caue curiously carued and one of the sinest old monuments I did euer see Hence we passed to s Baie an ancient Citie and for the sweetenesse preferred to Rome by Horace Nullus in vrbe locus Baijs praelucet am aenit No place of Rome sweete Baie doth excell The situation of this Citie is most sweete but all the houses neere the shoare are drowned except the Baths and the houses vpon the mountaine are all ruined neither doe any dwel here but some few poore and miserable people such as the husbandmen of Italy are commonly yet these ruines shew the pride and magnificence of that old time This Citie is said to haue the name of a friend of Vlisses there buried Here bee the foresaid ruines of Caligula his Bridge which I said doe lie on this side the Creeke Here we did see the stately ruines of two Senators houses where the excellent pictures did yet remaine vpon the highest roofe They shewed vs a tree as they said turned into a stone and the ruines of the Temples of Diana and Venus From hence we walked towards the Mountaine Misenus and neere the dead sea first wee came to t a hill made hollow by the building vnder it which is vulgarly called of the number of the roomes Cento camerelle that is One hundred little chambers Leander saith that it was a Cesterne to keepe fresh-water whereof the Romans had great store in these parts whether they came certaine seasons of the yeere to recreate themselues and all this Territorie on both sides neere this Creeke or Bay of the Sea are so full of ruined Palaces Temples and Sepulchers as a man would say they were not seuerall Villages but one great Citie This said building is large and foure square and sustained by foure rankes of foure square pillars into which wee were let down at a hole in the earth Round about the entrance there were many Celles almost foure square and of an vnequall bignesse parted with enteries winding about and because the building is intricate some thinke it was a Laberinth v The ruines of a stately building are opposite to this into which wee descended by fortie staires it hath no windowes but all the light comes in at crannies and it hath foure rankes of fouresquare pillars to beare vp the arched roofe Euery ranke hath twelue pillars and in all they be fortie eight and each one is twelue foote distant from the other and twelue foote high to which if you ad the high roofe of the building the roome is twenty fiue foot high which I beheld not without being amazed at the magnisicence of the Romans in these buildings This house is little broken downe and the plaister of the wall is so hard as I could not pierce it with my dagger and it is vulgarly called la piscina mirabile It is certaine that the Romans of old bestowed great charge in building places for the keeping of fish and some thinke this was built to that purpose by Antonia the wife of Drusus others say by Hortensius but Leander saith that it was built to keepe fresh water and he with other Writers doth iudge it a stately monumēt of the Pallace of Lucullus built neere Baie which he proueth out of Plutarch who mentions one Pallace of Lucullus in his foresaid village for his Summer dwelling and another here neere Baie for his Winter abode And Tacitus saith that the Emperour Tiberius foreseeing his death and often changing places at last came to this place and here died It were an infinite worke if I should seuerally describe the Pallaces of Marius Caesar and Lucullus I will not omit that our Guides I know not how credibly shewed vs certaine round w fields compassed round with Mountaines and at this time plowed which they said were the Elisian fields We are now come to the x Misene Promontary which hath the name of Misenus friend to Eneas buried here or rather by him sacrificed to the gods at the Lake Auernus as is aforesaid Vpon the top of this Mountaine was a Tower of old called Faro vpon which a light was hung for a sea-marke Vnder the Mountaine especially where it growes narrow and vpon three sides is washed by the Sea there be so many houses vnder the earth as the pillers thereof seeme onely to beare vp the Mountaine and among them there is one called Grotta Traconara of the winding passages therein which by the ruines now remaining seemes to haue been a magnificent worke and this Leander thinkes to haue been built to keepe fresh water Right opposite to this mountaine is the Y Cape of Minerua and neere that lies the Iland K Caprea or Capre easie to be seene by the white and high cliffes and famous by the cruelty and more then goatish lusts of the Emperour Tiberius when he with-drew himselfe out of the sight of the Senate and people of Rome to liue there in solitude This Iland hath no Hauen neither can little boates land there whereupon being safe from Pirates it was held a place of pleasure in the time of Augustus The creeke of the sea comming in betweene these two foresaid Promontories was of old called Sinus Cratera Vpon the side of the mountaine Misene lying towards Cuma is a lake of salt water called the dead sea into which water fals our of the creeke of rozzols and it was of old more large For Suetonius writes that Augustus kept one Nauy in this Lake and another at Rauenna to guard the vpper and lower sea And Tacitus writes that his successour Tiberius kept two Nauies in those places At this day the Lake is parted from the Sea with a banke some fifty paces broad and it is almost round in forme and some two miles broad and Plutarke writes that Lucullus made this Lake to keepe fishes therein From this mountaine Misene we walked vpon the Sea shore fiue very short miles and came to the ruines of the old City Z Cuma built by the Calcedons of the Greek Iland Euboia the oldest City in all Italy and it is said to haue had the name of a good presage from the Captaines of the Nauy or a woman great with child of that name It was seated of old vpon a hill neere the sea shore and yet on the side towards the land the wals are standing but the daughter hath deuoured the mother for the increase of Naples was the decrease of Cuma yet the ruines still remaine and vpon the top of the hill was the Temple of Apollo of which Virgil writes At pius AEneas arces quihus altus Apollo c. But good AEneas high Apollees Towers c. And there is yet an ancient Temple partly ruined A triumphall Arch is yet vnbroken but some say the foresaid Temple was consecrated to Hercules Of old Aristodamus did lead the forces of Cuma and after his victory they made him their Prince and Liuy writes that Tarqutnius the proud being banished came to him and there died Historians write
Sea Euxinus which they say is called the Black Sea of many shipwracks therein happening And this Tower is sixteene miles distant from the Citie B Here is a marble pillar erected vpon a Rocke compassed with the sea which they call the pillar of Pompey and therein many passengers for their memory vse to ingraue their names And here are innumerable flocks of Sea foule and of many kindes wherewith hee that is skilfull to shoote in his Peece may abundantly furnish himselfe C Here is the Euxine or black Sea D E Here lie two strong Castles one in Europe the other in Asia some eight miles distant from the Citie built to defend the Hauen from the assault of the enemies by Sea on that side and the Garrison there kept searcheth the ships comming from the Citie that no slaues or prohibited goods be carried therein neither can any ship passe vnsearched except they will hazard to be sunck Finally the great Turke sends his chiefe prisoners to be kept in these strong Castles F Here great ships vse to cast anchor at their first arriuall till they bee vnloaded and here againe they ride at anchor to expect windes when they are loaded and ready to depart G All along this banke and the opposite side for a large circuit the greatest ships vse to lie when they are vnloaded and they lie most safely and close by the shore fastaned by cables on land H Here lyes the old Citie built by the Genoesi of Italy called Gallata by the Turks and Perah by the Greekes of the situation beyond the Channell It is now accounted a Suburbe of Constantinople and is seated vpon a most pleasant hill wherein for the most part liue Christians aswell subiects as others and the Ambassadours of England France and Venice only the Emperours Ambassadour must lye within the Citie more like a pledge of peace then a free Ambassadour and very few Turkes liue here mingled with the Christians The situation of Gallata as I said is most pleasant Formerly the Ambassadours of England were wont to dwell vpon the Sea-shore in the Plaine and their Pallace is not farre distant from this note K but Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour at this time dwelt vpon the top of the hill in a faire house within a large field and pleasant gardens compassed with a wall And all Gallata is full of very pleasant gardens and compassed with pleasant fields whereof some towards the land furthest from the Sea are vsed for the buriall of Turkes I Here a little Creeke of the Sea is compassed with walles and buildings within which the Gallies of the great Turke lie in safety and there be fit places to build Gallies and store-houses for all things thereunto belonging K Here is the chiefe passage ouer the water called Tapano where a man may passe for two aspers All along this Sea banke lye very many great Gunnes as vpon the Tower Wharfe at London and here the fishers land and sell their fish L Here the Megarenses of old built Chalcedon a Citie of Bethinia famous for a Councell held there by the ruine of which Citie Constantinople increased At this day there is onely a Village or rather some scattered houses and it is commonly called Scuteri or Scudretta M Here the Great Turks mother then liuing had her priuate Garden N Hither the Heyre of the Empire is sent as it were into banishment vnder pretence to gouerne the Prouince Bursia assoone as he is circumcised and so being made a Musulman that is a circumcised Turke first begins to draw the eyes of the Army and Ianizares towards him O Here is the Pallace or Court of the great Turke called by the Italians Seraglio and vulgarly Saray and it was of old the Monastery of Saint Sophia Mahomet the second first compassed it with walls and the buildings together with the large and pleasant gardens are some three or foure miles in circuit I entered the outward Court thereof by a stately Gate kept by many Ianizares called Capigi of that office The court yard was large all compassed with building of free stone two stories high with a low and almost plaine roofe tyled and without windowes after the maner of the building of Italy and round about the inside it was cast out with arches like the building of Cloisters vnder which they walked drie in the greatest raine And in this Court is a large pulpit or open roome where the great Turke vieth to shew himselfe to the Ianizares to satisfie them when they make any mutiny P Here is a banqueting house vulgarly called Chuske the prospect whereof is more pleasant then can be expressed beholding foure Seaes at once and the land on all sides beyond them Q Here is the Church of Saint Sophia opposite to the Court Gate of old built by the Christians after the forme of Salomons Temple and indowed with the annuall rent of three hundred thousand Zechines now made a Mosche or Mahometan Church And howsoeuer the Turks cannot indure that vnwashed Christians so called by them because they vse not Baths so continually as they doe should enter their Mosches or passe ouer their Sepulchers yet my self entered this Church with the Ianizare my guid trusting to his power to defend me yet he willed me first to put of my shooes and according to the Turkes custome to leaue them in the porch where they were late till we returned The Church is of a round forme and built of bricke and supported with faire pillars and paued with Marble ouer which the Turks layed Mats to kneele and prostrate themselues more commodiously vpon them The roofe is beautified with pictures of that rich painting which the Italians call alla Mosaica shining like enameled work which now by antiquity were much decaied and in some parts defaced Round about the Church hung many Lampes which they vse to burrie in the time of their Lent called Beyram and euery weeke vpon Thursday in the euening and Friday all day which they keepe holy after their fashion for their Sabbath day Round about the vpper part of the Church are large and most faire Galleries And here I did see two Nuts of Marble of huge bignesse and great beauty Moreouer I did see the great Turke when he entered this Church and howsoeuer it lie close to the Gate of his Pallace yet he came riding vpon a horse richly trapped with many troopes of his chiefe horsemen standing in ranke within the Courts of his Pallace and from the Court Gate to the Church dore betweene which troopes on both sides he passed as betweene walles of brasse with great pompe And when a Chaus or Pensioner being on horseback did see mee close by the Emperours side hee rushed vpon me to strike me with his mace saying What doth this Christian dog so neere the person of our great Lord But the Ianizare whom our Ambassadour had giuen me for a Guide and Protector repelled him from doing mee any wrong and many Ianizares
by nature and diligent Art and hath a very faire Hauen Vpon the bay which Ptolomy names AEstuarium Metaris vulgarly called the Washes lieth the large Towne of Linne famous for the safety of the Hauen most easie to be entred for the concourse of Merchants and the faire buildings 20 Cambridgeshire had of old the same Inhabitants and consists all of open corne fields excepting some places yeelding Saffron and it giues excellent Barly of which steeped till it spring againe they make great quantity of Mault to brew Beere in such quantity as the Beere is much exported euen into forraigne parts and there highly esteemed Cambridge is a famous Vniuersity seated vpon the Riuer Grant by others called Came of which and the Bridge ouer the same it is called Cambridge The Northerne part of this County consists of Ilands greene and pleasant in Summer but all couered with water in the Winter whereof the cheefe called Ely giues the name to all the rest called as if they were but one Iland the I le of Ely the cheefe Towne whereof called also Ely is famous for being the seate of a Bishop 21 Hunting donshire had of old the same Inhabitants the cheefe Towne whereof is Huntingdon 22 Northamptonshire was of old inhabited by the Coritani and is a Countrey most painefully tilled and full of Inhabitants Northampton is the cheefe City large and walled Peterborow is the seate of a Bishop Neere Stamford is the stately Pallace Burleigh built by William the first Lord Burleigh 23 Leycestershire had of old the same Inhabitants a Champion Country and fruitfull in bearing Corne. In Lutterworth a little Towne of Trade Iohn Wickliffe was Pastor or Minister Leicester the cheefe City hath more antiquitie then beauty 24 Rutlandshire had of old the same Inhabitants and is the least County of England and had the name of the red Earth The Towne of Vppingham deserues no other mention then that it is the cheefe Towne of the County 25 Linconshire had of old the same inhabitants and is a very large County rich in Corne and Pastures and abounding with Fowle and Fish and all things necessary for foode The great Washes of Holland when the Sea flowes are couered with water but when it ebbes the ground is discouered to be passed but not without danger and with a good guide Lincolne the chief City was of old one of the most populous Cities of England and one that had greatest trade and hath a sumptuous Cathedral Church 26 Nottinghamslire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe City whereof is Nottingham pleasantly seated In the Westerne part is the Wood called Shirewood feeding infinit numbers of Fallow and Red Deare whether the Kings of old were wont to retire for hunting 27 Darbyshire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe towne whereof is Darby faire and well inhabited the Ayle whereof is for goodnesse prouerbially preferred before that kind of drinke in any other Towne The Westerne part hath high Mountaines called Peake yeelding Leade which they make into Sowes and stibium in his proper vaines is there found Likewise there Mil-stones are out out and there is the old Castle called the Castle in the Peake neare which is a great hole or caue in the Mountaine gaping wide and hauing many inward caues and this hole with reueuerence be it spoken is vulgarly called The Diuels ars at Peuke of which many fables are told and the place is accounted among the miracles of England The like fables are told of 〈◊〉 hole not farre distant very steepe and deepe 28 Warwickshire was of old inhabited by the Cornauij wherein is Couentry a large faire and walled Citie so called of the Couent of Monkes and at this day it is the fairest City within-land wherof the chiefe trade of old was making round caps of wooll but the same being now very little vsed the trade is decaied Warwick is the chiefe City of the County and neare the same vpon the hill Blacklow Peter of Gaueston was beheaded by the Lords of the Kingdome Not farre thence is a transparant and pleasant but little Wood and there be cleare Fountaines which place yeelds sweete solitude for the Muses and there they report that the famous worthy Guy of Warwick after many aduentures atchieued did first liue an Heremites life and was after death buried 29 Worcestershire had of old the same inhabitants which after in the time of Beda were called Wiccij either of wic signifying a corner or bay or of wyches signifying 〈◊〉 in the Saxons tongue And there are excellent salt-pits or Brookes and new fountaines of salt are daily found The Country is happy in the healthfull ayre tertility of soile and sweete Riuers but especially yeeldeth abundance of Peares of which they make Perry a counterfeit wine but cold and flatuous as all those kinds of drinke are Worcester the chiefe City of the County was built by the Romans and is compassed with a wall and hath the seate of a Bishop and a faire Cathedrall Church with the Monuments of Iohn King of England and Arthur Prince of Wales It is also beautified with many inhabitants rich trade of wollen cloth faire buildings and the number of Churches 30 Staffordshire had of old the same inhabitants and towards the South it hath pit-coales and some vaines of Iron but the greatest quantitie and best kind of pit-coales is in Nottinghamshire Stone is a Towne of Traffike Lichfeild is a large and faire City so called as the field of dead bodies and it is beautified with the seate of a Bishop his Pallace and the house of the Prebends My selfe passing that way did reade these Epitaphes in the Cathedrall Church The first of a Deane Sis testis Christe quod non iacet hic lapis iste Corpus vt ornetur sed spirittus vt memoretur O Christ me witnesse beare that this stone lies not here To grace the vile body but the soules memorie And another excellent Epitaph but superstitious and I know not whose Quisquis eris qui transieris sta perlege plora Sum quod eris fuer amque quod es pro me precor ora Who ere thou be that passest by stand reade and houle Such shalt thou be I was like thee pray for my soule Yet I remember not well whether these were two Epitaphes or onely one and for one man 31 Shropshire had of old the same inhabitants and was a fortified and manned frontyer against the Welsh then diuided from the English and their enemies and thereupon was named the Marches Ludlow is a Towne of more beauty then antiquity beautified with the Pallace of the King or rather of the Prince of Wales and there is a Counsell or Court of Iustice erected for Wales the borders not vnlike to the French Parliaments and instituted by Henry the eight It consists of the President of Wales there residing of a Secretary an Atturney a Solicitor and foure Iustices of the Counties of Wales and as many Counsellers as
by waggon the high way being then drowned Nothing were more pleasant nothing more quicke then Sea-voyages if a man might promise himselfe a good wind and a reasonable gale but through contrariety of winds and tempests they commonly proue tedious This small voyage which afflicted vs foure daies might haue beene passed in sixe houres if the winds had fauoured vs. And this hope of a short passage caused vs to make no prouision of victuals so as the Barke being gouerned by one Mariner and a boy who had nothing but cheese and musty bread to liue vpon and so could not much releeue vs each houre of these foure daies seemed a yeere vnto vs. Dockam a City of West Freesland little in circuit is in two places diuided with water which at this time ouer flowed into the very houses The wall is strong with rampiers of earth and the houses here as in all these parts of Netherland are built of bricke Here I paid for my supper twenty stiuers eating at an Ordinary but the company sitting at the fire and drinking after supper all vseth to be diuided equally whether a man drinke or not The first of Nouember we went by water in sixe houres space two miles to Lewerden hauing on each side the water fertile pastures and passing by two Forts and each man paid for his passage three stiuers The City is faire and well fortified and William Count of Nassau cousin to Count Maurice and Gouernour of Friesland had his residence in the same The streetes are large and diuided with water and the houses are fairely builded of bricke The City hath no Suburbs and is of a round forme but the waters diuiding the streetes slowly or not at all moued are in this City as almost in all other of these Prouinces subiect to stinking In the midst of the City there is a dam tolet in water at pleasure which in this place and two miles further is salt in tast Passengers entering the City leaue their swords with the guard of souldiers and receiue them backe when they goe out of the Towne The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contribution to the Spanish garison of Groning left they should breake in and spoile them Here they say the first sermon of reformed religion was made in the Monastery of the Iacobinet and here I paid for my supper foureteene stiuers From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke in the morning to fiue in the afternoone two-miles to Froniker an Vniuersity of Friesland lately renewed and one mile to the City Harlingen and we paid six stiuers for our passage Entering this City we left our swords with the guard of souldiers who restored them to vs when wee went away It is a little City and lieth in length from the East to the West but is somewhat more narrow towards the North where the houses are thinly built On the west and North sides lies an arme of the Sea comming out of the German Sea and here inclosed with the continent and Ilands On the South and East sides without the gates are faire pastures in a large plaine I lodged in an Englishmans house the chiefe Host of the City who either dispising England and Englishmen or too much respecting his masters of Friesland gaue me such entertainment as I tooke him for one of the old Picts for hauing placed his Gentlemen of Friesland at one table he called me to the second and seeing that I tooke it in ill part lest I should no lesse dislike my lodging he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit me partner of his bed but I hearing the gentleman condition with him about the cleannesse of my body and linnen for very scorne would not trouble his worship but chose rather to lie vpon a bench And it was most ridiculous that this Host excused himselfe to me as hauing for countries sake made bold with me whom he had neuer seene before I paid for my supper and breakefast with wine thirty stiuers and one of my consorts drinking no wine paid sixeteene whereof nine was for beere From Harlingen I went by the said Inland Sea vulgarly called Zwidersea foureteene miles to Amsterdam and paid eight stiuers for my passage Some of our passengers going onely to Enchusen paid fiue stiuers for by couenant betweene the Cities the ships must land their passengers at Enchusen and there receiue such new passengers as they find and one ship at least is bound daily to make this passage From the said Harlingen a City of Friesland wee passed in foure houres saile to Enchusen a City of Holland which is fortified with a wall of earth and strong rampiers and lieth in length from the North to the South The Hauen lies on the East side and the new City was then building towards the West side This City lying betweene the mouth of the German sea and Amsterdam another City of Holland and in the beginning of the warre taking part with the Prince of Orange forced Amsterdam by stopping all supply of victuals to yeeld to the said Prince Hauing made short stay here we tooke ship againe and sayling from siue a clocke in the euening to twelue in the night in the same Inland sea we entered the Riuer Tay where we cast anchor till foure in the morning and then setting sayle passed one mile in that Riuer before sixe of the clocke and landed at Amsterdam Fiue streetes of this City are diuided with water the Riuer Tay flowes like a large and calme sea on the North side where is a safe port the trafficke being great in this City and at Midleburg since the passage to Antwerpe was stopped Vpon the Hauen lics a field or market place called Campplata where the Citizens vse to behold their friends going to sea and returning home From this place towards the South lies Warmerstrat a long and large street betweene two Riuers which part of the City is called the new Ditch The Merchants in summer meet vpon the Bridge and in winter they meet in the New Church in very great number where they walke in two rankes by couples one ranke going vp and another going downe and there is no way to get out of the Church except they slip out of the doores when in one of those rankes they passe by them On the East side of the City there is a wall of stone higher then the City hauing a pleasant walke vpon it In the same place are houses for exercise of shooting in gunneo and crosse-bowes beyond this wall there is another of earth and betweene these wals the new City was plotted out where of few houses were then built but since I heare it is fully finished Likewise on the South and West sides there be two like wals and between them the plot of the said new City in which many faire houses were then built The fields on all sides without the gates being fenny and drowned with water doe make the City more strong but
for this cause they say the foundations of the houses being laid in water cost as much or more as the houses themselues The Riuer Amster of which and the word dam the City is named running from the South through three lakes entereth this city and passing through it fals into the Riuer Tay on the North side The City hath fiue gates which are shut at dinners and suppers though the danger of the warre be farre from them There be two Churches in which they haue two sermons each second day and foure on sunday The City lay in length from the North to the South but adding the plot of the new City it is of a round forme The streetes are narrow and the building of bricke with a low roofe shewed antiquity They haue two Almeshouses called Gasthausen that is Houses for strangers which were of old Monasteries One of these houses built round was a Cloyster for Nunnes wherein sixty beds at this time were made for poore weomen diseased and in another chamber thereof were fifty two beds made for the auxiliary Soulders of England being hurt or sicke and in the third roome were eighty one beds made for the hurt and sicke Souldiers of other Nations to which souldiers and sicke weomen they giue cleane sheetes a good diet and necessary clothes with great cleanlinesse and allow them Physitians Surgions to cure them and most of the Cities in these Prouinces haue like houses Here I lodged with an English-man and paid for dinner and supper twenty stiuers and for a guest inuited to supper ten stiuers and for three pints or chopines of Spanish wine twenty one stiuers From Amsterdam I went in a boat three miles to Harlam and paid for my passage foure stiuers we had not passed farre from Amsterdam when we came to a damme shutting out the flowing of the sea for the waters are salt thus farre though the ebbing and the flowing of the sea can hardly be discerned at Amsterdam for the depth of the Riuer Tay aud because Inland seas shew little ebbing or flowing Our boat was lifted ouer this damme by ropes and so let fall into the water on the other side for which the Mariners paid tribute There is another damme for greater Barkes and as by these dammes they let in waters to the Land at pleasure so they haue other dams at Torgay to let them out againe into the Sea when the Land hath too much water From hence we had the Sea-shore all the way on the North side not farre distant and on both sides of the water in which we passed were faire pastures parted with ditches of water The Riuer running from Amsterdam from the East to the North doth turne neere Harlam towards the South and diuideth the City which on all sides is compasied with Nauigable waters On the North side neere the gate Ians-port Don Frederick sonne to the Duke of Alun pitched his tent in a meadow when he besieged the City with the Spanish forces and much spoiled those parts beating downe Gentlemens faire houses dwelling frequently in that part with his Artillery playing into this street hauing the name of the Knights of Saint Iohn On the same side are two other gates Sayle-port and Cruyse-port and without them toward the sea being halfe a mile distant are very faire pastures but there is no riuer nor ditch that leads from the City to the sea For these Prouinces haue onely three passages to goe to sea one betweene Rotherodam and Bril a Fort of Zealand the second at Vlishing another Port of Zealand and the third from Amsterdam betweene two Ilands called rhe Fly and Shelling Wee comming from Amsterdam to Harlam entred the Citie by the gate Kleine holt Port on the East side where the very Almes-houses were beaten downe in the aforesaid siege of the Spaniards and the walles then beaten downe were not yet rebuilt On the South side is the fifth gate Grote-holt Port the street whereof is the fairest next that of the Knights of Saint Iohn On this side was a wall of stone but at this time they were building another very strong wall beyond it of earth In the New-street is the house for exercise of shooting and another old house for the same vse and one market-place sweetly shaded with trees and a second market-place of good length for the selling of Cattle Likewise on this side another part of the Spanish Army lay and destroyed a most pleasant Wood of which the gate and street haue the name And they report that the Spaniards taking the City vsed great cruelty to all but especially to the Garrison of the English Souldiers The Histories witnesse that three hundred were beheaded and more then two hundred drowned in the Lake called Harlam-mere On the West side the Citie is compassed with a wall of earth and there bee faire pastures betweeue the City and the Sea Among the Churches that which is called the Great is the fairest and our Ladies Church vulgarly called Vnser-fraw kirke is the next in beautie All the sea coast of Holland is a sandy downe in which are great store of conies This Citie makes great store of linnen clothes and hath some fiue hundred spinsters in it The water heere as most of these Cities standing and little or nothing mouing is subiect to stinking so as they are forced to fetch water for brewing by boats Here I paied for supper and my part of wine twenty stiuers and for my dinner without wine thirteene stiuers About a mile from the City is a very sweet Hil called Weligheberg whether the brides vse to walke and there take their leaues of the Virgins And in the mid way towards Almer is another Hil where the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to bee consecrated In the market-place ouer against the Pallace they shew the house of one Laurence Iohn vvhom they brag to bee the first inuentor of the Presse for Printing and they shew two bels of the brasse of Corinth which they say were brought from Pelusium a City in Affrick vpon the Nyle From Harlam wee hired a waggon for eight stiuers and came fiue miles in fiue houres space to Leyden our waggoner baiting his horses in the mid way but staying very little In the way we had on all sides faire pastures and passed by the Lake or Mere of Harlam lying towards the South and the sea bankes vvithin sight towards the North. The high wayes in these Prouinces seeme to be forced and made by Art being sandy and very dry though all the pastures on both sides bee compassed with frequent ditches of water At the gates of Leyden the men goe out of the vvaggon and onely vvomen may be carried into the City lest as I thinke the vvheeles of the loaded vvaggons should breake the bricke pauements of the streets Hence I returned presently to Amsterdam that I might receiue money sent me by exchange So I hired a vvaggon for eight stiuers my part from hence to Harlam and
the land being seuered from it by waters and on the sea being hedged in with a strong sea banke but also giue ioyfull rest vnder their power to their subiects on land though exposed to the assault of their enemies The City parted in the middest with the great channell comming in from the sea banke neere the two Castles is of old diuided into six sextaries or six parts vulgarly sestieri three on this side the channell and three beyond the channell The first sextary on this side the channell is that of Saint Marke for howsoeuer it be not the Cathedrall Church yet it is preferred before the rest as well because the Duke resides there as especially because Saint Marke is the protecting Saint of that Ciry The body of which Saint being brought hither by Merchants from Alexandria this Church was built in the yeere 829. at the charge of the Duke Iustinian who dying gaue by his last will great treasure to that vse and charged his brother to finish the building which was laid vpon the ruines of Saint Theodores Church who formerly had beene the protecting Saint of the City And the same being consumed with fire in the yeere 976. it was more stately rebuilt according to the narrownes of the place the Merchants being charged to bring from all places any precious thing they could find fit to adorne the same whatsoeuer it cost The length of the Church containeth two hundred foot of Venice the bredth fifty the circuit 950. The building is become admirable for the singular art of the builders and painters and the most rare peeces of Marble Porphry Ophites stones so called of speckles like a serpent and like stones and they cease not still to build it as if it were vnfinished lest the reuenues giuen by the last wils of dead men to that vse should returne to their heires as the common report goes There were staires of old to mount out of the market place into the Church till the waters of the channell increasing they were forced to raise the height of the market place On the side towards the market place are fiue doores of brasse whereof that in the middest is fairest and the same with one more are daily opened the other three being shut excepting the dayes of Feasts Vpon the ground neere the great doore is a stone painted as if it were engrauen which painting is vulgarly called Ala Mosaica and vpon this stone Pope Alexander set his foot vpon the necke of the Emperour Fredericke Barbarossa adoring him after his submission The outward part of the Church is adorned with 148. pillars of marble whereof some are Ophytes that is speckled and eight of them are Porphry neere the great doore which are highly esteemed And in all places about the Church there be some six hundred pillars of marble besides some three hundred in the caues vnder ground Aboue these pillars on the outside of the Church is an open gallery borne vp with like pillars from whence the Venetians at times of Feasts behold any shewes in the market place And aboue this gallery and ouer the great doore of the Church be foure horses of brasse guilded ouer very notable for antiquity and beauty and they are so set as if at the first step they would leape into the market place They are said to be made to the similitude of the Horses of Phoebus drawing the Chariot of the Sunne and to haue beene put vpon the triumphall Arke of Nero by the people of Rome when he had ouercome the Parthians But others say that they were giuen to Nero by Tiridates the King of Armenia and were made by the hands of the famous engrauer Lisippus These Horses Constantine remoued from Rome to Constantinople and that City being sacked the Venetians brought them to Venice but they tooke of the bridles for a signe that their City had neuer beene conquered but enioied Virgin liberty And all the parts of these horses being most like the one to the other yet by strange art both in posture of motion and otherwise they are most vnlike one to the other Aboue this gallery the Image of Saint Marke of marble and like images of the other Euangelists of the Virgin Mary and of the Angell Gabriell are placed and there is a bell vpon which the houres are sounded for the Church hath his Clocke though another very faire Clocke in the market place be very neere it The roofe in forme of a Globe lies open at the very top where the light comes in for the Church hath no windowes and the Papist Churches being commonly darke to cause a religious horror or to make their candles shew better this is more darke then the rest I passe ouer the image of Saint Marke of brasse in the forme of a Lion guilded ouer and holding a booke of brasse Likewise the artificiall Images of the Doctors of the Church and others I would passe ouer the Image of the Virgin Mary painted ala Mosaica that is as if it were engrauen but that they attribute great miracles to it so as weomen desirous to know the state of their absent friends place a wax candle burning in the open aire before the Image and beleeue that if their friend be aliue it cannot be put out with any force of wind but if he be dead that the least breath of wind puts it out or rather of it selfe it goes out and besides for that I would mention that those who are adiudged to death offer waxe candles to this Image and as they passe by fall prostratero adore the same To conclude I would not omit mention thereof because all shippes comming into the Hauen vse to salute this Image and that of Saint Marke with peeces of Ordinance as well and more then the Duke A Merchant of Venice saued from shipwracke by the light of a candle in a darke night gaue by his last will to this Image that his heires for euer should find a waxe candle to burne before the same Aboue the said gallery are little chambers in which they lay vp pieces of stone and glasse with other materials for the foresaid painting ala Mosaica which is like to engrauing and Painters hauing pensions from the state doe there exercise that Art highly esteemed in Italy The outward roofe is diuided into foure globes couered with leade Touching the inside of the Church In the very porch thereof is the Image of Saint Marke painted with wonderfull art and the Images of Christ crucified of him buried and of the foure Euangelists highly esteemed besides many other much commended for the said painting like engrauing and for other workemanship And there be erected foure great pillars of Ophites which they say were brought from the Temple of Salomon At the entery of the doore is an old and great sepulcher in which lies the Duke Marine Morosini Not far thence is the image of Saint Geminian in pontificall habit and another of Saint Katherine both painted with great
the Creeke of Pozzoli of this Citie Suetonius writes that the Emperour Tiberius consulting about his successor and inclining more to his true Nephew Thrasyllus the Mathematitian should answere that Catus should no more raigne then he should ride ouer the Creeke of Baie Wherefore Caius being Emperour and hearing of this diuination not as others say in emulation of Xerxes who made a Bridge ouer Hellespont nor to the end that with the fame of this great worke he might terrifie the rebellious Germans and Britans did build a Bridge ouer this creeke of the sea being about three miles long that hee might thereupon passe from Baie to Pozzoli Of this Bridge thirteene piles of bricke may bee seene neere the shore at Pozzoli and as many on the other side neere the shore of Baie and some of these piles haue yet arches vpon them but ready to fall And from these piles the Inner part of the bridge was founded vpon two rankes of shippes fastened with ancors and couered ouer with a bancke of earth to make the passage like the way of Appius The rest Suetonius addeth in these or the like words Ouer this bridge he went to and fro for two daies the first day vpon a trapped horse hauing his head adorned with a Crowne of Oake leaues and bearing an Hatchet a Sword and a Garland and a robe of cloth of Gold The next day in a Coch-mans habit driuing a Coch drawne by foure famous horses carrying before him Darius a childe one of the pledges giuen by the Parthians his Pretorian Souldiers accompanying him and his friends following him in a Coach c. He that desires to comprehēd the magnificence of this work must first know that the Mediterranean sea is very calme hauing little or no ebbing or flowing and that this Creeke is yet more calme and that this bridge was built in the furthest part of the Creeke very neere the land These things considered if my iudgement faile not there is greater cause of wonder at the Bridge built by the Duke of Parma besieging Antwerp being in like sort built vpon barkes fastened one to the other and also at the Bridge of London bearing a great ebbing and flowing of the sea and built of free stone vpon so firme a foundation as it beareth many great and faire houses vpon it but whatsoeuer the magnificence were surely the vanitie of this worke was great to spend so much vpon this Bridge the way by land being not a mile longer then by the Bridge Giue me leaue to digresse so farre as to remember that the Territorie of Falernum is not farre from Pozzols the wine whereof called Falernum is so much praised by Horace After dinner we went from Pozzoii to view the Antiquities lying vpon this Creeke and first we came to the Labyrinth a building vnder ground which hath the name of the multitude of roomes with such passages to and fro as a man may loose himselfe in them and here wee had not onely neede of the thread of Ariadne but of light also to conduct vs. Leander thinks that all this building was to keepe fresh water Then we came to the Amphitheater being of an Ouall forme the inner part whereof is 172 foot long and 88 broad the building whereof is little ruined And Suetonius writes that this was built for the Plaies of Vulcan Not farre thence neere the shoare is a fountaine of cleare and sweete water flowing plentifully out of the sea so that for a great distance we might with our eies distinguish the same from the sea water which Leander thinks to haue been brought by pipes vnder the earth to these houses of the old Romans Neere this place are the ruines of many buildings now called Belgeimano which the Emperour Tiberius is said to haue built when hereturned with triumph from the German warre Betweene the rocks that compasse this sea is the way Attellane which leades those that passe to Rome to the way of Appins and there be many baths for most of the waters are medicinall Neere the Lake of Auernus vpō the side towards Pozzoli lies a Mountaine q which lately broke out of the earth where of old were the bathes of Tripergola whence the dwellings in this part and this place are called Tripergola and here of old were many large and stately buildings but by reason of many Earthquakes and roberies of Pirats the houses were long since forsaken and at last in the yeere 1538 were swallowed vp by the earth For in that yeere vpon Michaelmas day was a terrible Earthquake in this place which brake out with fire in great flames casting vp stones with a great tempest of winde and darkenesse of the aire so as the people thought the worlds end was come And at this time the ashes of this fire were carried by the winde to places twentie miles distant At last after seuen daies this confusion ceased and then the aforesaid Mountaine breaking out of the bowels of the earth was first seene being three miles high and at the bottom foure miles compasse Vpon the toppe of this Mountaine is a hole some fistie paces broad which towards the bottom growes more and more narrow where it seemeth round and of little compasse hauing a cleare water yet giuing a stink of brimstone and this hole is like a Theater made by art In the foresaid fearefull Earthquake caused by the breaking out of the vapours inclosed vnder the hollow earth many famous bathes were lost and no more seene Not farre hence is the Mountaine of Christ so called because they say that Christ with the squadrons of the Fathers passed this way when hee ascended from Hell But the French Gentleman Villamont worthily iudgeth this to be fabulous and likewise the miracle of the Crucifex here bearing the markes of Christ yet doth he giue too much credit to the miracles of Loreto Vpon the shore of the creek of r Baie lies the Lake as Virgil saith of the foule stinking Auernus This Lake is a naturall Hauen but is not vsed because the Hauen of Lucrinus is betweene it and the sea It is compassed with high hils on all sides but onely where the Sea enters on the South-side at a passage fifty paces broad and the forme of it is round and the hils that compasse it now seeme pleasant but of old were all couered with a thicke wood which shutting vp the aire and by the shadow drawing many birds to it was thought to be the cause that these birds stifled with the smell of brimstone fell suddenly dead till the Emperour Augustus caused the wood to be destroied And of the birds thus killed the Lake was called Auernus For this smell of brimstone and the shadow of the foresaid wood darkening the Lake and the blacke colour of the water and because the sunne is shut out from the Lake by the hils this Lake was feined by the Poets to be one of the Lakes of hell Leander writes of a fountaine here the water
Hill and a Hill to a Mount Many doe falsely thinke that it had the name of such vessels in which tribute was brought to Rome and then the vessels were broken here Of old eight bridges were built ouer Tyber among which is reckoned Pons Miluius vulgarly Ponte Mole without the gate IIII Delpopolo more then a mile distant from Rome and neere this bridge Constantine the Great vnder the signe of the Crosse did ouercome the tyrant Maxentius Also this bridge was famous for the night lusts of Nero The second bridge is called XXXV di Castel ' Sant ' Angelo and it was of old called Elius of the Emperour Elius Adrianus who built it but Pope Nicholas the fifth built it as now it stands and set vpon it the Image of Saint Peter with his keyes and of Saint Paul with his sword The third bridge is called XXXVI Vaticanus as leading to that Mount and was also of old called Triumphalis of the Triumphes passing vpon it and it was not lawfull for the Countrey people to enter that way but at this day onely the ruines thereof are seene The fourth bridge is called XXXVII Ponte-Sisto of Pope Sixtus the fourth who repaired it It was of old called Ianiculonsis of that Mount and Aurelius of the way of that name and it was built of marble by Antoninus Pius and after being decaied was long called Ponte Rotto that is the broken bridge till the said Pope repaired it in the yeere 1475. and it is two hundred and fifteene foote broad and is built vpon three Arches of stone The fifth bridge ioining Rome and the Iland and next to the Capitolium is called XXXVIII Ponte at quattro Capt and was of old called Tarpeius of the Rocke Tarpcia which is in the Mount Capitolino and was called Fabricius of the repairer and it is seuenty foot long and hath but one Arch of stone The sixth bridge of a Church neere it is called XXXIX di S. Maria AEgittiaca and was of old called Scnatorim and Palatinus and it is somewhat longer then the bridge Sisto The seuenth bridge of a Church neere it is called XL di S. Bartolomeo and it is opposite to the fifth bridge and ioineth the Iland with that part of Rome called Trasteuere and of old it was called Psquilinus and Cestius and it is sixty foot long hauing but one Arch of stone The eight bridge at the foot of the Mount Auentine was of old called XLI Sublicius because it was built of wood in the warre with the Tuscanes that it might be more easily broken and repaired And we read that the Tuscanes being Victors had taken Rome if Horatius Cocles had not defended the bridge till it was broken downe behind him which done he saued himselfe by swimming After that Emilius Lepidus built this bridge of stone and called it Emilius and when it was broken with floods first the Emperour Tyberius repaired it and then Antoninus Pius built it very high of marble condemned men were cast from it into the water This bridge being the first that was built ouer Tyber now is not to be seene by any ruines Rome by the great power of the Emperours and since of the Popes hath beene long most famous and was first built in Latium vpon Tyber fifteene miles from the Tyrrhene sea as the Greekes write by Ascanius Eurilantes Romulus and Remus Nephewes to AEneas or as other Greekes write by the Achiui or as other Greekes write by the sonnes of Roma a woman of Troy married to the Latine King of the Aborigenes which sonnes were Romulus and Remus or as Xenagoras writes by the sonne of Vlisses by Circe to omit many other opinions of the Greekes The Latine Historians doe no lesse vary Some say it was built by the sonnes of AEneas namely Romulus and Remus Others say that Ascanius built Alba and Remus built Capua and Romulus built Ianiculum after called Rome But I omit these diuers opinions and will follow Leander the Fryar who saith that Rome the daughter of the King in Italy built Rome the same yeere that Moses was borne And when the City had beene long forsaken for the vnwholsome ayre of the Fennes adioining that Euander comming from Arcadia into Italy seated himselfe vpon the Mount Palatine and built a City called Palantium of his City in Arcadia and he being dead that Hercules comming with an Army left some of his consorts here who built vpon the Mount of Saturnius after called Capitolinus Before the destruction of Troy for the vnwholsome aire Rome being againe forsaken that the Albani began to dwell there in Cottages and seed their flockes there For by the continuall ouer flowings of Tyber the field was made fenny and the aire vnwholsome but Historians write that vpon sacrifices made to God Vertuno these Fennes by little and little were dried vp Hee adde that Amulius tooke the Kingdome of the Albani from his brother Numiter whose daughter Rhea a Vestall Virgin being great with child by Amulius Mars or any other brought forth Romulus and Remus and Amulius left them by Tyber to perish in the waters but a shee wolfe sed them and after Faustulus ouerseer of al the flocks and cattell of Amulius tooke them home who comming to ripe yeeres killed Amulius and restored their Grand-father Numitor to his Kingdome but themselues being desirous to build a City vpon the Mount Palatine at the foote whereof they had been cast out Romulus drew with a plow the circuit of the Citie of a quadrangular forme in the 430. yeere after the destruction of Troy and in the yeere of the World 3211. He gaue Mount Celius to be inhabited by Celius King of Toseany aiding him against the Sabines and then taking by force the Sabine weomen and they making peace betweene them he gaue to Tatius and his Sabines for their dwelling the Mountaines Capitolinus and Quirinalis and to his brother Remus the Mount Auentinus and kept for himselfe and his men the Mountaines Palatinus and Esquilinus till the rest being dead himselfe alone became Lord of all The seuen rockes were of old called seuen hils hauing a pleasant plaine betweene them and Tyber and this circuit is in forme of a bent bowe the Tyber standing for the string Romu'us made the City foure square but he being dead Ancus Martius inclosed the Mount Ianiculus beyond Tyber and Seruius inclosed other Mounts on this side of the Tyber Six Kings raigned two hundred forty three yeeres in Rome and Torquine being banished it became a popular State wherein Consuls yeerely chosen did gouerne and eight hundred eighty seuen Consuls in foure hundred sixty foure yeeres by forty three battels obtained the Empire almost of the whole world In the meane time the Decemuiri that is tenne men ruled for two yeeres and the Tribunes for Military affaires hauing Consular power ruled forty three yeeres and in the time of any difficult warre a Dictator was chosen who with absolute power ruled till that businesse was ended
to behaue themselues modestly And I must truly witnesse that the Patron the Scriuano and the sub-patron vsed all passengers courteously yet so kept their grauitic as they had due respect at all times particularly at the Table where they did first set downe others expecting till they came then the Friers did sit downe and lastly the Lay-men in due order Neither doe any sit or walke vpon the highest hatches saue onely they who did eate at the Table of the Patron but the rest and all the Easterne people whom hee neuer admits to his Table were on the middle Hatch or at the Prow Vpon Wednesday in the morning we did see vpon the shoare of Italy the Mountaines of Ancona which are two hundred Italian miles distant from Venice Vpon Thursday the fiue and twentie of Aprill wee sailed by the Iland or Mountaine Poma or Pamo seated in the middest of the Gulfe of Venice which was a high Rock rising sharpe at the toppe and vninhabited where in the Autum they take Faulcons and we sailed by the Iland Saint Andrea distant one hundred miles from Ancona on the North side and the shoare of Italy on the South side And the same night wee sayled by the Iland Ischa and the next morning being Friday by the Ilands Buso Aulto Catsa and towards the euening by the Ilands Cazola Augusta and Palaofa for in this Gulfe of Venice bee many Ilands whereof the most are subiect to Venice and the rest to Raguza and other Lords and some towards the North-shoare to the great Turke Heere great store of Dolphines followed our ship and the voyce of the Marriners as they vse to doe and they playing about vs did swimme as fast as if they had flowne Then wee did see the Iland Liozena being all of Mountaines subiect to Venice and inhabited by Gentlemen where the Venetians had built a strong Fort vpon the Hauen for their Gallies And after fiue miles wee did see the Iland Curzola subiect to Venice and hauing a Bishop And the winde being high wee cast anchor neere Curzola but the winde soone falling we set sayle againe From the fixe and twentie of Aprill to Thurseday the second of May the South-East winde which the Italians call Syrocco did blow very contrary vnto vs. The third of May being Friday towards the euening we were driuen vpon the Northerne shoare and did see the Fort Cataro built on a Mountaine vpon the continent against Turkish Pirats and distant eighteene miles from Raguza the chiefe Citie of Selauonia which is free yet payes tribute to the Venetians and Turks their powerful neighbors Not farre thence the Turks also had a Fort built against the Venetians Raguza is some one hundred miles distant from the Iland Andrea and some foure hundred miles from Venice Vpon Saturday we sayled by the Promontorie of Saint Mary on the North side and Otranto a Citie of Apulia in Italy on the South side seeing them both plainely for now we were passing out of the Gulfe of Venice into the Mediterranean sea by this Straight some sixtie miles broad and some two hundred miles distant from Raguza Here we did ouertake a ship of Venice called Ragazona and that we might enioy one anothers company the Sea being calme for the time our ship being the lesse yet of some nine hundred Tunnes was fastned to the Sterne of the other ship by a Cable and towards the euening vpon the Greeke shore towards the North wee did see Vallona Now we were come forth of the Adriatique Sea otherwise called the Gulfe of Venice which hath in length some sixe hundred Italian miles and the breadth is diuers sometimes two hundred miles sometimes lesse betweene Ancona and the opposite Hauen Valdagosta seuentie miles and in the Straight we now passed sixtie miles broad On Sunday the fifth of May we did see the Mountaine Fanon and as I remember an Iland three miles distant from the Iland Corfu and vpon the Greeke shoare beyond the Iland we did see the most high Mountaines called Chimerae inhabited by the Albanesi who neither subiect to the Turkes nor Venetians nor any other doe vpon occasion rob all and the Venetians and the Kings of France and especially of Spaine vse to hire them in their warres The sixth of May wee sayled by the Promontory called the Cape of Corfu the description of which Iland I will deferre till my returne this way On Tuesday the seuenth of May wee sailed by the Iland Paro verie neere vs and the Iland Saint Maura ioyned by a bridge to the continent of Epirus and subiect to the Turkes and the Iland Ithaca vulgarly called by the Italians Compare also subiect to the Turkes and famous for their King Vlysses and some foure miles distant from the Iland Cepholania which towards euening wee did see being distant some one hundred miles from Corfu On Wednesday early in the morning wee entered a narrow Sea some two miles broad hauing Cephalonia the lesse on the North side and the greater Cephalonia on the South side and wee cast anchor neere a desart Rocke where of old there was an Vniuersitie and many of vs in our boat sent with Mariners to cut wood and take fresh water did go on land in the greater Cepholania to refresh our selues and to wash our bodies in the Sea water but wee durst not goe farre from our Marriners lest the inhabitants of those woodie Mountaines should offer vs violence Both the Ilands are subiect to Venice and abound with wines and small Currends and in time of warre the Inhabitants retire to a Fort built there by the Venetians to be safe from the Turks The Venetians euery third yeere chuse some of their Gentlemen to be sent hether for Gouernour and Officers The same Wednesday the eight of May towards the euening we set saile and before darke night passed by the Promontary called the Cape of Cepholania and did see on the North side the Ilands Corsolari some ten miles distant where the Nauy of the Pope King of Spaine and Venetians confederate hauing Don Iohn of Austria base brother to King Phillip of Spaine for their Generall obtained a noble Victorie in the yeere 1571 against the Nauy of the Turkes the Christians hiding there many of their Gallies that the Turkes comming out of the Gulfe of Corinth now called the Gulfe of Lepanto might despise their number and so be more easily drawne to fight In the mouth of the said Gulfe vpon the West shoare is the Castle of Toran or Torneze seated in Peloponesus a Prouince of Greece which the Turkes call Morea and in the bottom of the Gulfe Petrasso is seated in the same Prouince and Lepanto in the Prouince of Achaia and of these Cities this Gulfe of Corinth is in these dayes called sometimes the Gulfe of Lepanto sometimes the Gulfe of Petrasso In the Citie of Petrasso the English Merchants liue hauing their Consull and they trafficke especially for Currands of Corinth Neere Cepholania great
numbers of Silke-wormes especially at Tripoli and in most parts of Asia which make great quantitie of Silke as I formerly said in the discourse of Italy yet they sell this Silke raw and vnwonen and buy of the Venetians the foresaid clothes made of their owne silke so as the silkewormes may well be said to bee more diligent and more to promote the publike good then the inhabitants for they swarming in all Gardens diligentlie finish their web while the idle inhabitants yeeld the commoditie thereof to strangers The Venetians also export from Turkey Spices and Apothecary wares and great quantitie of the Dye called Indico They export Galles Cotten wooll Cotton threads Chamlets or Grograms made of the finest haires of Goates not sheared but pulled off from their backes and wouen in Galatia a Prouince of the lesser Asia They export Turkey Carpets Goates skinnes wrought and died into diuers colours The English bring to the Turkes Kersies wrought and dyed of diuers colours and kinds but they bring little Broad-cloth wherewith they are aboundantlie furnished from Venice They also bring to them Tinne and blacke Conni-skinnes in such quantitic as the Turkes admiring the same a Frenchman merily taxing our womens affabilitie said that in England there was such plenty of Connyes and they so tame as they were taken in the Tauerns The English export from them Spices and Apothecary wares for the Trade into the East Indies was not then set vp they also export the foresaid commodities raw silke Indico and other precious Dyes of Scarlet Purple and the like Galles Mastick growing onely in the Iland Zio Cotton and the thread thereof Turkey Carpets for tables Chamlets Grograms of Goates haire The Merchants comming to Constantinople hardly find there any commodities to export therefore the English ships hauing vnladed there saile empty to Alexandretta and there receiue the commodities of Haleppo Againe the Italians who bring much gold and siluer to Haleppo for the commodities there to bee sold doe againe receiue gold and siluer for such commodities as they bring to Constantinople and carry the same backe to Venice The English lying at the Ilands of Zant and Cephalonia subiect to the Venetians and at Petrasso seated in the Gulfe of Corinth and subiect to the great Turke export Corrands others from Algier a Port of Barbary export Sugar others from the Iland Candia subiect to the Venetians export Muskadines and others from diuers Ilands export earthen dishes and vessels painted which for the purenesse are much esteemed and vsed in Italy and in our parts Northward The swords of Damasco are famous for the mettall piercing iron and cutting a naile in pieces but the exportation of them is forbidden though out Christians supply the Turkes with all warlike munitions which they might shame to haue particularly named in this discourse of traffick The precious Orientall commodities of Persia and the East Indies haue made the Trade of Turkish Cities to bee famous namely their spices and rich dies and Iewels which notwithstanding the Turkes haue in part of their owne For I formerly said that Arabia yeelds Frankinsence Mirrh Cinnamon and Iewels and AEgypt yeeldes Balsam and Opobalsam the more precious gumme of the Balmetree in great quantity omitting many commodities which besides they haue of these kinds I speake not of Thessalonica a City of Macedonia now called Saloniche nor other Hauens and Cities of trafficke in Greece as being of lesse moment All the precious traffick of Turkey by reason of the inhabitants slothfulnesse is in the hands of lewes and of Christians and was long in the sole hands of the Venetians but the French in the age past and the English in our age haue had as I may say a traffickiug league with the Turkes and so partake that trade And these three States onely not to speake of the Germans who at this time had warre with the Turkes and neuer saile so farre to exercise trafficke among so many States of Christians haue their Ambassadours at the Turkish Court And if any other Christians arriue in that Empire as the Flemmings often doe they vsed at this time to come vnder the Banner of one of these three Nations The Reader must vnderstand that when I was in Turkey the English and Flemmings had not as yet begun their traffick in the East Indies which is like to destroy the trafficke in Turkey bringing many rich commodities from the well head For their dyet the Turkes liue sparingly I had said slouenly but that I remembred their frequent bathings and washings and the curious clenlinesse of the linnen and all other clothes which they weare but I will bee bold to say they feede negligently and without any pompe or magnificence The richer sort doe fit at meate like Tailors with their knees bended vpon carpets or vpon the grasse when they eate by Riuers sides and in Gardens as they doe more frequently then in the house And their table is so low as they may well reach to it sitting vpon the ground About this table they cast a long towell to wipe their hands but passengers by the high-way and generally the ordinary sort of Turkes vse grasse in stead of this towell Others carry about a table of leather coloured red or yellow which table shuts and opens like a purse and vpon it they can set but one dish at once it hanging hollow vpon certaine buckels Commonly they eate by the high-way vpon the ground and alwaies with their knees bended like our Taylors They seeth their meat till it be very tender so as they may breake it with theit fingers for they haue no kniues neither haue they variety of dishes set before them but all sitting in a circle fall vpon one dish Taking meat they all together say a short prayer or grace and talke not whilest they eate but silently fall hard to their worke They haue aboundance of all things for foode aswell of flesh excepting swines-flesh as of birds and other meates but they abstaine from fish They haue plenty of Corne at least sufficient for their temperate dyet which is exceeding good and farre bigger then ours They are ignorant of the Arts of birding fouling hunting or cookery and hauing no lasciuicus apetite prouoking them to gluttony are content with simple meates Their sobrietie in this kind cannot sufficiently be commended and since their greatest men can bee content to feede on rice and drinke water it is no maruell that with ease they keepe great Armies in the field All the Turkish housholdstuffe is contained in one poore pot to seeth meate in one spoone of wood one cup of leather or wood to drinke in a poore bed or matresse yea often a single couerled alone and the earth serues them for bedsteed table and stooles They haue no neede of a troope of cookes and scullions to dresse meate and make cleane dishes They willingly eate curds turned sower and mingled with bread and water commonly called Mishmish and fresh cheese or curds
six Quatrines a Soldo and two Deniers of Genoa a Quatrine 114 Soldi of Milan make a siluer Crowne 20 Soldi a Lire and a Lire and a halfe makes one Lire of Genoa For Turkey The siluer Crowne or Piastro worth fiue shillings English is giuen heere for 70 there for 80 or more Aspers A Meidine of Tripoli is an Asper and an halfe a Meidine of Caiero three Aspers and an Asper some three farthings English For France Twelue Deniers make a Soulz fourteene Soulz and a halfe a Testoone fifteene Soulz a Quart d'escue twenty Soulz a Franke sixtie Soulz a French Crowne or six shillings English AN ITINERARY VVRITTEN By FYNES MORYSON Gent. First in the Latine Tongue AND THEN TRANSLATED By him into ENGLISH AN ITINERARY WRITTEN BY FYNES MORYSON Gent. CONTAINING His ten yeeres trauels thorovv TWELUE DOMINIONS The First Part. The First BOOKE CHAP. I. Of my iourny from London in England to Stode Hamburg Lubeck Luneburg my returne to Hamburg and iourney to Magdeburg Leipzig Witteberg and the neighbouring Cities in Germany BEing a Student of Peter-house in Cambridge and entred the eighteenth yeere of my age I tooke the degree of Bachelar of Arts and shortly after was chosen Fellow of the said Colledge by Queene Elizabeths Mandat Three yeers expired from my first degree taken in the Vniuerfitie I commenced Master of Arts and within a yeere after by the fauour of the Master and Fellowes I was chosen to a vacant place of Priuiledge to studie the Ciuill Lawes Then as well for the ornament of this profession as out of my innated desire to gaine experience by trauelling into forraigne parts to which course my Parents had giuen consent some few yeers past vpon my first declaring of my inclination to the said profession vpon the priuiledge of our Statutes permitting two of the Society to trauell I obtained licence to that purpose of the said Master and Fellowes in the yeere 1589 being then full 23 yeeres old And presently leauing the Vniuersiy I went to London there to follow some studies fit to inable me in this course and there better taught and these studies the visiting of my friends in the Country my going to Oxford to take the same degree I had in Cambridge and some oppositions vpon new deliberation made by my father and friends against my iourney detained me longer in those parts then I purposed At last in the beginning of the yeere 1591 and vpon the first day of May I tooke ship at Liegh distant from London twenty eight miles by land and thirtie six by water where Thames in a large bed is carried into the Sea Thence we set saile into the maine and the eight day of our sailing the Merchants Fleet of sixteene ships being dispersed by a fogge and tempest two Dunkerke Pirats followed our ship till by Gods mercy the fog being cleared after some few houres and two of our ships vpon our discharging of a great Peece drawing towards vs the Pirates despairing left to pursue vs. That they were Pirates was apparant since as wee for triall turned our sayles they likewise fitted themselues to our course so as wee though flying yet prepared our selues to fight till God thus deliuered vs. The ninth day towards night wee fell vpon an Iland called the Holy-land vulgarly Heiligland and not daring to enter the Riuer Elue before the next morning wee strucke all sayles and suffered our ship to bee tossed too and fro by the waues all that night which Marriners call lying at Hull This Iland hath onely one Port capeable of some sixe ships in the forme of the Moone decreasing and lying open to the East On the North side is a great Rocke and the rest of the shore is all of high Cliffes It is subiect to the Duke of Holste and by that title to the King of Denmarke but the inhabitants are so poore as they yeeld no other tribute then stones for the Dukes building It is in circuit some three miles and hath about one hundred Families The tenth day we entred the Riuer Elue and landed at Stode This is an ancient Citie and one of the Empires free Cities and one of those Sea-Townes which from the priuiledge of traffick with their Neighbours are called Free Cities vulgarly Hansteten but of late was become so poore as they had sold the priuiledge of coyning money and some like Rights to Hamburg till the English Merchants remouing their seate of trafficke from Hamburg to Stode it began lately to grow rich not without the enuy and impouerishment of the Hamburgers In the Dutch Inns I paid for each meale foure Lubeck shillings and an halfe and in the English Innes eight pence English In the great winding and troubled Streame of Elue which ebs and flowes as high as Luneburg certaine Booyes are laid to shew the channels and sholes of the Riuer and the maintaining of each of them cost 40 pounds yeerely and of all a thousand pounds at the least at the common charge of Stode and Hamburg but after frosts begin they are taken vp and reserued to the next Spring Of old when Stode flourished this charge belonged onely to it taking some contributions of the other Cities for the same This free Citie had then chosen the Bishop of Breme for their Protector and had but small scattered reuenewes to the value of ninety pounds sterling by the yeere but the soile is so fertile as they milke their Cowes thrice each day Of late the Hamburgers had in vaine attempted by Nauall forces to forbid the arriuall of the English at Stode whom as they had grieued hauing their seate with them as well with exactions as with forbidding them free exercise of Religion so now sometimes by laire treatie sometimes by force they laboured to draw backe vnto them Those of Stode haue by priuiledge the preemption and choice of Rhenish Wines passing by them This Citie might be made strong if the workes they haue begun were perfected The fields of the North and East sides may bee drowned and because the high Hilles towards the West and South though somewhat distant seemed to threaten danger they had on those sides raised an high and broad wall of earth fastned on the out-side with Willowes in which place an Armory for all munitions was built but the gates of the Citie for ridiculous ostentation of strength were furnished with Artillery of stone painted ouer The territory without the City belongs on the West side to the Bishop of Breame and on the East side to the Earle of Scbeneburg and the Duke of Holst From Stode to Hamburg are fiue miles In a Waggon hired for fiue Lubecke shillings each person wee passed two miles then crossing the Elue not without danger in respect of the shallow places and present storme wee hired another Waggon for foure Lubeck shillings each person and through thicke woods passed the other three miles to Hamburg The passage by water to Hamburg had beene much easier especially for
a stranger and a boat daily passeth from Stode thither in some three houres space if the winde bee not contrary wherein each man paies three Lubecke shillings for his passage but all Passengers without difference of condition must help to rowe or hire one in his stead except the winde bee good so as they need not vse their Oares besides that the annoyance of base companions will easily offend one that is any thing nice Hamburg is a Free Citie of the Empire and one of them which as I said are called Hansteten and for the building and populousnesse is much to be praised The Senate house is very beautifull and is adorned with carued statuaes of the nine Worthies The Exchange where the Merchants meet is a very pleasant place The Hauen is shut vp with an iron chaine The Citie is compassed with a deepe ditch and vpon the East and North sides with a double ditch and wall Water is brought to the Citie from an Hil distant some English mile by pipes of wood because those of lead would be broken by the yce and these pipes are to bee seene vnder the bridge whence the water is conuaied by them vnto each Citizens house The Territory of the Citie extendeth a mile or two and on one side three miles out of the walles It hath nine Churches and six gates called by the Cities to which they lead It is seated in a large plaine and a sandy soyle but hath very fatte pasture ground without On the South side and some part of the West it is washed with the Riuer Elue which also putteth a branch into the Towne but on the North and somewhat on the East side the Riuer Alster runneth by towards Stode and falleth into the Elue The streets are narrow excepting one which is called Broad-street vulgarly Breitgasse The building is all of bricke as in all the other Sea-bordering Cities lying from these parts towards Flanders and all the beautie of the houses is in the first entrance hauing broad and faire gates into a large Hal the lower part whereof on both sides is vsed for a Ware-house and in the vpper part lying to the view of the doore the chiefe houshold-stuffe is placed and especially their vessell of English Pewter which being kept bright makes a glittering shew to them that passe by so as the houses promise more beauty outwardly then they haue inwardly Here I paid each meale foure Lubeck shillings and one each night for my bed The Citizens are vnmeasurably ill affected to the English to whom or to any stranger it is vnsafe to walke out of the gates after noone for when the common people are once warmed with drinke they are apt to doe them iniury My selfe one day passing by some that were vnloading and telling of Billets heard them say these words Wirft den zehenden auff des Englanders kopf that is cast the tenth at the Englishmans head But I and my companions knowing well their malice to the English for the remouing their trafficke to Stode were content silently to passe by as if we vnderstood them not Hence I went out of the way to see Lubeck an Imperiall Citie and one of the aboue named Hans-townes being tenne miles distant from Hamburg Each of vs for our Coach paid twentie Lubeck shillings and going forth early wee passed through a marish and sandy plaine and many woods of Oakes which in these parts are frequent as woods of Firre be in the vpper part of Germany and hauing gone six miles we came to a Village called Altslow for the situation in a great marish or boggy ground where each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubeck shillings and a halfe our Dutch companions contributing halfe that money for drinke after dinner In the afternoone we passed the other foure miles to Lubeck in the space of foure houres and vntill we came within halfe a mile of the towne wee passed through some thicke woods of Oake with some faire pastures betweene them for the Germans vse to preserue their woods to the vttermost either for beautie or because they are so huge frequent as they cannot be consumed When we came out of the woods wee saw two faire rising Hills and the third vpon which Lubeck was feated On the top of this third Hill stood the faire Church of Saint Mary whence there was a descent to all the gates of the Citie whose situation offered to our eyes a faire prospect and promised great magnificence in the building The Citie is compassed with a double wall one of bricke and narrow the other of earth and broad fastned with thicke rowes of willowes But on the North side and on the South-east side there were no walles those parts being compassed with deepe ditches full of water On the South-east side the water seemeth narrow but is so deepe as ships of a thousand tunne are brought vp to the Citie to lie there all winter being first vnladed at Tremuren the Port of the City lying vpon the Baltick Sea To this Port one mile distant from Lubeck we came in three houres each man paying for his Coach fiue Lubeck shillings and foure for our dinner and returned backe the same night to Lubeck The building of this City is very beautifull all of bricke and it hath most sweete walkes without the walles The Citizens are curious to auoid ill smels to which end the Butchers haue a place for killing their beasts without the walles vpon a running streame Water is brought to euery Citizens house by pipes and all the Brewers dwelling in one street haue each of them his iron Cock which being turned the water fals into their vessels Though the building of this towne be of the same matter as that of the neighbouring townes yet it is much preferred before them for the beautie and vniformitie of the houses for the pleasant gardens faire streets sweete walkes without the walles and for the Citizens themselues who are much commended for ciuilty of manners and the strict execution of Iustice. The poore dwell in the remote-streets out of the common passages There is a street called the Funst Haussgasse that is the street of fiue houses because in the yeere 1278. it was all burnt excepting fiue houses since which time they haue a law that no man shall build of timber and clay except he diuide his house from his neighbours with a bricke wall three foot broad and that no man shall couer his house with any thing but tiles brasse or leade The forme of this Citie is like a lozing thicke in the midst and growing narrower towards the two ends the length whereof is from the gate called Burke Port towards the South to Millen Port towards the North. Wee entred the Towne by Holtz Port on the West side to which gate Hickster Port is opposite on the East side It is as long againe as broad and two streets Breitgasse that is Broad-street and Konnigsgasse that is Kings-street runne the whole
my studies at Bazell Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe I hyred a horse and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer desiring him to exclude my debtor from the priuiledge of the Monastery But this Dutch Gentleman finding mee to speake Latine readily tooke mee for some Schoole-master and despised both mee and my cause so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad hauing obtained no fauor But a better starre shined there on mee for the Consuls that day had determined in Court that my debtors horses should bee sought out and deliuered to mee and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee though I pressed them to receiue it Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away paid me my mony and I gladly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion hauing found by many testimonies I cannot sufficiently commend and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge Vpon the Lake Acrontiis vulgarly Boden-sea that is vpper sea I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz and paied for my passage three Batzen Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea vulgarly Vnden-sea this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke lengthwise and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch Arch-Duke of Austria whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City which is famous by a Councell held there whither Iohn Hus was called with the Emperours safe conduct in the yeere 1414 yet was there condemned of Heresie and burned On the West side of the Citie within the walles in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster is the Tower wherein he was imprisoned and without the walles on the left hand as you goeout is a faire meadow and therein a stone vpon the high-way to which he was bound being burnt the same yeere 1414 in the Month of Iuly Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September the yeere following both their ashes being cast into the Lake lest the Bohemians should carry them away The Senate-house in which this Councell was held is of no beauty When the Emperour Charles the fifth besieged this Citie it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia and brother to Charles who made the Citizens peace for them Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale and for wine betweene meales eight creitzers the measure Hence I went by boat two miles to Styga and paied for my passage two Batzen We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake and taking his name therein lost doth runne in all narrow bed and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe wee entred the lower Lake called vnden-Vnden-sea Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow of the riches the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands as the Monkes being sent to Rome vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson so as any such beast dieth presently in it and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke for which as they say the Venetians haue offered much money VVriters report that of old a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder to looke into a huge vessell of wine and being ouercome with the vapour fell into the same with a great bunch of keyes in his hand and that shortly after this wine was so famous as Princes and Nobles and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh till the vessell being empty the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order yet the Dutch in my company reported that this happened in a Monastery not farre off called Salmanschwell By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augsburg On the East-side out of the walles of Styga lye woody fields on the West-side the Iland Horue and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne In this City the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace who is Lord of the two Ilands Meinow and Reichnow and hath very large possessions in these parts mingled with the territories of other Lords And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen and paied for my passage two Batzen The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake and when it comes or rather violently breakes out of it then resumes it againe This City is one of the confederate Cantons of Sweitzerland Not farre from this City on the South side in the riuer Rheine is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vnlade here and to carry their goods by carts to the City and from the City to imbarke them againe which yeeldeth great profit to the City by taxations imposed on the goods which must necessarily be landed there On both sides the riuer as we came to this City are pleasant hils planted with vines faire pastures with sweet groues The City is round in forme and is washed with the Rheine on the South side and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne is a pleasant greene where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree giuing so large a shade as vpon the top it hath a kinde of chamber boarded on the floore with windowes on the sides and a cocke which being turned water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes by which it is conueyed thither for washing of glasses and other vses and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together there being sixe tables for that purpose On the same South side is a Monastery with walles and gates like a little City It hath the name of 〈◊〉 that is a sheepe or Schiff that is a ship and Hausse that is a house as of a fold for 〈◊〉 or roade for shippes Here I paid for each meale six batzen For the better vnderstanding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel To the Right Worshipfull Master Doctor Iohn Vlmer IN those few houres I staid at Schafhusen you haue made me your Seruant for euer I remember the houres of our conuersation which for the sweetnes thereof seemed minutes to me I remember the good offices you did towards me a stranger with gentlenes if not proper to your selfe yet proper
sea for feare of the abouesaid dangers had sent me by land with command to stay for him at Leyden To bee briefe I went to your mothers house where a seruant opened mee the doore to whom I gaue your Letters but when he scarce looking at me would haue locked the doore I took my Letters againe saying I had promised to deliuer them with my owne hand and so I entred with him and gaue them into the hands of your mother and sister who inquired much after you and so much after my master as I might perceiue you had made friendly mention of me in your Letters They entertained me with much curtesie being thus disguised for my owne seruant and when I went away your mother would needs giue mee six batzen to spend neither would any refusall preuaile but I must needs take them So I set a marke vpon these peeces left I should spend them and am not out of hope ere I die to shew them to you To the purpose at the dore I met your brother whom I had seene at Frankfort and was not a little afraide left for all my disguising he would haue knowne me Let it not trouble you that I tell you another merry accident I had in the same City of Breme Disguised as I was I went to the house of Doctor Penzelius desiring to haue the name of so famous a Diuine written in my stemme-booke with his Mott after the Dutch fashion Hee seeing my poore habite and a booke vnder my arme tooke me for some begging Scholler and spake sharpely vnto me But when in my masters name I had respectiuely saluted him and told him my request he excused his mistaking and with all curtesie performed my desire I will trouble you no longer but hope by some good occasion to imbrace you tell you all the other passages of my iourney In the meane time I go forward to Leyden in Holland you as you do euer loue me and as my soule liue and farewell From Emden the twenty one of October 1592. I paied twenty foure Stiuers for my passage eleuen miles in a waggon from Stode to Breme And the first day after breakefast wee passed three miles to Ford a poore Citie subiect to the Bishop of Breme through wilde fenny and woody grounds The Towne is seated in a Fenne hauing a long paued Causey to passe vnto it and the gate being opened to vs by night each man gaue the Porter two Lubeck shillings and by the way in a village ' each man paied six Fenning for his person At Ford the Bishop of Breme hath a Castle strongly fortified with Rampiers of earth and deepe ditches full of water and here each man paied for his supper three Lubeck shillings and a halfe The waggoner taking me thus disguised as formerly I haue said for a poore Bawre said these words to me in Dutch Du knecht hilff zu tragen die packe hye that is Ho good fellow helpe here to carry this pack I answered ya gar gern yea most willingly and smiling laied my shoulder to the burthen and groned deepely but helped him very little Next morning early by Moone light we passed on three miles through large and wilde woods to a Countrey house and by the way my companions fell in talke of English affaires so foolishly as my laughter though restrained had often betraied me if twi-light had not kept mee from being seene Their ignorance greatly shortned my way with the pleasure I took in their answeres to some such questions propounded by me whereof my selfe had many times beene forced to giue an account to others By the way they shewed mee a Hill called Meineidig of certaine false witnesses of old sinking there into the ground At this Countrey house each man paied for his breakfast three Lubeck shillings and a halfe Then from sixe of the clocke in the morning till nine we passed fiue miles to Breme through an Heath and many huge Woods of Oake hauing towards the South a Fenne of tenne miles length which of the vastnesse and wildenesse is called the Diuels Fenne By the way within a mile of Breme each man paied halfe a Sesling tribute to the officers of the City and from thence wee passed a winding paued Causey to the very City Men may also passe from Hamburg to Breme by water This Citie is one of the Imperiall free Cities and of them which vpon this Sea-coast are called Hans-steten for freedome of trafficke and it is very strongly fortified with high walles of earth and deepe ditches filled with water besides that the Citizens may drowne the Fenny fields almost round about at pleasure The building of this as also of the neighbour Cities is partly of bricke partly of stone and very faire but the streets heere are filthy The Citie is fiue miles distant from the sea And the riuer Visurgis running from the South east to the North VVest by the South west side of the City runneth al the length of the same On the North east side the walles of earth are broad and there bee three faire gates with strong Rampiers Vpon the South West side being compassed all with Fennes there bee no walles In the furthest angle or corner towards the North west where the City growes narrow there is a strong Fort built the gate is within an Iland beyond which lies a plaine of faire pastures Osen-bridge lies not farre hence from which towne great quantity of narrow linnen cloth is brought into England At Breme I paied halfe a Doller for dinner supper and breakfast and a stiebkin or measure of wine extraordinary They had heere also the custome of making strangers free and the same ceremony of giuing salt to sweare by and I confessing that I was not free committed my fine to their censure hoping they would deale better with mee for my poore disguised habit but it saued me nothing the chiefe man saying to mee in Dutch Gutt gesell du must gedult haben es geit gleich bistu knecht oder here deise gewonheit betrefft beyde zu gleich That is good fellow thou must haue patience it is all one whether thou beest a seruant or a master this custome toucheth both alike After dinner taking my iourney from Breme wee passed a mile vpon a stony Causey called Steinweck that is stony way and there each man paied to the officers of Breme a quarter of a Stiuer Then entering the Territory of the Graue that is Count of Oldenburg we passed a mile through faire pastures compassed with ditches of water to a village where each man paid a Sesling to the Count and to this place each man paid for his Waggon fiue groates Here when my companions had drunke their fill and had slept a while in the straw as my selfe did vpon a bench to shun the stinking heat of the stoue we hyred another waggon for three miles paying fifteene groats and that we might more securely passe wee tooke our iourney
in the morning to twelue We come out at first tenne companions in this iourney but at the very comming out 〈◊〉 six of them left vs despairing to passe against a contrary winde in a foule rainy day and their feet sticking fast in the dirt and they mocked at our obstinacy in going Within a while my selfe was wet to the skinne and my shooes at euery step were almost to the off so as I was forced to binde them on with foure points neither did any of vs looke backe at his fellow to helpe him if hee could not follow and if I should haue fallen into the Sea I am confident none of them would haue come back to succour me After we had gone halfe a mile one of our foure companions being a young man with a blacke beard able body would not goe one foot further though he had but one Stiuer in his purse and was forced to borrow money of vs that he might stay in a poore Ale-house When we came to Aldernsea the Free-booters spies came to the Inne gaped vpon vs so as though I were wet to the skin yet I durst not pull off any thing to dry sest my inward garments better then my vpper should betray my disguise neither durst I call for wine and spend freely lest they should thinke I had store of money Each of vs paied seuen Stiuers for his dinner Here another of our companions left vs being so tired as hee went to bed without eating one bit So as now I had onely one companion left called Anthony a man of little stature and a Citizen of Emden We so be free of this dangerous iourney went forward and as we came out of the Village the Free-booters spies came close to vs and beheld vs narrowly but seeing vs all couered with dirt they tooke vs for poore men and a prey vnfit to be followed Wee gathering vp strength went on till at last wee were so weary as hauing no strength to chuse our way wee cast away our staues and went almost vp to the knees in dirt in the lower way At last hauing gone one mile as me thought wondrous long from one of the clocke in the afternoone to fiue wee came to Emden where my selfe entring the gate could not stand till the Souldiers writ our names but had lyen downe on the ground if they had not giuen mee a seat Now being out of all danger of the Free-booters in giuing my name I wrote my selfe an English-man the standers by not a little wondring that I had put my self to this dangerous passage And truly this iourney if it were free from all danger yet the ill diet and lodging would yeeld trouble enough for which I appeale to Lipsius who hath pleasantly written of the entertainement in West-Phalen and Oldenburg The Citie of Emden lies in the vtmost border of the Empire and is onely diuided by the Riuer Emsz from the vnited Prouince of Netherland and by an Inland Sea from West Freez-land being one of them The Countrey about Emden aboundeth with villages and from a Tower at Goricome a man may see at once vpon a saire day twenty two walled Townes Not farre from this City neere 〈◊〉 is the place where the Duke of Alūa defeated the forces of Lodwick of Nassaw his Dutch-men refusing to fight except they were first paied All the fields about Emden are drowned in winter and the City lying vpon the Sea for want of fresh waters they dresse most of their meat with raine water The aire is very vnhealthfull but the City is fairely built of bricke and the Citizens are very curteous On the South side the Riuer Emsz washeth the City with his salt streames on which side is the Hauen and the Citizens are said to haue some three score ships of a hundred tunnes a peece and some six hundred barkes of their owne In the Church-yard on this side many peeces of Ordinance are laid towards Leere and Dunort the Counts Fort and the like are laid vpon the Hauen and some places of aduantage for the City hath no walles on this side On the West side beyond the water lyeth Marish ground to the mouth of the Sea and vpon this side is a strong old Castle On the North side the City is compassed with a wall of earth and deepe ditches full of water and there be two strong gates Belgar-port and New-port without which the fields are Fenny On this side there is a passage by boat to the suburbes on the East side where the fields without the towne are faire pastures in summer but all ouerflowed in winter and vpon the Rampier of the wall are many Winde-mils The City is of a round forme if it were not somewhat longer from the East to the West At Emden they pay ordinarily six Stiuers a meale three stiuers for a quart of English beere eleuen Stiuers for a quart of Spanish wine thirteene Stiuers a quart of Rhenish wine and seuen Stiuers for French wine my selfe paid for supper and breakfast twenty three Stiuers CHAP. IIII. Of my iourney from Emden in Germany to Leyden in Holland and through the vnited Prouinces of the Low-Countries ON Thursday the twenty seuen of October in the yeere 1592 I tooke ship after dinner at Emden being to saile into West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces and paied for my passage tenne Stiuers The same night wee cast anchor neere Vrspenhurn a Fort seated beyond the Emsz and belonging to the States of the vnited Prouinces and beyond this Port towards Plaunders on the same side of the Emsz lieth the Territory of the City Groning seated in an Iland rich in pastures and at this time gouerned by a Spanish Garrison which the Citizens had willingly receiued though the States after besieged this City and droue out the Spaniards and vnited the City to the rest As we lay at Anchor two little Ilands lay on the North side one subiect to Emden the other to Groning and beyond them lay the German Sea On Friday wee set saile with a scant winde and towards night were left vpon a Flat vulgarly called Gat where the water forsaking vs we walked out of the ship vpon the sand compassed round about with the Sea till the same flowing backe againe our ship floated On Saterday we set saile againe and towards night rested vpon a like Flat expecting the floud Three of these Flats are in this Inland sea and there be two like Flats in the Inland sea beteene Freesland and Holland At last wee landed on Sunday in Freesland at the Village Aniou lying neere the Sea shore whether wee hired a sledge for eight stiuers and were drawne thither ouer the yce and snow After we had dined for twelue stiuers each man whereof more then halfe was reckoned for drinke we went in a skeut by water in foure houres space one mile to Dockam and each man paid for his passage foure stiuers and a halfe we could not passe
by the way I obserued that the vvaggons hauing past more then halfe the way must haue the way giuen them by all the waggons they meet because their horses should in reason be most weary At Harlam I paied for supper bed and breakfast twenty fiue stiuers Hence I vvent by vvaggon and paied for my part of it sixteene stiuers for three miles to Amsterdam and there receiuing my money returned to Harlam drawne ouer the snow and ice which had plentifully fallen on a sledge for which I paid foure stiuers and I obserued many markes set vp in the fields to direct the way to passengers From Harlam I returned to Leyden where I lodged in a French-mans house for intending to bestow all my time in the French tongue till by Letters I should dispose of my estate in England and there being a famous Vniuersity in this City I found no abiding fitter for me then this I paid for my diet and chamber in this French-mans house three guidens and fifteene stiuers weekely but in the common Innes they pay ten or fifteene stiuers a meale according to the quantity of beere they drinke and ordinarily twenty stiuers or more if they drinke wine Leyden is so called of the words Legt bey de dunen that is lieth by the Downes so they call the sandy bankes of the Sea as the English doe likewise in Kent Leyden is of a round forme or perhaps somewhat longer from the East to the West where the Rheine passeth by it It is a City of much beauty the houses are very fairely built of bricke and be vniforme The Churches are couered with long slates as they be almost through all Holland and among the streetes one is much fairer then the rest in the middest whereof is a peece of ground railed in where the Merchants meet Many streetes are diuided with waters which are passed by woodden bridges and in deede if a man dig two foote in any part of Holland he shall find water I said that the Rheine passeth by this City yet doth it not fall into the Sea but leeseth it selfe in many standing ditches of water in this low part of the continent Toward the North-west about a mile from the City there is the end of a ditch digged of old from the very City vulgarly called Malgatt because the Citizens spent much treasure in a vaine hope to make a Hauen for ships and a nauigable water to come vp to the Towne for the heapes of sand daily cast vp by the Sea filled the place vp where they thought to haue made the Hauen as fast as they could dig it yet was it long before they would cease from this ill aduised worke Notwithstanding salt water comes vnder the earth from the Sea into this ditch and they carry the same vnto the City to make salt thereof Vpon the same Sea-shore towards the North and like distance from the City is a Village called Catwicke seated vpon Mountaines of sands on the maine sea Vpon the same shore further towards the North is a place where they say the Romans of old had an Armory the ruines whereof some musket shot from the shore more or lesse appeare as the wind couers them with sand or blowing from another quarter driues away the sand and so laies them open Hereabouts they say that many coines of the Romans are oftentimes digged vp and neere the Hoch-landish Church is a Monument built by Caligula the Emperour which now belongs to a Gentleman of that Countrey Vpon the North side of this city the Villages Warmond and Nortwicke lie vpon the aforesaid Downes but the City hath no gate that directly leades to them Leyden hath fiue gates Regenspurgport on the West side which leadeth to Harlam and to Catwicke and white port which leadeth to Hage betweene which gates there is a low water-gate of iron grates for boates to passe in and out Neere White Port lies a house where they exercise shooting with the Peece and Crosse-bow On the South side is the gate Kow-port leading into the pastures Vpon the East side is the gate Hochwertz-port more fortified then any of the rest and it leadeth to Vberden Gonda and to Alphen There is another gate Zillport which leadeth ro Vtretcht whither you passe by water or land The foresaid street which I said was the beauty of the Towne lieth from the West to Hochwertzport on the East side and is called Breitstrat that is Broadstreete In the spring time of the yeere 1593 purposing to see the Cities of the vnited Prouinces I hired a Waggon for sixe stiuers and went from Leyden to Delph three miles in three houres space through corne fields and rich pastures and hauing gone two third parts of the way we passed ouer the water that runnes from Leyden to Delph In all these parts the high way hath ditches on both sides and is very plaine sandy and very dry being daily repaired by the countrey people By the way is a mill in which they make oyle of rape and line seedes mingled with wallnut shels and they haue many such miles in those parts Not farre of at Voberg the Histories write of a holy Groue famous for a conspiracy against the Romans The City of Delph lyeth in length from the North to the South and the falrest street called Corne-mart lies the same way Here as in all the Cities of these parts the buildings are of bricke but the houses of Delph are more stately built and seeme to haue more antiquity then other where In the New Church is a Monument of the Prince of Orange the poorest that euer I saw for such a person being onely of rough stones and morter with posts of wood coloured ouer with black and very little erected from the ground Neere the Church is a large market-place and within a little Iland the Senate house is built The Hauen is on the South side The Prince of Orange dwelt heere in a Monastery and vsed to eat in a low parlor whence as he ascended the staires into the chamber a wicked murtherer gaue him his deaths wound who flying by a backe doore was after taken in the Citie and put to a most cruell but most deserued death The Countesse of Buren daughter to this said Prince now liued in this Monastery with her family Here I paied for one meale for my selfe and a guest inuited by me and two pots of Rhenish wine three guldens and fiue stiuers When the Spanish Army most pressed the vnited Prouinces the Prince of Orange then lying here to shunne a greater mischiefe from the Spaniards brake downe the bankes of the sea and let in the waters which did much hurt to the Countrey but saued them from the Spaniards who with great feare hasted away giuing great rewards to those that guided them to the firme continent At Delph are about three hundred Brewers and their beere for the goodnesse is called Delphs-English but howsoeuer they had Brewers and the very
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
Parishes at once by a famous flood were within lesse then 200. yeeres agoe swallowed vp of the Sea and for witnes of this calamity diuers Towers farre distant the one from the other appeare in this Sea and according to the ebbing and flowing more or lesse seene doe alwaies by their sad spectacle put the passengers in mind of that wofull euent And the Hollanders say that these flouds caused the Rheine to change his bed as hereafter I shall shew in the due place From Count Maurice his Campe at Getrudenberg I failed in six houres space to the Iland Plate and at midnight putting forth againe failed in ten houres space to the Iland Tarlot and from thence in three houres space to the City Bergenapzome where we landed By the way we saw one of the aforesaid Towers high aboue the water being a steeple of some parish Church swallowed vp in the said deluge of which there be many like sad remembrances in this Inland sea The channell leading to the City is called Forcemer and hath vpon the banke many strong sorts and in this channell lay a man of warre to defend passengers from the bordering enemy This City is strongly fortified and is sented in Brabant and had many castles of the enemy lying neerert and it was gouerned by a garison of English not in the Queenes but in the States pay as Ostend at that time was whereas Virshing and Brill pledged to the Queen for money wore kept by English Garisons in the Queenes pay and Sir Thomas Morgan was at this time Gouernour of this City At out entrance euery man gaue his nameto the Guard Without the City on the West side many akers of land were drowned when the Prince of Orange as I said let in the waters to driue the Spaniards out of those parts which from that day to this could neuer be dried and gained againe On this side I entered the City where be many poore houses built in forme of a Lutes necke which being added to the City almost of a round forme make the whole City much like vnto a Lute On this side were three strong rauelings and vppon the necke of the said Lute is the Hauen in the channell Forcemer which going no further into the land endeth in a mill made of purpose to keepe the ebbing water so as the ditches may alwaies be full On the North side is the prison not vnpleasant for situation and the English House and the House of the Gouernour which of old belonged to the Count of Brabant Betweene the Gates wouldport and Stephenbergport which are both strongly fortified the Riuer Zome fals into the Towne whereof it hath the name yet the channell being stopped it seemes here a standing water rather then a Riuer Towards the East the City is very strongly fortified and there is the Gate Boskport so called as I thinke of the word Bosco which in the Italian tongue signifies a wood for on this side without the gates were many woods and orchards till they were destroied in the warre On this side is another Raueling of great length and beyond the fortifications lie faire pastures but somewhat couered with waters And from hence wee might see Woudcastle scarce three English miles distant which was then possessed by the Spaniards On the South side is a new fort beyond a strong bulwarke and a very strong counterscarp compassing the City And from hence was of old a most pleasant walke vnder the shade of trees to the old castle some mile distant On this side in a pleasant groue were many such birds as I said to be at Dort vulgarly called Adherne much esteemed for the fethers they beare in their fore head and there is a penalty set on those that hurt or driue them away On this side also is the English Church and vpon this and the East sides the Prince of Parma in camped when hee besieged this City There is in the middest of the City a triangular market place and from the sharpe end thereof towards the West siue rauelings run beyond the wals The houses are built of bricke and seeme to be built of old The Church hath a very high steeple whence the watchmen shew the comming and number of horse-men by hanging out white flagges and of foot by redde All the Villages hereabouts though liuing vnder the Spaniard yet pay contribution to this Garrison lest the souldiers should vpon aduantage breake out and spoile them The Citizens liue of mannall arts and the expences of the Garison From hence I sayled to Midleburge and at one ebbe of the Sea passed in seuen houres space to Der-goese and at another ebbe in foure houres space to Armaren a City of the Iland Walkern belonging to Zealand and I paid for my passage six stiuers From hence in halfe an houre I walked on foot to Midleburge the houses whereof are stately built and very high especially the new City and are all of bricke as be the Cities of Holland and as be the houses of Vlishing but some of these are stately built of free stone yet the streetes are somewhat narrow Here I paid for my supper fiue stiuers in the English House where the Host is onely bound to prouide for the Merchants and such gucsts as they inuite yet many times he admits English Gentlemen both to lodge and eat there The House lies in the street Longdels and howsoeuer the Merchants cat there yet they hier their lodgings scatteringly in the City and refused an Abbey which the Senators offered them to lodge therein perhaps out of feare lest in any ciuill tumult they might more easily be wronged if they should all lie together This City is the Staple of all Merchandise excepting Rhenish wine for which by old priuiledge Dorte is the Staple Therefore French and Spanish Wines are here sold much more cheape then other where because they are free of impost in this place and haue great impositions laid on them being carried out to other Cities The forme of the City is round saue that on the East side the buildings of the new City being vnperfected made it to haue the forme of a halfe Moone though the plot thereof were round Comming from Armuren I entered on this East side by a very faire gate called the New Gate where the water falling into the Towne passeth to the Burse where the Merchants meet There is a publike House for shooting the wall on this side as round about the City is of stone and is rather adorned then fortified with some Towers And this wall is double vpon the Inner whereof compassed with deepe ditches many Houses are built On the West side without the gates almost halfe way to Vlishing is Rammakins Castle kept by English Souldiers sent from Vlishing to that purpose being a place of great importance because the channell going to Midleburge runnes within the command of their Artillery On this South side is the Hauen and without the wals very faire pastures
to the vttermost part of the Iland Also on this side is a new Hauen made for ships in the winter time and the gate is called Rammakins Port of the said Castle On the West side you may see Vlishing a mile off and in a cleere day the Downes of Kent in England On this side within the wals is a round market place and the Senate-house of anticke building and two Gates called of the Cities to which they leade Vlishing port and Longe-ville port On the North side is an Abbey and pleasant walking and another publike House for exercise of shooting This populous City hath onely two Churches either because the people being of many sects in Religion and much occupied in trafficke scarce the third part comes to Church or else because the people being much increased by strangers comming to dwell in these parts vpon the stopping of the passage to Antwerp in the ciuill warres it is no wonder that the old Churches will not receiue them The Citizens may at pleasure drownd all the fields about them And this one and the chiefe Iland of Zealand called Walkerne containeth siue walled Cities besides Villages but the aire is reputed vnwholsome Midleburge is the chiefe place of trafficke in Zealand as Amsterdam in Holland From hence I went in a long Waggon couered with hoopes and cloth to Vlishing a long mile and paid for my passage two blankes Ten English foot companies one hundred and fifty in each company vnder the gouernment of Sir Robert Sidney kept this strong Towne for the Queene of England and vnder her pay being ingaged to her for money lent the States and the ten Captaines in course watched each third night The City is little and of a round forme but very strong It hath a narrow Sea on the West side where vpon the last confines of Zealand and the vnited Prouinces is one of the three passages whereof I formerly spake to the Maine Sea On this side is the Mountaine of the Mill where the Souldiers watch nightly and beyond the Mountaine is a damme to let in the Sea at pleasure On the South side is the Gate Waterport strongly fortified lying vpon the Inland Sea On this side towards the North the Sea flowing into the Towne maketh one Hauen and towards the East another and diuideth the City into three parts the Old the New and the Middle whereof any one being taken by the enemy yet the other are fortified for defence Beyond these Hauens or channels is a Mountaine lying ouer the City vpon which the Souldiers kept guards day and night as they did likewise vpon the Bridge diuiding the Cities and vpon other lower hils at all the gates of the City and in prayer time at the doore of the English Church This Church is on the East side and is common to the English and Dutch at diuers houres Betweene the high mountaine this Church was the Gouernours House belonging of old to the Counts of Zealand and the publike house for exercise of shooting but lesse pleasant then the like houses are in other Cities On the same East side lie two waies one to Rammakins Castle the other to Midleburge On the North side the Downes of Kent in England may easily be seene and there is the Hospitall or Gast-house for sicke people and for sicke and maimed souldiers of which a Mountaine thereby hath the name On this and the East sides are two Mils to retaine the water when the Sea ebs that the ditches round about may alwaies be filled and if need be to ouerflow the fields These ditches are commonly a pikes depth and can by no art or enemy be dried The Citizens want good water hauing no wels nor any fresh water but raine water kept in Cesternes The foresaid number of Souldiers in the Garrison was not sufficient to master the Citizens onely their couragious minds dispising death kept the Citizens in such awe as they durst not attempt to recouer their liberty by force which they hoped to obtaine by peaceable meanes and the vnited Prouinces depended vpon the opinion of the Queenes aid perhaps more then vpon the aid it selfe so as either failing they were like to be a prey to the Spaniards Since that time I heard the Garison was diminished so as it seemes the English had lesse strength to keepe it if the States changing their minds should attempt to surprise it Being inuited by my English friends I spent nothing in this City Hence I returned to Midleburge on foot vpon a paued causcy hauing on each side rich corne fields and faire pastures with many orchards and in the mid-way a Gentleman called Aldegondey famous for his wisdome hath his Castle wherein he dwelt At Midleburge I paid six stiuers for my supper and two for my bed and prouiding victuals to carry by Sea I paid for a loyne of mutton twenty foure stiuers as also for my washing seuen stiuers and staying in the Towne two daies I spent in all foure guldens and foure stiuers I tooke ship at ten in the morning and betweene the Iland Der-goese and the Inland Sea called Zurechsea I saw two Towers of Villages swallowed in the foresaid deluge and sayling by the Iland Plate and the Iland of Brill we passed certaine booyes directing to find the channell The next day in the afternoone I landed at Roterodam in Holland and paid ten stiuers for my passage Thence I passed in two houres space by boat to Delph and paid two stiuers for my passage Thence in two houres space I passed to the Hage by Waggon and paid for my passage two stiuers for which iourney one man alone may hire a Waggon for seuen stiuers At the Hage Count Maurice with his mother in law the Countesse of Orange born of the Noble Family of the Chastillons in France and the Generall States of the vnited Prouinces and Princes Ambassadours haue their residence which made me desirous to stay here a while to which purpose I hired a chamber for which for my bed sheets tableclothes towels and dressing of my meat I paid twenty fiue stiuers weekely I bought my owne meat and liuing priuatly with as much frugality as conueniently I might I spent by the weeke no more then fiue guldens and a halfe though all things were in this place extraordinarily deere My beere in one weeke came to foureteene stiuers and among other things bought I paid for a quarter of lambe thirty stiuers for a Hen seuen stiuers for a Pigeon foure stiuers for a Rabet three stiuers I remember not to haue seene a more pleasant village then this great part of the houses are fairely built of bricke though many of them in by-streetes be couered with thatch and some few are stately built of free-stone The village hath the forme of a Crosse and vpon the East side comming in from Leyden there is a most pleasant Groue with many wild walkes like a maze and neerer the houses is another very pleasant walke
set round about with willowes Here is the publike house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow which hath a sweet prospect into a large greene plaine where they vse to spread linnen clothes in the sunne and here certaine rowes of trees being planted yeeld a pleasant shade to them that walke therein One of the said rowes of trees called Vinareberg leades to an old Castle of the Counts of Holland compassed with a drie ditch in which Count Maurice dwelt but in the great Hall thereof were many shops of Merchants for small wares Vpon the wals of the said Castle and vpon the windowes of the Church these words were written in latine To Charles the fifth c. To the most inuincible Caesar Charles the fifth Roman Emperour the victorious desender of the Catholike Religion and Augustus The Prouisors of this House haue placed this in the yeere 1547. Thereby was the statua of Charles the fifth kneeling on his knees In the window were painted the Armes of all the Knights of the golden Fleece The Histories of the Countrey report the building of this Pallace to be wonderfull in that the top of the Hall is not ioined with beames but with arches but for my part I obserued no great magnificence in the worke The second of the foresaid rowes of trees called Furholt leads to a gentlemans house the fairest most stately built in this Village In the middest of the Hage lies the market place and the Church On the South side is the water that leader to Delph and round about on all sides without the Village are faire pastures excepting the North-side where the sandy downes of the Sea lie neere to the Village In the Church is a Monument of Count Albertus Duke of Bauria and another of a Count of Hanaw with diuers others which I omit as hauing no antiquity or magnificence While I staied at the Hage I walked out in halfe an houres space to the village Lausdune where I saw a wonderfull monument the History whereof printed in a paper the Earle of Leicester as they said had carried with him into England leauing onely the same in written hand the coppy whereof I will set downe first remembring that two basens of brasse hanged on the wall in which the children whereof I shall speak were baptized The manuscript was in latine a followeth En tibi monstrosum nimis memorabile factum Quale nec a Mundi conditione datum Haec lege mox animo stupefactus lector abibis So strange and monstrous thing I tell As from the worlds frame nere befell He parts amasde that markes it well The rest in latine is thus englished Margaret wife to Hermanuus Count of Henneberge daughter to Florence Count of Holland and Zealand sifter to William King of the Romans and Caesar or Gouermour of the Empire This most noble Countesse being about forty two yeeres old the very day of preparation called Paraseene about nine of the clocke in the yeere 1276. brought forth at one birth three hundred sixty fiue children which being baptized in two basens of brasse by Guido suffragan of Vtretcht all the males were called Iohn and all the females Elizabeth but all of them together with the mother died in one and the same day and lie buried here in the Church of Lausdune and this happened to her in that a poore woman bearing in her armes two twinnes the Countesse wondering at it said shee could not haue them both by one man and so reiected her with scorne whereupon the woman sore troubled wished that the Countesse might haue as many childen at a birth as there be daies in the whole yeere which besides the course of nature by miracle fell out as in this table is briefly set downe for perpetuall memory out of old Chronicles as well written as printed Almighty God must be in this beheld and honoured and extolled with praises for euer and euer Amen From the Hage my selfe and other consorts hired a Waggon for two guldens and passed to Leyden hauing on both sides faire pastures fruitfull corne fields and some pleasant groues CHAP. V. Of my iourney out of the vnited Prouinces by the Sea coast to Stode and Lubeck in Germany Of my sauing to Denmarke and thence to Dantzk in Prussen and my iourney through Poland to Padoua in Italy IN the end of the Month of Iune and the yeere 1593 hauing now dispatched by Letters all my businesse in England and hauing seene the vnited Prouinces I was in doubt by what way I should returne into Italy and hauing already passed the two waies of Germany that by Augspurge and the other by the Sweitzers and the way by France being then shut vp by the ciuill warres the common desire of Trauellers not to passe the same way twice but to see as many new Countries as their course will permit made me resolue to passe through the Kingdomes of Denmarke and Poland and by the fortified City of Wien in Austria In which iourney howsoeuer I should goe much out of my way and was like to indure many troubles yet I thought nothing was difficult to a willing minde Therefore I hired a waggon from Leyden to Vtrecht and paied for my part twelue stiuers Wee passed three miles and a halfe in three houres by the village Alpha where the Spaniards incamped when they besieged Leyden and by a little Towne called Gonda hauing on both sides faire pastures but somewhat ouer flowed and ditches set with willowes and we came to a little village where the waggoner gaue his horses meat Then in foure houres space wee passed foure miles and a halfe hauing on both sides fruitfull corne fields and like ditches set with willowes and so we came to Vtrecht But a mile and a halfe before we came thither we passed out of the Territory of Holland and entred the Bishopricke of Vtrecht which is one of the vnited Prouinces Not farre from the City wee saw a crosse set vp for a Monument of a Bishop dying in battell against the Hollanders I had almost forgotten the little City Werden which they shewed vs by the way and told vs that the forme thereof was like the City of Ierusalem which at that time I had not seene and therefore mention this from their report rather then from my iudgement The City Vtrecht is seated in length from South-east by East to North-west by West and vpon the end at South-east by East is the gate Weitefraw where the Rheine enters the City At the other end Noth-west by West are the ruines of an old Castle which the Spaniards kept before the wars to bridle the City and there be two gates Saint Katherine-port and Wert-port each of them hauing their suburbes On the South-west side are walles of earth but the ditches were almost dry On the North-east side is the gate Olske-port and there bee three strong Rauelings one defending the other On this side bee two streets fairer then the
another Coach comming from Lubecke for Coaches passe daily betweene those Cities After dinner we passed foure miles in foure houres space through hils more thicke with woods but in many places bearing good corne and came to Lubecke For my place in the Coach this day I paid twenty lubecke shillings and this night for my supper and bed I paid sixe lubecke shillings Here I bought the foureteenth Booke of Amadis de Gaule in the Dutch tongue to practise the same for these Bookes are most eloquently translated into the Dutch and fit to teach familiar language and for this Booke I paid eighteene lubecke shillings and for the binding foure and for a Map of Europe to guide me in my iourney I paid foureteene lubecke shillings Also I paid for a measure of Rhenish wine fiue lubecke shillings and as much for a measure of Spanish wine From Lubcke I passed two miles in three houres space through fruitfull hils of corne and some woods of oake to the village Tremuren and paid for my coach the fourth part of a Doller which notwithstanding vseth to be hired for fiue lubecke shillings and for my supper I paid foure lubecke shillings I formerly shewed that this village is the Hauen where the great ships vse to be vnladed and from thence to be carried vpto lie at Lubecke in the winter Here I tooke ship to sayle into Denmarke vpon the Balticke Sea so called because it is compassed by the Land as it were with a girdle This sea doth not at all ebbe and flow or very little after it hath passed in by the streight of Denmarke being more then twenty foure miles long so as vpon the shoares of Prussen Muscaw and Suetia this sea seemes little to be moued and many times is frozen with ice from the shore farre into the sea and the waues thereof once stirred with the winds are very high neither is the water of this sea any thing so salt as otherwhere so as the ships sayling therein doe sinke deeper at least three spans then in the German Ocean as manifestly appeares by the white sides of the ships aboue water when they come out of this sea and enter the said Ocean And this will not seeme strange to any who haue seene an egge put into salt pits and how it swimmes being borne vp with the salt water The Master of the Lubecke ship in which I passed to Denmarke gaue me beere for foure lubeck shillings for which the Dutchmen and Danes drinking more largely paid but one lubecke shilling more and euery man had prouided victuals for himselfe I paid for my passage twenty foure lubecke shillings and gaue foure to the marriners From Lubecke they reckon twenty foure miles to Falsterboaden and from thence seuen miles to Coppenhagen so called as the Hauen of Merchants We left vpon our lefthand towards the South a little Iland called Munde and as I remember the third day of August landed at Drakesholme being one mile from Coppenhagen whether I passed in a Waggon through some pastures and barren corne fields and neere the City I passed ouer the Hauen from one Iland to another I paid for my Waggon three lubecke shillings At our entrance of the City on the East-side is the Kings Castle where the Court lies especially in winter time On this side the City lies vpon the sea and there is the said Hauen as likewise on the North-side the sea is little distant from the City When I entered the gates the guard of souldiers examined me strictly and the common people as if they had neuer seene a stranger before shouted at mee after a barbarous fashion among which people were many marriners which are commonly more rude in such occasions and in all conuersation The City is of a round forme in which or in the Kings Castle I obserued no beauty or magnificence The Castle is built of free-stone in a quadrangle The City is built of timber and clay and it hath a faire market place and is reasonably well fortified Here I paid for three meales and breakefast eight lubecke shillings and as much for beere The King at this time lay at Roschild purposing shortly to goe into the Dukedome of Holst where he had appointed a meeting of the gentlemen at Flansburge to receiue their homage there which vppon old piuiledges they had refused to doe vnto him in Denmarke Therefore I went foure miles in foure houres space through a wild hilly Country to Roschild so called of the Kings Fountaine and my selfe and one companion paid twenty lubecke shillings for our Waggon and though it were the moneth of August yet the wind blowing strong from the North and from the Sea I was very cold as if it had beene then winter Roschild hath a Bishop and though it be not walled hath the title of a City but well deserues to be numbred among faire and pleasant Villages Here they shew a whet stone which Albrecht King of Suetia sent to Margaret Queene of Denmarke despising her as a woman and in scoffe bidding her to whet her swords therewith but this Queene tooke the said King prisoner in that warre and so held him till death Here I paid seuen Danish shillings for my supper In the chancell of the Church is a monument of blacke and white stone for this Queene Margaret and her daughter and the Danes so reuerence this Queene as they haue here to shew the apparell she vsed to weare In this Church are the sepulchers of the Kings whereof one erected by Frederick for Christianus his father is of blacke Marble and Alablaster curiously carued hauing his statua kneeling before a Crucifix and hung round about with sixteene blacke flags and one red Hauing seene the King and the Courtiers my selfe and my companion next day returned to Coppenhagen each of vs paying for the waggon tenne Lubeck shillings and here I paid for my supper six Lubeck shillings and three for beere From hence I passed by sea foure miles in fiue houres space to Elsinure and paied for my passage eight Lubeck shillings and for my supper eight Danish shillings And because I was to returne hither to take ship for Dantzke I passed the next morning three miles in foure houres space through Hils of corne but somewhat barren and woods of Beech to Fredericksburg and hauing but one companion with mee wee paied for our waggon thither and so to Coppenhagen each of vs twenty two Lubeck shillings Here the King hath a Pallace and a little Parke walled in where among other forraine beasts were kept some fallow Deare transported hither out of England the twenty foure yeere of Queene Elizabeths raigne I paied for my dinner foure Danish shillings and as much for beere In the afternoone we passed fiue miles in six houres through barren fields of corne and groues of Beech and hasel-nuts to Cappenhagen and by the way we saw a Crosse set vp in memory of a waggoner who hauing drunke too much droue his
art When you enter the body of the Church there is the great Altar vnder which lies Saint Marke in a chest of brasse decked with Images of siluer guilded and with plates of gold and Images enamelled and with the Image of Christ sitting vpon a stately throne adorned with pillars of most white Marble and many precious stones and curiously engrauen At the backe of this Altar there is another which they call the Altar of the most holy Sacrament made of the best marble with a little doore of brasse decked with carued Images and with foure pillars of Alablaster transparant as Christall and highly esteemed and vpon the same hang euery day two lampes of Copper but at the times of feasts there hang two of pure siluer Moreouer the Organs are said to be the worke of a most skilfull Artificer In the higher gallery compassing the Church is the image of Pope Pelagius vnder which is a place where the holy relikes are kept which Pope Clement the eight gaue to Iohn Delphin Knight one of the Procurators of Saint Marke and Ambassadour at Rome for Venice namely a peece of a bone of Phillip the Apostle a peece of the cheeke-bone and foure teeth of the Martyr Saint Biagius peeces of bones of Saint Bartholmew and Saint Thomas forsooth of Canterbury and of the Apostles Saint Matthew and Saint Marke whose body they say is laid in the foresaid chest and part of the haire of the blessed Virgin and a peece of a finger of the Euangelist Luke and a peece of a ribbe of Saint Peter with many like which they shew to the people to be adored certaine daies in the yeere Aboue the Altar of Saint Clement these verses are written which shew how they worshipped Images in a more modest though superstitious age Nam Deus est quod I mago docet sed non Deus ipse Hane vide as sed mente colas quod cernis in ipsa That which the Image shewes is God it selfe is none See this but God heere seene in mind adore alone Likewise these verses of the same Author be in another place Effigiem Christi qui transis pronus horona Non tamen effigiem sed quod designat adora Esse deum ratione caret cui contulit esse Materiale lapis sicut manus effigiale Nec Deus est naec homo praesens quam cernis Imago Sed Deus est homo quem sacra signat Imago As thou Christs Image passest fall the same before Yet what this Image signifies not it adore No reason that it should be God whose essence stands Materiall of stone formall of workemens hands This Image which thou seest is neither God nor Man But whom it represents he is both God and Man At the entry of the Chancell is the throne of the Dukes made of walnut-tree all carued aboue the head and when the Dukes sit there it was wont to be couered with carnation satten but now it is couered with cloth of gold giuen by the King of Persia. There be two stately pulpits of marble with Histories carued in brasse where they sing the Epistles and Gospels On the left hand by the Altar of Saint Iames is a place where if a man may beleeue it the body of Saint Marke by a creuice suddenly breaking through the marble stone appeared in the yeere 1094. to certaine Priests who had fasted and praied to find the same the memory of the place where it was laied at the building of the Church about 829. being vtterly lost I beleeue that the memory thereof was lost about the yeere 829. when superstition was not yet ripe but that it was found in the yeere 1094. that age being infected with grosse superstition let him that list beleeue They themselues seeme to distrust this miracle while they confesse that the same body was most secretly laid vnder the great Altar and neuer since shewed to any man but once or twice and that after a suspicious manner To the foresaid pulpits another is opposite where the Musitians sing at solemne Feasts and from whence the Dukes newly created are shewed to the people and likewise the holy relikes as they tearme them are shewed twice in the yeere The wals in the Church are so couered with the best marbles as the lime and bricke cannot be seene and these peeces of marble with their spots and brightnes are very beautifull whereof two are held for admirable Monuments which are so ioined as they liuely represent the Image of a man Here Marino Morosini first of all the Dukes hung his Armes vppon the wals whom the other Dukes after him in number forty three haue followed and there hung vp their Armes In the middest of the Church hangs a banner giuen by the Citizens of Verona in token of subiection and two others for the same purpose giuen by the Citizens of Crema and Cremona The Marble pillars setin Caues vnder the Church beare vp the pauement which is made of peeces of the best marble carued and wrought with little stones of checker worke very curiously especially vnder the middle globe of the roofe and neere the great doore And among the rare stones opposite to the singers pulpit they shew one of such naturall spots as it is esteemed a Iewell which by change of colour they say doth shew the change of weather Moreouer they shew certaine Images carued by the direction of the Abbot Iohn Ioachim of old time whereof many shew future euents as that of two cockes carrying a wolfe vpon their backe which they vnderstand to be Lewis the twelfth and Charles the eight French Kings casting Lodouico Sfortia out of his Dukedome and in like sort to omit many other more hidden that of the Lyons fat in the waters and leane vpon land which they vnderstand to be the power of Venice by sea and the weakenes by land Besides they say the same Abbot caused the Images of Saint Dominicke and Saint Francis to be drawne vpon the doore of the Sanctuary long before they liued and the title of Saint is added to each of them but the name is not set vpon the pictures yet they both are painted in the habit of their order They shew two like pictures drawne by direction of the said Abbot whereof they vnderstand one to be the last Pope vnder whom shall be one shepheard and one fould but they say it is vnknowne what the other signifies Before the new Chappell of the blessed Virgin there be two little chambers whereof one is called the Sanctuary in which their holy relikes are kept the other is called the Iewell house because the treasure of Saint Marke so they appropriate all publike things to Saint Marke is there kept and it is vulgarly called Luogo aelle groie that is the place of the Iewels The Procurators of Saint Marke keepe this treasure and make no difficulty to shew it to strangers of the better sort In this place I saw the Ducall Cap vulgarly ill corne or
with the rich Porphery and Ophyte stones and the Marble Images of Saint Marke and Saint Iohn the Euangelist In the Church of Saint Andrew the fairest of this sextary and a cloyster of Nunnes the pictures of Christ crucified and of his supper with his Apostles and the most faire Altars of the Virgin Saint Anthony and Saint Nicholas In the Church of Saint George the greater giuing name to the Iland in which it is seated ouer against the market place of Saint Marke and the chiefe Church next that of Saint Marke the pall of the great Altar and the brasen Images two brasen Images of the Organs the seats of the wal-nut tree wonderfully ingrauen another Altar built by Vincent Morosini the Altar of Saint Stephen the first Martyr the Altar of the blessed Virgin and her Image the Altar of Saint Lutia with her Image and the wonderfull crucifix of another Altar In the Church of Saint Mary delle gratie the infinite gifts hung vp there vpon vowes In the Church of the Holy Ghost the Pall of the great Altar and the marble stones and pillars and the brasen candlestickes and a skreene of brasse guilded and the pictures of Saint Markes Altar the candlesticke of the great chappel curiously carued the rare Images and arched roofe of the Altar of the Cratch being all the worke of the famous Painter Titiano whose rare image also the Friars haue and in the publike refectory of the Friars the admirable pictures of the resurrection of Sampson and especially of Christ supping with his Apostles In the monastery of Saint Hellen giuing name to the Iland and founded by Alexander Boromeo and being one of the fairest in the City a crosse of inestimable value In the Church of Saint Andrew della Certosa the monument of Austine Barbadici who hartening the confederates to fight was chiefe cause of the victory against the Turkes by sea in the yeere 1571. and while he liued by faire and rough tearmes kept the league vnbroken which presently vpon his death was dissolued In the Church of Saint Nicholas del Liro the sepulcher of Duke Dominicke Contarini rich with porphery and ophyte stones and a well of fresh water lying very neere the sea and hauing so full a spring as it serueth all the shippes and gallies The almes-house of Saint Lazerus is built for lepers The old Lazereto is a pest-house where the Prior and Physitians haue yeerely fee to attend the sicke Not farre from that is the new Lazareto whither they are sent who are suspected to haue the plague but as soone as they begin to be sicke they are sent thence to the old Lazareto and hither all suspected men are sent to try their health which if they keepe for forty daies then they are set free These things are in this sextary most remarkeable The sixth sextary and the third and last beyond the channell is of the forme of the Iland called Il sestiero di dorso duro In the Church of the Saints Geruaso and Protese the grauen Images and pictures in the chappell of the holy sacrament In the cloyster of Saint Agnes the Prioresse bringeth vp six Virgins which being of ripe yeeres are either married or made Nunnes and sixe more of good families sent thither in their place In the Church of Saint Gregory there is a second monument erected to Anthony Bragadini traiterously slaine by the Turkes at the taking of Cyprus The Iland Giudecca belongs to this sextary the chiefe Church whereof is Saint Eufemia it hauing nine other Churches The Church of the Iesuites is called Saint Mary of Humblenes and it hath pictured with great art the pals of the passion of Christ of the Apostles Peter and Paul of Christ circumcised and of Saint Francis and the great Altar is one of the fairest in the City In the Church Carmini a singular paire of Organs the Images of the blessed virgins foure Euangelists and Christ crucified and vpon the altar of Christ crucified two stones shining like christall which are esteemed for iewels In the Church of Saint Mary of Charity the rich chappell of San Saluadore In the most faire Church of the Capuchine Friars seated in the Iland Giudecca the images of brasse and the faire screene of the great Altar In the most faire Church of Saint Mary the greater being a Nunnery the rare pictures of the greater chappell In the Church of the holy crosse Della Giudecca the monument of the Cardinall Francis Morosini sent Ambassador to the Turke and Nuncio to Pope Sixtus the fifth in the French Court and here the rest of his Family vse to be buried The Monastery of the conuerted is for whores repenting Another is built for Orphan Virgins the Church whereof hath rich screenes of marble with brasse images and in the same liue some two hundred and fifty Virgins of almes and by the worke of their hands which comming to ripe yeeres are either married or made Nunnes These things are in this sextary most remarkeable The Venetians haue six fraternities or great schooles such as be also at Rome and the Gentlemen and Citizens all giue their names to one of them as in England at London the Citizens haue companies into which the King Queene and Nobles many times vouchsafe to be admitted And in these schooles as it were in Vniuersities they vse to haue exercises of religion The first of them is called Saint Mary of Charity after the rule whereof the rest are framed and the great Guardian thereof is chosen yeerly and weares a skarlet gowne with large sleeues which they call Ducall sleeues and he hath the title of Magnifito by priuiledge These schooles giue dowries yeerely to 1500. Virgins and distribute among the poore much money meale and clothes for besides many gifts by last testaments daily giuen to those vses each of the schooles hath some fiue or sixe thousand duckets in yeerely reuenew and they are gouerned like common wealthes In the said schoole the Images of the Apostles and the pictures especially one of the blessed Virgin and another of the foure Doctors of the Church are very faire In the schoole of Saint Iohn the Euangelist the passion of Christ is wonderfully figured and Phillip the second King of Spaine and his sonne Ferdinand and Don Iohn of Austria and other Princes haue beene of this fraternity The third is of mercy The fourth of Saint Marke The fifth of Saint Rocco passing the rest in ceremonies pompe and number of brethren The sixth is of Saint Theodore and each of these hath his Church and Pallace and precious monuments and these are subiect to the counsell of ten for there be many lesse schooles each art hauing his schoole and these are subiect to the old Iustice and out of them when need is souldiers are pressed It remaines to adde something of the magnificall building of this City And in the first place the market place of Saint Marke is paued with bricke and it consists of foure market
space arme one hundred gallies against Emanuel Emperour of the East and no doubt their strength hath euery day growne greater to this time In the said compasse of the Armory lies a great boat called Il Bucentoro because it carries about the number of two hundred which boat hath vpon it a kinde of chamber which vseth to be richly hung and couered ouer when in the same the Duke and Senators be carried by water at some times of solemnity especially at the feast of the Ascention when of an old custome they goe forth to espouse the sea by the ceremony of flinging a ring into the same and to challenge the command thereof giuen them by Pope Alexander the third The Iewes haue a place to dwell in seuerally called Il Ghetto where each family hath a little house and all haue one court-yard common so as they liue as it were in a Colledge or Almes-house and may not come forth after the gates are locked at night and in the day they are bound to weare a yellow cap. Though the City bee seated vpon little and narrow Ilands in the middest of marshes and tides of the sea yet hath it gardens in great number and abounding with rare herbes plants and fruits and water conduits which with thecarued Images and pictures out of the Gentlemens curtesie may bee seene by any curious stranger The publike Libraries of speciall note are these Di S Giouanni Paolo di San ' Francesco di San ' Stefano di San ' Georgio Maggiore and di Sant ' Antonio Also priuate Libraries may be found out by those that be curious and will bee after the same manner easily shewed them and are indeede most worthy to bee sought out for the rarenesse of many instruments pictures carued Images Antiquities and like rare things For the Venetians being most sparing in diet and apparell doe exercise their magnisicence in these and the like delights and these precious Monuments they will with great curtesie shew to any strangers or to any louing antiquities which my self-found by experience more-specially at the hands of Sigr. Nicolao vendramini a Gentleman dwelling in the Iland Giue decca who most curteously shewed mee and my friends though being altogether vnknowne to him some rare clockes admirable carued Images and a paire of Organs hauing strange varieties of sounds The Pallaces of Gentlemen were called houses but are and worthily deserue to be called Pallaces some hundred of them being fit to receiue Princes For howsoeuer this Common-wealth at the first founding was tied by many lawes to mediocrity and the equality among the Citizens yet pride hath by degrees seised vpon the same The said Pallaces haue one doore towards the Land and another towards the water and most of them haue gardens The foundations are laid of Oake in the waters and the stone of Istria is much esteemed The flooers of the vpper roomes are not boorded but plastred with lime tempred with tiles beaten to dust The windowes are for the most part very large the greater roomes lying almost altogether open to receiue aire but the lodging chambers haue glasse windowes whereof the Venetians brag glasse being rare in Italy where the windowes are for the most part couered with linnen or paper And howsoeuer glasse be common with vs on this side the Alpes yet it is certaine that the glasse makers of Venice dwelling in the Iland Murano haue a more noble matter thereof make much better glasse then we can To conclude as I said the Venctians are most sparing in diet and apparel so not onely in the building of their houses but in the furniture thereof the general sort passeth their degree and many of the Gentlemen vse Princely magnificence These are accounted the chiefe Pallaces That belonging to the Procurators office neere the Church of Saint Anthony The old Pallace which belonged to the Templary Knights That of the family Gritti neere the bridge Della Madonna That of Alexander Gritti neere the market place of Saint Iohn Bragora That of Dandoli neere the bridge Della Paglia The Pallace neere Saint Francis Church which the Senate bought and vse to assigne it to the dwelling of the Popes Nuncio That of the Dutchesse of Florence built vpon the channell of the Dukes Pallace That of the Vetturi neere the market place of Saint Mary That of the Patriarke Grimani neere the Malipieri That of the family Georgij neere the same That of Francis Priuli That of Lodwick Georgij That of the Capelli That of Peter Giustniani That of those of Pesaro neere the Church of St. Benedict That of the Loredani neere Saint Stephens Church That of Zeni That of Contarini That of Siluester Valierij neere the Church of Saint Iob. That of the Cornari neere Saint Pauls Church That of Iames Foscarini neere the Church Carmeni That of the Michaeli neere Saint Lewis Church That of Lewis Theophili neere the Church Della Misericordia The chiefe Pallaces vpon the channell are these That of the Loredani That of the Grimani neere Saint Lucia That of Delphini That of the Cornari neere Saint Maurice Church and that of the Foscarini an old building but hauing the best prospect of all the rest In which the Venetians entertained the French King Henry the third To conclude there be two rich Pallaces in the Iland Giudecca one of the Dandoli the other of the Vendramini In this famous City are twenty thousand families and three thousand of the Gentlemen and no age hath beene so barren which hath not yeelded worthy men for Martiall and ciuill gouernment and learning Of this City haue beene three Popes Gregory the twelfth Eugenius the fourth and Paul the second and many Cardinalls of which these are the chiefe Peter Morosini Marke I andi Anthony Corari Iohn Amideus and in our age Iohn Baptist Zeni and Dominick Grimani Also Peter Bembus was a Venetian whom Pope Paul the third made Cardinall Heere was borne Pantalean Iustinianus Patriarke of Consiantinople when the French ruled there And Venice hath yeelded many most learned men Andrew Dandoli Duke Francis Barbarigi Andrew Morosini who wrote the History of his time in Heroique Verse And many famous Ciuill Lawyers Lodwicke Foscarini and Ierom Donati And many rare engrauers and painters Titiano Tenterotto and Belino And many Commanders in the warre Iohn Bolari Marino Gradinici Dominick Morosini the first prouisors of Military affaires Andrew Morosini and Simion Dandoli and many more famous in all kindes of vertue to the chiefe whereof I haue said that the Senate erected many Statuaes and Monuments Giue me leaue to adde this of the family Morosini namely that among the most famous men whose pictures were in the chamber of publike meeting before it was burnt there were the pictures of Barbaro and Marco and Autonia Morosini And that the same family hath giuen three Dukes Dominico Marino and Michaele and three Patriarkes and twelue Procurators of Saint Marke which number few families haue attained onely that of the
Rimini but our desire to see the old famous City of Rauenna made vs goe out of the way twenty miles to the said City through a dirty way and fruitfull fields of corne and each of vs paid seuen poli for his horse Rauenna is a most ancient City whose wals the Emperour Tiberius either built or repaired Here of old was the harbour for the nauie of Rome Here the Emperour of the East after the Westerne Empire was extinguished made the seat of his Exarch After by the conspiring of the Popes and the French Kings Pipin and Charles the Great all the Cities of this Exarchate fell to the Popes share Yet others write that the French King onely added Tuseany to the Patrimony of Saint Peter and it is most certaine that these Cities for long time did not acknowledge the Pope for their Lord till at last the Popes in like sort conspiring with the French Kings Lewis the twelfth and Charles the eight had their aide to subdue these Cities and then Pope Iulius the second by terrour of his excommunications extorted Rauenna and other Cities from the Venetians and casting out the Lords of other Cities the Popes from that time being very skilfull to fish in troubled waters haue gotten possession of all the territories from the confines of the State of Venice to Ferraria Bologna and along the Coast of the Adriaticke sea to Ancona It is said that Rauenna stands not now in his old place for at this time it is some two miles distant from the Sea but the soyle thereof is most fruitfull in corne and vnfit to yeeld wine and it is rich in pastures The houses are built of bricke and flint stone aud are so old as they seeme ready to fall This City hauing been often taken by enemies hath lost all the ornaments which it had from so many Exarches and Kings of Lombardy and from the Bishops thereof who were so powerfull as they stroue long time for primacy with the Bishops of Rome On the North-side of the City lies the sea but distant from the same and without the wals is a wood of Pine-trees and not farre thence lie the ruines of a very old and most faire Church Saint Mary the Round whose roofe was admirable being of one stone and in the same Church was the rich sepulcher of the Lombard King Theodoricus which the souldiers pulled downe with the Church to get the mettals thereof On the East-side the sea lies some two Italian miles distant where is the Hauen for ships so much spoken of in the Roman Histories where the nauy of Rome did winter yet is it now neither conuenient nor secure for ships neither indeed can any but very small boates come vp to the Towne On the South-side without the golden gate built by the Emperour Claudius lie the ruines of a stately Pallace built by the same King Theodoricus and likewise of the City Caesaria In a Chappell of the Cathedrall Church is a most rich Font and they report that many Kingly monuments were of old in this Church In the market place lies a vessell of Porphry a Kingly monument which the Citizens in the yeere 1564. brought from the foresaid sepulcher of King Theodoricus in the ruined Church of Saint Mary neere the gate on the North-side In the monastery of Saint Francis is the sepulcher of the Poet Dante 's with these verses in Latin Exigua tumuli Dante 's hic sorte iacebas Squallenti nullis cognite penè situ At nune marmoreo subnix us conder is Area Omnibus cultu splendidiore nites Nimiram Bembus Musis incensus Hetruscis Hoc tibi quem inpri nis hae coluere dedit In a poore Tombe Dante 's thou didst lie here The place obscure made thee almost vnknowne But now a marble chest thy bones doth beare And thou appearest fresh as flower new blowne Bembus with Tuseane Muses rauished Gaue this to thee whom they most cherished In the yeere 1483. the sixth of the Kalends of Iune Bernar Bembus the Praetor laid this at his owne charge The strength merit and crowne of the Friars minorite couents S. V. F. and these verses were added in Latin Iura Monarchtae superos Phlegetonta lacusque Lustrando cecini voluerunt fata quousque Sed quia pars cessit melioribus hospita castris Actoremque suum petijt faelicior Astris Hic claudor Dante 's patrus extorris ab oris Quem genuit parui Fiorentia Mater Amoris The Monarchies Gods Lakes and Phlegeton I searcht and sung while my Fates did permit But since my better part to heauen is gone And with his Maker mongst the starres doth sit I Dante 's a poore banishd man lie here Whom Florence Mother of sweet Loue did beare In the Church of Saint Vitalis the pauement is of marble and the wals all couered with precious stones of many kinds but vnpolished as they were taken out of the mines shew great antiquity and magnificence and doe not a little delight the beholder Also there be certaine Images grauen in some stones I know not whether by nature or strange art which are to be admired Among which I remember one stone had the picture of a Turke in all the apparell they weare another the Image of a Monke in his habit another of a Priest with his bald head and two other the one most like the foot the other the leg of a man There is an Altar of Alablaster and the Church is of a round forme whose roofe is painted A la Mosaica like engrauing of which kind of painting rare and much esteemed in Italy I haue spoken before in the description of Venice In this Church is a fountaine of water which by vertue giuen it from this Saint as they say being thrice drunke off giues remedy to the head-ach Another Church of Saint Geruasiue is so ioined to this of Saint Vitalis as it seemed to mee but a Chappell thereof and in this Church also is the Saint buried of whom it hath the name and there be also the sepulchers of Placidiae sister to the Emperour Honorius and of her sonnes and daughters and of her nurse with her husband Here wee paid each man three poli for his supper From Rauenna we rode thirtie fiue miles to the old Citie Rimini namely ten to Sauio fiue to Ceruia fiue to Cesnadigo and fifteene to Rimini through wild fenny fields and a great Wood of Pine-trees and by the sandie shoare of the sea betweene which and the Apenine Mountaines diuiding Italy by the length the Valley was so narrow as we continually did see the snowy toppes of those Mountaines towards the South and for the most part did see together with them the Adriatique sea towards the North. In the foresaid Castle Cesnadigo the Post-master would haue forced vs to take new post-horses if he that let our horses to vs had not pleased him by the paiment of some money for the post-horses are knowne by a list of furre they weare in their
bridles and if a man ride into a Towne vpon a Post-horse he must either goe away on foote or take another Post-horse there for no priuate man dare let him a horse which makes passengers loth to hier post-horses of returne though many times they may be had at good rate rather then he will returne emptie with them yet if a man will walke a mile or two he may easily hier a horse in other Townes which are frequent in Italy And let no man maruel that these Princes fauour the Post-masters and Inkeepers to the preiudice of strangers because in that respect they extort great rents from them By the way in the Village Bel ' Aria each of vs paid two bolinei for passage of a Riuer The Brooke Rubico now called Pissatello by this way to Rimini did runne from the West into the Adriatique sea and there of old was a Marble pillar with this inscription in Latin Here stay leaue thy Banner lay down thy Armes and leade not thy Army with their Colours beyond this Brooke Rubico therefore if any shall goe against the rule of this commaund let him be iudged enemie to the people of Rome c. And hereupon it was that Iulius Caesar returning out of France and first stopping here and then after he had seene some prodigious signes passing ouer this Brooke with his Army vttered words in Lattin to this effect Let vs goe whither the prodigics of the Gods and the sinnes of our enemies call vs. The Die is cast In the Market-place of Rimini is a monument of the same Caesar yet remaining where words in the Latin tongue are grauen in a stone to this effect The Consuls of Rimini did repaire this pulpit decaied with age in the moneths of Nouember and December in the yeere 1555. Vnder that is written Caius Caesar Dictator hauing passed Rubico here in the Market place of Rimini spake to his fellow souldiers beginning the ciuill warre In the same Market-place of Rimini is a pleasant Conduit of water The Citie hath no beautie and lyeth in length from the East to the West On the West-side is a bridge built by the Emperour Augustas which they hold to be very faire Towards the East is a Triumphall Arke built by the same Augustus with old inscriptions and a pinackle erected which shewes the Flaminian way to Rome and the Emilian way towards Parma I said that the Popes territory extendeth this way as high as Ancona and these inhabiters of Marca are accounted a wicked generation the greatest part of the cut-throtes and murtherers dispersed through Italy being borne in this Country Our Hoste vsed vs very ill demaunding of each of vs a poli for our bed and three polo for our supper and when we desired a reckoning demaunding for a little piece of an Ele one polo and a halfe and for three little Soles tenne bolinei besides that by the aforesaid priuiledge he forced vs being Post-master to take horses of him at what price he listed The next morning we rode fifteene miles to the Castle la Catholica where is a bridge diuiding the territories of the Pope and the Duke of Vrbine then we rode to Pesaro ten miles and each man paied for his horsefoure poli and all our way was through fruitful hills and little mountaines This Citie hath a faire round Market-place and a plesant Fountaine therein distilling water at eight pipes The aire is thought vnwholesome for which cause and the great plentie of fruit nothing is more frequent here then Funerals in the Moneth of August and the Inhabitants seldome liue to be 50 yeeres old each of vs paid a Polo for our dinner calling for what meate we liked and agreeing first for the price From hence to Ancona ate fortie fiue miles and wee hired three Horses for twentie fiue Poli with condition that our guide vulgarly called Veturale or Veturino should pay for his horse-meate and bring them backe againe After dinner we rode fiue miles to the little City Fano compassed with high walles of Flint and lying vpon a hill-side towards the sea and subiect to the Pope where we did see a triumphall arck of marble curiously engrauen Then we rode fifteene miles more to Senogalita a strong Citie and subiect to the Duke of Vrbin By the way we passed the Bridge Di Metro hauing foure-score Arches and the Bridge Di Marctta hauing fiftie Arches both built of wood and very low as seruing to passe ouer little Brookes which notwithstanding by reason of the Mountaines being neere doe often ouer-flow All this dayes iourney was by the Sea-shore on our left hand towards the North and fruitfull hills of corne towards the South ouer which hung the Apenine Mountaines whence many times the waters discend violently by reason of the narrow valley betweene the fea and the said Mountaines It is prouerbially said of the Magistrate of Senogallia il Podesta commanda fallo stesso that is The Gouernour commaunds and doth it himselfe whereby it seemes he is little esteemed The Citie is of a small circuit but very strong and the houses are built of bricke with a roofe something flat after the Italian fashion The Inne is without the gate and so the more comodious for strangers who may come late and departe earely which they could not do if their lodging were within the walls It is true that he who buyes hath need to sell for the Duke extorting great rent from the Inkeeper he in like sort oppresseth the passengers for a short supper at a common table each man payed foure Poli or Poali a coine so called of Pope Paul The next morning we rode fifteene miles to Fimesino and tenne to Ancona hauing the sea on our left hand towards the North and fruitfull mountaines on our right hand towards the South Fimesino is a Fort and belongs to the Pope but the Inne without the gate belongs to the Duke of Vrbine And againe when you haue passed the Bridge all the Territorie to Ancona is subiect to the Pope The Citie of Ancona is compassed with three Mountaines and hath the forme of a halfe Moone On the North side is a Mountaine vpon which the Gouernour dwelles and vpon the East side is another Mountaine and vpon the side of these two Mountaines the Citie is built to the valley and sea-side towards the North. On the South-side is the third Mountaine vpon which is the Castle called Capoaè Monte built in the same place where the Temple of Venus stoode and vpon this side the Citie is narrow there being no houses built vpon the Mountaine but onely in the valey vpon the sea The Pope hath souldiers in this Castle and thereby keepes the Citie in subiection for the Citizens long defended their liberty and how soeuer they were subiect to the Pope yet secretly chose their Magistrates euery yeere to the yeere 1532 at which time Pope Clement the seuenth built this Castle against the Turkish Pirates but
the City though it were taken by the enemy A little beneath is the monastery of the Carthusians and vpon pretence to enlarge that monastery the Emperour Charles the fifth built this most strong Castle to bridle the wonted petulancy and inconstancy of the Citizens and from thence there is a most sweet prospect as well into the City as to the bayes of the sea Towards the South-side is the Hauen and beyond the f bay of Naples lies firme land for the Sea comming in from the West makes this bay Vpon this side is a fortification for the safety of the hauen which is called g Il Molle it driues off the waues of the sea and makes the Hauen like an halfe Moone and therein at this time were twenty gallies and ten small ships The Armory lies vpon the Sea from whence the gallies and ships and land forces are armed and among other things there is kept the rich Armour yet without any ornament of gold of the French King Francis the first which he did weare when he was taken prisoner at Pauia Thereby lies a large market place in which is a faire fountaine with many Images casting out water Also there is a Tower where they set light by night to guide sea men into the Hauen In the said market place is a stone vpon which many play away their liberty at dice the Kings officers lending them money which when they haue lost and cannot repay they are drawne into the gallies for the Spaniards haue slaues of both sexes On the outside of the said Molle or fortification vpon the hauen towards the west neere to the shore lies the most strong fort called l Castello nuouo seated in a plaine and built by Charles the first of Arion and so fortified by Alphonso the first King of Aragon as it is numbred among the chiefe forts of Europe The inward gate is most faire all of marble and it hath a little fouresquare hall in which the Parliaments are yeerely held and the Viceroyes weekely sit in iudgement Neere this hall is a faire tower in which the Kingly ornaments are laid vp namely a scepter of gold with great diamonds vpon the top the sword with the haft and scabbard of gold adorned with precious stones the Kings Crowne shining with precious stones a golden crosse an huge pot of gold set with precious stones great Vnlcornes hornes and the chiefe kinds of precious stones Further towards the West yet so neere as the garden of the Pallace lies vpon the ditch of this Castle is the k Viceroyes Palace which hath a large and most sweet garden and delicate walk paued with diuers coloured and engrauen marbles And in this garden are two banquetting houses whereof one is very stately built and hath a sweet fountaine close to the table continually powring out water Also there is a delicate cage of birds wrought about with thick wyer and it is as big as an ordinary stil-house delicately shadowed round about wherein are many kinds of singing birds as well of Italy as forraigne Countries A little further within the water is the h Castle of the egge built vpon a rock by the Normans which Rocke is of an ouall forme and gaue the name to the Castle vulgarly called Castel ' del ' vuono which at this day is ruinous and some say it was the Pallace of Lucullus but it is certaine that the Normans built it as they did also another Castle which is old and called the Capuan Castle of the adioining Capuan-gate Naples was of old called Parthenope of one of the Syrens there buried whom they write to haue cast her selfe into the sea for griefe that by no flattery shee could detaine Vlisses with her The Citizens of old Cuma built Naples and left it should grow great to the preiudice of Cuma they pulled it down againe till at last oppressed with a great glague vpon the warning of an oracle they built it againe and changing the old name Parthenope called it Naples which in Greeke signifies a new City It is seated at the foot of hils and mountaines in length from the North-east to the South-west or rather seemeth to be triangular whereof two corners lie vpon the sea and that towards the West is more narrow then the other and the third blunt corner lies towards the mountaines Vpon the East-side there be pleasant suburbs and vpon the West-side more large suburbs but vpon the North-side without the wals there be onely some few eeeee scattered houses built vpon the sides of hils The houses of the City are foure roofes high but the tops lie almost plaine so as they walke vpon them in the coole time of the night or at left in generall the tops are not much erected like other parts of Italy and the building is of free stone and sheweth antiquity but the windowes are all couered with paper or linnen cloth for glasse windowes are most rare in Italy and as it were proper to Venice It hath three faire broad and long streetes namely La Toletano la Capuana and la vicaria the rest are very narrow There be eight gates towards land and as many towards sea among which the Capuan gate since the Emperour Charles the fifth entered thereat is decked with monuments and statuaes There be in this City very many Pallaces of Gentlemen Barons and Princes whereupon the City is vulgarly called Napoli Gentile Among these two Pallaces are most stately one of the Duke of Greuina which the King of Spaine forbad to be finished the other of the Prince of Salerno There be foure publike houses called Seggij in which the Princes and Gentlemen haue yeerely meetings and there also is the daily meeting of the Merchants Almost euery house hath his fountaine of most wholsome waters Neere the market place are many Innes but poore and base for howsoeuer the City aboundeth with houses where they giue lodging and meat yet it deserues no praise for faire Innes of good entertainement On all sides the eye is as it were bewitched with the sight of delicate gardens aswell within the City as neere the same The gardens without the wals are so rarely delightfull as I should thinke the Hesperides were not to be compared with them and they are adorned with statuaes laberinthes fountaines vines myrtle palme cetron lemon orange and cedar trees with lawrels mulberies roses rosemary and all kinds of fruits and flowers so as they seeme an earthly Paradice The fields are no lesse fruitfull bringing forth abundantly all things for the vse of man The Kings stables without the wals are worth the seeing for the horses of this Kingdome are much esteemed and if any man buy a horse to carry out of the Kingdome he payes the tenth part of the price to the King The City being seated vpon the sides of hils and by lying open to the South being subiect to great heates and most parts of the streetes being narrow so as in walking the heat
whereof no man would drinke because they thought it came from hell deriued by the heat of Phlegiton whereupon an Oracle was built here as in a place consecrated to Pluto and the Cymerians liuing here in a Caue entered this place when they had sacrificed to the Gods for the soules of the dead Leander also saith that they vsed to sacrifice men in this place and nameth Elpenor sacrificed by Vlisses for he vnderstands Homer to meane this place and also Misenus sacrificed by AEneas though Virgil write that he died here Some will haue this Lake to be the famous Fen of Acheron of which Virgil writes Tenebrosa palus Acheronte refuso The darke Fen of Acheron powred out This also Sernius affirmes and shewes that this Lake comes from the infernal Riuer Acheron so called as without ioy But Leander shewes that Acheron faigned by the Poets to be a riuer of hell is a riuer of Calabria and that there is another riuer of that name in Greece They say that the water of this Lake Auernus seemes blacke because it hath no bottome but Leander affirmes that some by a long rope found the bottome to be three hundred and sixty fathome deepe The hils that compasse Auernus are very steepe with a head long fall whereupon Virgil saith Facilis discensus Auerni The discent of Auernus is easie Vnder the hill towards the West side is a Caue which they call the caue of Sybilla of Cuma and among many roomes there is one in which shee is said to haue attended her deuotion but Leander thinkes this place to haue been a sweating Bath Of this caue Virgil thus writes Horren daeque procul Secreta Sybillae Antrum immane petit inferius Extisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in Antrum c. Vnde runnt totidem voces responsa Sibillae Of dreadfull Sibill the farre distant rites To the vast caue he goes And after An huge den cut out in the Euboyan rockes vast side c. Whence rush so many voyces Sybill answering From these hilles to the neighbour Citie Baie they say the earth is all hollow with caues vnder it and that the Cimerians of old dwelled vnder an hill towards the sea-shore And Leander thinkes that caue to haue belonged to them and surely whether it belonged to them or any old Prophets or to the Prophetesse Sibilla or whose worke soeuer it was the wonderfull Art and huge expence therein do plainely appeare These Cimerians of old did leade strangers vnder the earth to the Oracle and were diggers in mines and reputed to haue the spirit of diuination whereupon the King gaue them pensions for reuealing secrets vnto him These men neuer saw the Sunne but came abroad onely in the night whence is the prouerb of Cimerian darkenesse and the fiction of the Poets that they did leade strangers to the Court of Pluto They write that these hauing deceiued the King by false diuination were by him destroyed Vpon the Hilles of Auernus they shew the ruined Temple of Mercurie and another Temple of Apollo little broken downe Nero began a ditch to be made from the Lake Auernus to Ostia to auoide the trouble of going by sea From the said Lake there was a sluce of old into the Lake Lucrinus by which when there was any floud of the sea the water passed out of Lucrinus into Auernus Lake but this is now stopped since the foresaid Earthquake of Tripergula The Lake Lucrinus is so called in Latin of the gaine made by fishes sold. Suetonius writes that Iulius Caesar let in the Sea to this Lake as also into the other For the Senate of Rome making great gaine of the fish sold here till the Sea did once breake in with such force as the fish went out of these Lakes at the ebbing of the Sea did thereupon commaund Caesar to giue remedie thereunto which he did raising bankes against the Sea at which time he made a passage for the fish out of one Lake into another Wee gaue a Clowne three poli for leading vs through the Caue of Sybilla Vpon the Sea shore lies the bath commonly called of Cicero which the Phisitians call the bath of Tritoli of a Latin word for rubbing the letter F being changed into T and this Bath lieth neere the ruines of the Village of Cicero called his Academy I know not whether this Village or rather Pallace had the name of Academy or no for I finde in my notes a Village of Cicero in the way from Naples to Pozzoli and likewise the mention of this bath of Cicero and his Academy neere the Lake of Auernus And Leander mentions a village of his in both places but Villamont speakes of a Village neere Pozzoli and of a Pallace in this place called Accademy and these differ not much from my notes but others confound the Village and the Bath putting both together so as writing of these intricate caues vnder the earth my selfe am fallen into a Laberinth wherein I had much rather die then goe backe to Naples for searching the truth We entered this Bath Tritoli and gaue a Clowne one Poalo for conducting vs. The passage to enter was straite and extendeth farre vnder the Mountaine and there is a marke set which they say no man euer passed We did sweate extreamely yet I desired to come to that marke till at last feeling my spirits begin to faile me I was glad to returne and to creepe vpon the earth where the aire was more cold then aboue They say that this bath is very healthfull and much frequented in the spring time and that Nero had of old a Pallace built ouer it Neere this lie the ruines of Baulos or Boaulia named of the oxen stolen by Gerion for here was the Temple of Hercules and Seruius expounding Virgil saith that Eneas did here speake with Hercules Leander writes that Hortensius did here make cesternes wherein hee kept his so much prised Lampreyes Tacitus and Suetonius in the life of Nero make mention of this place For Agripina mother of Nero passing by water from the Village of Piso to this Baulos was of purpose and by the commaund of Nero put into a rotten boate that she might be drowned which boate splitting in the middest of the passage Agripina perceiued the intent and silently the neight being darke slipped into another boate and so for that time escaped but her waiting-maide being in great danger and crying out that shee was Mother to Nero found death by that name by which she hoped to saue her life being presently struck into the water by one of the conspiratours At last when wicked Nero resolued to kill his Mother he inuited her to a feast entertaining her louingly on the Sea shore and when she returned out of shew of duty attending her to this Baulos lying betweene the Misene Promontory and the Lake of Raie but at the same time he commaunded that she should be killed and here vnder the earth we did see her sepulcher in a
forme not vnlike to an earthen vessell broad in the bottom and narrow at the mouth which narrow part lies towards the West where comming from Florence you enter by the Gate Camolea Neere the same is a Fort wherein the great Duke keepes souldiers and there without the gate is the Church of Saint Marie whether was great concourse of people for deuotion From hence to the East gate leading towards Rome the streetes lie euen and plaine though the Citie be seated vpon a mount and in this part toward the East the City is broadest and from this gate a man may see the Castle Redicofini forty miles distant vpon the confines of the States of the Pope and the great Duke Betweene the said gates as it were in the center of the City lies a most faire Marketplace in the forme of an Oyster and lying hollow as the shell thereof is And there is a stately Pallace of the Senate built when the Citie was free in the front whereof is a statua of mixt mettall vulgarly called di bronzo which seemes to bee apparelled hauing on the head a broad hat and this statua strikes the houre of the clock On the South-East side within the walles lies a large field which was then sowed with corne yet the Citie hath few or no Gardens within the wall Not farre from the walles on the South-side lies the Cathedrall Church vulgarly called Il Domo and howsoeuer it be little it seemed to me the fairest Church in Italy It hath but one dore to which you ascend by long and broad Marble staires All the pauement is most beautifull of ingrauen Marble adorned with Images of the fiue Sybills and there be in this Church some twentie Images of mixt mettall besides many other of Marble The seates of the Chauncell are of Walnut-tree curiously carued and all the roofe of the Church is painted of skie colour and all set with starres Vpon the inside and in the vpper part of the Church are the Images of the Popes wrought in stone to the shoulders set round about where betweene Gregorie the fourth and Adrian the second I wondred to see the head of Pope Ioane with the inscription naming her especially in a Citie so neere Rome Hauing noted this at Sienna and after my comming into England reading the same I searched Histories to see how they agreed in this matter which the Papists cannot heare with patience And I found in approued Authors that after the said Gregory the fourth succeeded Sergius the second confirmed by the Emperour Lotharius in the yeere 844 then Leo the fourth dying in the yeere 854 then Pope Ioane setting two yeeres and few moneths and dying in the yeere 856 then Benedict the third then Nicholas the Great in the yeere 858 then the foresaid Adrian the second in the yeere 867. And if any man aske why the heads of Sergins the second Leo the fourth Benedict the third and Nicholas the great being omitted the head of Pope Ioane should stand betweene the heads of Gregorie the fourth and Adrian the second I leauing the curious search thereof to them that list dispute it as a matter nothing to my purpose can suddenly giue no other reason thereof then that I coniecture the said heads were set on the other side of the Church for at that time I was content to note the same without casting this doubt and so not searching to satisfie my selfe therein But I dare boldly affirme that my selfe and the two Dutch-gentlemen my consorts did see this monument in this Church neere the doore on the right hand as we came in And since that time I haue conferred with diuers worthy English Gentlemen who affirmed that they did see the same In this Church are two sepulchers one of Pope Alexander the third the other of Pope Pius the second And in a Chappell of this Church is a most faire Font. From this Church discending by slope and steepe streetes towards the South-west wall you shall come to a most pleasant Fountaine called Fonte Branda without the South-gate of which the Citizens prouerbially say that if a stranger drinke thereof he shall so loue Sienna as he shall very vnwillingly and scarce at all depart from the City But the Florentincs in scorne of the Siennesi haue a prouerbe Chi de fonte Branda beue diuenta pazzo He that drinkes of the fountaine Branda becomes a foole It casts out water by nine mouthes of stone and there be three places where Laundresses wash and neere the same is a pleasant groue On the same South side towards the Sea some few miles from the Towne lies a fenny plaine called La Maremma most fruitfull in corne but infamous for ill aire so as the place being forsaken by all Italians is tilled by the Grisons comming downe from the Alpes to this place in winter time when the Alphes are all couered with snow and in the spring time returning backe into their owne Countrey Sienna it selfe is much subiect to raine so as a Spaniard comming often thither in rainy weather did write or is said to haue written to his friend for a wonder that it alwaies rained at Sienna On the North-east side of the City two large fields within the wals are sowed with corne All the pauement of the streets is of bricke which lasteth the longer because there be neither carts nor coaches but all burthens are carried vpon the backes of Asses There is a stately Pallace which Pope Pius the second built who was a Citizen of Sienna of the Family of Picciolomini and there in the Mount Oliuet the passion of Christ is curiously grauen It is vulgarly and truely said that Sienna abounds with Fountaines Towers and faire Weomen There is no better place to liue in through all Italy then the state of Florence and more specially the most sweet City of Sienna The Citizens whereof are most curteous and they haue many publike meetings of the young weomen Virgines to dance where the doore is open for any Citizen or stranger Besides Sienna is commended for the best language and in the same and in all the state of Florence men liue safe from robberies and from the murthers which are frequent in Lombardy Adde that they haue delicate diet at Florence at a reasonable rate and in the rest of the territory at a very cheape rate Our Hostesse at Sienna gaue vs cleane linnen often changed both at bed and boord a large chamber a good bed a linnen canopy oft changed and did prouide our meat very cleanly for which each man paid no morethen ten giulij by the moneth We bought our owne meat and I remember that the price of oyle was twenty fiue lires the barrell that I paid for as much wood as an Asse would beare foure baelli They haue butter but not so good as in the valley of Arno and they sell it twenty two sols the ounce The Magistrate sets a price vpon euery thing to be sold in the
ridiculous and that they were in great part vndertaken by bankerouts and men ofbase condition I might easily iudge that in short time they would become disgracefull whereupon I changed my mind For I remembred the Italian Prouerbe La bellezza di putana la forza del'fachino c. nulla vagliano that is the beauty of a Harlot the strength of the Porter and to omit many like Musicke it selfe and all vertues become lesse prized in them who set them out to sale Also I remembred the pleasant fable that Iupiter sent raine vpon a Village wherewith whosoeuer was wet became a foole which was the lot of all the Inhaitants excepting one man who by chance for dispatching of businesse kept within doores that day and that when he came abroad in the euening all the rest mocked him as if they had beene wise and he onely foolish so as he was forced to pray vnto Iupiter for another like shower wherein he wetted himselfe also chusing rather to haue the loue of his foolish neighbours being a foole then to be dispised of them because he was onely wise And no doubt in many things wee must follow the opinion of the common people with which it is better regarding onely men to be foolish then alone to be wise I say that I did for the aforesaid causes change my mind and because I could not make that vndone which was done at least I resolued to desist from that course Onely I gaue out one hundred pound to receiue three hundred at my returne among my brethren and some few kinsmen and dearest friends of whom I would not shame to confesse that I receiued so much of gift And lest by spending vpon the stocke my patrimony should be wasted I moreouer gaue out to fiue friends one hundred pound with condition that they should haue it if I died orafter three yeeres should repay it with one hundred and fifty pound gaine if I returned which I hold a disaduantageous aduenture to the giuer of the money Neither did I exact this money of any man by sute of Law after my returne which they willingly and presently paid me onely some few excepted who retaining the very money I gaue them deale not therein so gentleman-like with me as I did with them And by the great expences of my iourny much increased by the ill accidents of my brothers death and my owne sickenesse the three hundred fifty pounds I was to receiue of gain after my return the one hundred pounds which my brother and I carried in our purses would not satisfie the fiue hundred pound we had spent though my brother died within the compasse of the first yeere but I was forced to pay the rest out of my owne patrimony Gentle Reader I will no longer trouble thee with these trifles onely in the behalfe of them who for a reasonable gaine and vpon long iournies and not vpon ridiculous aduentures haue put out their mony in this sort Giue leaue to me howsoeuer I desisted from that course to adde this All manners of attire came first into the City and Countrey from the Court which being once receiued by the common people and by very Stage-players themselues the Courtiers iustly cast off and take new fashions though somewhat too curiously and whosoeuer weares the old men looke vpon him as vpon a picture in Arras hangings For it is prouerbially said that we may eate according to our owne appetite but in our apparell must follow the fashion of the multitude with whom we liue But in the meane time it is not reproch to any who of old did were those garments when they were in fashion In like sort many daunces and measures are vsed in Court but when they come to be vulgar and to be vsed vpon very stages Courtiers and Gentlemen think them vncomely to be vsed yet is it no reproch to any man who formerly had skill therein To conclude that I may not trouble you with like examples which are infinite I say that this manner of giuing out mony vppon these aduentures was first vsed in Court and among the very Noble men and when any of them shewed thereby extraordinary strength the most censorious approued it but when any performed a long iourny with courage and discretion no man was found who did not more or lesse commend it according to the condition of the iourney performed Now in this age if bankerouts Stage-players and men of base condition haue drawne this custome into contempt I grant that Courtiers and Gentlemen haue reason to forbeare it yet know not why they should be blamed who haue thus put out their mony in another age when this custome was approued A man may iustly say it is great iniustice that our actions should be measured by opinion and not by reason but when a man leaues any custome that hath beene approued left hee should oppose himselfe to the common people a monster of many heads the most enuious hath nothing whereat they may iustly carpe And if any measure may be imposed to detracters surely they must spare them who vndertake long voyages ful of great dangers who doe not put out their money in Tauernes or at feasts to any man without distinction but dispose of their money with their friends vpon reasonable aduenture of gaine which in absence they cannot otherwise dispose to profit Finally who being not rich by patrimony take these iournies onely for experience and to be inabled to that expence doe condition this reasonable gaine I say the detracters must spare these and distinguish them from others who make cursorie iournies without any desire to better their vnderstanding thereby and more from those who in these courses rather make triall of their bodies strength then of their mindes abilitie And most of all from those who expose themselues to the scorne of men by base and ridiculous aduentures or that little differ from selfe-murtherers in vndertaking desperate actions for gaine In the same yere 1595 wherein some few months past I returned into England from my former iourney I now set forth againe towards Ierusalem and vpon the twentie nine of Nouember after the old stile I and my brother consort of my iourney went by water twentie miles which are seuenteene miles by land from London to Grauesend in a boat with two Oares for which we payed two shillings sixe Pence At last the winde seruing vs vpon the seuenth of December in the euening we set saile at an ebbing water and vpon the eighth of December in the afternoon hauing passed the Riuer Thames wee cast anchor vpon the shoare of England right before the Village Margets Then in the twilight of the euening wee put to Sea and the ninth of December entring the narrow Sea of Zealand vpon our call a boat came out of Vlishing to vs in which we went thither leauing our ship which went forward to Midleburg and each man paying a doller for his passage The eleuenth of December
outside of the earth Palestina was farre distant from the Equinoctiall line which diuideth the World into equall parts And if Palestina were iust vnder that line yet that all the countries hauing the same Meridian should be the middest of the World as well as Palestina They answered that Dauid saith in his Psalmes In the middest of the World I will worke their saluation To which I replied that the middest of the World was there taken for the face and in the sight of the World so as none should be able to denie it Whereupon they grew angry and said that the Scripture must be beleeued in spite of all Cosmographers and Philosophers It had been vaine to dispute further with them there being not one learned man among these Greekes at Ierusalem And to say truth if you except the Greeke Ilands vnder the Venetians they haue few or no learned men For my part I neuer found in all the vast Empire of Ottoman any learned Greeke but onely one called Milesius who was after made Patriarke of Constantinople And these Greekes as in this point so in all other follow the literall sense of the Scriptures For which cause they also beleeue the corporall presence of Christ in the Sacrament And whereas Saint Paul saith Let the Bishop be the husband of one wife c. they so interpret it as if the Priests wife die within few dayes after his mariage yet he may neuer marry againe The Sorians are so called of Syria in which Prouince they liue hauing their owne Patriarke neither could they euer bee brought to consent to the Roman faith for whatsoeuer the Romanes challenge due to the Seat of S. Peter that they say rather belongeth to them in respect Saint Peter was Bishop of Anttoch They agreed with the Greekes in many things they denie Purgatorie they fast foure Lents in the yeere they permit their Priests to marrie they vse the Greeke tongue in their Diuine seruice and otherwise speake their owne language which I take to be the Arabian tongue In Ierusalem Church they keepe the Sepulchers of Ioseph of 〈◊〉 and of Nicodemus and in the Citie they keepe the house of Saint Marke noted with the figure 37. The Costi are Egyptians dwelling about Numidia They retaine the heresie of Arrius and follow the Ceremonies of the Abissines This I write vpon the report of the Italian Friers who are to be blamed if it be not true These in the Church keepe the Chappell wherein Godfrey and his Regall Family lye buried and the Caue vnder Mount Caluerie where they say the scull of Adam lies and haue also their proper Altar vpon Mount Caluarie The Abissines inhabit the South parts of Africk and they are subiect to their King Preti-Giani They receiued the Christian faith of the Eunuch baptized by Phillip and themselues are baptized not onely with water but with the signe of the Crosse printed in their flesh with hot Iron gathering that fire is as necessary to Baptisme as water out of those words of S. Iohn Baptist I baptise you with water but he shall baptise you with the Spirit and fire Also they vse the Iewes and Mahometans circumcision like wary Notaries who fearing to faile in their assurance neuer think they haue vsed words enough yet doe they greatly hatë the Iewes and thinke their Altars defiled if they doe but looke vpon them They giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper to very children and they as all the rest excepting the Franks that is Papists giue it in both kindes When they sing Masse or Psalmes they leape and clap their hands and like the Iewes vse Stage-Players actions They vse their owne that is the Egyptian tongue in Diuine seruice and obseruing a Lent of fiftie dayes at one time do greatly maccrate their bodies In the Church they keepe the Chappell adioyning to the Sepulcher and the pillar where they say Christ was crowned with Thornes The Armenians are so called of the Prouince Armenta which they inhabite and they call their chiefe Bishop Catholicon whom they reuerence as another Pope They disagree with the Greekes and rather apply themselues to the Franks yet they keepe not the Feast of Christs birth but fast that day They keepe the Roman Lent but more strictly abstaining from Fish and very Oyle which they vse for butter but vpon some Holy-dayes in that time they eate flesh They mingle no water with the Wine of the Sacrament as the Papists doe but with them they lift vp the bread yea and the Cup also to be worshipped Of old with reseruation of customes they ioyned themselues to the Roman Church but finding the Pope to giue them no helpe against their enemies they quickly fell from him The very Lay men are shaued like Clerkes vpon their heads but in the forme of a Crosse and their Priests keepe the haire of their heads long in two tusts placing therein great Religion In the Church they keepe the pillar where they say the garments of Christ were parted and lots cast vpon his Coate and in the Citie the place where they say Saint lames was beheaded and the house of the High Priest Caiphas vpon Mount Sion The Nestorians are so called of the Monke Nestorius who infected the Persians Tartars and Iewes with his heresie They giue the Sacrament of the Lords Supper in both kindes and that to children as well as men They vse the Caldean tongue in diuine seruice and otherwise the Arabian In the Church they keepe the prison wherein they say Christ was shut vp The Maronites inhabite Phanicia and the Mount of Libanus and they vse the Syrian tongue in their diuine seruice namely as I thinke the Arabian And they said that these men for pouerty were lately fled from Ierusalem Some make mention of a tenth sect namely the lacobites named of Iacob Disciple to the Patriarke of Alexandria who liue mingled among Turkes Tartares inhabiting partly Nubia in Afrike partly the Prouinces of India I remember not to haue seene any such at my being there neither yet to haue heard any mention of them yet others write that they admit circumcision as well as baptisme and besides print the signe of the Crosse by an hot Iron in some conspicuous part of their body that they confesse their sinnes onely to God not to their Priests that they acknowledge but one nature in Christ that in token of their faith they make the signe of the Crosse with one finger and giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper in both kinds yea to Infants as well as to those who are of full age I cannot omit an old Spanish woman who had for many yeeres liued there locked vp in the Temple lodging euery night at the doore of the sepulcher and hauing her diet by the Friars almes Shee said that shee came to Ierusalem to expiate her sinnesby that holy pilgrimage that shee had then beene there seuen yeeres and in that time had alwaies
higher and higher towards the West and consists especially of one broad and very faire street which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people and this length from the East to the West is about a mile whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow and cannot be halfe a mile At the furthest end towards the West is a very strong Castle which the Scots hold vnexpugnable Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines Castle meyned agnea by the Scots The Castle of the Maids or Virgines of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts and by Ptolomy the winged Castle And from this Castle towards the West is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top out of which this Castle is cut But on the North South sides without the wals lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the foresaid faire streete the Cathedrall Church is built which is large and lightsome but little stately for the building and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit And opposite to the same is another seat very like it in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance and some few weekes past a Gentleman being a stranger and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit boldly entred the same in Sermon time till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort to the disturbance of the whole Congregation The houses are built of vnpolished stone and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone which in that broade streete would make a faire shew but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries built vpon the second story of the houses yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect into the said faire and broad street when they sit or stand in the same The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones and seeme ancient but are very narrow and in some places exceeding low in other ruiued From Edenborow there is a ditch of water yet not running from the Inland but rising ofsprings which is carried to Lethe and so to the Sea Lethe is seated vpon a creek of the Sea called the Frith some mile from Edenborow and hath a most commodious and large Hauen When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots againe the French who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe but Elizabeth Queene of England called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen called in by the Queene soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey and these fortifications were demolished Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin to the Village King-korn being eight miles distant and seated in the Region or Country called Fife which is a Peninsule that is almost an Iland lying betweene two creekes of the Sea called Frith and Taye and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld among other fish store of oysters shel fishes and this Countrey is populous and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues though trees are so rare in those parts as I remember not to haue seene one wood From the said Village King-korn I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife where I did gladly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking for which this ground is much commended but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall hauing nothing in it remarkeable I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City seated in Fife and well known as an Vniuersity and the seate of the Archbishop But this iourney being hindred I wil onely say that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England Likewise I purposed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke which King Iames the sixth since adorned with many buildings and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland being vnder yeeres And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England so as I returned presently to Edenborow and thence to Barwicke the same way I came I adde for passengers instruction that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland may passe from Edenborow to Carlile chiefe City of Comberland in England and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke and then through Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Warwickeshire Staffordshire and Chesshire may take their iourney to the City Westchester whence they shall haue commodity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland and while they expect this passage they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire and Caernaruenshire in Northwales to see the antiquities thereof or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France And all this circuit beginning at London may with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere be easily made from the beginning of March to the end of September Alwaies I professe onely to prescribe this course to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England mentioned in Camdens compleat description thereof CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts and the diuers moneys of diuers parts together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations most necessary
suddenly expose himselfe to cold and that when he is extremely cold hee likewise warme himselfe by little and little not suddenly at a great fier or in a hot stoue and that after dinner he rest a while Touching sleepe breeding by excesse raw humours and watching that dries the body they are happy who keepe the meane and they are the Phisitians friends who delight in extremes and to their counsell I commend them In the last place touching accidents or motions of the minde I will onely say that mirth is a great preseruer of health and sadnesse a very plague thereunto The bodie followes the temper of the mind as the temper of the mind followes that of the body My selfe haue been twice sicke to death in forraigne parts 〈◊〉 when I lost my dearest Brother Henry in Asia whose death I must euer lament with the same passion as Dauid did that of Absolon who wished to redeeme his life with his owne death and surely I freely professe his life had been more profitable then mine both to our friends and to the Common-wealth The second time I was sicke to death at home in England vpon a lesse iust but like cause namely griefe Thus being at the gates of death twice for griefe I found the Poet to say most truly that care maketh gray headed and Seneca no lesse truly that he who hath escaped Stix and the infernall Haggs to him in care hee will shew Hell it selfe To speake something of preseruing health by Sea He that would not vomit at all let him some dayes before he take ship and after at Sea diminish his accustomed meat and especially drinke and let him take the following remedies against ill smelles and weakenesse of stomack Some aduise that he should drinke Sea water mingled with his Wine and some more sparing that he drinke Sea water alone which dries cold humours and shuts the Orifice of the belly and stomack But I thinke they doe ill who altogether restraine vomiting for no doubt that working of the Sea is very healthfull Therefore I would rather aduise him to vse him accustomed diet till he haue sailed one day or two into the Maine or till he feele his body weake and thinkes it enough purged then let him take meates agreeable to the Sea in small proportion as powdred Beefe Neates-tongues dried and like salt meates and after eating let him seale his stomake with Marmalate Let him often eate Pomegranates Quinces Corianders prepared and such meates as are sharpe and comfort the stomake and let him drinke strong Wines and sometimes hot Waters but sparingly and let him dip a piece of bisket in his Wine And to restraine the extremity of vomiting till he be somewhat vsed to the Sea let him forbeare to looke vpon the waues of the Sea or much to lift vp his head To auoid the ill smelles of the ship hee may in Summer carry red Roses or the dried leaues thereof Lemmons Oranges and like things of good odour and in Winter hee may carry the roote or leaues of Angelica Cloues Rosemary and the foresaid Lemmons Oranges and Rose leaues To conclude if there bee no Phisitian in the ship let him that is sickly take counsell of the Phisitian at home for the remedies of that weakenesse to which himselfe is most subiect and of diseases most proper to Seamen especially if he take any long voiage 19 To teach the Traueller how to behaue himselfe in forraigne parts is a large and intricate precept whereof I will handle many branches in this and the next following Precepts It is an old saying Cum fueris Romae Romano viuito more Cum fueris alibi viuito more loci Being at Rome the Roman manners vse And otherwhere each places custome chuse Surely a Traueller must liue after other mens fashion not his owne alwaies auoiding extremities by discretion according to the Italian Prouerb Paese doue vai vsa comme truoui The Country where thou goest Vse thou as doe the most Now in this so great varietie of fashions in all Nations it seemes vnpossible to giue any set rules since the French say well Tant de payis tant'de guises As many Nations So many fashions And since no man is able to number these diuers euents first I aduise the Traueller in generall to be so wary as he aduenture not to doe any new thing till the example of others giue him confidence Let him reproue nothing in another mans house much lesse in a strange Common wealth in which kind it is not amisse to seeme dumb or tongue-tied so he diligently imploy his eyes and eares to obserue al profitable things Let him be curteous euen somewhat to wards the vice of curtesie to his Host the children and his fellow soiourners in the house I doe not aduise him to imitate them who will put off their hat to a very Dog for in all actions basenesse must bee shunned and decency embraced but it is veniall somewhat to offend in the better part applying our selues to the diuers natures of men If hee shall apply himselfe to their manners tongue apparrell and diet with whom he liues hee shall catch their loues as it were with a fish-hooke For diet he needes lesse care but for apparrell he must sit it to their liking for it is a good precept aswell at home as abroad to eate according to our owne appetite but to bee apparrelled to other mens liking I haue obserued the Germans and French in Italy to liue and conuerse most with their owne Countrimen disdaining to apply themselues to the Italians language apparrell and diet and the English aboue all others to subiect themselues to the Lawes customes language and apparrell of other Nations And hence it is that the conuersation of the English abroad is wonderfullie pleasing vnto strangers Onely because they are forced to dissemble their Countrie among Papists I haue found by experience that other Nations whose habit and name they take haue reaped the commendation of this their vertue and it is certaine that the Germanes whom the English do often personate haue thereupon beene often praysed in forraigne parts for their temperance and other vertues lesse proper to them In the meane time the English who are thus pleasing for this vertue while they dissemble their Countrie are by other accidents lesse agreeable to the liking of strangers in diuers places when they confesse what Countrie-men they are as in Italy for the difference of Religion in the Low-Countries for that many of them haue gone away in their debts in France and Scotland for the old hatred of both Nations and in the Hans or sea-bordering Cities for the many iniuries they pretend to haue receiued from English men of warre at Sea Perhaps seuere and froward censors may iudge it an apish vice thus to imitate other nations but in my opinion this obsequiousnes of conuersation making vs become all things to all men deserues the opinion of a wise man and one that is not subiect
Prouince are Germans as well in language as manners 5 Saxony containes all that lies betweene Hassia Silesia Polonia Bohemia and the Baltick sea so as at this day Lusatia Misnia Turingia both the Markes and the Dukedomes of Brunswick and of Meckleburg are contained therein 6 Lusatia is a little Region annexed to the Kingdome of Bohemia In the vpper part are the Cities Gurlitz an Vniuersity and Pautsan and Siltania In the lower Sorauick and Cotwick and the Riuer Sprea runnes through them both 7 Misnia was of old inhabited by the Hermondari and Sorabi of the Sclauonian Nation It is a fertill Region and therein begin the Mountaines which ptolomy calles Suditi in which are mines of mettals and especially of siluer The Cities thereof are Misnia vulgarly Misen Torg Leipzig and Witteberg two Vniuersities Fryburg the fields whereof haue rich mines of siluer Dresden the seate of the Saxon Elector Remnitz and Suicania 8 The Prouince of Turingia is said of old to haue been inhabited by the Gothes because the chiefe City is called Gota The Metropolitan City is Erford being large and ancient and one of the free Cities of the Empire This Prouince is subiect to the Duke of Saxony with the title of Langraue as Misnia is also with the title of Marquis 9 The Riuer Odera hath his head spring in Marchia and runnes through it deuiding it into the new Marke and the old The chiefe Citie of the old is Franckford vpon the Odera so called in difference of the more knowne Franckford vpon the Maene The new Marke hath these Cities Berlin the seate of the Elector and Brandeburg of which the Elector of Brandeburg hath that stile and both the new and old are subiect to the said Elector 10 Brunswick giues the name to that Dukedome and hath the name of Bruno that built it and is a free Citie of the Empire strongly fortified and not any way subiect to the Duke of Brunswick though vpon some old title hee hath the name thereof and possesseth the rest of the Dukedome holding his Court at Wolfenbriten not farre distant from Brunswick 11 The Dukedom of Meckelburg was of old inhabited by the Pharadini as Ptolomy writes It hath two Cities both on the Seaside Wismar and Rostoch an Vniuersity 12 Hassia is a mountanous Country in which Ptolomy placeth for old inhabitants the Longobardi the Chatti the Teucteri and the Chriones At this day it is subiect to the Family of the Landgraues of Hassia It hath these Cities Casseits the chiefe seat of the elder brother of that Family Hersphild and Marpurg an Vniuersitie The tract vpon the Riuer Louia is deuided into the County of Nassaw whereof the chiefe Towne is Dillenberg and the County of Catzmelbogen so called of the Chatti inhabitants and Melibots a famous Mountaine The Bishoprick of Colen giues title to one of the Clergie Electors and was of old inhabited by the Vbij of whom the chiefe Citie was first called Vbiopolis which Marcus Agrippae repaired and called it Agripina Augusta but Marcomirus King of the Francks or French conquering it called it Colonia It is a small Country and the Bishop Elector hath most part of his reuenues from other places 13 Iuliacum is a little Region and hath title of a Dukedome 14 The Dukedom of Cleue was of old inhabited by the Vstpetes and the City Cleue is the seate of the Duke 15 Westphalia is a large Region inhabited by the Cherusci Teucteri Bructeri and the Vigenoues and it hath these Cities Padeborn Munster which the Anabaptists held in time of Luther Breme a free city of the Empire fairely built vpon the Riuer Visurgis and Mindawe 16 Easterly Freesland lyes vpon the Riuer Aniesus vulgarly Emms and is a County subiect to the Count of Emden who hath his name of the chiefe Citie Emden but of late vpon some difference he was for a time driuen out of that City so as it seemes hee hath not absolute power ouer it 17 Pomerania was of old inhabited by the Hermiones and lies vpon the Baltike sea or Oest sea and is subiect to the Duke thereof It hath these Townes Stetin coberg both on the Sea-side Sund Stutgard and Grippwalt which lies also on the sea and is an old Vniuersitie but hath few or no Students 18 Bornssia or Prussia is at this day subiect to the King of Polonia by agreement made betweene the Polonians and the Knights of the Tentonick order but the inhabitants are Germans both in speech and manners The chiefe Cities are these Dantzk a famous Citie acknowledging the King of Poland for tributes yet so as they will not receiue him into the Citie but with such a traine as they like Another Citie is Konigsperg the seate of the Duke of Prussen who is of the Family of the Elector of Brandeburg but hath the Dukedome in Fee from the Kings of Poland to whom it fals in want of heires males The other Cities are Marieburg Elbing and Thorn which lies vpon the confines of Poland and witty Copernicus was borne there 19 Ltuonia is a part of Germany but hath neither the speech nor the manners thereof It was subdued some two hundred yeeres past and was brought from the worshipping of Idols and Deuils to Christian Religion yet in the Villages they haue not at this day fully left their old Idolatrie It is inhabited by the old Saxons and hath these Cities Refalia on the sea-side Derbt within land and the Metropolitan Citie Riga on the sea-side which the Duke of Moscony hath often but in vaine attempted to subdue Old Writers affirme as Munster witnesseth that the Germanes had perpetuall Winter and knew not Haruest for want of fruites This opinion no doubt proceeded rather from their neglect or ignorance of tyllage and husbandrie then from the indisposition of the ayre or soyle Yet I confesse that they haue farre greater cold then England lying more Northerly especially in lower Germany and the Prouinces lying vpon the Baltick or Oest Sea more especially in Prussen part of that shoare which the more it reacheth towards the East doth also more bend towards the North where in September my selfe did feele our Winters cold And since the Baltick sea is little subiect to ebbing and flowing and the waters therof are not much moued except it bee vpon a storme it is daily seene that in winter vpon a North or North-West wind this sea for a good distance from the land is frosen with hard yce to which the inland Riuers are much more subiect which argues the extreme cold that this part of Germany suffereth Also neare the Alpes though Southerly that part of Germany hauing the said Mountaines interposed betweene it and the Sunne and feeling the cold winds that blow from those Mountaines perpetually couered with snow doth much lesse partake the heat of the Sunne then others vnder the same paralell hauing not the said accidents Vpon these Alpes whereof I haue formerly spoken in this booke the snow lyes
it aboundeth with Wood but towards the Sea they burne Turfe made of earth and also burne Cow dung 3 The County of Hanaw hath the Principality of Arscot vnited to the Dukedome of Brabant by which the Dukes sonne hath the title of Prince The chiefe Cities of this County are Mons and Valinciennes It hath mines yeelding Leade and Marble of many colours and a good kind of Coales 4 The County of Zeland is by situation the first of the Vnited Prouinces consisting of many Ilands whereof seuen are principall and the chiefe is Walcherne the chiefe Citie whereof is Midleburg famous for trafficke and the Staple for Spanish and French Wines Neere that is the City Vlishing strongly fortified being the chiefe of the Forts then ingaged to the Crowne of England and kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of Sir Robert Sidney Knight for the second Fort ingaged to England lyes in another Iland and is called Brill being then kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of the Lord Barrows All these Ilands are fertile and yeeld excellent Corne more plentifully then any other Prouince so as one aker thereof is said to yeeld double to an aker of Brabant But they haue no sweete water nor good aire and for want of wood burne turffe They take plenty of sea-fishes which they Salt and carry into other Countries Madder for dying of wooll growes there plentifully which likewise they export and grow rich by selling these commodities as likewise Spanish and French Salt and like trafficke 5 The County of Holland called of old Battauia and inhabited by the Chatti as Tacitus writes is in situation the second of the vnited Prouinces but the first in dignity The Cities whereof are Amstelrodam famous for trafficke Rhoterodam where Erasmus was borne Leyden an Vniuersity Harlem Dort the staple for the Rhenish Wines and Delph all very faire Cities And I may not omit the most pleasant Village of the Hage called Grauenhage because the Counts Court was there and it is now the seate of the vnited States wanting onely wals to make it numbred among the most pleasant Cities being no doubt a Village yeelding to none for the pleasant seat This Prouince doth so abound with lakes pooles of water and artificiall ditches as it giues passage by water as well as by land to euery City and poorest Village which are infinite in number And these ditches itoweth for the most part to the Riuer Rheine For the Rheine of old running towards Leyden did fall a little below it into the Sea but at this day by reason the Land is low and subiect to ouerflowings it hath changed the bed and at Lobecum in the Dukedome of Cleue deuides it selfe into many branches The first runnes to Arnheim a City of Gelderland then to Vaua Rena and Battouodurum where Lecca receiues his waters and takes away the name from the Rheine yet so as a little branch thereof still holds the name of Rheine which running to Mastricht there deuides into two one whereof fals into Vecta and so into an arme of the Sea neere Munda the other runnes by Woerden and after a long course necre Leyden is deuided into fiue little branches whereof three fall into a lake and the fourth turnes to Renoburg and leeseth it selfe in mountaines of sand neere the Village Catwicke I remember that the water falling through Leyden is called Rheine so as I thinke it probable that all the standing waters lying betweene the seuerall pastures there come from the Rheine after it hath lost the name I said that the Rheine at Battouodurum is called Lecca which runnes to Culenburg and to Viana where in a ditch is the fountaine of Isala which runnes to 〈◊〉 Thus to omit the little branch at Battouodurum the first branch of the Rheine is lost in the Riuers Lecca and Isala The second branch bends from Lobecum to Neomagum and fals into the Brooke Meroutus taking the name of the old Family of Kings among the Gals where is an old Castle compassed with the Brooke and of the same name then running to Dort in Holland it receiues the foresaid Lecca and Isala and so neere Rhoterodame fals into the Mosa and vnder that name fals neere Brill into the German Sea The third branch of the Rheine running from Lobecum within two miles of Arnheime fals into the ditch of Drusus or rather of Germanicus and so runnes to Dewsborows the City of Drusus where it receiues the old Isala springing in Westphalia and by the name of Isala or Isell running to Zutphane and then to Deuentry fals into Tatus at Amstelrodame and by an arme of the Sea is carried to West-Freesland and so fals into the German Sea neere the Iland Flye 5 To returne to my purpose Holland is little in circuite but abounds with people and dwellings and being poore of it selfe is most rich by industrie and wanting both Wine and Corne yet furnisheth many Nations with both Neither Wooll nor Flax grow there but of both brought in to them they make linnen clothes much prised and also Woollen both carried to the very Indies I need not speake of Holland Cheeses so vulgarly knowne and much esteemed Lastly Holland is famous for the traffique of all commodities and the Romans so highly esteemed the Fortitude and faithfulnes of the old Battani as they had a Band of them for their Guard 6 The County of Zutphane is accompted part of Gelderland and subdued by the States Arinie was ioyned to the vnited Prouinces in the yeere 1591. 7 The County of Namures so called of the Cheese Citie hath Mines of Iron and plenty of stony Coale contrarie to all other Coales in that it is quenched by the infusion of Oyle It hath also an ill smell which they take away by the sprinckling of Salt and it burnes more cleere hauing water cast vpon it This County hath also quarries of Free-stone and of Marble of diuers colours 8 The Dukedome of Luxenburg hath the name of the chiefe Citie and the inhabitants of the vpper part are Germanes but they of the lower parts are like the French in language and Manners 9 The Dukedom of Brabant hath faire Cities namely Antwerp most famous before the ciuil War because Maximilian of Austria brought thither frō Bruges in Flanders the famous traffique of all Nations by a ditch drawne to Sluce onely to bee failed vpon at the flowing of the Sea tides At this day forsaken of Merchants it lies ouergrowne with grasse and the said trafficke inricheth Holland and the vnited Prouinces The next City is Brissell of old the seate of the Dukes and now of the Spanish Gouernours Then Louan a famous Vniuersity Then Mechlin subiect to the vnited States Then Bergen-ap-zome a fortified City at this time committed to the custody of Sir Thomas Morgan Knight with an English Garrison The Inhabitants of this Dukedome were of old called Tungri 10 The Dukedome of Limburg hath Mastricht for the chiefe City
the Bishoprick of Licge pertaines to it wherein the City of Liege is the Bishops seate and the territory thereof yeelds a little quantity of a small wine and hath Mines yeelding a little Iron some leade and brimstone and a very little quantity of good gold The Mountaines yeeld a black Alablaster with marble and other stones especially stony coales in great quantity which being there found at first are now called generally Liege Coales 11 The Dukedome of Gelderland was of old inhabited by the Menappij and Sieambri and aboundeth with excellent pastures and meadowes so as great Heards of Cattle brought thither out of Denmarke to be sold are for great part fatted there The chiefe City is Nimmengen the second Harduike a fortified City subiect to the vnited States and the third Arnheim also subiect to them 12 The Territory of West-Freessand is diuided as Holland with artificiall ditches and aboundeth with eocellent pastures for fatting of the greatest heards of Cattle and yeeldeth it selfe all kinds of cattle of extraordinary bignesse as Horses of Freesland vulgarly knowne It hath many Cities where of the chiefe are Lewerden Dockam Fronikar an Vniuersity and Harlingen not to speake of nine other Townes fortified with wals and ditcbes This Territory is subiect or associated to the vnited States 13 The Territory of Groningen made part of Freesland by Cosmagraphers is also subiect to the States and hath the name of the chiefe City strongly fortified and seated in a fenny soyle 14 The Territory of Vtrecht is also associated vnder the same vnited States whose chiefe and very pleasant City is called Vtrecht 15 The Territory of Transisole vulgarly called De land ouer Ysseli the Land beyond Yssell is also associated to the vnited States whereof the chiefe City is Deuentry which besieged by the States Army in the yeere 1591 was then subdued and it lies neerer to the Sea It hath another City called swoll The vnited Prouinces of Netherland through which onely I did passe haue a most intemperate Aire the Winter cold being excessiue and the Summers heat farre exceeding the ordinary heate of that clime The reason of the cold is that the Northerne winds of themselues ordinarily cold doe here in a long course on all sides glide vpon the German Sea thereby gathering farre greater cold and so rush into those plaine Prouinces no where stopped either by mountaines or woods there being no Mountaines scarce any hils no woods scarce any groues to hinder them from violent passage with their vttermost force Like reason may be giuen for the heate For the same open Plaine no way shaddowed from the beames of the Sunne by opposition of Woods or Mountaines must needs in Summer be subiect to the heate of the Sunne and winds from land Adde that in Winter the frequent Riuers Lakes and Pooles or standing waters in finitely increase the coldnesse of the aire These waters aswell running as standing are almost all Winter frosen ouer with a thicke ice so as they will beare some hundreths of young men and women sliding vpon them with pattins according to their custome Yea the Arme of the Sea called Zwidersea lying within land betweene Holland and Freseland though it be large and deepe hauing only two flats or shoales yet being compassed with Ilands and the Continent is many times in Winter so frosen ouer as Victualers erect Tents in the middest of it hauing Beere and Wine and fier made vpon iron furnaces to refresh such as passe vpon sledges or sliding vpon iron patterns from one shoare to the other This cold is the cause why their sheepe and cattell are kept in stables to bring forth their young And howsoeuer the same be done in Italy subiect to great heate yet it is not of necessitie as here but out of the too great tendernesse of the Italians towards the few cattle they haue And this is the cause that how soeuer they vse not hot stoaues as the Germans doe yet the Weomen as well at home as in the Churches to driue away cold put vnder them little pannes of fier couered with boxes of wood boared full of holes in the top And this sordid remedy they carry with them by the high way in waggons which the Danes or Mosconites vse not though oppressed with greater cold onely some of the more noble Weomen disliking this remedy choose rather to weare breeches to defend them from the cold In this distemper of Aire it cannot be expected that there should be plenty of flowers and summer fruites No doubt in regard of the fatnesse of the soile watered with frequent ditches and through the foresaid heat of the Summer they might haue plenty of flowers and fruits were it not impossible or very difficult to preserue them from perishing by the winters cold and were not the Inhabitants carelesse of such dainties though in later times as they haue admitted forraigne manners so luxury hath more power with them then formerly it had I haue oft seene one Apple sold for a blancke and those great Cherries which are brought into England grow not here but in Flaunders and the Territories within Land They haue abundance of Butter Cheese and Rootes and howsoeuer they haue not of their owne full sufficiency of other things to maintaine life yet they abound with the same brought from other parts Some prouinces as the Bishoprick of Vtrecht yeeld corne to be transported but in generall the vnited Prouinces of which only I discourse in this place haue not sufficient corne for their owne vse yet by traffick at Dantzke they furnish themselues many other nations therewith They haue little plenty of Riuer fish excepting onely Eales but in the Mosa as it fals from Dort to the sea they haue plenty of Salmons and other fish which fishing did of old yeeld great profit to the Prince and Merchants And for Sea fishes salted and dried they make great trafficke therewith My selfe lying for a passage in the Iland Fly did see great quantity of shell-fish sold at a very low rate Great heards of Oxen and Calues are yeerely brought into these parts out of the Dukedome of Holst vnited to the Kingdome of Denmarke in which parts they feed most on dry and salt meates and these Heards are fatted in the rich pastures of Gelderland and Freesland There is great abundance of Sea Fowles especially in West-Freesland and they want not land Fowles They carefully nourish Storkes as presaging happinesse to an Aristocraticall gouernement making them nests on the tops of publike houses and punishing any that driue them away or trouble them In which kind also they preserue Hernes making nests in those groues which are onely in few Cities They haue a race of heauy Horses and strong which they sell in sorraigne parts vsing onely their Mares to draw Waggons and for like vses at home The Prouinces on the Sea Coast as I formerly said burne their owne earth by the frequent digging whereof they say the Sea or lake
at Harlem was first made And of these tnrffes they make fiers both cleere and of good smell without smoke and commodious to dresse meat to starch linnen and like vses They are notable Marriners yet in that to be blamed that being at Sea they vse no publike prayers that euer I heard And seuerall Cities haue great numbers of ships wherein they trade with such Industry and subtilty as they are in that point enuied of till Nations The very Italians who in foreseeing wisdome would bee accounted Promethei were by them made Epimethei wise after the deed too late repenting that when they came first to settie their trade in Flaunders they tooke youug youths of that Nation to bee their Cassiers who by writing letters for them learned the secrets of that trade and after to the Italians great preiudice exercised it themselues Some three Flemmings brethren or partners vse to settle themselues in as many Cities of great trade where they keepe such correspondency as by buying all things at the well head where they are cheapest and transporting them farre off where they are dearest and especially by liuing sparingly both in dyet and apparrell and not shaming to retaile any commodity in small parts which great Merchants disdaine to sell otherwise then by whole sale they haue attained the highest knowledge and riches of trading Thus they buy rawe silke of the Turkes and weaue the same into diuers stusses in Italy which they sell not there but transport them into England and the Northerne parts where they beare highest price and there retaile them by the smallest proportions They haue of their owne very fine Linnen and Woollen cloathes of diuers kindes and many clothes of Cotton Arras hangings plenty of Hops aswell on the Sea-coast of Beabant as in the East part of Holland and great store of Butter Cheese and Fish salted and dryed all which they transport Againe they bring from Dantzke store of Hemp whereof themselues make Ropes and Cables neither transport they any rude matter but by working it at home inrich many populous Cities Also from Dantzke they bring corne all kindes of pitch and other commodities of that place and from Italy many kindes of silke stuffies Also by the diligent fishing especially of Hertings on the Sea-coast of England they grow rich selling the same to all Nations and to the very English who are not so industrious in that trade Lastly they draw the commodities of all Nations to them and fetch them from the very Indies and in like sort they transport them to the remotest parts where they yeeld most gaine It is not amisse to adde the very words of Marchantius writing of the olde trade of Burges in Flanders since what I haue written is onely to bee vnderstood of the vnited Prouinces Thus he saith Lodouicus Crassus in the yeere 1323. granted a staple to Bruges which his sonne Malanus confirmed The Staple is a priuiledge of staying forraine Commodities in the place except the seller and bringer chuse rather to returne whence they came Bruges hath a Market place with a house for the meeting of Merchants at noone and euening which house was called the Burse of the houses of the extinct Family Bursa bearing three purses for their Armes engraueu vpon their houses The Marchants of England Scotland France Castilia Portugal Aragon Nanar Catnlania Biscaia the Hans Cities of Germanie namely Lubeck Hamberg Rostoch Dantzk eRiga Renel and diuers other Cities the Marchants of Venice Florence Genoa Luca and Milan namely fifteene Nations had each their Colledge or house here The Italians brought Chamblets and Grogram in made of Goates hayre in Galatia a prouince of the Lesser Asia they brought Hides thred of Silke of Siluer and of Gold and cloathes made of them they brought Iewels Wines of Candia Allum Brimstone Oyle Spices Apothecary Wares Mithridate Rhubarb Mummy Sena Cassia and the soile of Brasse The French brought Salt Red and white Wines Oyle and Paper The English brought Wooll Leade Tynne Beere Woollen cloathes especially those so make vailes for the Low countrey women The Scots brought skinnes of sheepe Conneys and other and course woollen cloathes The Spaniards and Portugals brought graine for Scarlet Dye Gold Siluer raw Silke thred of Silke the wood Guiacum Salsaparilla Vnicornes Horne and Spices The Germans with the Danes and Polakes brought Honey Waxe Corne Salt-Peter Wooll Glasse rich Furs Quick-siluer Armes Rhenish Wines Timber for building Againe they exported out of Flanders faire and great Horses fat Beenes Butter diuers kindes of Cheese pickeld and fumed Hertings diuers Sea-fishes salted Woollen and Linnen clothes Tapestry of great variety and beauty rare pictures and all manuary workes Thus Flanders gaue the name to all Netherland Bruges 〈◊〉 in the yeere 1414. got a priuiledge that they who were free of that Citie by Birth Gift Buying or Marriage should be free from all confiscation of their goods which exceedeth the priuiledges of any other Citie in Netherland for those of Ypre hauing the like yet loose it vpon any Force offered to the Prince The trade at Bruges beganne to decay in the yeere 1485 partly for the narrownesse and vnsafety of the Port of Sluce and the Riuer leading from thence to Bruges partly by the Fame of the large and commodious Riuer Scaldis at Antwerp and partly by the ciuill Warres For first the Portugals hauing taken Callicut in the East Indies carried their famous Spices to the Fayre of Antwerp in the yeere 1503. and contracting with that Citie drew the Fuggari and Welfari German Merchants thither And after the Merchants of Florence Lucca and the Spinolae of Genor and those of other Nations excepting part of the Spaniards leauing Bruges seated themselues at Antwerp about the yeere 1516. And they were inuited thither by the priuiledge of Marriage Dowries which became shadowes to many frauds For when Husbands either breake in life time or be found banckerouts at death the Wiues are preferred to all debters in the recouery of their dowry Notwithstanding Bruges at this day by the third generall taxe of Flaunders yet in vse payes something more then Ghant for publike vses These be the words of Iacobus Marchantius The foresaid trade of the vnited Prouinces hath at home much commodity and increase by the Riuers as the Rheine bringing downe the commodities of Germany and by the standing or little mouing waters which are most frequent and by channels or ditches wrought by hand and bearing at least little boates for passage to each City and Village but these waters for the most part ending in standing pooles by reason they fall into a low ground neere the Sea the Ayre is vnholsome the waters are neither of good smell nor taste neither doe they driue Mils as running waters doe elsewhere of which kind they haue few or none My selfe in a darke rainy day passing one of these said narrow channels numbered an hundred little boates at least which passed by vs and are hired at a
warme their beere till it haue a froth yet doe they not vse these night drinkings so frequently nor with such excesse as the Germans doe I remember that hauing beene at Sea in a great storme of wind thunder and lightning about the moneth of Nouember when such stormes are rare and being very wearie and sad I landed at Dockam in West-Freesland where at that time some yong Gentleweomen of that Countrey passing through that City towards Groning according to the fashion of those parts we did eate at an ordinary Table and after supper sat downe by the fier drinking one to the other where after our storme at Sea the custome of Freesland did somewhat recreate vs For if a woman drinke to a man the custome is that shee must bring him the Cup and kisse him he not mouing his feete nor scarcely his head to meete her and men drinking to them are tied to the like by custome A stranger would at first sight maruell at this custome and more specially that their very husbands should take it for a disgrace and be apt to quarrell with a man for omitting this ceremony towards their wiues yet they interpret this 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as if they iudged their wiues to be so foule or infamous or at least 〈◊〉 as they 〈◊〉 them vnworthy of that courtesie In the first Book of this third Part and in the Iournall of the first Part I haue particularly set downe the rates of expences for 〈◊〉 through those parts They greatly esteeme English Beere either for the 〈◊〉 wine or indeed the goodnes thereof and I haue obserued some in their cups thus to magnifie it English Beere English verstant English beare makes an English wit So in the Sea townes of England they sing this English rime 〈◊〉 of mutton and English Beere make the Flemmings tarry here They say that there be 〈◊〉 brewers at 〈◊〉 and there they imitate the English Beere and call that kind Delphs English But with no cost could they euer make as good as the English is though they prouided to haue English Brewers either by reason of the difference of the waters or rather as by experience I haue found because our Beere carried ouer Sea whereby it worke a new and goes a better fauour doth drinke much better then that we haue at home They say that of old there were more then 700 brewers at Torgaw till vpon the water 〈◊〉 or corrupted they forsooke that place It is not lawful to sel Rhenish wine and French white wine in the same tauerne lest they should be mixed but one man may sell French 〈◊〉 wine and Rhenish wine which cannot well be mixed without being 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And for the same cause they may not sel in one place diuers lands of the same country wine and of the same colour The Netherlanders vse lesse excesse in drinking 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Saxons and more then other Germans And if you aske a woman for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 she takes it for an honest excuse to say he is drunken and sleepes But I will truly say that for euery day drinking though it bee farre from sobernesse yet it is not with so great excesse as the Saxons vse neither in tauerns where they and specially the common sort most meet and in priuate feasts at home doe they vse so great excesse as the Saxons Neither doe drunken men reele in the streets of Netherland so frequently as they do in those of Saxony Only I did once see not without astonishment a man of honorable condition as it seemed by his apparrell of Veluet and many rings on his fingers who lay groueing on the ground close by the carte rutt of the high-way with two seruants distending his cloake betweene the Sun and him and when wee lighted from our waggon to behold more neerely this spectacle thinking the man to be killed or sore wounded his seruants made signes vnto vs that wee should not trouble him who was onely drunken and would be well assoone as he had slept a little At this we much wondred and went on our iourney At feasts they haue a fashion to put a Capons rump in the saltseller to contend who shall deserue it by drinking most for it The best sort at feasts for a frolike will change hats whereby it happens that Gallants shal weare a Burgers cap and a Burger an hat with a feather crying Tousfoiz a mode de Liege All fooles after the fashion of Liege Some wanting companions to drinke lay down their hat or cloke for a companion so playing thēselues both parts of drinking to pledging till they haue no more sence or vse of reason then the cloke or 〈◊〉 hath Lastly all bargaines contracts solemnities whatsoeuer are done in 〈◊〉 caps The longitude of Denmark and Norway extends 8 degrees and a 〈◊〉 from the Meridian of 27 degrees and a halfe to that of 36 degrees And the latitude extends 10 degrees from the paralell of 58 degrees to that of 68 degrees The Kingdome of Denmark is diuided into sixe parts Finmark Norway Gothia Scandia Seland and Iutland 1 Finmark reacheth towards the North beyond the Artick circle to the Castle Warthouse and therefore must needs be desart and barren 2 Norway in the Germans tongue signifies the way to the North and it is so large as of old it had and still retaineth the name of a Kingdome and towards Finmark it reacheth to the Artick circle The Cities are named 〈◊〉 not farre from the narrow Sea called Der Soundt and Nidrosia formerly called Trondia lying vpon the same sea and Bergis the seate of a Bishop and Solzburg a Citie of traffick In Norway they catch great store of Stockfish which they beate with cudgels and dry with cold and great store of a fish from the Greeke word called Plaise for the bredth thereof and they sell great quantity of this fish to the German Cities vpon the sea which they keep to feede the people in case the cities should be besieged 3 The Iland Gothia is annexed to the Crowne of Denmark yet the Succians tooke it in our time but the Danes recouered it againe Histories report that the Gothes came out of this Iland yet old Writers vnder the name of Scandia containe all the tract of the neck of Land lying from the Hyperborian Sea betweene the Northerne Ocean and the Bodick Gulfe from whence it is more probable that the Gothes came out then onely from this little Iland who after seated themselues vpon the Euxine sea and the banke of Danow and from thence made incursions vpon the Roman Empire And hereupon the said tract containing not onely Scandia and Gothia but all Norway and Suecia was by old Writers called the shop and sheath of Nations The Iland Gothia yeelds the rich Furres called Sabels 4 The Iland Scandia is also called Scondia and Scandinauia and Schonlandia that is faire land the beauty whereof the Danes highly extoll and for the firtiltie preferre it to Sealand though it passe the
ciuill warres I omit the Kings and Queenes Counties namely Ophaly and Leax inhabited by the Oconnors and Omores as likewise the Counties of Longford Fernes and Wicklo as lesse affoording memorable things 3 The third part of Ireland is Midia or Media called by the English Methe in our Fathers memory deuided into Eastmeath and Westmeath In Eastmeath is Drogheda vulgarly called Tredagh a faire and well inhabited Towne Trym is a little Towne vpon the confines of Vlster hauing a stately Castle but now much ruinated and it is more notable for being the ancient as it were Barrony of the Lacies Westmeath hath the Towne Deluin giuing the title of Baron to the English Family of the Nugents and Westmeath is also inhabited by many great Irish Septs as the Omaddens the Magoghigans Omalaghlens and MacCoghlans which seeme barbarous names Shamon is a great Riuer in a long course making many and great lakes as the large Lake or Lough Regith and yeeldes plentifull fishing as doe the frequent Riuers and all the Seas of Ireland Vpon this Riuer lies the Towne Athlon hauing a very faire Bridge of stone the worke of Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy and a strong faire Castle 4 Connaght is the fourth part of Ireland a fruitfull Prouince but hauing many Boggs and thicke Woods and it is diuided into sixe Countyes of Clare of Letrim of Galloway of Rosecomen of Maio and of Sugo The County of Clare or Thowmond hath his Enrles of Thowmond of the Family of the Obrenes the old Kings of Connaght and Toam is the seate of an Archbishop onely part but the greatest of this County was called Clare of Phomas Clare Earle of Glocester The adioyning Territory Clan Richard the land of Richards sonnes hath his Earles called Clanricard of the land but being of the English Family de Burgo vulgarly Burck and both these Earles were first created by Henry the eight In the same Territory is the Barony Atterith belonging to the Barons of the English Family Bermingham of old very warlike but their posteritie haue degenerated to the Irish barbarisme The city Galway giuing name to the County lying vpon the Sea is frequently inhabited with ciuill people and fairely built The Northern part of Connaght is inhabited by these Irish Septs O Conor O Rorke and Mac Diarmod Vpon the Westerne coast lyes the Iland Arran famous for the fabulous long life of the inhabitants 5 Vlster the fifth part of Ireland is a large Prouince woody fenny in some parts fertile in other parts barren but in al parts greene and pleasant to behold and exceedingly stoared with Cattell The next part to the Pale and to England is diuided into three Countyes Lowth Down and Antrimme the rest containes seuen Counties Monaghan Tyrone Armach Colrane Donergall Fermanagh and Cauon Lowth is inhabited by English-Irish Down and Antrimme being contained vnder the same name and the Barrons thereof be of the Berminghams family and remaine louing to the English Monaghan was inhabited by the English family Fitzursi and these are become degenerate and barbarous and in the sense of that name are in the Irish tongue called Mac Mahon that is the sonnes of Beares I forbeare to speake of Tyrone and the Earle thereof infamous for his Rebellion which I haue at large handled in the second part of this work Armach is the seate of an Archbishop and the Metropolitan City of the whole Iland but in time of the Rebellion was altogether ruinated The other Countyes haue not many memorable things therefore it shall suffice to speake of them briefely The neck of land called Lecale is a pleasant little territory fertile and abounding with fish and all things for food and therein is Downe at this time a ruined Towne but the seate of a Bishop and famous for the buriall of S Patrick S. Bridget and S. Columb The Towne of Carickfergus is well knowne by the safe Hauen The Riuer Bann running through the Lake Euagh into the Sea is famous for the fishing of Salmons the water being most cleare wherein the Salmons much delight The great Families or Septs of Vlster are thus named O Neale O Donnel wherof the chiefe was lately created Earle of Tirconnel O Buil Mac Guyre O Cane O Dogharty Mac Mahown Mac Gennis Mac Sorleigh c. The Lake Ern compassed with thicke Woods hath such plenty of fish as the fishermen feare the breaking of their nets rather then want of fish Towards the North in the middest of vast woods and as I thinke in the County Donergall is a lake and therein an Iland in which is a Caue famous for the apparition of spirits which the inhabitants call Ellanui frugadory that is The Iland of Purgatory and they call it Saint Patricks Purgatory fabling that hee obtained of God by prayer that the Irish seeing the paines of the damned might more carefully auoide sinne The land of Ireland is vneuen mountanous soft watry woody and open to windes and flouds of raine and so fenny as it hath Bogges vpon the very tops of Mountaines not bearing man or beast but dangerous to passe and such Bogs are frequent ouer all Ireland Our Matriners obserue the sayling into Ireland to be more dangerous not onely because many tides meeting makes the sea apt to swell vpon any storme but especially because they euer find the coast of Ireland couered with mists whereas the coast of England is commonly cleare and to be seene farre off The ayre of Ireland is vnapt to ripen seedes yet as Mela witnesseth the earth is luxurions in yeelding faire and sweete hearbs Ireland is little troubled with thunders lightnings or earthquakes yet I know not vpon what presage in the yeere 1601 and in the moneth of Nouember almost ended at the siege of Kinsale and few daies before the famous Battell in which the Rebels were happily ouerthrowne we did nightly heare and see great thundrings lightnings not without some astonishment what they should presage The fields are not onely most apt to feede Cattell but yeeld also great increase of Corne I wil freely say that I obserued the winters cold to be far more mild thē it is in England so as the Irish pastures are more greene and so likewise the gardens al winter time but that in Summer by reason of the cloudy ayre and watry soyle the heate of the Sunne hath not such power to ripen corne and fruits so as their haruest is much later then in England Also I obserued that the best sorts of flowers and fruits are much rarer in Ireland then in England which notwithstanding is more to bee attributed to the inhabitants then to the ayre For Ireland being oft troubled with Rebellions and the Rebels not only being idle themselues but in naturall malice destroying the labours of other men and cutting vp the very trees of fruits for the same cause or else to burne them For these reasons the inhabitants take lesse pleasure to till their grounds or plant trees content to