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A50824 The new state of England under Their Majesties K. William and Q. Mary in three parts ... / by G.M. Miege, Guy, 1644-1718? 1691 (1691) Wing M2019A; ESTC R31230 424,335 944

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each of these Towns Lanceston Liskerd Liskil or Liswithie● Truro Bodmin H●lston Saltash Camelford We● and East Lowe Grampond Penrin Tregny B●●ney S. Ives Fouay S. Germains S. Michae● Newport S. Mawes and Kellington When this County was under the Earls o● Cornwal they gave great Immunities and Li●erties to those that workt in the Mines And when this Earldom reverted to the Crown in King Edwards Time he gave it to his Son surnamed the Black Prince advancing that Title to that of a Dukedom and erected a Lord War●●en of the Stanneries to have the Government thereof Since which time the eldest Sons of the Kings of England whether it be by Birth or by the Death of their elder Brothers are ipso facto Dukes of Cornwal as they are Earls of Chester without any Creation being at age to sue their Livery how young soever Of the Isles of Scilly West of Cornwal about 24 miles distant ●ies a Cluster of small Islands called by us the Isles of Scilly by the Dutch Sorlings and by the ancient Greeks Hesperides from their Western Situation Cassiterides from the Tin-Mines they found amongst them They are reckoned to be 145 in Number most of 'em very fruitful in Corn and Pasturage and plentifully stored with Conies Cranes Swans He●ons and other wild Fowl Scilly which communicates its Name to the rest was formerly counted the chief of these ●slands But now S. Maries has got the pre●minency being about 8 miles in circuit the biggest and most fertile of all having the conveniency of a large and commodious Harbour and fortified with a strong Castle built in the Reign of Q. Elizabeth These Islands after the Romans had forsaken their Holds in Britain returned again into the power and possession of the Natives From whom it was subdued and added to this Crown by Athelstane the eighth King of England and since that time governed as a part of Cornwal CHAP. VII Of Cumberland Derbyshire and Devonshire Cumberland CVMBERLAND is a Maritime County in the North-West Parts of England Bounded on the East by Northumberland and Westmorland on the West by the Irish Sea on the North by Scotland on the South by Westmorland and Lancashire It s Length from North to South is about 5● miles its Breadth from East to West some thing less than 40. The Whole divided no● into Hundreds but Wards five in Number wherein 58 Parishes and 15 Market Towns This Country is generally Mountainous and some of the Hills both very high and stee● Those of most note are Skiddaw Haraknot Black coum and Wry-nose On the Top of this last on the high Way-side are placed 3 stones caled the Shire-stones standing within a foot o● each other one in this County another i● Westmorland and the third in Lancashire As for Rivers and Meres here is abundance ●● them the principal River known by the Nam● of Eden Here the Air is pretty sharp and piercing though the Country be something sheltered b● the Northern Hills And as hilly as this Country is yet the Hil● thereof are not so barren but that they feed great Flocks of Sheep and other Cattel whilst ●ts fruitful Valleys bear good Crops of Corn and its rich Meadows excellent Pasture The Sea and Rivers on the other side strive ●n a manner to furnish it with plenty of Fish and wild Fowl And which is remarkable here they have Muscles that bear a sort of Pearl But besides Rivers here are a great many Meers or Lakes yielding great plenty of Fish but chiefly Vlles Water bordering both upon Cumberland and Westmorland In the Bowels of the Earth not only Coals for Fewel but also Lead and Copper are found in great plenty Of all the Counties in England this shews the most Roman Antiquities The principal of which is the Picts Wall a prodigious Stone-wall built by the Romans for their security against the Incursion of the raging Picts the track whereof in many places is yet to be seen This Wall was 8 foot broad and 12 high reaching cross the Country from Carlisle to Newcastle that is from Sea to Sea at least 80 miles Thus it ascended and descended over great Crags and high Hills with Watch-Towers erected at every thousand Paces in which Souldiers were kept for its Defence At Salkeld on the Eden is a Trophy of Victory erected called by the Inhabitants Long Meg and her Daughters This Monument consists of ●7 Stones each 10 foot above ground and one of them namely Long Meg is 15 foot high Carlisle the chief Place of this County bears from London North-North-West and is distant from it 235 miles thus From London to Buckingham 44 for the particulars of which I refer you to Buckinghamshire to Coventry 30 more from thence to Lichfield 20 to Sto● 16 more thence to Warington 32 to ●an●●ster 45 to Kendall 16 more and from thence to Carlisle 32. A City pleasantly seated on the South Bank of the River Eden within few miles of its fa● into the Sea being watered besides East an● West with two lesser Rivers the Pettrel an● Canda at their fall into the Eden So that it i● in a manner surrounded with three Rivers except towards the South This is a Town o● great Antiquity flourishing even in the time o● the Romans upon whose Departure it suffered much by the Scots and Picts Afterward being utterly defaced by the Danes it lay dejected for about 200 years till William Ruf●● rebuilt it After him Henry the First hi● Brother and Successor made it a Bishops See Thus by degrees it recovered it self being now a fine City well inhabited and a Place of good Trade chiefly for Fustians It is begirt with fine Walls fortified with a Castle and Cittade● beautified with a Cathedral of curious Workmanship and dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom at this time injoy'd by the Right Honourable Edward Howard Earl of Carlisle c. Derived to him from his Father Charles Howar● created Earl of Carlisle by King Charles II. Anno 1661. And the said Charles Son and He●● of Sir William Howard was great Grand-chil● of the Lord William Howard third Son of Thomas Duke of Norfolk In the Year 1663. h● was sent Embassador Extraordinary by the sai● King Charles to the Courts of Moscovy Sweden and Denmark And some Years after h● was sent again with the same Character t● the King of Sweden to whom he carried the Garter The other Market Towns are Egremont Sat. Ravenglas Sat. Keswick Sat. Alston-Moor Sat. Abbey-holm Sat. Cockermouth Mund. Perth Tue. Wigton Tue. Brampton Tue. Bootle Wedn. White-Haven Thu. Ireby Thu. Kirkswald Thu. Longtown Thu. Amongst which Perith or Penrith seated between Eimont a River on the South-side and Lowther another River on the West is counted the second Town of note in this County being large well built and inhabited by Tradesmen but Tanners especially Cockermouth a goodly Town is so called from its Situation on the River Cocker near its fall into the Derwent by which two
as you may see in Essex and 12 from thence to Ipswich This is one of the best and most thriving Towns in England seated in the South-East Parts of the County on the Banks of the Orwell about 20 miles from its fall into the Sea A Place of great Antiquity formerly walled about by a Rampire of Earth which in the Year 991 was thrown down by the Danes who grievously harassed these Parts and some years after came with such a fury that they left scarce any thing of Ipswich but the Ruins of its Buildings But that Storm being over it began in the Normans Time to recover it self So that at this present whether we consider its Extent Populousness or Trade it yields to very few Cities in England It reaches a mile in length and above a mile in breath with no less than 12 Parish Churches which shews its Populousness Within that Compass are several fair Buildings both publick and private and among those the Place of Judicature a free School with the Conveniency of a good Library and for the Relief of the Poor an Hospital And as for Cleanliness 't is counted next to Bristol one of the cleanliest Towns in England It s chief Trade consists in the Manufacture of Cloth both Linnen and Woollen besides Fishing and Ship-building For Provisions c. it has 3 Markets a Week Wednesdays Fridays and Saturdays And to conclude it is of some note for being the Birth-place of Cardinal Wolsey who began here to build a stately Colledge bearing his Name to this day The same gives the Title of Viscount to his Grace the Duke of Grafton The other Market-Towns are Orford Mun. Hadleigh Mun. Lavenham Tue. Mendlesham Tue. Halesworth Tue. Bury Wedn. Iestoft Wedn. Woodbridge Wedn. Haveril Wedn. Bilston Wedn. Needham Wedn. Stow. Market Thu. Tansdale Thu. Saxmundsham Thu. Swold Thu. Buddesdale Thu. Bungay Thu. Newmarket Thu. Iksworth Frid. Mildenhall Frid. Clare Frid. Neyland Frid. Debenham Frid. Dunwich Sat. Eye Sat. Sudbury Sat. Framlingham Sat. Beckles Sat. Alborough Sat. Among which Bury or S. Edmunds Bury is the most remarkable being so called from King Edmund the Martyr here interred Who for not renouncing the Christian Faith was shot to death at Hoxon by the Danes and his Body stuck by degrees with Arrows In this Town was erected the first Christian Church by Sigebert King of the East-Angles in which King Edmund was buried And in Memory of him here was erected a most stately Abbey of which and the Town it self take this Description from an ancient Author The Sun says he has not seen a Town more finely or delicately seated upon the East Ascent of a Hill with a River running on the East side Nor a more stately Abbey incomparable either for Magnificence or Revenues in whose prospect appeareth rather a City than a Monastery So many Gates it has for entrance and many of them Brass so many Towers and above all a most glorious Chuch Upon which attend three others standing all in the same Church-yard all of them very fine and of curious Artifice The Town at present do's consist of two Parish-Churches the Houses pretty well built the Market-hill Fair-stead and Corn-Cross spacious and handsom And for what remains of the Abbey it self in whose Yard stands an old Shire-House 't is far more majestick than any other Ruins of its kind The Market is of special note for the extraordinary Quantities of Corn brought to it for which 't is usually the Standard of the Country Lastly not far from this Town was that great Battel fought against King Henry the Second where this King had the good fortune to overthrow Robert Earl of Leicester with his Rabble of Flemings who joyned with the rebellious Son of King Henry the Earl himself and his Wife being taken Prisoners Stow-Market and Needham are both seated upon the Orwell The first as it were in the Center of the County having a fair Prospect down the River Eastward 'T is a large and beautifull Town graced with a spacious Church and its Steeple adorned with a huge and lofty Pinnacle not easy to be parallelled The grand Trade of this Town is in Tammeys and other Norwich Stuffs this being the only Town in Suffolk considerable for such Things Needham an ominous Name drives still a Trade but less than formerly in the Suffolk blue and broad Cloths for Russia Turky and orher Countries Which creates spinning Work for the poorer sort of Women whilst others get a Livelyhood by making of Bone-lace Debenham and Woodbridge are on the River Deben The last a large Town seated on the East-side of a sandy Hill watered with several Streams and having a pleasant Prospect down the River Deben which about 12 miles lower discharges it self into the Sea Here is a fair Church with several Monuments in it In the midst of its Market-Place is also a fair Pile of brick in a Chamber whereof are held the Quarter-Sessions for the Liberty of S. Ethelred and Audry The Market well traded unto especially for Hemp. In this Town are four or five good Docks for building of Ships most of 'em well imploy'd and noted among Seamen for good Workmanship The Inhabitants for their part drive a considerable Trade by Sea for which they are furnished with several Ships of burden And the principal Commodities they deal in are Butter Cheese Pouldavis Sackcloth Planks c. besides their refining of Salt Orford a few miles East and by South from Woodbridge is seated between the River Ore on the East and a smaller Stream on the West within two miles from the Sea Here is a Church well mounted but unsightly within and hard by it the Ruins of a high close-built Castle Which together with the Church-Steeple are good Directions to Seamen as the Light-house at the Ness is by night In the Reign of Henry the Second say's Sir Richard Baker there was taken near Orford a Fish in the Shape of a Man which was kept in the Castle above 6 months This Fish eat all manner of Meat but delighted chiefly in Fish An Author that comments upon it says very seriously that he spoke not one Word and Reason good for it was a Fish and that the People brought him sometimes to Church but he never shewed any Sign of Adoration which is no wonder of a Fish At length for want of looking to this man-Man-Fish stole into the Sea and was never more seen because I guess the Water was his Element But here is something more admirable On the narrow stony Beach that shoots Southerly betwixt the Town and the Sea 't is said that in the Year 1555 when there was a great Dearth there sprang up among the Meer-shingle such Quantities of Pease that the People gathered of 'em above 100 Quarters which both abated the price of Corn and preserved many from famishing And at the South Point of it there still comes up yearly certain course gray Pease and good Coleworts out of the Stone-heaps Alborough
Breadth from East to West 32. The Who● divided into six Hundreds wherein 61 Parishe● and 26 Market-Towns The Number of Parish● but small in so large a quantity of Ground but that there are many Chappels of Ease equal to Parishes elsewhere for Multitudes of People Here the Air is sharp thin and piercing seldom troubled with Fogs And the Inhabitants accordingly are healthfull comely strong and long-lived not subject to many Diseases The Soil differs much according to its different nature and situation some Parts being Mountainous and of the Champain Country some very fruitfull some Mossy and the rest Moorish The Champain Country is very good for Wheat and Barley but that which lies at the bottom of the Hills is best for Oats From the Mosses which are not unlike the Irish Bogs some of them many Miles in Compass the common People get Turves for their Firing And sometimes they dig up Trees out of them which serve both for Building and Fewel Cambden seems to be of Opinion that they are subterraneous Trees growing under Ground as some other Plants do The Mountainous Part which lies Eastward is full of stony craggy and barren Hills bare of Wood and the Habitation of Foxes Conies Otters c. Amongst these Hills some are of a prodigious height especially Pendle-Hill on the top whereof grow's a peculiar Plant called Cloudsberry as coming from the Clouds But one thing besides is remarkable in this Hill that whenever the Top of it is covered with a Mist 't is an infallible Sign of Rain The Country in general is well watered with Rivers the chief whereof are the Mersey the Rible and the Lon all three running from East to West into the Irish Sea The Mersey Waters the South Parts and serves for a Boundary betwixt this County and Cheshire the Rible waters the middle and the Lon the North Parts Besides these Rivers and many others of less note here are several great Meers or Lakes as Merton and Winder or Wimander Meer This last divides part of Lancashire from Westmorland reaching about 10 miles in length and 3 or 4 in breadth It has as most Lakes in the North a clear pebbly Bottom whence the Saying that this Lake is all paved with Stone And it breeds great store of Fish particularly Trouts Pikes Pearches Eels and Skellies But there 's one sort of Fish peculiar to it and not to be found elsewhere except in Vlles Water another Lake bordering both upon Cumberland and Westmorland Charre is the Name of it and 't is a dainty Fish whereof many Pies are yearly sent abroad for Presents In short tho' this Country in general cannot be called a fruitfull Country yet what is good of it yields abundance of good Grass and Corn the fairest Oxen in England and in general all sorts of Provisions Fish and Fowl particularly here 's great plenty of and in the River Lon near Cockerfand Abbey is great store of Salmon To make Linnen here grows a great deal of Flax for Fewel the Country yields not only fat Earth but good Coals and for Building Quarries of good Stone Lancaster the Sh●re Town bears from London North-West and by North and is distant therefrom by common computation 187 miles thus From London to Stafford 104 for the particulars whereof I refer you to Staffordshire Then from Stafford to Stone 10 to Newcastle 6 more thence to Warington 20 to Wigan 14 more to Preston 14 more then to Garstang 10 and to Lancaster 15 more A Town pleasantly seated in a good Soil on the South-side of the ●iver Lon near its fall into the Sea From which River it came to be called Loncaster since turn'd into Lancaster as from Lancaster the whole County took the Name of Lancashire The Town not very well peopled nor much frequented There are in it several fair and long Streets from the Length whereof this Town I suppose might be called Longovicus by the Emperor Antonine And yet there is but one Parish-Church which indeed is large and fair It stands on the side of a Hill on the top of which is the Castle now made use of for the County Goal both for Debtors and Malefactors and for keeping the Assizes for the County Besides the Church and Castle two of the chief Ornaments of this Town here 's a fair Stone-Bridge over the Lon supported by five Arches To which add the Market-house or Town-hall where the Mayor and his Brethren keep their Courts It s Market which is kept on Saturdays is commonly well furnished with all sorts of Provisions but Fish and among the rest Salmon especially Lastly this Town is of sufficient Fame in the Annals of England for those noble Persons which have successively born the Titles of Earls and Dukes of it the greatest Princes in their time for Revenues of any Subjects in Christendom Of which House there have been four Kings of England all under the Name of Henry viz. Henry the fourth the fifth the sixth and the seventh The last by marrying with Elizabeth Daughter and Heir to Edward IV. of the House of York did happily unite the two Houses of York and Lancaster Whose Competition for the Crown of England under the Names of Red and White Roses had caused more Blood-shed than the Conquest of France by the English The Market-Towns of this County besides Lancaster are Manchester Sat. Leverpool Sat. Clitheroe Sat. Dalton Sat. Blackborn Mund. Poulton Mund. Cartmill Mund. Hornby Mund. Hawkshead Mund. Wigan Mund. Frid. Rochdale Tue. Chorley Tue. Ormskirk Tue. Kirkham Tue. Prescot Tue. Coln Wedn. Haslington Wedn. Warington Wedn. Preston Wedn. Frid. Sat. Bury Thu. Garstang Thu. Vlverston Thu. Besides Leigh and ●reat Eccleston whose Market-days I am ignorant of Manchester is seated upon a stony Hill in the South-East Parts of the County between the Rivers Irk and Irwell both which empty themselves not far off into the Mersey This Town called by Antonine the Emperour Mantunium was a Station of the Romans And it is to this day a Town much beyond Lancaster in beauty and populousness It s chief Ornaments are the Colledge and the Market-Place but above all the Collegiate Church beautified with a small Quire of excellent Workmanship Honoured besides with the Title of an Earldom in the person of the Right Honourable Charles Montague the present Earl of Manchester derived to him from his great Grandfather Henry Montague Viscount Mandeville created Earl of Manchester by King Charles I. Anno 1625. being then Lord Treasurer and President of the Council and afterwards Lord Privy Seal And lastly 't is a noted Place for its Linnen and Woollen Cloths as also for its Cottons which are held in great esteem Leverpool is the next Place of chief note in this County T is an excellent Sea-port commodiously seated at the fall of the River Mersey into the Sea where it affords a safe Harbour for Ships and a convenient Passage into Ireland To the immortal Praise of the Family of the Mores of Banck-hall
for the Education of Youth a free School and for decay'd Gentlemen a well indowed Hospital But the chief Beauty of it as heretofore so now is a most stately and magnificent Castle the Seat of Sir Fulk Grevill the late Lord Brooks by whom it was repaired at his great cost and charges In short this Town injoy's a good Trade chiefly for Mault and the rather as being the Place where the Assizes and general Sessions for the County are kept It s Market which is kept on Saturdays is great and well furnished with all sorts of Provisions But that which has added the most Lustre to this Town is the honourary Titles wherewith it has been dignify'd for several Ages Of Earl first in the person of Henry de Newburg Created Earl of Warwick by Wisliam the Conquerour Anno 1076 and continued in five more of his name viz. Roger William Waleran Henry and Thomas de Newburg From whom it passed through several Families either by Marriage or Bloud allied to the former Till at last the Title of Earl was by King Henry VI turned into that of Duke in the person of Henry Beauchamp who was made and crowned King of the Isles of Wight Jersey and Garnsey and soon after created Duke of Warwick 'T is true the Title of Duke went no further and that of Earl was renewed in the person of Richard Nevil who married Ann the Duke's Sister From him it went to George Duke of Clarence who married Ann Daughter of Richard Nevil and from George to Edward Plantagenet his Son From these it came to two Dud eys successively to wit John and Ambrose descended from the Lady Margaret Daughter of Richard Beauchamp Earl of Warwick And in the Year 1618. King James I. conferred it upon Robert Lord Rich of Leeze in whose Line it continued till Charles his great Grandson died without Issue Upon whose Death Robert Rich Earl of Holland his Cousin german succeeded in the Earldom of Warwick and so injoy'd both Titles Which fell by his Death to his Son the Right Honourable Edward Rich the present Earl of Warwick Near Warwick is a Cliff most delectably seated among Groves and fresh Streams and called Guy-Cliff from the Hercules of England Guy of Warwick Who having left off his noble and valiant Exploits betook himself as the Story say's to this Place where he led a kind of Hermetical Life and built a Chappel wherein he was interred But though Warwick be the County-Town and a considerable Place upon other accounts yet here is another of greater importance which therefore doth deserve a particular Description in this place before we proceed to the List of the Market-Towns And that is Coventry a City so called from an old Convent or Monastery founded by King Canute It stands upon a small Stream called Sherborn which joyning with another Stream runs not far from thence into the River Avon 'T is a fair neat and large City beautify'd with handsom Houses and spacious Streets besides a Cross of curious Workmanship and its two Churches of St. Michael and of the Holy Trinity that are loftily built It was formerly begirt with a fine Wall with 13 Gates giving entrance into the City and what with the Convent and the translating the See Episcopal from Lichsield hither it grew exceeding rich and wealthy 'T is true now it has neither Convent nor Episcopal See more than in the Ruin and Title and yet it does still continue its old Wealth being the best City for Trade in all these Parts and more than ordinarily frequented for an Inland Town Among other its Manufactures here are great quanti●ies of Cloths made and vended And its Market for Provisions is kept on Fridays It belonged once unto the Earls of Chester and after wards by many Conveniances to John of Eltham Earl of Cornwal whereby it became annexed to that Earldom Nor did it lose any thing but rather gain much by that Annexation Henry the VI laying unto it several adjacent Towns and Villages and making it with them a County Corporate clearly distinct from that of Warwick Thus Coventry though within the Confines of Warwickshire became exempted from its Jurisdiction And in the very first Year of the Reign of William the Conquerour it was honoured with the Title of an Earldom in the Person of Edwin a Saxon with whom the Title died and lay buried till the Reign of King James I when George Villiers the late Duke of Buckingham's Father was created Duke of Buckingham and Earl of Coventry Anno 1623. The other Market-Towns are Shipton Sat. Rugby Sat. Tamworth Sat. Nun-Eaton Sat. Henley Mun. Southam Mun. Sutton Cofield Mun. Aulcester Tue. Kyneton Tue. Atherston Tue. Coleshill Wedn. Stratford Thu. Bromicham Thu. Among which Stratford seated upon the Avon is one of the prsncipal it being a good Town well inhabited and driving a good Trade of Malt. It contains two Parish Churches and has over the River a fair Stone-bridge with several Arches Tamworth stands part in this County and part in Staffordshire where you will find it described Aulcester is seated on the Confluence of the Alne and the Arrow and not far from their fall into the Avon Shipton on the Stower Coleshill on the Cole Kyneton on a small River that runs into the Avon Rugby upon the Avon Nun-Eaton and Atherston near the Auker Henley on the Alne and Bromicham on the Rea. Among which Henley is called Henley in Arden to distinguish it from Henley in Oxfordshire Bromicham is a large and well built Town very populous and much resorted unto particularly noted few years ago for the counterfeit Groats made here and from hence dispersed all over the Kingdom It drives a great Trade of Iron and Steel Wares Saddles and Bridles which find good vent at London Ireland and other Parts But besides those Market-Towns there are three Places Shughury Lemington and Menham Regis of note for some particular Things The first for the Astroits or Star-Stones found about it Lemington for two Springs of Water that issue out there within a stride of each other but of different taste and operation the one being fresh and the other salt though at a great distance from the Sea Menham Regis for a Spring the Water whereof looks and tasts like Milk If drunk with Salt it loosens if with Sugar it binds the Body Said to be Sovereign against the Stone good to cure green Wounds Ulcers and Imposthumes and apt to turn Wood into Stone To conclude this County which formerly was part of the Kingdom of Mercia and its Inhabitants part of the Cornavii as the Romans called them is now in the Diocese of Lichsield Out of it are elected besides the two Knights of the Shire but four Members to sit in Parliament Viz. 2 by Warwick and 2 by Coventry Westmorland WESTMORLAND one of the worst Counties in England lies in the North-West and is called Westmorland as lying among Moors and Fells or high Hills for the most part unmanured
England into Counties there is a common way of dividing it but into Two Parts North and South that is all the Counties on the North and South-side of the River Trent Which way is followed by the Justices in Eyre of the Forest and likewise by the Kings at Arms. Another Division there is relating to the publick Administration of Justice by the Itinerant of Judges And that is into Six Circuits of which I shall give a particular Account in my second Part. Lastly for the Church Government England is divided first into two Provinces or Archbishopricks namely Canterbury and York and these two Provinces into 22 Diocesses or Bishopricks these into Archdeaconries Archdeaconries into Rural Deanries and these last into Parishes The Number whereof setting aside the 12 Counties of Wales amounts to near Ten Thousand CHAP. II. The Advantages of ENGLAND from its Situation in opposition to Inland Countries The natural Beauty of it A Description of its principal Rivers OF all the States of Europe there 's none more happy than ENGLAND whether we consider the Advantages of its Situation the Temperateness of its Air the Richness of its Soil the happy temper of its Inhabitants or the Blessed Constitution of its Government especially under their present Majesties As it is in a manner surrounded by the Sea it injoys Two great Advantages the One in Relation to foreign Trade and the Other in point of Security from forein Invasion In relation to forein Trade it lies open to all Parts of the World that are adjacent to the Sea either for the Exportation of home-bred or the Importation of foreign Commodities To which purpose as Nature has fenced its Sea-Coasts from the Irruptions and Inundations of the Sea with high Cliffs so she has furnished it with abundance of safe and capacious Harbours for the security of Ships As for a forein Invasion 't is certain that Islands of any great Importance are by Nature the most defensible Places and the least open to Conquests The Sea that fluid Element which surrounds them is such a Bar to their Enemies Attempts the Winds that govern it so fickle and uncertain the Charges of a Fleet and Land Army so vast the Preparations such as cannot be carried on with that speed and secrecy as for an Invasion by Land and the Difficulty of Landing so great in case of Opposition 'T is true no Continent perhaps was oftener Conquered than ENGLAND first by the Romans then by the Saxons afterwards by the Danes and last of all by the Normans But how was it done always by the help of some discontented or corrupted Party in the Island Thus Bericus a noble but disgusted Britain incouraged Claudius the Roman Emperour to stretch his Empire hither And Vortiger an Usurper of the British Throne called in the Saxons to his help who having got a footing here could not be so easily expelled as brought in In short it may be said England was never and can scarce be Conquered but by England especially since its happy Conjunction with Scotland and the Annexion of Wales As to the late Revolution 't is self evident that the chief Part of the Nation had a hand in it and as it proved we may justly call it not an Invasion as King James affected to do but a wonderful and signal Deliverance To those Two great Advantages of Trade and Security which England does injoy from its Situation near the Sea let us add the Prospect it has from the Sea-Coast of the wonderful Ocean one of the three great Antiquities of the World and the plentiful Variety of Fish and Sea-Fowl c. it affords to this Island But that which raises my Admiration of ENGLAND is the Beauty of it being generally a flat and open Country not overgrown with wild and unwholsom Forests nor dreadful high Mountains What Hills it has are generally very gentle and pleasant and raised as it were to give a charming Prospect to the Eye as its Forests seem only contrived for Variety and the pleasure of Hunting But one Thing there is which adds much to the Beauty of it and that is its excellent Verdure Which by reason of the mildness of the Air even in the Winter-Season exceeds in duration of Time the most fruitful Places of Europe To which add the Concourse of so many Rivers which glide through this Country and strive to make it agreeable and fruitful They are reckoned in all 325 the chief whereof are these following Viz. The Thames The Medway The Severn The Ouse The Trent The Humber The Tees The Tine The Twede The Thames is a Compound of the Thame and Isis two Rivers the first whereof rises in Buckinghamshire the other near Cirencester in Glocestershire both joyning together into one Stream by Dorcester in Oxfordshire where it parts that County from Barkshire From whence taking its course Eastward with many Windings and Turnings it parts Buckinghamshire from Barkshire Middlesex from Surrey and Essex from Kent Where being swelled with the Influx of several lesser Rivers it discharges it self into the Sea watering by the way amongst other Towns Reading and Windsor in Barkshire Kingston and Southwark in Surrey London in Middlesex Barking in Essex and Gravesend in Kent A River the Water whereof is extraordinary wholsom the Stream exceeding gentle and the Tides very commodious for Navigation For the Sea flows gently up this River about 80 Miles almost as far as Kingston being 12 Miles by Land and 20 by Water above London The Medway is a Kentish River not so remarkable for the length of its Course as for the Depth of its Channel and therefore made use of for harbouring the Royal Navy It runs thorough Maidstone Rochester and Chatham a few Miles from whence it empties it self in the Mouth of the Thames This River loses it self under Ground and rises again at Loose not far from Cox-Heath The Severn rises in Montgomeryshire a County of North-Wales From whence it runs through Shropshire Worcestershire and Glocestershire where it does so expatiate it self that the Mouth of it is more like an Arm of the Sea than any part of a River It waters in its course Shrewsbury Worcester and Glocester the chief Towns of the foresaid three Counties and takes in by the way several Rivers of good note two Avons the Temd the Wye and the Vsk The Ouse has its source in the South-Borders of Northamptonshire From whence it runs through the Counties of Bucks Bedford Huntington Cambridge and Norfolk where it discharges it self into the Ocean watering in its Course Buckingham Bedford Huntington Ely and the Sea-Port of Lyn in Norfolk The River that runs through York has also the Name of Ouse being a Compound chiefly of these three Yorkshire Rivers the Swale the Youre and the Warfe And between Norfolk and Suffolk you will find the little Ouse which parting these Two Counties runs at last into the great Ouse The Trent which divides England into Two Parts North and South has its Rise
large Town seated upon two Rivers the Skerne and a Rivulet that runs there into it Over the first which falls within 2 miles into the Tees it has a fair Stone-Bridge Not far from hence at Oxenhall are 3 Pits called Hell-Kettles of a wonderful depth supposed to come of an Earthquake that hapned in the Year 1179. 'T is said of Bishop Tunstall of this Diocese that he took a Goose which he markt and put into one of the Pits and the same Goose was found afterwards in the River Tees Bernard Castle is seated in a Bottom on the River Tees and adjoyning to Marwood Park 'T is but an indifferent Town and of chief note for Stockings here made Bishop Aukland is pleasantly seated on the side of a Hill between the Ware over which it has a Bridge and a Rivulet that runs into it This is a neat Town and noted for its good Air. But that which adds much to its Reputation is its stately Castle the Bishops Summer Pallace beautifully repaired by Dr. Cosins the late Bishop of Durham and a fine Chappel raised by the same Bishop from its Ruins Sunderland is a Sea-Town on the Mouth of the River Ware Called Sunderland because by the Working of the Sea it is in a manner pulled from the rest of the Land it being at high Water invironed on all sides with the Sea This is a noted Place for its Sea-Coal Trade but chiefly for giving the Title of Earl first to Emanuel Lord Scrope of Bolton and Lord President of the North created Earl of Sunderland by King Charles I. Anno 1627. Upon whose Death without lawful Issue the Title was bestowed by the same King upon Henry Lord Spencer of Wormleighton in the Year 1643. Who being slain the same Year at the first Newberry Fight the Title fell to Robert his Son and Heir the present Earl of Sunderland Stainthorp or Staindrop ly's but 5 miles East-North-East from Bernard Castle among Parks and on a Rivulet that runs from thence into the Tees And not far from it is another Castle called Raby-Castle which King Canute gave to the Church of Durham with the Lands about it But besides the said Market-Towns here is in the South-East Parts Stockton and Billingham noted for their strong Ale And further Northward Hartlepool that stands upon a Neck of Land shooting forth into the Sea which surrounds it on all sides except Westward On the Mouth of the River Tine you will find Sheals where the New-Castle Coal-Fleet takes its Cargo A little higher stands Jarrow noted for being the Birth place of the Venerable Beda And over against Newcastle Gateshead or Gateside the Receptacle of those numerous Men that work in the Coal-pits Men that rake their mean Subsistence from the very Bowels of the Earth This County was formerly called St. Cuthberts Patrimony from S. Cuthbert the Raiser of Durham whose Episcopal See was removed hither from Lindisfarn or Holy Island on the Coast of Northumberland A Saint for whom several of the Saxon Kings and after them Canute the Dane had so great a Veneration that upon him and his Successors in that See was all the Country between Tees and Tine conferred by Alfred King of England Which his Donation was confirmed and in part increased by his Successors Edward Athelstan and Canute the Dane So fortified it was with Priviledges and Royal Grants that at the coming in of the Norman Conquerour the Bishop was reputed for a Count Palatine and did ingrave upon his Seal an armed Knight holding a naked Sword in one hand and in the other the Bishops Arms. Nay it was once adjudged in Law that the Bishop was to have all Forfeitures and Escheats within the Liberties as the King had without In short the Bishops hereof had the Royalty of Princes having their own Courts of Judicature both for Civil and Criminal Causes and covning their own Coin But these exorbitant Priviledges and Immunities were in part impaired by a Statute under Henry VIII and altogether with the Lands and whole Rights thereof conferred upon the Crown by Act of Parliament in the last Year of the Reign of Edward VI. To conclude when England was divided into seven Kingdoms this County was Part of that of Northumberland And the Inhabitants of it as well as those of most part of the North besides were called Brigantes by the ancient ●omans Out of it are elected besides the two Knights of the Shire but two Members to serve in Parliament for which Durham has the Right of Election Essex ESSEX another Maritime County has for its Bounds Eastward the German Ocean Westward Hartfordshire and Middlesex Northward the County of Suffolk and Southward the County of Kent This is a pretty large County being in Length about 45 miles in Breadth 36. The Whole divided into 20 Hundreds wherein 45 Parishes and 21 Market-Towns The same is abundantly irrigated both with great and small Rivers For besides the Thames which severs it from Kent the Stower from Suffolk and the Lea from Middlesex here is the Coln the Chelmer the Crouch and the Roding with several others in all which are great plenty of Fish Here the Air is very Temperate but down in the Hundreds towards the Sea-side it is very Aguish The Soil for the most part is good and in some Parts so fruitful that according to the Author of Englands Remarqnes after 3 Years Glebe of Saffron the Land for 18 years more will yield plenty of Barley without any Manuring with Dung or the like and then bear Saffron again One Acre of this Ground which is most in the North Part of the County will yield 80 or 100 weight of moist Saffron in a Year which being dried is valued 2. pound sterling It s chief Commodities besides Saffron as aforesaid are Cloths Stuffs Hops and the best of Oysters Colchester the chief Place of it bears from London North-East and is distant from it 43 miles by common Computation Viz. 10 from London to Rumford 5 more to Burntwood 10 from thence to Chelmsford and to Colchester 18 more A Town of great Antiquity and built as some Authors write by Coilus the British Prince 124 years after Christ's Birth But yet more Remarkable for giving birth to ●ucius Helena and Constantine the first Christian King Empress and Emperour in the World Seated it is upon the Rise of a Hill stretching it self from East to West and watered by the River Coln from whence probably it came to be called Colchester And as it is but 6 miles distant from the Sea so its Situation must needs be upon all accounts both pleasant and commodious 'T is a fair and well-built Town forti●●ed with an old Roman Wall and having six Gates of entrance besides 3 Posterns Towards the East stands an old Castle within the Ruins of a Trench containing about two Acres In short there were in it 14 Parish Churches several of which are now reduced to ruin But it is still a Place of good
handsom Town flands pleasantly among fertile Meadows near the Forest of Charwood on the Banks of the River Stowr over which it has a Bridge Lutterworth a goodly Town also beautified with a large and fair Church with a neat and lofty Spire-Steeple is seated in a good Soil on the River Swift which at a small distance from hence falls into the Avon in Warwickshire Of this Town the famous Wicless was Parson an okl Champion against the Corruptions and Errours of the Church of Rome This County now in the Diocese of Lincoln was part of the ancient Kingdom of Mercia in the Time of the Heptarchy and its Inhabitants with several of their Neighbours went among the ancient Romans under the Name of Coritani Out of it are elected besides the two Knights of the Shire but two Members of Parliament chosen by the Town of Leicester Lincolnshire LINCOLNSHIRE a large Maritime County is bounded on the East with the German Ocean on the West with the Counties of York Nottingham and Leicester on the North with the River Humber which parts it from Yorkshire on the South with the Counties of Cambridge Northampton and Rutland It contains in Length from North to South almost 60 miles in Breadth from East to West 35. The Whole divided into 3 Parts called Lindsey Kesteven and Holland And these 3 Divisions contain 30 Hundreds wherein 630 Parishes and 35 Market-Towns This Country being Fenny especially in the East and South Parts makes the Air something unhealthful because it is apt to be thick and foggy The Soil in the North and West Parts is exceeding pleasant and fertile stored with Pasturage Arable and Meadow Grounds But the East and South Parts that are full of Fenny Grounds and something brackish by reason of the Salt Waters that come in from the Sea through several Inlets are barren and unfit for Corn. 'T is true in recompence thereof there is such a plenty both of Fowl and Fish that no County in the Kingdom can compare with it And there goes a Story that at one draught with a Net 30●0 Mallards have been taken besides other sorts How true it is I am as yet to seek but am apt to think there 's one Cypher too much As for Rivers no County in England is better irrigated nor Rivers any where more plentifull of Fish Northward is the Humber which as I said before parts it from Yorkshire and Westward the Trent which severs Part of it from Nottinghamshire Cross the Country you will find the Witham River Southward the Weland and the Nen. That Part of the County which goes by the Name of Lindsey lies to the Northward and is so named from Lindissi the ancient Name of Lincoln according to Beda This Part is so surrounded with Water that it is an Island and its Extent so great in proportion to the rest that it takes up at least one half of the County Noted for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Robert Bertie the present Earl of Lindsey Lord Great Chamberlain of England Kesteven and Holland take up the South Parts from Lindsey Holland lying towards the Sea and Kesteven West from it Of Holland there has been 3 Earls Henry Robert and Edward Rich. The first created Earl of Holland by King James I. Anno 1624. Robert his Son succeeded not only in this Title but also in that of Earl of Warwick upon the Death of his Cousin-german Charles Rich Earl of Warwick who died without Issue So that both Titles are now injoyd by his Son and Heir the Right Honourable Edward Rich the present Earl of Warwick and Holland Lincoln the principal Place in this Shire and a Bishops See bears from London North by West and is distant from it by common Computation 103 miles thus Viz. from London to Huntington 48 miles for the Particulars whereof I refer you to Huntingtonshire from thence to Stilton 9 to Peterborough 5 more to Market-Deeping 8 to Sleaford 18 more and thence to Lincoln 15. A City seated on the side of a Hill the lower part whereof is watered by the River Witham over which there are several Bridges for the Conveniency of Passengers A Place of great Antiquity whose ancient ruinated Places are still an Argument of its former Greatness In the Time of the Romans 't was a Town of great strength and fame and in the Time of the Normans a Place of great Trading Whose flourishing Condition occasioned the Episcopal See then at Dorchester near Oxon to be removed hither But this City has gone through all the Calamities of Fire Sword and Earth-quake Which has so much weakned and impaired it that of 50 Churches it is said to have had for divine Worship there remains but 15 besides the Cathedral In the Time of the Saxons King Arthur drove away their Forces from this Place The like did Edmund Ironside to the Danes who had made sore havock thereof On the 5th of Sept. 1140. here was a great Battel fought between King Stephen and Maud the Empress in which the King was taken Prisoner and afterwards laid in irons in Bristol On the 19th of May 1217. here was another sore Battel fought betwixt King Henry III. and his disloyal Barons who stood for Lewis the Dauphin of France in which the King got the day But whatever Disasters and Calamities this City has gone through still 't is a large populous and well frequented Place Dignified not only with an Episcopal See whose Diocese to this day is the greatest of any in the Kingdom but also for many Ages with the Title of an Earldom Which having passed through severall Families with frequent Interruptions came at last to be in the possession of Edward Fiennes Lord Clinton who being Lord Admiral in Queen Elizabeth's Time was by her Majesty created Earl of Lincoln Anno 1565. From whom the Title is now devolved in a direct Line to the Right Honourable Edward Clinton the present Earl of Lincoln The Cathedral or Minster as now standing is one of the stateliest Piles in England and perhaps in Christendom high seated on a Hill and from thence discerned over all the Country In short this City is a County of it self whose Liberties extend about 20 miles in compass and is called the County of the City of Lincoln It s Market kept on Fridays is well served with Provisions and Country Commodities The other Market-Towns are Grantham Sat. Kirkton Sat. Thongcaster Sat. Waynfleet Sat. Horn-Castle Sat. Dunington Sat. Burton Sat. Bourn Sat. Spilsby Mun. Salsby Mun. Sleaford Mun. Market-Stanton Mun. Stamford Mund. Frid. Ganesborough Tue. Barton Tue. Market-Rasen Tue. Bullingbrook Tue. Spalding Tue. Alford Tue. Grinsby Wedn. Binbrook Wedn. Lowthe Wed. and Sat. Boston Wed. and Sat. Glamford Thu. Burgh Thu. Market-Deeping Thu. Folkingham Thu. Holbich Thu. Wragby Thu. Naverby Thu. Tatershall Frid. Saltfleet Crowland Barnwell Among which Stamferd in Kesteven Division and the hithermost Town of Lincolnshire is the most considerable Seated on both sides of the
Hundreds wherein 660 Parishes and 31 Market-Towns Which is an Argument of its Populousness Here the Air is sharp and piercing especially near the Sea and in the Champain Part which occasions a later Spring and Harvest The Soil in many Places but chiefly along the Sea-Coast which is a Champain Country affords plenty of Corn. The Heaths feed a World of Sheep and breed abundance of Conies And the Woodland Part serves for Grazing of Cattel yet not without Corn-ground The Sea and the Rivers besides that glide through this Country strive as it were to furnish it with their plenty of F●sh And among these besides those above-named viz. the two Ouses and the Waveney there are two of chief note called the Yare and the Thryn The Yare particularly noted for its great plenty of a certain Fish called Ruff whose body is all Prickled over the tail and fins spotted with black Specks This Fish eats tender and short as a Perch and is counted a wholsom Fish It delights in sandy Places and is rarely seen in any other River One Thing is observable of it that when the Fish is angry the fins stand up stiff and after its Anger is over they fall flat again In short the Soil of this Country according to the Variety of Places is of different nature In some Parts it is fat rank and full of moisture in others very light and sandy Yet so that one contributing to the other and the Sea giving help to both it is a very plentiful Country for Corn Sheep and Fish Norwich the chief Place hereof and a Bishops See bears from London North-East and by North and is distant therefrom 90 miles thus From London to Ware 20 to Barkway 11 more thence to Witle●ford-Bridge 10 and to New-Market 12 more from Newmarket to The●ford 16 to Attleborough 10 more thence to Windham 5 and to Norwich 6 more A City seated on the River Yare which runs thence to Yarmouth and over which it has several Bridges It was formerly the Seat of the East-Angles and then a Place of great splendour But it has since undergone so many Calamities by Sword and Famine by Fire and Pestilence that it is much it should prove to this day a fair large populous and well frequented City Insomuch that it ly's out a Mile and a half in length and half as much in breadth containing in that Circuit about 20 Parishes well walled about with several Turrets and 12 Gates for entrance but not without much waste Ground within it It s chief Buildings are the Cathedral beautified with a lofty Spire then the Bishops and the Duke of Norfolk's Pallaces the Market-House the Cross and the House of Correction made of free Stone and so well cemented that no Mortar is seen Here is also an Hospital where 100 poor Men and Women are maintained and the Ruins of an ancient Castle of the Saxons building In short here is so pleasant an Intermixture of the Houses with Trees that it may not improperly be called an Orchard in a City or a City in an Orchard the populousness of a City and the pleasure of the Country meeting here together Of some Note besides for giving the Title of Earl to his Grace the Duke of Norfolk Earl of Arundel Surrey and Norwich Finally this City do's injoy a great Trade but chiefly for its Stuffs Stockings and other Manufactures here made for the learning of which it is beholding to the Dutch that came to inhabit here It has three Markets a Week Wednesdays Fridays and Saturdays the first and last very great for all sorts of Provisions The other Market-Towns are Lyn Sat. Mund. Yarmouth Sat. Thetford Sat. Hingham Sat. New-Buckenham Sat. Swafham Sat. Downham Sat. Holt Sat. Burnham Sat. Cromere Sat. Repcham Sat. Alesham Sat. Worsted Sat. Sechy Mund. East-Herling Tue Fulcham Tue Caston Tue Harlston Wedn. Watton Wedn. North-Walsham Thu Attlebury Thu Fakenham Thu Windham Frid East-Derham Frid Diss Frid Snetham Frid Walsingham Frid Besides Southwold and Winfield two new Markets and Hickling whose Market-Days I am ignorant of ●yn formerly called Bishops Lyn as appertaining to the Bishops of Norwich till King Henry VIII gave it the Name of ●yn Regis or King's Lyn is seated in the Western Part of the Country upon the Banks of the Ouse near its fall into that Part of the Sea which is called the Washes Watered besides by two little Rivers that fall there into the Ouse which are passed over by about 15 Bridges A Town of good antiquity large and well built containing 3 Parish-Churches and for its Defence incompassed with a Wall and a good Ditch Well Inhabited by Merchants and Tradesmen who drive a considerable Trade and the more by reason of its commodious Haven Yet it is much eclipsed in its Trade to what it was formerly because of the stoppage of a Sluce upon the Ouse which do's so obstruct the Current of salt Water that the River is scarce navigable to Cambridge Nigh unto this Town on the other side of the Ouse is a little Marsh Country called Marsh-Land very subject to the Inundations of the Sea and therefore very moist and aguish But in recompence its Soil is exceeding fat and feed abundance of Cattel In this Marsh are seated several Towns but so destitute of fresh Water for houshold Use that many of 'em are fain to get a supply thereof at 4 miles distance About 3 miles from Lyn towards the Sea stands a decayed Town called Castle-Rising It s Decay occasioned by its Haven's being many years since choakt up with Sands whereby 't is become useless Which has done a Kindness to Lyn. Yarmouth the best Harbour in all this County and the Key of this Coast is seated at the Mouth of the River Yare from whence it is called Yarmouth A Town of good Strength as well by Nature as Art well built and pretty large and yet it has but one Church which is beautify'd with a lofty Spire The same is well inhabited and much resorted unto by Seamen affording a ready Passage to Holland and being a frequent Shelter to the New-castle Fleets when distressed by Weather Of special note besides for Herring-fishing in the Seas adjacent in the Month of September Which draws a great Concourse of People hither and makes the Town much richer all the Year after Lastly 't is dignified with the Title of Earl in the person of the Right Honourable William Paston the present Earl of Yarmouth Thetford is an Inland Town situate on the Confluence of the Thet and the little Ouse over wich it has a Bridge leading to Suffolk A Place of great Antiquity built out of the Ruins of the ancient City Sitomagus which was destroyed by the merciless Danes The Bishop's See of the East Angles was from North-Elmham removed hither and from hence to Norwich It is not very well Inhabited to what it has been However this is the Town where the Lent-Assizes for the County are usually kept Herling and
Pits and to come up is by the help of a Rope one end whereof being made into a Loop the Workman gets a Leg and Knee into it as far as the very Hip. Thus hugging the Rope with one Arm his Life wrapt up with it down he goes while the Rope turns about an Engine made for that purpose If the Rope fails as sometimes it does through Carelesness there 's an end of the Man and of the Conveyance By a Thrust is meant the fall of some Earth or great Stones whereby 't is the ill fate of some to be crushed as it is of others to be drowned by a sudden Irruption of Waters from an old Waste or otherwise But some Pits at Sunderland in the Bishoprick of Durham are subject besides to Fire-Damps So they call an Inflammation of the Air in those subterraneous Parts which being more than ordinary affected with sulphurous matter are sometimes apt to catch fire and then all go's to wrack It breaks out like a Thunder-bolt carries all away with it higher than the Pits Mouth and that with a dismal noise as it were with a crack of Thunder In this Case one might compare the inflamed Sulphur to Gun-powder the Coal-pit to a great Gun and what it brings up with it to Bullets it comes up with such a force But when this happens the Workmen foresee it by their Candles burning blue and blazing more than ordinary Whereupon they lay themselves flat upon the Ground and let the Meteor work it self above it But this is too deep a piece of Geography for me to insist upon I leave it therefore to those Men of deep reaches who live upon the Spot in order first to take a View of Newcastle the chief Place of this County Newcastel for distinctions sake called Newcastel upon Tine to difference it from another Town of that Name in Staffordshire bears from London North-by-West and is reckoned to be distant from it 212 miles Viz. 200 from London to Durham for the particulars whereof I refer you to my Description of Durham and 12 more from Durham to Newcastle This Town is seated on the North-Bank of the River Tine about 7 miles from its fall into the Sea Over the River it has a fair Stone-Bridge leading to Gateshead in the Bishoprick of Durham with an Iron-Gate upon it which parts the two Counties It stands high and low part upon a steep Hill and part in the bottom on 't near the River The Streets upon the Ascent are so very steep that they stand like so many Ladders And yet both Men and Horses are so used to 'em that they make little of it either with or without a Load The Houses are most of Stone some Timber and a few Brick-houses In short it is a Place of that extent as to contain four large Parishes with as many Churches The Whole incompassed with a Wall and fortified with a Castle but neglected and going to ruin Built by Robert Son to William the Conquerour from whence this Town formerly called Monk-Chester took the Name of Newcastle Among the other publick Buildings of this Place the Key next to the River the Town-House ●ard by it the Custom-house upon Sandy-Hill and S. Nicholas Church in the midst of the Town are the most Remarkable Ships of good Burden come up to the very Key as ●ar as the Bridge though the Newcastle-●leet seldom comes higher than Sheales near ●he River's Mouth Under the Town-house which 〈◊〉 no mean Structure is the Exchange or ●eeting Place for Merchants Before this ●ouse in the Market-Place stood lately a ●ew brazen Statue the Image of the late ●ing James on horseback Which soon after is Abdication was suddenly pulled down by ●e Forces then quartered in Town to the ●reat grief of many devout Jacobites in those ●arts who reverently paid to the Image the ●onour they retained for the Original S. Ni●olas Church stands very lofty on the top of Hill and looks more like a Cathedral than Parish Church with a fair Steeple of curious ●rchitecture But Newcastle do's not glory so much in all ●is as it do's in the great Trade it drives ●oth by Sea and Land for all Commodities ●somuch that one may well call it the Bristol 〈◊〉 the North it being the wealthiest as it is 〈◊〉 most trading Place in the whole Northern ●ract 'T is true nothing has made it thrive so ●uch as the Coal-Trade being surrounded ●s it is with Coal-Mines and blessed with ●e Conveniency of a navigable River for ●e Transportation of so necessary and usefull Commodity For the Carrying on of this Trade they have such Priviledges as might seem to some people exorbitant No Owner of Coals can load his Ship with his own Commodity but it must be done by a Member of a Company they have for that purpose called the Company of Fitters and every Fitter has six pence allowed him for every Newcastle Chaldron that go's out which makes up near upon two of London Measure The Town moreover takes 3 pence a Chaldron as a Duty besides 12 pence a Chaldron to the King paid at the Custom-house To conclude Newcastle is a County of it self that is has the Priviledge of governing it self independently from the rest of the County Of some note besides for giving the Title of Duke to his Grace Henry Cavendish the present Duke of Newcastle Whose Father William Cavendish was created first Earl afterwards Marquess of Newcastle by King Charles the first and in the Year 1664. Duke of Newcastle Earl of Ogle c. by Charles II. It has two Markets a Week viz. on Tuesdays and Saturdays both very considerable for all sorts of Provisions but particularly abounding with Cods and Salmon in their proper Season The other Market-Towns are Barwick Sat. Alnewick Sat. Hexam Tue. Morpeth Wedn. and Weller Thu. Barwick is seated at the mouth of the River Twede over which it has a fair Bridge supported by no less than 14 or 15 Arches But as it stands on the North side of the River by the Bounds of Northumberland it ought rather to be counted in Scotland than England And because it has been in the hands of the English from the Reign of Edward IV therefore in all Acts of Parliament and Royal Proclamations wherein this Town is concerned Barwick upon Twede is always named by it self as a distinct Part of this Realm and of Northumberland by consequence However as it is so near a Neighbour to this County I am unwilling to deviate from the Method of all Geographers whose way is to bring it under this Head as if it were a part of Northumberland In short Barwick by its Situation is a Place of good Strength being almost surrounded with Water what with the Sea and what with the River But it is fortified besides with good Walls and a Castle besides other Fortifications The Occasion of it was its being a Frontire-Town sometimes possessed by the Scots and sometimes by the English before these two
fortified with a strong Castle wherein a Garrison is kept The Town is not very large but well built and well inhabited and as it has a commodious Key it injoy's a pretty good Trade Several Vessels belong unto this Town imploy'd especially in Herring-Fishing Season which are taken on this Coast in great plenty This Place is also noted for its famous Spaw which is much resorted unto But of late in a more particular manner for giving the Title of Earl to the Right Honourable Richard Lumley newly created Earl of Scarborough Between this Town and Whitby to the Northward is Robin Hoods Bay so called from Robin-Hood that noted Robber in the Reign of Richard I. About which is found a sort of Jeat or black Amber Whitby another Sea-Town is commodiously seated on the River Esk at its Influx into the Sea A pretty neat Town with a Bridge over the River and driving a good Trade chiefly for Allum and Butter Here is a Custom-House and great many Vessels belonging to the Town Formerly a Place of note for its Abbey but chiefly for the Abbess thereof S. Hilda so famed in her time for working of Miracles One of which Tradition tells us was her ridding this Part of the Country of Snakes which infected it much and conjuring of them into the Sea by her fervent Prayers Which is backed by those who aver that at the Root of the craggy Rocks that are upon the Shore therely Stones scattered here and there naturally as round as a Bullet In which Stones being broken are found stony Serpents wrapt round but most of them headless Not far from Whitby is Mulgrave an ancient Castle situate near unto the Sea and first built in the Time of Richard II by Peter de Mauley Who being pleased with it called it Mouligrace that is a fine Seat But as it proved a grievous Yoke to the neighbour Inhabitants they nicknamed it and called it Moultgrave since turned into Mulgrave by which Name it go's to this day It continued in this Line for 7 Generations and all of them called Peters too The Issue male failing it passed through several Families till it came to the Sheffields Out of which House Edmund Lord Sheffield of Butterwick Lord President of the North was created Earl of Mulgrave by King Charles I. Anno 1625. To whom succeeded in the Title Edmund his Grand-Son by Sir John Sheffield his second Son Who dying in the Year 1658. left his Title to his Son and Heir the Right Honourable John Sheffield the present Earl of Mulgrave Some miles West from Mulgrave Castle is a small Sea-Town called Skeningrave not to be omitted were it but for the following Account of the seal-Seal-fish Hereabouts near unto Hunt-Cliff at low Water appear Rocks not far from the Shore about which the Seal-fish come in great Sholes and in fair and warm Weather ly sleeping and sunning themselves But as it has been observed while they ly thus asleep one of them is upon the Watch and acts the part of a Sentinel Who upon the appearance of any Danger gives the Signal by flouncing into the Water the Noise whereof awakes the rest and so they make their escape They are not afraid say's my Author of Women but only of Men and therefore they that catch 'em put on Womens Cloaths If when they are chased they find themselves too far from the Water their Way is with their hinder feet to fling Sand and Gravel backward in the Pursuers faces which forces 'em sometimes to quit the Sport Some miles from this Coast to the Southward is a Tract of Land called Cleveland taking that Name as Cambden tells us of the Cliffs or steep Banks which run all along the side thereof and at the foot of which the Country spreads it self into a fine fruitful Plain A Territory besides of a good extent which gave the Title of an Earl to Thomas Lord Wentworth created Earl of Cleveland by King Charles I. But leaving no Issue the Title died with him Anno 1670. King Charles II. conferred the Title of Dutchess of Cleveland upon Barbara Villiers Daughter to the Lord Viscount Grandison who was slain in the Civil Wars the Earl of Castlemain's Wife and Mother of three Dukes viz. the Duke of Southampton the Duke of Grafton and the Duke of Northumberland In this Tract I mean Cleveland is an ancient Castle called Danby seated near unto a large Park and a goodly Chase of the same Name It belonged anciently to the Lord Latimer and was sold with other Lands belonging to that Family to Ralph Nevil Earl of Westmorland who forthwith gave the same to his Son Sir George Nevil And not long after King Henry VI. summoned him to the Parliament by the Name of Lord Latimer Whose Issue male failing in Queen Elizabeths Time the Estate was divided between his two Daughters The Castle with the Lands adjoyning fell to the share of Mary Wife to Sir John Danvers of Wiltshire By whom she got Sir Henry Danvers Created by King James I. Lord Danvers of Danby and by King Charles I. Earl of Danby But he dying without Issue the Title lay dormant till revived by Charles II. By whom the Right Honourable Thomas Osborn now Marquess of Caermarthen was created Baron of Kineton and Viscount Latimer in the Year 1673 and Earl of Danby the next Year Gisborough is pleasantly seated in a Flat between Mulgrave and the River Tees A mean Town to what it was when it had its rich Abbey but of some note however for being the first place where Allum was made in England Not far from which is Roseberry-Topping a Hill Pyramid-like serving to Sailers for a Land-Mark and being to the Country-people a certain Sign of Rain when they see a Cloud over it Almost at the top of it is a Spring of Water coming out of a huge Rock counted good for sore Eyes Stokesley is a Market-Town well watered with fresh Streams Yarum but a mean Town is seated on the Tees which divides this County from the Bishoprick of Durham and over which it has a fair Stone-Bridge North-Allerton a large Borough-Town stands near the Wisk a small Stream that falls into the Swale And Thirsk is a small Borough-Town that had once a very strong Castle Bedal Middleham and Masham are all three in Richmondshire The first seated on the Swale and a small Stream that falls there into it Middleham and Masham on the Youre And not far from Masham is Aldborough an ancient Borough-Town New Malton Pickering Kirby-Moreside and Helmley ly all four Eastward not far distant from each other nor from the Sea The first a Borough-Town is seated on the Banks of the River Derwent over which it has a Stone-bridge and contains 3 Parish Churches being well-inhabited and accommodated with good Inns for Travellers It s Market on Saturdays is counted one of the best in all the County for Horses living Cattle Provisions and most Country-Commodities especially Tools for Husbandry The other
Time of the Year which amongst Citizens is the most proper for their Diversion This Fair is famous not so much for Things bought or sold as for its great Variety of Shews either of Nature or Art So that one may apply to it what the Romans of old used to say of Africk Quid novi fert Africa For here is always to be seen strange sorts of living Creatures And for such as love Feats of Activity Comical or Tragical Shews here they are to be seen in the utmost persection Which draws daily during the Fair a great Concourse of people to the benefit of the Shewers and the satisfaction of the Beholders And now amongst the English particular Customs I shall in the first place take notice of their Way of Pledging one another whereof this is the Original When the Danes Lorded it over England they used when the English drank to stab them or cut their Throats To avoid which Villany the Party then drinking requested some of the next to him to be his Surety or Pledge for his Life From whence came the Expression used to this day of Pledging one another when the Party drunk to takes his turn and drinks next after him Another Custom the English had formerly upon the Danes account which Time has so corrupted that there remains no sign of the first Institution except in the Name Hock-tide an old Saxon Word which signify's the Time of Scorning or Triumphing The English in the Reign of King Ethelred were so oppressed and broken by the Danes that Ethelred was fain to buy his Peace of them at the yearly Tribute of 10000 pound soon after inhaunced to 48000 which Monies were raised upon the Subjects by the Name of Danegelt But the King weary of this Exaction plotted with his Subjects to kill all the Danes as they slept in their Beds Which was accordingly done on S. Brice's Night Nov. 12.1012 The joyfull English having thus cleared their Country of the Danes instituted the annual Sports of Hock tide in Imitation of the Romans Fugalia at the expulsion of their Kings This Solemnity consisted in the merry Meerings of the Neighbours in those Days during which the Festival lasted and was celebrated by the younger sort of both Sexes with all manner of Exercises and Pastimes in the Streets At Coventry they yearly acted a Play called Hock-Tuesday till Q. Elizabeths Time The 14th of February being S. Valentines Day has been kept Time out of mind and is so to this day both by the English and Scots with some relation to the Instinct of Animals For Nature teaches us that about this time of the Year the Beasts of the Field and Fowls of the Air feeling a new heat by the approach of the Sun the Males chuse their Females and begin to couple From whence it is probable young Men and Maidens took occasion to meet together at this time to an equal Number and having their respective Names writ down severally upon pieces of paper rolled up the Men draw the Maidens Names and these the Mens So the Lot gives every Man a She Valentine and every Maid a He one the Men wearing their Lots for some Days rolled up about their Hat-bands and the Women before their Breast Whereupon they make each other a Present and sometimes it comes to be a Match in good earnest These Particulars so well known to the whole Nation I would not have insisted upon but for the satisfaction of Foreiners Upon whose Account I shall likewise explain but in few Words the Story of the Welsh Custom of wearing Leeks on their Hats the first day of March being S. David's Day Once upon a time to use the old English Style the Welsh Liberty lay grievously at stake and they must either be victorious or lose it In that Extremity they called for help upon S. David their Patron Armed with Confidence in that Saint they crossed Fields sowed with Leeks before they came to ingage and for distinction sake each Souldier took up a Leek The Welsh got the Victory and to perpetuate the Memory thereof as well as out of respect to the Saint they made a Law amongst themselves that on S. David's Day every Man should wear a Leek about his Head Which is religiously by them observed every Year the common people wearing but Garden Leeks and the better sort wrought ones The King himself out of Complacency to that People wears one upon that Day The Scots on their fide wear a blue Cross on the fore-part of their Hats upon S. Andrew's Day their Patron And the Irish a red Cross on one side of their Hats to the Memory of their old Patron S. Patrick CHAP. IV. I. Of the English Way of Travelling by Land either Horseback or in Coaches II. Of the general Post for Intercourse of Letters III. Of the English Coins Weights and Measures in relation to Trade IV. Of the great Trade of England in foreign Parts BEsides the Conveniency of Travelling by Water either by Sea or here and there upon Rivers I may say the English Nation is the best provided of any for Land-Travel as to Horses and Coaches And the Truth is there is not perhaps a Country so proper for 't 't is generally so open and level Travelling on Horseback is so common a Thing in England that the meanest sort of People use it as well as the rest Which sometimes fills the Roads with Riders not without frequent Disputes about giving the way which is unusual beyond Sea And as English Horses are the best for Expedition so 't is rare upon the Road to see an Englishman but upon the Gallop But for Persons that are tender or disabled England excels all other Nations in the Conveniency of Coaches but especially in that of Stage-Coaches a very commodious and easy Way of Travelling Here one may be transported without over-violent Motion and sheltered from the Injuries of the Air to most noted Places in England With so much speed that some of these Coaches will reach above 50 Miles in a Summer Day and at so easy Rates that it is in some Places less than a Shilling for every Five Miles As to the Post for Intercourse of Letters there is a general Office in the City of London from whence Letters and Pacquets are dispatched to all Parts and the Returns according to their respective Directions This Office now in Lombard-street London is managed in chief by the Post-master General who is constituted thereto by the King's Letters Patents under the Great Seal of England whose Place is counted to be worth 2000 l. a Year Under him he has a Deputy and other Officers to a great Number who give their actual attendance respectively in the Dispatch of Business Upon this General Post-Office depends 182 Deputy Post-Masters in England and Scotland most of which keep regular Offices in their Stages and Sub-Post Masters in their Branches So that there is no considerable Market-Town but has an easy and certain