clamorous or acting any thing against good Manners When I was there in September 1669. it was very hot Weather and many were sick of Fevers and Agues as they were at that time in most Parts of Europe and at my return into England I found many languishing under Quartan Agues who had been taken therewith about that time They were then also in their Vintage and we had the opportunity of tasting their Must and New Wine and the stricter Turks who would not be tempted with Wine would be much delighted to take a little in the Must During the hot sweating Season we went often to the Barber who would handsomely perform his Work and much to our refreshment trimming every Man according to the Fashion of his Country The Greeks have a place of the bredth of a Dollar lest bare upon the top of their Crowns and then let the Hair grow round it the bredth of two Fingers more or less after which they shave all the rest of their Head and wear it bare The Croatian hath one side of his Head shorn and the other side is neither shorn nor cut but the Hair is let to grow as long as it will The Hungarian shaves his whole Head except his Fore-top The Polander wears his Hair short cut so as it comes down to the middle of his Fore-head and the middle of his Ear. The Turk shaves his whole Head except a Lock upon his Crown The Francks shave not their Heads but wear their Hair long as with us only for the more amicable converse and that nothing about them might be offensive to those whom they live amongst they often tuck it up under their Caps The Greek Priests also neither shave nor cut their Hair but wear it as long as it will grow and many of them have thick heads of Hair but those that have least receive most refreshment here The Party to be shaved sits low and the Barber has the better advantage to shave much at one stroke he lays on very much Soap and holds his Rasor as a Knife and in a few strokes finishes his Work There is a Vessel of Water with a Cock hanging over their Heads which the Barber opens as he pleases and le ts fall theâ— Water on them In one of these Barbers shops in the City of Larissa I saw an ancient large Tomb of stone of a Jaspis green colour a noble Monument but taken little notice of there and the Barber had caused a hole to be digged through the top stone and put Water into it and made it to serve him for a Cistern I was in some doubt how we should be accommodated for the exchange of our Ducats Dollars and other money we brought with us but we found ready accommodation therein from Money-changers who sit in the Market-place for such purposes to change them into Medines Aspers and five sols Pieces whereof there was plenty in those Parts The great trading Streets were covered as in other great Turkish Towns the Shops are small but well furnished wherein hang all Commodities which may be had in a larger manner if desired The Shop-keeper sits like a Taylor in his Shop and so sells his Commodities unto his Chapman who commonly stands in the Street â— or other Commodities a man riding through the Streets cries them and gives notice where and at what rate they may be had Though I have been much pleased at the sight of the fine Stables of Horses of many Princes in Christendom as at that of the Louvre in Paris The Vice-Roy's of Naples The Duke of Saxony's noble Stable at Dresden and Count Wallesteyne's at Prague in the last of which each Horse hath a Marble Pillar by him eats his Provender out of a Manger of polished Marble upon a Pedestal of the same placed in a Nicchio in which hangs also his rack of hammered Steel and over his head on one side his Picture as big as the life Yet those gallant Horses I beheld at Larissa were surprizing unto me chosen from all parts of the Turkish Empire which were so richly equipped with Bridles and Saddles set with precious Stones and withal so tender mouthed and tractable that it was a great delight to behold them I saw some Tartarian Horses which are of singular esteem for hardiness lasting and swiftness but unsightly and promise little and when Cha Gagi Aga Ambassador from the Cham of Tartary presented some of them to the Emperor of Germany at first sight I thought them but a pitiful present The Greek Merchants some of them learn the Italian Tongue in order to their Commerce which makes that Language of good use unto a Traveller in these parts where French and Latine are in a manner useless The Jews speak commonly Spanish as they do in Macedonia Servia and Bulgaria and High-Dutch in Hungaria I was in Thessaly at a very dry season and some considerable Rivers were low and small ones dry yet one I observed about seven Miles on this side Tornovo to flow plentifully from under a rocky Mountain not in small springs or streams but the whole body of the River came from under the Hill The Country however in general was very hot and dry and I could not but think what a different face it now had from that in the time of Deucalion King of Thessaly when that memorable deluge happened in this Country which some affirm to have lasted a whole Winter occasioned by some stopping of the River Peneus and its current into the Sea into which River most of the others run and so an inundation must follow in such a Country as Thessaly which is plain and encompassed with Hills And some also conceive that in the first times all this Country was under water till an Earthquake divided the Mountains of Ossa and Olympus and made a free passage for Peneus to pass by Tempe into the Sea In Macedonia between Comonava and Filurina at a place called Eccisso Verbeni where I saw plentiful Springs of Mineral waters I had also a Prospect of two great Lakes one whereof the People have a Tradition that it first happened by taking great stones out of the side of a Mountain whereupon there issued out such a flood of water as to drown the Country about and to cause a Lake As I travelled in Macedonia the Chiaus told me that within two days he would show me French men whereby he meant the Country People of Thessaly from some likeness of their Caps with small brims to the little Hats lately in fashion The Thessalians have been a warlike Nation and are still a stout People I heard the Turks complain of them as a sturdy and desperate People and Men who if injured would find opportunity to be revenged and that divers of the Turks had been surprized and had lost their lives by them The Country of Thessaly seemed the more considerable to me in regard that it hath formerly been the Seat of great Actions and produced many worthy Persons
of Glaaâ—nfurtâ— Chief City of Carinthia pag 〈◊〉 The manner of passing through this Hill was surprizing unto me having never read nor heard hereof before I thought it might be some work of the old Romans but I was afterwards informed that it was much later and that if former time there was no passage into Carniola this way but they went about by Villach At first sight of this hole when I was far below it I conjectured it might be thâ— haâ—itation or Chappel of some Hermit but could not imagin how he should come unto it till at last by the winding and turning of the way up the Hill I did not onely pass through it my self but met with divers Passengers who came out of Carniola and it is so well contrived that the Country carriages and Carts pass through it every day In ascending this Hill we had bad weather rain and fierce hail and and the snow laid still by the way-side and being so high at the time of a strom I had an opportunity to see the Clouds descend and after it was past to ascend again so high as to got over part of the Mountain and a stream of them passed through the hole out of Carniola into Carinthia oppositely unto us who passed out of Carinthia into Carniola or out of Karnten into Craen This noble passage being already so well contrived and in the Country of a laborious and industrious people is like to be continued who remove the snow with great pains in the Winter and keep the way passable and as we continually ascended till we came to this Grotto so when we were once got through it we always descended came first to S. Anna two English miles downward then to Newstuttel a German mile and half further still descending and proceeded forward till we came to Crainburg which is thought to have been formerly Carnodunum a good Town seated upon the River Savus from whence through a fair Plain four German miles long we came to Labach or Lubiana the chief City of Carniola the River Labach runs through it which falls afterwards into the Savus It is an handsome City with a Castle seated upon an Hill which over-looks two large Valleys to the North and South and hath a fair Prospect of many Hills and Castles but being commanded but another Hill not far from it it is neglected although we find that it hath endured a strong Siege for while the Emperor Frederick was receiving the Crown at Aken his Brother Albertus and Count Vlrick took the advantage to besiege it but it made so good resistance that the Emperor had time to raise the Siege and destroy the Army At Labach I happily met with Mr. Tosh a Scotch Apothecary in that Town who was very civil unto me informing me of the places about and shewing me many Curiosities and the several Minerals of those parts This place is conceived to be old Nauportus famous for the landing of the Argonautes who setting forth from Argos Pelasgicum in Thessaly sailed unto Colchos on the East side of the Euxine Sea but being pursued by the King of Colchos his Vessels dispatched after them they declined returning by the Hellespont but bearing Northward entred the mouth of Ister or Danubius and passed up the River till they came to the concurrence of the Danubius and the Savus and taking up the Savus they came to the River Labach and went up that River landing about this place anciently called Nauportus and then travelled to the Adriatick Sea and returned unto Greece So that in my travels I had been near their setting out in Thessaly and at the place of their landing in Carniola From hence we travelled towards the Zirchnitzer-See or famous strange Lake of Zirchnitz having the Marshes on our right hand and the Hills on our left till we came to Brounitza and then passing over them we came to Zirchnitz a Town of about three hundred Houses which gives the name unto the Lake here I applyed my self unto Andreas Wifer the Richter or Judge of the Town who afforded me directions and accommodations for the viewing of the Lake and went down to Seedorff a Village half a mile nearer the Lake and then to Niderdorff where I took Boat and spent some time upon the Lake This Lake is about two German miles long and one broad encompassed with Hills at some distance and upon the South-side lies a Forest part of Birnbaumer Forest which extends a great way wherein are many Dear wild Boars Foxes Wolves and Bears Every year in some part of the Month of June the water of this Lake descends under ground through many great holes at the bottoms and in the Month of September returns again by the same holes and with a speedy ascent springing and mounting up to the heighth of a Pike and soon covering that tract of ground again When the water is under-ground the Earth makes a speedy production of of Grass yielding food for Cattel in the Winter and at the same time Hares Deer and Boars resort to this place out of the Country and the fore-mentioned Forest and are often taken by the people The Lake affords plenty of Fish but they fish but by permission for the Prince of Eckenberg is Lord thereof and a good part of the Country about but upon the going away of the water all have liberty to take Fish which they do by standing in the water by the holes and so intercepting their passage take great plenty of them which otherwise would follow the water under-ground and not returns again until September I could not hear that any unknown Fishes were brought up by the water but those which come up are of the same kind with those which went down which are a kind of Carp Tench Eels and such as are common in other Lakes and they are rather gainers than Loosers hereby when they come up for the Fish having spawned before the fry that goes down hath had about three months growth under ground when they are brought up again The Ground under the Lake is very unequal and the water not near of the same depth but in some places four foot and then suddenly again twenty yards deep and because the Fish frequent the Valleys or deeper places more than the Hills or eminent parts the Fishermen who know the place wet and dry have given unto seven of these Valleys peculiar names which in the Sclavonian the Language of that Country are these Vodanas Reshetu Sitarza Ribishkiama Naknisha Levishe Kottel I passed over the five first mentioned Valleys and went to a noted Stone called the Fishers Stone by the appearance whereof they can conjecture how soon the water will descend and by an Hill which when the water is high becomes a pleasant Island and then returned They can give no account that this Lake hath failed any year to descend and arise again or have any tradition how long this property of the Lake hath been observed Some Lakes
wood about them for accommodation they are covered over and they bathe in them cloathed with shirt and drawers as in Austria Not far from hence is a Lake called the Ossiacker See from Ossiack a Town upon the side thereof and is one of the most considerable Lakes in Carinthia there being besides it these which are remarkable the White Lake the Millstatter the Word and the Forchten this Lake doth not onely abound in Fish but affords great plenty of Ossiacker Nuts which the people eat and some make Bread of which notwithstanding upon examination I found to be no other than very large Seeds of Tribulus Aquaticus or water Gallthorps From Villach I soon came to the Werd See and keeping it continually on my right hand I travelled by the side of it till I came to Clagenfurte and then passed again to St. Veits where I met Mr. Donellan from whom upon my former desires to him I received an account of the great Lead Mines in upper Carinthia at Bleyberg where they have worked eleven hundred years and the Pits are deep Federnus Stollen or Cuniculus is an hundred and ten fathoms deep in the Earth and the Hills so high about it that upon the melting of the Snow in the Spring there is often much hurt done the Snow rowling and falling in such vast heaps that nothing is able to resist it so that in the year 1654. it fell so vehemently that it destroyed and carried away sixteen Houses He presented me also with many handsome natural Curiosities collected by him in those parts one of which among the rest I cannot but mention which was a rich large fair piece of natural Cinnabar found in Crewalt or in the Forest of Cre two German miles from St. Veit's in the Lordship of Oosterwitz where there hath been great quantities found out for the Herr von Staudach above thirty years ago as he was hunting in this Forest being thirsty and laying down to drink out of a little stream which runs from the top of the Hill he perceived the stream to be full of Cinnabar but since it hath been so diligently searched after that without working and digging for it there is little to be found From St. Veitz I continued my journey by Friesach where formerly there was a Gold Mine and then by Newmark Hundtsmark Peltsolz Knïtelfeldt Luihm Prug Keimberg Mehrz-u-Schlag Schadtwien Newkirckel Newstadt Solinaw Traskirchel Newdorff to Wien This my return from Venice to Vienna about three hundred and fifty Italian miles was the most quiet journey I ever made for not meeting with good Company I performed it alone and upon one Horse and although there are several Nations and no less than four Languages spoken upon this road yet I met with no disturbance from any nor did any one ask from whence I came or whither I would go no trouble as to Bills of health and good accommodation in the Inns at an easie rate they are for the most part a plain People make good Souldiers little mutinous but obedient to commands and hardy and are of good use and service unto the Emperor In my travels in Germany I seldom failed to meet with Jews but in this journey I met with none or such as I could not well distinguish for though there were then whole Villages of Jews in Austria yet they were prohibited in Styria and severely banished out of Carinthia so that for those Jews who travelled between Venice and Vienna the Emperor dispences with them as to their Ruff and the Venetians as to their red Hat To say any thing of Vienna may seem superfluous divers having written thereof and it might fall better in if ever I should describe my journey from the Low Countries to Vienna and from Vienna by the way of Moravia Bohemia Misnia Saxonia unto Hamburg mean while I would no longer defer to give some account of places less known or less described in Pannonian Dacian Maesian Graecian Noricum and Illyrian Countries which in their proper order are delivered in this Work In my Travels through Hungaria and the Imperial Provinces I could not but take notice of some Assertions which I could not verifie Belgrade is commonly counted to be in Hungaria and so described by some Authors but if strictly considered it is seated in Servia or Maesia Superior beyond the bounds of Hungaria That St. Jerome was a Pannonian may be granted but that he was a Native of Hungaria strickly taken may be doubted for he was born in Stridon now conceived to be Stredon or Streyna on the inward or Western side of the River Mur before it runs into the Dravus and is accounted in Steirmark It is said by Plinie Cursus Savi 150. mille passuum that the course of the Savus is an hundred and fifty miles which if accounted from the head is much too short and not much more then half the measure thereof That the River Savus runs into the Dravus seems affirmed by Strabo Vicinus Nauporto fluvius est Corcoras qui merces accipit hic in Savum influit Savus in Dravum that is Not far from Nauportus is the River Corcoras or the Gurk which receives the Merchandises this runs into the Savus and the Savus into the Dravus whereas the Savus never runneth into the Dravus and when it enters the Danube at Belgrade is about an hundred miles from it The distance which Strabo makes between Aquileia and Nauportus or Labach of four hundred furlongs or fifty miles though somewhat too short may be fairly tolerated but what he delivers of the space between Tergestum or Trieste and the Danube not to be made out Iter à Tergesto ad Danubium Stadiorum circiter mille ducenta that the journey from Trieste to the Danube was about one thousand and two hundred furlongs or an hundred and fifty miles which is too short a measure unto the nearest part of the Danube which will make about two hundred and fifty miles but the Ancients might easily err herein since some of them were mistaken in the true course of the Danube which they conceived to have one branch to run into the Adriatick Sea I went this Journey when the Sun was in Cancer in the hottest time of the year and the heat was very offensive to me in the great Plains of Friuli and Austria but in the Alpes it was much more moderate and the Country was all green and pleasant when on the contrary all the Grass in Austria was burned up by the Sun and if there were not a continual breeze about the middle of the day upon all great Plains especially in Southern Countries the heat would be intolerable and I could not but take notice how pleasantly the poor Peasants in the Alpine Countries divertised themselves in the Fields and after their labour would be lively and brisk sometimes play at Cards with Cards of a span long such as they have in those Countries while the rich Country-men in Austria were faint and gasping
resolved by the permission of Prince Maurice and the States to set out a Fleâ—t of eight Ships for the Indies four of which were to pass by the way of the Atlantick Ocean and the Cape of Good-hope And the other four were to search a passage towards the Kingdoms of Cathay and China by the North-east whereby the passage also into those parts might be expected much shorter than that which was known to the Spaniards To this intent these four last vessels sailed out of the Texel June 5. 1594. and returned in September not being able to proceed by reason of the Ice But upon the relation of the Voyage by William Barenson there were two other Expeditions afterwards to Nova Zembla in the last of which they wintered there and Barenson lost his life Heemskerk was the chief of the twelve which returned from that cold habitation where none but Bears and Foxes could well endure the Winter where he had been twice and afterwards made two rich Voyages into India Upon whose happy returns the Holland East India Company was first established and a prohibition mâ—de for any other of that Country to trade thither for the space of One and twenty years But to proceed to other publick Buildings in this City The Tuchthuis or Raspelhuis or House of Correction for debauched young men such as are incorrigible and disobedient to Parents or Laws hath at the entrance of the Gate two Lions bridled a proper Emblem with this Inscription Virtutis est domare quae cuncti pavent This was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Nuns of the Order of St. Clare and converted to this use 1595. They who are put in are forced to work and gain their Bread with hard labour I saw those who rasped Brazil having a certain task set them every day work so hard that being naked and in a sweat and the dust of the Brazil woâ—d flying upon them they were all over painted of a beautiful red colour Which odd sight made me call to mind the Fancy of my Lady Marchioness of Newcastle of a Nation wherein the People were of Orange-tawny colour and the King of Purple They told us that some that were committed to their charge and not to be brought to work by blows they placed in a large Cistern and let the water in upon them placing only a Pump by them for their relief whereby they are forced to labour for their lives and to free themselves from drowning One we saw put into a narrow Dungeon and kept from meat Some are put into this House for a longer time some for a shorter It hath been a punishment for such as have drawn their Daggers or offered to stab any one And some Citizens though able and rich enough contrive it so that when their Sons are extravagant and masterless the Officers seize upon them and carry them into this House where they are not forced to any hard labour but kept in till they see sufficient signs of amending their life This way of Correction may seem severe to many yet is not comparable to that which is said to have been formerly used in Germany Particularly at Colen in the White Tower at the North end of the Town near the Rhine where it is reported that such Youths who were not otherwise to be reclaimed were in a barbarous manner shut up in the White Tower The height and thickness of the Walls secured them from escaping or from their complaints being heard Near the top was placed out of their reach a loaf of bread the last remedy against starving which while their bold necessity forced them to reach at they executed their last sentence upon themselves and miserably brake their own necks Somewhat like the Raspelhuis is the Spinbuis or House of Correction for the young women who live loosely are taken in the night or can give no account of their living They are put in for a certain time according as their fault merits and are bound to make lace sew or employ their time perpetually in some honest labour Those of the better sort are permitted to have Chambers apart In one large Room I saw about an hundred of them and some very well dressed and fine which was an unexpected sight to me and would sure be more strange to behold in France and England The Weeshuis or Hospital for Children where there are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked after and well educated The Dolhuis or a House for such as are Delirious Maniacal or Melancholical of both Sexes The Gasthuis or Hospital for the Sick being large and hath a great Revenue The Mannenhuis or Hospital for old Men and such as are no longer able to labour towards their own support Besides all which there are great Sums of money collected for the poor so that there is not a Beggar to be seen in the Streets and upon all assignations or appointments of meeting at the Tavern or elsewhere and upon many other occasions whosoever fails to come at the exact time forfeits more or less to the use of the Poor The East-India-houses are remarkable and the great Stores of their Commodities Cinnamon Green-ginger Camphire Pepper Calecuts Indico c. The Ships are of a great burden their House was then enlarging although it was great before and a perfect Town for all Trades within it self The Admiralteyt or Admiralty where their Stores for War and Shipping are laid up is encompassed with water near to it there lay then 72 Men of War In the House we saw their Cables Grapling-irons Pullies Oars Charges for Powder Lanthorns for Ships c. At the entrance of the Gate hangs up a Canoe which seems to have a man in it dryed up so as to be preserved from corruption and a Paddle in his hand enclosed up to the wast in the Canoe in such sort as the Fish-skins which were the cover to it being so sewed together that no water could get in he might keep the Sea in the greatest Storms without danger The top of this House as of divers others also in this City is a Reservatory for Rain-water which they have the more need of because they have little good water hereabouts The fairest Streets in the Town are Harlem-street the Cingel Princes Graft Kaisers Graft and the New Buildings in the Island towards Gottenburg And if they continue to build with Freestone they will still surpass these which I 'll assure you are in no small measure beautiful I saw a Globe to be sold made by Vingbomes between six and seven foot Diameter valued at Sixteen thousand Guldens The Meridian alone being of brass cost a thousand Guldens The Globe is made of Copper-plates excellently well painted with all the new Discoveries in it as that of Anthony Van Dimons Land found out 1642. in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude and 170 of Longitude those towards the North-west of Japan and those places both about Nova Zembla and also in the Tartarian Sea beyond the Streights of
met with in one place made me think of Nero's admirable Fish-pond built in the like manner within the Earth We came out again near to a Convent upon the Banks of the River and returned by water to Maestreicht The next day we parted Company Mr. Newton Mr. Ettrick Mr. Grove Mr. Carlton and Mr. Newcomb went for Aken and Colen Mr. Bates and Mr. Daston went up the River again to Liege at which place staying a day or two to find a convenience to pass to Brussels we were nobly entertained at a Dinner with Venison Wild-boar and other Dishes by that worthy Person and Learned Mathematician Franciscus Slusius one of the great Canons of Liege who also continued his high Civilities to us to the last Minute we stayed in Town Leaving Liege we soon came in sight of Tongres or Tungrorum opidum the most ancient place in all these Countries Ortelius would have it to be called of old Atuatuca It was a strong hold before the coming of Julius Caesar into Gaul and was afterwards made a Roman Station and in process of time became so great that Attila the Hun destroyed an hundred Churches in it it being at that time a Bishops See which in the year 498 St. Servasius removed unto Maestreicht Many old Coins and Antiquities are still found here and part of an old Chappel said to be built by St. Maternus Disciple to St. Peter is still remaining When the King of France made his great inroad into the Low-Countries 1672. he borrowed this Town of the Elector of Cologne and then passed on to Maseick where crossing the Country to the Rhine by the sides of these great Rivers Rhine and Maes he made that notable Incursion and quitted not Tongres till he had taken Maestreicht the year following We dined this day at Borchloe and lodged at St. Truyn or St. Truden a handsome little Town so called from a Church and Abbey herein dedicated to that Saint The next day we dined at Tienen or Tilmont on the little River Geet once one of the chief Towns in Brabant but long since decayed In these Plain Countries in many places we saw small Hills or Sepulchral Eminences of the Ground And near unto the Walls of Tienen are three very remarkable ones said to be the Tombs of great Commanders In the Evening we came to Lovain Lovain is the chief City of that quarter of Brabant which comprehendeth Arschot Halen and Judoigne an ancient and large City pleasantly seated upon the River Dele it is of great Circuit and the compass of the wall accounted above four miles about but there are many void Spaces Hills Fields and Gardens within it which makes it very pleasant and delightful There are herein divers good Buildings Convents and Churches the chief whereof is the stately Church of St. Peter the Convent of the Carthusians the Hospital The publick Palace or Senate-house is also Noble It is the great Vniversity of these parts said to have had its beginning about 926. but endowed by John the Fourth Duke of Brabant and confirmed by Pope Martin the Fifth 1425. There are forty three Colleges in it wheâ—eof the four chief are Lilium Falco Callrum Porcus Goropius Becanus a Learned Man and Native of Brussels affirms That no Vniversity in Italy France Germany or Spain is to be compared unto it for its elegant and pleasant Situation The Vniversity is under the Government of a Rector who is in great esteem and honour among them This Vniversity hath produced many Learned Men But neither the Buildings of the Colleges nor their Endowments do equal those of our Vniversities and the Situation thereof seems not to exceed that of Oxford We travelled from hence to Brussels being most part of the way in the sight of the very high Tower of the Church of St. Rombald at Machlin Count Monterei was then Governour of the Low-Countries and resided at Brussels the ordinary Seat of the Governours of the Spanish Netherlands which City he had taken care to fortifie and to make it more tenable if it should be attempted by the French From Brussels we passed to Antwerp where we were handsomely treated by Mr. Wauters and Mr. Hartop and having visited some of our Friends the next day we passed the River Schelde and took Coach in the morning travelling through a fruitful plain flat Country set with rows of Trees in most places and arrived in the evening at Ghent Gaunt Gandavum or Ghent is esteemed to be the greatest City not only of Flanders but of all the Low-Countries and challenges a place amongst the greatest in Europe but at present it decreases and decays rather than encreases And if Charles the Fifth were now alive he could not put Paris into his Gant a greater Glove would not fit that City which is so much increased since his time In Ghent are many noble Convents among which the Jesuites is one of the fairest There is a Cloister also of English Nuns The Cathedral is stately and the Tower belonging to it being very high gives a prospect of a pleasant and fruitful Country round about it There are divers Piazza's large and fair in one of which stands a large gilded Statua of Charles the Fifth Emperor and King of Spain who was born in this City The whole Town is generally well built and the Streets are fair and clean The Inhabitants hereof have been taken notice of to be extreamly given to Sedition and for their sakes a great many other Cities in Europe are punished and have in a manner totally lost their Liberties For the Spaniards to curb the Seditious humour of the People of Ghent were put upon the Invention of building Cittadels in Cities whereby a few Souldiers are able to suppress any Commotion or beat down the Town so that here I saw the first Cittadel that was built in Europe by Charles the Fifth It is not large and the Bastions little and though of a Regular Figure yet not so convenient as those of latter days since that Art hath been improved From Ghent we passed by water about Twenty English miles to Bruges a very elegant large City and formerly a place of very great Trade being within three Leagues of the Sea so that from the tops of their highest Buildings the Ships under Sail are visible and at the same time a Fleet of Ships and a large Territory of a fruitful pleasant Country comes under your eye It is fortified with Works of Earth and deep Ditches The Convents are numerous The artificial Cuts of Water from this Town to all places makes it of easie access and though it hath no Port the Passage from hence to Ostend by water is short And they are at present upon a Design of bringing Ships up to this City Ostend is about Ten English miles from Bruges seated upon the waves of the German Ocean which wash it continually on one side And they have now contrived it so as to let
Belgrade Mahomet the great brought two hundred Ships and Gallies well appointed up the Stream And the Hungarians sent so many down the Stream from Buda that after a sharp encounter they took twenty of the Turkish Vessels and forced the rest on Shoar near the Camp so that to prevent falling into the Enemies hand Mahomet was fain to cause them to be set on fire The Christians had a great Fleet at the Siege of Buda when all miscarried under Count Regensdorff For the History delivers that the Christian Fleet consisted of four and twenty Galliots about fourscore small Pinnaces and little less than an hundred Ships of Burthen and other great Boats By the help of such Naval Vessels Wolfgandus Hodder did a good piece of Service when Solyman besieged Vienna for he came out of Presburg with armed Vessels and sunk the Vessels sent from Buda with the great Ordnance to batter the Walls of Vienna And as this Country aboundeth in Rivers so is it not without some notable Lakes as the Lake Balaton or Platsee or Volcaea of old extending a great length between Vesprinium and the Dravus with some strong Forts upon it This Lake put a stop unto the cruelty of Solyman's Souldiers who destroyed all from Buda unto the Lake Balaton And since it lyeth on the East of the River Leyta we may also reckon in the Newsidler Sea a pleasant Lake seven German Miles long and three broad so called from Newsidel a small Town of one street and some backward Houses with a small square Castle upon an Hill by it from whence I had a good prospect over all the Lake In the Commotions of Botscay fourteen Villages about this Lake were burnt by Turks Tartars and rebellious Heyducks The Hungarians call it Terteu and Pliny Peiso It is in the middle way between Vienna and Sabaria the birth-place of Saint Martin The long extended plain of Pampus in Paraguay in America exceeds all others as being two thousand Miles in length And I have heard that famous Navigator Captain Narborough say who not long since was Commander of the Sweepstakes and made a Voyage in her into the South-Sea that there is all low Land from the River of Plate unto the middle of the Straights of Magellan Moscovia and Poland have long Plains but many of them Woody and obscured by Trees but none more open and clear Plains than this Country The greatest Plains I have observed in England are those of Salisbury Lincoln and New-Market But these are but long Walks compared with those of Hungary and are exceeded by the Plains of Austria from Vienna unto Mount Simmeren unto the Borders of Styria And though the Vpper-Hungary be hilly and plentiful in Wood yet are there large Plains below I travelled from Vienna to Belgrade about four hundred Miles upon continued and not interrupted Plains which often appeared like the Sea without any visible Eminencies only a short and plain Wood by Bacna and Shilberg beyond Dotis and if we reckon the full of this Plain it will prove much longer extending from Mount Kalenberg or Cetius two German Miles West-ward of Vienna and so beyond Belgrade still along the North side of the Danube unto the Borders of Walachia which will make a larger extent than the famous long Walk from Agra to Lahor in India This plainness of the Country affords an handsome way of Travelling in open Chariots carrying one or two Men with a Charioter drawn by two or three sometimes four Horses a Breast and room enough to lye down In this manner I travelled from Buda to Belgrade over fair large Plains and many Miles upon Green-Swarthe and unworn Wayes especially in the County of Sirmium or Schremnia as they now call it No Country hath so large a share of Capital Cities upon the Danube for whereas from the course thereof from Vlme unto Belgrade there are reckoned Ten very considerable ones there are no less than four thereof that is Presburg Strigonium Buda and Belgrade accounted unto Hungary and Buda with the addition of Pest on the otherside the Water seems to be the largest of them all and I believe the largest also of any upon that Stream As the Rivers are full of Fish so are they covered with Fowl in the Winter Swans I observed none in the Danube but many other Fowls and some Pelicans not far from Belgrade As the Waters are also fruitful in Fish so the Land aboundeth in other Provisions and very eminently in the two supporters of Life Bread and Wine their Bread is hardly exceeded by any in Europe worked up and kneaded with long continued labour and so made light wholsome and well tasted and at so cheap a rate that for two pence as much is afforded there as twelve pence with us in England And indeed in all the Turkish Dominions where I travelled I met with so good and well tasted Bread that with Wine it was a Feast and with Water a sufficient Repast Grapes they have very delicious and large those at Virouichitz by Vacia are of eminent Note Wines also of a generous and noble sort the Wines of Tokay are highly esteemed the Sirmian Wines are very rich and pleasant in the South part of Hungary in which Province the Emperor Probus is said to have planted Vines about Mount Almus or Arpataro In many other places the Wines are very noble and some brought unto Vienna where there are above thirty sorts of Wines to be sold brought from several Parts And as the ground is not unfruitful in its own Nature so they are not without the practise of Good-Husbandry both in their Arable and Pasture Grounds especially in Vpper-Hungary and Parts not subjected to the Turks I being there about the end of February saw every night all the Country about us on fire occasioned by burning the Stubble and Grass and Herbs which afterwards arose with plenty again Saepe etiam sterileis incendere profuit agros Atque levem stipulam crepitantibus urere flammis To set their Fields on fire and Stubble burn With crackling Flames does to their profit turn They use not Barnes or Stackes of Corn but have many deep and large Caves under Ground wherein they lay it up safe both from Robbers and sudden incursion of Enemies At Clesch near Toopolchan when the Turks and Tartars made their Inroads in the last Wars the People retired and hid themselves in such Cavities but some Turks speaking Schlavonian told them that the Coast was clear and the Enemy gone and so tempting them out of their Holes they were unfortunately deceived into Captivity and carried away into remote Countreys never to be heard of again There is also great plenty of Deer Hares all sorts of Poultrey Partridges and Pheasants great store of Sheep which in divers places have long Spiral Horns and very long curled Wooll And Oxen in great numbers whereof 't is thought they send an hundred thousand yearly into Italy Germany and other Parts and it is
was not excluded from this place though not so esteemed or desired viz. Friulian Sclavonian German Latin and Italian Leaving Idria I passed over Swartzenberg or the black Mountain and descended about ten miles through a stony Country far worse than the Crau or stony Plain in Provence and came to Adoshini and then to Goritia or Noreja of old the chiefest place of the Country of Goritia well seated and over-looking a fair Plain to the South-West The Emperors Governour of this Country lives in the Castle and hath had of late a Guard granted unto him having been set upon by a Gentleman of the Country who for that fact was banished and his House rased Travelling in the night we had sometimes about us a great number of large Glow-worms which put into papers gave a dim light and in some places in the Plains the Air was full of flaming flies affording some delight to us The Carniolians speak a Dialect of the Sclavonian but in these parts they have a Language called Lingua Fullana or Friulana he that speaketh Italian may understand much thereof The Lords Prayer in that Language begins thus Pari Nestri ch' ees in Cijl see Santificaat tuto nom c. That neat kind of Acer whereof Violins and Musical Instruments are made prospers well in these parts as also in Carniola and Saltzburglandt where they make Trenchers and Tables of it and at an easie rate I brought some of the fair broad Leaves from thence Leaving Goritia I passed the River Sontius or Lisonzo which arising in the Hills above runs into the Adriatick Sea Near this River Odoacer who had made himself King of Italy was slain in a Battel by Theodorick King of the Goths And hither the Turks came under the command of Asa-Beg in the year 1477. in the time of Mahomet the Great overthrew Jeronimus Novello Count of Verona and a famous Commander of those times slew him in Battel together with his Son and most of his Commanders destroyed a Party of three thousand Venetians and set a hundred Villages on Fire Afterwards travelling on through Meadows I came unto the strong and well fortified City of Palma Nova built since to hinder the like incursions All this long Circuit until we came within a mile of Palma Nova we were in the Emperors Dominions which are much larger than commonly apprehended and having sooner or later seen the greatest part thereof I cannot but be of that opinion for he possesses all Austria Styria Carinthia Carniola part of Croatia Istria and Friuli part of Alsatia the large County of Tirolis the large Country of Bohemia Moravia Silesia and some part of Lusatia and a considerable part of Hungaria from Presbourg to Tockay and Zathmar above two hundred and fifty miles and the Inhabitants of these Countries being an hardy stout and valiant People I cannot but think him a great and powerful Prince and an happy Bulwark of Christendom against the Turks Palma Nova in Friuli is the largest regular Fortification I have observed it hath nine Bastions bearing the names of some noble Venetians which have little to be excepted against but their round ears on each Curtain there are two Cavalliers the Rampart is much higher than the Wall upon which there are planted a hundred good Guns and many more ready upon all occasions the Ditch is thirty paces broad and twelve deep it is kept dry to render the Town more healthful but may be filled with water upon occasion as that of Vienna much whereof is kept dry least it should injure their deep Cellars there are three Gates Porta Maritima Porta di Cividal and Porta di Vdine Between the Porta Maritima and the Porta di Vdine lie these three Bastions Foscarini Savorgnan and Grimani Between the Porta di Vdine and Porta di Cividal are three others named Barbaro Dona and Monte. And between the Porta di Cividal and the Porta Maritima are these three Garzoni Contarini and Villa Chiara They were then making one fair Half-Moon before each Gate In the Center of the City is fixed a Standard over a Triple Well in the middle of a Sexangular Piazza from whence a man may see the three Gates and six Streets quite through the Town The Piazza is beautified with the Front of the Domo Church divers Statues and an Obelisk much gilded In the middle of the Bridge there is a Draw-bridge made with such Artifice that the sentinel discovering any force approaching may by onely touching a certain Iron with his foot draw up the Bridge many handsom contrivances for Draw-bridges I had seen in other parts sometimes many upon one Bridge and not onely one after or behind another but also sometimes two or three on a brest the outermost ones serving for the retreat of the foot that in the middle for the Horse and Carriages Some Draw-bridges are not to lift up but to be drawn on one side and so by onely turning of it like to the opening of a Gate Passengers are conveyed over the Moat and landed but those which pleased me most were the Draw-bridges at Amsterdam which part in the middle and a Vessel though under sail may pass them without the help of any one on shoar for the Mast head or break-break-water of the Ship bearing against the Bridge in the middle opens it At Palma Nova the Venetians have made a cut from the Sea to the Town capable of good Vessels and broad and deep enough to bring provisions and supplies upon occasion to this place This is at present esteemed one of the noblest Fortifications in Europe begun by the Venetians 1594. and is a notable Bulwark of their State and Italy for this way the Huns and barbarous Nations passed into Italy and this way the Turks have formerly made in-roads almost as far as Treviso Having seen many of the chief Fortifications in Europe I had the greater desire to take a view of this because it carries so great a fame and is said to have been contrived by Military advice from all parts and as also because the Venetians would have it believed to be the noblest Fortification not onely in Europe but in the World I heartily wish they may never know a complete Turkish Army before it especially when ever they are in no good condition to relieve it If the Emperor through whose Countries the Turks must pass to come to this place and the Republick hold firm it will be hard for the Turk to come unto it and if the Turk should be at such a peace with the Venetians as may bind up their Fleet from assisting the other parts of Italy he shall not need to attempt it or make his way into Italy by that place for whether the Naval Forces of Italy without the assistance of the Venetians be able to resist a complete Turkish Fleet so as to hinder landing and falling upon that Country some other way is much to be doubted From Palma nova I went to Maran St.
in and where the Prince came over into the Town The Gallery the Garden the Walks and Dials are worth the seeing the Town is handsomly built populous and generally hath a great Garrison in it Leaving Breda we soon came by Land to St. Gertruydenberg the last Town on the North of Brabant where it joyned to the Province of Holland a small place but a good Town for fishing lying upon a Hill near the great broad Water called de Waert made by the falling of the Maes and many other Rivers into it This Town is fortified and Garrisoned The Church and Steeple have been Large and fair and the ruines of the Latter are observable in regard that this Steeple was shot down by a Stratagem of the Prince of Orange while the Governor and chief of the Town were upon it to observe a false alarm in the Prince's Camp and so lost themselves and the Town We passed from hence over a large Water which hath overflow'd a great part of the Country upon one side of it no less than seventy two Parishes being drowned at once the Village of Ramsdun only escaping and so by an old Tower called the house of Murvey to the Maiden Town of Dort or Dordrecht Dordracum so called by some from Duri or Dureti forum at present Dort being seated in the Waves of those great Lakes made by the Maes and Waal is not unaptly from its situation compared to a Swans nest it is reckoned the first and chief Town of South Holland in respect of its antiquity as having served to secure Odocer in his retreat almost eight hundred years since and also in respect of its Privileges in having the Mint here and being the Staple for Rhenish wine and English Cloth In this Town are many fair houses and pleasant Gardens The great Church is large the Steeple 312 steps high the top thereof being made of four large Dyalls There is also an Exchange or Place for Merchants to meet The English have two Churches and the French one The Key or Head to the water side is handsome and the Country about very pleasant we saw the Chamber wherein the Synod of Dort was assembled 1611. a large fair room and took a collation in the same house in a high turret overlooking the Town and Country Our seats Moving round about the Table continually so as the diversity of the prospect made it more delightful The great Vessels round-bellied which trade between Coln and this City seemed strange as also the long Luyck or Liege-boats and the number of People that continually live in them At my going away from hence I embarked in a Vessel bound for the Island of Walcheren sayling by most of the Islands of Zealand and in sight of divers good Towns as Willemstadt Zirickzee Tergoes observing in some places where the Sea had overflow'd the Land and in others where the Industry of the Inhabitants still keep it out by keeping up their banks and thatching the Shoars of the Sea We Landed at Ter-Vere where there is a good Haven and Harbour for Ships the Walls were built in the year 1357 towards the Sea are round towers The Piazza is long The Scotch have had a Factory here for above two hundred years and the Marquiss of this Place did formerly make one of the three States by which Zealand was Governed The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middleburg representing the Ecclesiastical jurisdiction and the Towns of Middleburg Zirickze Ter-Vere Flussing Tolen Martins-dike Romerswal and Tergoes supplying the Third over against this place where a Town had formerly sunk into the Sea the Steeple only remains to be seen From hence to Middleburg the way is Paved with Brick as it is also from Town to Town in most places of Holland Middleburg is the chief Town in the Island Walachria seated almost in the middle of it being well built large rich and Populous it is the fourth Port for the East-India trade hath a large broad Water within the Town and a streight cut through the Land to carry Vessels out to Sea the whole is very well Fortified the Officers here are chosen by strangers or Foreigners the Churches are many and remarkable the new Church is of an eight-square figure with a Cupola the Tower of the old great Church very high the Stadthuise with the old statua's about it the round Piazza and many private buildings are Considerable and the whole Country about it is fruitful either divided into Gardens and Orchards or Planted with Madder Pompions or Grain and Fruits The Zealanders are generally addicted to the interest of the Prince of Orange and great Lovers of his Person I found them not a little delighted that the Prince had been with them some days before and was made Premier Noble or chief of the States of Zealand which was chiefly brought about as I was informed by Pensioner Hubert le Sage Duvelaer and Vriebergen formerly no great friends to the Prince especially Vriebergen who was the most earnest of any to bring him in in despite to the Hollanders for General Wâ—rts his sake who being set over the Zealand forces by those of Amsterdam lately affronted Vriebergen's Son who was a Colonel at the Head of his Regiment I was entertained at Middleburg very courteously by Mr. Hill the Minister who also sent his Kinsman with me to Flussing Flissinga or Vlussing hath Stone-Walls towards the Sea and Mudworks towards the Land a very good Port and a strong Town the waves of the Sea washing it walls it was one of the first Towns which the Low Country men took from the Spaniards in the year 1572 and was made Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Rammaki ns and the Briel 1585. The renowned Sir Philip Sidney being the first Governor of it and surrendered by King James to the United states 1616. The Sea shoar here abouts is not only faced with rushes flaggs and reeds staked down as high as the Tide usually arises but it is also strongly bound over with Osiers and hurdles and great Posts driven in to break the force of the Water and secure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens mouth The Town-house is handsomly built standing in the Piazza having three rows of Pillars in the Front one above another the Lower Dorick the second Ionick and the highest Corinthian and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Discover ships at Sea This is the third Port for the East India trade Amsterdam and Rotterdam being the first and second here lay many great ships in the middle of the Town and considerable men of War as the St. Patrick and the Admiral of Zealand we saw them also building of divers ships and when the Prince was here they lanched one to divertise him to which he gave the name of William Frederick they also presented him with a Golden Bottle that being the Arms of the Town the Prince Landed at Armuyden and went from thence to Tergoes
inspect and enquire into the works of Artificers that they be true perfect and without fraud they make strong and handsome Clock-work The King of Poland presented the Grand Seignior with a very noble Clock who took so much delight in it that when it required some mending the Turks being ignorant in Clock-work he sent it from Adrianople as far as Nurenburg to be set in order again Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden was more magnificently received and entertained in this City than in any other of Germany which so incensed Wallenstâ—yn that he afterwards encamped before their Town and did great spoil upon their Territories But the King of Sweden marched thither towards their Relief and from thence towards Lutzen where in a bloody Battel he lost his life The River Pegnitz runnes through Nurnberg and hath divers Stone Bridges over it and below the Town joyning with the River Rednitz runs into the River Main at Bamberg and the Main runs at last into the Rhine The Reduitz arises at Weissenberg and is not far from the River Altmul which runs into the Danube towards Regensâ—urg Upon this convenience Charles the great designed to make a Communication of passage between the Danube and the Rhine and made a Câ—nalâ— thirty paces abroad between the Rednitz and the Altmul to joyn those Streams for the commodity of Passage by Boat but after he had prooceeded two German miles in this work Boggs Rains and his warlike Diversions made him give over that noble Design whereby there might have been a Commerce by water from the Low C un ries to Vienna and even unto the Euxine Sea The Roman Lieutenant in Nero's time had a desire to unite the River Soane and the Mosella and to make a passage between the Mediterranean and the German Ocean having been at the mouth of the Mosella by Coblentz and passed from Chaalon upon the soft and noble River Araris or Soane unto Lyon I cannot but think these very goodly Streams and fit for such a purpose The present King of France hath a design to unite the River Aude with the Garonne and so to have a passage by Boat from the Mediterranean Sea by Tholouse and Bourdeaux into the Ocean When I travelled in those parts viewing the Country well I thought it would be a difficult work and so it proves but the King hath proceeded already very far therein About four Leagues from Nurnberg lies Altdorff belonging unto it made an University in the year 1623. containing when I was there about 150 Scholars The Physick Garden is handsome and well stocked with Plants to the number of two thousand Dr Hoffman the Botanick and Anatomick Professour shew'd me many of the most rare of them and presented me divers The Anatomy School is not large yet the only one in those parts of Germany And they have divers curiosities preserved in it as the Skeleton of a Hart of a Horse of a Man of a Bear bigger than a Horse And some Pictures as one of a Ninivite and another of Moses which they take to be Ancient Dr. Wagenseyl Professour of Law and History brother to Captain Wagenseyl who travelled with me from Heidellerg invited us to lodge at his House and shew'd me his Library and all his Rareties and Coyns whereof he hath a good Collection having lived in most places of Europe and speaks many Languages well he gave me a piecâ— of the first money that was coined in Germany In the University â—â—brary I saw a fair Hortus Eystetensis and Toungerman's Collection of Plants by his own hand At Nurnberg I met with the Son and the Secretary to the 〈◊〉 Ambassador in Turky who had travelled hither over-land from 〈◊〉 stantinople in their return into the Low-Countries travelling in Greek Habits From hence I went to Newmark a good Town in the upper Palatinate belonging to the Duke of Barvaria and the next day through Heinmaw subject to the Duke of Newberg to Regensburg Ratisbona Regensburg Augusta Tiberli Colonia Quaâ—tanorum the chief place of the Ramans in this limit of the Empire where the fourth Italick Legion had a constant station was made a Colony by Tiberius in the year as some conceive of the Passion of our Saviour It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperour Arnulphus who had a great affection for this place so pleasantly seated and in a good Country Here the River Regen runs into the Danube from whence it was called Regensburg There are two Bridges one of wood below the Town and another Bridge of stone of about fifteen Arches which is the fairest stone Bridge over the Danube It is an Imperial City but not without some acknowledgement to the Duke of Bavaria And although it be strongly fortified yet it was taken by the Swedes in the German wars There are many fair buildings in it both private and publick and though I am not able to confirm what some report that there as aremany Churches and Chappels in this City as there are days in the year yet are there many fair Churches and Convents As the Cathedral of St. Peter on the South-side of which is the Picture of St. Peter in a ship andon the North another of the Apostles first Mission In the Piazza stands a neat little Church the Convent of St. Paul founded by St. Wolfgangus Bishop of this place the Convent of St. Emerammus Bishop of Ratisbone a Saint of great Veneration here though but of little mention or name in other parts The name of Albertus Magnus Bishop of this place hath also added unto the Fame of Regensburg But that which chiefly promotes its lustre is the General Diet or Parliament which is often held in this City and is not to be called in any part out of Germany and the place is not unfit for the accommodation of such a noble Convention as are the Estates of Germany The Vice-Marshal takes care to provide Lodgings respectively to their persons and sees that all things be brought hither and at a just price that the Hall or Place of Assembly be furnished and adorned suitably to the dignity of the Persons convened and hath an especial eye and regard towards the Publick safety By this Convention the great Concerns of Germany are much secured and their peace and quiet Established Wherein Germany seems to have a better advantage than Italy For Italy being likewise divided into many Dominions and Principalities hath no Common Diet or Great Council whereby to proceed for their Publick safety Which makes them often so divided in their common Concerns in times of Danger and when they most need a joynt Combination I entred the notable River Danubius at this place which hath already run a good course and passed by many fair Towns or Cities as the large City of Vlme in Swabenland where it begins to be Navigable as also Donawert Neuburg and Ingolstadt and hath already received the considerable River of Licus or Leck whereby the Commodities of that great trading City
the Sea in almost round the Town for a great space whereby it is become much more strong and defensible than before For when I looked upon it and considered what it was when it was besieged by Arch-duke Albertus and taken by Marquiss Ambrosius Spinola 1604. with an honourable Surrender after three years Siege I cannot but ascribe very much unto their Supplies from England and the obstinate Valour of the Defendants especially the English under Sir Francis Vere Sluys being in the hands of the States of the Vnited Provinces and Dunkirk under the French The Spaniards possess no other Port in Flanders but this and Newport and this being the most considerable they are now making the Haven large and are upon a considerable Work in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut which goes from Ostend to Bruges out of their Harbour by the means of a very great Lock or Receptacle of Water which is to communicate with both which when it is finished may be very advantageous to the Traffick of the Spanish Netherlands This Town stands very low but the Streets are straight large and uniform From hence I went all along upon the Sea-shoar to Newport a handsom Town with large fair Streets but low built There were then a great number of small Ships in the Harbour This place is famous for the Battel of Newport fought here by Albertus and Count Maurice wherein the Spanish Forces lost the day and much of the honour of the Field was due unto the English under Sir Francis Vere since which time although there hath been much bloud shed in these Quarters yet there hath not been so considerable a Battel ever since although the English had also the fortune to do great Service hereabout at a fight called the Battel of the Sandhils when a part of the Army of French and English which besieged Dunkirk fought with the Spanish Forces by Newport and overthrew them From Newport we put to Sea sailing out of the Harbour and intending for England but the wind being very high and contrary after having been at Sea all the night and had leisure to take notice of the great number of Sands upon that Coast in the morning we put into Mardike where at present there is only a Fort of Wood just above the High-water mark with some few Guns mounted The other Fort more into the Land being demolished Dunkirk is much increased of late and the King of France hath not spared money to render it considerably strong He hath very near finished a noble Cittadel begun by the English while this Town was in their possession which hath the Sea on one side of it the Haven on another and the Sandhills towards the Land which when the wind is at South-west doth somewhat annoy it To prevent which the French have made divers Cuts and Channels through the Sands into which the Sea entring doth moisten and fix the Sand so as they are not so apt to fly And every Bastion is sprucely kept and covered within with green Turf Beyond the old Wall of the Town there are now great Works drawn which encompass so large a space of Ground that the Town is made bigger by half And in this part stands the English Nunnery and many handsom Buildings The new Fortifications are very large and the Bastion towards the North the most stately The Port is large and capable of receiving a grâ—at number of Ships but at low water it is almost dry and there are so many Sands before it that at that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of it From Dunkirk we travelled by Land to Graveling where the Works are of Earth large and high the Church stately the Streets broad but the Houses low and at present not populous The Marquis de Bel fonds with the French and my Lord Ruterford with his Scotch and English came before Graveling upon the sixteenth of August 1658. and carried the place in twelve days time Don Christopher de Manguez yielding it upon the twenty eight on the same terms that it was delivered up by the French to the Spaniards 1652. From Graveling I came to Calais from whence setting Sail in the morning we came to Dover and the same day to London A JOURNEY FROM VENICE TO GENOA I Travelled some years since between Venice and Genoa through many Countries of early Civility seated in the middle of the temperate Zone in a fruitful and happy Climate affording plentifully all Necessaries for Life and through Countries which have not only been considerable for their copious production of Corn Fruit Silk Wine and Oyl but also for having been very fortunate in all Ages for bringing into the World Persons of great Fame and Renown who have rendred this Tract of Earth more than ordinarily remarkable for great Actions in all times The memory of which is still preserved not only in their Writings but also in their splendid Buildings and Antiquities though no parts have tasted more deeply of the dangerous variety of fortune these having suffered the frequent Incursions of many fierce and warlike Nations Having therefore formerly enjoyed such variety of observable Objects I could not remember this Journey without some considerable satisfaction especially having at the same time had the good luck to travel a great part of it with my worthy friends Sir William Trumbull Mr. Soames Dr. Palman Dr. James and Mr. Dashwood which makes me bold upon the opportunity of this second Impression to add further this short Account We passed from Venice to Padoa by water up the stream of the pleasant River Brent having all day long Houses of Pleasure and well built Palaces on each hand of us We entered this River near Lizafusina five Miles from Venice where formerly a Wheel or Engine was placed to convey the Vessels into the River The Venetians having long since stopped up the entrance of the Brenta lest that by the continual Descent of the Water the Stream and Channel might be diminished lost or altered and the passages for their Vessels rendred dangerous or inconvenient but this is otherwise contrived at present and four large Locks or Sostegni are made use of both to keep up the water and to facilitate the passage of the Vessels These are placed at Stra Dolo Mira and Moranzan and are very remarkable considering that the River in these places is locked up and the Vessels which are to pass are brought in between great Gates and the water let in or out as they have occasion to pass up or down the River The landing-place at Padoa is handsomly set off with stone steps continued for a long space along the side of the River after the manner of the landing-place at Ghent and some other elegant Cities of the Low Countries The outward Wall is strong being well fortified according to the Modern Rules of Fortification in the time of Leonardo Loredaro Duke of Venice and to render