and discovered also another Island about the same bigness 20 leagues to the Westward of this From those Goats these were propogated and the Island hath taken its name from this its first Discoverer who when he returned to Lima desired a Patent for it designing to settle here and it was in his second Voyage hither that he set ashore 3 or 4 Goats which have since by their increase so well stocked the whole Island But he could never get a Patent for it therefore it lies still destitute of Inhabitants though doubtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families by what may be produced off the Land only I speak much within compass for the Savanahs would at present feed 1000 head of Cattle besides Goats and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn or Wheat and good Pease Yams or Patatoes for the Land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains is of a good black fruitful mould The Sea about it is likewise very productive of its Inhabitants Seals swarm as thick about this Island as if they had no other place in the World to live in for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get ashore on but is full of them Sea Lyon's are here in great Companys and Fish particularly Snappers and Rock-fish are so plentiful that 2 men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line as many as will serve 100 men The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known yet it may not be amiss to describe them They are as big as Calves the head of them like a Dog therefore call'd by the Dutch the Sea-hounds Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin These serve them to swim with when in the Sea and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end by the help of these Fins or Stumps and so having their Tail-parts drawn close under them they rebound as it were and throw their bodies forward drawing their hinder-parts after them and then again rising up and springing forward with their fore-parts alternately they lie tumbling thus up and down all the while they are moving on Land From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish and have two small Fins on each side the Rump which is commonly covered with their Fins These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea and on Land they sit on them when they give suck to their young Their hair is of divers colours as black grey dun sported looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out of the Sea For these at John Fernando s have fine thick short Furr the like I have not taken notice of any where but in these Seas Here are always thousands I might say possibly millions of them either sitting on the Bays or going and coming in the Sea round the Island which is covered with them as they lye at the top of the Water playing and sunning themselves for a mile or two from the Shore When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young and tho they pass through hundreds of others young ones before they come to their own yet they will not suffer any of them to suck The young ones are like Puppies and lie much ashore but when beaten by any of us they as well as the old ones will make toward the Sea and swim very swift and nimble tho on shore they lye very sluggishly and will not go out of our ways unless we beat them but snap at us A blow on the Nose soon kills them Large Ships might here load themselves with Seals skins and Trane-oyl for they are extraordinary fat Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice where they will lie and sun themselves as here on the Land They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America and in the Southern parts of Africa as about the Cape of Good Hope and at the Streights of Magellan and though I never saw any in the West Indies but in the Bay of Campeachy at certain Islands called the Alceranes and at others called the Desartes yet they are over all the American Coast of the South Seas from Terra del Fuego up to the Equinoctial Line but to the North of the Equinox again in these Seas I never saw any till as far as 21 North Lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East Indies In general they seem to resort where there is plenty of Fish for that is their food and Fish such as they feed on as Cods Groopers c. are most plentiful on rocky Coasts and such is mostly this Western Coast of the South America as I shall further relate The Sea Lion is a large creature about 12 or 14 foot long The biggest part of his body is as big as a Bull it is shaped like a Seal but 6 times as big The Head is like a Lion's Head it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye the Teeth inches long about the bigness of a Mans Thumb In Capt. Sharp's time some of our Men made Dice with them They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal they are of a dun colour and are all extraordinary fat one of them being cut up and boil'd will yeild a Hogshed of Oil which is very sweet and wholesome to fry Meat withal The lean Flesh is black and of a course grain yet indifferent good food They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed Where 3 or 4 or more of them come ashore together they huddle one on another like Swine and grunt like them making a hideous noise They eat Fish which I believe is their common food The Snapper is a Fish made much like a Roach but a great deal bigger It hath a large Head and Mouth and great Gills The Back is of a bright Red the Belly of a Silver-colour The Scales are as broad as a Shilling The Snapper is excellent meat They are in many places in the West-Indies and the South-Seas I have not seen them any where beside The Rock-fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper the Spaniards call it a Baccalao which is the name for Cod because it is much like it It is rounder than the Snapper of a dark brown colour and hath small Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny This Fish is good sweet meat and is found in great plenty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor these are both at the East end and in both of them is a Rivolet of good fresh Water Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge to that degree that 50 men in each may be able to keep off 1000 and there is no coming into these Bays from the West end but with great
Eaton in the Streights of Magellan the Spaniards of Baldivia were doubtless informed of us by him suspecting him also to be one of us tho he was not Upon this News the Viceroy of Lima sent Expresses to all the Sea Ports that they might provide themselves against our Assaults We immediately steered away for the Island Lobos which lieth in lat 6 deg 24 min. South lat I took the Elevation of it ashore with an Astrolabe and its 5 leagues from the Main it is called Lobos de la Mar to distinguish it from another that is not far from it and extremely like it called Lobos de la Terra for it lies nearer the Main Lobos or Lovos is the Spanish Name for a Seal of which there are great plenty about these and several other Islands in these Seas that go by this Name The 9th of May we arrived at this Isle of Lobos de la Mar and came to an anchor with our Prize This Lobos consists indeed of two little Islands each about a milâ—…und of an indifferent heighth a small Channel between fit for Boats only and several Rocks lying on the North side of the Islands a little way from shore There is a small Cove or Sandy Bay sheltred from the Winds at the West end of the Eastermost Island where Ships may Careen The rest of the shore as well round the 2 Islands as between them is a Rocky Coast consisting of small Cliffs Within Land they are both of them partly Rocky and partly Sandy Barren without any fresh Water Tree Shrub Grass or Herbs or any Land Animals for the Seals and Sea-Lyons come ashore here but Fowls Of which there are great multitudes as Boobies but mostly Penguins which I have seen plentifully all over the South Seas on the Coast of Newfoundland and of the Cape of Good Hope They are a Sea Fowl about as big as a Duck and such Feet but a sharp Bill feeding on Fish They do not fly but flutter having rather stumps like a young Gossins than Wings And these are instead of Fins to them in the Water Their Feathers are Downy Their flesh is but ordinary food but their Eggs are good Meat There is another sort of small black Fowl that make holes in the Sand for their Night habitations whose flesh is good sweet meat I never saw any of them but here and at John Fernandos There is good riding between the Eastermost Island and the Rocks in 10 12 or 14 fathom for the wind is commonly at S. or S. S. E. and the Eastermost Island lying East and West shelters that Road. Here we scrubb'd our Ships and being in a readiness to sail the Prisoners were Examined to know if any of them could conduct us to some Town where we might make some attempt For they had before informed us that we were discried by the Spaniards and by that we knew that they would send no Riches by Sea so long as we were here Many Towns were considered on as Guiaquil Zana Truxillo and others At last Truxillo was pitched on as the most important therefore the likeliest to make us a Voyage if we could Conquer it which we did not much question though we knew it to be a very populous City But the greatest difficulty was in Landing for Guanchaquo which is the nearest Sea-port to it but 6 miles off is an ill place to Land since sometimes the very Fishermen that live there are not able to go out in 3 or 4 days However the 17th of May in the Afternoon our Men were mustered of both Ships Companies and their Arms proved We were in all 108 Men fit for Service besides the sick and the next day we intended to Sail and take the Wood Prize with us But the next day one of our Men being ashoar betimes on the Island discried three Sail bound to the North-ward two of them without the Island to the Westward the other between it and the Continent We soon got our Anchors up and chased and Captain Eaton who drew the least draught of Water put through between the Westermost Island and the Rocks and went after those two that were without the Islands We in Captain Cook 's Ship went after the other which stood in for the Main-Land but we soon fetched her up and having taken her stood in again with her to the Island for we saw that Captain Eaton wanted no help having taken both those that he went after He came in with one of his Prizes but the other was so far to Leeward and so deep that he could not then get her in but he hoped to get her in the next day but being deep laden as designed to go down before the wind to Panama she would not bear Sail. The 19th day she turned all day but got nothing nearer the Island Our Moskito strikers according to their custom went out and struck 6 Turtles for here are indifferent plenty of them These Ships that we took the day before came from Guanchaquo all three laden with Flower bound for Panama Two of them were laden as deep as they could swim the other was not above half laden but was ordered by the Vice-Roy of Lima to sail with the other two or else she should not sail till we were gone out of the Seas for he hoped they might escape us by setting out early In the biggest Ship was a Letter to the President of Panama from the Vice-Roy of Lima assuring him that there were Enemies come into that Sea for which reason he had dispatched these three Ships with Flower that they might not want for Panama is supplied from Peru and desired him to be frugal of it for he knew not when he should send more In this Ship were likewise 7 or 8 Tuns of Marmalate of Quinees and a stately Mule sent to the President and a very large Image of the Virgin Mary in Wood Carved and Painted to adorn a new Church at Panama and sent from Lima by the Vice-Roy for this great Ship came from thence not long before She brought also from Lima 800000 pieces of Eight to carry with her to Panama but while she lay at Guanchaco taking in her lading of Flower the Merchants hearing of Capt. Swan's being at Baldivia ordered the Money ashore again These Prisoners likewise informed us that the Gentlemen Inhabitants of Truxillo were building a Fort at Guanchaco which is the Sea Port for Truxillo close by the Sea purposely to hinder the designs of any that should attempt to land there Upon this news we altered our former resolutions and resolved to go with our three Prizes to the Gallapagos which are a great many large Islands lying some under the Equator others on each side of it I shall here omit the description of Truxillo because in my Appontlix at the latter end of the Book I intend to give a general Relation of most of the Towns of note on this Coast from Baldivia to Panama and from thence towards
was so named by the Spaniards after Sir Francis Drake took the Caoafoga a Ship chiefly laden with Plate which they say he brought hither and divided it here with his Men. It is about 4 mile long and a mile and half broad and of a good heighth It is bounded with high steep Cliffs clear round only at one place on the East side The top of it is flat and even the Soil sandy and dry the Trees it produceth are but small bodied low and grow thin and there are only 3 or 4 sorts of Trees all unknown to us I observed they were much overgrown with long Moss There is good Grass especially in the beginning of the year There is no Water on this Island but at one place on the East side close by the Sea there it drills slowly down from the Rocks where it may be received into Vessels There was plenty of Goats but they are now all destroyed There is no other sort of Land Animal that I did ever see here are plenty of Boobies and Men of War Birds The anchoring place is on the East side near the middle of the Island close by the shore within two Cables lengths of the sandy Bay there is about 18 or 20 fathom good fast oazy ground and smooth Water for the S. E. point of the Island shelters from the South Winds which constantly blow here From the S. E. point there strikes out a small shole a quarter of a mile into the Sea where there is commonly a great Riplin or working of short Waves during all the Flood The Tide runs pretty strong the Flood to the South and the Ebb to the North. There is good landing on the Sandy Bay against the anchoring place from whence you may go up into the Island and at no place besides There are 2 or 3 high steep small Rocks at the S. E. point not a Cables length from the Island and another much bigger at the N. E. end it is deep Water all round but at the anchoring place and at the shole at the S. E point This Island lieth in lat 01d 10 m. South It is distant from Cape St. Lorenzo 4 or 5 leagues bearing from it W. S. W. and half a point westerly At this Island are plenty of those small Sea Turtle spoken of in my last Chapter The 21st day Captain Eaton came to an anchor by us he was very willing to have consorted with us again but Captain Davis's Men were so unreasonable that they would not allow Captain Eaton's Men an equal share with them in what they got therefore Captain Eaton staid here but one night and the next day sailed from hence steering away to the Southward We staid no longer than the day ensuing and then we sailed toward Point St. Hellena intending there to land some Men purposely to get Prisoners for intelligence Point Santa Hellena bears South from the Island Plata It lies in lat 2d 15 m. South The Point is pretty high flat and even at top overgrown with many great Thistles but no sort of Tree at a distance it appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low This Point strikes out West into the Sea making a pretty large Bay on the North side A mile within the Point on the Sandy Bay close by the Sea there is a poor small Indian Village called Sancta Hellena the Land about it is low sandy and barren there are no Trees nor Grass growing near it neither do the Indians produce any Fruit Grain or Plant but Water-Melons only which are large and very sweet There is no fresh Water at this place nor near it therefore the Inhabitants are obliged to fetch all their Water from the River Colanche which is in the bottom of the Bay about 4 leagues from it Not far from this Town on the Bay close by the Sea about 5 paces from high-water mark there is a sort of bitumenous matter boils out of a little hole in the earth It is like thin Tar the Spaniards call it Algatrane By much boiling it becomes hard like Pitch It is frequently used by the Spaniards instead of Pitch and the Indians that inhabit here save it in Jars It boils up most at high water and. then the Indians are ready to receive it These Indians are Fishermen and go out to Sea on Bark-logs Their chief subsistence is Maiz most of which they get from Ships that come hither for Algatrane There is good anchoring to leeward of the Point right against the Village but on the West side of the Point it is deep Water and no anchoring The Spaniards do report that there was once a very rich Ship driven ashore here in calm for want of Wind to work her Assoon as ever she struck she heel'd off to Sea and fill'd with Water presently and then slid off to 7 or 8 fathom Water where she lies to this day none having attempted to fish for her because she lies deep and there falls in here a great high Sea When we were abreast of this Point we sent away our Canoas in the night to take the Indian Village They landed in the morning betimes close by the Town and took some Prisoners They took likewise a small Bark which the Indians had set on fire but our Men quenched it and took the Indian that did it who being asked wherefore he set the Bark on fire said That there was an Order from the Vice-Roy lately set out commanding all Sea-men to burn their Vessels if attacked by us and betake themselves to their Boats There was another Bark in a small Cove a mile from the Village thither our men went thinking to take her but the Sea-men that were aboard set her in flames and fled In the evening our men came aboard and brought the small Bark with them the fire of which they had quenched and then we returned again towards Plata where we arriv'd the 26th day of September In the evening we sent out some men in our Bark lately taken and Canoas to an Indian Village called Manta 2 or 3 leagues to the Westward of Cape St. Lorenzo hoping there to get other Prisoners for we could not learn from those we took at Point St. Hellena the reason why the Vice-Roy should give such orders to burn the Ships They had a fresh Sea-breeze till 12 a clock at night and then it proved Calm wherefore they rowed away with their Canoas as near to the Town as they thought convenient and lay still till day Manta is a small Indian Village on the Main distant from the Island Plata 7 or 8 leagues It slands so advantageously to be seen being built on a small ascent that it makes a very fair prospect to the Sea yet but a few poor scattering Indian houses There is a very fine Church adorned with a great deal of Carved work It was formerly a habitation of Spaniards but they are all removed from hence now The Land about it is dry and
always go before the Wind being unable to ply against it and therefore are fit only for these Seas where the Wind is always in a manner the same not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima till such time as they come into the Bay of Panama and even there they meet with no great Sea but sometimes Northerly winds and then they lower their Sails and drive before it waiting a change All their care then is only to keep off from Shore for they are so made that they cannot sink at Sea These Rafts carry 60 or 70 Tuns of Goods and upwards their Cargo is chiefly Wine Oyl Flower Sugar Quito-cloath Soap Goat-skins drest c. The Float is manag'd usually by 3 or 4 Men who being unable to return with it against the Trade-wind when they come to Panama dispose of the goods and bottom together getting a passage back again for themselves in some Ship or Boat bound to the Port they came from and there they make a new Bark-log for their next Cargo The smaller sort of Bark-logs described before which lye flat on the Water and are used for Fishing or carrying Water to Ships or the like half a Tun or a Tun at a time are more governable than the other tho they have Masts and Sails too With these they go out at night by the help of the Land-wind which is seldom wanting on this Coast and return back in the day time with the Sea-wind This sort of Floats are used in many places both in the East and West Indies On the Coast of Coromandel in the East Indies they call them Catamarans These are but one Log or two sometimes of a sort of light Wood and are made without Sail or Rud der and so small that they carry but one Man whose legs and breech are always in the Water and he manages his Log with a Paddle appearing at a distance like a Man sitting on a Fish's back The Country about Payta is mountainous and barren like all the rest of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no Towns of consequence nearer it than Piura which is a large Town in the Country 40 miles distant It lieth by report of our Spanish Prisoners in a Valley which is watered with a small River that disembogues it self into the Bay of Chirapce in about 7d of North latitude This Bay is nearer to Piura than Payta yet all Goods imported by Sea for Piura are landed at Payta for the Bay of Chirapee is full of dangerous sholes and therefore not frequented by shipping The Road of Payta is one of the best on the Coast of Peru. It is sheltered from the South-west by a point of Land which makes a large Bay and smooth Water for Ships to ride in There is room enough for a good Fleet of Ships and good anchoring in any depth from 6 fathom water to 20 fathom Right against the Town the nearer the Town the shallower the water and the smoother the riding it is clean Sand all over the Bay Most Ships passing either to the North or the South touch at this place for water for tho here is none at the Town yet those Indian Fishermen of Colan will and do supply all Ships very reasonably and good water is much prized on all this Coast through the scarcity of it November the 3d at 6 a clock in the morning our Men landed about 4 miles to the South of the Town and took some Prisoners that were sent thither to watch for fear of us and these Prisoners said that the Governor of Piura came with 100 armed Men to Payta the night before purposely to oppose our landing there if we should attempt it Our Men marched directly to the Fort on the Hill and took it without the loss of one Man Hereupon the Governor of Piura with all his Men and the Inhabitants of the Town ran away as fast as they could Then our Men entered the Town and found it emptied both of Money and Goods there was not so much as a Meal of Victuals left for them The Prisoners told us a Ship had been here a little before and burnt a great Ship in the Road but did not land their Men and that here they put ashore all their Prisoners and Pilots We knew this must be Captain Eaton's Ship which had done this and by these circumstances we supposed he was gone to the East Indies it being always designed by him The Prisoners told us also that since Captain Eaton was here a small Bark had been off the Harbor and taken a pair of Bark-logs a fishing and made the Fishermen bring aboard 20 or 30 Jars of fresh water This we supposed was our Bark that was sent to the Lobos to seek Captain Eaton In the evening we came in with our Ships and anchored before the Town in 10 fathom water near a mile from the shore Here we staid till the sixth day in hopes to get a Ransom for the Town Our Captains demanded 300 Packs of Flower 3000 pound of Sugar 25 Jars of Wine and 1000 Jars of Water to be brought off to us but we got nothing of it Therefore Captain Swan ordered the Town to be fir'd which was presently done Then all our Men came aboard and Captain Swan ordered the Bark which Captain Harris commanded to be burnt because she did not sail well At night when the Land Wind came off we sailed from hence towards Lobos The 10th day in the evening we saw a Sail bearing N. W. by N. as far as we could well discern her on our Deck We immediately chased separating our selves the better to meet her in the night but we mist her Therefore the next morning we again trimb'd sharp and made the best of our way to the Lobos de la Mar. The 14th day we had sight of the Island Lobos de Terra it bore East from us we stood in towards it and betwixt 7 and 8 a clock in the night came to an anchor at the N. E. end of the Island in 14 fathom water This Island at Sea is of an indifferent height and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter of a mile from the North end there is a great hollow Rock and a good Channel between where there is 7 fathom water The 15th day we went ashore and found abundance of Penguins and Boobies and Seal in great quanties We sent aboard of all these to be drest for we had not tasted any flesh in a great while before therefore some of us did eat very heartily Captain Swan to encourage his Men to eat this course flesh would commend it for extraordinary good food comparing the Seal to roasting Pig the Boobies to Hens and the Penguins to Ducks this he did to train them to live contentedly on course Meat not knowing but we might be forced to make use of such food before we departed out of these Seas for it is generally seen among Privateers that nothing imboldens them
and they proved very tough heavy Canes We saw no Houses nor sign of Inhabitants but while we lay here there was a Canoa with 6 men came into this Bay but whether they were bound or from whence they came I know not They were Indians and we could not understand them In the middle of this Bay about a mile from the shore there is small low woody Island not above a mile in circumference our Ship rode about a mile from it This Island was the habitation of an incredible number of great Batts with bodies as big as Ducks or larger Fowl and with vast Wings For I saw at Mindanao one of this sort and I judge that the Wings stretcht out in length could not be less asunder than 7 or 8 foot from tip to tip for it was much more than any of us could fathom with our Arms extended to the utmost The Wings are for substance like those of other Batts of a dun or mouse colour The Skin or Leather of them hath Ribs running along it and draws up in 3 or 4 folds and at the joints of those Ribs and the extremities of the Wings there are sharp crooked Claws by which they may hang on any thing In the evening as soon as the Sun was set these Creatures would begin to take their flight from this Island in swarms like Bees directing their flight over to the main Island and whether afterwards I know not Thus we should see them rising up from the Island till night hindred our sight and in the morning as soon as it was light we should see them returning again like a Cloud to the small Island till Sun rising This course they kept constantly while we lay here affording us every morning and evening an hours diversion in gazing at them and talking about them but our curiosity did not prevail with us to go ashore to them our selves and Canoas being all the day time taken up in business about our Ship At this Isle also we found plenty of Turtle and Manatee but no Fish We stay'd here till the 10th of February 1687 and then having compleated our business we sailed hence with the Wind at North. But going out we struck on a Rock where we lay two hours It was very smooth Water and the Tide of flood or else we should there have lost our Ship We struck off a great piece of our Rudder which was all the damage that we received but we more narrowly mist losing our Ship this time than in any other in the whole Voyage This is a very dangerous Shoal because it does not break unless probably it may appear in foul weather It lies about two mile to the Westward without the small Batt Island Here we found the Tide of flood setting to the Southward and the Ebb to the Northward After we were past this Shoal we coasted along by the rest of the Philippine Islands keeping on the West side of them Some of them appeared to be very Mountainous dry Land We saw many fires in the night as we passed by Panay a great Island settled by Spaniards and by the fires up and down it seems to be well settled by them for this is a Spanish custom whereby they give notice of any danger or the like from Sea and 't is probable they had seen our Ship the day before This is an unfrequented Coast and 't is rare to have any Ship seen there We touched not at Panay nor any where else tho we saw a great many small Islands to the Westward of us and some Shoals but none of them laid down in our draughts The 18th day of Feb. we anchored at the N. W. end of the Island Mindora in 10 fathom Water about 3 quarters of a mile from the shore Mindora is a large Island the middle of it lying in lat 13 about 40 leagues long stretching N. W. and S. E. It is high and Mountainous and not very woody At this place where we anchored the Land was neither very high nor low There was a small Brook of Water and the Land by the Sea was very woody and the Trees high and tall but a league or two farther in the Woods are very thin and small Here we saw great tracks of Hogs and Beef and we saw some of each and hunted them but they were wild and we could kill none While we were here there was a Canoa with 4 Indians came from Manila They were very shie of us a while but at last hearing us speak Spanish they came to us and told us that they were going to a Frier that liv'd at an Indian Village towards the S. E. end of the Island They told us also that the Harbour of Manila is seldom or never without 20 or 30 Sail of Vessels most Chinese some Portugueze and some few the Spaniards have of their own They said that when they had done their business with the Frier they would return to Manila and hoped to be back again at this place in 4 days time We told them that we came for a Trade with the Spaniards at Manila and should be glad if they would carry a Letter to some Merchant there which they promised to do But this was only a pretence of ours to get out of them what intelligence we could as to their Shipping Strength and the like under colour of seeking a Trade for our business was to pillage Now if we had really designed to have traded here this was as fair an opportunity as Men could have desired for these men could have brought us to the Frier that they were going to and a small Present to him would have engaged him to do any kindness for us in the way of Trade for the Spanish Governors do not allow of it and we must Trade by stealth The 21st day we went from hence with the wind at E. N. E. a small gale The 23d day in the morning we were fair by the S. E. end of the Island Luconia the place that had been so long desired by us We presently saw a Sail coming from the Northward and making after her we took her in 2 hours time She was a Spanish Bark that came from a place called Pangasanam a small Town on the N. end of Luconia as they told us probably the same with Pongassinay which lies on a Bay at the N. W. side of the Island She was bound to Manila but had no Goods aboard and therefore we turned her away The 23d we took another Spanish Vessel that came from the same place as the other She was laden with Rice and Cotton-cloath and bound for Manila also These Goods were purposely for the Acapulco Ship the Rice was for the Men to live on while they lay there and in their return and the Cotton-cloath was to make Sails The Master of this Prize was Boatswain of the Acapulco Ship which escaped us at Guam and was now at Manila It was this Man that gave us the relation of what
we bore away on the North side till we came to the East point giving the Rocks a small birth then we trimb'd sharp and stood to the Southward passing close by it and sounded again but found no ground This shoal is laid down in our Drafts not above 16 or 20 leagues from New Holland but we did run afterwards 60 leagues due South before we fell in with it and I am very confident that no part of New Holland hereabouts lyes so far Northerly by 40 leagues as it is laid down in our Drafts For if New Holland were laid down true we must of necessity have been driven near 40 leagues to the Westward of our course but this is very improbable that the Current should set so strong to the Westward seeing we had such a constant Westerly Wind. I grant that when the Monsoon shifts first the Current does not presently shift but runs afterwards near a month but the Monsoon had been shifted at least two months now But of the Monsoons and other Winds and of the Currents elsewhere in their proper place As to these here I do rather believe that the Land is not laid down true than that the Current deceived us for it was more probable we should have been deceived before we met with the shoal than afterward for on the Coast of New Holland we found the Tides keeping their constant course the Flood running N. by E. and the Ebb S. by W. The 4th day of January 1688 we fell in with the Land of New Holland in the Lat. of 16 d. 50 m. having as I said before made our course due South from the shoal that we past by the 31st day of December We ran in close by it and finding no convenient anchoring because it lies open to the N. W. we ran along shore to the Eastward steering N. E. by E. for so the Land lies We steered thus about 12 leagues and then came to a point of Land from whence the Land trends East and Southerly for 10 or 12 leagues but how afterwards I know not About 3 leagues to the Eastward of this point there is a pretty deep Bay with abundance of Islands in it and a very good place to anchor in or to hale ashore About a league to the Eastward of that point we anchored January the 5th 1688. 2 mile from the shore in 29 fathom good hard sand and clean ground New Holland is a very large tract of Land It is not yet determined whether it is an Island or a main Continent but I am certain that it joyns neither to Asia Africa nor America This part of it that we saw is all low even Land with sandy Banks against the Sea only the points are rocky and so are some of the Islands in this Bay The Land is of a dry sandy soil destitute of Water except you make Wells yet producing divers sorts of Trees but the Woods are not thick nor the Trees very big Most of the Trees that we saw are Dragon-trees as we supposed and these too are the largest Trees of any there They are about the bigness of our large Apple Trees and about the same heighth and the rind is blackish and somewhat rough The leaves are of a dark colour the Gum distils out of the knots or cracks that are in the bodies of the Trees We compared it with some Gum Dragon or Dragons Blood that was aboard and it was of the same colour and taste The other sorts of Trees were not known by any of us There was pretty long grass growing under the Trees but it was very thin We saw no Trees that bore Fruit or Berries We saw no sort of Animal nor any track of Beast but once and that seemed to be the tread of a Beast as big as a great Mastiff Dog Here are a few small Land-birds but none bigger than a Blackbird and but few Sea-fowls Neither is the Sea very plentifully stored with Fish unless you reckon the Manatee and Turtle as such Of these creatures there is plenty but they are extraordinary shy though the Inhabitants cannot trouble them much having neither Boats nor Iron The Inhabitants of this Country are the miserablest People in the world The Hodmadods of Monomatapa though a nasty People yet for Wealth are Gentlemen to these who have no Houses and Skin Garments Sheep Poultry and Fruits of the Earth Ostrich Eggs c. as the Hodmadods have and setting aside their humane shape they differ but little from Brutes They are tall strait bodied and thin with small long Limbs They have great Heads round Foreheads and great Brows Their Eye-lids are always half closed to keep the Flies out of their Eyes they being so troublesome here that no fanning will keep them from coming to ones Face and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off they will creep into ones Nostrils and Mouth too if the Lips are not shut very close So that from their Infancy being thus annoyed with these Insects they do never open their Eyes as other People and therefore they cannot see far unless they hold up their Heads as if they were looking at somewhat over them They have great Bottle noses pretty full lips and wide mouths The two fore teeth of their upper Jaw are wanting in all of them men and women old and young whether they draw them out I know not Neither have they any Beards They are long visaged and of a very unpleasing aspect having no one graceful feature in their faces Their Hair is black short and curl'd like that of the Negroes and not long and lank like the common Indians The colour of their skins both of their faces and the rest of their body is coal black like that of the Negroes of Guinea They have no sort of Cloaths but a piece of the rind of a Tree ty'd like a Girdle about their wastes and a handful of long Grass or 3 or 4 small green Boughs full of Leaves thrust under their Girdle to cover their nakedness They have no Houses but lye in the open Air without any covering the Earth being their Bed and the Heaven their Canopy Whether they cohabit one Man to one Woman or promiscuously I know not but they do live in Companies 20 or 30 Men Women and Children together Their only food is a small sort of Fish which they get by making Wares of stone across little Coves or branches of the Sea every Tide bringing in the small Fish and there leaving them for a prey to these people who constantly attend there to search for them at low water This small Fry I take to be the top of their Fishery they have no Instruments to catch great Fish should they come and such seldom stay to be left behind at low water nor could we catch any Fish with our Hooks and Lines all the while we lay there In other places at low water they seek for Cockles Muscles and Periwincles Of these Shell-fish there are fewer still so that their chiefest dependance is upon what the Sea leaves
very shy since the English and Dutch settled here for now the Natives as well as they shoot them but before their arrival the Tonquinese took them only with Nets neither is this custom left off yet The Net that is us'd for this Game is made square and either bigger or less according as they have occasion They fix two Poles about 10 or 11 foot high upright in the ground near the Pond where the Ducks haunt and the Net has a head-cord which is stretched out streight made from the top of one Pole to the other from whence the lower part of the Net hangs down loose towards the ground and when in the evening they fly towards the Pond many of them strike against the Net and are there entangled There is a kind of Locust in Tonquin in great abundance This Creature is about the bigness of the top of a mans Finger and as long as the first joynt It breeds in the earth especially in the banks of Rivers and Ditches in the low Country In the months of January and February which is the season of taking them being then only seen this creature first comes out of the Earth in huge swarms It is then of a whitish colour and having 2 small wings like the wings of a Bee at its first coming out of the Earth it takes its flight but for want of strength or use falls down again in a short time Such as strive to fly over the River do commonly fall down into the water and are drowned or become a prey to the Fish of the River or are carried out into the Sea to be devoured there but the Natives in these months watch the Rivers and take up thence multitudes skimming them from off the Water with little Nets They eat them fresh broiled on the Coals or pickle them to keep They are plump and fat and are much esteemed both by rich and poor as good wholesome food either fresh or pickled The Rivers and Ponds are stored with divers sorts of excellent Fish besides abundance of Frogs which they Angle for being highly esteemed by the Tonquinese The Sea too contributes much towards the support of the poor People by yielding plentiful stores of Fish that swarm on this Coast in their seasons and which are commonly preferr'd before the River Fish Of these here are divers sorts besides Sea Turtle which frequently come ashore on the Sandy Bays in their seasons to lay their Eggs. Here are also both Land crabs and Sea-crabs good store and other Shell-fish viz. Craw-fish Shrimps and Prawns Here is one sort of small Fish much like an Anchovy both in shape and size which is very good pickled There are other sorts of small Fish which I know not the names of One sort of them comes in great shoals near the shore and these the Fishermen with their Nets take so plentifully as to load their Boats with them Among these they generally take a great many Shrimps in their nets which they carry ashore mixt together as they take them and make Balachaun with them Balachaun is a composition of a strong savor yet a very delightsom dish to the Natives of this Country To make it they throw the Mixture of Shrimps and small Fish into a sort of weak pickle made with Salt and Water and put into a tight earthen Vessel or Jar. The Pickle being thus weak it keeps not the Fish firm and hard neither is it probably so designed for the Fish are never gutted Therefore in a short time they turn all to a mash in the Vessel and when they have lain thus a good while so that the Fish is reduced to a pap they then draw off the liquor into fresh Jars and preserve it for use The masht Fish that remains behind is called Balachaun and the liquor pour'd off is call'd Nuke-Mum The poor people eat the Balachaun with their Rice 'T is rank scented yet the taste is not altogether unpleasant but rather savory after one is a little used to it The Nuke-Mum is of a paie brown colour inclining to grey and pretty clear It is also very savory and used as a good sauce for Fowls not only by the Natives but also by many Europeans who esteem it equal with Soy I have been told that Soy is made partly with a Fishy composition and it seems most likely by the taste tho a Gentleman of my acquaintance who was very intimate with one that sailed often from Tonquin to Japan from whence the true Soy comes told me that it was made only with Wheat and a sort of Beans mixt with Water and Salt Their way of Fishing differs little from ours in the Rivers they take some of their Fish with Hook and Line others with Nets of several sorts At the mouths of the Rivers they set nets against the Stream or Tide These have two long wings opening on each side the mouth of the Net to guide the Fish into it where passing through a narrow neck they are caught in a bag at the farther end Where the Rivers mouth is so wide that the wings of the Net will not reach from side to side as at Batsha particularly it will not there they supply that defect with long slender Canes which they stick upright near one another in a row for on both sides of the River when the tide runs strong which is the time that the Fish are moving the limber Canes make such a ratling by striking against each other that thereby the Fish are scared from thence towards the Mouth of the Net in the middle of the Stream Farther up the River they have Nets made square like a great sheet This sort hath two long Poles laid across each other At this crossing of the Poles a long Rope is fastned and the Net hangs down in a bag by its corners from them To manage it there is a substantial post set upright and firm in the River and the top of it may be 8 or 10 foot above the water On the top of this post there is a Mortice made to receive a long pole that lies athwart like the Beam of a Ballance to the heavier end of which they tie the Rope which holds the Net and to the other end another Rope to pull up the Net on occasion The Fishermen sink it with Stones to the Rivers bottom and when they see any Fish come over it one suddenly pulls the Rope at the opposite end of the beam and heaves Net and Fish out of the Water They take a great deal of Fish this way and sometimes they use Drag-Nets which go quite across and sweep the River In the stagnant Ponds such as the Mandarins have commonly about their Houses they go in and trouble the water with their feet till 't is all muddy and thick and as the Fish rise to the surface they take what they please with small Nets fastned to a hoop at the end of a pole For all these sorts of provision there
Land I have seen of them also at Mindanea one of the Philippine Islands and on the Coast of New-Holland This Creature is about the bigness of a Horse and 10 or 12 foot long The mouth of it is much like the mouth of a Cow having great thick lips The Eyes are no bigger than a small Pea the Ears are only two small holes on each side of the Head The Neck is short and thick bigger than the Head The biggest part of this Creature is at the Shoulders where it hath two large Fins one on each side of its Belly Under each of these Fins the Female hath a small Dug to suckle her young From the Shoulders towards the Tail it retains its bigness for about 2 foot then groweth smaller and smaller to the very tail which is flat and about 14 inches broad and 20 inches long and in the middle 4 or 5 inches thick but about the edges of it not above 2 inches thick From the head to the tail it is round and smooth without any Fin but those two before mentioned I have heard that some have weighed above 1200 l. but I never saw any so large The Manatee delights to live in brackish Water and they are commonly in Creeks and Rivers near the Sea 'T is for this reason possibly they are not seen in the South Seas that ever I could observe where the Coast is generally a bold Shore that is high Land and deep Water close home by it with a high Sea or great Surges except in the Bay of Panama yet even there is no Manatee Whereas the West-Indies being as it were one great Bay composed of many smaller are mostly low Land and shoal Water and afford proper pasture as I may say for the Manatee Sometimes we find them in salt Water sometimes in fresh but never far at Sea And those that live in the Sea at such places where there is no River nor Creek fit for them to enter yet do commonly come once or twice in 24 hours to the mouth of any fresh Water River that is near their place of abode They live on Grass 7 or 8 inches long and of a narrow blade which grows in the Sea in many places especially among Islands near the Main This Grass groweth likewise in Creeks or in great Rivers near the sides of them in such places where there is but little tide or current They never come ashore nor into shallower water than where they can swim Their flesh is white both the fat and the lean and extraordinary sweet wholsome meat The tail of a young Cow is most esteemed but if old both head and tail are very tough A Calf that sucks is the most delicate meat Privateers commonly roast them as they do also great pieces cut out of the Bellies of the old ones The Skin of the Manatee is of great use to Privateers for they cut them out into straps which they make fast on the sides of their Canoas through which they put their Oars in rowing instead of tholes or pegs The Skin of the Bull or of the back of the Cow is too thick for this use but of it they make Horse-whips cutting them 2 or 3 foot long at the handle they leave the full substance of the Skin and from thence cut it away tapering but very even and square all the four sides While the Thongs are green they twist them and hang them to dry which in a weeks time become as hard as Wood. The Moskito-men have always a small Canoa for their use to strike Fish Tortoise or Manatee which they keep usually to themselves and very neat and clean They use no Oars but Paddles the broad part of which doth not go tapering towards the staff pole or handle of it as in the Oar nor do they use it in the same manner by laying it on the side of the Vessel but hold it perpendicularly griping the staff hard with both hands and putting back the water by main strength and very qâ—…ick strokes One of the Moskitoes for there go but two in a Canoa sits in the stern the other kneels down in the head and both paddle till they come to the place where they expect their game Then they lye still or paddle very softly looking well about them and he that is in the head of the Canoa lays down his paddle and stands up with his striking staff in his hand This staff is about 8 foot long almost as big as a mans Arm at the great end in which there is a hole to place his Harpoon in At the other end of his staff there is a piece of light Wood called Bobwood with a hole in it through which the small end of the staff comes and on this piece of Bobwood there is a line of 10 or 12 fathom wound neatly about and the end of the line made fast to it The other end of the line is made fast to the Harpoon which is at the great end of the staff and the Moskito man keeps about a fathom of it loose in his hand When he strikes the Harpoon presently comes out of the staff and as the Manatee swims away the line runs off from the bob and although at first both staff and bob may be carried under water vet as the line runs off it will rise again Then the Moskito men paddle with all their might to get hold of the bob again and spend usually a quarter of an hour before they get it When the Manatee begins to be tired it lyeth still and then the Moskito men paddle to the bob and take it up and begin to hale in the line When the Manatee feels them he swims away again with the Canoa after him then he that steers must be nimble to turn the head of the Canoa that way that his consort points who being in the head of the Canoa and holding the line both sees and feels which way the Manatee is swimming Thus the Canoa is towed with a violent motion till the Manatee's strength decays Then they gather in the line which they are often forced to let all go to the very end At length when the Creatures strength is spent they hale it up to the Canoas side and knock it on the head and tow it to the nearest shore where they make it fast and seek for another which having taken they go ashore with it to put it into their Canoa For it is so heavy that they cannot lift it in but they hale it up in shoal water as near the shore as they can and then overset the Canoa laying one side close to the Manatee Then they roll it in which brings the Canoa upright again and when they have heav'd out the water they fasten a line to the other Manatee that lieth afloat and tow it after them I have known two Moskito men for a week every day bring aboard two Manatee in this manner the least of which hath not weighed less than 600
pound and that in a very small Canoa that 3 English men would scarce adventure to go in When they strike a Cow that hath a young one they seldom miss the Calf for she commonly takes her young under one of her Fins But if the Calf is so big that she cannot carry it or so frightned that she only minds to save her own life yet the young never leaves her till the Moskito men have an opportunity to strike her They make their Lines both for Fishing and Striking with the bark of Maho which is a sort of Tree or Shrub that grow plentifully all over the West-Indies and whose Bark is made up of strings or threads very strong You may draw it off either in flakes or small threads as you have occasion T is fit for any manner of Cordage and Privateers often make their Rigging of it So much by way of Digression When we had cleaned our Tartan we sailed from hence bound for Boca-toro which is an opening between two Islands about 10 Deg. 10 Min. North Lat. between the Rivers of Veragne and Chagre Here we met with Captain Yanky who told us that there had been a Fleet of Spanish Armadilloes to seek us that Captain Tristian having fallen to Leeward was coming to Boca-toro and fell in amongst them supposing them to be our Fleet that they fired and chaced him but he Rowed and Towed and they supposed he got away that Captain Pain was likewise chaced by them and Captain Williams and that they had not seen them since that they lay within the Islands that the Spaniards never came in to him and that Captain Coxon was in at the Careening place This Boca-toro is a place that the Privateers use to resort to as much as any place on all the Coast because here is plenty of green Tortoise and a good Careening place The Indians here have no commerce with the Spaniards but are very barbarous and will not be dealt with They have destroyed many Privateers as they did not long after this some of Captain Pain s men who having built a Tent ashore to put his goods in while he Careened his Ship and some men lying there with their arms in the night the Indians crept softly into the Tent and cut off the Heads of or 4 men and made their escape nor was this the first time they had served the Privateers so There grow on this Coast Vinelloes in great quantity with which Chocolate is perfumed These I shall describe elsewhere Our Fleet being thus scattered there were now no hopes of getting together again therefore every one did what they thought most conducing to obtain their ends Captain Wright with whom I now was was resolv'd to cruise on the Coast of Cartagene and it being now almost the Westerly wind season we sailed from hence and Captain Yanky with us and we consorted because Captain Yanky had no Commission and was afraid the French would take away his Bark We past by Scuda a small Island where 't is said Sir Francis Drake's bowels were bury d and came to a small River to Westward of Chagre where we took two new Canoas and carry d them with us into the Sambaloes We had the Wind at West with much rain which brought us to Point-Samballas Here Captain Wright and Captain Yanky left us in the Tartane to fix the Canoas while they went on the Coast of Cartagene to seek for provision We cruised in among the Islands and kept our Moskito-men or strikers out who brought aboard some half-grown Tortoise and some of us went ashore every day to hunt for what we could find in the Woods Sometimes we got Pecary Warree or Deer at other times we light on a drove of large fat Monkeys or Quames Corrosoes each a large sort of Fowl Pidgeons Parrots or Turtle-doves We liv'd very well on what we got not staying long in one place but sometimes we would go on the Islands where there grow great Groves of Sapadillies which is a sort of Fruit much like a Pear but more juicy and under those Trees we found plenty of Soldiers a little kind of Animals that live in Shells and have two great Claws like a Crab and are good food One time our men found a great many large ones and being sharp-set had them drest but most of them were very sick afterwards being poysoned by them For on this Island were many Manchaneel Trees whose Fruit is like a small Crab and smells very well but they are not wholesome and we commonly take care of meddling with any Animals that eat them And this we take for a general rule when we find any Fruits that we have not seen before if we see them peck d by Birds we may freely eat but if we see no such sign we let them alone for of this fruit no Birds will taste Many of these Islands have of these Manchaneel-Trees growing on them Thus cruising in among these Islands at length we came again to La Sound 's Key and the day before having met with a Jamaica Sloop that was come over on the Coast to trade she went with us It was in the evening when we came to an Anchor and the next morning we fir'd two Guns for the Indians that liv'd on the Main to come aboard for by this time we concluded we should hear from our five men that we left in the heart of the Country among the Indians this being about the latter end of August and it was the beginning of May when we parted from them According to our expectation the Indians came aboard and brought our friends with them Mr. Wafer wore a Clout about him and was painted like an Indian and he was some time aboard before I knew him One of them named Richard Cobson dyed within 3 or 4 days after and was buryd on La Sounds Key After this we went to other Keys to the East-ward of these to meet Captain Wright and Captain Yanky who met with a Fleet of Pereagoes laden with Indian Corn Hog and Fowls going to Cartagene being convoyed by a small Armadilly of 2 Guns and 6 Patereroes Her they chaced ashore and most of the Pereagoes but they got two of them off and brought them away Here Captain Wright's and Captain Yanky's Barks were clean'd and we stock'd our selves with Corn and then went towards the Coast of Cartagene In our way thither we passed by the River of Darien which is very broad at the mouth but not above 6 foot water on a Spring tyde for the Tyde riseth but little here Captain Coxon about 6 months before we came out of the South Seas went up this River with a party of men Every man carry'd a small strong Bag to put his Gold in expecting great Riches there tho they got little or none They rowed up about 100 leagues before they came to any settlement and then found some Spaniards who lived there to truck with the Indians for Gold there being Gold Scales in
down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main and 9 or 10 from Querisao and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round The Road is on the S. W. side near the middle of the Island where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in Ships that come from the Eastward luff up close to the Eastern shore and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water within half a Cables length of the shore But at the same time they must be ready with a Boat to carry a Hasar or Rope and make it fast ashore otherwise when the Land-wind comes in the night the Ship would drive off to Sea again for the ground is so steep that no Anchor can hold if once it starts About half a mile to the Westward of this Anchoring place there is a small low Island and a Channel between it and the main Island The Houses are about half a mile within Land right in the Road There is a Governour lives here a Deputy to the Governor of Querisao and 7 or 8 Soldiers with 5 or 6 Families of Indians There is no Fort and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and sleep for they never watch but in time of War The Indians are Husband-men and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn and some Yames and Potatoes But their chiefest business is about Cattle for this Island is plentifully stocked with Goats and they send great quantities every year in Salt to Querisao There are some Horses and Bulls and Cows but I never saw any Sheep though I have been all over the Island The South side is plain low Land and there are several sorts of Trees but none very large There is a small Spring of water by the Houses which serves the Inhabitants though it is brackish At the West end of the Island there is a good Spring of Fresh water and 3 or 4 Indian Families live there but no Water nor Houses at any other place On the South side near the East-end is a good Salt-pond where Dutch Sloops come for Salt From Bon-Airy we went to the Isle of Aves or Birds so called from its great plenty of Birds as Men of War and Boobies but especially Boobies The Booby is a Water-fowl somewhat less than a Hen of a light greyish colour I observ'd the Boobies of this Island to be whiter than others This Bird hath a strong Bill longer and bigger than a Crows and broader at the end her Feet are flat like a Ducks Feet It is a very simple creature and will hardly go out of a mans way In other places they build their Nests on the ground but here they build on Trees which I never saw any where else tho I have seen of them in a great many places Their Flesh is black and eats Fishy but are often eaten by the Privateers Their numbers have been much lessen'd by the French Fleet which lay here till it was lost as I shall give an account The Man of War as it is called by the English is about the bigness of a Kite and in shape like it but black and the Neck is red It lives on Fish yet never lights on the Water but soars aloft like a Kite and when it sees its prey it flys down head foremost to the waters edge very swiftly takes his prey out of the Sea with his Bill and immediately mounts again as swiftly and never touching the Water but with his Bill His Wings are very long His Feet are like other Land-Fowl and he builds on Trees where he finds any but where they are wanting on the ground This Island Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the Eastward of the Island Bon-airy about 14 or 15 leagues from the Main and about the lat of 11d 45m North. It is but small not above 4 mile in length and towards the East end not half a mile broad On the North side it is low Land commonly overflown with the Tide but on the Southside there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea The West end is for near a mile space plain even Savanah Land without any Trees There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers who often frequent this Island because there is a good Harbor about the middle of it on the North side where they may conveniently careen The Riff or Bank of Rocks on which the French Fleet was lost as I mentioned above runs along from the East end to the Northward about 3 mile then tends away to the Westward making as it were a Half Moon This Riff breaks off all the Sea and there is good riding in even sandy ground to the Westward of it There are 2 or 3 small low sandy Keys or Islands within this Riff about 3 miles from the Main Island The Count de Estree lost his Fleet here in this manner Coming from the Eastward he fell in on the back of the Riff and fired Guns to give warning to the rest of his Fleet But they supposing their Admiral was engaged with Enemies hoised up their Topsails and crowded all the Sail they could make and ran full sail ashore after him all within half a mile of each other For his Light being in the Main Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow and there escaped but one Kings-ship and one Privateer The Ships continued whole all day and the Men had time enough most of them to get ashore yet many perished in the Wreck and many of those that got safe on the Island for want of being accustomed to such hardships died like rotten Sheep But the Privateers who had been used to such accidents lived merrily from whom I had this relation and they told me that if they had gone to Jamaica with 30 l. a Man in their Pockets they could not have enjoyed themselves more For they kept in a Gang by themselves and watched when the Ships broke to get the Goods that came from them and though much was staved against the Rocks yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff where these Privateers waited to take it up They lived here about 3 weeks waiting an opportunity to transport themselves back again to Hispaniola in all which time they were never without 2 or 3 Hogsheads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents and Barrels of Beef and Pork which they could live on without Bread well enough tho the new-comers out of France could not There were about 40 Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good store of Liquor till the after part of her broke away and floated over the Riff and was carry'd away to Sea with all the men drinking and singing who being in drink did not mind the danger but were never heard of afterwards In a short time after this great Shipwrack Captain Pain Commander of a Privateer of 6 Guns had a pleasant accident befel him at this Island He came hither to Careen intending to fit
without any Tree only some Dildo-bushes growing on them and I do believe there is no Water on any one of them for there was no appearance of any Water The two Northernmost we could not come near but the Southermost we came close by but could not strike ground till within two Cables length of the shore and there found it to be foul rocky ground From the time that we were in 10 degrees South till we came to these Islands we had the Wind between E. N. E. and the N. N. E. fair weather and a brisk gale The day that we made these Islands we saw great sholes of small Lobsters which coloured the Sea Red in spots for a mile in compass and we drew some of them out of the Sea in our Water-Buckets They were no bigger than the top of a Mans little finger yet all their Claws both great and small like a Lobster I never saw any of this sort of Fish naturally red but here for ours on the English Coast which are black naturally are not red till they are boil'd neither did I ever any where else meet with any Fish of the Lobster shape so small as these unless it may be Shrimps or Prawns Captain Swan and Captain Eaton met also with shoals of this Fish in much the same Latitude and Longitude Leaving therefore the Sible de Ward Islands as having neither good Anchorage nor Water we sailed on directing our course for the Streights of Magellan But the Winds hanging in the westerbord and blowing hard oft put us by our Topsails so that we could not fetch it The 6th day of February we fell in with the Streights Le Mair which is very high Land on both sides and the Streights very narrow We had the Wind at N. N. W. a fresh gale and seeing the opening of the Streights we ran in with it till within four mile of the mouth and then it fell calm and we found a strong tide setting out of the Streights to the Northward and like to founder our Ship but whether flood or ebb I know not only it made such a short cockling Sea as if we had been in a race or place where two tides meet For it ran every way sometimes breaking in over our Waste sometimes over our Poop sometimes over our Bow and the Ship tossed like an Egg-shell so that I never felt such uncertain jerks in a Ship At 8 a clock in the evening we had a small Breez at W. N. W. and steered away to the Eastward intending to go round the States Island the East end of which we reached the next day by noon having a fresh breez all night The 7th day at noon being off the East End of States Island I had a good observation of the Sun and found my self in lat 54 deg 52 min. South At the East end of States Island are three small Islands or rather Rocks pretty high and white with the Dung of Fowls Wherefore having observed the Sun we haled up South designing to pass round to the Southward of Cape Horne which is the Southermost Land of Terra del Fuego The Winds hung in the western quarter betwixt the N. W. and the West so that we could not get much to the Westward and we never saw Terra del Fuego after that evening that we made the Streight Le Mair I have heard that there have been Smokes and Fires on Terra del Fuego not on the tops of Hills but in Plains and Valleys seen by those who have sailed through the Streights of Magellan supposed to be made by the Natives We did not see the Sun at rising or setting in order to take an amplitude after we left the Sibble de Wards till we got into the South Seas therefore I know not whether the variation increased any more or no. Indeed I had an observation of the Sun at noon in lat 59 deg 30 min. and we were then standing to the Southward with the Wind at W. by N. and that night the Wind came about more to the Southward of the West and we tackt I was then in lat 60 by reckning which was the farthest South latitude that ever I was in The 14th day of February being in lat 57. and to the West of Cape Horne we had a violent Storm which held us till the third day of March blowing commonly at S. W. and S. W. by W. and W. S. W. thick weather all the time with small drizling Rain but not hard We made a shift however to save 23 Barrels of rain-Rain-water besides what we drest our Victuals withal March the third the Wind shifted at once and came about at South blowing a fierce gale of Wind soon after it came about to the Eastward and we stood into the South Seas The 9th day having an observation of the Sun not having seen it of late we found ourselves in lat 47 d. 10 m. and the variation to be but 15 d. 30 m. East The Wind stood at S. E. we had fair weather and a moderate gale and the 17th day we were in lat 36 by observation and then found the variation to be but 8 degrees East The 19th day when we looked out in the morning we saw a Ship to the Southward of us coming with all the Sail she could make after us we lay muzled to let her come up with us for we supposed her to be a Spanish Ship come from Baldivia bound to Lima we being now to the Northward of Baldivia and this being the time of the year when Ships that trade thence to Baldivia return home They had the same opinion of us and therefore made sure to take us but coming nearer we both found our mistakes This proved to be one Captain Eaton in a Ship sent purposely from London for the South Seas We hailed each other and the Captain came on board and told us of his actions on the Coast of Brazil and in the River of Plate He met Captain Swan one that came from England to trade here at the East Entrance into the Streights of Magellan and they accompanied each other through the Streights and were separated after they were through by the Storm before mentioned Both we and Captain Eaton being bound for John Fernando's Isle we kept company and we spared him Bread and Beef and he spared us Water which he took in as he passed through the Streights March the 22d 1684. we came in sight of the Island and the next day got in and anchored in a Bay at the South end of the Island in 25 fathom water not two Cables lengths from the shore We presently got out our Canoa and went ashore to see for a Moskito Indian whom we left here when we were chaced hence by three Spanish Ships in the year 1681. a little before we went to Arica Captain Watlin being then our Commander after Captain Sharp was turned out This Indian lived here alone above 3 years and altho he was several
laught at their temerity and asked them if they never saw any Spaniards before They told them that they themselves were Spaniards and that they lived among Spaniards and that altho they were born there yet they had never seen 3 Ships there before Our men told them that neither now might they have seen so many if it had not been on an urgent occasion At length they drill d them by discourse so near that our men lay d hold on all three at once but before Captain Cook was buried one of them made his escape the other two were brought off aboard our Ship Captain Eaton immediately came aboard and examined them they confessed that they came purposely to view our Ship and if possible to inform themselves what we were for the President of Panama not long before sent a Letter of advice to Nicoya informing the Magistrates thereof that some Enemies were come into these Seas and that therefore it behoved them to be careful of themselves Nicoya is a small Mulatto Town about 12 or 13 leagues East from hence standing on the Banks of a River of that name It is a place very fit for building Ships therefore most of the Inhabitants are Carpenters who are commonly imployed in building new or repairing old Ships It was here that Captain Sharp just after I left him in the year 1681 got Carpenters to fix his Ship before he returned for England and for that reason it behoved the Spaniards to be careful according to the Governor of Panama's advice lest any men at other times wanting such necessaries as that place afforded might again be supplied there These Spanish Indians told us likewise that they were sent to the place where they were taken in order to view our Ships as fearing these were those mentioned by the President of Panama It being demanded of them to give an account of the Estate and Riches of the Country they said that the Inhabitants were most Husbandmen who were imployed either in Planting and Manuring of Corn or chiefly about Cattle they having large Savannahs which were well stored with Bulls Cows and Horses that by the Sea side in some places there grew some Red-wood useful in Dying of this they said there was little profit made because they were forced to send it to the Lake of Nicaragua which runs into the North Seas that they sent thither also great quantities of Bull and Cow Hides and brought from thence in exchange Europe Commodities as Hats Linnen and Woollen wherewith they cloathed themselves that the flesh of the Cattle turned to no other profit than sustenance for their Families as for Butter and Cheese they make but little in those parts After they had given this Relation they told us that if we wanted Provision there was a Beef-estantion or Farm of Bulls or Cows about 3 mile off where we might kill what we pleas'd This was welcom news for we had no sort of Flesh since we left the Gallapagos therefore 24 of us immediately entered into two Boats taking one of these Spanish Indians with us for a Pilot and went ashore about a league from the Ship There we haled up our Boats dry and marched all away following our Guide who soon brought us to some Houses and a large Pen for Cattle This Pen stood in a large Savannah about 2 mile from our Boats There were a great many fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs some of us would have killed 3 or 4 to carry on board but others opposed it and said it was better to stay all night and in the morning drive the Cattle into the Pen and then kill 20 or 30 or as many as we pleased I was minded to return aboard and endeavoured to perswade them all to go with me but some would not therefore I returned with 12 which was half and left the other 12 behind At this place I saw 3 or 4 Tun of the Red-wood which I take to be that sort of Wood call'd in Jamaica Blood-wood or Nicaragua-wood We who returned aboard met no one to oppose us and the next day we expected our Consorts that we left ashore but none came therefore at 4 a Clock in the afternoon 10 men went in our Canoa to see what was become of them When they came to the Bay where we landed to go to the Estantion they found our men all on a small Rock half a mile from the shore standing in the Water up to their wastes These men had slept ashore in the house and turned out betimes in the morning to pen the Cattle 2 or 3 went one way and as many another way to get the Cattle to the Pen and others stood at the Pen to drive them in When they were thus scatter d about 40 or 50 armed Spaniards came in among them Our men immediately call'd to each other and drew together in a body before the Spaniard could attack them and marched to their Boat which was hal d up dry on the Sand. But when they came to the Sandy Bay they found their Boat all in flames This was a very unpleasing sight for they knew not how to get aboard unless they marched by land to the place where Captain Cook was buried which was near a league The greatest part of the way was thick Woods where the Spaniards might easily lay an Ambush for them at which they are very expert On the other side the Spaniards now thought them secure and therefore came to them and asked them if they would be pleased to walk to their Plantations with many other such flouts but our men answered never a word It was about half ebb when one of our men took notice of a Rock a good distance from the shore just appearing above Water he shew'd it to his Consorts and told them it would be a good Castle for them if they could get thither They all wisht themselves there for the Spaniards who lay as yet at a good distance from them behind the Bushes as secure of their prey began to whistle now and then a shot among them Having therefore well consider'd the place together with the danger they were in they proposed to send one of the tallest men to try if the Sea between them and the Rock were fordable This counsel they presently put in execution and found it according to their desire So they all marched over to the Rock where they remained till the Canoa came to them which was about 7 hours It was the latter part of the Ebb when they first went over and then the Rock was dry but when the Tyde of Flood returned again the Rock was cover'd and the Water still flowing so that if our Canoa had stay'd but one hour longer they might have been in as great danger of their lives from the Sea as before from the Spaniards for the Tyde riseth here about 8 foot The Spaniards remained on the shore expecting to see them destroy d but never came from behind the Bushes
where they first planted themselves they having not above 3 or 4 Hand-guns the rest of them being arm'd with Lances The Spaniards in these parts are very expert in heaving or darting the Lance with which upon occasion they will do great feats especially in Ambuscades and by their good will they care not for fighting otherwise but content themselves with standing aloof threatning and calling names at which they are as expert as the other so that if their Tongues be quiet we always take it for granted they have laid some Ambush Before night our Canoa came aboard and brought our men all safe The next day two Canoas were sent to the bottom of the Bay to seek for a large Canoa which we were inform d was there The Spaniards have neither Ships nor Barks here and but a few Canoas which they seldom use neither are there any Fishermen here as I judge because Fish is very scarce for I never saw any here neither could any of our men ever take any and yet where ever we come to an Anchor we always send out our Strikers and put out our Hooks and Lines over-board to try for Fish The next day our men return'd out of the Bay and brought the Canoa with them which they were sent for and 3 or 4 days afterward the 2 Canoas were sent out again for another which they likewise brought aboard These Canoas were fitted with Thoats or Benches Straps and Oars fit for service and one of these Captain Eaton had for his share and we the other which we fixt for landing men when occasion required While we lay here we filled our Water and cut a great many Looms or Handles or Staves for Oars for here is plenty of Lancewood which is most proper for that use I never saw any in the South Seas but in this place there is plenty of it in Jamaica especially at a place called Blewfields not Blewfields River which is on the Main near the West end of that Island The Lancewood grows strait like our young Ashes it is very hard tough and heavy therefore Privateers esteem it very much not only to make Looms for Oars but Scowring-Rods for their Guns for they have seldom less than 3 or 4 spare Rods for fear one should break and they are much better than Rods made of Ash. The day before we went from hence Mr. Edward Davis the Company 's Quarter-master was made Captain by consent of all the Company for it was his place by Succession The 20th day of July we sailed from this Bay of Caldera with Captain Eaton and our Prize which we brought from Gallapagos in company directing our course for Ria Lexa The Wind was at North which although but an ordinary Wind yet it carried us in three days abrest of our intended Port. Ria Lexa is the most remarkable Land on all this Coast for there is a high peeked burning Mountain called by the Spaniards Volean-Vejo or the Old Volcan This must be brought to bare N. E. then steer in directly with the Mountain and that course will bring you to the Harbour The Sea Winds are here at S. S. W. therefore Ships that come hither must take the Sea-winds for there is no going in with the Land-wind The Volcan may be easily known because there is not any other so high a Mountain near it neither is there any that appears in the like form all along the Coast besides it smoaks all the day and in the night it sometimes sends forth flames of fire This Mountain may be seen 20 leagues being within 3 leagues of the Harbor the entrance into it may be seen there is a small flat low Island which makes the Harbor it is about a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad and is from the Main about a mile and half There is a Channel at each end of the Island the West Channel is the widest and safest yet at the N. W. point of the Island there is a shole which Ships must take heed of in going in Being past that shole you must keep close to the Island for there is a whole sandy point strikes over from the Main almost half way The East Channel is not so wide besides there runs a stronger tide therefore Ships seldom or never go in that way This Harbor is capable of receiving 200 Sail of Ships the best riding is near the Main where there is 7 or 8 fathom water clean hard Sand. Ria Lexa Town is 2 leagues from hence and there are 2 Creeks that run towards it the Westermost comes near the backside of the Town the other runs up to the Town but neither Ships nor Barks can go so far These Creeks are very narrow and the Land on each side drowned and full of Red Mangrove-trees About a mile and half below the Town on the banks of the East Creek the Spaniards had cast up a strong Breast-work it was likewise reported they had another on the West Creek both so advantageously placed that 10 men might with ease keep 200 men from landing I shall give a description of the Town in my return hither and therefore forbear to do it here Wherefore to resume the thread of our course we were now in sight of the Volcan being by estimation 7 or 8 leagues from the shore and the Mountain bearing N. E. we took in our Topsails and hal'd up our Courses intending to go with our Canoas into the Harbor in the night In the evening we had a very hard Tornado out of the N. E. with much Thunder Lightening and Rain The violence of the Wind did not last long yet it was 11 a clock at night before we got out our Canoas and then it was quite calm We rowed in directly for the shore and thought to have reach'd it before day but it was 9 a clock in the morning before we got into the Harbor When we came within a league of the Island of Ria Lexa that makes the Harbor we saw a House on it and coming nearer we saw 2 or 2 men who stood and looked on us till we came within half a mile of the Island then they went into their Canoa which lay on the inside of the Island and rowed towards the Main but we overtook them before they got over and brought them back again to the Island There was a Horseman right against us on the Main when we took the Canoa who immediately rode away towards the Town as fast as he could The rest of onr Canoas rowed heavily and did not come to the Island till 12 a clock therefore we were forced to stay for them Before they came we examined the Prisoners who told us that they were set there to watch for the Governor of Ria Lexa received a Letter about a month before wherein he was advised of some Enemies come into the Sea and therefore admonished to be careful that immediately thereupon the Governor had caused a House to be built on this
sandy bearing only a few shrubby Trees These Indians plant no manner of Grain or Root but are supplied from other places and commonly keep a stock of Provision to relieve Ships that want for this is the first Settlement that Ships can touch at which come from Panama bound to Lima or any other Port in Peru. The Land being dry and sandy is not fit to produce Crops of Maize which is the reason they plant none There is a Spring of good Water between the Village and the Seas On the back of the Town a pretty way up in the Country there is a very high Mountain towring up like a Sugar-loaf called Monte-Christo It is a very good Sea-mark for there is none like it on all the Coast. The body of this Mountain bears due South from Manta About a mile and half from the Shore right against the Village there is a Rock which is very dangerous because it never appears above water neither doth the Sea break on it because here is seldom any great Sea yet it is now so well known that all Ships bound to this place do easily avoid it A mile within this Rock there is good Anchoring in 6 8 or 10 fathom Water good hard Sand and clear ground And a mile from the Road on the West side there is a shole running out a mile into the Sea From Manta to Cape St. Lorenzo the Land is plain and even of an indifferent heighth See a further account of these Coasts in the Appendix As soon as ever the day appear'd our men landed and march'd towards the Village which was about a mile and a half from their Landing-place Some of the Indians who were stirring saw them coming and alarmed their Neighbours so that all that were able got away They took only two old Women who both said that it was reported that a great many Enemies were come over land thro the Country of Darien into the South Seas and that they were at present in Canoas and Periagoes and that the Vice-Roy upon this news had set out the fore-mentioned order for burning their own Ships Our men found no sort of provision here the Vice-Roy having likewise sent orders to all Sea-ports to keep no provision but just to supply themselves These Women also said that the Manta Indians were sent over to the Island Plata to destroy all the Goats there which they performed about a month agone With this news our men returned again and arriv'd at Plata the next day We lay still at the Island Plata being not resolved what to do till the 2d day of October and then Captain Swan in the Cygnet of London arriv'd there He was fitted out by very eminent Merchants of that City on a design only to trade with the Spaniards or Indians having a very considerable Cargo well sorted for these parts of the World but meeting with divers disappointments and being out of hopes to obtain a trade in these Seas his men forc'd him to entertain a company of Privateers which he met with near Nicoya a Town whither he was going to seek a Trade and these Privateers were bound thither in Boats to get a Ship These were the men that we had heard of at Manta they came over land under the command of Captain Peter Harris Nephew to that Captain Harris who was kill'd before Panama Captain Swan was still Commander of his own Ship and Captain Harris commanded a small Bark under Captain Swan There was much joy on all sides when they arriv'd and immediately hereupon Captain Davis and Captain Swan consorted wishing for Captain Eaton again Our little Bark which was taken at Santa Hellena was immediately sent out to cruize while the Ships were fitting for Captain Swan's Ship being full of goods was not fit to entertain his new guest till the goods were dispos'd of therefore he by the consent of the Supercargo's got up all his goods on Deck and sold to any one that would buy upon trust the rest was thrown over-board into the Sea except fine goods as Silks Muslins Stockings c. and except the Iron whereof he had a good quantity both wrought and in Bars This was saved for Ballast The third day after our Bark was sent to cruize she brought in a Prize of 400 Tuns laden with Timber They took her in the Bay of Guiaquil she came from a Town of that name and was bound to Lima. The Commander of this Prize said that it was generally reported and believed at Guiaquil that the Vice-Roy was fitting out 10 sail of Frigots to drive us out of the Seas This news made our unsettled Crew wish that they had been perswaded to accept of Captain Eaton's company on reasonable terms Captain Davis and Captain Swan had some discourse concerning Captain Eaton they at last concluded to send our small Bark towards the Coast of Lima as far as the Island Lobos to seek Captain Eaton This being approved by all hands she was cleaned the next day and sent away mann'd with 20 men 10 of Captain Davis and 10 of Swan's men and Captain Swan writ a Letter directed to Captain Eaton desiring his company and the Isle of Plata was appointed for the general Rendezvous When this Bark was gone we turn'd another Bark which we had into a Fire-ship having 6 or 7 Carpenters who soon fixt her and while the Carpenters were at work about the Fire-ship we scrubb'd and clean'd our Men of War as well as time and place would permit The 19th day of October we finish'd our business and the 20th day we sail'd toward the Island Lobos where our Bark was order'd to stay for us or meet us again at Plata We had but little Wind therefore it was the 23d day before we passed by Point St. Hellena The 25th day we crossed over the Bay of Guiaquil The 30th day we doubled Cape Blanco This Cape is in lat 3 d. 45 m. It is counted the worst Cape in all the South Seas to double passing to the Southward for in all other places Ships may stand off to Sea 20 or 30 leagues off if they find they cannot get any thing under the shore but here they dare not do it for by relation of the Spaniards they find a current setting N. W. which will carry a Ship off more in 2 hours than they can run in again in 5. Besides setting to the Northward they lose ground therefore they alway beat it up under the shore which oft-times they find very difficult because the wind commonly blows very strong at S. S. W. or S. by W. without altering for here are never any Land-winds This Cape is of an indifferent heighth It is fenced with white Rocks to the Sea for which reason I believe it hath this name The Land in the Country seems to be full of high steep rugged and barren Rocks The 2d day of November we got as high as Payta We lay about 6 leagues off shore all the day that the
We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company viz. Captain Davis Captain Swan a Fireship and 2 small Barks as Tenders one on Captain Davis his Ship the other on Captain Swan's We weighed before day and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender which never budged for the men were all asleep when we went out and the Tide of flood coming on before they waked we were forced to stay for them till the next day The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the West of us the Wind was at South and we chased her and before noon took her She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower she came from Truxillio and was bound to Panama This Ship came very opportunely to us for Flower began to grow scarce and Captain Davis his men grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan who as I said before had none but what he had from Captain Davis We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgonia an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island Gallo The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia on the West side of the Island in 38 fathom clean ground not 2 Cables length from the shore Gorgonia is an uninhabited Island in lat about 3 degrees North It is a pretty high Island and very remarkable by reason of 2 saddles or risings and fallings on the top It is about 2 leagues long and a league broad and it is 4 leagues from the Main At the West-end is another small Island The Land against the Anchoring place is low there is a small sandy Bay and good landing The Soil or Mold of it is black and deep in the low ground but on the side of the high Land it is a kind of a red clay This Island is very well cloathed with large Trees of several sorts that are flourishing and green all the year It 's very well watered with small Brooks that issue from the high Land Here are a great many little black Monkeys some Indian Conies and a few Snakes which are all the Land Animals that I know there It is reported of this Island that it rains on every day in the year more or less but that I can disprove however it is a very wet Coast and it rains abundantly here all the year long There are but few fair days for there is little difference in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry only in that season which should be the dry time the rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the wet season for then it pours as out of a Sieve It is deep water and no anchoring any where about this Island only at that West side The Tyde riseth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down Here are a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low water Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea side and catch them digging them out of their Shells with their Claws Here are Pearl-Oysters in great plenty They grow to the loose Rocks in 4 5 or 6 fathom water by beards or little small roots as a Muscle These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters otherwise much alike in shape The fish is not sweet nor very wholsome it is as slimy as a Shell-Snail they taste very copperish if eaten raw and are best boyl'd The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards hang the meat of them on strings like Jews-ears and dry them before they eat them The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster lying between the meat and the shell Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed-Pearl some none at all and some will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones The inside of the shell is more glorious than the Pearl itfelf I did never see any in the South Seas but here It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia In the West Indies the Rancho Rejs or Rancheria spoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully 'T is said there are some at the Island Margarita near St. Augustin a Town in the Gulf of Florida c. In the East Indies The Island Ainam near the South end of China is said to have plenty of these Oysters more productive of large round Pearl than those in other other places They are found also in other parts of the East Indies on the Persian Coast. At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize and found a few Boxes of Marmalade and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy which were equally shared between Captain Davis Captain Swan and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands We were now 6 Sail 2 Men of War 2 Tenders a Fireship and the Prize We had but little Wind but what we had was the common Trade at South The Land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the Sea side but in the Country there are very high Mountains The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes This Cape is in lat 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land with 3 or 4 small Hillocks on the top It appears at a distance like an Island Here we found a strong current running to the North but whether it be always so I know not The day after we passed by the Cape we saw a small white Island which we chased supposing it had been a Sail till coming near we found our error The 21st day we saw Point Garrachina This Point is in lat 7 d. 20 m. North it is pretty high Land rocky and destitute of Trees yet within Land it is Woody It is fenced with Rocks against the Sea Within the Point by the Sea at low Water you may find store of Oysters and Muscles The Kings Islands or Pearl Keys are about 12 leagues distant from this Point Between Point Garqchina and them there is a small low flat barren Island called Gallera at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Sancta Maria which I spake of a little before when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks fitted out on purpose at Panama came upon him but he fought them so stoutly with one small Bark he had and some few Canoas boarding their Admiral particularly that they were all glad to leave him By this Island we anchored and sent our Boats to the Kings Islands for a a good careening place The Kings Islands are a great many low woody Islands lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main and 14 leagues in length and from Panama about 12 leagues Why they are called the Kings Islands I know not they are sometimes and mostly in Maps called the Pearl Islands I cannot imagin wherefore they are called so for I did
his Men. They were coming out of the River in the night and took 2 Barks bound for Panama the one was laden with Flower the other with Wine Brandy Sugar and Oyl The Prisoners that he took declared that that the Lima Fleet was ready to sail We went and anchored among the Kings Islands and the next day Captain Swan returned out of the River of Santa Maria being informed by the Indians that Captain Townley was come over to the Kings Islands At this place Captain Townley put out a great deal of his Goods to make room for his Men. He distributed his Wine and Brandy soâ—…e to every Ship that it might be drunk out because he wanted the Jars to carry Water in The Spaniards in these Seas carry all their Wine Brandy and Oyl in Jars that hold 7 or 8 Gallons When they lade at Pisco a place about 40 leagues to the Southward of Lima and famous for Wine they bring nothing else but Jars of Wine and they sâ—…ow one tier on the top of another so artificially that we could hardly do the like without breaking them yet they often carry in this manner 1500 or 2000 or more in a Ship and seldom break one The 10th day we took a small Bark that came from Guiaquil she had nothing in her but Ballast The 12th day there came an Indian Canoa out of the River of Santa Maria and told us that there were 300 English and French men more coming over Land from the North Seas The 15th day we met a Bark with 5 or 6 English men in her that belonged to Captain Knight who had been in the South Seas 5 or 6 months and was now on the Mexican Coast. There he had spied this Bark but not being able to come up with her in his Ship he detach'd these 5 or 6 Men in a Canoa who took her but when they had done could not recover their own Ship again losing company with her in the night and therefore they came into the Bay of Panama intending to go over land back into the North Seas but that they luckily met with us for the Isthmus of Darien was now become a common Road for Privateers to pass between the North and South Seas at their pleasure This Bark of Captain Knight's had in her 40 or 50 Jars of Brandy she was now commanded by Mr. Henry More but Captain Swan intending to promote Captain Harris caused Mr. More to be turned out alledging that it was very likely these Men were run away from their Commander Mr. More willingly resigned her and went aboard of Captain Swan and became one of his Men. It was now the latter end of the dry season here and the Water at the Kings or Pearl Islands of which there was plenty when we first came hither was now dried away Therefore we were forced to go to Point Garachina thinking to water our Ships there Captain Harris being now Commander of the new Bark was sent into the River of Santa Maria to see for those Men that the Indians told us of whilst the rest of the Ships sailed towards Point Garachina where we arriv'd the 21st day and anchored 2 mile from the Point and found a strong Tide running out of the River Sambo The next day we run within the Point and anchored in 4 fathom at low water The Tide riseth here 8 or 9 foot the Flood sets N. N. E. the Ebb S. S. W. The Indians that inhabit in the River Sambo came to us in Canoas and brought Plantains and Bonanoes They could not speak nor understand Spanish therefore I believe they have no Commerce with the Spaniards We found no fresh Water here neither so we went from hence to Port Pinas which is 7 leagues S. by W. from hence Porto Pinas lieth in lat 7 d. North. It is so called because there are many Pine-trees growing there The Land is pretty high rising gently as it runs into the Country This Country near the Sea is all covered with pretty high Woods the Land that bounds the Harbor is low in the middle but high and rocky at both sides At the mouth of the Harbor there are 2 small high Islands or rather barren Rocks The Spaniards in their Pilot Books commend this for a good Harbour but it lieth all open to the S. W. Winds which frequentlly blow here in the wet season besides the Harbor within the Islands is a place of but small extent and hath a very narrow going in what depth of Water there is in the Harbor I know not The 25th day we arrived at this Harbor of Pines but did not go in with our Ships finding it but an ordinary place to lye at We sent in our Boats to search it and they found a stream of good Water running into the Sea but there were such great swelling surges came into the Harbor that we could not conveniently fill our Water there The 26th day we returned to Point Garachina again In our way we took a small Vessel laden with Cacao she came from Guiaquil The 29th day we arrived at Point Garachina There we found Captain Harris who had been in the River of Santa Maria but he did not meet the Men that he went for Yet he was informed again by the Indians that they were making Canoas in one of the branches of the River of Santa Maria. Here we shared our Cacao lately taken Because we could not fill our Water here we designed to go to Tabago again where we were sure to be supplied Accordingly on the 30th day we set sail being now 9 Ships in company and had a small Wind at S. S. E. The first day of April being in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main we had much Thunder Lightning and some Rain This evening we anchored at the Island Pacheque and immediately sent 4 Canoas before us to the Island Tabago to take some Prisoners for information and we followed the next day The 3d day in the evening we anchored by Perica and the next morning went to Tabago where we found our 4 Canoas They arrived there in the night and took a Canoa that came as is usual from Panama for Plantains There were in the Canoa 4 Indians and a Mulata The Mulata because he said he was in the Fireship that came to burn us in the night was immediately hang'd These Prisoners confirmed that one Captain Bond an English man did command her Here we fill'd our Water and cut Fire-wood and from hence we sent 4Canoas over to the Main with one of the Indians lately taken to guide them to a Sugar-work for now we had Cacao we wanted Sugar to make Chocolate But the chiefest of their business was to get Coppers for each Ship having now so many Men our Pots would not boil Victuals fast enough though we kept them boiling all the day About 2 or 3 days after they returned aboard with 3 Coppers While we lay here Captain Davis his Bark went
and small The Hill Petaplan A poor Indian Village Jew fish Chequetan a good Harbour Estapa Muscles there A Caravan of Mules taken A Hill near Thelupan The Coast here abouts The Volcan Town Valley and Bay of Colima Sallagua Port. Oarrha Ragged Hills Coronada or the Crown-Land Cape Corrientes Isles of Chametly The City Purification Valderas or the Valley of Flags They miss their design on this Coast. Captain Townly leaves them with the Darien Indians The Point and Isles of Pontique Other Isles of Chametly The Penguin fruit the yellow and the red Seals here Of the River of Cullacan and the Trade of a Town there with California Massaclan River and Town of Rosario Caput Cavalli and another Hill The difficulty of Intelligence on this Coast. The River of Oleta River of St. Jago Maxentelba Rock and Zelisco Hill Sancta Pechaque Town in the River of St. Jago Of Compostella Many of them cut off at Sancta Pecaque Of California whether an Island or not and of the North West and North East Passage A Method proposed for Discovery of the North West and North East Passages Isle of Santa Maria. A prickly Plant. Captain Swan proposes a Voyage to the East Indies Valley of Balderas again and Cape Corrientes The reason of their ill Success on the Mexican Coast and Departure thence for the East Indies IT was the 12th of October 1685 when we set out of the Harbour of Guatulco with our Ships The Land here lies along West and a little Southerly for about 20 or 30 leagues and the Sea Winds are commonly at W. S. W. sometimes at S. W. the Land Winds at N. We had now fair weather and but little Wind. We coasted along to the Westward keeping as near the shore as we could for the benefit of the Land Winds for the Sea Winds were right against us and we found a current setting to the Eastward which kept us back and obliged us to anchor at the Island Sacrificio which is a small green Island about half a mile long It lieth about a league to the West of Guatulco and about half a mile from the Main There seems to be a fine Bay to the West of the Island but it is full of Rocks The best riding is between the Island and the Main there you will have 5 or 6 fathom Water Here runs a pretty strong tide the Sea riseth and falleth 5 or 6 foot up and down The 18th day we sailed from hence coasting to the Westward after our Canoas We kept near the shore which was all sandy Bays the Country pretty high and woody and a great Sea tumbling in upon the shore The 22d day 2 of our Canoas came aboard and told us they had been a great way to the Westward but could not find Port Angels They had attempted to land the day before at a place where they saw a great many Bulls and Cows feeding in hopes to get some of them but the Sea run so high that they over-set both Canoas and wet all their Arms and lost 4 Guns and had one Man drown'd and with much ado got off again They could give no account of the other 2 Canoas for they lost company the first night that they went from Guatulco and had not seen them since We were now abrest of Port Angels though our men in the Canoas did not know it therefore we went in and anchored there This is a broad open Bay with 2 or 3 Rocks at the West side Here is good anchoring all over the Bay in 30 or 20 or 12 fathom Water but you must ride open to all Winds except the Land Winds till you come into 12 or 13 fathom Water then you are sheltered from the W. S. W. which are the common Trade Winds The Tide riseth here about 5 foot the Flood sets to the N. E. and the Ebb to the S. W. The landing in this Bay is bad the place of landing is close by the West side behind a few Rocks here always goes a great swell The Spaniards compare this Harbour for goodness to Guatulco but there is a great difference between them For Guatulco is almost Landlocked and this is an open road and no one would easily know it by their Character of it but by its marks and its latitude which is 15 d. North. For this reason our Canoas which were sent from Guatulco and ordered to tarry here for us did not know it not thinking this to be that fine Harbour and therefore went farther 2 of them as I said before returned again but the other 2 were not yet come to us The Land that bounds this Harbour is pretty high the Earth sandy and yellow in some places red it is partly Woodland partly Savannahs The Trees in the Woods are large and tall and the Savannahs are plentifully stored with very kindly Grass Two leagues to the East of this place is a Beef Farm belonging to Don Diego de la Rosa. The 23 day we landed about 100 men and marched thither where we found plenty of fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs and in the House good store of Salt and Maiz and some Hogs and Cocks and Hens but the owners or overseers were gone We lay here 2 or 3 days feasting on fresh provision but could not contrive to carry any quantity aboard because the way was so long and our men but weak and a great wide River to ford Therefore we return'd again from thence the 26th day and brought every one a little Beef or Pork for the men that stay'd aboard The two nights that we stay'd ashore at this place we heard great droves of Jaccals as we suppos'd them to be barking all night long not far from us None of us saw these but I do verily believe they were Jaccals tho I did never see those Creatures in America nor hear any but at this time We could not think that there were less than 30 or 40 in a company We got aboard in the evening but did not yet hear any news of our two Canoas The 27th day in the morning we sailed from hence with the Land Wind at N. by W. The Sea Wind came about noon at W. S. W. and in the evening we anchored in 16 fathom water by a small rocky Island which lieth about half a mile from the Main and 6 leagues Westward from Port Angels The Spaniards give no account of this Island in their Pilot-book The 28th day we sailed again with the Land Wind in the afternoon the Sea breez blew hard and we sprung our Main Topmast This Coast is full of small Hills and Valleys and a great Sea falls in upon the shore In the night we met with the other 2 of our Canoas that went from us at Guatulco They had been as far as Acapulco to seek Port Angells Coming back from thence they went into a River to get Water and were encounterd by 150 Spaniards yet they fill'd their Water in spight of them but
were perfectly at a loss to find out the Houses or Town they came from The 28th day being tired and hopeless to find any Town we went aboard our Ships that were now come abrest of the place where we were for always when we leave our Ships we either order a certain place of meeting or else leave them a sign to know where we are by making one or more great Smoaks yet we had all like to have been ruin'd by such a signal as this in a former Voyage under Captain Sharp when we made that unfortunate attempt upon Arica which is mentioned in the History of the Buccaneers For upon the routing our Men and taking several of them some of those so taken told the Spaniards that it was agreed between them and their Companions on board to make two great Smokes at a distance from each other assoon as the Town should be taken as a signal to the Ship that it might safely enter the Harbour The Spaniards made these Smokes presently I was then among those who stay'd on board and whether the signal was not so exactly made or some other discouragement happen'd I remember not but we forbore going in till we saw our scatter'd Crew coming off in their Canoas Had we entred the Port upon the false signal we must have been taken or sunk for we must have past close by the Fort and could have had no Wind to bring us out till the Land-wind should rise in the night But to our present Voyage After we came aboard we saw the Volcan of Colima This is a very high Mountain in about 18d 36m North standing 5 or 6 leagues from the Sea in the midst of a pleasant Valley It appears with 2 sharp peeks from each of which there do always issue flames of fire or smoke The Valley in which this Volcan stands is called the Valley of Colima from the Town itself which stands there not far from the Volcan The Town is said to be great and rich the chief of all its Neighborhood and the Valley in which it is seated by the relation which the Spaniards give of it is the most pleasant and fruitful Valley in all the Kingdom of Mexico This Valley is about 10 or 12 leagues wide by the Sea where it makes a small Bay but how far the Vale runs into the Country I know not It is said to befull of Cacao gardens fields of Corn Wheat and Plantain-walks The neighbouring Sea is bounded with a sandy shore but there is no going ashore for the violence of the waves The Land within it is low all along and Woody for about 2 leagues from the East side at the end of the Woods there is a deep River runs out into the Sea but it hath such a great Bar or Sandy shole that when we were here no Boat or Canoa could possibly enter the Sea running so high upon the Bar otherwise I judge we should have made some farther discovery into this pleasant Valley On the West side of the River the Savannah land begins and runs to the other side of the Valley We had but little wind when we came aboard therefore we lay off this Bay that afternoon and the night ensuing The 29th day our Captains went away from our Ships with 200 men intending at the first convenient place to land and search about for a path for the Spanish Books make mention of 2 or 3 other Towns hereabouts especially one called Sallagua to the West of this Bay Our Canoas rowed along as near the shore as they could but the Sea went so high that they could not land About 10 or 11 a clock 2 Horsemen came near the shore and one of them took a Bottle out of his pocket and drank to ourmen While he was drinking one of our men snatcht up his Gun and let drive at him and kill'd his Horse so his consort immediately set Spurs to his Horse and rode away leaving the other to come after afoot But he being Booted made but slow haste therefore 2 of our men stript themselves and swam ashore to take him but he had a Macheat or long Knife wherewith he kept them both from seizing him they having nothing in their hands wherewith to defend themselves or offend him The 30th day our men came all aboard again for they could not find any place to land in The first day of December we passed by the Port of Sallagua This Port is in lat 18 d. 52 m. It is only a pretty deep Bay divided in the middle with a rocky point which makes as it were two Harbours Ships may ride securely in either but the West Harbour is the best there is good anchoring any where in 10 or 12 fathom and a Brook of fresh Water runs into the Sea Here we saw a great new thatched House and a great many Spaniards both Horse and Foot with Drums beating and Colours flying in defiance of us as we thought We took no notice of them till the next morning and then we landed about 200 Men to try their Courage but they presently withdrew The Foot never stay'd to exchange one shot but the Horsemen stay'd till 2 or 3 were knocked down and then they drew off our Men pursuing them At last 2 of our Men took 2 Horses that had lost their Riders and mounting them rode after the Spaniards full drive till they came among them thinking to have taken a Prisoner for Intelligence but had like to have been taken themselves for 4 Spaniards surrounded them after they had discharged their Pistols and unhorsed them and if some of our best Footmen had not come to their rescue they must have yielded or have been killed They were both cut in 2 or 3 places but their wounds were not mortal The 4 Spaniards got away before our Men could hurt them and mounting their Horses speeded after their Consorts who were marched away into the Country Our Men finding a broad Road leading into the Country followed it about 4 leagues in a dry stony Country full of short Woods but finding no sign of Inhabitants they returned again In their way back they took two Mulatto's who were not able to march as fast as their Consorts therefore they had skulked in the Woods and by that means thought to have escaped our Men. These Prisoners informed us that this great Road did lead to a great City called Oarrha from whence many of those Horsemen before spoken of came that this City was distant from hence as far as a Horse will go in 4 days and that there is no place of consequence nearer that the Country is very poor and thinly inhabited They said also that these Men came to assist the Phillippine Ship that was every day expected here to put ashore Passengers for Mexico The Spanish Pilot-Books mention a Town also called Sallagua hereabouts but we could not find it nor hear any thing of it by our Prisoners We now intended to cruize off of Cape
the Horse-men had each abrace of Pistols and some short Guns If the Foot had come in they had certainly destroy'd all our men When the skirmish was over our men plac'd the two wounded men on Horses and came to their Canoas There they kill'd one of the Horses and drest it being afraid to venture into the Savannah to kill a Bullock of which there was store When they had eaten and satisfy'd themselves they returned aboard The 25th day being Christmas we cruized in pretty near the Cape and sent in 3 Canoas with the Strikers to get Fish being desirous to have a Christmas dinner In the afternoon they returned aboard with 3 great Jew-fish which feasted us all and the next day we sent ashore our Canoas again and got 3 or 4 more Captain Townly who went from us at Chametly came aboard the 28th day and brought about 40 bushels of Maiz. He had landed to the Eastward of Cape Corrientes and march'd to an Indian Village that is 4 or 5 leagues in the Country The Indians seeing him coming set 2 houses on fire that were full of Maiz and run away Yet he and his men got in other houses as much as they could bring down on their backs which he brought aboard We cruized off the Cape till the first day of January 1686 and then made towards the Valley Valderas to hunt for Beef and before night we anchored in the bottom of the Bay in 60 fathom water a mile from the shore Here we stay'd hunting till the 7th day and Captain Swan and Captain Townly went ashore every morning with about 240 men and marched to a small hill where they remain'd with 50 or 60 men to watch the Spaniards who appear'd in great companies on other hills not far distant but did never attempt any thing against our men Here we kill'd and salted above 2 months meat besides what we spent fresh and might have kill'd as much more if we had been better stor'd with Salt Our hopes of meeting the Philippine Ship were now over for we did all conclude that while we were necessitated to hunt here for Provisions she was past by to the Eastward as indeed she was as we did understand afterwards by Prisoners So this design fail'd through Captain Townley's eagerness after the Lima Ship which he attempted in Acapulco Harbour as as I have related For though we took a little Flower hard by yet the same Guide which told us of that Ship would have conducted us where we might had store of Beef and Maiz but instead thereof we lost both our time and the opportunity of providing our selves and so were forced to be victualling when we should have been cruizing off Cape Corrientes in expectation of the Manila Ship Hitherto we had coasted along here with 2 different designs The one was to get the Manila Ship which would have enriched us beyond measure and this Captain Townly was most for Sir Tho. Cavendish formerly took the Manila Ship off Cape St. Lucas in California where we also would have waited for her had we been early enough stored with Provisions to have met her there and threw much rich Goods over-board The other design which Captain Swan and our Crew were most for was to search along the Coast for rich Towns and Mines chiefly of Gold and Silver which we were assured were in this Country and we hoped near the shore not knowing as we afterwards found that it was in effect an Inland Country its Wealth remote from the South Sea Coast and having little or no commerce with it its Trade being driven Eastward with Europe by La Vera Cruz. Yet we had still some expectation of Mines and so resolved to steer on farther Northward But Captain Townly who had no other design in coming on this Coast but to meet this Ship resolved to return again towards the Coast of Peru. In all this Voyage on the Mexican Coast we had with us a Captain and 2 or 3 of his Men of our friendly Inaians of the Isthmus of Darien who having conducted over some Parties of our Privateers and expressing a desire to go along with us were received and kindly entertained aboard our Ships and we were pleas'd in having by this means Guides ready provided should we be for returning over Land as several of us thought to do rather than sail round about But at this time we of Captain Swan's Ship designing farther to the North West and Captain Townly going back we committed these our Indian Friends to his care to carry them home So here we parted he to the East-ward and we to the Westward intending to search as far to the Westward as the Spaniards were settled It was the 7th day of January in the morning when we sailed from this pleasant Valley The Wind was at N. E. and the weather fair At 11 a clock the Sea-wind came at N. W. Before night we passed by Point Pontique this is the West point of the Bay of the Valley of Valderas and is distant from Cape Corrientes 10 leagues This point is in lat 20 d. 50 m. North it is high round rocky and barren At a distance it appears like an Island A league to the West of this point are two small barren Islands called the Islands of Pontique There are several high sharp white Rocks that lye scattering about them we past between these rocky Islands on the left and the Main on the right for there is no danger The Sea-coast beyond this point runs Northward for about 18 leagues making many ragged points with small sandy Bays between them The Land by the Sea side is low and pretty woody but in the Country full of high sharp barren rugged unpleasant Hills The 14th day we had sight of a small white Rock which appears very much like a Ship under sail This Rock is in lat 21 d. 15 m. it is 3 leagues from the Main There is a good Channel between it and the Main where you will have 12 or 14 fathom water near the Island but running nearer the Main you will have gradual soundings till you come in with the shore At night we anchored in 6 fathom water near a league from the Main in good oazy ground We caught a great many Cat-fish here and at several places on this Coast both before and after this From this Island the Land runs more Northerly making a fair sandy Bay But the Sea falls in with such violence on the Shore that there is no landing but very good anchoring on all the Coast and gradual soundings About a league off shore you will have 6 fathom and 4 mile off shore you will have 7 fathom water We came to an anchor every evening and in the mornings we sailed off with the Land-wind which we found at N. E. and the Sea-breezes at N. W. The 20th day we anchored about 3 miles on the East side of the Islands Chametly different from those of that name before-mentioned for
we came I mean by the North West I know there have been divers attempts made about a North West Passage and all unsuccessful yet I am of opinion that such a Passage may be found All our Countrymen that have gone to discover the N. W. Passage have endeavoured to pass to the Westward beginning their search along Davis's or Hudsons Bay But if I was to go on this Discovery I would go first into the South Seas bend my course from thence along by California and that way seek a Passage back into the West Seas For as others have spent the Summer in first searching on this more known side nearer home and so before they got through the time of the year obliged them to give over their search and provide for a long course back again for fear of being left in the Winter on the contrary I would search first on the less known Coasts of the South Sea side and then as the year past away I should need no retreat for I should come farther into my knowledge if I succeeded in my attempt and should be without that dread and fear which the others must have in passing from the known to the unknown who for ought I know gave over their search just as they were on the point of accomplishing their desires I would take the same method if I was to go to discover the North East Passage I would winter about Japan Corea or the North East part of China and taking the Spring and Summer before me I would make my first Trial on the Coast of Tartary wherein if I succeeded I should come into some known parts and have a great deal of time before me to reach Archangel or some other Port. Captain Wood indeed says this North East Passage is not to be found for Ice but how often do we see that sometimes designs have been given over as impossible and at another time and by other ways those very things have been accomplished But enough of this The next day after that fatal Skirmish near Santa Pecaque Captain Swan ordered all our Water to be fill d and to get ready to sail The 21st day we sailed from hence directing our course towards California we had the Wind at N. W. and W. N. W. a small gale with a great Sea out of the West We past by 3 Islands called the Maria's After we past these Islands we had much Wind at N. N. W. and N. W. and at N. with thick rainy weather We beat till the 6th day of February but it was against a brisk Wind and proved labour in vain For we were now within reach of the Land Trade-wind which was opposite to us but would we go to California upon any Discovery or otherwise we should bear 60 or 70 leagues off from shore where we should avoid the Land-winds and have the benefit of the true Easterly Trade-wind Finding therefore that we got nothing but rather lost ground being then in 21 d. 5 m. N. we steered away more to the Eastward again for the Islands Maria's and the 7th day we came to an anchor at the East end of the middle Island in 8 fathom Water good clean Sand. The Maria's are three uninhabited Islands in lat 21 d. 40 m. they are distant from Cape St. Lucas on California 40 leagues bearing West South West and they are distant from Cape Corrientes 20 leagues bearing upon the same points of the Compass with Cape St. Lucas They stretch N. W. and S. E. about 14 leagues There are 2 or 3 small high Rocks near them The Westermost of them is the biggest Island of the three and they are all three of an indifferent heighth The soil is stony and dry the land in most places is covered with a shrubby sort of Wood very thick and troublesome to pass through In some places there is plenty of straight large Cedars though speaking of the places where I have found Cedars Chap. 3. I forgot to mention this place The Spaniards make mention of them in other places but I speak of those which I have seen All round by the Sea side it is sandy and there is produced a green prickly Plant whose leaves are much like the Penguin-leaf and the root like the root of a Seâ—…pervive but much larger This root being bak d in an Oven is good to eat and the Indians on California as I have been informed have great part of their subsistence from these roots We made an Oven in a sandy Bank and baked of these Roots and I eat of them but none of us greatly cared for them They taste exactly like the Roots of our English Burdocks boil'd of which I have eaten Here are plenty of Guanoes and Raccoons a large sort of Rat and Indian Conies and abundance of large Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The Sea is also pretty well stored with Fish and Turtle or Tortoise and Seal This is the second place on this Coast where I did see any Seal and this place helps to confirm what I have observed that they are seldom seen but where there is plenty of Fish Captain Swan gave the middle Island the Name of Prince George's Island The 8th day we run nearer the Island and anchored in 5 fathom and moored Head and Stern and unrigg d both Ship and Bark in order to careen Here Captain Swan proposed to go into the East Indies Many were well pleased with the Voyage but some thought such was their ignorance that he would carry them out of the world for about 2 thirds of our Men did not think there was any such way to be found but at last he gain'd their consents At our first coming hither we did eat nothing but Seal but after the first 2 or 3 days our Strikers brought aboard Turtle every day on which we fed all the time that we lay here and saved our Maiz for our Voyage Here also we measured all our Maiz and found we had about 80 Bushels This we divided into 3 parts one for the Bark and two for the Ship our Men were divided also 100 men aboard the Ship and 50 aboard the Bark besides 3 or 4 Slaves in each I had been a long time sick of a Dropsy a distemper whereof as I said before many of our men died so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot Sand I indured it near half an hour and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a Tent. I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the Sand and I do believe it did me much good for I grew well soon after We staid here till the 26th day and then both Vessels being clean we sailed to the Valley of Balderas to water for we could not do it here now In the wet Season indeed here is Water enough for the Brooks then run down plentifully but now though there was Water yet it was bad filling it being a great way to fetch it from the holes were it lodged The
Fruit there is also a sort of VVine drawn from the Tree called Toddy which looks like VVhey It is sweet and very pleasant but it is to be drunk within 24 hours after it is drawn for afterwards it grows sowre Those that have a great many Trees draw a spirit from the sowre Wine called Arack Arack is distill'd also from Rice and other things in the East Indies but none is so much esteemed for making Punch as this sort made of Toddi or the sap of the Coco-nut Tree for it makes most delicate Punch but it must have a dash of Brandy to hearten it because this Arack is not strong enough to make good Punch of it self This sort of Liquor is chiefly used about Goa and therefore it has the name of Goa Arack The way of drawing the Toddi from the Tree is by cutting the top of a Branch that would bear Nuts but before it has any Fruit and from thence the Liquor which was to feed its Fruit distils into the hole of a Callabash that is hung upon it This Branch continues running almost as long as the Fruit would have been growing and then it dries away The Tree hath usually 3 fruitful Branches which if they be all tapp'd thus then the Tree bears no Fruit that year but if one or two only be tapp'd the other will bear Fruit all the while The Liquor which is thus drawn is emptied out of the Callabash duly morning and evening so long as it continues running and is sold every morning and evening in most Towns in the East Indies and great gains is produced from it even this way but those that distil it and make Arack reap the greatest profit There is also great profit made of the Fruit both of the Nut and the Shell The Kernel is much used in making Broath When the Nut is dry they take off the husk and giving two good blows on the middle of the Nut it breaks in two equal parts letting the Water fall on the ground then with a small iron Rasp made for the purpose the Kernel or Nut is rasped out clean which being put into a little fresh Water makes it become white as Milk In this milky Water they boil a Fowl or any sort of Flesh and it makes very savory Broath English Seamen put this Water into boil'd Rice which they eat instead of Rice-milk carrying Nuts purposely to Sea with them This they learn from the Natives But the greatest use of the Kernel is to make Oyl both for burning and for frying The way to make the Oyl is to grate or rasp the Kernel and steep it in fresh water then boil it and scum off the Oil at top as it rises but the Nuts that make the Oyl ought to be a long time gathered so as that the Kernel may be turning soft and oily The Shell of this Nut is used in the East Indies for Cups Dishes Ladles Spoons and in a manner for all eating and drinking vessels 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 shaped Nuts are often brought home to Europe and much esteemed The husk of the Shell is of great use to make Cables for the dry husk is full of small strings and threads which being beaten become soft and the other substance which was mixt among it falls away like Saw-dust leaving only the strings These are afterwards spun into long yarns and twisted up into balls for convenience and many of these Rope-yarns joyned together make good Cables This Manufactory is chiefly used at the Maldive Islands and the threads sent in balls into all places that trade thither purposely for to make Cables I made a Cable at Achin with some of it These are called Coire Cables they will last very well But there is another sort of Coire Cables as they are called that are black and more strong and lasting and are made of strings that grow like Horse-hair at the heads of certain Trees almost like the Coco-nut-tree This sort comes most from the Island Timor In the South Seas the Spaniards do make Oakam to chalk their Ships with the husk of the Coco-nut which is more serviceable than that made of hemp and they say it will never rot I have been told by Captain Knox who wrote the Relation of Ceylon that in some places of India they make a sort of coarse Cloath of the husk of the Coco-nut which is used for Sails I my self have seen a sort of course Sail-cloath made of such a kind of substance but whether the same or no I know not I have been the longer on this subject to give the Reader a particular Account of the use and profit of a Vegetable which is possibly of all others the most generally serviceable to the conveniencies as well as the necessities of humane Life Yet this Tree that is of such great use and esteemed so much in the East Indies is scarce regarded in the West Indies for want of the knowledge of the benefit which it may produce And t is partly for the sake of my Countrymen in our American Plantations that I have spoken so largely of it For the hot Climates there are a very propersoil for it and indeed it is so hardy both in the raising it and when grown that it will thrive as well in dry sandy ground as in rich land I have found them growing very well in low sandy Islands on the West of Sumatra that are over-flowed with the Sea every Spring-tide and though the Nuts there are not very big yet this is no loss for the Kernel is thick and sweet and the Milk or VVater in the inside is more pleasant and sweet than of the Nuts that grow in rich ground which are commonly large indeed but not very sweet These at Guam growing in dry ground are of a middle size and I think the sweetest that I did ever taste Thus much for the Coco-nut The Lime is a sort of bastard or Crab-limon The Tree or Bush that bears it is prickly like a Thorn growing full of small boughs In Jamaica and other places they make of the Lime-Bush Fences about Gardens or any other Inclosure by planting the seeds close together which growing up thick spread abroad and make a very good Hedge The Fruit is like a Lemon but smaller the rind thin and the inclosed substance full of juice The juice is very tart yet of a pleasant taste if sweetned with Sugar It is chiefly used for making Punch both in the East and West Indies as well ashore as at Sea and much of it is for that purpose yearly brought home to England from our West India Plantations It is also used for a particular kind of Sauce which is called Pepper-Sauce and is made of Cod-pepper commonly called Guinea-pepper boiled in Water and then pickled with Salt and mixt with Lime-juice to preserve it Limes grow plentifully in the East and West Indies within the Tropicks The Bread-fruit as we call it grows on a large Tree as big and high as our
of the biggest Island that between both there is formed a very commodious Harbour The entrance of this Harbour is on the North side where the two Islands are near a mile asunder There are 3 or 4 small Keys and a good deep Channel between them and the biggest Island Towards the South end of the Harbour the two Islands do in a manner close up leaving only a small passage for Boats and Canoas There are no more Islands on the North side but 5 or 6 on the South side of the great Island See the Table The Mold of these Islands for the biggest part is blackish and pretty deep only the Hills are somewhat stony The Eastern part of the biggest Island is sandy yet all cloathed with Trees of divers sorts The Trees do not grow so thick as I have seen them in some places but they are generally large and tall and fit for any uses There is one sort of Tree much larger than any other on this Island and which I have not seen any where else It is about 3 or 4 foot diameter in the Body from whence is drawn a sort of clammy juice which being boiled a little becomes perfect Tar and if you boil it much it will become hard as Pitch It may be put to either use we used it both ways and found it to be very serviceable The way that they get this juice is by cutting a great gap horizontally in the body of the Tree half through and about a foot from the ground and then cutting the upper part of the body aslope inwardly downward till in the middle of the Tree it meet with the traverse cutting or plain In this plain horizontal semicircular stump they make a hallow like a Bason that may contain a quart or two Into this hole the juice which drains from the wounded upper part of the Tree falls from whence you must empty it every day It will run thus for some months and then dry away and the Tree will recover again The Fruit-trees that nature hath bestowed on these Isles are Mangoes and Trees bearing a sort of Grape and other Trees bearing a kind of wild or bastard Nutmegs These all grow wild in the Woods and in very great plenty The Mangoes here grow on Trees as big as Apple-trees Those at Fort St. George are not so large The fruit of these is as big as a small Peach but long and smaller towards the top It is of a yellowish colour when ripe it is very juicy and of a pleasant smell and delicate taste When the Mango is young they cut them in two pieces and pickle them with Salt and Vineger in which they put some Cloves of Garlick This is an excellent sawce and much esteemed it is called Mango Achar Achar I presume signifies Sawce They make in the East Indies especially at Siam and Pegu several sorts of Achar as of the young tops of Bamboes c. Bambo Achar and Mango Achar are most used The Mangoes were ripe when we were there as were also the rest of these Fruits and they have then so delicate a fragrancy that we could smell them out in the thick Woods if we had but the wind of them while we were a good way from them and could not see them and we generally found them out this way Mangoes are common in many places of the East Indies but I did never know any grow wild only at this place These though not so big as those I have seen at Achin at Maderas and Fort St. George are yet every whit as pleasant as the best sort of their Garden Mangoes The Grape-tree grows with a strait body of a Diameter about a foot or more and hath but few Limbs or Boughs The Fruit grows in Clusters all about the body of the Tree like the Jack Durian and Cacao Fruits There are of them both red and white They are much like such Grapes as grow on our Vines both in shape and colour and they are of a very pleasant Winy taste I never saw these but on the two biggest of these Islands the rest had no Tar-trees Mango's Grape-trees nor Wild Nutmegs The Wild Nutmeg-tree is as big as a Walnut-tree but it does not spread so much The Boughs are gross and the Fruit grows among the Boughs as the Wallnut and other Fruits This Nutmeg is much smaller than the true Nutmeg and longer also It is inclosed with a thin Shell and a sort of Mace encircling the Nut within the Shell This bastard Nutmeg is so much like the true Nutmeg in shape that at our first arrival here we thought it to be the true one but it has no manner of smell nor taste The Animals of these Islands are some Hogs Lizards and Guanoes and some of those Creatures mentioned in Chap. XI which are like but much bigger than the Guano Here are many sorts of Birds as Parrots Parakites Doves and Pigeons Here are also a sort of wild Cocks and Hens They are much like our tame Fowl of that kind but a great deal less for they are about the bigness of a Crow The Cocks do crow like ours but much more small and shrill and by their crowing we do first find them out in the Woods where we shoot them Their flesh is very white and sweet There are a great many Limpits and Muscles and plenty of green Turtle And upon this mention of Turtle again I think it not amiss to add some reasons to strengthen the opinion that I have given concerning these Creatures removing from place to place I have said in Chapter 5th that they leave their common feeding places and go to places a great way from thence to lay as particularly to the Island Ascention Now I have discoursed with some since that subject was printed who are of opinion that when the laying time is over they never go from thence but lye some where in the Sea about the Island which I think is very improbable for there can be no food for them there as I could soon make appear as particularly from hence that the Sea about the Isle of Ascention is so deep as to admit of no anchoring but at one place where there is no sign of Grass and we never bring up with our sounding Lead any Grass or Weeds out of very deep Seas but Sand or the like only But if this be granted that there is food for them yet I have a great deal of reason to believe that the Turtle go from hence for after the laying time you shall never see them and where ever Turtle are you will see them rise and hold their Head above water to breath once in 7 or 8 minutes or at longest in 10 or 12. And if any man does but consider how Fish take their certain seasons of the year to go from one Sea to another this would not seem strange even Fowls also having their seasons to remove from once place to another These Islands are pretty well watered
a steep bank Therefore we never strive to anchor where we see the Land high and bounding the Sea with steep Cliffs and for this reason when we came in sight of States Island near Terra del Fuego before we entered into the South Seas we did not so much as think of anchoring after we saw what Land it was because of the steep Cliffs which appear'd against the Sea Yet there might be little Harbours or Coves for Shallops or the like to anchor in which we did not see nor search after As high steep Cliffs bounding on the Sea have this ill consequence that they seldom afford anchoring so they have this benefit that we can see them far off and sail close to them without danger for which reason we call them Bold Shores Whereas low Land on the contrary is seen but a little way and in many places we dare not come near it for fear of running aground before we see it Besides there are in many places shoals thrown out by the course of great Rivers that from the low Land fall into the Sea This which I have said that there is usually good anchoring near low Lands may be illustrated by several instances Thus on the South side of the Bay of Campeachy there is mostly low Land and there also is good anchoring all along shore and in some places to the Eastward of the Town of Campeachy we shall have so many fathom as we are leagues off from Land that is from 9 or 10 leagues distance till you come within 4 leagues and from thence to Land it grows but shallower The Bay of Honduras also is low Land and continues mostly so as we past along from thence to the Coasts of Portobel and Cartagena till we came as high as Santa Martha afterwards the Land is low again till you come towards the Coast of Caraccus which is a high Coast and bold shore The Land about Surinam on the same Coast is low and good anchoring and that over on the Coast of Guinea is such also And such too is the Bay of Panama where the Pilot-book orders the Pilot always to sound and not to come within such a depth be it by night or day In the same Seas from the high Land of Guatimala in Mexico to California there is mostly low Land and good anchoring In the Main of Asia the Coast of China the Bays of Siam and Bengal and all the Coast of Coromandel and the Coast about Malacca and against it the Island Sumatra on that side are mostly low anchoring shores But on the West side of Sumatra the shore is high and bold so most of the Islands lying to the Eastward of Sumatra as the Islands Borneo Celebes Gilolo and abundance of Island of less note lying scattering up and down those Seas are low Land and have good anchoring about them with many shoals scattered to and fro among them but the Islands lying against the East Indian Ocean especially the West sides of them are high Land and steep particularly the West parts not only of Sumatra but also of Java Timor c. Particulars are endless but in general 't is seldom but high Shores and deep Waters and on the other side low Land and shallow Seas are found together But to return from this digression to speak of the rest of these Islands Monmouth and Grafton Isles are very hilly with many of those steep inhabited Precipices on them that I shall describe particularly The two small Islands are flat and even only the Bashee Island hath one steep scraggy Hill but Goat-Island is all flat and very even The mold of these Islands in the Valleys is blackish in some places but in most red The Hills are very rocky The Valleys are well watered with Brooks of fresh water which run into the Sea in many different places The Soil is indifferent fruitful especially in the Valleys producing pretty great plenty of Trees tho not very big and thick Grass The sides of the Mountains have also short Grass and some of the Mountains have Mines within them for the Natives told us that the yellow Metal they shew'd us as I shall speak more particularly came from these Mountains for when they held it up they would point towards them The fruit of the Islands are a few Plantains Bonanoes Pine-apples Pumkins Sugar-canes c. and there might be more if the Natives would for the ground seems fertile enough Here are great plenty of Potatoes and Yames which is the common food for the Natives for bread kind for those few Plantains they have are only used as Fruit. They have some Cotton growing here of the small plants Here are plenty of Goats and abundance of Hogs but few Fowls either wild or tame For this I have always observed in my Travels both in the East and West Indies that in those places where there is plenty of Grain that is of Rice in the one and Maiz in the other there are also found great abundance of Fowls but on the contrary few Fowls in those Countries where the Inhabitants feed on Fruits and Roots only The few wild Fowls that are here are Parakites and some other small Birds Their tame Fowl are only a few Cocks and Hens Monmouth and Grafton Islands are very thick inhabited and Bashee Island hath one Town on it The Natives of these Islands are short squat people they are generally round visaged with low Foreheads and thick Eye-brows their Eyes of a hazel colour and small yet bigger than the Chinese short low Noses and their Lips and Mouths middle proportioned Their Teeth are white their Hair is black and thick and lank which they wear but short it will just cover their Ears and so it is cut round very even Their Skins are of a very dark copper colour They wear no Hat Cap nor Turbat nor any thing to keep off the Sun The men for the biggest part have only a small clout to cover their Nakedness some of them have Jackets made of Plantain leaves which were as rough as any Bears skin I never saw such rugged things The Women have a short Petticoat made of Cotton which comes a little below their Knees It is a thick sort of stubborn cloath which they make themselves of their Cotton Both Men and Women do wear large Ear-rings made of that yellow Metal before mention'd Whether it were Gold or no I cannot positively say I took it to be so it was heavy and of the colour of our paler Gold I would fain have brought away some to have satisfied my curiosity but I had nothing wherewith to buy any Captain Read bought 2 of these Rings with some Iron of which the people are very greedy and he would have bought more thinking he was come to a very fair Market but that the paleness of the Metal made him and his Crew distrust its being right Gold For my part I should have ventur'd on the purchase of some but having no property in
side of which are 4 small Islands close by it which are very well stored with Cloves The two chiefest are Ternate and Tidore and as the Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Cinnamon and that of Banda for Nutmegs so these are thought by some to be the only Clove Islands in the World but this is a great error as I have already shewn At the South end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulph of about 7 or 8 leagues wide and 40 or 50 long which runs up the Countrey almost directly to the North and this Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle of it On the West side of the Island almost at the South end of it the Town of Macasser is seated A Town of great Strength and Trade belonging to the Dutch There are great Inlets and Lakes on the East side of the Island as also abundance of small Islands and sholes lying scattered about it We saw a high peeked Hill at the N. end but the Land on the East side is low all along for we cruized almost the length of it The mold on this side is black and deep and extraordinary fat and rich and full of Trees and there are many Brooks of Water run out into the Sea Indeed all this East side of the Island seems to be but one large Grove of extraordinary great high Trees Having with much ado got on this East side coasting along to the Southward and yet having but little Wind and even that little against us at S. S. W. and sometimes Calm we were a long time going about the Island The 22d day we were in Lat. 1 d. 20 m. South and being about 3 leagues from the Island standing to the Southward with a very gentle Land wind about 2 or 3 a clock in the morning we heard a clashing in the Water like Boats rowing and fearing some sudden attack we got up all our Arms and stood ready to defend our selves As soon as it was day we saw a great Proe built like the Mindanayan Proe's with about 60 men in her and 6 smaller Proe's They lay still about a mile to Windward of us to view us and probably design'd to make a prey of us when they first came out but they were now afraid to venture on us At last we shewed them Dutch Colours thinking thereby to allure them to come to us for we could not go to them but they presently rowed in toward the Island and went into a large opening and we saw them no more nor did we ever see any other Boats or Men but only one fishing Canoa while we were about this Island neither did we see any House on all the Coast. About 5 or 6 leagues to the South of this place there is a great Range of both large and small Islands and many shoals also that are not laid down in our Drafts which made it extreamly troublesom for us to get through But we past between them all and the Island Celebes and anchored against a sandy Bay in 8 fathom sandy ground about half a mile from the main Island being then in lat 1 d. 50 m. South Here we stayed several days and sent out our Canoas a striking of Turtle every day for here is great plenty of them but they were very shy as they were generally where-ever we found them in the East India Seas I know not the reason of it unless the Natives go very much a striking here for even in the West Indies they are shy in places that are much disturbed and yet on New Holland we found them shy as I shall relate though the Natives there do not molest them On the sholes without us we went and gathered Shell-fish at low water There were a monstrous sort of Cockles the Meat of one of them would suffice 7 or 8 Men. It was very good wholsom Meat We did also beat about in the Woods on the Island but found no game One of our Men who was always troubled with sore Legs found a certain Vine that supported it self by climbing about other Trees The leaves reach'd 6 or 7 feet high but the strings or branches 11 or 12. It had a very green leaf pretty broad and roundish and of a thick substance These leaves pounded small and boiled with Hogs Lard make an excellent Salve Our Men knowing the vertues of it stockt themselves here there was scarce a Man in the Ship but got a pound or two of it especially such as were troubled with old Ulcers who found great benefit by it This Man that discovered these leaves here had his first knowledge of them in the Isthmus of Darien he having had this Receipt from one of the Indians there and he had been ashore in divers places since purposely to seek these leaves but did never find any but here Among the many vast Trees hereabouts there was one exceeded all the rest This Captain Read caused to be cut down in order to make a Canoa having lost our Boats all but one small one in the late Storms so 6 lusty Men who had been Logwood cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras as Captain Read himself and many more of us had and so were very expert at this work undertook to fell it taking their turns 3 always cutting together and they were one whole day and half the next before they got it down This Tree though it grew in a Wood was yet 18 foot in circumference and 44 foot of clean body without knot or branch and even there it had no more than one or two branches and then ran clean again 10 foot higher there it spread it self into many great limbs and branches like an Oak very green and flourishing yet it was perisht at the heart which marr'd it for the service intended So leaving it and having no more business here we weighed and went from hence the next day it being the 29th day of November While we lay here we had some Tornadoes one or two every day and pretty fresh Land Winds which were at West The Sea breezes were small and uncertain sometimes out of the N. E. and so veering about to the East and South East We had the Wind at North East when we weighed and we steered off S. S. W. In the afternoon we saw a shole a head of us and altered our course to the S. S. E. In the evening at 4 a clock we were close by another great shole therefore we tackt and stood in for the Island Celebes again for fear of running on some of the sholes in the night By day a Man might avoid them well enough for they had all Beacons on them like Huts built on tall Posts above high-water mark probably set up by the Natives of the Island Celebes or those of some other neighbouring Islands and I never saw any such elsewhere In the night we had a violent Tornado out of the S. W. which lasted about an hour The 30th day
we had a fresh Land Wind and steered away South passing between the 2 Shoals which we saw the day before These Shoals lye in lat 3 d. South and about 10 leagues from the Island Celebes Being past them the Wind died away and we lay decalmed till the afternoon Then we had a hard Tornado out of the South West and towards the evening we saw two or three Spouts the first I had seen since I came into the East Indies in the West Indies I had often met with them A Spout is a small ragged piece or part of a Cloud hanging down about a yard seemingly from the blackest part thereof Commonly it hangs down sloping from thence or sometimes appearing with a small bending or elbow in the middle I never saw any hang perpendicularly down It is small at the lower end seeming no bigger than ones Arm but 't is fuller towards the Cloud from whence it proceeds When the surface of the Sea begins to work you shall see the Water for about 100 paces in circumference foam and move gently round till the whirling motion increases and then it flies upward in a pillar about 100 paces in compass at the bottom but lessening gradually upwards to the smallness of the Spout it self there where it reacheth the lower end of the Spout through which the rising Sea-water seems to be conveyed into the Clouds This visibly appears by the Clouds increasing in bulk and blackness Then you shall presently see the Cloud drive along although before it seemed to be without any motion the Spout also keeping the same course with the Cloud and still sucking up the Water as it goes along and they make a Wind as they go Thus it continues for the space of half an hour more or less until the sucking is spent and then breaking off all the Water which was below the Spout or pendulous piece of Cloud falls down again into the Sea making a great noise with its fall and clashing motion in the Sea It is very dangerous for a Ship to be under a Spout when it breaks therefore we always endeavoured to shun it by keeping at a distance if possibly we can But for want of Wind to carry us away we are often in great fear and danger for it is usually calm when Spouts are at work except only just where they are Therefore men at Sea when they see a Spout coming and know not how to avoid it do sometimes fire shot out of their great Guns into it to give it air or vent that so it may break but I did never hear that it proved to be of any benefit And now being on this subject I think it not amiss to give you an account of an accident that happened to a Ship once on the Coast of Guinea some time in or about the year 1674. One Captain Records of London bound for the Coast of Guinea in a Ship of 300 Tuns and 16 Guns called the Blessing when he came into the lat 7 or 8 degrees North he saw several Spouts one of which came directly towards the Ship and he having no Wind to get out of the way of the Spout made ready to receive it by furling his sails It came on very swift and broke a little before it reached the Ship making a great noise and raising the Sea round it as if a great house or some such thing had been cast into the Sea The fury of the Wind still lasted and took the Ship on the Starboard bow with such violence that it snapt off the Boltsprit and Fore-mast both at once and blew the Ship all along ready to over-set it but the Ship did presently right again and the Wind whirling round took the Ship a second time with the like fury as before but on the contrary side and was again like to overset her the other way The Mizen-mast felt the fury of this second blast and was snapt short off as the Fore-mast and Bolt-sprit had been before The Main-mast and Main-top-mast received no damage for the fury of the Wind which was presently over did not reach them Three men were in the Fore-top when the Fore-mast broke and one on the Boltsprit and fell with them into the Sea but all of them were saved I had this relation from Mr. John Canby who was then Quarter-master and Steward of her one Ahraham Wise was chief Mate and Leonard Jefferies second Mate We are usually very much afraid of them yet this was the only damage that ever I heard done by them They seem terrible enough the rather because they come upon you while you lie becalm'd like a Log in the Sea and cannot get out of their way but though I have seen and been beset by them often yet the fright was always the greatest of the harm December the 1st we had a gentle gale at E. S. E. we steered South and at noon I was by Observation in lat 3 d. 34 m. South Then we saw the Island Bouton bearing South West and about 10 leagues distant We had very uncertain and unconstant Winds The Tornadoes came out of the S. W. which was against us and what other Winds we had were so saint that they did us little kinndess but we took the advantage of the smallest gale and got a little way every day The 4th day at noon I was by Observation in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. South The 5th day we got close by the N. W. end of the Island Bouton and in the evening it being fair weather we hoised out our Canoa and sent the Moskito men of whom we had 2 or 3 to strike Turtle for here are plenty of them but they being shy we chose to strike them in the night which is customary in the West Indies also For every time they come up to breathe which is once in 8 or 10 minutes they blow so hard that one may hear them at 30 or 40 yards distance by which means the Striker knows where they are and may more easily approach them than in the day for the Turtle sees bettter than he hears but on the contrary the Manatee's hearing is quickest In the morning they returned with a very large Turtle which they took near the shore and withal an Indian of the Island came aboard with them He spake the Malayan Language by which we did understand him He told us that 2 leagues farther to the Southward of us there was a good Harbour in which we might Anchor So having a fair Wind we got thither by noon This Harbour is in Lat. 4 d. 54 m. South lying on the East side of the Island Bouton Which Island lyes near the S. E. end of the Island Celebes distant from it about 3 or 4 leagues It is of a long form stretching S. W. and N. E. about 25 leagues long and 10 broad It is pretty high Land and appears pretty even and flat and very woody There is a large Town within a league of the anchoring
assistance of the Doctors of the Fort a fine Air and good Kitchin and Cellar Physick soon recovered their healths Those that subscribed to be at all calls and assisted to bring in the Ship received Captain Heath's Bounty by which they furnished themselves with Liquor for their homeward Voyage But we were now so few that we could not sail the Ship therefore Captain Heath desired the Governour to spare him some men and as I was informed had a promise to be supplied out of the homeward bound Dutch East India Ships that were now expected every day and we waited for them In the mean time in came the James and Mary and the Josiah of London bound home Out of these we thought to have been furnished with men but they had only enough for themselves therefore we waited yet longer for the Dutch Fleet which at last arrived but we could get no men from them Captain Heath was therefore forced to get men by stealth such as he could pick up whether Soldiers or Seamen The Dutch knew our want of men therefore near 40 of them those that had a design to return to Europe came privately and offered themselves and waited in the night at places appointed where our Boats went and fetched 3 or 4 aboard at a time and hid them especially when any Dutch Boat came aboard our Ship Here at the Cape I met my friend Daniel Wallis the same who leapt into the Sea and swam at Pulo Condore After several Traverses to Madagascar Don Mascarin Ponticherri Pegu Cunnimere Maderas and the River of Hugli he was now got hither in a homeward bound Dutch Ship I soon perswaded him to come over to us and found means to get him aboard our Ship About the 23d of May we sailed from the Cape in the company of the James and Mary and the Josiah directing our Course towards the Island Santa Hellena We met nothing of remark in this Voyage except a great swelling Sea out of the S. W. which taking us on the broad side made us rowl sufficiently Such of our Water-Casks as were between Decks running from side to side were in a short time all staved and the Deck well washed with the fresh water The Shot tumbled out the Lockers and Garlands and rung a lowd peal rumbling from side to side every rowl that the Ship made neither was it an easie matter to reduce them again within bounds The Guns being carefully look'd after and lash'd fast never budgâ—d but the Tackles or Pulleys and Lashings made great Musick too The sudden and violent motion of the Ship made us fearful lest some of the Guns should have broken loose which must have been very detrimental to the Ships sides The Masts were also in great danger to be rowl'd by the board but no harm hapned to any of us besides the loss of 3 or 4 Butts of Water and a Barrel or 2 of good Cape Wine which was staved in the great Cabbin This great Tumbling Sea took us shortly after we came from the Cape The violence of it lasted but one Night yet we had a continual swelling came out of the S. W. almost during all the passage to Santa Hellena which was an eminent token that the S. W. Winds were now violent in the higher latitudes towards the South Pole for this was the time of the year for those Winds Notwithstanding this boisterous Sea coming thus obliquely upon us we had fine clear weather and a moderate gale at S. E. or between that and the East till we came to the Island Santa Hellena where we arrived the 20th day of June There we found the Princess Ann at an Anchor waiting for us The Island Santa Hellena lies in about 16 Degrees South lat The Air is commonly serene and clear except in the months that yield Rain yet we had one or two very rainy days even while we were here Here are moist seasons to plant and sow and the weather is temperate enough as to heat tho so near the Equator and very healthy The Island is but small not above nine or ten leagues in length and stands 3 or 400 leagues from the main Land It is bounded against the Sea with steep Rocks so that there is no landing but at 2 or 3 places The Land is high and Mountainous and seems to be very dry and poor yet there are fine Valleys proper for cultivation The Mountains appear bare only in some places you may see a few low Shrubs but the Valleys afford some Trees fit for building as I was informed This Island is said to have been first discover'd and settled by the Portuguese who stockt it with Goats and Hogs But it being afterwards deserted by them it lay waste till the Dutch finding it convenient to relieve their East India Ships settled it again but they afterwards relinquished it for a more convenient place I mean the Cape of Good Hope Then the English East India Company settled their Servants there and began to Fortify it but they being yet weak the Dutch about the year 1672 came thither and re-took it and kept it in their possession This news being reported in England Captain Monday was sent to re-take it who by the advice and conduct of one that had formerly lived there landed a Party of Armed Men in the night in a small Cove unknown to the Dutch then in Garrison and climbing the Rocks got up into the Island and so came in the morning to the Hills hanging over the Fort which stands by the Sea in a small Valley From thence firing into the Fort they soon made them surrender There were at this time two or three Dutch East India Ships either at Anchor or coming thither when our Ships were there These when they saw that the English were Masters of the Island again made sail to be gone but being chaced by the English Frigots 2 of them became rich prizes to Captain Monday and his men The Island hath continued ever since in the hands of the English East-India Company and hath been greatly strengthned both with Men and Guns so that at this day it is secure enough from the invasion of any Enemy For the common Landing-place is a small Bay like a Half-Moon scarce 500 paces wide between the two points Close by the Sea side are good Guns planted at equal distances lying along from one end of the Bay to the other besides a small Fort a little further in from the Sea near the midst of the Bay All which makes this Bay so strong that it is impossible to force it The small Cove where Captain Monday landed his men when he took the Island from the Dutch is scarce fit for a Boat to land at and yet that is now also fortified There is a small English Town within the great Bay standing in a little Valley between two high steep Mountains There may be about 20 or 30 small Houses whose Walls are built with rough Stones The inside
Southward of the Streights first mouth and were gotten to the Southermost Entrance near the Sumatra shore but Captain Lacy who chose to go the old way made sail again to the Northward and so passed nearer the Malacca shore by the Sincapore the way we went before His was also the best and nearest way but Captain Weldon was willing to satisfie his curiosity and try a new passage which we got thro tho we had but little depth of water and this Entrance we past is called Brewers Streights Brewers Streights are sometimes passed by small Ships that sail from Batavia to Malacca because for them it is a nearer cut than to run so far as Pulo Timaon or the Streights of Sincapore In this Channel tho in some places we found but 14 or 15 foot water yet the bottom was soft Oaze and it lies so among Islands that there cannot go a great Sea Captain Weldon had also a Dutch man aboard who had been this way and he professing to know the Channel incouraged our Captain to try it which we effected very well tho sometimes we had but little more water than we drew This made us make but an easy Sail and therefore we were 7 or 8 days before we arrived at Malacca but Captain Lacy was there 2 or 3 days before us Here we first heard of the Death of Constant Falcon for whom Captain Brewster seemed to be much concerned There also we found besides several Dutch Sloops and our Companion Captain Lacy an English Vessel of 35 or 40 Tuns This Vessel was bought by one Captain Johnson who was sent by the Governor of Bencouli in a small Sloop to Trade about the Island of Sumatra for Pepper but Captain Johnson being killed the Sloop was brought hither by one Mr. Wells Being thus insensibly fallen into the mention of this Captain Johnson and intending to defer what little I have to say of Malacca till my coming thither again from Achin I shall bestow the rest of this Chapter in speaking of this mans Tragedy and other occurences relating to it which tho of no great moment in themselves yet the Circumstances I shall have occasion to relate with them may be of use to the giving some small light into the state of the opposite Coast of Sumatra which was the Scene of what I am going to speak of for tho I shall have other occasion to speak of Achin and Bencouli yet I shall not have opportunity to say any thing of this part oft hat Island opposite to Malacca unless I do it here To go on therefore with his Story it seems Captain Johnson was part owner of the small Bencooly Sloop but thinking it too small for his turn he came to Malacca intending to buy a larger Sloop of the Dutch if he could light on a bargain He had the best part of a thousand Dollars in Spanish money aboard for which one may purchase a good Sloop here for the Dutch as I have before observ'd do often buy Proe-bottoms for a small matter of the Malayans especially of the people of Jihore and convert them into Sloops either for their own use or to sell. Of these sort of Vessels therefore the Dutch men of Malacca have plenty and can afford good pennyworths and doubtless it was for this reason that Captain Johnson came hither to purchase a Sloop Here he met with a bargain not such a Proe-bottom reformed but an old ill shaped thing yet such a one as pleased him The Dutch man who sold him this Vessel told him withal that the Government did not allow any such dealings with the English tho they might wink at it and that therefore the safest way for them both to keep out of trouble would be to run over to the other side the Streights to a Town called Bancalis on Sumatra where they might safely buy and sell or exchange without any notice taken of them Captain Johnson accepting the offer they sailed both together over to Bancalis a Malayan Town on that Coast commanding the Country about it There they came to an anchor and Captain Johnson paying the price agreed on for the Vessel he had her delivered to him The Dutchman immediately returned over to Malacca again leaving Captain Johnson with 2 Vessels under his Command viz. the Sloop that he brought from Bencooly and this new bought Vessel The Bencooly Sloop he sent into a large River hard by to Trade with the Malayans for Pepper under the Command of Mr. Wells He was no Seaman but a pretty intelligent person that came first out of England as a Soldier to serve the East India Company in the Island Santa Helena He lived sometime very meanly in that Island but having an aspiring mind he left that poor but healthy place to serve the Company at Bencooly which tho 't is accounted the most unhealthy place of any that we Trade too yet the hopes of preferment engaged him to remove thither After some stay there he was sent with Captain Johnson to assist him in this Pepper expedition more because he could use his Pen than his Hands in Sea service He had 3 or 4 raw Seamen with him to work the Sloop up into the River Captain Johnson stayed near Bancalis to fit his new Vessel for with other necessaries she wanted a new Boltsprit which he intended to cut here having a Carpenter with him for that purpose as also to repair and fit her to his mind He had also a few other raw Seamen but such as would have made better Landmen they having served the King of Siam as Soldiers and they were but lately come from thence with the French who were forced to leave that Country But here in the Indies our English are forced for want of better to make use of any Seamen such as they can get and indeed our Merchants are often put hard to it for want of Seamen Here are indeed Lascars or Indian Seamen enough to be hired and these they often make use of yet they always covet an English man or 2 in a Vessel to assist them Not but that these Lascars are some of them indifferent good Sailers and might do well enough but an English man will be accounted more faithful to be employed on matters of moment beside the more free Conversation that may be expected from them during the term of the Voyage So that tho oft times their English men are but ordinary Sailers yet they are promoted to some charge of which they could not be so capable any where but in the East Indies These Seamen would be in a manner wholly useless in Europe where we meet with more frequent and hard storms but here they serve indifferent well especially to go and come with the Monsoons but enough of that Mr. Wells being gone to purchase Pepper Capt. Johnson went ashore about 5 or 6 leagues from Bancalis Town with his Carpenter to cut a Boltsprit there being there plenty of Timber Trees fit for his
Pines lyes on the South side towards the West end of Cuba and is distant from it 3 or 4 Leagues Cape Corientes on Cuba is five or six Leagues to the Westward of the Isle of Pines Between Pines and Cuba are many small woody Islands scattered here and there with Channels for Ships to pass between and by report there is good anchoring near any of them Jamaica Sloops do sometimes pass through between Cuba and Pines when they are bound to Wind-ward because there the Sea is always smooth They are also certain to meet good Land-winds besides they can Anchor when they please and thereby take the benefit of the Tides and when they are got past the East end of Pines they may either stand out to Sea again or if they are acquainted among the small Islands to the East of it which are called the South Keys of Cuba they may range amongst them to the Eastward still taking the greater benefit of Land-winds and Anchoring Besides if Provision is scarce they will meet Jamaica Turtlers or else may get Turtle themselves at which many of them are expert There is also plenty of Fish of many sorts but if they are not provided with Hooks Lines or Harpoons or any other Fishing-Craft nor meet with any Turtlers Cuba will afford them Sustenance of Hog or Beef The great Inconvenience of going in the inside of Pines between it and Cuba proceeds from a Spanish Garrison of about 40 Soldiers at Cape Corientes who have a large Periago well fitted with Oars and Sails and are ready to launch out and seize any small Vessel and seldom spare the Lives as well as the Goods of those that fall into their Hands for fear of telling Tales Such Villanies are frequently practised not only here but also in several other Places of the West Indies and that too with such as came to Trade with their Country-men The Merchants and Gentry indeed are no way guilty of such Actions only the Soldiers and Rascality of the People and these do commonly consist of Mulatoes or some other sort of Copper Colour Indians who are accounted very Barbarous and Cruel The Isle of Pines is about 11 or 12 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The West end of it is low Mangrovy Land and within which is a Lagune of about 3 or 4 Miles wide running to the Eastward but how far I know not with a small Creek of 2 or 3 Foot Water reaching to the Sea The Lagune it self is so shallow especially near the Island that you cannot bring a Canoa within 20 or 30 Paces of the shore The South side of the Island is low flat and rocky the Rocks are perpendicularly steep towards the Sea so that there is no Anchoring on that side but at the West end very good in sandy Ground The body of the Island is high Land with many little Hills incompassing a high Pike or Mountain standing in the middle The Trees that grow here are of divers sorts most of them unknown to me Red Mangroves grow in the low swampy Land against the Sea but on the firm hilly part Pine-Trees are most plentiful of these here are great Groves of a good height and bigness streight and large enough to make Topmasts or standing Masts for small Vessels at the West end there is a pretty big River of fresh Water but no coming at it near the Sea for red Mangroves which grow so thick on both sides of it that there is no getting in among them The Land-Animals are Bullocks Hogs Dear c. here are small Savannahs for the Bullocks and Deer to feed in as well as Fruit in the Woods for the Hogs Here are also a sort of Racoons or Indian Conies and in some Places plenty of Land-Turtle and Land-Crabs of two sorts white and black Both of them make holes in the Ground like Conies where they shelter themselves all day and in the Night come out to feed they will eat Grass Herbs or such Fruit as they find under the Trees The Manchaniel Fruit which neither Bird nor Beast will taste is greedily devoured by them without doing them any harm Yet these very Crabs that feed on Manchaneel are venomous both to Man and Beast that feeds on them though the others are very good Meat The white Crabs are the largest sort some of them are as big as a Mans two Fists joyned together they are shaped like Sea-Crabs having one large Claw wherewith they will pinch very hard neither will they let go their hold though you bruise them in pieces unless you break the Claw too but if they chance to catch your Fingers the way is to lay your Hand Crab and all flat on the Ground and he will immediately loose his hold and scamper away These white ones build in wet swampy dirty Ground near the Sea so that the Tide washes into their Holes but the black Crab is more cleanly delighting to live in dry Places and makes its House in sandy Earth Black Crabs are commonly fat and full of Eggs they are also accounted the better Meat tho' both sorts are very good Here are also a great many Alligators and Crocodiles that haunt about this Island and are said to be the most daring in all the West Indies I have heard of many of their Tricks as that they have followed a Canoa and put their Noses in over the Gunnal with their Jaws wide open as if ready to devour the Men in it And that when they have been ashore in the Night near the Sea the Crocodiles have boldly come in among them and made them run from their Fire and taken away their Meat from them Therefore when Privateers are hunting on this Island they always keep Sentinels out to watch for these ravenous Creatures as duly as they do in other Places for fear of Enemies especially in the Night for fear of being devoured in their sleep The Spaniards of Cuba have here some Craules i. e. Herds of Hogs with a few Indians or Mulatoes to look after them Here are also Hunters that gain a livelihood by killing wild Hog and Beef This Island is reported to be very wet I have heard many say that it rains here more or less every day in the Year but this I suppose is a mistake for there fell no Rain about us so long as we stayed here neither did I see any appearance of it in other Places of the Island We were no sooner at an Anchor but five of us went ashore leaving only the Cook and Cabbin-Boy aboard We had but two bad fowling Pieces in the Ship those we took with us with a design to Kill Beef and Hog We went into the Lagune where we found Water enough for our Canoa and in some Places not much to spare when we were got almost over it we saw 8 or 10 Bulls and Cows feeding on the shore close by the Sea This gave us great hopes of good success We therefore rowed away aside off the
enough for small Barks 7 or 8 Mile up The Water is fresh 10 Months but in the midst of the dry Season 't is brackish Four Mile from the Mouth the Land on both sides these two Branches is wet and swampy affording only Mangroves by the Creeks sides only at the Heads of them there are many large Oaks besides which I did never see any growing within the Tropicks but 20 Paces within that grows plenty of Logwood therefore the Cutters settled themselves here also On the West side of the West Branch lyes a large Pasture for Cattle about 3 Miles from the Creek to which the Logwood-Cutters had made paths from their Huts to hunt Cattle which are always there in great numbers and commonly fatter than those in the Neighbouring Savannahs and therefore was called the fat Savannah and this West Creek was always most inhabited by Logwood-Cutters The Logwood-Trade was grown very common before I came hither here being as I said before about 260 or 270 Men living in all the Lagune and at Beef-Island of which Isle I shall speak hereafter This Trade had its Rise from the decay of Privateering for after Jamaica was well settled by the English and a Peace established with Spain the Privateers who had hitherto lived upon plundering the Spaniards were put to their shifts for they had prodigally spent whatever they got and now wanting subsistence were forced either to go to Petit Guavas where the Privateer-Trade still continued or into the Bay for Logwood The more Industrious sort of them came hither yet even these though they could work well enough if they pleased yet thought it a dry business to toil at Cutting Wood. They were good Marks-Men and so took more delight in Hunting but neither of those Employments affected them so much as Privateering therefore they often made Sallies out in small Parties among the nearest Indian Towns where they plundred and brought away the Indian Women to serve them at their Huts and sent their Husbands to be sold at Jamaica besides they had not their old Drinking-bouts forgot and would still spend 30 or 40 l. at a sitting aboard the Ships that came hither from Jamaica carousing and firing off Guns 3 or 4 days together And tho' afterwards many sober Men came into the Bay to cut Wood yet by degrees the old Standers so debauched them that they could never settle themselves under any Civil Government but continued in their Wickedness till the Spaniards encouraged by their careless Rioting fell upon them and took most of them singly at their own Huts and carried them away Prisoners to Campeachy or La Vera Cruz from whence they were sent to Mexico and sold to several Tradesmen in that City and from thence after two or three Years when they could speak Spanish many of them made their Escapes and marched in by-Paths back to La Vera Cruz and by the Flota conveyed to Spain and so to England I have spoke with many of them since who told me that none of them were sent to the Silver Mines to Work but kept in or near the City and never suffered to go with their Caravans to New Mexico or that way I relate this because it is generally suggested that the Spaniards commonly send their Prisoners thither and use them very barbarously but I could never learn that any European has been thus served whether for fear of discovering their Weakness or for any other Reason I know not But to proceed It is most certain that the Logwood-Cutters that were in the Bay when I was there were all routed or taken a thing I ever feared and that was the reason that moved me at last to come away although a Place where a Man might have gotten an Estate Having thus given an Account of the first settling of this Place by my Country-men I shall next say something concerning the Seasons of the Year some particulars of the Country its Animals of the Logwood-Trade and their manner of Hunting and several remarkable Passages that happened during my stay there This part of the Bay of Campeachy lyes in about 18d of North Lat. The Sea-Breezes here in fair weather are at N. N. E. or N. The Land-winds are at S. S. E. and S. but in bad Weather at E. S. E. a hard gale for two or three days together The dry Season begins in September and holds till April or May then comes in the wet Season which begins with Tornadoes first one in a day and by degrees increasing till June and then you have set Rains till the latter end of August This swells the Rivers so that they over-flow and the Savannahs begin to be covered with Water and although there may be some Intermissions of dry Weather yet there are still plentiful showers of Rain so that as the water does not increase neither does it decrease but continues thus till the North Winds are set in strong and then all the Savannahs for many Miles seems to be but part of the Sea The Norths do commonly set in about the beginning of October and continue by intervals till March But of these I shall speak more in my Chapter of Winds These Winds blowing right in on the Land drive in the Sea and keep the Tides from their constant Course as long as they last which is sometimes two or three Days by this means the Freshes are pent up and overflow much more than before tho' there be less Rain They blow most fiercely in December and January but afterwards they decrease in strength and are neither so frequent nor lasting and then the Freshes begin to drain from off the low Ground By the middle of Feb. the Land is all dry and in the next Month perhaps you will scarce get Water to drink even in those Savannahs that but 6 Weeks before were like a Sea By the beginning of April the Ponds also in the Savannahs are all dryed up and one that knows not how to get Water otherways may perish for thirst but those that are acquainted here in their Necessity make to the Woods and refresh themselves with Water that they find in wild Pines The wild Pine is a plant so called because it somewhat resembles the Bush that bears the Pine they are commonly supported or grow from some Bunch Knot or Excrescence of the Tree where they take root and grow upright The root is short and thick from whence the Leaves rise up in folds one within another spreading off at the top They are of a good thick Substance and about 10 or 12 Inches long The out side Leaves are so compact as to contain the Rain-water as it falls They will hold a Pint and a half or a Quart and this Water refreshes the Leaves and nourishes the Root When we find these Pines we stick our Knives into the Leaves just above the Root and that lets out the Water which we catch in our Hats as I have done many times to my great relief The Land near
three hundred though at first there was not one to be seen I have sometimes admired from whence so many came so suddenly for we never see above two or three at a place before they come to feast on a Carkass Some of the Carrion Crows are all over white but their Feathers look as if they were sullied They have bald Heads and Necks like the rest they are of the same bigness and make without any difference but in Colour and we never see above one or two of these white ones at a time and 't is seldom also that we see a great number of the black ones but we see one white one amongst them 1. The Logwood-Cutters call the white ones King Carrion Crows and say that they are much bigger than the others and that when a great number are assembled about a Carkass if a King Carrion Crow be among them he falls on first and none of the others will tast the least Morsel till he has filled his belly and is withdrawn nay that they will sit pearching on the Trees about him without approaching the Carkass till he flies away and then in an instant they fall on all together I have seen of the King Carrion Crows but could not perceive them to be bigger than the rest neither were the black ones their Companions so unmannerly as to let them eat without company They are very voracious and will dispatch a Carkass in a trice For that reason the Spaniards never kill them but fine any one that shall And I think there is also an Act in Jamaica that prohibits their destruction and the Logwood-Cutters tho' under no such obligation yet are so zealously superstitious that none will hurt them for fear of receiving some damage afterwards Subtle Jacks are Birds as big as Pigeons they are mostly blackish the tips of their Wing Feathers are yellowish as are also their Bills They have a peculiar and wonderful cunning way of building different from any others Their Nests hang down from the boughs of lofty Trees whose bodies are clean without limbs for a considerable height The branches to which they fasten them are those that spread farthest out from the body and the very extremities of those boughs are only used by them On Trees that grow single by themselves at some distance from others they build clear round but if they joyn to others they make choice of such only as are bordering upon a Savannah Pond or Creek and hang down their Nests from those limbs that spread over those Savannahs c. neglecting such as are near other Trees Their Nests hang down two or three foot from the twigs to which they are fastned and look just like Cabbage-Nets stuft with Hey The Thread that fastens the Nest to the twig is made of long Grass as is also the Nest it self very ingeniously twisted together It is but small at the twig but near the Nest grows thicker The Nest has a hole in the side for the Bird to enter at and 't is very pretty to see twenty or thirty of them hanging round a Tree They are called by the English Subtle Jacks because of this uncommon way of building There are two or three sorts of Bill-Birds so called by the English because their Bills are almost as big as themselves The largest I ever saw are about the size of English Wood-peckers and much like them There are others of a smaller sort but they are not often met with and I never saw many of them Cockrecoes are short winged Birds coloured like Partridges but somewhat lesser neither are they so plump and round They have long Legs delighting to run on the Ground among Woods in swampy Places or near Creeks They make a loud Noise Mornings and Evenings and Answer one another very prettily and they are extraordinary sweet Meat The Water-Fowls are Duck and Mallard Curlews Herons Crabcatchers Pelicans Cormorants Fishing-Hawks Men-of-War-Birds Boobies c. There are three sorts of Ducks viz. The Muscovy the Whistling and the Common Duck. Muscovy Ducks are less than ours but otherwise exactly alike They pearch on old dry Trees or such as have no Leaves on them and seldom light on the Ground but to feed Whistling Ducks are somewhat less than our Common Duck but not differing from them in shape or Colour In flying their Wings make a pretty sort of loud whistling Noise These also pearch on Trees as the former The other sort are like our Common Ducks both in bigness and colour and I have never observed them to pitch upon Trees All three sorts are very good Meat Here are two sorts of Curlews different in bigness and colour the greater are as big as Turkeys with long Legs and long crooked Bills like a Snipes in length and bigness proportionable to the Bulk of their Bodies They are of a dark colour their Wings black and white their Flesh black but very sweet and wholesom They are call'd by the English double Curlews because they are twice as big as the other sort The small Curlews are of a dusky brown with long Legs and Bills like the former their Flesh is most esteemed as being the sweetest Herons are like ours in England in bigness shape and colour Crabcatchers are shaped and coloured like Herons but they are smaller They feed on small Crabs no bigger than ones Thumb of which there is great plenty Pelicans are large flat-footed Fowls almost as big as Geese and their Feathers in colour like them They have short Legs long Necks and their Bills are about two Inches broad and 17 or 18 long the sore-part of their Necks or Breasts is bare and covered with a soft smooth yet loose Skin like that about the Necks of Turkies This Skin is of the colour of their Feathers mixt with a dark and light grey so exactly interwoven that it appears very beautiful They are a very heavy Bird and seldom fly far or very high from the Water They commonly sit on Rocks at some distance from the shore where they may look about them They seem to be very melancholly Fowls by their perching all alone They sit as if they were sleeping holding their Heads upright and resting the ends of their Bills on their Breasts they are better Meat than Boobies or Men-of-War-Birds Cormorants are just like young Ducks in shape having such Feet and Bills They are black with white Breasts and live on small Fish which they take near the shore or on Worms which they get out of the Mud at low Water They taste very fishy yet are indifferent good Meat they being very fat Fishing Hawks are like our smallest sort of Hawks in colour and shape with such Bills and Talons They pearch upon stumps of Trees or dry Limbs that hang over the Water about Creeks Rivers or against the Sea and upon sight of any small Fish near them they skim along just over them and snatching up the prey with their Talons presently rise again without touching the VVater
Banks of Rivers but never feeds in Savannahs or Pastures of good Grass as all other Bullocks do When her Belly is full she lyes down to sleep by the brink of the River and at the least Noise slips into the Water where sinking down to the bottom tho' very deep she walks as on dry Ground She cannot run fast therefore never rambles far from the River for there she always takes Sanctuary in case of danger There is no shooting of her but when she is asleep They are found besides this Place in the Rivers in the Bay of Honduras and on all the Main from thence as high as the River of Darien Several of my Consorts have kill'd them there and knew their Track which I my self saw in the Isthmus of Darien but should not have known it but as I was told by them For I never did see one nor the Track of any but once The Impression in the Sand seemed much like the Track of a Cow but I was well assured that none of our common Cows could live in that Place neither are there any near it by many Miles My Consorts then gave me this Relation and since I have had the same from other English-men as well as Spaniards Having shew'd the fore-going Description to a Person of Honour he was pleased to send it to a Learned Friend in Holland from whom he received this Answer SIR THE Account I have of this Paper from the English Minister at Leyden is this The Description of your Sea-Cow agrees with the Hippopotamus kept here so exactly that I take them to be Creatures of the same kind Only this here at Leyden is bigger than any Ox. For the Eyes Ears and Hair nothing can be said seeing this Skin wants all these The Teeth are worth noticing which are very large and firm and fine as any Ivory I have spoke with a very Intelligent Person Kinsman to the Burgomaster of Leyden who having had that Hippopotamus as they call it presented to him made a Present thereof to the University who having viewed that Skin very well saith It 's much bigger than you make yours and cannot weigh less than one Thousand Weight Let me add of mine own that perhaps they are greater about the Cape of Good Hope whence that of Leyden came And seeing there are no Horns perhaps it may as well be called a River-Horse as a River-Cow But for that it must bear the denomination given it by the People of the Place where they are which may be different in Africa and America But what he says of her sinking to the bottom in deep Rivers and walking there if he adds what I think he supposes that she rises again and comes on the Land I much question For that such a huge Body should raise it self up again though I know Whales and great Fishes can and do transcends the Faith of I. H. I readily acknowledge there is some resemblance between this Mountain-Cow of America and the African Hippopotamus but yet am of Opinion that they must needs be of a different Species for the Mountain-Cow is never known to swim out to Sea nor to be found near it and is not above half so big and has no long Teeth But for further satisfaction I have here inserted two Accounts of the African Hippopotamus as they were sent the one to the Honourable Person before-mentioned from Captain Covent of Porbury near Bristol a Gentleman of great Ability and Experience as well as known Integrity who used to Trade to Angola The other to my self from my worthy Friend Captain Rogers as he has seen them in the River Natal in the Latitude of 30 on the East side of the Cape of Good Hope The Sea-Horse's Head Ears and Nostrils are like our Horses with a short Tail and Legs And his Footsteps in the Sand like a Horses but the Body above twice as big He grases on the shore and dungs like a Horse Is of a dark-brown but glistering in the Water His pace is but slow on the shore in the Water more swift He there feeds on small Fish and what he can get and will go down to the bottom in 3 Fathom Water For I have watch'd him and he hath staid above half an hour before he arose He is very mischievous to white Men. I have known him open his Mouth and set one Tooth on the Gunnel of a Boat and another on the second Strake from the Keel which was more than 4 Foot distant and there bit a hole through the Plank and sunk the Boat and after he had done he wentaway shaking his Ears His strength is incredibly great for I have seen him in the Wash of the shore when the Sea has tossed in a Dutch-man's Boat with 14 Hogsheads of Water in her upon the said Beast and left it dry on his Back and another Sea came and setch'd the Boat off and the Beast was not hurt as far as I could perceive How his Teeth grow in his Mouth I could not see only that they were round like a Bow and about 16 Inches long and in the higgest part more than 6 Inches about We made several shot at him but to no purpose for they would glance from him as from a Wall The Natives call him a Kittimpungo and say he is Fetisso which is a kind of a God for nothing they say can kill him And if they should do to him as the White Men do he would soon destroy their Canoas and Fishing-Nets Their Custom is when he comes near their Canoas to throw him Fish and then he passeth away and will not meddle with their Fishing-Craft He doth most mischief when he can stand on the Ground but when a-float hath only power to bite As our Boat once lay near the shore I saw him go under her and with his Back lift her out of the Water and over-set her with 6 Men aboard but as it happened did them no harm Whilst we lay in the Road we had three of them which did trouble this Bay every Full and Change and two or three Days after the Natives say they go together two Males and one Female Their Noise is much like the bellowing of a large Calf This Remark was made of a Sea-Horse at Loango in the Year 1695. Captain Roger's Letter SIR THE Hippopotamus or Sea-Horse lives as well on Land as in the Sea or in Rivers It is shaped much like an Ox but bigger weighing 1500 or 1600 l. This Creature is very full bodied and covered with Hair of a Mouse Colour thick short and of a very beautiful sleekness when he first comes out of the Water The Head is flattish on the top It has no Horns but large Lips a wide Mouth and strong Teeth four of which are longer than the rest viz. two in the upper Jaw one on each side and two more in the under These last are four or five Inches long the other two are shorter It has large broad Ears
great goggle Eyes and is very quick sighted It has a thick Neck and strong Legs but weak Footlocks The Hoofs of his Feet are Cloven in the middle And it has two small Hoofs above the Footlock which bending to the Ground when it goes make an Impression on the Sand like four Claws His Tail is short and tapering like a Swines without any Bob at the end This Beast is commonly fat and very good Meat It graseth ashore in wet swampy Ground near Rivers or Ponds but retires to the Water if pursued When they are in the Water they will sink down to the bottom and there walk as on dry Ground They will run almost as fast as a Man but if chased hard they will turn about and look very fierce like a Boar and fight if put to it The Natives of the Country have no Wars with these Creatures but we had many Conflicts with them both on Shore and in the Rivers and though we commonly got the better by killing some and routing the rest yet in the Water we durst not molest them after one Bout which had like to have proved fatal to 3 Men that went in a small Canoa to kill a single Sea-Horse in a River where was 8 or 10 Foot Water The Horse according to his Custom was marching in the bottom of the River and being espied by these Men they wounded him with a long Lance which so enraged the Beast that he rose up immediately and giving a fierce look he opened his Jaws and bit a great piece of the Gunnal or upper edge of the Canoa and was like to over-set it but presently sunk down again to the bottom and the Men made away as fast as they could for fear he should come again The West Branch of the River St. Peter St. Paul after it has run 8 or 9 Leagues N. W loseth it self in Tobasco River about 4 Leagues from the Sea and so makes the Island Tobasco which is 12 Leagues long and 4 broad at the North end for from the River St. Peter St. Paul to the mouth of Tobasco River is accounted 4 Leagues and the Shore lies East and West The first League on the East is Mangrove-Land with some Sandy Bay where Turtle come ashore to lay their Eggs. The West part of it is Sandy Bay quite to the River Tobasco But because here is constantly a great Sea you have no good Landing till within the River The N. W. part of it is full of Guaver Trees of the greatest variety and their fruit the largest and best tasted I have met with and 't is really a very delicious place There are also some Coco-Plums and Grapes but not many The Savannahs here are naturally fenced with Groves of Guavers and produce good Grass for Pasture and are pretty well stock'd with fat Bullocks and I do believe it is from their eating the Guaver Fruit that these Trees are so thick For this fruit is full of small seeds which being swallowed whole by the Cattle are voided whole by them again and then taking root in their Dung spring up abundantly Here are also Deer in great numbers these we constantly find feeding in the Savannahs Mornings and Evenings And I remember an unlucky Accident whilst I was there Two or three Men went out one Evening purposely to hunt when they were in the spots of Savannahs they separated to find their Game and at last it so happened that one of them fired at a Deer and killed it and while he was skinning it he was shot stark dead by one of his Consorts who fired at him mistaking him for a Deer The poor Man was very sorry for so sad a mischance and for fear of the dead Man's Friends durst never go back again to Jamaica The River of Tobasco is the most noted in all the Bay of Campeachy and springs also from the high Mountains of Chiapo but much more to the Westward than that of St. Peter St. Paul From thence it runs N. E. till within 4 Leagues of the Sea where it receives the fore-mentioned Branch of St. Peter St. Paul and then runs North till it falls into the Sea Its Mouth is about two Miles wide and there is a Bar of Sand lying off it with not above 11 or 12 foot Water but a Mile or two within the Mouth at a nook or bending of the River on the East-side there is three Fathom and good Riding without any danger from the strength of the Current The Tide flows up about four Leagues in the dry Season but in the Rains not so far for then the Freshes make the Ebb run very strong During the Norths it over-flows all the low Land for 14 or 15 Leagues up the River and you may then take up fresh Water without the Bar. This River near its Mouth abounds with Cat-fish with some Snooks and Manatee in great plenty there being good feeding for them in many of its Creeks especially in one place on the Starbord side about 2 Leagues from the Sea which runs into the Land 2 or 300 paces and then opens very wide and is so shoal that you may see their backs above Water as they feed a thing so rare that I have heard our Musketo-men say they never saw it any where else On the least noise they will all scamper out into the River yet the Musketo-men seldom miss of striking them These are a sort of Fresh-water Manatee not altogether so big as the Sea kind but otherwise exactly alike in shape and tast and I think rather fatter The Land by the Rivers especially on tne Starbord side is swampy and over-grown with Trees Here are also abundance of Land-Turtle the largest that I ever saw till I came to the Gallapagos Islands in the S. Seas viz. Mangroves Macaws and other sorts that I know not In some places near the River side further up the Country are Ridges of dry Land full of lofty Cabbage and Cotton Trees which make a very pleasant Landskip There is no Settlement within 8 Leagues of the River's Mouth and then you come to a small Breast-work where there is commonly a Spaniard with 8 or 9 Indians posted on each side the River to watch for Boats coming that way And because there are divers Greeks running in from the Savannahs some of these Sentinels are so placed in the Woods that they may look into the Savannahs for fear of being surprized on the back side Yet for all their caution these Sentinels were snap'd by Captain Nevil Commander of a small Brigantine in a second Expedition that he made to take the Town called Villa de Mose His first Attempt miscarried by his being discovered But the second time he got into a Creek a League below these Sentinels and there dragging his Canoas over some Trees that were laid cross it purposely to hinder his passage he came in the night upon their backs in their several Posts so that the Town having no notice of his coming
therefore it is wholly unfrequented by Shipping Keyhooca is a large rich Town of good Trade about 4 Leagues from the River Guasickwalp on the West side It is inhabited with some few Spaniards and abundance of Mulatoes These keep many Mules they being most Carriers and frequently visit the Cacao Coast for Nuts and travel the Country between Villa de Mose and La Vera Cruz. This Country is pleasant enough in the dry Season but when the furious North Winds rage on the Coast and violently drive in the Sea it suffers extreamly being so much overflown that there is no travelling It was in the wet Season when Capt. Rives and Capt. Hewet made an Expedition in Canoas from the Island Trist to the River Guasickwalp and there Landed their Men designing to attack Keyhooca but the Country was so wet that there was no Marching neither was the Water high enough for a Canoa Here are great plenty of Vinellos From the River Guasickwalp the Land runs West 2 or 3 Leagues all low Land with sandy Bay to the Sea and very woody in the Country About three Leagues to the West of it the Land trends away to the North for about 16 Leagues rising higher also even from the very shore as you go up within Land making a very high Promontory called St. Martins Land but ending in a pretty bluff Point which is the West Bounds of the Bay of Campeachy From this blunt Point to Alvarado is about 20 Leagues the first four of it a high rocky shore with steep Cliffs to the Sea and the Land somewhat woody Afterwards you pass by very high Sand-hills by the Sea and an extraordinary great Sea falls in on the shore which hinders any Boats from Landing Within the Sand-hills again the Land is lower pretty plain and fruitful enough in large Trees The River of Alvarado is above a Mile over at the Mouth yet the entrance is but shole there being Sands for near two Mile off the shore clear from side to side nevertheless there are two Channels through these Sands The best which is in the middle has 12 or 14 Foot Water The Land on each side of the Mouth is high Sand-banks above 200 Foot high This River comes out of the Country in three Branches meeting altogether just within the Mouth where it is very wide and deep One of these Branches comes from the Eastward Another from the Westward And the third which is the true River of Alvarado and the biggest comes directly out of the Country opposite to the Sand-hills about a Mile West of the Rivers Mouth This last springs a great way from the Sea passing through a very fertile Country thick settled with Towns of Spaniards and Indians On the West side and just against the Mouth of the River the Spaniards have a small Fort of 6 Guns on the declivity of the Sand-bank a great heighth above the River which commands a small Spanish Town on the Back of it built in a Plain close by the River It is a great Fishery chiefly for Snooks which they catch in the Lake and when they are salted and dryed drive a great Trade in Exchanging them for Salt and other Commodities Besides salt Fish they export from hence abundance of dry Cod-Pepper and some pickled and put in Jars This Pepper is known by the Name of Guinea Pepper Yet for all this Trade 't is but a poor Place and yet has been often taken by the Privateers chiefly to secure their Ships while they should go up in their Canoas to the rich Towns within Land which notwithstanding they never yet attempted by reason that La Vera Cruz bordering so near they were still afraid of being attacqued both by Sea and Land from thence and so never durst prosecute their designs on the Country Towns Six Leagues West from Alvarado there is another large Opening out into the Sea and it is reported to have a Communication by a small Creek with this River of Alvarado and that Canoas may pass through it from one River to the other And at this Opening is a small Fishing Village The Land by the Sea is a continued high Sand-bank and so violent a Sea that it is impossible to Land with Boat or Canoa From this River to La Vera Cruz is 6 Leagues more the Coast still West There is a Riff of Rocks runs along the shore from Alvarado to Vera Cruz yet a good Channel for small Vessels to pass between it and the shore And about two Leagues to the East of Vera Cruz are two Islands called Sacrifice Islands I have set down the distance between Alvarado and La Vera Cruz according to the Common Account of 12 Leagues which I take to be truer but our Draughts make it 24. The Land by the Sea is much the same La Vera Cruz is a fair Town seated in the very bottom of the Bay of Mexico at the S. W. Point or Corner of the Bay for so far the Land runs West and there it turns about to the North. There is a good Harbour before it made by a small Island or Rock rather just in its Mouth which makes it very Commodious Here the Spaniards have built a strong Fort which commands the Harbour and there are great Iron Rings fix'd in the Fort-Wall against the Harbour for Ships to fasten their Cables For the North Winds blow so violently here in their Seasons that Ships are not safe at Anchors This Fort is called St. John d'Ulloa and the Spaniards do frequently call the Town of Vera Cruz by this Name The Town is a Place of great Trade being the Sea-Port to the City of Mexico and most of the great Towns and Cities in this Kingdom So that all the European Commodities spent in these Parts are Landed here and their Goods brought hither and Exported from hence Add to this that all the Treasure brought from Manila in the East Indies comes hither through the Country from Accapulca The Flota comes hither every three Years from Old Spain and besides Goods of the Product of the Country and what is brought from the East Indies and ship'd aboard them The King's Plate that is gathered in this Kingdom together with what belongs to the Merchants amounts to a vast Summ. Here also comes every Year the Barralaventa Fleet in October or November and stays till March. This is a small Squadron consisting of 6 or 7 Sail of stout Ships from 20 to 50 Guns These are ordered to visit all the Spanish Sea-Port Towns once every Year chiefly to hinder Foreigners from Trading and to suppress Privateers From this Port they go to the Havana on the North side of Cuba to sell their Commodities From hence they pass through the Gulph of Florida standing so far to the North as to be out of the Trade-Winds which are commonly between 30 d. and 40 d. of Lat. and being in a variable Winds-way they stretch away to the Eastwards till they may fetch Portarica if
they have Business there if not they keep still to the Eastward till they come to Trinidado an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards and the most Eastern part of any Consequence in the North Seas The Barralaventa Fleet touches there first and from thence sails to the Margarita a considerable Spanish Island near the Main From thence they Coast down to Comana and La Guiary and passing by the Coast of Carraccus they sail towards the Gulph of Mericaia from thence they double Cape La Vell and so down to Rio La Hacha St. Martha and Carthagena If they meet with any English or Dutch Trading-sloops they chase and take them if they are not too nimble for them the Privateers keep out of their way having always Intelligence where they are From Carthagena they sail to Portobelo and from thence to Campeachy and lastly to La Vera Cruz And this is their Annual Navigation about the West Indian Coast. La Vera Cruz was taken by the Privateers about the Year 85. under the conduct of one John Russel an old Logwood-Cutter that had formerly been taken by the Spaniards and sent to Mexico where learning Spanish he by that means escaped to La Vera Cruz and being released from thence he afterwards managed this Expedition From hence to Old Vera Cruz is 5 Leagues This was the first Town of that Name but wanting a good Harbour there it was removed to the place where it now stands From Old Vera Cruz to Tispo is about 15 Leagues the Coast lies N. and S. Tispo is a pretty handsom small Town built close by the Sea and watered with a little Rivulet but wanting a Harbour 't is destitute of any Maritime-Trade From Tispo to the River Panuk is about 20 Leagues The Coast lies N. and S. nearest 't is a large River descending out of the very Bowels of the Country and running East falls into the Gulph of Mexico in Lat. about 21 50 m. It has 10 or 11 Foot Water on the Bar and is often visited with Barks that sail up it as far as the City Panuk lying distant from the Sea about 20 Leagues and is the principal of this Country being a Bishops See There are two Churches one Convent and a Chapel and about 500 Families of Spaniards Mulatoes and Indians The Houses are large and strong with Stone VValls and they are thatched with Palmeto Leaves One Branch of this River comes out of the Lagune of Tompeque and mixes with this three Leagues before it falls into the Sea Therefore 't is sometimes called the River of Tompeque The Lagune of Tompeque lies on the South side of the River and breeds abundance of Fish especially Shrimps There is a Town of the same Name built on its Banks whose Inhabitants are most Fishermen Beyond this Lagune there is another large one wherein is an Island and Town named Haniago its Inhabitants most Fishermen whose chief employment is to take Shrimps These they boil with VVater and Salt in great Coppers for the purpose and having dryed them afterwards in the Sun they are made up in Packs and sent to all the chief Towns in the Country especially to Mexico where tho' but a hungry sort of Food they are mightily esteemed The Account I have given of the Campeachy Rivers c. was the result of the particular Observations I made in crusing about that Coast in which I spent 11 or 12 Months For when the violent Storm before-mentioned took us I was but just settling to VVork and not having a stock of VVood to purchase such Provision as was sent from Jamaica as the old Standards had I with many more in my circumstances was forced to range about to seek a subsistance in Company of some Privateers then in the Bay In which rambles we visited all the Rivers from Trist to Alvarado and made many Descents into the Country among the Villages there where we got Indian Corn to eat with the Beef and other Flesh that we got by the way or Manatee and Turtle which was also a great support to us Alvarado was the VVestermost place I was at Thither we went in two Barks with 30 Men in each and had 10 or 11 Men kill'd and desperately wounded in taking the Fort being four or five Hours engag'd in that Service in which time the Inhabitants having plenty of Boats and Canoas carried all their Riches and best Moveables away It was after Sun-set before the Fort yielded and growing dark we could not pursue them but rested quietly that Night the next Day we kill'd salted and sent aboard 20 or 30 Beefs and a good quantity of salt-fish and Indian Corn as much as we could stow away Here were but few Hogs and those eat very fishy therefore we did not much esteem them but of Cocks Hens and Ducks were sent aboard in abundance The tame Parrots we found here were the largest and fairest Birds of their kind that I ever saw in the West Indies Their colour was yellow and red very coursly mixt and they would prate very prettily and there was scarce a Man but what sent aboard one or two of them So that with Provision Chests Hencoops and Parrot-Cages our Ships were full of Lumber with which we intended to sail but the second day after we took the Fort having had a Westerly Wind all the Morning with Rain 7 Armadilloes that were sent from La Vera Cruz appeared in sight within a Mile of the Bars coming in with full sail but they could scarce stem the Current of the River which was very well for us for we were not a little surprized Yet we got under sail in order to meet them and clearing our Decks by heaving all the Lumber over board we drove out over the Bar before they reach'd it but they being to Wind-ward forced us to exchange a few shot with them Their Admiral was called the Toro She had 10 Guns and 100 Men another had 4 Guns and 80 Men the rest having no great Guns had only 60 or 70 Men a-piece armed with Muskets and the Vessels barricadoed round with Bull-hides Breast-high We had not above 50 Men in both Ships 6 Guns in one and two in the other Assoon as we were over the Bar we got our Larboard-Tacks aboard and stood to the Eastward as nigh the Wind as we could lye The Spaniards came away quartering on us and our Ship being the Head-most the Toro came directly towards us designing to Board us We kept firing at her in hopes to have lamed either Mast or Yard but failing just as she was shearing aboard we gave her a good Volley and presently clap'd the Helm a Weather wore our Ship and got our Starboard Tacks aboard and stood to the Westward and so left the Toro but were saluted by all the small Ctraft as we past by them who stood to the Eastward after the Toro that was now in pursuit and close by our Consort We stood to the Westward
the Planters had gotten his Goods or Board again which though all he had yet was but about half his lading of Sugar Molossoes and Rum He also moored his ship as secure as he could with all his Cables and Anchors besides some Cables which he had made fast ashore to great Trees And about 7 a Clock that evening that the storm came he dreading it went ashore with all his Men and retired into a poor Planters House about half a Mile from the shore By that time he and his Men were arrived at the House which was before 8 a Clock the Wind came on very fierce at N. E. and veering about to the N. and N. VV. settled there bringing with it very violent Rains Thus it continued about 4 hours and then fell flat calm and the Rain ceased In this Calm he sent 3 or 4 of his Men down to the Cove to see what condition the ship was in and they found her driven ashore dry on the Sand lying on one side with the Head of her Mast sticking into the Sand after they had walked round her and view'd her a while they returned again to the Capt. to give him an Account of the Disaster and made as much haste as they could because the Wind began to blow hard at S. VV. and it blew so violently before they recovered the House that the Boughs of the Trees whipt them sufficiently before they got thither and it rained as hard as before The little House could scarce shelter them from the wet for there was little beside the VValls standing For the first Northerly Gust blew away great part of the Ridg and most of the Thatch Yet there they stayed till the next Morning and then coming to the Ship found her almost upright but all the Goods that were in the Hold were wash'd out and the Sugar was wash'd out of the Cask Some of the Rum they found a Cask in one place and a Cask in another some on the shore and some half a Mile in the VVoods and some staved against the Trees and leeked out for it seems there had been a violent Motion in the Sea as well as in the Air. For in the beginning of the Night when the N. E. Gust raged the Sea ebb'd so prodigiously or else was driven off the shore by the violence of the VVind so far that some ships riding in the Harbour in 3 or 4 Fathom VVater were a-ground and lay so till the S. VV. Gust came and then the Sea came rowling in again with such prodigious fury that it not only set them a-float but dash'd many of them on the shore One of them was carried up a great way into the Woods another was strangely hurl'd on two Rocks that stood close by one another with her head resting on one Rock and her stern on the other And thus she lay like a Bridge between the two Rocks about 10 or 11 Foot above the Sea even in the highest Tides for the Tides do usually rise here but little not above 2 or 3 Foot but in these Hurricanes it always ebbs and flows again prodigiously It was not the Ships only that felt the fury of this storm but the whole Island suffered by it for the Houses were blown down the Tree store up by the Roots or had their Heads and Limbs sadly shattered neither was there any Leaves Herbs or green Thing left on the Island but all look'd like Winter Insomuch that a ship coming thither a little after that used that Trade could scarce believe it to be the same Island Neither did the fury of this storm light only here for Nevis and St. Christophers had their shares also but Mountsurat felt little of it tho' not above a Fortnight after there happened another storm as violent as this and raged extreamly there but did little damage at Nevis and St. Christophers Antego had a great share of this too Capt. Gadbury's ship that lay a-ground before it came was by it hurled over to the opposite part of the Harbour and there thrown dry on the Sand. The day after the storm the shore was strew'd with fish of divers sorts as well great as small such as Porpoises Sharks c. and abundance of Sea-Fowls also were destroyed by it I would not have any Man think that these Hurricanes or any other Storms do always give warning of their coming exactly alike For there may be some difference in those signs though all of them be plain enough if well observed Besides sometimes they are duplicated sometimes only single signs and sometimes the signs may be more visible and plain than at other times when by some accidental cause those signs may be less visible by Reason of some high Hill or Mountain that may be interpos'd between you and the Horizon especially if any Hill lyes N. E. from you which is the Quarter that Hurricanes do commonly rise in The Clouds that precede a Hurricane are different from the North Banks in this that whereas the Clouds preceding Norths are uniform and regular of an exact blackness even from the Horizon to the upper edg of it and that as streight and even as a Line stretched out On the contrary the Hurricane-Clouds tower up their Heads pressing forwards as if they all strove for precedency yet so linked one within another that all move alike Besides the edges of these Clouds are guilded with various and afrighting Colours the very edg of all seems to be of a pale fire colour next that of a dull yallow and nearer the Body of the Cloud of a Copper Colour and the Body of the Cloud which is very thick appears extraordinary Black and altogether it looks very terrible and amazing even beyond expression Though I have never been in any Hurricane in the West Indies yet I have seen the very Image of them in the East Indies the effects have been the very same and for my part I know no difference between a Hurricane among the Carribee Islands in the West Indies and a Tuffoon on the Coast of China in the East Indies but only the Name And I am apt to believe that both Words have one signification which is a violent Storm I have given a large Account of one of these in my Voyage round the World Chapter XV. Page 414. That gave warning by flattering Weather before hand and a very dismal Cloud set out with such colours as I have before described rising in the N. E. from whence the violence of the first Gust came which was wonderful fierce and accompanied with extraordinary hard Rain then it afterwards fell calm about an hour and then the Wind came about at S. W. and blew as fierce as it did before at N. E. which is much like the Hurricane before-mentioned at Antego but of a longer continuance than that Besides in both places they blow at one time of the Year which is in July August or September and commonly near the Full or Change of the
every house The Spaniards admired how they came so far from the mouth of the River because there are a sort of Indians living between that place and the Sea who are very dreadful to the Spaniards and will not have any commerce with them nor with any white people They use Trunks about 8 foot long out of which they blow poysoned Darts and are so silent in their attacks on their Enemies and retreat so nimbly again that the Spaniards can never find them Their Darts are made of Macaw-wood being about the bigness and length of a Knitting-needle one end is wound about with Cotton the other end is extraordinary sharp and small and is jagged with notches like a Harpoon So that whatever it strikes into it immediately breaks off by the weight of the biggest end which it is not of strength to bear it being made so slender for that purpose and is very difficult to be got out again by reason of those notches These Indians have always War with our Darien friendly Indians and live on both sides this great River 50 or 60 leagues from the Sea but not near the mouth of the River There are abundance of Manatee in this River and some Creeks belonging to it This relation I had from several men who accompany'd Captain Coxon in that discovery and from Mr. Cook in particular who was with them and is a very intelligent person He is now chief Mate of a Ship bound to Guinea To return therefore to the prosecution of our Voyage meeting with nothing of note we passed by Cartagene which is a City so well known that I shall say nothing of it We sailed by in sight of it for it lies open to the Sea and had a fair view of Madre de Popa or Nuestra Sennora de Popa a Monastery of the Virgin Mary's standing on the top of a very steep hill just behind Cartagene It is a place of incredible wealth by reason of the offerings made here continually and for this reason often in danger of being visited by the Privateers did not the neighbourhood of Cartagene keep them in awe 'T is in short the very Loretto of the West Indies it hath innumerable Miracles related of it Any misfortune that befalls the Privateers is attributed to this Lady s doing and the Spaniards report that she was abroad that night the Oxford Man of War was blown up at the Isle of Vacca near Hispaniola and that she came home all wet as belike she often returns with her Cloaths dirty and torn with passing thro Woods and bad ways when she has been out upon any expedition deserving doubtless a new suit for such eminent pieces of service From hence we passed on to the Rio Grande where we took up fresh Water at Sea a league off the mouth of that River From thence we sailed East-ward passing by St. Martha a large Town and good harbour belonging to the Spaniards yet hath it within these few years been twice taken by the Privateers It stands close upon the Sea and the Hill within land is a very large one towering up a great heighth from a vast body of Land I am of opinion that it is higher than the Pike of Tenariff others also that have seen both think the same tho its bigness makes its heighth less sensible I have seen it in passing by 30 leagues off at Sea others as they told me above 60 and several have told me that they have seen at once Jamaica Hispaniola and the high Land of Santa Martha and yet the nearest of these two places is distant from it 120 leagues and Jamaica which is farthest off is accounted near 150 leagues and I question whether any Land on either of those two Islands may be seen 50 leagues It 's head is generally hid in the Clouds but in clear wheather when the top appears it looks white supposed to be covered with Snow St. Martha lieth in the Lat. of 12 Deg. North. Being advanced 5 or 6 leagues to the Eastward of Santa Martha we left our Ships at Anchor and return'd back in our Canoa's to the River Grande entring it by a mouth of it that disembogues it self near Santa Martha purposing to attempt some Towns that lye a pretty way up that River But this design meeting with discouragements we return'd to our Ships and set sail to Rio la Hacha This hath been a strong Spanish Town and is well built but being often taken by the Privateers the Spaniards deserted it some time before our arrival It lieth to the Westward of a River and right against the Town is a good Road for Ships the bottom clean and sandy The Jamaica Sloops used often to come over to trade here and I am inform'd that the Spaniards have again settled themselves in it and made it very strong We enter'd the Fort and brought two small Guns aboard From thence we went to the Rancho-Reys one or two small Indian Villages where the Spaniards keep two Barks to fish for Pearl The Pearl-banks lye about 4 or 5 leagues off from the shore as I have been told thither the Fishing-Barks go and anchor then the Divers go down to the bottom and fill a Basket which is let down before with Oysters and when they come up others go down two at a time this they do till the Bark is full and then go ashore where the old men women and children of the Indians open the Oysters there being a Spanish Overseer to look after the Pearl Yet these Indians do very often secure the best Pearl for themselves as many Jamaica men can testifie who daily trade with them The meat they string up and hang it a drying At this place we went ashore where we found one of the Barks and saw great heaps of Oyster-shells but the people all fled Yet in another place between this and Rio La Recha we took some of the Indians who seem to be a stubborn sort of people They are long-visaged black hair their noses somewhat rising in the middle and of a stern look The Spaniards report them to be a very numerous Nation and that they will not subject themselves to their yoak Yet they have Spanish Priests among them and by trading have brought them to be somewhat sociable but cannot keep a severe hand over them The Land is but barren it being of a light sand near the Sea and most Savanah or Champian and the grass but thin and course yet they feed plenty of Cattle Every man knoweth his own and looketh after them but the Land is in common except only their Houses or small Plantations where they live which every man maintains with some sence about it They may remove from one place to another as they please no man having right to any Land but what he possesseth This part of the Country is not so subject to Rain as to the West-ward of Santa Martha yet here are Tornadoes or Thunder-showers but neither so violent as on the
remainder of these Islands of Cape Verd are St. Antonio Sta. Lucia St. Vincente and Bona-Vista of which I know nothing considerable Our entrance among these Islands was from the North East for in our passage from Virginia we ran pretty far toward the Coast of Gualata in Africk to preserve the Trade-wind lest we should be born off too much to the Westward and so lose the Islands We anchored at the South of Sall and passing by the South of St. Nicholas anchored again at Mayo as hath been said where we made the shorter stay because we could get no Flesh among the Inhabitants by reason of the regret they had at their Governour and his Mens being carried away by Captain Bond. So leaving the Isles of Cape Verd we stood away to the Southward with the Wind at E. N. E. intending to have touched no more till we came to the Streights of Magellan But when we came into the lat of 10 deg North we met the Winds at S. by W. and S. S. W. therefore we altered our resolutions and steered away for the Coast of Guinea and in few days came to the Mouth of the River of Sherboro which is an English Factory lying South of Sierra Liona We had one of our Men who was well acquainted there and by his direction we went in among the Shoals and came to an anchor Sherboro was a good way from us so I can give no account of the place or our Factory there save that I have been informed that there is a considerable Trade driven there for a sort of Red Wood for Dying which grows in that Country very plentifully 't is called by our people Cam-wood A little within the shore where we anchored was a Town of Negroes Natives of this Coast. It was skreen'd from our sight by a large Grove of Trees that grew between them and the shore but we went thither to them several times during the 3 or 4 days of our stay here to refresh our selves and they as often came aboard us bringing with them Plantains Sugar-canes Palm-wines Rice Fowls and Honey which they sold us They were no way shy of us being well acquainted with the English by reason of our Guinea-Factories and Trade This Town seem'd pretty large the Houses but low and ordinary but one great House in the midst of it where their chief men meet and receive Strangers and here they treated us with Palm-wine As to their Persons they are like other Negroes While we lay here we scrubb'd the bottom of our Ship and then fill'd all our Water-Casks and buying up two Puncheons of Rice for our Voyage we departed from hence about the middle of November 1683 prosecuting our intended course towards the Straights of Mágellan We had but little wind after we got out and very hot weather with some fierce Tornadoe's commonly rising out of the N. E. which brought Thunder Lightening and Rain These did not last long sometimes not a quarter of an hour and then the wind would shuffle about to the Southward again and fall flat calm for these Tornadoe's commonly come against the wind that is then blowing as our Thunder-Clouds are often observed to do in England but the Tornadoe's I shall describe more largely in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix to this Book At this time many of our men were taken with Feavers yet we lost but one While we lay in the calms we caught several great Sharks sometimes 2 or 3 in a day and eat them all boyling and squeezing them dry and then stewing them with Vinegar Pepper c. for we had but little flesh aboard We took the benefit of every Tornado which came sometimes 3 or 4 in day and carried what Sail we could to get to the Southward for we had but little wind when they were over and those small winds between the Tornadoe's were much against us at S. by E. and S. S. E. till we past the Equinoctial Line which we crost about a degree to the Eastward of the Meridian of the Isle of St. Jago off the Cape-Verd Islands At first we could scarce lye S. W. but being got a degree to the Southward of the Line the wind veer'd more Easterly and then we stemm'd S. W. by S. and as we got farther to the Southward so the wind came about to the Eastward and freshened upon us In the Lat. of 3 S. we had the wind at E. in the Lat. of 5 we had it at E. S. E. where it stood a considerable time and blew a fresh top gallant gale We then made the best use of it steering on briskly with all the Sail we could make and this wind by the 18 of Jan. carried us into the Lat. of 36 South In all this time we met with nothing worthy remark not so much as a Fish except Flying Fish which have been so often described that I think it needless for me to do it Here we found the Sea much changed from its natural greenness to a white or palish colour which caused us to sound supposing we might strike ground For when ever we find the colour of the Sea to change we know we are not far from Land or shoals which stretch out into the Sea running from some Land But here we found no ground with 100 fathom Line I was this day at noon by reckoning 48 d. 50 m. West from the Lizard the variation by our morning amplitude 15 d. 50 m. East the variation increasing The 20 day one of our Chyrurgeons dyed much lamented because we had but one more for such a dangerous Voyage January 28th we made the Sibbel de Wards which are 3 Islands lying in the lat of 51 d. 25 m. South and longitude West from the Lizard in England by my account 57 d. 28 m. the variation here we found to be 23 d. 10 m. I had for a month before we came hither endeavoured to perswade Captain Cook and his Company to anchor at these Islands where I told them we might probably get water as I then thought and in case we should miss of it here yet by being good Husbands of what we had we might reach John Fernando's in the South Seas before our water was spent This I urged to hinder their designs of going through the Straights of Magellan which I knew would prove very dangerous to us the rather because our men being Privateers and so more wilful and less under command would not be so ready to give a watchful attendance in a passage so little known For altho these men were more under command than I had ever seen any Privateers yet I could not expect to find them at a minutes call in coming to an anchor or weighing Anchor beside if ever we should have occasion to moor or cast out two Anchors we had not a Boat to carry out or weigh an Anchor These Islands of Sible de Wards were so named by the Dutch They are all three rocky barren Islands
difficulty over the Mountains where if 3 men are placed they may keep down as many as come against them on any side This was partly experienced by 5 Englishmen that Captain Davis left here who defended themselves against a great body of Spaniards who landed in the Bays and came here to destroy them and though the second time one of their Consorts deserted and fled to the Spaniards yet the other 4 kept their ground and were afterward taken in from hence by Captain Strong of London We remained at John Fernando's 16 days our sick men were ashore all the time and one of Captain Eaton's Doctors for he had 4 in his Ship tending and feeding them with Goat and several Herbs whereof here is plenty growing in the Brooks and their Diseases were chiefly Scorbutick CHAP. V. The Author departs from John Fernando's Of the Pacifick Sea Of the Andes or high Mountains in Peru and Chili A Prize taken Isle of Lobos Penguins and other Birds there Three Prizes more The Islands Gallapago's The Dildo tree Burton wood Mammet trees Guanoes Land Tortoise their several kind Green Snakes Turtle-Doves Tortoise or Turtle-grass Sea Turtle their several kinds The Air and Weather at the Gallapago's Some of the Islands describ'd their Soil c. The Island Cocos describ'd Cape Blanco and the Bay of Caldera the Sevanahs there Captain Cook dies Of Nicoya and a Red Wood for Dying and other Commodities A narrow Escape of 12 Men. Lance-wood Volean Vejo a burning Mountain on the Coast of Ria Lexa A Tornado The Island and Harbor of Ria Lexa The Gulph of Amapalla and Point Casivina Isles of Mangera and Amapalla The Indian Inhabitants Hog-plumb tree Other Islands in the Gulph of Amapalla Captain Eaton and Captain Davis careen their Ships here and afterwards part THE 8th of April 1684. we sailed from the Isle of John Fernando with the Wind at S. E. We were now 2 Ships in Company Captain Cook 's whose Ship I was in and who here took the Sickness of which he dy'd a while after and Captain Eaton's Our passage lay now along the Pacifick Sea properly so called For though it be usual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole Ocean calling it Mare Australe Mar del Zar or Mare Pacificum yet in my opinion the Name of the Pacifick Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 degrees South Latitude and from the American Shore Westward indefinitely with respect to my Observation who have been in these parts 250 Leagues or more from Land and still had the Sea very quiet from Winds For in all this Tract of Water of which I have spoken there are no dark rainy Clouds though often a thick Horizon so as to hinder an Observation of the Sun with the Quadrant and in the morning hazy weather frequently and thick Mists but scarce able to wet one Nor are there in this Sea any Winds but the Trade-wind no Tempests no Tornado's or Hurricans though North of the Equator they are met with as well in this Ocean as in the Atlantick yet the Sea it self at the new and full of the Moon runs with high large long Surges but such as never break out at Sea and so are safe enough unless that where they fell in and break upon the shore they make it bad landing In this Sea we made the best of our way toward the Line till in the lat of 24. S. where we fell in with the main Land of the South America All this course of the Land both of Chili and Peru is vastly high therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from shore being unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards dwelling there The Land especially beyond this from 24 deg S. Lat. to 17 and from 14 to 10 is of a most prodigious heighth It lies generally in ridges parallel to the Shore and 3 or 4 ridges one within another each surpassing other in heighth and those that are farthest within Land are much higher than the others They always appear blue when seen at Sea sometimes they are obscured with Clouds but not so often as the high Lands in other parts of the world for here are seldom or never any Rains on these Hills any more than in the Sea near it neither are they subject to Fogs These are the highest Mountains that ever I saw far surpassing the Pike of Tenariffe or Santa Martha and I believe any Mountains in the world I have seen very high Land in the Lat. of 30 South but not so high as in the Latitudes before described In Sir John Narborough's Voyage also to Baldivia a City on this Coast mention is made of very high Land seen near Baldivia and the Spaniard with whom I have discoursed have told me that there is very high Land all the way between Coquimbo which lies in about 30 deg S. Lat. and Baldivia which is in 40 South so that by all likelihood these ridges of Mountains do run in a continued Chain from one end of Peru and Chili to the other all along this South Sea Coast called usually the Andes or Sierra Nuevada des Andes The excessive heighth of these Mountains may possibly be the reason that there are no Rivers of note that fall into these Seas Some small Rivers indeed there are but very few of them for in some places there is not one that comes out into the Sea in 150 or 200 Leagues and where they are thickest they are 30 40 or 50 Leagues asunder and too little and shallow to be navigable Besides some of these do not constantly run but are dry at certain seasons of the year as the River of Ylo runs flush with a quick Current at the latter end of January and so continues till June and then it decreaseth by degrees growing less and running slow till the latter end of September when it fails wholly and runs no more till January again This I have seen at both seasons in two former Voyages I made hither and have been informed by the Spaniards that other Rivers on this Coast are of the like nature being rather Torrents or Land-floods caused by their Rains at certain seasons far within Land than Perennial Streams We kept still along in sight of this Coast but at a good distance from it encountring with nothing of Note till in the lat of 9 deg 40 min. South on the 3d of May we descried a Sail to the Northward of us She was plying to Windward we chaced her and Captain Eaton being a head soon took her she came from Guiaquil about a month before laden with Timber and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her she came from Santa whither she had gone for Water and where they had news of our being in these Seas by an Express from Baldivia for as we afterwards heard Captain Swan had been at Baldivia to seek a Trade there and he having met Captain
Seas is among these Gallapago Islands for here is plenty of Grass There is another sort of Green Turtle in the South Seas which are but small yet pretty sweet These lye Westward on the Coast of Mexico One thing is very strange and remarkable in these Creatures that at the breeding time they leave for 2 or 3 Months their common haunts where they feed most of the Year and resort to other places only to lay their Eggs And 't is not thought that they eat any thing during this Season So that both He 's and She 's grow very lean but the He 's to that degree that none will eat them The most remarkable places that I did ever hear of for their breeding is at an Island in the West Indies called Caimanes and the Isle Ascention in the Western Ocean and when the breeding time is past there are none remaining Doubtless they swim some hundreds of Leagues to come to those two places For it hath been often observed that at Caimanes at the breeding time there are found all those sorts of Turtle before described The South Keys of Cuba are above 40 Leagues from thence which is the nearest place that these Creatures can come from and it is most certain that there could not live so many there as come here in one Season Those that go to lay at Ascention must needs travel much farther for there is no Land nearer it than 300 Leagues And it is certain that these Creatures live always near the shore In the South Sea likewise the Gallapagos is the place where they live the biggest part of the Year yet they go from thence at their Season over to the Main to lay their Eggs which is 100 Leagues the nearest place Altho multitudes of these Turtles go from their common places of feeding and abode to those laying places yet they do not all go And at the time when the Turtlè resort to these places to lay their Eggs they are accompanied with abundance of Fish especially Sharks the places which the Turtle then leave being at that time destitute of Fish which follow the Turtle When the She 's go thus to their places to lay the Male accompany them and never leave them till their return Both Male and Female are Fat the begining of the Season but before they return the Male as I said are so lean that they are not fit to eat but the Female are good to the very last Yet not so Fat as at the beginning of the Season It is reported of these Creatures that they are 9 days engendring and in the Water the Male on the Females back It is observable that the Male while engendring do not easily forsake their Female For I have gone and taken hold of the Male when ingendring and a very bad striker may strike them then for the Male is not shie at all but the Female seeing a Boat when they rise to blow would make her escape but that the Male grasps her with his 2 fore Fins and holds her fast When they are thus coupled it is best to strike the Female first then you are sure of the Male also These Creatures are thought to live to a great Age and it is observed by the Jamaica Turtlers that they are many years before they come to their full growth The air of these Islands is temperate enough considering the Clime Here is constantly a fresh Sea breze all Day and cooling refreshing winds in the Night Therefore the heat is not so violent here as in most places near the Equator The time of the Year for the Rains is in November December and January Then there is oftentimes excessive dark Tempestuous weather mixt with much Thunder and Lightning Sometimes before and after these Months there are moderate refreshing Showers but in May June July and August the weather is alway very fair We staid at one of these Islands which lies under the Equator but one Night because our Prizes could not get into an Anchor We refresht our selves very well both with Land and Sea Turtles and the next day we failed from thence The next Island of the Gallapagos that we came to is but 2 Leagues from this 'T is Rocky and barren like this it is about 5 or 6 Leagues long and 4 broad We Anchored in the Afternoon at the North side of the Island a quarter of a Mile from the shore in 16 fathom water It is steep all round this Island and no Anchoring only at this place Here it is but ordinary riding for the ground is so steep that if an Anchor starts it never holds again and the wind is commonly off from the Land except in the Night when the Land-wind comes more from the West for there it blows right along the shore though but faintly Here is no water but in Ponds and holes of the Rocks That which we first Anchored at hath water on the North end falling down in a stream from high steep Rocks upon the Sandy Bay where it may be taken up As soon as we came to an Anchor we made a Tent ashore for Captain Cook who was sick Here we found the Sea Turtle lying ashore on the Sand this is not customary in the West Indies We turned them on their backs that they might not get away The next day more came up when we found it to be their custom to lye in the Sun so we never took care to turn them afterwards but sent ashore the Cook every morning who kill'd as many as served for the day This custom we observed all the time we lay here feeding sometimes on Land Turtle sometimes on Sea Turtle there being plenty of either sort Captain Davis came hither again a second time and then he went to other Islands on the West side of these There he found such plenty of Land Turtle that he and his Men eat nothing else for 3 Months that he staid there They were so Fat that he saved 60 Jars of Oyl out of those that he spent This Oyl served instead of Butter to eat with Dough-boys or Dumplin's in his return out of these Seas He found very convenient places to Careen and good Channels between the Islands and very good Anchoring in many places There he found also plenty of brooks of good fresh water and fire wood enough there being plenty of Trees fit for many uses Captain Harris one that we shall speak of hereafter came hither likewise and found some Islands that had plenty of Mammee-trees and pretty large Rivers The Sea about these Islands is plentifully stored with Fish such as are at John Fernando's They are both large and Fat and as plentiful here as at John Fernando's Here are particularly abundance of Sharks The North part of this second Isle we anchor'd at lyes 28 minutes North of the Equator I took the heighth of the Sun with an Astrolabe These Isles of the Gallapago's have plenty of Salt We stay'd here but 12 days in which
time we put ashore 5000 packs of flower for a reserve if we should have occasion of any before we left these Seas Here one of our Indian Prisoners informed us that he was born at Ria Lexa and that he would engage to carry us thither He being examin'd of the strength and riches of it satisfy'd the Company so well that they were resolv'd to go thither Having thus concluded the 12th of June we sailed from hence designing to touch at the Island Cocos as well to put ashore some Flower there as to see the Island because it was in our way to Ria Lexa We steer'd North till in Lat. 4. d. 40 min. intending then to steer W. by N. for we expected to have had the Wind at S. by E. or S. S. E. as wo had on the South side of the Equator Thus I had formerly found the Winds near the shore in these latitudes but when we first parted from the Gallapagos we had the Wind at S. and as we sailed farther North we had the Winds at S. by W. then at S. S. W. Winds which we did not expect We thought at first that the Wind would come about again to the South but when we came to sail off West to the Island Cocos we had the Wind at S. W. by S. and could lye but W. by N. Yet we stood that course till we were in the lat 5 d. 40 m. North and then despairing as the Winds were to find the Island Cocos we steer'd over to the Main for had we seen the Island then we could not have fetcht it being so far to the North of it The Island Cocos is so named by the Spaniards because there are abundance of Coco-nut Trees growing on it They are not only in one or two places but grow in great Groves all round the Island by the Sea This is an uninhabited Island it is 7 or 8 leagues round and pretty high in the middle where it is destitute of Trees but looks very green and pleasant with an Herb called by the Spaniards Gramadael It is low Land by the Sea side This Island is in 5 d. 15 m. North of the Equator it is environed with Rocks which makes it almost inaccessible only at the N. E. end there is a small Harbor where Ships may safely enter and ride secure In this Harbour there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea This is the account that the Spaniards give of it and I had the same also from Captain Eaton who was there afterward Any who like us had not experienced the nature of the Winds in these parts might reasonably expect that we could have sailed with a flown sheet to Ria Lexa but we found our selves mistaken for as we came nearer the shore we found the winds right in our Teeth but I shall refer my Reader to the Chapter of Winds in the Appendix for a further account of this We had very fair weather and small winds in this Voyage from the Gallapagos and at the beginning of July we fell in with Cape Blanca on the Main of Mexico This is so called from two white Rocks lying off it When we are off at Sea right against the Cape they appear as part of the Cape but being near the shore either to the Eastward or Westward of the Cape they appear like two Ships under sail at first view but coming nearer they are like two high Towers they being small high and steep on all sides and they are about half a mile from the Cape This Cape is in lat 9 d. 56 m. It is about the height of Beachy-head in England on the Coast of Sussex It is a full point with steep Rocks to the Sea The top of it is flat and even for about a mile then it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle descent It appears very pleasant being covered with great lofty Trees From the Cape on the N. W. side the Land runs in N. E. for about 4 leagues making a small Bay called by the Spaniards Caldera A league within Cape Blanco on the N. W. side of it and at the entrance of this Bay there is a small Brook of very good water running into the Sea Here the Land is low making a sadling between two small Hills It is very rich Land producing large tall Trees of many sorts the Mold is black and deep which I have always taken notice of to be a fat foil About a mile from this Brook towards the N. E. the VVood land terminates Here the Savannah land begins and runs some leagues into the Country making many small Hills and Dales These Savannahs are not altogether clear of Trees but are here and there sprinkled with small Groves which render them very delightful The Grass which grows here is very kindly thick and long I have seen none better in the West Indies Toward the bottom of the Bay the Land by the Sea is low and full of Mangroves but farther in the Country the Land is high and mountainous The Mountains are part VVoodland part Savannah The Trees in those VVoods are but small and short and the Mountain Savannahs are cloathed but with indifferent Grass From the bottom of this Bay it is but 14 or 15 leagues to the Lake of Nicaragua on the North-Sea Coast the way between is somewhat Mountanous but most Savannah Captain Cook who was taken sick at John Fernandoes continued so till we came within 2 or 3 leagues of Cape Blanco and then dyed of a sudden tho he seemed that morning to be as likely to live as he had been some weeks before but it is usual with sick men coming from the Sea where they have nothing but the Sea Air to dye off as soon as ever they come within the view of the Land About 4 hours after we all came to an Anchor namely the the Ship that I was in Captain Eaton and the great Meal Prize a league within the Cape right against the Brook of Fresh-water in 14 fathom clean hard Sand. Presently after we came to an Anchor Captain Cook was carried ashore to be buried 12 men carried their Arms to guard those that were ordered to dig the Grave for although we saw no appearance of Inhabitants yet we did not know but the Country might be thick inhabited And before Captain Cook was interrâ—…d 3 Spanish Indians came to the place where our men were digging the Grave and demanded what they were and from whence they came to whom our men answered they came from Lima and were bound to Ria Lexa but that the Captain of one of the Ships dying at Sea obligâ—…d them to come into this place to give him Christian burial The 3 Spanish Indians who were very shy at first began to be more bold and drawing nearer asked many silly questions and our men did not stick to sooth them up with as many falshoods purposely to draw them into their clutches Our men often
the Indians to hasten him into the Church The Indian immediately ran away and all the rest taking the alarm sprang out of the Church like Deer it was hard to say which was first and Captain Davis who knew nothing of what hapned was left in the Church only with the Fryer When they were all fled Captain Davis his Men fired and kill'd the Secretary and thus our hopes perished by the indiscretion of one foolish fellow In the afternoon the Ships came into the Gulf between Point Casivina and Mangera and anchored near the Island Amapalla on the East side in 10 fathom water clean hard Sand. In the evening Captain Davis and his company came aboard and brought the Fryer with them who told Captain Davis that if the Secretary had not been kill d he could have sent him a Letter by one of the Indians that was taken at Mangera and perswaded him to come to us but now the only way was to send one of those Indians to seek the Casica and that himself would instruct him what to say and did not question but the Casica would come in on his word The next day we sent ashore one of the Indians who before night returned with the Casica and 6 other Indians who remained with us all the time that we staid here These Indians did us good service especially in piloting us to an Island where we kill'd Beef whenever we wanted and for this their service we satisfied them to their hearts content It was at this Island Amapalla that a party of Englishmen and Frenchmen came afterwards and stay'd a great while and at last landed on the Main and marched over Land to the Cape River which disembogues into the North Seas near Cape Gratia Dios and is therefore called the Cape River Near the Head of this River they made Bark-logs which I shall describe in the next Chapter and so went into the North Seas This was the way that Captain Sharp had proposed to go if he had been put to it for this way was partly known to Privateers by the discovery that was made into the Country about 30 years since by a party of Englishmen that went up that River in Canoas about as far as the place where these Frenchmen made their Bark-logs there they landed and marched to a Town called Segevia in the Country They were near a month getting up the River for there are many Cataracts where they were often forced to leave the River and hale their Canoas ashore over the Land till they were past the Cataracts and then launch their Canoas again into the River I have discoursed several Men that were in that Expedition and if I mistake not Captain Sharp was one of them But to return to our Voyage in hand when both our Ships were clean and our Water fill'd Captain Davis and Captain Eaton broke off Consortships Captain Eaton took aboard of his Ships 400 Packs of Flower and sailed out of the Gulf the second day of September CHAP. VI. They depart from Amapalla Tornadoes Cape St. Francisco They meet Captain Eaton and part again Isle of Plata described Another meeting with Capt. Eaton and their final parting Point Sancta Hellena Algatrane a sort of Tar. A Spanish VVreck Cruisings Manta near Cape St. Lorenzo Monte Christo. Cruisings Cape Blanco Payta The Buildings in Peru. The Soil of Peru. Colan Bark-logs described Piura The Road of Payta Lobos de Terra They come again to Lobos de la Mar. The Bay of Guiaquil Isle of Sancta Clara. A rich Spanish Wreck there Cat-fish Point Arena in the Isle Puna The Island described The Palmeto tree Town and Harbour of Puna River of Guiaquil Guiaquil Town Its Commodities Cacao Sarsaparilla Quito cloth Of the City and Gold and Air of Quito They enter the Bay in order to make an attempt on the Town of Guiaquil A great advantage slipt that might have been made of a company of Negroes taken in Guiaquil River They go to Plata again Isle Plata THE third day of September 1684. we sent the Frier ashore and left the Indians in possession of the Prize which we brought in hither though she was still half laden with Flower and we sailed out with the Land Wind passing between Amapalla and Mangera When we were a league out we saw a Canoa coming with Sail and Oars after us therefore we shortened Sail and staid for her She was a Canoa sent by the Governor of St. Michaels Town to our Captain desiring him not to carry away the Frier The Messenger being told that the Frier was set ashore again at Amapalla he returned with joy and we made Sail again having the Wind at W. N. W. We steered towards the Coast of Peru we had Tornadoes every day till we made Cape St. Francisco which from June to November are very common on these Coasts and we had with the Tornadoes very much Thunder Lightning and Rain When the Tornadoes were over the Wind which while they lasted was most from the South East came about again to the West and never failed us till we were in sight of Cape St. Francisco where we found the Wind at South with fair weather This Cape is in lat 01 d. 00 North. It is a high bluff or full point of Land cloathed with tall great Trees Passing by this Point coming from the North you will see a small low Point which you might suppose to be the Cape but you are then past it and presently afterwards it appears with three points The Land in the Country within this Cape is very high and the Mountains commonly appear very black When we came in with this Cape we overtook Captain Eaton plying under the shore he in his passage from Amapalla while he was on that Coast met with such terrible Tornadoes of Thunder and Lightning that as he and all his Men related they had never met with the like in any place They were very much affrighted by them the Air smelling very much of Sulphur and they apprehending themselves in great danger of being burnt by the Lightning He touch'd at the Island Cocos and put ashore 200 Packs of Flower there and loaded his Boat with Coco Nuts and took in fresh water In the evening we separated again from Captain Eaton for he stood off to Sea and we plied up under the shore making our best advantage both of Sea and Land Winds The Sea Winds are here at South the Land Winds at S. S. E. but sometimes when we came abreast of a River we should have the Wind at S. E. The 20th day of September we came to the Island Plata and anchored in 16 fathom We had very good weather from the time that we fell in with Cape St. Francisco and were now fallen in again with the same places from whence I begin the account of this Voyage in the first Chapter having now compast in the whole Continent of the South America The Island Plata as some report
Spaniards might not see us and in the evening sent our Canoas ashore to take it mann'd with 110 men Payta is a small Spanish Sea-port Town in the lat of 5 d. 15 m. It is built on the Sand close by the Sea in a nook elbow or small bay under a pretty high hill There are not above 75 or 80 Houses and 2 Churches The Houses are but low and ill built The building in this Country of Peru is much alike on all the Sea-coast The Walls are built of Brick made with Earth and Straw kneaded together They are about 3 foot long 2 foot broad and a foot and half thick They never burn them but lay them a long time in the Sun to dry before they are used in building In some places they have no roofs only poles laid across from the side walls and cover'd with matts and then those walls are carry'd up to a considerable heighth But where they build roofs upon their Houses the walls are not made so high as I said before The Houses in general all over this Kingdom are but meanly built one chief reason with the common people especially is the want of materials to build withal for however it be more within Land yet here is neither Stone nor Timber to build with nor any materials but such Brick as I have described and even the Stone which they have in some places is so brittle that you may rub it into Sand with your fingers Another reason why they build so meanly is because it never rains therefore they only endeavour to fence themselves from the Sun Yet their walls which are built but with an ordinary sort of Brick in comparison with what is made in other parts of the world continue a long time as firm as when first made having never any winds nor rains to rot moulder or shake them However the richer sort have Timber which they make use of in building but it is brought from other places This dry Country commences to the Northward from about Cape Blanco to Coquimbo in about 30 d. S. having no Rain that I could ever observe or hear of nor any green thing growing in the Mountains neither yet in the Valleys except where here and there water'd with a few small Rivers dispers'd up and down So that the Northernmost parts of this Tract of Land are supplied with Timber from Guiaquil Galleo Tornato and other places that are watered with Rains where there are plenty of all sort of Timber In the South parts as about Guasco and Coquimbo they fetch their Timber from the Island Chiloe or other places thereabouts The walls of Churches and rich mens Houses are whitened with Lime both within and without and the doors and posts are very large and adorned with carved work and the beams also in the Churches The inside of the Houses are hung round with rich embroydered or painted Cloaths They have likewise abundance of fine Pictures which adds no small ornament to their House these I suppose they have from Old Spain But the Houses of Payta are none of them so richly furnished The Churches were large and fairly carved At one end of the Town there was a small Fort close by the Sea but no great Guns in it This Fort only with Musquets will command all the Bay so as to hinder any Boats from landing There is another Fort on the top of the Hill just over the Town which commands both it and the lower Fort. There is neither Wood nor Water to be had here They fetch their Water from an Indian Town called Colan about 2 leagues N. N. E. from Payta for at Colan there is a small River of fresh Water which runs out into the Sea from whence Ships that touch at Payta are supplied with Water and other refreshments as Fowls Hogs Plantains Yames and Maize Payta being destitute of all these things only as they fetch them from Colan as they have occasion The Indians of Colan are all Fisher-men They go out to Sea and fish on Bark-logs Bark-logs are made of many round logs of Wood in manner of a Raft and very different according to the use that they are design'd for or the humour of the people that make them or the matter that they are made of If they are made for Fishing then they are only 3 or 4 logs of Light-wood of 7 or 8 foot long plac'd by the side of each other pinn'd fast together with wooden pins and bound hard with withes The Logs are so plac'd that the middlemost are longer than those by the sides especially at the head or fore-part which grows narrower gradually into an angle or point the better to cut through the Water Others are made to carry Goods The bottom of these is made of 20 or 30 great Trees of about 20 30 or 40 foot long fasten'd as the other side to side and so shaped On the top of these they place another shorter row of Trees across them pinn'd fast to each other and then pinn'd to the undermost row this double row of Planks makes the bottom of the Float and of a considerable breadth From this bottom the Raft is raised to about 10 foot higher with rows of Posts sometimes set upright and supporting a floor or two but those I observ'd were rais'd by thick Trees laid across each other as in Wood Piles only not close together as in the bottom of the Float but at the ends and sides only so as to leave the middle all hollow like a Chamber except that here and there a beam goes across it to keep the Float more compact In this hollow at about 4 foot heighth from the beams at the bottom they lay small poles along and close together to make a floor for another Room on the top of which also they lay another such floor made of Poles and the entrances into both these Rooms is only by creeping between the great traverse Trees which make the Walls of this Sea-house The lowest of these stories serves as a Cellar there they lay great Stones for Ballast and their Jars of fresh-water closed up and whatever may bear being wet for by the weight of the Ballast and Cargo the bottom of this Room and of the whole Vessel is sunk so deep as to lye 2 or 3 feet within the surface of the Water The second story is for the Sea-men and their necessaries Above this second stroy the Goods are stowed to what heighth they please usually about 8 or 10 feet and kept together by poles set upright quite round only there is a little space abaft for the Steers-man for they have a large Rudder and afore for the Fire-hearth to dress their Victuals especially when they make long Voyages as from Lima to Truxillo or Guiaquil or Panama which last Voyage is 5 or 600 leagues In the midst of all among the Goods rises a Mast to which is fasten'd a large Sail as in our West-Country Barges in the Thames They
never see one Pearl Oyster about them nor any Pearl Oyster Shells but on the other Oysters I have made many a Meal there The northermost Island of all this range is called Pacheca or Pacheque This is but a small Island distant from Panama 11 or 12 leagues The Southermost of them is called St. Pauls Besides these two I know no more that are called by any particular name though there are many that far exceed either of the two in bigness Some of these Islands are planted with Plantains and Bonanas and there are Fields of Rice on others of them The Gentlemen of Panama to whom they belong keep Negroes there to plant weed and husband the Plantations Many of them especially the largest are wholly untill'd yet very good fat Land full of large Trees These unplanted Islands shelter many Runaway Negroes who abscond in the Woods all day and in the night boldly pillage the Plantain Walks Betwixt these Islands and the Main is a Channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide there is good depth of Water and good anchoring all the way The Islands border thick on each other yet they make many small narrow deep Channels fit only for Boats to pass between most of them At the S. E. end about a league from St. Pauls Island there is a good place for Ships to careen or hale ashore It is surrounded with the Land and hath a good deep Channel on the North side to go in at The tide riseth here about 10 foot perpendicular We brought our Ships into this place the 25th day but were forced to tarry for a Spring Tide before we could have Water enough to clean them therefore we first cleaned our Barks that they might cruise before Panama while we lay here The 27th day our Barks being clean we sent them out with 20 Men in each The fourth day after they returned with a Prize laden with Maiz or Indian Corn Salt Beef and Fowls She came from Lavelia and was bound to Panama Lavelia is a Town we once designed to attempt It is pretty large and stands on the Banks of a River on the North side of the Bay of Panama 6 or 7 leagues from the Sea Nata is another such Town standing in a Plain near another branch of the same River In these Towns and some others on the same Coast they breed Hogs Fowls Bulls and Cows and plant Maize purposely for the support of Panama which is supplied with Provision mostly from other Towns and the neighbouring Islands The Beef and Fowl our Men took came to us in a good time for we had eaten but little Flesh since we left the Island Plata The Harbor where we careen'd was incompassed by three Islands and our Ships rode in the middle That on which we haled our Ships ashore was a little Island on the North side of the Harbor The was a fine small sandy Bay but all the rest of the Island was invironed with Rocks on which at low Water we did use to gather Oysters Clams Muscles and Limpits The Clam is a sort of Oyster which grows so fast to the Rock that there is no separating it from thence therefore we did open it where it grows and take out the Meat which is very large fat and sweet Here are a few common Oysters such as we have in England of which sort I have met with none in these Seas but here at Point Garachina at Puna and on the Mexican Coast in the lat of 23 d. North. I have a Manuscript of Mr. Teat Captain Swan's chief Mate which gives an account of Oysters plentifully found in Port St. Julian on the East side and somewhat to the North of the Streights of Magellan but there is no mention made of what Oysters they are Here are some Guanoes but we found no other sort of Land Animal Here are also some Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The rest of the Islands that incompass this Harbor had of all these sorts of Creatures Our Men therefore did every day go over in Canoas to them to fish fowl or hunt for Guanoes but having one Man surprized once by some Spaniards lying there in Ambush and carried off by them to Panama we were after that more cautious of straggling The 14th day of February 1685. we made an end of cleaning our Ship fill'd all our Water and stock'd our selves with Fire-wood The 15th day we went out from among the Islands and anchored in the Channel between them and the Main in 25 fathom Water fast oazy ground The Plate Fleet was not yet arrived therefore we intended to cruise before the City of Panama which is from this place about 25 leagues The next day we sailed towards Panama passing in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main It is very pleasant sailing here having the Main on one side which appears in divers forms It is beautified with many small Hills cloathed with Woods of divers sorts of Trees which are always green and flourishing There are some few small high Islands within a league of the Main scattering here and there one These are partly woody partly bare and they as well as the Main appear very pleasant The Kings Islands are on the other side of this Channel and make also a very lovely prospect as you sail by them These as I have already noted are low and flat appearing in several shapes according as they are naturally formed by many small Creeks and Branches of the Sea The 16th day we anchored at Pacheque in 17 fathom Water about a league from the Island and sailed from thence the next day with the Wind at N. N. E. directing our course towards Panama When we came abrest of Old Panama we anchored and sent our Canoa ashore with our Prisoner Don Diego de Pinas with a Letter to the Governor to treat about an Exchange for our Man they had spirited away as I said and another Captain Harris left in the River of St. Maria the year before coming over Land Don Diego was desirous to go on this Errand in the name and with the consent of the rest of our Spanish Prisoners but by some accident he was killed before he got ashore as we heard afterwards Old Panama was formerly a famous place but it was taken by Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673. and at that time great part of it was burned to ashes and it was never re-edified since New Panama is a very fair City standing close by the Sea about 4 mile from the Ruines of the Old Town It gives name to a large Bay which is famous for a great many navigable Rivers some whereof are very rich in Gold it is also very pleasantly sprinkled with Islands that are not only profitable to their Owners but very delightful to the Passengers and Seamen that sail by them some of which I have already described It is incompassed on the backside with a pleasant Country which is full of small Hills and Valleys beautified with
from all parts But Panama as it is not overcharg d with men so unreasonably as the other tho very full so it enjoys a good air lying open to the Sea wind which riseth commonly about 10 or 11 a clock in the morning and continues till 8 or 9 a clock at night then the Land wind comes and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning There are no Woods nor Marshes near Panama but a brave dry Champain land not subject to fogs nor mists The wet season begins in the latter end of May and continues till November At that time the Sea breezes are at S. S. W. and the Land winds at N. At the dry season the winds are most betwixt the E. N. E. and the North Yet off in the Bay they are commonly at South but of this I shall be more particular in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix The rains are not so excessive about Panama it self as on either side of the Bay yet in the months of June July and August they are severe enough Gentlemen that come from Peru to Panama especially in these months cut their hair close to preserve them from Fevers for the place is sickly to them because they come out of a Country which never hath any Rains or Fogs but enjoys a constant serenity but I am apt to believe this City is healthy enough to any other people Thus much for Panama The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of the Islands Perico which are only 3 little barren rocky Islands in expectation of the President of Panama s Answer to the Letter I said we sent him by Don Diego treating about exchange of Prisoners this being the day on which he had given us his Parole to return with an Answer The 21st day we took another Baâ—…k laden with Hogs Fowl Salt Beef and Molossoes she came from Lavelia and was going to Panama In the afternoon we sent another Letter ashore by a young Mostiso a mixt brood of Indians and Europeans directed to the President and 3 or 4 Copies of it to be dispersed abroad among the common People This Letter which was full of Threats together with the young Man's managing the business wrought so powerfully among the common People that the City was in an uproar The President immediately sent a Gentleman aboard who demanded the Flower Prize that we took off of Gallo and all the Prisoners for the Ransom of our two Men but our Captains told him they would exchange Man for Man The Gentleman said he had not orders for that but if we would stay till the next day he would bring the Governours answer The next day he brought aboard our two Men and had about 40 Prisoners in exchange The 24th day we run over to the Island Tabago Tabago is in the Bay and about 6 leagues South of Panama It is about 3 mile long and 2 broad a high mountainous Island On the North side it declines with a gentle descent to the Sea The Land by the Sea is of a black Mold and deep but toward the top of the Mountain it is strong and dry The North side of this Island makes a very pleasant shew it seems to be a Garden of Fruit inclosed with many high Trees the chiefest Fruits are Plantains and Bonana's They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it but those near the top are but small as wanting moisture Close by the Sea there are many Coco Nut Trees which make a very pleasant sight Within the Coco Nut Trees there grow many Mammet Trees The Mammet is a large tall and streight-bodied Tree clean without Knots or Limbs for 60 or 70 foot or more The Head spreads abroad into many small Limbs which grow pretty thick and close together The Bark is of a dark grey colour thick and rough full of large chops The Fruit is bigger than Quince it is round and covered with a thick Rind of a grey colour When the Fruit is ripe the Rind is yellow and tough and it will then peel off like Leather but before it is ripe it is brittle the Juice is then white and clammy but when ripe not so The ripe Fruit under the Rind is yellow as a Carret and in the middle are two large rough Stones flat and each of them much bigger than an Almond The Fruit smells very well and the taste is answerable to the smell The S. W. end of the Island hath never been cleared but is full of Fire-wood and Trees of divers sorts There is a very fine small Brook of fresh Water that springs out of the side of the Mountain and gliding through the Grove of Fruit-trees falls into the Sea on the North side There was a small Town standing by the Sea with a Church at one end but now the biggest part of it is destroyed by the Privateers There is good anchoring right against the Town about a mile from the shore where you may have 16 or 18 fathom Water soft oazy ground There is a small Island close by the N. W. end of this called Tabogilla which is a small Channel to pass between There is another woody Island about a mile on the N. E. side of Tabago and a good Channel between them this Island hath no Name that ever I heard While we lay at Tabago we had like to have had a scurvy trick plaid us by a pretended Merchant from Panama who came as by stealth to traffick with us privately a thing common enough with the Spanish Merchants both in the North and South Seas notwithstanding the severe Prohibitions of the Governours who yet sometimes connive at it and will even trade with the Privateers themselves Our Merchant was by agreement to bring out his Bark laden with Goods in the night and we to go and anchor at the South of Perico Out he came with a Fireship instead of a Bark and approached very near haling us with the Watch word we had agreed upon We suspecting the worst call d to them to come to an anchor and upon their not doing so fired at them when immediately their Men going out into the Canoas set fire to their Ship which blew up and burnt close by us so that we were forced to cut our Cables in all haste and scamper away as well as we could The Spaniard was not altogether so politick in appointing to meet us at Perico for there we had Sea-room whereas had he come thus upon us at Tabago the Land-wind bearing hard upon us as it did we must either have been burnt by the Fireship or upon loosing our Cables have been driven ashore But I suppose they chose Perico rather for the Scene of their Enterprize partly because they might there best sculk among the Islands and partly because if their Exploit fail d they could thence escape best from our Canoas to Panama but 2 leagues off During this Exploit Captain Swan whose Ship was less than ours and so not so much
consorted with us and set his Men to work to make Canoas Every Ships company made for themselves but we all helped each other to launch them for some were made a mile from the Sea The manner of making a Canoa is after cutting down a large long Tree and squaring the upper-most side and then turning it upon the flat side to shape the opposite side for the bottom Then again they turn her and dig the inside boring also three holes in the bottom one before one in the middle and one aloft thereby to gage the thickest of the bottom for otherwise we might cut the bottom thinner than is convenient We left the bottoms commonly about 3 inches thick and the sides 2 inches thick below and one and an half at the top One or both of the ends we sharpen to a point Captain Davis made two very large Canoas one was 36 foot long and 5 or 6 feet wide the other 32 foot long and near as wide as the other In a months time we finished our business and were ready to sail Here Captain Harris went to lay his Ship aground to clean her but she being old and rotten fell in pieces and therefore he and all his Men went aboard of Captain Davis and Captain Swan While we lay here we struck Turtle every day for they were now very plentiful but from August to March here are not many The 18th day of July John Rose a Frenchman and 14 Men more belonging to Captain Gronet having made a new Canoa came in her to Captain Davis and desired to serve under him and Captain Davis accepted of them because they had a Canoa of their own The 20th day of July we sailed from Quibo bending our course for Ria Lexa which is the Port for Leon the City that we now designed to attempt We were now 640 men in 8 sail of Ships Commanded by Captain Davis Captain Swan Captain Townly and Captain Knight with a Fireship and 3 Tenders which last had not a constant crew We past out between the River Quibo and the Rancheria leaving Quibo and Quicaro on our Larboard side and the Rancheria with the rest of the Islands and the Main on our Starboard side The Wind at first was at South South West We coasted along shore passing by the Gulf of Nicoya the Gulf of Dulce and by the Island Caneo All this Coast is low Land overgrown with thick Woods and there are but few inhabitants near the shore As we sailed to the Westward we had variable winds sometimes S. W. and at W. S. W. and sometimes at E. N. E. but we had them most commonly at S. W. we had a Tornado or two every day and in the evening or in the night we had land winds at N. N. E. The 8th day of August being in the lat of 11 d. 20 m. by observation we saw a high Hill in the Country towring up like a Sugar-loaf which bore N. E. by N. We supposed it to be Volcan Vejo by the smoak which ascended from its top therefore we steered in North and made it plainer and then knew it to be that Volcan which is the Sea-mark for the harbour for Ria Lexo for as I said before in Chapter the 5th it is a very remarkable Mountain When we had brought this Mountain to bear N. E. we got out all our Canoas and provided to embark into them the next day The 9th day in the morning being about 8 leagues from the shore we left our Ships under the charge of a few men and 520 of us went away in 31 Canoas rowing towards the Harbour of Ria Lexa We had fair Weather and little Wind till 2 a clock in the afternoon then we had a Tornado from the shore with much Thunder Lightning and Rain and such a gust of Wind that we were all like to be founder d. In this extremity we put right afore the Wind every Canoas crew making what shift they could to avoid the threatning danger The small Canoas being most light and buoyant mounted nimbly over the Surges but the great heavy Canoas lay like logs in the Sea ready to be swallowed by every foaming billow Some of our Canoas were half full of water yet kept two men constantly heaving it out The fierceness of the Wind continued about half an hour and abated by degrees and as the Wind died away so the fury of the Sea abated For in all hot Countries as I have observed the Sea is soon raised by the Wind and as soon down again when the Wind is gone and therefore it is a proverb among the Sea-men Up Wind up Sea Down Wind down Sea At 7 a clock in the evening it was quite calm and the Sea as smooth as a Mill-pond Then we tugg'd to get into the shore but finding we could not do it before day we rowed off again to keep our selves out of sight By that time it was day we were 5 leagues from the Land which we thought was far enough off shore Here we intended to lye till the evening but at 3 a clock in the afternoon we had another Tornado more fierce than that which we had the day before This put us in greater peril of our lives but did not last so long As soon as the violence of the Tornado was over we rowed in for the shore and entered the Harbour in the night The Creek which leads towards Leon lieth on the S. E. side of the Harbour Our Pilot being very well acquainted here carried us into the mouth of it but could carry us no farther till day because it is but a small Creek and there are other Creeks like it The next morning as soon as it was light we rowed into the Creek which is very narrow the Land on both sides lying so low that every tide it is overflown with the Sea This sort of Land produceth red Mangrove-trees which are here so plentiful and thick that there is no passing thro them Beyond these Mangroves on the firm Land close by the side of the River the Spaniards have built a Brestwork purposely to hinder an Enemy from landing When we came in sight of the Brestwork we rowed as fast as we could to get ashore The noise of our Oars allarmed the Indians who were set to watch and presently they ran away towards the City of Leon to give notice of our approach We landed as soon as we could and marched after them 470 men were drawn out to march to the Town and I was left with 59 men more to stay and guard the Canoas till their return The City of Leon is 20 mile up in the Country The way to it plain and even through a champion Country of long grassy Savannahs and spots of high Woods About 5 mile from the landing place there is a Sugar work 3 mile farther there is another and 2 mile beyond that there is a fine River to ford which is not very deep besides which there is
up their mother Fruit did not the Indians who plant large fields of these Trees when once they perceive the Fruit open take care to drive them out for they spread under the branches of the Tree a large Linnen cloth and then with sticks they shake the branches and so disturb the poor insects that they take wing to be gone yet hovering still over the head of their native Tree but the heat of the Sun so disorders them that they presently fall down dead on the cloth spread for that purpose where the Indians let them remain 2 or 3 days longer till they are throughly dry When they fly up they are red when they fall down they are black and when first they are quite dry they are white as the sheet wherein they lye though the colour change a little after These yield the much esteemed Scarlet The Cochineel-trees are called by the Spaniards Toona's They are planted in the Country about Guatimala and about Cheape and Guaxaca all 3 in the Kingdom of Mexico The Silvester is a red grain growing in a Fruit much resembling the Cochineel-fruit as doth also the Tree that bears it There first shoots forth a yellow Flower then comes the Fruit which is longer than the Cochineel-fruit The Fruit being ripe opens also very wide The inside being full of these small Seeds or Grains they fall out with the least touch or shake The Indians that gather them hold a dish under to receive the Seed and then shake it down These Trees grow wild and 8 or 10 of these Fruits will yield an ounce of Seed but of the Cochineel-fruits 3 or 4 will yield an ounce of insects The Silvester gives a colour almost as fair as the Cochineel and so like it as to be often mistaken for it but it is not near so valuable I often made enquiry how the Silvester grows and of the Cochineel but was never fully satisfied till I met a Spanish Gentleman that had lived 30 years in the West Indies and some years where these grow and from him I had these relations He was a very intelligent person and pretended to be well acquainted in the Bay of Campechy therefore I examined him in many particulars concerning that Bay where I was well acquainted my self living there 3 years He gave very true and pertinent answers to all my demands so that I could have no distrust of what he related When we first saw the Mountain of Guatimala we were by judgment 25 leagues distance from it As we came nearer the Land it appeared higher and plainer yet we saw no fire but a little smoak proceeding from it The Land by the Sea was of a good height yet but low in comparison with that in the Country The Sea for about 8 or 10 leagues from the shore was full of floating Trees or Drift Wood as it is called of which I have seen a great deal but no where so much as here and Pumice-stones floating which probably are thrown out of the burning Mountains and washed down to the shore by the Rains which are very violent and frequent in this Country and on the side of Honduras it is excessively wet The 24th day we were in lat 14 d. 30 m. North and the weather more settled Then Captain Townly took with him 106 men in 9 Canoas and went away to the Westward where he intended to Land and romage in the Country for some refreshment for our sick men we having at this time near half our men sick and many were dead since we left Ria Lexa We in the Ships lay still with our Topsails furled and our Corses or lower Sails hal'd up this day and the next that Captain Townly might get the start of us The 26th day we made sail again coasting to the Westward having the Wind at North and fair weather We ran along by a tract of very high Land which came from the Eastward more within Land than we could see after we fell in with it it bare us company for about 10 leagues and ended with a pretty gentle descent towards the West There we had a perfect view of a pleasant low Country which seemed to be rich in Pasturage for Cattle It was plentifully furnished with groves of green Trees mixt among the grassy Savannahs Here the Land was fenced from the Sea with high sandy Hills for the Waves all along this Coast run high and beat against the shore very boisterously making the Land wholly unapproachable in Boats or Canoas So we Coasted still along by this low Land 8 or 9 leagues farther keeping close to the shore for fear of missing Captain Townly We lay by in the night and in the day made an easie sail The 2d day of October Captain Townly came aboard he had coasted along shore in his Canoas seeking for an entrance but found none At last being out of hopes to find any Bay Creek or River into which he might safely enter he put ashore on a sandy Bay but overset all his Canoas he had one man drowned and several lost their Arms and some of them that had not waxt up their Cartrage or Catouche Boxes wet all their Powder Captain Townly with much ado got ashore and dragged the Canoas up dry on the Bay then every man searched his Catouche-box and drew the wet Powder out of his Gun and provided to march into the Country but finding it full of great Creeks which they could not ford they were forced to return again to their Canoas In the night they made good fires to keep themselves warm the next morning 200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them but were immediately repulsed and made greater speed back than they had done forward Captain Townly followed them but not far for fear of his Canoas These men came from Teguantapeque a Town that Captain Townly went chiefly to seek because the Spanish Books make mention of a large River there but whether it was run away at this time or rather Captain Townly and his men were short sighted I know not but they could not find it Upon his return we presently made sail coasting still Westward having the Wind at E. N. E. fair weather and a fresh gale We kept within 2 mile of the shore sounding all the way and found at 6 miles distance from Land 19 fathom at 8 miles distance 21 fathom gross Sand. We saw no opening nor sign of any place to land at so we sailed about 20 leagues farther and came to a small high Island called Tangola where there is good anchoring The Island is indifferently well furnished with Wood and Water and lieth about a league from the shore The Main against the Island is pretty high champion Savannah Land by the Sea but 2 or 3 leagues within land it is higher and very woody We coasted a league farther and came to Guatulco This Port is in lat 15 d. 30 m. it is one of the best in all this Kingdom of Mexico Near a mile
from the mouth of the Harbour on the East side there is a little Island close by the shore and on the West side of the mouth of the Harbour there is a great hollow Rock which by the continual working of the Sea in and out makes a great noise which may be heard a great way Every Surge that comes in forceth the Water out of a little hole on its top as out of a pipe from whence it flys out just like the blowing of a Whale to which the Spaniards also liken it They call this Rock and Spout the Buffadore upon what account I know not Even in the calmest seasons the Sea beats in there making the Water spout out at the hole so that this is always a good mark to find the Harbour by The Harbour is about 3 mile deep and one mile broad it runs in N. W. But the West side of the Harbour is best to ride in for small Ships for there you may ride land-locked whereas any where else you are open to the S. W. Winds which often blow here There is good clean ground any where and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6 fathom it is bounded with a smooth sandy shore very good to land at and at the bottom of the Harbour there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea Here formerly stood a small Spanish Town or Village which was taken by Sir Francis Drake but now there is nothing remaining of it beside a little Chappel standing among the Trees about 200 paces from the Sea The Land appears in small short ridges parallel to the shore and to each other the innermost still gradually higher than that nearer the shore and they are all cloathed with very high flourishing Trees that it is extraordinary pleasant and delightful to behold at a distance I have no where seen any thing like it At this place Captain Swan who had been very sick came ashore and all the sick Men with him and the Surgeon to tend them Captain Townley again took a company of Men with him and went into the Country to seek for Houses or Inhabitants He marched away to the Eastward and came to the River Capalita which is a swift River yet deep near the mouth and is about a league from Guatulco There 2 of his Men swam over the River and took 3 Indians that were placed there as Centinels to watch for our coming These could none of them speak Spanish yet our Men by signs made them understand that they desired to know if there was any Town or Village near who by the signs which they made gave our Men to understand that they could guide them to a Settlement but there was no understanding by them whether it was a Spanish or Indian Settlement nor how far it was thither They brought these Indians aboard with them and the next day which was the 6th day of October Captain Townly with 140 Men of whom I was one went ashore again taking one of these Indians with us for a Guide to conduct us to this Settlement Our Men that stay'd aboard fill'd our Water and cut Wood and mended our Sails and our Moskito Men struck 3 or 4 Turtle every day They were a small sort of Turtle and not very sweet yet very well esteemed by us all because we had eaten no flesh a great while The 8th day we returned out of the Country having been about 14 miles directly within land before we came to any Settlement There we found a small Indian Village and in it a great quantity of Vinello's drying in the Sun The Vinello is a little Cod full of small black seeds it is 4 or 5 inches long about the bigness of the stem of a Tobacco leaf and when dried much resembling it so that our Privateers at first have often thrown them away when they took any wondering why the Spaniards should lay up Tobacco stems This Cod grows on a small Vine which climbs about and supports it self by the neighbouring Trees it first bears a yellow Flower from whence the Cod afterwards proceeds It is first green but when ripe it turns yellow then the Indians whose Manufacture it is and who sell it cheap to the Spaniards gather it and lay it in the Sun which makes it soft then it changes to a Chesnut-colour Then they frequently press it between their fingers which makes it flat If the Indians do any thing to them beside I know not but I have seen the Spaniards sleek them with Oyl These Vines grow plentifully at Bocca-toro where I have gathered and tried to cure them but could not which makes me think that the Indians have some secret that I know not of 10 cure them I have often asks the Spaniards how they were cured but I never could meet with any could tell me One Mr. Cree also a very curious person who spake Spanish well and had been a Privateer all his Life and 7 years a Prisoner among the Spaniards at Portobel and Cartagena yet upon all his enquiry could not find any of them that understood it Could we have learnt the Art of it several of us would have gone to Bocca-toro yearly at the dry season and cured them and freighted our Vessel We there might have had Turtle enough for food and store of Vinello's Mr. Cree first shewed me those at Bocca-toro At or near a Town also called Caihooca in the Bay of Campeachy these Cods are found They are commoly sold for 3 pence a Cod among the Spaniards in the West-Indies and are sold by the Druggist for they are much used among Chocolate to perfume it Some will use them among Tobacco for it gives a delicate scent I never heard of any Vinello's but here in this Country about Caihooca and at Bocca-toro The Indians of this Village could speak but little Spanish They seemed to be a poor innocent people and by them we understood that here are very few Spaniards in these parts yet all the Indians hereabout are under them The Land from the Sea to their Houses is black Earth mixt with some Stones and Rocks all the way full of very high Trees The 10th day we sent 4 Canoas to the West-ward who were ordered to lye for us at Port Angels where we were in hopes that by some means or other they might get Prisoners that might give us a better account of the Country than at present we could have and we followed them with our Ships all our Men being now pretty well recovered of the Fever which had raged amongst us ever since we departed from Ria Lexa CHAP. IX They set out from Guatulco The Isle Sacrificio Port Angels Jaccals A narrow Escape The Rock Algatross and the neighbouring Coast. Snooks a sort of Fish The Town of Acapulco Of the Trade it drives with the Philippine Islands The Haven of Acapulco A Tornado Port Marquis Capt. Townly makes a fruitless Attempt A long sandy Bay but very rough Seas The Palm tree great
28th day we anchored in the bottom of the Bay the Valley of Balderas right against the River where we watered before but this River was brackish now in the dry season and therefore we went 2 or 3 leagues nearer Cape Corrientes and anchored by a small round Island not half a mile from the shore The Island is about 4 leagues to the Northward of the Cape and the Brook where we filled our water is just within the Island upon the Main Here our Strikers struck 9 or 10 jew-Jew-fish some we did eat and the rest we salted and the 29th day we fill'd 32 Tuns of very good water Having thus provided our selves we had nothing more to do but to put in execution our intended expedition to the East Indies in hopes of some better success there than we had met with on this little frequented Coast. We came on it full of expectations for besides the richness of the Country and the probability of finding some Sea Ports worth visiting we perswaded our selves that there must needs be Shipping and Trade here and that Acapulco and La Vera Cruz were to the Kingdom of Mexico what Panama and Portobel are to that of Peru viz. Marts for carrying on a constant Commerce between the South and North Seas as indeed they are But whereas we expected that this Commerce should be managed by Sea we found our selves mistaken that of Mexico being almost wholly a Land-trade and managed more by Mules than by Ships So that instead of profit we met with little on this Coast besides fatigues hardships and losses and so were the more easily induced to try what better fortune we might have in the East Indies But to do right to Captain Swan he had no intention to be as a Privateer in the East Indies but as he hath often assured me with his own mouth he resolved to take the first opportunity of returning to England So that he feigned a compliance with some of his men who were bent upon going to cruize at Manila that he might have leisure to take some favourable opportunity of quitting the Privateer Trade CHAP. X. Their Departure from Cape Corrientes for the Ladrone Islands and the East Indies Their Course thither and Accidents by the way with a Table of each days Run c. Of the different accounts of the breadth of these Seas Guam one of the Ladrone Islands The Coco-nut Tree Fruit c. The Toddi or Arack that distils from it with other uses that are made of it Coire Cables The Lime or Crab Limon The Bread fruit The Native Indians of Guam Their Proe's a remarkable sort of Boats and of those used in the East Indies The State of Guam and the Provisions with which they were furnisht there I Have given an account in the last Chapter of the resolutions we took of going over to the East Indies But having more calmly considered on the length of our Voyage from hence to Guam one of the Ladrone Islands which is the first place that we could touch at and there also being not certain to find Provisions most of our men were almost daunted at the thoughts of it for we had not 60 days Provision at a little more than half a pint of Maiz a day for each man and no other Provision except 3 Meals of salted Jew-fish and we had a great many Rats aboard which we could not hinder from eating part of our Maiz. Beside the great distance between Cape Corrientes and Guam which is variously set down The Spaniards who have the greatest reason to know best make it to be between 2300 and 2400 leagues our Books also reckon it differently between 90 and 100 degrees which all comes short indeed of 2000 leagues but even that was a Voyage enough to frighten us considering our scanty Provisions Captain Swan to encourage his men to go with him perswaded them that the English Books did give the best account of the distance his reasons were many although but weak He urged among the rest that Sir Thomas Candish and Sir Francis Drake did run it in less than 50 days and that he did not question but that our Ships were better sailers than those which were built in that age and that he did not doubt to get there in little more than 40 days This being the best time in the year for breezes which undoubtedly is the reason that the Spaniards set out from Acapulco about this time and that although they are 60 days in their Voyage it is because they are great Ships deep laden and very heavy sailers besides they wanting nothing are in no great haste in their way but sail with a great deal of their usual caution And when they come near the Island Guam they lye by in the night for a week before they make Land In prudence we also should have contriv'd to lye by in the night when we came near Land for otherwise we might have run ashore or have outsailed the Islands and lost sight of them before morning But our bold adventurers seldom proceed with such wariness when in any streights But of all Captain Swan's arguments that which prevailed most with them was his promising them as I have said to cruize off the Manila's So he and his men being now agreed and they incouraged with the hope of gain which works its way thro all difficulties we set out from Cape Corrientes March the 31st 1686. We were 2 Ships in Company Captain Swan s Ship and a Bark commanded under Captain Swan by Captain Teat and we were 150 men 100 aboard of the Ship and 50 aboard the Bark beside slaves as I said We had a small Land-wind at E. N. E. which carried us 3 or 4 leagues then the Sea-wind came at W. N. W. a fresh gale so we steered away S. W. By 6 a clock in the evening we were about 9 leagues S. W. from the Cape then we met a Land-wind which blew fresh all night and the next morning about 10 a clock we had the Sea breez at N. N. E. so that at noon we were 30 leagues from the Cape It blew a fresh gale of Wind which carried us off into the true Trade-wind of the difference of which Trade-winds I shall speak in the Chapter of Winds in the Appendix for although the constant Sea breez near the shore is at W. N. W. yet the true Trade off at Sea when you are clear of the Land-winds is at E. N. E. At first we had it at N. N. E. so it came about Northerly and then to the East as we run off At 250 leagues distance from the shore we had it at E. N. E. and there it stood till we came within 40 leagues of Guam When we had eaten up our 3 meals of salted Jew-fish in so many days time we had nothing but our small allowance of Maiz. After the first day of March we made great runs every day having very fair clear weather and a fresh
familiar if the Custom of the Country did not debar them from that freedom which seems coveted by them Yet from the highest to the lowest they are allowed liberty to converse with or treat Strangers in the sight of their Husbands There is a kind of begging Custom at Mindanao that I have not met elsewhere with in all my Travels and which I believe is owing to the little Trade they have which is thus When Strangers arrive here the Mindanao Men will come aboard and invite them to their Houses and inquire who has a Comrade which word I believe they have from the Spaniards or a Pagally and who has not A Comrade is a familiar Male-friend a Pagally is an innocent Platonick Friend of the other Sex All Strangers are in a manner oblig'd to accept of this Acquaintance and Familiarity which must be first purchased with a small Present and afterwards confirmed with some Gift or other to continue the Acquaintance and as often as the Stranger goes ashore he is welcome to his Comrade or Pagally s House where he may be entertained for his Money to eat drink or sleep and complimented as often as he comes ashore with Tobacco and Betel-nut which is all the Entertainment he must expect gratis The richest Mens Wives are allowed the freedom to converse with her Pagally in publick and may give or receive Presents from him Even the Sultans and the Generals Wives who are always coopt up will yet look out of their Cages when a Stranger passeth by and demand of him if he wants a Pagally and to invite him to their Friendship will send a Present of Tobacco and Betel-nut to him by their Servants The chiefest City on this Island is called by the same Name of Mindanao It is seated on the South side of the Island in lat 7 d. 20 m. N. on the banks of a small River about 2 mile from the Sea The manner of building is somewhat strange yet generally used in this part of the East Indies Their Houses are all built on Posts about 14 16 18 or 20 foot high These Posts are bigger or less according to the intended Magnificence of the Superstructure They have but one floor but many partitions or rooms and a ladder or stairs to go up out of the streets The roof is large and covered with Palmeto or Palm-leaves So there is a clear passage like a Piazza but a filthy one under the House Some of the poorer People that keep Ducks or Hens have a fence made round the posts of their Houses with a door to go in and out and this under-room serves for no other use Some use this place for the common draught of their Houses but building mostly close by the River in all parts of the Indies they make the River receive all the filth of their Houses and at the time of the Land-floods all is washed very clean The Sultans House is much bigger than any of the rest It stands on about 180 great Posts or Trees a great deal higher than the common Building with great broad stairs made to go up In the first room he hath about 20 Iron Guns all Saker and Minion placed on Field-Carriages The General and other great Men have some Guns also in their Houses About 20 paces from the Sultan's House there is a small low House built purposely for the Reception of Ambassadors or Merchant Strangers This also stands on Posts but the floor is not raised above 3 or 4 foot above the ground and is neatly matted purposely for the Sultan and his Council to sit on for they use no Chairs but sit cross-legg'd like Taylors on the floor The common Food at Mindanao is Rice or Sago and a small Fish or two The better sort eat Buffalo or Fowls ill drest and abundance of Rice with it They use no Spoons to eat their Rice but every Man takes a handful out of the Platter and by wetting his Hand in Water that it may not stick to his Hand squeezes it into a lump as hard as possibly he can make it and then crams it into his mouth They all strive to make these lumps as big as their mouths can receive them and seem to vie with each other and glory in taking in the biggest lump so that sometimes they almost choak themselves They always wash after meals or if they touch any thing that is unclean for which reason they spend abundance of Water in their Houses This Water with the washing of their Dishes and whatother filth they make they pour down near their Fire-place for their Chambers are not boarded but floored with split Bamboos like Laths so that the Water presently falls underneath their dwelling rooms where it breeds Maggots and makes a prodigious stink Besides this filthiness the sick people ease themselves and make water in their Chambers there being a small hole made purposely in the floor to let it drop through But healthy sound people commonly ease themselves and make water in the River For that reason you shall always see abundance of people of both Sexes in the River from morning till night some easing themselves others washing their bodies or cloaths If they come into the River purposely to wash their cloaths they strip and stand naked till they have done then put them on and march out again both men and women take great delight in swimming and washing themselves being bred to it from their Infancy I do believe it is very wholsome to wash mornings and evenings in these hot Countries at least 3 or 4 days in the week for I did use my self to it when I lived afterwards at Ben-cooly and found it very refreshing and comfortable It is very good for those that have Fluxes to wash and stand in the River mornings and evenings I speak it experimentally for I was brought very low with that distemper at Achin but by washing constantly mornings and evenings I found great benefit and was quickly cured by it In the City of Mindanao they spake two Languages indifferently their own Mindanao Language and the Malaya but in other parts of the Island they speak only their proper Language having little Commerce abroad They have Schools and instruct the Children to read and write and bring them up in the Mahometan Religion Therefore many of the words especially their Prayers are in Arabick and many of the words of civility the same as in Turkey and especially when they meet in the morning or take leave of each other they express themselves in that Language Many of the old people both Men and Women can speak Spanish for the Spaniards were formerly settled among them and had several Forts on this Island and then they sent two Friers to this City to convert the Sultan of Mindanao and his people At that time these people began to learn Spanish and the Spaniards incroached on them and endeavoured to bring them into subjection and probably before this time had brought them all under
to borrow so much Money pretending urgent occasions for it and they dare not deny him Sometimes he will send to sell one thing or another that he hath to dispose of to such whom he knows to have Money and they must buy it and give him his price and if afterward he hath occasion for the same thing he must have it if he sends for it He is but a little Man between 50 and 60 years old and by relation very good natured but over-ruled by those about him He has a Queen and keeps about 20 Women or Wives more in whose company he spends most of his time He has one Daughter by his Sultaness or Queen and a great many Sons and Daughters by the rest These walk about the streets and would be always begging things of us but it is reported that the young Princess is kept in a room and never stirs out and that she did never see any Man but her Father and Raja Laut her Uncle being then about 14 years old When the Sultan visits his Friends he is carried in a small Couch on 4 Mens shoulders with 8 or 10 armed Men to guard him but he never goes far this way for the Country is very woody and they have but little paths which renders it the less commodious When he takes his pleasure by Water he carries some of his Wives along with him The Proes that are built for this purpose are large enough to entertain 50 or 60 persons or more The Hull is neatly built with a round head and stern and over the Hull there is a small slight house built with Bamboes the sides are made up with split Bamboes about 4 foot high with little Windows in them of the same to open and shut at their pleasure The roof is almost slat neatly that ched with Palmeto leaves This house is divided into 2 or 3 small Partitions or Chambers one particularly for himself This is neatly matted underneath and round the sides and there is a Carpit and Pillows for him to sleep on The second Room is for his Women much like the former The third is for the Servants who tend them with Tobacco and Betel-nut for they are always chewing or smoaking The fore and after parts of the Vessel are for the Mariners to sit and row Besides this they have Outlayers such as those I described at Guam only the Boats and Outlayers here are larger These Boats are more round like the Half-Moon almost and the Bamboes or Outlayers that reach from the Boat are also crooked Besides the Boat is not flat on one side here as at Guam but hath a Belly and Outlayers on each side and whereas at Guam there is a little Boat fasten'd to the Outlayers that lies in the Water the Beams or Bamboes here are fastned traverse-wise to the Outlayers on each side and touch not the Water like Boats but 1 3 or 4 foot above the Water and serve for the Barge-men to sit and row and paddle on the inside of the Vessel except only just afore and abaft being taken up with the apartments for the Passengers There run across the Outlayers two tire of Beams for the Paddlers to sit on on each side the Vessel The lower tire of these Beams is not above a foot from the water so that upon any the least reeling of the Vessel the Beams are dipt in the water and the men that sit are wet up to their waste their feet seldom escaping the water And thus as all our Vessels are Rowed from within these are Paddled from without The Sultan hath a Brother called Raja Laut a brave man He is the second man in the Kingdom All strangers that come hither to trade must make their address to him for all Sea affairs belong to him He licenceth strangers to import or export any Commodity and 't is by his permission that the Natives themselves are suffered to trade Nay the very Fishermen must take a permit from him so that there is no man can come into the River or go out but by his leave He is 2 or 3 years younger than the Sultan and a little man like him He has 8 Women by some of whom he hath Issue He hath only one Son about 12 or 14 years old who was Circumcised while we were there His eldest Son died a little before we came hither for whom he was still in great heaviness If he had lived a little longer he should have married the young Princess but whether this second Son must have her I know not for I did never hear any discourse about it Raja Laut is a very sharp man he speaks and writes Spanish which he learned in his youth He has by often conversing with Strangers got a great insight into the Customs of other Nations and by Spanish Books has some knowledge of Europe He is General of the Mindanaians and is accounted an expert Soldier and a very stout man and the Women in their dances sings many Songs in his praise The Sultan of Mindanao sometimes makes War with his Neighbours the Mountaneers or Alfoors Their Weapons are Swords Lances and some hand Cressets The Cresset is a small thing like a Baggonet which they always wear in War or Peace at work or play from the greatest of them to the poorest and meanest persons They do never meet each other so as to have a pitcht Battle but they build small Works or Forts of Timber wherein they plant little Guns and lye in sight of each other 2 or 3 months skirmishing every day in small Parties and sometimes surprizing a Brest-work and whatever side is like to be worsted if they have no probability to escape by flight they sell their lives as dear as they can for there is seldom any quarter given but the Conquerour cuts and hacks his Enemies to pieces The Religion of these people is Mahometanism Friday is their Sabbath but I did never see any difference that they make between this day and any other day only the Sultan himself goes then to his Mosque twice Raja Laut never goes to the Mosque but prays at certain hours 8 or 10 times in a day where-ever he is he is very punctual to his Canonical hours and if he be aboard will go ashore on purpose to pray For no business nor company hinders him from this Duty Whether he is at home or abroad in a house or in the field he leaves all his Company and goes about 100 yards off and there kneels down to his Devotion He first kisses the ground then prays aloud and divers times in his Prayers he kisses the ground and does the same when he leaves off His Servants and his Wives and Children talk and sing or play how they please all the time but himself is very serious The meaner sort of people have little Devotion I did never see any of them at their Prayers or go into a Mosque In the Sultans Mosque there is a great Drum with but one
formerly learnt to dance in the Musick-houses about Wapping This man came into the South Seas with Captain Harris and getting with him a good quantity of Gold and being a pretty good husband of his share had still some left besides what he laid out in a very good suit of Clothes The General supposed by his garb and his dancing that he had been of noble extraction and to be satisfy'd of his Quality asked of one of our men if he did not guess aright of him The man of whom the General asked this question told him he was much in the right and that most of our Ships company were of the like extraction especially all those that had fine Clothes and that they came abroad only to see the World having Money enough to bear their expences where-ever they came but that for the rest those that had but mean Clothes they were only common Sea-men After this the General shew'd a great deal of respect to all that had good Clothes but especially to John Thacker till Captain Swan came to know the business and marr'd all undeceiving the General and drubbing the Noble-man for he was so much incensed against John Thacker that he could never endure him afterwards tho the poor fellow knew nothing of the matter About the middle of November we began to work on our Ships bottom which we found very much eaten with the Worm for this is a horrid place for Worms We did not know this till after we had been in the River a month and then we found our Canoas bottoms eaten like Honey-combs our Bark which was a single bottom was eaten thro so that she could not swim But our Ship was sheathed and the Worm came no farther than the Hair between the sheathing Plank and the main Plank We did not mistrust the Generals Knavery till now for when he came down to our Ship and found us ripping off the sheathing Plank and saw the firm bottom underneath he shook his Head and seemed to be discontented saying he did never see a Ship with 2 bottoms before We were told that in this place where we now lay a Dutch Ship was eaten up in 2 months time and the General had all her Guns and it is probable he did expect to have had ours which I do believe was the main reason that made him so forward in assisting us to get our Ship into the River for when we went out again we had no assistance from him We had no Worms till we came to this place for when we careen'd at the Marias the Worm had not touch'd us not at Guam for there we scrubb'd nor after we came to the Island Mindanao for at the S. E. end of the Island we heel'd and scrubb'd also The Mindanaians are so sensible of these destructive Insects that whenever they come from Sea they immediately hale their Ships into a dry Dock and burn her bottom and there let her lye dry till they are ready to go to Sea again The Canoas or Proes they hale up dry and never suffer them to be long in the water It is reported that those Worms which get into a Ships bottom in the salt water will dye in the fresh water and that the fresh water Worms will dye in salt water but in brackish water both sorts will increase prodigiously Now this place where we lay was sometimes brackish water yet commonly fresh but what sort of Worm this was I know not Some men are of opinion that these Worms breed in the Plank but I am perswaded they breed in the Sea for I have seen millions of them swimming in the water particularly in the Bay of Panama for there Captain Davis Captain Swan and my self and most of our men did take notice of them divers times which was the reason of our Cleaning so often while we were there and these were the largest Worms that I did ever see I have also seen them in Virginia and in the Bay of Campeachy in the latter of which places the Worm eats prodigiously They are always in Bays Creeks mouths of Rivers and such places as are near the shore being never found far out at Sea that I could ever learn yet a Ship will bring them lodg'd in its Plank for a great way Having thus ript off all our Worm-eaten Plank and clapt on new by the beginning of December 1686 our Ships bottom was sheathed and tallowed and the 10th day we went over the Bar and took aboard the Iron and Lead that we could not sell and began to fill our Water and fetch aboard Rice for our Voyage But C. Swan remain d ashore still and was not yet determin'd when to sail or whither But I am well assured that he did never intend to cruize about Manila as his Crew design'd for I did once ask him and he told me that what he had already done of that kind he was forc'd to but now being at liberty he would never more engage in any such design For said he there is no Prince on Earth is able to wipe off the stain of such actions What other designs he had I know not for he was commonly very cross yet he did never propose doing any thing else but only ordered the Provision to be got aboard in order to sail and I am confident if he had made a motion to go to any English Factory most of his men would have consented to it tho probably some would have still opposed it However his authority might soon have over-swayed those that were refractory for it was very strange to see the awe that these men were in of him for he punished the most stubborn and daring of his men Yet when we had brought the Ship out into the Road they were not altogether so submissive as while it lay in the River though even then it was that he punished Captain Teat I was at that time a hunting with the General for Beef which he had a long time promised us But now I saw that there was no credit to he given to his word for I was a week out with him and saw but four Cows which were so wild that we did not get one There were five or six more of our Company with me these who were young men and had Dalilahs there which made them fond of the place all agreed with the General to tell Captain Swan that there were Beeves enough only they were wild But I told him the truth and advised him not to be too credulous of the Generals promises He seemed to be very angry and stormed behind the Generals back but in his presence was very mute being a man of small courage It was about the 20th day of December when we returned from hunting and the General designed to go again to another place to hunt for Beef but he stayed till after Christmas-day because some of us designed to go with him and Captain Swan had desired all his men to be aboard that day that
with small Brooks of fresh Water that run flush into the Sea for 10 months in the year The latter end of March they begin to dry away and in April you shall have none in the Brooks but what is lodged in deep holes but you may dig Wells in some places In May when the Rain comes the Land is again replenished with water and the Brooks run out into the Sea These Islands lye very commodiously in the way to and from Japan China Manila Tunquin Cochinchina and in general all this most Easterly Coast of the Indian Continent whether you go through the Streights of Malacca or the Streights of Sunda between Sumatra and Java and one of them you must pass in the common way from Europe or other parts of the East Indies unless you mean to fetch a great compass round most of the East India Islands as we did Any Ship in distress may be refreshed and recruited here very conveniently and besides ordinary accommodations be furnished with Masts Yards Pitch and Tar. It might also be a convenient place to usher in a Commerce with the Neighbouring Country of Cochinchina and Forts might be built to secure a Factory particularly at the Harbour which is capable of being well fortified This place therefore being upon all these Accounts so valuable and withal so little known I have here inserted a draft of it which I took during our stay there The Inhabitants of this Island are by Nation Cochinchinese as they told us for one of them spake good Malayan which Language we learnt a smattering of and some of us so as to speak it pretty well while we lay at Mindanao and this is the common Tongue of Trade and Commerce though it be not in several of them the Native Language in most of the East India Islands being the Lingua Franca as it were of these parts I believe 't is the vulgar Tongue at Malacca Sumatra Java and Borneo but at Celebes the Philippine Islands and the Spice Islands it seems borrowed for the carrying of Trade The Inhabitants of Pulo Condore are but a small people in stature well enough shaped and of a darker colour than the Mindanayans They are pretty long visaged their Hair is black and streight their Eyes are but small and black their Noses of a mean bigness and pretty high their Lips thin their Teeth white and little Mouths They are very civil people but extraordinary poor Their chiefest imployment is to draw the juice of those Trees that I have described to make Tar. They preserve it in wooden Troughs and when they have their Cargo they transport it to Cochinchina their Mother Country Some others of them imploy themselves to catch Turtle and boil up their Fat to Oyl which they also transport home These people have great large Nets with wide mashes to catch the Turtle The Jamaica Turtlers have such and I did never see the like Nets but at Jamaica and here They are so free of their Women that they would bring them aboard and offer them to us and many of our men hired them for a small matter This is a custom used by several Nations in the East Indies as at Pegu Siam Cochinchina and Cambodia as I have been told It is used at Tunquin also to my knowledge for I did afterward make a Voyage thither and most of our Men had Women aboard all the time of our abode there In Africa also on the Coast of Guinea our Merchants Factors and Seamen that reside there have their black Misses It is accounted a piece of policy to do it for the chief Factors and Captains of Ships have the great Mens Daughters offered them the Mandarins or Noblemens at Tunquin and even the Kings Wives in Guinea and by this sort of Alliance the Country people are ingaged to a greater friendship And if there should arise any difference about Trade or any thing else which might provoke the Natives to seek some treacherous revenge to which all these Heathen Nations are very prone then these Dalilahs would certainly declare it to their white friends and so hinder their Country-mens designs These People are Idolaters but their manner of Worship I know not There are a few scattering Houses and Plantations on the great Island and a small Village on the South side of it where there is a little Idol Temple and an Image of an Elephant about 5 foot high and in bigness proportionable placed on one side of the Temple and a Horse not so big placed on the other side of it both standing with their Heads towards the South The Temple it self was low and ordinary built of Wood and thatched like one of their Houses which are but very meanly The Images of the Horse and the Elephant were the most general Idols that I observ'd in the Temples of Tunquin when I travell'd there There were other Images also of Beasts Birds and Fish I do not remember I saw any humane shape there nor any such monstrous Representations as I have seen among the Chinese Where-ever the Chinese Seamen or Merchants come and they are very numerous all over these Seas they have always hideous Idols on board their Jonks or Ships with Altars and Images burning before them These Idols they bring ashore with them and beside those they have in common every Man hath one in his own House Upon some particular solemn days I have seen their Bonzies or Priests bring whole armfuls of painted Papers and burn them with a great deal of Ceremony being very careful to let no piece escape them The same day they kill'd a Goat which had been purposely fatting a month before this they offer or present before their Idol and then dress it and feast themselves with it I have seen them do this in Tunquin where I have at the same time been invited to their Feasts and at Bancouli in the Isle of Sumatra they sent a Shoulder of the Sacrific'd Goat to the English who eat of it and ask'd me to do so too but I refused When I was at Maderas or Fort St. George I took notice of a great Ceremony used for several nights successively by the Idolaters inhabiting the Suburbs Both men and women these very well clad in a great multitude went in solemn Procession with lighted Torches carrying their Idols about with them I knew not the meaning of it I observ'd some went purposely carrying Oyl to sprinkle into the Lamps to make them burn the brighter They began their round about 11 a clock at night and having paced it gravely about the streets till 2 or 3 a clock in the morning their Idols were carry'd with much Ceremony into the Temple by the chief of the Procession and some of the Women I saw enter the Temple particularly Their Idols were different from those of Tunquin Cambodia c. being in humane Shape I have said already that we arrived at these Islands the 14th day of March 1687. The next day we searched about
for a place to careen in and the 16th day we entered the Harbour and immediately provided to careen Some Men were set to fell great Trees to saw into Plank others went to unrigging the Ship some made a House to put our Goods in and for the Sailmaker to work in The Country People resorted to us and brought us of the fruits of the Island with Hogs and sometimes Turtle for which they received Rice in exchange which we had a Ship load of taken at Manila We bought of them also a good quantity of their pitchy Liquor which we boyled and used about our Ships bottom We mixed it first with Lime which we made here and it made an excellent coat and stuck on very well We staid in this Harbour from the 16th day of March tiil the 16th day of April in which time we made a new Suit of Sails of the Cloath that was taken in the Prize We cut a spare Main-top-mast and sawed Plank to sheath the Ships bottom for she was not sheathed all over at Mindanao and that old Plank that was left on then we now ript off and clapt on new While we lay here 2 of our men dyed who were poysoned at Mindanao they told us of it when they found themselves poyson'd and had lingred ever since They were open d by our Doctor according to their own request before they dyed and their Livers were black light and dry like pieces of Cork Our business being finished here we left the Spanish Prize taken at Manila and most of the Rice taking out enough for our selves and on the 17th day we went from hence to the place where we first Anchored on the North side of the great Island purposely to water for there was a great stream when we first came to the Island and we thought it was so now But we found it dryed up only it stood in holes 2 or 3 Hogsheads or a Tun in a hole Therefore we did immediately cut Bamboos and made Spouts through which we conveyed the Water down to the Sea-side by taking it up in Bowls and pouring it into these Spouts or Troughs We conveyed some of it thus near half a mile While we were filling our Water Captain Read engaged an old man one of the Inhabitants of this Island the same who I said could speak the Malayan Language to be his Pilot to the Bay of Siam for he had often been telling us that he was well acquainted there and that he knew some Islands there where there were Fishermen lived who he thought could supply us with Salt-fish to eat at Sea for we had nothing but Rice to eat The Easterly Monsoon was not yet done therefore it was concluded to spend some time there and then take the advantage of the beginning of the Western Monsoon to return to Manila again The 21st day of April 1687 we sailed from Pulo Condore directing our course W. by S. for the Bay of Siam We had fair weather and a fine moderate gale of Wind at E. N. E. The 23d day we arrived at Pulo Uby or the Island Uby This Island is about 40 leagues to the Westward of Pulo Condore it lies just at the entrance of the Bay of Siam at the S. W. point of Land that makes the Bay namely the point of Cambodia This Island is about 7 or 8 leagues round and it is higher Land than any of Pulo Condore Isles Against the South East part of it there is a small Key about a Cables length from the main Island This Pulo Uby is very woody and it has good Water on the North side where you may anchor but the best anchoring is on the East side against a small Bay then you will have the little Island to the Southward of you At Pulo Uby we found two small Barks laden with Rice They belonged to Cambodia from whence they came not above two or three days before and they touched here to fill Water Rice is the general food of all these Countries therefore it is transported by Sea from one Country to another as Corn is in these parts of the World For in some Countries they produce more than enough for themseves and send what they can spare to those places where there is but little The 24th day we went into the Bay of Slam This is a large deep Bay of which and of this Kingdom I shall at present speak but little because I design a more particular account of all this Coast to wit of Tunquin Cochinchina Siam Champa Cambodia and Malacca making all the most Easterly part of the Continent of Asia lying South of China but to do it in the course of this Voyage would too much swell this Volume and I shall chuse therefore to give a separate relation of what I know or have learnt of them together with the Neighbouring parts of Sumatra Java c. where I have spent some time We run down into the Bay of Siam till we came to the Islands that our Pulo Condore Pilot told us of which lye about the middle of the Bay but as good a Pilot as he was he run us aground yet we had no damage Captain Read went ashore at these Islands where he found a small Town of Fishermen but they had no Fish to sell and so we returned empty We had yet fair weather and very little wind so that being often becalmed we were till the 13th day of May before we got to Pulo Uby again There we found two small Vessels at an anchor on the East side They were laden with Rice and Laquer which is used in Japaning of Cabinets One of these come from Champa bound to the Town of Malacca which belongs to the Dutch who took it from the Portuguese and this shews that they have a Trade with Champa This was a very pretty neat Vessel her bottom very clean and curiously coated she had about 40 men all armed with Cortans or broad Swords Lances and some Guns that went with a swivel upon their Gunnals They were of the Idolaters Natives of Champa and some of the briskest most sociable without fearfulness or shyness and the most neat and dexterous about their Shipping of any such I have met with in all my Travels The other Vessel came from the River of Cambodia and was bound towards the Streights of Malacca Both of them stopt here for the Westerly winds now began to blow which were against them being somewhat belated We anchored also on the East side intending to fill Water While we lay here we had very violent Winds at S. W. and a strong current setting right to Windward The fiercer the Wind blew the more strong the current set against it This storm lasted till the 20th day and then it began to abate The 21st day of May we went back from hence towards Pulo Condore In our way we overtook a great Jonk that came from Palimbam a Town on the Island Sumatra She was full laden with Pepper
Besides this present from the Governour there was a Captain of a Jonk sent two Jars of Arack and abundance of Pine-apples and Water-melons Captain Read sent ashore as a Present to the Governour a curious Spanish Silver-hilted Rapier an English Carbine and a Gold Chain and when the Officer went ashore three Guns were fired In the afternoon the Governour sent off the same Officer again to complement the Captain for his civility and promised to retaliate his kindness before we departed but we had such blustring weather afterward that no Boat could come aboard We stayed here till the 29th day and then sailed from hence with the wind at S. W. and pretty fair weather We now directed our course for some Islands we had chosen to go to that lye between Formosa and Luconia They are laid down in our plots without any name only with a figure of 5 denoting the number of them It was supposed by us that these Islands had no Inhabitants because they had not any name by our Hydographers Therefore we thought to lye there secure and be pretty near the Island Luconia which we did still intend to visit In going to them we sailed by the South West end of Formosa leaving it on our larboard side This is a large Island the South end is in lat 21 d. 20 m. and the North end in 25 d. 10 m. North lat the longitude of this Isle is laid down from 142 d. 5 m. to 143 d. 16 m. reckoning East from the pike of Tenariffe so that 't is but narrow and the Tropick of Cancer crosses it It is a high and woody Island and was formerly well inhabited by the Chinese and was then frequently visited by English Merchants there being a very good Harbour to secure their Ships But since the Tartars have conquered China they have spoiled the Harbour as I have been informed to hinder the Chinese that were then in Rebellion from fortifying themselves there and ordered the foreign Merchants to come and trade on the Main The 6th day of August we arrived at the five Islands that we were bound to and anchored on the East side of the Northermost Island in 15 fathom a Cables length from the shore Here contrary to our expectation we found abundance of Inhabitants in sight for there were 3 large Towns all within a league of the Sea and another larger Town than any of the three on the back side of a small hill close by also as we found afterwards These Islands lye in lat 20 d. 20 m. North lat by my observation for I took it there and I find their Longitude according to our Drafts to be 141 d. 50 m. These Islands having no particular Names in the Drafts some or other of us made use of the Seamens priviledge to give them what names we pleased Three of the Islands were pretty large the Westermost is the biggest This the Dutch men who were among us called the Prince of Orange's Island in honour of his present Majesty It is about 7 or 8 leagues long and about 2 leagues wide and it lies almost N. and S. The other two great Islands are about 4 or 5 leagues to the Eastward of this The Northermost of them where we first anchored I called the D. of Grafton's Isle as soon as we landed on it having married my Wife out of his Dutchess's Family and leaving her at Arlington house at my going aboard This Isle is about 4 leagues long and one league and a half wide stretching North and South The other great Isle our Seamen called the Duke of Monmouth's Island This is about a league to the Southward of Grafton Isle It is about 3 leagues long and a league wide lying as the other Between Monmouth and the South end of Orange Island there are two small Islands of a roundish form lying East and West The Eastermost Island of the two our men unanimously called Bashee Island from a Liquor which we drank there plentifully every day after we came to an anchor at it The other which is the smallest of all we called Goat Island from the great number of Goats there and to the Northward of them all are two high Rocks Orange Island which is the biggest of them all is not inhabited It is high Land flat and even on the top with steep cliffs against the Sea for which reason we could not go ashore there as we did on all the rest I have made it my general observation that where the Land is fenced with steep Rocks and Cliffs against the Sea there the Sea is very deep and seldom affords anchor ground and on the other side where the Land falls away with a declivity into the Sea altho the Land be exrraordinary high within yet there are commonly good soundings and consequently anchoring and as the visible declivity of the Land appears near or at the edge of the Water whether pretty steep or more sloping so we commonly find our anchor ground to be more or less deep or steep therefore we came nearer the shore or anchor farther off as we see convenient for there is no Coast in the World that I know or have heard of where the Land is of a continual heighth without some small Valleys or declivities which lye intermixt with the high Land They are these subsidings of Valleys or low Lands that make dents in the shore and Creeks small Bays and Harbours or little Coves c. which afford good anchoring the surface of the Earth being there lodged deep under Water Thus we find many good Harbours on such Coasts where the Land bounds the Sea with steep Clifs by reason of the Declivities or subsiding of the Land between these Cliffs But where the Declension from the Hills or Cliffs is not within Land between Hill and Hill but as on the Coast of Chili and Peru the Declivity is toward the Main Sea or into it the Coast being perpendicular or very steep from the neighbouring Hills as in those Countries from the Andes that run along the shore there is a deep Sea and few or no Harbours or Creeks All that Coast is too steep for anchoring and hath the fewest Roads fit for Ships of any Coast I know The Coasts of Gallicia Portugal Norway and Newfoundland c. are Coasts like the Peruvian and the high Islands of the Archipelago but yet not so scanty of good Harbours for where there are short Ridges of Land there are good Bays at the extremities of those Ridges where they plunge into the Sea as on the Coast of Caraccos c. The Island of John Fernando and the Island St. Helena c. are such high Land with deep shore and in general the plunging of any Land under Water seems to be in proportion to the rising of its continuous part above Water more or less steep and it must be a bottom almost level or very gently declining that affords good anchoring Ships being soon driven from their Moorings on
over-board some into their Boats others into the Sea and they all made away for the shore But when we perceived their fright we made much of him that was in hold who stood trembling all the while and at last we gave him a small piece of Iron with which he immediately leapt overboard and swam to his Consorts who hovered about our Ship to see the issue Then we beckned to them to come aboard again being very loth to lose a commerce with them Some of the Boats came aboard again and they were always very honest and civil afterwards We presently after this sent a Canoa ashore to see their manner of living and what Provision they had The Canoas Crew were made very welcom with Bashee drink and saw abundance of Hogs some of which they bought and returned aboard After this the Natives brought aboard both Hogs and Goats to us in their own Boats and every day we should have 15 or 20 Hogs and Goats in Boats aboard by our side These we bought for a small matter we could buy a good fat Goat for an old Iron Hoop and a Hog of 70 or 80 pound weight for 2 or 3 pound of Iron Their Drink also they brought off in Jars which we bought for old Nails Spikes and Leaden Bullets Beside the forementioned Commodities they brought aboard great quantities of Yams and Potatoes which we purchased for Nails Spikes or Bullets It was one Man's work to be all day cutting out Bars of Iron into small pieces with a cold Chisel and these were for the great purchases of Hogs and Goats which they would not sell for Nails as their Drink and Roots We never let them know what store we have that they may value it the more Every morning assoon as it was light they would thus come aboard with their Commodities which we bought as we had occasion We did commonly furnish our selves with as many Goats and Roots as served us all the day and their Hogs we bought in large quantities as we thought convenient for we salted them Their Hogs were very sweet but I never saw so many meazled ones We filled all our Water at a curious Brook close by us in Graftons Isle where we first anchored We stayed there about 3 or 4 days before we went to other Islands We sailed to the Southward passing on the East side of Grafton Island and then passed thro between that and Monmouth Island but we found no anchoring till we came to the North end of Monmouth Island and there we stopt during one Tide The Tide runs very strong here and sometimes makes a short chopping Sea Its course amongst these Islands is S. by E. and N. by W. The flood sets to the North and ebb to to the South and it riseth and falleth 8 foot When we went from hence we coasted about 2 leagues to the Southward on the West side of Monmouth Island and finding no anchor ground we stood over to Bashee Island and came to an anchor on the North East part of it against a small sandy Bay in 7 fathom clean hard sand and about a quarter of a mile from the shore Here is a pretty wide Channel between these two Islands and anchoring all over it The depth of Water is 12 14 and 16 fathom We presently built a Tent ashore to mend our Sails in and stay'd all the rest of our time here viz. from the 13th day of August till the 26 day of September In which time we mended our Sails and scrubbed our Ships bottom very well and every day some of us went to their Towns and were kindly entertained by them Their Boats also came aboard with their Merchandise to sell and lay aboard all day and if we did not take it off their hands one day they would bring the same again the next We had yet the Winds at S. W. and S. S. W. mostly fair weather In October we did expect the Winds to shift to the N. E. and therefore we provided to sail as soon as the Eastern Monsoon was settled to cruise off of Manila Accordingly we provided a stock of Provision We salted 70 or 80 good fat Hogs and bought Yams and Potatoes good store to eat at Sea About the 24th day of September the Winds shifted about to the East and from thence to the N. E. fine fair weather The 25th it came at N. and began to grow fresh and the Sky began to be clouded and the Wind freshned on us At 12 a clock at night it blew a very fierce storm We were then riding with our best Bower a head and though our Yards and Top-mast were down yet we drove This obliged us to let go our Sheet Anchor veering out a good scope of Cable which stopt us till 10 or 11 a clock the next day Then the Wind came on so fierce that she drove again with both Anchors a head The Wind was now at N. by W. and we kept driving till 3 or 4 a clock in the afternoon and it was well for us that there were no Islands Rocks or Sands in our way for if there had we must have been driven upon them We used our utmost endeavours to stop her being loath to go to Sea because we had 6 of our Men ashore who could not get off now At last we were driven out into deep Water and then it was in vain to wait any longer Therefore we hove in our Sheet Cable and got up our Sheet Anchor and cut away our best Bower for to have heav'd her up then would have gone near to have foundred us and so put to Sea We had very violent weather the night ensuing with very hard Rain and we were forced to scud with our bare poles till 3 a clock in the morning Then the Wind slacken'd and we brought our Ship to under a mizen and lay with our head to the Westward The 27th day the Wind abated much but it rained very hard all day and the night ensuing The 28th day the Wind came about to the N. E. and it cleered up and blew a hard gale but it stood not there for it shifted about the Eastward thence to the S. E. then to the South and at last it settled at S. W. and then we had a moderate gale and fair weather It was the 29th day when the Wind came to the S. W. Then we made all the sail we could for the Island again The 30th day we had the Wind at West and saw the Islands but could not get in before night Therefore we stood off to the Southward till 2 a clock in the morning then we tackt and stood in all the morning and about 12 a clock the 1st day of October we anchored again at the place from whence we were driven Then our 6 men were brought aboard by the Natives to whom we gave 3 whole bars of Iron for their kindness and civility which was an extraordinary Present to them Mr. Robert Hall was one of the
us at last the Captain ordered the Drum to be beaten which was done of a sudden with much vigor purposely to scare the poor Creatures They hearing the noise ran away as fast as they could drive and when they ran away in haste they would cry Gurry Gurry speaking deep in the Throat Those Inhabitants also that live on the Main would always run away from us yet we took several of them For as I have already observed they had such bad Eyes that they could not see us till we came close to them We did always give them victuals and let them go again but the Islanders after our first time of being among them did not stir for us When we had been here about a week we hal'd our Ship into a small sandy Cove at a Spring-tide as far as she would sloat and at low Water she was left dry and the sand dry without us near half a mile for the Sea riseth and falleth here about 5 fathom The Flood runs North by East and the Ebb South by West All the Neep-tides we lay wholly a ground for the Sea did not come near us by about a hundred yards We had therefore time enough to clean our Ships bottom which we did very well Most of our Men lay ashore in a Tent where our Sails were mending and our Strikers brought home Turtle and Manatee every day which was our constant food While we lay here I did endeavour to perswade our men to go to some English Factory but was threatened to be turned ashore and left here for it This made me desist and patiently wait for some more convenient place and opportunity to leave them than here Which I did hope I should accomplish in a short time because they did intend when they went from hence to bear down towards Cape Comorin In their way thither they design'd also to visit the Island Cocos which lyeth in Lat. 12 d. 12 m. North by our Drafts hoping there to find of that Fruit the Island having it name from thence CHAP. XVII Leaving New-Holland they pass by the Island Cocos and touch at another Woody Island near it A Land Animal like large Craw-fish Coco-Nuts floating in the Sea The Island Triste bearing Coco's yet over-flown every Spring-tide They anchor at a small Island near that of Nassaw Hog Island and others A Proe taken belonging to Achin Nicobar Island and the rest called by that Name Ambergrease good and bad The manners of the Inhabitants of these Islands They anchor at Nicobar Isle It s Situation Soil and pleasant Mixture of its Bays Trees c. The Melory tree and Fruit used for bread The Natives of Nicobar Island their Form Habit Language Habitations no form of Religion or Government Their Food and Canoas They clean the Ship The Author projects and gets leave to stay ashore here and with him two Englishmen more the Portuguese and 4 Malayans of Achin Their first Rencounters with the Natives Of the common Traditions concerning Cannibals or Man-Eaters Their Entertainment ashore They buy a Canoa to transport them over to Achin but overset her at first going cut Having recruited and improved her they set out again for the East side of the Island They have a War with the Islanders but Peace being re-established they lay in stores and make Preparations for their Voyage MArch the 12th 1688. we sailed from New Holland with the Wind at N. N. W. and fair weather We directed our course to the Northward intending as I said to touch at the Island Cocos but we met with the Winds at N. W. W. N. W. and N N. W. for several days which obliged us to keep a more Easterly course than was convenient to find that Island We had soon after our setting out very bad weather with much Thunder and Lightning Rain and high blustring Winds It was the 26th day of March before we were in the lat of the Island Cocos which is in 12 d. 12 m. and then by judgment we were 40 or 50 leagues to the East of it and the Wind was now at S. W. Therefore we did rather chuse to bear away towards some Islands on the West side of Sumatra than to beat against the Wind for the Island Cocos I was very glad of this being in hopes to make my escape from them to Sumatra or some other place We met nothing of remark in this Voyage beside the catching two great Sharks till the 28th day Then we fell in with a small woody Island in Lat. 10 d. 30 m. Its Longitude from New Holland from whence we came was by my account 12 d. 6 m. West It was deep water about the Island and therefore no anchoring but we sent 2 Canoas ashore one of them with the Carpenters to cut a Tree to make another Pump the other Canoa went to search for fresh water and found a fine small Brook near the S. W. point of the Island but there the Sea fell in on the ashore so high that they could not get it off At noon both our Canoas returned aboard and the Carpenters brought aboard a good Tree which they afterwards made a Pump with such a one as they made at Mindanao The other Canoa brought aboard as many Boobies and Men of War Birds as sufficed all the Ships Company when they were boiled They got also a sort of Land Animal somewhat resembling a large Craw-fish without its great Claws These creatures lived in holes in the dry sandy ground like Rabbits Sir Francis Drake in his Voyage round the world makes mention of such that he found at Ternate or some other of the Spice Islands or near them They were very good sweet Meat and so large that 2 of them were more than a Man could eat being almost as thick as ones Leg. Their Shells were of a dark brown but red when boiled This Island is of a good heighth with steep Cliffs against the S. and S. W. and a sandy Bay on the North side but very deep water steep to the shore The Mold is blackish the Soil fat producing large Trees of divers sorts About one a clock in the Afternoon we made sail from this Island with the wind at S. W. and we steered N. W. Afterwards the winds came about at N. W. and continued between the W. N. W. and the N. N. W. several days I observed that the winds blew for the most part out of the West or N. W. and then we had always rainy weather with Tornadoes and much Thunder and Lightning but when the wind came any way to the Southward it blew but faint and brought fair weather We met nothing of remark till the 7th day of April and then being in Lat. 7 d. S. we saw thâ—… Land of Sumatra at a great distance bearing North. The 8th day we saw the East end of the Island Sumatra very plainly we being then in Lat. 6 d. S. The 10th day being in Lat. 5 d. 11 m. and about 7
received this information by a Letter from the Frier that Captain Weldon brought away from thence But to proceed The 5th day of May we ran down on the West side of the Island Nicobar properly so called and anchored at the N. W. end of it in a small Bay in 8 fathom water not half a mile from the shore The body of this Island is in 7 d. 30 m. North Lat. it is about 12 leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The South end of it is pretty high with steep Cliffs against the Sea the rest of the Island is low flat and even The mold of it is black and deep and it is very well watered with small running streams It produceth abundance of tall Trees fit for any uses for the whole bulk of it seems to be but one entire Grove But that which adds most to its beauty off at Sea are the many spots of Coco-nut Trees which grow round it in every small Bay The Bays are half a mile or a mile long more or less and these Bays are intercepted or divided from each other with as many little rocky points of VVoodland As the Coco-nut Trees do thus grow in Groves fronting to the Sea in the Bays so there is another sort of Fruit Tree in the Bays bordering on the backside of the Coco Trees farther from the Sea It is called by the Natives a Melory Tree This Tree is as big as our large Apple Trees and as high It hath a blackish rind and a pretty broad leaf The Fruit is as big as the Bread-fruit at Guam described in Chapter X. or a large Penny Loaf It is shaped like a Pear and hath a pretty tough smooth rind of a light green colour The inside of the Fruit is in substance much like an Apple but full of small strings as big as a brown thread I did never see of these Trees any where but here The Natives of this Island are tall well-limb'd Men pretty long visaged with black Eyes their Noses middle proportioned and the whole Symmetry of their Faces agreeing very well Their Hair is black and lank and their Skins of a dark copper colour The Women have no Hair on their Eye-brows I do believe it is pluckt up by the roots for the Men had Hair growing on their Eye-brows as other People The Men go all naked save only a long narrow piece of cloath or Sash which going round their Wastes and thence down between their Thighs is brought up behind and tuckt in at that part which goes about the Waste The Women have a kind of a short Petticoat reaching from their Waste to their Knees Their Language was different from any that I had ever heard before yet they had some few Malayan words and some of them had a word or two of Portuguese which probably they might learn aboard of their Ships passing by this place for when these Men see a Sail they do presently go aboard of them in their Canoas I did not perceive any Form of Religion that they had they had neither Temple nor Idol nor any manner of outward veneration to any Deity that I did see They inhabit all round the Island by the Sea side in the Bays there being 4 or 5 Houses more or less in each Bay Their Houses are built on Posts as the Mindanaians are They are small low and of a square form There is but one Room in each House and this Room is about 8 foot from the ground and from thence the roof is raised about 8 foot higher But instead of a sharp ridge the top is exceeding neatly arched with small Rafters about the bigness of a Mans Arm bent round like a Half-Moon and very curiously thatched with Palmeto-leaves They live under no Government that I could perceive for they seem to be equal without any distinction every Man ruling in his own House Their Plantations are only those Coco-nut Trees which grow by the Sea side there being no cleared Land farther in on the Island for I observ'd that when past the Fruit Trees there were no paths to be seen going into the Woods The greatest use which they make of their Coco-Trees is to draw Toddy from them of which they are very fond The Melory Trees seem to grow wild they have great Earthen Pots to boil the Melory Fruit in which will hold 12 or 14 Gallons These Pots they fill with the Fruit and putting in a little water they cover the mouth of the Pot with leaves to keep in the steam while it boils When the Fruit is soft they peel off the rind and scrape the pulp from the strings with a flat stick made like a Knife and then make it up in great lumps as big as a Holland Cheese and then it will keep 6 or 7 days It looks yellow and tastes well and is their chiefest food for they have no Yams Potatoes Rice nor Plantains except a very few yet they have a few small Hogs and a very few Cocks and Hens like ours The Men imploy themselves in Fishing but I did not see much Fish that they got every House hath at least 2 or 3 Canoas belonging to it which they draw up ashore The Canoas that they go a fishing in are sharp at both ends and both the sides and the bottom are very thin and smooth They are shaped somewhat like the Proes at Guam with one side flattish and the other with a pretty big belly and they have small slight Outlagers on one side Being thus thin and light they are better managed with Oars than with Sails yet they sail well enought and are steer'd with a Paddle There commonly go 20 or 30 Men in one of these Canoas and seldom fewer than 9 or 10. Their Oars are short and they do not paddle but row with them as we do The Benches they sit on when they row are made of split Bambo's laid across and so near together that they look like a Deck The Bambos lie moveable so that when any go in to row they take up a Bambo in the place where they would sit and lay it by to make room for their Legs The Canoas of those of the rest of these Islands were like those of Nicobar and probably they were alike in other things for we saw no difference at all in the Natives of them who came hither while we were here But to proceed with our affairs it was as I said before the 5th day of May about 10 in the morning when we anchored at this Island Captain Read immediately ordered his Men to heel the Ship in order to clean her which was done this day and the next All the Water Vessels were fill'd they intending to go to Sea at night for the winds being yet at N. N. E. the Captain was in hopes to get over to Cape Comorin before the wind shifted Otherwise it would have been somewhat difficult for him to get thither because the Westerly Monsoon was now at hand I thought
They keeping at a distance rowed away faster than we did and got to the Bay before us and there with about 20 more Canoas full of Men they all landed and stood to hinder us from landing But we rowed in within a hundred yards of them Then we lay still and I took my Gun and presented at them at which they all fell down flat on the ground But I turn'd my self about and to shew that we did not intend to harm them I fired my Gun off to Sea so that they might see the Shot graze on the water Assoon as my Gun was loaden again we rowed gently in at which some of them withdrew The rest standing up did still cut and hew the Air making signs of their hatred till I once more frighted them with my Gun and discharg'd it as before Then more of them sneak'd away leaving only 5 or 6 Men on the Bay Then we rowed in again and Mr. Hall taking his Sword in his hand leapt ashore and I stood ready with my Gun to fire at the Indians if they had injured him but they did not stir till he came to them and saluted them He shook them by the hand and by such signs of friendship as he made the Peace was concluded ratified and confirmed by all that were present and others that were gone were again call'd back and they all very joyfully accepted of a Peace This became universal over all the Island to the great joy of the Inhabitants There was no ringing of Bells nor Bonfires made for that is not the custom here but gladness appeared in their Countenances for now they could go out and fish again without fear of being taken This peace was not more welcom to them than to us for now the Inhabitants brought their Melory again to us which we bought for old Rags and small stripes of Cloath about as broad as the palm of ones hand I did not see above 5 or 6 Hens for they have but few on the Island At some places we saw some small Hogs which we could have bought of them reasonably but we would not offend our Achinese Friends who were Mahometans We stayed here 2 or 3 days and then rowed toward the South end of the Island keeping on the East side and we were kindly received by the Natives where ever we came When we arrived at the South end of the Island we fitted our selves with Melory and Water We bought 3 or 4 Loaves of Melory and about 12 large Coco-nut shells that had all the Kernel taken out yet were preserved whole except only a small hole at one end and all these held for us about 3 gallons and a half of Water We bought also 2 or 3 Bambo's that held about 4 or 5 gallons more This was our Sea store We now designed to go to Achin a Town on the N. W. end of the Island Sumatra distant from hence about 40 leagues bearing South South East We only waited for the western Monsoon which we had expected a great while and now it seemed to be at hand for the Clouds began to hang their heads to the Eastward and at last moved gently that way and though the Wind was still at East yet this was an infallible sign that the western Monsoon was nigh CHAP. XVIII The Author with some other puts to Sea in an open Boat designing for Achin Their Accommodations for their Voyage Change of Weather a Halo about the Sun and a violent storm Their great danger and distress Cudda a Town and Harbour on the Coast of Malacca Pulo Way Golden Mountain on the Isle of Sumatra River and Town of Passenge-Jonca on Sumatra near Diamond-point where they go ashore very sick and are kindly entertained by the Oromkay and Inhabitants They go thence to Achin The Author is examined before the Shabander and takes Physick of a Malayan Doctor His long illness He sets out towards Nicobar again but returns suddenly to Achin Road. He makes several Voyages thence to Tonqueen to Malacca to Fort St. George and to Bencouli an English Factory on Sumatra An account of the Ships Crew who set the Author ashore at Nicobar Some go to Trangambar a Danish Fort on Coromandel others to Fort St. George many to the Mogul's Camp Of the Peuns and how John Oliver made himself a Captain Captain Read with the rest having plundered a rich Portuguese Ship near Ceylon goes to Madagascar and Ships himself off thence in a New-york Ship The Traverses of the rest to Johanna c. Their Ship the Cygnet of London now lies sunk in Augustin Bay at Madagascar Of Prince Jeoly the Painted man whom the Author brought with him to England and who died at Oxford Of his Country the Isle of Meangis the Cloves there c. The Author is made Gunner of Bencouli but is forced to slip away from thence to come for England IT was the 15th day of May 1688 about 4 a clock in the afternoon when we left Nicobar Island directing our course toward Achin being 8 men of us in Company viz. 3 English 4 Malayans who were born at Achin and the mungrel Portuguese Our Vessel the Nicobar Canoa was not one of the biggest nor of the least size She was much about the burthen of one of our London Wherrys below Bridge and built sharp at both ends like the fore part of a Wherry She was deeper than a Wherry but not so broad and was so thin and light that when empty 4 men could launch her or hale her ashore on a sandy Bay We had a good substantial Mast and a mat Sail and good Outlagers lasht very fast and firm on each side the Vessel being made of strong poles So that while these continued firm the Vessel could not overset which she would easily have done without them and with them too had they not been made very strong and we were therefore much beholding to our Achinese Companions for this contrivance These men were none of them so sensible of the danger as Mr. Hall and my self for they all consided so much in us that they did not so much as scruple any thing that we did approve of Neither was Mr. Hall so well provided as I was for before we left the Ship I had purposely consulted our Draft of the East Indies for we had but one in the Ship and out of that I had written in my pocket-book an account of the bearing and distance of all the Malacca Coast and that of Sumatra Pegu and Siam and also brought away with me a pocket Compass for my direction in any enterprize that I should undertake The weather at our setting out was very fair clear and hot The Wind was still at S. E. a very small breeze just fanning the Air and the Clouds were moving gently from West to East which gave us hopes that the Winds were either at West already abroad at Sea or would be so in a very short time We took this opportunity of fair weather
being in hopes to accomplish our Voyage to Achin before the western Monsoon was set in strong knowing that we should have very blustring weather after this fair weather especially at the first coming of the western Monsoon We rowed therefore away to the Southward supposing that when we were clear from the Island we should have a true Wind as we call it for the Land hales the Wind and we often find the Wind at Sea different from what it is near the Shore We rowed with 4 Oars taking our turns Mr. Hall and I steered also by turns for none of the rest were capable of it We rowed the first afternoon and the night ensuing about twelve leagues by my judgment Our course was South South East but the 16th day in the morning when the Sun was an hour high we saw the Island from whence we came bearing N. W. by N. Therefore I found we had gone a point more to the East than I intended for which reason we steered S. by E. In the afternoon at 4 a clock we had a gentle breeze at W. S. W. which continued so till 9 all which time we laid down our Oars and steered away S. S. E. I was then at the Helm and I found by the ripling of the Sea that there was a strong Current against us It made a great noise that might be heard near half a mile At 9 a clock it fell calm and so continued till 10. Then the Wind sprung up again and blew a fresh breeze all night The 17th day in the morning we lookt out for the Island Sumatra supposing that we were now within 20 leagues of it for we had rowed and sailed by our reckoning 24 leagues from Nicobar Island and the distance from Nicobar to Achin is about 40 leagues But we lookt in vain for the Island Sumatra for turning our selves about we saw to our grief Nicobar Island lying W. N. W. and not above 8 leagues distant By this it was visible that we had met a very strong Current against us in the night But the wind freshned on us and we made the best use of it while the weather continued fair At noon we had an observation of the Sun my lat was 6 d. 55 m. and Mr. Hall's was 7 d. N. The 18th day the Wind freshned on us again and the Sky began to be clouded It was indifferent clear till noon and we thought to have had an Observation but we were hindred by the Clouds that covered the face of the Sun when it came on the Meridian This often happens that we are disappointed of making Observations by the Suns being clouded at noon though it shines clear both before and after especially in places near the Sun and this obscuring of the Sun at noon is commonly sudden and unexpected and for about half an hour or more We had then also a very ill presage by a great Circle about the Sun 5 or 6 times the Diameter of it which seldom appears but storms of Wind or much Rain ensue Such Circles about the Moon are more frequent but of less import We do commonly take great notice of these that are about the Sun observing if there be any breach in the Circle and in what quarter the breach is for from thence we commonly find the greatest stress of the Wind will come I must confess that I was a little anxious at the sight of this Circle and wisht heartily that we were near some Land Yet I shewed no sign of it to discourage my Consorts but made a virtue of necessity and put a good countenance on the matter I told Mr. Hall that if the Wind became too strong and violent as I feared it would it being even then very strong we must of necessity steer away before the Wind and Sea till better Weather presented and that as the Winds were now we should instead of about 20 leagues to Achin be driven 60 or 70 leagues to the Coast of Cudda or Queda a Kingdom and Town and Harbour of Trade on the Coast of Malacca The Winds therefore bearing very hard we rolled up the foot of our Sail on a pole fastned to it and settled our yard within 3 foot of the Canoa sides so that we had now but a small sail yet it was still too big considering the Wind for the Wind being on our broad side prest her down very much tho supported by her Outlagers insomuch that the poles of the Outlagers going from the sides of their Vessel bent as if they would break and should they have broken our overturning and perishing had been inevitable Besides the Sea increasing would soon have filled the Vessel this way Yet thus we made a shift to bear up with the side of the Vessel against the Wind for a while But the Wind still increasing about one a clock in the afternoon we put away right before Wind and Sea continuing to run thus all the afternoon and part of the night ensuing The Wind continued increasing all the afternoon and the Sea still swelled higher and often broke but did us no damage for the ends of the Vessel being very narrow he that steered received and broke the Sea on his back and so kept it from coming in so much as to endanger the Vessel though much Water would come in which we were forced to keep heaving out continually And by this time we saw it was well that we had altered our course every Wave would else have filled and sunk us taking the side of the Vessel And though our Outlagers were well lasht down to the Canoas bottom with Rattans yet they must probably have yielded to such a Sea as this when even before they were plunged under Water and bent like twigs The evening of this 18th day was very dismal The Sky looked very black being covered with dark Clouds the Wind blew hard and the Seas ran high The Sea was already roaring in a white fome about us a dark night coming on and no Land in sight to shelter us and our little Ark in danger to be swallowed by every Wave and what was worst of all none of us thought our selves prepared for another World The Reader may better guess than I can express the confusion that we were all in I had been â—…in many eminent dangers before now some of which I have already related but the worst of them all was but a play-game in comparison with this I must confess that I was in great conflicts of Mind at this time Other dangers came not upon me with such a leisurely and dreadful solemnity A sudden Skirmish or Engagement or so was nothing when ones blood was up and pusht forward with eager expectations But here I had a lingring view of approaching death and little or no hopes of escaping it and I must confess that my courage which I had hitherto kept up failed me here and I made very sad reflections on my former Life and lookt back with horrour and
detestation on actions which before I disliked but now I trembled at the remembrance of I had long before this repented me of that rovingcourse of life but never with such concern as now I did also call to mind the many miraculous acts of Gods Providence towards me in the whole course of my life of which kind I believe few men have met with the like For all these I returned thanks in a peculiar manner and this once more desired Gods assistance and composed my mind as well as I could in the hopes of it and as the event shew'd I was not disappointed of my hopes Submitting our selves therefore to Gods good providence and taking all the care we could to preserve our lives Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer and the rest took turns to heave out the Water and thus we provided to spend the most doleful night I ever was in About 10 a clock it began to Thunder Lighten and Rain but the Rain was very welcom to us having drank up all the Water we brought from the Island The Wind at first blew harder than before but within half an hour it abated and became more moderate and the Sea also asswaged of its fury and then by a lighted Match of which we kept a piece burning on purpose we looked on our Compass to see how we steered and found our course to be still East We had no occasion to look on the Compass before for we steered right before the Wind which if it had shifted we had been obliged to have altered our couse accordingly But now it being abated we found our Vessel lively enough with that small sail which was then aboard to hale to our former course S. S. E. which accordingly we did being now in hopes again to get to the Island Sumatra But about 2 a clock in the morning of the 19th day we had another gust of Wind with much Thunder Lightening and Rain which lasted till day and obliged us to put before the Wind again steering thus for several hours It was very dark and the hard Rain soaked us so throughly that we had not one dry thread about us The Rain chill'd us extreamly for any fresh water is much colder than that of the Sea For even in the coldest Climates the Sea is warm and in the hottest Climates the Rain is cold and unwholesome for mans body In this wet starveling plight we spent the tedious night Never did poor Mariners on a Lee-shore more earnestly long for the dawning light than we did now At length the day appeared but with such dark black Clouds near the Horizon that the first glimpse of the Dawn appeared 30 or 40 degrees high which was dreadful enough for it is a common saying among Sea-men and true as I have experienced that a high dawn will have high winds and a low dawn small winds We continued our course still East before Wind and Sea till about 8 a clock in the morning of this 19th day and then one of our Malayan friends cryed out Pulo Way Mr. Hall and Ambrose and I thought the fellow had said Pull away an expression usual among English Sea-men when they are Rowing And we wonder'd what he meant by it till we saw him point to his consorts and then we looking that way saw Land appearing like an Island and all our Malayans said it was an Island at the N. W. end of Sumatra called Way for Pulo Way is the Island Way We who were dropping with wet cold and hungry were all overjoyed at the sight of the Land and presently marked its bearing It bore South and the Wind was still at West a strong gale but the Sea did not run so high as in the night Therefore we trimmed our small Sail no bigger than an Apron and steered with it Now our Outlagers did us a great kindness again for although we had but a small sail yet the Wind was strong and prest down our Vessels side very much but being supported by the Outlagers we could brook it well enough which otherwise we could not have done About noon we saw more Land beneath the supposed Pulo Way and steering towards it before night we saw all the Coast of Sumatra and found the errours of our Achinese for the high Land that we first saw which then appeared like an Island was not Pulo Way but a great high Mountain on the Island Sumatra called by the English the Golden Mountain Our Wind continued till about 7 a clock at night then it abated and at 10 a clock it died away and then we stuck to our Oars again though all of us quite tired with our former fatigues and hardships The next morning being the 20th day we saw all the low Land plain and judged our selves not above 8 leagues off About 8 a clock in the morning we had the Wind again at West a fresh gale and steering in still for the Shore at 5 a clock in the afternoon we run to the mouth of a River on the Island Sumatra called Passange Jonca It is 34 leagues to the Eastward of Achin and 6 leagues to the West of Diamond Point which makes with 3 Angles of a Rhombus and is low Land Our Malayans were very well acquainted here and carried us to a small fishing Village within a mile of the Rivers mouth called also by the name of the River Passange Jonca The hardships of this Voyage with the scorching heat of the Sun at our first setting out and the cold Rain and our continuing wet for the last two days cast us all into Fevers so that now we were not able to help each other nor so much as to get our Canoa up to the Village but our Malayans got some of the Townsmen to bring her up The news of our arrival being noised abroad one of the Oramkai's or Noblemen of the Island came in the night to see us We were then lying in a small Hut at the end of the Town and it being late this Lord only viewed us and having spoken with our Malayans went away again but he returned to us again the next day and provided a large house for us to live in till we should be recovered of our sickness ordering the Towns-people to let us want for nothing The Achinese Malayans that came with us told them all the circumstances of our Voyage how they were taken by our Ship and where and how we that came with them were Prisoners aboard the Ship and had been set ashore together at Nicobar as they were It was for this reason probably that the Gentlemen of Sumatra were thus extraordinary kind to us to provide every thing that we had need of nay they would force us to accept of Presents from them that we knew not what to do with as young Buffaloes Goats c. for these we would turn loose at night after the Gentlemen that gave them to us were gone for we were prompted by our Achinese Consorts to
the men come ashore but a great many of these Peuns are ready to profer their Service 'T is usual for the strangers to hire their attendance during their stay there giving them about a Crown a month of our Money more or less The richest sort of men will ordinarily hire 2 or 3 Peuns to wait upon them and even the common Seamen if able will hire one a piece to attend them either for convenience or ostentation or sometimes one Peun between two of them These Peuns serve them in many capacities as Interpreters Brokers Servants to attend at Meals and go to Market and on Errands c. Nor do they give any trouble eating at their own homes and lodging there when they have done their Masters business for them expecting nothing but their Wages except that they have a certain allowance of about a Fanam or 3 d. in a Dollar which is an 18th part profit by way of Brokerage for every Bargain they drive they being generally employed in buying and selling When the Strangers go away their Peuns desire them to give them their Names in Writing with a Certificate of their honest and diligent serving them and these they shew to the next comers to get into business some being able to produce a large scrowl of such Certificates But to proceed The Moors Town where these men landed was not far from Cunnimere a small English Factory on the Coromandel Coast. The Governour whereof having intelligence by the Moors of the landing of these men and their intended march to the Mogul's Camp sent out a Captain with his Company to oppose it He came up with them and gave them hard words but they being 30 or 40 resolute Fellows not easily daunted he durst not attack them but returned to the Governour and the news of it was soon carried to Fort St. George During their march John Oliver who was one of them privately told the Peun who guided them that himself was their Captain So when they came to the Camp the Peun told this to the General and when their Stations and Pay were assign'd them John Oliver had a greater respect paid him than the rest and whereas their pay was ten Pagodas a month each man a Pagoda is 2 Dollars or 9 s. English his pay was 20 Pagodas which stratagem and usurpation of his occasioned him no small envy and indignation from his Comerades Soon after this 2 or 3 of them went to Agra to be of the Moguls Guard A while after the Governor of Fort St. George sent a message to the main body of them and a Pardon to withdraw them from thence which most of them accepted and came away John Oliver and the small Remainder continued in the Country but leaving the Camp went up and down plundering the Villages and fleeing when they were pursued and this was the last News I heard of them This account I had partly by Mr. Morgan from some of those Deserters he met with at Trangambar and partly from others of them whom I met with my self afterwards at Fort St. George And these were the Adventures of those who went up into the Country Captain Read having thus lost the best half of his Men sailed away with the rest of them after having filled his Water and got Rice still intending for the Red Sea When they were near Ceylon they met with a Portuguese Ship richly laden out of which they took what they pleas'd and then turn'd her away again From thence they pursued their Voyage but the Westerly Winds bearing hard against them and making it hardly feizable for them to reach the Red Sea they stood away for Madagascar There they entered into the service of one of the Petty Princes of that Island to assist him against his Neighbours with whom he was at Wars During this Interval a small Vessel from New York came hither to purchase Slaves which Trade is driven here as it is upon the Coast of Guinea one Nation or Clan selling others that are their Enemies Captain Read with about 5 or 6 more stole away from their Crew and went aboard this New York Ship and Captain Teat was made Commander of the Residue Soon after which a Brigantine from the West Indies Captain Knight Commander coming thither with design to go to the Red Sea also these of the Cygnet consorted with them and they went together to the Island Johanna Thence going together towards the Red Sea the Cygnet proving leaky and sailing heavily as being much out of Repair Captain Knight grew weary of her Company and giving her the slip in the night went away for Achin for having heard that there was plenty of Gold there he went thither with a design to cruize and 't was from one Mr. Humes belonging to the Ann of London Captain Freke Commander who had gone aboard Captain Knight and whom I saw afterwards at Achin that I had this Relation Some of Captain Freke's Men their own Ship being lost had gone aboard the Cygnet at Johanna and after Captain Knight had left her she still pursued her Voyage towards the Red Sea but the Winds being against them and the Ship in so ill a condition they were forc'd to bear away for Coromandel where Captain Teat and his own Men went ashore to serve the Mogul But the Strangers of Captain Freke's Ship who kept still aboard the Cygnet undertook to carry her for England and the last News I heard of the Cygnet was from Captain Knox who tells me that she now lies sunk in St. Augustin Bay in Madagasear This Digression I have made to give an account of our Ship The other passage I shall speak of that occurred during this Interval of the Tour I made from Achin is with relation to the Painted Prince whom I brought with me into England and who died at Oxford For while I was at Fort St. George about April 1690 there arrived a Ship called the Mindanao Merchant laden with Clove-bark from Mindanao 3 of Captain Swan's Men that remained there when we went from thence came in her from whom I had the Account of Captain Swan's Death as is before related There was also one Mr. Moody who was Supercargo of the Ship This Gentleman bought at Mindanao the Painted Prince Jeoly mentioned in Chapter XIII and his Mother and brought them to Fort St. George where they were much admired by all that saw them Sometime after this Mr. Moody who spoke the Malayan Language very well and was a person very capable to manage the Companys affairs was ordered by the Governour of Fort St. George to prepare to go to Indrapore an English Factory on the West Coast of Sumatra in order to succeed Mr. Gibbons who was Chief of that place By this time I was very intimately acquainted with Mr. Moody and was importuned by him to go with him and to be Gunner of the Fort there I always told him I had a great desire to go to the Bay of Bengal and
advantage to themselves that after about 4 hours fighting they cut their Cables and went away in haste and disorder with all their Sails loose even their Top-gallant sails which is not usual but when Ships are just next to running away Captain Heath notwithstanding his Ship was so heavy and incumbred behaved himself very bravely in the fight and upon the going off of the French went aboard the Dutch Commadore and told him that if he would pursue them he would stand out with them to Sea though he had very little Water aboard but the Dutch Commander excused himself saying he had orders to defend himself from the French but none to chase them or go out of his way to seek them And this was the exploit which the French have thought fit to brag of I hear that the Dutch have taken from them since their Fort of Ponticheri But to proceed with our Voyage We had not been at Sea long before our men began to droop in a sort of a distemper that stole insensibly on them and proved fatal to above 30 who died before we arrived at the Cape We had sometimes two and once three men thrown over board in a morning This distemper might probably arise from the badness of the Water which we took in at Bencouli for I did observe while I was there that the River-water wherewith our Ships were watered a ws very unwholesom it being mixt with the Water of many small Creeks that proceeded from low Land and whose streams were always very black they being nourished by the Water that drained out of the low swampy unwholesom ground I have observed not only there but in other hot Countries also both in the East and West Indies that the Land-floods which pour into the Channels of the Rivers about the season of the Rains are very unwholesom For when I lived in the Bay of Campeachy the Fish were found dead in heaps on the shores of the Rivers and Creeks at such a season and many we took up half dead of which sudden mortality there appeared no cause but only the malignity of the Waters draining off the Land This happens chiefly as I take it where the water drains through thick Woods and Savannahs of long Grass and swampy Grounds with which some hot Countries abound and I believe it receives a strong Tincture from the Roots of several kind of Trees Herbs c. and especially where there is any stagnancy of the Water it soon corrupts and possibly the Serpents and other poisonous Vermin and Infects may not a little contribure to its bad qualities at such times it will look very deep coloured yellow red or black c. The season of the Rains was over and the Land floods were abating upon the taking up this Water in the River of Bencouli but would the Seamen have given themselves the trouble they might have fill'd their Vessels with excellent good Water at a Spring on the back side of the Fort not above 2 or 300 paces from the Landing place and with which the Fort it serv'd And I mention this as a caution to any Ships that shall go to Bencouli for the future and withal I think it worth the care of the Owners or Governours of the Factory and that it would tend much to the preservation of their Seamens lives to lay Pipes to convey the Fountain Water to the shore which might easily be done with a small charge and had I staid longer there I would have undertaken it I had a design also of bringing it into the Fort though much higher for it would be a great convenience and security to it in case of a Siege Beside the badness of our Water it was stowed among the Pepper in the Hold which made it very hot Every morning when we came to take our allowance it was so hot that a man could hardly suffer his hands in it or hold a bottle full of it in his hand I never any where felt the like nor could have thought it possible that Water should heat to that degree in a Ships Hold. It was exceeding black too and looked more like Ink than Water Whether it grew so black with standing or was tinged with the Pepper I know not for this Water was not so black when it was first taken up Our food also was very bad for the Ship had been out of England upon this Voyage above three years and the salt Provision brought from thence and which we fed on having been so long in salt was but ordinary food for sickly men to live on Captain Heath when he saw the misery of his Company ordered his own Tamarinds of which he had some Jars aboard to be given some to each mess to eat with their Rice This was a great refreshment to the men and I do believe it contributed much to keep us on our legs This distemper was so universal that I do believe there was scarce a man in the Ship but languished under it yet it stole so insensibly on us that we could not say we were sick feeling little or no pain only a weakness and but little stomach Nay most of those that died in this Voyage would hardly be perswaded to keep their Cabbins or Hammacks till they could not stir about and when they were forced to lye down they made their Wills and piked off in 2 or 3 days The loss of these men and the weak languishing condition that the rest of us were in rendered us uncapable to govern our Ship when the wind blew more than ordinary This often happened when we drew near the Cape and as oft put us to our trumps to manage the Ship Captain Heath to incourage his men to their labour kept his watch as constantly as any man tho sickly himself and lent an helping hand on all occasions But at last almost despairing of gaining his passage to the Cape by reason of the Winds coming Southerly and we having now been sailing 8 or 9 weeks he called all our men to consult about our safety and desired every man from the highest to the lowest freely to give his real opinion and advice what to do in this dangerous juncture for we were not in a condition to keep out long and could we not get to Land quickly must have perished at Sea He consulted therefore whether it were best to beat still for the Cape or bear away for Johanna where we might expect relief that being a place where our outward bound East India Ships usually touch and whose Natives are very familiar but other places especially St. Laurence or Madagascar which was nearer was unknown to us We were now so nigh the Cape that with a fair Wind we might expect to be there in 4 or 5 days but as the Wind was now we could not hope to get thither On the other side this Wind was fair to carry us to Johanna but then Johanna was a great way off and if the Wind should continue as
more distinct account of them And to keep to the order of time the Reader may recollect that my first departure from Achin was to Tonquin along with Captain Weldon about July 1688. as I have said p. 505th of my former Volume I have there related in a page or two before to how weak a condition my self and my Companions were brought through the fatigues of our passage from Nicobar to Achin yet did not my weakness take me off from contriving some employment or expedition whereby I might have a comfortable subsistence Captain Weldon touched here to sell the Slaves he had brought with him from Fort St. George it being in his way to the Streights of Malacca and so to Tonquin whither he was bound This afforded me the opportunity of trying that Voyage to which he kindly invited me and to which I was the more incouraged because he had a good Surgeon in his Ship whose Advice I needed and my friend Mr. Hall was particularly animated thereby who had also resolv'd upon this Voyage and was in a weaker condition than my self Besides Captain Weldon promised to buy a Sloop at Tonquin of which he would make me Commander to go a trading Voyage from thence to Cochinchina Champa Cambodia or some other of the adjacent Countries which Trade has been scarce yet been attempted by our Country men and there were hopes it might turn to a good account but this project came to nothing However Captain Weldon having finished his business at Achin I set out thence with him through the Streights of Malacca and we soon arrived at the Town of Malacca of which Town and Country I shall have a better occasion to speak hereafter Here we found the Caesar of London commanded by Captain Wright who came from Bombay and was bound to China He stopt here to water and refresh as is usual for Ships to do do that pass these Streights By him we were informed that three other English Ships had touched here and were past on to the Eastward 10 days before These 3 Ships came from Fort St. George in company with Captain Weldon but his business calling him to Achin they in the mean time prosecuting their Voyage got the start of us thus much The Caesar was soon ready to sail again and went away the next morning after our arrival at Malacca Our Captain being a stranger to the Bay of Tonquin as were all his Ships company he hired a Dutch Pilot at Malacca and having finished his business there we set sail two days after the Caesar We were desirous to overtake these four Ships and therefore crouded all the sail we could make having a strong westerly wind accompanied with many hard Gusts and Tornadoes and the very next day we got sight of them for they had not yet passed through a narrow passage called the Streights of Sincapore We soon got up with them and past through together and sailing about 3 leagues further we anchored near an Island called Pulo Nuttee belonging to the Kingdom of Jihore Here Captain Weldon took in wood and water and some of the Indian Inhabitants came aboard us in their Canoas of whom we bought a few Cocoa-nuts Plantains and fresh Fish We staid here not above 24 hours for the other Ships had filled most of their water at other Islands near this before we came up with them for tho Ships do usually take in water at Malacca Town yet they do as frequently discharge it again at some of these Islands and take in better We sailed the next day and kept near the Malacca shore and there passing by the mouth of the River Jihore we left many other Islands on our Star-board side The River of Jihore runs by the City of that name which is the seat of the little Kingdom of Jihore This Kingdom lies on the Continent of Malacca and consists of the extremity or doubling of that Promontory It abounds with Pepper and other good Commodities They are a Mahometan people very warlike and desirous of trade They delight much in Shipping and going to Sea all the neighbouring Islands in a manner being Colonies of this Kingdom and under its Government They coast about in their own Shipping to several parts of Sumatra Java c. their Vessels are but small yet very serviceable and the Dutch buy up a great many of them at a small price and make good trading Sloops of them But they first fit them up after their own fashion and put a Rudder to them which the Jihorians don't use tho they are very good Sea-men in their way but they make their Vessels sharp at each end tho but one end is used as the Head and instead of a Rudder they have on each side the Stern a thing like a very broad Oar one of which they let down into the water at pleasure as there is occasion to steer the Ship either to the one side or the other always letting down that which is to the Leeward They have Proes of a particular neatness and curiosity We call them Half-moon Proes for they turn up so much at each end from the water that they much resemble a Half moon with the Horns upwards They are kept very clean sail well and are much used by them in their Wars The people of Jihore have formerly endeavoured to get a Commerce with our Nation For what reason that trade is neglected by us I know not The Dutch trade very much there and have lately endeavoured to bring the King who is very young to their bow At the farther end of the Streights of Malacca among many other Islands we sail'd by those of Pulo Oro and Pulo Timaon which last is a place often touch'd at for wood water and other refreshments tho we past it by Among other things there are great plenty of excellent Green Turtle among these Islands Being at length got clear of all the Islands into the wide Ocean we steered away still together till we came in sight of Pulo Condore when having all brought to and spoke with each other we parted for our several Voyages The Caesar and two others that were bound to China steered away to the Eastward keeping to the South of Pulo Condore it being their best course thereby to avoid the large sholes of Pracel We and the Saphire of Fort St George commanded by Captain Lacy steered more Northerly and leaving Pulo Condore on our Starboard we hall'd in for the Continent and fell in with it near the River of Cambodia But leaving this also on our Starboard side we coasted along to the Eastward keeping near the Champa shore and coming to the point of Land that bounds the S. W. part of the Bay of Tonquin we doubled it and coasting to the North leaving Champa still on our Larboard side and the dangerous shoals of Pracel about 12 or 14 leagues off on our Starboard side we kept along fair by the shore just without Pulo Canton This Island lies in about 13
three Captains and some others among whom I got leave to go also Captain Weldon had recommended me to the chief of the Factory while he was aboard us and my going up now to the City was in order to have his assistance in the Voyage to Cochinchina Champa or Cambodia which Captain Weldon had contrived for me nor was it his fault that it came to nothing We went from our Ships in the Country Boats we had hired with the tide of flood and anchored in the ebb for the tide runs strong for 30 or 40 miles beyond the place where we left our Ships Our men contented themselves with looking after their goods the Tonquinese being very light finger'd and left the management of the Boats entirely to the Boats crew Their Boats have but one Mast and when the wind is against them they take it down and ply their Oars As we advanced thus up the River sometimes rowing sometimes sailing we had a delightful prospect over a large level fruitful Country It was generally either Pasture or Rice-fields and void of Trees except only about the Villages which stood thick and appeared mighty pleasant at a distance There are many of these Villages stand close to the banks of the Rivers incompassed with Trees on the back side only but open to the River When we came near any of these Villages we were commonly encountered with Beggars who came off to us in little Boats made of twigs and plaistered over both inside and outside with Clay but very leaky These were a poor Leprous people who for that reason are compell'd by the rest to live by themselves and are permitted to beg publickly As soon as they spied us they set up a loud doleful cry and as we past by them we threw them out some Rice which they received with great appearance of joy In about 4 days time we get to Hean a Town on the East side of the River which is here entire for a little before we came to Hean we met the main stream where it parts into the Channels that of Domea which we came up and the other of Rokbo making so a large and triangular Island between them and the Sea the mouths of those Channels being as I have said 20 leagues asunder Hean is about 60 miles from the place where we left our Ships and about 80 from the Sea that way but along the River or Channel Rokbo where the Land trends more to the Southward it seems to be farther distant from the Sea 'T is a considerable Town of about 2000 Houses but the Inhabitants are most poor people and Souldiers who keep a Garrison there tho it has neither Walls Fort nor great Guns Here is one street belonging to the Chinese Merchants For some years ago a great many lived at Cachao till they grew so numerous that the Natives themselves were even swallowed up by them The King taking notice of it ordered them to remove from thence allowing them to live any where but in the City But the major part of them presently forsook the Country as not finding it convenient for them to live any where but at Cachao because that is the only place of Trade in the Country and Trade is the Life of a Chinese However some of them were content to settle at Hean where they have remained ever since And these Merchants notwithstanding the prohibition go often to Cachao to buy and sell goods but are not suffer'd to make it their constant residence There were two of these China Merchants who traded yearly to Japan with raw and wrought Silks bringing back Money chiefly These all of them wore long Hair braided behind as their own Country fashion was before the Tartarian Conquest The French too have their Factory here not being allowed to fix at Cachao and their Bishops Palace is the fairest building in Hean but of this I shall have occasion to speak more hereafter The Governor of the adjacent Province lives here He is one of the principal Mandarins of the Nation and he has always a great many Souldiers in the Town and inferiour Officers whom he employs at his pleasure on any occasion Besides here are also some of the Kings River Frigots which I shall hereafter describe ready to be sent on any expedition and tho no Europeans come up so far as this with their Ships that I could learn yet the Siamites and Chinese bring their Ships up the River Rokbo quite to Hean and lie at anchor before it and we found there several Chinese Jonks They ride afloat in the middle of the River for the water does not rise and fall much at this place Neither is the flood discerned by the turning of the stream for that always runs down tho not so swift near full Sea as at other times for the tide pressing against the stream tho faintly so far up the River has not power to turn it but only slackens its course and makes the water rise a little The Governor or his Deputy gives his Chop or Pass to all Vessels that go up or down not so much as a Boat being suffered to proceed without it For which reason we also made a stop yet we stayed here but a little while and therefore I did not now go ashore but had a while after this a better opportunity of seeing Hean From Hean we went up to Cachao in our Boats being about 2 days more on our Voyage for we had no tide to help us We landed at the English Factory and I stayed there 7 or 8 days before I went down to our Ships again in one of the Country Boats We had good weather coming up but it rain'd all the time of this my first stay at Cachao and we had much wet weather after this But having got thus far I shall now proceed to give some general account of this Country from my own observations and the experience of Merchants and others worthy of credit who have had their Residence there and some of them a great may years CHAP. II. Tonquin its Situation Soil Waters and Provinces It s natural Produce Roots Herbs Fruits and Trees The Cam-chain and Cam-quit Oranges Their Limes c. Their Betle and Lichea Fruit. The Pone tree Lack trees Mulberry trees and Rice Their land Animals Fowl tame and wild Nets for wild Ducks Locusts Fish Balachaun Nuke mum Pickle Soy and manner of Fishing The Market Provisions Food and Cookery Their Chau or Tea The Temperature of their Air and Weather throughout the Year Of the great Heats near the Tropicks Of the yearly Land Floods here and elsewhere in the Torrid Zone and of the overflowing of the Nile in Egypt Of Storms called Tuffoons and of the influence the Rains have on the Harvest at Tonquin and elsewhere in the Torrid Zone THE Kingdom of Tonquin is bounded to the North and North East with China to the West with the Kingdom of Laos to the S and E. with Cochinchina and the Sea
notwithstanding these they are seldom out of mire and wet even in the midst of the Village or Garden so long as that season lasts The Inhabitants of the higher part of the Kingdom are not troubled with such inconveniencies but live more cleanly and comfortably forasmuch as their Land is never overflown with water and tho they live also in Villages or Towns as the former yet they have no occasion to surround them with banks or trenches but lie open to the Forest. The Capital City Cachao which stands in the high Country about 80 miles from the Sea on the West side of the River and on a pretty level yet rising ground lies open in the same manner without wall bank or ditch There may be in Cachao about 20000 Houses The Houses are generally low the walls of the Houses are of mud and the covering thatch yet some are built with brick and the covering with pantile Most of these Houses have a yard or backside belonging to them In each yard you shall see a small arched building made somewhat like an Oven about 6 foot high with the mouth on the ground It is built from top to bottom with brick all over daub'd thick with mud and dirt If any house wants a yard they have nevertheless such a kind of Oven as this but smaller set up in the middle of the House it self and there is scarce a house in the City without one The use of it is to thrust their chiefest goods into when a Fire happens for these low thatch'd Houses are very subject to take fire especially in the dry times to the destruction of many Houses in an instant that often they have scarce time to secure their goods in the arched Ovens tho so near them As every private person hath this contrivance to secure his own goods when a Fire happens so the Government hath carefully ordered necessary means to be used for the preventing of Fire or extinguishing it before it gets too great a head For in the beginning of the dry season every man must keep a great Jar of water on the top of his House to be ready to pour down as occasion shall serve Besides this he is to keep a long pole with a basket or bowl at the end of it to throw water out of the Kennels upon the houses But if the Fire gets to such a head that both these expedients fail then they cut the straps that hold the Thatch of the Houses and let it drop from the rafters to the ground This is done with little trouble for the Thatch is not laid on as ours neither is it tyed on by single leaves as in the West Indies and many parts of the East Indies where they Thatch with Palmeto or Palm tree leaves but this is made up in Panes of 7 or 8 foot square before it is laid on so that 4 or 6 Panes more or less according to the bigness of the House will cover one side of it and these Panes being only fastned in a few places to the rafters with Rattans they are easily cut and down drops half the covering at once These panes are also better than loose thatch as being more managable in case any of them should fall on or near near the Oven where the Goods are for they are easily dragg'd off to another place The Neighbouring Houses may this way be soon uncovered before the flame comes to them and the Thatch either carried away or at least laid where it may burn by itself And for this purpose every man is ordered to keep a long Pole or Bambo at his door with a Cutting-hook at the end of it purposely for uncovering the houses and if any man is found without his Jar upon the house and his Bucket-pole and long Hook at his door he will be punish'd severely for his neglect They are rigorous in exacting this for even with all this caution they are much and often damaged by Fire The principal streets in this City are very wide tho some are but narrow They are most of them pav'd or pitch'd rather with small Stones but after a very ill manner In the wet season they are very dirty and in the dry time there are many stagnant ponds and some ditches full of black stinking mud in and about the City This makes it unpleasant and a man would think unwholesome too yet it is healthy enough as far as I perceiv'd or could ever learn The Kings of Tonquin who make this City their constant Residence have two or three Palaces in it such as they be Two of them are very mean they are built with timber yet have they many great Guns planted in Houses near them Stables for the Kings Elephants and Horses and pretty large square spots of ground for the Soldiers to draw themselves up regularly before him The third Palace is call'd the Palace Royal It is more magnificently built than the other two yet built also with timber but all open as the Divans in Turky are said to be The wall that incompasseth it is most remarkable It is said to be 3 leagues in circumference The heighth of this Wall is about 15 or 16 foot and almost as many broad or thick It is faced up on both sides with Brick there are several small Gates to go in and out at but the main Gate faceth to the City This they say is never opened but when the Boua or Emperor goes in or comes out There are two smaller Gates adjoyning to it one on each side which are opened on all occasions for any concern'd there to pass in and out but strangers are not permitted this liberty Yet they may ascend to the top of the Wall and walk round it there being stairs at the Gate to go up by and in some places the Walls are fallen down Within this Wall there are large Fish-ponds where also there are Pleasure-Boats for the Emperors diversion I shall defer speaking of him whose Prison this is rather than Court till the next Chapter where I shall discourse of the Government The house of the English Factory who are very few is pleasantly seated on the North end of the City fronting to the River 'T is a pretty handsome low built House the best that I saw in the City There is a handsome Dining-room in the middle and at each end convenient apartments for the Merchants Factors and Servants belonging to the Company to live in with other conveniences This House stands parallel with the River and at each end of it there are smaller Houses for other uses as Kitchin Store-Houses c. runing in a line from the great House towards the River making two Wings and a square Court open to the River In this square space near the banks of the River there stands a Flag-staff purposely for the hoysing up the English Colours on all occasions for it is the custom of our Countrymen aboard to let fly their Colours on Sundays and all other remarkable
planted afore and looks out through a port in the Bow They have a small Mast and Matt Sail and they are rowed with from 16 or 20 to 24 Oars The Soldiers are always the men that row and they are all naked except that they have a narrow piece of black Cloath like a Sash about their Wastes which is brought between their Thighs and tuckt again under their Waste Every one stands upright behind his Oar which lies in its notch on the Gunnal and he thrusts or pushes it forward with a great strength and they plunge their Oars all at one instant into the Water keeping exact time with each other and that they may the better do this there is one that strikes on a small Gong or a wooden Instrument before every stroke of the Oar. Then the Rowers all at once answer with a sort of a hollow noise through the Throat and a stamp on the deck with one foot and immediately plunge their Oars into the Water Thus the Gong and the Rowers alternately answer each other making a sound that seems very pleasant and warlike to those who are at a small distance on the Water or Shoar These Boats draw about 2 foot and a half water They are only serviceable in Rivers or at Sea near the Shoar and that in very fair weather too They are best in the broad Rivers near the Sea where they may take the advantage of the Tides to help them for tho they row pretty swift when they are light yet when they have 60 80 or 100 men aboard as sometimes they have they are heavy and row slowly against the stream Nevertheless when there is occasion they must go against the stream a great way tho they perform it with great labour The Soldiers in these Vessels are equipt with Bows Swords and Lances and when many of them are sent on any expedition they are divided into Squadrons They are distinguished by their several Flags of different colours as appeared by an expedition they made up the River against some of their Northern Neighbours while we were there There were then about 60 of these Galleys sent out up the River and they had from 16 to 40 Soldiers in each all well armed Their General was called Ungee Comei who was a great Mandarin and was the person appointed by the King to inspect into our English Traffick being made director or protector of the English Factory who used to speak of him as a generous man There were two more great Officers under him each in a Vessel by himself These three had Flags of distinction the first was yellow the second blue the third red or green They went away from Cachao towards the Mountains but did not return while we were there but since we came from thence I have been informed that the expedition prov'd fruitless and that the General Ungee Comei was much disgraced When the Galleys are not in service they are dragged ashoar and placed in Houses built for that purpose where they are set upright on their bottoms made very clean and kept neat and dry These Galley-Houses are 50 or 60 paces from the River side and when they bring the Galleys into them there is a strong Rope brought round the stern of the Vessel and both ends stretched along one on each side then 3 or 400 men standing ready with the Rope in their hands wait for the signal which being given by the beat of a Gong they begin to draw with all their strength and making a great shricking noise they run her up in a trice into her place This also is their Soldiers work who having thus Housed all their Galleys return to their Land-service Some of the Souldiers are imploy'd also in keeping Watch and Ward for the security of private men as well as in the Kings business and the Tonquinese are observ'd to keep good orders in the night in all Towns and Villages but more particularly in the great Cities amd especially at Caehao There every Street is guarded with a strong watch as well to keep silence as to hinder any disorder The Watch-men are armed with Staves and stand in the Street by the Watch-houses to examin every one that passeth by There is also a Rope stretched cross the Street brest high and no man may pass this place till he is examin'd unless he will venture to be soundly bang'd by the Watch. These men can handle their weapon so well that if they design mischief they will dextrously break a Leg or Thigh-bone that being the place which they commonly strike at There is a pair of Stocks by every Watch house to secure night ramblers in but for a small piece of Money a man may pass quiet enough and for the most part only the poor are taken up These Watch-men are Soldiers but belong to the Governor or some other men of great power who will hear no complaints against them tho never so justly made and therefore they often put men in the Stocks at their pleasure and in the morning carry them before a Magistrate who commonly fines the Prisoners to pay somewhat and be it more or less it falls part to the Magistrate Neither dares any man complain of injustice upon such usage in this case especially tho his cause be never so just and therefore patience is in this Country as necessary for poor people as in any part of the World But notwithstanding these Abuses they have one Custom in the administring Justice that is pleasing enough For if a difference or quarrel at any time happens between 2 mean men and they are not to be reconciled without going before aMagistrate he usually considering their Poverty lays no heavy mulct on the offender but injoyns him this as his penalty that he shall treat the injur'd Person with a Jarr of Arack and a Fowl or a small Porker that so feasting together they may both drown all animosity in good liquor and renew their Friendship But if it be a Controversy about a Debt they take a very different Method For the Debtors are many times order'd to be Prisoners in their Creditors houses where they are beaten or kept with a log of wood made fast to their Legs to hinder them from running away These poor Prisoners eat nothing but Rice and drink Water and are tyranically insulted over by their rigid Creditors till the debt is satisfied Their Corporal Punishments upon Malefactors and sometimes upon others are very severe Some are loaden with Iron chains fastned to their Legs with logs also like the Debtors but now mention'd Others have their Necks inclosed between 2 great heavy planks made like a Pillory but moveable for they carry it about with them where-ever they go and even when they go to rest they are forced to lye down and sleep in it as they can There is another sort of punishing instrument not unlike this called a Gongo This also is made to wear about the neck but is shaped like a
neither would they speak with us tho we made signs for them to stay We weighed also and jogg'd on after them but they sailed better than we We met little winds and calms so that 't was 7 or 8 days before we got as far as Diamond-point which is about 40 leagues from Achin Being about 4 leagues short off that point Captain Minchin desired me to set the Land and withal prick the Card and see what course we ought to keep all night for it was now about 6 a clock and we had a fine gale at W. S. W. our course yet being E. S. E. After I had set the Land I went into the Cabbin to look over the Draught to see what course we must steer after we came about the point Mr Coventry followed me and when I had satisfied my self he asked me what course we must steer I told him E. S. E. till 12 a clock if the gale stood and then we might hale more Southerly He seemed to be startled at it and told me that the Captain and he had been pricking the Card and thought that a S. E. or S. E. by S. course would do well at 8 a clock I said it was a good course to run ashore he argued a long time with me but I persisted in my opinion and when I told Captain Minchin of my opinion he was well satisfied Presently after this we had a pretty strong Tornado out of the S. W. which obliged us to hand our Top-sail When the stress of the Weather was over we set our Sails again and went in to Supper and ordered the man at Helm not to come to the Southward of the E. S. E. We stayed in the Cabbin till about 8 a clock and then we came out to set the Watch. It was now very dark by reason of a Thunder cloud that hung rumbling over the Land yet by the flashes of lightning we plainly saw the Land right ahead of us I was much surprized and ran into the Steeridge to look on the Compass and found that we were steering S. S. E. instead of E. S. E. I clapt the Helm a Starboard and brought her to N. E. by E. and N. E. we very narrowly escap'd being cast away When we first went to Supper we were 3 leagues off Land and then E. S. E. was a good course the Land lying E. S. E. parallel with our course But then the Man at Helm mistaking him Compass steer'd S. S. E. which runs right in upon the Shore I believe we had also some counter-current or Tide that help'd us in for we were quickly got into a Bay within the points of Land So that 't was now absolutely necessary to steer Northerly to get out of the Bay and by this time Mr Coventry was satisfied with what I told him in the Evening and was convinced of his error I undertook to direct the man at helm and the wind continuing I kept off till ten a Clock then I steered E. S. E. till 12 and then haled up S. S. E. and in the morning we were about 4 leagues S. E. from Diamond point and about 3 leagues to the North of an Island The Land from hence lying S. S. E. we steered so but meeting with calms again we anchored several times before we came to the River of Dilly which is 28 leagues from Diamond-point The Land between seems to be uneven most of it pretty high and very woody and 't is said that all this Country as far as the River Dilly is under the Queen of Achin About a League before we came to that River being within 2 mile of the Shore we saw the water of a muddy grey colour and tasting it found it to be sweet Therefore we presently filled some of our Water Cask and 't is an ordinary thing in several places to take up fresh water at Sea against the mouth of some River where it floats above the Salt water but we must dip but a little way down for sometimes if the Bucket goes but a foot deep it takes up Salt water with the fresh In the evening we had a fine Land Breeze with with which we ran along the Shore keeping on a wind and sounding every now and then At last we were got among the Sholes at the mouth of that River and puzzled to get our again The River is in Lat. 3 d. 50 m. N. It seems to be very large but it is not well known but only to the Natives who inhabit it and they are not very sociable but are by report a sort of Pirats living on rapin In the Morning we saw a sail standing off to an Island called Pulo Verero lying in Lat 3 d. 30 m. N. 7 Leagues from the Mouth of the River Dilly We having a fair wind stood after them intending there to wood and water at Pulo Verero For tho we took no fresh Water the evening before out of the Sea yet at the R. of Dilly it was brackish for tho the fresh water is born up by the Salt and it might be intire without mixture yet by plunging of the Bucket somewhat too low we might probably take up some of the Salt water with it They came to an Anchor about 2 or 3 a clock in the Afternoon but the Wind slackened and it was 8 Clock at night before we came thither We Anchored about a mile from them and presently hoysed out our Boat to go aboard for we judged that this was the Danish Ship that we saw when we came first from Achin I went in the Boat because Mr Coventry told me that Mr Coppenger was Surgeon of her the same person who was with me in the Boat when I was set ashore at the Nicobar Isles but was not suffered to stay with me Mr Coventry was now in the Boat with me and we went and haled the Ship asking whence she came and who was Commander They answered they were Danes from Trangambar for 't was the Ship we took it to be Then they askt who we were I answered English from Achin and that Mr Coventry was in the Boat but they would not believe it till Mr. Coventry spoke and the Captain knew his Voice neither did they till then believe we were Friends for they had every man his Gun in his hand ready to fire on us if we had gone aboard without haling as Mr. Coventry would have done in confidence that they knew him had not I disswaded him For it seems they were extreamly afraid of us insomuch that the Commander seeing us follow them in the morning would not have touched at these Islands tho he was in great want of Water and had not his black Merchants fallen before him on their Knees and even prayed him to take pity on them they had not anchored here These Merchants were inhabitants of Trangambar on the Coast of Coromandel They having no Ships of their own when the Danes fit out a Ship on any Voyage that they are inclined
Then we weighed again having a small land Wind but the Tyde of flood was against us and drove us to the Eastward When the Ebb came we jogged on and got about 3 leagues anchoring when the Flood came because the Winds were against us Thus we continued plying with the Ebb and anchoring every flood till we came to Pulo Parsalore where the Captain told me he would not go out the same way we came in as I would have perswaded him but kept the Malacca Shore aboard and past within the Sholes But in a few Hours after we ran upon a Shole driven on it by the Tide of Flood which here set to the Eastward tho by our Reckoning it should have been half Ebb and the Flood should have set Westward as we had it all the rest of the way from Malacca but the Sholes probably caused some whirling about of the Tide However the Sand we were struck upon was not above an 100 yards in circumference and the flood being rising we waited the time of high water and then drove over it having sent our Boat to discover how the Sholes lay while our Ship was aground Mr Richards all the while being in great fear lest the Malayans should come off in their Boats and attack the Vessel We were now afloat again and soon got without all the Sholes yet we did not stand over towards Sumatra but coasted along nearest the Malacca shore it being now most proper for us so to do yet for having the winds Westerly we could not have beat under the other shore 2 or 3 days after this we had sight of some Islands called Pulo Sambilong which in the Malayan Language signifies nine Islands there being so many of them lying scattering at unequal distances from each other It was near one of these Islands that Captain Minchin in a former Voyage was like to lose his hand by a prick with a Cat fishes Fin as I have said in my former Vol. p. 149. and tho his hand was cured yet he has lost the use of it ever since and is never likely to regain it more We stood in pretty near the shore in hopes to gain a fresh Land Wind. About 10 a Clock the Land Wind came off a gentle breez and we coasted along shore But a small Tornado coming off from the shore about midnight we broke our Mizen yard and being near a Dutch Island called Pulo Dinding we made in for it and anchored there the night ensuing and found there a Dutch Sloop mann'd with about 30 Soldiers at an anchor This is a small Island lying so nigh the main that Ships passing by cannot know it to be an Island It is pretty high Land and well watered with Brooks The mold is blackish deep and fat in the lower ground but the Hills are somewhat Rocky yet in general very woody The Trees are of divers sorts many of which are good Timber and large enough for any use Here are also some good for Masts and Yards they being naturally light yet tough and serviceable There s good riding on the East side between the Island and the Main You may come in with the Sea breeze and go out with a Land wind there is water enough and a secure Harbour The Dutch who are the only Inhabitants have a Fort on the East side close by the Sea in a bending of the Island which makes a small Cove for Ships to anchor in The Fort is built 4 square without Flankers or Bastions like a house every square is about 10 or 12 yards The Walls are of a good thickness made of stone and carried up to a good heighth of about 30 foot and covered over head like a dwelling House There may be about 12 or 14 Gnns in it some looking out at every square These Guns are mounted on a strong Platform made within the Walls about 16 Foot high and there are steps on the outside to ascend to the Door that opens to the Platform there being no other way into the Fort. Here is a Governour and about 20 or 30 Souldiers who all lodge in the Fort. The Soldiers have their lodging in the Platform among the Guns but the Governour has a fair Chamber above it where he lies with some of the Officers About a hundred yards from the Fort on the Bay by the Sea there is a low timbered House where the Governour abides all the day time In this House there were two or three Rooms for their use but the chiefest was the Governours Dining Room This fronted to the Sea and the end of it looked towards the Fort. There were two large Windows of about 7 or 8 foot square the lower part of them about 4 or 5 foot from the ground These Windows were wont to be left open all the day to let in the refreshing breeze but in the night when the Governour withdrew to the Fort they were closed with strong shutters and the Doors made fast till the next day The Continent of Malacca opposite to the Island is pretty low champion Land cloathed with lofty Woods and right against the Bay where the Dutch Fort stands there is a navigable River for small craft The product of the Country thereabouts besides Rice and other eatables is Tutaneg a sort of Tin I think courser than ours The Natives are Malayans who as I have always observed are bold and treacherous yet the trading people are affable and courteous to Merchants These are in all respects as to their Religion Custom and manner of Living like other Malayans Whether they are governed by a King or Raja or what other manner of Government they live under I know not They have Canoas and Boats of their own and with these they fish and traffick among themselves but the Tin Trade is that which has formerly drawn Merchant Strangers thither But tho the Country might probably yield great quantities of this metal and the Natives are not only inclinable but very desirous to trade with Strangers yet are they now restrained by the Dutch who have monopoliz'd that Trade to themselves It was probably for the lucre of this Trade that the Dutch built the Fort on the Island but this not wholly answering their ends by reason of the distance between it and the Rivers mouth which is about 4 or 5 miles they have also a Guardship commonly lying here and a Sloop with 20 or 30 armed men to hinder other Nations from this Trade For this Tutaneg or Tin is a valuable Commodity in the Bay of Bengal and here purchased reasonably by giving other Commodities in exchange neither is this Commodity peculiarly found hereabouts but farther Northerly also on the Coast and particularly in the Kingdom of Queda there is much of it The Dutch also commonly keep a Guardship and have made some fruitless essays to bring that Prince and his Subjects to trade only with them but here over against P. Dinding no strangers dare approach to trade neither may any Ship
sail and they have thus vanished on a sudden The Fish which they take near the shore with their Nets are Snooks Dog-fish and sometimes Tarpoms The Tarpom is a large scaly Fish shaped much like a Salmon but somewhat flatter 'T is of a dull Silver Colour with Scales as big as a Half Crown A large Tarpom will weigh 25 or 30 Pound 'T is good sweet wholsom Meat and the Flesh solid and firm In its Belly you shall find two large Scalops of Fat weighing two or three Pound each I never knew any taken with Hook and Line but are either with Nets or by striking them with Harpoons at which the Moskito-Men are very expert The Nets for this purpose are made with strong double Twine the Meshes 5 or 6 Inches square For if they are too small so that the Fish be not intangled therein he presently draws himself a little backward and then springs over the Net Yet I have seen them taken in a Sain made with small Meshes in this manner After we have inclosed a great number whilst the two ends of the Net were drawing ashore 10 or 12 naked Men have followed and when a Fish struck against the Net the next Man to it grasped both Net and Fish in his Arms and held all fast till others came to his assistance Besides these we had three Men in a Canoa in which they mov'd side ways after the Net and many of the Fish in springing over the Net would fall into the Canoa And by these means we should take two or 3 at every Draught These Fish are found plentifully all along that shore from Cape Catoch to Trist especially in clear Water near sandy Bays but no where in muddy or rocky Ground They are also about Jamaica and all the Coast of the Main especially near Carthagena West from Rio de la Gartos there is a Look-out or Watch-tower called Selam This is a Place close by the shore contrived by the Spaniards for their Indians to watch in There are many of them on this Coast Some built from the Ground with Timber others only little Cages placed on a Tree big enough for one or two Men to sit in with a Ladder to go up and down These Watch-towers are never without an Indian or two all the day long the Indians who live near any of them being obliged to take their turns About three or four Leagues Westward of Selam is another Watch-Box on a High Tree called Linchanchee Lookout from a large Indian Town of that Name 4 Leagues up in the Country and two Leagues farther within Land is another Town called Chinchanchee I have been ashore at these Look-outs and have been either rowing in a Canoa or walking ashore on all this Coast even from Rio de la Gartos to Cape Condecedo but did never see any Town by the shore nor any Houses besides Fishing-hutts on all the Coast except only at Sisal Between Selam and Linchanchee are many small regular Salt Ponds divided from each other by little Banks the biggest Pond not above 10 Yards long and 6 broad The Inhabitants of these two Towns attend these Ponds in the Months of May June and July to gather the Salt which supplies all the Inland Towns of these Parts and there is a skirt of Wood between the Sea and the Ponds that you can neither see them nor the People at Work till you come ashore From these Salt Ponds further West about three or four Leagues is the Look-out called Sisal This is the highest and most remarkable on all the Coast it stands close by the Sea and it is built with Timber This is the first Object that we make off at Sea and sometimes we take it for a Sail till running nearer we discover the high Mangrove-trees appearing in small Tufts at several Distances from it Not far from hence there is a Fort with 40 or 50 Soldiers to Guard the Coast and from this Place there is a Road through the Country to the City of Merida This is the chiefest City in all the Province of Jucatan it being inhabited mostly with Spaniards Yet there are many Indian Families among them who live in great subjection as do the rest of the Indians of this Country The Province of Jucatan especially this Northern and the most Easterly Part of it is but indifferently fruitful in comparison of that rich Soil farther to the West Yet is it pretty populous of Indians who all live together in Towns but none within five or six Miles of the Sea except as I said at two or three Fishing Places and even there the Indians resort to fish but at certain Seasons of the Year Therefore when Privateers come on this Coast they fear not to Land and ramble about as if they were in their own Country seeking for Game of any sort either Fowl or Deer of both which there are great plenty especially of the latter though sometimes they pay dear for it A small Jamaica Privateer once Landed 6 or 7 Men at this Look-out of Sisal who not suspecting any danger ordered the Canoa with 3 or 4 Men to row along by the shore to take them in upon their giving a sign or firing a Gun But within half an hour they were attack'd by about 40 Spanish Soldiers who had cut them off from the shore to whom they surrendred themselves Prisoners The Spaniards carried them in triumph to the Fort and then demanded which was the Captain Upon this they all stood mute for the Captain was not among them and they were afraid to tell the Spaniards so for fear of being all hanged for Straglers Neither did any one of them dare to assume that Title because they had no Commission with them nor the Copy of it for the Captains don't usually go ashore without a Copy at least of their Commission which is wont to secure both themselves and their Men. At last one John Hullock cock'd up his little cropt Hat and told them that he was the Captain and the Spaniards demanding his Commission he said it was aboard for that he came ashore only to hunt not thinking to have met any Enemy The Spaniards were well satisfied with this Answer and afterwards respected him as the Captain and served him with better Provision and Lodging than the rest and the next day when they were sent to the City of Merida about 12 or 13 Leagues from thence Captain Hullock had a Horse to ride on while the rest went on Foot And though they were all kept in close Prison yet Hullock had the honour to be often sent for to be examined at the Governours House and was frequently Regal'd with Chocolate c. From thence they were carried to Campeachy Town where still Captain Hullock was better served than his Comrades At last I know not how they all got their Liberties and Hullock was ever after call'd Captain Jack It is about 8 Leagues from Sisal to Cape Condecedo Twenty Leagues North of which
lyes a small Island call'd by the Spaniards Isles des Arenas but the English Seamen as is usual with them corrupt the Name strangely and some call it the Desarts others the Desarcusses but of this Island having never seen it I can give no Account All this Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Condecedo is Low-Land the Mount only excepted It is most sandy Bay by the Sea yet some of it is Mangrovy-Land within which you have some spots of dry Savanah and small scrubbed Trees with short thick Bushes among them The Sea deepens gradually from the shore and Ships may Anchor in sandy Ground in any depth from 7 or 8 Foot to 10 or 12 Fathom Water In some Places on this Coast we reckon our distance from the shore by the depth of the Sea allowing 4 Fathom for the first League and for every Fathom afterward a League more But having got thus to Cape Condecedo I shall defer the further description of these Parts from this Cape Southward and Westward to the High-Land of St. Martin which is properly the Bay of Campeachy and from thence also further Westward till my second coming on this Coast when I made so long a stay here To proceed therefore with my prefent Voyage having past Cape Catoch the Mount Rio de la Gartos Sisal and Cape Condecedo we stood Southward directly for Trist the Haven of our Logwood-Cutters at which Place being not above 60 Leagues distant we soon arrived Trist is the Road only for big Ships Smaller Vessels that draw but a little Water run 3 Leagues farther by crossing over a great Lagune that runs from the Island up into the Main-Land where they anchor at a Place called One Bush-Key We stayed at Trist 3 days to fill our Water and then with our 2 Consorts sailed thence with the Tide of Blood and the same Tide arrived there This Key is not above 40 Paces long and 5 or 6 broad having only a little crooked Tree growing on it and for that reason it is called One-Bush-Key It seems to be only a heap of Shells for the Island is covered with them The greatest part are Oyster-shells There are a great many Oyster-banks in this Lagune and the adjacent Creeks but none afford better either for largeness or taste than the Bank about this Island In the wet Season the Oysters as well of One-Bush-Key as other Places here are made fresh by the Freshes running out of the Country But in the dry Time they are salt enough In the Creeks they are smaller but more numerous and the Mangrove-Roots that grow by the sides of the Creeks are loaden with them and so are all the Branches that hang in the Water One-Bush-Key is about a Mile from the shore and just against the Island is a small Creek that runs a Mile farther and then opens into another wide Lagune and through this Creek the Logwood is brought to the Ships riding at the Key Between the Oyster-Banks that lye about the Island and the Main there is good Riding in about 12 Foot Water The bottom is very soft Oaz insomuch that we are forced to shoo our Anchors to make them hold The Main by it is all Low Mangrovy-Land which is over-flow'd every Tide and in the Wet Season is covered with Water Here we lay to take in our Lading Our Cargo to purchase Logwood was Rum and Sugar a very good Commodity for the Logwood-Cutters who were then about 250 Men most English that had settled themselves in several Places hereabouts Neither was it long before we had these Merchants came aboard to visit us we were but 6 Men and a Boy in the Ship and all little enough to entertain them for besides what Rum we sold by the Gallon or Ferkin we sold it made into Punch wherewith they grew Frolicksom We had none but small Arms to fire at their drinking Healths and therefore the noise was not very great at a distance but on Board the Vessels we were loud enough till all our Liquor was spent We took no Money for it nor expected any for Logwood was what we came hither for and we had of that in lieu of our Commodities after the rate of 5 Pound per Tun to be paid at the Place where they cut it and we went with our Long-boat to fetch small Quanties But because it would have taken up a long time to Load our Vessel with our own Boat only we hired a Periago of the Logwood-Cutters to bring it on Board and by that means made the quicker dispatch I made two or three Trips to their Huts where I and those with me were always very kindly entertained by them with Pork and Pease or Beef and Dough-Boys Their Beef they got by hunting in the Savanahs As long as the Liquor lasted which they bought of us we were treated with it either in Drams or Punch But for a more particular Account of the Logwood-Cutters I shall refer the Reader to my second Voyage hither which I made shortly after my return to Jamaica because I saw a great prospect of getting Money here if Men would be but diligent and frugal But let 's proceed with our Voyage It was the latter end of September 1675. when we sailed from One-Bush-Key with the Tide of Ebb and anchored again at Trist that same Tide where we watered our Vessel in order to sail This we accomplished in two Days and the third day sailed from Trist towards Jamaica A Voyage which proved very tedious and hazardous to us by reason of our ships being so sluggish a Sailer that She would not ply to Wind-ward whereby we were necessarily driven upon several Shoals that otherwise we might have avoided and forced to spend 13 Weeks in our Passage is usually accomplished in half that time We had now a Passenger with us one Will. Wooders a Jamaica Seaman that with three others that were taken by the Spaniards was sent to the City of Mexico where they remained Prisoners 6 or 8 Months but at last were remanded to La vera Cruz and from thence by Sea to Campeachy They were not imprisoned but only kept to Work on Board the Ship that brought them and soon found an opportunity to make their escapes in this manner They had been imployed ashore all the day and being sent aboard at Night they fell to contrive how to run away with the Boat but considering that they wanted Necessaries for their Voyage they resolved first to go back and supply themselves which they might then do the better because they knew there were none but a few Indians on Board Accordingly having seized and bound the Indians taking with them a Compass with some Bread and Water they put off to Sea and arrivd at Trist a Week before our departure And this Will. Wooders was the means under God of the Preservation of our Ship The third day after we left Trist about 8 in the Morning near 12 or 14 Leagues W. S. W. from Campeachy
we saw two sail about 3 Leagues to Wind-ward coming directly towards us the Captain supposing that they had been Jamaica Vessels would have layn by to hear some News and to get some Liquor from them for we had now none on Board but a few Bottles in a small Case that the Captain reserved for his own drinking But Wooders withstood the Captains Proposal and told him that when he came from Campeachy there were two small Vessells ready to sail for Tobasco River which is not above 11 or 12 Leagues to Leeward of Trist and that it was more probable these were those two Vessells than any from Jamaica Upon this we edged off more to Sea and they also altered their Course steering away still directly with us so that we were now assured they were Spaniards and therefore we put away Quartering and steering N. W. and though they still fetch'd on us a-pace yet to make the more speed they turned a Boat loose that was Tow at one of their Sterns and she being a good Sailer came within Gun-shot of us when as it pleased God the Land-Wind dyed away of a sudden and the Sea-Breez did not yet spring up While the Wind lasted we thought our selves but a degree from Prisoners neither had we yet great hopes of escaping for our Ketch even when light was but a dull Sailer worse being deep loaden However we had now time to unbend the Foresail and make a studding Sail of it to put right before the Sea-Breez when it should spring up This was accordingly done in a trice and in less than an hour after the Breez sprung up fresh and we put right before the Wind. We had this advantage in it that all the Sail we had did us Service While on the contrary those who chased us being three Mast Vessels could not bring all theirs to draw for their after Sails becalmed their Head-sails and we held them tack for two or three Hours neither gaining nor loosing ground At last the Wind freshing on by the coming of a Tornado we gained considerably of them so they fired a Gun and left their Chace but we kept on crouding till Night and then clap'd on a Wind again and saw no more of them In about a Fortnight after this we were got as far to the East as Rio de la Gartos and there overtook us a small Barmudoes Boat belonging to Jamaica which had not been above 10 Days come from Trist but sailed much better than we did Therefore our Merchant went on Board of Her for he saw we were like to have a long Passage and Provision began to be scarce already which he could not so well brook as we Our Course lay all along against the Trade-Wind All the hopes that we had was a good North this being the only time of the Year for it and soon after we saw a black Cloud in the N. W. which is a sign of a North but of this more in my Discourse of Winds for two Days Morning and Evening The third day it rose a-pace and came away very swiftly We presently provided to receive it by furling all but our Main-sail intending with that to take the advantage of it Yet this did us but little Service for after an Hours time in which it blew fresh at N. W. the Cloud went away and the Wind came about again at E. N. E. the usual Trade in these Parts We therefore made use of the Sea and Land-Breezes as we had done before and being now as high as the before-mentioned Fishing Banks on the North of Jucatan we so ordered our Business that with the Land-Winds we run over to the Banks and while it was calm between the Land-Winds and Sea-Breez we put out our Hooks and Lines and fished and got plenty every Morning One time our Captain after he had hal'd in a good fish being eager at his sport and throwing out his Line too hastily the Hook hitched in the Palm of his Hand and the weight of the Lead that was thrown with a jerk and hung about 6 Foot from the Hook forced the beard quite through that it appear'd at the back of his Hand Soon after this we got as high as the Mount and then stood off about 30 Leagues from Land in hopes to get better to Wind-ward there than near the shore because the Wind was at E. S. E. and S. E. by E. a fresh gale continuing so 2 or 3 days We steered off to the North expecting a Sea-Breez at E. N. E. and the third Day had our desire Then we tack'd and steered in again S. E. for the shore of Jucatan Our Ketch as I said was a heavy Sailer especially on a Wind for she was very short and having great round Bows when we met a Head-Sea as now she plunged and laboured not going a Head but tumbling like an Egg-shell in the Sea It was my fortune to be at the Helm from 6 a Clock in the Evening till 8. The first 2 Glasses she steered very ill for every Sea would strike her dead like a Log then she would fall off 2 or 3 Points from the Wind though the Helm was a-Lee and as she recovered and made a little way she would come again to the Wind till another Sea struck her off again By that time 3 Glasses were out the Sea became more smooth and then she steered very well and made pretty fresh way through the Water I was somewhat surprized at the sudden Change from a rough Sea to a smooth and therefore look'd over Board 2 or 3 times for she steered open on the Deck and it being very fair Weather all our Men were layn down on the Deck and fallen asleep My Captain was just behind me on the Quarter Deck fast asleep too for neither he nor they dreaded any danger we being about 30 Leagues from the Main-Land at Noon and as we thought not near any Island But while I was musing on the sudden alteration of the Sea our Vessel struck on a Rock with such force that the Whipstaff threw me down on my back This frighted me so much that I cryed out and bad them all turn out for the Ship struck The surge that the Ship made on the Rock awakened most of our Men and made them ask What the matter was But her striking a second time soon answered the Question and set us all to work for our Lives By good fortune she did not stick but kept on her way still and to our great comfort the Water was very smooth otherwise we must certainly have been lost for we very plainly saw the ground under us so we let go our Anchor in 2 Fathom Water clean White Sand When our Sails were furled and a sufficient scope of Cable veered out our Captain being yet in amaze went into his Cabin and most of us with him to view his draught and we soon found we were fallen foul of the Alcranes The Alcranes are 5 or 6 low sandy
Islands lying in the Lat. of about 23 d. North and distant from the Coast of Jucatan about 25 Leagues the biggest is not above a Mile or two in Circuit They are distant from one another 2 or 3 Miles not lying in a Line but soattering here and there with good Channels of 20 or 30 Fathom Water for a Ship to pass between All of them have good Anchoring on the West sides where you may ride in what depths you please from 10 to 2 Fathom Water clean sandy Ground On some there are a few low Bushes of Burton-Wood but they are mostly Barren and Sandy bearing nothing but only a little Chicken-Weed neither have they any fresh Water Their Land-Animals are only large Rats which are in great Plenty and of Fowls Boobies in vast abundance with Men of War and Egg-Birds These inhabit only on some of the Northermost of them not promiscuously one among another but each sort within their own Precincts viz. the Boobies and the other two sorts each a-part by themselves and thus two or three of the Islands are wholly taken up The Boobies being most numerous have the greatest portion of Land The Egg-Birds tho' they are many yet being but small take up but little room to the rest Yet in that little part which they inhabit they are sole Masters and not disturbed by their Neighbours All three sorts are very tame especially the Boobies and so thick settled that a Man cannot pass through their Quarters without coming within reach of their Bills with which they continually peck't at us I took notice that they sate in Pairs and therefore at first thought them to be Cock and Hen but upon striking at them one flew away from each place and that which was left behind seemed as malicious as the other that was gone I admired at the boldness of those that did not fly away and used some sort of violence to force them but in vain for indeed these were young Ones and had not yet learned the use of their Wings tho' they were as big and as well feathered as their Dams only their Feathers were something whiter and fresher I took notice that an old one either the Cock or Hen always sat with the Young to secure them for otherwise these Fowls would prey on each other the Strong on the Weak at least those of a different Kind would make bold with their Neighbours The Men-of-War-Birds as well as the Boobies left Guardians to the Young when they went off to Sea lest they should be starved by their Neighbours for there were a great many old and lame Men of War Birds that could not fly off to Sea to seek their own Food These did not inhabit among their Consorts but were either expelled the Community or else chose to lye out at some distance from the rest and that not altogether but scattering here and there where they could rob securest I saw near 20 of them on one of the Islands which sometimes would sally into the Camp to seek for Booty but presently retreated again whether they got any thing or nothing If one of these lame Birds found a Young Booby not guarded it presently gave him a good poult on the back with his Bill to make him disgorge which they will do with one stroak and it may be cast up a Fish or two as big as a Mans Wrist this they swallow in a trice and march off and look out for another Prize The sound Men-of-War will sometimes serve the old Boobies so off at Sea I have seen a Man-of-War fly directly at a Booby and give it one blow which has caused it to cast up a large Fish and the Man of War flying directly down after it has taken it in the Air before it reach'd the Water There are abundance of Fish at some distance from these Islands by which the Fowls inhabiting here are daily supplied The Fish near the Island are Sharks Sword Fishes and Nurses all three sorts delighting to be near sandy Bays those that I saw here were but of a small size the Sword-Fish not above a Foot and a half or two Foot long neither were the Sharks much longer and the Nurses about the same length The Nurse is just like a Shark only its skin is rougher and is used for making the finest Rasps Here are many Seals they come up to sun themselves only on two or three of the Islands I don't know whether exactly of the same kind with those in colder Climates but as I have noted in my former Book they always live where there is plenty of Fish To the North of these Islands lyes a long ledge of Rocks bending like a Bow it seems to be 10 or 12 Yards wide and about 4 Leagues long and 3 Leagues distant from the Island They are above Water all joyning very close to one another except at one or two Places where are small Passages about nine or ten Yards Wide 't was through one of these that Providence directed us in the Night for the next Morning we saw the Riff about half a Mile to the North of us and right against us was a small Gap by which we came in hither but coming to view it more nearly with our Boat we did not dare to venture out that way again One Reason why we would have gone out to the Northward was because from our Main-top we saw the Islands to the Southward of us and being unacquainted knew not whether we might find among them a Channel to pass through our second reason was the hopes of making a better slant in for the shore if we could weather the East end of the Riff In order to this we weighed Anchor keeping down by the side of the Riff till we were at the West end of it which was about a League from where we Anchored then we stood off to the North and there kept plying off and on to Weather the East end of the Riff three Days but not being able to effect it by reason of a strong Current setting to the N. W. we ran back again to the West end of the Riff and steered away for the Islands There we Anchored and lay three or four days and visited most of them and found plenty of such Creatures as I have already described Though here was great store of such good Food and we like to want yet we did neither salt any nor spend of it fresh to save our Stock I found them all but one Man averse to it but I did heartily wish them of another mind because I dreaded wanting before the end of the Voyage a hazard which we needed not to run there being here such plenty of Fowls and Seals especially of the latter that the Spaniards do often come hither to make Oyl of their Fat upon which account it has been visited by English men from Jamaica particularly by Capt. Long who having the command of a small Bark came hither purposely to make Seal-Oyl and
anchored on the North side of one of the sandy Islands the most convenient Place for his design Having got ashore his Cask to put his Oyl in and set up a Tent for lodging himself and his Goods he began to kill the Seal and had not wrought above three or four Days before a fierce North-wind blew his Bark ashore By good fortune she was not damnified but his company being but small and so despairing of setting her afloat again they fell to contriving how to get away a very difficult Task to accomplish for it was 24 or 25 Leagues to the nearest Place of the Main and above 100 Leagues to Trist which was the next English settlement But contrary to their expectation instead of that Captain Long bid them follow their Work of Seal-killing and making Oyl assuring them that he would undertake at his own peril to carry them safe to Trist. This though it went much against the grain yet at last he so far prevailed by fair Words that they were contented to go on with their Seal-killing till they had filled all their Cask But their greatest work was yet to do viz. how they should get over to the Main and then Coast down before the Wind to Trist. Their Boat was not big enough to transport them so they concluded to cut down the Barks Masts and rip up her Deck to make a float for that purpose This being agreed on the next Morning betimes pursuant to their Resolution they were going to break up their Vessel but it happened that very Night that two New-England Ketches going down to Trist ran on the backside of the Riff where they struck on the Rocks and were bulged And Captain Long and his Crew seeing them in Distress presently took their Boat and went off to help them unlade their Goods and bring them ashore and in requital they furnished the Captain with such tackle and other Necessaries as he wanted and assisted him in the launching his Vessel and lading his Oyl and so they went merrily away for Trist This lucky accident was much talk'd of amongst the C's Crew and so exasperated the New-England Men when they heard the whole story that they were thinking if their Commanders would have suffered them to have thrown him into the Sea to prevent his doing more mischief For they were sure that he by his Art had caused them to run aground The whole of this Relation I had from Captain Long himself From the main to these Islands the Sea deepens gradually till you come to about 30 Fathom Water and when you are 25 or 26 Leagues off shore to the Eastward of them if you steer away West keeping in that depth you cannot miss them The same Rule is to be observed to find any other Island as the Triangles the Isles Des Arenas c. for the Bank runs all along the shore on which are Soundings of equal depth and the Sea appears of a muddy palish Colour but when past the Bank on the North side of it it resumes its natural greeness and is too deep for any Sounding till you are within 30 Leagues of the North side of the Bay of Mexico where by relation there is such another Bank abounding with Oysters running all along the shore But to return to our Voyage Having spent 2 or 3 days among the Alcranes Islands we set sail again and steering in Southerly for the Main having the Wind at E. N. E. we fell in with it a little to Leeward of Cape Catoch plying under the shore till we reach'd the Cape from thence we continued our Course Northerly the Wind at E. by S. The next Land we designed for was Cape Antonio which is the Westermost Point of the Island Cuba and distant from Cape Catoch about 40 Leagues Some when they sail out of the Bay keep along by the Land of Jucatan till they come as far as the Island Cozumel and from thence stretch over towards Cuba and if the Wind favours them any thing they will get as high as Cape Corientes before they fall in with Cuba for in their Passage from thence they are not in so much danger of being hurried away to the North by the Current between the two Capes or to the North of them as we were For taking our Course Northward till the Lat. of 22 d. 30 m. we tack'd again and the Wind at E. steered away S. S. E. 24 hours and having taken an Observation of the Sun as we did the day before found our selves in 23 d. being driven backwards in 24 hours 30 Miles We had then the Channel open between the two Capes but to the North of either Yet at last we got over to the Cuba shore and fell in with the North of the Island about 7 or 8 Leagues from Cape Antonio Now we both saw and ran thro' some of the Colorado Sholes but found a very good Channel among a great many Rocks that appeared above Water Being thus got within the Sholes between them and Cuba we found a pretty wide clear Channel and good Anchoring and advancing further within a League of the Cape we Anchored and went ashore to get Water but found none In the Evening when the Land-wind sprung up we weighed again and doubling the Cape coasted along on the South side of the Island taking the Advantages both of Sea and Land-winds For though we had now been about two Months from Trist and this the time of the Year for Norths yet to our great trouble they had hitherto failed us and besides as I said before our Ketch was such a Leewardly Vessel that we did not yet expect we could possibly reach Jamaica meerly by turning though sometimes assisted by Sea and Land-Winds In about a Week after this we got up with and coasted along the Isle of Pines for 7 or 8 Leagues and then stood off to Sea and the third Morning fell in with the West end of grand Caymanes This Island is about 40 Leagues South from Pines and about 15 to the West of little Caymanes we anchored at the West end about half a Mile from the shore We found no Water nor any Provision but saw many Crocodiles on the Bay some of which would scarce stir out of the way for us We kill'd none of them which we might easily have done though Food began to be short withus indeed had it been in the Months of June or July we might probably have gotten Turtle for they frequent this Island some Years as much as they do little Caymanes We stayed here but 3 or 4 hours and steered back for Pines intending there to hunt for Beef or Hog of both which there is in great plenty The second day in the Morning we fell in with the West end of Pines and running about 4 or 5 Miles Northward we anchored in 4 Fathom Water clean Sand about two Mile from the shore and right-against a small Creek through the Mangroves into a wide Lagune The Isle of
Country and its Product with some particulars of the Logwood-Cutters their hunting for Beef and making Hides c. I have in my former Voyage described the Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Cendecedo Therefore I shall now begin where I then left off and following the same Method proceed to give some Account of the Sea-Coast of the Bay of Campeachy being competently qualified for it by many little Excursions that I made from Trist during my abode in these Parts The Bay of Campeachy is a deep bending of the Land contained between Cape Condecedo on the East and a Point shooting forth from the High-Land of St. Martins on the West The distance between these two Places is about 120 Leagues in which are many Large and Navigable Rivers Wide Lagunes c. Of all which I shall treat in their order as also of the Land on the Coast its Soil Product c. Together with some Observations concerning the Trees Plants Vegetables Animals and Natives of the Country From Cape Condecedo to the Salinas is 14 or 15 Leagues the Coast runs in South It is all a Sandy Bay between and the Land also within is dry and sandy producing only some scrubbed Trees Half way between these two Places you may dig in the Sand above High-Water-Mark and find very good fresh Water The Salina is a fine small Harbour for Barks but there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water and close by the Sea a little within the Land there is a large Salt Pond belonging to Campeachy-Town which yields abundance of Salt At the time when the Salt Kerns which is in May or June the Indians of the Country are ordered by the Spaniards to give their attendance to rake it ashore and gather it into a great Pyramidal Heap broad below and sharp at the top like the Ridg of a House then covering it all over with dry Grass and Reeds they set fire to it and this burns the out-side Salt to a hard black Crust The hard Crust is afterwards a defence against the Rains that are now settled in and preserves the Heap dry even in the wettest Season The Indians whose business I have told you is to gather the Salt thus into Heaps wait here by turns all the Kerning Season not less than 40 or 50 Families at a time yet here are no Houses for them to lie in neither do they at all regard it for they are relieved by a fresh supply of Indians every Week and they all sleep in the open Air some on the Ground but most in very poor Hammacks fastned to Trees or Posts stuck into the Ground for that purpose Their Fare is no better than their Lodging for they have no other Food while they are here but Tartilloes and Posole Tartilloes are small Cakes made of the Flower of Indian Corn and Posole is also Indian Corn boiled of which they make their Drink But of this more hereafter when I treat of the Natives and their Manner of Living When the Kerning Season is over the Indians march home to their settled Habitations taking no more care of the Salt But the Spaniards of Campeachy who are Owners of the Ponds do frequently send their Barks hither for Salt to load Ships that lye in Campeachy Road and afterwards transport it to all the Ports in the Bay of Mexico especially to Aluarado and Tompeck two great Fishing Towns and I think that all the Inland Towns thereabouts are supplied with it for I know of no other Salt Ponds on all the Coast besides this and those before-mentioned This Salina Harbour was often visited by the English Logwood-Cutters in their way from Jamaica to Trist. And if they found any Barks here either light or laden they made bold to take and sell both the Ships and the Indian Sailers that belonged to them This they would tell you was by way of reprizal for some former injuries received of the Spaniards though indeed 't was but a pretence for the Governours of Jamaica knew nothing of it neither durst the Spaniards complain for at that time they used to take all the English Ships they met with in these Parts not sparing even such as came laden with Sugar from Jamaica and were bound for England especially if they had Logwood aboard This was done openly for the Ships were carried into the Havanna there sold and the Men imprisoned without any Redress From the Salinas to Campeachy Town is about 20 Leagues the Coast runs S. by W. The first 4 Leagues of it along the Coast is drowned Mangrove-Land yet about two Mile South of the Salina about 200 Yards from the Sea there is a fresh Spring which is visited by all the Indians that pass this way either in Bark or Canoa there being no Water beside near it and there is a small dirty path leads to it thro' the Mangroves after you are past these Mangroves the Coast riseth higher with many sandy Bays where Boats may conveniently land but no fresh Water till you come to a River near Campeachy Town The Land further along the Coast is partly Mangrovy but most of it dry Ground and not very fruitful producing only a few scrubed Bushes And there is no Logwood growing on all this Coast even from Cape Catoch to Campeachy Town About six Leagues before you come to Campeachy there is a small Hill called Hina where Privateers do commonly Anchor and keep Sentinels on the Hill to look out for Ships bound to the Town There is plenty of good Fire-wood but no Water and in the surf of the Sea close by the shore you find abundance of Shell-fish called by the English Horse-hoofs because the under part or belly of the Fish is flat and somewhat resembling that Figure in Shape and Magnitude but the back is round like a Turtles the Shell is thin and brittle like a Lobsters with many small Claws and by report they are very good Meat but I never tasted any of them my self There are three small low sandy Islands about 25 or 26 Leagues from Hina bearing North from it and 30 Leagues from Campeachy On the South side of these Islands there is good Anchorage but neither Wood nor Water And as for Animals we saw none but only great numbers of large Rats and plenty of Boobies and Men-of-War-Birds These Islands are call'd the Triangles from the Figure they make in their Position There are no other at any distance from the shore but these and the Alcranies mentioned in the former Chapter in all this Coast that I have seen From Hina to Campeachy as I said before is about 6 Leagues Campeachy is a fair Town standing on the shore in a small bending of the Land and is the only Town on all this Coast even from Cape Catoch to La Vera Cruz that stands open to the Sea It makes a fine shew being built all with good Stone The Houses are not high but the Walls very strong the Roofs flatish after the Spanish Fashion and
with their Wings They don't swallow the Fish whole as all other fishing Fowls that ever I saw do but tear it with their Bills and eat it Piece-Meal The Lagunes Creeks and Rivers are plentifully stored with great variety of Fish viz. Mullets Snooks Tenpounders Tarpoms Cavallies Parricootas Garr-fish Stingrays Spanish Mackril with many others Tenpounders are shaped like Mullets but are so full of very small stiff Bones intermixt with the Flesh that you can hardly eat them Parricootas are long Fish with round Bodies like Mackril They have very long Mouths and sharp Teeth they are about 8 or 10 Inches round and three Foot and half long They commonly haunt in Lagunes among Islands or in the Sea near the shore They are a floating Fish and greedily take the Hook and will snap at Men too in the Water We commonly take them when we are under sail with a Hook towing after our Stern They are firm well-tasted Fish but 't is dangerous eating them for some Men have been poisoned with them Divers Persons are of Opinion that these Creatures are poysonous in some Places only and that but at some times of the Year I know that in many Parts of the West-Indies some have been injured by eating them and that at different Seasons of the Year therefore Seamen commonly taste the Liver before they venture any further and if that has a biting taste like Pepper they esteem the fish unwholsom but if not they eat it and yet I have found even this Rule fail too I judge the Head and the Parts near it to be chiefly venomous Garr-fish are round but neither so big nor long as the former but what is more peculiar they have long bony Snouts like the Sword-fish only as the Sword-fishes Snout is flat and indented like a Saw on each side so on the contrary these have their Snouts like a spear round smooth and sharp at the end and about a foot long These are a sort of floaty or Flying Fish for they skip along a Foot or two above the Water for the length of twenty or thirty Yards then they just touch the edge of the Water and spring forward so much farther and then touch the Water and spring forward again a great many times before they cease They dart themselves with such a force that they strike their Snout through the sides of a Cotton-Tree Canoa and we often fear that they will strike quite through our very Bodies They are extraordinary sweet Fish Spanish Mackril are in shape and colour like our Mackril but larger They are three Foot or three and half long and nine or ten Inches about and they also are generally esteeemed very excellent Fish The Ray is a flat Fish like Skate and I have seen three sorts of them viz. the Stingray the Raspray and the Whipray The Stingray and Raspray are much alike in shape but the former has three or four strong sharp Prickles near two Inches long at the Root of its Tail which are said to be very venomous but the rest of his Skin is smooth The Raspray has a rough knotty Skin wherewith Rasps are made the Skins of the largest are so rough that the Spaniards in some Places grate their Cassavy with them which is a Root very common all over the West Indies and of which the Spaniards and English frequently make their Bread but the fairest Skins are useds to cover Surgeons Instrument Cases and other uch fine Things but of late they are counterfeited I have been told that in Turkey Asses Skins are stamped with small hard Seeds which gives them Impressions like Raspray The Whipray differs from the other two sorts having a small but longer Tail and ending with a Knob shaped like a Harpoon All these three sorts are much about a Foot and half broad There is yet another sort of these flat Fish of the Whipray kind but of a prodigious bigness viz. three or four Yards square and their Tails as long these we call Sea-Devils they are very strong Fish and are sometimes Gamesom but they make an odd Figure when they leap out of the Water tumbling over and over Neither are Turtle and Manatee wanting in this Lagune Here are some Hawks-bill-Turtle but the green Turtle is most plentiful They are of a middle size yet here was once a very large one taken as I have mentioned in my Voyages round the World Here are abundance of Manatee which are both large and sweet Alligators are also in great numbers in all the Creeks Rivers and Lagunes in the Bay of Campeachy and I think that no part of the Universe is better stock'd with them The Alligator is a Creature so well known every where that I should not describe it were it not to give an Account of the difference between it and the Crocodile for they resemble each other so nearly in their shape and bulk as also in their Natures that the yare generally mistaken for the same Species only the one supposed to be the Male the other the Female Whether they are so or not the World may judge by the following Observations As to their bulk and length I never saw any so large as some I have heard and read of but according to my best Judgment though I have seen Thousands I never met with any above sixteen or seventeen Foot long and as thick as a large Colt He is shaped like a Lizard of a dark-brown colour with a large head and very long Jaws with great strong Teeth especially two of a Remarkable Length that grow out of and at the very end of the under Jaw in the smallest part on each side one there are two holes in the upper Jaw to receive these otherways he could not shut his Mouth It has 4 short Legs and Broad Claws with a long Tail The Head Back and Tail is fenced with pretty hard Scales joyned together with a very thick tough Skin Over its Eyes there are two hard scally Knobs as big as a Mans Fist and from the Head to the Tail along the Ridge of his Back 't is full of such knotty hard Scales not like Fish-Scales which are loose but so united to the Skin that it is all one with it and can't be taken asunder but with a sharp Knife From the Ridge of the Back down on the Ribs towards the Belly which is of a dusky yellow colour like a Frog there are many of these Scales but not so substantial nor so thick placed as the other These Scales are no hindrance to him in turning for he will turn very quick considering his length When he goes on Land his Tail drags on the Ground The Flesh smells very strong of Musk especially four Kernels or Cods that are always found about them two of which grow in the Groin near each Thigh the other two at the Breast one under each fore Leg and about the bigness of a Pullets Egg therefore when we kill an Alligator we take out these and having
dried them wear them in our Hats for a perfume The Flesh is seldom eaten but in case of Necessity because of its strong scent Now the Crocodile hath none of these Kernels neither doth his Flesh taste at all Musky therefore esteemed better Food He is of a yellow colour neither hath he such long Teeth in his under Jaw The Crocodile's Legs also are longer and when it runs on Land it bears its Tail above the Ground and turns up the tip of it in a round bow and the Knots on the back are much thicker higher and firmer than those of the Alligator And differ also as to the Places where they are found For in some Parts as here in the Bay of Campeachy are abundance of Alligators where yet I never saw nor heard of any Crocodiles At the Isle Grand Caymanes there are Crocodiles but no Alligators At Pines by Cuba there are abundance of Crocodiles but I cannot say there are no Alligators tho' I never saw any there Both Kinds are called Caymanes by the Spaniards therefore probably they may reckon them for the same And I know of no other difference for they both lay Eggs alike which are not distinguishable to the Eye They are as big as a Goose-Egg but much longer and good Meat yet the Alligators Eggs taste very musky They prey both alike in either Element for they love Flesh as well as Fish and will live in either fresh or salt Water Beside these Creatures I know none that can live any where or upon any sort of Food like them 'T is reported that they love Dogs Flesh better than any other Flesh whatsoever This I have seen with my own Eyes that our Dogs were so much afraid of them that they would not very willingly drink at any great River or Creek where those Creatures might lurk and hide themselves unless they were through Necessity constrained to it and then they would stand five or six Foot from the brink of the Creek or River and bark a considerable time before they would Adventure nearer and then even at the sight of their own Shadows in the Water they would again retire to the Place from whence they came and bark vehemently a long time so that in the dry Season when there was no fresh Water but in Ponds and Creeks we used to fetch it our selves and give it our Dogs and many times in our Hunting when we came to a large Creek that we were to pass through our Dogs would not follow us so that we often took them in our Arms and carried them over Besides the fore-mentioned difference between the Alligator and Crocodile the latter is accounted more fierce and daring than the Alligator Therefore when we go to the Isles of Pines or Grand Caymanes to hunt we are often molested by them especially in the Night But in the Bay of Campeachy where there are only Alligators I did never know any Mischief done by them except by accident Men run themselves into their Jaws I remember one Instance of this Nature which is as follows In the very height of the dry time seven or eight Men English and Irish went to a Place called Pies Pond on Beef-Island to hunt This Pond was never dry so that the Cattle drew hither in swarms but after two or three days hunting they were shy and would not come to the Pong till Night and then if an Army of Men had lain to oppose them they would not have been debarr'd of Water The Hunters knowing their Custom lay still all Day and in the Night visited this Pond and killed as many Beefs as they could This Trade they had driven a Week and made great profit At length an Irish-man going to the Pond in the Night stumbled over an Alligator that lay in the Path The Alligator seized him by the Knee at which the Man cries out Help help His Consorts not knowing what the matter was ran all away from their Huts supposing that he was fallen into the clutches of some Spaniards of whom they were afraid every dry Season But poor Daniel not finding any assistance waited till the Beast opened his Jaw to take better hold because it is usual for the Alligator to do so and then snatch'd away his Knee and slipt the But-end of his Gun in the room of it which the Alligator griped so hard that he pull'd it out of his Hand and so went away The Man being near a small Tree climb'd up out of his reach and then cryed out to his Consorts to come and assist him who being still within Call and watching to hear the Issue of the Alarum made haste to him with Fire-brands in their Hands and brought him away in their Arms to his Hut for he was in a deplorable condition and not able to stand on his Feet his Knee was so torn with the Alligators Teeth His Gun was found the next day ten or twelve Paces from the Place where he was seized with two large Holes made in the But-end of it one on each side near an Inch deep for I saw the Gun afterwards This spoiled their sport for a time they being forc'd to carry the Man to the Island Trist where their Ships were which was six or seven Leagues distant This Irish-man went afterwards to New-England to be cured in a Ship belonging to Boston and nine or ten Months after returned to the Bay again being recovered of his wound but went limping ever after This was all the mischief that ever I heard was done in the Bay of Campeachy by the Creatures call'd Alligators CHAP. III. Logwood Mens way of Living Their Hunting for Beefs in Canoas Alligators The Author 's setling with Logwood-Men He is lost in Hunting Captain Hall and his Mens disaster The way of preserving Bullocks Hides Two hairy Worms growing in the Author 's Leg. Dangerous Leg-worms in the West Indies The Author strangely cured of one A violent Storm A Description of Beef-Island Its Fruits and Animals The Spaniards way of hocksing Cattle Their care of preserving their Cattle The wasteful destruction made of them by the English and French Privateers The Author 's narrow Escape from an Alligator THE Logwood-Cutters as I said before inhabit the Creeks of the East and West Lagunes in small Companies building their Huts close by the Creeks sides for the benefit of the Sea-Breezes as near the Logwood Groves as they can removing often to be near their Business Yet when they are settled in a good open Place they chuse rather to go half a Mile in their Canoas to Work than lose that convenience Tho' they build their Huts but slightly yet they take care to thatch them very well with Palm or Palmeto Leaves to prevent the Rains which are there very violent from soaking in For their Bedding they raise a Barbicue or wooden Frame 3 Foot and half above Ground on one side of the House and stick up four Stakes at each corner one to fasten their Pavillions out
care for Victuals till they come Home again This is called Posole And by the English Poorsoul It is so much esteemed by the Indians that they are never without some of it in their Houses Another way of Preparing their Drink is to parch the Maiz and then grind it to Powder on the Rubbing-stone putting a little Anatta to it which grows in their Plantations and is used by them for no other purpose They mix it all with Water and presently drink it off without straining In long Journeys they prefer this Drink before Posole They feed abundance of Turkies Ducks and Dunghill Fowls of which the Padre has an exact Account and is very strict in gathering his Tithe and they dare not kill any except they have his Leave for it They plant Cotton also for their Cloathing The Men wear only a short Jacket and Breeches These with a Palmeto Leaf Hat is their Sundays Dress for they have neither Stockings nor Shoes neither do they wear these Jackets on Week Days The Women have a Cotton-Peticoat and a large Frock down to their Knees the Sleeves to their Wrists but not gathered The Bosom is open to the Breast and Imbroidered with black or red Silk or Grogram Yarn two Inches broad on each side the Breast and clear round the Neck In this Garb with their Hair ty'd up in a Knot behind they think themselves extream fine The Men are obliged by the Padres as I have been inform'd to Marry when they are Fourteen Years old and the Women when Twelve And if at that Age they are not provided the Priest will chuse a Virgin for the Man or a Man for the Virgin of equal Birth and Fortune and joyn them together The Spaniards give several Reasons for this Imposition Viz. That it preserves them from Debauchery and makes them Industrious That it brings them to pay Taxes both to the King and Church for as soon as they are Married they pay to both And that it keeps them from rambling out of their own Parish and settling in another which would by so much lessen the Padres Profit They love each other very well and live comfortably by the sweat of their Brows They build good large Houses and inhabit altogether in Towns The side Walls are Mud or Watling plaister'd on the inside and thatch'd with Palm or Palmeto Leaves The Churches are large built much higher than the Common Houses and covered with Pantile and within adorned with Coarse Pictures and Images of Saints which are all painted tauny like the Indians themselves Besides these Ornaments there are kept in the Churches Pipes Hautboys Drums Vizards and Perruques for their Recreation at solemn Times for they have little or no Sport or Pastime but in Common and that only upon Saints Days and the Nights ensuing The Padres that serve here must learn the Indian Language before they can have a Benefice As for their Tithes and other Incoms Mr. Gage an English Man hath given a large Account of them in his Survey of the West Indies But however this I will add of my own knowledge that they are very dutiful to their Priests observing punctually their Orders and behave themselves very circumspectly and reverently in their Presence They are generally well shaped of a middle size streight and clean Limb'd The Men more spare the Women plump and fat their Faces are round and flat their Foreheads low their Eyes little their Noses of a mid'dle size somewhat flattish full Lips pretty full but little Mouths white Teeth and their Colour of a dark tauny like other Indians They sleep in Hammacks made with small Cords like a Net fastned at each end to a Post. Their Furniture is but mean Viz. Earthen Pots to boil their Maiz in and abundance of Callabashes They are a very harmless sort of People kind to any Strangers and even to the Spaniards by whom they are so much kept under that they are worse than Slaves nay the very Negroes will domineer over them and are countenanced to do so by the Spaniards This makes them very melancholly and thoughtful however they are very quiet and seem contented with their Condition if they can tolerably subsist But sometimes when they are imposed on beyond their Ability they will march off whole Towns Men Women and Children together as is before related CHAP. VI. The River of Checapeque The River of Dos Boccas The Towns up the Country Halpo Their Trade Old Hats a good Commodity A sad Accident in Hunting Tondelo River Musketos troublesom on this Coast. Guasickwalp River Teguantapeque River Few Gold Mines on all this part of the Sea-Coast Teguantapeque Town Keyhooca and its Cacao-Trade Vinellos Alvarado River and its Branches It s Fort Town and Trade Cod Pepper La Vera Cruz. The Fort of St. John d'Ulloa The Barra la Venta Fleet and their Navigation about the West India Coast. The Town of Tispo Panuk River and Town Lagune and Town of Tompeque Huniago Island It s Trade in Shrimps The Author's return to Logwood-Cutting at Trist. Captain Gibbs kill'd there by some Indians he brought from New-England The Author 's setting out to Jamaica and return for England HAving given the Reader an Account of the Indians inhabiting about the River of Tobasco I come next to describe the Western Coast of this Bay with its Rivers and other most remarkable Particulars From Tobasco River to the River Checapeque is 7 Leagues The Coast lies East and West all woody low Ground sandy Bay and good Anchoring but there falls in a pretty high Sea on the shore therefore but bad Landing yet Canoas may with care run in if the Men are ready to leap out as soon as she touches the Ground and then she must immediately be drag'd up out of the Surf And the same caution and dexterity is to be used when they go off again There is no fresh Water between Tobasco River and Checapeque This latter is rather a salt Creek than a River for the Mouth of it is not above 20 Paces wide and about 8 or 9 Foot Water on the Bar but within there is 12 or 13 Foot at low Water and good Riding for Barks half a Mile within the Mouth This Creek runs in E. S. E. about two Miles and then strikes away South up into the Country At its Mouth between it and the Sea is a bare sandy Point of Land Where on the side next the River close by the Brink of it and no where else you may scrape up the Sand which is course and brown with your Hands and get fresh Water but if you dig lower the Water will be salt Half a Mile within the Mouth when you are past the sandy Point the Land is wet and swampy bearing only Mangroves on each side for 4 or 5 Leagues up and after that firm Land where you will find a Run of fresh Water it being all salt till you come thither A League beyond this is a Beef Estantion or Farm
of Cattle belonging to an Indian Village In the Woods on each side this River there are plenty of Guanoes Land-Turtle and abundance of Quams and Corresos with some Parrots and there is no Settlement nearer than the Beef Estantion nor any thing else remarkable in this River that I know A League West from Checapeque there is another small River called Dos Boccas 't is only fit for Canoas to enter It has a Bar at its Mouth and therefore is somewhat dangerous Yet the Privateers make light of it for they will govern a Canoa very ingeniously However Captain Rives and Captain Hewet two Privateers lost several Men here in coming out for there had been a North which had raised the Bar and in going out most of their Canoas were over-set and some Men drowned This River wlll not float a Canoa above a League within its Mouth and so far is salt but there you meet with a fine clear Stream of fresh Water about a League up in the Country and beyond this are fair Savannahs of long Grass fenced in with Ridges of as rich Land as any in the World The Mold such as is formerly described all plain and level even to the Hills of Chiapo There are no Indian Towns within 4 or 5 Leagues of the Sea but further off they are pretty thick lying within a League 2 or 3 one of another Halpo is the chiefest The Indians make use of no more Land than serves to maintain their Families in Maiz and to pay their Taxes And therefore between the Towns it lies uncultivated In all this Country they rear abundance of Poultry Viz. Turkies Ducks and Dunghil Fowls but some of them have Cacao-Walks The Cacao of these Parts is most of it sent to Villa de Mose and ship'd off there Some of it is sold to Carriers that travail with Mules coming hither commonly in Nov. or Dec. and staying till Febr. or March They lye a Fortnight at a time in a Village to dispose of their Goods which are commonly Hatchets Macheats Axes Hoes Knives Cizars Needles Thread Silk for sowing Womens Frocks small Looking-glasses Beads Silver or Copper Rings wash'd with Gold set with Glass instead of Stones small Pictures of Saints and such like Toys for the Indians And for the Spaniards Linnen and Woollen Cloaths Silks Stockings and old Hats new dress'd which are here very valuable and worn by those of the best Quality so that an old English Beaver thus ordered would be worth 20 Dollars so much is Trade wanted here in this Country When he has sold off his Goods he is generally paid in Cacao which he carries to La Vera Cruz. From Dos Boccas to the River Palmas is 4 Leagues low Land and sandy Bay between From Palmas to the Halover is 2 Leagues The Halover is a small Neck of Land parting the Sea from a large Lagune It is so call'd by the Privateers because they use to drag their Canoas in and out there From the Halover to St. Anns is 6 Leagues St. Anns is a Mouth that opens the Lagune before mentioned there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water yet Barks often go in there to Careen From St. Anns to Tondelo is 5 Leagues The Coast still West the Land low and sandy Bay against the Sea a little within which are pretty high Sand-Banks cloathed with prickly Bushes such as I have already described at Beef-Island Against the Sea near the West end within the Sand Bank the Land is lower again the Woods not very high and some spots of Savannahs with plenty of fat Bullocks In Hunting of which a Frenchman unhappily lost his Life For his Company being stragled from him to find Game he unluckily met a Drove of Cattle flying from them in the Woods which were so thick that there was no passing but in these very narrow Paths that the Cattle themselves had made so that not being able to get out of their way the foremost of the Drove thrust his Horns into his Back and carried him a 100 Paces into the Savannah where he fell down with his Guts trailing on the Ground The River Tondeloe is but narrow yet capable to receive Barks of 50 or 60 Tuns there is a Bar at the Entrance and the Channel crooked On the West side of the Bar there is a spit of Sand shoots out therefore to avoid it at your coming in you must keep the East side aboard but when once entred you may run up for two or three Leagues on the East side a quarter of a Mile within the Mouth you may lie secure but all this Coast and especially this River intolerably swarms with Musketoes that there is no sleeping for them About 4 or 5 Leagues from the Mouth this River is fordable and there the Road crosses it where two French Canoas that lay in this River intercepted the Caravan of Mules laden with Cacao that was returning to La Vera Cruz taking away as much as they could carry with them From Tondeloe River to the River of Guasickwalp is 8 Leagues more the Coast still West all along sandy Bay and sand-Hills as between St. Anns and Tondeloe only towards the West part the Bank is lower and the Trees higher This is one of the Principal Rivers of this Coast 't is not half the breadth of the Tobasco River but deeper It s Bar is less dangerous than any on this Coast having 14 foot Water on it and but little Sea Within the Bar there is much more and soft Oasie ground The Banks on both sides are low The East side is woody and the West side Savannah Here are some Cattle but since it has been frequented by Privateers the Spaniards have driven most of their Bullocks from hence farther into the Country This River hath its rise near the South Sea and is Navigable a great way into Land especially with Boats or small Barks The River Teguantapeque that falls into the South Seas hath its Origine near the Head of Guasickwalp and it is reported that the first Naval Stores for the Manila Ships were sent through the Country from the North to the South Seas by the conveniency of these two Rivers whose Heads are not above 10 or 12 Leagues asunder I heard this discoursed by the Privateers long before I visited the South Seas and they seemed sometimes minded to try their Fortunes this way supposing as many do still that the South Sea shore is nothing but Gold and Silver But how grosly they are mistaken I have satisfied the World already And for this part of the Country though it is rich in Land yet it has not the least appearance of any Mine neither is it thick inhabited with Spaniards And if I am not deceived the very Indians in the heart of the Country are scarce their Friends The Town of note on the S. Sea is Teguantapeque and on the N. Seas Keyhooca is the chiefest near this River Besides these two the Country is only inhabited by Indians
in danger to be over-set by them or at least lose Masts or Yards or have the Sails split besides the Consternation that all Men must needs be in at such a time especially if the Ship by any unforeseen accident should prove unruly as by the mistake of the Man at Helm or he that Conns or by her broaching too against all endeavours which often happens when a fierce gust comes which though it does not last long yet would do much damage in a short time and tho' all things should fall out well yet the benefit of it would not compensate the danger For 't is much if a Ship sails a Mile before either the VVind dyes wholly away or at least shifts about again to the South Nor are we sure that these VVinds will continue 3 Minutes before they shift and sometimes they fly round faster than the Ship will tho' the Helm lies for it and all Seamen know the danger of being taken a back in such VVeather But what has been spoken of the Southerly VVinds Calms and Tornadoes is to be understood of the East side of the Atlantick to as far VVest as the Longitude of 359 d. or thereabouts for farther VVesterly we find the VVinds commonly at S. E. even in crossing the Line and a very brisk gale 't is for that reason our experienced Guinea Commanders do keep to the Southward of the Line till they are about that Longitude Some run over nearer the American Shore before they cross the Line Our East India Commanders do also cross the Line coming from India near the American Coast and find brisk Gales at S. E. all the times of the Year but going to the Indies they steer away South from the Island St. Jago where they commonly VVater and meet the Winds in that Longitude But of this enough The Winds near the Line in the Indian Ocean and South Sea are different from this yet there the Winds are also Southerly and therefore different from what they are farther off for 2 d. or 3 d. on each side the Line the Winds are commonly very uncertain and oftentimes there are perfect Calms or at least very small Winds and some Tornadoes in the East Indian Sea In the South Seas near and under the Line the Winds are at South 130 Leagues off from the Shoar but how farther off I know not there the Winds are but small yet constant and the Weather clear from March till September but about Christmas there are Tornadoes yet in both the East Indian Sea and the South Sea the VVinds near or under the Line are often at South yet these Winds do not blow above 2 or 3 d. to the North or South of the Line except near some Land but in the Atlantick Sea as I have said before the South and South West Winds do sometimes blow even to 10 or 12 d. North of the Line And for the South Winds to blow constantly near the Line in the Atlantick between Cape Verd in Africa and C. Blunco in Brazil is no wonderful thing if a Man will but consider those Promontories that shoot out from the Continents on each side the Sea one on the North the other on the South side of the Equafor leaving but a small space clear for the VVinds to blow in where there is always a pretty brisk Gale especially on the American side And as within 2 or 3 d. of the Equator it is most subject to Calms and Tornadoes and small faint Breezes in other Seas not pend up as this is So this Sea except just in the very opening between both Promontories is much more subject to it than any other especially on the East side that is from the Bite or the Inland corner of the Coast of Guinea to 28 or 30 d. distance VVest But this seems not to be altogether the effects of the Line but owing partly to the nearness of the Land to the Line which shoots out from the Bite of Guinea even to Cape St. Anns almost in a parrallel with the Equator allowing for the Bays a bendings and this is 23 or 24 d. of Longitude and not above 80 Leagues from the Line in some Places So that this part of the Sea between the Coast of Guinea and the Line or 2 d. South of it lying as it were between the Land and the Line is seldom free from bad VVeather especially from April to September but when the Sun is withdrawn towards the Tropick of Capricorn then there is something better VVeather there And in the Sea under the Line between the African Promontory and the American it is freer from Tornadoes and Calms and more subject to fair VVeather and fresh Breezes Therefore both our English and Dutch East India Ships when outward-bound endeavour to Cross the Line as near as they can in the mid Channel between both Promontories and although they meet the VVinds sometimes at S. S. E. or at S. S. W. or farther Easterly or Westerly yet will they not run above a degree to the East or a degree to the West of the mid Channel before they tack again for fear of meeting with the soaking Current on the West or Calms on the East side either of which would be alike prejudicial to their Course The Portuguise in their Voyages to Brazil take the same method and get to the South of the Line before they fall in with the Land for fear of falling to leward of Cape St. Augustine for there are so many things which make that a difficult Cape to pass that hardly any Man would try to do it but at a distance But our Guinea Ships do generally pass on to their Ports on the Coast of Guinea at any time of the Year without using such methods because their Business lyes mostly on the North of the Line where they always find a fair Westerly Wind. But in their returns from thence they cross the Line and run 3 or 4 d. to the Southward of it where they meet the Wind between the S. S. E. and the S. S. W. and a brisk gale with this Wind they run away in the same parrallel 35 or 36 d. before they cross the Line again to the Northward which is about mid-way between the Extreams of both Promontories there they find a brisk gale which carries them to the West Indies or where they please Some run West 40 d. before they cross the Line and find strong Gales whereas should they come from Old Callabar or any other Place in the Bite on the North of the Line and steer away West thinking to gain their Passage the sooner because it is the nearest way they would doubtless be mistaken as many Men have been For if they keep near the Line they meet with great Calms and if they keep near the Land they meet with Westerly Winds and if they keep in the middle between both they must of necessity meet with both Inconveniencies as also with Tornadoes especially in May June July and
the Line in the Months of April and September but near the Line as a degree or two on each side the Winds are not so constant Indeed there they are so very uncertain that I cannot be particular so as to give any true Account of them Only this I know that Calms are very frequent there as also Tornadoes and sudden Gusts in which the Winds fly in a moment quite round the Compass CHAP. IV. Of Sea and Land-Breezes How Sea-Breezes differ from Common Trade-Winds The time and manner of their Rise And particularly at Jamaica Of the Land-Breezes The time and manner of their Rise As on the Isthmus of Darien and at Jamaica The places where these Winds blow strongest or slackest as at Gapes and Head Lands deep Bays Lagunes and Islands Seals-Skin Bladders used instead of Bark Loggs SEA-Breezes generally speaking are no other than the Common Trade-Wind of the Coasts on which they blow with this difference that whereas all Trade-Winds whether they are those that I call the general Trade-Winds at Sea or coasting Trade-Winds either constant or shifting do blow as well by Night as by Day with an equal briskness except when Tornadoes happen So contrarily Sea-Winds are only in the Day and cease in the Night and as all Trade-Winds blow constantly near to one Point of the Compass both where the constant Trade-Winds are or where they shift on the contrary these Sea-Winds do differ from them in this that in the Morning when they first spring up they blow commonly as the Trade-Winds on the Coast do at or near the same Point of the Compass but about Mid-Day they fly off 2 3 or 4 Points further from the Land and so blow almost right in on the Coast especially in fair Weather for then the Sea-Breezes are truest as for instance on the Coast of Angola the Land lies almost North and South there the Trade-Wind is from the S. S. W. to the S. W. the true Sea Breezes near the shore are at W. by S. or W. S. W. and so of any other Coast. These Sea-Breezes do commonly rise in the Morning about Nine a Clock sometimes sooner sometimes later they first approach the shore so gently as if they were afraid to come near it and oft-times they make some faint breathings and as if not willing to offend they make a halt and seem ready to retire I have waited many a time both ashore to receive the pleasure and at Sea to take the benefit of it It comes in a fine small black Curle upon the Water whenas all the Sea between it and the shore not yet reach'd by it is as smooth and even as Glass in Comparison in half an Hour's time after it has reached the shore it fans pretty briskly and so increaseth gradually till 12 a Clock then it is commonly strongest and lasts so till 2 or 3 a very brisk gale about 12 at Noon it also veres off to Sea 2 or 3 Points or more in very fair Weather After 3 a Clock it begins to dye away again and gradually withdraws its force till all is spent and about 5 a Clock sooner or later according as the Weather is it is lull'd asleep and comes no more till the next Morning These Winds are as constantly expected as the day in their proper Latitudes and seldom fail but in the wet Season On all Coasts of the main whether in the East or West Indies or Guinea they rise in the Morning and withdraw towards the Evening yet Capes and Head Lands have the greatest benefit of them where they are highest rise earlier and blow later Bays contrarily have the disadvantage for there they blow but faintly at best and their continuance is but short Islands that lye nearest East and West have the benefit of these Winds on both sides equally for if the Wind is at S. W. or S. W. by S. on the South side of any Island then on the North side it would be at N. W. or N. W. by N. i. e. in fair Weather but if turbulent Weather it would be E. S. E. on the Southside and E. N. E. on the other But this true Sea-Breeze does not veer so far out except only near the shore as about 3 or 4. Leagues distant for farther than that you will find only the right Coasting Trade-Wind This I have experienced in several Parts of the World particularly at Jamaica about which I have made many Voyages both on the North and the South side where I have experienced the Sea-Breezes very much to differ for on the South side I have found the true Sea-Wind after 12 a Clock and in very fair Weather at S. or S. S. E. though it sprung up in the Morning at E. S. E. or S. E. And on the North side I have found the Sea-Breez at N. or N. N. E. though it rose in the Morning at E. N. E. but whether there may be the like difference about smaller Islands as at Barbadoes c. I cannot determine tho' I am apt to believe there is not So much for the Sea-Winds next of the Land-Breezes Land-Breezes are as remarkable as any Winds that I have yet treated of they are quite contrary to the Sea-Breezes for those blow right from the shore but the Sea-Breez right in upon the shore And as the Sea-Breezes do blow in the Day and rest in the Night so on the contrary these do blow in the Night and rest in the Day and so they do alternately succeed each other For when the Sea-Breezes have performed their Offices of the Day by breathing on their respective Coasts they in the Evening do either withdraw from the Coast or lye down to rest Then the Land-Winds whose Office it is to breathe in the Night moved by the same order of Divine Impulse do rouze out of their private recesses and gently fan the Air till the next Morning and then their task ends and they leave the Stage There can be no proper time set when they do begin in the Evening or when they retire in the Morning for they do not keep to an hour but they commonly spring up between 6 and 12 in the Evening and last till 6 8 or 10 in the Morning They both come and go away again earlier or later according to the Weather the Season of the Year or some accidental Cause from the Land For on some Coasts they do rise earlier blow fresher and remain later than on other Coasts as I shall shew hereafter They are called Land-Winds because they blow off shore contrary to the Sea-Breez which way soever the Coast lies Yet I would not so be understood as if these Winds are only found to breathe near the shores of any Land and not in the Inland Parts of such Countries remote from the Sea for in my Travells I have found them in the very heart of the Countries that I have passed through as particularly on the Isthmus of Darien and the Island of Jamaica Both
of Hispaniola or Jamaica troubled with these fierce VVinds any nearer than half Channel over as was said before It has not been my fortune to have been on this Coast when these VVinds have blown yet I have had the Relation of it so often and from so many Persons that I am very well satisfied of the truth of it Nay it is so generally known among the Jamaica Seamen and Privateers that they call a Talkative Person in derision a Carthagena-Breeze I remember 2 or 3 Men that went by that Name and I knew them by no other tho' I was in the same Ship with them several Months Some of our English Frigots that have been sent to Jamaica have experienced these Breezes when the Governour has sent them upon business to that Coast For plying between Portobello and Carthagena when they have been within 10 Leagues of Carthagena they have met with the Sea Breez so strong that they have been forced to riff their Topsail which even then they could not maintain but have been obliged to furle it quite up and so with only their lower Sails which sometimes they have been forced to riff too have been beating 8 or 10 Days to get only so many Leagues which tho' at last they have done yet has it been with much trouble and not without damage to their Sails and Rigging Neither can I forget a Squadron of French Frigots Commanded by the Count de Estrees that came to Jamaica and demanded leave of the Governour to VVood and VVater there which because it seemed strange that they should want in coming only from Petit Guavas it was demanded of them why they came from thence so ill provided They said they went from Petit Guavas over to the Coast of Carthagena with a design to have plyed to VVind-ward under that shore but met the Breezes so hard on the Coast that they were not able to hold up their sides against it and for that Reason stood back again towards Petit Guavas but not being able to setch it therefore they came to VVood and VVater at Jamaica designing to go from thence thro' the Gulph And tho' the Pilots of Jamaica did all conclude that the Breezetime was past by more than a Month yet the Governour gave them leave to VVood and VVater at Blewfields Bay and sent one Mr. Stone to be their Pilot thither This was in 1679. and in one of our Summer Months but I can't tell which tho' I was there In the South Seas on the Mexican Coast between Cape Blanco in the Lat. of 9D 56M North and Realeja in Lat. 11 North which two Places are about 80 Leagues distance there are VVinds which blow only in the Months of May June and July call'd by the Spaniards Popogaios They blow Night and Day without intermission sometimes 3 or 4 Days or a VVeek together They are very brisk VVinds but not violent I have been in one of them when we went from Caldera Bay bound to Realeja mentioned in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 5. Pag. 118. which blew at North. In the East Indies on the Coast of Coromandel there are VVinds call'd by the Portuguise Terrenos because they blow from the Land These are not those Land-Winds that I have already treated of for these blow only in June July and Aug. and are in several respects quite contrary to them For whereas the true Land-Winds blow only in the Night including Evenings and Mornings on the contrary these blow 3 or 4 Days without intermission nay sometimes a VVeek or 10 Days together and as the true Nocturnal Land-winds are very cold on the contrary these are the hottest of all VVinds I ever heard of They come with hot Blooms such as I have mentioned in my Voyage round the Word Chap. 20. Pag. 530. These Winds are at West and they blow only in the Months of June July and August which is the West Monsoon-Season tho' the proper Monsoon then on this Coast is S. VV. When these hot VVinds come the better sort of People at Fort St. George keep close They also shut up their VVindows and Doors to keep them out and I have heard Gentlemen that lived there say that when they have been thus shut up within Doors they have been sensible when the VVind shifted by the Change they have felt in their Bodies And notwithstanding that these VVinds are so hot yet the Inhabitants don't sweat while they last for their Skins are hard and rough as if they had been parched by the Fire especially their Faces and Hands yet does it not make them sick The Sands which are raised by these VVinds are a great annoyance to those whose business lyes abroad and who can't keep their Houses For many times they wheel about and raise the Sands so thick that it flies like smoak in Peoples Eyes and the Ships also that lie in the road at that time have their Decks covered with this Sand. On the Coast of Malabar they have of these sorts of VVinds also but not at the same time of the Year For as these on the Coast of Coromandel blow in the Months of June July and August when the West Monsoon Reigns on the contrary on the Malabar Coast they blow in the Months of December January and February when the East or North East Monsoon blows for then the Easterly VVind which is then the true Monsoon comes over from the Land of this Coast This being the West-side as the Coast of Coromandel is the East-side of this long East Indian Promontory The Persian Gulph is as remarkable for these hot VVinds as either of the former they come there in the Months of June July and August in the West Monsoon time and the heat there by all Accounts does by far exceed that on the other two Coasts The European Merchants that are employed in the Ports within the King of Persia his Dominions do leave their Coast Habitations and Business there during these hot Months and spend their time at Ispahan till the Air is more agreeable to their Bodies but their Servants must indure it And if any Ships are there then the Seamen also must do as well as they can 'T is reported the Commanders do keep Bathing-Troughs full of VVater to lye and wallow in and hide their Bodies from the noisom hot Blooms I was never in any of these hot Winds for I went from Fort St. George before they came on the Coast. On the Coast of Guinea there are a particular sort of Land-winds which are very remarkable not for their Heat as those last-mentioned but for their exceeding Cold and Searching Nature They are called Harmatans I have had an Acceâ—… of them from several who have Traded to Guinea but more especially from a very Sensible and Experienced Gentleman Mr. Greenhill Commissioner of His Majesties Navy at Portsmouth who upon my Request was pleased to send me the following 〈◊〉 count which the Reader cannot have better than in his own Words
rising upon Spring Tides about 6 or 7 Foot up and down I remain SIR Your humble Servant Henry Greenhill From His Majesties Yard near Portsmouth the 5th June 1698. Upon my Receipt of this from the Gentleman aforesaid I wrote to him again to have his Opinion about what I have said concerning the particular Longitude in which 't is best to ross the Line in going from Guinea to the West Indies And so much of his Answer as concerns this Matter was in these Words Mr. Greenhill's second Letter SIR I Do not dissent from Crossing the Line at 35 or 36 d. Longitude Westward of Cape Lopes and it may as well be done at 30. provided the Breezes continue fresh But if we have but little Winds we generally run on the South side of the Line till we reach the distance West and then Crossing we steer away West North West and West by North for Barbadoes And this you may observe as I have already hinted to you that the further we keep to the Southward of the Line the fresher and consequently more advantageous the Breezes are I remain SIR Your obliged Friend And most humble Servant Henry Greenhill And here I judge it will not be unacceptable to the Reader to insert two other Letters from an Experienced Captain of a Ship because they have a general Relation to the Subject I am now upon as well as to the Coast of Guinea in particular Part of two Letters from Captain John Covant of Portbury to a Gentleman in London LETTER I. Honoured Sir I Have sent Mr. Dampier's Book which you were pleased to send me to Captain S I have gone through it and find it very well worth my time being very delight some and I believe true I have made some Remarks on it as having found the like of what he asserts in other places As p. 65. mention is made of the Sucking-Fish or Remora as Mr. Dampier calls it These are mighty plenty on the Coast of Angola and at Madagascar and between Cape Lopes de Gonsalvas and the River Gabon They are shaped as he describes them As to what he saith p. 73. I have found the Indians in the Gulph of Florida offering false Ambergriece to sale and particularly in Lat. 25 d. where in the Year 1693. several of our Men were cheated with it What Mr. Dampier saith of the Laziness of the People of Mindanao p. 326. the very same may be said of the People of Loango on the Coast of Guinea exactly Their manner of Worship mentioned p. 338. is the very same with what I have seen at Algier on the Coast of Barbary The Nocturnal Dancings used by the Hottantotts at the Cape of Good Hope every Full and New Moon p. 541. are also practised by the Inhabitants of Loango Molinbo and Cabendo I shall give you the trouble of a small Relation of a Passage to Loango in the Year 1693. When we came so far to the Southward as 2 d. 40 m. N. Lat. and 8 d. 25 m. Longi Westward from the Meridian of Lundy it being 31st of March we had small Wind at S. S. W. and S. W. with showers of Rain There we met with prodigious shoals of Fish consisting chiefly of Albicores and Bonetoes There were also great numbers of Sharks some 10 or 12 Foot long For diversion we catch'd above an 100 of them at times The other Fish we took as we had occasion fresh and fresh and one day we caught a Barrel of them with empty Hooks These shoals of Fish kept us Company till we were under the Equator in Long. 4 d. 3 m. Eastward of the Meridian of Lundy This was April 27. we had the Winds at S. E. and S. E. by E. fresh Gales and clear Weather but a mighty Leeward Current At the Fishes parting with us that day I caught an Albicore that weighed 75 l. It is a mighty strong Fish so that the Fishing-Craft must be very strong to take them The City of Loango I find to lye in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. S. and Longi 18 d. 8 m. Eastward from the Meridian of Lundy from whence I took my departure bound for Jamaica Oct. 7. 1693. When we find the Winds South S. by W. and S. S. W. fresh Gales veerable to S. W. and back to South we stand off to the Westward with Larboard Tacks on board till we get 14 d. Long. to the Westward of Loango And there we find the Winds veerable from S. S. E. to S. E. fresh Gales When we get 34 d. to the Westward of Loango we are then 16 d. Westward from the Meridian of Lundy And there we find the Winds veerable from S. E. by E. to E. by S. and East and so they continue blowing fresh as we still run to the Westward between the Lat. of 3 and 4 d. South till we make the Island Fernando de Noronho which I find to lye in Lat. 3 d. 54 m. 30 s. South And by the Experience of two Voyages have found its Longi 40 d. 59 m. Westward from Loango and 22 d. 51 m. from the Meridian of Lundy This Island appears with a very high Pyramid And when we come close to it the Pyramid looks like a large Cathedral On the N. W. side is a small Bay to anchor in But ships must come pretty near the shore because it is deep Water Here is plenty of Fish And on the Island is some fresh Water and low shrubs of Trees We could see no living Creature on it but Dogs It was formerly inhabited by the Portuguese but the Dutch having then War with them took it and carried the Portuguese all away The Body of the Island I judge to be about 4 Miles long lying N. E. and S. W. near on the North side are some Rocks pretty high above Water and many Birds as Sea-Gulls and Man-of-War-Birds which are something like our Kites in England I find the Current sets strong to the N. W. The variation very little From thence I steered N. W. with fresh Gales S. E. and at E. S. E. in order to cross the Equator and designing to make the Island Tobago Which by my Run from the aforesaid Island I find to lye in Lat. 11 d. 33 m. North. Longi Westward of Fernando 28 d. 19 m. 2 10. The Meridian distance from Fernando 1721 Miles 6 10 And by my reckoning or Journal Tobago is West from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 51 d. 10 m. 2 10. In this Passage between the said Islands we find strange Rippling and Cockling Seas ready to leap in upon the Ships Deck which makes us think the Current to be strong And it seems to be occasioned by the great River on the main Land which is not far from us in this Passage Tobago is an high Island with a brave sandy Bay on the S. W. side where the Dutch had formerly a great Fort till molested by the English in the last Dutch War From this Island I shaped
this has commonly been nigh the shore and we have seen thick Clouds over the Land and much Thunder and Lightning and to our appearance there was more Rain there than we had and probably out farther off at Sea there might be still less for it was commonly pretty clear that way CHAP. VIII Of Tides and Currents The difference between Tides and Currents No place in the Ocean without Tides Where the Tides are greatest and where smallest Of the Tides in the Harbour and Lagunes of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy Of those between the Capes of Virginia The Tides in the Gulph of St. Michael and the River of Guiaquil in the South Sea A mistaken Opinion of a Subterranean Communication between the North and South Seas under the Isthmus of Darien Of the Tides at the Gallapagos Islands at Guam one of the Ladrones About Panama In the Gulph of Dulce and Necoya River on the Coast of Peru in the West Indies and at Tonqueen where and at New Holland they are very irregular A guess at the Reason of so great an irregularity Of the Tides between the Cape of Good Hope and the Red Sea Of Currents They are influenced by the Trade-Wind Instances of them at Berbadoes c. at Cape La Vela and Gratia de Dios. Cape Roman Isle Trinidado Surinam Cape Blanco between Africa and Brazil Of Counter Currents Of Currents in the Bay of Campeachy and of Mexico in the Gulph of Florida Of the Cacuses No strange thing for the surface of the Water to run Counter to its lower Parts Of the Currents on the Coast of Angola Eastward of the Cape of Good Hope On the Coast of India North of the Line And in the South Sea HAving treated of the Winds and Seasons of the Year in the torrid Zone I now come to speak of the Tides and Currents there And by the way Note That By Tides I mean Flowings and Ebbings of the Sea on or off from any Coast. Which property of the Sea seems to be Universal though not regularly alike on all Coasts neither as to Time nor the height of the Water By Currents I mean another Motion of the Sea which is different from Tides in several Respects both as to its Duration and also as to its Course Tides may be compar'd to the Sea Land-Breezes in respect to their keeping near the shore though indeed they alternately flow and ebb twice in 24 Hours Contrarily the Sea-Breezes blow on the shore by Day and the Land-Winds off from it in the Night yet they keep this Course as duly in a manner as the Tides do Neither are the Tides nor those Breezes far from the Land Currents may be compar'd to the Coasting Trade-Winds as keeping at some farther distance from the shore as the Trade-winds do and 't is probable they are much influenced by them 'T is a general belief especially among Seamen That the Tides are governed by the Moon That their Increase and Decrease as well as their diurnal Motions are influenced by that Planet though sometimes accidental Causes in the Winds may hinder the true regularity thereof We are taught as the first Rudiments of Navigation to shift our Tides i. e. to know the time of full Sea in any Place which indeed is very necessary to be known by all English Sailers because the Tides are more regular in our Channel than in other parts of the World But my subject being to speak of the Tides within or near the Tropick I leave those in places nearer England to be discoursed on by Coasters who are the only knowing Men in this Mystery They having by experience gained more knowledge in it than others and that is always the best Master I have not been on any Coast in the World but where the Tides have ebb'd and flow'd either more or less and this I have commonly observed that the greatest Indraughts of Rivers or Lagunes have commonly the strongest Tides Contrarily such Coasts as are least supplied with Rivers or Lakes have the weakest Tides at least they are not so perceptible Where there are great Indraughts either of Rivers or Lagunes and those Rivers or Lagunes are wide though the Tide runs very strong into the Mouths of such Rivers or Lagunes yet it does not flow so high as in such Places where the Rivers or Lakes are bounded in a narrow Room though the Tides do run of an equal strength at the Mouths or Entrances of either Neither do the Tides flow so much on or about Islands remote from the Main Land as they do on the Coasts of it I shall first give some Instances of these general Observations and then proceed to Particulars The Places that I shall mention shall be such as I have been in my self and where I have made the Observations before-mentioned I shall begin with the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy This Place is very remarkable in that it has two Mouths of a considerable bigness the one is about a Mile and half Wide and about two Mile through before you come to a Lagune which is seven or eight Leagues long and three wide The other Mouth is 7 Leagues from it and is about 2 Miles and half or 3 Miles wide and about 2 Miles long before it opens into the Lagune Besides farther within Land there are 3 or 4 more Lagunes less than the former The Tides that flow or ebb in all the Lagunes pass in or out at the two Mouths before-mentioned which makes them run very swift insomuch that the Spaniards have named that Great Lagune Laguna Termina or the Lake of Tides because the Tides are so very strong in those two Mouths Yet though the Tides do run so swift at the Mouths of the Lagune they do not rise in height proportionable to that swiftness for the greatest Tides here do not rise and fall above 6 or 7 Foot except forced by extraordinary Causes as Storms or the like Of which I have spoken before I could also instance in the Channel between the 2 Capes of Virginia where the Tides do run very swift yet the Floods and Ebbs are not proportionable to the swiftness of the Tide between the Capes There are not indeed such Lagunes as at Trist in the Bay of Campeachy but there are many wide Rivers and abundance of smaller Creeks Besides in some places there is low Land which is over-flown by the Tides so that all the Water that runs in with such swiftness within the Capes is insensibly swallowed up there These are instances of strong Tides occasioned by great Indraughts yet where there is but little rising and falling of the Water in comparison with the strength of the Tides at the Mouths of those Indraughts I shall next give some Instances of the great Indraughts where the Tides flow and ebb much more more than in the former Places though the Tide at the Mouths of those Indraughts does not run swifter than in those Places before-mentioned I shall
only mention two Rivers in the South Sea that I have taken notice of in my Voyage round the World viz. the Gulph of St. Michael and the River of Guiaquill In the Gulph of St. Michael there are many large Rivers which all disembogue into a Lagune of 2 or 3 Leagues wide This Lagune is barricadoed from the Sea with some small low Mangrovy Islands and between them are Creeks and Channels through which the Tides make their daily passes into the Lagune and from thence into the Rivers and so back again many times over-flowing the said Islands and leaving the tops of the lower Trees above Water The Rivers that run into this Lagune are pretty narrow and bounded on each side with steep Banks as high as the Floods use to rise and but very little higher For at High-water and on a Spring-tide the Water is almost or altogether even with the Land The Lagune at the Mouth of the Rivers is but small neither is there any other way for the Water to force it self into beside the Lagune and Rivers and therefore the Tides do rise and fall here 18 or 20 Foot The River of Guiaquil in this respect is much the same with the Gulph of St. Michael but the Lagunes near it are larger Here the Tide rises and falls 16 Foot perpendicular I don't know of any other such Places in all the South Seas yet there are other large Rivers on the Coast between these Places but none so remarkable for high Tides The great Tides in the Gulph of St. Michael have doubtless been the occasion of that Opinion which some hold that there 's a Subterreanean Communication between the North and the South Seas and that the Isthmus of Darien is like an Arched Bridge under which the Tides make their constant Courses as duly as they do under London-Bridge And more to confirm this Opinion some have said that there are continual and strange Noises made by those Subterranean Fluxes and Refluxes and that they are heard by the Inhabitants of the Isthmus and also that Ships sailing in the Bay of Panama are toss'd to and fro at a prodigious rate Sometimes say they they are by the boiling of the Water dash'd against Islands and in a moment left dry there or staved in pieces at othertimes they are drawen or suck'd up as 't were in a Whirl-Pool and ready to be carried under Ground into the North Seas with all Sails standing They have said also that when the Tide flows especially on a Spring the Islands in the Bay are all over-flown nay and even the Country for a great way together and then nothing is to be seen but the tops of Trees But if this were so 't is much that I and those that I was with should not have heard or seen something of it For I pass'd the Isthmus twice and was 23 days in the last Trip that I made over it but yet did I never hear of any Noises under Ground there I sailed also in the South Seas taking in both times that I was there near 3 Years several Months of it I was in the Bay of Panama And after I went away those of our Crew that remained there spent a great deal more time in that Bay Yet did they never meet with such strange Whirl-Pooles but found as pleasant sailing there as any where in the World Neither did I ever hear any of the Spaniards or Indians make mention of any such thing in all my Converse with them which certainly they would have done if they had ever experienced it had it been only to terrifie us and scare us away from their Coasts I remember indeed our Country-man Mr. Gage gives some hints of these strange Currents in this Bay in his Book called A New Survey of the West Indies from P. 538 to 440. but I am afraid he took most of it upon trust from others or else he was Sea-sick all that little Voyage for he gives a very imperfect and lame Account of that Business as if he understood not what he wrote I should dislike his whole Book for that one stories sake if I did not know that he has written candidly upon other Matters but I think I have said enough of this To proceed then As to the great Tides which are reported to be in these Seas I have given instances of them but they are not so great as is reported neither do they ebb and flow so much any where as in the Gulph of St. Michael only where indeed they flow over those small low Mangrove Islands at the Mouth of the Lagune and leave only the tops of the low Trees above Water for those Islands are very low neither do they afford any high Trees But however the Islands at the Mouth of the Gulph before you come to these low ones are near over-flown yet are they very small and low in comparison with other Islands in the Bay of Panama And indeed should the Islands in that Bay be over-flown the City of Panama would soon be many Yards under Water But so far is this from being true that the Pearl Islands which are very flat and low are yet never over-flown For there the Tide riseth and falls not above 10 or 11 Foot on a Spring at the Southermost end of them which is almost opposite to the Gulph of St. Michael and not above 12 or 14 Leagues distant from it And yet there it flows more than it does at or near Panama or any other Place in the Bay except just at the Mouths of Rivers by 2 or 3 Foot Therefore all that report is wholly grounless But to go on I have also observed that Islands lying far off at Sea have seldom such high Tides as those that are near the Main or as any Places on the Main it self as for example at the Gallapagos Islands which lye about 100 Leagues from the Main The Tides don't rise and fall above a Foot and half or two Foot which is less than they do on the Coast of the Main For on most Places of the Main it rises and falls 2 or 3 Foot more or less according as the Coast is more or less exposed to Indraughts or Rivers Guam one of the Ladrone Islands is also another instance of this There the Tide riseth not above 2 or 3 Foot at most In the Bay of Panama the Tides do keep a more constant and regular Course than on other Places on the Coasts of Peru and Mexico it was for that reason I called them Currents in some Places mentioned in my Voyage round the VVorld as particularly near Guatulca on the Mexican Continent in Chap. IX Page 238. but it was truly a Tide which there I called a Current and it sets to the Eastward as the ebb doth to the West The Tides there do rise and fall about 5 Foot as they do on most parts of that Coast. At Ria Leja they rise and fall about 8 or 9 Foot At Amapala they also rise
of the Trade Winds I shall instance Barbadoes for one and all the Carribbes may as well be included The greater Islands as Hispaniola Jamaica and Cuba have only some particular Capes or Head-Lands exposed to Currents as Cape Tiberoon on Hispaniola Point Pedro and the N. E. Point of Jamaica Cape de Cruz Cape Corientes and Cape Antonios on Cuba But of all the Islands in the West Indies there are none more sensible of Currents than Corrisao Aruba nor any Capes on the Continent so remarkable for Currents as Cape Roman which shoots out against the Sea betweenthose two Places as also Cape Coquibaco and Cape La Vela to Leeward all three on the same Head-Land which shoots forth far without any other Land on the Coast. There is no such Head-Land till you come to Cape Gratia de Dios which is about 260 Leagues to Leeward Indeed to the East-ward there is Land that trends out almost so far within 150 Leagues of it Viz. The Island Trinidado and the Land against it and there also are great Currents But I shall first speak of the Currents between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios. The Currents at Cape La Vela do seldom shift therefore Ships that ply to Wind-ward to get about it do not ply near the shore but stand off to Sea till they come in sight of Hispaniola and then back again till within about 6 or 8 Leagues of the Cape but not nearer But in the Westerly Wind-Season which is from October till March Ships often meet Westerly Winds that last two or three Days with which they may run to the Eastward without any trouble Between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios the Currents are much different from what they are against the Cape and this seems to proceed from the make of the Land for the shore between the two Capes runs into the Southward making a great Bay And this Bay affords more varieties of Winds and Currents than any one part of the West Indies besides Here in the Westerly Wind-Season the Current sets to the Westwards constantly but sometimes stronger than at other times At about four Leagues off shore you find it and so it continues till you are 20 25 or 30 Leagues off Beyond that you meet with an Easterly Wind and if there is any Current it runs also to the Westward therefore Ships that are bound to the Westward must run off to Sea Thirty or Forty Leagues to get a Wind or else if they have but a little way to go they must ply close under the shore that so they may Anchor when they please Otherwise they will be carried away to the Eastward Fourteen or Sixteen Leagues in a Nights time and that too though they have a faint Easterly Wind as frequently they meet with though 't is the Westerly Wind-Season To the East of Cape Roman as high as the Island Trinidado you meet only a soaking faint Current setting to the Westward except only near such places as shoot out farthest into the Sea as about the Testegos which are small Islands lying to Wind-ward of the Island Margarita Between those Islands and the Main you meet with a pretty strong Current therefore it is hard getting to the East-ward there but on all the Coast between Cape Roman and the Head-Land shooting out towards the Testegos you may ply up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From thence till you come as high as the East-end of Trinidado Isle you meet with an extraordinary strong Current From the East-end of Trinidado till you come to Surinam though you meet an Easterly Current yet 't is possible to beat it up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From Surianam also to Cape Blanco you may turn it up though to be sure you 'l meet with Currents setting to the West except near the Full of the Moon and then on all the Coasts before-mentioned we commonly meet with Currents setting to the Eastward at least then it slackens and stands still if it doth not run to the East-ward But when you are come as far to the East as Cape Blanco on the North of Brazil you meet with a Current always against you and so from thence Southerly as far as Cape St. Augustine There is no dealing with this Promontory for it shoots out so far into the Sea and thereby lies so exposed to the Sea-Breezes and the Currents that soak down between Africa and Brazil that it is quite contrary to reason to think there should not always be a strong Current setting to the N. W. I have before hinted That in all places where the Trade blows we find a Current setting with the Wind which is not so perceptible in the wide Sea as nearer the Shores yet even there the force of the Winds constantly blowing one way may and probably does move the surface of the Water along with it From hence it may be inferred that the Southerly Winds on the Coast of Africa and the true Trade between it and Brazil gently move the surface of the Sea with it and the Trade being mostly at S. E. drives the Sea to the Northward slanting in on the Coast of Brazil which being there stop'd by the Land bends its Course Northerly towards Cape St. Augustine And after it has doubled that great Promontory it falls away more gently towards the Coast of Suranam and from thence towards the West Indies For after it has doubled that Promontory it has more room to spread it self and thereby becomes weaker in motion being agitated by the Trade-winds which to the North of the Line we find commonly blowing at E. N. E. and this still bears the Sea slanting down along the Coast to the Westward And probably 't is for this Reason that we find the Current setting strongest near those Head-Lands before-mentioned Whereas at Barbadoes and other of the Caribee Islands we find only a soaking Current such as seems to arise only from the constancy of the Trade-winds blowing there and not from an original Current from the South part of the Atlantick which as I said before doubles about Cape St. Augustine and so Coasts along pretty nigh the shore The Currents about the Island Trinidado and at Currisao and Aruba as also between them and Cape Roman seem to indicate as much The Currents also between Cape Roman and Cape La Vela indicate the same From Cape La Vela the Currents set still to the Westward towards Cape Gratia de Dios but in a direct Line and not borrowing or slanting in towards the shore For as I said before it is a large Bay and Currents commonly set from one Head-Land to another so that Bays have seldom any or if they have they are only Counter Currents And these Counter Currents too do set from one Point to another without interfering with the little Bays between And 't is also very probable that these Counter Currents such as we meet with in this Bay in their Seasons after they have
it as I received it from my ingenious Friend Capt. Rogers who is lately gone to that Place and hath been there several times before THE Country of Natal takes up about 3 d. and half of Lat. from N. to S. lying between the lat of 31 d. 30 m. South and 28 S. 'T is bounded on the S. by a Country inhabited by a small Nation of Savage People called by our English Wild-bush-Men that live in Caves and in holes of Rocks and have no other Houses but such as are formed by Nature They are of a low stature tauny colour'd with crisped Hair They are accounted very cruel to their Enemies Their Weapons are Bows and poisoned Arrows These People have for their Neighbours on the S. the Hottantots Dellagoa is a Navigable River in Lat. 28 S. that bounds Natal on the N. The Inhabitants of this River have a Commerce with the Portuguese of Mozambique who oft visit them in small Barks and trade there for Elephants Teeth of which they have great plenty Some English too have lately been there to purchase Teeth particularly Capt. Freak just mentioned in my former Volume Ch. 23. P. 510. who after he had been in the River of Dellagoa and purchased 8 or 10 Tun of Teeth lost his Ship on a Rock near Madagascar The Country of Natal lies open to the Indian Sea on the East but how far back it runs to the Westward is not yet known That part of the Country which respects the Sea is plain Champion and Woody but within Land it appears more uneven by Reason of many Hills which rise in unequal Heights above each other Yet is it interlaced with pleasant Valleys and large Plains and 't is checker'd with Natural Groves and Savannahs Neither is there any want of Water for every Hill affords little Brooks which glide down several ways some of which after several turnings and windings meet by degrees and make up the River of Natal which dischargeth it self into the East Indian Ocean in the lat of 30 d. South There it opens pretty wide and is deep enough for small Vessels But at the Mouth of the River is a Bar which has not above 10 or 11 foot Water on it in a Spring-Tide Though within there is Water enough This River is the principal of the Country of Natal and has been lately frequented by some of our English Ships particularly by a small Vessel that Capt. Rogers formerly mentioned commanded There are also other Streams and Rivers which bend their Courses Northerly especially one of a considerable bigness about a â—…00 Mile within Land and which runs due North. The Woods are composed of divers sorts of Trees many of which are very good Timber and fit for any uses they being tall and large The Savannahs also are cloathed with kindly thick Grass The Land-Animals of this Country are Lyons Tigers Elephants Buffaloes Bullocks Deer Hogs Conies c. Here are also abundance of Sea-Horses Buffaloes and Bullocks only are kept tame but the rest are all wild Elephants are so plenty here that they feed together in great Troops 1000 or 1500 in a Company Mornings and Evenings they are seen grazing in the Savannahs but in the heat of the day they retire into the Woods and they are very peaceable if not molested Deer are very numerous here also They feed quietly in the Savannahs among the tame Cattle for they are seldom disturbed by the Natives Here are Fowls of divers sorts some such as we have in England viz. Duck and Teal both tame and wild and plenty of Cocks and Hens Besides abundance of will Birds wholly unknown to us Here are a sort of large Fowls as big as a Peacock which have many fine coloured Feathers They are very rare and shy There are other like Curlews but bigger The flesh of these is black yet sweet and wholesom Meat The Sea and Rivers also do abound in Fish of divers sorts yet the Natives do but seldom endeavour to take any except Tortoises and that is chiefly when they come ashore in the Night to lay their Eggs. Though they have also another very odd way which they sometimes make use of to catch Turtle or Tortoises They take a living sucking Fish or Remora and fastning a couple of strings to it one at the head and the other at the tail they let the sucking Fish down into the Water on the Turtle Ground among the half-grown or young Turtle and when they find that the Fish hath fastned himself to the back of a Turtle as he will soon do they then draw him and the Turtle up together This way of Fishing as I have heard is also used at Madagascar The Natives of this Covntry are but of a middle Stature yet have very good Limbs The Colour of their Skins is black their Hair crisped they are oval visaged their Noses neither flat nor high but very well proportioned their Teeth are white and their Aspect is altogether graceful They are nimble People but very lazy which probably is for want of Commerce Their chief Employment is Husbandry They have a great many Bulls and Cows which they carefully look after for every Man knows his own though they run all promisucously together in their Savannahs yet they have Pens near their own Houses where they make them gentle and bring them to the Pail They also plant Corn and fence in their Fields to keep out all Cattle as well tame as wild They have Guinea Corn which is their Bread and a small sort of Grain no bigger than Mustard-seed with which they make their drink Here are no Arts nor Trades profess'd among them but every one makes for himself such necessaries as Need or Ornament requires the Men keeping to their Employment and the Women to theirs The Men build Houses Hunt Plant and do what is to be done abroad And the Women milk the Cows dress the Victuals c. and manage all Matters within Doors Their Houses are not great nor richly furuished but they are made close and well thatched that neither Winds nor Weather can hurt them They wear but few Cloaths and those extraordinary mean The Men go in a manner naked their common Garb being only a square piece of Cloath made with Silk Grass or Moho Rind and wrought in form of a short Apron At the upper corners it has two straps to tye round their Wastes and the lower end being finely fringed with the same hangs down to their Knees They have Caps made with Beef Tallow of about 9 or 10 Inches high They are a great while a making these Caps for the Tallow must be made very pure before 't is fit for this use Besides they lay on but a little at a time and mixt it finely among the Hair and so it never afterwards comes off their heads When they go a Hunting which is but seldom they pare off 3 or 4 Inches from the top of it that so it may sit the snugger but the next
in general than the Crocodile 76. how they and the Crocodile differ 75 6. Almanack of Mexieo a Receipt in it O. 256. of Tonquin and China S. 60. Almond-milk where us'd S. 148. Alms of Missionaries make and keep up their Proselites S. 96. Lignum Aloes whence S. 8. C. Alta Vela its Winds W. 35. Altars of Idols where and what O. 396. 412. S. 43. Alvarado R T. Fort Fishery Trade and Commodities d. C. 43. 123 4. 6 8. 130. taken by Privateers 124 8. its fine Parrots 128 9. Amapalla Gulph d. O. 121 2 4 5 8. its Tides W. 96. Towns O. 122 3 6. Amapalla J. d. O. 122 4 5 8. Ambergriese where found O. 72 3 4. 477. where a profitable Trade to be driven for it 480 1. a large piece of it d. 73 4. found above High-water-mark ib. and with Beetles in it ib. Counterfeit where and what 72 3. 477. W. 54. America its Breezes W. 35. and Savannahs O. 87. its distance from Asia reckon'd too great 288. from Africa too little 289. Plantains how esteem'd there and where found 313 4 5. Plantains and Bonano's us'd there as Bread S. 23. Blood-wood and Stock wood its natural growth C. 57. Tobacco of the Philippines probably from thence O. 333. its Savages less so than reported 485. defirous of Trade S. 116. paint themselves O. 537. and wear skins nastily 539. see Atlantick Sea South Sea North America Seals there O. 90. and where none ib. see California New England West Indies Isthmus Mexico Virginia South America its West Course generally rocky O. 90. its Fish and Seals ib. its Rock-fish 91. and Snappers ib. its Coasting Trade-wind broader than the African in the same Latitude and why W. 78 9. where the Coast makes like that of Guinea and what the effects of it 80 1. Blooms or hot Blasts thence O. 529. see Andes Brazil Chili T. del Fuego West Indies Peru. Amoy Anhay in China its Trade great O. 417. and free 418. Anatta Otta a Dye where and what O. 226 7. C. 7. 113. how us'd by Indians ib. more valuable than Indico O. 227 8. price of it 227. an advantage in it slipt 227 8. Anchorings where and what O. 46 8. 55 7. 77 8. 81 4. 91 6. 100 9. 110 3 9. 125 8. 132 3 4 6. 144 5 6 9. 151 2. 163 4 9. 172 3 5 7 8. 188. 196 8 9. 202 4 7 8. 212 3. 232 3. 8 9. 242 7 8 9. 250 4 7 9. 262 6 7. 275 6 7. 291. 309. 346 7 8. 378 9. 382 4 5 9. 399 401 6. 417. 421 2 3 4 5. 436. 448. 454 8. 463. 475 8. S. 4 9. 10. 12. 13. 123. 154 7 9. 171 4. C. 16. 18. 19. 23 6 9. 30 2. 44 5. 50 1. 101. 118. 125. W. 24. 34. 56. good on Shoal Coasts O. 422 3 4 5. bad on bold Coasts or where Cliffs and Rocks ib. See Harbours Roads Anchovy a pickled Fish like it where S. 27. Andeman's Islands O. 476. Andes Ms. of Chili Peru Sierra Nuveada des Andes the highest in the world O. 94 5. cause deep Sea's 423. and the greatest breach in the True General Trade-w W. 78 9. and catch the Rains 83. St. Andrea's J. its Cedars O. 29. no provision there 31. Port Angels d. O. 239. Angola its Coast d. W. 27. and Winds 12. 13. 14. 38. 58. sucking-fish there 54. Anhay see Amoy Animals see Beasts Birds Fish Insects St. Anns in Campeachy C. 120. C. St. Anns in Guinea its Winds W. 16. 38. Coast 8. Anniseed where S. 6. a Berry call'd so by the Dutch 63. who steep it in their Arack 64. Ants of several sorts d. their Nests Travelling Labour Oeconomy c. C. 60 1 4 5. Ants-Eggs where and why esteem'd ib. White Ants or Wood Lice where S. 127. Ant-Bears d. C. 59 60 1. Ante or Mountain-Cow where found and d. C. 102 3 4. Antego harrass'd by the Caribbee Indians C. 6. its Currents VV. 101 105. a Hurriane there d. 68 9 72. another 70. Anthropophagi or Man-EÃ ters see Canibals C. Antonio in Cuba C. 9. 28 9. its Currents VV. 101 5. Anvil what us'd instead of it O. 332. Apples where O. 532. Pine-Apples fruit see Pine Arabick where us'd in prayers c. O. 331. and studied S. 137. Aracan China Earthen ware a Commodity there S. 63. Arack what and where O. 371. 420. S. 53. 78. 167. drank with Hens blood 83. a Drug like Annise insus'd in it 63 4. and Snakes and Scorpions 167. Arek-tree and Nut miscall'd Betle d. O. 318 9. where and how us'd 311 8 9. 328. 336. 355 9. 457. S. 54. Punta Arena O. 149. Arica Bay Calms VV. 14. Arica Town O. Intr. iv v. Pulo Arii d. S. 158 9. Arms Silver Hoops worn on them where O. 365. Arms kept neat S. 70 1. see VVeapons Armour of Buffalo's hide d. O. 432. Armada Spanish its Arrival at Portobel O. 171 9. 180. its general Course 179. 180 4 5. Armadillo animal d. C. 59. 61 2. Arrows headed with Flint O. 85 6. poison'd VV. 108. Art of Indians see Indians Arts Liberal what and where studied S. 59 60. Mechaniek see Artificers O. 331 2. S. 60 c. 136. 181. Aruba J. d. O. 47. its Currenrs VV. 101 4. water there breeding worms in the body C. 90. Ascention J. deep Sea about it O. 393. laying and breeding place for Turtle 107. 393. VV. 4 5. but no food for them there O. 393. Ash J. Vacca a Ship like to be lost there O. Intr. II. Asia reckon'd too broad and too far to the East O. 288 9. see China Indies East Persia. Asses where O. 74. see Mules Asses Skins how grain'd in Turkey C. 7. VVild Ass finely strip'd O. 533. Atlantick Sea what so call'd by the A. see Vol. 2. Preface reckon'd too broad O. 289. its True Trade-winds VV. 3 5 11. O. 549 550. Calms and Tornado's on the East side of it VV. 6. and near the Line 86. where least and what winds at the Line and why 7 8. Shy Turtle O. 449. Aves I. d. O. 49 50. D'Estres shipwreck there ib. C. St. Augustin of Brazil why hard to double VV. 9. 103 4 5. C. St. Augustin of Florida its Pearl-Oysters O. 173. C. St. Augustin of Madagascar the Cygnet sunk there O. 511. Avogato-pear d. O. 203. Terra Australis incognita Discoveries how to be made there O. 351 2. an Island of it as suppos'd seen by Captain Davis ib. see N. Holland The Anthor see Dampier Axes what and where us'd O. 332. much valu'd by Indians O. 483 6. C. 41. 119. see Hatchet Aynam I. its Situation S. 8. 20 1. and Pearl-Oysters O. 178. the Chinese Inhabitants and their Jonks S. 8 9. Azimuth-Compasses most us'd by English O. 533. B. BAcalao see Rock-fish Bahama I. Ambergriese there O. 74. Bahar what S. 132. Balachaun a Pickle d. S. 27 8. 30. Balderas see Valderas Baldivia O. 83 192. Bamboe's and Hollow Bamboes where and how us'd O. 16. 299. 330 5 6.
Singing and Dancing then usual where O. 127. 459. 541. Fires then seen 382. 459. Drum heard 458. Nigril Point in Jamaica C. 38 9. Noddy Bird d. O. 53. Nombre de Dios now a Ruine O. 58. Fernando de Noronho's I. d. VV. 56. Norths Storms and North-Banks Clouds presaging them d. VV. 60 1 2. 71. 105 6. C. 21. Chocolatta-North 39. d. VV. 60. North-Seas store of Seals O. 90. North-Sea See Atlantick North-West and North-East Passages how to be tried O. 273 4. Noses where People of short and low O. 32. 325 6. 427. thick 32. and flat ib. 326. 537. high or Aquiline 44. 297. 395. 407. large 407. small 170. 326. mean bigness and well proportioned 395. 478 S. 40. 128. C. 115. VV. 110. Nuke mum a Pickle what and where C. 28. 30. Nurse Fish d and where C. 25. 35. Nutmegs where O. 316. 447. 513. a Commodity and Price S. 152. VVild or Bastard Nutmegs without smell or taste O. 391 2. Pulo Nuttee VVater and Provisions S. 4. O. OAkam for calking Ships O. 295. Oaks the only ones seen by the Author in the Torrid Zone C. 53. Oarrha d. O. 255. Oars what where and how us'd O. 429. 490. S. 5. 13 4. 75. best Looms or Handles of what wood O. 54. 118. Oath of Allegiance where and how taken S. 82 3. Observations taken of the Sun O. 82. 281. see Latitudes by Ob. Offerings to Idols flesh O. 411. burnt sticks 412. see Paper Oil a Commodity where O. 142 3. 196. 214. of Coco-nuts how made 294. where us'd and Palm-Oil for anointing the Body 537 8. Train-Oil of Seals where to be had 90. C. 26 7 8. of Sea-Turtle O. 109. 110. 395 and of Porpusses S. 6. 8. sweet Oils us'd against Harmatans VV. 50. Old VVives fish where S. 128. Oleta R. d. O. 267. Omba I. d. and Isles and Sholes near it O. 459. One-bush Key see Bush. Onions where S. 23. 127. Opium a valuable Commodity where S. 154. 165 6. Oranges what and where O. 258. 291. 311. Cam-chain and Cam-quit S. 23 4. 45. 90 2. 124. 163. 181. C. 6. 94. Orange I. d. O. 385. 421 2 9. Ornament of Dancing Women O. 340. Princesses 342. of several people 32. 326 7. 407 8. 418 9. 427. 456. 464. 479. 514 5. 537 8. S. 40 1. C. 114. W. 111. Pulo Oro S. 5. Oromkeys of Achin O. 500. S. 141 2 3. 4. Ostridges see Estriges Otoque I. d. O. 200. Otta see Anatta Oven made in Sand O. 275. a fence from Fire S. 45 6. Out-cry of Fish at Malacca manner of it S. 163. Outlagers of Boats what O. 299. 480. how serviceable 487. 492 5 7. see Proes Oysters Oyster-banks and Pearl-Oysters what and where O. 43. 153. 173 4 6 7. S. 9. 89. 163. C. 17. 28. P. PAcheca I. O. d. 175. 196 9. 206. Pacifick Sea what properly so O. 94. and how made so W. 78 9. 83. Dews and Mists tho' no Rain 78. O. 94. and great Waves ib. healthy Coast 153. Paddles how and where us'd O. 299. W. 38 9. Padres see Priests Spanish Pagally what and where O. 327 8. 358. 364 5. 377. S. 52. Pageants O. 340 1. Pageant Princes see Boua Q. of Achin Pagoda's Idol Temples what and where S. 56 7. 90 1 2. 152. Pagoda Coin how much O. 509. Paita see Payta Painters where S. 60. 136. O. 409. Painting the Body where and how 514. 537. the Teeth black S. 41. Palaces d. S. 47 8. 130. see Houses Palankin of the Sultan of Mindanao O. 341. Palimbam in Sumatra its Pepper-Trade O. 401. Pallacat in Coromandel O. 522. why deserted W. 74. Palm-Tree and Dwarf-Palm or Palme to Royal d. O. 248. 318. and thatch 328. d. S. 46 7. C. 79. 115. Palm-wine O. 78. whence 248. Palm-Oil where used for anointing the Body O. 537. Palma Mariae d. and where O. 212 3. Palmeto and works and Thatch of it d. and where O. 150 1. 300. 328 335. 412. 479. S. 46 7. C. 11. 49. 79. 114 5. 127. C. Palmas Coast and Winds W. 16. 38. 50 1. Weather 80. R. Palmas C. 1â—…0 Palo de Campeche Logwood why so call'd C. 47. Panama Bay its Coast O 186. low 34. 425. Bounds 164. Rivers 178. Ship-werms 363. Rains Air c. 186. W. 83. Winds 17 9. 34 5. 40. O. 186. Tides W. 95 6. Islands 95. d. O. 174 5. 193 9. 200 2 6. 211 see the Map O. 1. Panama City d. O. 178 9 186. its strength 205. whence its provision 176. its Commerce with Portobel 179. 184 5. Course towards Lima 4. 135. 167. and from Lima thither 200 1. Old Panama burnt 178. Panay a Spanish I. unfrequented O. 382. Fires in the night ib. Pangasanam Pongasfinay of Luconia d. O. 383. Pangasinam in Sumatra its Pepper S. 182. Pan-tile see Roofs Panuk R. and City d. C. 127. Paper what and where made S. 60 1. burnt in Sacrisice to Idols 58. 9. O. 396. Parades in Spanish Towns O. 219. 269. 387. C. 46. Parakites where O. 321. 392. 426. 458. S. 26. 128. 181. C. 65. Parents play away Children where S. 42. sell them 37 8 9. 50. their Daughters to Husbands ib. see Children Pulo Parselor d. S. 158 9. Parracota Fish d. sometimes poisonous C. 71 2. Parrots where and what O 39. 321. 392. S. 26. 128. 181. C. 65. 118. a fine sort d. 128 9. Partriges where S. 26. C. Passao d. O. 162. No L. Breezes W. 33. its Currents 107. Passage-Fort in Jamaica Salt-Earth C. 18. Breezes W. 36. Passages North-West and North East how to be attempted O. 273 4. Passange-Jonca O. 499. 500 1 2. S. 118. 133 4. Pastla R. see Coolecan Pastures where O. 218. 231. S. 14. 21. see Savannahs Patagonia a Stage to East India Arrow-heads of Flint O. 85 6. Pate Bay great Calms there W. 20. Pattache a Spanish Galleon its Course O 185. Pavillions to sleep in a Commodity C. 42. necessary 80. Paving of Streets S. 47. see Floors St. Paul's I. O. 175. 206. Paunches of Goats how dressed and eaten O. 429. 430. Pea's where growing O. 532. Peacock a Bird like it where and what W. 109. Pears where growing O. 532. Pearl Pearl-Oysters and Fishery where and what O. 43. 173 4 5. 244. 264. S. 8. 89. Mother of Pearl where good O. 173. Pearl-Islands by Tonquin S. 11. Pearl-Islands in the W. Indies see Corn-Islands Pearl-Islands or Kings-Islands by Panama O. 171. d. 175 6 7 8. W. 95. see the Map O. 1. Santa Pecaque see Centiquipaque Pecary where O. 9. 12 8. 39. 169. C. 59. 96. Pecul how much S. 132. Pedro Point in Jamaica hard to double W. 32. Currents 101. Pegu its Achar O. 391. VVomen Prostituted there 395. Shipwrack'd Men kept there S. 8. its Jars 98. low Coast rich Pagoda and Image and Commodities Imported 151 2. Pelicans d. and where C. 69. 70 1. S. 26. Penguin Bird d. and where O. 97. 146. Eggs 159. Penguin Fruit yellow and red d. and where O. 263. C. 94.
57. sparkling working Waves in Storms 69. O. 414. always smooth C. 30. long Ebb presaging Storms W. 61 6. 70. Change of Colour O. 80. usually a sign of Sholes or Land near C. 28. Sea and Wind rise and fall together O. 217. At Sea Land-Breezes faintest W. 31 2 3. fewest Tornado's 86 7 8. Far at Sea weakest Currents 104. and Birds not seen O. 282. 531. Sea-winds warmest 529. see Weather Winds Fresh Water taken up at Sea 42. S. 156. warily 157. Sea-Marks see Marks see Atlantick Indian Red Sea G. of Mexico and South-Sea Sea men good S. 4. 5. bad see Spaniards Ignorance O. 276 7 8. 507. VV. 15. Superstition 31. lost by carelesness 41 2. Proverb 45. hardship 48. tricks O. 318. thievish ib. 528 9. just S. 117 8. scarce 112. see Lascars Sea-Devils fish d. C. 73. Sea-Cow see Manatee Sea-or River Horse see Hippopotamus Sea-Lion see Lion Sea-Dog see Seals d. and where where plenty of Fish O. 89. 90. 146. salted 263 4. 276. 533. C. 25 6. Seal-skin Floats d. VV. 38 9. Seasons of the Year VVet and Dry what and where d. VV. 76 to 88. S. 148 9. divide the Year as Summer and VVinter 31 2. Wet when 34 5. 180. O. 277. 322. C. 55. VV. 52. see Rains Floods Host Rain then at night 88. incommodious S. 45. 73. Oysters then fresh C. 17. Dry when and where O. 197. 258. 297. 323. 361. 394. S. 36. 90. C. 55. VV. 58. the Harvest-time of Plantations VV. 81 2. pleasant C. 122. VVater how preserv'd then 56. 76 7. Rivers brackish O. 258. 277. Season of VVinds what and where 38 9. 44. 280. 298. 303 6. 322. 346 7. 353 4 7. 401 5. 413. 437 9. and sign 490. 544. 5. 179. VV. 4. 8. 9. 11 2 3. 22 7. 30 5. 43 4 6. 101 2. for sailing bad O. 354. 416. 439. 461. 504 5. 510. 524. for Tornado's 458. VV. 51. Tuffoons S. 36. Norths 60. C. 29. Souths VV. 65. Hurricanes 68. stormy Monsoons 73. Currents 106 7. crossing the Line see Equator Making Salt c. see Salt Sugar Fishing C. 15. Periodical Seasons of Travelling kept by Fish and Fowl O. 394. see Turtle Sebo I. and one of Canes by it d. O. 379. 380. Segovia in Mexico visited by Privateers O. 129. Selam Look-out C. 13 4. Serle Captain and Serles Key C. 52. Serpents see Snakes Settlements Provision and Persons necessary for them O. 352 3. and where to be made 158 9. 349. 350 1. 394. S. 101 2 3. see Factories Trade Shabander of Achin O. 502. S. 141 2 4 5. of Malacca 163 6 7. Shackles and VVrist-bands of Gold where worn O 514 5. Shallow places O. 33. 125. 169. see Sholes Shape of People where streight well-made or shap'd O. 7. 170 297. 395. 406. 454. 464. 478. C. 115. and slender S. 181. raw-bon'd O. 406. squat 426. thin 537. see Limbs harks where O. 65. 79. 110. 472. C. 25. 35. VV. 55. kill'd by Storms 81. howdrest to eat O. 78. Sheathing of Ships how necessary O. 360 2 3. Sheep where O. 387. 464. 532. 540. a few for the King S. 25. their Skins worn and Guts eaten O. 538 9. 540. Shell-fish where and what S. 27. C. 17. O. 449. 540. scarce 465. a sort red like boil'd Shrimps 81. see Clams d. Cockles Conchs Crabs d. Craw-fish Horse-hoofs d. Muscles Oysters d. Periwinkles Prawns Shrimps Shells stuck in the Hair 538. Sherboro Cherburg R. near Sierra Leona English Factory and Trade of Cam-wood O. 78. C. 58. Ships and Shipping where built O 114. whither sent see Trade Little us'd where 117. 243. 267. C. 122. suppress'd S. 118. E. Indian what and where O. 332. S. 5. 8. 9. 74 5 6 7. 88. 110. 1. Houses built to attend them 12 3. measur'd O. 354. see Champa Chinese Jonks Proc's Spanish see Acapulco-ship Armada Barlaventa-fleet Flota Lima. Eaten with VVorms see sheathing Quarter-deck cut down 380. how made to wear VV. 64. cast on Land by Storms C. 92 3. VV. 67 9. 73. see VVrecks Seams opening in Harmatans 49. Hold hot with Pepper O. 525. see Anchoring Bark-logs Boats Cables Canoa's Careening Masts Oakam Oars Outlagers Paddles Pitch Pumps Rudder Sails Tar VVell-boat Shirts none worn S. 43. see Cloaths Shoes none worn O. 326. 408. 456. S. 43. 129. like Slippers and small ones of Chinese VVomen O. 408. see Feet Shooting of Birds newly learnt where S. 26. Shooting-matches solema 72. Shot a Commodity C. 41. Sholes and shallow places Bars Flats c. where O. 75 8. 119. 133 6. 144 7 9. 164. 193. 212. 242. 253. a sign of Land near 283. 297. 303. 378. very dangerous 382 9. 425. 447 8. 450 8 9. 460 1. ill plac'd in Charts 462. S. 5. 9. 10 1 2. 105. 156 9. 170 1. C. 28 9. 35. 123. usually near low Land O. 422 3 4 5. discover'd by change of Colour in the VVater 80. Beacons set on them 450. proper to Fish on 297. see Fishing Banks See Anchorings Shrimps and Trade of them S. 27 8. 128 C. 127 8. Shrubs see Bushes Fruits Trees Siam Bay d. Isles and Fishermen there O. 398 9. 400 1. 425. VVinds VV. 21. Course 23. 399. VVeather 82. Aguala wood S. 8. Kingdom of Siam their Trade at Tonquin 10. 16. at Achin O. 504. VVar with the English Bells bought for the King and English in his service ib. S. 101 2 3 5 to 9. Massacred at Merga 151. Revolution and English from Siam City 152 3. VVomen prostitutes O. 395. Achars 391. Sibbel de Wards Sebald de Waerdts Isles d. O. 80 1. Sick men refresh'd with Herbs and Fruits O. 92. 526. 542. S. 23. see Diseases Cures Sick place 180. O. 524 5. see Air bad Sight good O. 8. bad 464 5. see Eyes Signs of VVinds VVeather c. see Clouds Fogs Land Sky Storms Sun Silks a Commodity where O. 137. 245. 379. S. 15. and raw Silk 61. C. 120. for sowing 119. Silk-worms and Silks made where O. 409. S. 21 2 5. d. 61. VVorm 42. presented 108. 129. O. 419. China-silk 333. 409. S. 15. Silk-Countreys poor 39. Silkpaper 61. Silk-grass Aprons VV. 110. Sillabar O. 401. S. 179. 180. its Pepper 182. Silver Mines where O. 260 1. 9. European Prisoners not sent thither C. 54. out of a VVreck O. 148. imported S. 61 5. Buttons 108. Rings a Commodity C. 119. see pieces of Eight Plate-fleet Quick-silver see Quick Silvester tree fruit dye d. O. 124. 225 9. Sincapore Streights S. 4. 109. Singing Songs what and where O. 127. 337. 342. 459. 541. Sisal Look out d. C. 14. Sitting cross-leg'd where us'd O. 329. Situation pleasant c. O. 218 see Air Prospect Skins worn lousy O. 539. 540. for Instrument-Cases C. 73. eaten O. 429. 430. see Asses Goats Manatee Seals Leather Sky clear when W. 4. 45. black 66. see Clouds Weather Slaves working where O. 266 9. 534. see Negro's made Slaves 184. 456. 510 1 5 6. S. 7. 8. by Parents and Husbands 37 8. see Children Wives the
261. 277. Vallensuella Venezuella Lagune d. O. 63. Valleys rich c. see Soil Variation of the Needle what and where W. 53 6. O. 80 3. 287 8 Doubling the C. G. Hope by it 531. Varnish made of Lack where S. 61 2. Pulo Uby d. and Trade O. 399. 400. S. 105. Vegetables see Bushes Corn Drugs Dyes Fruits Herbs Roots Trees Weeds C La Vela its Trade-winds W. 17 8. Breezes 34. Currents 101 4 5. Barlaventa-fleets coasting it C. 126. C. Alta Vela its Winds W. 35. Venemous Creatures see Centipee's Galliwasp Beast like a Guano Snakes Fruit Fins Bones c. see Poisonous La Vera Cruz see Cruz. C. Verd VVinds near it VV. 7. 9. 15 6. C. Verd Isles their Product Portuguese c. d. O. 70 to 7. Pulo Verero d. S. 157 8. Verina its excellent Tobacco O. 63. Vermine of Negro's and Indians how bred O. 538 9. Vessels to hold Liquids c. O. 2. 10 6. 294. 412. 490. C 115. see Bambo's hollow Baskets Bumkins Cabbinets Calabash Chinam-box Cups Earthen-ware Jars Ladles Spoons For Navigation see Boats Canoa's Shipping Vice Smiths none us'd where O. 332. Villages tax'd to provide Soldiers where S. 71. how seated built c. see Towns See Victualling-houses or Inns at Tonquin S. 100. St. Vincent I. of the Caribbees C. 5. St. Vincent I. of the C. Verd's O. 77. Vines Vine-yards where O. 532 5. see Grape-tree Wine Wild Vine its Leaves good for Ulcers where O. 449. Vinello's Plant and Cods curing of them and use and where to be had O. 38. 124. d. 234 5. C. 123. Virginia its Cedars O. 29. Ship-worms 363. Cold N. W. Winds 530. Tides W. 92. Lignum Vitae where O. 57. Ulcers Cure for them O. 449. St. John d'Ulhoa Fort d. C. 125. see La Vera Cruz. Umbrello's where us'd O. 407. Ungee a Title probably at Tonquin S. 81. Voice deep in the Throat where O. 466 9. Volcans their Eruptions accompanied with Storms O. 225. throw out Pumice stones 230. see Volcan Vejo d. 118 9. 216. see Volcans of Colima Fogo Guatimala Leon. Voyages see Course See Dampier Drake du Quesne Glanius's Noted S. 125. Tavernier's Brothers 59. Utensils see Adds Anvil Bambo's Barbeu's Barklogs Beacons Bellows Benches Bob-Bricks Broom Canes Chairs Coals Cordage Dice Flags Hammocks Hives Instrument-Cases Ladders Pageants Palankins ' Paper Pavillions Pickers ictures Planks Plows Powder Pumps Scales Thongs Thread Vices See Boats Canoa's Cloaths Fishing-Instruments Iron Lacker-ware Musical-Instruments Ornaments Palmeto-works Shipping Weapons Vulgar Errours see Mistakes W. WAfer left among the Isthmus Indians O. 15. and his Return from them naked and painted 40. his Book referr'd to 24 151. Wallesaw the Devil so call'd by the Moskito-men O. 9. Walking-Canes whence S. 178. 167. see Canes Cacao-walks C. 111 2. d. 119. see Cacao and of Plantains Plantains Plantations Walls what and where O. 140. 218. 335. 411. C. 45. 115. 127. Man of War Bird where W. 66. and d. see Man Sibbel de Wards Sebald de Waerdts Isles d. O. 80 1. Wares see Earthen Lacker Manufactures Warner's causing a Breach with the Caribbee-Indians C. 6. Warree wild Hog where O. 9. 39. 169. C. 59. 95. Wars among E. Indians O. 325. 337. 444. S. 21. 67 72 8. 103 6 8. 143 4 5 8. 176. see Fighting Washing for health pleasure or Religion where O. 322 9. 330. 343. S. 137. 148. 180. Watch kept in Streets d. S. 77 8. on Coasts see Look-outs Water fresh for Ships c. where O. 49. 50 3. 101. 110 to 3. 121. 132 4 6. 141. 159. 169. 172 4 7. 188. 198 9. 204. 212 3 8. 232 3 4. 241 2 4 9. 254 5 8. 268. 274 7. 347. 379. 380 2. 393 4 8 9. 401. 416. 426. 436. 443. 472 8. 482 490. 525. S. 4. 5. 123 4. 156 7 8. 164. 171 4. C. 12. 9. 32 5. 42 4. 50 3. 109. 118. W. 46. 56. 109. where none O. 49. 50. 81. 97. 141. C. 23 9. 30. 44 5. see Rivers none but by digging Wells in the Sand O. 463 7. Salt if dug deep C 50. 118. Brackish in the Dry Season O. 258. 277. C. 53. how kept then 11. 56. 77. 84. where gone then O. 95 6. 197. 198. 394 8. S. 35. taken up fresh at Sea O. 42. S. 156. to be done cautiously 157. Jars of it carried on Bark logs O. 142 3. a valuable Commodity 144 5. the common Drink of Indians 431. Prisoners confin'd to it S. 78. swampy and flooded waters unwholesome O. 524. turning black in the Cask and heated with the fumes of Pepper 525. Aluminous or Copperish where 53. Water breeding Worms in the Legs c. C. 90. and Ship-worms brackish O. 363. Spic'd water 359. bitter-Bitter-waters Trial by them in Guinea S. 83. see Waves rolling one way and Current underneath a contrary VV. 106. see Sea Bees-wax a Commodity and where O. 333. 356. C. 112. Pulo Way O. 499. d. S. 121 2 3. Banditti 138 9. Weapons what and where us'd S. 70. 113. 176. W. 108. see Arrows Bows Cressets Curtana's Guns Lances Spears Swords Wears to keep Turtle where O. 106. to catch Fish 465. Weather wet dry fair hot cold what and where d. professedly W. 76 to 88. and 2. 4. 6. 7. 8. 19. 20 1 2 7. 30. 40 1 5 7 8 9. 50 2 5 8. 66 8. 74. O. 94 5. 186. 321 2 3. S. 31 to 6. 148 9. C. 55 6. scatter'd Observations or Instances of it O. 2. 4. 11 2 4 6. 21 2 7. 31 9. 44. 79. 81 3. 94 5. 108. 111. 131 2. 162. 173. 207. 212 5 6. 225. 230 2 3 8. 242. 251 5. 261 7. 274. 281 3 5. 297. 306. 347 8. 360. 378. 389. 399. 400 5. 413 5 6. 420. 437 8. 459. 472 3 5. 493 to 9. 502 4. 529. 530. 544. S. 16. 62. 90. 109. 177. 180. C. 9. 22. 33. 41. 79. 129. flattering Weather presaging Storms W. 68. O. 413. see Storm s. Most stormy at N. or F. Moon 416. see Moon See Rains Seasons Winds Wedges a Commodity where C. 41. Weeds none in deep Seas O. 393. see Chick-weed Gramadael Grass Moss Purslain Thistles Weights of Achin S. 132. Wells dug in Sand where 463 7. Salt if deep C. 50. 118. Well-Boat fashion'd Jonks d. O. 412 3. The West Coast that of Sumatra so call'd O. 476. its Pepper S. 182. Islands lying off it c. see Sumatra Westerly-wind Season see Winds Shifting Wheat where growing O. 532. Indian see Maiz. See Flower Guinea-Corn Whip-Ray fish two kinds of it d. C. 73. see Ray. White Cacao or Spuma d. C. 111. White Cock a fee for a strange Cure C. 91. White Lillies where C. 89. Wigeon Birds where S. 26. Wild-bush-men Negro's d. and where W. 108. Winds Variable somewhat without the Tropicks and Polar VV. 23. C. 126. O. 70. 81 2 3. 245. 351. 526 8. 530. 544. Stated in and near the Torrid Zone Trade winds d. VV. 1. 2. 26. 31. 90. 100 3 6. True or General at Sea d. professedly 2 to
the Sea or the Lagunes is Mangrovy and always wet but at a little distance from it it is fast and firm and never over-flowed but in the wet Season The Soil is a strong yellowish Clay But yet the upper Coat or surface is a black mould tho' not deep Here grow divers sorts of Trees of no great bulk nor height Among these the Logwood-Trees thrive best and are very plentiful this being the most proper Soil for them for they do not thrive in dry Ground neither shall you see any growing in rich black mould They are much like our white Thorns in England but generally a great deal bigger the Rind of the young growing Branches is white and smooth with some prickles shooting forth here and there So that an English-man not knowing the difference would take them for White-Thorns but the Body and the old Branches are blackish the Rind rougher with few or no prickles The Leaves are small and shaped like the Common White-Thorn-Leaf of a palish Green We always chuse to cut the old black-rinded Trees for these have less sap and require but little pains to chip or cut it The sap is white and the heart red The heart is used much for dying therefore we chip off all the white sap till we come to the heart and then it is fit to be transported to Europe After it has been chip'd a little while it turns black and if it lyes in the VVater it dyes it like Ink and sometimes it has been used to write with Some Trees are 5 or 6 Foot in Circumference and these we can scarce cut into Logs small enough for a Man's Burthen without great Labour and therefore are forced to blow them up It is a very ponderous sort of wood and burns very well making a clear strong fire and very lasting VVe always harden the Steels of our Fire-Arms when they are faulty in a Logwood-fire if we can get it but otherways as I said before with Burton-wood or the Grape-tree The true Logwood I think grows only in this Country of Jucatan and even there but only in some Places near the Sea The chiefest places for it are either here or at Cape Catoch and on the South side of Jucatan in the Bay of Honduras There are other sorts of VVood much like it in colour and used for dying also Some more esteemed others of lesser value Of these sorts Bloodwood and Stock-fish-wood are of the natural growth of America The Gulph of Nicaragua which opens against the Isle of Providence is the only Place that I know in the North Seas that produces the Blood-wood And the Land on the other side of the Country against it in the South Seas produceth the same sorts This Wood is of a brighter red than the Logwood It was sold for 30 l. per Tun when Logwood was but at 14 or 15 and at the same time Stock-Fish-Wood went at 7 or 8. This last sort grows in the Country near Rio la Hacha to the East of St. Martha by the sides of Rivers in the Low-Land It is a smaller sort of Wood than the former I have seen a Tree much like the Logwood in the River of Conception in the Sambaloes and I know it will dye but whether it be either of these two sorts I know not Besides here and in the places before-mentioned I have not met with any such Wood in America At Cherburg near Sierra-Leone in Africa there is Camwood which is much like Blood-wood if not the same And at Tunqueen in the East Indies there is also such another sort I have not heard of any more in any part of the World But to proceed The Land as you go farther from the Sea riseth still somewhat higher and becomes of a more plantable Mould There the Trees are generally of another sort growing higher and taller than the Logwood-trees or any near them Beyond this you still enter into large Savannahs of long Grass two or three Miles wide in some Places much more The Mould of the Savannahs is generally black and deep producing a course sort of sedgy Grass In the latter end of the dry time we set fire to it which runs like Wild-fire and keeps burning as long as there is any Fewel unless some good shower of Rain puts it out Then presently springs up a new green Crop which thrives beyond all belief The Savannahs are bounded on each side with Ridges of higher Land of a light-brown Colour deep and very fruitful producing extraordinary great high Trees The Land for 10 or 20 Miles from the Sea is generally compos'd of many Ridges of delicate Wood-land and large Furrows of pleasant grassy Savannahs alternately intermixed with each other The Animals of this Country are Horses Bullocks Deer Warree Pecary Squashes Possums Monkies Ant-Bears Sloths Armadilloes Porcupines Land-turtle Guanoes and Lizards of all kinds The Squash is a four-footed Beast bigger than a Cat It 's Head is much like a Foxes with short Ears and a long Nose It has pretty short Legs and sharp Claws by which it will run up Trees like a Cat. The Skin is coverd with short fine yellowish Hair The flesh of it is good sweet wholesom Meat We commonly skin and roast it and then we call it Pig and I think it eats as well It feeds on nothing but good Fruit therefore we find them most among the Sapadillo-Trees This Creature never rambles very far and being taken young will become as tame as a Dog and be as roguish as a Monkey The Monkies that are in these Parts are the ugliest I ever saw They are much bigger than a Hare and have great Tails about two foot and half long The under-side of their Tails is all bare with a black hard skin but the upper side and all the Body is covered with course long black staring Hair These Creatures keep together 20 or 30 in a Company and ramble over the Woods leaping from Tree to Tree If they meet with a single Person they will threaten to devour him When I have been alone I have been afraid to shoot them especially the first time I met them They were a great Company dancing from Tree to Tree over my Head chattering and making a terrible Noise and a great many grim Faces and shewing Antick Gestures Some broke down dry Sticks and threw at me others scattered their Urine and Dung about my Ears at last one bigger than the rest came to a small Limb just over my Head and leaping directly at me made me start back but the Monkey caught hold of the Bough with the tip of his Tail and there continued swinging to and fro and making Mouths at me At last I past on they still keeping me Company with the like menacing Postures till I came to our Huts The Tails of these Monkies are as good to them as one of their Hands and they will hold as fast by them If two or more of us were together they would hasten from us