into 11 Provinces viz. Persis now called Far Susiana Caramania Gedrosso Drangiania Irica Arachossa Parapomisus Seccha Hircania and Ormus all very large and most of them Fertile On the confines of this Kingdom we found Men Armed with Bows and Quivers who stopped us because we were advanced before the Caravan but being certified that we belonged to it they let us pass These are the King's Officers set on the Roads to examine Strangers thereby to prevent Spys and Robbers entring into the Country and are upon most Roads having a pretty good Sallary out of the Treasury for their diligence and they get much Money of Passengers Having passed these Men we Travelled sometimes over Plains then Hills and then into Plains again and through many narrow Passages seeing on either Hand a very fruitful Country and the Persian's Houses many of them being made of Cane and built straglingly here and there we often changed the Point sometimes North or East or South-East as the way led us till we came by a Village of Cures called Nian the Hills about it were covered with Turpentine and wild Chesnut-Trees the Waters bordered with Agnus Castus and Rose-Laurels Here the Weather altered for it was very Cold in comparison of the Hot Countries we had passed before From hence we passed to a Village called Chegiafer it is composed of stragling Houses of rough Stone Earth Cane and Reeds covered with green Branches the former are their Summer-Houses and the latter their Winter-Houses Their Mosques in this place are built of rough Stone and Earth and on the way there are many Kervanserais commodious to Inn at very fine for the most part being beautified with a kind of black Stone some pollished and some rough but passing on through a vast track of Country we came to Hamadan to which place the Caravan was bound Hamadan is a large Town but in many places of it void spaces there being many Gardens and Ploughed Fields within the Walls the Houses are Stately yet built of Brick baked in the Sun It has one fair Street where they sell Stuffs and Cloaths ready made it has many Shops in it and lies near the Bezestein which is little but well compacted and indeed it is a Town of a pretty Trade many Caravans coming thither out of Turkey and other parts to buy and sell Merchandize though the Air and Water are unwholsome and no Wine to be found so that I was very ill there which made me hasten to be gone to a more agreeable Air. It is Commanded by a Cham under the King of Persia who is the same there as a Bassa in Turkey The Armenians have a Church here but keep it in no good Order To this and other Chams the King every Year sends a Rich Vest who go out of the Gate to receive it and return with it on without any other Ceremony then being attended by the chief Men of the place on Horseback and this is usually Cloth of Gold From hence we took Mules with our Lading for five Abasis a piece and one of these will carry 600 weight if need requires it and so taking leave of those of the Caravan that staid to negotiate their Affairs we set forward for Ispahan the Regal City of Persia and Metropolis of the Kingdom in a very strong Troop for though such care has been taken that Robberies are less frequented in Persia than in Turkey yet it is prudence however to be armed against Danger and passing early in the Morning through the King's Gate so called because it looks towards the Royal City We Traveled over Hills and Downs the way often altering from good to bad till we came to the Town of Nischar where we refreshed our selves in a ruinous Kervanserai on the Ground where Carpets were spread and drank Water out of a leathern Jugg called there a Matera From thence we Marched along the River side and came to lodg at another Village called Boulousch Kisar and the next Day encamped under Trees near Haran another Village where we were warned by our Muliters to keep a good Guard in the Night time for they told us Spys had been amongst us that Day to visit our Arms and see how we were provided but whether they liked them not or stood in fear I know not but certain it is we had there no disturbance Early in the Morning we marched again and passed by several pleasant Villages and Gardens and foarding the little River Dizava we came to a Town of that Name lying amongst Gardens in a spacious Plain and here we had a plentiful shower of Rain which was the first except a little mizling in our way since my departure from Aleppo and so by a long Journey taking in our way Sari Debile Mouchasaba Machat Scheber-Gird Angovan Agatch or Farsang Nichova Fagasun Ithua Ghulpaigan Arbane Deba little Villages and Towns of no great Note and passing by divers Kervanserais we came to Ispahan having seen by the way several Antelopes a great Beast between a Deer and a Goat very smift in running and climbing the Mountains CHAP. XIII A Description of Ispahan in what is curious and worthy of Remark in it ISpahan as I told you is the Principality and stands in the Province of Iraca part of the Ancient Parthia Here the Air is Dry Pleasant and more wholsome than in many other parts which is one main Reason the King usually keeps his Court here This City was Anciently called Hecatompolis being Recorded to have had 100 Gates It is beautified with Walls of a great heighth built of a red kind of a Marble and though the Houses are very Stately they are built with Brick baked in the Sun daubed over with a fine Clay mingled with Straw and white cast over with a very fine Plaister which is made of a Stone got out of the Neighbouring Mountains and burned to that whiteness this Plaister is the third part of the Charge of building a House they burn their Tiles indeed in a Kiln but they are not so lasting as ours There is in this City many very stately Mosques curiously adorned also sundry Pallaces Seraglios and Buildings of great Antiquity but many of the most Ancient are Ruinous The Persians take great delight in their Houses keeping them very neat and adorning them with curious Paintings Carpets and Tapestry for in these and their Gardens seem to consist their greatest Pride The Walls of this City will take 5 or 6 Hours at a pretty round pace on Foot to compass them because within them there are spacious Gardens adorned with pleasant Flowers and delicious Fruit-Trees served by Aquaducts that run there in Chanels watering and Fructifying the several quarters and in those Gardens are artificial Mounts bedded with Flowers and pleasant Summer-houses on the top of them shaded with Trees besides many stately Pallaces and the quarter where these are is called the New Town The Suburbs of this City are very large and the Nobles have Pallaces in it
Kingdoms viz. Narsinga Malavar Ballasia Cambaia Mandao Bengala Aristan Comora and Dellia The second seven viz. Macine Aracan Couchin-Chian Baram Siam Pegue Malavar The whole Country seems to take its denomination from the vast River Indus which runs 1000 Miles e'er it falls into the Sea and the Empire of the Great Mogul is the Principle many of the others being petty Kings some of them paying him Tribute and his Territories are usually called the Mogulistan The present Great Mogul is held to descend directly from the line of Tamarlan the Tartar whose Successors setled in the Indies and took to themselves the Name of Moguls to distinguish them from those to whom that Prince left Zagalay Persia Coraffau with other Countries to be Govern'd after him and they concluding this Name would contribute to the Glory of the Family because the People would be the more easily perswaded they are of the Race of the great Ginguiscan the first Emperour of the Ancient Moguls It has been successively maintained for many Generations and is a mighty Empire established in India As for Mogul is was anciently the Name of a mighty People Inhabiting a Country at the extreamity of East-Tartary inclining towards the North which others have called Mongul and Mongal some Mogulistan where Ginguiscan was Born and that Emperour reduced it wholly under his Obedience before he proceeded to the Conquest of the rest of Asia and both himself and Subjects were called Moguls The Great Mogul is said to carry 300000 Horse into the Field with him when he makes War beside a considerable Army of Foot yet the most knowing Indians say though he pays so many there is not above half of them in Arms at once The great Men that Command usually for their own advantage it being the most they have to live on double the Muster-Roll He has in his Dominions 20 Provinces or Governments and those that have made them more have mistaken by making two of one The true bounds of his Empire to the West are Macram or Sinde and Candabar On the East it reaches to the River Ganges on the South it is limitted by the Gulf of Bengala the great Sea and Decan on the North by a part of Tartary It extends from East to West above 400 Leagues and from North to South 500 and this vast space some Mountains and Desarts excepted is very much replenished with Cities Towns Castles Boroughs and pleasant Villages and the Country about them very fruitful in Corn Rice Fruits c. In the Province of Guzerat in this Empire is the Town of Surat of which I have spoke something already It lies in 22 Degrees 7 Minutes North Latitude watered by the River Tapty The Walls were formerly of Earth but they are framing now of Brick 2 Fathom and an half thick and of the same heighth being cautioned so to do for its better defence upon its being plundered by Raja Savegi who made himself Master of great Riches though he took not the Castle nor was able to force the Factories of the Europeans who had Fortified them with Cannon and making a stout defence saved their Goods from the spoil This Raja had his Government in the Mountains and did great mischiefs in India though Aurenzeb the Mogul or Emperor did all he could to prevent it In building the new Wall a great many Houses are left out of the Town especially those built of Cane When the Mousson or Monson a Wind that serves for Trade of Shiping blows the Town is full of People so that 't is difficult to get any Lodging and this is in January February March part of April and sometimes all that Month. It is Inhabited by Indians Persians Arabians Armenians Turks European Christians and some few other Nations though the proper Inhabitants are divided into 3 Orders the first of these include the Indian Moors and others of the Mahometan Religion the second are Gentils or Heathens who adore Idols the third are the Parsis who are likewise called Guares or Artechpirest adorers of Fire professing the Religion of the ancient Persians and these retired into India when Caylif Oman reduced Persia under the Power of the Mahometans The Banians are here the richest Merchants some of them being held to be worth 8 Millions of Crowns The Dutch particularly among other Europeans have driven a great Trade here as did the English and these had Houses assigned them for their Factories called Lodges very neatly built The Castle is built on the side of the River Tapty and is a Fort of moderate bigness and of good strength it stands at the South end of the Town and defends the Entry against those that would attack it It is square and flanked at each corner with large Towers The Ditches on 3 sides are filled with the Sea Water and the 4th which is on the West is washed by the River In this Castle the Mogul's Revenues gathered in the Province are kept and never sent to Court without Order On the West side there is a stately Gate to enter at which is in the Bazar or Meiden and this Castle has a particular Governor and the Town has another The Houses of the Rich are but meanly built of Timber Brick Lime and Tiles and most of these being fetched a great way renders building very dear by reason there is no Stone in this Province They make their Laths of Bambous Cane and they chuse by reason of the excessive heat of the Sun which drys and craks so fast to build when it Rains rather than in dry weather As for the Houses of the ordinary sort they are made of Cane and covered with Palm branches The Streets are large and even but not Paved They spare the Oxen here to Till the Land and carry Burthens feeding on Cow-Beef especially for the most part they have good Mutton and abundance of Poultry and eat with their Meats the Oyl of Cnicus Sylvestris or wild Saffron the best in the Indies also that of Sesamum which is common but not so good They have white and red Grapes there but they make an eager and unpleasant Wine because the heat is so excessive they have not deliberation enough to ripen nor is the strong Waters drunk there much better it is made of Jagre a a kind of course black Sugar dissolved in Water with the bruised Bark of the Baboul-Tree and so Distilled They make strong Water likewise of Tary and draw a Brandy from Rice Sugar and Dates which however is but very sorry stuff and kills many of the Europeans who coming a long Voyage too suddenly fasten on those Liquors and drink intemperately They infuse these ingredients likewise in Water and by setting them in the Sun make Vinegar At Surat are sold all sorts of Stuffs and Cotten Cloth that are made in the Indies likewise a great many European Commodities and those of China as Purceline Cabinets and Coffers adorned with Turquois Agats Cornelian Ivory and all sorts of Embellishments here are
as a Rule to them in their Government He abaseth himself not to set down in the Divan only he passes very stately through it when he is sent for by the Grand Signior who rises at his approach to do him Honour then places him by him on his Seat and discourses familiarly with him about matters of Religion State or Previous Questions and this Honour is allowed to no other Next to the Mufti in this sort of Dignity are the Cadile-Squires Talismen or two Doctors of the Law whose business it is to examine the Cadi's or Judges dispersed in the Provinces of the Empire and these for the most part are attendant on the Grand Signior One has Jurisdiction over the European Cadi's and the other over the rest and are Sovereign Judges within their own Jurisdiction in all causes about matters of Religion and are as it were Patriarchs These are of great Authority having places in the Divan and in the Council of Bassa's where they are consulted in the weighty Affairs of the Empire There are a degree of Churchmen not belonging to their Law called Mulli and these are instead of Bishops but directed in their proceedings by the Mufti Another sort there are called Nuderisi who act in the Nature of Suffragans and have under them several young Doctors of the Law called Naipi who are constituted in the absence of the Cadi's to hear and Redress grievances Next to the foregoing are the Hagi who write Books and inferior to them are the Cassii who Read to them as they Write These are their several degrees of Churchmen and Lawyers for the Turks are govern'd by a kind of an Ecclesiastical Law according to their Alcoran They have many Colleges which they call Medressa's Scituate in Constantinople and divers other Cities CHAP. IV. The Belief of the Turks and many other things practised among them as their Charity Mourning at Funerals Games Just Observances c. THE Turks believe that after any Person is Dead and layed in the Grave the Angels come to examine them and that they have Angels to guard them in their Life time every one being appointed to a particular Member and when they take up any piece of Paper in the Street least the Name of God should be writ on it they will not take it along with them for fear of putting it to prophane Uses but stick it on the next Wall so that the Cranies are often found stuck full of them yet they will Swear by the Name of God but it is to what is Truth for otherways they are looked on as Ignominious and Infidels As to their Belief they hold that divers Beasts go to Paradise as the Camel of Selch one of their Prophets the Ram of Abraham offered up in Sacrifice the Cow of Moses whose Ashes was mingled with the Water of Purification which seems to be the Golden Calf in Horeb Solomon's Ant the Parrot of the Queen of Sheba They also believe Jonas's Whale that cast him on dry Land and Mahomet's Ass shall be there likewise four Sleepers and a little Dog who led them to a Cave in time of Persecution where they slept 300 Years which seemed to them but as one Night for one of them going to buy Victuals when they awaked with Antiquated Money the time was discovered by the Date of the Coin They hold in Paradise according to Mahomet's promise that they shall enjoy Virgins fresh Coloured with large Black Eyes and Beautiful Boys attending them who at first shall be but Fifteen and never exceed Thirty Years of Age always in a Bloom or Spring of Beauty and that God shall appear to them every Friday which is their Sabbath that there they shall have Rivers pleasant Fields Gardens and the like They say those in Hell shall Drink scalding Water and Eat of the Fruit of a Tree called Zacon which grows out of the bottom of Hell and rises to a great heighth the Branches of it being like the Heads of Devils and if those that are in Hell have a little Faith after they are purged by Fire to consume their Sins they shall be washed in a Water called Selzaboul and then admitted into Paradise but those that have not Faith when they are consumed to Ashes shall be Created a new and so prepared Eternally to endure the Torments they hold a kind of Purgatory but they say there are many back Doors by which they may give the Devil the slip if they are watchful and cunning They Pray for the Dead and invocate a sort of Saints of their own making The Turks have many Fountains and in washing they think they are free from Defilements even after having lain with their Wives Noctural Pollutions their Urin dropping on their Garments or touch-a Dog and indeed in any other matters that they conceive they are Polluted and they are so Nice in it that upon Travelling they will go a great way to seek Water and if they find none to do it with Sand and indeed they keep their Bodies in all parts extream cleanly even to Superstition in many Rights and Ceremonies they use as the Abdest and Goust The sober Turks are very Charitable to Men and Beasts doing all they can to relieve them in their Necessities so that they supply the Poor for the most part without putting any to the Shame of appearing in the Streets to Beg some of them when they die leave Pensions to maintain Beasts to keep them during their Natural Lives and in Constantinople I saw a Bitch who had got into a Corner to cast her Whelps the Turks no sooner saw it but they made a Wall with Bricks and Stones about her and several run and fetched Victuals and other Necessaries which in a wonderful manner shewed their compassion towards the poor Creature nor did one or other leave attending her till the Puppies were taken from her and she capable of shifting for her self Images as I have already hinted are prohibited amongst the Turks but they are very desirous of curious Paintings though they are not Artists at it There is a prohibition of Usury by their Alcoran though it is connivingly done by the Turks and the Jews practice it frequently Swines Flesh is counted unclean among them and some Turks would rather die than Eat it nor dare the Shoomakers use Hog's Bristles in sowing their Shooes if it should be known they would be punished When a Turk dies there is great Mourning the greater the Quality the more the Women fall a howling excessively and those that cannot frame themselves to it hire those that are accustomed to it and as often as any Visitants come the Lamentation is renewed and when the Corps is in the Grave they go often thither to Weep the Widow expressing what good things her deceased Husband has done for her they often spread Carpets with Victuals that those that pass by may Eat it and Pray for the Soul of the deceased They set at the Head of the Grave a Stone which
Maiden Princess who was cured of a Leprosie by the Hot Waters for as a wonder in Nature there runs a Rivulet of Hot Water almost scalding those that step into it at first and there one sees the Tomb of Roland or Orland a very Valiant Man who defended the City against all Assaults his Sword Mace and other warlike Habiliaments hang by it but this Tomb stands on a Hill in a little Chapel where usually a Turkish Hermit Lives From this place I set forward to Smyrna and arrived there by several Stages finding nothing in the way memorable Smyrna is about 8 days Journey of a Caravan from Bursa It is a noted Town of Jonia they say it was first Founded by Tantulus and since called Smyrna by an Amazon of that Name who Conquered it it has been subject to Earthquakes and felt the dire effects of them by being reduced to a heap of Rubbish and after that built by Mark Anthony nearer to the Sea than at first it stood the People boast that Homer was Born there the Turks at present call it Ismyr This City Anciently one of the Seven Churches of Asia to whom St. John was commanded to Write is very well Peopled and Defended by a Castle but it is not strong there is a huge Cistern cut out of a Rock and the Amphitheatre where St. Policarp suffered Martyrdom There is another Castle nearer the Sea and on the Gate the Arms of the Church of Rome supposed to be erected by the Genoese who once were Masters of the City and all the Coast This Castle shuts the Port which is but little so that the Stranger Trading Ships ride at Anchor abroad in the Road which is good and spacious There is another Castle at the Mouth of the Road commanding the Ships that enter and go out for the Custom here is very considerable to the Grand Signior most European Traders having Consuls there The Country about it is Spacious Pleasant and Fruitful Oyl and a pleasant sort of Wine called Smyrna Wine in abundance The Air is Temperate for in the Heat of Summer the Northern Breezes blow and cool all the Region about it After I had tarried here 8 Days I found a Vessel bound for Alexandria in Aegypt I had read much of that anciently Famed Country which enticed me to lay hold on the opportunity of being an Eye-Witness of what had been almost every where spoke of it so embarked with my Baggage and in two Days came to an Anchor in the Port or Road of Chio a very fine Island mostly inhabited by Greeks There grows abundance of Mastick Trees which yield the Owners-great advantage they grow crooked like a Vine and being cut the Gum called Mastick at a certain Season flows from them and is the best that is to be found The Christians both Greeks and Latins have their free Liberty to exercise their Religion so that there are a great many Religious Houses and they enjoy greater Priviledges than any within the Turkish Dominions for here they have Bells in some Monasteries and elsewhere they are not allowed particularly at Niamoni The Villages stand here very thick and the Inhabitants are numerous but the Ship coming to Anchor here only by reason of bad Weather I had time to take but a slight View e'er I Sailed again and passing many other Islands as Samas Nicaria c. in the former of these in the Night I saw a light near the Sea rising and falling as big as a large Candle which the Patron of the Vessel who was a Greek told me always appeared in the Ruins of a Christian Church but as any Man approached it it vanished or removed further from them which made me conclude it was an Ignis fatuis rising from the Unctuous Vapours and kindled by Agitation These Islands are now Poor and of no great Note though Anciently very Famous I shall pass over other that appeared on Star and Larboard and sometimes a Head of us we Sailed near some in great danger by reason of the bad Weather and Rocks that jutted out in the shallowness of the Sea near them the Winds shifting and the Waves running high but after all at Sun rising a gentle Gale blowing from the South we spread our Sails and cleared our Vessel of a dangerous Streight between some Rocks and Islands that we were fallen in with and about Evening shifting to the North West we stood away South and by East so that next Morning we made the Island of Rhodes and about Noon came to an Anchor in a good Harbour to recruit our selves with Provisions for the Storms we met with spoiled most we brought with us the Waves frequently rowling over the wast of our small Vessel during that Violence so that a great deal of Water enter'd her and all Hands were at the Pump Night and Day This noted Island has Lycia to the North a Sea 20 Miles over separating them To the East Cyprus to the West Candie and to the South Aegypt it lies in a temperate Climate and is in Circuit about 100 Miles few Clouds are ever seen over it it is very Fruitful and the Turks strugled long before they could be entire Masters of it which happened in the Reign of Solyman the Magnificent for the City that gave the Name to this Island was then taken at the Expence of 150000 Turks from the great Master and Renowned Knights Hospitallers who Immortallized their Fame in defending it to the last extremity This City has two commodious Harbours did not the great one lie so open to the East and North-East Winds that sometimes drive Ships from their Anchors The Turks have built a strong new Tower in the place of the old one to command the Entrance and Centinels are placed in Turrets to give Notice of the approach of Ships It has a Bastion and Curtain that reaches to the Town so that it makes one side of the Port and there is an Old Castle over-against it Over this Port formerly stood a Huge Collossus of Brass one of the Wonders of the World for it stood stradling 50 Fathom one Foot from another and 70 Cubits high so that Ships under Sail passed under it it represented the Sun and was cast by Chares the Lydian In one Hand it held a Light-House to direct Ships in in dark Nights but it was thrown down by an Earthquake and being broken by the Sarasens when they Conquered Rhodes they sold it to a Jew who loaded 900 Camels with the Metal for Alexandria and now the Tower and Castle I mentioned are built where the Feet of it stood There are many Ancient Monuments remaining in this City as the Statue of St. Paul and divers others of Note The Escutcheons of Christian Princes and the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem The Building is Regular and the Streets pretty Fair. But now the Wind serving I was constrained to end my Observation here and return on Board we set Sail with a North-west
Wind and soon left Lindo a-stern being a little Rock at the point of the Island of Rhodes 20 Leagues from the City and on it there is a small Town with a very good Fort. The next that appeared was Scarpanto 17 Leagues distant from Lindo leaving it to the Starboard we enter'd the Gulf of Sataâ—ia where for a considerable time Sailing we had a Rowling Sea the Current there setting with Eddies and it is many times dangerous passing for Ships are often cast away there and here we were encompassed with many flashes of Lightning that glancing on the Waters made the Sea seem as on Fire looking very terrible and I plainly perceived the Master of the Ship was at a loss to stand in with the Coast so that it growing somewhat Calm we made little way that Night The Morning proving Fair the Man sent up to discover could however see no Land but the whiteishness of the Water made the Sailors conclude we must be near the Land of Aegypt which is the only Mark at a great distance that can be observed the Land lying so low that it is not made till a Ship is in a manner upon it This whiteness is occasioned by the River Nile that carries it a great way into the Sea and at this distance from the Coast we had many Flurreys accompanied with great Showers of Rain but they were in a little time over and the Wind coming about North-west we tacked and sent up again to discover but no Land appearing we kept sailing South and South-west but fearing to lose the Windward of Alexandria we stood East and by South but finding that a mistake we tacked about that we might get nearer to the Land from which we knew we could not be far distant and held on the same Course till we found our selves obliged to Tack and bear away South-west here we saw the Moon rise Ecclipsed half an hour after Sun-set which was not visible in England Holland France c. because there according to the Almanacks the Ecclips was to happen at 3 in the Afternoon Feb. 11. and the next Day we percieved the Sea very white about us and the Man that looked out cryed Land some thought it to be Damiette and others Bouquer but in the mean time that we might not Sail to Leeward we continued our Course South-west and in a few Hours we Tacked and stood North-east and about a quarter of an hour after the Wind turning North-west we bore away South and South-west and in conclusion we made the Bouquer and a little after the Farillon or Light-House of Alexandria and at 3 of the Clock in the Afternoon the same day we entered the Haven by the South One thing I found remarkable in approaching Land from Damiette to Rossetto between the two Branches of the Nile that from 40 Fathom Water it lessens every Mile till you come to Land Aegypt is bounded on the East with the Red Sea on the South with Asia on the West with Cyrene and on the North with the Mediterranean Sea CHAP. VII The Author's Arrival at Alexandria and what is observable there and his passing from thence to Caire BEING now at Land and recovered from my Sea fatigue by suitable Refreshments my curiosity lead me to take a view of this once so Renowned City Founded by Alexander the Great when after his Persian Expedition he brought Aegypt under his Subjection though it is not comparable to what it has been in its flourishing time as may appear by the Ruins about it and within its Circumference and the Venerable remains of Antiquity This Town is called by the Turks who possess all Aegypt Skenderia There are in it several Fondicks or large Houses where the English French Dutch and other Europeans have their appointed Residence paying no House Rent but on the contrary the Consuls receive Money of the Grand Signior Annually to keep them in suitable Repair they being every Evening shut up and the Keys carried to the Aga of the Castle who sends them back every Morning they are likewise shut up as is the Water-gate every Friday during Noon Prayer and this arises from an old Prophesie that the Franks for so they call all Christian Europeans shall become Masters of that place during Noon Prayer on a Friday Scarce any thing of the Ancient Town remains unruinated but the Walls and some Buildings towards the French Fondick which are almost ruined it being easie to distinguish the Ancient from the Later Buildings for the latter are low and ill-contrived This once Famous Town has three Ports one called the Old Harbour it is pretty large but the entrance difficult so that but few Vessels put in there the other two are separated by a little Island and higher up the Island was anciently called Pharos and is joyned to the main Land by a Stone Bridge and in the middle of it is a square Tower where the Powder is kept and at the end another Castle called Farillon standing where the Ancient Watch-Tower of Pharos stood which was accounted one of the Seven Wonders of the World The first of these Ports is a Harbour for the Galleys and is on one side defended by the Farillon and on the other by a slighter Castle but these Ports are encumbered with Stones and Rocks requiring a skilful Pilot to guide in Vessels of any considerable Burthen The Custom-house here is Farmed by a Turk and has a Jew for his Deputy and indeed the Receipt of Custom mostly passes through the Jew's Hands who can pleasure or displeasure many that Trade there There is also an Old Custom house but of little Note In Alexandria there is a Mount made of Ancient Ruins on which stands a square Tower and a Sentinel who puts out a Flag so soon as he descrys a Sail and every Vessel coming into the Port pays him something All Officers here depend on the Bassa of Aegypt who places and displaces them at his pleasure The Walls of this Town have Fals Brays and are flanked with great square Towers about 200 Paces distant one from another and a little Tower between every two of them in each of the great Tower there is a large square Hall the Vault of it supported by Pillars of Thebaick Stone and a great many Chambers above and over these a large Platform of 30 Foot Square and each of these anciently were able to maintain 200 Men the Walls are very thick and every where Port-holes in them these Castles have Cisterns replenished with Water but most part of those that encompassed the ancient Alexandria as it was in its Former Extent and Lustre are ruined by the length of Time and neglect of Repair but if the Turkish Officers catch an European Christian in these Towers they presently charge him as a Spy come to view the strength of the Town and then nothing but Money will release him from Punishment Near this Town is the famous Pillar of Pompey so much celebrated by Historians
makes it produce plentifully They have few Fruit-Trees and no Wine for the small quantity of Grapes found are thick rhined producing little Juyce The chief Trees are the Fig-Trees of Pharo the true Sycamore Cassa Papyrus Colocasse Orange Lemon and Myrtle Trees but these three last are mostly brought thither they have great store of Onions and other Roots also plenty of Corn and divers sorts of fine Fowls as Yellow Birds wild Turtles Pidgeons and Larks and indeed Aegypt may be rightly termed an Earthly Paradise did not the Oppression of their Governors much abate the Peoples pleasure but that is very great as in other parts of the Ottoman Empire At the cutting of the Khalis or Sluyce of the Nile there is a great Festival held and triumphant Shows by Land and Water with much rejoycing for many Days and whereas the Ancient Aegyptians used to Sacrifice a Boy and a Girl taken by lot to their fancied God of the River but the Turks abolished that ill Custom and instead thereof place on each side in the Night the resemblance of a Man and a Woman in Fire by fixing Lamps very dexterously to represent their Figures Aegypt as other Countries under the Turkish Government consists of a mixed People of divers Nations as Turks Jews Arabs Franks Armenians Greeks Moors and the Ancient Inhabitants who have liberty to exercise their Religion as they please but have Mulcts set upon them for the Turks care not what they do in that nature so they can screw Money out of them they being next to the Jews the most covetous of all People The Chief Government under the Grand Signior is in the Hands of a Bassa who has his Sub Bassa's The great Men of the Country are called Beys who often bring his Head into danger if he displeases them by their sending complaints to the Ottoman Port And thus having given you an account of the most considerable rarities of Aegypt as to what I saw there c. I shall further entertain you with my Travels to Palestine or the Holy-Land CHAP. X. Travels in Palestine or the Holy Land and all the remarkable Things and Places to be seen in it more exact than ever yet described Of Mount Libanus and places Adjacent BEING desirous to visit the Holy Land so much Famed throughout the World for the many Wonders God wrought there and the many Memorable and Venerable Antiquities yet to be seen I provided my self of such Necessaries as my Reason dictated and as I was told I should stand in need of Upon Notice that a Caravan was ready to part I went and enter'd my self one of the Company so every one having Notice and being in a readiness we set forward but the Wind blowing hard we had like to have been over-whelmed with Clouds of Sand raised by it which flying about our Ears spoiled some of our Provision however the Storm being over in 3 or 4 Hours we kept on our way with Timbrels Sounding to chear the Cammels that they might pursue their Journey with more Alacrity The first place that offered it self to us was Ithanque a little Town where the Caravan of Jerusalem makes its first Stage the next was Balbeys and from thence we proceeded the next Day to Salabia where are the pleasant Woods of Tamarisk and there we lay in Tents setting Guards for fear of a surprize from Robbers lurking in those Woods Our Caravan consisting of above 100 Camels besides Mules and Horses with a considerable strength of Men but no attempt was made and the next Evening we reached Elbir Devedar and encamped near some dirty Wells of Water that our Beasts might be the better refreshed and then marched to Catice where we had a Guard of Turks Armed to conduct us to Riche for now we were come within danger of the Arabs and there I saw a long Pit of fine white Salt which the People affirmed was made only of Rain Water We parted from thence and went to Birlab and having rested there we journied to Bi r Acat a place in the Desart destitute of Water yet full of Quick-sands however we were forced to lie there but the next Day travelling on we found a Well called Sibile-El-Bar-Acat made by an Aga who passed that way in his Journey to Constantinople it is covered with a Dome supported by Pillars This Water very much refreshed us and our Cattle but going from hence we entered again into the Quick-sands which reach as far as Riche and well it was we got to that place for about a quarter of an Hour after a Storm arose which lasted about 30 Hours This Village is not far from the Sea and has a Castle built of little Rock Stones as is likewise all the Houses of the Village and here I observed they had so much Marble that their Wells were made of that Stone and their Burying-places are full of them Having refreshed our selves we departed for Cauniows with a Guard of 8 Turks and from thence we Travelled through Quick-sands though it Rained Thundered and blew hard to Zaka a place where no Houses are for that Name was only given it from three Wells of Brackish Water we found there but passing on we came to Wells of pleasant Water and now we begun to have a prospect of a fine Country where some Corn-Land appeared which much encouraged us there we found many pleasant Trees and good Meadows so that now we concluded we were on the Borders of the Land of Promise and indeed we soon reached the City of Gaza which stands about two Miles from the Sea and was anciently very Stately and Famous for Trade many of the Ancient Pillars are yet remaining there being almost every where Marble Pillars to be seen it was one of the five Lordships of the Philistins the Gates of which Sampson carried away on his Shoulders and left them on a little Hill a Mile distant Near the City there is a Castle with 4 corner Towers and the Gates are of Iron Hard by this are found lumps of ruined Walls that cannot be broke with a Hammer being the Ruins of a Castle built by the Ancient Romans near the Castle behind the Burying-place where we encamped stood the House that Sampson pulled down when he by that means destroyed so many Phililistines and many other things of Note which I had not time to observe by reason the Caravan was in haste to depart From Gaza we passed to a Village called Megdel and so to Ithansedoud all the way there are pleasant Plains full of Trees and Corn and in the Season these Plains are Embroidered with Tulips and Emonies that grow without planting so passing a Village called Yebna at the end of it we crossed over a Bridge and from thence proceeded over lovely Plains to Rama and encamped in a Plain over-against it however I went with a few others to visit some Merchants that resided there This Town depends on the Bassa of Gaza Here is the House of Nicodemus
on carry Burthens draw in Coaches Carts Chariots the white ones are esteemed the best and bear an extraordinary price They make store of Salt-Petre in this Province which is done in this manner They dig a fat black Earth and put it into Pits mingling it there with Water and beating it with great Wooden Beaters so let it stand till the Water has imbibed the saltness then they draw it off in Pots Resine and Boyl it till it Rocks and being dried in the Sun they sell it to the Europeans who carry it home as Ballast and vend it at good Rates This Province is held to pay the Mogul between 30 and 33 Millions a Year by way of Tax and Customs Departing from hence mostly through a Country indifferent Fertil and watered with some small Branches of Rivers I entered the Province of Sinde or Sindy which by some is called Tatta bounded with Azmar to the East and the Mountains that border partly belonging to one Province on the North with Multan on the South with a Desart and the Indian Sea and on the West by Macram and Segestan It reaches from South to North in length on both sides the River Indus and the Orientals call that vast River Sinde or Sindy On the Banks of it was fought a Famous Battle between Ginguiscan first Emperor of the Tartars and the Antient Moguls and Sultan Gelaleddin which alotted the Empire to the former in his gaining a Victory wherein 200000 Men were Slain so that he utterly vanquished the Caezmian Princes who had for a long time been Masters of Persia all Zagatay and the greatest part of the Country of Turquestan This River runs 1000 Miles and receives many other Rivers into it its Banks are thick of Towns but there is no great store of Fish in it by reason of the Allegator or Crocodiles that destroy them The chief Town in this Province is Talta though there are several others of Note and Trade as Died or Diub-sind it lies between 24 and 25 Degrees North Latitude At Talta particularly there is a great Trade where the Indian Merchants come from all parts to buy up the Goods made there the Inhabitants being very ingenious in all kind of Arts. The great River mentioned makes many Islands towards this place which are very Fruitful but little Inhabited yet renders the Town very commodious were it not for the great heat that reigns there in the Summer Season At Lourebender 3 days Journey from this Town upon the Sea there is a fine Road for Shipping being reckoned by many the most commodious in the Indies which causes a great Trade where the Palanquins of Talta are vended being the neatest in Indostan The best and neatest Chariots and Coaches made in India are found here though the Indians Travel in Palanquins which are a kind of Couches with 4 Feet having on each side Ballisters 4 or 5 Inches high and at the Head and Feet a back-stay like a Childe's Cradle This Machin hangs by a long Pole called Pambou by the means of 2 Frames nailed to the Feet of the Couch these Frames have great Rings through which Ropes pass and also the Pole or Pambous and so the Planquin is carried on Mens Shoulders who ply for that end for a small matter These Machins are very richly adorned every one doing it after his own humour as he is able some with Tisue others with Cloth of Gold or rich Embroidery for as the Indians are generally Neat so they are mostly Proud taking a delight to show their finery to Strangers The other Provinces of the Mogul's Empire are Multan Candahar Caboul or Caboulistan Cachmir or Kichmir Lahors Ayoud or Haoud Varad or Varal Becar Halabas Oulesser or Bengala Malva Candich Balagate Doltabud Telenga and Baglana but these and some others in India not under the Jurisdiction of the Great Mogul for want of an opportunity and an indisposition I had by reason of the intemperateness of the Air upon often changing Climates not giving me leave to take a strict survey of them I hope the Reader will pardon some Omissions and be pleased to guess at them by what I have said of many in particular since as to Trade People Building Manners Customs c. they little vary only I shall say something of the Famous River Ganges and then conclude my Travels in this Torrid Country with General but very Material Observations The Ganges as well as Indus is a vast River full of pleasant Islands covered with lovely Indian Trees which delight the Passengers for 5 or 6 days Sailing The Heathens or Gentils Indians esteem the Water They have Temples and Pagods near it and here have a freedom of Worship the chief Pagods are that of Jaganat which is at one Mouth of the Ganges and that of the Town of Bonarous upon the River these are superstitiously decked with Gold and Jewels Millions of People repair thither and Festivals are kept for many days together when they carry their Idols in Triumph The Great Mogul drinks commonly of the Water of the Ganges though many affirm that if it be not boiled it causes a Flux This River having received a vast number of Brooks and Rivers from the North-east and West discharges it self by several Mouths into the vast Gulf of Bengala at the heighth of about 23 Degrees and this Gulf begins in 8 Degrees North Latitude and is reckoned 800 Leagues over On the sides of it to the East is many Towns belonging to divers petty Princes who are Sovereigns with whose Subjects as well as the Moguls the Europeans Trade for rich Commodities On the banks of the Ganges are Herds of Deer grazing but the Crocodiles destroy many of them by pulling them into the River when they come to Drink and then devour them I saw a Negro Boy pulled under by one of them as he was Swiming but saw him no more The Ships that Moar in the River where these most haunt keep Guard by Night to prevent their clambering on the Decks and surprizing the Men a sleep CHAP. XIX Of the Marriages Apparrels Superstitious Customs the keeping the Mogul 's Birth-Day and other Things observed by the Indians as the Funerals of their Dead c. HAving described many Things worthy of Note in India I now proceed to others which I purposely omitted that for Brevity sake I might have the conveniency of collecting and placing them together The Marriages of the Mahometan Indians especially those of Note are celebrated with Pompous shows and much Magnificency they are Married by a Moula or Mahometan Priest and then the Bride in rich Ornaments is carried to the Bridegroom's Apartments on an Elephant The Females Marry very young as at 8 9 and 10 years of Age and some sooner but those that Marry early leave of Child bearing at 30 and are very much wrinkled The Wedding Ceremonies of the Gentil Indians is this the Bramen or Priest after having said some Prayers over the Couple puts a Cloth between
on many things a strange fancy came into my Head that I had not compleated my first undertaking in visiting the several Parts of the World because I had not been in America though the fatigues and dangers I had run thro' might have been a sufficient Motive to have put a stop to my further Progress in strange Countries and give me satisfaction enough to have returned home but the report of the Golden Mountains and other things egged me on made me seek for an opportunity to pass to Cales where I doubted not but by one means or other to get a Passage into the Spanish Indies for that was it I Aimed at for the other I understood are little considerable as to Travellers and have nothing Extraordinary to be found in them and besides are mostly very well known to my Countrymen therefore in describing New-England Virginia Barbadoes Jamaica c. I should have furnished their Curiosity with nothing that is rare and new to them I had not waited a Week before an opportunity offered and I Embarked with such necessaries as I had procured Entering the Bay of Biscay we were taken with a violent Storm and sprung our Mizen it held us for 24 Hours so that every moment we thought we should become a prey to Neptune's Watery fry and this Storm was more terrible and threatned more danger than any I had seen before which made me repent my attempting so rashly as thinking God was angry with me for my presumption and then concluded if I could get safe ashoar I would rest quiet with what I had seen and felt the Storm at last blew over and then a fresh gale Providence so ordered it that we reached the desired Port. Being now on Land again at Cales or Cadiz in the Dominion of the King of Spain such is man's frailty I found my desire of Travelling not so much quenched as in the Tempest I fancied it A secret Inclination promised and urged me on that seeing I had made so many weary steps in 3 parts of the World I should now venture upon the proposed fourth held to be Larger and Richer than any of the other three and as fortune would throw it in my way to make me more resolved on it a Spanish Merchant whom I had been Intimately Acquainted withal in London I renewed my Acquaintance with him and he Entertained me very civilly but when I opened my Mind and unbosomed my Intentions he told me it would be a very difficult undertaking because the Officers of the Port had very strict Orders not to permit Strangers to Embarque for the Spanish Indies least they might be sent thither as Spies to discover the Havens and Strength of the Forts and other things that might be prejudicial to the Government I told him I had no such Intention that curiosity was only to inform my self as a Travellor of what was rare to be observed in a World which the alwise God had so Admirally framed and ordered and when I gave him a general account in what Parts I had been and showed him my Papers of Memorandums and curious Remarks he was satisfied promised to do his Endeavour for the furtherance and security of my passage and to furnish me with Money sutable to the Country upon Bills I gave him to receive by Exchange in London and then he let me know he was a Part-owner in one of the Ships that was to accompany the Galeons called the St. Johns D' Vlua and to be brief when the Fleet was ready to Sail he gave the Master private orders to conceal me in his Cabin and use me as a puculiar friend of his I had pretty well learned the Spanish in England which with little more attention I doubled not to Improve so well in my Voyage as to be taken for a Spaniard among the Native Spaniards of America who I was Informed but corruptly spoke the Language of old Spain In a little time a warning Piece was fired for the Fleet to weigh Anchor and tho' our Ship was narrowly searched I so well wraped my self up in a Ticking and lay instead of a Bolster at the Bedshead that I was not discovered tho' they turned up the Quilt and other covering to see if any had absconded under them that were not Licensed to depart Anchors weighed and the Wind being fair we set Sail with a prosperous Gale till we came to Colfo d' Yeguas a very turbulent Sea where the Ships and Galeons rowled and tottered extreamly the Waves dashing violently by reason of an Eddy occasion by a current that set into it and the Galleon who went only a Convoy having convey'd us thus left us as concluding we were out of danger especially of the Barbary Corisaries and then by the Masters advice I showed my self on the Decks as not fearing to be carried back again or hindered in my further passage and having the Wind constantly favourable we steered our course without meeting with any thing Remarkable till we made the Land of America about 6 Weeks after we set out from Cales Here I saw many Dorados or Golden Fish sporting in the Water so called because their Skins are of the Colour of Gold and the Sailers with Hooks and Lines catched a great many of them they Eat something like a Herring but more short and Sweet The first Land we stood in with was Desseada or as the Spaniards have named it The desired Land as being first found by Collumbus when he discovered the Western Indies but passing by it we stood with another Island called Margalanted Passing by that and Dominica we arrived at Guadalupe where we before designed to Refresh ourselves and casting Anchor in a safe Road before the Island as many as would had leave to go on ashoar The Indians who Inhabit it no sooner saw our Ships which they had long waited for and Expected by their Recoining the Course of the Moon which is the account of the Months they keep but they came running to the Shoar with Provisions to wellcome and refresh us which were Sugar Canes Plantons Tortois and some Fowl and for it they received Knives Beads and such like Trifles and many Rowed to the Ships in the Canoes Boats clouterly made like Troughs out of the main body of a Tree These People were naked Except a cloath to hide their Priveties and many of them like the Antient Britains had scarified on their Faces and other Parts the Figures of Flowers Suns Moons Stars Birds Beasts and the like and rings in their Nose which they looked on as their chief Ornament They are Idolaters worshipping the Host of Heaven The Commanders gave some of them Wine that came aboard which they Eagerly coveted but a little soon made them Drunk and kick up their heels on the Decks as being only used to drink Water and a Liquor that Distills out of the Plantain Tree Yet for all this kindness we could not but suspect they Murthered two of our men who went into
thither brought us plenty of Sweet-meats Diet-bread and Chocolet having before placed Tables and Benches for the purpose and the Indians particularly Assembled about us in great numbers welcoming us into the Country This place is but of indifferent Building and not of any considerable Trade for want of a good Harbour the Buildings are of Wood and here I observe the Friars have a great Command over the people for what they order them they immediately do rendring to them profound Honours and Respects Having refreshed our selves here we gave the people Thanks for their Civility and so took leave reaching a little before Night a small Indian Town where we Lodged and found very good Entertainment of Turkeys Hens Capons and Fruits The next Town of Note we came to was Xalappadela Vera Crux Consisting of about 2000 Inhabitants Spaniards and Indians This Town is a Bishop's See standing in a Fruitful Soil yielding store of Indian Wheat called Maize and some Spanish Wheat it is encompassed with Indian Villages Farms of Sugar Cochinil and Pastures that breed a great many Mules and other Cattel in the Town there is a large Church and Chappel both belonging to a Cloyster of Franciscan-Friars who live very loosely considering the Vows they make when they enter into that Order living Riotously and forgetting Chastity many of them living more like Gentlemen of great Estates than Men under the ridged severity of the Religious Order they profess The next place we Arrived at was Lu Rinconda which is only a kind of a Carevan-fair or Inn yet here we found store of Provision and particularly pleasant spring-Spring-water which much refreshed us considering the Heat we endured for it being the beginning of September the Weather was exceeding sultry in this Valley the Countrey about it showed very Green and Pleasant Consisting of a great number of Farms producing Corn pasture and Fruits but Lodging here in the Night time we were terribly pestered with the Gnats that stung us intolerably so that when we rise we scarce knew each other though at Sun-Rising they go away in swarms and come not again till after Sun-Set we passed some Villages that Day and by Night reached a Town called Segura Inhabited by Spaniards and Indians to the number of 1000. Hernando Cartez Built this Town as a Frontier on the first progress of his Conquests in Mexico against the Cullicacans and Tepeacus who were Confederates with the Mexicans and much annoy'd the Spaniards in the beginning of their Enterprize taking 12 of them Sacrificing them to their Idol and then made a merry Feast of their Flesh for which Cortez assisted by the Claxcullan Indians took Tepeacus by force and brought them with all their Territories under subjection to Spain Condemning them to perpetual Slavery in Revenge for the Murther of his Spaniards and overcame likewise the Cullucacans destroying their Idols and forcing the chiefest of them to attend him as his Servants or Slaves here we found store of Plantains Sappotes and Chicosapotes which are Fruits of a pleasant taste very juicy and sweet also fair Clusters of Grapes so that here and in many other parts of the Countrey if Vineyards were allowed to be Planted they would produce as good Wine if not better than that of Spain but the Spainish Kings have prohibited it least it should hinder the Trade between the two Countries for indeed except Wine Spain affords them little but what they have among them or might reasonably be contented without Out of the Road to Mexico a little Westward stands the famous Town of the Tlaxcallans who making an Alliance with Cortez were faithful Friends to him in his Wars after they had tryed his strength helping him to atchieve those Victories which for a long time scarce could be credited in Europe for they perceiving their numerous Forces could not prevail against his handful of Spaniards concluded them to be Gods and consequently innumerable because neither of their two Arrows they carried on their Standard took Effect though shot in wounding many of them they having a Prophecy that when they missed the Victory would always go against them Upon which after many bloody Battles wherein they lost 40 or 50000 of their Men they submitted and became ever after constant friends to the Spaniards and utter Enemies to Monte Zuma then Emperor of Mexico and his Successor and by their assistance Cortez took that great City and many other places for which this Town had greater Priviledges allowed it than any other in Judea This Province of Tlaxcallan had then 28 Towns and Villages depending on it contâ—ining 150000 Families which are now mostly inhabited by Spaniards the Indians in this part being kept under and very poor having little other wealth than the Corn called Centli though in the Town of Tlaxcallan there are Artifficers of both Nations and the Indians out-do the Spaniards in making curious Earthen-ware working in Gold Silver Feathers and other Manufactures A little before one comes to this Town there is the Ruins of their Ancient Wall that stood as a Boundard and Strangers were forbidden to pass it on pain of being Sacrificed in their Temples to the Idols of which they had great Numbers and for no other fault Cortez's Men underwent this Fate Tlaxcallan is pleasantly seated there is still a great Market kept in it where sometimes 5 or 10000 People assembled It has several Churches and Chaples in it and Cloisters of Tarians who grow rich out of the labour of the poor Indians some being imployed to fetch them Wood Water and to Fish for them being paid at the publick charge of the rest The two Streets of Ocotelulco and Fizatian are very fair and the best inhabited of any other the Town is not fortified as indeed few in the Spanish Indies are except the Sea-ports that are apt to be insulted by the Buckaniers the building is low and very indifferent it is a Seat of the chief Officers of Justice sent from Spain every three Years who is called the Alcalde Major whose power extends to all the Towns within 20 Leagues circumference The Indians likewise have among themselves Alcaldes Regidores and Alguaziles superiour and inferiour Officers of Justice appointed yearly by the Alcalde Major who keep them in awe fleecing them at their pleasure and exacting their service without any satisfaction Keeping on one way we came to a City called by the Spaniards la Puebla de les Angeles or the City of Angels I visited this City during my stay and found it very Rich being pestered with Cloisters and Monasteries which is a sign of Wealth for in poor Towns they rarely settle It is seated in a low and pleasant Valley about 3 Leagues from a very steep Mountain always covered with Snow though the Heat in the Valley is very great it was first Built and Inhabited in the Year 1530. being 20 Leagues from Mexico it is a Bishop's Sea and his Revenue is yearly about 20000 Duccats the Inhabitants are accounted