addict themselues to trauell into forraine Countries 4 Yet in the meane while lest I should seeme too difectiue in my intendments let me without offence in this third though short Booke giue onely a generall view of that Kingdome vpon obseruations from others which to accomplish by mine owne suruey if others should hap to faile and my crazy-aged-body will giue leaue is my chiefe desire knowing the Iland furnished with many worthy remembrances appertaining both vnto them and vs whom God now hath set vnder one Crowne and the rather for that their more Southerne people are from the same Originall with vs the English being both alike the Saxon branches as also that the Picts anciently inhabiting part of that Kingdome were the inborne Britaines and such as thither fled to auoid the Romane seruitude whose names began first to be distinguished vnder Dioclesian the Emperour when they were termed Picts for painting their bodies like the Britaines as such Flauius Vigetius which is more strengthened for that the Northerne Britaines conuerted by Saint Columb are called Britaine Picts 6 Their manner were alike saith Diodorus Siculus and Strabo and their garments not much different as by Sidonius Apollinaris may be gathered where he seemeth rather to describe the moderne Wild-Irish then the antike Gete Notwithstanding this Nations Originall by some hath beene deriued from Scota the supposed Daughter of the Egyptian King Pharoah that nourished Moses afterwards married vnto Gaithelus the son of Cecrops Founder of Athens who first seating in Spaine passed thence into Ireland and lastly into Scotland where his Wife Scota gaue Name to the Nation if we beleeue that they hit the marke who shoot at the Moone 7 But that the Scythians came into Spaine besides the Promontory bearing their Name Scythiâ—um Silius Italicus a Spanyard borne doth shew who bringeth the Concani a Nation therein seated from the Massagetae which were the Scythians and the Sarmatae whom all confesse to haue bin Scythians were the builders as he saith of the Citie Susanna in Spaine And how from Spaine they possessed themselues of Ireland at the time when the Kingdome of Iulah flourished Ninius the Disciple of Eluodugus doth tell and their owne Histories of Nemethus and Delas besides Cisnerus and others doe shew who were first knowne by the name of Scots as is gathered out of Prophyry alledged by S. Ierome in the raigne of Aurelianus the Emperour Gildas calleth them the Irish-Spoilers Giraldus A Scotish Nation descended from Ireland which in regard of them by Eginbardus is termed The I le of Scots by Beda The I le inhabited by the Scots and by other Historians Scotland the great as their seate in Britaine was called Scotland the lesse 9 Scotlands South part in Galloway washed with the warer of Solway Bay toucheth degree 56. of Latitude and thence inbosoming many Loughes and In-lets vpon the East and West extendeth it selfe vnto the degree 60 and 30 minutes whose Longitude is likewise laid betwixt the degree 13 and 19 and the same growne very narrow being so neere the North-Pole as lying directly vnder the hindermost Starres of the Greater Beare 11 And these againe are subdiuided into Sherifdomes Stewardships and â—â—â—wickes for the most part inheritory vnto honourable Families The Ecclesiasticall Gouernment is also subiect vnder two Metropolitan Arch-bishops which are of S. Andrewes the Primate of Scotland and of Glasco whose Iurisdictions are as followeth S. Andrewes Dunkeld Aberdon Murray Dunblan Brechin Rosse Cathanes Orkeney Glasco Galloway Argile Iles. Amongst the things worthy of note of Antiquitie in this Kingdome most memorable was that Fortification drawne from Abercorne vpon the Frith of Edenborough vnto Aleluya how Dunbritton opening vpon the West Sea where Iulius Agricola set the limit of the Romane Empire past which saith Tacitus there was no other bounds of Britaine to be sought for and that here the second Legion Augusta and the 20. Legion Victrix built a part of the Wall certaine Inscriptions there digged vp and reserued at Dunloyr and Cader doe witnesse as also an ancient coped monument of an high and round compasse which as some thinke was a Temple consecrated vnto the God Terâ—â—â— others a Trophey raised by Carausius who fortified this Wall with seauen Castles as Ninius doth declare 13 Ninian a Britaine is recorded to haue conuerted the South-Ficts vnto the Faith of Christ in the raigne of Theodosius the younger and the Church in Galloway bearing his name doth witnes it so likewise in the same age Palladius sent from Pope Coelestine became an Apostle vnto the Scots whose reliques lay enshrined at Fordoâ— in Mernis as was verily supposed but that Christianitie had beene formerly planted in this vttermost Prouince is testified by Tertuilian in saying the Britaines had embraced the faith farther then the Romans had power to follow or persecute them whereupon Peter Monke of 〈◊〉 Spaine concludeth their conuersion to be more ancient then the Southerne Britaines 14 But touching things obseruable for the present surely admirable is the report of the plenty of Cattle Fish and Fowle there abiding their Neat but little yet many in number Fish so plentifull that men in some places for delight on horse-backe hunt Salmons with Speares and a certaine Fowle which some call Soland-Geese spreading so thicke in the ayre that they euen darken the Suns light of whose flesh feathers and oyle the Inhabitants in some parts make great vse and gaine yea and euen of fishes brought by them abundant prouision for diet as also of the stickes brought to make their nests plentifull prouision for fuell 16 No lesse strange then any the fore-mentioned waters but more lamentable is the remembrance of the great inâ—ndation happing by the sodaine rising of Tay. which bare away the Walles and Towne of Berth and with it the Cradle and yong sonne of King William into the Sea wherein the Royall Insant with many others perished the King and his Courtiers hardly escaping the danger with life The ruine of this Towne raised another more famous and more commodiously seated euen Perth since called Saint Iohns-Towne 17 Ilands and Ilets yeelding both beautie and subiection to this Scotish Kingdome are the Westerne the Orknayes and the Shetlands reckoned to be aboue three hundred in number the Inhabitants for the most part vsing the frugalitie of the ancient Scot. 18 The Westerne lying scattered in the Deucalidoman Sea were anciently ruled by a King of their owne whose maintenance was out of their common Coffers and the Regall Authoritie neuer continued in line all succession for to preuent that their Kings were not permitted to haue wiues of their owne but might by their Lawes accompany with other mens as the like Law was in the other parts of Scotland that the Virginitie of all new wiues should be the Landlords prey till King Malcolme enacted that halfe a marke should be paid for redemption The residence of those fore-mentioned Kings was chiefly in Ila Bunals and Iona now Columbkill where as Donald Munrâ—
this Countie where Princes of State haue borne the Titles both of Deuonshire and Excester of which Citie there haue beene entituled Dukes the last of whom namely Henry Holland Grand-childe to Iohn Holland halfe-brother to King Richard the second siding with Lancaster against Edward the fourth whose Sister was his wife was driuen to such misery as Philip Comineus reporteth that he was seene all torne and bare-footed to beg his liuing in the Low Countries and lastly his body was cast vpon the shore of Kent as if he had perished by shipwracke so vncertaine is Fortune in her endowments and the state of man notwithstanding his great birth 9 Religious houses in this Shire built in deuotion and for Idolatry pulled downe were at Excester Torbay Tanton Tauestoke Kirton Ford Hartland Axmister and Berstable CORNWALL CHAPTER X. CORNWALL as Matthew of Westminster affirmeth is so named partly from the forme and partly from her people for shooting it selfe into the Sea like a Horne which the Britaines call Kerne and inhabited by them whom the Saxons named Willia of these two compounded words it became Cornwallia Not to trouble the Reader with the Fable of Corineus cousin to King Brute who in free gift receiued this Countie in reward of his prowesse for wrastling with the Grant Gogmagog and breaking his necke from the Cliffe of Deuer as â—e of Monmouth hath fabuled 2 Touching the temperature of this Countie the ayre thereof is cleansed as with Bellowes by the Billowes that euer worke from oâ—t her enuironing Seas where thorow it becommeth pure and subtill and is made thereby very healthfull but withall so 〈◊〉 and sharâ—e that it is apter to preserue then to recouer health The spring is not so early as in the more Easterne parts yet the Summer with a temperate heat recompenceth his slow fostering of the fruits with their most kindly ripening The Autumne bringeth a somewhat late haruest and the Winter by reason of the Seas warme breath maketh the cold milder then else-where Notwithstanding that Countrey is much subiect to stormy blasts whoâ—e violence hath freedome from the open waues to beat vpon the dwellers at Land leauing many times their houses vncouered 3 The Soile for the most part is lifted vp into many hilles parted a sunder with narrow and short vallies and a shallow earth doth couer their out-side which by a Sea-weede called Orewood and a certaine kinde of fruitfull Sea-sand they make so ranke and batten as is vncredible But more are the riches that out of those hilles are gotten from the Mines of Copper and Tinne which Countrey was the first and continueth the best stored in that Merchandize of any in the world Timaeus the Historian in Plinie reporteth that the Britaine 's fetched their Tinne in wicker-boats stitched about with Leather And Dâ—octoâ—us 〈◊〉 of Augustus Caesars time writeth that the Britaine 's in this part digged Tinne out of 〈◊〉 ground which by Merchants was carried into Gallia and thence to Narborne as it were to a Maâ— Which howsoeuer the Englis-Saxons neglected yet the Normans made great benefit thereof especially Richard brother to King Henry the third who was Earle of Cornwall and by those Tinne 〈◊〉 became exceedingly rich for the inâ—â—â—sions of the Moâ—res hauing stopped vp the Tinne-Mines 〈◊〉 and them in Germany not discouered before the yeare of Christ 1240. these in Cornwall 〈…〉 the want in all parts of the world This Earle made certaine Tinne-Lawes which with liberties and priuiledges were confirmed by Earle Edmund his sonne And in the dayes of King Edâ—â—â— the third the Common-weale of Tinne-workes from one body was diuided into foure and a 〈…〉 of the Stanâ—â—â—rs appointed then Iudge 4 The Borders of this Shire on all parts but the East is bound in with the Sea and had Tamer 〈◊〉 his course but foure miles further to the North betwixt this Countie and Deuonshire it might haue beene rather accounted an Iland then stood with the Mayâ—e Her length is from Launston to the 〈◊〉 containing by measure 60 miles and the broadest part stretching along by the Tamer is fully fortie lâ—sâ—ening thence still lesser like a horne 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Danmonij that spread themselues 〈◊〉 into Deuonshire also by the report of Diodorus Siculus a most courteous and ciuill people and by Mechael their Poet extolled for 〈◊〉 and strength of limâ—â—es nor therein doth he take the libertie that Poets are allowed to adde to the subiect whereof they write but truly reporteth what we see by them performed whom actiuitie surmount many other people When the Heathen Saxons had seated themselues in the best of this Land and forced the Christian Britaines into these rockie parts then did Cornwall abound in Saints vnto whose honor most of the Churches were erected by whose names they are yet knowne and called To speake nothing of Vrsula that Counties Dukes daughter with her company of canonized Virgin-Saints that are now reputed but to trouble the Calendar These Britaine 's in Cornwall so fenced the Countrey and defended themselues that to the raigne of King Athelstant they held out against the Saxons who subduing those Western Parts made Tamar the Bounder betwixt them and his English whose last Earle of the British Bloud was called Candorus 6 But William the Bastard created Robert his halfe-brother by Herlotta their mother the first Earle of the Normans race and Edward the Blacke Prince the ninth from him was by his Father King Edward the third inuested the first Duke of Cornwall which Title euer since hath continued in the Crowne 7 The commodities of this Shire ministred both by Sea and Soile are many and great for besides the abundance of Fish that doe suffice the Inhabitants the Pilchard is taken who in great skuls swarme about the Coast whence being transported to France Spaine and Italie yeeld a yearely reuenew of gaine vnto Cornwall wherein also Copper and Tinne so plentifully grow in the vtmost part of this Promontory that at a low water the veynes thereof lie bare and are seene and what gaine that commoditie begets is vulgarly knowne Neither are these Rockes destitute of Gold nor Siluer yea and Diamonds shaped and pointed Angle-wise and smoothed by Nature her selfe whereof some are as bigge as Walnuts inferiour to the Orient onely in blacknesse and hardnesse Many are the Ports Bayes and Hauens that open into this Shire both safe for arriuage and commodious transport whereof Falmouth is so copious that an hundred Ships may therein ride at Anchor apart by themselues so that from the tops of their highest Masts they shall not see each other and lie most safely vnder the winds 8 This Countie is fruitfull in Corne Cattle Sea-fish and Fowle all which with other prouisions for pleasures and life are traded thorow twentie-two Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Launston and Bodman are the best from which last being the middle of the Shire the Pole is eleuated to the degree of Latitude 50
the onely Vniuersities then in Europe should be erected Schooles for the Hebrew Greeke Arabicke and Chaldean tongues and that Oxford should be the generall Vniuersitie for all England Ireland Scotland and Wales which point was likewise of such weight with the Councell of Constance that from this precedent of Oxford Vniuersitie it was concluded that the English Nation was not onely to haue precedence of Spaine in all Generall Councels but was also to be held equall with France it selfe By which high prerogatiues this of ours hath alwayes so flourished that in the dayes of King Henry the 〈◊〉 thirtie thousand Students were therein resident as Archbishop Armachanus who then liued 〈◊〉 writ and â—…ger then also liuing sheweth that for all the ciuill warres which hindered such 〈◊〉 of quiet studie yet 15000. Students were there remaining whose names saith he were 〈◊〉 in matricula in the matriculation booke About which time Iohn Baltol the father of Baltol King of Scots built a Colledge yet bearing his name Anno 1269. and Walter Merton Bishop of Rochester that which is now called Merton Colledge both of them beautified with buildings and enriched with lands and were the first endowed Colledges for learning in all Christendome And at this present 〈◊〉 sixteene Colledges besides another newly builded with eight Hals and many most 〈…〉 Churches all adorned with most stately buildings and enriched with great endowments noble Libraries and most learned Graduates of all professions that vnlesse it be her sister Cambridge the other nursing breast of this Land the like is not sound againe in the world This Citie is also honoured with an Episcopall See As for the site thereof it is remoued from the Equator in the degree 52. and one minute and from the West by Mercators measure 19. degrees and â—0 minutes 8 As this Countie is happie in the possession of so famous an Academie so is it graced with most Princely Palaces appertaining to the English Crowne whereof Woodstocke is the most ancient and magnificent built to that glory by King Henry the first and enlarged with a Labyrinth of many windings by King Henry the second to hide from his jealous Iuno his intirely beloued Concubine Rosamond Clifford a Damosell of surpassing beautie where notwithstanding followed by a clew of silke that fell from her lap she was surprised and poisoned by Queene Eleanor his wife and was first buried at Godstow Nunnery in the midst of the Quire vnder a Hearse of silke set about with lights whom Hugh Bishop of Lincolne thinking it an vnfit obiect for Virgins deuotion caused to be remoued into the Church yard but those chaste sisters liked so well the memory of that kinde Lady as that her bones they translated againe into their Chappell Bensington is another of his Majesties Mannours built by William de la Pole Duke of Suffolke but now in neglect through the annoâ—ance arising from the waters or marishes adioyning Houses built for deuotion and for abuse suppressed and againe put downe the chiefe in account were Enisham Osney Bruâ—rn Godstow Burchester and Tame besides S. Frideswides and very many other stately Houses of Religion in the Citie GLOCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIII GLOCESTER-SHIRE lyeth bordered vpon the North with Worcester and Warwicke-shires vpon the East with Oxford and Wileshire vpon the South altogether with Sommerset-shire and vpon the West with the Riuer Wye and Hereford-shire 2 The length thereof extended from Bristow vpon the Riuer Auon in her South vnto Clifford vpon another Auon in her North are about fortie eight miles and her broadest part from East to West is from Lechlad vnto Preston containing twentie eight the whole circumference about one hundred thirtie eight miles 3 The forme whereof is somewhat long and narrow the Ayre thereof is pleasant sweet and delectable and for fruitfulnesse of Soile heare Malmesbury and not me The ground of this Shire throughout saith he yeeldeth plentie of Corne and bringeth forth abundance of fruits the one through the naturall goodnesse onely of the ground the other through the diligent manuring and tillage in such wise that it would prouoke the laziest person to take paines Here you may see the High-wayes and Common Lanes clad with Apple trees and Peare trees not ingrafted by the industry of mans hand but growing naturally of their owne accord the ground of it selfe is so inclined to beare fruits and those both in taste and beautie farre exceeding others and will endure vntill a new supply come There is not any Country in England so thicke set with Vineyards as this Prouince is so plentifull of increase and so pleasant in taste The very wines made thereof carry no vnpleasant tartnesse as being little inferiour in sweet verdure to the French wines the houses are innumerable the Churches passing faire and the Townes standing very thicke But that which addeth vnto all good gifts a speciall glory is the Riuer Seuerne then which there is not any in all the Land for Channell broader for Streame swifter or for Fish better stored There is in it a daily rage and fury of waters which I know not whether I may call a Gulfe or Whirle-pole of waues raising vp the sands from the bottome winding and driuing them vpon heapes sometimes ouerflowing her bankes roâ—eth a great way vpon the face of her bordering grounds and againe retyreth as a Conquerour into the vsuall Channell Vnhappy is the Vessell which it taketh full vpon the side but the Water-men well ware thereof when they see that Hydra comming turne the Vessell vpon it and cut thorow the midst of it whereby they checke and auoyd her violence and danger 4 The ancient people that possessed this Prouince were the DOBVNI who spread themselues further into Oxford shire But betwixt the Seuerne and Wye were seated part of SILVRES or Inhabitants of South Wales And vpon what ground I know not let Lawyers dispute it the Inhabitants in some part of this Shire enioy a priuate custome to this day that the Goods and Lands of Condemned Persons fall vnto the Crowne but onely for a yeare and a day and then returne to the next heires contrary to the custome of all England besides 5 The general Commodities of this Shire are Corne Iron and Wools all passing fine besides Pasturage Fruits and Woods which last are much lessened by making of Iron the onely bane of Oke Elme and Beech. 6 These with all other prouisions are traded thorow twenty fiue Market-Townes in this County whereof two are Cities of no small import the first is Glocester from whom the Shire taketh name seated vpon Seuerne neere the middest of this Shire by Antonine the Emperour called Gleuum built first by the Romans and set as it were vpon the necke of the Silures to yoake them where their Leâ—ion called Colonia Gleuum lay It hath beene walled about excepting that part that is defended by the Riuer the ruines whereof in many places appeare and some part yet standing doth well witnesse their strength
Ocean all along pestered with inlets of salt waters and sands which are neither firme nor safe for trauellers as those in the South proued vnto King Iohn who matching North-ward from Northfolke against his disloyall Barons vpon those washes 〈…〉 and carriage by the sodaine returne of the Sea and sofenesse of the sands 5 Her Soile vpon the West and North is abundantly 〈◊〉 pleasant 〈…〉 pasturage areable and meadowing grounds the East and South fenny and 〈…〉 barren but for fowle and fish exceeding any other in the Realme wherein at some times and season of the yeare hath beene taken in nets in August at one draught aboue three thousand Mallards and other Fowles of the like kinde 6 The Shires commodities consist chiefly in Corne Cattle Fish Fowle Flax and Alablaster as also in a Plaister much esteemed of by the Romans for their workes of Imagery and whereof Plinie in his Naturall History maketh mention And the Astroites a precious stone Star-like pointed with fiue beames or rayes anciently esteemed for their vertue in victories vpon the South-west of this County neere Beuer are found not farre thence in our Fathers memory at Harlaxton was ploughed vp a brasen vessell wherein was inclosed a golden Helmet of an ancient fashion set with precious stones which was presented to Kathren of Spaine Wife and Dowager to King Henry the eight 7 This Shire triumpheth in the births of Beauclerke King Henry the first whom Selby brought forth and of King Henry the fourth at Bullingbrooke borne but may as iustly lament for the death of King Iohn herein poysoned by Sâ—non a Monke of Swynsted Abbey and of Queene Eleanor wife to King Edward the first the mirrour of wedlocke and loue to the Commons who at Hardby neere Bullingbrooke his birth place ended her life 8 Trade and commerce for prouision of life is vented thorow thirtie one Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Lincolne the Counties namer is chiefe by Ptolemie and Antonine called Lindum by Beda Linde-collma and by the Normans Nichol. Very ancient it is and hath beene more magnificall as by her many ouerturned ruines doth appeare and farre more populous as by Demesdayes Booke is seene where it is recorded that this Citie contained a thousand and seauen Mansions and nine hundred Burgesses with twelue Lage-men hauing Sac and Soc. And in the Normans time saith Malmesbury it was one of the best peopled Cities of England being a place for trafficke of Merchandize for all commerce by Land or Sea Herein King Edward the third ordained his Staple for the Mart of Wools Leather and Lead and no lesse then fiftie Parish Churches did beautifie the same but now containeth onely fifteene besides the Cathedrall Some ruines yet remaines both of Frieries and Nunneries who lye now buried in their owne ashes and the Citie conquered not by warre but by time and very age and yet hath she not escaped the calamitie of sword as in the time of the Saxons whence Arthur enforced their Host the like also did Edmund to the destroying Danes and by the Normans it suffered some dammage where King Stephen was vanquished and taken prisoner and againe by the third Henry that assaulted and wan it from his rebellious Barons By fire likewise it was fore defaced wherein not onely the buildings were consumed but withall many men and women in the violence thereof perished as also by an Earth-quake her foundation was much weakened and shaken wherein the faire Cathedrall Church dedicated to the Virgin of Virgins was rent in peeces The gouernment of this Citie is committed yearely to a Maior tow Sheriffes twelue Aldermen in Scarlet a Sword a Hat of Estate a Recorder Sword-bearer and foure Sergeants with Maces whose situation on a sleepe hill standeth for Longitude in the degree 20. 10. scruples the Pole eleuated for Latitude from the degree 53. and 50. scruples 9 Much hath beene the deuotion of Princes in building religious houses in this Countie as at Crowland Lincolne Markeby Leyborne Grenfeld Aluingham Newnersby Grymmysby Newsted Elsham Stayâ—feld Syxhyll Torkesey Bryggerd Thorneholme Nuncotton Fosse Heyings Axholme I le Goykewell S. Michaels neere Stamford Swynâ—shead Spalding Kirkested c. 10 Commotions in this Shire were raysed the eight and twentieth of King Henry the Eight where twentie thousand making insurrection violently sware certaine Lords and Gentlemen to their Articles But no sooner they heard of the Kings power comming but that they dispersed themselues and sued for pardon And againe in the third yeare of King Edward the Sixt in case of Inclosuâ—es Lincolne rose in seditious manner as did they of Cornwall Deuon-shire York-shire and Norfolke but after some flaughters of their chiefest men were reduced to former obedience NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXII NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE from Nottingham her chiefest Towne hath the name and that somewhat softned from the Saxons Snoddenzaham for the many Dennes or Caues wrought in her Rocks and vnder ground lyeth bordered vpon the North North west with York-shire vpon the East a good distance by Trent is parted froM and with Lincoln-shire altogether confined the South with Leicester-shire and the West by the Riuer Erwash is seperated from Darby-shire 2 For forme long and Ouall-wise doubling in length twice her bredth whose extreames are thus extended and distance obserued From Finingley North to Sleanford in the South are thirtie eight English miles her West part from Teuersall to Besthorp in the East are little more then nineteene whose circumference draweth much vpon one hundred and ten miles 3 The Ayre is good wholesome and delectable the Soile is rich sandy and clayie as by the names of that Counties diuisions may appeare and surely for Corne and Grasse so fruitfull that it secondeth any other in the Realme and for Water Woods and Canell Coales abundantly stored 4 Therein groweth a Stone softer then Alablaster but being burnt maketh a plaister harder then that of Paris wherewith they flower their vpper roomes for betwixt the Ioysts they lay onely long Bulrushes and thereon spread this Plaister which being throughly dry becomes most solide and hard so that it seemeth rather to be firme stone then mortar and is trod vpon without all danger In the West neere Worksop groweth plentie of Liquorice very delicious and good 5 More South in this Shire at Stoke in the Raigne of King Henry the seauenth a great battle was fought by Iohn De-la-Pole Earle of Lincolne which Richard the Vsurper had declared his heire apparant but Richard losing his life and De-la Pole his hopes in seeking here to set vp a Lambert fell downe himselfe and at Newarke after many troubles King Iohn got his peace with the end of his life 6 Trade and commerce for the Counties prouision is frequented in eight Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Nottingham is both the greatest and best a Towne seated most pleasant and delicate vpon a high hill for buildings stately and number of faire streets surpassing and surmounting many other Cities and for a spacious and most faire
West hath not obstinately ceased from time to time to flash and mangle it and with his fell irruptions and boysterous Tides to deâ—oure it Another thing there is not vnworthy to be recommended to memory that in this Shire not far from Fournesse Fellâ—s the greatest standing water in all England called Winander-Mere lieth stretched out for the space of ten miles of wonderfull depth and all paued with stone in the bottome and along the Sea-side in many places may be seene heapes of sand vpon which the people powre water vntill it recouer a 〈◊〉 humour which they afterwards boile with Turffes till it become white salt 8 This Country as it is thus on the one side freed by the naturall resistance of the Sea from the force of Inuasions so is it strengthned on the other by many Castles and fortified places that take away the opportunitie of making Roades and Incursions in the Country And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons crueltie so was it the last and longest that was subdued vnder the West-Saxons Monarchie 9 In this Prouince our noble Arthur who died laden with many trophics of honour is reported by Ninius to haue put the Saxons to flight in a memorable battle neere Duglasse a little Brooke not farre from the Towne of Wiggin But the attempts of warre as they are seuerall so they are vncertaine for they made not Duke Wade happy in his successe but returned him an vnfortunate vnterpriser in the Battle which he gaue to Arduiph King of Northumberland at Billangho in the yeare 798 So were the euents vncertaine in the Ciuill Warres of Yorke and Lancaster for by them was bred and brought forth that bloudy diuision and fatall strife of the Noble Houses that with variable successe to both parties for many yeares together molested the peace and quiet of the Land and defiled the earth with bloud in such violent manner that it exceeded the horrour of those Ciuill Warres in Rome that were betwixt Mariuâ— and Scylla Pompey and Caesar Octauius and Antony or that of the two renowned Houses Valoys and Eurbon that a long time troubled the State of France for in the diuision of these two Princely Families there were thirteene Fields sought and three Kings of England one Prince of Wales twelue Dukes one Marques eighteene Earles one Vicount and three and twentie Barons besides Knights and Gentlemen lost their liues in the same Yet at last by the happy marriage of Henry the seauenth King of England next heire to the House of Lancaster with Elizabeth daughter and heire to Edward the Fourth of the House of Yorke the white and red Roses were conioyned in the happy vniting of those two diuided Families from whence our thrice renowned Soueraigne Lord King Iames by faire sequence and succession doth worthily enioy the Diâ—deme by the benefit of whose happy gouernment this Countie Palatine of Lancaster is prosperous in her Name and Greatnesse YORKE-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXVIII AS the courses and confluents of great Riuers are for the most part fresh in memory though their heads and fountaines lie commonly vnknowne so the latter knowledge of great Regions are not traduced to obliuion though perhaps their first originals be obscure by reason of Antiquitie and the many reuolutions of times and ages In the delineation therefore of this great Prouince of Yorkshire I will not insist vpon the narration of matters neere vnto vs but succinctly run ouer such as are more remote yet neither so sparingly as I may seeme to diminish from the dignitie of so worthy a Country nor so prodigally as to spend time in the superfluous praising of that which neuer any as yet dispraised And although perhaps it may seeme a labour vnnecessary to make relation of ancient remembrances either of the Name or Nature of this Nation especially looking into the difference of Time it selfe which in euery age bringeth forth diuerse effects and the dispositions of men that for the most part take lesse pleasure in them then in divulging the occurrents of their owne times yet I hold it not vnfit to begin there from whence the first certaine direction is giuen to proceede for euen of these ancient things there may be good vse made eitherby imitation or way of comparison as neither the repetition nor the repetition thereof shall be accounted impertinent 2 You shall therefore vnderstand That the Countie of Yorke was in the Saxon tongue called Ebona-yeyne and now commonly Yorkeshire farre greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles then any Shire of England Shee is much bound to the singular loue and motherly caâ—â— of Nature in placing her vnder so temperate a clime that in euery measure she is 〈…〉 If one part of her be stony and a sandy barren ground another is fertile and richly adorned with Corne-fields If you here finde it naked and destitute of Woods you shall see it there shadowed with Forrests full of trees that haue very thicke 〈◊〉 sending forth many fruitfull and profitable branches If one place of it be Moorish Mirie and vnpleasant another makes a free tender of delight and presents it selfe to the eye full of beautie and contentiue varietie 3 The Bishopricke of Durham fronts her on the North-side and is seperated by a continued course of the Riuer Tees The Germaine Sea lieth sore vpon her Bast side beating the shores with her boisterous waues and billowes The West part is bounded with Lancashire and Westmerland The South-side hath Cheshire and Darbishire friendly Neighbours vnto her with the which she is first inclosed then with Nottingham and with Lincolne-shires after diuided with that famous Arme of the Sea Humber Into which all the Riuers that water this Country emptie themselues and pay their ordinary Tributes as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune for all the watery Pensions of this Prouince 4 This whole Shire being of it selfe so spatious for the more easie and better ordering of her ciuill gouernment is diuided into three parts which according to three quarters of the world are called The West-Riding The East-Riding and The North-Riding West-Riding is for a good space compassed with the Riuer Ouse with the bounds of Lancashire and with the South limits of the Shire and beareth towards the West and South East-Riding bends it selfe to the Ocean with the which and with the Riuer Derment she is inclosed and lookes into that part where the Sunne rising and shewing forth his beames makes the world both glad and glorious in his brightnesse North-Riding extends it selfe Northward 〈◊〉 in as it were with the Riuer Tees and Derwent and a long race of the Riuer Ouse The length of this Shire extended from Haâ—thill in the South to the mouth of Tees in the North are neere vnto seauentie miles the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-castle vpon the Riuer 〈◊〉 is fourescore miles the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles 5 The Soile of this County for the
certaine vault or little Chappell vnder the ground wherein he was supposed to haue beene buried might beget much wonder and admiration but that L. Zius confirmeth that in ancient times they had a custome to preserue light in Sepulchres by an artificiall resoluing of gold into a liquid and farry substance which should continue bruning a long time and for many ages together THE BISHOPRICKE OF DURHAM CHAPTER XXXIX THe Bishopricke of Durham containeth those parts and Towne-ships that 〈…〉 the Reuer Tees and Derwent and all along the German-Sea 〈…〉 on the North witâ— Northumberland and their Iurisdictions parted by the 〈…〉 touched by Cumberland Westmorland and from 〈…〉 Riuer Tees and by the same water on her South from Yorke-shire 〈…〉 By the german-German-Sea 2 The forme thereof is triangle 〈…〉 for from her South 〈◊〉 vnto the West-point are about thirtie miles from thence to the North-east and 〈…〉 are likewise as many and her base along the Sea-shore are twentie 〈…〉 Circumference about one hundred and three miles 3 The ayre is sharpe and very piercing and would be more 〈◊〉 not that the 〈◊〉 from the German-Seas did helpe much to dissolue 〈◊〉 and snow and the store of coales therein growing and gotten doe warme the body and keepe backe the cold which 〈…〉 besides their owne vse doth yeeld great commodities vnto this Prouince by trade thereof 〈◊〉 other parts 4 For Soile it consisteth much alike of Pastures 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 grounds the East is the richest and most champion the South more moorish but 〈…〉 without either grasse or graine notwithstanding 〈…〉 with as great gaine both in rearing vp Cattle and 〈…〉 groweth so neere to the vpper 〈…〉 wheeles doe turne vp the same Some hold their substance to be a clammie kinde of clay hardned with heat abounding in the earth and so becomming concocted is nothing else but Bitumen for proofe whereof these Coales haue both the like smell and operation of Bitumen for being sprinkled with water they burne more vehemently but with oyle are quite extinguished and put out 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne vnto Ptolemie were the Brigantes of whom we haue spoken in the Generall of Yorkeshire they being subdued by the romans after whom the Saxons made it a part of their Northumberlands Kingdom at first a Prouince belonging to the Deirians and enioyed by Ella their first King afterwards inuaded by the Danes and lastly possessed by the Normans whose site being so neere vnto Scotland hath many times felt their fury and hath beene as a Buckler betwixt them and the English for which cause the Inhabitants haue certaine freedomes and are not charged with seruice as other Counties are so that this with Westmorland Cumberland and Northumberland are not diuided into hundreds in those Parliament Rolles whence I had the rest which want I must leaue for others to supply 6 Ouer this Countie the Bishops thereof haue had the Royalties of Princes and the Inhabitants haue pleaded priuiledge not to passe in seruice of warre ouer the Riuer of Tees or Tyne whose charge as they haue alledged was to keepe and defend the corps of S Cuthbert their great adored Saint and therefore they termed themselues The holy-werk-folkes And the repute of this Cuthbert and his supposed defence against the Scots was such that our English Kings in great deuotion haue gone in pilgrimage to visit his Tombe and haue giuen many large possessions to his Church such were King Egfred Aelfred and Guthrun the Dane Edward and Athelstan Monarch of England and zealous Cannte the greatest of all who came thither bare-footed and at Cuthberts Tombe both augmented and confirmed their Liberties This Saint then of nothing made Durham become great and William the Conquerour of a Bishopricke made it a County Palatine at that time William Careleph Bishop of the Diocesse pulled downe the old Church which Aldwin had built and with sumptuous cost laid the foundations of a new wherein S. Cuthberts Shrine in the vacancy of the Bishops was the Keeper of the Castle-keyes In the West of this Church and place called Gallile the Marble Tombe of venerable Beda remaineth who was borne at Iaerro in this Countie and became a Monke at Weremouth whose painefull industâ—es and light of learning in those times of darknesse are wonderfull as the volumes which he wrote doe well declare And had the idle Monkes of England imployed their times after his example their Founders expectations had not beene frustrate nor those foundations so easily ouerturned But the reuenge of sinne euer following the actions of sinnes dissolued first the largenesse of this Counties liberties vnder the raigne of King Edward the First and since hath shaken to peices those places herein erected vnder the raigne of King Henry the eight such were Durham Sherborne Stayndrâ—p Iarro â—eremouth and Egleton all which felt the reward of their idlenesse and wrath of him that is jealous of his owne honour 7 Things of rare note obserued in this Shire are three pits of a wonderfull depth commonly called the Hell-Kettles which are adioyning neere vnto Darlington whose waters are some what warme These are thought to come of an Earth-quake which happened in the yeare of Grace 1179. whereof the Chrenicle of Tin-mouth maketh mention whose record is this On Christmas day at Oxeâ—hall in the Territorie of Darlington within the Bishopricke of Durham the ground heaued vp aloft like vnto an high Tower 〈…〉 all that day as it were vnmoueable vntill the euening 〈◊〉 then fell with so horrible a noise that it made all the neighbour dwellers sore afraid and the earth swallowed it vp and made in the same place a deepe pit which is there to be seene for a testimonie vnto this day 8 Of no lesse admiration are certaine stones lying within the Riuer Weere at Butterbre neere Durham from whose sides at the Ebbe and low water in the Summer issueth a certaine salt reddish water which with the Sunne waxeth white and growing into a thicke substance becommeth a necessary salâ— to the vse of the by-dwellers 9 And places of elder times had in aâ—rount by the Romans were Benonium now Binchester and Câ—ndereum Chester in the street where their monies haue beene digged vp and at Codercuâ—â— so much that Egelrik Bishop of Durham was therewith made exceeding rich VVESTMORLAND CHAPTER XL. VVESTMORLAND by some late Latine Writers is câ—lled Westmaria and Westmorlandia by some later Westmoria and in our English Tongue Westmorland It came to be thus named in our language by the situation which in euery part is so plenteously full of Moores and high hils teaching one to another that Westmorland with vs is nothing else but a Westerne moorish Country Hauing on the West and North-side Cumberland on the South-part Lanca-shire on the East-side Yorkeshire and the Bishopricke of Durham 2 The length thereof extended from Burton in her South to Kirkland in her North-part is 30. miles the broadest part from East to West is from the Riuer Eden to Dunbal
which are seene to racke much lower then the top of that Hill As strange tales are told of the Meer Llynsauathan two miles by East from Breknock which at the breaking of her frozen Iâ—e maketh a fearefull sound like vnto thunder In which place as is reported sometimes stood afaire Citie which was swallowed vp in an Earthquake and resigned her stone-wals vnto this deepe and 〈◊〉 water whither vnto this day leadeth all the wayes in this Shire which as leâ—â—â—ed Cambdinâ—â—â—ctureth â—â—ctureth might be that Louentrium which Ptolemy in this tract placeth and the most confirmed 〈…〉 name adioyning being also called Leuenny which Riuer also passeth through this 〈…〉 the same streame and no greater then wherewith she first entred in 5 The Townes for Commerce are Hay Bealt and Breknock two of them vnfortunate of their former greatnesse whom warres and sedition haue defaced aâ— least downe Hay vpon Wye and Dulas pleasant for situation in the rebellion of Owen Glendower◠〈◊〉 was diswalled depopulated and burnt in whose foundations for new repaires many Romane Coines haue beene found and thereby thought to be the seate of their Legions and Buelth now Bealt though of good frequencie yet not so great as when Ptolemie obserued her position for graduation who calleth it Buleum Silurum neither when it with the Country was possessed by Aurelius Ambrosius by whose permission Pascentius the sonne of Vortiger ruled all as Ninius writeth nor yet as of later times when Leolin the last Prince of the Britaines was therein betrayed and slaine 6 Breknock the Shire-Towne for buildings and beautie retaineth a better regard whose walles in Ouall-wise are both strong and of good repaire hauing three Gates for entrance with tenne Towres for defence and is in circuit six hundred and fortiepaces about vpon whose west part a most sumptuous and stately Castle is seated the like whereof is not commonly seene whose decayes approaching doe increase her ruines daily and in the end is feared will be her fall This Towne is seated vpon the meeting of two Riuers Houthy and Vske whose yearely gouernment is committed to two Bailiffes fifteene Aldermen two Chamberlaines two Constables a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants their Attendants hauing the Poles eleuation in 52 21. minutes of Latitude and for Longitude is placed in the 16. and 32. minutes as the Mathematicians doe measure them 7 This Shire is strengthned with â—ine Castles diuided into sixe Hundreds wherein are seated three Market-Townes and fiftie 〈◊〉 Parish-Churches CARDIGAN-SHIRE CHAPTER V. CARDIGAN-SHIRE in the Welsh called Sire Aber-Tiui is parted on the North from Merioneth-shire with the Riuer Doui by the Plinillimon hilles from Montgomery-shire in part of her East and the rest from Breknock-shire with the water Towy and with Tyuy altogether on the South from Caermarden-shire the West is wholly washed with the Irish Sea 2 The forme thereof is horne-like bowing compasse long and narrow and growing wider still towards the North so that from Cardigan the Shire-Towne and vttermost point in the South vnto the Riuer Doui her farthest North bounder are thirtie two miles and from the head of Carwen in the East to Aberysthwyth on her West the broadest part in the Shire are onely fifteene the whole in circumference is one hundred and three miles 3 The Aire is open and somewhat piercing the soyle is hillie and Wales-like vneuen yet more plaine and champion towards the Sea then in the East or North of the Land For besides that great and high hill called Plinilâ—â—on a continuall range of lesser doth shoote along yeelding in their vallies both goodly rich Pastures and very large Pooles which being assisted with Springs from the Rockes doe branch themselues as veines in the bod◠〈◊〉 make fruitfull their passages vnto the Sea In Tyuy one of these as Giraldus 〈…〉 Beauer hath beene found a creature liuing both by land and water whose stones the 〈…〉 in great price His fore-feete are like vnto a dogge but the hinder whole skinne as is the 〈…〉 the dogge-like serue him on shore for to run and the Goose-like as Oraes giue him swift 〈◊〉 in swimming this taile broad and gristly he vseth as a sterne wherewith on the sudden 〈◊〉 diuert his swift floating course But this creature in these parts a long time hath not beene seene whose roome we may well say the Salmon hath possessed who still coueting into fresh water Riuers at their downe-right falles vseth this policie He bendeth himselfe backward and taketh his taile in his mouth and with all his strength vnloosing his circle on the sudden as a lath let goe mounteth vp before the fall of the streame whereupon such water-falles are called the Salmons leape and in these Riuers many such Salmons are caught 4 The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle Sea-sowle and Fish Corne sufficient but of Woods some scarcitie and at the head of Istwyd are certaine veines of Lead a merchandize of no meane regard or wealth 5 The ancient people that possessed this Prouince were the Dimetae by Ptolemie branched thorow the Tracts of Caermarden Penbrooke and this Shire who in their struglings against the Romans did not a little relie vpon Caractacus their most warlike King from whose name though vnlikely some will haue the Shire called Cardigan yet lastly felt the fortune of subiection with the rest when Iulius Frontinus warred with these Mountaines Scarce had the Normans setled their Kingdome in Britaine but that they assailed this Countie as well to enioy so farre a Possession as to secure those Seas from any inuasion against them so that Rufus first wrested from the Welshmen the maritime Coasts and Henry the first gaue the whole Countie to Gilbert de 〈◊〉 6 This Giâ—bert fortified 〈◊〉 the Shire-Towne with a Wall and strong Castle whose aged lineaments doe to this day 〈…〉 industry both of nature and Art for the Towne is seated vpon a steepe banke her South 〈◊〉 guarded with the deepe Riuer Tyny and passable no way but by a bridge vnder the Castle They 〈◊〉 taketh the aduantage of the rising rocks and circulate the Towne euen round about The Castle is â—â—â—gher built vpon a Rocke both spatious and faire had not stormes impaired her beautie and time 〈◊〉 her carkasse a very Anatomie The walles range as thou seest and are indifferent for repaire hauing three wayes for entrance and containe in compasse six hundred and fourescore pases whose position for Latitude is set in the degree 52. 33 minutes from the North-pole and for Longitude from the first West-point by Mercator in the degree 15. and 10. minutes 7 This Shire as it is little in circuit so accordingly is besprinkled with Towne-ships whereof foure onely haue the trade of Markets neither finde I other remembrance of religious foundations but at Cardigan Istradfleet and at Llan-Badern-Vaur where sometimes was seated an Episcopall See which as Houeden writeth was decayed many yeares since when the people had wickedly slaine their Pastour And yet Llan-Deui-breui built
fortified with a Wall and Castle in the raigne of King Rufus when he and his Norman Knights had ouercome Rhese the Prince of these parts and thrust out Iestine from his lawfull possession This Towne he made his owne Seat and Court of Iustice enioyning his Consorts to giue ayde to this honour and to hold their portions in vassallage of him Strong was the Castle as by the trust therein reposed may well appeare where the youngest brother Beautlark kept captiue the eldest Curthose both of them sonnes to the Conquerour the space of twentie sixe yeares This Castle is large and in good repaire whence the Towne-wall went both South and East to the Riuers side thorow which foure Gates enter into the foure windes and containe in compasse nine hundred and twentie pases and along the Riuer a sure defence vpon her West side three hundred more so that the Towne containeth in circuit twelue hundred and fourescore pases But as the Taue is a friend to the Towne in making a Key for arriuage of shipping so is she a foe to S. Maries Church in the South with vndermining her foundations and threatning her fall The Towne is gouerned by a Maior yearely elected out of twelue Aldermen assisted with other twelue Burgesses a Towne-Clerke foure Câ—â—stables and two Sergeants with Maces whose site is obserued from the North-Starre to lie in the degree of Latitude 51. and 49. scruples and from the first point in the West 16. and 53 scrupâ—â—â— 5 In the same graduation almost is sited the â—itie Landaf wherein is a Castle and Cathedrall Church dedicated to S. Telean Bishop of the same without any other memorable matter worthy the speaking of 6 ofâ—â—aldus â—â—aldus who affirmeth that in a Rocke or Cliffe vpon the Sea side and Iland Barry lying neere the South-â—â—st point of this County is beard out of a little Chinke let him take heed what he saith the noise as it 〈◊〉 of Smiths at their worke one whiles the blowing of Bellowes to increase the heat then the stroakes of the Hammer and sound of the 〈◊〉 sometimes the noise of the Grind-stone in grinding of Iron tooles then the hissing sparkes of Steele-gads as they flie from their beating with the puffing noise of flames in a Furnace And whether this is the place whereof Clemens Alexandrinus speaketh I determine not where in his writings he hath these words They that haue recorded Histories saith he doe say that in the I le of Britaine there is a certaine Hole or Caâ—e vnder the bottome of an Hill and on the top thereof a gaping Chinke into the which when the winde is gathered and tossed to and froâ— in the wombe or concauitie thereof there is heard aboue a sound of Cymbals for the winde being driuen backe from his hole is forced to make a loud sound at her vent 7 More Westward from hence vpon the Riuer Ogmore and neere vnto Newton in a sandie plaine about an hundred pases from Seuerne there springeth a Well though not of the clearest water where at the flowing and fulnesse of the Sea can hardly any water be gotten but at the ebbe and fall of tyde it walloweth vp amaine The cause may be as Polybius reports of the like at Cadys Wherein the windie ayre when it is depriued of his wonted issues forcibly returneth shutting and stopping vp the passages and veines of the Spring whereby 〈◊〉 waters are kept in But contrariwise when the surface thereof is void and emptie of water the veinâ—â— of the Source or Spring are vnstopped and set free which then boileth vp in great abundance 8 And vpon the same shoare more 〈◊〉 and by West on the top of a hill called Minyd-Margan is erected a Monument inscribed witâ—â— strange Character and as strange a conceit held thereof by the by-dwellers whose opinions are possessed that if any man reade the same he shall shortly after die This Shire as it is the furthest 〈◊〉 of South-Wales and lay open to forraine inuasion so was is fortified with twentie-fiue stronge Castles whereof times and stormes haue deuoured the most such were Barry Saint Doneitis Denâ—â—â—owis Morlashe Menesâ—e Loghoâ— Llanddeny Llanquian Oxwich Oystermouth Ognior Pile Porkery Peâ—â—arth Winston Newcastle Caerfly Coche Peullys 〈◊〉 Kenfeage Tallaâ—â—â— Treer and Cothy Neither was the Countie so ill seated for sufficiency of life or barren of graine but that therein were planted places for diuine pietie such were Neath Margan and Caerdif besides the Episcopall See of Landaâ— which last still remaineth the other three suppressed among the fall of their like vnder King Henry the eight MONMOVTH-SHIRE CHAPTER VIII MONMOVTH-SHIRE from Monmouth Towne and that from mounowe-Mounowe-water bearing name is altogether inclosed on the North and is separated from Hereford-shire with the same Riuer vpon the East both it and Wye diuides this County from Glocester-shire The South-side wholly is washed by the Seuerne Sea and some of her West part by Rempney is parted from Glamorgan and the rest lyeth bordered vpon by Breknock-shire 2 The forme thereof is Scallop-wise both long and broad shooting her North point to Llantony and her South to the fall of Rempney betwixt which two are twentie foure English miles and from Chepstowe East to Blanagwent West are not altogether nineteene miles the whole in circuit draweth somewhat neere to seauentie seauen miles 3 The Ayre is temperate healthfull an◠〈◊〉 the soile is hilly wooddy and rich all places fruitfull but no place barren The Hils are 〈◊〉 vpon by Cattle and Sheepe the Vallies are laden with Corne and Grasse neuer vngratefull of 〈◊〉 bandmans paines nor makes frustrate his hope of expected increase whose springs abundantly â—sing in this Countie with many streames doe fatten the soile euen from side to side 4 Anciently the Silâ—â—es inhabited this Shire whose chiefe Citie by the Emperour Antonine is named Venta Silarum by the Welsh Caer-went and was by Tathâ— the British Saint made an Academiâ— and a diuine place for worship So like wise Caer-lion now once Isca was where the second Roman Legion called Augusta lay as by their Coines Altars Tables and Inscriptions there found and daily therein digged vp doth euidently appeare By the report of Giraldus in this Citie was the Court of great Arthur whither the Romane Embassadours resorted vnto him and as Alexander Elsebinsis writeth therein was a Schoole of two hundred Philosophers skilfull in Astronomie and other Arts. Which is the more credible for that Aâ—phibalus S. Albans instructer was therein borne and Iulius and Aaron two noble Proto-Martyrs of great Britaine in this Citiereceiued the Crowne of Martyrdome where their bodies were also interred But as all things finde their fatall period so this Citie for beautie circuit and magnificall respect is laid in the ruines of her owne decay neither may any more lament the losse of glory then Munmouths Castle which captiue-like doth yeeld to conquering Time Her downe-cast stones from those lostie turrets doe shew what beautie once it bare standing mounted