused me somewhat to restreine my purpose in this description also of our riuers For whereas I intended at the first to haue written at large of the number situation names quantities townes villages castels mounteines fresh waters plashes or lakes salt waters and other commodities of the aforesaid Iles mine expectation of information from all parts of England was so deceiued in the end that I was fame at last onelie to leane to that which I knew my selfe either by reading or such other helpe as I had alreadie purchased and gotten of the same And euen so it happeneth in this my tractation of waters of whose heads courses length bredth depth of chanell for burden ebs flowings and falles I had thought to haue made a perfect description vnder the report also of an imagined course taken by them all But now for want of instruction which hath béene largelie promised slacklie perfourmed and other sudden and iniurious deniall of helpe voluntarilie offered without occasion giuen on my part I must needs content my selfe with such obseruations as I haue either obteined by mine owne experience or gathered from time to time out of other mens writings whereby the full discourse of the whole is vtterlie cut off and in steed of the same a mangled rehearsall of the residue set downe and left in memorie Wherefore I beséech your honour to pardon this imperfection and rudenesse of my labour which notwithstanding is not altogither in vaine sith my errors maie prooue a spurre vnto the better skilled either to correct or inlarge where occasion serueth or at the leastwise to take in hand a more absolute péece of worke as better direction shall incourage them thereto The entrance and beginning of euerie thing is the hardest and he that beginneth well hath atchiued halfe his purpose The ice my lord is broken and from hencefoorth it will be more easie for
also it goeth vnto Bruerne Shipton vnderwood Ascot Short hamton Chorleburie Corneburie parke Stonfield Longcombe and southeast of Woodstocke parke taketh in the Enis that riseth aboue Emstone and goeth to Ciddington Glimton Wotton where it is increased with a rill that runneth thither from stéeple Barton by the Béechin trée Woodstocke Blaidon so that after this confluence the said Enis runneth to Casūnton and so into the Isis which goeth from hence to Oxford and there receiueth the Charwell now presentlie to be described The head of Charwell is in Northamptonshire where it riseth out of a little poole by Charleton village seuen miles aboue Banberie northeast and there it issueth so fast at the verie surge that it groweth into a pretie streame in maner out of hand Soone after also it taketh in a rillet called the Bure which falleth into it about Otmere side but forasmuch as it riseth by Bincester the whole course therof is not aboue foure miles and therefore cannot be great A friend of mine prosecuting the rest of this description reporteth thereof as followeth Before the Charwell commeth into Oxfordshire it receiueth the Culen which falleth into the same a little aboue Edgcote and so descending toward Wardington it méeteth with another comming from by north west betweene Wardington and Cropreadie At Banberie also it méeteth with the Come which falleth from fennie Conton by Farneboro and afterwards going by kings Sutton not far from Aine it receiueth the discharge of diuerse rillets in one bottome before it come at Clifton The said water therfore ingendred of so manie brookelets consisteth chiefelie of two whereof the most southerlie called Oke commeth from Oke Norton by Witchington or Wiggington and the Berfords and carieng a few blind rils withall dooth méet with the other that falleth from by northwest into the same within a mile of Charwell That other as I coniecture is increased of thrée waters wherof each one hath his seuerall name The first of them therefore hight Tudo which comming betwéene Epwell and the Lée by Toddington ioineth about Broughton with the second that runneth from Horneton named Ornus as I gesse The last falleth into the Tude or Tudelake beneath Broughton and for that it riseth not far from Sotteswell in Warwikeshire some are of the opinion that it is to be called Sotbrooke The next water that méeteth without Charwell beneath Clifton commeth from about Croughton and after this is the Sowar or Swere that riseth north of Michaell Tew and runneth by nether Wotton The last of all is the Reie aliàs Bure whose head is not far aboue Burcester aliàs Bincester and Burncester and from whence it goeth by Burecester to Merton Charleton Fencote Addington Noke Islip and so into Charwell that holdeth on his course after this augmentation of the waters betwéene Wood and Water Eton to Marston and the east bridge of Oxford by Magdalene college and so beneath the south bridge into our aforesaid Isis. In describing this riuer this one thing right honorable is come vnto my mind touching the center and nauill as it were of England Certes there is an hillie plot of ground in Helledon parish not far from Danberie where a man maie stand and behold the heads of thrée notable riuers whose waters and those of such as fall into them doo abundantlie serue the greatest part of England on this side of the Humber The first of these waters is the Charwell alreadie described The second is the Leme that goeth westward into the fourth Auon And the third is the head of the Nene or fift Auon it selfe of whose courses there is no card but doth make sufficient mention and therefore your honour maie behold in the same how they doo coast the countrie and also measure by compasses how this plot lieth in respect of all the rest contrarie to common iudgement which maketh Northampton to be the middest and center of our countrie But to go forward with my description of the Ouse which being past Oxford goeth to Iflie Kennington Sanford Rodleie Newnham and so to Abington somtime called Sensham without increase where it receiueth the Oche otherwise called the Coche a little beneath S. Helens which runneth thither of two brooklets as I take it whereof one commeth from Compton out of the vale and west of the hill of the White horsse the other from Kings Letcombe and Wantage in Barkshire and in one chanell entreth into the same vpon the right side of his course From Abington likewise taking the Arun withall southwest of Sutton Courtneie it goeth by Appleford long Wittenham Clifton Wittenham the lesse beneath Dorchester taketh in the Thame water from whence the Isis loseth the preheminence of the whole denomination of this riuer and is contented to impart the same with the Thame so that by the coniunction of these two waters Thamesis is producted and that name continued euen vnto the sea Thame riuer riseth in the easterlie parts of Chilterne hils towards Penleie parke at a towne called Tring west of the said parke which is seauen miles from the stone bridge that is betweene Querendon and Ailsburie after the course of the water as Leland hath set downe Running therefore by long Merston and Puttenham Hucket and Bearton it receiueth soone after a rill that commeth by Querendon from Hardwike and yer long an other on the other side that riseth aboue Windouer in the Chilterne and passing by Halton Weston Turrill Broughton and Ailsburie it falleth into the Tame west of the said towne except my memorie doo faile me From this confluence the Tame goeth by Ethorpe the Winchingtons Coddington Chersleie Notleie abbeie and comming almost to Tame it receiueth one water from southeast aboue the said towne and another also from the same quarter beneath the towne so that Tame standeth inuironed vpon thrée sides with thrée seuerall waters as maie be easilie séene The first of these commeth from the Chiltern east of Below or Bledlow from whence it goeth to Hinton Horsenden Kingseie Towseie and so into the Tame The other descendeth also from the Chilterne and going by Chinner Crowell Siddenham and Tame parke it falleth in the end into Tame water and then they procéed togither as one by Shabbington Ricot parke Dracot Waterstoke Milton Cuddesdon and Chiselton Here also it taketh in another water from by-east whose head commeth from Chilterne hils not farre from Stocking church in the waie from Oxford to London From whence it runneth to Weston and méeting beneath Cuxham with Watlington rill it goeth on to Chalgraue Stadham and so into the Tame From hence our streame of Thame runneth to Newenton Draton Dorchester sometime a bishops see and a noble citie and so into the Thames which hasteth in like sort to Bensington Crowmarsh or Wallingford where it receiueth the Blaue descending from Blaueburg now Blewberie as I learne Thus haue I brought the Thames vnto
the mouth of the Sauerne Chap. 12. AFter the Midwaie we haue the Stoure that riseth at Kingeswood which is fourtéene or fifteene miles from Canturburie This riuer passeth by Ashford Wie Nackington Canturburie Fordish Standish and Sturemouth where it receiueth another riuer growing of three branches After our Stoure or Sture parteth it self in twaine in such wise that one arme therof goeth toward the north and is called when it commeth at the sea the north mouth of Stoure the other runneth southeast ward vp to Richborow and so to Sandwich from whence it goeth northeast againe and falleth into the sea The issue of this later tract is called the hauen of Sandwich And peraduenture the streame that commeth downe thither after the diuision of the Stoure maie be the same which Beda calleth Wantsome but as I cannot vndoo this knot at will so this is certeine that the Stoure on the one side and peraduenture the Wantsome on the other parteth and cutteth the Tenet from the maine land of Kent whereby it is left for an Iland There are other little brookes which fall into the Stoure whereof Leland speaketh as Fishpoole becke that ariseth in Stonehirst wood and meeteth with it foure miles from Canturburie another beginneth at Chislet and goeth into the Stoure gut which sometime inclosed Thanet as Leland saith the third issueth out of the ground at Northburne where Eadbert of Kent sometime past held his palace and runneth to Sandwich hauen as the said authour reporteth and the fourth called Bridgewater that riseth by S. Marie Burne church and going by Bishops Burne meeteth with Canturburie water at Stourmouth also Wiham that riseth aboue Wiham short of Adsam and falleth into Bridgewater at Dudmill or Wenderton and the third namelesse which riseth short of Wodensburgh a towne wherein Hengist the Saxons honored their grand idoll Woden or Oshine and goeth by Staple to Wingam but sith they are obscure I will not touch them here From hence passing by the Goodwine a plot verie perilous for sea-faring men sometime firme land that is vntill the tenth of the conquerours sonne whose name was William Rufus and wherein a great part of the inheritance of erle Goodwine in time past was knowne to lie but escaping it with case we came at length to Douer In all which voiage we found no streame by reason of the cliffes that inuiron the said coast Howbeit vpon the south side of Douer there is a pretie fresh riuer whose head ariseth at Erwell not passing foure miles from the sea and of some is called Dour which in the British foong is a common name for waters as is also the old British word Auon for the greatest riuers into whose mouthes or falles shippes might find safe entrance and therefore such are in my time called hauens a new word growen by an aspiration added to the old the Scots call it Auen But more of this else-where sith I am now onelie to speake of Dour wherof it is likelie that the towne castell of Douer did sometime take the name From hence we go toward the Camber omitting peraduenture here and there sundrie small creeks void of backwater by the waie whereabouts the Rother a noble riuer falleth into the sea This Rother separateth Sussex from Kent and hath his head in Sussex not farre from Argas hill néere to Waterden forrest and from thence directeth his course vnto Rotherfield After this it goeth to Ethlingham or Hitchingham and so foorth by Newendon vnto Mattham ferrie where it diuideth it selfe in such wise that one branch thereof goeth to Appledoure where is a castell sometime builded by the Danes in the time of Alfred as they did erect another at Middleton and the third at Beamflete and at this towne where it méeteth the Bilie that riseth about Bilsington the other by Iden so that it includeth a fine parcell of ground called Oxneie which in time past was reputed as a parcell of Sussex but now vpon some occasion or other to me vnknowne annexed vnto Kent From hence also growing into some greatnesse it runneth to Rie where it méeteth finallie with the Becke which commeth from Beckleie so that the plot wherein Rie standeth is in manner a by-land or peninsula as experience doth confirme Leland and most men are of the likeliest opinion that this riuer should be called the Limen which as Peter of Cornhull saith doth issue out of Andredeswald where the head thereof is knowne to be Certes I am of the opinion that it is called the Rother vnto Appledoure from thence the Limen bicause the Danes are noted to enter into these parts by the Limen and sailing on the same to Appledoure did there begin to fortifie as I haue noted alreadie Howbeit in our time it is knowne by none other name than the Rother or Appledoure water whereof let this suffice Being thus crossed ouer to the west side of Rie hauen in vewing the issues that fall into the same I meet first of all with a water that groweth of two brookes which come downe by one chanell into the east side of the mouth of the said port The first therfore that falleth into it descendeth from Beckleie or thereabouts as I take it the next runneth along by Pesemarsh soone after ioining with all they hold on as one till they fall into the same at the westerlie side of Rie the third streame commeth from the north and as it mounteth vp not farre from Munfield so it runneth betweene Sescambe and Wacklinton néere vnto Bread taking another rill withall that riseth as I heare not verie far from Westfield There is likewise a fourth that groweth of two heads betweene Ielingham and Pet and going by Winchelseie it méeteth with all about Rie hauen so that Winchelseie standeth inuironed on thrée parts with water and the streames of these two that I haue last rehearsed The water that falleth into the Ocean a mile by southwest of Hastings or therabouts is called Aestus or Asten perhaps of Hasten or Hasting the Dane who in time past was a plague to France and England rising not far from Penhirst it meeteth with the sea as I heare by east of Hollington Buluerhith is but a creeke as I remember serued with no backewater and so I heare of Codding or Old hauen wherefore I meane not to touch them Into Peuenseie hauen diuerse waters doo resort and of these that which entereth into the same on the east side riseth out from two heads where of the most easterlie is called Ash the next vnto the Burne and vniting themselues not farre from Ashburne they continue their course vnder the name and title of Ashburne water as I read The second that commeth thereinto issueth also of two heads whereof the one is so manie miles from Boreham the other not far from the Parke east of Hellingstowne and both of them concurring southwest of Hirstmowsen they
village standing thereby the mouth whereof lieth almost directlie against Porchester castell which is situat about three miles by water from Portesmouth towne as Leland dooth report Then go we within halfe a mile further to Forten creeke which either giueth or taketh name of a village hard by After this we come to Osterpoole lake a great créeke that goeth vp by west into the land and lieth not far from a round turret of stone from whence also there goeth a chaine to another tower on the east side directlie ouer against it the like whereof is to be séene in diuerse other hauens of the west countrie wherby the entrance of great vessels into that part may be at pleasure restreined From hence we go further to Tichefeld water that riseth about Eastmaine parke ten or twelue miles by northeast or there abouts from Tichefeld From Eastmaine it goeth parting the forrests of Waltham and Eastberie by the way to Wicham or Wicombe a pretie market towne large through-fare where also the water separateth it selfe into two armelets and going vnder two bridges of wood commeth yer long againe vnto one chanell From hence it goeth three or foure miles further to a bridge of timber by maister Writhoseleies house leauing Tichfeld towne on the right side and a little beneath runneth vnder Ware bridge whither the sea floweth as hir naturall course inforceth Finallie within a mile of this bridge it goeth into the water of Hampton hauen whervnto diuerse streames resort as you shall heare hereafter After this we come to Hamble hauen or Hamelrish créeke whose fall is betwéene saint Andrewes castell and Hoke It riseth about Shidford in Waltham forrest when it is past Croke bridge it méeteth with another brooke which issueth not farre from Bishops Waltham out of sundrie springs in the high waie on Winchester from whence it passeth as I said by Bishops Waltham then to Budeleie or Botleie and then ioining with the Hamble they run togither by Prowlingsworth Upton Brusill Hamble towne and so into the sea Now come we to the hauen of Southhampton by Ptolomie called Magnus portus which I will briefelie describe so néere as I can possiblie The bredth or entrie of the mouth hereof as I take it is by estimation two miles from shore to shore At the west point therof also is a strong castell latelie builded which is rightlie named Caldshore but now Cawshot I wote not by what occasion On the east side thereof also is a place called Hoke afore mentioned or Hamell hoke wherein are not aboue thrée or foure fisher houses not worthie to be remembred This hauen shooteth vp on the west side by the space of seuen miles vntill it come to Hampton towne standing on the other side where it is by estimation a mile from land to land Thence it goeth vp further about thrée miles to Redbridge still ebbing and flowing thither and one mile further so farre as my memorie dooth serue mée Now it resteth that I describe the Alresford streame which some doo call the Arre or Arle and I will procéed withall in this order following The Alresford beginneth of diuerse faire springs about a mile or more frō Alresford or Alford as it is now called and soone after resorting to one bottome they become a broad lake which for the most part is called Alford pond Afterward returning againe to a narrow chanell it goeth through a stone bridge at the end of Alford towne leauing the towne it selfe on the lest hand toward Hicthingstocke thrée miles off but yet it commeth there it receiueth two rils in one bottome whereof one commeth from the Forrest in maner at hand and by northwest of old Alresford the other frō Browne Candiuer that goeth by Northenton Swarewotton Aberstone c vntill we méet with the said water beneath Alford towne Being past Hichinstocke it commeth by Anington to Eston village and to Woorthie where it beginneth to branch and ech arme to part it selfe into other that resort to Hide and the lower soiles by east of Winchester there seruing the stréets the close of S. Maries Wolueseie and the new college verie plentifullie with their water But in this meane while the great streame commeth from Worthie to the east bridge and so to saint Elizabeth college where it dooth also part in twaine enuironing the said house in most delectable maner After this it goeth toward S. Crosses leauing it a quarter of a mile on the right hand then to Twiford a mile lower where it gathereth againe into one bottome and goeth six miles further to Woodmill taking the Otter brooke withall on the east side and so into the salt créeke that leadeth downe to the hauen On the other side of Southhampton there resorteth into this hauen also both the Test the Stockbridge water in one bottome whereof I find this large description insuing The verie head of the Stockewater is supposed to be somewhere about Basing stoke or church Hockleie and going from thence betwéene Ouerton and Steuenton it commeth at last by Lauerstocke Whitchurch and soone after receiuing a brooke by northwest called the Bourne descending from S. Marie Bourne southeast from Horsseburne it procéedeth by Long paroch and the wood till it meet with the Cranburne on the cast side a pretie riuelet rising about Michelneie and going by Fullington Barton and to Cramburne thence to Horwell in one bottome beneath which it meeteth with the Andeuer water that is increased yer it come there by an other brooke whose name I doo not know This Andeuer streame riseth in Culhamshire forrest not far by north from Andeuer towne and going to vpper Clatford yer it touch there it receiueth the rill of which I spake before which rising also néeer vnto Anport goeth to Monketon to Abbatesham the Andeuer and both as I said vnto the Test beneath Horwell whereof I spake euen now These streames being thus brought into one bottome it runneth toward the south vnder Stockbridge and soone after diuiding it selfe in twaine one branch thereof goeth by Houghton a little beneath meeteth with a rill that commeth from bywest of S. Ans hill and goeth by east of vpper Wallop west of nether Wallop by Bucholt forrest Broughton and called as I haue béene informed the Gallop but now it is named Wallop The other arme runneth through the parke by north west of kings Somburne and vniting themselues againe they go forth by Motteshunt and then receiue the Test a pretie water rising in Clarendun parke that goeth by west Deane and east Deane so to Motteshunt and finallie to the aforesaid water which from thencefoorth is called the Test euen vnto the sea But to procéed After this confluence it taketh the gate to Kimbebridge then to Rumseie Longbridge and beneath the same receiueth a concourse of two rilles whereof the one commeth from Sherefield the other from the new Forrest and ioining in Wadeleie parke
they beat vpon the Test not verie farre from Murseling From thence the Test goeth vnder a pretie bridge before it come at Redbridge from whence it is not long yer it fall into the hauen The next riuer that runneth into this port springeth in the new Forrest and commeth thereinto about Eling not passing one mile by west of the fall of Test. From hence casting about againe into the maine sea and leauing Calde shore castell on the right hand we directed our course toward the southwest vnto Beaulieu hauen whereinto the Mineie descendeth The Mineie riseth not far from Mineiestéed a village in the north part of the new Forrest and going by Beaulieu it falleth into the sea southwest west as I take it of Exburie a village standing vpon the shore Being past the Mineie we crossed the Limen as it is now called whose head is in the verie hart of the new Forrest sometime conuerted into a place of nourishment for déere by William Rufus buieng his pleasure with the ruine of manie towns and villages as diuerse haue inclosed or inlarged their parks by the spoile of better occupiengs running southwest of Lindhirst the parke it goeth by east of Brokenhirst west of Bulder finallie into the sea south and by east of Lemington I take this not to be the proper name of the water but of the hauen for Limen in Gréeke is an hauen so that Limendune is nothing else but a downe or higher plot of ground lieng on the hauen neuerthelesse sith this denomination of the riuer hath now hir frée passage I think it not conuenient to séeke out any other name that should be giuen vnto it The next fall that we passed by is namelesse except it be called Bure as it descendeth from new Forrest so the next vnto it hight Mile as I haue heard in English Certes the head thereof is also in the southwest part of the said Forrest the fall not far from Milford bridge beyond the which I find a narrow going or strictland leading fro the point to Hirst castell which standeth into the sea as if it hoong by a thred from the maine of the Iland readie to be washed awaie by the continuall working and dailie beating of the waues The next riuer that we came vnto of anie name is the Auon which as Leland saith riseth by northeast and not far from Woolfehall in Wilthshire supposed to be the same which Ptolomie called Halenus The first notable bridge that it runneth vnto is at Uphauen thence foure miles further it goeth to little Ambresburie and there is another bridge from thence to Woodford village standing at the right hand banke and Newton village on the left The bishops of Sarum had a proper manor place at Woodford which bishop Shaxton pulled downe altogither bicause it was somewhat in ruine Thence it goeth to Fisherton bridge to Cranebridge old Salisburie new Salisburie and finallie to Harnham which is a statelie bridge of stone of six arches at the least There is at the west end of the said bridge a little Iland that lieth betwixt this and another bridge of foure pretie arches and vnder this later runneth a good round streame which as I take it is a branch of Auon that breaketh out a little aboue soone after it reuniteth it selfe againe or else that Wilton water hath there his entrie into the Auon which I cannot yet determine From Harneham bridge it goeth to Dounton that is about foure miles and so much in like sort from thence to Fordingbridge to Kingwood bridge fiue miles to Christes church Twinham fiue miles and streight into the sea and hitherto Leland of this streame which for the worthinesse thereof in mine opinion is not sufficientlie described Wherefore I thinke good to deliuer a second receiued of another which in more particular maner dooth exhibit his course vnto vs. Certes this Auon is a goodlie riuer rising as I said before néere vnto Wolfe hall although he that will séeke more scrupulouslie for the head in déed must looke for the same about the borders of the forrest of Sauernake that is Soure oke which lieth as if it were imbraced betwéene the first armes thereof as I haue beene informed These heads also doo make a confluence by east of Martinshall hill and west of Wootton From whence it goeth to Milton Powseie Manningfield abbeie Manningfield crosse and beneath Newington taketh in one rill west from Rudborow and another a little lower that riseth also west of Alcanninges and runneth into the same by Patneie Merden Wilford Charleton and Rustisall Being therefore past Newington it goeth to Uphauen whereof Leland speaketh to Chesilburie Compton Ablington little Almsburie Darntford Woodford old Salisburie and so to new Salisburie where it receiueth one notable riuer from by northwest another from north east which two I will first describe leauing the Auon at Salisburie for a while The first of these is called the Wilugh whereof the whole shire dooth take hir name and not of the great plentie of willowes growing therein as some fantasticall heads doo imagine whereof also there is more plentie in that countrie than is to be found in other places It riseth among the Deuerels and running thence by hill Deuerell Deuerell long bridge it goeth toward Bishops straw taking in one rill by west another from Upton by Werminster at northwest From Bishops straw it goeth to Norton Upton Badhampton Steplinford and Stapleford where it meeteth with the Winterburie water from by north descending from Maddenton by Winterburne From Stapleford it hasteth to Wishford Newton Chilhampton Wilton and thither commeth a water vnto it from southwest which riseth of two heads aboue Ouerdonet After this it goeth by Wordcastell to Tisburie and there receiueth a water on ech side whereof one commeth from Funthill the other from two issues of which one riseth at Austie the other at Swalodise and so keeping on still with his course our Wilugh runneth next of all by Sutton Thence it goeth to Fouant Boberstocke Southburcombe Wilton where it taketh in the Fomington or Nader water Westharnam Salisburie and Eastharnam and this is the race of Wilugh The other is a naked arme or streame without anie branches It riseth aboue Colingburne Kingston in the hils and thence it goeth to Colingburne the Tidworths whereof the more southerlie is in Wiltshire Shipton Cholterton Newton Toneie Idmerson Porton the Winterburns Lauerstocke and so into Auon east of Salisburie And thus is the confluence made of the aforesaid waters with this our second Auon whereinto another water falleth calleth Becquithes brooke a mile beneath Harneham bridge whose head is fiue miles from Sarum and thrée miles aboue Becquithes bridge as Leland dooth remember who noteth the Chalkeburne water to haue his due recourse also at this place into the aforesaid riuer Certes it is a pretie brooke and riseth six miles from Shaftesburie and in the
waie toward Salisburie in a bottome on the right hand whence it commeth by Knighton and Fennistratford to Honington that is about twelue miles from the head and about two miles and an halfe from Honington beneath Oâ—stocke goeth into the Auon a mile lower than Harnham bridge except he forget himselfe This Harnham whereof I now intreat was sometime a pretie village before the erection of new Salisburie and had a church of S. Martin belonging vnto it but now in stéed of this church there is onelie a barne standing in a verie low mead on the northside of S. Michaels hospitall The cause of the relinquishing of it was the moistnesse of the soile verie oft ouerflowne And whereas the kings high waie laie sometimes through Wilton licence was obteined of the king and Richard bishop of Salisburie to remooue that passage vnto new Salisburie in like maner and vpon this occasion was the maine bridge made ouer Auon at Harneham By this exchange of the waie also old Salisburie fell into vtter decaie Wilton which was before the head towne of the shire and furnished with twelue parish churches grew to be but a poore village and of small reputation Howbeit this was not the onelie cause of the ruine of old Salisburie sith I read of two other whereof the first was a salue vnto the latter as I take it For whereas it was giuen out that the townesmen wanted water in old Salisburie it is flat otherwise sith that hill is verie plentifullie serued with springs and wels of verie swéet water The truth of the matter therefore is this In the time of ciuill warres the souldiors of the castell and chanons of old Sarum fell at ods insomuch that after often bralles they fell at last to sad blowes It happened therefore in a rogation weeke that the cleargie going in solemne procession a controuersie fell betwéene them about certeine walkes and limits which the one side claimed and the other denied Such also was the hot intertainment on ech part that at the last the Castellanes espieng their time gate betwéene the cleargie and the towne and so coiled them as they returned homeward that they feared anie more to gang about their bounds for the yeare Héerevpon the people missing their bellie cheare for they were woont to haue banketing at euerie station a thing commonlie practised by the religious in old time wherewith to linke in the commons vnto them whom anie man may lead whither he will by the bellie or as Latimer said with beefe bread and beere they conceiued foorthwith a deadlie hatred against the Castellans But not being able to cope with them by force of armes they consulted with Richard Pore their bishop and he with them so effectuallie that it was not long yer they I meane the chanons began a new church vpon a péece of their owne ground called Mirifield pretending to serue God there in better safetie and with far more quietnesse than they could doo before This church was begun 1219 the nine and twentith of Aprill and finished with the expenses of 42000 marks in the yeare 1260 and fiue twentith of March whereby it appeereth that it was aboue fortie yéers in hand although the clearks were translated to the new towne 1220 or the third yeere after the fraie The people also séeing the diligence of the chanons and reputing their harmes for their owne inconuenience were as earnest on the other sidâ— to be néere vnto these prelats and therefore euerie man brought his house vnto that place thus became old Sarum in few yeeres vtterlie desolate and new Salisburie raised vp in stéed thereof to the great decaie also of Harnham and Wilton whereof I spake of late Neuerthelesse it should séeme to me that this new citie is not altogither void of some great hinderances now and then by water for in the second of Edward the second who held a parlement there there was a sudden thaw after a great frost which caused the waters so fast to arise that euen at high masse time the water came into the minster and not onelie ouerflowed the nether part of the same but came vp all to the kings pauase where he sate whereby he became wetshod and in the end inforced to leaue the church as the executour did his masse least they should all haue béene drowned and this rage indured there for the space of two daies wherevpon no seruice could be said in the said minster Now to returne againe from whence I thus digressed Our Auon therefore departing from Salisburie goeth by Burtford Longford and taking in the waters afore mentioned by the waie it goeth by Stanleie Dunketon Craiford Burgate Fording bridge Kingwood Auon Christes church and finallie into the sea But yer it come all there a litle beneth Christes church it crosseth the Stoure or Sâ—ure a verie faire streame whose course is such as may not be left vntouched It riseth of six heads whereof of thrée lie on the north side of the parke at 〈◊〉 within the pale the other rise without the parke of this riuer the towne and baronie of Sturfon dooth take his name as I gesse for except my memorie do too much faile me the lord Sturton giueth the six heads of the said water in his armes But to procéed After these branâ—hes are conioined in one bottome it goeth to long Laime mill Stilton Milton and beneath Gillingham receiueth a water that descendeth from Mere. Thence the Sture goeth to Bugleie Stoure Westouer bridge Stoure prouost and yer long it taketh in the Cale water from Pen that commeth downe by Wickhampton to Moreland so to Stapleford seuen miles from Wickhampton passing in the said voiage by Wine Caunton and the fiue bridges After this confluence it runneth to Hinton Maries and soone after crosseth the Lidden and Deuilis waters all in one chanell whereof the first riseth in Blackemore vale and goeth to the bishops Caundell the second in the hils south of Pulham and so runneth to Lidlinch the third water issueth néere Ibberton and going by Fifehed to Lidlington and there méeting with the Lidden they receiue the Blackewater aboue Bagburne and so go into the Stoure After this the Stoure runneth on to Stoureton minster Fitleford Hammond and soone after taking in one water that commeth from Hargraue by west Orchard and a second from Funtmill it goeth on to Chele Ankeford Handford Durweston Knighton Brainston Blandford Charleton and crossing yer long a rill that riseth about Tarrent and goeth to Launston Munketon Caunston Tarrant it proceedeth foorth by Shepwâ—â—â— and by and by receiuing another brooke on the right hand that riseth about Strictland and goeth by Quarleston Whitchurch Anderston and Winterburne it hasteth forward to Stoureminster Berford lake Alen bridge Winburne alià s Twinburne minster whither commeth a water called Alen from Knolton Wikehampton Estambridge Hinton Barnsleie which hath two heads whereof one riseth short of Woodcotes and east of
Going by Portland and the point thereof called the Rase we sailed along by the Shingle till we came by saint Katharins chappell where we saw the fall of a water that came downe from Blackdéene Beaconward by Portsham and Abbatsburie Thence we went to another that fell into the sea neere Birton and descended from Litton by Chilcombe then vnto the Bride or Brute port a pretie hauen and the riuer it selfe serued with sundrie waters It riseth halfe a mile or more aboue Bemister and so goeth from Bemister to Netherburie by Parneham then to Melplash and so to Briteport where it taketh in two waters from by east in one chanell of which one riseth east of Nettlecourt and goeth by Porestoke and Milton the other at Askerwell and runneth by Longlether From hence also our Bride going toward the sea taketh the Simen on the west that commeth by Simensburge into the same the whole streame soone after falling into the sea and leauing a pretie haue not The next port is the Chare serued with two rits in one confluence beneath Charemouth The cheefe head of this riuer is as Leland saith in Marshwood parke and commeth downe by Whitechurch the other runneth by west of Wootton and méeting beneath Charemouth towne as I said dooth fall into the sea Then came we to the Cobbe and beheld the Lime water which the townesmen call the Buddle which commeth about thrée miles by north of Lime from the hils fleting vpon Rockie soile and so falleth into the sea Certes there is no hauen héere that I could sée but a quarter of a mile by west southwest of the towne is a great and costlie iuttie in the sea for succour of ships The towne is distant from Coliton about fiue miles And heere we ended our voiage from the Auon which conteineth the whole coast of Dorcester or Dorcetshire so that next we must enter into Summerset countie and see what waters are there The first water that we méet withall in Summersetshire is the Axe which riseth in a place called Are knoll longing to sir Giles Strangwaie néere vnto Cheddington in Dorsetshire from whence it runneth to Mosterne Feborow Claxton Weiford bridge Winsham foord and receiuing one rill from the east by Hawkechurch and soone after another comming from northwest by Churchstoke from Wainbroke it goeth to Axeminster beneath which it crosseth the Yare that commeth from about Buckland by Whitstaunton Yarecombe Long bridge Stockeland Kilmington bridge where it receiueth a brooke from by south that runneth by Dalwood and so into the Axe From hence our Axe goeth to Drake Musburie Culliford but yer it come altogither at Culliford it méeteth with a water that riseth aboue Cotleie and goeth from thence by Widworthie Culliton and there receiuing a rill also procéedeth on after the confluence aboue Culliford bridge into the Axe and from thence hold on togither into the maine sea whereinto they fall vnder the roots of the winter cliffes the points of them being almost a mile in sunder The most westerlie of them called Berewood lieth within halfe a mile of Seton But the other toward the east is named White-cliffe of which I saie no more but that in the time of Athelstane the greatest nauie that euer aduentured into this Iland arriued at Seton in Deuonshire being replenished with aliens that sought the conquest of this Iland but Athelstane met and incountered with them in the field where he ouerthrew six thousand of his aforesaid enimies Not one of them also that remained aliue escaped from the battell without some deadlie or verie gréeuous wound In this conflict moreouer were slaine fiue kings which were interred in the churchyard of Axe minster and of the part of the king of England were killed eight earles of the chéefe of his nobilitie and they also buried in the churchyard aforesaid Héervnto it addeth how the bishop of Shireburne was in like sort slaine in this battell that began at Brunedune neere to Coliton and indured euen to Axe minster which then was called Brunberie or Brunburg The same daie that this thing happened the sunne lost his light and so continued without anie brightnesse vntill the setting of that planet though otherwise the season was cléere and nothing cloudie As for the hauen which in times past as I haue heard hath béene at Sidmouth so called of Sidde a rillet that runneth thereto and likewise at Seton I passe it ouer sith now there is none at all Yet hath there béene sometime a notable one albeit that at this present betweene the two points of the old hauen there lieth a mightie bar of pibble stones in the verie mouth of it and the riuer Axe is driuen to the verie east point of the hauen called White cliffe Thereat also a verie little gull goeth into the sea whither small fisherbotes doo oft resort for succour The men of Seton began of late to stake and make a maine wall within the hauen to haue changed the course of the Axe and almost in the middle of the old hauen to haue trenched through the Chesill thereby to haue let out the Axe to haue taken in the maine sea but I heare of none effect that this attempt did come vnto From Seton westward lieth Coliton about two miles by west northwest whereof riseth the riuer Colie which going by the aforesaid towne passeth by Colecombe parke and afterward falleth betweene Axe bridge and Axe mouth towne into the Axe riuer By west of Bereworth point lieth a créeke serued so farre as I remember with a fresh water that commeth from the hilles south of Soutleie or Branscombe Sidmouth hauen is the next and thither commeth a fresh water by S. Maries from the said hils that goeth from S. Maries aforesaid to Sidburie betweene Saltcombe Sidmouth into the maine sea By west of Auterton point also lieth another hauen and thither commeth a pretie riueret whose head is in the Hackpendon hilles and commeth downe first by Upauter then by a parke side to Mohuns Auter Munketon Honniton Buckewell and north of Autrie receiueth a rill called Tale that riseth northwest of Brodemburie in a wood and from whence it commeth by Pehemburie Uinniton and making a confluence with the other they go as one betwéene Cadde and Autrie to Herford Luton Collaton Auterton Budeleie and so into the sea On the west side of this hauen is Budeleie almost directly against Otterton It is easie to be seene also that within lesse space than one hundred yeers ships did vse this hauen but now it is barred vp Some call it Budeleie hauen of Budeleie towne others Salterne port of a little créeke comming out of the maine hauen vnto Salterne village that hath in time past béene a towne of great estimation The Exe riseth in Exemore in Summersetshire néere vnto Exe crosse and goeth from thence vnto Exeford Winsford and Extun where it receiueth a water comming from Cutcombe
by north After this confluence it goeth on toward the south till it méet with a pretie brooke rising northeast of Whettell going by Brunton Regis increased at the least with thrée rilles which come all from by north These being once met this water runneth on by west of the beacon that beareth the name of Haddon soone after taketh in the Barleie that receiueth in like sort the Done at Hawkbridge and from hence goeth by Dauerton and Combe and then doth méet with the Exe almost in the verie confines betwéene Dorset Summerset shires Being past this coniunction our Exe passeth betwéene Brushford and Murbath and then to Exe bridge where it taketh in as I heare a water by west from east Austie and after this likewise another on ech side whereof one commeth from Dixford and Baunton the other called Woodburne somewhat by east of Okeford From these meetings it goeth to Caue and through the forrest and woods to Hatherland and Washfields vntill it come to Tiuerton and here it receiueth the Lomund water that riseth aboue Ashbrittle commeth downe by Hockworthie vpper Loman and so to Tiuerton that standeth almost euen in the verie confluence Some call this Lomund the Simming brooke or Sunnings bath After this our Exe goeth to Bickleie Theuerten taking in a rill by west nether Exe Bramford beneath which it ioineth with the Columbe that riseth of one head northeast of Clarie Haidon and of another south of Shildon and méeting beneath Columbe stocke goeth by Columbe and Bradfeld and there crossing a rill that commeth by Ashford it runneth south to Wood More haies Columbton Brandnicke Beare Columbe Iohn Horham and ioining as I said with the Exe at Bramford passing vnder but one bridge yer it meet with another water by west growing of the Forten and Cride waters except it be so that I doo iudge amisse The Cride riseth aboue Wolle sworthie and néere vnto Upton after it is past Dewrish crosseth a rill from betweene Puggill and Stockeleie by Stocke English c. From hence it goeth to Fulford where it méeteth with the Forten wherof one branch commeth by Caldbrooke the other from S. Marie Tedburne and ioining aboue Crediton the chanell goeth on to the Cride which yer long also receiueth another from by north comming by Stockeleie and Combe then betwéene Haine and Newton Sires to Pines and so into the Exe which staieth not vntill it come to Excester From Excester whither the burgesses in time past laboured to bring the same but in vaine it runneth to Were there taking in a rill from by west and an other lower by Exminster next of all vnto Toppesham beneath which towne the Cliue entreth thereinto which rising about Plumtree goeth by Clift Haidon Clift Laurence Brode Clift Honiton Souton Bishops Clift S. Marie Clift Clift saint George and then into the Exe that runneth forward by Notwell court Limston and Ponderham castell Here as I heare it taketh in the Ken or Kenton brooke as Leland calleth it comming from Holcombe parke by Dunsdike Shillingford Kenford Ken Kenton and so into Exe hauen at whose mouth lie certeine rocks which they call the CheckstonÌ„es except I be deceiued The next fall whereof Leland saith nothing at all commeth by Ashcombe and Dulish and hath his head in the hilles thereby The Teigne mouth is the next fall that he came to it is a goodlie port foure miles from Exemouth The head of this water is twentie miles from the sea at Teigne head in Dartmore among the Gidleie hilles From whence it goeth to Gidleie towne Teignton drue where it receiueth the Crokerne comming from by north and likewise an other west of Fulford parke Then it goeth to Dufford Bridford Kirslowe Chidleie Knighton and beneath the bridge there receiueth the Bouie whose course is to north Bouie Lilleie and Bouitracie Thence it runneth to kings Teignton taking in Eidis a brooke beneath Preston that commeth from Edeford by the waie And when it is past this confluence at kings Teignton it crosseth the Leman which commeth from Saddleton rocke by Beckington and Newton Bushels and soone after the Aller that riseth betwéene Danburie and Warog well afterward falling into the sea by Bishops Teignton south of Teignmouth towne The verie vtter west point of the land at the mouth of Teigne is called the Nesse and is a verie high red cliffe The east part of the hauen is named the Poles a low sandie ground either cast vp by the spuing of the sand out of the Teigne or else throwne vp from the shore by the rage of wind and water This sand occupieth now a great quantitie of the ground betweene the hauen where the sand riseth and Teignmouth towne which towne surnamed Regis hath in time past béen sore defaced by the Danes and of late timeby the French From Teignemouth we came to Tor baie wherof the west point is called Birie and the east Perritorie betwéene which is little aboue foure miles From Tor baie also to Dartmouth is six miles where saith Leland I marked diuerse things First of all vpon the east side of the hauen a great hillie point called Downesend and betwixt Downesend and a pointlet named Wereford is a little baie Were it selfe in like sort is not full a mile from Downesend vpward into the hauen Kingswere towne standeth out as another pointlet and betwixt it Wereford is the second baie Somewhat moreouer aboue Kingswere towne goeth a little créeke vp into the land from the maine streame of the hauen called Waterhead and this is a verie fit place for vessels to be made in In like sort halfe a mile beyond this into the landward goeth another longer créeke and aboue that also a greater than either of these called Gawnston whose head is here not halfe a mile from the maine sea by the compassing thereof as it runneth in Tor baie The riuer of Dart or Darent for I read Derenta muth for Dartmouth commeth out of Dartmore fiftéene miles aboue Totnesse in a verie large plot and such another wild morish forrestie ground as Ermore is Of it selfe moreouer this water is verie swift and thorough occasion of tin-workes whereby it passeth it carrieth much sand to Totnesse bâ—â—dge and so choketh the depth of the riuer downeward that the hauen it selfe is almost spoiled by the same The mariners of Dartmouth accompt this to be about a kenning from Plimmouth The Darent therefore proceeding from the place of his vprising goeth on to Buckland from whence it goeth to Buckland hole and soone after taking in the Ashburne water on the one side that runneth from Saddleton rocke by north and the Buckfastlich that commeth from north west it runneth to Staunton Darington Hemston and there also crossing a rill on ech side passeth foorth to Totnesse Bowden and aboue Gabriell Stoke méeteth with the Hartburne that runneth vnder Rost bridge two
a rill by east from aboue Kellington it runneth on to Newton Pillaton Wootton Blosfleming saint Erne and beneath this village crosseth a rillet that runneth thither from Bicton by Quithiocke saint Germans and Sheuiocke But to procéed After the confluence it goeth betweene Erlie and Fro Martine castell and soone after taking in a rill from by north that passeth west of saint Steuens it is not long yer it fall into the Thamar which after this receiuing the Milbrooke creeke goeth on by Edgecombe and betwéene saint Michaels Ile and Ridden point into the maine sea And thus haue I finished the description of Plimmouth water and all such falles as are betwéene Mewston rocke on the east side and the Ram head on the other After this we procéeded on with our iournie toward the west and passing by Longstone we came soone after to Sothan baie where we crossed the Seton water whose head is about Liscard his course by Minheniet Chafrench Tregowike Sutton and so into the sea Then came we to Low and going in betwéene it and Mount I le we find that it had a branched course and thereto the confluence aboue Low The chiefe head riseth in the hils as it were two miles aboue Gaine and going by that towne it ceaseth not to continue his course east of Dulo till it come a little aboue Low where it crosseth and ioineth with the Brodoke water that runneth from Brodokes by Trewargo and so into the sea Next vnto these are two other rils of which one is called Polpir before we come at Foy or Fawy Foy or Fawy riuer riseth in Fawy moore on the side of an hill in Fawy moore from whence it runneth by certeine bridges till it méet with the Glin water west of Glin towne which rising aboue Temple méeting with a rill that commeth in from S. Neotes doth fall into Fawy a mile and more aboue Resprin from by east After this confluence then it goeth to Resprin bridge Lestermen castell Loftwithiell bridge Pill saint Kingtons saint Winnow and Golant and here also receiueth the Lerine water out of a parke that taketh his waie into the maine streame by Biconke Tethe and the Fining house Being thus vnited it proceedeth vnto Fawy towne taking in a rill or creeke from aboue it on the one side and another beneath it south of Halling on the other of which two this latter is the longest of course fith it runneth thrée good miles before it come at the Foy. Leland writing of this riuer addeth verie largelie vnto it after this maner The Fawy riseth in Fawy moore about two miles from Camilford by south and sixtéene miles from Fawy towne in a verie quaue mire on the side of an hill From hence it goeth to Drainesbridge to Clobham bridge Lergen bridge New bridge Resprin bridge and Lostwithiell bridge where it meeteth with a little brooke and néere therevnto parteth it selfe in twaine Of these two armes therefore one goeth to a bridge of stone the other to another of timber and soone after ioining againe the maine riuer goeth to saint Gwinnowes from thence also to the point of saint Gwinnowes wood which is about halfe a mile from thence except my memorie dooth faile me Here goeth in a salt créeke halfe a mile on the east side of the hauen and at the head of it is a bridge called Lerine bridge the créeke it selfe in like maner bearing the same denomination From Lerine creeke to S. Caracs pill or créeke is about halfe a mile and Lower on the east side of the said hauen it goeth vp also aboue a mile and an halfe into the land From Caracs créeke to Poulmorland a mile and this likewise goeth vp scant a quarter of a mile into the land yet at the head it parteth it selfe in twaine From Poulmorland weto Bodnecke village halfe a mile where the passage and repassage is commonlie to Fawy From Bodnecke to Pelene point where a créeke goeth vp not fullie a thousand paces into the land a mile thence to Poulruan a quarter of a mile and at this Poulruan is a tower of force marching against the tower on Fawy side betwéene which as I doo heare a chaine hath sometime beene stretched and likelie inough for the hauen there is hardly two bow shot ouer The verie point of land at the east side of the mouth of this hauen is called Pontus crosse but now Panuchecrosse It shall not be amisse in this place somewhat to intreat of the towne of Fawy which is called in Cornish Comwhath and being situat on the north-side of the hauen is set hanging on a maine rockie hill being in length about one quarter of a mile except my memorie deceiue me The renowme of Fawy rose by the wars vnder king Edward the first Edward the third and Henrie the fift partlie by feats of armes and partlie by plaine pirasie Finallie the townesmen feeling themselues somwhat at ease and strong in their purses they fell to merchandize and so they prospered in this their new deuise that as they trauelled into all places so merchants from all countries made resort to them whereby within a while they grew to be exceeding rich The ships of Fawy sailing on a time by Rhie and Winchelseie in the time of king Edward the third refused stoutlie to vale anie bonet there although warning was giuen them so to doo by the portgreues or rulers of those townes Herevpon the Rhie and Winchelseie men made out vpon them with cut and long taile but so hardlie were they interteined by the Fawy pirates I should saie aduenturers that they were driuen home againe with no small losse and hinderance Such fauour found the Fawy men also immediatlie vpon this bickering that in token of their victorie ouer their winching aduersaries and riding ripiers as they called them in mockerie they altered their armes and compounded for new wherein the scutchion of Rhie and Winchelseie is quartered with theirs and beside this the Foyens were called the gallants of Fawy or Foy whereof they not a little reioised and more peraduenture than for some greater bootie And thus much of Fawy towne wherein we sée what great successe often commeth of witlesse and rash aduentures But to returne againe to our purpose from whence we haue digressed and as hauing some desire to finish vp this our voiage we will leaue the Fawmouth go forward on our iournie Being therefore past this hauen we come into Trewardith baie which lieth into the land betwéene Canuasse and the Blacke head point and hereabout Leland placeth Vrctoum promontorium In this we saw the fall of two small brookes not one verie far distant from another The first of them entring west of Trewardith the other east of saint Blaies and both directlie against Curwarder rocke except I mistake my compasse Neither of them are of anie great course and the longest not full thrée miles and an halfe Wherfore sith
they are neither branched nor of anie great quantitie what should I make long haruest of a little corne and spend more time than may well be spared about them When we were past the Blacke head we came to Austell brooke which is increased with a water that commeth from aboue Mewan and within a mile after the confluence they fall into the sea at Pentoren from whence we went by the Blacke rocke and about the Dudâ—â—an point till we came to Chare haies where falleth in a pretie water whose head is two miles aboue saint Tues Thence we went by here and there a méere salt créeke till we passed the Graie rocke in Giâ—inâ—raith baie and S. Anthonies point where Leland maketh his accompt to enter into Falamouth hauen The Fala riseth a little by north of Penuenton towne and going westward till it come downwards toward saint Dionise it goeth from thence to Melader saint Steuens Grampont Goldon Crede Corneleie Tregue Moran Treguâ—â—an it falleth into the hauen with a good indifferent force and this is the course of Fala But least I should séeme to omit those creekes that are betwéene this and S. Anthonies point I will go a little backe againe and fetch in so maniâ— of them as come now to my remembrance Entring therefore into the port we haue a créeke that runneth vp by saint Anthonies toward saint Gereus then another that goeth into the land by east of saint Maries castell with a forked head passing in the meane time by a great rocke that lieth in the verie midst of the hauen in maner of the third point of a triangle betwéene saint Maries castell and Pendinant Thence we cast about by the said castell and came by another créeke that falleth in by east then the second aboue saint Iustus the third at Ardenora the fourth at Rilan And hauing as it were visited all these in order we come backe againe about by Tregonnian and then going vpward betweene it and Taluerne till we came to Fentangolan we found the confluence of two great creekes beneath saint Clements whereof one hath a fresh water comming downe by S. Merâ—her the other another from Truro increased with sundrie branches though not one of them of anie greatnesse and therefore vnworthie to be handled Pole hole standeth vpon the head almost of the most easterlie of them S. Kenwen and Truro stand aboue the confluence of other two The fourth falleth in by west from certeine hils as for the fift and sixt as they be little créeks and no fresh so haue I lesse language and talke to spend about them Of saint Caie and saint Feokes créeke whose issue is betwéene Restronget and créeke of Trurie I sée no cause to make any long spéech yet I remember that the towne of S. Feoke standeth betwéene them both That also called after this saint rising aboue Perannarwothill and comming thence by Kirklo falleth into Falamouth northeast of Milor which standeth vpon the point betwéene it and Milor créeke Milor creeke is next Restronget some call it Milor poole from whence we went by Trefusis point and there found an other great fall from Perin which being branched in the top hath Perin towne almost in the verie confluence And thus much by my collection of the fall But for somuch as Leland hath taken some paines in the description of this riuer I will not suffer it to perish sith there is other matter conteined therein worthie remembrance although not deliuered in such order as the thing it selfe requireth The verie point saith he of the hauen mouth being an hill whereon the king hath builded a castell is called Pendinant It is about a mile in compasse almost inuironed with the sea and where the sea couereth not the ground is so low that it were a small mastrie to make Pendinant an Iland Furthermore there lieth a cape or foreland within the hauen a mile and a halfe and betwixt this and maister Killigrewes house one great arme of the hauen runneth vp to Penrine towne which is three miles from the verie entrie of Falamouth hauen and two good miles from Penfusis Moreouer there is Leuine Priselo betwixt saint Budocus and Pendinas which were a good hauen but for the barre of sand But to procéed The first creeke or arme that casteth on the northwest side of Falemouth hauen goeth vp to Perin and at the end it breaketh into two armes whereof the lesse runneth to Glasenith Viridis nidus the gréene nest or Wagméere at Penrine the other to saint Glunias the parish church of Penrine In like sort out of each side of Penrine créeke breaketh an arme yer it come to Penrine This I vnderstand also that stakes and foundations of stone haue béene set in the créeke at Penrine a litle lower than the wharfe where it breakech into armes but howsoeuer this standeth betwixt the point of Trefusis and the point of Restronget is Milor créeke which goeth vp a mile into the land and by the church is a good rode for ships The next creeke beyond the point of Restronget wood is called Restronget which going two miles vp into the maine breaketh into two armes In like order betwixt Restronget and the creeke of Trurie be two créekes one called saint Feokes the other saint Caie next vnto which is Trurie créeke that goeth vp about two miles creeking from the principall streame and breaketh within halfe a mile of Trurie casting in a branch westward euen hard by Newham wood This creeke of Trurie is diuided into two parts before the towne of Trurie and each of them hauing a brooke comming downe and a bridge the towne of Trurie standeth betwixt them both In like sort Kenwen stréet is seuered from the said towne with this arme and Clements street by east with the other Out of the bodie also of Trurie creeke breaketh another eastward a mile from Crurie and goeth vp a mile and a halfe to Cresilian bridge of stone At the verie entrie and mouth of this créeke is a rode of ships called Maples rode and here fought not long since eightéene ships of Spanish merchants with foure ships of warre of Deepe but the Spaniards draue the Frenchmen all into this harborow A mile and an halfe aboue the mouth of Crurie creeke is another named Lhan Moran of S. Morans church at hand This créeke goeth vp a quarter of a mile from the maine streame into the hauen as the maine streame goeth vp two miles aboue Moran créeke ebbing and flowing and a quarter of a mile higher is the towne of Cregowie where we found a bridge of stone vpon the Fala riuer Fala it selfe riseth a mile or more west of Roche hill and goeth by Graund pont where I saw a bridge of stone This Graund pont is foure miles from Roche hill and two little miles from Cregowie betwixt which the Fala taketh his course From Cregowie to passe downe by the bodie
of the hauen of Falamouth to the mouth of Lanie horne pill or créeke on the south side of the hauen is a mile and as I remember it goeth vp halfe a mile from the principall streame of the hauen From Lanihorne pill also is a place or point of sand about a mile waie of fortie acres or thereabout as a peninsula called Ardeuerauter As for the water or créeke that runneth into the south southeast part it is but a little thing of halfe a mile vp into the land and the créeke that hemmeth in this peninsula of both dooth seeme to be the greater From the mouth of the west creeke of this peninsula vnto saint Iustes creeke is foure miles or more In like maner from saint Iustes pill or créeke for both signifie one thing to saint Mawes creeke is a mile and a halfe and the point betwéene them both is called Pendinas The créeke of saint Mawes goeth vp a two miles by east northeast into the land and beside that it ebbeth and floweth so farre there is a mill driuen with a fresh créeke that resorteth to the same Halfe a mile from the head of this downeward to the hauen is a créeke in maner of a poole whereon is a mill also that grindeth with the tide And a mile beneath that on the south side entereth a créeke about halfe a mile into the countrie which is barred from the maine sea by a small sandie banke and another mile yet lower is an other little créekelet But how so euer these créekes doo run certeine it is that the bankes of them that belong to Fala are meruellouslie well woodded And hitherto Leland whose words I dare not alter for feare of corruption and alteration of his iudgement Being past Falmouth hauen therefore as it were a quarter of a mile beyond Arwennach maister Killegrewes place which standeth on the brimme or shore within Falmouth we came to a little hauen which ran vp betwéene two hilles but it was barred wherefore we could not learne whether it were serued with anie backe fresh water or not From thence we went by Polwitherall creeke parted into two armes then to the Polpenrith wherevnto a riueret falleth that riseth not farre from thence and so goeth to the maine streame of the hauen at the last whither the créeke resorteth about thrée miles and more from the mouth of the hauen and into which the water that goeth vnder Gare and Mogun bridges doo fall in one bottome as Leland hath reported Unto this hauen also repaireth the Penkestell the Callous the Cheilow and the Gilling although this latter lieth against saint Mawnons on the hither side hard without the hauen mouth if I haue doone aright For so motheaten mouldie rotten are those bookes of Leland which I haue and beside that his annotations are such and so confounded as no man can in a maner picke out anie sense from them by a leafe togither Wherefore I suppose that he dispersed and made his notes intricate of set purpose or else he was loth that anie man should easilie come to that knowledge by reading which he with his great charge no lesse trauell atteined vnto by experience Thus leauing Fala hauen as more troublesome for me to describe than profitable for seafaring men without good aduise to enter into we left the rocke on our left hand and came straight southwest to Helford hauen whose water commeth downe from Wréeke where is a confluence of two small rilles whereof that rill consisteth by Mawgan and Trelawarren and then it receiueth a rill on the north ripe from Constantine after whose confluence it goeth a maine vntill it come to the Ocean where the mouth is spoiled by sand comming from the tin-works See Leland in the life of S. Breaca Beneath this also is another rill comming from S. Martyrs by whose course and another ouer against it on the west side that falleth into the sea by Winniton all Menage is left almost in maner of an Iland From hence we go south to the Manacle point then southwest to Lisard and so north and by west to Predannocke points beyond which we méet with the fall of the said water that riseth in the edge of Menag and goeth into the sea by Melien on the north and Winniton on the south By north also of Winniton is the Curie water that runneth short of Magan and toucheth with the Ocean south of Pengwenian point From hence we sailed to the Loo mouth which some call Lopoole because it is narrower at the fall into the sea than it is betwéene the sea and Hailston It riseth aboue S. Sethians and comming downe by Wendron it hasteth to Hailston or Helston from whence onelie it is called Loo but betwéene Helston and the head men call it commonlie Cohor Of this riuer Leland saith thus The Lopoole is two miles in length and betwixt it and the maine Ocean is but a barre of sand that once in thrée or foure yéeres what by weight of the fresh water and working of the sea breaketh out at which time it maketh a wonderfull noise but soone after the mouth of it is barred vp againe At all other times the superfluitie of the water of Lopole which is full of trout and éele draineth out through the sandie barre into the open sea certes if this barre could alwaies be kept open it would make a goodlie hauen vp vnto Haileston towne where coinage of tin is also vsed as at Trurie and Lostwithiell for the quéenes aduantage Being passed the Loo I came to another water that descendeth without anie increase from Crowan by Simneie whose whole course is not aboue thrée miles in all Then going by the Cuddan point we entered the mounts Baie and going streight north leauing S. Michaels mount a little vpon the left hand we came to the Lid which rising short of Tewidnacke descendeth by Lidgenan and so into the sea Certes the course of these waters cannot be long sith in this verie place the breadth of land is not aboue foure miles and not more than fiue at the verie lands end There is also a rill east of Korugie and Guluall and another west of the same hard at hand and likewise the third east of Pensants and not a full quarter of a mile from the second southwest of Pensants also lieth the fourth that commeth from Sancrete ward by Newlin from whence going southwest out of the baie by Moushole I le that lieth south of Moushole towne we come to a water that entreth into the Ocean betwixt Remels Lamorleie point Trulie the one head thereof commeth from by west of Sancrete the other from by west of an hill that standeth betwéene them both and ioining aboue Remels it is not long yer they salute their grandame After this and before we come at Rosecastell there are two other créekes whereof one is called Boskennie that riseth south
of saint Buriens and an other somewhat longer than the first that issueth by west of the aforesaid towne wherein is to be noted that our cards made heretofore doo appoint S. Buriens to be at the very lands end of Cornewall but experience now teacheth vs that it commeth not néere the lands end by thrée miles This latter rill also is the last that I doo reade of on the south side and likewise on the west and north till we haue sailed to S. Ies baie which is full ten miles from the lands end or Bresan I le eastward rather more if you reckon to the fall of the Haile which lieth in the very middest and highest part of the baie of the same The soile also is verie hillie here as for saint Ies towne it is almost as I said a byland and yet is it well watered with sundrie rilles that come from those hilles vnto the same The Haile riseth in such maner and from so manie heads as I haue before said howbeit I will adde somewhat more vnto it for the benefit of my readers Certes the chéefe head of Haile riseth by west of Goodalfin hilles and going downe toward saint Erthes it receiueth the second and best of the other three rilles from Goodalfin towne finallie comming to saint Erthes and so vnto the maine baie it taketh in the Clowart water from Guimer south of Phelacke which hath two heads the said village standing directlie betwixt them both The Caine riseth southeast of Caineburne towne a mile and more from whence it goeth without increase by west of Gwethian and so into the sea west of Mara Darwaie From hence we coasted about the point left the baie till we came to a water that riseth of two heads from those hilles that lie by south of the same one of them also runneth by saint Uni another by Redreuth and méeting within a mile they fall into the Ocean beneath Luggam or Tuggan A mile and a halfe from this fall we come vnto another small rill and likewise two other créekes betwixt which the towne of saint Agnes standeth and likewise the fourth halfe a mile beyond the most easterlie of these whose head is almost thrée miles within the land in a towne called saint Alin. Thence going by the Manrocke and west of saint Piran in the sand we find a course of thrée miles and more from the head and hauing a forked branch the parts doo méet at west aboue saint Kibbard and so go into the sea I take this to be saint Pirans créeke for the next is Carantocke pill or créeke whose head is at Guswarth from whence it goeth vnto Trerise and soone after taking in a rill from by west it runneth into the sea coast of saint Carantakes Beyond this is another créeke that riseth aboue little saint Colan and goeth by lesse saint Columbe and east and by north hereof commeth downe one more whose head is almost south of the Nine stones going from thence to great saint Columbes it passeth by Lamberne and so into the sea S. Merous créeke is but a little one rising west of Padstow and falling in almost ouer against the Gull rocke Then turning betwéene the point and the blacke rocke we entred into Padstow hauen thrée miles lower than port Issec and a mile from port Gwin whose waters remaine next of all to be described The Alan ariseth flat east from the hauen mouth of Padstow well néere eight or nine miles about Dauidstone neere vnto which the Eniam also issueth that runneth into the Thamar Going therefore from hence it passeth to Camelford saint Aduen saint Bernard both Cornish saints and soone after receiueth a rill at northeast descending from Rowters hill Thence it goeth to Bliseland and Helham the first bridge of name that standeth vpon Alin Yer long also it taketh in one rill by south from Bodman another from saint Laurence the third by west of this and the fourth that commeth by Wethiell no one of them excéeding the course of thrée miles and all by south From hence it goeth toward Iglesaleward and there receiueth a water on the east side which commeth about two miles from saint Teath by Michelston saint Tuchoe saint Maben mo Cornish patrons and finallie south of Iglesall méeteth with the Alen that goeth from thence by S. Breaca to Woodbridge Hereabout I find that into our Alein or Alen there should fall two riuerets whereof the one is called Carneseie the other Laine and comming in the end to full notice of the matter I sée them to issue on seuerall sides beneath Woodbridge almost directlie the one against the other That which descendeth from northwest and riseth about saint Kew is named Carneseie as I heare the other that commeth in on the southwest banke hight Laine and noted by Leland to rise two miles aboue S. Esse But howsoeuer this matter standeth there are two other créekes on ech side also beneath these as Pethrike creeke and Minner créeke so called of the Cornish saints for that soile bred manie wherewith I finish the description of Alen or as some call it Dunmere and other Padstow water From Padstow hauen also they saile out full west to Waterford in Ireland There are likewise two rockes which lie in the east side of the hauen secretlie hidden at full sea as two pads in the straw whereof I thinke it taketh the name Yet I remember how I haue read that Padstow is a corrupted word for Adlestow and should signifie so much as Athelstani locus as it may well be For it is euident that they â—ad in time past sundrie charters of priuilege from Athelstane although at this present it be well stored with Irishmen But to our purpose Leland supposeth this riuer to be the same Camblan where Arthur fought his last and fatall conflict for to this daie men that doo eare the ground there doo oft plow vp bones of a large size and great store of armour or else it may be as I rather coniecture that the Romans had some field or Castra thereabout for not long since and in the remembrance of man a brasse pot full of Romane coine was found there as I haue often heard Being thus passed Padstow hauen and after we had gone three miles from hence we came to Portgwin a poore fisher towne where I find a brooke and a péere Then I came to Portissec alià s Cunilus two miles further and found there a brooke a péere and some succor for fisher boats Next of all vnto a brooke that ran from south east directlie north into the Sauerne sea and within halfe a mile of the same laie a great blacke rocke like an Iland From this water to Treuenni is about a mile where the paroch church is dedicated to saint Simphorian and in which paroch also Tintagell or Dundagie castell standeth which is a thing inerpugnable for the situation and would be
made with little reparations one of the strongest things in England For it standeth on a great high terrible crag inuironed with the sea There is a chappell yet standing in the dungeon thereof dedicated to saint Ulet Tintagell towne and Treuenni are not a mile in sunder The next creeke is called Bosinni which is a mile from Tintagell and to the same Tredwie water resorteth and so they go to the sea betwixt two hils whereof that on the one side lieth out like an arme or cape and maketh the fashion of an hauenet or peere whither shiplets sometime doo resort for succour A frier of late daies tooke vpon him to make an hauen at this place but in vaine There lie also two blacke rocks as Ilets at the west northwest point or side of this créeke the one sauing that a little gut dooth part them ioining with the other and in these by all likelihood is great store of gulles I can not tell whether this be the water that runneth by Boscastell or not but if it be not then haue I this description of the latter Boscastell créeke that lieth east of Tintagell is but a small thing running at the most not aboue two miles into the land yet it passeth by foure townes whereof the first is called Lesneth the second saint Iuliet the third Minster and the fourth Boscastell or Bushcastell as some men doo pronounce it In Bede baie I find the Bedewater whose chiefe head is not farre from Norton Thence running to Stratâ—on it receiueth the Lancels rill before it come at Norham And here also it crosseth another whose head is east of saint Marie wâ—ke from whence it runneth by Wolston and Whalesborow and thence into the sea betweene Efford and Plough hill And thus much of the waters that lie betweene the point of Cornewall and the Hartland head vpon the north side of Cornewall Now let vs doo the like with those that remaine of Deuonshire whereof the said Hartland is the verie first point in this our poeticall voiage Hauing therefore brought Hartland point on our backs we come next of all to Barstable bar and so into the hauen where into two principall streams doo perpetuallie vnburden their chanels The first and more westerlie of these is called Ocus whose head is not farre west of the head of Darnt and doth in Darntmore Rising therefore in the aforesaid place it runneth northwest to Snorton and so to Okehampton beneath which towne it méeteth with an other water comming from southeast riseth not much west from the head of Tawe From hence it goeth to Stow Exborne Moonke Okington Iddesleie where it taketh in the Tanridge a verie pretie streamelet whose issue is not full a mile by east from the head of Thamar thrée miles by north east from Hartland Comming therefore by west and east Putford Bulworthie Bockington Newton and Shebbor it receiueth a forked rill that runneth from ech side of Bradworthie by Sutcombe Treborow Milton so to Thornebirie where méeting with an other forked water whereof one head comming from Dunsâ—and ioineth with the other north of Cockbirie it goeth with speed into the Tanridge water After this confluence it runneth on to Shéepewash by west whereof falleth in the Buckland water from by north thence to high Hainton and so to Haitherlaie north wherof it taketh in a rill from by south and endeth his race at Iddesleie by ioining with the Oke Hence then the Ocus hasteth to Dowland and betwéene it and Doulton receiueth one rill from by east as it dooth an other betwéene Doulton and Marton from by west and so procéeding on with his course it commeth cast of Torrington the lesse and taking in a water at east that runneth from thrée heads by Wollie parke betweene which Combe and Roughborow are situat it descendeth to Torington the more and meeting with the Langtrée water on the one side and the Ware brooke on the other it procéedeth to Bediford crossing a rill by the waie that commeth vnto it betwéene Annarie Littham From Bediford bridge it goeth without anie increase to Westleie Norham Appledoure and so into the hauen The Taw of both is the more noble water notwithstanding that his hauen be barred with sand and thereby dangerous and hath most rils descending into his chanell Howbeit by these two is all the hart of Deuonshire well watered on the northside of the moores The Tawy riseth directlie at south west of Throwleie and north of the head of Darnt or as Leland saith in Exmoore south east from Barstable From thence also it runneth to Sele South Taueton Cockatre Bath Northtaueton Ashridge Colridge and soone after receiueth the Bowmill créeke wherof one head riseth at Bow the other at Mill and meeting beneth Bishops Morchard they fall into the Taw north of Nimeth Rowland as I haue béene informed From hence then it runneth by Edgeforth to Chimligh by south whereof it méeteth with a rill comming downe of two heads from about Rakenford by Wetheridge and Chawleie Thence it goeth to Burrington and Chiltenholtwood and there taketh in the Moulebraie water consisting of two in one chanell wherof the Moll dooth rise aboue north Moulton and comming to Moulton receiueth another rill running from Molland and soone after the second that growing by two brookes the head of one being at Knawston and of the other west of Crokeham and both vniting themselues beneath Mariston dooth fall into the same yer long also and so go togither till it crosse the Braie which being the second of the two that maketh the Moulbraie riseth at Braie commeth by Buckland and south of Holtwood dooth make his confluence with Taw. Being past the wood it goeth on to Brightleie hall Taueton Tauestocke Berstable sometime a pretie walled towne with foure gates but now a little thing and such in déed as that the suburbes thereof are greater than it selfe I suppose that the name of this towne in the British speach was Abertaw bicause it stood toward the mouth of Taw and Berdnesse pronounced short as I gesse for Abernesse As for Staple it is an addition for a market therefore hath nothing to doo in the proper name of the towne King Athelstane is taken here for the chiefe priuileger of the towne This is also worthie to be noted hereof that the houses there are of stone as most are in all the good townes thereabout But to proceed with our purpose Beneath this towne there falleth in a water that hath one head néere about Challacombe another at east Downe whereof this descending by Stoke riuer and the other by Sherwell they vnite themselues within thrée miles of Berstaple Soone after also it taketh in another that descendeth from Bitenden by Ashford and the last of all east of saint Anthonies chappell named the Doneham bicause one head is at west Done and the other at Ham both of them méeting west
of Ash. And thus is Taue described which is no great water nor quicke streame as may appéere in Low water marke at Berstable and yet is it a pretie riueret This also is worthie to be noted thereof that it receiueth no brooke from by west whereof I would somewhat maruell if Taurige were not at hand Being past the Taue Cride baie and Bugpoint aliàs Bagpoint we go by More baie Morstone aliàs Mortstone and then toward the northeast till we come by a créekelet to Ilfare combe so to Combe Marton whereat I meane ech of them are sundrie créekes of salt water but not serued with anie fresh that I as yet doo heare of Marrie there is betwéene Martinbow Trensow a créeke that hath a backewater which descendeth from Parracombe so farre as I call to mind named Parradine becke but the greatest of all is betweene Linton and Connisberie called Ore which riseth in Summersetshire in Exmore east of Hore oke more than a mile and going by Owre falleth into the sea betwéene Linton and Conisberie so that the whole race thereof amounteth in and out to an eight miles as I haue heard reported Thus haue I finished the discourse of the waters of Deuonshire whose breadth in this place from hence ouerthwart to the Checkstones in the mouth of Ex on the south side of the I le is eight and thirtie miles or vnder fortie and so much likewise is it from Plimmouth to Hartland point but the broadest part there commeth to six and thirtie miles whereas the broadest part of Cornewall doth want two miles of fortie Being past the aforesaid limits of the counties we came to Portloch baie whither commeth a water named Loch that descendeth from Stokepero Lucham and Portloch without increase Thence to Dunsteir brooke which runneth from about Wootton and Courtneie by Tunbercombe and Dunsteir then to another that commeth west of Old Cliffe leauing a parke on the west side next of all to Watchet water whereof one head commeth from the Quantocke hils south of Bickualer by Westquantocke head and almost at Doniford receiueth the Williton becke then to east Quantocke brooke omitting a créeket next of all to Doddington water that goeth by Holford Alfoxton and afterward into the sea From hence we go by Bottesall point to Stert point where two noble riuers doo make their confluence which I will seuerallie describe as to my purpose apperteineth The first of these is called the Iuell or as I find it in an ancient writer Yoo who saith that the riuer Yoo dooth runne from Ilchester to Bridgewater and so into the sea It riseth aboue Oburne and at Shirburne receiueth a water whereof Leland saith thus There are seuen springs in an hill called the seuen sisters north east from Shireburne which gather into one bottome come into the Mere. Another brooke likewise commeth by Heidon from Puscandell three miles from thence by flat east betwixt the parke and the Mere full so great as the streame of the Mere and ioining at the lower mill of Shireburne with the Mere water it is not long yer it fall into the Euill Thence our Euill goeth on towards Glasen Bradford and yer it come there taketh in a forked rill from by south descending from about west Chelburie and Chetnall in Dorsetshire beneath which towne the other head falleth into the same so that they run foorth by Bearhaggard and Thorneford till they méet with the Iuell and so to Clifton Euill a proper market towne Trent Mutford Ashinton and east of Limminton it méeteth with the Cade that runneth from Yarlington by north Cadbirie and soone after crossing a rill also from by east that commeth from Blackeford by Compton it hasteth to south Cadbirie Sparkeford Queenes Camell west Camell and so into Iuell which runneth on to Kimmington Ilchester Ilbridge long Sutton and yer it come at Langport taketh in two famous waters in one chanell next of all to be remembred before I go anie further The first of all these riseth southeast betwéene the Parrets where it is called Parret water and goeth to Crokehorne and at Meriot taketh in a brooke from the east which consisteth of two courses vnited at Bowbridge whereof the one descendeth from Pen by Hasilburie the other from aboue the thrée Chenocks as I doo vnderstand From hence also they go as one with the Parret water toward south Pederton taking in at east a becke comming from Hamden hill thence to Pederton Lambrooke Thorneie bridge and Muchelneie where it méeteth with the second called Ill or Ilus whose head is aboue Chellington comming downe from thence by Cadworth before it come at Dunniet it taketh in a rill that runneth by Chascombe and Knoll Thence leauing Ilmister on the east side it meeteth with another from by east descending from about Whitlakington Then it goeth to Pokington where it crosseth the Ilton water by west next to Ilbruers and there it ioineth with a rillet that riseth by west at Staple and runneth by Bicknell and Abbats Ilie and after this confluence goeth on toward Langport And here after some mens opinion the Iuell looseth his name and is called Parret but this coniecture cannot hold sith in the old writers it is called Iuell till it fall into the sea Neuerthelesse how soeuer this matter standeth being past Langport it goeth by Awber toward saint Anthonies where it méeteth with the Tone next of all to be described The Tone issueth at Clatworthie and goeth by west of Wiuelscombe to Stawleie Ritford Runton Wellington and Bradford beneath which it taketh in a faire water cōming from Sanford Combe Elworthie Brunt Rafe Miluerton Oke and Hilfarens After this confluence also it runneth to Helebridge and there below méeteth with one water that runneth by Hawse Hethford and Norton then another from Crokeham by bishops Slediard and the third fourth at Taunton that descendeth from Kingston by north and another by south that riseth about Pidmister And thus is the Tone increased which goeth from Taunton to Riston Crech Northcurrie Ling and so by Anthonie into the Iuell that after this confluence méeteth yer long with the Chare a pretie riuer that commeth by east from Northborow by Carleton Badcare Litecare Somerton Higham Audrie moore Audrie and Michelsborow From whence going on betweene Quéenes moore and North moore it receiueth one brooke called Peder from by southwest that runneth through Pederton parke and North moore and likewise another that passeth by Durleie yer it doo come at Bridgewater From Bridgewater it goeth by Chilton directlie north west and then turning flat west it goeth northward towards the sea taking in two waters by the waie whereof one runneth by Coripole Camington and beareth the name of Camington the other by Siddington and Comage and then receiuing the Brier before it come at Start point they fall as one into the Ocean whereof let
this suffice for the description of the Iuell whose streame dooth water all the west part of Summersetshire and leaueth it verie fruitfull The Brier Bruer or Bréer riseth of two waters wherof one is in Selwood forrest commeth downe by Bruecombe Bruham and Bruton The other which Leland nameth Mellos is northest of Staffordell towne and going by the same it runneth by Redlinch to Wike where it méeteth with the other head and thence go on as one to Awnsford Alford where it taketh in a water called Dulis from by north that riseth néere Dolting and commeth by Euerchurch parke then to the Lidfords Basborow wood the Tor hill Pont perilous whereinto they fable that Arthur being wounded to death did throw Calibur his sword by Glastenburie and so into the Méere Beside this riuer there are two other also that fall into the said Méere whereof the one called Sowaie commeth from Créechurch parke and Pulton by Hartlacke bridge the other named Cos or the Coscombe water from aboue Shepton Mallet which east of Wike taketh in a water comming from Welles by Wike Gedneie and so into the Méere Finallie returning all into one chanell it runneth to Burtlehouse and soone after diuiding it selfe one arme goeth by Bastian aliàs Brent bridge to High bridge leauing Huntspill a market towne by southwest the other by Marke to Rokes bridge Hebbes passage and so into the sea leauing a faire Iland wherin beside Brentmarsh are seuen or eight townes of whose names I haue no knowledge Now as touching the water that commeth from Welles which falleth as I said into the Coscombe water on the right hand of the Cawseie you shall vnderstand that as manie springs are in Wels so the chiefe of them is named Andres well which riseth in a medow plat not farre from the east end of the cathedrall church and afterward goeth into the Coscombe in such place as I haue noted Leland speaketh of the Milton Golafer waters which should fall likewise into the Brier but whether those be they whereof the one riseth aboue Staffordell and in the descent runneth by Shipton Pitcombe and so to Awnsford on the one side as the other dooth rise betwéene Batcombe and Upton noble on the other halfe or vnto whether of them either of these names are seuerallie to be attributed as yet I doo not read The second Axe which commeth by Axe towne in old time called Uexa issueth out of Owkie hole from whence it goeth by Owkie towne afterward meeting with the Chederbrooke that commeth from the Cheder rocks wherein is an hole in old time called Carcer Aeoli wherof much hath béene written surmised past credit It runneth by Were Ratcliffe and after a little compasse into the northeast branch of the aforesaid riuer last described betweene Rokes bridge and Hebbes passage as I haue beene informed From the fall of Axe we come to an other called Bane northeast of Woodspring whose head is about Banwell parke or else in Smaldon wood Then to an other and to the third called Artr◠which riseth about Litton and going by the Artroes Ubbeie Perribridge receiuing a rill yer it come thither from by south beneath Cungesbirie or as I learne betwéene Kingston and Laurence Wike it méeteth with the sea Sottespill water riseth betwéene Cheueleie and Naileseie howbeit it hath no increase before it come into the sea at Sottespill more than the next vnto it which is named Cleueden water of a certeine towne neere to the fall thereof It riseth southeast of Barrow goeth by Burton Naileseie and so vnto Cleuedon The Auon commonlie called the third Auon is a goodlie water and growne to be verie famous by sundrie occasions to be particularlie touched in our description of Bristow Yet thus much will I note héere thereof as a rare accident how that in king Edgars daies the verie same yeare that the old monasterie of Euesham fell downe by it selfe a porpasse was taken therein neere to the said monasterie and neuer anie before or since that time heard of to haue béene found in that streame And euen so not manie yeares before I first wrote this treatise a sturgion was taken aliue in Rochester streame which the bishop gaue vnto your honor and you would as gladlie haue sent it to the quéenes maiestie if she might haue béene presented withall aliue as it was taken Certes both these rare occurrents gaue no lesse occasion of strange furmises to the inhabitants of both places than the blockes of Brerton when they appeare doo vnto that familie of which the report goeth that they are neuer séene but against some mischéefe or other to befall vnto that house But how farre am I gone from my purpose The Auon therefore riseth in the verie edge of Tetburie and goeth by long Newton to Brokenton Whitchurch and Malmsburie where it receiueth two waters that is to saie one from by west comming by Foxeleie and Bromleham which runneth so néere to the Auon in the west suburbe of Malmsburie that the towne thereby is almost made an Iland Another from Okeseie parke by Hankerton Charleton and Garesden After this confluence it hasteth to Cole parke then goeth it toward the southeast till it méet with a water comming from southwest betwéene Hullauington and Bradfield by Aston and soone after with another at the northside from Binall by Wootton Basset through the parke to Gretenham and Idouer bridges and after the confluence to Dauntseie Segar Sutton Christ-malford Auon Calwaies house and then to west Tetherton Beneath this towne also it taketh in a water increased by two brookes whereof one comming from Cleue by Hilmarton Whitleie house and Bramble and there receiuing another that commeth by Calne passeth on by Stanlie into the Auon which from thence foorth goeth to Chippenham Rowdon Lekham and then receiuing Cosham water goeth to Lacocke Melsham and yer it come at Whaddon crosseth two other in one chanell whereof one riseth about Brumham house and goeth to Sene the other about the Diuizes and from thence runneth to Potterne wood Creke wood Worton Maston Bucklington and ioining with the other aboue Litleton they run by Semmingto◠and north of Whaddon aforesaid into the maine streame whereof I now intreat From hence our Auon runneth to Stauerton and southwest of that towne méeteth with the Were that commeth from Upton by Dilton Brooke parke there crossing a rill called Bisse from Westbirie vnder the plaine then to north Bradleie Trubridge and so into Auon that goeth from thence to Bradford within a mile or there abouts before it come at Freshford it méeteth with the Frome whose description dooth insue The Frome riseth in the east part of Mendip hils and from thence runneth by Astwti◠the Cole pits Lie vnder Mendip Whateleie Elmesbridge and soone after taketh in the Nonneie water comming from Nonneie castell thence to Walles and Orcharleie bridge where it
yer it come at Caerleon or Chester in the south taketh in two waters on the right hand of which the first commeth downe from the north betweene Landgwie Landgweth and by Lhan Henoch without anie further increase but the other is a more beautifull streame called Auon and thus described as I find it among my pamphlets The Auon riseth in the hilles that séeme to part Monemouth and Brechenocke shires in sunder and after a rill receiued from Blorench hill on the northside of the same running downe from thence by Capell Newith and Triuethin it receiueth a water from by south almost of equall course and from that quarter of the countrie and in processe of time anotehr little one from the same side yer it come to Lanurgwaie and Lanihangle from whence it goeth to Euennocke and Penrose so in Uske before it go by Caerleon But here you must note that the course of this streame ioining beneath Quenocke chappell with the other which descendeth as I said from the hilles about foure miles aboue Landgwaie and Langweth dooth make an Iland aboue Caerleon where Penrose standeth much Romane coine is found of all sorts so that the influence of the one into the other séemeth to me to be but a draine deuised by man to kéepe the citie from the violence of such water as otherwise would oft annoie the same Being past Caerleon it runneth to Crindie where maister Harbert dwelleth and there carieng another brooke withall that riseth north of Tomberlow hill and descendeth by Henlis and Bettus chappell it runneth forth to Newport in Welch castle Newith and from thence vnder a bridge after thrée or foure miles course to the sea taking the Ebowith water withall which méeteth with the same almost in the verie mouth or fall and riseth in the edge of Brecknoch shire or as Leland saith high Winceland from two heads of which one is called Eberith Uehan the other Eberith Mawr as I haue beene informed The course of the first head is by Blamgrent and after the confluence they passe togither by Lanhileth and comming by west of Tomberlow hill crossing a rill from north east by the waie it taketh in thereabout the Serowie that runneth by Trestrent is of lesse race hitherto than the Ebowith and from that same quarter After this confluence it goeth to Risleie Rocheston castell next of all thorough a parke and so by Greenefield castell and is not long yer it fall into the sea being the last issue that I doo find in the countie which beareth the name of Monemouth and was in old time a part of the region of the Silures The Romeneie or as some corruptlie call it the Nonneie is a goodlie water and from the head a march betwéene Monemouth Glamorgan shires The head hereof is aboue Egglins Tider vap Hoell otherwise called Fanum Theodori or the church of Theodorus whence commeth manie springs taking one bottome the water is called Canoch and not Romeneie till it be come to Romeneie It receiueth no water on the east side but on the west diuerse small beckes whereof three and one of them called Ifra are betwéene the rising and Brathetere chappell the fourth cōmeth in by Capell Gledis and Kethligaire the first from betwéene the Faldraie and Lanuabor the sixt seuenth before it come to Bedwas and the eight ouer against Bedwas it selfe from chappell Martin Cairfillie castell and Thauan after which confluences it runneth on by Maghan Keuen Mableie and Romeneie yer long crossing a becke at north west that commeth from aboue Lisuan Lamssen and Roch it falleth into the sea about six miles from the Wishe and albeit the mouth therof be nothing profitable for ships yet is it also a march betwéene the Silures and Glamorganshire The Laie falleth into the sea a mile almost from the Taffe and riseth in the hilles aboue Lantrissent for all the region is verie hillie From whence comming by Lantrissent and Auercastell it runneth by Coit Marchan parke Lambedder S. Brides Lhannihangle saint Fagans and Elaie Leckwith Landowgh Cogampill and so into the sea without anie maner increase by anie rils at all sauing the Dunelais which riseth foure miles from his fall east northeast and meeteth withall a little more than a quarter of a mile from Pont Uelim Uaur and likewise by west the Methcoid that commeth from Glinne Rodeneie and wherein to the Pedware dischargeth that small water gathered in his chanell Here will I staie a little and breake off into a discourse which Leland left also as parcell of this coast who toucheth it after this maner From Taffe to Laie mouth or Ele riuer a mile from Laie mouth or rather Penarth that standeth on the west point of it to the mouth of Thawan riuer from whence is a common passage ouer vnto Mineheued in Summersetshire of 17 miles are about seuen Welth miles which are counted after this maner A mile and a halfe aboue Thawan is Scilleie hauenet a pretie succour for ships whose head is in Wenno paroch two miles and a halfe from the shore From Scilleie mouth to Aber Barrie a mile and thither commeth a little rill of fresh water into Sauerne whose head is scant a mile off in plaine ground by northeast and right against the fall of this becke lieth Barrie Iland a flight shot from the shore at the full sea Halfe a mile aboue Aber Barrie is the mouth of Come kidie which riseth flat north from the place where it goeth into the Sauerne and serueth oft for harbour vnto sea-farers Thence to the mouth of Thawan are thrée miles wherevnto ships may come at will Two miles aboue Thawan is Colhow whither a little rill resorteth from Lau Iltuit thence to the mouth of Alen foure miles that is a mile to saint Dinothes castell and thrée miles further The Alen riseth by northeast vp into the land at a place called Lhes Broimith or Skirpton about foure miles aboue the plot where it commeth by it selfe into Sauerne From thence to the mouth of Ogur aliàs Gur thrée miles Then come they in processe of time vnto the Kensike or Colbrooke riuer which is no great thing sith it riseth not aboue three miles from the shore From Kensike to Aber Auon two miles and herein doo ships molested with weather oftentimes séeke harborough It commeth of two armes whereof that which lieth northeast is called Auon Uaur the other that lieth northwest Auon Uehan They meet togither at Lhanuoie Hengle about two miles aboue Aber Auon village which is two miles also from the sea From hence to the Neth is about two miles and a halfe thereon come shiplets almost to the towne of Neth from the Sauerne From the mouth of Neth vnto the mouth of Crimline becke is two miles and being passed the same we come vnto the Tauie which descendeth from the aforesaid hilles and
falleth into the sea by east of Swanseie Being past this we come vnto the Lichwr or Lochar mouth and then gliding by the Wormes head we passed to the Wandresmouth wherof I find this description following in Leland Both Uendraith Uaur and Uendraith Uehan rise in a péece of Carmardineshire called Issekenen that is to saie the low quarter about Kennen riuer and betwixt the heads of these two hils is another hill wherein be stones of a gréenish colour whereof the inhabitants make their lime The name of the hill that Uendraith Uaur riseth in is called Mennith Uaur and therein is a poole as in a moorish ground named Lhintegowen where the principall spring is and this hill is eight or nine miles From Kidwellie the hill that Uendraith Uehan springeth out of is called Mennith Uehan and this water commeth by Kidwellie towne But about thrée or foure miles yer it come thither it receiueth a brooke called Tresgirth the course whereof is little aboue a mile from the place where it goeth into Uendraith and yet it hath foure or fiue tucking milles and thrée corne milles vpon it At the head of this brooke is an hole in the hilles side where men often enter and walke in a large space And as for the brooke it selfe it is one of the most plentifull and commodious that is to be found in Wales All along the sides also of Uendraith Uaur you shall find great plentie of sea-coles There is a great hole by head of Uendraith Uehan where men vse to enter into vaults of great compasse and it is said that they maie go one waie vnder the ground to Wormes head and another waie to Cairkemen castell which is three miles or more into the land But how true these things are it is not in me to determine yet this is certeine that there is verie good hawking at the Heron in Uendraith Uehan There are diuerse prints of the passage of certeine worms also in the caue at the head of Uendraith Uehan as the inhabitants doo fable but I neuer heard of anie man that saw anie worme there and yet it is beléeued that manie wormes are there Hitherto out of Leland But now to returne to mine owne course Leauing the Laie which some call Elaie and passing the Pennarth baie that lieth betwéene the Pennarth and the Lauerocke points we left Scillie Ilet which lieth on the mouth of Scillie hauen before described and came vnto the Barrie whose head is aboue Wrinston castell and from whence he runneth by Deinspowis Cadoxton Barrie and so into the sea Being past the Barrie water we come to a fall called Aberthaw which riseth two or thrée miles aboue Lansanor and going by Welch Newton it commeth at length to Cowbridge and from thence goeth to Lanblethian Landoch Beanpéere Flimston Gilston and betweene the east and the west Aberthaw into the Sauerne sea But yer it come all there it receiueth a brooke called Kensan or Karnsan or Kensech on the east side whose head is east of Bolston comming by Charnelhoid Lhancaruan Lancadle it falleth into the former aboue either of the Thawans Leland saith that Kensan hath two heads whereof the more northerlie called Brane lieth in Luenlithan and runneth seauen miles before it méet with the other Leauing this water we sailed on casting about the Nash point omitting two or three small waters whereof Leland hath alreadie as ye see made mention because I haue nothing more to add vnto their descriptions except it be that the Colhow taketh in a rill from Lan Iltruit of whose course to saie the truth I haue no manner of knowledge The Ogur or Gur which some call the Ogmur is a well faire streame as we were woont to saie in our old English whose head is in the same hilles where the Rodeneies are to be found but much more westerlie and running a long course yer it come to anie village it goeth at the length beneath Languineuere or Langouodoch to S. Brides vpon Ogur then to Newcastell and Marthermaure beneath which it méeteth the Wennie halfe a mile from Ogur or Ogmur castell on the east side of the banke It riseth fiue or six miles from this place among the hilles and comming downe at last by Lanharne it crosseth a rill yer long from northeast and the confluence passeth foorth by Coitchurch Ogur castell so into the Ogur Leland writing of the waters that fall into this Ogur saith thus Into the Ogur also resorteth the Garrow two miles aboue Lansanfride bridge descending from Blaingarow It taketh furthermore saith he another called Leuennie rising in the parish of Glin Corug at northwest and then running two miles lower vniteth it selfe with the Corug brooke a little short thing and worthie no longer speach From this confluence the Leuennie goeth seauen miles further yer it meete with the Ogur on the west side at Lansanfride two miles aboue Penbowt And so far Leland But I wot not what he meaneth by it Next vnto the Ogur is the Kensig water that commeth downe by the Pile and Kensig castell and being past the same we crosse the Margan rill where sir Edward Manxell dwelt and so vnto Auon which hauing two heads as is said the more easterlie of them commeth downe by Hauodaport chappell the other by Glin Corug Michaell church Aber Auon and so into the sea yéelding also in time of néed a good harbour for ships to lodge and ride in From hence we went along by the Cole pits to the mouth of the Neth The Neth is a faire water rising of diuerse heads whereof the more easterlie named Nethuehan riseth not farre from the head of the Kennon and comming downe by Penedorin to Aberpirgwin it receiueth Nethuaur a little aboue the towne which rising not farre southeast of the head of Tauie in Brecknoch shire as all the rest doo receiueth the Trangarth the Meltaie and the Hepsaie all which are accounted as members of his head in one chanell about a mile or more before it ioine with Nethuehan For as Trangarth riseth east of Nethuaur so the Melta riseth by east of Trangarth and ioineth with the same aboue Istrad wealthie and a little beneath the same towne taketh in the Hepsaie So that albeit their seuerall risings be half or a whole mile in sunder yet haue they in a maner like distance from Aberpirgwin and their finall confluence in the edge of Glamorganshire which they directlie doo crosse After these confluences the maine streame runneth in and out by sundrie miles and through the wooddie soiles till it méet with Cledaugh which ioineth with the same beneath the Resonlaie and goeth withall to Lanisted where it taketh in the Dulesse whose head is aboue Chappell Krenaunt in the marches of Brecknoch Thence it goeth to Cadox towne or betwéene it and Lannistide then to Neth towne whither small vessels often come
often heard After this confluence with the Gwilie the Towie goeth to Caermardine then to Lanigang then to Lanstephan S. Ismaels and so into the sea Next vnto the Towie is the Taue whose head is in the blacke mounteines as at the roots of Wrenni vaur hill in Pembrookeshire from whence it runneth by Lanuurnach Langludien Lanualteg and taking in the Dudderie from southwest out of the same countie by Lanbederuelfraie and Lindwie it goeth to Eglesware chappell beneath which it crosseth the Marlais by north that runneth by Lanbedie and Whitland Thence meeting with one rill called Uenni as I take it that commeth through Cardith forrest on the one side and the Caire on the other that runneth into it west of Landowror it hasteth to S. Clares where it taketh in the Carthkinnie or Barthkinnie as Leland calleth it and the Gow or Tow both in one chanell of which the first riseth aboue Capell Bettus from whence it runneth by Talacouthe Kilsant and Langinnin the other issueth out of the ground aboue Trologh Bettus by Midrun ioining with the former a little aboue S. Clares they run into the Taue and from thence to Lanihangle and betwéene it and Abercowen admitteth finallie the Gowen or Gow streame which comming likewise from the blacke mounteines goeth by Ebbernant so into the Taue who directeth his course by Lancharne castell and then into the sea The next water that we come to is the Gwair which is but a small thing rising aboue Lambeder Uelfraie and going from thence by east of castell Merhie hill Cruinuier and Argwaire it is not long yer it fall into the sea and so we leaue Cairdinshire and go ouer into Penbrooke Then passed we by an other comming out of Rathe forrest called Coit Rathe the water it selfe rising about Templeton Thence leauing the Monkeston rocke we came to Tenbie or Diubechie Piscood and passing into the port betwéene the castell and S. Katharines rocke we found it serued with two little backe waters of so small countenance that they are not worthie of anie further talke to be spent in their descriptions yet the one seemeth to be called Florence brooke the other Fresto Gunfreston standing betwéene them both whereby their sight cannot perish After this we passed betwéene Londie and an other Ilet or rocke lieng by northwest of the same to Ludsop point so to Abertrewent where I found a sillie fresh water named Trewend that riseth a mile or thereabout within the land From thence we went southwards by Brode hauen till we came to S. Gowans point Then gathering west and by north before we came at Shepe Iland we found another fresh water that riseth short of Kiriog Maharen and running south of Uggarston Windmill hill or betwéene it and Castell Norton and Gupton it holdeth on flat west all the waie till it come to the Ocean Being passed this water we cast about toward the northwest by the Poptons and Pennar till we came to the Pennar mouth out of which the salt water issueth that in maner inuironneth Penbroke From this omitting sundrie salt créekes on both sides of the hauen not appertinent to our purpose we came to the fall of two waters in one chanell aboue whose confluence Williamston parke standeth and whereof one a méere salt course incloseth thrée parts of Carew castell The other rising neere to Coit Rath forrest is a fresh going by Geffraiston Creswell Lawrenie it leaueth the parke on the south side goeth into the hauen after confluence with the former Now come I to the two swords or hauen of Milford whereinto two riuers direct their course from the northeast called Dugledu or the two swords and betwéene them both is a rill which they call also Cultlell that is to saie the knife Hereof riseth a merrie tale of a Welshman that lieng in this place abroad all night in the cold weather and peraduenture not verie well occupied was demanded of his hostesse where he did breake his fast the next morrow at what inne he laie in the night precedent bicause he came so soone to hir house yer anie of hir maids were vp Oh good hostesse quoth he be contented I laie to night in a dangerous estate for I slept betweene two swords with a long knife at my heart meaning indéed that he laie betwéene these two riuers and his brest towards the south neere to the head of Cultlell But to passe ouer these iests Here Leland speaketh of a riuer called Gwilie but where it riseth or falleth he maketh no certeine report wherefore it is requisit that I proceed according to my purpose The one of these swords is called Clotheie or Clothie of which I find this short and breefe description The Clothie riseth at the foot of Wrennie vaure hill and comming downe to Monachlodge Langelman Lannakeuen and Egremond it receiueth a rill from by northwest before it come at Lanhaddon castell which commeth from aboue the moore by Clarbaston and Bletherston his head arising in the hill west of Mancloghaie as Leland dooth informe me Yer long also and beneath Lanhaddon it taketh in another on the cast side from Narbarth castell comming by Robeston then going by Eunaston Slebach Picton castell Sister houses Minware Martheltwie at Rise castell point west of Coit Kenles as I haue béene informed it taketh in the other sword named Dugledie wherof I read as followeth The head of the Dugledie is somwhere at northwest betwixt S. Laurences S. Dugwels from whence it runneth to Trauegarne Redbaxton taking in a rill by the waie from Camrose at the west it goeth to Hauerford or Hereford west and there vniteth it selfe with a water which peraduenture is the same that Leland called Gwilie Certes it riseth short of Walton and comming by S. Leonards chappell and Pendergest it falleth I saie into the Dugledie ouer against the towne of Hauerford or Herford west but in Welsh Hulford as Lhoid dooth set it downe Beneath Herford it taketh in another water from south west whose head is short of S. Margarets chappell and enterance betweene Harraldston and Herford which Harraldstone receiueth the name of Harrald the successour of Edward the confessour as some call him who was a gréeuous mall vnto the Britons that remained in the time of the said Edward as I haue noted elsewhere Then the Dugledie still descending taketh in the Frese frō Fresethorpe a rill of no great accompt and therefore I go from it making hast vnto Culthell omitting two rils betwéene it and the Clotheie on the southside of no great weight and moment The Cultlhell commeth into the Dugledie beneath Bolston with a streight course from by north of three or foure miles rising by west of Slebach and comming by Bowlston after whose vnition with the aforesaid water they run on as one till they méet with the Clothie casting out by the
waie sundrie salt créekes as the maine chanell dooth from thence foorth vntill it passe the Sandie hauen the Dale rode whither a sillie fresh rill commeth of small value be come about againe to the large Ocean Hauing thus shewed the courses of those few fresh waters that come to Milford hauen we cast about by the Blockehouse and S. Annes chappell to Gateholme I le that lieth betwéene S. Annes and the Wilocke point directlie ouer against Stockeholme Iland that is situat further off into the sea toward the southwest and is full halfe so great as the Scalmeie that I elsewhere described Betwéene the Willocke point also and the Scalmeie directlie west is the Midland I le full so great as the Gateholme As for the two rocks that lie by north and south of the Scalmeie of which the one is called the Yardland stone the other Mewstone it shall not be greatlie requisit to stand on their discourses sith they are such as may hardlie be taken for Ilands and euen in like sort we may iudge of S. Brides Ile which is southwest of Calthrop rode likewise of the Gresholme whereof I find this short description The Gresholme lieth directlie west of Scalmeie from whence if you saile thither on the south side you must néeds passe by the Mewstone rocke if on the north of Scalmeie you must leaue the Yarland stone on your left hand Wherto if you note well the situation of these Ilands alreadie named and confer them with the Ramseie and S. Dauids land you shall find them to produce as it were two dangerous points including the Brid baie wherein notwithstanding the greatnesse are 1000 perils and no fresh brookes for me to deale withall Finallie hauing doubled the Willocke point we thought it not good altogether to leaue that baie vnsearched at lestwise to sée what Ilands might there be found long entred into the same we beheld one which the men of the countrie call S. Brides Iland a verie little place and situate néere the land before I came at Galtroie rode From thence we went about by the little hauen Doluach hauen Caruaie hauen Shirelace rocke Carnbuddie and Earnaie baies Portelais and so into the found betwéene Ramseie and the point In this sound likewise is a little I le almost annexed to the maine but in the middest thereof I meane of the sound is a rocke called the horsse a mile and more by north of Ribbie rocke that lieth south east of Ramseie and more infortunate than ten of Seians colts but thanked be God I neuer came on his backe Thence passing by S. Stephans and Whitesand baies we saluted the Bishop and his clerks as they went in procession on our left side being loth to take anie salted holie water at their hands and came at last to the point called S. Dauids head which Ptolomie calleth Octapitanum promontorium except I be deceiued But here gentle reader giue me leaue to staie a while and insert the words of Leland touching the land called S. Dewies or S. Dauids land whereof some men may peraduenture haue vse his words are these Being therefore past this hauen and point of Demetia in casting about the coast we come to S. Dewies or S. Dauids land which Ptolomie calleth Octapitanum promontorium I read to be separated from the rest of the countrie much after this maner although I grant that there may be and are diuerse other little creekes betwixt Newgale and S. Dauids head and betwixt S. Dauids and Fischard beside those that are héere mentioned out of a register of that house As we turne therefore from Milford S. Dauids land beginneth at Newgale a créeke serued with a backe fresh water Howbeit there is a baie before this creeke betwixt it and Milford From hence about foure miles is Saluach creeke otherwise called Sauerach whither some fresh water resorteth the mouth also thereof is a good rescue for balingers as it I meane the register saith Thence go we to Portelais three miles where is a little portlet whither the Alen that commeth through saint Dewies close dooth run It lieth a mile southwest from S. Dewies saint Stinans Chappell also is betwéene Portelais and Portmaw The next is Port Maw where I found a great estuarie into the land The Pendwie halfe a mile from that Lhand Uehan is thrée miles from Pendwie where is a salt créeke then to Tredine three miles where is another creeke to Langunda foure miles and another créeke is there in like sort where fishermen catch herrings Héere also the Gwerne riuer diuideth Penbidiane from Fischerdine Kemmeis land From Langunda to Fischard at the Gwerne mouth foure miles and here is a portlet or hauenet also for ships And thus much of S. Dauids land Besides this also Leland in a third booke talketh of lhinnes and pooles but for asmuch as my purpose is not to speake of lakes and lhinnes I passe them ouer as hasting to Teifie in Latine Tibius and after Ptolomie Tuerobius or Tiuirobius which is the next riuer that serueth for my purpose And yet not forgetting to touch the Gwerne for after we came from saint Dauids head we coasted along toward the southeast till wée came ouer against saint Catharins where going northwards by the bread hauen and the Strombles head we sailed thence northeast and by north to Langlas head then flat south by the Cow and Calfe two cruell rockes which we left on the left hand so coasted ouer to Abergwin or Fischard where we found a fresh water named Guin or Gwerne whose course is in maner directlie out of the east into the west from Uremie hils by pont Uaunt and Lanichair vntill it come within a mile of the foresaid towne It riseth flat north of the Perselie hill from whence it goeth by Pont vaine Lauerillidoch Lanchar Landilouair so to Abergwine or Abergwerne for I read both From Abergwine we cast about by Dinas head till we come to the fall of Neuerne where Newport standeth The head of this riuer is aboue Capell Nantgwin from whence it runneth by Whitchurch but yer it come at Kilgwin it taketh in a little water that riseth short of Wrenie vaure and thence go foorth as one vntill they come to Newport Cardigan hauen is the next fall that I did stumble on wherein lieth a litle Iland ouer against the north point Hereinto also commeth the Teifie a noble riuer which riseth in Lintinie and is fraught with delicate samons and herein and not else where in all the riuers of Britaine is the Castor or Beuer to be found But to procéed The verie hed thereof I saie is foure miles aboue Stradflore in Luitie and after it hath run from thence a little space it receiueth a brooke from southeast that commeth out of Lin Legnant and then after the confluence runneth on to Stradflore abbeie beneth which it
méeteth with the Miricke water that riseth aboue Stradmirich and soone after with the Landurch both from the northwest and finallie the Bremich aboue Tregaron that commeth in by the east as Leland hath set downe Néere to Landwibreuie also it crosseth the Bromis by east northeast and then goeth to Landuair Cledogh Kellan and soone after taking in the Matherne from by east that parteth Cardigan partlie from Carmardine shire and likewise that Dulas aboue Lanbedder which riseth aboue Langibbie and goeth thence to Bettus on the northwest it goeth next of all to Lanbedder towne then to Laniuair beneath which it crosseth the Grauelth thence to Pencarocke Lanibether Lanlonie Lanihangle and Sandissell and there it vniteth it selfe with the Clethor or Dettor which commeth downe thither by Lantisilued chappell Lanfraine and finallie Landissell from by north as I doo here affirme After this confluence it procéedeth on to Landuaie Alloine Bangor Langeler Landeureog and Newcastell yer long taking in the Kerie from by north whose head is not farre from that of Clethor and whose course is somewhat inlarged by such rilles as descend into the same For west of Kenwith two becks in one chanell doo fall into it which be namelesse and but of a little length Beneath Tredwair also it crosseth another from by west that runneth along by Bettus Euan and finallie méeting with the Teifie they run as one by Kennarth still parting Cardigon shire from Carmardin as it hath doone sith it met with the Matherne and so forth on till they ioine with the Cheach which rising southeast aboue chappell Euan dooth part Carmardine and Brechnocke shire in sunder till it come vnto the Teifie From this confluence and being still a limit vnto Cardigon shire it goeth by Marierdine and so to Cardigon taking in one rill from by north descending by Penneralt by north of Monardiue or Marierdiue and two other from by southwest of which the one commeth in beneath Kilgaron castell the other from Lantwood northwest of Oswid Mortemer which lieth southeast of Cardigan and then going forward betwéene S. Dogmaile Langordinere it is not long yer it fall into the Irish sea flat west and by north from his vprise and sending vs forth from Penlooke into Cardigon shire wherevnto it hath become march euer sithence it came from Kellam or confluence with the Matherne Being come into Cardigon shire and hauing passed the Cardigon point an Iland of the same denomination lieng by west thereof we came vnto the fall of Airon thrée miles beneath Lancleere it riseth in the mounteines by a chappell called Blam Peniall belonging to Landwie breuie about thrée or foure miles from Tiue banks runneth on by Lamberwooddie Langitho Tregrigaron hill Treuilian Talaferne and soone after taking in a rill from by south from Siliam by Lanleir it runneth by Istrade Kilkennen Lanicharin and finallie into the sea crossing by the waie the Bidder brooke which comming from Dehewide dooth fall into the same betwéene Lanchairin and Henuenneie The Arth which is the next fall is no great thing neither of anie long course yet somewhat crotched and it riseth three or foure miles or more within the land slopewise and comming by Lambaderne and Treueglois it falleth into the sea northeast of Aberarth Being past the Arth hauing staied there a while bicause we found some harborough we came next of all vnto the Wereie which riseth of two heads aboue whose confluence standeth a towne named Lanihangle Redrod and from whence it goeth by Lanigruthen to Laristed so into the Ocean Then went we to the Ystwith which riseth in the blacke mounteins aboue Comerstwith from whence it runneth certeine miles vntill it come vnto Ispittie Istwith Lananon Laniler Lan Nachairne and so into the sea taking withall first the Meleuen then the Ridall or Redholl not farre from the shore whereof I haue this description The Ridall riseth in the top of Plimlimmon hill out of a lake named Lin Ridall from whence going toward Spittie Kinwen it crosseth one water on the north and another beneth it on the southeast and so goeth on by Lanbeder vaure till it come to Aberistwith the Istwith and so into the Ocean Hauing thus viewed the Istwith and taken our selues againe to the sea we crossed the Salke or Salique brooke whereof I find this memoriall The Salique brooke descendeth in like sort from the blacke mounteins going from Ummaboue toward Gogarth or Gogirthar it receiueth the Massalique and from thence goeth into the sea southwest from his originall From hence we went to the Lerie an indraught of no great quantitie neither commodious as I gesse yet I may be deceiued for anie ship to harborough in It riseth toward the lower ground of the blacke hils and going by Lanthangle castell Gwalter it runneth from thence northeast into the Ocean receiuing a rill by the waie from the hilles which lie by northeast of his course But what stand I vpon trifles Thus haue I brought my selfe out of Caerdigan shire vnto the Wie which is limit betwéene it and Merioneth for a certeine space being entred in the mouth thereof we gat vp to the head minding in the description of the same to come downeward as in the rest which we will doo in such good manner as for the time and want of some information is possible to be performed It ariseth in the south part of Snowdonie and goeth on foorth right to Lammothwie by Mowdhewie Mathan laith and comming downe to Dinas Mathew it receiueth two rilles from northwest and the third comming by Mailroid called Cludoch from northeast so holdeth on crossing the Angell water at the west which boundeth Mongomerie shire in part till it come to Romis beneath which water it taketh in the Towin that passeth by Lambrin mawr from Talgarth and then goeth to Mathrauerue crossing another from by north and so foorth to Lanworing where it méeteth with the Kerig on the one side and the Gwidall which commeth from Dorowen on the other After this our maine riuer goeth by Pengos and beneath the same taketh in an influence from southeast called the Dulas and another from the northwest from thence it hasteth on to Magenillet or Machenlet first crossing the Leuennie from southeast secondlie the Peniall from northwest thirdlie the Einon fourthlie the Kinar fiftlie the Cleidor these thrée last rehearsed falling into it from southeast the last hauing his course by Langwinhelin and so into the sea as mine instruction vpholdeth It séemeth in some mens iudgements to part Northwales and Westwales in sunder and the same which in Latine hight Deuus in Welsh or British Dift or Dewie whereof the Latine doth séeme to fetch his sound But to procéed with the rest of such falles and waters as are to be found in this countie Going therfore northwestward we come to a fall frō the
a litigious streame because that by often alteration of chanell it inforceth men to séeke new bounds vnto their lands for here it laieth new ground and there translateth and taketh awaie the old so that there is nothing more vnconstant than the course of the said water Of the monasterie Bangor also by which it passeth after it hath left Orton bridge I find this note which I will not omit because of the slaughter of monks made sometime néere vnto the same For although the place require it not yet I am not willing altogither to omit it This abbeie of Bangor stood sometime in English Mailor by hither and south of the riuer Dée It is now ploughed ground where that house stood by the space of a Welsh mile which reacheth vnto a mile and an halfe English and to this day the tillers of the soile there doo plow vp bones as they saie of those monks that were slaine in the quarrell of Augustine and within the memorie of man some of them were taken vp in their rotten weeds which were much like vnto those of our late blacke monks as Leland set it downe yet Erasmus is of the opinion that the apparell of the Benedictine monks was such as most men did weare generallie at their first institution But to proceed This abbeie stood in a valleie and in those times the riuer ran hard by it The compasse thereof likewise was as the circuit of a walled towne and to this daie two of the gates may easilie be discerned of which the one is named Port Hogan lieng by north the other Port Clais situat vpon the south But the Dée hauing now changed his chanell runneth through the verie middest of the house betwixt those two gates the one being at the left a full halfe mile from the other As for the squared stone that is found hereabout and the Romane coine there is no such necessitie of the rehersall therof but that I may passe it ouer well inough without anie further mention Being past the Dée we sailed about Wirall passing by Hibrie or Hilbrée Iland and Leuerpole Nasse making our entrie into Merseie arme by Leuerpole hauen where we find a water falling out betwéene Seacombe and the Ferie which dooth in maner cut off the point from the maine of Wirall For rising néere to the northwest shore it holdeth a course directlie toward the southeast by Wallaseie and Poton and so leaueth all the north part beyond that water a peninsula the same being three square inuironed on two sides with the Ocean on the third with the aforesaid brooke whose course is well néere three miles except I be deceiued Frō hence entring further into the hauen we find another fall betwéene Bebington and Brombro chappell descending from the hilles which are seene to lie not farre from the shore and thence crossing the fall of the Beston water we come next of all vnto the Wiuer than the which I read of no riuer in England that fetcheth more or halfe so many windlesses and crinklings before it come at the sea It riseth at Buckle hilles which lie betwéene Ridleie and Buckle townes and soone after making a lake of a mile more in length called Ridleie poole it runneth by Ridleie to Chalmondlie Thence it goeth to Wrenburie where it taketh in a water out of a moore that commeth from Marburie and beneth Sandford bridge the Combrus from Combermer or Comber lake and finallie the third that commeth from about Moneton and runneth by Langerslaw then betweene Shenton and Atherlie parkes and so into the Wiuer which watereth all the west part of England and is no lesse notable than the first Auon or third Duze whereof I haue spoken alreadie After these confluences it hasteth also to Audlem Hawklow and at Barderton crosseth the Betleie water that runneth by Duddington Widdenberie and so by Barderton into the aforesaid streame Thence it goeth to Nantwich but yer it come at Marchford bridge it meeteth with a rill called Salopbrooke as I gesse comming from Caluerleie ward and likewise beneath the said bridge with the Lée and the Wuluarne both in one chanell wherof the first riseth at Weston the other goeth by Copnall From thence the Wiuer runneth on to Minchion and Cardeswijc and the next water that falleth into it is the Ashe which passeth by Darnall Grange and afterward going to Warke the vale Roiall and Eaton it commeth finallie to Northwich where it receiueth the Dane to be described as followeth The Dane riseth in the verie edges of Chester Darbishire Staffordshire and comming by Warneford Swithamleie and Bosleie is a limit betwéene Stafford and Darbie shires almost euen from the verie head which is in Maxwell forrest It is not long also yer it doo méet with the Bidle water that commeth by Congerton and after the confluence goeth vnto Swetham the Heremitage Cotton and Croxton there taking in two great waters whereof the one is called Whelocke which comming from the edge of the countie by Morton to Sandbach crosseth another that descendeth from church Cawhlton and after the confluence goeth to Warmingham ioining also beneath Midlewish with the Croco or Croxston the second great water whose head commeth out of a lake aboue Bruerton as I heare and thence both the Whelocke and the Croco go as one vnto the Dane at Croxton as the Dane dooth from thence to Bostocke Dauenham Shebruch Shurlach and at Northwich into the foresaid Wiuer After this confluence the Wiuer runneth on to Barneton and there in like sort receiueth two brookes in one chanell whereof one commeth from aboue Allostocke by Holme Lastocke the other from beyond Birtles mill by Chelford where it taketh in a rill called Piuereie thence to ouer Peuer Holford and there crossing the Waterlesse brooke growing of two becks and ioining at nether Tableie it goeth foorth to Winshambridge and then méeting with the other after this confluence they procéed till they come almost at Barneton where the said chanell ioineth with a pretie water running thorough two lakes whereof the greatest lieth betwéene Comberbach Rudworth and Marburie But to go forward with the course of the maine riuer After these confluences our Wiuer goeth to Warham Actonbridge and Dutton ouer against which towne on the other side it méeteth with a rill comming from Cuddington also the second going by Norleie and Gritton finallie the third soone after from Kimfleie and then procéedeth on in his passage by Asheton chappell Frodesham Rockesauage and so into the sea and this is all that I doo find of the Wiuer whose influences might haue beene more largelie set downe if mine iniunctions had béene amplie deliuered yet this I hope may suffice for his description and knowledge of his course The Merseie riseth among the Peke hils and from thence going downe to the Woodhouse and taking sundrie rilles withall by the waie it becommeth the confines
betwéene Chester and Darbishires Going also toward Goitehall it méeteth with a faire brooke increased by sundrie waters called Goite whereof I find this short and briefe description The Goite riseth not far from the Shire méere hill wherein the Doue and the Dane haue their originall that parteth Darbishire and Chestershire in sunder and thence commeth downe to Goite houses Ouerton Taxhall Shawcrosse and at Weibridge taketh in the Frith and beneath Berdhall the Set that riseth aboue Thersethall and runneth by Ouerset After this confluence also the Merseie goeth to Goite hall at Stockford or Stopford towne méeteth with the Tame which diuideth Chestershire and Lancastershire in sunder and whose head is in the verie edge of Yorkeshire from whence it goeth southward to Sadleworth Firth then to Mukelhirst Stalie hall Ashdon Underline Dunkenfield Denton Reddish and so at Stockford into the Merseie streame which passeth foorth in like sort to Diddesbirie receiuing a brooke by the waie that commeth from Lime parke by Brumhall parke and Chedle From Diddesbirie it procéedeth to Norden Ashton Aiston Flixston where it receiueth the Irwell a notable water and therefore his description is not to be omitted before I doo go forward anie further with the Merseie although it be not nauigable by reason of sundrie rockes and shalowes that lie dispersed in the same It riseth aboue Bacop and goeth thence to Rosendale and in the waie to Aitenfield it taketh in a water from Haselden After this confluence it goeth to Newhall Brandlesham Brurie and aboue Ratcliffe ioineth with the Rache water a faire streame and to be described when I haue finished the Irwell as also the next vnto it beneath Ratcliffe bicause I would not haue so manie ends at once in hand wherewith to trouble my readers Being therfore past these two our Irwell goeth on to Clifton Hollond Edgecroft Strengwaies and to Manchester where it vniteth it selfe with the Yrke that runneth thereinto by Roiton Midleton Heaton hill and Blackeleie Beneath Manchester also it méeteth with the Medlocke that commeth thither from the northeast side of Oldham and betwéene Claiton and Garret Halles and so betwéene two parkes falling into it about Holne Thence our Irwell going forward to Woodsall Whicleswtâ—c Ecles Barton and Deuelhom it falleth néere vnto Flixton into the water of Merseie where I will staie a while withall till I haue brought the other vnto some passe of which I spake before The Rache Rach or Rish consisteth of sundrie waters whereof ech one in maner hath a proper name but the greatest of all is Rache it selfe which riseth among the blacke stonie hils from whence it goeth to Littlebrough and being past Clegge receiueth the Beile that commeth thither by Milneraw chappell After this confluence also it méeteth with a rill néere vnto Rachedale and soone after with the Sprotton water and then the Sudleie brooke whereby his chanell is not a little increased which goeth from thence to Grisehirst and so into the Irewell before it come at Ratcliffe The second streame is called Bradsha It riseth of two heds aboue Tureton church whence it runneth to Bradsha and yer long taking in the Walmesleie becke they go in one chanell till they come beneath Bolton in the More From hence receiuing a water that commeth from the roots of Rauenpike hill by the way it goeth by Deane and Bolton in the More and so into Bradsha water which taketh his waie to Leuermore Farnworth Leuerlesse and finallie into the Irwell which I before described and whereof I find these two verses to be added at the last Irke Irwell Medlocke and Tame When they meet with the Merseie do loose their name Now therefore to resume our Merseie you shall vnderstand that after his confluence with the Irwell he runneth to Partington and not farre from thence interteineth the Gles or Glesbrooke water increased with sundrie armes wherof one commeth from Lodward another from aboue Houghton the third from Hulton parke and the fourth from Shakerleie and being all vnited néere vnto Leigh the confluence goeth to Holcroft and aboue Holling gréene into the swift Merseie After this increase the said streame in like sort runneth to Rigston there admitteth the Bollein or Bolling brooke water into his societie which rising néere the Chamber in Maxwell forrest goeth to Ridge Sutton Bollington Prestbirie and Newton where it taketh in a water comming from about Pot Chappell which runneth from thence by Adlington Woodford Wimesleie Ringeie and Ashleie there receiuing the Birkin brooke that commeth from betwéene Allerton and Marchall by Mawberleie and soone after the Marus or Mar that commeth thereinto from Mar towne by Rawstorne and after these confluences goeth on to Downham and ouer against Rixton beneath Crosford bridge into the Merseie water which procéeding on admitteth not another that méeteth with all néere Lim before it go to Thelwall Thence also it goeth by Bruche and so to Warrington a little beneath crossing a brooke that commeth from Par by Browseie Bradleie and Saukeie on the one side and another on the other that commeth thither from Gropenhall and with these it runneth on to nether Walton Acton grange and so to Penkith where it interteineth the Bold and soone after the Grundich water on the other side that passeth by Preston and Daresbirie Finallie our Merseie going by Moulton it falleth into Lirepoole or as it was called of old Liuerpoole hauen when it is past Runcorne And thus much of the Merseie comparable vnto the Wiuer and of no lesse fame than most riuers of this Iland Being past these two we come next of all to the Tarbocke water that falleth into the sea at Harbocke without finding anie mo till we be past all Wirall out of Lirepoole hauen and from the blacke rockes that lie vpon the north point of the aforesaid Iland Then come we to the Altmouth whose fresh rising not far into the land commeth to Feston and soone after receiuing another on the right hand that passeth into it by Aughton it is increased no more before it come at the sea Neither find I anie other falles till I méet with the mouth of the Yarrow and Duglesse which haue their recourse to the sea in one chanell as I take it The Duglesse commeth from by west of Rauenspike hill and yer long runneth by Andertonford to Worthington and so taking in two or thrée rilles by the waie to Wigen where it receiueth two waters in one chanell of which one commeth in south from Brin parke the other from northeast Being past this it receiueth one on the north side from Standish and another by south from Hollond and then goeth on toward Rufford chappell taking the Taud withall that descendeth from aboue Skelmersdale towne and goeth through Lathan parke belonging as I heare vnto the earle of Derbie It méeteth also
on the same side with Merton meere water in which meere is one Iland called Netholme beside other and when it is past the hanging bridge it is not long yer it fall into the Yarrow The Yarrow riseth of two heads whereof the second is called Bagen brooke and making a confluence beneath Helbie wood it goeth on to Burgh Eglestan Crofton and then ioineth next of all with the Dugglesse after which confluence the maine streame goeth foorth to Bankehall Charleton How Hesket and so into the sea Leland writing of the Yarrow saith thus of the same so farre as I now remember Into the Dugglesse also runneth the Yarrow which commeth within a mile or thereabout of Chorleton towne that parteth Lelandshire from Derbieshire Under the foot of Chorle also I find a rill named Ceorle and about a mile and a halfe from thence a notable quarreie of stones whereof the inhabitants doo make a great boast and price And hitherto Leland The Ribble a riuer verie rich of salmon and Iampreie dooth in manner inuiron Preston in Andernesse and it riseth neere to Kibbesdale aboue Gisborne from whence it goeth to Sawleie or Salleie Chathburne Woodington Clithero castell and beneath Mitton méeteth the Odder at northwest which riseth not farre from the crosse of Gréet in Yorkeshire and going thence to Shilburne Newton Radholme parke and Stonie hirst it falleth yer long into the Ribble water From hence the Ribble water hath not gone farre but it méeteth with the Calder from southeast This brooke riseth aboue Holme church in Yorkeshire which lieth by east of Lancastershire and goeth by Towleie and Burneleie where it receiueth a trifling rill thence to Higham and yer long crossing one water that commeth from Wicoler by Colne and another by and by named Pidle brooke that runneth by New church in the Pidle it méeteth with the Calder which passeth foorth to Paniam and thence receiuing a becke on the other side it runneth on to Altham and so to Martholme where the Henburne brooke dooth ioine withall that goeth by Akington chappell Dunkinhalgh Rishton and so into the Calder as I haue said before The Calder therefore being thus inlarged runneth foorth to Reade where maister Nowell dwelleth to Whallie and soone after into Ribble that goeth from this confluence to Salisburie hall Ribchester Osbastin Samburie Keuerden Law Ribbles bridge then taketh in the Darwent before it goeth by Pontwarth or Pentwarth into the maine sea The Darwent diuideth Lelandshire from Andernesse and it riseth by east aboue Darwent chappell and soone after vniting it selfe with the Blackeburne and Rodlesworth water it goeth through Houghton parke by Houghton towne to Walton hall and so into the Ribble As for the Sannocke brooke it riseth somewhat aboue Longridge chappell goeth to Broughton towne Cotham Lée hall and so into Ribble And here is all that I haue to saie of this riuer The Wire riseth eight or ten miles from Garstan out of an hill in Wiresdale forrest from whence it runneth by Shireshed chappell and then going by Wadland or Waddiler Grenelaw castell which belongeth to the erle of Darbie Garstan and Kirkland hall it first receiueth the second Calder that commeth downe by Edmerseie chappell then another chanell increased with sundrie waters which I will here describe before I procéed anie further with the Wire I suppose that the first water is called Plimpton brooke it riseth south of Gosâ—â—er and commeth by Cawford hall and yer long receiuing the Barton becke it procéedeth forward till it ioineth with the Brooke rill that commeth from Bowland forrest by Clanghton hall where master Brooke-hales dooth lie so through Mersco forrest After this confluence the Plime or Plimpton water méeteth with the Calder and then with the Wire which passeth foorth to Michaell church and the Raw cliffes and aboue Thorneton crosseth the Skipton that goeth by Potton then into the Wire rode and finallie through the sands into the sea according to his nature When we were past the fall of the Wire we coasted vp by the salt cotes to Coker mouth whose head though it be in Weresdale forrest not far from that of the Wire yet the shortnesse of course deserueth no description The next is Cowdar which is comming out of Wire dale as I take it is not increased with anie other waters more than Coker and therefore I will rid my hands thereof so much we sooner Being past these two I came to a notable riuer called the Lune or Loine or as the booke of statutes hath Lonwire Anno 13 Ric. 2. cap. 19 and giueth name to Lancaster Lonecaster or Lunecaster where much Romane monie is found and that of diuerse stamps whose course dooth rest to be described as followeth and whereof I haue two descriptions The first being set downe by Leland as master Moore of Catharine hall in Cambridge deliuered it vnto him The next I exhibit as it was giuen vnto me by one that hath taken paines as he saith to search out and view the same but verie latelie to speake of The Lune saith master Moore of some commonlie called the Loine riseth at Crosseho in Dent dale in the edge of Richmondshire out of thrée heads North also from Dent dale is Garsdale an vplandish towne wherein are séene manie times great store of red déere that come downe to feed from the mounteins into the vallies and thereby runneth a water which afterward commeth to Sebbar vale where likewise is a brooke méeting with Garsdale water so that a little lower they go as one into Dent dale becke which is the riuer that afterward is called Lune or Lane as I haue verie often noted it Beside these waters also before mentioned it receiueth at the foot of Sebbar vale a great brooke which commeth out of the Worth betwéene Westmerland and Richmondshire which taking with him the aforesaid chanels dooth run seauen miles yer it come to Dent dale foot From hence it entreth into Lansdale corruptlie so called peraduenture for Lunesdale runneth therein eight or nine miles southward and in this dale is Kirbie Hitherto master Moore as Leland hath exemplified that parcell of his letters But mine other note writeth hereof in this manner Burbecke water riseth at Wustall head by west and going by Wustall foot to Skaleg it admitteth the Breder that descendeth thither from Breder dale From hence our Burbecke goeth to Breder dale foot so to Tibarie where it méeteth with foure rilles in one bottome of which one commeth from besides Oxton another from betwéene Rasebecke and Sunbiggin the third and fourth from each side of Langdale and after the generall confluence made goeth toward Roundswath aboue which it vniteth it selfe with the Barrow Thence it runneth to Howgill Delaker Firrebanke and Killington beneath which it meeteth with a water comming from the Moruill hilles and afterward crossing the Dent brooke
with the Uswaie which descendeth from the north it goeth a little further to Linbridge and there receiueth the Ridleie by southwest and after that with another called as I thinke the Hoc which commeth from the Woodland and hillie soile by Allington falleth into the same west of Parke head It ioineth also yer long with the Ridland which commeth in north by Bilstone and then hieth to Sharpton to Harbotle where it crosseth the Yardop water by south then to Woodhouse and swallowing in a litle becke by the waie from southwest to Bickerton to Tossons Newton and running apace toward Whitton towre it taketh a brooke withall that commeth in northwest of Alnham néere Elthaw and goeth by Skarnewood ouer nether Trewhet Snitter and Throxton and soone after vniteth it selfe with the Cocket from whence they go together to Rethburie or Whitton towre to Halie to Brinkehorne Welden taking withall soone after the Tod or burne called Tod which falleth in from by south then to Elihaw Felton receiuing thereabout the Fareslie brooke that goeth by Wintring by south east and Sheldike water that goeth by Hason to Brainsaugh by north and from thence to Morricke Warkworth caâ—â—ell and so into the sea There is furthermore a little fall betwéene Hawkeslaw and Drurith which riseth about Stokes wood goeth by east Cheuington and Whittington castell and afterward into the Ocean The Lune is a pretie brooke rising west of Espleie from whence it goeth to Tritlington Ugham Linton and yer long in the sea Wansbecke in old time Diua is far greater than the Lune It issueth vp west and by north of west Whelpington thence it runneth to Kirke Whelpington Wallington Middleton and Angerton Heere it méeteth with a water running from about Farnelaw by the grange and Hartburne on the north and then going from Angerton it runneth by Moseden to Mitforth and there in like maner crosseth the Font which issuing out of the ground about Newbiggin goeth by Nonneie Kirke Witton castell Stanton Nunriding Newton and so into the Wansbecke which runneth in like maner from Mitford to Morpheth castell within two miles whereof it ebbeth and floweth the new Chappell Bottle castell Shepwash and so into the sea thrée miles from the next hauen which is called Blithe Blithe water riseth about kirke Heaton and goeth by Belfe Ogle and receiuing the Port alià s the Brocket that springeth east of S. Oswolds passeth by Portgate Whittington Fennike hall Madfennes Hawkewell the Grange Disâ—â—ngtons After it hath taken in the Pont from the east whose head is not farre from that of Hartleie streame and is past Barwijc on the hill it runneth by Harford Bedlington Cowpon and at Blithes nuke into the deepe Ocean Hartleie streamelet riseth in Wéeteslade parioch goeth by Haliwell and at Hartleie towne yeeldeth to the sea The Time or Tinna a riuer notablie stored with samon and other good fish and in old time called Alan riseth of two heads whereof that called north Tine is the first that followeth to be described It springeth vp aboue Belkirke in the hils thence goeth to Butterhawgh where it receiueth a confluence of Kirsop and the She le thence to Cragsheles Leapelish receiuing on the south a rill out of Tindale then to Shilburne against which it taketh in a becke that commeth out of Tindale called Shill also two other on the same side betweene Yarro and Fawston hall and the third at Thorneburne and so goeth on to Grenested and there carrieth withall a fall from by north also made by the confluence of one rill comming by Thecam and another that passeth by Holinhead and likewise another on the south comming from Tindale by Chuden Dalacastell and Brokes after which our north Tine goeth by Hellaside to Billingham and at Rhedes mouth méeteth with the Ridde a verie prettie water whose description is giuen me after this maner The Ridde therefore riseth within thrée miles of the Scotish march as Leland saith commeth through Riddesdale wherevnto it giueth the name Another writeth how it riseth in the roots of the Carter and Redsquibe hilles and yer it hath gone farre from the head beside a few little rilles it taketh in the Spelhop or Petop from the north and the Cheslop on the south beside sundrie other wild rits namelesse and obscure as one on the north side next vnto the Potop or Spelhop another by south out of Riddesdale the third west of Burdop the fourth runneth by Wullaw to Rochester then two from southwest another from by north which goeth by Durtburne and is called Durt or Durth then the Smalburne from the west Next to the same is the Otter or Otterburne on the north side also the Ouereie and finallie the last which descendeth from Ellesdon hilles by Munkrige and ioineth with our Ridde northwest of Nudhowgh after which the said Ridde goeth by Woodburne Risingham Leame and so into the Tine a little lower than Belingham or Bilingham which standeth some what aloofe from north Tine and is as I take it ten miles at the least aboue the towne of Hexham After this confluence it passseth to Léehall to Carehouse crossing Shitlington becke by west which also receiueth the Yare on the south side of Shitlington another also beneath this on the same side made by the confluence of Workes burne and Middle burne at Roseburne beside the third called Morleis or Morelée aboue and Simons burne beneath Shepechase and likewise the Swine from by forth that runneth by Swinburne castell next of all the Riall from the northeast which commeth by Erington so holding his course directlie southwarde it goeth by S. Oswolds through the Pictithwall to Wall and so into south Tine beneath Accam and northwest as I doo wéene of Hexham The south Tine ariseth in the Cheuiot hils and yet it hath gone farre from the head it méeteth with Esgill on the east and another rill on the west and so going by the houses toward Awsten moore it â—ometh with Schud from by west and soone after with the Uent from by east aboue Lowbier From Lowbier it goeth to Whitehalton to Kirke Haugh crossing the Gilders becke on the one side and the Alne on the other to Thornehope where it is inlarged with a water on each side to Williamstone and almost at Knaresdale taketh in the Knare and then runneth withall to Fetherstone angle At Fetherstone angle likewise it méeteth with Hartleie water by southwest comming from Sibins or Sibbenes another a little beneath from southeast and thence when it commeth to Billester castell it carieth another withall from by west Thirlewall called Rippall which riseth in the forrest of Lowes and goeth by the Waltowne Blinkinsop Widon and after which confluence it taketh in another from by north rising west of Swinsheld which goeth by Grenelegh to Haltwestell thence going by Unthanke it crosseth another rill from by south
thus passed the Were entered into the Bishoprijc yer we come at the mouth of the These almost by two miles ouer passing a rill that runneth by castell Eden and Hardwijc and likewise Hartlepoole towne which lieth ouer into the sea in maner of a byland or peninsula we meet with a prettie fall which groweth by a riuer that is increased with two waters whereof one riseth by northwest about Moretons and goeth by Stotfeld and Claxton the other at Dawlton going by Breerton Owtham and Grettam finallie ioining within two miles of the sea they make a prettie portlet but I know not of what securitie The These a riuer that beareth and féedeth an excellent samon riseth in the Blacke lowes aboue two miles flat west of the southerlie head of Were called Burdop and south of the head of west Alen and thence runneth through Tildale forrest and taking in the Langdon water from northwest it runneth to Durtpit chappell to Newbiggin and so to Middleton receiuing by west of each of these a rill comming from by north of which the last is called Hude and likewise the Lune afterward by southwest that riseth at thrée seueral places whereof the first is in the borders of Westmerland and there called Arnegill becke the second more southerlie named Lunebecke and the third by south at Bandor Skarth hill and méeting all aboue Arnegill house they run togither in one bottome to Lathekirke bridge and then into the These Hauing therefore met with these it runneth to Mickelton there taking in the Skirkwith water it goeth to Rombald kirke crossing there also one rill and the Bander brooke by south west and then going to Morewood hag and Morewood parke till it come to Bernards castell Here also it receiueth the Thuresgill water comming east of Rere crosse in Yorkeshire from the spittle in Stanmore by Crag almost southwest and being vnited with the These it goeth by Stratford Eglesdon Rokesbie Thorpe Wickliffe Ouington Winston and betweene Barfurth and Gainfurth méeteth with another rill that commeth from Langleie forest betwéene Rabie castell and Standorpe of whose name I haue no knowledge But to procéed The These being past Ramforth runneth betwéene Persore and Cliffe and in the waie to Croffs bridge taketh in the Skerne a pretie water which riseth about Trimdon and goeth by Fishburne Bradburie Preston Braforton Skirmingham the Burdons Haughton and Darlington there finallie meeting with the Cocke becke or Dare it falleth in the These beneath Stapleton before it come at Croffs bridge and as it should séeme is the same which Leland calleth Gretteie or Grettie From thence it runneth to Sockburne nether Dunsleie Middleton row Newsham Yarne crossing a brooke from Leuen bridge called Leuen or Leuinus in Latine whose crinkling course is notable and the streame of some called Thorpe which I find described in this maner The Thorpe riseth of sundrie heads wereof one is aboue Pinching Thorpe from whence it goeth to Nonnethorpe and so to Stokesleie The second hath two branches and so placed that Kildale standeth betweene them both finallie méeting beneath Easbie they go by Eaton and likewise vnto Stokesleie The last hath also two branches whereof one commeth from Inglesbie and méeteth with the second beneath Broughton going from thence to Stokesleie they méet with the Thorpe aboue the towne as the other fall into it somewhat beneath the same From hence it goeth to Ridleie and there taketh in another rill comming from Potto thence to Crawthorne brooke Leuanton Milton Hilton Inglesbie and so into the These betwéene Yarne and Barwtjc whereof I made mention before After this confluence our These hasteth on to Barwtjc Presston Thorne abbeie and Arsham which standeth on the southeast side of the riuer almost betweene the falles of two waters whereof one descendeth from west Hartburne by long Newton Elton Stockton the other from Stillington or Shillington by Whitton Thorpe Blackestone Billingham and Norton From Arsham finallie it goeth to Bellasis Middleburgh and so into the sea Leland describing this riuer speaketh of the Wiske which should come thereinto from by south vnder Wiske bridge by Danbie and Northalarton and should ioine with a greater streame but as yet I find no certeine place where to bestow the same Next of all we come vnto the high Cliffe water which rising aboue Hutton goeth by Gisborow and there receiueth another streame comming from by southeast and then continuing on his course it is not long yer it fall into the sea The next is the Scaling water which descendeth from Scaling towne from whence we come to the Molemouth not farre from whose head standeth Molgraue castell then to Sandford creeke and next of all to Eske mouth which riseth aboue Danbie wood and so goeth to Castelton there méeting by the waie with another rill comming from about Westerdale by Danbie and so they go on togither by Armar and Thwate castell till they ioine with another water aboue Glasdule chappell thence to new Biggin taking yet another brooke with them running from Goodland ward and likewise the Ibur and so go on without anie further increase by Busworth yer long into the sea There is also a créeke on each side of Robin Whoodes baie of whose names and courses I haue no skill sauing that Fillingale the towne dooth stand betwéene them both There is another not far from Scarborow on the north side called the Harwood brooke It runneth through Harwood dale by Cloughton Buniston and soone after méeting with another rill on the southwest they run as one into the ocean sea From Scarborow to Bridlington by Flamborow head we met with no more falles This water therefore that we saw at Bridlington riseth at Dugglebie from whence it goeth to Kirbie Helperthorpe Butterwtjc Boithorpe Foxhole where it falleth into the ground and riseth vp againe at Rudston Thorpe Cathorpe Bridlington and so into the Ocean Being come about the Spurne head I meete yer long with a riuer that riseth short of Withersie and goeth by Fodringham and Wisted from thence to another that commeth by Rosse Halsham Carmingham then to the third which riseth aboue Humbleton and goeth to Esterwtjc Heddon and so into the Humber The fourth springeth short of Sprotleie goeth by Witton and falleth into the water of Humber at Merslete as I heare The next of all is the Hull water which I will describe also here and then crosse ouer vnto the southerlie shore The furthest head of Hull water riseth at Kilham from whence it goeth to Lewthorpe créeke and so to Fodringham a little beneath which it meeteth with sundrie waters whereof one falleth in on the northest side comming from about Lisset the second on the northwest banke from Nafferton the third from Emmeswell and Kirkeburne for it hath two heads which ioined beneth little Drifield and the fourth which falleth into the same so that these two latter run vnto the maine
descent from the higher ground he leaueth Crake castell on his west side thence he goeth by Marton abbeie Marton Stillington Farlington Towthorpe Erswtjc Huntington at Yorke into the Ouze The Kile riseth flat north at Newborow from whence it goeth by Thorneton on the hill Ruskell parke Awne Tollerton and so into the Ouze about Newton vpon Ouze The Swale is a right noble riuer march in some places betwéene Richmondshire and Westmerland it riseth not far from Pendragon castell in the hilles aboue Kirkedale and from this towne it goeth to Kelde chappell Carret house Crackepot Whiteside and neere vnto Yalen taketh in the Barneie water which commeth from the north east Thence it goeth by Harcaside to Reth where it méeteth with the Arcleie and so to Flemington Grinton Marrike taking in the Holgate that commeth from by south and in the waie to Thorpe the Mariske becke or peraduenture Applegarth water as Leland calleth it that descendeth from the north then to Thorpe Applegarth Richmond Easbie and Brunton Here by north it interteineth two or thrée waters in one chanell called Rauenswath water whereof the two furthest doo ioine not farre from the Dawltons and so go by Rauenswath Hartfoorth Gilling and at Skebie méet with the third comming from Richmond beaconward By west also of Brunton the Swale méeteth with the Rhe running from Resdale and being past Brunton it goeth to Caterijc bridge beneath Brunton then to Ellerton Kirkebie Langton parua Thirtoft Anderbie stéeple and before it come vnto Gatenbie it meeteth with the Bedall brooke alià s Lemings becke that commeth west of Kellirbie by Cunstable Burton Langthorpe Bedall and Leming chappell From Gattenbie likewise it goeth to Mawbie at Brakenbirie receiueth the Wiske which is a great water rising betwéene two parkes aboue Swanbie in one place and southeast of Mountgrace abbeie in another and after the confluence which is about Siddlebridge goeth on betwéene the Rughtons to Appleton the Smetons Birtbie Hutton Coniers Danbie Wijc Yafford Warlabie and taking in there a rill from Brunton Aluerton it procéedeth to Otterington Newlie Kirbie Wiske Newson and Blackenburie there méeting as I said with the Swale that runneth froÌ„ thence by Skipton bridge Catton Topcliffe and Raniton and aboue Eldmire méeteth with sundrie other rilles in one bottome whereof the northwesterlie is called Cawdebec the south easterlie Kebecke which ioine est of Thorneton moore and so go to Thorneton in the stréet Kiluington Thruske Sowerbie Grastwijc and soone after crossing another growing of the mixture of the Willow and likewise of the Cuckewold beckes which ioine aboue Bridforth and running on till it come almost at Dawlton it maketh confluence with the Swale and go thence as one with all their samons by Thorneton bridge Mitton vpon Swale and so into the Ouze The Skell riseth out of the west two miles from Founteines abbeie and commeth as Leland saith with a faire course by the one side of Rippon as the Ure dooth on the other And on the bankes hereof stood the famous abbeie called Founteines or Adfontes so much renowmed for the lustie monks that sometimes dwelled in the same It receiueth also the Lauer water which riseth three miles from Kirbie and meeteth withall néere vnto Rippon and finallie falleth into the Ure a quarter of a mile beneath Rippon towne almost midwaie betwéene the North and Huicke bridges The Nidde which the booke of statutes called Nidor anno 13. Edw. 1 and thereto noteth it to be inriched with store of samon as are also the Wheof and Aire riseth among those hilles that lie by west northwest of Gnarresborow fiue miles aboue Pakeleie bridge and going in short processe of time by West-houses Lodgehouses Woodhall Newhouses Midlesmore Raunsgill Cowthouse Gowthwall Bureleie Brimham Hampeswale and soone after méeting with the Killingale becke it goeth after the confluence by Bilton parke Gnaresbridge Washford Cathall Willesthorpe Munketon or Nonmocke and so into the Ouze fouretéene miles beneath Gnaresborow being increased by the waie with verie few or no waters of anie countenauce Leland hauing said thus much of the Nidde addeth here vnto the names or two other waters that is to saie the Couer and the Burne which doo fall likewise into the Ure or Ouze But as he saith little of the same so among all my pamphlets I can gather no more of them than that the first riseth six miles aboue Couerham by west and falleth into the Ure a little beneath Middleham bridge which is two miles beneath the towne of Couerham As for the Burne it riseth at More hilles and falleth into the said riuer a little beneath Massham bridge And so much of these two The Wharffe or Gwerfe ariseth aboue Ughtershaw from whence it runneth to Beggermons Rosemill Hubberham Backden Starbotton Kettlewell Cunniston in Kettlewell and here it meeteth with a rill comming from Haltongill chappell by Arnecliffe and ioining withall northeast of Kilneseie crag it passeth ouer by the lower grounds to Girsington and receiuing a rill there also from Tresfeld parke it proceedeth on to Brunfall bridge Furthermore at Appletréewâ—jc it méeteth with a rill from by north and thence goeth to Barden towre Bolton Beth and Misseie hall where it crosseth a rill comming from by west thence to Addingham taking in there also another from by west and so to Ikeleie and receiuing yer long another by north from Denton hall it hasteth to Weston Uauasour Oteleie and Letheleie where it taketh in the Padside the Washburne both in one streame from Lindleie ward and thence to Casteie chappell and there it crosseth one from by north and another yer long from by south and so to Yardwood castell Kerebie Woodhall Collingham Linton Wetherbie Thorpatch Newton Tadeaster and when it hath receiued the Cockebecke from southwest that goeth by Barwie Aberfoorth Leadhall and Grimston it runneth to Exton Kirbie Wharfe Uskell Rither Nunapleton so into the Ouze beneath Cawood a castell belonging to the archbishop of Yorke where he vseth oft to lie when he refresheth himselfe with change of aire and shift of habitation for the auoiding of such infection as may otherwise ingender by his long abode in one place for want of due purgation and airing of his house The Air or Arre riseth out of a lake or tarne south of Darnbrooke wherein as I heare is none other fish but red trowt and perch Leland saith it riseth néere vnto Orton in Crauen wherfore the ods is but little It goeth therefore from thence to Mawlam Hamlith Kirbie Moldale Calton hall Areton and so foorth till it come almost to Gargraue there crossing the Otterburne water on the wâ—st and the Winterburne on the north which at Flasbie receiueth a rill from Helton as I heare Being past Gargraue our Air goeth on to Eshton Elswood and so foorth on first receiuing a brooke
from southwest whereof one branch commeth by Marton the other by Thorneton which meete about Broughton then another from northeast that runneth by Skipton castell After this confluence it hasteth by manifold windlesses which caused thirteene bridges at the last to be ouer the same within a little space to Newbiggin Bradleie and Kildwijc by south east whereof it méeteth with one water from Mawsis and Glusburne or Glukesburne called Glike another likewise a little beneath from Seton beside two rilles from by north after which confluence it runneth by Reddlesden and ouer against this towne the Lacocke and the Woorth doo meet withall in one chanell as the Moreton water dooth on the north although it be somewhat lower Thence it goeth to Rishfoorth hall and so to Bungleie where it taketh a rill from Denholme parke to Shipeleie and there crossing another from Thorneton Leuenthorpe and Bradleie it goeth to Caluerleie to Christall and so to Léedes where one water runneth there into by north from Wettlewood two other from by south in one chanell wherof the first hath two armes of which the one commeth from Pudseie chappell the other from Adwalton their confluence being made aboue Farnesleie hall The other likewise hath two heads whereof one is aboue Morleie the other commeth from Domingleie and méeting with the first not far southwest of Leedes they fall both into the Air and so run with the same to Swillington and there taking in the Rodwell becke south of the bridge it proceedeth to Ollerton Castleford Brotherton Ferribridge there receiuing the Went a becke from Pontefract or Pomfret which riseth of diuerse heads wherof one is among the cole pits Thence to Beall Berkin Kellington middle Hodleseie Templehirst Gowldall Snath Rawcliffe Newland Armie and so into the Ouze with an indifferent course Of all the riuers in the north Leland in so manie of his bookes as I haue séene saith least of this Mine annotations also are verie slender in the particular waters wherbie it is increased wherfore I was compelled of necessitie to conclude euen thus with the description of the same and had so left it in déed if I had not receiued one other note more to ad vnto it euen when the leafe was at the presse which saith as followeth in maner word for word There is a noble water that falleth into Air whose head as I take it is about Stanford From whence it goeth to Creston chappell to Lingfield and there about receiuing one rill neere Elfrabright bridge and also the Hebden by northwest it goeth to Brearleie hall and so taking in the third by north it proceedeth on eastward by Sorsbie bridge chappell and there a rill from southwest and so to Coppeleie hall Beneath this place I find also that it receiueth one rill from Hallifax which riseth from two heads and two other from southwest of which one commeth by Baresland and Staneland in one chanell as I read So that after this confluence the aforesaid water goeth on toward Cowford bridge and as it taketh in two rilles aboue the same on the north side so beneath that bridge there falleth into it a pretie arme increased by sundrie waters coÌ„ming from by south as from Marsheden chappell from Holinesworth chappell and Kirke-Heton each one growing of sundrie heads whereof I would saie more if I had more intelligence of their seuerall gates and passages But to proceed From Cowford bridge it runneth to Munfeld and receiuing yer long one rill from Leuersage hall and another from Burshall by Dewesburie it goeth on northeast of Thornehull south of Horbirie thornes and thereabout crossing one rill from by south from Woller by new Milner Dam and soone after another from northwest called Chald rising in the Peke hils whereon Wakefield standeth and likewise the third from southeast and Waterton hall it goeth by Warmefield Newland Altoâ—â—es and finallie into the Aire west of Castelworth as I learne What the name of this riuer should be as yet I heare not and therefore no maruell that I doo not set it downe yet is it certeine that it is called Chald after his coÌ„fluence with the Chald and finallie Chaldair or Chaldar after it hath ioined with the Air or Ar. But what is this for his denominations from the head It shall suffice therefore thus farre to haue shewed the course thereof and as for the name I passe it ouer vntill another time The Trent is one of the most excellent riuers in the land not onelie for store of samon sturgeon and sundrie other kinds of delicate fish wherewith it dooth abound but also for that it is increased with so manie waters as for that onelie cause it may be compared wither with the Ouze or Sauerne I meane the second Ouze whose course I haue latelie described It riseth of two heads which ioine beneath Norton in the moore and from thence goeth to Hilton abbeie Bucknell church and aboue Stoke receiueth in the Foulebrooke water which commeth thither from Tunstall by Shelton and finallie making a confluence they go to Hanfleet where they méet with another on the same side that descendeth from Newcastell vnder Line which Leland taketh to be the verie Trent it selfe saieng that it riseth in the hils aboue Newcastell as may be séene by his commentaries But to proceed At Trentham or not farre from thence it crosseth a riueret from northeast whose name I know not thence going to Stone Aston Stoke Burston the Sandons and Weston a little aboue Shubburne Hawood it receiueth the Sow a great chanell increased with sundrie waters which I will here describe leauing the Trent at Shubburne till I come backe againe The Sow descendeth from the hilles aboue Whitemoore chappell and goeth by Charleton and Stawne and beneath Shalford ioineth with another by northeast that commeth from bishops Offeleie Egleshall Chesbie Raunton After this confluence also it runneth by Bridgeford Tillington Stafford beneath which towne it crosseth the Penke becke that riseth aboue Nigleton Berwood aboue Penke bridge vniteth it selfe with another comming from Knightleie ward by Gnashall church Eaton and so going foorth as one it is not long yer they fall into Sow after they haue passed Draiton Dunstan Acton and Banswich where loosing their names they with the Sow the Sow with them doo ioine with the Trent at Shubburne vpon the southerlie banke From Shubburne the Trent goeth on to little Harwood meeting by the waie one rill at Ousleie bridge and another south of Riddlesleie thence by Hawksberie Mauestane Ridware and so toward Yoxhall where I must state a while to consider of other waters wherewith I meet in this voiage Of these therefore the lesser commeth in by south from Farwall the other from by west a faire streame and increased with two brooks whereof the first riseth in Nedewood forrest northeast of Haggersleie parke whereinto falleth another west of Hamsteed Ridware called Blith
which riseth among the hilles in Whateleie moore aboue Weston Conie and thence going to the same towne it commeth to Druicote alià s Dracote Painsleie Gratwitch Grimleie Aldmaston Hamstéed Ridware and finallie into the Trent directlie west of Yoxhall which runneth also from thence leauing kings Bromleie in a parke as I take it on the left hand and the Blacke water comming from Southton and Lichfield on the right goeth streightwaie to Catton where it méeteth with the Tame whose course I describe as followeth It riseth in Staffordshire as I remember not farre from Petteshall and goeth foorth by Hamsted toward Pirihall and Brimichams Aston taking in by the waie a rill on each side whereof the first groweth through a confluence of two waters the one of them comming from Tipton the other from Aldburie and so running as one by Wedburie till they fall into the same The latter commeth from Woolfhall and ioineth with it on the left hand After this and when it is past the aforesaid places it crosseth in like sort a rill from Smethike ward thence it goeth to Yarneton hall beneath which it méeteth with the Rhée and thence through the parke at Parke hall by Watercote crossing finallie the Cole whose head is in the forrest by Kingesnorton wood and hath this course whereof I now giue notice It riseth as I said in the forrest by Kingesnorton wood and going by Yareleie and Kingeshirst it méeteth betweene that and the parke with a water running betwéene Helmedon and Sheldon Thence it passeth on to Coleshull by east whereof it ioineth with a brooke mounting southwest of Golthull called Blith which going by Henwood and Barston crosseth on ech side of Temple Balshall a rill whereof one commeth thorough the Quéenes parke or chase that lieth by west of Kenelworth the other by Kenelworth castell it selfe from about Haselie parke After which confluences it procéedeth in like maner to Hampton in Arden and the Packingtons and so to Coleshull where it meeteth with the Cole that going a little further vniteth it selfe with the Burne on the one side whereinto runneth a water comming from Ansleie on the east and soone after on the other dooth fall into the Tame that which some call the Rhee a common name to all waters that mooue and run from their head For 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Gréeke is to flow and run although in truth it is proper to the sea onelie to flow Leland nameth the Brimicham water whose head as I heare is aboue Norffield so that his course shuld be by Kingesnorton Bremicham Budston hall till it fall beneath Yarneton into the Tame it selfe that runneth after these confluences on by Lée Kingesbirie parke and going by east of Oraiton Basset parke to Falkesleie bridge it méeteth with another water called Burne also comming from Hammerwich church by Chesterford Shenton Thickebrowne and the north side of Oraition Basset parke wherof I spake before From hence our Tame runneth on to Tamworth there taking in the Anchor by east whose description I had in this maner deliuered vnto me It riseth aboue Burton from whence it goeth by Nonneaton Witherleie and Atherstone Yer long also it taketh in a water from northeast which commeth by Huglescote Shapton Cunston Twicrosse vniting it selfe with a water from Bosworth Ratcliffe so to the Anchor which after this confluence passeth by Whittendon Crindon Pollesworth Armington Tamworth so into Tame that hasteth to Hopwash Comberford hall Telford and soone after crossing a rill that riseth short of Swinfield hall and commeth by Festirike it runneth not farre from Eroxhall and so to Catton thereabout receiuing his last increase not worthie to be omitted This brooke is named Mese and it riseth in the great parke that lieth betwéene Worthington and Smothike from whence also it goeth by Ashhie de la Souche Packington Mesham and Stretton and therabout crossing a rill about Nethersale grange from Ouersale by east it proceedeth by Chilcote Clifton Croxall into the Thame and both out of hand into the maine riuer a mile aboue Repton Leland writing of this riuer as I earst noted saith thereof in this wise Into the Thame also runneth the Bremicham brooke which riseth foure or fiue miles about Bremicham in the Blacke hils in Worcestershire and goeth into the aforesaid water a mile aboue Crudworth bridge Certes saith he this Bremicham is a towne mainteined chieflie by smiths nailers cutlers edgetoole forgers lorimers or bitmakers which haue their iron out of Stafford and Warwâ—jc shires and â—oles also out of the first countie Hitherto Leland Now to resume the Trent which being growen to some greatnesse goeth on to Walton Drakelow and there crossing a water that commeth by Nowbold hall it runneth to Stapenell Winshull Wightmere and Newton South where it receiueth two chanels within a short space to be described apart The first of these is called the Dou or Doue it riseth about the thrée shires méere and is as it were limes betweene Stafford and Darbishires vntill it come at the Trent Descending therefore from the head it goeth by Earlesbooth Pilsburie grange Hartington Wolscot Eaton Hunsington grange and aboue Thorpe receiueth the Manifold water so called bicause of the sundrie crinckling rills that it receiueth and turnagaines that it selfe sheweth before it come at the Dou. Rising therefore not farre from Are edge crosse in the bottome thereby it runneth from thence to Longmore Shéene Warslow chappell and Welton Beneath Welton also it taketh in the Hansleie water that commeth out of Blackemoore hilles to Watersall where it falleth into the ground and afterward mounting againe is receiued into the Manifold north of Throwleie as I heare which goeth from thence to Ilam and aboue Thorpe dooth cast it selfe into Dou. Hauing therefore met togither after this maner the Dou procéedeth on to Maplington beneath which it crosseth one water descending from Brassington by Fennie Bentleie and another somewhat lower that commeth from Hooston hall by Hognaston and Ashburne and then going to Matterfield Narburie Ellaston Rawston Rowcester it meeteth with the Churne euen here to be described before I go anie further It riseth a good waie aboue Delacrasse abbie and comming thither by Hellesbie wood it taketh in the Dunsmere betweene Harracrasse and Leike Thence it goeth to the Walgrange and a little beneath receiueth the Yendor that commeth from aboue Harton thence to Cheddleton and hauing crossed the Ashenhirst brooke aboue Cnutes hall it runneth by Ypston Froghall Below hill Alton castell Préestwood and at Rowcester falleth into the Dou which yer long also receiueth a rill from Crowsden and then going to Eton méeteth first with the Teine that commeth thither from each side of Chedleie by Teinetwone Bramhirst and Stranehill Secondlie with the Uncester or Uttoxeter water and then going on to Merchington Sidberie Cawlton it crosseth a brooke from Sidmister college by Saperton From
with a faire riuer increased by diuerse waters before it come at the Doue whereinto it falleth as I heare northeast of Mexburgh After this confluence likewise the Doue goeth by Sprothorow to Warnesworth Doncaster Wheatleie there méeting with the Hampall créeke on the northeast side which riseth east of Kirbie thence to Sandall Kirke Sandall Branwith ferrie Stanford Fishlake and so to Thuorne or Thurne where it crosseth the Idle whose description followeth and finallie into Trent and so into the Humber But before I deale with the description of the Idle I will adde somewhat of the Rume a faire water For though the description thereof be not so exactlie deliuered me as I looked for yet such as it is I will set downe conferring it with Lelands booke and helping their defect so much as to me is possible It riseth by south of Maunsfield fiue miles from Rumford abbeie and when the streame commeth neere the abbeie it casteth it selfe abroad and maketh a faire lake After this it commeth againe into a narrow chanell and so goeth on to Rumford village carrieng the Budbie and the Gerberton waters withall From thence and with a méetlie long course it goeth to Bawtrie or Uautrie a market towne in Nottinghamshire fiue miles from Doncaster and so into the Trent Beneath Rumford also commeth in the Girt which goeth vnto Southwell milles and so into the Trent Now as concerning our Idle The Idle which some call Brier streame riseth at Sutton in Ashfield from whence it runneth to Maunsfield Clipston Allexton where it taketh in a water that riseth in the forrest one mile north of Bledworth and runneth on by Rughford abbeie till it come to Allexton The forresters call this Manbecke whereof Leland also speaketh who describeth it in this maner Manbrooke riseth somewhere about Linthirst wood from whence it goeth to Blisthorpe and so to Allerton But to procéed The Idle hauing taken in the Manbecke it runneth to Bothomsall by Boughton Perlethorpe but yer it come there it méeteth the Meding Maiden or Midding brooke which rising about Teuersall goeth to Pleasleie Nettleworth Sawcan Warsop Budleie Thursbie Bothomsall and so into the Idle After this it proceedeth to Houghton west Draiton but yer it touch at Graunston or Gaunston it taketh in the Wilie which commeth from Clowne to Creswell Holbecke Woodhouse Wilebecke Normenton Elsleie Graunston and so into the Idle Being thus increased the Idle runneth on to Idleton Ordsall Retford Bollam Tilneie Matterseie abbeie and so to Bawtrie where it méeteth another from the shire Okes that riseth aboue Geitford passeth on to Worksop or Radfurth Osberton Bilbie and Blith there vniting it selfe with thrée rilles in one bottome whereof one commeth from Waldingwell to Careleton and so thorough a parke to Blith towne another from by west Furbecke thrée miles and so to Blith but the third out of the White water néere to Blith and there being vnited they passe on to Scrobie and so into the Idle From hence it runneth on to Missen to Sadlers bridge and next of all to Santoft where it méeteth with the Sandbecke which rising not farre from Sandbecke towne passeth by Tickhill Rosington bridge Brampton Rilholme Lindholme and one mile south of Santoft into the Idle water which runneth from thence to Thorne where it méeteth with the Doue and so with it to Crowleie Finallie inuironing the I le of Areholme it goeth vnto Garthorpe Focorbie so into the Trent Leland writing of the Wilie Wile or Gwilie as some write it saith thus therof The Wile hath two heads whereof one is not farre aboue the place where Wilbecke abbeie stood the other riseth further off by west aboue Welbecke or Wilebecke towne finallie ioining in one they runne to Cuckeneie village where crossing a becke that commeth in from by west it holdeth on two miles further there taking in the second rill and so resort to Rufford To this riuer likewise saith he doo two other waters repaire whereof the one goeth hard by Maunsfield rising foure miles from thence by west and then commeth thrée miles lower to Rufford the other so far as I remember goeth quite through the towne Of such falles of waters as ioine with the sea betweene Humber and the Thames Chap. 16. HAuing in this maner described the Ouze and such riuers as fall into the same now it resteth that I procéed in my voiage toward the Thames according to my former order Being therefore come againe into the maine sea I find no water of anie countenance or course to my remembrance till I come vnto the Ancolme a goodlie water which riseth east of Mercate Rafing and from thence goeth by middle Rafing Then receiuing a short till from by south it runneth on vnder two bridges by the waie till it come to Wingall northeast where also it méeteth with another brooke from Wâ—â—â—bie that commeth thither by Uresbie goeth by Cadneie taking in the two rilles in one bottome that descend from Howsham and north Leiseie and thence to Newsted Glanford Wardeleie Thorneham Applebie Horflow north Ferribie and so into the sea Being past Ancolme we go about the Nesse and so to the fall of the water which commeth from Keledie by Cotham abbeie Nersham abbeie Thorneton and leauing Coxhill by west it falleth into the Ocean The next is the fall of another brooke comming from Fleting all alongst by Stasâ—ingburne Then crossed we Grimsbie gullet which issuing aboue Erebie commeth to Lasebie the two Cotes and then into the sea After this we passed by another portlet whose backwater descendeth from Balesbie by Ashbie Briggesleie Wath and Towneie and finallie to the next issue before we come at Saltflete which branching at the last leaueth a prettie Iland wherein Comsholme village standeth This water riseth short as I heare of Tathe well from whence it goeth to Rathbie Hallington Estington Lowth Kidirington Auingham and then branching aboue north Somerton one arme méeteth with the sea by Grauethorpe the other by north of Somercote Saltflete water hath but a short course for rising among the Cockeringtons it commeth to the sea at Saltflete hauen howbeit the next vnto it is of a longer race for it riseth as I take it at Cawthorpe paroch and descendeth by Legburne the Carletons the west middle and east Saltfletes and so into the Ocean The water that riseth aboue Ormesbie and Oribie goeth to Cawsbie Swabie abbeie Clathorpe Belew Tattle Witherne Stane and northcast of Thetilthorpe into the maine sea Maplethorpe water riseth at Tharesthorpe and going by Markeleie Folethorpe and Truthorpe it is not long yer it méet with the Germane Ocean Then come we to the issue that commeth from aboue Hotost and thence to Mumbie chappell whither the water comming from Claxbie Willowbie and Slouthbie and whereinto another rill falleth dooth runne as there to doo homage vnto their lord and souereigne As for Ingold mill
créeke I passe it ouer and come streight to another water descending from Burge by Skegnes From hence I go to the issue of a faire brooke which as I heare dooth rise at Tetford and thence goeth by Somerbie Bagenderbie Ashwardbie Sawsthorpe Partneie Ashbie the Stepings Thorpe croft and so into the sea As for Wainflete water it commeth from the east sea and goeth betwéene S. Maries Alhallowes by Wainflete towne and treading the path of his predecessors emptieth his chanell to the maintenance of the sea Now come I to the course of the Witham a famous riuer whereof goeth the beword frequented of old and also of Ancolme which I before described Ancolme ele and Witham pike Search all England and find not the like Leland calleth it Lindis diuerse the Rhe and I haue read all these names my selfe and thereto that the Lincolneshire men were called in old time Coritani and their head citie Lindus Lindon or Linodunum in which region also Ptolomie placeth Rage which some take to be Notingham except my memorie doo faile me It riseth among the Wickhams in the edge of Lincolnshire and as I take it in south-Wickham paroch from whence it goeth to Coâ—sterworth Easton Kirkestoke Paunton and Paunton Houghton and at Grantham taketh in a rill from by southwest as I heare From Grantham it runneth to Man Thorpe Bolton and Barneston where crossing a becke from northeast it procéedeth further southwest ward by Mereston toward Faston there also taking in a brooke that riseth about Denton and goeth by Sidbrooke it hasteth to Dodington Clapale Barmebie Beckingham Stapleford Bassingham Thursbie and beneath Amburgh crosseth a water that commeth from Stogilthorpe by Somerton castell After this confluence also our Witham goeth still foorth on his waie to the Hickhams Boltham Bracebridge and Lincolne it selfe for which the Normans write Nicholl by transposition of the letters or as I may better saie corruption of the word But yer it come there it maketh certeine pooles whereof one is called Swan poole and soone after diuiding it selfe into armes they run both thorough the lower part of Lincolne each of them hauing a bridge of stone ouer it thereby to passe through the principall stréet and as the bigger arme is well able to beare their fisher botes so the lesser is not without his seuerall commodities At Lincolne also this noble riuer méeteth with the Fosse dike whereby in great floods vessels may come from the Trents side to Lincolne For betweene Torkseie where it beginneth and Lincolne citie where it endeth are not aboue seuen miles as Leland hath remembred Bishop Atwater began to clense this ditch thinking to bring great vessels from Trent to Lincolne in his time but sith he died before it was performed there hath no man beene since so well minded as to prosecute his purpose The course moreouer of this our streame following from Lincolne to Boston is fiftie miles by water but if you mind to ferrie you shall haue but 24. For there are foure common places where men are ferried ouer as Short ferrie fiue miles from Lincolne Tatersall ferrie eight miles from Short ferrie Dogdike ferrie a mile Langreth ferrie fiue miles and so manie finallie to Boston But to go forward with the course of Lindis whereof the whole prouince hath béene called Lindeseie when it is past Linclone it goeth by Shepewash Wassingburg Fiskerton and soone after taketh in sundrie riuers in one chanell whereby his greatnesse is verie much increased From this confluence it goeth to Bardolfe and there receiuing a rill descending from betweeâ—e Sotbie and Randbie and going by Harton it slideth foorth by Tupham to Tatersall castell taking vp there in like sort thrée small rills by the waie whereof I haue small notice as yet and therefore I referre them vnto a further consideration to be had of them hereafter if it shall please God that I may liue to haue the filling of these rude pamphlets yet once againe somewhat more leasure to peruse them than at this time is granted Finallie being past Tatersall and Dogdike ferrie the Witham goeth toward Boston thence into the sea Thus haue I briestie dispatched this noble riuer Witham But hauing another note deliuered me thereof from a fréend I will yéeld so farre vnto his gratification that I will remember his trauell here and set downe also what he hath written thereof although the riuer be sufficientlie described alredie Into Witham therefore from by north and seuen miles beneath Lincolne there falleth a faire water the head whereof is at Hakethorne from whence it goeth by Hanworth Snarford Resbie Stainton and at Bullington méeteth with a water on ech side whereof one commeth from Haiton and Turxington the other from Sudbrooke and likewise beneath Birlings with the third comming from Barkeworth by Stansted and ioining all in one soone after it is not long yer it fall into the chanell of Witham and so are neuer more heard of There is also a brooke by southwest that commeth from Kirbie to Cateleie Biltingams and the Ferrie At Taterfall it méeteth with the Bane which riseth aboue Burgh and néere vnto Ludford goeth downe to Dunnington Stanigod Hemmingsbie Bamburgh Fillington Horne castell where it crosseth a rill from Belchworth Thornton Marton Halton Kirkebie Comsbie Tatersall and so to Dogdike ferrie Aboue Boston likewise it taketh in a water comming from Lusebie by Bolingbrooke Stickeford Stickneie Sibbeseie and Hildrike And to Boston towne it selfe doo finallie come sundrie brookes in one chanell called Hammond becke which rising at Donesbie runneth on to Wrightbold where it casteth one arme into Holiwell water Thence it hasteth toward Dunnington receiuing foure brookes by the waie whereof the first commeth from Milshorpe the second from Fokingham called Bollingborow or after some I wote not vpon what occasion Sempringham water the third from Bridge end the fourth from Sempringham and afterwards the maine streame is found to run by Kirton holme and so into the Witham Into the Wiland likewise falleth the Holiwell which riseth of a spring that runneth toward the east from Haliwell to Onebie Esonden Gretford and so to Catbridge where it receiueth another rising at Witham and west of Manthorpe and the second comming from Laund and so run from thence togither to Willesthorpe and Catbridge and then into the Haliwell which after these confluences goeth to Tetford and Eastcote where it meeteth with a draine comming from Bourne and so through the sennes to Pinchbecke Surfleet and Fosdike where it méeteth with the Welland in the mouth of the Wash as I haue noted vnto you Hauing thus set foorth the riuers that fall into the Witham now come we to the Wiland or Welland wherevnto we repaire after we be past Boston as drawing by litle and litle toward the Girwies which inhabit in the fennes for Gir in the old Saxon speach dooth signifie déepe fennes and marishes and these beginning at Peterborow eastward extend themselues by the
space of thrée score miles more as Hugh of Peterborow writeth This streame riseth about Sibbertoft and running betwéene Bosworth and Howthorpe it goeth to Féedingworth Merson Bubberham Trussell Herborow receiuing there the Braie which commeth from Braiebrooke castell to Bowton Weston Wiland Ashleie Medburne Rokingham and Cawcot where a riueret called little Eie méeteth withall comming from east Norton by Alexstone Stocke Faston and Drie stocke From Cawcot it goeth to Gritto Harringworth Seton Wauerlie Duddington Collie Weston Eston and there ioineth with the third called Warke not far from Ketton which commeth from Lie by Preston Wing Lindon Luffenham c. Thence it goeth on by Tinwell to Stanford crossing the Brooke water and Whitnelbecke both in one bottome and from Stanford by Talington Maxeie to Mercate Deeping Crowland where it almost meeteth with the Auon then to Spalding Whapland and so into the sea Leland writing of this Wiland addeth these words which I will not omit sith in mine opinion they are worthie to be noted for better consideration to be had in the said water and his course The Wiland saith he going by Crowland at Newdrene diuideth it selfe into two branches of which one goeth vp to Spalding called Newdrene and so into the sea at Fossedike Stow the other named the South into Wisbech This latter also parteth it selfe two miles from Crowland sendeth a rill called Writhlake by Thorneie where it méeteth with an arme of the Nene that commeth from Peterborow and holdeth course with the broad streame till it be come to Murho six miles from Wisbech where it falleth into the South Out of the South in like sort falleth another arme called Sheepes eie and at Hopelode which is fouretéene miles from Lin did fall into the sea But now the course of that streame is ceased wherevpon the inhabitants susteine manie grieuous flouds bicause the mouth is stanched by which it had accesse before into the sea Hitherto Leland Of the course of this riuer also from Stanford I note this furthermore out of another writing in my time Being past Stanton saith he it goeth by Burghleie Uffington Tallington Maxeie Déeping east Deeping and comming to Waldram hall it brancheth into two armes whereof that which goeth to Singlesole receiueth the Nene out of Cambridgeshire and then going by Dowesdale Trekenhole and winding at last to Wisbech it goeth by Liuerington saint Maries and so into the sea The other arme hasteth to Crowland Clowthouse Bretherhouse Pikale Cowbecke and Spalding Here also it receiueth the Baston dreane Longtost dreane Déeping dreane and thence goeth by Wickham into the sea taking withall on the right hand sundrie other dreanes And thus farre he Next of all when we are past these we come to another fall of water into the Wash which descendeth directlie from Whaplade dreane to Whaplade towne in Holland but bicause it is a water of small importance I passe from thence as hasting to the Nene of both the more noble riuer and about the middest thereof in place is a certeine swallow so déepe and so cold in the middest of summer that no man dare diue to the bottome thereof for coldnesse and yet for all that in winter neuer found to haue béene touched with frost much lesse to be couered with I se The next therefore to be described is the Auon otherwise called Nene which the said author describeth after this maner The Nene beginneth foure miles aboue Northampton in Nene méere where it riseth out of two heads which ioine about Northampton Of this riuer the citie and countrie beareth the name although we now pronounce Hampton for Auondune which errour is committed also in south Auondune as we may easilie see In another place Leland describeth the said riuer after this maner The Auon riseth in Nene méere field and going by Oundale and Peterborow it diuideth it selfe into thrée armes whereof one goeth to Horneie another to Wisbech the third to Ramseie and afterward being vnited againe they fall into the sea not verie farre from Lin. Finallie the descent of these waters leaue here a great sort of Ilands wherof of Elie Crowland and Merfland are the chiefe Hitherto Leland Howbeit because neither of these descriptions touch the course of this riuer at the full I will set downe the third which shall supplie whatsoeuer the other doo want The Auon therefore arising in Nenemere field is increased with manie rilles before it come at Northhampton one aboue Kings thorpe from whence it goeth to Dallington and so to Northhampton where it receiueth the Wedon And here I will staie till I haue described this riuer The Wedon therefore riseth at Faulesse in master Knightlies pooles and in Badbie plashes also are certeine springs that resort vnto this streame Faulesse pooles are a mile from Chareton where the head of Chare riuer is that runneth to Banberie There is but an hill called Alberie hill betwéene the heads of these two riuers From the said hill therefore the Weldon directeth his course to Badbie Newenham Euerton Wedon betwixt which and Floretowne it receiueth the Florus a pretie water rising of foure heads whereof the one is at Dauentrie another at Watford the third at long Bucke the fourth aboue Whilton and then passeth on to Heiford Kislingberie Upton and so to Northhampton where it falleth into the Auon receiuing finallie by the waie the Bugbrooke water at Heâ—ford Patâ—hall water néere â—islingberie and finallie Preston water beneath Upton which running from Preston by Wootton méeteth at the last with Milton rill and so fall into Auon Now to resume the tractation of our Auon From Northhampton therefore it runneth by Houghton great Billing Whitstone Dodington and Willingborow where we must staie a while for betweene Willingborow and Higham Ferries it receiueth a pretie water comming from about Kilmarsh which going by Ardingworth Daisborow Rusheton Newton Gaddington Boughton Warketon Kettering Berton and Burton méeteth there with Rothwell water which runneth west of Kettering to Hisham the greater Haridon and then into the Auon Being therfore past Burton our maine streame goeth to Higham Ferries Artleborow Kingsted Woodford and méeting thereby with Cranford rill to Thraxston north whereof it ioineth also with the Ocleie water that commeth from Sudborow and Lowicke to old Umkles Waden ho Pilketon Toke where it taketh in the Liueden becke and so to Oundell Cotterstocke Tansoner and betweene Tothering and Warmington receiueth the Corbie water which rising at Corbie goeth by Weldon Deneshap Bulwich Bletherwijc Fineshed Axthorpe Newton Tothering and so into the Auon After this the said Auon goeth to Elton Massington Yerwell Sutton Castor Allerton and so to Peterborow where it diuideth it selfe into sundrie armes and those into seuerall branches and draines among the fennes and medowes not possible almost to be numbred before it méet with the sea on the one side of the countrie and fall into the Ouze
honorable Thomas Howard with his houshold doo soiourne and sometime stood an abbeie of Benedictine moonks before their generall suppression From Awdleie end it goeth to Littleburie the lesse and greater Chesterfords Yealdune Hincstone Seoston or Sawson and néere vnto Shaleford receiueth the Babren that commeth by Linton Abbington Babrenham and Stapleford and so going forward it commeth at the last to Trompington which is a mile from Cambridge But yer it come altogither to Trompington it méeteth with the Barrington water as Leland calleth it but some other the Rhee a common name to all waters in the Saxon speech whereof I find this description to be touched by the waie The Rhée riseth short of Ashwell in Hertfordshire and passing vnder the bridge betweene Gilden Mordon and Downton and leauing Tadlow on the west side as I remember it goeth toward Crawden Malton Barrington Haselingfield and so into Granta taking sundrie rills with him from south and southwest as Wendie water southwest of Crawden Whaddon brooke southwest of Orwell Mildred becke southwest of Malton and finallie the Orme which commeth out of Armington or Ormendum well and goeth by Fulmere and Foxton and falleth into the same betweene Barrington and Harleston or Harston as they call it Now to procéed with our Granta From Trompington on the one side and Grantcester on the other it hasteth to Cambridge ward taking the Burne with it by the waie which descendeth from a castell of the same denomination wherein the Picotes and Peuerels sometime did inhabit Thence it goeth by sundrie colleges in Cambridge as the queenes college the kings college Clare hall Trinitie college S. Iohns c vnto the high bridge of Cambridge and betwéene the towne and the castell to Chesterton and receiuing by and by the Stoure or Sture at whose bridge the most famous mart in England is yearelie holden and kept from Chesterton it goeth to Ditton Milton and yer long méeting with two rilles from Bottesham and Wilberham in one bottome it runneth to Horningseie Water Bech and finallie here ioining with the Bulbecke water it goeth by Dennie and so forth into the Ouze fiftéene miles from Cambridge as Leland hath set downe And thus much of the third Isis or Ouze out of the aforesaid author wherevnto I haue not onelie added somewhat of mine owne experience but also of other mens notes whose diligent obseruation of the course of this riuer hath not a little helped me in the description of the same Now it resteth that we come neerer to the coast of Northfolke and set foorth such waters as we passe by vpon the same wherein I will deale so preciselie as I may and so farre will I trauell therein as I hope shall content euen the curious reader or if anie fault be made it shall not be so great but that after some trauell in the finding it shall with ease be corrected The first riuer that therefore we come vnto after we be past the confluence of Granta and the Ouze and within the iurisdiction of Northfolke is called the Burne This streame riseth not verie farre from Burne Bradfield aboue the greater Wheltham and from thence it goeth on to Nawnton Burie Farneham Martin Farneham Alhallowes Farneham Genouefa Hengraue Flemton Lackeford Icklingham and to Milden hall a little beneath which it meeteth with the Dale water that springeth not farre from Catilege and going by Asheleie Moulton a benefice as the report goeth not verie well prouided for to Kenford Kenet Bradingham Frekenham it falleth at the last not farre from Iselham into the Burne from whence they go togither as one into the Ouze With the Burne also there ioineth a water comming from about Lidgate a little beneath Iselham and not verie far from Mildenhall The Dune head and rising of Wauenheie are not much in sunder for as it is supposed they are both not farre distant from the bridge betweene Lopham and Ford wherby the one runneth east and the other west as I haue béene informed The Dune goeth first of all by Feltham then to Hopton to Kinets hall where it méeteth with a water cōming out of a lake short of Banham going by Quiddenham Herling Gasthorpe and so on both in one chanell they run to Ewston Here they méet in like sort with another descending from two heads wherof the one is néere vnto Pakenham the other to Tauestocke as I heare Certes these heads ioine aboue Ilesworth not farre from Stow Langtoft from whence they go to Yxworth Thorpe Berdwell Hunnington Fakenham and so into the Dune at Ewston as I said From hence also they hasten to Downeham which of this riuer doth seeme to borow his name South Rée rill I passe ouer as not worthie the description because it is so small Next vnto this riuer on the south side is the Braden or Bradunus which riseth at Bradenham and goeth by Necton north Peckenham south Peckenham Kirsingham Bedneie Langford Igbor Munford North Old Stockebridge Ferdham Helgie and so into the Ouze The néerest vnto this is another which riseth about Lukeham and from thence commeth to Lexham Massingham Newton the castell Acre Acres Nerboe Pentneie Wrongeie Rounghton which at one time might haue béene my liuing if I would haue giuen sir Thomas Rugband monie inough but now it belongeth to Gundeuill and Caius college in Cambridge Westchurch and so to Linne As so dooth also another by north of this which commeth from the east hilles by Congenham Grimston Bawseie Gaiwood whereof let this suffice And now giue eare to the rest sith I am past the Ouze Being past the mouth or fall of the Ouze we méet next of all with the Rising chase water which Ptolomie as some thinke doth call Metaris and descendeth from two heads and also the Ingell that commeth from about Snetsham From hence we go by the point of saint Edmund and so hold on our course till we come vnto the Burne which falleth into the sea by south from Waterden and going betwéene the Crakes to Burnham Thorpe and Burnham Norton it striketh at the last into the sea east of Burnham Norton a mile at the least except my coniecture doo faile me The Glow or Glowie riseth not far from Baconsthorpe in the hundred of Tunsted going by and by into Holt hundred it passeth by Hunworth Thornage Glawnsford Blackneie Clare and so into the sea receiuing there at hand also a rill by east which descendeth from the hilles lieng betwéene Killing towne and Waiburne The Wantsume riseth in Northfolke at Galesend in Holt hundred from whence it goeth to Watersend Townton Skelthorpe Farneham Pensthorpe Rieburg Ellingham and Billingsford And here it receiueth two waters in one bottome of which the first goeth by Stanfield and Beteleie the other by Wandling and Gressonhall and so run on ech his owne waie till they méet at Houndlington southwest of Billingsford with the Wantsume From hence they go
all togither to Below Ieng Weston and Moreton but yer it come to Moreton it méeteth with the Yowke which issuing about Yexham goeth by Matteshall and Barrow After this th◠said Wantsume goeth on by Ringland and so to Norwich the pontificall sée of the bishop to whome that iurisdiction apperteineth which seemeth by this memoriall yet remaining in the corrupted name of the water to be called in old time Venta or as Leland addeth Venta Icenorum But to procéed Beneath Norwich also it receiueth two waters in one chanell which I will seuerallie describe according to their courses noting their confluence to be at Bixleie within two miles of Norwich except my annotation deceiue me The first of these hath two heads wherof one mounteth vp southwest of Whinborow goeth by Gerneston and is the verie Hiere or Yare that drowneth the name of Wantsume so soone as he meeteth withall The other head riseth at Woo◠in Mitford hundred and after confluence with the Hiere at Caston going by Brandon Bixton Berford Erleham Cringlefield not farre from Bixleie as I said doth méet with his companion which is the second to be described as followeth It hath two heads also that méet northwest of Therstane and hereof the one commeth from Findon hall by Wrenningham from about Wotton by Hemnall Fretton Stretton and Tasborow till they ioine at Therston as I gaue notice aforehand From Therston therefore they go togither in one to Newton Shotesham Dunston Castor Arminghale Bixleie Lakenham and Trowse and then fall into the Wantsume beneath Norwich which hereafter is named Hiere The Hiere Yare or Gare therefore proceeding in his voiage as it were to salute his grandame the Ocean goeth from thence by Paswijc Surlingham Claxton and Yardleie and here it meeteth againe with another riueret descending from about Shotesham to Therstane Shedgraue Hockingham and so into Gare or Yare whereof Yardleie the towne receiueth denomination After this it goeth to Frethorpe and aboue Burgh castell meeteth with the Waueneie and so into the sea Into this riuer also falleth the Bure which rising at a towne of the same name passeth by Milton Buresdune Corpesteie Marington Blekeling Bure Alesham Brampton Buxton Horsted Werxham bridge Horning Raneworth and beneath Bastewijc receiueth the Thurine which riseth aboue Rolesbie then to Obie Clipsbie there also receiuing another from Filbie Rimham Castor and by Yarmouth into the Ocean The Waueneie afore mentioned riseth on the south side of Brisingham and is a limit betweene Northfolke and Suffolke Going therefore by Dis Starten not farre from Octe it méeteth with the Eie which riseth néere Ockold or betwéene it and Braisworth goeth on by Brome Octe and so into the Waueneie From thence our Waueneie runneth by Silam Brodish Nedam Harleston Rednam Alborow Flixton Bungeie Sheepemedow Barsham Beckles Albie at Whiteacre as I heare parteth in twaine or receiuing Milford water which is most likelie it goeth along by Somerleie Hormingfléet S. Olaues there receiuing the Frithstane or Fristan brooke out of low or litle England Fristan Burgh castell where it méeteth with the Hiere from thencefoorth accompanieth it as I said vnto the sea Willingham water commeth by Hensted Einsted or Enistate and falleth into the sea by south of Kesland The Cokell riseth south southwest of Cokeleie towne in Blithe hundred neere vnto Hastelworth it meeteth with the rill that commeth from Wisset and so going on togither by Wenhaston and Bliborow it falleth into the sea at an hauen betwéene Roidon and Walderswicke A little rill runneth also thereinto from Eston by Sowold and another from Dunwich by Walderswijke and hereby it wanteth little that Eston Nesse is not cut off and made a pretie Iland The Ford riseth at Poxford and going by Forderleie and Theberton it falleth at last into the Mismere créeke Into the Oreford hauen runneth one water comming from Aldborow ward by a narrow passage from the north into the south By west wherof when we are past a little I le it receiueth the second descending from betwéene Talingston and Framingham in Plomes hundred which cōming at last to Marleford meeteth with a rill southwest of Farnham called the Gleme that commeth by Rendlesham the Gleinhams and so passing foorth it taketh another at Snapesbridge comming from Carleton by Saxmundham Sternefield Snape Then going to Iken where it méeteth with the third rill at the west side it fetcheth a compasse by Sudburne east of Orford and so into the hauen Next vnto this by west of Orford there runneth vp another créeke by Butleie whereinto the waters comming from Cellesford and from the Ike doo run both in one bottome And thus much of Orford hauen The Deue riseth in Debenham in the hundred of Hertesméere and from thence goeth to Mickford Winston Cretingham Lethringham Wickham hitherto still creeping toward the south but then going in maner full south it runneth neere vnto Ash Rendlesham Ufford Melton and Woodbridge beneath which it receiueth on the west side a water comming of two heads wherof one is by north from Otelcie and the other by south from Henleie which ioining west of Mertelsham go vnto the said towne and so into the Deue east of Mertelsham abouesaid From thence the Deue goeth by Waldringfield and Henleie and méeting soone after with Brightwell brooke it hasteth into the maine sea leauing Bawdseie on the east where the fall therof is called Bawdseie hauen Ure riseth not farre from Bacton in Hertesmeere hundred and thense descendeth into Stow hundred by Gipping Newton Dagworth Stow beneath which it méeteth with a water comming from Rattlesden by one house and so going on to Nedeham through Bosméere and Claidon hundreds to Blakenham Bramford Ypswich receiuing beneath Stoke which lieth ouer against Ypswich the Chatsham water that goeth by Belsted and so into the Ure at the mouth whereof is a maruellous deepe and large pit whereof some marriners saie that they could neuer find the bottome and therefore calling it a well and ioining the name of the riuer withall it commeth to passe that the hauen there is called Urewell for which in these daies we doo pronounce it Orwell Into this hauen also the Sture or Stoure hath readie passage which remaineth in this treatise next of all to be described The Sture or Stoure parteth Essex from Suffolke as Houeden saith and experience confirmeth It ariseth in Suffolke out of a lake neere vnto a towne called Stourméere For although there come two rilles vnto the same whereof the one descendeth from Thixlo the Wratings and Ketton the other from Horshed parke by Hauerill c yet in summer time they are often drie so that they cannot be said to be perpetuall heads vnto the aforesaid riuer The Stoure therefore being as I take it called by Ptolomie Edomania for thereon toward the mouth standeth a prettie towne named Manitrée which carieth some shadow
of that ancient name thereof vnto this daie if my coniecture be any thing ariseth at Stouremeere which is a poole conteining twentie acres of ground at the least the one side whereof is full of alders the other of réeds wherin the great store of fish there bred is not a little succoured From this méere also it goeth to Bathorne bridge to Stocke clare Cawndish Pentlo Paules Beauchampe Milford Foxerth Buresleie Sudburie Bures Boxsted Stoke Nailand Lanham Dedham Strotford east Baxfold Brampton Manitree Catwade bridge and so into the sea where in the vexie fall also it ioineth with Orwell hauen so néere that of manie they are reputed as one and parted but by a shingle that dooth run along betwéene them neither dooth it passe cléere in this voiage but as it were often occupied by the waie in receiuing sundrie brookes and rilles not héere to be omitted For on Essex side it hath one from Hemsted which goeth by Bumsted and Birdbrooke another rising short of Foxerth that runneth by water Beauchampe Brundon and falleth into the same at Badlington west of Sudburie and the third that glideth by Horkesleie and méeteth withall west of Boxsted On the north or vpon Suffolke side it receiueth one descending from Catiledge by Bradleie Thurlow Wratting Kiddington and at Hauerell falleth into this Sture The second descendeth northward from Posling field and ioineth therewith east of Clare It was in old time called Cicux or Ceuxis and it méeteth with the Stoure in such wise that they séeme to make a right angle in the point almost wherof standeth a ruinous castell Howbeit as sithence which time this water in some mens iudgement hath béene named Clarus not so much for the greatnesse as cleerenesse of the streame euen so the Stoure it selfe was also called Ens as they say and after their confluence the whole Clarens which giueth denomination to a duchie of this Iland of no small fame and honour But these are but meere fables sith the word Clare is deriued from the towne wherein was an house of religion erected to one Clara and Clarens brought from the same because of an honour the prince had in those parties which may suffice to know from whence the name proceedeth The third ariseth of two heads whereof one commeth from Wickham brooke the other from Chedbar in Risbie hundred and ioining about Stanfield it goeth by Hawton Somerton Boxsted Stansted and north of Foxerth falleth into Stoure The fourth issueth from betwéene the Waldingfields and goeth by Edwardstone Boxsted Alington Polsted Stoke and so at south Boxsted falleth into the same The fift riseth northwest of Cockefield and goeth to Cockefield Laneham Brimsleie Midling and receiuing Kettle Baston water southwest of Chelsworth and likewise the Breton that commeth from Bretenham by Hitcheham and Bisseton stréet on the south east of the same towne it goeth in by Nedging Aldham Hadleie Lainham Shellie Higham and so into the Stoure The sixt is a little rill descending southwest from Chappell The seuenth riseth betweene Chappell and Bentleie and going betwéene Tatingston and Whetsted Holbrooke and Sutton it falleth at length into Stoure and from thence is neuer heard of As for Ocleie Drill that riseth betweene Ocleie and Wikes parkes and so goeth into the Stoure on Essex side west of Harwich and east of Ree I le I passe it ouer because it is of it selfe but a rill and not of anie greatnesse till it come to the mill aboue Ramseie bridge where I was once almost drowned by reason of the ruinous bridge which leadeth ouer the streame being there verie great as an arme of the sea that continuallie ebbeth floweth Next vnto this we came to another that runneth south of Beaumont by Mosse and falleth into the sea about the middest of the Baie betwixt Harwich and the Naze Betwixt the Naze also and the mouth of Colne is another rill which riseth at little Bentleie and thence goeth to Tendring thorpe through Clacton parke by great Holland and east of little Holland into the déepe sea The Colne hath three heads whereof one is at Ouington that goeth by Tilberie and east of Yeldam falleth into the chiefe head which riseth about Redgewell in Essex from whence also it goeth to Yeldam and Hedingham otherwise called Yngham also Hedningham or Heuedingham or Heuedingham of the superâ—oritie which accrued therevnto because the chiefe lords of the same from time to time kept residence in the towne For Heued or Hed signifieth The chiefe in the old English language which in the name of this and manie other townes and villages yet standing in England cannot esilie be forgotten The third falleth in south of Yeldam and being once met all in one chanell and called the Colne it goeth as I said to Hedningham Hawsted Erles Colne Wakes Colne Fordon Bardfold Colchester in old time Camalodunum and so into the sea at Brickleseie Some thinke that Colchester and Camalodunum are sundrie cities and situat in diuerse places whereby Maldon or Ithancester out of whose ruines the said towne of Maldon was erected should rather be Camalodunum than Colchester but hereof I cannot iudge Indeed if as Leland saith Maldon should be written Malodunum it were a likelihood that there assertions should be probable Some reason also may be gathered for the same out of Dion and such as make the Thames mouth to take his beginning at Colchester water But I dare not presume to conclude any thing hereof least I should séeme rashlie to take hold of euerie coniecture This I relie vpon rather as a more certeintie that in the first edition of this treatise I was persuaded that the sea entring by the Colne made thrée seuerall passages froÌ„ thence into the land but now I vnderstand that these are seuerall entrances and streames of which the Colne is one another is the Salcote water which commeth in beneath the Stroud a causeie that leadeth vnto Merseie I le ouer which the sea méeteth with a contrarie course and the third the faire arme that floweth vnto Maldon and all these thrée haue their falles either ouer against or néere vnto the aforesaid I le which at a low water is not halfe a mile from the shore Into the Colne or Colunus also whereof Leland thinketh Colchester to take his name and not A colonia Romanorum although I may not consent to him herein doo run manie salt creekes beneath Fingering ho of whose names sith I doo not know nor whether they be serued with anie backewaters or not I giue ouer to intreat anie further likewise of their positions Into that of Maldon runneth manie faire waters whereof I will saie so much as I know to be true in maner by experience There is a pretie water that beginneth néere vnto Gwinbach or Winbeche church in Essex a towne of old and yet belonging to the Fitzwaters taking name of Gwin which is beautifull or faire Baâ—he that signifieth a wood and not without cause
sith not onelie the hilles on ech side of the said rillet but all the whole paroch hath sometime abounded in woods but now in manner they are vtterlie decaied as the like commoditie is euerie where not onelie thorough excessiue building for pleasure more than profit which is contrarie to the ancient end of building but also for more increase of pasture commoditie to the lords of the soile through their sales of that emolument whereby the poore tenants are inforced to buie their fewell and yet haue their rents in triple maner inhanced This said brooke runneth directlie from thence vnto Radwinter now a parcell of your lordships possessions in those parts descended from the Chamberleins who were sometime chéefe owners of the same By the waie also it is increased with sundrie pretie springs of which Pantwell is the chéefe whereof some thinke the whole brooke to be named Pant and which to saie the truth hath manie a leasing fathered on the same Certes by the report of common fame it hath béene a pretie water and of such quantitie that botes haue come in time past from Bilie abbeie beside Maldon vnto the moores in Radwinter for corne I haue heard also that an anchor was found there neere to a red willow when the water-courses by act of parlement wers surueied and reformed throughout England which maketh not a little with the aforesaid relation But this is strangest of all that a lord sometime of Winbech surnamed the great eater because he would breake his fast with a whole calfe and find no bones therein as the fable goeth falling at contention with the lord Iohn of Radwinter could worke him none other iniurie but by stopping vp the head of Pantwell to put by the vse of a mill which stood by the church of Radwinter and was serued by that brooke abundantlie Certes I know the place where the mill stood and some posts thereof do yet remaine But sée the malice of mankind whereby one becommeth a woolfe vnto the other in their mischeeuous moodes For when the lord saw his mill to be so spoiled he in reuenge of his losse brake the necke of his aduersarie when he was going to horsebacke as the constant report affirmeth For the lord of Radwinter holding a parcell of his manour of Radwinter hall of the Fitzwaters his sonne was to hold his stirrop at certeine times when he should demand the same Shewing himselfe therefore prest on a time to doo his said seruice as the Fitzwater was readie to lift his leg ouer the saddle he by putting backe his foot gaue him such a thrust that he fell backward and brake his necke wherevpon insued great trouble till the matter was taken vp by publike authoritie and that seruile office conuerted into a pound of pepper which is truelie paid to this daie But to leaue these impertinent discourses and returne againe to the springs whereby our Pant or Gwin is increased There is likewise another in a pasture belonging to the Grange now in possession of William Bird esquier who holdeth the same in the right of his wife but in time past belonging to Tilteie abbeie The third commeth out of the yard of one of your lordships manors there called Radwinter hall The fourth from Iohn Cockswets house named the Rotherwell which running vnder Rothers bridge méeteth with the Gwin or Pant on the northwest end of Ferrants meade southeast of Radwinter church whereof I haue the charge by your honours fauourable preferment I might take occasion to speake of another rill which falleth into the Rother from Bendish hall but bicause it is for the most part drie in summer I passe it ouer Yet I will not omit to speake also of the manor which was the chiefe lordship sometime of a parish or hamlet called Bendishes now worne out of knowledge and vnited partlie to Radwinter and partlie to Ashdon It belonged first to the Bendishes gentlemen of a verie ancient house yet extant of which one laieng the said manour to morgags to the moonks of Feuersham at such time as K. Edward the third went to the siege of Calis thereby to furnish himselfe the better toward the seruice of his prince it came to passe that he staied longer beyond the sea than he supposed Wherevpon he came before his daie to confer with his creditors who commending his care to come out of debt willed him in friendlie maner not to suspect anie hard dealing on their behalfes considering his businesse in seruice of the king was of it selfe cause sufficient to excuse his delaie of paiment vpon the daie assigned Herevpon he went ouer againe vnto the siege of Calis But when the day came the moonks for all this made seisure of the manour and held it continuallie without anie further recompense maugre all the friendship that the aforsaid Bendish could make The said gentleman also tooke this cousening part in such choler that he wrote a note yet to be séene among his euidences whereby he admonisheth his posteritie to beware how they trust either knaue moonke or knaue frier as one of the name and bescended from him by lineall descent hath more than once informed me Now to resume our springs that méet and ioine with our Pant. The next is named Froshwell And of this spring dooth the whole hundred beare the name after this confluencâ— the riuer it selfe wher vnto it falleth from by north so farre as I remember Certes all thâ—se sauing the first and second are within your lordships towne aforesaid The streame therfore running from hence now as I said called Froshwell of Frosh which signifieth a frog hasteth immediatlie vnto old Sandford then through new Sandford parke and afterward with full streame receiuing by the waie the Finch brooke that commeth thorough Finchingfield to Shalford Borking Stisted Paswijc and so to Blackewater where the name of Freshwell ceaseth the water being from hencefoorth as I heare commonlie called Blackwater vntill it come to Maldon where it falleth into the salt arme of the sea that beateth vpon the towne and which of some except I be deceiued is called also Pant and so much the rather I make this coniecture for that Ithancester stood somewhere vpon the banks thereof in the hundred of Danseie whose ruines as they saie also are swalowed vp by the said streame which can not be verified in our riuer that runneth from Pantwell which at the mouth and fall into the great current excéedeth not to my coniecture aboue one hundred foot But to returne to our Pant alià s the Gwin From Blackwater it goeth to Corall Easterford Braxsted and Wickham where it méeteth with the Barus and so going togither as one they descend to Heiebridge and finallie into the salt water aboue Maldon and at hand as is aforesaid As for the Barus it riseth in a statelie parke of Essex called Bardfield belonging to sir Thomas Wroth whilest he liued who hath it to him and his heires males for euer from
writers supposed Scithians passed by seas from Ireland and arriued in that part of Britaine called Albania against whome this Coell assembled his power and being entred Albania to expell them one Fergus in the night disguised entered the tent of this Coell and in his bed traitorouslie slue him This Fergus was therfore in reward of his great prowesse made there king whervpon they sat downe in that part with their wiues and children and called it Scotland and themselues Scots from the begining of the world foure thousand six hundred and seauentéene yeares after the Scotish accompt which by iust computation and confession of all their owne writers is six hundred yeares lacking ten after that Brutus had reigned ouer the whole Iland the same land being inioied by him and his posteritie before their comming during two and fiftie descents of the kings of Britaine which is a large prescription Certes this intrusion into a land so manie hundred yeares before inhabited and by so manie descents of kings quietlie inioied is the best title that all their owne writers can alledge for them But to proceed Fergus herevpon immediatlie did diuide Albania also among his capteins and their souldiers whereby it most euidentlie appeareth that there were no people of that nation inhabiting there before in proofe whereof the same partition shall follow The lands of Cathnes lieng against Orkneie betwéene Dummesbeie and the water of Thane was giuen vnto one Cornath a capteine and his people The lands betwéene the water of Thane Nes now called Rosse being in bredth from Cromart to the mouth of the water of Locht were giuen to Lutorke another capteine and his people The lands betwéene Spaie and Nes from the Almane seas to the Ireland seas now called Murraie land were giuen to one Warroch and his people The land of Thalia now called Boin Ainze Bogewall Gariot Formartine and Bowguhan were giuen to one Thalis and his people The lands of Mar Badezenoch and Lochquhaber were giuen to Martach and his people The lands of Lorne and Kintier with the hilles and mounteins thereof lieng from Mar to the Ireland seas were giuen to capteine Nanance and his people The lands of Athole were giuen to Atholus another capteine and his people The lands of Strabraun Brawdawane lieng west from Dunkell were giuen to Creones Epidithes two capteins The lands of Argile were giuen to Argathelus a capteine The lands of Linnox Clidisdale were allotted to Lolgona a capteine The lands of Siluria now called Kile Carrike Cuningham were giuen to Silurth another capteine The lands of Brigance now called Gallowaie were giuen to the companie called Brigandes which as their best men were appointed to dwell next the Britons who afterward expelled the Britons from Annandale in Albanie whereby it is confessed to be before inhabited by Britons The residue of the land now called Scotland that is to saie Meirnis Angus Steremond Gowrie Strahern Pirth Fiffe Striueling Callender Calderwood Lougthian Mers Teuedale with other the Rement Dales the Sherifdome of Berwicke were then enioied by a nation mingled in marriage with the Britons and in their obedience whose capteine called Beringer builded the castell and towne of Berwicke vpon Twede these people were called Picts vpon whome by the death of this Coell these Scots had oportunitie to vse wars whereof they ceased not vntill such time as it pleased God to appoint another Coell king of Britons against whose name albeit they hoped for a like victorie to the first yet he preuailed and ceased not his warre vntill these Scots were vtterlie expelled out of all the bounds of Britaine in which they neuer dared to reenter vntill the troublesome reigne of Sisilt king of Britons which was the twelft king after this Coell During all which time the countrie was reinhabited by the Britons But then the Scots turning the ciuill discord of this realme betweene this Sisilt and his brother Blede to their best aduantage arriued againe in Albania there made one Reuther their king Upon this their new arriuall new warre was made vpon them by this Sisilt king of Britons in which warre Reuther their new king died and Thereus succéeded against whome the warre of Britons ceased not vntill he freelie submitted himselfe to the said Sicill king of Britons at Ebranke that is Yorke where shortlie after the tenth yeare of his reigne he died Finnane brother of Iosine succeeded by their election to the kingdome of Scots who shortlie after compelled by the warres of the same Sicill declared himselfe subiect and for the better assurance of his faith and obeisance to the king of Britons deliuered his sonne Durstus into the hands of this Sicill who fantasieng the child and hoping by his owne succession to alter their subtiltie I will not saie duplicitie saith Adams married him in the end to Agasia his owne daughter This Durstus was their next king but for that he had married a Briton woman though indeed she was a kings daughter the Scots hated him for the same cause for which they ought rather to haue liked him the better and therefore not onelie traitorouslie slue him but further to declare the end of their malice dishinherited as much as in them was the issues of the same Durstus and Agasia Herevpon new warre sproong betwéene them and vs which ceased not vntill they were contented to receiue Edeir to their king the next in bloud then liuing descended from Durstus and Agasia and thereby the bloud of the Britons of the part of the mother was restored to the crowne of Albania so that nature whose law is immutable caused this bond of loue to hold For shortlie after this Edeir attended vpon Cassibelane king of Britons for the repulse of Iulius Caesar as their owne author Boetius confesseth who commanded the same as his subiect But Iulius Caesar after his second arriuall by treason of Androgeus preuailed against the Britons and therevpon pursued this Edeir into Scotland and as himselfe saith in his commentaries subdued all the I le of Britaine Which though the liuing Scots denie it their dead writers confesse that he came beyond Calender wood and cast downe Camelon the principall citie of the Picts And in token of this victorie not farre from Carron builded a round temple of stone which remained in some perfection vntill the reigne of our king Edward called the first after the conquest by whome it was subuerted but the monument thereof remaineth to this daie Marius the sonne of Aruiragus being king of all Britaine in his time one Roderike a Scithian with a great rabble of néedie souldiours came to the water of Frith in Scotland which is an arme of the sea diuiding Pentland from Fiffe against whome Marius assembled a power by which he slue this Rodericke and discomfited his people in Westmerland but to those that remained aliue he gaue the countrie of Cathnesse in Scotland which prooueth it be within his owne
obeisance to this Cadwallo during eight and twentie yeares Thus Cadwallo reigned in the whole monarchie of great Britaine hauing all the seuen kings thereof as well Saxons as others his subiects for albeit the number of Saxons from time to time greatlie increased yet were they alwaies either at the first expelled or else made tributarie to the onelie kings of Britons for the time being as all their owne writers doo confesse Cadwallader was next king of the whole great Britaine he reigned twelue yeares ouer all the kings thereof in great peace and tranquillitie and then vpon the lamentable death of his subiects which died of sundrie diseases innumerablie he departed into little Britaine His sonne and cousine Iuor and Iue being expelled out of England also by the Saxons went into Wales where among the Britons they and their posteritie remained princes Upon this great alteration and warres being through the whole dominion betwéene the Britons and Saxons the Scots thought time to slip the collar of obedience and therevpon entred in league with Charles then king of France establishing it in this wise 1 The iniurie of Englishmen doone to anie of these people shall be perpetuallie holden common to them both 2 When Frenchmen be inuaded by Englishmen the Scots shall send their armie in defense of France so that they be supported with monie and vittels by the French 3 When Scots be inuaded by Englishmen the Frenchmen shall come vpon their owne expenses to their support and succour 4 None of the people shall take peace or truce with Englishmen without the aduise of other c. Manie disputable opinions may be had of warre without the praising of it as onlie admittable by inforced necessitie and to be vsed for peace sake onelie where here the Scots sought warre for the loue of warre onelie For their league giueth no benefit to themselues either in frée traffike of their owne commodities or benefit of the French or other priuilege to the people of both What discommoditie riseth by loosing the intercourse and exchange of our commodities being in necessaries more aboundant than France the Scots féele and we perfectlie know What ruine of their townes destruction of countries slaughter of both peoples haue by reason of this bloudie league chanced the histories be lamentable to read and horrible among christian men to be remembred but God gaue the increase according to their séed for as they did hereby sowe dissention so did they shortlie after reape a bloudie slaughter and confusion For Alpine their king possessing a light mind that would be lost with a little wind hoped by this league shortlie to subdue all great Britaine and to that end not onelie rebelled in his owne kingdome but also vsurped vpon the kingdome of Picts Whervpon Edwine king of England made one Brudeus king of Picts whom he sent into Scotland with a great power where in battell he tooke this Alpine king of Scots prisoner and discomfited his people And this Alpine being their king found subiect and rebell his head was striken off at a place in Scotland which thereof is to this daie called Pasalpine that is to saie the head of Alpine And this was the first effect of their French league Osbright king of England with Ella his subiect and a great number of Britons and Saxons shortlie after for that the Scots had of themselues elected a new king entered Scotland and ceassed not his war against them vntill their king and people fled into the Iles with whome at the last vpon their submission peace was made in this wise The water of Frith shall be march betwéene Scots and Englishmen in the east parts and shall be named the Scotish sea The water of Cluide to Dunbriton shall be march in the west parts betwéene the Scots and Britons This castell was before called Alcluide but now Dunbriton that is to say the castle of Britons and sometimes it was destroied by the Danes So the Britons had all the lands from Sterling to the Ireland seas and from the water of Frith Cluide to Cumber with all the strengths and commodities thereof and the Englishmen had the lands betwéene Sterling and Northumberland Thus was Cluide march betwéene the Scots and the Britons on the one side and the water of Frith named the Scotish sea march betwéene them and Englishmen on the other side and Sterling common march to thrée people Britons Englishmen and Scots howbeit king Osbright had the castle of Sterling where first he caused to be coined Sterling monie The Englishmen also builded a bridge of stone for passage ouer the water of Frith in the middest whereof they made a crosse vnder which were written these verses I am free march as passengers may ken To Scots to Britons and Englishmen Not manie yeares after this Hinguar and Hubba two Danes with a great number of people arriued in Scotland and slue Constantine whom Osbright had before made king wherevpon Edulfe or Ethelwulfe then king of England assembled his power against Hinguar and Hubba and in one battell slue them both but such of their people as would remaine and become christians he suffered to tarie the rest he banished or put to death c. This Ethelwulfe granted the Peter pence of which albeit Peter Paule had little need and lesse right yet the paiment thereof continued in this realme euer after vntill now of late yeares But the Scots euer since vnto this daie haue and yet doo paie it by reason of that grant which prooueth them to be then vnder his obeisance Alured or Alfred succéeded in the kingdome of England and reigned noblie ouer the whole monarchie of great Britaine he made lawes that persons excommunicated should be disabled to sue or claime anie propertie which law Gregour whome this Alured had made king of Scots obeied and the same law as well in Scotland as in England is holden to this daie which also prooueth him to be high lord of Scotland This Alured constreined Gregour king of Scots also to breake the league with France for generallie he concluded with him and serued him in all his warres as well against Danes as others not reseruing or making anie exception of the former league with France The said Alured after the death of Gregour had the like seruice and obeisance of Donald king of Scots with fiue thousand horssemen against one Gurmond a Dane that then infested the realme and this Donald died in this faith and obeisance with Alured Edward the first of that name called Chifod sonne of this Alured succéeded his father and was the next king of England against whome Sithrtic a Dane and the Scots conspired but they were subdued and Constantine their king brought to obeisance He held the realme of Scotland also of king Edward and this dooth Marian their owne countrieman a Scot confesse beside Roger Houeden and William of Malmesberie In the yeare of our Lord 923 the same king Edward was president and gouernour of
lin in Wales which in the one side beareth trowts so red as samons and in the other which is the westerlie side verie white and delicate I heare also of two welles not far from Landien which stand verie néere togither and yet are of such diuersitie of nature that the one beareth sope and is a maruellous fine water the other altogither of contrarie qualities Which is not a litle to be mused at considering I saie that they participate of one soile and rise so nigh one to another I haue notice giuen me moreouer of a stone not farre from saint Dauids which is verie great as a bed or such like thing and being raised vp a man may stirre it with his thumbe but not with his shoulder or force of his whole bodie There is a well not farre from stonie Stratford which conuerteth manie things into stone and an other in Wales which is said to double or triple the force of anie edge toole that is quenched in the same In Tegenia a parcell of Wales there is a noble well I meane in the parish of Kilken which is of maruellous nature and much like to another well at Seuill in Spaine for although it be six miles from the sea it ebbeth and floweth twise in one daie alwaies ebbing when the sea dooth vse to flow and in flowing likewise when the sea dooth vse to ebbe wherof some doo fable that this well is ladie and mistresse of the ocean Not farre from thence also is a medicinable spring called Schinant of old time but now Wenefrides well in the edges whereof dooth breed a verie odoriferous and delectable mosse wherewith the head of the smeller is maruellouslie refreshed Other welles and water-courses we haue likewise which at some times burst out into huge streames though at other seasons they run but verie softlie whereby the people gather some alteration of estate to be at hand And such a one there is at Henleie an other at Croidon such a one also in the golden dale beside Anderne in Picardie whereof the common sort imagine manie things Some of the greater sort also giue ouer to run at all in such times wherof they conceiue the like opinion And of the same nature though of no great quantitie is a pit or well at Langleie parke in Kent whereof by good hap it was my lucke to read a notable historie in an ancient chronicle that I saw of late What the foolish people dreame of the hell Kettles it is not worthie the rehearsall yet to the end the lewd opinion conceiued of them may grow into contempt I will saie thus much also of those pits There are certeine pits or rather three little pooles a mile from Darlington and a quarter of a mile distant from the These banks which the people call the Kettles of hell or the diuels Kettles as if he should séeth soules of sinfull men and women in them They adde also that the spirits haue oft beene heard to crie and yell about them with other like talke sauoring altogether of pagan infidelitie The truth is and of this opinion also was Cutbert Tunstall late bishop of Durham a man notwithstanding the basenesse of his birth being begotten by one Tunstall vpon a daughter of the house of the Commers as Leland saith of great learning and iudgement that the cole-mines in those places are kindled or if there be no coles there may a mine of some other vnctuous matter be set on fire which being here and there consumed the earth falleth in and so dooth leaue a pit Indéed the water is now and then warme as they saie and beside that it is not cléere the people suppose them to be an hundred fadam déepe The biggest of them also hath an issue into the These as experience hath confirmed For doctor Bellowes aliàs Belzis made report how a ducke marked after the fashion of the duckes of the bishoprike of Durham was put into the same betwixt Darlington and These banke and afterward séene at a bridge not farre from master Clereuar house If it were woorth the noting I would also make relation of manie wooden crosses found verie often about Halidon whereof the old inhabitants conceiued an opinion that they were fallen from heauen whereas in truth they were made and borne by king Oswald and his men in the battell wherein they preuailed sometimes against the British infidels vpon a superstitious imagination that those crosses should be their defense and shield against their aduersaries Beda calleth the place where the said field was fought Heauen field it lieth not far from the Pictish wall and the famous monasterie of Hagolstad But more of this elsewhere Neither will I speake of the little hillets séene in manie places of our Ile whereof though the vnskilfull people babble manie things yet are they nothing else but Tumuli or graues of former times as appeareth by such tooms carcasses as be daily found in the same when they be digged downe The like fond imagination haue they of a kind of lunarie which is to be found in manie places although not so well knowen by the forme vnto them as by the effect thereof because it now and then openeth the lockes hanging on the horses féet as hit vpon it where it groweth in their féeding Roger Bacon our countrieman noteth it to grow plentiouslie in Tuthill fields about London I haue heard of it to be within compasse of the parish where I dwell and doo take it for none other than the Sfera Cauallo whereof Mathiolus and the herbarists doo write albeit that it hath not béene my lucke at anie time to behold it Plinie calleth it Aethiopis and Aelianus Oppianus Kyramis and Trebius haue written manie superstitious things thereof but especiallie our Chymists who make it of farre more vertue than our smiths doo their ferne séed whereof they babble manie woonders and prate of such effects as may well be performed indéed when the ferne beareth séed which is commonly Ad calendas Graecas for before it will not be found But to procéed There is a well in Darbieshire called Tideswell so named of the word tide or to ebbe and flow whose water often séemeth to rise and fall as the sea which is fortie miles from it dooth vsuallie accustome to ebbe and flow And hereof an opinion is growen that it keepeth an ordinarie course as the sea dooth Howbeit sith diuerse are knowne to haue watched the same it may be that at sometimes it riseth but not continuallie and that it so dooth I am fullie persuaded to beléeue But euen inough of the woonders of our countrie least I doo séeme by talking longer of them woonderouslie to ouershoot my selfe and forget how much dooth rest behind of the description of my countrie As for those that are to be touched of Scotland the description of that part shall in some part remember them The Contents of the second Booke 1 Of the ancient and present estate of the church
is the most excellent yet the water that standeth in either of these is the best for vs that dwell in the countrie as whereon the sunne lieth longest and fattest fish is bred But of all other the â—ennie and morish is the worst and the cléerest spring water next vnto it In this busines therfore the skilfull workeman dooth redeeme the iniquitie of that element by changing of his proportions which trouble in ale sometime our onelie but now taken with manie for old and sickmens drinke is neuer séene nor heard of Howbeit as the beere well sodden in the bruing and stale is cleere and well coloured as muscadell or malueseie or rather yellow as the gold noble as our potknights call it so our ale which is not at all or verie little sodden and without hops is more thicke fulsome and of no such continuance which are thrée notable things to be considered in that liquor But what for that Certes I know some aleknights so much addicted therevnto that they will not ceasse from morow vntill euen to visit the same clensing house after house till they defile themselues and either fall quite vnder the boord or else not daring to stirre from their stooles sit still pinking with their narrow eies as halfe sleeping till the fume of their aduersarie be digested that he may go to it afresh Such slights also haue the alewiues for the vtterance of this drinke that they will mixe it with rosen and salt but if you heat a knife red hot and quench it in the ale so neere the bottome of the pot as you can put it you shall sée the rosen come foorth hanging on the knife As for the force of salt it is well knowne by the effect for the more the drinker tipleth the more he may and so dooth he carrie off a drie dronken noll to bed with him except his lucke be the better But to my purpose In some places of England there is a kind of drinke made of apples which they call cider or pomage but that of peares is named pirrie and both are groond and pressed in presses made for the nonce Certes these two are verie common in Sussex Kent Worcester and other stéeds where these sorts of fruits doo abound howbeit they are not their onelie drinke at all times but referred vnto the delicate sorts of drinke as metheglin is in Wales whereof the Welshmen make no lesse accompt and not without cause if it be well handled than the Gréekes did of their Ambrosia or Nectar which for the pleasantnesse thereof was supposed to be such as the gods themselues did delite in There is a kind of swish swash mad also in Essex and diuerse other places with honicombs and water which the homelie countrie wiues putting some pepper and a little other spice among call mead verie good in mine opinion for such as loue to be loose bodied at large or a little eased of the cough otherwise it differeth so much froÌ„ the true metheglin as chalke from cheese Trulie it is nothing else but the washing of the combes when the honie is wroong out and one of the best things that I know belonging thereto is that they spend but litle labour and lesse cost in making of the same and therefore no great losse if it were neuer occupied Hitherto of the diet of my countrimen somewhat more at large peraduenture than manie men will like of wherefore I thinke good now to finish this tractation and so will I when I haue added a few other things incident vnto that which goeth before wherby the whole processe of the same shall fullie be deliuered my promise to my fréend in this behalfe performed Heretofore there hath béene much more time spent in eating and drinking than commonlie is in these daies for whereas of old we had breakefasts in the forenoone beuerages or nuntions after dinner and thereto reare suppers generallie when it was time to go to rest a toie brought into England by hardie Canutus and a custome whereof Athenaeus also speaketh lib. 1 albeit Hippocrates speake but of twise at the most lib. 2. De rat vict in feb ac Now these od repasts thanked be God are verie well left and ech one in maner except here and there some yoong hungrie stomath that cannot fast till dinner time contenteth himselfe with dinner supper onelie The Normans misliking the gormandise of Canutus ordeined after their â—rriuall that no table should be couered aboue once in the daie which Huntingdon imputeth to their auarice but in the end either waxing wearie of their owne frugalitie or suffering the cockle of old custome to ouergrow the good corne of their new constitution they fell to such libertie that in often féeding they surmounted Canutus surnamed the hardie For whereas he couered his table but thrée or foure times in the daie these spred their clothes fiue or six times and in such wise as I before rehearsed They brought in also the custome of long and statelie sitting at meat whereby their feasts resembled those ancient pontificall bankets whereof Macrobius speaketh lib. 3. cap. 13. and Plin. lib. 10. cap. 10. and which for sumptuousnesse of fare long sitting and curiositie shewed in the same excéeded all other mens feasting which fondnesse is not yet left with vs notwithstanding that it proueth verie beneficiall for the physicians who most abound where most excesse and misgouernement of our bodies doo appéere although it be a great expense of time and worthie of reprehension For the nobilitie gentlemen and merchantmen especiallie at great méetings doo sit commonlie till two or three of the clocke at afternoone so that with manie is an hard matter to rise from the table to go to euening praier and returne from thence to come time inough to supper For my part I am persuaded that the purpose of the Normans at the first was to reduce the ancient Roman order or Danish custome in féeding once in the daie and toward the euening as I haue red and noted And indéed the Romans had such a custome and likewise the Grecians as may appeere by the words of Socrates who said vnto the Atheniens Oriente sole consilium occidente conuiuium est cogitandum although a little something was allowed in the morning to yoong children which we now call a breakefast Plato called the Siciliens monsters for that they vsed to eat twise in the daie Among the Persians onelie the king dined when the sunne was at the highest and shadow of the stile at the shortest the rest as it is reported went alwaies but once to meat when their stomachs craued it as the Canariens and Indians doo in my time who if appetite serue refuse not to go to meat at anie houre of the night and likewise the ancient Caspians Yet Arhianus noteth it as a rare thing li. 4. cap. 16. that the Tyrhenians had taken vp an ill custome to féed twise in a daie
that gaue authoritie to the cleargie to punish whoredome who at that time found fault with the former lawes as being too seuere in this behalfe For before the time of the said Canutus the adulterer forfeited all his goods to the king and his bodie to be at his pleasure and the adulteresse was to lose hir eies or nose or both if the case were more than common whereby it appéereth of what estimation mariage was amongst them sith the breakers of that holie estate were so gréeuouslie rewarded But afterward the cleargie dealt more fauourablie with them shooting rather at the punishments of such priests and clearkes as were maried than the reformation of adulterie and fornication wherein you shall find no example that anie seueritie was shewed except vpon such laie men as had defiled their nuns As in theft therfore so in adulterie and whoredome I would wish the parties trespassant to be made bond or slaues vnto those that receiued the iniurie to sell and giue where they listed or to be condemned to the gallies for that punishment would proue more bitter to them than halfe an houres hanging or than standing in a shéet though the weather be neuer so cold Manslaughter in time past was punished by the pursse wherin the quantitie or qualitie of the punishment was rated after the state and calling of the partie killed so that one was valued sometime at 1200 another at 600 or 200 shillings And by an estatute made vnder Henrie the first a citizen of London at 100 whereof else-where I haue spoken more at large Such as kill themselues are buried in the field with a stake driuen through their bodies Witches are hanged or sometimes burned but théeues are hanged as I said before generallie on the gibbet or gallowes sauing in Halifax where they are beheaded after a strange maner and whereof I find this report There is and hath beene of ancient time a law or rather a custome at Halifax that who soeuer dooth commit anie fellonie and is taken with the same or confesse the fact vpon examination if it be valued by foure constables to amount to the sum of thirtéene pence halfe penie he is foorthwith beheaded vpon one of the next market daies which fall vsuallie vpon the tuesdaies thursdaies saturdaies or else vpon the same daie that he is so conuicted if market be then holden The engine wherewith the execution is doone is a square blocke of wood of the length of foure foot and an halfe which dooth ride vp and downe in a slot rabet or regall betwéene two péeces of timber that are framed and set vpright of fiue yardes in height In the neather end of the sliding blocke is an ax keied or fastened with an iron into the wood which being drawne vp to the top of the frame is there fastned by a woodden pin with a notch made into the same after the maner of a Samsons post vnto the middest of which pin also there is a long rope fastened that commeth downe among the people so that when the offendor hath made his confession and hath laid his necke ouer the neathermost blocke euerie man there present dooth either take hold of the rope or putteth foorth his arme so neere to the same as he can get in token that he is willing to sée true iustice executed and pulling out the pin in this maner the head blocke wherein the ax is fastened dooth fall downe with such a violence that if the necke of the transgressor were so big as that of a bull it should be cut in sunder at a stroke and roll from the bodie by an huge distance If it be so that the offendor be apprehended for an ox oxen shéepe kine horsse or anie such cattell the selfe beast or other of the same kind shall haue the end of the rope tied somewhere vnto them so that they being driuen doo draw out the pin wherby the offendor is executed Thus much of Halifax law which I set downe onelie to shew the custome of that countrie in this behalfe Roges and vagabonds are often stocked and whipped scolds are ducked vpon cuckingstooles in the water Such fellons as stand mute and speake not at their arraignement are pressed to death by huge weights laid vpon a boord that lieth ouer their brest and a sharpe stone vnder their backs and these commonlie hold their peace thereby to saue their goods vnto their wiues and children which if they were condemned should be confiscated to the prince Théeues that are saued by their bookes and cleargie for the first offense if they haue stollen nothing else but oxen sheepe monie or such like which be no open robberies as by the high waie side or assailing of anie mans house in the night without putting him in feare of his life or breaking vp of his wals or doores are burned in the left hand vpon the brawne of the thombe with an hot iron so that if they be apprehended againe that marke bewraieth them to haue beene arraigned of fellonie before whereby they are sure at that time to haue no mercie I doo not read that this custome of sauing by the booke is vsed anie where else than in England neither doo I find after much diligent inquirie what Saxon prince ordeined that lawe Howbeit this I generallie gather thereof that it was deuised to traine the inhabiters of this land to the loue of learning which before contemned letters and all good knowledge as men onelie giuing themselues to husbandrie and the warres the like whereof I read to haue beene amongst the Gothes and Uandals who for a time would not suffer euen their princes to be lerned for weakening of their courages nor anie learned men to remaine in the counsell house but by open proclamation would command them to auoid whensoeuer anie thing touching the state of the land was to be consulted vpon Pirats and robbers by sea are condemned in the court of the admeraltie and hanged on the shore at lowe water marke where they are left till three tides haue ouer washed them Finallie such as hauing wals and banks néere vnto the sea and doo suffer the same to decaie after conuenient admonition whereby the water entereth and drowneth vp the countrie are by a certeine ancient custome apprehended condemned and staked in the breach where they remaine for euer as parcell of the foundation of the new wall that is to be made vpon them as I haue heard reported And thus much in part of the administration of instice vsed in our countrie wherein notwithstanding that we doo not often heare of horrible merciles and wilfull murthers such I meane asiare not sildome séene in the countries of the maine yet now and then some manslaughter and bloudie robberies are perpetrated and committed contrarie to the lawes which be seuerelie punished and in such wise as I before reported Certes there is no greater mischéefe doone in England than by robberies the first by yoong shifting
so is it inwardlie diuided into sundrie roomes aboue and beneath and where plentie of wood is they couer them with tiles otherwise with straw sedge or réed except some quarrie of sâ—ate be néere hand from whence they haue for their monie so much as may suffice them The claie wherewith our houses are impanelled is either white red or blue and of these the first dooth participat verie much with the nature of our chalke the second is called lome but the third eftsoones changeth colour so soone as it is wrought notwithstanding that it looke blue when it is throwne out of the pit Of chalke also we haue our excellent Asbestos or white lime made in most places wherewith being quenched we strike ouer our claie workes and stone wals in cities good townes rich farmers and gentlemens houses otherwise in steed of chalke where it wanteth for it is so scant that in some places it is sold by the pound they are compelled to burne a certeine kind of red stone as in Wales and else where other stones and shels of oisters and like fish found vpon the sea coast which being conuerted into lime doth naturallie as the other abhorre and eschew water whereby it is dissolued and neuerthelesse desire oile wherewith it is easilie mixed as I haue seene by experience Within their doores also such as are of â—bilitâ— doo oft make their floores and parget of fine alabaster burned which they call plaster of Paris whereof in some places we haue great plentie and that verie profitable against the rage of fire In plastering likewise of our fairest houses ouer our heads we vse to laie first a laine or two of white morter tempered with haire vpon laths which are nailed one by another or sometimes vpon reed or wickers more dangerous for fire and made fast here and there with saplaths for falling downe and finallie couer all with the aforesaid plaster which beside the delectable whitenesse of the stuffe it selfe is laied on so euen and smoothlie as nothing in my iudgment can be doone with more exactnesse The wals of our houses on the inner sides in like sort be either hanged with tapisterie arras worke or painted cloths wherin either diuerse histories or hearbes beasts knots and such like are stained or else they are seeled with oke of our owne or wainescot brought hither out of the east countries whereby the roomes are not a little commended made warme and much more close than otherwise they would be As for stooues we haue not hitherto vsed them greatlie yet doo they now begin to be made in diuerse houses of the gentrie and wealthie citizens who build them not to worke and feed in as in Germanie and else where but now and then to sweat in as occasion and néed shall require it This also hath béene common in England contrarie to the customes of all other nations and yet to be séene for example in most stréets of London that many of our greatest houses haue outwardlie béene verie simple and plaine to sight which inwardlie haue beene able to receiue a duke with his whole traine and lodge them at their ease Hereby moreouer it is come to passe that the fronts of our stréets haue not béene so vniforme and orderlie builded as those of forreiâ—e cities where to saie truth the vtterside of their mansions and dwellings haue oft more cost bestowed vpon them than all the rest of the house which are often verie simple and vneasie within as experience dooth confirme Of old time our countrie houses in steed of glasse did vse much lattise and that made either of wicker or fine rifts of oke in chekerwise I read also that some of the better sort in and before the times of the Saxons who notwithstanding vsed some glasse also since the time of Benedict Biscop the moonke that brought the feat of glasing first into this land did make panels of horne in stéed of glasse fix them in woodden calmes But as horne in windows is now quite laid downe in euerie place so our lattises are also growne into lesse vse bicause glasse is come to be so plentifull and within a verie little so good cheape if not better then the other I find obscure mention of the specular stone also to haue béene found and applied to this vse in England but in such doubtfull sort as I dare not affirme it for certeine Neuerthelesse certeine it is that antiquitie vsed it before glasse was knowen vnder the name of Selenites And how glasse was first found I care not greatlie to remember euen at this present although it be directlie beside my purposed matter In Syria phenices which bordereth vpon Iurie néere to the foot of mount Carmell there is a moore or marris wherout riseth a brooke called somtime Belus and falleth into the sea néere to Ptolemais This riuer was fondlie ascribed vnto Baall and also honored vnder that name by the infidels long time before there was anie king in Israell It came to passe also as a certeine merchant sailed that waie loden with Nitrum the passengers went to land for to repose themselues and to take in some store of fresh water into their vessell Being also on the shore they kindled a fire and made prouision for their dinner but bicause they wanted treuets or slones whereon to set their kettels on ran by chance into the ship and brought great péeces of Nitrum with him which serued their turne for that present To be short the said substance being hot and beginning to melt it mixed by chance with the grauell that laie vnder it and so brought foorth that shining substance which now is called glasse and about the time of Semiramis When the companie saw this they made no small accompt of their successe and foorthwith began to practise the like in other mixtures whereby great varietie of the said stuffe did also insue Certes for the time this historie may well be true for I read of glasse in Iob but for the rest I refer me to the common opinion conceiued by writers Now to turne againe to our windowes Heretofore also the houses of our princes and noble men were often glased with Berill an example whereof is yet to be séene in Sudleie castell and in diuerse other places with fine christall but this especiallie in the time of the Romans wherof also some fragments haue béene taken vp in old ruines But now these are not in vse so that onelie the clearest glasse is most estéemed for we haue diuerse sorts some brought out of Burgundie some out of Normandie much out of Flanders beside that which is made in England which would be so good as the best if we were diligent and carefull to bestow more cost vpon it and yet as it is each one that may will haue it for his building Moreouer the mansion houses of our countrie townes and villages which in champaine ground stand altogither by stréets ioining one to an other but in woodland
their capacities and moulds It shall not be amisse therefore to begin at the nauie of Xerxes of which ech meane vessell as appéereth by Herodot was able to receiue two hundred and thirtie souldiers and some of them thrée hundred These were called triremes and were indéede gallies that had thrée rowes of ores on euerie side for the word Nauis is indifferentlie applied so well to the gallies as ship as to the conuersant in histories is easie to be found In old time also they had gallies of foure rowes fiue rowes six seauen eight nine twelue yea fifteene rowes of ores on a side iudge you then of what quantitie those vessels were Plinie lib. 7. noteth one Damasthenes to be the first maker of the gallies with two rowes called biremes Thucidides referreth the triremes to Ammocles of Corinthum the quadriremes were deuised by Aristotle of Carthage the quinquiremes by Nestchthon of Salamina the gallie of six rowes by Xenagoras of Syracusa from this to the tenth Nesigiton brought vp Alexander the great caused one to be made of twelue Ptolomeus Soter of fiftéene Demetrius the sonne of Antigonus of thirtie Ptolom Philad of fortie Ptol. Triphon of fiftie all which aboue foure were none other in mine opinion than vnweldie carts and more seruing for pleasure and to gaze vpon than anie vse in the wars for which they should be deuised But of all other I note one of fortie rowes which Ptolo. Philopater builded conteining 200 and eightie cubits in length and eight and fortie cubits in breadth it held also foure thousand ores foure hundred mariners and three thousand souldiers so that in the said vessell were seauen thousand and foure hundred persons a report incredible if truth and good testimonie did not confirme the same I must needs confesse therefore that the ancient vessels far exceeded ours for capacitie neuerthelesse if you regard the forme and the assurance from perill of the sea and therewithall the strength and nimblenesse of such as are made in our time you shall easilie find that ours are of more value than theirs for as the greatest vessell is not alwaies the safest so that of most huge capacitie is not alwaies the aptest to shift and brooke the seas as might be seene by the great Henrie the hugest vessell that euer England framed in our times Neither were the ships of old like vnto ours in mould and maner of building aboue the water for of low gallies in our seas we make small account nor so full of ease within sith time hath ingendred more skill in the wrights and brought all things to more perfection than they had in the beginning And now to come vnto our purpose at the first intended The nauie of England may be diuided into three sortes of which the one serueth for the warres the other for burden and the third for fishermen which get their liuing by fishing on the sea How manie of the first order are mainteined within the realme it passeth my cunning to expresse yet sith it may be parted into the nauie roiall and common fleete I thinke good to speake of those that belong vnto the prince and so much the rather for that their number is certeine well knowne to verie manie Certes there is no prince in Europe that hath a more beautifull or gallant sort of ships than the quéenes maiestie of England at this present and those generallie are of such exceeding force that two of them being well appointed and furnished as they ought will not let to encounter with thrée or foure of those of other countries and either bowge them or put them to flight if they may not bring them home Neither are the moulds of anie forren barkes so conuenientlie made to brooke so well one sea as another lieng vpon the shore in anie part of the continent as those of England And therefore the common report that strangers make of our ships amongst themselues is dailie confirmed to be true which is that for strength assurance nimblenesse and swiftnesse of sailing there are no vessels in the world to be compared with ours And all these are committed to the regiment and safe custodie of the admerall who is so called as some imagine of the Gréeke word Almiras a capiteine on the sea for so saith Zonaras in Basilio Macedone Basilio Porphyriogenito though other fetch it from Ad mare the Latine words another sort from Amyras the Saracen magistrate or from some French deriuation but these things are not for this place and therefore I passe them ouer The quéenes highnesse hath at this present which is the foure and twentith of hir reigne alreadie made and furnished to the number of foure or fiue and twentie great ships which lie for the most part in Gillingham rode beside thrée gallies of whose particular names and furnitures so far foorth as I can come by them it shall not be amisse to make report at this time The names of so manie ships belonging to hir maiestie as I could come by at this present The Bonaduenture Elizabeth Ionas White Beare Philip and Marie Triumph Bull. Tiger Antlope Hope Lion Victorie Marie Rose Foresight Swift sute Aid Handmaid Dread nought Swallow Genet Barke of Bullen Achates Falcon. George Reuenge It is said that as kings and princes haue in the yoong daies of the world and long since framed themselues to erect euerie yeare a citie in some one place or other of their kingdoms and no small woonder that Sardanapalus should begin finish two to wit Anchialus and Tharsus in one daie so hir grace dooth yearelie build one ship or other to the better defense of hir frontiers from the enimie But as of this report I haue no assured certeintie so it shall suffice to haue said so much of these things yet this I thinke worthie further to be added that if they should all be driuen to seruice at one instant which God forbid she should haue a power by sea of about nine or ten thousand men which were a notable companie beside the supplie of other vessels apperteining to hir subiects to furnish vp hir voiage Beside these hir grace hath other in hand also of whom hereafter as their turnes doo come about I will not let to leaue some further remembrance She hath likewise thrée notable gallies the Spéed well the Trie right and the Blacke gallie with the fight whereof and rest of the nauie roiall it is incredible to saie how greatlie hir grace is delighted and not without great cause I saie sith by their meanes hir coasts are kept in quiet and sundrie forren enimies put backe which otherwise would inuade vs. The number of those that serue for burden with the other whereof I haue made mention alreadie and whose vse is dailie séene as occasion serueth in time of the warres is to mée vtterlie vnknowne Yet if the report of one record be anie thing at all to be credited there are 135 ships that exceed 500 tun topmen vnder 100
and aboue fortie 656 hoies 100 but of hulkes catches fisherboats and craiers it lieth not in me to deliuer the iust account sith they are hardlie to come by Of these also there are some of the quéenes maiesties subiects that haue two or three some foure or six and as I heard of late one man whose name I suppresse for modesties sake hath bene knowne not long since to haue had sixtéene or seuentéene and emploied them wholie to the wafting in and out of our merchants whereby he hath reaped no small commoditie and gaine I might take occasion to tell of the notable and difficult voiages made into strange countries by Englishmen and of their dailie successe there but as these things are nothing incident to my purpose so I surcease to speake of them Onelie this will I ad to the end all men shall vnderstand somewhat of the great masses of treasure dailie emploied vpon our nauie how there are few of those ships of the first and second sort that being apparelled and made readie to sale are not woorth one thousand pounds or thrée thousand ducats at the least if they should presentlie be sold. What shall we thinke then of the greater but especiallie of the nauie roiall of which some one vessell is woorth two of the other as the ship wrights haue often told me It is possible that some couetous person hearing this report will either not credit it at all or suppose monie so emploied to be nothing profitable to the queenes coffers as a good husband said once when he hard there should be prouision made for armor wishing the quéenes monie to be rather laid out to some spéedier returne of gaine vnto hir grace bicause the realme saith he is in case good enough and so peraduenture he thought But if as by store of armour for the defense of the countrie he had likewise vnderstanded that the good kéeping of the sea is the safegard of our land he would haue altered his censure and soone giuen ouer his iudgement For in times past when our nation made small account of nauigation how soone did the Romans then the Saxons last of all the Danes inuade this Iland whose crueltie in the end inforced our countrumen as it were euen against their wils to prouide for ships from other places and build at home of their owne whereby their enimies were offentimes distressed But most of all were the Normans therein to be commended For in a short processe of time after the conquest of this Iland and good consider at ion had for the well kéeping of the same they supposed nothing more commodious for the defense of the countrie than the maintenance of a strong nauie which they spéedilie prouided mainteined and thereby reaped in the end their wished securitie wherewith before their times this Iland was neuer acquainted Before the comming of the Romans I doo not read that we had anie ships at all except a few made of wicker and couered with buffle hides like vnto the which there are some to be seene at this present in Scotland as I heare although there be a little I wote not well what difference betwéene them Of the same also Solinus speaketh so far as I remember neuerthelesse it may be gathered by his words how the vpper parts of them aboue the water onelie were framed of the said wickers and that the Britons did vse to fast all the whiles they went to the sea in them but whether it were doone for policie or superstition as yet I doo not read In the beginning of the Saxons regiment we had some ships also but as their number and mould was litle and nothing to the purpose so Egbert was the first prince that euer throughlie began to know this necessitie of a nauie and vse the seruice thereof in the defense of his countrie After him also other princes as Alfred Edgar Ethelred c indeuoured more and more to store themselues at the full with ships of all quantities but chieflie Edgar for he prouided a nauie of 1600 aliàs 3600 saile which he diuided into foure parts and sent them to abide vpon foure sundrie coasts of the land to keepe the same from pirats Next vnto him and worthie to be remembred is Etheldred who made a law that euerie man holding 310 hidelands should find a ship furnished to serue him in the warres Howbeit and as I said before when all their name was at the greatest it was not comparable for force and sure building to that which afterward the Normans prouided neither that of the Normans anie thing like to the same that is to be séene now in these our daies For the iourneies also of our ships you shall vnderstand that a well builded vessell will run or saile commonlie thrée hundred leagues or nine hundred miles in a wéeke or peraduenture some will go 2200 leagues in six wéekes and an halfe And suerlie if their lading be readie against they come thither there be of them that will be here at the west Indies home againe in twelue or thirteene wéekes from Colchester although the said Indies be eight hundred leagues from the cape or point of Cornewall as I haue beene informed This also I vnderstand by report of some trauellers that if anie of our vessels happen to make a voiage to Hispaniola or new Spaine called in time past Quinquezia and Haiti and lieth betwéene the north tropike and the equator after they haue once touched at the Canaries which are eight daies sailing or two hundred and fiftie leages from S. Lucas de Barameda in Spaine they will be there in thirtie or fourtie dates home againe in Cornewall in other eight wéekes which is a goodlie matter beside the safetie and quietnesse in the passage But more of this elsewhere Of faires and markets Chap. 18. THere are as I take it few great townes in England that haue not their wéekelie markets one or more granted from the prince in which all maner of prouision for houshold is to be bought and sold for ease and benefit of the countrie round about Wherby as it cōmeth to passe that no buier shall make anie great iourneie in the purueiance of his necessities so no occupier shall haue occasion to trauell far off with his commodities except it be to séeke for the highest prices which commonlie are néere vnto great cities where round and spéediest vtterance is alwaies to be had And as these haue béene in times past erected for the benefit of the realme so are they in many places too too much abused for the reliefe and ease of the buier is not so much intended in them as the benefit of the seller Neither are the magistrats for the most part as men loth to displease their neighbours for their one yeares dignitie so carefull in their offices as of right and dutie they should bée For in most of these markets neither assises of bread nor orders for goodnesse and swéetnesse of graine and
haue such an equall iudge as by certeine knowledge of both were able to pronounce vpon them I doubt not but he would giue the price vnto the gardens of our daies and generallie ouer all Europe in comparison of those times wherein the old exceeded Plinie and other speake of a rose that had thrée score leaues growing vpon one button but if I should tell of one which bare a triple number vnto that proportion I know I shall not be beléeued and no great matter though I were not howbeit such a one was to be séene in Antwarpe 1585 as I haue heard and I know who might haue had a slip or stallon thereof if he would haue ventured ten pounds vpon the growth the same which should haue bene but a tickle hazard and therefore better vndoone as I did alwaies imagine For mine owne part good reader let me boast a litle of my garden which is but small and the whole Area thereof little aboue 300 foot of ground and yet such hath béene my good lucke in purchase of the varietie of simples that notwithstanding my small abilitie there are verie néere thrée hundred of one sort and other conteined therein no one of them being common or vsuallie to bee had If therefore my little plot void of all cost in keeping be so well furnished what shall we thinke of those of Hampton court None such Tibaults Cobham garden and sundrie other apperteining to diuerse citizens of London whom I could particularlie name if I should not séeme to offend them by such my demeanour and dealing Of waters generallie Chap. 21. THere is no one commodâ—tie in England whereof I can make lesse report than of our waters For albeit our soile abound with water in all places and that in the most ample maner yet can I not find by some experience that almost anie one of our riuers hath such od and rare qualities as diuers of the manie are said to be indued withall Vitruuius writeth of a well in Paphlagonia whose water séemeth as it were mixed with wine addeth thereto that diuerse become drunke by superfluous taking of the same The like force is found In amne Licesio a riuer of Thracia vpon whose bankes a man shall hardlie misse to find some traueller or other sléeping for drunkennesse by drinking of that liquor Néere also vnto Ephesus are certeine welles which taste like sharpe vineger and therefore are much esteemed of by such as are sicke and euill at ease in those parts At Hieropolis is a spring of such force as Strabo saith that the water thereof mixed with certaine herbes of choise dooth colour wooll with such a glosse that the die thereof contendeth with skarlet murreie and purple and oft ouercommeth the same The Cydims in Tarsus of Cilicia is of such vertue that who so batheth himselfe therein shall find great case of the gowt that runneth ouer all his ioints In one of the fortunate Iles saith Pomponius the Cosmographer are two springs one of the which bringeth immoderate laughter to him that drinketh thereof the other sadnesse and restraint of that effect whereby the last is taken to be a souereigne medicine against the other to the great admiration of such as haue beholden it At Susis in Persia there is a spring which maketh him that drinketh downe anie of the water to cast all his téeth but if he onlie wash his mouth withall it maketh them fast his mouth to be verie healthfull So there is a riuer among the Gadarens wherof if a beast drinke he foorthwith casteth hoofe haire and hornes if he haue anie Also a lake in Assyria neere vnto the which there is a kind of glewie matter to be found which holdeth such birds as by hap doo light thereon so fast as birdlime by means wherof verie manie doo perish and are taken that light vpon the same howbeit if anie portion hereof happen to be set on fire by casualtie or otherwise it will neuer be quenched but by casting on of dust as Caieranus dooth report Another at Halicarnassus called Salmacis which is noted to make such men effeminate as drinke of the water of the same Certes it maie be saith Strabo that the water and aire of a region maie qualifie the courage of some men but none can make them effeminate nor anie other thing because of such corruption in them sooner than superfluous wealth and inconstancie of liuing and behauiour which is a bane vnto all natures lib. 4. All which with manie other not now comming to memorie as the Letheus Styx Phlegeton Cocitus c haue strange incredible reports made of them by the new and ancient writers the like wherof are not to be found in England which I impute wholie to the blessing of God who hath ordeined nothing amongst vs in this our temperate region but that which is good wholesome and most commodious for our nation We haue therefore no hurtfull waters amongst vs but all wholesome and profitable for the benefit of the people Neuertheles as none of them is to be found without hir fish so we know by experience that diuerse turne ash some other elme and oken stakes or poles that lie or are throwne into them into hard stone in long continuance of time which is the strangest thing that I can learne at this present wherevpon to rest for a certentie Yet I read of diuerse welles wherevnto our old writers ascribe either wonderfull vertues or rare courses as of one vpon the shore beyond the which the sea floweth euerie daie twise a large mile and more and yet is the surge of that water alwaies seuen foot from the salt sea whereby it should séeme that the head of the spring is mooueable But alas I doo not easilie beleeue it more than that which is written of the Lilingwan lake in Wales which is néere to the Seuerne and receiueth the flowing sea into hir chanell as it were a gulfe and yet is neuer full but when the sea goeth awaie by reason of the ebbe it casteth vp the water with such violence â—hat hir banks are ouerflowne and drowned which is an absurd report They ad also that if all the people of the countrie stood neere to the same with their â—ces toward the lake in such maner that the dashing of the water might touch and wet their clothes they should haue no power to go from thence but mawgre their resistance be drawne into that gulfe and perish whereas if they turned their backs vnto the same they should suffer no such inconuenience though they stood neuer so neere Manie other such like toies I could set downe of other welles and waters of our countrie But whie should I write that for other men to read whereto I giue no credit my selfe more than to the report which Iohannes du Choul dooth make in his description of Pilats lake In monte Pilati in Gallia or Boccatius of the Scaphigiâ—lo in the Appenine hils or Foelix Malliolus of Pilaâ—s lake
the waie and so much are our rauens giuen to this kind of spoile that some idle and curious heads of set purpose haue manned reclaimed and vsed them in stéed of hawkes when other could not be had Some doo imagine that the rauen should be the vulture and I was almost persuaded in times past to beleeue the same but finding of late a description of the vulture which better agreeth with the forme of a second kind of eagle I fréelie surcease to be longer of that opinion for as it hath after a sort the shape colour and quantitie of an eagle so are the legs and feet more hairie and rough their sides vnder their wings better couered with thicke downe wherewith also their gorge or a part of their brest vnder their throtes is armed and not with fethers than are the like parts of the eagle and vnto which portraiture there is no member of the rauen who is also verie blacke of colour that can haue anie resemblance we haue none of them in England to my knowledge if we haue they go generallie vnder the name of eagle or erne Neither haue we the pygargus or gripe wherefore I haue no occasion to intreat further I haue séene the carren crowes so cunning also by their owne industrie of late that they haue vsed to soare ouer great riuers as the Thames for example suddenlie comming downe haue caught a small fish in their féet gone awaie withall without wetting of their wings And euen at this present the aforesaid riuer is not without some of them a thing in my opinion not a little to be wondered at We haue also ospraies which bréed with vs in parks and woods wherby the kéepers of the same doo reape in bréeding time no small commoditie for so soone almost as the yoong are hatched they tie them to the but ends or ground ends of sundrie trees where the old ones finding them doo neuer cease to bring fish vnto them which the keepers take eat from them and commonlie is such as is well fed or not of the worst sort It hath not béene my hap hitherto to see anie of these foules partlie through mine owne negligence but I heare that it hath one foot like an hawke to catch hold withall and another resembling a goose wherewith to swim but whether it be so or not so I refer the further search and triall thereof vnto some other This neuertheles is certeine that both aliue and dead yea euen hir verie oile is a deadlie terrour to such fish as come within the wind of it There is no cause wherefore I should describe the cormorant amongst hawkes of which some be blacke and manie pied chiefelie about the I le of Elie where they are taken for the night rauen except I should call him a water hawke But sith such dealing is not conuenient let vs now sée what may be said of our venemous wormes and how manie kinds we haue of them within our realme and countrie Of venemous beasts Chap. 6. IF I should go about to make anie long discourse of venemous beasts or wormes bred in England I should attempt more than occasion it selfe would readilie offer sith we haue verie few worms but no beasts at all that are thought by their naturall qualities to be either venemous or hurtfull First of all therefore we haue the adder in our old Saxon toong called an atter which some men doo not rashlie take to be the viper Certes if it be so then is it not the viper author of the death of hir parents as some histories affirme and thereto Encelius a late writer in his De re metallica lib. 3. cap. 38. where he maketh mention of a she adder which he saw in Sala whose wombe as he saith was eaten out after a like fashion hir yoong ones lieng by hir in the sunne shine as if they had béene earth worms Neuerthelesse as he nameth them Viperas so he calleth the male Echis and the female Echidna concluding in the end that Echis is the same serpent which his countrimen to this daie call Ein atter as I haue also noted before out of a Saxon dictionarie For my part I am persuaded that the slaughter of their parents is either not true at all or not alwaies although I doubt not but that nature hath right well prouided to inhibit their superfluous increase by some meanes or other and so much the rather am I led herevnto for that I gather by Nicander that of all venemous worms the viper onelie bringeth out hir yoong aliue and therefore is called in Latine Vipera quasi viuipara but of hir owne death he dooth not to my remembrance saie any thing It is testified also by other in other words to the like sense that Echis id est vipera sola exserpentibus non ouased animalia parit And it may well be for I remember that I haue read in Philostratus De vita Appollonij how he saw a viper licking hir yoong I did see an adder once my selfe that laie as I thought sléeping on a moule-hill out of whose mouth came eleuen yoong adders of twelue or thirtéene inches in length a péece which plaied to and fro in the grasse one with another till some of them espied me So soone therefore as they saw my face they ran againe into the mouth of their dam whome I killed and then found each of them shrowded in a distinct cell or pannicle in hir bellie much like vnto a soft white iellie which maketh me to be of the opinion that our adder is the viper indéed The colour of their skin is for the most part like rustie iron or iron graie but such as be verie old resemble a ruddie blew as once in the yeare to wit in Aprill or about the beginning of Maie they cast their old skins whereby as it is thought their age reneweth so their stinging bringeth death without present remedie be at hand the wounded neuer ceasing to swell neither the venem to worke till the skin of the one breake and the other ascend vpward to the hart where it finisheth the naturall effect except the iuico of dragons in Latine called Dracunculus minor he spéedilie ministred and dronke in strong ale or else some other medicine taken of like force that may counteruaile and ouercome the venem of the same The length of them is most commonlie two foot and somwhat more but seldome dooth it extend vnto two foot six inches except it be in some rare and monsterous one whereas our snakes are much longer and séene sometimes to surmount a yard or thrée foot although their poison be nothing so grieuous and deadlie as the others Our adders lie in winter vnder stones as Aristotle also saith of the viper Lib. 8. cap. 15. and in holes of the earth rotten stubs of trees and amongst the dead leaues but in the heat of the summer they come abroad and lie
certeine materiall titles added at the head of euerie page of the said historie it is a thing of no difficultie to comprehend what is discoursed and discussed in the same Wherein sith histories are said to be the registers of memorie and the monuments of veritie all louers of knowlege speciallie historicall are aduisedlie to marke among other points the seuerall and successiue alterations of regiments in this land whereof it was my meaning to haue made an abstract but that the same is sufficientlie handled in the first booke and fourth chapter of the description of Britaine whereto if the seuenth chapter of the same booke be also annexed there is litle or no defect at all in that case wherof iustlie to make complaint Wherfore by remitting the readers to those I reape this aduantage namelie a dischage of a forethought purposed labour which as to reduce into some plausible forme was a worke both of time paine and studie so seeming vnlikelie to be comprised in few words being a matter of necessarie and important obseruation occasion of tediousnes is to and fro auoided speciallie to the reader who is further to be aduertised that the computations of yeares here and there expressed according to the indirect direction of the copies whense they were deriued and drawne is not so absolute in some mens opinion as it might haue beene howbeit iustifiable by their originals Wherin hereafter God prolonging peace in the church and common-welth that the vse of bookes may not be abridged such diligent care shall be had that in whatsoeuer the helpe of bookes will doo good or conference with antiquaries auaile there shall want no will to vse the one and the other And yet it is not a worke for euerie common capacitie naie it is a toile without head or taile euen for extraordinarie wits to correct the accounts of former ages so many hundred yeares receiued out of vncerteinties to raise certeinties and to reconcile writers dissenting in opinion and report But as this is vnpossible so is no more to be looked for than may be performed and further to inquire as it is against reason so to vndertake more than may commendablie be atchiued were fowle follie Abraham Fleming THE FIRST BOOKE of the historie of England ·HONI· SOIT· QVI· MAL· Y· PENSE· Who inhabited this Iland before the comming of Brute of Noah his three sonnes among whom the whole earth was diuided and to which of their portions this Ile of Britaine befell The first Chapter WHat manner of people did first inhabite this our country which hath most generallie and of longest continuance béene knowne among all nations by the name of Britaine as yet is not certeinly knowne neither can it be decided frō whence the first inhabitants there of came by reason of such diuersitie in iudgements as haue risen amongst the learned in this behalfe But sith the originall in maner of all nations is doubtfull and euen the same for the more part fabulous that alwaies excepted which we find in the holie scriptures I wish not any man to leane to that which shall be here set downe as to an infallible truth sith I doo but onlie shew other mens coniectures grounded neuerthelesse vpon likelie reasons concerning that matter whereof there is now left but little other certeintie or rather none at all To fetch therefore the matter from the farthest and so to stretch it forward it séemeth by the report of Dominicus Marius Niger that in the beginning when God framed the world and diuided the waters apart from the earth this I le was then a parcell of the continent and ioined without any separation of sea to the maine land But this opinion as all other the like vncerteinties I leaue to be discussed of by the learned howbeit for the first inhabitation of this I le with people I haue thought good to set downe in part what may be gathered out of such writers as haue touched that matter and may séeme to giue some light vnto the knowledge thereof First therefore Iohn Bale our countrieman who in his time greatlie trauelled in the search of such antiquities dooth probablie coniecture that this land was inhabited and replenished with people long before the floud and that time in the which the generation of mankind as Moses writeth began to multiplie vpon the vniuersall face of the earth and therfore it followeth that as well this land was inhabited with people long before the daies of Noah as any the other countries and parts of the world beside But when they had once forsaken the ordinances appointed them by God and betaken them to new waies inuented of themselues such loosenesse of life ensued euerie where as brought vpon them the great deluge and vniuersall floud in the which perished as well the inhabitants of these quarters as the residue of the race of mankind generallie dispersed in euerie other part of the whole world onelie Noah his familie excepted who by the prouidence and pleasure of almightie God was preserued from the rage of those waters to recontinue and repaire the new generation of man vpon earth AFter the flood as Annius de Viterbo recordeth and reason also enforceth Noah was the onlie monarch of all the wrold and as the same Annius gathereth by the account of Moses in the 100. yeare after the flood Noah diuided the earth among his thrée sonnes assigning to the possession of his eldest sonne all that portion of land which now is knowne by the name of Asia to his second sonne Cham he appointed all that part of the world which now is called Affrica and to his third sonne Iaphet was allotted all Europa with all the Iles therto belonging wherin among other was conteined this our Ile of Britaine with the other Iles thereto perteining IAphet the third son of Noah of some called Iapetus and of others Atlas Maurus because he departed this life in Mauritania was the first as Bodinus affirmeth by the authoritie and consent of the Hebrue Gréeke Latine writers that peopled the countries of Europe which afterward he diuided among his sonnes of whom Iuball as Tarapha affirmeth obteined the kingdome of Spaine Gomer had dominion ouer the Italians and as Berosus and diuers other authors agrée Samothes was the founder of Celtica which conteined in it as Bale witnesseth a great part of Europe but speciallie those countries which now are called by the names of Gallia and Britannia Thus was the Iland inhabited and peopled within 200 yéeres after the floud by the children of Iaphet the sonne of Noah this is not onlie prooued by Annius writing vpon Berosus but also confirmed by Moses in the scripture where he writeth that of the offspring of Iaphet the Iles of the Gentiles wherof Britain is one were sorted into regions in the time of Phaleg the sonne of Hiber who was borne at the time of the
of writers by situation of place and by affinitie of language that this Iland was first found and inhabited by the Celts that there name from Samothes to Albion continued here the space of 310 yeares or there abouts And finallie it is likelie that aswell the progenie as the spéech of them is partlie remaining in this I le among the inhabitants and speciallie the British euen vnto this day Of the giant Albion of his comming into this Iland diuers opinions why it was called Albion why Albion and Bergion were slaine by Hercules of Danaus and of his 50. daughters The third Chapter NEptunus called by Moses as some take it Nepthuim the sixt sonne of Osiris after the account of Annius and the brother of Hercules had appointed him of his father as Diodorus writeth the gouernement of the ocean sea wherefore he furnished himselfe of sundrie light ships for the more redie passage by water which in the end grew to the number of a full nauie so by continuall exercise he became so skilfull and therewith so mightie vpon the waters as Higinus Pictonius doo write that he was not onelie called the king but also estéemed the god of the seas He had to wife a ladie called Amphitrita who was also honored as goddesse of the seas of whose bodie he begat sundrie children and as Bale reporteth he made euerie one of them king of an Iland In the I le of Britaine he landed his fourth son called Albion the giant who brought the same vnder his subiection And herevpon it resteth that Iohn Textor and Polydor Virgil made mention that light shippes were first inuented in the British seas and that the same were couered round with the hides of beasts for defending them from the surges and waues of the water This Albion being put by his father in possession of this I le of Britaine within short time subdued the Samotheans the first inhabitantes thereof without finding any great resistance for that as before ye haue heard they had giuen ouer the practise of all warlike and other painefull exercises and through vse of effeminate pleasures whereunto they had giuen themselues ouer they were become now vnapt to withstand the force of their enimies and so by the testimonie of Nicholaus Perottus Rigmanus Philesius Aristotle and Humfrey Llhoyd with diuers other both forraine home-writers this Iland was first called by the name of Albion hauing at one time both the name and inhabitants changed from the line of Iaphet vnto the accursed race of Cham. This Albion that thus changed the name of this Ile and his companie are called giants which signifieth none other than a tall kind of men of that vncorrupt stature and highnesse naturallie incident to the first age which Berosus also séemeth to allow where he writeth that Noah was one of the giants and were not so called only of their monstrous greatnesse as the common people thinke although in deed they exceeded the vsuall stature of men now in these daies but also for that they tooke their name of the soile where they were borne for Gigantes signifieth the sons of the earth the Aborigines or as Cesar calleth them Indigenae that is borne and bred out of the earth were they inhabited Thus some thinke but verelie although that their opinion is not to be allowed in any condition which maintaine that there should be any Aborigines or other kind of men than those of Adams line yet that there haue béene men of far greater stature than are now to be found is sufficientlie prooued by the huge bones of those that haue beene found in our time or lately before whereof here to make further relation it shall not need sith in the description of Britaine ye shall find it sufficientlie declared But now to our purpose As Albion held Britaine in subiection so his brother Bergion kept Ireland and the Orkenies vnder his rule and dominion and hearing that their coosine Hercules Lybicus hauing finished his conquests in Spaine meant to passe through Gallia into Italie against their brother Lestrigo that oppressed Italie vnder subiection of him other of his brethren the sons also of Neptune as well Albion as Bergion assembling their powers togither passed ouer into Gallia to stoppe the passage of Hercules whose intention was to vanquish and destroie those tyrants the sonnes of Neptune their complices that kept diuers countries and regions vnder the painefull yoke of their heauie thraldome The cause that moned Hercules thus to pursue vpon those tyrants now reigning thus in the world was for that not long before the greatest part of them had conspired togither and slaine his father Osiris not withstanding that they were nephues to the same Osiris as sonnes to his brother Neptune and not contented with his slaughter they diuided his carcase also amongst them so that each of them got a peece in token of reioising at their murtherous atchiued enterprise For this cause Hercules whome Moses calleth Laabin proclamed warres against them all in reuenge of his fathers death and first he killed Triphon and Bustris in Aegypt then Anteus in Mauritania the Garions in Spaine which enterprise atchiued he led his armie towardes Italie and by the way passed through a part of Gallia where Albion and Bergion hauing vnited their powers togither were readie to receiue him with battell and so néere to the mouth of the riuer called Rhosne in Latine Rhodanus they met fought At the first there was a right terrible and cruell conflict betwixt them And albeit that Hercules had the greatest number of men yet was it verie doubtfull a great while to whether part the glorie of that daies worke would bend whereupon when the victorie began outright to turne vnto Albion and to his brother Bergion Hercules perceiuing the danger and likelihood of vtter loose of that battell speciallie for that his men had wasted their weapons he caused those that stood still and were not otherwise occupied to stoope downe and to gather vp stones whereof in that place there was great plentie which by his commandement they bestowed so fréelie vpon their enimies that in the end hée obteined the victorie and did not only put his aduersaries to flight but also slue Albion there in the field togither with his brother Bergion and the most part of all their whole armie This was the end of Albion and his brother Bergion by the valiant prowesse of Hercules who as one appointed by Gods prouidence to subdue the cruell vnmercifull tyrants spent his time to the benefit of mankind deliuering the oppressed from the heauie yoke of miserable thraldome in euerie place where he came And by the order of this battell wée maye learne whereof the poets had their inuention when they faine in their writings that Iupiter holpe his sonne Hercules by throwing downe stones from heauen in this battell
from Claudius as it were to appease the souldiers procure them to set forward But when this Narcissus went vp into the tribunall throne of Plautius to declare the cause of his comming the souldiers taking great indignation therewith cried O Saturnalia as if they should haue celebrated their feast daie so called When the seruants apparelled in their maisters robes represented the roome of their maisters and were serued by them as if they had béene their seruants and thus at length constreined through verie shame they agréed to follow Plautius Herevpon being embarked he diuided his nauie into thrée parts to the end that if they were kept off from arriuing in one place yet they might take land in another The ships suffered some impeachment in their passage by a contrarie wind that droue them backe againe but yet the marriners and men of warre taking good courage vnto them the rather because there was séene a fierie leame to shoot out of the east towards the west which way their course lay made forwards againe with their ships and landed without finding anie resistance For the Britains looked not for their comming wherefore when they heard how their enimies were on land they got them into the woods and marishes trusting that by lingering of time the Romans would be constreined to depart as it had chanced in time past to Iulius Cesar aforesaid The end of the third booke THE FOVRTH BOOKE of the Historie of England The Britains discomfited sore wounded slaine and disabled by Plautius and his power Claudius the Romane taketh the chiefe citie of Cymbebeline the king of Britaine he bereaueth the Britains of their armour and by vertue of his conquest ouer part of the land is surnamed Britannicus The first Chapter NOw Plautius had much adoo to find out the Britains in their lurking holes and couerts howbeit when he had traced them out first he vanquished Cataratacus and after Togodumnus the sonnes of Cynobellinus for their father was dead not verie long before These therefore fléeing their waies Plautus receiued part of the people called Bodumni which were subiects vnto them that were called Catuellani into the obeisance of the Romans and so leauing there a garrison of souldiors passed further till he came to a riuer which could not well be passed without a bridge wherevpon the Britains tooke small regard to defend the passage as though they had béene sure inough But Plautius appointed a certeine number of Germans which he had there with him being vsed to swim ouer riuers although neuer so swift to get ouer which they did sleaing and wounding the Britains horsses which were fastened to their wagons or chariots so that the Britains were not able to doo anie péece of their accustomed seruice with the same Herewithall was Flauius Uespasianus that afterwards was emperour with his brother Sabinus sent ouer that riuer which being got to the further side slue a great number of the enimies The residue of the Britains fled but the next day proffered a new battell in the which they fought so stoutlie that the victorie depended long in doubtfull balance till Caius Sidius Geta being almost at point to be taken did so handle the matter that the Britains finallie were put to flight for the which his valiant dooings triumphant honors were bestowed vpon him although he was no consull The Britains after this battell withdrew to the riuer of Thames néere to the place where it falleth into the sea and knowing the shallowes and firme places thereof easilie passed ouer to the further side whom the Romans following through lacke of knowledge in the nature of the places they fell into the marish grounds and so came to lose manie of their men namelie of the Germans which were the first that passed ouer the riuer to follow the Britains partlie by a bridge which lay within the countrie ouer the said riuer and partlie by swimming and other such shift as they presentlie made The Britains hauing lost one of their rulers namelie Togodumnus of whom ye haue heard before were nothing discouraged but rather more egerlie set on reuenge Plautius perceiuing their fiercenesse went no further but staid and placed garrisons in steeds where néed required to kéepe those places which he had gotten and with all spéed sent aduertisement vnto Claudius according to that he had in commandement if anie vrgent necessitie should so mooue him Claudius therefore hauing all things before hand in a readinesse straightwaies vpon the receiuing of the aduertisement departed from Rome and came by water vnto Ostia and from thence vnto Massilia and so through France sped his iournies till he came to the side of the Ocean sea and then imbarking himselfe with his people passed ouer into Britaine and came to his armie which abode his comming néere the Thames side where being ioined they passed the riuer againe fought with the Britains in a pitcht field and getting the victorie tooke the towne of Camelodunum which some count to be Colchester being the chiefest citie apperteining vnto Cynobelinus He reduced also manie other people into his subiection some by force and some by surrender whereof he was called oftentimes by the name of emperour which was against the ordinance of the Romans for it was not lawfull for anie to take that name vpon him oftener than once in anie one voiage Moreouer Claudius tooke from the Britains their armor and weapons and committed the gouernment of them vnto Plautius commanding him to endeuour himselfe to subdue the residue Thus hauing brought vnder a part of Britaine and hauing made his abode therin not past a sixtene daies he departed and came backe againe to Rome with victorie in the sixt month after his setting foorth from thence giuing after his returne to his sonne the surname of Britannicus This warre he finished in maner as before is said in the fourth yéere of his reigne which fell in the yéere of the world 4011 after the birth of our Sauiour 44 and after the building of Rome 79. The diuerse opinions and variable reports of writers touching the partile conquest of this Iland by the Romans the death of Guiderius The second Chapter THere be that write how Claudius subdued and added to the Romane empire the Iles of Orknie situate in the north Ocean beyond Britaine which might well be accomplished either by Plautius or some other his lieutenant for Plautius indéed for his noble prowesse and valiant acts atchiued in Britaine afterwards triumphed Titus the sonne of Uespasian also wan no small praise for deliuering his father out of danger in his time being beset with a companie of Britains which the said Titus bare downe and put to flight with great slaughter Beda following the authoritie of Suetonius writeth bréeflie of this matter and saith that Claudius passing ouer into this I le to the which neither before Iulius Cesar neither after him anie stranger durst come within few daies receiued the most part of
despitefull reproch of so mightie an empire and gouernement ouer the whole greeued vs to the heart as now at length we will not sticke to confesse and to vs it seemed the more intollerable bicause it onlie remained to the accomplishing of your perfect renowne and glorie And verilie as there is but one name of Britaine so was the losse to be esteemed smal to the common wealth of a land so plentifull of corne so abundant with store of pastures so flowing with veines of mettall so gainfull with reuenues rising of customs and tributes so enuironed with hauens so huge in circuit the which when Cesar the founder of this your honourable title being the first that entered into it writ that he had found an other world supposing it to be so big that it was not compassed with the sea but that rather by resemblance the great Ocean was compassed with it Now at that time Britaine was nothing furnished with ships of warre so that the Romans soone after the warres of Carthage and Asia had latelie beene exercised by sea against pirats and afterwards by reason of the warres against Mithridates were practised as well to fight by sea as land besides this the British nation then alone was accustomed but onelie to the Picts and Irishmen enimies halfe naked as yet not vsed to weare armor so that the Britains for lacke of skill easilie gaue place to the Romane puissance insomuch that Cesar might by that voiage onelie glorie in this that he had sailed and passed ouer the Ocean sea But in this wicked rebellious robberie first the nauie that in times pat defended the coasts of Gallia was led away by the pirat when he fled his waies and beside this a great number of other ships were built after the mould of ours the legion of Romane souldiers was woon and brought to take part with the enimie and diuers bands of strangers that were also souldiers were shut vp in the ships to serue also against vs. The merchants of the parties of Gallia were assembled and brought togither to the musters and no small numbers of barbarous nations procured to come in aid of the rebels trusting to inrich themselues by the spoile of the prouinces and all these were trained in the wars by sea through the instruction of the first attemptors of this mischieuous practise And although our armies were inuincible in force and manhood yet were they raw and not accustomed to the seas so that the fame of a greeuous and great trouble by warre that was toward by this shamefull rebellious robberie was blowne and sounded in ech mans eare although we hoped well of the end Unto the enimies forces was added a long sufferance of their wicked practises without punishment which had puffed vp the presumptuous boldnesse of desperate people that they bragged of our stay as it had bene for feare of them whereas the disaduantage which we had by sea seemed as it were by a fatall necessitie to deferre our victorie neither did they beleeue that the warre was put off for a time by aduise and counsell but rather to be omitted through despaire of dooing anie good against them insomuch that now the feare of common punishment being laid aside one of the mates slue the archpirat or capteine rouer as I may call him hoping in reward of so great an exploit to obteine the whole gouernement into his hands This warre then being both so necessarie so hard to enter vpon so growne in time to be stubborne stiffenesse and so well prouided for of the enimies part you noble emperour did so take it in hand that so soone as you bent the thundering force of your imperiall maiestie against that enimie ech man made account that the enterprise was alreadie atchiued For first of all to the end that your diuine power being absent the barbarous nations should not attempt anie new trouble a thing chieflie to be foreseene it was prouided for aforehand by intercession made vnto your maiestie for you your selfe you I say mightie lord Maximian eternall emperour vouchedsafe to aduance the comming of your diuine excellencie by the neerest way that might be which to you was not vnknowne You therefore suddenlie came to the Rhine and not with anie armie of horssemen or footmen but with the terrour of your presence did preserue and defend all that frontire for Maximian once being there vpon the riuage counteruailed anie the greatest armies that were to be found For you most inuincible emperour furnishing and arming diuers nauies made the enimie to vncerteine of his owne dooing and void of counsell that then at length he might perceiue that he was not defended but rather inclosed with the Ocean sea Here commeth to mind how pleasant and easefull the good lucke of those princes in gouerning the commong wealth with praise was which sitting still in Rome had triumphs and surnames appointed them of such nations as their capteins did vanquish Fronto therefore not the second but match with the first honor of the Romane eloquence when he yeelded vnto the emperor Antoninus the renowne of the warre brought to end in Britaine although he sitting at home in his palace within the citie had committed the conduct and successe of that warre ouer vnto the same Fronto it was confessed by him that the emperour sittings as it were at the helme of the ship deserued the praise by giuing of perfect order to the full accomplishing of the enterprise But you most inuincible emperour haue bene not onlie the appointer foorth how all this voiage by sea and prosecuting the warre by land should bee demeaned as apperteined to you by vertue of your imperiall rule and dignitie but also you haue beene an exhorter and setter forward in the things themselues and through example of your assured constancie the victorie was atchiued For you taking the sea at Sluice did put an irreuocable desire into their hearts that were readie to take ship at the same time in the mouth of the riuer of Saine insomuch that when the capteins of that armie did linger out the time by reason the seas and aire was troubled they cried to haue the sailes hoised vp and signe giuen to lanch foorth that they might passe forward on their iournie despising certeine tokens which threatened their wrecke and so set forward on a rainie and tempestuous day sailing with a crosse wind for no forewind might serue their turne But what was he that durst not commit himselfe vnto the sea were the same neuer so vnquiet when you were once vnder saile and set forward One voice and exhortation was among them all as report hath gone thereof when they heard that you were once got forth vpon the water What doo we dout what mean we to staie He is now loosed from land he is forward on his waie and peraduenture is alreadie got ouer Let vs put all things in proofe let vs venter through anie dangers of sea whatsoeuer What is
them sleaing a great number of them and chasing the residue In the morning earlie when as Cnute heard that the Englishmen were gone foorth of their lodgings he supposed that they were either fled awaie or else turned to take part with the enimies But as he approched to the enimies campe he vnderstood how the mater went for he found nothing there but bloud dead bodies and the spoile For which good seruice Cnute had the Englishmen in more estimation euer after and highlie rewarded their leader the came carle Goodwine When Cnute had ordered all things in Denmarke as was thought be hoofefull he returned againe into England and within a few daies after he was aduertised that the Swedeners made warre against his subiects of Denmarke vnder the loding of two great princes Ulfe and Ulafe Wherefore to defend his dominions in those parts he passed againe with an armie into Denmarke incountred with his enimies and receiued a sore ouerthrow loosing a great number both of Danes and Englishmen But gathering togither a new force of men he set againe vpon his enimies and ouercame them constreining the two foresaid princes to agrée vpon reasonable conditions of peace Matth. West recounteth that at this time earle Goodwine and the Englishmen wrought the enterprise aboue mentioned of assaulting the enimies campe in the night season after Cnute had first lost in the day before no small number of his people and that then the foresaid princes or kings as he nameth them Ulfus and Aulafus which latter he calleth Eiglafe were constrained to agrée vpon a peace The Danish chronicles alledge that the occasion of this warre rose hereof This Olanus aided Cnute as the same writers report against king Edmund and the Englishmen But when the peace should be made betweene Cnute and Edinund there was no consideration had of Olaus whereas through him the Danes chieflie obteined the victorie Herevpon Olanus was sore offended in his mind against Cnute and now vpon occasion sought to be reuenged But what soeuer the cause was of this warre betwixt these two princes the end was thus that Olnus was expelled out of his kingdome and constreined to flée to Gerithaslaus a duke in the parties of Eastland and afterward returning into Norwaie was slaine by such of his subiects as tooke part with Cnute in manner as in the historie of Norwaie appeareth more at large with the contrarietie found in the writings of them which haue recorded the histories of those north regions But here is to be remembred that the fame and glorie of the English nation was greatlie aduanced in these warres as well against the Swedeners as the Norwegians so that Cnute began to loue and trust the Englishmen much better than it was to be thought he would euer haue doone Shortlie after that Cnute was returned into England that is to say as some haue in the 15 yeare of his reigne he went to Rome to performe his vow which he had made to visit the places where the apostles Peter and Paule had their buriall where he was honorablie receiued of pope Iohn the 20 that then held the sée When he had doone his deuotion there he returned into England In the yeare following he made a iournie against the Scots which as then had rebelled but by the princelie power of Cnute they were subdued and brought againe to obedience so that not onelie king Malcolme but also two other kings Melbeath and Ieohmare became his subiects Finallie after that this noble prince king Cnute had reigned the tearme of 20 yeares currant after the death of Ethelred he died at Shaftsburie as the English writers affirme on the 12 of Nouember and was buried a Winchester But the Danish chronicles record the he died in Normandie and was buried at Rone as in the same chronicles ye may reade more at large The trespuissance of Cnute the amplenesse of his dominions the good and charitable fruits of his voiage to Rome redounding to the common benefit of all trauellers from England thither with what great personages he had conference and the honour that was doone him there his intollerable pride in commanding the waters of the flouds not to rise he humbleth himselfe and confesseth Christ Iesus to be king of kings he refuseth to weare the crowne during his life he reproueth a gentleman flatterer his issue legitimate and illegitimate his inclination in his latter yeares what religious places he erected repaired and inriched what notable men he fauoured and reuerenced his lawes and that in causes as well ecclesiasticall as tempoporall he had cheefe and sole gouernement in this land whereby the popse vsurped title of vniuersall supremasie is impeached The xiij Chapter THis Cnute was the mightiest prince that euer reigned ouer the English people for he had the souereigne rule ouer all Denmark England Norwaie Scotland and part of Sweiden Amongest other of his roiall acts he caused such tolles and tallages as were demanded of way-goers at bridges and stréets in the high way betwixt England and Rome to be diminished to the halfes and againe got also a moderation to be had in the paiment of the archbishops fées of his realme which was leuied of them in the court of Rome when they should receiue their palles as may appeare by a letter which he himselfe being at Rome directed to the bishops and other of the nobles of England In the which it also appeareth that besides the roiall interteinment which he had at Rome of pope Iohn he had conference there with the emperour Conrad with Rafe the king of Burgongne and manie other great princes and noble men which were present there at that time all which at this request in fauour of those Englishmen that should trauell vnto Rome granted as haue said to diminish such duties as were gathered of passingers He receiued there manie great gifts of the emperour and was highlie honored of him and likewise of the pope and of all other the high princes at that time present at Rome so that when he came home as some write he did grow greatlie into pride insomuch that being néere to the Thames or rather as other write vpon the sea strand néere to South-hampton and perceiuing the water to rise by reason of the tide he east off his gowne and wrapping it round togither threw it on the sands verie neere the increasing water and sat him downe vpon it speaking these or the like words to the sea Thou art saith he within the compasse of my dominion and the ground whereon I sit is mine and thou knowest that no wight dare disoboie my commandements I therefore doo now command thée not to rise vpon my ground nor to presume to wet anie part of thy souereigne lord and gouernour But the sea kéeping hir course rose still higher and higher and ouerflowed not onelie the kings féet but also flashed
vp vnto his legs and knees Wherewith the king started suddenlie vp and withdrew from it saieng withall to his nobles that were about him Behold you noble men you call me king which can not so much as staie by my commandement this small portion of water But know ye for certeine that there is no king but the father onelie of our Lord Iesus Christ with whome he reigneth at whose becke all things are gouerned Let vs therefore honor him let vs confesse and professe him to be the ruler of heauen earth and sea and besides him none other From thence he went to Winchester and there with his owne hands set his crowne vpon the head of the image of the crucifix which stood there in the church of the apostles Peter and Paule and from thenceforth he would neuer weare that crowne nor anie other Some write that he spake not the former words to the sea vpon anie presumptuousnesse of mind but onelie vpon occasion of the vaine title which in his commendation on of his gentlemen gaue him by way of flatterie as he rightlie tooke it for he called him the most mightiest king of all kings which ruled most at large both men sea and land Therefore to reprooue the fond flatterie of such vaine persons he deuised and practised the déed before mentioned thereby both to reprooue such flatterers and also that men might be admonished to consider the omnipotencie of almightie God He had issue by his wife quéene Emma a sonne named by the English chronicles Hardiknought but by the Danish writers Canute or Knute also a daughter named Gonilda that was after maried to Henrie the sonne of Conrad which also was afterwards emperour and named Henrie the third By his concubine Alwine that was daughter to Alselme whome some name earle of Hampton he had two bastard sonnes Harold and Sweno He was much giuen in his latter daies to vertue as he that considered how perfect felicitie rested onelie in godlines and true deuotion to serue the heauenlie king and gouernour of all things He repared in his time manie churches abbeies and houses of religion which by occasion of warres had béene fore defaced by him and his father but speciallie he did great cost vpon the abbeie of saint Edmund in the towne of Burie as partlie before is mentioned He also built two abbeies from the foundation as saint Benets in Norffolke seuen miles distant from Norwich and an other in Norwaie He did also build a church at Ashdone in Essex where he obteined the victorie of king Edmund and was present at the hallowing or consecration therof with a great multitude of the lords and nobles of the realme both English and Danes He also holpe with his owne hands to remooue the bodie of the holie archbishop Elphegus when the same was translated from London to Canturburie The roiall and most rich iewels which he his wife quéene Emma gaue vnto the church of Winchester might make the beholders to woonder at such their exceeding and bountifull munificence Thus did Cnute striue to reforme all such things as he and his ancestors had doone amisse and to wipe awaie the spot of euil dooing as suerlie to the outward sight of the world he did in deed he had the archbishop of Canturburie Achelnotus in singular reputation and vsed his counsell in matters of importance He also highlie fauoured Leofrike earle of Chester so that the same Leofrike bare great rule in ordering of things touching the state of the common wealth vnder him as one of his chiefe councellors Diuerse lawes and statutes he made for the gouernment fo the common wealth partlie agréeable with the lawes of king Edgar and other the kings that were his predecessors and partlie tempered according to his owne liking and as was thought to him most expedient among the which there be diuerse that concerne causes as well ecclesiasticall as temporall Whereby as maister Fox hath noted it maie be gathered that the gouernment of spirituall matters did depend then not vpon the bishop of Rome but rather apperteined vnto the lawfull authoritie of the temporall prince no lesse than matters and causes temporall But of these lawes statutes enacted by king Cnute ye may read more as ye find them set foorth in the before remembred booke of maister Willliam Lambert which for briefenesse we héere omit Variance amongest the peeres of the realme about the roiall succession the kingdome is diuided betwixt Harold the bastard sonne and Hardicnute the lawfullie begotten son of king Cnute late deceassed Harold hath the totall regiment the authoritie of earle Goodwine gardian to the queenes sonnes Harold is proclaimed king why Elnothus did stoutlie refuse to consecrate him why Harold was surnamed Harefoot he is supposed to be a shoomakers sonne and how it came to passe that he was counted king Cnutes bastard Alfred challengeth the crowne from Harold Goodwine vnder colour of friendlie interteinment procureth his retinues vtter vndooing a tithing of the Normans by the poll whether Alfred was interessed in the crowne the trecherous letter of Harold written in the name of queene Emma to hir two sons in Normandie wherevpon Alfred commeth ouer into England the vnfaithfull dealing of Goodwine with Alfred and his people teaching that in trust is treason a reseruation of euerie tenth norman the remanent slaine the lamentable end of Alfred and with what torments he was put to death Harold banisheth queene Emma out of England he degenerateth from his father the short time of his reigne his death and buriall The xiiij Chapter AFter that Cnute was departed this life there arose much variance amongst the peeres and great lords of the realme about the succession The Danes and Londoners which through continuall familiaritie with the Danes were become like vnto them elected Harold the base sonne of king Cnute to succéed in his fathers roome hauing earle Leofrike and diuerse other of the noble men of the north parts on their side But other of the Englishmen and namelie earle Goodwine earle of Kent with the chiefest lords of the west parts coueted rather to haue one of king Egelreds sonnes which were in Normandie or else Hardicnute the sonne of king Cnute by his wife quéene Emma which remained in Denmarke aduanced to the place This controuersie held in such wise that the realme was diuided as some write by lot betwixt the two brethren Harold and Hardicnute The north part as Mercia and Northumberland fell to Harold and the south part vnto Hardicnute but at length the whole remained vnto Harold bicause his brother Hardicnute refused to come out of Denmarke to take the gouernment vpon him But yet the authoritie of earle Goodwine who had the queene and the treasure of the realme in his kéeping staied the matter a certeine time professing himselfe as it were gardian to the yoong men the sonnes of the quéene
catch at all times an infinite deale of fish wherewith they liue and which maketh them also the more idle Being past this about sixtie miles we come vnto the Rona or Ron which some take for the last of the Hebrides distant as I said about fortie miles from the Orchades and one hundreth and thirtie from the promontorie of Dungishe The inhabitants of this I le are verie rude and irreligious the lord also of the soile dooth limit their number of housholds hauing assigned vnto them what numbers of the greater and smaller sorts of cattell they shall spend and inioie for their owne prouision they send the ouerplus yéerlie vnto him to Lewis Their cheefe paiments consist of a great quantitie of meale which is verie plentifull among them sowed vp in shéepes skins Also of mutton and sea foule dried that resteth ouer and aboue which they themselues do spend And if it happen that there be more people in the Iland than the lords booke or rate dooth come vnto then they send also the ouerplus of them in like maner vnto him by which means they liue alwaies in plentie They receiue no vices from strange countries neither know or heare of anie things doone else-where than in their owne Iland Manie whales are taken also vpon their coasts which are likewise replenished with seale and porpasse and those which are either so tame or so fierce that they abash not at the sight of such as looke vpon them neither make they anie hast to flie out of their presence Beyond this I le about 16 miles westward there is another called Suilscraie of a mile length void of grasse and without so much as heath growing vpon hir soile yet are there manie cliffes and rocks therein which are couered with blacke mosse whereon innumerable sorts of foules do bréed and laie their egs Thither in like sort manie doo saile from Lewissa to take them yoong in time of the yeare before they be able to flie which they also kill and drie in eight daies space and then returne home againe with them and great plentie of fethers fathered in this voiage One thing is verie strange and to be noted in this Iland of the Colke foule which is little lesse than a goose and this kind commeth thither but once in the yeare to wit in the spring to laie hir egs and bring vp hir yoong till they be able to shift for themselues then they get them awaie togither to the sea and come no more vntill that time of the yéere which next insueth At the same season also they cast their fethers there as it were answering tribute to nature for the vse of hir mossie soile wherein it is woonderfull to sée that those fethers haue no stalkes neither anie thing that is hard in them but are séene to couer their bodies as it were wooll or downe till breeding time I saie wherein they be left starke naked The Orchades whose first inhabitants were the Scithians which came from those Iles where the Gothes did inhabit as some sparks yet remaining among them of that language doo declare lie partlie in the Germaine and partlie in the Calidon seas ouer against the point of Dunghisbie being in number eight and twentie or as other saie thirtie one yet some saie thirtie thrée as Orosius but Plinie saith fortie and now belonging to the crowne of Scotland as are the rest whereof héeretofore I haue made report since we crossed ouer the mouth of the Solueie streame to come into this countrie Certes the people of these Islands reteine much of their old sparing diets and therevnto they are of goodlie stature tall verie comelie healthfull of long life great strength whitish colour as men that feed most vpon fish sith the cold is so extreame in those parts that the ground bringeth foorth but small store of wheate and in maner verie little or no fuell at all wherewith to warme them in the winter and yet it séemeth that in times past some of these Ilands also haue béene well replenished with wood but now they are without either trée or shrub in stéed whereof they haue plentie of heath which is suffered to grow among them rather thorough their negligence than that the soile of it selfe will not yéeld to bring foorth trées bushes For what store of such hath beene in times past the roots yet found and digged out of the ground doo yéeld sufficient triall Otes they haue verie plentifullie but greater store of barleie wherof they make a nappie kind of drinke and such indéed as will verie readilie cause a stranger to ouershoot himselfe Howbeit this may be vnto vs in lieu of a miracle that although their drinke be neuer so strong they themselues so vnmeasurable drinkers as none are more yet it shall not easilie be séene saith Hector that there is anie drunkard among them either frantike or mad man dolt or naturall foole meet to weare a cockescombe This vnmeasurable drinking of theirs is confessed also by Buchanan who noteth that whensoeuer anie wine is brought vnto them from other soiles they take their parts thereof aboundantlie He addeth moreouer how they haue an old bole which they call S. Magnus bole who first preached Christ vnto them of farre greater quantitie than common boles are and so great that it may séeme to be reserued since the Lapithane banket onelie to quaffe and drinke in And when anie bishop commeth vnto them they offer him this bole full of drinke which if he be able to drinke vp quite at one draught then they assure themselues of good lucke and plentie after it Neuerthelesse this excesse is not often found in the common sort whom penurie maketh to be more frugall but in their priests and such as are of the richer calling They succour pirats also and verie often exchange their vittels with their commodities rather for feare and want of power to resist their Ilands lieng so scattered than for anie necessitie of such gains as they doo get by those men for in truth they thinke themselues to haue little need of other furniture than their owne soiles doo yéeld and offer vnto them This is also to be read of the inhabitants of these Ilands that ignorance of excesse is vnto the most part of them in stéed of physicke and labour and trauell a medicine for such few diseases as they are molested and incombred withall In like sort they want venemous beasts cheefelie such as doo delight in hotter soile and all kinds of ouglie creatures Their ewes also are so full of increase that some doo vsuallie bring foorth two three or foure lambes at once whereby they account our anelings which are such as bring foorth but one at once rather barren than to be kept for anie gaine As for wild and tame foules they haue such plentie of them that the people there account them rather a burthen to their soile than a benefit to their tables they haue
as are committed to the same and whervnto the greatest riuers God wot are nothing comparable I would here make mention of sundrie bridges placed ouer this noble streame of which that of London is most chieflie to be commended for it is in maner a cōtinuall street well replenished with large and statelie houses on both sides and situat vpon twentie arches whereof ech one is made of excellent free squared stone euerie of them being thréescore foot in heigth and full twentie in distance one from another as I haue often viewed In like maner I could intreat of the infinit number of swans dailie to be séene vpon this riuer the two thousand wherries and small boats whereby thrée thousand poore watermen are mainteined through the cariage and recariage of such persons as passe or repasse from time to time vpon the same beside those huge tideboats tiltbotes and barges which either carrie passengers or bring necessarie prouision from all quarters of Oxfordshire Barkeshire Buckinghamshire Bedfordshire Herfordshire Midlesex Essex Surrie and Kent vnto the citie of London But for somuch as these things are to be repeated againe in the particular description of London annexed to his card I surceasse at this time to speake anie more of them here as not lingering but hasting to performe my promise made euen now not yet forgotten and in performance whereof I thinke it best to resume the description of this noble riuer againe into my hands and in adding whatsoeuer is before omitted to deliuer a full and perfect demonstration of his course How and where the said streame ariseth is alreadie with sufficiencie set downe noting the place to be within a mile of Tetburie whereof some doo vtterlie mislike bicause that rill in summer drouths is oft so drie that there is little or no water at all séene running aboue ground in the same For this cause the therefore manie affirme the verie head of Isis to come from the poole aboue Kemble Other confound it with the head of the Cirne or Chirne called in Latine Corinium that riseth aboue Coberleie For my part I follow Leland as he dooth the moonke of Malmesburie which wrote the historie intituled Eulogium historiarum who searched the same of set purpose and pronounced with Leland although at this present that course be verie small and choked vp as I heare with grauell and sand Procéeding therefore from the head it first of all receiueth the Kemble water called the Coue which riseth aboue Kemble towne goeth by Kemble it selfe vnto Poole and Somerford and then accompanieth the Thames vnto Canes Ashton Canes and Howston holding on in one chanell vntill they méet with the Chirne the next of all to be described The Chirne is a faire water arising out of the ground aboue Coberleie from whence it runneth to Cowleie Cowlesburne Randcome and so into the Isis on the left side aboue Crekelade These thrée waters being thus vnited and brought into one chanell within a little space of the head of Isis it runneth on by Crekelade beneath which towne it receiueth the Rhe descending from Elcombe Escot Redburne Widhill at the fall into Isis or not far off ioineth with another that runneth west of Purton by Braden forrest c. Next of all our Isis méeteth with the Amneie on the left hand which comming from aboue Holie roode Amneie runneth by Downe Amneie and finallie into the Isis a little aboue Iseie In like sort I read of another that méeteth withall on the right hand aboue Iseie also which so far as I can call to remembrance commeth from about Orifield and falleth so into our Isis that they run as one vntill they come at the Colne although not so nakedlie and without helpe but that in this voiage the maine streame dooth crosse one water that descendeth from Swindon and going also by Stratton toward Seuingham is it selfe increased with two rils by the waie whereof one commeth from Liddenton by Wambreie as I haue béene informed The Colne is a faire riuer rising by north neere to Witchington from thence goeth to Shiptons Compton Abdale Wittenton Yarneworth Colne Deanes and Colne Rogers Winston Biberie Colne Alens Quenington Faireford and west of Lachelade into the riuer Isis which hereabout on the southside also taketh in another whereof I find this remembrance The Isis being once past Seuingham crosseth a brooke from southest that mounteth about Ashbirie and receiuing a rill from by-west that commeth from Hinton beneath Shrineham it afterward so diuideth it selfe that the armes therof include Inglesham and by reason that it falleth into the Isis at two seuerall places there is a plesant Iland producted whereof let this suffice Being past Lechelade a mile it runneth to saint Iohns bridge the reabout méeteth with the Leche on the left hand This brooke whereof Lechlade taketh the name a towne wherevnto one péece of an old vniuersitie is ascribed which it did neuer possesse more than Crekelade did the other riseth east of Hampnet frō whence it goeth to north Lech Estenton Anlesworth east Lech south Thorpe Farendon so into the Isis. From hence this famous water goeth by Kenskot toward Radcote bridge taking in the rill that riseth in an od péece of Barkeshire and runneth by Langford and being past the said bridge now notable through a conspiracie made there sometimes by sundrie barons against the estate it is not long yer it crosse two other waters both of them descending from another od parcell of the said countie whereof I haue this note giuen me for my further information There are two fals of water into Isis beneath Radcote bridge wherof the one commeth from Shilton in Barkeshire by Arescote blacke Burton and Clarrefield The other also riseth in the same péece and runneth by Brisenorton vnto Bampton and there receiuing an armelet from the first that breake off at blacke Burton it is not long yer they fall into Isis and leaue a pretie Iland After these confluences the maine course of the streame hasteth by Shifford to Newbridge where it ioineth with the Winrush The Winrush riseth aboue Shieburne in Glocestershire from whence it goeth to Winrush cōming by Barrington Burford Widbrooke Swinbecke castell Witneie Duckington Cockthorpe Stanlake it méeteth with the Isis west by south of Northmore From hence it goeth beneath Stanton Hartingcourt and Ensham betwéene which and Cassinton it receiueth as Leland calleth it the Bruerne water It riseth aboue Limington and going to Norton in the Marsh and through a patch of Worcestershire vnto Euenlode betweene it and the foure shirestones it taketh in a rill called Come comming by the long and the little Comptons After this also it goeth by Bradwell Odington and so to Bleddenton aboue which towne it taketh in the Rolrich water that issueth at two heads in the hils that lie by west of little Rolrich and ioine aboue Kenkeham and Church hill From thence