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A29627 An historical account of Mr. Rogers's three years travels over England and Wales giving a true and exact description of all the chiefest cities, towns and corporations in England, Dominion of Wales, and town of Berwick upon Twede : together with the antiquities, and places of admiration, cathedrals, churches of note in any city, town or place in each county, the gentleman above-mentioned having made it his whole business (during the aforesaid time) to compleat the same in his travelling, : to which is annexed a new map of England and Wales, with the adjacent parts, containing all the cities and market towns bound in just before the title. Brome, James, d. 1719.; D. J. 1694 (1694) Wing B4857; ESTC R39940 65,229 160

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and Ireland nevertheless was attended with the same ill Fortune and Success which had been too long his Attendance And having but a small Army in comparison of the numberless Number of Rebells that were poured in upon him was totally Defeated in this City several of his Nobles slain and took Prisoners the rest forced to fly for their Lives and himself constrained to make his Escape as privately as he could and to betake himself into a Wood in Staffordshire where he hiding himself in the Shady Bows of a well spread Oak he found more pitty and security from the Trees and Woods than from his own unnatural and Bloody Subjects who for the fear of God by whom Kings Reign as well as their Allegiance which they have sworn to him ought to have been his continual Protection and Safe-good However 't is restor'd again to its Lustre and like the Phenix is raised again out of the Ashes to its native Splender and Magnificence being still Governed by a Mayor two Sheriffs and a Court of Aldermen with other Officers fit to preserve it in that Bravery to which it hath now attained From hence we went next into Herefordshire Having sufficiently satisfied our selves with the Varieties of that City we came into the Confines of the Eastern part of Herefordshire which is very Rocky and Mountainous at the first but having passed those Rocky parts we began to find the County more pleasant to the Eye We discovered it to be a fertile Soil the Vallies thick with Corn and the Meadows abounding with Grass and well watered with Rivers the Hills covered with Sheep and the Hedges full of Apple-trees which bear a sort of Fruit called Red Streaks of which they make the best Cyder in England in a word we found it according to the usual report which is made of it to yield to no County in this Nation for three W. W. W. Wheat Wool and Waters to which formerly might have been added Wood but the Iron Works have destroyed it very much and made it now become less plentiful The first Town of Note we came to in this County was LEOMSTER Is a Town of great Request in this County and is of great Antiquity Some are of an Opinion that it received its Denomination from Linen Hemp or Flax because that grows thereabouts in plenty but it may be so called from Lana because it is reported to have the best Wool known by the Name of Leomster Ore and is said to make the finest Cloth in England and as its Wool makes the finest Cloth so doth its Wheat the purest Bread and they say hereabouts that for Leomster Bread and Weobly Beer none can Compare Concerning the Town it is Situated in a pleasant Valley and is Governed by a Bayliff and Aldermen and is Adorned with a very handsome Hall for the dispatching of publick Affairs We went from hence to HEREFORD The chief City hereof is Situated almost in the Middle of the County and Watered by two pleasant Rivers Wye and Lugg which by their happy Union not far from this City advance her Felicity and enrich her Soil Antiquaries are of an Opinion that this City had its Rise from Ariconium which at this Day hath no form at all of a Town as having been over-turned by an Earthquake as some do imagine it to have been in this Place which they now call Lenchester some three Miles distant from this City which they conceive to be so from the Ruines of old Walls that are here to be seen as likewise from four square Pareing Stones and thick Bricks as well as several Roman Coins digged up in the Earth though now all grown over with Trees Bushes and Brambles We observed when we went to Visit this place we saw several peices of an old Wall which do Argue the place to continue in it very great remains of Antiquity however her Sister Hereford which now is Beautiful by the pains of others claims rightly the Pre-eminence before all other places in this County wanting nothing for Pleasure and Profit to make her Renowned She is thought first to have shewn her Head in the time of the Saxon and it is supposed to have received great Helps and Increase by Religion and the Martyrdom of Ethelbert King of the East Angels who when he courted the Daughter of Offa King of the Mercians was treacherously put to death by Offa's Wife hereupon being Registered for a Martyr he had a Church built and dedicated to him by Milsred a petty King of this County which after the Establishment of a Bishop's See it grew to great Wealth and Honour and is thought never to have suffered any Misfortune until Confesser's time when Griffith Prince of South Wales and Algarus had raised a Rebellion against King Edward and led away Captive the Bishop Sacked the City and burnt the Cathedral afterwards the Normans at the East end of the Church by the River Wye built a strong Castle and fortified the City with a Wall and by the Trench near the Castle is a very fine Spring called St. Ethelbert's Well Within this City are four Parish-Churches and Bishop Reinelin in the Reign of King Henry the First founded the Cathedral which now is being a beautiful and magnificent Structure adorned with divers ancient Monuments of Bishops and Abbors The City is governed by a Mayor who is annually Sworn upon Michaelmas-Day 12 Aldermen a Recorder and divers Common-Councel-Men and by their Charter have Privileges for particular Companies and Societies amongst themselves who have several distinct Halls and Petty-laws Enacted for Regulating and Ordering their Affairs in Trade It hath three Markets a-Week in which there are plenty of Corn and all sorts of Provisions About two Miles from this County stands Rotheram as formerly belonging to the Family of Boddenham now in the Possession of the Family of Van Arker and is one of the delightfullest and sweetest Seats in all the County having a spacious Park before it the River Nye behind it pleasant Meadows on the one side and fruitful Tillage on the other and having had such great plenty of Apple-trees belonging to it as I have been credibly informed by those that then knew it That take but one Apple from each Tree it would make a Hogshead of Cyder Concerning some remarkable Things in this County c. BONE-well near Richard's Castle we went to visit to take some notice of Nature who is never more curious than in her Water-works presented us with another new Rarity a Well called Bone-well in the Water whereof are always bubling up several little Bones like Bones of Fishes and altho' they which be upon the Surface are with as great care as can be taken off yet others will immediately succeed in their room HOPTON's-well is not far from this the Water whereof is found very effectual for the Curing of several Maladies which have seized upon Poor Languishing Decriped Mortals it hath likewise been observed to by very good for the
few Cathedral Churches but is now demolished There are accounted an Hundred and Thirty Parishes in this Shire We went next into Warwickshire It is bounded on the East-side with Northamptonshire Leicestershire and the Watling-street-way on the South with Oxfordshire and Glocestershire on the West for the greatest part with Worcestorshire and on the Northside with Staffordshire It is divided into a plain Champion and a woody Country which parts the River Avon running crookedly from North-East to South-West doth after a sort sever one from the other WARWICK is the principal Town of the whole Shire It standeth over the River Avon upon a steep and high Rock and all the Passages into it are wrought out of the very Stone It stands in a dry and fertile Soil having the benefit of rich and pleasant Medows on the South part with the lofty Groves and spacious Thickets of the Woodland on the North. It hath a very strong Castle the seat in times past of the Earls of Warwick the Town it self is adorned with fair Houses COVENTRY It is a City very commodiously Seated large sweet and neat was fortified with a strong Wall and is set out with right goodly Houses among which there rise up on high two Churches of rare Workmanship standing one hard by the other and matched as it were as concurrents the one consecrated to the Holy Trinity the other to Saint Michael One and the self same Bishop carried the name both of Coventry and Lichfield Leofrick the first Lord of this City being much offended and angry with the Citizens oppressed them with most heavy Tributes which he would remit upon no other condition at the earnest suit of his Wife Godina unless she would her self ride on Horseback Naked through the Greatest and most inhabited Street of this City which she did indeed and was covered with her fair long Hair and also a Proclamation was publish'd commanding all People to keep close within their Houses as also their Doors and Windows shut no Person on pain of Death to appear in that Street nor so much as to look into it whether out of a Window or otherwise upon which as she was riding along Naked one Man curious than Ordinary ventures to peep out of a Garret Window and being immediately discovered was Apprehended and Hang'd as by the Effigies of a Man that is continually kept up as a Memorandum in a full proportion looking out of a Garret Window and called by the Inhabitants Peeping Jack And thus she did set free her Citizens of Coventry from many Payments for ever At Gosford-Gate there hangeth to be seen a mighty great Shield-bone of a wild Bore or rather of an Elephant being not so little as a yard in length which Guy of Warwick slew in Hunting when he had turned up with his Snout a great Pit or Pond which is now called Swansewell but Swineswell in times past In this County there are an Hundred and Fifty Eight Parish Churches Worcestershire At the first entring on the Confines of this Shire we found it a very Healthfull and plentiful County One part is of Note for its excellent Cheese but mostly for its great number of Pear-trees growing all along the very Hedges of which the Inhabitants make a very pleasant Drink called Perry 't is likewise very full of Salt Pits and hath formerly been admir'd for the abundance of Salt-Springs which have very oft been discovered in this County but that which makes it most renowned is the River Severn which streams along the County This as also the River Avon which comes out of Warwickshire are well replenished with all sorts of Fish but more particularly seem to have been designed on purpose as Stews and Ponds for the preservation of Lampreys a Fish of great Esteem in that Country and sent far and near as a very great present throughout divers parts of England They are called Lampreys from the Latin word Lampretra as if they had their Denomination from licking of Rocks they are like Eels slippery and blackish however on their Bellies they are of a blewish Collour in the Spring they are most wholesome and sweet for in the Summer the part which is to them instead of a Back-bone waxeth very hard Naturalist observe that these Fish receive and let in Water at seven Holes for that they have no Gills visible at all the Romans allways thought this a very Noble Dish and when any Person of Quality desired a Sumptuous Feast he would be sure to be provided with these and the Italians at this day are very much delighted with them and upon that Account are very exquisite in their Dressing of them and consequently by their Cookery make them exceeding delicate to the taste The first Town of Note we came to in this County was the City of WORCESTER It is the chief City of this County and gives its Name to it the River Severn which in other parts of the County runs along in a swift Currant here glides more softly with a more gentle Stream admiring as it were this City as it passeth by It is famous both for its Antiquity and Beauty 't is supposed that the Romans built it at that time when they first planted Cities on the Eastern-side of the Severn to hinder the Incursion of the Britains who were on the other side even as they did on the South-side of the Rhine in Germany to repress the Germans and keep them within their own Boundaries 'T is situated partly upon the brow of a Hill rising with a gentle Ascent and hath a very fair Bridge over the River and is of great Repute by Reason that the Citizens are generally great Clothiers The Houses are Neat and well Built the Streets clean and well Paved the Churches in Number many in Order and Beauty excellent but especially the Cathedral built many Hundred Years since in this Church are divers small Pillars all of pure Marble which stand in Rows and do uphold that vast Bulk and Fabrick somewhat strange to see the Body larger then the Supporters that so small props should be able to bear up so great a Weight This City hath suffered great Calamities by Fire having almost been quite Burnt up by the Danes three times and in the Year 1113. by an unknown Casualty and once again in the Reign of King Stephen And sure I am 't is not long since it fell into the Hands of some Barbarous and merciless Rebells who were as raging as the Flames and whose Fury was as unquenchable as the Fire Witness the grevious Pressures it groaned under for its Loyalty Love and Obedience to the King in the Year 1651. For here it was That after His Majesties long Exile he arived with an Army of Scots and some English the 22 d. of August and by the Assistance of the Citizens beat out the Soldiers who kept it for the Common-wealth and being Proclaim'd by the Mayor that then was and one of the Sheriffs King of England Scotland France
brief relation of it tho' not in its proper place Surrey From the West it boundeth partly upon Barkshire and Hantshire from the South upon Sussex and from the East on Kent towards the North it is watered with the River Thames and by it divided from Middlesex It is a County not very large yet wealthy enough where it beareth upon Thames and lieth as a plain and champion Country FERNHAM so named of much Fern growing in that place GUILFORD a Market Town well frequented and full of fair Innes KINGSTONE a very good Market Town for the bigness and well frequented It had begining from a little Town more ancient than it of the same name in which when England was almost ruinated by the Danish Wars Aethelstan Edwin and Ethelstred were crowned Kings upon an open stage in the Market place whence it was called Kingstone SHENE so called of its shining brightness now Richmond wherein the most mighty Prince King Edward the Third when he had lived sufficiently both to glory and nature died King Henry the Seventh built it and gave it that name of Richmond of the Title he bore being Earl of Richmond before he obtain'd the Crown of England He had scarce finished this new work when in this place he yeilded unto Nature and ended his Life Here Queen Elizabeth also died CROIDON there was the Archbishop's House of Canterbury There are Charcoles LAMBETH Canutus the Hardy King of England there amidst his Cups yeilded up his vital Breath It is the Palace of the Archbishop of Canterbury This County hath in it an hundred and forty Parish Churches I have been both in North and South Wales of which other Pens have already set forth so that I do not intend to deliver any thing to the Publick that hath been already set forth by others but only give a short Account of several things very observable not yet set forth by any WALES Flintshire THe Air is healthful without any Fogs or Fenny-Vapours and the People generally are very Aged and hearty The Snow lies here very long upon the Hills the County affords great plenty of Cattel but they are small Millstones are also digged up in these Parts as well as in Anglesey Towards the River Dee the Fields bears in some places Barley in others Wheat but generally throughout Rye with very great encrease and especially the first Year of their breaking up their Land and afterward two or three Crops together of Oats Holy-Well or St. Winifrid's-Well This County is most remarkable for a little Village called Holy-Well where is the Well of St. Winifrid so famous for the strange Cures which have been wrought by the Vertue of it as it is supposed the Water hereof is extream cold and hath likewise a very great Stream that flows from it which is presently able to drive a Mill the Stones which are at bottom being of a sanguine colour are believed to receive that colour from the Drops of Blood which trickled down from her Body when she was here beheaded by the bloody Tyrant that would have ravished her and the Moss which grows upon the sides and bears a very fragrant Smell is averred to have been the product of her Hair though I find by some we brought away with us that in process of time it loseth all its sweetness Over the Well stands a Chappel dedicated to her built of Stone after a curious manner to which formerly was much resorting by Pilgrims who came hither out of blind Devotion and the generality of the Commonalty hereabouts do believe That this Martyred-Virgin and the great Miracle that was wrought by St. Benno who restored her to life again as they say by claping on her head immediately after it was cut off upon her Shoulders which Relation those Inhabitants thereabouts do verily believe to be true So having made some small stay here in which time we conversed with the Welshmen and gathered up a true Account of this County which was as follows Radnorshire In the East and South parts thereof 't is more fruitful than the rest but is uneven and rough with Mountains yet it is well stored with Woods watered with running Rivers and in some places with standing Pools the Air is very cold and sharp because the Snow lying long unmelted under the shady Hills and hanging Rocks whereof there are many and upon the Borders of it which lies next to Herefordshire runs a-long a famous Ditch which Offa King of the Mercians with great toil and labour caused to be cast up from Dee mouth to Wye mouth for the space of 90 Miles to separate the Britains from the English Several other things there are very observable which are too tedious to relate Brecknockshire Lies beneath Radnorshire It is thick with Hills and fruitful in the Valleys MOUNTH-DENNY three Miles from Brecknock is a Hill so called that hath its top above the Clouds and if a Cloak or Hat or the like be thrown from the top of it it will never fall but be blown up again nor will any thing descend but Stones or Mettals or things as heavy LYNSARATHAN-MERE two Miles East from the same place is a Mere called Lynsarathan which as the People dwelling there say was once a City but the whole City was swallowed up by an Earthquake and this Water or Lake succeeded in the place they say likewise That at the end of Winter when aftr a long Frost and the Ice of this Lake breaks it makes a fearful noise like Thunder possibly because the Lake is encompassed with high steep Hills which pen in the sound and multiply it or else the ground may be hollow underneath or near the Lake LIVENNY-River Through this Lake runs a River called Livenny without mixture of its Waters as may be perceived both by the Colour of the Water and also by the Quantity of it because it is no greater afterwards than when it entered the Lake CADIER-ARTHUR or Arthur's Chair a Hill so called on the South side of this County from the Tops resembling the form of a Chair proportionate to the Demensions of that great and mighty Person upon the top whereof riseth a Spring as deep as a Well four square having no Streams issuing from it and yet there are plenty of Trouts to be found therein Glamorganshire Hath a temperate Air and is generally the most pleasant part of all South Wales MINYD-MORGAN Hill On the top of a certain Hill so called is a Monument with a strange Character which the Inhabitants thereabouts say if any Man read the same he shall die shortly after The Springs by Newton Upon the River Ogmore and near to Newton in a sandy Plain is a Well the Water whereof is not very clear in which at full Sea in Summer-time can hardly any Water be took up but at the Ebb it bubbleth up amain in Summer-time I say for in the Winter the Ebbing and Flowing is nothing near so evident because of the Veins of Water coming in by
restoring of Eye-sight to the Blind and is also of great use in strengthening the Limbs of weak Persons SUTTON WALLS Amongst the other Varieties we were entertanied with in this County there were some Remains of Antiquity called Sutton walls Near to the Village of Marden are the Ruins of some antient great Buildings in all probability supposed to be the Mansion-house of Offa when Renchester flourished or at least when Hereford was but in its Infancy This Offa being King of the Mercians having invited Ethelhert King of the East-Angles into his Palace under colour and pretence of bestowing his Daughter upon him in Marriage by the Councel of his ambitious Wife in hopes to succeed him in his Kingdom basely and treacherously caused his Head to be stricken off by one Grimbert his Servant and his Body being buried on the Banks of the River Lugg was afterwards removed to Hereford and over it was built a Cathedral by King Milfred which was since dedicated to St. Ethelbert Having sufficiently recreated our selves with all the pleasure pastimes and rarities in this County we began to think to return towards London and went from this City to a place called Ross in this County a Town noted for its famous Houses of Slates and Stones as also for a great number of Blacksmiths hammering out their living upon their Anvells and when we were past that Town we soon came into the Confines of Gloucestershire of which hereafter Gloucestershire Being within the Confines of this County we found it most fertile watered by the River Severn and be-set with Woods and thick Groves 't is happy in the enjoyment of all things which are necessary for the Use and Service of Man the very Hedges and Land are well stored with Apples and Pear-trees and their fragrant blushing Colour invites the wandering Travellers to refresh himself with their most Wholesome Juices And as Concerning this County in General the Towns stands thick together in most parts of this County and so 't is populous the Houses numerous and well built the Churches fair and handsome and so 't is honourable but that which is one of the greatest Blessings of all is the River Severn there is not any River in all our Nation for its Channel broader for a Stream Swifter and for Variety of Fish better stocked though sometimes it overflows the Banks and when it hath roved a great way it retires back again as it were triumphing over the Conquest of the Land This River Severn or Sabrina was so called from Sabenia a fair Lady concerning whom there goes this Story Loarnie the eldest Son of Brutus who came first into Britain took to Wife the Daughter of the Duke of Cornwall but notwithstanding this he kept a very beautiful Mistriss and by her he had a Daughter whom he named Sabenia whereupon he grew so enamoured of her that after the Death of his Father-in-law the Duke of Cornwall he put a way his Lawful-Wife and Wedded his Mistriss his Wife was so extreamly netled at this that she immediately repaired into Cornwall and made her Complaint there amongst her Friends and Relations and having gathered a great Power to revenge her Injury she fought with her Husband Loarine and Slew him and buried him at Trynobant or London afterwards executed her Revenge still in the highest Degree She took the Lady with her fair Daughter Sabenia too and drowned them both in this River The first place of Note we came to in this County was the City of GLOCESTER This City is well seated and as well inhabited and of a considerable Trade by reason of the Severn which being Navigable Boats of great Burden come up to their Key side loaded with several Commodities 'T is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen and is adorned with several fair Churches amongst which the Cathedral is the chief and most glorious Erected by Alfred Archbishop of York and Bishop of Worcester it hath been by the charity of good Benefactors much enlarged King Edward the Second lies here Interred under a Monument of Alablaster and in the Quire under a wooden painted Tomb lies Robert the Eldest Son of William the Conqueror who was deprived both of his Life and Kingdom by his younger Brother Here is likewise to be seen the Monument of Lucius the first Christian King that ever was in England about the Year 179. The Pillars of this Church are of an extraordinary thickness scarce to be parallel'd in any Church in England but that which makes it more remarkable is a place at the East end of the Quire called The Whispering-place 't is a Pentagone-Arch in the from of a Semicircle 30 Yards in circuit and so rare a piece of Art That if any Person stands at one end of it and whispers never so softly he that lays his Ear to the other end will discover distinctly the Words he speaks Then next Town of Note we went to was TEWKSBURY a Market-Town of good Note and of a great Trade for Cloth and Stockins 'T is situated amongst the pleasant Rivers Severn on the one side enricheth it on the other side Avon and another small River which comes from the East over each whereof stands Bridges which give entrance into it It hath been counted famous for the great Battel fought here between the House of York and Lancaster utterly Subverted In the Reign of King Henry the Third there is a story of a Jew that lived in this Town Recorded That falling into a Jakes or Privy on the Sabbath or Saterday by no means for Reverence of that Day suffer any Helping-hands to come and pluck him out of that unpleasant Hole whereupon the then Earl of Gloucester having some Intilligence of his refractory Sullenness gave a strick Charge that no one should dare to take him out on the Sunday for the Reverence of that Day and so the poor Circumsized-Wrecth perished in that most Loathsom Dugeon through his own folly This was about the year 1259. The next place of note we went to was CICITER which the River Ornus or Churne Rising amongst the Woods near Corbely is very commodious for Mills This Place doth appear to have been of great Antiquity and Renown The Brittish Chronicles shew that this Town was burnt being set on fire by a Company of Sparrows through an Invention devised by on Gurmund certain it is that the Inhabitans shew a Mount below the Town which they report this Gurmund did cast up they corruptly call it Gurmund's Tower Hear is likewise to be seen some ruinated Wall of an old Abby 't is now beautified with a very handsome Church having a high spired Steeple and a Market once a week Many other things are very observeable which will be too tedious to relate We went from hence to FAIREFORD a place well known for its curious Church-Windows in which are most rarely pourtrayed in Painted-glass the whole history of the Bible From hence we went into Oxfordshire Which being once entered into we could not