river falling into the Dravus and had very rocky way among high mountains till we came to Orlesteina a village where we lodged We travelled among high mountains very bad way to a village called Klein Tarvis two miles and proceeding on still among the mountains we came to the river Timent which runs into the Adriatic Sea and lodged this night at Pontieba the last town we passed in the Emperors countrey part of it is subject to the Emperor called Pontieba Imperiale and part to the Venetians called Pontieba Veneta where we took a bill of health for Venice Between Klein Tarvis and Pontieba we saw a herd of Goats following the Goat-herd like so many dogs in other places we have seen sheep in that manner following their shepherd which no doubt was usual in Judaea for our Saviour John 10. 4. comparing himself to a shepherd and his disciples and servants to sheep saith And he goeth before his sheep and they follow him for Which would have seemed strange to the hearers had the shepherds been wont only to drive their sheep as with us they do We past over the river Timent by a bridge that parts Carinthia from Friuli About a German mile off we came to a little fort in a village called Clausen where are two draw-bridges which we were not permitted to pass till we had delivered our bill of health Hence we travelled along by the river and observed timber-trees floted down the stream and when the rocks stopped them men with hooks put them off and directed them into the force of the current This is the manner all over the Alps and other high mountains they fell trees and get them to any little current of water and expect a good shot of rain and then flote them down to the greater rivers This day we passed Vensonga a pretty little wall'd town and lodged at Hospitaletto a large village where we got quit of the mountains and came into the plain Countrey of Friuli We passed by Limonia a wall'd town situate on the rising of a hill at the foot of the mountains Some miles further we passed S. Danicle then we forded the river Timent in several places The river heerabouts in a time of rain or when the snow melts on the mountains spreads itself to a very great breadth as appears by the empty chanel Soon after we had passed the river we ascended a cliff and entred the walls of a little town called Spilimberg where were rows or cloisters on each side the street under the houses which we after found in many of the towns of Lombardy ten Italian miles further riding brought us to S. Avogio a village where we rested this night We rode along the plains and at ten miles end came to Saribe a walled town where the river Livenza divides itself and encompasseth the wall From hence we drove on about two Dutoh miles and lodged at Conegliano a wall'd Town seated on the ridge of a hill a place of good account as is also Saribe All the way we travelled in Italy hitherto we had little other bread than what was made of Sorghum a grain the blade whereof arises to seven or eight foot highth and is as great as ones finger bearing a large panicle on the top the berry or seed being bigger than that of wheat and of a dusky colour We rode a Dutch mile and then ferried over the river Anaxus or Piave and at ten Italiam miles further come to Treaviso a large Town the head of a Province called Marea Trevisana an important place for strength but too near and too obnoxious to Venice to be rich From Treviso we rode through a very fertil and well cultivated countrey to Mestre a little Town by the Lagnne so they call the Flats about Venice which are all covered with water when the Tide is in where we took boat for Venice Upon the mountains we passed over this voyage we found a great number of plants we had not before met with as Quinquifolium albâ—m majus caulescâ—â—â— C. B. Quinquefolium album majus alterum C. B. Teucrium Alpinum Cisti flore Epimcdium vilgae Linaria purpurea parva J. B. And not far from Pontieba on Italy side upon the rocks Ledum Alpinum hirsutum C. B. Ledum Alpinum hirsutum minus An Cistus Austriacus myrtifolius Auricula ursiâ— Sedum serra tum alterum foliis longis angustis Sedum Alpinum minimum foliis cinereis flore candido J. B. Siler montanum and many others Helleborus niger verus plentifully all over the highest mountains Scabiosa argentea angustifolia in the chanels of the torrents in Friuli and Galega by the rivers and ditches every where in Italy In Marea Trevisana some part of Friuli and the greatest part of Lombardy we observed the Corn-fields to be so thick set with rows of trees that if a man from an hill or high tower should look down upon the Countrey at a distance he would take it to be a Wood. Against every Tree is planted a Vine which runs up the tree and the branches of the neighbour-vines they draw from tree to tree and tie together So that their Corn-fields are also Woods and Vine-yards the same land sufficing for all these productions and not being exhausted with so much spending as one would be apt to imagine by reason of the depth and richness of its soil Neither in this hot Countrey doth the Corn receive any prejudice from the shade or dropping of the Trees which in our colder Climate would quite marr it but rather advantage there falling little rain in Summer-time and the Trees keeping off the scorching Sun-beams which else might dry up and wither it the heat notwithstanding sufficing to bring the Grain to perfect maturity Whereas with us all the Sun we can give it is little enough and the very grass which grows under the trees is sowr and crude for that usually we have too little heat for our moisture and they too much This part of Italy hath been deservedly celebrated for fertility and may justly in my opinion be stiled the Garden of Europe OF VENICE VEnice is built upon certain little Islands in the middle of the Sea or rather in the middle of certain Flats or Shallows covered all over with water at full Sea but about the City when the Tide is out in many places bare called by the Italians Lagune These Lagune are enclosed and separated from the main Gulf or Adriatic Sea by a bank of earth il Lito or Lido they call it extending according to Contarini about 60 miles according to Leander Albertus and others who come nearer the truth but 35 and resemble the space conteined in a bent Bow the bow being the shore of the firm land and the Lido the string The City stands at an equal distance from the firm land of Italy and from the Lito viz. five miles from each This Lido serves as
well He also mentions a sort of excrescence or moss or scurf which the Rocks about S. Maria el Aalia and other places on the North side of the Island naturally put forth called by the Countrey people Vercella which they scrape off with an iron instrument and having washed it with a certain liquor and mingled it with other Ingredients He tells us not what that liquor or those ingredients are they expose it to the Sun and use it to dye wool of a carnation colour This kind of moss called in Wales Kenkerig and in England Cork or Arcel is gathered and used for the same purpose in Wales and the North of England Malta hath been famous of old for a breed of little Dogs called Catuli Melitaei the race whereof is quite extinct and now their Cats are as much esteemed The Roses of Malta contend for sweetness with those of Paestum and the Honey with that of Hybla or Hymettus So that some suppose this Island had its name Melita from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifying honey The air is clear and healthful and the people long lived Not much rain falls heer yet sufficient to supply water to feed their springs of which there are several in the high grounds or small hills about the middle of the Island That these Springs proceed from rain-water only my Author doth very well prove because they are found only at the foot of little hills consisting of a certain porous stone which the Maltese call Giorgiolena or a chalky earth which easily imbibes the rain And to speak in general that all springs and running waters owe their rise and continuance to rain seems to me more than probable 1. Because I never yet saw any springing or running waters breaking out either on the top of a hill or so near the top but that there was earth enough above them to feed such Springs considering the condition of high mountains which are almost constantly moistned with clouds and on which the Sun-beams have but little force and yet I have made it part of my business in viewing the highest hills in England and Wales to examine this particular Nor have I yet ever observed such springing and running waters in any plain unless there were hills so near that one might reasonably conclude they were fed by them 2. Many springs quite fail in dry Summers and generally all abate considerably of their waters I am not ignorant that some make a distinction between failing springs and enduring springs and would have the former to proceed from rain and the latter from the Sea but I see no sufficient foundation for such a distinction and do think that both the one and the other are to be attributed to rain the failing and enduring being to be referred either to the different quantity and thickness of earth that feeds them or to the different quality the one more quickly the other more slowly transmitting the water or some such like accident 3. In clay grounds into which the water sinks with difficulty one shall seldom find any springs but in sandy gravelly rocky stony or other grounds into which the rain can easily make its way one seldom fails of them 4. They who would have fountains to arise from and to be fed by the Sea have not as yet given a satisfactory account of the ascent of water to the tops of mountains and its efflux there For though water will creep up a filtre above its level yet I question whether to so great an excess above its aequilibrium with the air whereas in pumps we see it will not rise above two or three and thirty foot or if it should whether it would there run out at the top of the filtre we not having as yet heard of any experiment that will countenance such a thing For the ascent and efflux of sap in trees I suspect may be owing to a higher principle then purely mechanical As for the Sabulum Quellem or Arena bulliens of Helmont I look upon it as an extravagant conceit of his and yet some ground there is to believe that there is a kind of earth lying up and down in veins which doth like a filtre retain the water and carry or derive it along as it lies from place to place till it brings it to the supersicies of the earth where it runs out In other places there are subterraneous channels like the veins in animals whereinto the water soaking into the earth is gathered and wherein it runs as above ground out of smaller rivulets into greater streams and where one of these veins opens in the superficies of the earth there is a spring greater or lesser according to the magnitude of the vein Nor need we wonder that springs should endure the length of a dry Summer for in many sorts of earth the water makes its way but slowly since we see that in those troughs or leches wherein Landresses put ashes and thereupon water to make a lixivium the water will be often many hours before it gets all through the ash and the Lech ceases to drop and in many Chymical preparations which are filtred its long before the liquor can free it self and wholly drain away from the earthy and feculent part Some attribute the original of fountains to watery vapours elevated by subterraneous fires or at least by that generally diffused heat which Miners find in the earth when they come to 50 or 60 fathoms under ground and condensed by the tops and sides of the mountains as by an Alembick head and so distilling down and breaking out where they find issue And in reason one would think that generally the deeper one digs in the earth the colder one should find it sith the Urinators affirm that the deeper they dive in the Sea the colder still they find the water And yet were there such subterraneous heats they are not so great as that it is likely they should elevate vapours so high through so thick a coat of earth which it must be an intense heat indeed will carry them through which heat none say is found near the superficies of the earth Mr. Hook's account viz. that salt water being heavier than fresh by reason of its preponderancy it may drive up the fresh as high above the surface of the Sea as are the tops of mountains before it comes to an aequilibrium with it is very ingenious and would be most likely were there continued close channels from the bottom of the Sea to the tops of mountains not admitting the air which I believe will not be found in many places What is said about ebbing and flowing wells in confirmation of it adds no strength for none of those ebbing and flowing wells that I have yet seen do at all observe the motion of the Sea but reciprocate two or three times or oftner every hour excepting one on the Coast of South-Wales in a sandy ground by the Sea-side not ¼ of a mile from the water which
fruits doth not inhere in the oil at least which is made by expression and it deserves examination whether the chymical oil may not also be devested of the taste of the vegetable from which it is extracted Olives when they come to maturity change colour and become black as some other plums do but it is very late in the year first They are then notwithstanding of a horrid and ungrateful taste firing the throat and palate of one that eats them They afford most oil when fully ripe but best as they told us when gathered and pressed green Sometimes they pickle ripe olives but they will not last therefore those which they pickle to send abroad are gathered green The pickle they use is nothing else but a brine of salt and water Near Peroul about a league from Montpellier we saw a boiling fountain as they call it that is the water did heave up and bubble as if it boiled This phaenomenon in the water was caused by a vapour ascending out of the earth through the water as was manifest for that if one did but dig any where near the place and pour water upon the place new digged one should observe in it the like bubbling the vapour arising not only in that place where the fountain was but all thereabout The like vapor ascending out of the earth and causing such ebullition in water it passes through hath been observed in Mr. Hawkley's ground about a mile from the Town of Wigan in Lancashire which vapour by the application of a lighted candle paper or the like catches fire and flames vigorously Whether or no this vapour at Peroul would in like manner catch fire and burn I cannot say it coming not in our minds to make the experiment From Montpellier we took a journey of pleasure to see the adjacent Countrey and first we rode to Frontignan a little wall'd Town by the Estang side 3 miles distant which gives name to the so famous muscate wine The Countrey about this Town toward the Sea southward lies open to the Sun but toward the land northward it is encompassed with a ridge of hills in form of a bow touching the Sea at each end so that the whole is like a Theatre in the Arena and on the sides of the hills grows the muscate grape of which this wine is made In this space are contained two other little Towns the one called Miraval the other Vich This last gives name to a mineral water springing near it much used heerabout It hath an acide Vitriolic taste but nothing so strong as our Spaw-waters and therefore I guess the operation of it is much weaker At Frontignan and other places we saw the manner of making raisins uvae passae They take the fairest bunches and with a pair of scissers ship off all the faulty grapes and tie two bunches together with a string Then they dip them in a boiling lye lixivium into which they put a little oil till they are very plump and ready to crack Jo. Bauhinus saith that they let them continue so long in the boiling lixivium quoad flaccescant tantùm corrugentur But we observed no such thing for they did not continue the bunches half a minute but presently took them out again and washed them in a vessel of fair cold water then they put them upon wooden poles for two or three days in the shade to dry and after that exposed them to the Sun taking them in in the night-time or rainy weather Cyprianus Eichovâ—ns describes the manner of making raiâ—ins in Spain thus There are saith he two sorts of Vvae passoe or raisins the one of those they call Raisins of the Sun of a blew colour the other of the Vvae passae Lixae which they call Frail or basket-Raisins In preparing the first sort they thus proceed When the bunch they design for that purpose begins to grow tipe they cut the foot-stalk of it half asunder that so the radical juyce or moisture may be at least in a great measure deteined and not pass to the grapes and so they leave it hanging on the vine Then by the heat of the Sun the grapes are by degrees dried When they are sufficiently dry they gather them and put them up in vessels The second sort they make on this fashion When they prune their vines they bind up the cuttings in faggots and reserve them till the vintage time Then they burn them and of their ashes make a lye or lixiviâ—m which they boil in great vessels and there in â—immerse the bunches of grapes one by one Afterwards to dry them they spread them upon a paved floor clean swept made for that purpose in the vineyard that so they may be the more speedily dried by the Sun-bâ—ams When they are sufficiently concocted and dried they put them up in frails or baskets After the same manner they prepare figs for to dry by dipping them in a lixivium made of the ashes of the dried branches of the figtreâ— cut off in pruning But however they superstitiously observe to make their lixivium for raisins of the ashes of branches pruned off of the vine c. I doubt not but the ashes of any wood indifferently taken would serve as well for that purpose From Frontignan we rode to Balleruch to see the hot waters which are used as well inwardly as outwardly At our being there which was in the beginning of September the water was scarce luke-warm they told us that in the Winter it was very hot The Bath is not above two flight-shots distant from the Estang and the water thereof tastes very salt and brackish whether by reason of the Seas being so near it or because the water comes from some salt mine I know not yet the latter seemeth the more probable because should it come from the Sea the water straining through so much sand would probably lose its salt by the way as we have found by experiment in England At Gabian about a days journey from Montpellier in the way to Beziers is a fountain of Petroleum It burns like oil is of a strong pungent scent and a blackish colour It distils out of several places of the rock all the year long but most in Summer time They gather it up with ladies and put it in a barrel set on one end which hath a spiggot just at the bottom when they have put in a good quantity they open the spiggot to let out the water and when the oil begins to come presently stop it They pay for the farm of this fountain about 50 crowns per. ann We were told by one Monsieur Beaushoste a Chymist in Montpellier that Petroleum was the very same with the oil of Jet and not to be distinguished from it by colour taste smell consistency virtues or any other accident as he had by experience found Upon the coast of the Mediterranean Sea in several places as at Berre near Martegue in Provence at Messina
numbers of these under-ground Trees found and digged up in Mosses and fenny Grounds where they dig for Turves In Eâ—gland also there are found of them plentifully in many places the Wood whereof they usually call Moss-Wood because it is for the most part digged up in the Mosses or moorish boggy Fens and Levels where they get Turves though sometimes it be found in firmer Grounds and sometimes in the sides of Mountains The Question is How these Trees came to be buried so deep under ground To which we may probably answer that many Ages ago before all Records of Antiquity yea before primitive Fame or Tradition itself these places were part of the firm Land and covered with Wood afterwards being undermined and overwhelmed by the violence of the Sea they continued so long under water till the Rivers brought down Earth and Mud enough to cover the Trees fill up these Shallows and restore them to the firm Land again In like manner upon the Coast of Suffolk about Dunwich the Sea doth now and hath for many years past very much encroached upon the Land undermining and overwhelming by degrees a great deal of high ground insomuch that antient Writings make mention of a Wood a mile and half to the East of Dunwich which is at present so far within the Sea Now if in succeeding Ages as likely enough it is the Sea shall by degrees be filled up either by its own working or by Earth brought down by Land-Floods still subsiding to the bottom and growing up over the tops of these Trees and so this space again added to the firm Land the men that shall then live in those parts if the World so long last will it 's likely dig up these Trees and as much wonder how they came there as we do at the present Moss-Wood And now that I am speaking of filling up and atterrating to borrow that word of the Italians the Skirts and Borders of the Sea I shall take leave to add by the by that to me it seems very probable that all the Low-Countries have been in this manner gained from the Sea For Varenius in his Geography tells us That sinking Well in Amsterdam at near an hundred foot depth they met with a Bed or Floor of Sand and Cockle-shells whence it is evident that of old time the bottom of the Sea lay so deep and that that hundred foot thickness of Faith above the Sand arose from the Sediments of the Waters of those great Rivers which there emptied themselves into the Sea and in times of Floods brought down with them abundance of Earth from the upper Grounds Which yet is a strange thing considering the novity of the World the Age whereof according to the usual Account is not yet 5600 years That the Rain doth continually wash down Earth from the Mountains and atterrate or add part of the Sea to the firm Land is manifest from the Lagune or Flats about Venice the Câ—amdrg or Isle of the River Rhosue about Aix in Provence in which we were told that the Watch-Tower had in the memory of some men been removed forward three times so much had been there gained from the Sea and many places in our own Land only it is a received Tradition and may perhaps be true that what the Sea loses in one place it gets in another That the height of the Mountains at least those which consist not of firm rocks doth continually diminish is I think very likely not to say certain I have been credibly informed that whereas the Steeple of Craich in the Peak of Derbyshire in the memory of some old men yet living could not have been seen from a certain Hill lying between Hopton and Wirksworth now not only the Steeple but a great part of the Body of the Church may from thence be seen Which without doubt comes to pass by the sinking of a Hill between the Church and place of View Hence it would follow that in process of time but it would be many thousands of years first all the Hills and Mountains except the rocky would by Floods and Shots of Rain be quite washed away and the whole Earth levelled But to return to the Trees One material Exception against our Solution still remains and that is that a great many of these subterraneous Trees dig'd up in England are thought to be Firs whereas that kind of Tree doth not at present and consequently we have reason to believe never did grow wild in this Kingdom To which I answer that this Exception would indeed much puzzle me were it certain and manifest that this is Fir-Wood which is so generally reputed from its Grain Inflammability and other Qualities But since it doth not clearly appear to me so to be I shall respite my Answer till I be fully satisfied concerning it From Bruges April 27. We went be Boat to Gauâ—t the greatest City of Flanders whence the Emperour Charles V. who was born here was wont to boast that he could put Paris into his Gane in which word there is an Equivoque Gane in French signifying a Glove Yet is the Wall too great for the Buildings enclosing much void ground In this City as in Bruges are 7 Parish Churches and according to Goluâ—â—x about 55 Religious Houses We ascended the Tower called Bellefort about four hundred Steps high and saw the famous Bell callâ—d Roland not so great as we imagined This City is well built well wall'd and trench'd about and the Inhabitants to us seemed very busâ—e and industrious From Gaunt April 30. we travelled to Brussels about thirty English Miles distant passing through Aolst a fortified Town of some note Brussels is the capital City of Brabant where the Spanish Governour of these Provinces who was then the Marquess of Caracene usually resides It is well built large and populous The Streets are broad the Stadt-house a fair and uniform Building The Common People here and also at Antwerp Lovain Mechlin and other Cities of Brabant as hath been noted by others make use of Dogs to draw little Carts and Wheel-Barrows laden with Commodities about the Streets But for the Advantage they make of them setting aside the maintaining of an old Custom I think they might as well employ their own Arms and Shoulders In the Gallery by the Riding place is an Echo which reflects the Voice fifteen times as we were assured We observed about ten distinct Reflections the Wind hindering us as to the rest At this time it happened Ludovicus de Bills to be in Town whom we visited and saw five Bodies which he had with him embalmed and preserved after his newly invented manner entire with all their Entrails and Bowels He was then going to the University of Lovain with whom he had made an agreement for Discovery of his Art and reading publick Anatomy Lectures Our next remove May 2. was to Lovain a large City but neither well built nor well kept only the Stadt-house is a
observes the Tides but it is no running water nor doth it I believe arise above the level of the Sea I do therefore shrewdly suspect for fabulous whatever hath been written of Wells remote from the Sea which in their ebbing and flowing observe its motions But for a reason of the ebbing and flowing of these Wells I must confess I am hitherto at a great loss Whereas some say that rain sinks not above a foot or two deep into the earth if they understand it of all earths it is manifestly false for that we see in Coal delfs and other mines in wet weather the Miners are many times drown'd out as they phrase it though no water run down into the mouths of their pits and shafts and in sandy and heathy grounds in the greatest rains little water runs off the land as on Newmarket-heath Gogmagogâ—hills Salisbury-plain c. and therefore it must needs sink in and out of the mouth of Pool-hole near Buxton in the Peak of Derby and other Caves in the sides of mountains in rainy seasons streams of water many times run out where in dry weather and Summer time there are none Neither is this opinion we defend any more repugnant to the Scripture then the other For whereas it is said Eccles 1. 7. All the rivers run into the sea yet the sea is not full unto the place from whence the rivers come thither they return again we grant it to be most true nay we think such a circulation absolutely necessary to the being of springs only we assert it to be performed not under ground but above that is the clouds take up water out of the Sea and pour it down again upon the earth and from part thereof falling upon and soaking into the higher grounds arise the springs But to return to Malta the Haven is very commodious and secure divided into two by a little promontory or neck of land some 1500 canes long and 380 broad upon which the new City is built Of these two that on the West side the City is called simply and per Antonomasian Marsa that is the Haven and is in length 1800 canes or poles of ten palms the cane Roman measure and is sub-divided into other crecks or sinus's That on the East-side called Marsa moscetto is as large as the other in a little Island within which is the Lazaretto near it Ships that come from infected places keep their Quarentain The new City called Valetta is divided into 20 streets 8 in length and 12 in breadth all streight Though they be not paved yet they need it not the Town being built upon a solid rock They want no uniformity but being level which the place being uneven uphill and down-hill will not admit The houses are all of stone flat-rooft and covered with plaister which is sufficient heer there falling but little rain though they be not tall yet are they neat and pleasant Upon the roofs of their houses in Summer time the people set their beds as at Aleppo and sleep in the open air The number of the Inhabitants of all ages according to a survey taken in the year 1632 was 10744 the number of houses 1891 which sum is I believe since that time much encreased Over the gate of this City leading to the land called Porta reale you have this Inscription giving an account of the first founding and building of it Fr. Jo. de Valetta sacrae Domûs Hospitalis Hierosol M. Magister periculorum annosuperiore à suis militibus populóque Melitoeo in obsidione Turcica perpessorum memor de condenda nova urbe eâque moeniis arcibus propugnaculis ad sustinendam vim omnem propulsandósque inimici Turcae impetus aut saltem reprimendos munienda inito cum Proceribus consilio Die Jovis 28 Martii 1566 Deum omnipotentem Deiparâ—mque virginem numen tutelare D. Joannem Baptistam Divósque caeteros multa precatus ut faustum felixque Religioni Christianae fieret ac Ordini suo quod inceptabat bene cederet prima urbis fundamenta in monte ab incolis Sceberras vocato jecit eámque de suo nomine Valettam dato pro insignibus in Parma miniata aureo leone appellari voluit Fr. Antonius de Paula M. Mag. invictiss Conditoris tantaeque rei monimentum P. C. Anno ab Vrbe Fundata 68. It is fortified with impregnable Walls and Bulwarks especially toward the land where one would think there are too many and yet they are still adding more Within the outmost wall or between the two walls and outworks they have enclosed a great space of void ground whether with design to enlarge the City filling that space with houses or to receive the Country-people in case the enemy should land upon the Island I know not All the walls and bulwarks are mined or vaulted underneath that so in case the besiegers should get upon them they might be blown up and rendred useless The charge of all these Walls Castles and Fortifications would be intolerable had they not stone at hand and slaves to work This City is well served with all provisions there being every morning a Market plentifully furnished with bread flesh fish poultry fruits herbs c. of the best in their several kinds and to be bought at easie rates The most considerable buildings in this City are 1. The Church of St. John Baptist patron of the Order wherein are many Chappels and Altar-pieces richly gilded and adorned Heer lie buried the Grand Masters that have been since the Order was translated hither in a vault under ground several of them having in the Church Monuments with inscriptions This Church is not yet quite finished The Castle of S. Elmo which stood heer before this City was built on the utmost point of the Promontory A strong place but of no great capacity Heer we observed the like winding ascent to the top without any steps or stairs as in the tower of S. Mark at Venice Upon the top of this Castle is constant watch and ward kept When they descry any Vessel coming toward the Island be it great or small they set up a Flag suitable to the bigness of the Vessel if two Vessels two if three three and so on according to their number signifying also by the place where they set these Flags from what quarter East West North or South such Vessel or Vessels come So that the City is presently advised what Vessels and how many are near the Port. In this Castle are imprisoned such Knights as have committed any misdemeanour and held in restraint longer or less time or further proceeded against according to the merit of their fault Before this Castle are the Granaries where the provisions of Corn for the City are kept These are nothing but Caves hewn out of the rock in the form of a Cupola or ordinary Bee-hive having each a narrow mouth above They are constantly stored with Corn enough beforehand to serve the whole City for
with a carneous the other with a blew flower From Lansa we went on the same day as far as Cau de Creux 5 leagues or 20 English miles from Bagnols Among these mountains we met with no brooks and scarce any water September 1. We intended to have seen the Coral-fishing heer but the windy weather hindred us The Sea must be very calm and smooth else it is impossible for them to fish for it It grows downward as the urinators told us under the hollow rocks and not upwards as trees I believe rather that it grows indifferently either upwards or downwards according to the situation of the rocks Near C. de Creux upon the mountains they find a kind of Selenitis which may be cut or flit into very thin plates like the common Muscovy-glass Upon the shore are thrown up conchae venerea of several sorts and magnitudes and other smal shells of affinity to them which they call Porcellane These they put in the juyce of lemons or citrons and set them out in an open bottle all night Thâ— dew mingling with the acid juyce dissolves the Porcellane This liquor they use for a Cosmetic They catch fish about C. de Creux as at Naples bâ— hanging a fire-brand or other light at the end of thâ— boat which entices the fish into the nets This day we passed by Rosas a strong Garrison Castillon Villa sacra and lay at Figera Sept. 2. We passed Crispia Basalon Argelagueâ— S. Jaâ—â— and lay at Castel-foulet 5 leagueâ— All the way we observed abundance of Pomegranaâ— trees C. Foulet is a small Garrison 3. We passed by Aulot where we saw a Bufalore of which there are divers in that Town It is a hole or cave out of which continually issues a cool air They keep bottles of wine fruit c. in a little house built over the cave The wine heer kept drinks as cool as if it were kept in ice or snow They say that it is the water running and falling down under the ground that makes these Spiracula which is not unlikely They are all on the left side of the river as you go to Vict and none on the right This day also we passed Rhoda and lay at Vict 7 leagues 4. We went to the hill where the Amethysts or Violet stones are found distant two leagues from Vict called S. Sigminont On the top of the hill is an hermitage and place of devotion where S. Sigminont a Burgundian King did penance The Amethysts are found lower in the side of the hill Viscount Jacque is lord of the Soil and whoever opens a mine pays him a pistol and an half per mensem They find the stones by following a vein of reddish or black earth or a vein in the rock so coloured They are all hexangular and pointed like crystal There are of three sorts the best are the blackest or deepest violet 2. Others are almost quite white 3. Some but very rarely are found tinctured with yellow They sometimes stick a great many together to the rock like the Bristow-diamonds but those are never good the best are found loose in the chinks of the rock in a fat yellowish or reddish earth They scrape out this earth with long narrow knives that enter into the chinks and then crumble it in pieces with their fingers to feel for the stones They are afterwards ground and polished upon leaden moulds after the same manner as crystal is First they use the dust of Smiril or Emery and at last of Tripoli All along the way to this hill we saw abundance of Arbutus and Rbus coriariorum called Rhondo In this Countrey they use not bark of Oak to tan their leather as we do but the leaves and branches of this shrub which they first bruise with a perpendicular stone and then mingle with water and heating the water luke-warm steep the skins in it 3 or 4 days In these mountains are also found Emeralds Gold and other sorts of minerals and stones but it doth not turn to account to search for them Topazes are found in a lake called the lake of Silles not far from S. Colonna near Girona They find them upon the shore of the lake At Vict there is a great Market-place and a Church at a Covent said to have been built by Charlemagne when he had discomfited the Saracens driven them out of Catalonia This night we lodged at Moia having travelled only 3 leagues We rode within sight of Montserret broken at the top into rocks standing like the teeth of a Saw from whence it took its name There is a Chappel of our Lady a place of great devotion This night we lodged at Casa della pobla a single Inn 5 leagues We came to Cardona 2 leagues All the way as we rode the rocks and stones were full of round holes just like those in the stones at Ancona in which the Pholades harbour and there is no question but these holes have been made by some animal before the stones were hardned We viewed the mountain of salt where were three Officers one to weigh the salt another to receive money and the third to keep accounts The Revenue of this Salt amounts yearly to about 30000 pieces of eight For every Quintal that is 104 pounds they pay ten reals of two sous to a real The salt is hard and transparent like crystal and when powdred fine as white as snow They hew it out with axes and mattocks and make chaplets boxes c. of it They say there is no end of it but that it reaches to the center of the earth Near the place where they work there are two caves within the rock of salt to the end of one of which they never durst venture to go Not far from this there is another mountain of salt where the salt sticks to the rocks and is most of it tinctured with red Of this red salt they make broad plates like tiles which they call Ruggiolas these they heat before the fire but never put them into it and use them to take away aches strengthen the stomach keep the feet warm c. Well heated on both sides they will keep warm for 24 hours Amongst this red salt there is a kind of Selenitis which some call Ising-glass and the Italians Gesso from the Latin woâ—â— Gypsum signifying chalk because when burnt it is turned into a white calx which naturally roches into Parallelipipedums of the figure of a Lozenge Of which sorts of stones are found in several places of our nation About these mountains of salt grows great plenty of Halimus and Limonium Cardona is a Dukedom containing 3 or 4 villages besides the town The Duke thereof is one of the richest Grandees of Spain having 3 Dukedoms 4 Marquisates 2 Earldoms c. The name of his family is Folke He lives for the most part at Madrid but sends every three years a Governour The King of Spain hath nothing at all to do with this
the other for all the rest Each City chusing a Syndic one is taken by lot to be a Deputy The six Deputies have the care and government of the Militia Upon any urgent occasion the Deputies must assemble the 3 Estates i. e. the chief of the Clergy the Nobility and the Syndics of the Cities The City of Valence is governed by six Jurats or Consuls They are taken by lot out of 6 Urns or Burses two out of each In the first Urn are the names of all the better sort of Nobility that have the title of Dons in the second Urn the names of all the lower rank of Nobility that have not the title of Don in the third the names of all rich Citizens that are not Gentlemen they must have al least 400 crowns yearly rent besides what their wives bring Besides these there is a Rationel and two Syndics changed every third year six Advocates for their lives and 40 Plebeians changed yearly The City being divided into 15 Trades or Companies each Company chuses two which make 30 the other ten are chosen two by the Rationel and eight by the six Jurats and two Syndics each chusing one Of all these Officers and the 40 Plebeians consists the Senate But nothing can be done unless there be 29 of the Plebeians present at least There is also 1. a Judge for criminal causes taken by turns out of the 3 Urns and changed yearly He hath an Advocate to assist him who is changed yearly but so that all the Advocates in the City have the place by turns and a Lieutenant criminel taken by lot out of the 40 Plebeians 2. A Mustafa who has the care of all kind of victuals corn weights measures c. He is taken by lot out of the 3 burses as the criminal Judge is and hath also a Lieutenant out of the 40. Moreover there is a Judge for civil causes taken out of the 3 Burses who has an Advocate like the criminal Judge but he cannot decide causes of above fifteen crowns The University is governed by the Town who every third year chuse a Rector that must be a Canon The other Officers are a Bedel a Sergeant and a Puntadore who is to take notice when any Professour fails to read There are eight Praepositi in this University four for Divinity two for the Canon Law and two for the Civil Law who have each 500 crowns yearly There are also four Readers for Philosophy seven for Physic one for the Greek tongue one for the Hebrew and two for the Mathematics These have but small stipends but all their scholars that come to hear their lectures pay somewhat yearly If a Professor promote 3 rich scholars that are able to pay the fees to any degree he may promote a fourth that is poor for nothing The degrees are the same with those in our Universities viz. 1. Batchelour after they have finished a course in Philosophy which degree costs about 12 crowns 2. Master of Arts which costs 80. 3. Batchelour in Divinity Law or Physic which costs 16. 4. Doctor which costs 150. They may be Masters of Arts presently after they are Batchelours if they will and in like manner Doctors In the Market at Valence and all Spain over they divide hens and chickens into pieces and sell them by quarters They make great vessels of Goats skins to put wine and oil in and lesser bottles which they call boto's The women paint laying it on so thick as if one daubed minium upon a wall No Garrison nor soldiers heer We set out from Valence and passing by Masanasse Catareggi Seille lodged at Mussafes 3 leagues Coming out of Valence we were fain to give money at 3 places to avoid searching We passed Cullera where we ferried over a great river called Xucar and lay at Gandia There is a College and an University as appears by this inscription upon the wall of the Col. Sanctus Franciscus à Borgia Dux Gandiae 4 Praepositus generalis Societatis Jesu 3 hoc Collegium hanc Vniversitatem à fundamentis erexit A. D. 1546. At Cullera the wine first began to be sweet and 3 leagues off at Gandia the Plantations of Sugar-canes began Q. Whether the nature of the soil that was fit to nourish the Sugar-canes did not also contribute to the sweetness of the Grapes At Gandia we first found raisins of the sun as they are called in England in Spain they call this kind Pansas and they seem to be the Duracinae of the Ancients They are all white round and have a tougher skin than other Grapes They gather them when fully ripe and dip them in a boiling Lixivium of water and ashes just dipping them in and taking them out again and then dry them upon boards in the sun taking them in by night or in foul weather The name Raisin comes from Racemus Figs are dried just as they are gathered not being dipt into any lixivium I went to Olives where and at Gandia are the Engines for Sugar-works the best are at Olives By the way we saw the Sugar-canes growing in several places They are planted in low wet grounds well mucked and dressed divided into beds or hillocks are furrows They cut the canes close to the roots in November and December and cutting of the slender tops which afford no good juice keep them under ground till March and then prick them into these hillocks or beds out of every talea or cut shoot 4 5 or 6 canes which will be ripe the next December The knots or joynts of the cane at the bottom are very close together scarce an inch asunder but upwards the distance is more as the cane grows slenderer Within is a white pulp or pith full of sap sweet as honey They sell them at Gandia to eat and cutting them into pieces just in the middle between two knots suck the pieces at both ends To make sugar after the canes are cleansed from the tops and leaves and cut into pieces they are first bruised either with a perpendicular stone running round as apples to make cider or olives to make oil or between two axes strongly capped with iron horizontally placed and turned contrary ways and then pressed as grapes or olives are The juice thus pressed out is boiled in three several Cauldrons one after another In the third Cauldron it becomes thick and black and is then put into conical pots which at the bottom have a little hole stopped only with course and foul sugar Mr. Ligon saith with Plantain leaves These pots are covered when full with a cake of past made of a kind of earth called in Spanish Gritto and found near Olives which is good to take spots out of clothes which cap or cover sinks as the sugar sinks Mr. Swift told me that the clay they use with us is tobacco-pipe clay or very like it and that the water in the clay served to wash down and carry away the Molossos at least the
clay helps the separation and precipitation of it These conical pots are put into other pots into which by the hole at the vertex the juice dreins down through the course sugar at the bottom It dreins so for 5 or 6 moneths in which time the sugar in the conical pots grows hard and white all the juice being either drunk up by the lute or run out by the hole at the vertex This juice is boiled again so long as it is good for any thing but at last it makes only a foul red sugar that will never be better The conical loaves of sugar after they are taken out are set to drein over the same pots for 14 or 15 days To make the sugar more white they must boil it again but about one sixth is lost every time A pound of sugar of 12 ounces is sold at Olives for three sous and a half refined for 5 or 6 sous The sugar-juice is strained through strainers of linnen as it is put out of one Cauldron into another They take it out of the first and second Cauldrons so soon as it begins to boil but in the third Cauldron they let it boil till the scum rises and then take off only the scum with a scummer and put it into a long trough to cool and when it is cool put it into the conical pots One scum rises after another in the third Cauldron The scum when it is taken off is white but turns to a black liquor in the trough They never refine the sugar more than 3 or four times They use for the refining of it whites of eggs putting in 2 or 3 dozen into a Cauldron They use but one Cauldron for refining When it is refined it grows white and hard in 9 or 10 days The juice boiled up is eaten with bread tosted as honey The juice of the refined sugar is much better than the first juice The Duke of Gandia sends presents of this refined juice to the Queen of Spain When they refine it they put in a little water into the cauldrons to dissolve it the better But for a more exact description of the whole process of the Sugar-works I refer to Piso in his natural history of Brasil and Ligon in his Description of the Barbados The Sugar of Olives is better than the Sugar of Gandia At Meuttria in Granada they also make a great deal of Sugar About Valence Gandia c. the earth is alwayes wrought and never lies fallow or idle They reckon 5 Raccolta's or crops in one year 1. Of Mulberry leaves for silk 2. Wheat and other European grain 3. Darsi i. e. Maiz or Indian Wheat 4. Grapes 5. Olives and 6. at Gandia Sugar-canes After the wheat is cut they presently sow the Indian Wheat They complained that lately for a great many years together they had very vad Raccolta's for want of rain which had almost ruin'd Spain We passed Benegana and lay at Chativer six leagues and a half Chativer is an antient Town of the Moors and was once head of one of their little Kingdoms About a league from the Town began a very remarkable Aquaeduct made by the Moors It was just over a river along the side of a hill in most places not above a yard or two under ground and had a great many funnels just like the tops of chimneys to give vent and let out the water when there should be too much The tops of these funnels were made of a red clay and pebble stones The water came almost to the top in all of them but run over but in one We passed in sight of Montesa a castle belonging to the Knights of Montesa that wear a red cross Ortenente and lodged at Beobert 6 leagues Near Alicant among the mountains there is a very good breed of Falcons In the plains near Alicant grows abundance of Gramen spartum Plinii sive sportularum Officinarum J. B. i. e. Matweed of which the frails wherein they put raisins and other fruit are made This is Spain they call Spar at Marseilles Auffe The women heerabout gather abundance of this and steep it in sea-sea-water till it be well softned Then they dry it and carry it by sea to Marseilles where they sell it at 8 escus the Milliere Every Milliere consists of 10 Packieres every Packiere of 100 Manados or handfuls Of this they make cables for ships baskets c. In this day journey we saw a great many fountains covered with long arches to hinder them from being dried up We passed Elda Novelda Aspe Clavillente Albitella and lay at Orivola 11 leagues We came to Murcia 4 leagues Near Orivola which City is an Episcopal Sea we observed many Turpentine-trees some in flower and some with ripe berries Near Elda they dig up a sort of Selenite which they burn and put into wine to clarifie it About a league from Orivola began the Kingdom of Murcia two leagues from Orivola we were fain to give money to avoid searching Murcia which gives denomination to this Kingdom is a pitiful desolate Town The Fish-market heer is shut up in cage or grate as at Genoa the people crowding about it and thrusting in their baskets as there We travelled through a miserable desolate Countrey to Mula 7 leagues We passed through Caravacca where they drive a great trade of making little crosses of silver brass wood c. After that Pilgrims Travellers c. have bought them they carry them to the Castle to touch them by a famous Cross which according to their fabulous Legend descended miraculously from heaven which forsooth infuses a wonderful virtue into them We lay this night at an odd house four leagues off Caravacca having travelled in all ten leagues We passed by Venta nova and came to Huesca 8 leagues At Huesca we first saw a yellowish white wine like sack The Kingdom of Granada began about 4 leagues before we came to Huesca The town of Huesca belongs to the Duke of Alva We passed by Basa and rested at Venta 8 leagues We travelled to Guadix an Episcopal Sea and ancient Roman Colony Upon the gates we took notice of this inscription Recepit Colonia Accitana Gemeliensis provinciae caput prima omnium Hispanicarum fidem Christi Jesu rejectis idolis evangelizantibus sanctis Torcato sociis Anno salutis 70 Pontificatùs S. Petri 37 imperii Neronis 13. Vrbs Accis patrono suo sanctissimo D. D. 1593. Honorati sunt Amici tui Deus Colonia Accitana We travelled to Granada 6 leagues distant from Desinos where we lodged the night before Heer we saw the Castle called La Lhambra the seat of the Kings of Granada Within the walls of the Castle live abundance of people which dare not live in the City for debt or other causes There is a fair Palace begun by Charles V and yet unfinished the outside of it is square but it is round within having two rows of Cloysters one above
ingenious Friend Mr. Martin Lister hath lately advised me that he hath found of them ramose and branched like trees which doth sufficiently evince they were not of that original I supposed Wherefore unless we will grant them to be primary and immediate productions of Nature as they are in the form of stones we must embrace Mr. Hook's opinion that they were the roots of some Plants though I confess I never as yet saw any Roots or Branches shaped and joynted in that manner Possibly there may be or have been such kind of submarine Plants or Roots which have hitherto escaped my knowledge For that the parts not only of Trees but also of Herbs themselves may sometimes petrifie the stalks of Equisetum which we gathered up on the banks of the River Tanaro in Piemont do abundantly convince and satisfie me And this is all that I thought needful to acquaint the Reader with by way of Preface ERRATA In the Observations PAge 210 line 31 lege extraordinariam p. 214 l. 32. mutis p. 215. l. 26. Abano l. 20 Abano p. 218. l. 17. temperandum p. 220. l. 35. far p. 222. l. 13. Montferrat p. 223. l. 22. adde us p. 235. l. 8. ripis Rheni Bononiensis l. 25. propè p. 244. l. 35. Castellaâ—â— p. 249. l. 22. Counties p. 256. l. 37. Globularia p. 257. l. 23. disjoyned p. 263. l. 7. the word being is omitttd p. 267. l. 24. Neopolitans p. 276. l. 22. dele upon p. 277. l. 1. Neopolitana l. 33. Neopolitano p. 280. l. 24. vulgari p. 282. l. 33. Messan p. 285. l. 10. dele are p. 287. l. 34. Medica p. 303. l. 20. Seniour p. 315. l. 34. inne p. 316. l. 27. one p. 318. l. 25. wild p. 343. l. 35. Bols p. 414. l. 6. di Dio p. 415. l. 20. hath p. 416. l. 2. vessels p. 418. l. 30. to is omitted p. 422. l. 16. Friburg p. 432. l. 11. Versoy p. 439. l. 30. laevi p. 446. l. 25. Sanicula p. 450. l. 2. Characias ib. l. 21. Frontignana p. 454. l. 16. 30. p. 480. l. 4. bad p. 484. l. 37. devotissimus p. 486 l. 33. las p. 489. l. 5. the. In Catalogo PAge 1. line 37. leptophyllos p. 3. l 27. fontaine que brusle ib. l. 32. Ocymi p. 10 l. 8. sterilioribus p. 18. l. 4. maritima p. 30. l. 14. racemosum p. 32. l. 40. accensusque p. 46. l. 33. Dioscoridis p. 47. l. 33. purpurea p. 56. l. 8. pro ejus scribe radicis p. 83. l. 39. dele garis p. 85. l. 13. ossiculis p. 86. l. 19. nigricans p. 8â— l. 35. Pulmonaria p. 97. l. 17. Zanclaeum p. 101. l. 23. dele tris Errata leviora in punctis literulis quae nec sensum pervertunt obscurúmve aut ancipitem reddunt nec in errores orthographicós aliosve lectores minùs peritos inducere apta sunt verùm unicuiquè non prorsus 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 manifesta Lectori benevelo vel condonanda vel emendanda permissimus OBSERVATIONS Topographical Moral and Physiological Made in a JOURNEY Through Part of the Low-Countries c. GATES FOR A LOCK TO KEEP UP THE WATER OF ANY RIVER FOR THE VSE OF NAVIGATION ETC. The fourth by some esteemed the fifth Port Town of Flanders which hath the largest and most capacious Harbour of all the rest viz. Sluys subject to the States of the United Provinces we saw not April 24. We took places in the Passage-Boat for Bruges and at a League and halfs end came to a Lock or Sluce where we shifted our Boat These Locks or Sostegni as the Italians significantly call them are usually placed at a great Declivity of any Chaâ—el or Fall of water and serve to sustain or keep up the Water as the Italian Name imports to make a River navigable which either wants Water or hath too sâ—eep a Descent There are of them in England as we have been informed upon Guildford River in Surrey and have been formerly upon the Trent They are usually thus contrived First there are placed a pair of Folding-doors or Flood-gates cross the Chanel to stop the water descending Then a competent space being left to receive Boats and Lighters c. another single Gate In each of these Gates toward the bottom is made a Hole or Window sitted with a convenient Shut or Wicket Portello the Italians call it to open and shut as occasion requires When a Vessel comes down stream to the Sostegno first they open the Portello of the foremost Gates and let the Water into the inclosed space which will necessarily rise there till it come to be equal with the Level of that above the Gates then they shut the Portello and the Stream making no resistance easily draw back the Gates and receive in the Boat Which done they open the Portello of the lower Gates whereupon the Stream above presently drives to and keeps fast the foremost Gates and the Water in the enclosed space sinks till it be even with that in the Chanel below and then they open the Gate itself and let the Boat out When a Boat goes up Stream they first open the lowermost Gate and receive it into the middle or enclosed space then withdraw or set open the Portello in the uppermost Gates letting in the water till it come to be equal with the level of that above the Gates and lastly draw back the Gates themselves and let out the Boat N. B. That both upper and lower Gates open against the Stream and are driven to and kept shut by it and that the Leaves of the upper Gates lie not in the same plain when shut but make an obtuse Angle the better to resist the force of the Water THE FIGVRE OF THE GATES AS WELL OF THE INSIDE OF THEM AS THE OVT An Engine to raise water a chain of Buckets taken out of Kirchers MVNDVS SVBTERRANEVS Near this City as Boetius de Boot who was Native thereof relates digging ten or twenty Ells deep in the Earth they find whole Woods of Trees in which the Trunks Boughs and Leaves do so exactly appear that one may easily distinguish the several kinds of them and very plainly discern the Series of Leaves which have fallen yearly These subterraneous Woods are found in those places which 500 years ago were Sea and afterwards either left and thrown up by the Sea or gained from it the Tides being kept off by Walls and Fences But before the fore-mentioned term of 500 years there is no memory that these places were part of the Continent And yet seeing the tops of these Trees do for the most part lie Eastward because as is probable they were thrown down by Western Winds which on this Coast are most boisterous and violent it will necessarily follow that in the most antient times and before all memory of man these places were Firm Land and without the limits of the Sea The Describer of Amsterdam tells us that in Friesfland and Groningland there are great
City The Supreme Power seems chiefly to rest in these Formerly none was capable of being Burgomaster except his Father had been a Freeman a year and six weeks before he was born but of late they have made a Constitution that he who will pay five hundred Gilders may be made free of the City and capable of being Burgomaster after seven years Any one may be made a Freeman for fifty Gilders but then he shall never be capable of being chosen Burgomaster The Describer of Amsterdam saith that there were in that City 18 years ago 54000 Houses whereas in Paris there were then but 46000 which is a thing by no means to be credited The Militia of Amsterdam consists of 54 Companies divided into five Regiments each containing eleven Companies and every Company consisting of 150 men so that the whole amounts to 8250. Two Companies watch every night for the guard of the City June 16. we took Boat for Vtrecht where we arrived at six hours end This is a great Town and the head of a Province environed with a thick and high Wall and a deep Trench The Streets and Buildings far short of the Elegancy Beauty and Cleanliness of those in Holland much like the Houses and Streets of our English Towns Water runs through many of the Streets in deep Chanels The Domo or Cathedral Church hath a great tall Tower ascended by 460 Steps from whence we had a fair Prospect of the City and Countrey round about Here is an University erected by the States of the United Provinces in the year 1636. Who were the Professors in each Faculty at the time of our being here the following Series Lectionum will acquaint the Reader Series Lectionum in Acad. Ultrajectina Anno Christi M.DC.LXIII Priore Semestri MANE HORA OCTAVA D. Antonius Matthaeus J. V. D. Professor diebus Lunae Martis Institutiones Jovis autem Veneris Selectiores Pandectarum titulos interpretabitur D. Regnerus à Mansvelt Philosophiae Doctor Logices Metaphysices Professor diebus Lunae Martis Logicâ—m cum quaestionibus Metaphysicis Jovis vero Veneris Naturalem Theologiam docebit HORA NONA D. Cyprianus Regnerus ab Oosterga J. V. D. Professor Codicem Academicâ Forensi explicatione explanabit D. Henricus Regius Eques Auratus Medicinae Professor Primarius suos Medicinoe Medicationumque libros interpretabitur diâ—bus Veneris Stirpium demonstrationes in Horto Publico instituet D. Daniel Berckringer L. A. M. Philosophiae practicoe atque Eloquentioe Professor diebus Lunae Martis Institutiones suas Ethicas Jovis verò Veneris Politicas cursoriè interpretabitur HORA DECIMA D. Gisbertus Voctius SS Theologiae Doctor Professor diebus Jovis Veneris perget in explicatione Politicae Ecclesiasticoe diebus verò Lunae Martis in Explicatione prioris partis Locorum Communium D. Isbrandus de Diemerbroeck Med. Doct. ac Medicinae Practieae Anatomes Professor diebus Lunae Veneris in Academia explicabit Historias morborum capitis quibus absolutis perget ad Historias morborum thoracis diebus Martis Jovis in Nosocomio decumbentes aegrotos inviset eorumque examen medicationem docebit ac praxeos specimina exhibebit Demonstrationes vero anatomicas in theatro publico instituet quum subjecti humani copia dabitur HORA UNDECIMA D. Andreas Essenius S. Theologiae ac Philosophiae Doctor illius Professor diebus Lunae Martis Jovis Controversias tractabit ad selecta loca V. T. Veneris quoque Historiam Ecclesiasticam saeculi Christiani duodecimi enarrabit D Johannes Georgius Graevius Philosophiae Doctor Historiarum Eloquentiae Professor diebus Lunae Martis Jovis explicabit C. Taciti Annales die verò Veneris Ciceronis orationem pro Milone A MERIDIE HORA PRIMA D. Paulus Voet J. V. D. Professor Juris Pandectas continuatâ serie interpretabitur D. Johannes Leusden L. A. M. Linguae Sanctae Professor diebus Lunoe Martis Jovis explicabit Psalmos Hebraioos diebus verò Veneris interpretabitur Rabbinum aliquem vel selectos difficiliores 564 versus Psalterii in quibus omnes ejus voces pleraeque radices V. T. continentur Post explicationem textualem semper addet quaestiones Philologicas concernontes Phiâ—ologiam Hebraicam Controversias Ritus Judaeorum quidem eo ordine quo eoe post invicem describuntur in Spicilegio Philologico HORA SECUNDA D. Franciscus Burmannus SS Theologiae Doctor Professor diebus Lunae Martis Euangelistam Matthaeum cum necessariis quoestionibus observationiobus quâ poteriâ— brevitate enarrabit diebus verò Jovis Veneris Oeconomiam salutis humanae sub Foedere Vet. ac Novo tractabit D. Johannes de Bruyn L. A. M. Physicae Matheseos Professor p. t. Academiae Rector diebus Lunae Martis in Pbysicis lectionibus perget Jovis verò Veneris continuabit explicationem fundamentorum Mechanicorum De Heer Hugo Ruys sal Woensdaeghs en Saterdaeghs van Elftot Twaelf uyren inde Fortificatie continueren The Garrison consisted of eight Companies of Soldiers whereof one was English The Government is by an upper and under Scout and four Burgomasters whereof two new chosen yearly June 18. we went by Boat to Vianen passing over a Branch of the River Rhene called the Lech This is a privileged Town wall'd and trench'd about subject to the Lord of Brederode Here we noted an Engine or wheel for the weaving of Inkle and Tape which moves many Shuttles at once The same day we travelled on to Leerdam three hours distant from Vianen a small inconsiderable Town belonging to the Prince of Orange June 19. we passed through Asperen a small wall'd Town and further on ferried over the River Wale Vahalis in Latine to a pretty pleasant wall'd Town called Bommel standing in an Island Here lay in Garrison four Companies of Soldiers whereof one of Scotchmen Not far from hence we ferried over the Mose and passed by a strong Fort nigh the Water called Crevecoeur and not much further another called Engelen and after four hours came to the Bosch Hertogenbosch the Dutch call it and the French Bois le duc i. e. Sylva Ducis Before we entred the Town we passed through a Water and over two Draw Bridges This Place is situate on a Hill in the midst of a low fenny Level of a great extent the greatest part whereof is at least now was covered with Water so that the only Avenues to the Town are upon artificial Causways It is encompassed with a strong Wall and a deep Trench At one end stands a Citadel strongly fortified which commands the Town By reason of its Situation and Fortifications one would judge this Place impregnable yet hath it been taken in the late Wars At our being there were kept in Garrison for the Defence of this important Strength 21 Companies of Foot and four Troops of Horse In the Quire of S. Johns Church are painted the Arms of many of
of Brick though the Houses be but low having streight Streets and a square Piazza It is well fortified with a strong Wall and Trench but most considerable for its Citadel which for Greatness Strength and Beauty gives place to few that we have seen Within it is a stately Palace of the Princes who for the Defence and Security of this City maintains here a Garrison of 1000 Soldiers About ten or twelve years since this Place was possessed by the Spaniards When the Peace was concluded between them and the Hollanders it was agreed that the Duke of Newbergh should have Gulick and Berg and the Marquess of Brandenburgh Mark and Cleve The main Trade and Employment of this Town is making of Malt. June 30. we proceeded on to Collen some seven hours distant from Gulick by the way passing through a little walled Place called Berchem A great part of this days Journey was through pleasant Woods We observed by the way-side and in the Woods and Hedges as we went Mezereon Germanicum Mollugo montana latifolia ramosa Pulmonaria maculosa Galeopsis sive Vrtica iners flore purpurascente majore folio non maculato and among the Corn Vaccaria Ger. Collen though it gives Title to an Archbishop who is one of the Electors is a free City of the Empire and one of the greatest in Germany The middle part of it is well built of Stone wherein are two fair and large Piazza's the Skirts meaner and of Wood. The Walls of the City are of Stone very tall but not proportionably thick and covered with a Tectum Round the Walls without is a pleasant Walk of Trees two deep Trenches and at convenient Intervals strong Bulwarks Within the Wall are enclosed 300 Acres of void ground not built upon I mean planted with Vines of the Grapes whereof we were told many hundred Tuns of Wine are yearly made In the Domo or Church of S. Peter are preserved in a golden Chest the Bodies as they would have us believe of the three Wise men of the East that came to worship our Saviour commonly called the three Kings of Collen Melchior Gaspar and Balthasar To this Church belong 54 Canons Nobles and 8 Canons Presbyters By these 62 with the Dean of the Cathedral who hath two Votes in the Election and the two Consuls regent of the City who have four is the Archbishop chosen who is not allowed to continue in the City at any time for above three days together The Government of the City is by six Consuls or Burgomasters who continue in Office during life yet but two only in power yearly seven Scabins and 150 Senators When a Burgomaster dies the Senate chuses another into his Place The Senators are chosen by the several Companies of the City and continue during life only fifty are in power yearly so the Power revolves to the same every third year The Scabins are put in by the Prince and continue during life The main body of the Citizens is of the Roman Religion yet are there a good number both of Lutherans and Reformed or Calvinists The Lutherans are allowed a Church within the Walls the Reformed are forced to go cross the Water a mile out of town to Church In one of the Churches of this Town are preserved the Bones of those 11000 Virgins which accompanied S. Vrsula to Rome and in their return here suffered Martyrdom From Collen we went up the Rhene in a Boat drawn by Men which brought us the first day to a small Village called Vidich By the way we found growing among the Corn in great plenty Delphinium suaplici flore purpuro-caeruleo vulgare and Nigella â—rvensis in some barren Grounds near the River ' Stoechas citrina Germanica latiore folio J. B. Next morning we passed Bonna a pretty walled Town with a handsom Piazza Here the Elector of Collen hath his Palace and usual Residence This night we lodged at a pitiful poor walled Town called Brisaca where we first began to have Feather-Beds laid upon us instead of Blankets and Coverlets July 6. we passed by Rineck Castle on our right hand and about a mile from Brisaca came to Andernach a walled Town of some note subject to the Archbishop of Collen Over against this Town is Hammerstein Castle belonging to the Archbishop of Triers Then we passed by two Castles of the Earl of Weets one on the right hand on a high Rock well built with a Cloister in it Two leagues from Andernach we passed by Engers and this night lodged at Coblentz a considerable City belonging to the Archbishop of Triers called in Latin Confluentes because situate at the Confluence of the Rivers Moselle and Rhene Here is a fair Stone-Bridge of 13 Arches over the Moselle which notwithstanding its diminutive Name is no small River Here is also a Bridge of Boats over the Rhene to a strong Castle called Hermanstein situate on a high Rock under which near the River is a beautiful Palace of the Archbishop of Triers whose Name is Carolus Caspar Not far hence is Helfenstein Castle near which springs an acid Water Another Well of this nature there is at Antonistein three or four hours distant from Andernach belonging to a Cloister of Carmelites who sell the Water sealed up in Bottles A third of greatest note at Zwolbach four miles off Frankfurt All these Waters are sold to the Towns and Countrey about and commonly drunk mixt with Wine to which they give a pleasant tast and purging quality I cannot say as Blondel affirms of them that upon mixture with Wine I saw them smoke or found them actually hot Indeed I was not careful to observe these particulars July 7. we passed by Lodesheim Town and Castle on the left hand and Capelle a Castle of the Bishop of Triers on the right then a large Island in the middle of the Rhene next Rens a small walled place belonging to the Archbishop of Collen on the right hand and a little further Browbach and a Castle above it About four hours from Coblentz Boppaert a walled Town of some note on the right hand and not far thence a Castle called Bornholm on the left We rested this night at a Village called Hertznach July 8. in the morning we came to a pretty pleasant wall'd Town called S. Gower a mile distant from Hertznach under the Lantgrave of Hessen who lives in a fair Castle built on a Rock above the Town On one of the Towers of the Wall by the Rivers side is fastned a brass Ring given by the Emperor Charles V. which is put upon Strangers Necks and then they are obliged to drink Wine else they are sprinkled with Water The Magistrates and greatest part of the Inhabitants of this Town are of the Reformed Religion yet have both Lutherans and Papists their Churches Just without the Walls over against S. Gower is a Town and Castle called Wellnich Somewhat further on the right hand is Wesel Town and Castle of
the greatest part of the Citizens are Lutherans who have five Churches The Roman Catbolics are allowed the free Exercise of their Religion and have within the City two Cloisters of Men and one of Women The Reformed had formerly a Church within the Walls afterwards that being taken from them they had one just without which being burnt down whether by Accident or Malice their Church is now a good distance from the Town The English Church used in Q. Maries days goes to decay The English House is made a Granary or Store-house The Countrey hereabout is pleasant and the Ground rich We found growing wild Gramen amoris dictum Ischaemon vulgare Portulaca sylvestris and in some Hedges Alsine baccifera which it was not my fortune in all this Voyage to meet with any where else July 17. we left Frankfurt taking the Post-Coach for Frankenthal After one half-hours riding we entred into Pine-Woods the first we met withal They reach'd almost to our Lodging this night which was at a Village called Geirsheim three German miles from Frankfurt July 18. at a little walled Town called Kernsheim we ferried over the Rhene and at six miles end came to Worms a great old City but meanly built and in a decaying condition It seems formerly to have been richer and more populous The Bishop is chosen by the Canons of the great Church being 20 in number All the Magistrates are Lutherans After we had passed Worms one hours riding brought us to Frankenthal or as we usually pronounce it Frankendale a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine situate in a Level by the Rhene more considerable for its Strength than Greatness The Houses are low built the Streets broad and streight The Wall Mounts and Out-works neatly kept in good repair The Garrison consists of five Companies whereof two are Citizens There are in it three Churches one Almagne one Low-Dutch and one French July 20. we travelled from Frankendale beside the Rhene through Oberskeim a small walled Town to Spier two miles and an half distant Spier though it hath a Bishop yet is it a free City of the Empire and governed by its own Magistrates of considerable Strength and Greatness The Houses are most old-built of Timber rather vast than handsom or convenient We could not learn that there was any considerable Trade driven here so that were it not for the Imperial Chamber which draws much Company hither we believe it would soon grow poor and infrequent enough The Romish Religion prevails most yet have the Lutherans their Church In the Cathedral Church are the Monuments of several Emperors and Bishops who lie interred there The Imperial Chamber consists of 36 Assessors and a chief President appointed by the Emperor besides whom there are other three Presidents chosen by the Emperor out of the Delegates Every Elector of the Empire and each of the ten Circles send two Delegates or Assessors There is another Chamber of like power at Vienna These Courts determine all Controversies arising between the several Princes and States of the Empire by majority of Vote The Subjects also of many of the Princes may appeal from their own Princes to this Court but it is not prudent nor safe for them so to do unless they first withdraw themselves out of their Territory Some Princes as the Count Palatine have Jus non appellandi July 21. we returned a little backwards and crossed over the Rhâ—ne to Manheim a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine situate just in the Angle made by the Neccar and Rhene meeting and strongly fortified The Houses in the late Wars were most of them beaten down but now they are rebuilding them apace the Prince having given the Town great Privileges to invite Strangers to come and inhabit there At the time of our being there his Highness was building a new Citadel which was like to prove a strong Piece It wanted not much then of being finished Who it was that first advanced this place to the dignity of a City and fortified it with Walls Ditches and Bulwarks this Inscription over the Gate towards the Neccar will acquaint the Reader Quod felix faxit Jehova Fredericus IIII. Elector Palatinus Rheni Dux Bavariae E veteri Paga Manhemio Ad Rheni Niâ—rique confluvium Justa spatiorum dimensione Nobilem Vrbem molitus Vallo fossa muro clausit Portam bonis civibus aperuit Anno Domini MDCX. July 22. From Manheim we rode to Heidelberg just before we entred the Town passing a wooden Bridge over the Neccar covered over with a tectum as are also many of the great Bridges in Switzerland to preserve the Timber as I conceive from the injuriâ—s of the Weather Heidelberg though none of the greatest Cities yet is the chief of the Palatinate and for its bigness populous which is much considering the Devastations made by the late Wars in this Countrey The Houses are most of Timber yet handsom and in good repair which argues the Inhabitants to be industrious and in a thriving condition It is situate on the right bank of the River Neccar under Hills of considerable highth by reason of which it cannot be made strong though it be encompassed with a double Wall and Trench In this City are five Jurisdictions 1. Aulica under which are all the Princes or Noblemen of this Jurisdiction the Marshal of the House is President 2. Cancellaria under which are all the Councils and other Officers as Advocates Doctors of Law c. 3. Bellica or the Soldiery the General is their President 4. Academica in which the Rector magnificus presides and 5. Civica The Members of each Jurisdiction may refuse to be judged by any but their own Judge before whom the Plaintiff must implead them according to the Maxim in Law Actor sequitur forum rei The City is divided into four Quarters and governed by Praetor and Burgomasters It can raise two Companies of Foot and one of Horse The Lutherans are permitted the Exercise of their Religion here and have lately built them a Church There are also Roman Catholics who have a Church without the Walls About the middle of the ascent of the Hill called Koningsthall stands the Castle where the Prince keeps his Court a stately Pile and of great capacity encompassed with a strong Wall and a deep Trench hewn out of the Rock which upon occasion may be filled with Water Over the Gate leading into the Palace is a Dutch Inscription signifying the building of it by Ludovicus V. in the year 1519. It is not all of one Piece but since the first Foundation several Buildings have been added by several Princes One part is called the English Building Under one of the Towers stood the great Tun which almost filled a Room It held 132 Fudders a Fudder as we were informed being equal to 4 English Hogsheads The old Tun is taken in pieces and there is a new one in building by the Princes Order which is
the Antiquities of Augusta Rauracorum formerly a great City now a Village called Augst not far distant from Basil The great Church or Cathedral at Basil was built by the Emperor Henry II. who married Cunigunda the Daughter of an English King S. Pantalus an English man was the first Bishop here The graver sort of Citizens and Magistrates wear Ruffs and Steeple-Caps The Professors and Ministers wear the same Caps and Ruffs and besides short Gowns which reach little lower than their Knees Many of the Countrey-Boors wear Straw-Hats The Women wear their Coats very short and some of them little round Caps on their Heads very like the young Scholars Caps in Cambridge but less and a Tin-Girdle about their Wasts We saw in this City Dr. Fel. Platerus his Musaeum or Cabinet wherein there is a good Collection of Minerals Stones Metals dried Fishes and other natural and artificial Rarities gathered by Tho. Platerus the Father and Fel. Platerus the Son and disposed in a good Method the Names being set to each one Here and at Zurich are Sermons every day in the week at several Churches David George that monstrous Fanatic died in this City at whose Death there happened a great Tempest of Thunder and Lightning and a Thunder-bolt brake into his House About Basil we found growing wild beside what we had before met withal Scrophularia Ruta canina dicta Passerina Tragi among the Corn. Phalangium parvo flore ramosius Blitum minus album J. B. in fimetis Cymbalaria Italica hederacea in muris urbis ad portam quae Argentinam ducit Stoebe major calyculis non splendentibus in marginibus agrorum muris passim toto itinere à Frankendaliâ ad Basileam usque Polium montanum Lavendulae folio Consolida media Genevensis J. B. Cneorum Matthioli seu Thymelaea minor Cordi But if any one desires a more particular account of what Plants grow wild about Basil C. Baâ—thinus his Catalogus Plantarum circa Basileam nascentium will give him full satisfaction August 10. from Basil we set forward for Zurich At the end of one Dutch mile we passed Augst supposed to have been Augusta Rauracorum There we view'd the Ruines of an antient Building judged by Amberbachius to have been an Amphitheater Next we rode fast by a wall'd Town on the Rhene subject to the Archduke of Inspruck On the Hills hereabout we first saw Fir-trees growing wild Then we passed through Bruck a pretty little walled Town having one handsom Street well built with tall Houses of Stone and Fountains in the middle and lodged at the Baths of Baden six miles distant from Basil This day we first took notice of the little green Tree-Frogs The Baths here are said to be sixty in number but small the Water is very hot Baden is a walled Town seated on the side of a Hill by the River Limagus about half an English mile distant from the Baths Here the Delegates of the thirteen Cantons meet and sit The poor People put a Cheat upon Strangers bringing them to sell as they pretend fossile Dice which they say they dig out of the Earth naturally so figured and marked But I am well assured such as they brought us were artificial Dice and if they dig'd them out of the Earth they first buried them there themselves From Baden Aug. 11. we rode along by the Limagus on one hand and fair Vineyards on the other to Zurich Zurich is pleasantly situate at the end of a Lake call'd Zurich-Sea scarce so big as Basil but I think more populous The River Limagus which runs out of the Lake divides it into two almost equal parts which are joined together by two Bridges one very broad for Carts and Horses to pass over The Houses are built of Timber with Clay-Walls handsomly painted many of them four or five Stories high The Streets are narrow but well paved with Flints and great Pebbles This City is as well fortified as the Situation of it will permit besides the Wall being encompassed round with good Earthworks and Trenches after the modern fashion The River Sele runs by and gives defence to it on the South side and a little lower empties itself into the Limagus The Citizens are given to Merchandise all very busie and industrious They either are rich or at least so esteemed and therefore envied by their Neighbours of the Romish Religion Here are no Guards of Soldiers at the City-Gates no Strangers examined or searcht either at coming in or going out We observed the colour of the Water of the zurich-Zurich-Sea to be greenish and well approaching to that of Sea-water Afterwards we found the Water of all the Lakes and Rivers near the Alpes to be of the same colour at which we were not a little surprised For we were wont to attribute that colour in the Sea-water to the mixture of Salt that is in it whereas the Water of these Lakes and Rivers discovers to the Tast nothing of Salt or brackish But afterwards considering that these Waters did consist for the most part of Snow dissolved and that Snow is supposed to contein good store of nitrous Salt we thought it not altogether improbable that this Colour may be owing to the nitrous Particles remaining in the Water though they be not copious enough to affect our Tast and it would be worth the while to distil good quantities of this Water to see whether it would leave any Salt behind That these Lakes and Rivers do consist for the most part of Snow-water it is manifest for that upon the Mountains excepting the lower parts of them no Rain falls in Winter-time but only Snow with which the higher parts of them are covered to a great thickness for at least six moneths in the year and for that the Rivers that flow from the Alpes run lowest in Winter and abound most with Water in the Summer-time so that sometimes they overflow their Banks in the hottest moneths of the year and when no Rain falls as my self can testifie concerning the River Rhodanus because the Sun at the season melts the Snow upon the Mountains Hence it appears that their Opinion was not so absurd who attributed the yearly Increase and Overflowing of the River Nilus to the dissolution of the Snow upon those Mountains where it hath its first Rise Though I do not think this to be the true Cause partly because that part of the Earth where those Mountains lie is so hot by reason of its Situation under the direct and sometimes perpendicular Beams of the Sun that it 's not likely any Snow should fall much less lie there chiefly because Travellers generally agree that in most parts of that Climate where those Mountains lie there are at that time of the year great falls of Rain to which therefore the Overflowing of Nilus is more probably attributed The Government of this City is by a greater and a lesser Council The lesser Council consists of 50 viz. 24 Tribunes or
a good fence or rampart to secure the City and other included Islands against the raging waves of the Sea in stormy weather It is discontinued by seven say some say others by five breaks or apertures and those not very wide ones which they call Ports or Havens and by which the Lagune communicate with the Gulf. Of these Inlets two only are deep enough to admit any vessels of considerable bulk or burthen viz. those of Malamocco and Lio. Into or not far from the Lagune most of the great rivers of Italy empty themselves v. g. Padus now call'd Po Athesis now Adige Meduacus major now Brenta Meduacus minor now Bacchilione Tiliaventum now Taiamënto Liquentia now Livenza Silis now Sile Anassus now Piave which especially in time of flouds bring down with them from the mountains a great deal of earth and silt which will its probable in process of time fill up the Lagune and make dry land of them For I believe at the first building of Venice no part of them lay bare at low water as now there doth Gianotti saith that antiently the City was ten miles distant from the firm land the Lagune extending as far as Oriago which as some think was so called quasi Ora lacus and and that all that space between Oriago and Fusina where they now imbark that go from Padua to Venice had been added to the firm land notwithstanding all the endeavours the Venetians could use This City was first founded according to the best Authors about the time that Attila with his Hunnes invaded Italy burning and destroying all before him by some families who seeing no end of these irruptions of barbarous nations sought refuge for themselves in these desolate Islands in the year 456 or thereabouts Others make the first beginning of it to have been before that time in the year 421 or 423. But though in the times of former irruptions many of the neighbouring people fled hither to shelter themselves from the present storm yet I believe they did not think of settling themselves heer or making these Islands their fixt habitation and uniting themselves into one City till the expedition of Attila Whenever it began it hath continued a Virgin-City having never been ravished nor attempted by any Enemy since its first foundation for at least 1200 years which is more than any other City of that antiquity so far as I have read or heard can boast of Yet is it not at present nor ever was it fortified or so much as walled about neither indeed doth it need it being sufficiently strong by its â—ituation alone which is such that it is not likely for the future ever to be taken unless the Sea quite leave it and the Lagune become dry land conjoined with the Continent For by Sea great ships can come no nearer than the haven of Malamocco and those apertures in the Lido where boats and lesser Vessels may enter are defended by strong Forts and Castles besides that every tide the Chanel doth so vary that without the guidance of an expert Pilot they will not be able to find the way in but be in danger of being stranded upon the flats This City is in circuit taking in the Giudecha eight Italian miles Viewing it from S. Mark 's tower we judged it to be about the bigness Amsterdam was then of It is divided into two parts by the Grand Canale which passes through the middle of it in the form of the letter S. It is also divided into six parts or regions called thence Sestieri three on one side the Canale viz. Castello S. Marco and Canareio and three on the other side viz San Paolo Santa Croce and Dorso duro It conteins 70 Parishes though some make them 72 67 Monasteries whereof 33 of Freres and 34 of Nuns according to a survey taken in the year 1581. since which time I believe the number hath been increased According to the same survey there were then in the City of Noble Men 1843 Women 1659 Boys 1420 Girls 1230 Citizens Men 2117 Women 1936 Boys 1708 Girls 1418 Servants 3732 Maids 5753 Artisans Women 31617 Men 32887 Boys 22765 Girls 18227 Beggars Men 75 Women 112 Monks 945 Nuns 2508 Priests 516 Poor of the Hospital 1290 Jews 1043 The Sum total is 134871. Sansovinus reckons the number of souls in his time to have been 180000 but I suppose he takes in Muran and the other Islands which in this survey are left out I am not ignorant that several late writers make the present number of Inhabitants to be at least 300000 but I believe they speak at random and by conjecture upon no good grounds as I have been often told that there are in Paris a million and half of people whereas it is well if there be half â— million there being no reason to think that the Citâ— is much increased since Sansovinus his time I find the Sum total of the number of males to exceed the total of the number of females in this survey by above 3500 which comes near to the account of the excess of males in England given us by Capt. Graunt in his Observations upon the weekly Bills of Mortality in London And I doubt not but if exact observations were made in other places there would be found the like proportion between the number of males and females born into the world in hot countries as in cold So that from this Topic the Asiatics have no greater plea for multiplicity of wives than the Europeans Little chanels of water cross and divide the city into many Islets and may rather be called the Streets of it than those narrow Lanes or Alleys Calle they call them through which you pass on foot from one place to another By these chanels you may convey your self and goods from any one place of the city to any other by boat which is the only way of carriage except mens shoulders there being neither coach nor litter cart nor wain horse nor ass used or so much as to be seen â—eer For passage on foot there are built about 450 bridges cross the chanels most of them of stone and of one arch among which the most famous is that over the Canal grande called Ponte di Rialto and for passage by water there are a great number of Gondalo's and other boats some say eight some ten some twelve nay some fifteen thousand but I believe all is conjecture and they were never numbered The Buildings are generally tall and fair the Palaces of Noblemen thick set all over the City but especially upon the Canal grande which though not vast are handsom and well-built The foundations of the houses are great piles or masts driven into the ground as at Amsterdam The Arsenal is said to be three miles in circuit they that speak modestly allow it but two well stored with arms ammunition and all provisions for war Heer the Galleys are made and laid up of which the Republic hath they say at least 200.
Foscaro was made Duke there were three more created anew so that then the whole number was nine three of whom took care of the Church and its Treasures three of the Legacies of the three Sestieri on one side the great Chanel and three of the Legacies of the three Sestieri on the other side In the year 1509. when the Republics Armies were broken and routed at Addua by Lewis XII King of France they were constrained to create six for mony conferring that honour upon such as would lend the Commonwealth such a certain sum These Procurators have power to compel Heirs to perform the Wills of the Testators They wear Ducal habits and carry servants about with them and have the precedence of all other Magistrates In processons the Counsellors and three Capi de Quaranta take place of them They have either an habitation assigned them or 60 Ducats per annum allowed They all enter into the Council of Pregadi but not all into the Council of Ten but only nine chosen by the said Council three for a Procuracy They are not capable of any other Magistracy except that of Savio grande and the Giunta of the Council of X. When there is a Captain of the Armata or a Proveditor of the Camp to be chosen there is a Law made in the Pregadi that any one that is Procurator may obtain that Dignity They cannot go to the Great Council but only in the Election of the Duke which license is then granted them by an especial Law They were wont anciently upon all those days the Great Council met during all the time the Council sate to continue in the Court of the Palace and never to depart thence till the Great Council was risen that if any unexpected or suddain accident should happen they might be ready to remedy or assist And this perchance was the reason that it was forbidden them to go to the Great Council But in our time this usance is not observed because of that quiet and tranquility the Commonwealth enjoys Which is such that no man thinks there can any accident happen in the City which shall require the presence of the Procurators more is one place than in another There is no Magistracy or Dignity in the City of much desired by the Gentlemen as this of Procurator Yet I think that it hath lost much of its ancient reputation For whereas formerly it was not wont to be granted to any but ancient men and great repute in our times we have seen many adorned therewith who were neither of mature age nor great esteem and credit Of the other Officers and Magistrates whereof this Republic hath good store I shall say nothing they belonging rather to the administration of Justice and particular civil affairs then the Government of the Commonwealth Only it is worth the notice taking that they have so many Offices divided among the Gentlemen to busie and employ the greater number of them that so having something to entertain their time with they may not be at leisure to think upon innovating in the Government or any way design and practice against the constitution of the Commonwealth to the disturbance of the peace The Gentlemen while they are in the City wear black Gowns with narrow sleeves and caps without which habit they never appear in the streets or any public place In the Piazza of S. Mark that side next the Great Council-chamber is appropriated to them to walk in where no others mingle with them This walk or rather the company of Gentlemen walking together there they call the Broil Broglio The principal diversion of the Gentlemen Citizens and Strangers is to walk in this Piazza The present Citizens of what quality or estate soever have no share or interest at all in the Govrernment of the Commonwealth Probable it is that when the Creat Council was shut up as they phrase it that is determined to such a number of Families excluding all the rest that all the Citizens of any quality were therein comprehended because before that time the Government having been common to all it is not likely the present establishment would have taken place without commotion and disturbance if there had been a considerable number of Citizens of fashion and interest left out Formerly this honour hath been given to many Citizens of eminent merit Lately since the Wars with the Turks in Candy for 100000 Ducats any Citizen might be created Nobleman By which means the State raised millions of Ducats there having been more then fourscore Families advanced to that Dignity They put not weapons into the Citizens hands but chuse rather to make use of mercenary Souldiers in their Wars There is no Law that prohibits any Citizen to be chosen to any place or Office by the Great Council nor doth there need it For that they are as sure not to be cosen as though there were such a Law the interest of the Nobility being as strong a bar to such a choice as Law would be And yet Gianotti saith that some have attained to be nominated and balloted in the Great Council The air notwithstanding the situation of the City is held to be very good and healthful and which is more agreeable to people of all countreys and tempers We never enjoyed our health better nor had better stomachs to our meat in any place beyond the Seas then we had heer Heer we first saw the Ludicrum called by some Diabolus in carcâ—re from a little hollow glass-image made like the Picture of the Devil though a glass-bubble would serve the purpose as well or better which being put into a cylindrical glass-tube full of water they could make ascend descend or rest in any part of the tube at pleasure The manner thus They prepare an icuncula or glass-bubble hollow and having in the heavier end of it a little hole of such a poise as just to ascend and swim in water and having put it into a glass-tube stopt close or sealed at one end and almost full of water they clap their hand on the mouth of the tube and press down the air upon the superficies of the water The water being thus prest presses upon the air in the icuncula or bubble which giving place part of the water thrusts into it by the little hole The bubble thereupon becoming heavier sinks in the water Then taking up the hand and removing the force the air in the icuncula or bubble by its elastic power expands it self and expelling the water again the icuncula or bubble ascends and so by proportioning the force they can make it not only ascend and descend from top to bottom but rest at what point of height or depth they please Of this and other ludicrous experiments concerning the motion of these bubbles I shall not think much heer to set down what Doctor Cornelius of Naples hath delivered in his Progymnasmata Physica Epist de Circumpulsione Platonica I was saith he informed by Lud. Casalius of
it of fresh water To expedite the making the lixivium they take some of the boiling lixivium out of the Cauldrons to which purpose there is a pipe comes out of the Cauldron in the region of the lixivium whereby they let out the boiling lixivium into a trough and this together with cold water they pour upon the ashes to promote the separation of the salt When the oil is boil'd away they let all cool and taking the cremor or crust of Sope off the superficies of the liquor spread it upon a floor and smooth it and so let it dry in a bed of more then a bricks thickness When it is dried they cut it long ways and cross ways into oblong parallelograms or the figure of oblong bricks there being nicks in the borders of the beds on purpose to direct the instruments to cut it This done they pare these pieces from any impurities that may adhere to them from the bottom of the bed For the beds are all strowed with Lime-dust to hinder the sticking of the Sope to the floor and run them over a plane to smooth them These large pieces they subdivide into lesser and seal them with a Seal The reason why they mix Kelp with the Beriglia is because Beriglia alone would make the Sope too soft and Kelp alone too brittle To colour the Sope green they take the juyce of Beet a good quantity and put it into the Cauldron with the lixivium and oyl The Germans will have it thus coloured and perhaps the Nitre which is in this juyce may add some vigour to the Sope. The fire is continually kept burning and so the liquor boiling till the operation be finished OF PADUA PAdua Patavium watered by the Rivers Brenta and Bacchilio is an ancient City supposed to be built by Antenor after the taking of Troy by the Grecians That Antenor came into these parts Livy who was native of this City witnesseth in the very beginning of his History in these words Jam primum omnium satìs constat Trojâ captâ in caeteros saevitum esse Trojanos duobus Aeneâ Antanoréque vetusti jure hospitii quia pacis reddendaeque Helenae semper auctores fuerant omne jus belli Achivos abstinuisse Casibus deinde variis Antenorem cum multitudine Henetûm qui seditione ex Paphlagonia pulsi sedes Ducem Rege Pylaemene ad Trojam amisso quaerebant venisse in intimum maris Adriatici sinum EuganeÃsque qui inter mare Alpesque incolebant pulsis Henetos Trojanósque eas tenuisse terras And that he founded Padua Virgil saith expresly Aen. 1. Antenor potuit mediis elapsus Achivis Illyricos penetrare sinus atque intima tutus Regna Liburnorum fontem superare Timavi Vnde perora novem vasto cum murmure montis It mare praeruptum pelago premit arva sonanti Hîc tamen ille urbem Pà tavî sedésque locavit Teâ—crorum genti nomen dedit armáque fixit And Martial uses this compellation to Valerius Flaccus the Poet a Paduan Antenoreispes alumne laris And yet some there be who will have Altinum to be the City of Antenor and Padua to have been built by one Patavius a King of the Veneti It was celebrated of old time for the chastity of its women according to that of Maritial Vda puella legas sis Patavina licet After the decay of the Roman Empire it was ruined and destroyed by Attila restored again by Narses then sackt and burnt by the Lombards and after various successes in the time of the Emperor Otho I. it obtained its liberty and was governed as a Commonwealth by its own Magistrates till first Ezzellinus the tyrant and not long after him the Carraresi made themselves Lords of it from whom the Venetians extorted it in the year 1405. though they pretend that the Padunas voluntarlly delivered themselves up to them It is enclosed with two walls the interior called Antenors wall though of a far later make is about three miles in circuit The exterior of great strength with bastions and other fortifications and deep trench before it for the most part filled with water about 6 miles in compass built by the Venetians when Leonardo Loredano was Duke in the time of the League of Cambray when the Pope the Emperor the Kings of France and Spain the Dukes of Mantua and Ferrara joyned themselves together against the Venetians as appears by this Inscription over the Gate of All-Saints Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium Asylum cujus agrum fertilitatis sumen natura esse voluit Auteâ—or condidit Senatus autem Venetus his belli propugnaculis ornavit Leonardo Lauredano Duce Venetorum invictissimo enjus Principatus varias fortunae vices excepiens quà m gloriosè superavit It was stoutly defended by the Venetians against the Emperor Maximilian besieging of it with an Army of 80000 men Anno 1610. Though it be large in compass yet is it neither rich nor populous the number of the inhabitants according to the largest reckoning amounting to no more then 38000 souls which I believe exceeds the just sum at least 10000. The territory of this City is a large plain or level and the Soil very rich and fertile so that it is come to be a Proverb Bononia la grassa ma Padoa la passa Venetia la guasta Their bread is esteemed as good as it is cheap according to that other Proverb Pan Padoano Vin Vicentino Trippe Trevisane Putana Venetiana Bread of Padua Wine of Vicenza Tripes of Treviso and Courtesans of Venice are the best in their kinds No Wood is permitted to be planted for the space of one mile from the wall round about that in case it should be besieged in a time of War the Enemy might find no shelter among the trees and this is called the Wast and is reserved only for corn There are very few Medows or Pastures near the Town which is the reason that Milk is dear heer They make bread for the poor of Mayz or Indian Wheat which they call formentone and Sorgum whereof they plant good store heerabout The most considerable buildings in the City are 1. The Town-hall 256 feet long and 86 feet wide according to Schottus by some thought to be the largest room in Europe but we judged it to be less then Westminster-Hall underneath it are Shops so that you ascend many steps to go into it it is called Palazzo della Ragione because the Courts of Justice are held there 2. The publick Schools 3. The Chruch of St. Antony called the Santo 4. The Chruch of S. Justina with the Benedictine Cloyster 5. The Palace of the Arena or Amphitheater 6. The Castle of the Magazines of Corn and Ammunition 7. The Bridge called Ponte molino where there are about 30 water mills together upon the River Brenta 8. The Palace called the Court of the Capitaneo 9. Antenor's Tomb as they would have us believe The particular descriptions of all which
Only it is worth the notice taking that when they were set at liberty and absolved of their Oaths of Allegiance by Catharine relict of Galeazzo Visconte first Duke of Milan they did of their own accord deliver up themselves to the State of Venice for which reason they enjoy great privileges and immunities The Theater of the Academy called the Olympici is a pretty building and deserves to be remembred The Inhabitants of this City drive a great trade in breeding and feeding of Silk-worms and in winding twisting and dying of silk The Wines of this Territory are very rich and gustful especially that sort called Dolce piccante Hence we made an excursion of about 6 miles to see the famous Cave of Custoza said by some to be seven miles in length but more truly by Jo. Georgius Trissinus who himself measured it and gives an account of it in a Letter to Leander Albertus no more then 650 perches which make about 4000 feet in length 490 perches or 3000 foot in breadth and about three miles in circuit We took it to be nothing else but a Cave left from the digging of stone as the same Trissinus by sufficient arguments proves it to be 1. Because the ancient buildings of Padua and Vicenza are of the same kind of stone 2. Because to support the roof they have every where at distances sometimes greater sometimes less left huge pilasters of the quarry of 3 perches square apiece of which pilasters in the whole cave there are thought to be about 1000. 3. There are some great square pieces of stone cut round about in order to taking them up and carrying them away 4. There remain manifest prints and tracks of cart-wheels whereas no man living can remember that ever cart went in there We observed many Bats clinging to the roof and walls of this Cave and in some standing waters a kind of fish or rather insect which they called Squillae Venetianae i. e. Venice-shrimps but they are of that sort which naturalists call Pulices marini or aquatici i. e. Sea-fleas or water-fleas At this Village we saw the so much talked of Ventiduct belonging to one Tridentus a Nobleman of Vicenza serving to cool the rooms of his Palace in Summer time From a large high-rooft subterraneous grot or cave there are Chanels cut out of the rock to the Palace When they would have a cool air in any of the rooms they shut up a gate in the cave and open a door at the end of the Chanel which lets in the fresco every room having a hole in the wall or pavement to admit it On a stone there is this inscription Franciscus Tridenteus Vicentius JCtus Hierosolymitani equitis filius gelidi venti flatum in caverna Cubola vocatâ spirantem in aedes proprias per hanc erypto-porticum deduxit ad temporandum ardentes aestivos calores tum cohibendo tum relaxando novo atque mirabili artificio per cubicula quaeque ducendo quae pro libitu suo refrigerare ealefacere valet ita ut ejus Villa ingenio diligentiâ impensâ ac aemulatione ornatior effecta inter regia ornamenta connumerari possit Anno MDLX Aetatis suae XXII From Vicenza we journeyed to Verona a fair large populous City pleasantly situate upon the River Athesis which is heer of a great breadth over which there is one very fair stone-bridge esteemed the handsomest Bridge in Europe besides 3 others of less account The City is 7 miles in circuit excluding the Suburbs which are very large too and thought to contain 70000 souls It is strong by situation and extraordinarily fortified with walls bastions towers bulwarks and deep ditches full of water drawn from the River Athesis round about and strengthened with 3 Castles that of St. Peter that of St. Felix and so that it is lookt upon as impregnable Heer we saw several Cabinets or Collections of natural and artificial rarities 1. That of Seignior Mapheus Cusanus an Apothecary wherein where shewn us many ancient Aegyptian Idols taken out of the Mummies divers sorts of petrified shells petrified cheese cinnamon spunge and Mushromes A Jasper stone and an Agate having crystal within them Stones having upon them the perfect impression or signature of the ribs and whole spines of fishes A Catapulta of brass found 1656. about Trent Several curious Entaglia's or stones engraved with figures of heads c. An ancient Roman gold Ring A good collection of ancient Roman Coins and Medals as well Consulary as Imperial besides modern medals A stone called Oculus mundi n. d. which when dry shews cloudy and opake but when put into water grows clear and transparent An account of this stone may be seen in the History of the Royal Society brought in by Dr. Goddard Among his Medals we observed a Maximinian and a Dioclesian with this on the reverse inscribed Verona Amphitheatrum 2. That of Seignior Muscardo a Gentleman of Verona a civil and obliging person He also hath a very good collection of ancient Roman medals among which he shew'd us an Otho of Gold and told us that those of brass were all counterfeit there having never been any found of that metal Many sorts of lachrymal Urns and Lamps great variety of Shells and some fruits and parts of plants petrified Several exotic fruits and seeds the ores of metals and minerals Gems and precious stones in their matrices as they grew Lapis obsidianus and a kind of stone called Adarâ—e But because there is a description of this Museum published in Italian I shall not descend to more particulars but refer the Reader thither 3. The Museum of Seignior Mario Sala an Apothecary containing only some reliques of Calceolarius his Museum printed many years ago The Amphitheater of Verona called now the Arena is a very stately and capacious one and seem'd to me when it was entire not to have been much inferiour either for beauty or greatness to that of Titus at Rome The outward wall or circle is all gone save a little piece from whence we may make an estimate of the heighth and beauty of the whole The remainder setting aside this exteriour circle is kept in good repair by the Veronese the Arena of it is 34 pertiche long and 22 ½ broad and compassed about by 42 rows of stone benches one above another after the manner of stairs upon which 23000 persons may sit commodiously As it is imperfect it seemed to us one of the most pleasant and goodly spectacles for a structure of that nature that ever we beheld He that desires a more full and particular description of it may consult Schottus and the Antiquities of Verona written by Torellus Saraina a Veronese as also Lipsius his Book de Amphitheatris As for government and subjection this City underwent almost the same changes with Padua and Vicenza and did also voluntarily deliver it self up to the Venetian Government Heer are very good white Wines especially that sort
they call Garganico The air is clear and healthful but must needs be sharp in Winter time being so near the high mountains among which Baldus is famous for the great variety of choice simples growing thereon of which Joan. Pona an Apothecary of Verona hath written a particular Catalogue and description Which Book and thereupon the Paduan herbarists making simpling voyages yearly thither hath gotten Baldus its reputation for I am very confident that many hills about the Alps produce as great variety and as choice plants as that Not for from Verona is the Lago di Garda anciently called Lacus Benacus which furnishes the City with plenty of excellent Fish especially trouts Sardinie and a sort of Fish of the Trout kind called Carpione peculiar to this lake Those we saw were not a foot long of the fashion of Trout We travelled from Verona to Mantua 24 miles by the way passing through some large Villages but no considerable Town Six miles short of Mantua at a place called Marmirola we viewed an elegant palace of the Dukes richly furnished and adorned with pictures and statues The City of Mantua is of great antiquity strong by situation as standing in the middle of a lake and well fortified Schottus saith that it is 4 miles in circuit hath 8 gates and about 50000 souls It seemed to us a great City but not answerably populous having not yet recovered it self of the losses it sustained when it was miserably sackt by the Emperor Ferdinand II. his Army in the year 1630. A little out of the City stands a pretty house of the Dukes called Palazzo del Te wherein there is a square room having the roof arched round in form of Cupola called the Giants-hall so contrived that if two stand in the opposite corners one laying his ear to the wall may hear what the other whispers with his face to the corner which he that stands in the middle of the room or in the corner on the same side shall not The like room we were told there is in the Duke of Parma's Palace at Caprarola Our whispering place in the Cathedral Church of Glocester is of somewhat a different make In a Village near Mantua called Ande now Petula was born the Prince of Latine Poets P. Virgilius Maro In this City are two Societies of Virtuosi Academies they call them the one stile themselves Accesi the other Timidi This City hath according to the fate of her neighbours undergone several changes of Government In the year 1328. Lewis Gonzaga by the favour of the people made himself Lord of it from whom the present Duke is descended In the year 1433. John-Francis Gonzaga was created Marquess of Manina by the Emperor Sigismund IV. In the year 1530. Frederic Gonzaga was created Duke of Mantua by the Emperor Charles V. The Dukes yearly revenue is said to be 400000 crowns according to the account we had of it in particulars somewhat less viz. the mills pay 4000 crowns per annum The Jews who are about 6000 in number and wear no badge of distinction give 20000 crowns per annum The rest of the Citizens of Mantua 70000 crowns The Countrey yields 60000 pistols and Montserrat 13000 in all 386000 crowns the year Yet is the present Prince through ill husbandry not proportioning his expences to his income become very poor being indebted to the Venetians as Leti saith four millions of crowris To advance his Revenue at the time of our being there he was put to that pitiful shift of debasing his coin so that none of his money would pass further then his own Territory His name was Carolus Gonzaga II. since dead and his Son Caroulus Ferdinandus succeeds him in his estates There are besides of this Family 4 or 5 small Princes feudatory of the Empire but Sovereign Lords having Jura Regalia in their petty States viz. The Princes of 1. Novellara 2. Bozolo 3. Gustalla 4. Sabionetta in which the male line is failed 5. Castiglione We were told that these Princelets were obliged to attend the Duke of Mantua's Court three months in the year The Dukes Council of State or Privy Council consists only of six of the chief Nobility In these parts all the children of the common people have equal shares of their Parents Estates at least their moveables The wife when her husband dies carries her dowry back with her if she dies first then her children if she leaves any divide her dower equally among them If she die childless her dower is divided half goes to her husband and half to her next kindred If a woman hath had children by one husband and he dying she marries again and hath children by her second husband her estate is divided into equal parts one moiety goes to her first husbands children and the other to her second 's We took boat for Ferrara which brought us first into the lake then into the chanel of the River Mincius which runs out of the Lago di Garda called in Latine Lacus Benacus at a strong Fort of the Venetians called Peschiera and coming to Mantua spreads it self into a lake of 5 miles long At 16 miles end we came to a Bridg and Sluce at a place called Governo where we entred the River Po going down stream we passed by Ostia 10 miles distant from Governo and 10 miles further down Massa both on our left hand and 7 miles below Massa came to Stellata a large Village on our right hand under the Pope Heer the Territory of Mantua ended Eight miles beyond this place we left the River Po at a Village called Il Ponte and struck up an artificial Chanel of 4 miles long which brought streight to the Gates of Ferrara This City is very considerable as well for its greatness as its strength It is said to be about 7 miles in compass and besides the advantage of its siruation in a fenny level it is strongly fortified with walls an bulwarks and surrounded with a broad and deep trench full of water so that I look upon it for a City of that bigness as the strongest in all Italy It had formerly a Prince of its own but is now with all its territory subject to the Pope From Ferrara we went with the Procaccio or Courrier to Bologna shifting our boat at a place called Mal-Albergo some 17 miles from Ferrara where we went up into a higher chanel viz. the Rhenus Bononiensis and passing through 9 locks or sostegni we arrived at Bologna distant by water from Ferrara 45 miles A great part of the Countrey we passed through between Ferrara and Bologna is a perfect level and fenny ground much like to the Isle of Ely in England Bononia is a large City of a round figure and yet 7 or 8 miles in circuit The houses not tall fair portico's on each side the streets convenient to walk in as well in Summer to defend one from the scorching beams of the Sun as in Winter to shelter form
between every two Bastions an half Moon It is well furnished round about with great Guns ready mounted Within the Castle is a water-mill which they told us was driven by water which springs up within the Castle-walls Schottus saith that the circuit of the whole Fortress besides the trenches is 1600 paces The Garrison at our being there consisted of about 600 Souldiers and the Castellana or Governours name was Don Balthasar Markadel We saw the Museum or Gallery of Seignior Manfredus Septalius son to Ludovicus Septalius the famous Physician wherein we took notice of a box with a multitude of Looking-glasses so disposed as by mutual reflexion to multiply the object many times so that one could see no end of them the best in this king that I have any where seen A plain plate of glass with so many spherical protuberances wrought upon it that if you lookt through it upon any object you saw it so many times multiplied as there were protuberancies or segments of spheres upon the plain of the glass Likewise a Speculum of the same fashion by looking upon which through the former you see your face so many times multiplied as to be equal to the product of the sum of the protuberancies of the one glass multiplied into the sum of the protuberancies of the other Several concave burning Specula of metal and we saw the experiment of burning by reflexion Several Engines counterfeiting a perpetual motion of which afterward we understood the intrigue Several automata and clocks of divers fashions among the rest two of a cylindrical figure which moved without weight or spring only by being placed upon an enclining plain their own weight was the spring of their motion Pieces of Amber with Flies Grashoppers Bees enclosed in them Pieces of Crystal with Grass Moss Leaves Insects c. enclosed in them A large piece of Crystal with a drop of water in it and in that water a bubble of air which as you turned the stone moved upwards A little Cornelian with a great quantity of water enclosed in it Pictures made of feathers by the Indians A great collection as well of ancient as modern coins and medals Several Entaglie Camei Nicoli The Pietra imboscata of Imperatus having the lively signatures of herbs and trees upon it Of this sort is found plenty about Florence where they polish them and make Cabinets of them Perfumed knives Persian Arabic Chinese and Japonic manuscripts and a China Calendar in wood Great variety of shells Telescopes and Microscopes of his own making A large piece of the minera or matrix of Emeralds with the stones growing in it Many musical instruments and divers sorts of pipes of his own invention Ancient Rings Indian Scepters and Bills made of stone Several things petrified Chymical Oils extracted by himself without fire The Skeleton of a Morsses head Divers and very large Rhinocerots horns Gazells horns and an Unicorns horn Curious pieces of turned work of Ivory very fine and subtil Several pieces of past and coloured glass Several pieces of most transparent Crystal-glass excelling that of Venice made and invented by himself Factitious China or Porcellane of his own invention and making hardly to be distinguished from the true But there being a printed Catalogue of this Cabinet set out by the owner himself I refer the Reader thither for further satisfaction In this City they work much in Crystal making drinking-glasses and other vessels cases for tweezers seals and an hundred pretty knacks of it they also engrave figures upon it They grind and polish it with a brass wheel upon which they put the powder of Smiris mingled with water and after to smooth it they use the power of Sasse-mort which is a stone they find in the River fast by This stone by lying in the water by degrees dies from a heavy pebble first becoming light like a pumice and afterward if it lie longer in the water crumbling to dust Most ordinary stones by lying in this water or where the water sometimes comes will as they told us die in this manner excepting the clear pellucid pebbles which are immortal We left Milan and began our journey to Turin We rode all along upon the bank of the River Navilio passing several small Villages leaving Biagrassa a Town of some note a little on our left hand and lodged at Bufalora 22 miles distant from Milan Heer in the hedges we found Fumaria bulbosa flore purpureo albo now in flower as also Aristolochia rotunda in flower We passed through Novara a strong Town belonging to the Spaniard 10 miles distant from Bufalora and rode on 10 miles further to Vercelli belonging to the Duke of Savoy a large Town but neither strong nor well peopled This Town was delivered up by the Spaniard to the Duke when Trin was restored to the Spaniard by the French We were told that the Citizens pay ten times more to the Duke then they did to the Spaniard and for that cause such as are able leave the City and remove to other places We travelled as far as a Village called Sian 18 miles passing by a large borgo called S. German Being stopt by the waters we were constrained to stay all night at Chivas no more then 8 miles forward We got safe to Turino passing by the way many waters two we ferried over viz Orco and Stura Turin anciently Augusta Taurinorum seated upon the River Padus or Po is no large City but by reason the Duke of Savoy usually keeps his Court there frequent and populous The ancient buildings are not better than those of our English Towns but there is one long street of new buildings tall and uniform and about the midst of it a large square Piazza having on each side a fair Cloyster very handsome and sightly At one end of this street is another Piazza before the Dukes Palace a fair building but not yet finished Heer is a Citadel with 5 bastions serving as well to bridle as defend the Town Heer we met with some of the Protestants of the Valleys of Lucern and Angrona who told us that by the intercession of the Cantons of Zurich and Bern the Duke hath at present made an accord with them permitting them still to enjoy the liberty of their Religion They dwel in 14 pagi or Villages have no Town are in number about 15000 souls and of them about 2000 fighting men These are divided into 14 Companies under so many Captains among whom Jean Janneville is noted for a valiant man and a good Souldier The Papists call these men Barbetti and Genevrini They are the only Protestants in Italy and have maintained the purity of their Religion all along these 1200 years They run over the mountains like chamois never shooting if themselves may be believed but they hit They boasted to us that in the late War they had not lost above 40 or 50 men and had killed 500
Ligorn Livorno called anciently Portus Liburnus some 10 or 12 miles distant This Town is not large and but low built yet very pleasant and uniform having streight streets and a spacious Piazza in the middle It stands in an open level without mountain or hillock within 5 miles of it on any side It is well-fortified with walls and bastions and a deep trench round except on the Sea-side and secured with a good Garrison being one of the most considerable and important places in all Tuscany Since the Great Duke made it a free port it hath encreased mightily in trading and riches great numbers of Merchants from all Nations resorting hither and most of the bargains for the commodities of the whole Levant being heer driven The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Strangers and Jews which last are esteemed one third of the whole number of people and thought to amount to 5000 persons and upward Before these privileges granted to Ligorn when it was thin of Inhabitants it was accounted a very bad air and an unhealthful place by reason of the fens and marshes adjoyning but now since it is become populous the multitude of fires as is supposed hath so corrected the air that people enjoy their health as well and live as long heer as in any other Town or City of Italy Near the Haven is a very magnificent statue of Ferdinand I. Great Duke about the pedestal whereof are 4 brass Statues of slaves chained of a gigantick bulk and stature The haven within the mole is but small but heer is good riding for Ships without The Great Duke in Lent time uses to make his residence in this Town heer being great variety of good fish taken in the Sea near hand and to be sold at reasonable rates all other provisions being dear enough In Ligorn we saw workmen filing of marking-stones called in Latine Lapis galactites morochthus in Italian Pictra lattaria which they told us were found at Monte negro and thereabout some 5 miles distant from Ligorn and from hence transported into France Spain England the Low Countreys c. Of the dust and filings of this stone they make the body of power for hair as the workmen informed us Of Plants we observed about Ligorn Kali geniculatum majus in the marshes by the Sea-side Absinthium Seriphium Gallicum Polium montanum album C. B. Medica doliata spinosa Medica cochleata Spinosa Med. marina on the Sands Caltha arvensis C. B. Hyacinthus palustris vernus flosculis fimbriatis albis Hyacinthus comosus Ger. Lathyrus flore coccineo Vicia luteo flore sylvestris Ochrus sive ervilia Dod. these three last among the Corn as also Gla. diolus Narbonensis Lob. Telephium scorpioides Anguill in arenosts Phyteuma Monspeliensium Cichorium pratense vesicarium Col. Medica Scutellata J. B. Iris humilis violacea latifolia eadem flore albo in rupibus ad mare Herniaria hirsuta Allii species an Ampeloprassum Ferrum equinum Lob. Orchis macrophyllâ—s Columnae Trifolium fragiferum sive vesicarium floribus nitidis rubellis flosculis velut in umbella parva dispositis Chrysanthemum Bellidis folio Hort. Pat. inter segetes Buphthalmum Cotulae folio C. B. an Chrysanthem Valentinum Clusii Anthyllis leguminosa flo purpureo Cruciata minima muralis Col. Peplus minor J. B Ageratum sive Balsamita mas A sort of Draba with a white flower Hieracium perfoliatum besides many which we had found in other places as that sort of Dorycnium which J. Bauhinus calls Trifolium album rectum hirsutum valdè Carduus Chrysanthemus Narbonensis which Lobel calls Eryngium luteum Monspeliensium Heliotropium majus Carduus solstitialis Ger. Cichoreum pratense verrucarium in arvis passim Blattaria flore luteo Convolvulus minimus spicifolius Lob. Melissa sylvest hirsutior minùs odorata Dorycnio congener planta Rapistrum monospermon Ammi vulgare Passerina Tragi Sideritis vulgaris Aster luteus foliis ad florem rigidis Stoebe major caliculis non splendentibus Between Pisa and Ligorn we noted Leucoium bulbosum majus polyanthemum Ger. in the marshes near Pisa plentifully Aristolochia clematitis Aster conyzoides nobis dictus Asparagus altilis Gramen supinum aculeatum J. B. Besides these we observed some which grow wild in England but more rarely as Leucoium marinum majus folio sinuato Orchis fuciflora galeâ alis herbidis Hyacinthus stellaris vernus minor Eranthemum sive flos Adonis Trifolium pumilum supinum flosculis longis albis P. B. Ferrum equinum Germanicum siliquis in summitate C. B. At Ligorn finding a good Dutch Vessel ready to set sail for Naples we put our selves aboard her The wind not favouring us we spent five days in this passage before we reached our Port. The Captain of the Ship told us that heerabouts usually in the forenoon the wind blows from the Land and in the afternoon from the Sea so that it is Easterly in the forenoon and Westerly in the afternoon We also observed in this Voyage that about Sun-set the wind fell so that soon after Sun-set there was little or no wind stirring and likewise several days about Sun-rising we had but little wind In our return backwards from Messina to Naples and from Naples to Ligorn we observed that the wind for the most part sate contrary to us And the Sea men told us that this was general in Summer time So that you have a much quicker passage from Ligorn to Naples and thence to Messina than backwards We observed also that the wind follows the Sun so that every morning we could make some use of the wind to sail with but in the afternoon none at all which agrees exactly with our Captains observation the land lying Eastward and the Sea West Our Captain also told us that when they made a Voyage from Holland to the West-Indies they sailed down the Coast of Africa as far Southward as the place in the West-Indies whither they intended to go lay and then steer'd directly Westward both the wind blowing constantly from the East and the Sea also running the same way Which relation of his concurring with the general vogue of Mariners if true doth much confirm the opinion of the diurnal motion of the earth When they return backwards from thence into Holland they go round about the Bay of Mexico and up a good way northward and then strike over to Europe the water being reflected as he said that way and the wind also often blowing that way Naples lies by the Sea side under hills in form of a Theater for its figure and situation much like to Genua but somewhat bigger and much more populous so that before the last great Plague which swept away as we were credibly informed at least 120000 souls one might well reckon the number of Inhabitants to have been about three hundred thousand The circuit of the walls is not above seven Italian miles but it hath large Suburbs The Town is well built of stone the
very strong hold 4. Bitonto 5. Terra di Mola 6. Molfetta 7. Monopoli 8. Trani 9. Giovenazzo 10. Biseglia 11. Bitetto 12. Conversano 13. Gravina 14. Monoruino 15. Polignano or Putignano 16. Ruvo 9. ABRUZZO CITRA 5. viz. 1. Chieti 2. Sulmona 2. Benevento 4. Borrelle 5. Ortona 10. ABRUZZO ULTRA 5. 1. Aquila 2. Atri 3. Campli 4. Civita di Penna 5. Teramo 11. CONTADO DI MOLISI 4. 1. Boiano guardia 2. Alferes 3. Isernia 4. Trivento 12. CAPITANATA 13. viz. 1. Monte S. Angelo 2. Ascoli 3. Bovino 4. Ferensuola 5. Larino 6. Lucera 7. Lesina 8. Salpe 9. Vieste 10. Volturara 11. Termole 12. Sancto Severo 13. Manfredonia in all about 151. But many of these are pitiful poor desolate places inferiour to the better sort of our English Villages Every hearth fires they call them in this Kingdom of Naples pays 15 Carolines the year to the King which is about six and six pence or seven shillings English The number of fires in the whole Kingdom is 475727 besides 5804 which are exempt from payment In which number are not comprehended the fires of the Albanese and Illyrians commonly called Sclavonians who pay no more then 11 Carolines the year are numbred every year and are permitted to remove from place to place in the Kingdom The number of these extraordinary fires is 4451. So then the whole sum of the Hearth-mony is 719095 Ducats 4 Carolines from which deducting what is to be abated for places privileged and exempt from payment that which comes clear into the Kings treasury will be 654873 Ducats and six Carolines The Adogo or tax which feudatories pay to the King in lieu of personal service amounts in the whole Kingdom to 120568 Ducats They also pay Reliefs after Deaths one half of a years Revenue Besides these there are abundance more taxes and gabels paid by the Subject an account of all which in particular may be seen in Scipio Mazzella his Description of the Kingdom of Naples written in Italian and printed 1601. So that one would think it were impossible for poor Pesants to pick up so much money as they pay to the King only and yet I believe the gabels and payments are since that time much encreased The wholesum of all the Kings Entrata or Revenue yearly accruing from this Kingdom then was 2996937 Ducats 3 Carolines and 14 grains While we staid in this City we were present at the meeting of the Virtuosi or Philosophic Academy which is held weekly on Wednesdays in the Palace of that most civil and obliging noble and vertuous person the Marquess D' Arena There were of the Academy but 15 or 16 admitted but at the meeting were present at least threescore First there was shewed the experiment of the waters ascending above its level in slender tubes upon which when they had discoursed a while three of the Society recited discourses they had studied and composed about particular subjects which were appointed them to consider the week before and after some objections against what was delivered and reasonings to and fro about it the company was dismist A man could scarce hope to find such a knot of ingenious persons and of that latitude and freedom of judgment in so remote a part of Europe and in the communion of such a Church They are well acquainted with writings of all the learned and ingenious men of the immediately preceding age as Galileo Cartes Gassendus Harvey Verulam and of the present yet surviving as Mr. Boyle Sir George Ent Dr. Glisson Dr. Willis Dr. Wharton Mr. Hobbs Mr. Hook Monsieur Pecquet c. We were very much pleased and satisfied with the conversation and discourse of some of them Amongst the rest Dr. Thomas Cornelius hath made himself known to the world by his Writings We went by water to Pozzuolo anciently Puteoli there so soon as we were come into our Inn many Sea-men and Countrey people came about us some bringing Shells others Hippocampi dried others ancient medals and Entaglie others pieces of coloured glass raked out of the Sea as they told us about Argenteria Near this Town are several arches of stone 13 peers reaching a great way into the Sea Some are of opinion that this was the beginning of Caligula's Bridge over this Bay and that from the end of this pile as far as Baiae the rest of the Bridge was made of vessels locked together and fastened with Anchors on each side But more probable it is that this was intended for a mole or peer to secure the Harbour and for Ships to lie behind because upon every peer a great stone perforated stands jetting out of tie vessels unto That it was an ancient Roman work the manner of the Arches the figure of the bricks and the stateliness of it do sufficiently argue From Pozzuolo we passed over the Gulf to Baiae where are so many Antiquities that to discourse fully of them would require a volume alone And others having written at large of them both in English and Latine I shall not so much as mention any thing save only the sweating vault being one of the grots called the Bagne de Tritoli It is a long and narrow passage like the entry into some room the upper part whereof is so hot that a man cannot endure to walk upright being then in danger to be stifled by the hot and suffocating vapour with which the upper part of the Vault is filled the lower part though not cold is yet tolerable Indeed one would not think there could be so great a difference in so small a distance He therefore that goes in there is necessitated to stoop low for if you do but hold up your hand it sweats suddenly We observed that of the lower part of this vault where it was cool the sides were a firm stone but of the upper part where it was hot a soft friable yet unctuous yellow clay It seemed to us to have a mixture of sulphur and fixt salt deliquated in it but we made no trial of it by fire or otherwise Where this stratum or region of clay begins there precisely doth the heat begin so that where the region of clay goes lower there you must stoop lower to avoid the heat In this hot steam there is a watery vapour conteined as appears by the drops notwithstanding all the heat condensed on the sides of the vault as on an Alembic head As we returned we viewed the new Mountain called by some Monte di cenere raised by an Earth-quake Septemb. 29. 1538 of about an hundred foot perpendicular altitude though others make it much higher according to Stephanus Pighius it is a mile ascent to the top and 4 miles round at the foot We judg'd it nothing near so great The people say it bears nothing nothing of any use of profit I suppose they mean else I am sure there grows Heath Myrtle Mastich-tree and other shrubs upon it It is a spungy kind of earth
All the ground of this fancy as I conceive is because this fish hath a bunch of cirri somewhat resembling a tuft of Feathers or the tail a Bird which it sometimes puts out into the water and draws back again We were much surprised to find of this shell-fish in these Seas so southernly and far from the scene of the Bernaclefable I shall now set down what plants we found about Catania and Syracusa About Catania Scammonea Monspeliacoe affinis Park Plumbago Plinii Aganus castus which two we observed also in many other places Cruciata marina Anonis marina procumbens flore luteo jam descripta Sedum minimum non acre totum rubrum flore hexaphyllo purpureo Upon Mount Aetua we found Tragacantha C. B. Towards the top of the Mountain we observed Barberry-trees growing plentifully which is a rare shrub in hot Countreys and which we found no where else in Italy or Sicily At Messina they shewed us for a rare plant the common Goose-berry bush About Syracusa Thymum Creticum Ger. Origanum flore albo capitulis squammatis rotundis Verbascum 4 Matthioli The same kind of Melissa we found about Messina and have already described Teucrium Baeticum Jacea lutea capitulis spinosis Lagopus quaedam procumbens spicâ longiore Anonis purpurea minima supina non spinosa Many others we might doubtless have found had it been safe for us to have searched the Rocks near this City OF MALTA THE Island of Malta is 20 miles long 12 miles broad and 60 miles in circuit distant from the primo terreno or nearest part of Sicily 60 miles from the Cape of Calipia anciently called Promontorium Mercurii the nearest point of the Continent of Africa 200 miles as divers of the most skilful and experienced Pilots did affirm to Abela for an undoubted truth from the Cape of Spartivento in Italy but 190. So that upon account of vicinity it is rather to be attributed to Europe than Africa especially if we allow Sicily to have been of old time united to and so part of the Continent The reason why others make it a member of Africa is because the present Inhabitants of the Countrey speak a kind of Moresco or Arabic The old City called Città notabile situate about the middle of the Island hath 35 degrees 15 minutes of Northern latitude and the longest day there is of 14 hours 52 minutes I am not ignorant that Heylin and others who reckon this among the Isles of Africa place it nearer the Coast of Barbary assign it less latitude and allow the longest day no more then 14 hours but I do in these and other particulars follow the more accurate observations of Johannes Franciscus Abela a learned man and native of this Island in his Malta illustrata written in Italian and published in Malta Anno 1646. in folio The whole Island from the shallowness of its soil there being in few places above two foot depth of of earth before you come to firm stone and from the lowness of its situation not much elevated above the level of the water and having no considerable hill in it seems to have been in the most ancient times nothing else but a great Rock wholly overwhelmed and covered with the Sea especially if we consider the multitude of Sea shells of all sorts Sharks teeth vertebres of Thornbacks and other fish bones petrified found all over the Island even in the highest parts of it and most remote from the shore For that these were formed by some plastick power in the stone-quarries being nothing else but the effects or productions of nature sporting her self in imitation of the parts and shells of these animals I can hardly be induced to believe nature which indeed is nothing else but the ordinary power of God not being so wanton and toyish as to form such elegant figures without further end of design than her own pastime and diversion But a very likely thing it is that the Sea being shallow above this Rock for some ages before it came to be uncovered there should great beds of Shell-fish harbour and breed in so convenient a place and the water leaving them their shells remain and petrifie I confess its hard to imagine how the carcasses of so many Sharks should come to be lodged heer as by the multitude of teeth that have been for so many years past and are still daily digg'd up we must needs grant unless perchance they remain of the heads of such Sharks as were caught and eaten by the Fisher-men who it is likely after the discovery of this Rock frequented heer and made it a station for fishing before it came to be inhabited To this difficulty Mr. Steno returns answer in these particulars 1. That such Sharks or Sea dogs have each of them 60 teeth and more and that all the time they live they breed new teeth 2. That the Sea agitated by the winds is wont of protrude thosebobodies it meets with towards some one place and there heap them together 3. That Sharks swim in great troops or sholes and consequently that the teeth of many of them may have been left in one place 4. That in the Malta earth besides these Sharks teeth are found also sundry Cochle-shells so that if the number of teeth should encline a man to ascribe their production to the earth on the other hand the make of the same teeth and the abundance of them in every animal and the earth like the bottom of the Sea and other marine bodies found in the same place do favour the contrary opinion The soil notwithstanding the rockiness and shallowness of it hath been by the Ancients celebrated for fertility Fertilis est Melite sterili vicina Cosyroe Insula Ovid. Fast But undeservedly if we understand it of Corn for there is not much Wheat sown heer and that we saw upon the grounds was but thin and slight And though Barley be their chief crop and of which the Countrey people make their bread yet have they not near enough of that to serve the ordinary uses of the Inhabitants so that they are forc'd to fetch most of their Bread-corn out of Sicily The main commodities which the Island yields wherewith the Inhabitants drive a good trade and inrich themselves are 1. Cumin-seed which they call Cumino agro or sharp Cumin of which are gathered about 3000 Cantares yearly one Cantare being equal to 116 pound weight English 2. Annise-seed which they call Sweet-cumin of which are gathered and transmitted into Foreign parts 1000 Cantares yearly These seeds are sold at 7 8 or 9 crowns the Cantare and we were told that the year before our being there Ann. 1663. were vended 7000 Cantares of both sorts 3. Cotton-wool called in Latine Xylon or Gossipium of which they send abroad yearly 14000 Cantares in the husk They have of late begun to plant Indigo which my Author saith agrees with the soil and likes and thrives there very
well be accounted the boldest piece of Architecture as he saith that I think the world hath seen The Roof arched or vaulted and the vault divided into great squares or panes like wainscot after the old Roman fashion the ribs and transverse borders which terminate those squares or pannels being channelled and richly gilded and the area of each square almost fill'd up with a gilt rose The oval Portico encompassing a large area before the Church consisting of 4 rows of great stone pillars standing so thick that they show like a grove of great trees The stately porch to which you ascend out of this area by 24 steps not to mention the incrustation of some part of the walls with polished marble the excellent statues stately Altars rare pictures and other ornaments render this Church truly admirable and in all respects I will not say comparable to but excelling the best in the world During our stay at Rome we rode forth to see 1. Frescati 12 Italian miles distant anciently called Tusculum where Cicero had a villa or Countrey-house of which as yet they shew some remains Heer are at present 3 noted ville 1. That of the Borghesi with the palace called Mondragone and two others 2. The Villa Aldobrandina or Belvedere belonging to Prince Pamphylio 3. The Villa Ludovisia all of them for walks groves Labyrinths gardens and other ornaments not inferiour to the best about Rome and for cascates or falls of water wetting sports and other ingenious water-works beyond them What we took more especial notice of as having not before seen was the imitation of a tempest or storm of thunder and rain This artificial thunder they call Girandola 2. Tivoli anciently Tibur 18 Italian miles off Rome Of this City Horace was much enamoured praying that it might be the seat and retirement of his old age Tibur Argeo positum colono Sit meae sedes utinam senectae Sit modus lasso maris viarum militiaeque It stands like Frescati on the brow of a hill and overlooks the Campagna of Rome Heer are some remains of ancient temples and other buildings and a remarkable cascate of the river Aniene or Teverone The villa of Este for gardens and orchards walks and groves the Girandola and other water works is nothing inferiour to those at Frescati About 5 miles distant from Tivoli we passed over the Sulphur-river the water whereof is warm of a blewish colour and noisom smell much like to that of the Sulphur-well at Knareburgh in Yorkshire It encrusts the channel it runs in with a whitish kind of friable stone which in many places in the bottom and sides of the channel congeals in the figure of confects or sugar-plums which they call Confetti de Tivoli Of these you have boxes full to be sold at Rome so exactly resembling confects both for figure and colour that no man can distinguish them but they are not naturally found so figured as they would make strangers believe but artificially made so by casting in moulds About Frescati we found great store of Styrax arbor growing wild in the hedges which we found no where else beyond the Seas The Campagna of Rome seems to be good land but is esteemed a very bad air and unhealthful Countrey to live in which is the reason it is so desolate and thin of inhabitants I had almost forgot one natural Phaenomenon we observed at Rome which did a little surprise us In sharp â—rosty weather in the middle of Winter the water which the servants brought up to wash with in the morning was hot to that excess that we did verily believe they had heated it over the fire nor could we be perswaded of the contrary till we went down to the fountain and found it there of equal temper with what was brought up It was formerly taken for granted by the Peripatetic Schools that fountains of springing water are hotter in cold weather or winter and colder in hot or summer than at other times the reason whereof they assigned to be an Antiperistasis satisfying themselves with that and seeking no further Later Philosophers who could not content themselves with the notion of Antiperistasis chose rather to deny the truth of the experiment and affirmed that fountain-water was not really warmest in the coldest weather or coldest in the hottest but only seemed so to our sence the temper of which is much altered according to the difference of the weather So that what is much colder than our temper in hot weather is not much colder in cold weather and so seems not so cold and on the contrary Or thus We judging of the heat and cold of other things by the proportion they bear to the temper of the air about us when the air is very cold though the water hath the same degree of cold it had before yet it may be hotter then the air and consequently seem to us actually hot and vice versa But for my part whatever the reason be I must needs assert the truth of the experiment being very confident that the water at least of some sources doth not only seem to be but really is much hotter in cold frosty weather than at other times else this water could not possibly have seemed to us as it did more than luke-warm Great store of rain falls heer in winter time to make amends for the extraordinary heat and drought of the summer Rome is a place not only well worth the seeing but very convenient to sojourn in there being wherewithal to entertain and divert men of all sorts of humors and tempers The present Romans seemed to me in their houses and furniture particularly their beds and lodging in their diet in their manners and customs and in their very pronunciation so liquid plain and distinct more to symbolize and agree with us English then any other people of Italy whether it were that we learned of them or they of us or both mutually of each other when there was that great commerce and entercourse between us and that City for so many years together To describe at large the Court of Rome with all its Officers and Ministers the Ecclesiastical government of the Romish Church in general their Ceremonies and shows the civil government of the territories subject to the Pope and particularly of the City of Rome the interest of the Pope and the terms he stands in with other Princes would require a volume alone and therefore I shall chuse rather wholly to omit those particulars for the present and pass on to the description of our succeeding voyage January 24. 1664. We departed from Rome and began our journey to Venice riding along the Via Flaminia and passing the Tiber again by the Ponte Molle or Pons Milvius At 7 miles distance from Rome we passed a small village called Prima porta Some suppose that anciently the City extended thus far which conjecture I conceive is grounded upon the name of this place Eight miles further riding
and proceeding on about 15 miles further we passed near to Chioza a large Town built among the lagune and Pelestrina a village standing upon the Argine or Lido we entred into the lagune at the haven of Malamocco and soon after arrived at Venice Feb. 9. of which City we have already written as much as suffices for our purpose We began our journey from Venice to Geneva by the way of Rhoetia and Swizzerland Passing by boat to Mestre 7 miles and from Mestre to Treviso by coach 12 miles At Treviso we took horses and a Vitturine for Trent in which journey we spent two days and an half it being almost 80 miles riding The first day we passed through C. Franco 12 miles and then over a fair champian Countrey to Bassano a very handsome and pleasant walled Town upon the river Brenta over which there is a good bridge of wood This Town drives a great trade of weaving silks As soon as we were past Bassano we entred among the mountains going up beside the river Brenta 14 miles and lodged at Pont Sigismund The second day we rode still up beside the river and about 2 miles from Ponte we passed through a gate where we paid Datii to the Arch-Duke of Inspruck At this pass is hewn out of the rock a box or little castle called Caâ—olo a great height above the road to which there is no avenue at all but both the Souldiers that keep it and all their provisions must be drawn up by rope and pully only there is a fountain of fresh water in it Notwithstanding that this fortress belongs to the Arch-Duke yet the Venetian territory extends 4 or 5 miles further to a place called Sixteen miles riding brought us to a pretty little Town called Bergo and 13 miles more to Perzine a rich and populous Borgh 5 miles short of Trent Near this Town is a good valley but at our being there the snow was not melted Between Bassano and Ponte the Countrey on the left hand the river Brenta as we went up belongs to the Sette Commune and on the right hand to Bassano Upon the river were several saw-mills and a great quantity of timber floted down the stream to Padua As soon as we got among the mountains we every where found stoves in the houses instead of Chimneys The plants we observed in this journey were Erica Pannonica 4. Clus now in flower upon the sides of the mountains and the Rocks plentifully Fumaria bulbosa Leucoium bulbosum vulgare C. B. Leuc. bulbosum minus triphyllon J. B. We got early to Trent a pretty little City seated upon the river Athesis at the foot of the mountains which do encompass it almost round save the valley where the river runs The inhabitants speak altogether Italian and the Venetian money passes current among them notwithstanding their present Prince is Arch-Duke of Inspruck Beside the North door of the Domo we found the monument of Matthiolus having on it these inscriptions Above Herbarum vires nec rectiùs edidit alter Nec mage te clarus hac super arte fuit Si mens ut corpus depingi posset imago Vna Dioscordis Matthiolique foret Under his Effigies this D. O. M. Petro Andreae Matthiolo Senensi III Caesarum Ferdinandi Maximiliani Rudolphi Consiliario Et Archiatro Et Hieronymae Comitissae ex aâ—tiqua illustri Castellanorum seu Comitum Varmi familia Ferdinandus Matthiolus Caesari Ferdinando Austriae Archiduci Joanni Georgio Saxoniae Electori à consiliis cubiculis medicus Apostolica Imperiali auctoritatibus Sacri Pala tii Lateranen Aulaeque Caesareae comes Et armatae militiae eques auratus Vna cùm Maximiliano fratre Anniversariis precibus institutis Parentibus bene merentissimis PP Ann. MDCXVII Vixit ille an LXXVII Ann. Christi MDLXXVII obiit Tridenti Vixit illa an XXXII Obiit ibidem An. Dom. MDLXIX Below this Distich Saxa quidem absumit tempus sed tempore nunquam Interitura tua est gloria Matthiole On the front of the Quire is this following inscription concerning the Council held in this City Sacrosanctum postremum Oecumenicum generale Concilium fuit in hac celeberrima civitate celebratum quidem sub Papa Paulo III Anno MDXLV XIII Decembris pro felice inchoatione fuit facta Processio generalis per totam Urbem ab Ecclesia Sanctissimae Trinitatis ad hanc Ecclesiam Cathedralem quâ finitâ primus Cardinalis Praesidens qui postea fuit Papa Julius III prout etiam alter Card. Praesidens fuit Papa Marcellus II nominatus in hoc loco eminentiore tunc magis amplo ad celebrandum Concilium Sessiones faciendas deputato ad altare S. Gloriosissimi martyris Vigilii hujus Ecclesiae patroni celebravit missam de Spiritu S. Ac reliquis caeremoniis peractis fuerunt sub D. Paulo III celebratae octo publicae Sessiones cum decretis aliae tres ob vastam pestem in hac Urbe grassantem Bononiae ubi nihil fuit decretum Anno MDXLVII Postea cessante peste bellis fuit reductum hoc Concilium in hoc eodem loco fuerunt sub Papa Julio III celebratae aliae publicae sex Sessiones cum Decretis Annis 1551 1552 quibus interfuerunt tres Seren issimi Principes Ecclesiastici S. R. I. Electores Archiepiscopi Moguntinus Trevirensis Coloniensis 1° Die Septemb. 1551. hanc Urbem ingressi prout etiam Serenissimus Elector Brandenburgensis duos oratores huc ablegavit Demum sub Papa Pio IV Anno 1561 1563 fuerunt celebratae ultimae novem publicae Sessiones cum Decretis in Ecclesia S. Mariae majoris hujus urbis istius Ecclesiae Reverendissimo Capitulo incorporata sicuti etiam Ecclesia S. Petri. Et nihilominus ad pedes Sanctissimi Crucifixi tum in hoc loco existentis nunc aliò translati pro Decretorum corroboratione scmper fuerunt publicata omnia dicti Concilii Decreta Interfuerunt sub dictis summis Pontificibus celebrationi Cardinales Legati 13 inter quos Christophorus Madrucius non Legati 4 inter quos Ludovicus Madrucius Oratores Principum totius Europae 29 Patriarchae 3 Archiepiscopi 33 inter quos Archiepiscopus Rossaniensis qui postea fuit Vrbanus 7 nominatus Episcopi 233 Abbates 18 Generales ordinum 12 Theologiae Doctores 148 Procuratores 18 Officiales Concilii 3 Cantores 9 Natarii 4 Cursores Papae 2. Sacrosancto Spiritui S. omnium Conciliorum directori sacratissima Die Pentecostes Anno 1639. dicatum Heer are no remarkable Churches or other buildings The Bishop is both spiritual and temporal Prince Under him there is a Governour who yet can do nothing without the Council which consists of 8 persons viz. The Podestà or Mayor of the City the Capitaneo two Canons of the Church and 4 Gentlemen or Citizens All these are nominated and appointed by the Bishop and continue in power during life modò bene se gesserint There
to twelve and some to all the Cantons to which the Cantons concerned by course send their Landtvogts To the 12 Cantons Appenzel is the excluded belong the 4 Italian Praefecturae which they obtained by the donation of Maximilian Sforze Duke of Milan An. 1513. viz. Lugano Logarno Mendriz and Val Madia To the 7 Cantons that is Zurich Lucern Suitz Vri Vnderwald Glaris and Zug belong Baden Liberae Provinciae and Sargans to these 7 and Bern belongs Turgow to these 7 and Appenzel belongs Rhineck or Rheinthall To the 3 Cantons i. e. Vri Suitz and Vnderwald belongs Bellinzona in Italy whose Territory is divided into three Bayliwicks to which those three Cantons send Landvogts by course viz. Bellinzona Val Palensa and Riviera To the two Cantons of Suitz and Glaris belong Vznach and Wesent or Castra Rhoetica At Glaris they told us that in their own Countrey those of the Canton of Suitz were good Soldiers but living most upon milk and white meats they could not last and endure abroad That those of Vri Appenzel and the lower part of Glaris made the best Soldiers of all We travelled from Glaris through Nafels a little Village and several other Villages near the Lake of Rappersville or the Zurich-sea especially Lachen where they usually take boat for Zurich and after an hours riding by the Lakes side and in sight of Rappersvill and the long Bridge cross the Lake we climb'd up a very high Mountain on our left hand to the top of which when we were ascended we rode throogh a Country all covered with snow which in the Summer time seems to be a very pleasant place Heer we found Eynsidle where is a famous Monastery of Benedictine Freres in whose Church is an Image of our Lady which works great miracles si credere fus sit This is a place of great devotion visited by Strangers and Pilgrims after the manner of Loreto And as there is the Holy house so here is a Chappel divinely consecrated set in the body of the Church and enclosed in a case of Marble given by an Archbishop of Saltzburg Near the door of this Church is an Alley of Shops of Beads and Medals as at Loreto and here as there an incredible number of Beggers continually waiting The Canton of Switz is Protector of his Abbey If any one desire to know more of this place he may consult the History of it entitled as I remember Sanctae Virginis Eynsiddlensis We rode again over the snow for about three hours and then descending by degrees we passed through three Villages and at last arrived at Swyts a fair Village for it s counted no other though it be comparable to the best of our Market Towns having a large Piazza handsomely paved The government of this Canton is much what the same with that of Glaris The whole Canton is divided into 6 parts or quarters Each division hath 10 Counsellors so that the Council or Senate consists of 60 which they call Ratsheeren When a Senatour dies that quarter to which he belonged chuses another by the major vote of all the people Every quarter hath its head who is called Siebener because they are seven in all the Landamman making one of the number which make a lesser Council to manage and take care of the public revenue The Senatours are obliged in important causes to take each his man to be his assistant and in the most weighty of all as concerning peace and war each two men so that then the Council is tripled The last Sunday of April as at Glaris is the Convention of the whole Canton called the Landtskmein when all the males above 16 years of age meet and elect by major vote the Landamman and other Officers and Landvogts To this meeting all the people that can conveniently are obliged to come and every one to swear fidelity to their Countrey to maintain their Liberties c. The Officers are the same as at Glaris This Canton and every one of the rest send two Messi to the general Diet at Baden of which the Landamman is usually one This Canton hath also the like two little Councils or Consistories as Glaris We rode about 3 miles to a place called Brunen beside the lake of Lucern and there embarkt for Altorf spending in our passage upon the water about 3 hours and then we had but a mile to the town From Swytz to Altorf there is no travelling by land as they told us unless we would go some scores of miles about Altorf hath no piazza yet is it a larger town than Schwytz and hath a pretty Church and a Monastery of Capucines Heer we heard at large related to us the story of William Tell and the Lantvogt which he that is desirous to know may consult Simler On the top of a pillar over one of their fountains in the street is set the statue of this Tell with his cross-bow on his shoulder and leading his son by the hand At some distance stands a tower on which are painted the several passages of the Story The Government is almost the same with that of Schwytz The number of Senators manner of their election the same The Officer and Magistrates the same only they mentioned a Suk-heer who hath the charge of the Ammunition whom they told us not of in other Cantons and 6 Fiersprachts i. e. Proctors or Councellors but not of the Council The Senatours being to judge in criminal causes take to them another man so that then the Council is doubled They have also a lesser Council of 15 called the Landtram which decides civil causes These are taken out of the great Council and go round in a rota They meet the first Munday every moneth A third Council also they have called the Poderade which sits weekly about actions of debt where the sum exceeds not 60 livers The Senators as they told us have no Salary or allowance at all When one of the Council is chosen Landtvogt he is put out of the Council Vri is the first Canton that set it self at liberty We returned to the lake of Lucern and taking boat we went by water within one hour of Stantz the principal village of Vnderwald where we lodged As we sailed upon this lake we happened to see a great fall of snow from the tops of some mountains hanging over the lake which made a ratling and report not unlike thunder as Monsieur de Cartes in his Meteors notes At Stantz they have a very fair Church and two Convents one of Capucine Freres and one of Muns Heer and at Altorf Switz Lucern c. we observed in the Church-yards crosses set upon the graves some of wood some of iron and on some of them hanging a little copper kettle with holy water in it Some women we saw coming with a bunch of herbs in their hands which they dipped in the kettle and sprinkled the water therewith upon the graves These I suppose
Communities he is obliged during his Office to reside in the City The lake of Zugh hath great variety of fish more then any other lake of Switzerland if the people there may be believed They named to us Eels Carps Perches Trouts Salmons which is very strange there being no way for them to get thither but up the Rhene and so they must have a course of above 500 miles and besides there being at Wasserfal a huge Catarract of the whole river which one would think it were impossible to pass Esch called by the Italians Temelo and in English Grayling Trisea or Trasine in English Eelpout Pikes of which we saw one taken that weighed 30 pound Weiss-fish or Alberlin called at Geneva Farra This fish is taken in the lake of Bala in Merionethshire in Wales and there called Guiniad from the whiteness of it and in huls-Huls-water near Pereth in Cumberland and there called Schelley Hassler which I take to be the Charre of Winandermere in Westmerland and the Torgoch of Northwales Balla Nase called by Naturalists Nasus Breams Crevises and a great many sorts more to the number of at least 50. In many of the shadowy lanes we passed through about Stantz Zug and elsewhere we observed growing plentifully Aublatum Cordi or Dentaria aphyllos We travelled from Zug to Zurich which is 5 good hours riding But of that City we have already written From Zurich we rode to Mellingen a free Town not far from Baden 4 good leagues and then through a little walled Town belonging to the Bernese called Lensburgh and lodged at Arauw a considerable Town upon the river Aar subject also to the Bernese 4 short leagues We travelled a streight rode passing no considerable Town till we arrived at Soloturn 9 leagues distant from Arauw This though it be the head of a Canton is no large Town nor very considerable for its strength We diverted out of the common rode to Geneva to see Bern 6 hours distant from Soloturn This is a handsome City built all of stone though the houses be not tall It hath one fair long street with narrow portico's or Cloysters on each side It lies stretched out in length upon a hill which I may call a Peninsula it is so almost begirt about with the river On that side where it is not compassed with the river it is strongly fortified with good bastions and outworks The Founder of this City as also of Friburg in Switzerland and Friburg in Brisgoia was Berchtoldus Duke of Zerin as appears by the inscription upon their moneys To him they have erected a monument in the great Church This Church is one of the handsomest stone-fabrics in all Switzerland The territory of this City is more then on third part of the Countrey of the Suisses and is divided into 60 Praefecturae or Bailyages besides 4 which are common to them with Friburg For this reason there must needs be many rich men in the City though they have but little trade The Landtvogts or Bayliffs continue in office 6 years during which time they enrich themselves well yet do not their subjects complain but acknowledge themselves well used by their Governours Heer they keep 5 or 6 Bears in a pit These Bears I observed to climb the firr-trees growing in the pit and delighting to sit on the tops of them like birds on a perch The Arms of the Town is also a Bear which they took I suppose alluding to their name Bern And they first coyned the mony called Batzes from the figure of a bear stamped upon it which afterward all the Cantons imitated calling it also by the same name From Bern we rode to Friburg a handsome Town and the head of a Canton built upon a hill almost begirt with a river after the manner of Bern and by the same Founder on all sides environed with hills save where it is continuous to the land Their territory is surrounded with and enclosed in the territory of Bern. From Friburg we travelled through Maulton to Lausanna a great Town and an University and from Lausanna April 19. through Morges a large Town Rolle and Nion considerable Towns by the lake of Geneva's side and Verfoy a little Town on the lake near Geneva belonging to the French and came to our lodging at Geneva where we rested and sojourned near 3 months The Governments of Soloturn Bern and Friburg are much like that of Lucern In Soloturn the number of the lesser Council is 35 and of the greater 115. When one of the 35 dies the 34 remaining chuse one into his place out of the 115. When one of the 115 dies or is advanced the rest chuse one into his place out of the number of the Citizens In Bern the greater Council consists of 200 and the lesser as we were told there of 42 though Simler makes them but 26. These Councils are chosen by 20 Electors and the Sculthess viz. the four Signiferi of the City and 16 whom they pick out of the whole body of the Citizens and joyn with themselves In Friburg the lesser Council is of 24 and the greater of 200. When one of the lesser Council dies they chuse one into his place out of the greater and when one of the greater dies or is removed the lesser as I understood them chuse one into his place out of the number of the Citizens All these Cities have 2 Sculteti or Consuls who rule alternis annis He that desires a more full and particular account of the government of these Cities may consult Simler de Repub Helvetiorum Each of the Cantons have some Saint or other to be their Patron and protector whose image the popish Cantons set on the reverse of their monies v. g. S. Oswald a King of England Protector of Zug In their Church they have his reliques and have set up his image on horseback The Protestant Cantons are Zurich Bern Basel Sehafhausse part of Glaris and part of Appenzel That which most frequently breeds differences a quarrels among the Suitzers is the business of the common vogties or Bailywicks For most of these I mean the Dutch ones being of the reformed religion are oppressed and injured by the Popish Lantvogts the Protestant Cantons not knowing how either to help and relieve them or retaliate For the Popish Cantons being more in number than the Protestants they send Lantvogts to these places twice to the Protestants once This one of the Ministers of Zurich told me wad fundi sui calamitas and occasioned the two late breaches among them The Switzers on each side are very stiff in their Religion the Papists not permitting or tolerating one Protestant nor the Protestants one Papist in their proper territories Though the Cantons adhering to the Church of Rome are more in number yet the reformed are much the greater besides that their land is better very like to ours in England The Romanists are accounted the better Souldiers and
Castelneuf Cyperus paniculâ sparsa speciosâ J. B. in pratis propè Boutonetum Castrum novum Doryâ—nium Monspeliense J. B. in aggeribus sepium frequens Echinopus minor J. B. i. e. Carduus caeruleus sphaerocephalus minor C. B. in collibus ad vias passun Erica arborescens Monspeliensis flore purpurascente ramulis ternis J. B. in luco Grammontio Erica arborescens floribus luteolis vel herbaceis minimis J. B. ibid. Ferula Lob. Foeniculum tortuosum passim Geranium folio Althaeae C. B. juxta munitiones arcis non procul à nivis reconditorio Geranium cicutae folio acu longissimâ C. B. Ad agrorum margines in aggeribus Gingidium umbellâ longâ in prato quodam juxta viam quae Frontignanam ducit copiose Gnaphalium ad Stoechadem citrinam accedens juxta fluv Ladum Gramen minimum Dalechampii J. B. in vineis vere primo floret Gramen parvum pulchrum paniculâ compressà nigricante J. B. in aquosis Hedypnois Monspessulana sive Dens leonis Monspessulanus J. B. in aggeribus terrenis passim Helianthemum tenuifolium glabrum flore luteo J. B. in collibus aridioribus passim Helianthemum flore albo folio angusto hirsuto J. B. in collibus Castro novo vicinis alibi Herba Doria Lob. Ad Ladum amnem copiose Herniaria glabra in prato quodam juxta lucum Grammont Hieracium parvum hirtum caule aphyllo J. B. in arenosis collibus propè Sellam novam alibi passim Holosteum Plantagini simile J. B. in aggere quodam inter urbem Ladum amnem Hypericum tomentosum J. B. in humidioribus circa Selneuf alibi Ilex cocâ—ifera in collibus saxosis Jacea cum spinosis capitulis pururea tenuifolia J. B. passim Jocea montana capite magno Strobili J. B. in collibus juxta Costelneuf Selneuf c. Jacea luitea capite spinoso C. B. satis frequens in pascuis collibus Kali majus semine cochleato Ger. In litoribus maris salsis palustribus Lathyrus major Narbonensis angustifâ—lius J. B. in collibus quos Garigues vocant Leucâ—â—um maritimum angustifolium in lingua illa inter stagnum Volcarum Estang dictum mare Linum marinuâ— luteum Ad. in pratis circa Sellam novam Castrum novum itemque ad mare Linaria luteo parva annua J. B. in summitate montis Lupi Lotus siliquosa lutea Mouspeliensis J. B. in collibus pascuis Marrubium nigrum longifolium i. e. Herba venti Monspliensium in aggeribus ad vias Moly moschatum capillaceo folin C. B. propè sylvam non longè à Selneuf in collibus quos Garigues vocant Orobus receptus berbariorum Lob. in agris passim Peucedanum vulgare propè sylvam Grammontium Phyllon arrhonogonon thelygonon J. B. in aggeribus fossarum praecipue secus fluvios Phyteuma passim Polemonium sive Trifolum fruticans Ger. in sepibus vulgatiss Prunella angustifolia J. B. Pulegium cervinum angustifolium J. B. in locis ubi per hyemem aquae stagnârant Polygoni quaedam species erecta an Arenaria J. B. Ad agrorum margines Rhus folio Vlmi C. B. in collibus propè Castelneuf copiosè Rhus myrtifolia Monspeliaca Ad sepes praecipuè verò ad ripas Ladi amnis Rubia maritima in lingua illa inter Estang mare Scammonea Monspeliaca foliis rotundioribus C. B. Ad mare propè Peraux villam novam c. Scorpioides siliqua campoide hispida in aggeribus munitionum Securidacae genus triphyllon J. B. in collibus propè Castelneâ—f Sideritis Monspessulana J. B. Propè patihulum aux Garigues c. Sideritidis genus verticillis spinosil J. B. in agris copiosè Sinapi echinatum J. B. inter segetes Smilax aspera J. B. Ad sepes passim Sonchus lanatus Dalechampii J. B. Sonchis affinis Terracrepola in pascuis Stoechas Arabica in Grammontia sylva copiose in sylva propè Selneuf Stoechas â—â—â—rina tenuifolia Narbonensis J. B. passim Stoechadi citrinae affinis capitulis parvis raris squamosis in pappos evanescentibus J. B. in fissuris rupium juxta Castelneuf alibi Tamarix major sive arborea Narbonensis J. B. Ad mare copiosè Telephium scorpioides J. B. circa Castelneuf Thlaspi clypeatum serpylli folio C. B. Thlaspi fruticosum spinosum C. B. in rupibus in summa parte montis Lupi Thlaspi umbellatum tenuiter diviso folio amarum Narbonense J. B. in arvis prope patibulum alibi Thymum vulgare rigidius folio cinereo J. B. in aridioribus passim Tragos sive Vva marina minor ad mare copiosè Tribulus terrestis in agris passim Trifolium argentatum floribus luteh J. B. in collibus propè Castelneuf alibi in agro Monspeliaco Trifolium haemorrhoidale seu Lotus Libyea Dalechampii ad ripas Ladi amnis Trifolium stellatam purpureum circa patibulum alibi Valeriana rubra angustifolia C. B. in rupibus montis Lupi Verbascum sylaestre Monspeliense flore luteo hiante J. B. in collibus saxosis Vinca pervinca major Ad sepes OF MONTPELLIER MOntpellier is a round Town standing upon a hill in the midst of a stony Countrey somewhat bigger than Geneva but not so populous The number of Inhabitants at present being about 25000 of which two third parts are Papists and one Protestants The Protestants have 2 Churches Temples they call them in Town The streets of this City are very narrow short and crooked without any uniformity or beauty at all so intricate that its half a years work to understand them all and learn the way from place to place The houses are many of them well built of free stone which were they set well together in order would make 3 or 4 handsome streets No large Piazza or market-place in Town The number of Apothecaries in this little City is scarce credible there being 130 shops and yet all find something to do Their Cypres powder sweet bags Cassolets Treacle Confectio Alkermes Hyacinthi having a name all France over The Queen of Hungaries water as they call it made heer is likewise much bought up It is nothing but common Spirit of Wine in which Rosemary flowers have been macerated distilled from the said flowers The wines heerabout are very strong and bear water well Their vineyards are of dwarf vines without any support the standards when the branches are prun'd off being like the standards of our Osier-gardens At Montpellier the best Verdet or Verdâ—greece Viride aeris is made They told us that so good could not be made elsewhere though they used the same method and the same materials whether it be to be attributed to the just temper of heat or the nature of the wine they use or some other unknown quality The manner thus â—irst they take Grape-stalks well cleansed from the raisins and from all filth and putting in the bottom of a pot a quantity of the best red wine they set sticks cross a little above the wine and upon them lay
city and the Duke never imposes any taxes but hath only all the tithes of the corn wine c. There is a Council of 36 changed every year and he that hath been of the Council must wait three years before he can be chosen again The last thing the Council does is to chuse a new Council for the year following This new Council is divided into four Ranks not equally but as the old Council shall think fit and their names are put into 4 boxes out of every box a child takes out one to be Consul He that is drawn out of the first box is the first Consul and so in order Near the town is a castle and in the castle a tower said to be built by Charlemagne Every Duke hath an oath given him by the Consuls wherein is an Article that he must reside in the castle which is never kept We passed through Kalah and lay at a single Inn a league and an half further four leagues and an half distant from Cardona We passed through S. Columba Roccafort and lay at Sirreall five leagues and an half We passed by Pobla a famous ancient Monastery about two leagues distant from Sirreall In the Church there are a great many monuments They told us that 13 Queens and 7 Kings lay interred there Then we passed Praves and lay that night at Coulnouvil 5 leagues All over Catalonia they reckon a league two hours and make account that 4 Catalonian leagues are equal to 6 French We heard that there were Amethysts also found about Praves We passed by Falsot two leagues from Coulnouville where are a great many Lead-mines The oar is very rich and they melt it just as it is taken out of the mine without beating it to powder They fell the oar for 40 Reals of Ardit the Quintal a Quintal being 122 pounds Five Quintals of oar usually yield four Quintals of lead This town and the mines about it belong to the Duke of Cardona They told us that the vein of metal lay always East and West The best and finest of this oar they grind to powder and thereof make varnish to lead earthen pots and vessels with sprinkling the powder upon the pots This night we lay at Tivisa four leagues We passed Venu-falet Tivians and lodged at Tortosa 6 leagues All along the way we saw a great deal of Palma humilis Hispanica non spinosa The fruit grew up in bunches out of the ground like the berries of Arum and was not much bigger Those that were ripe were of a reddish colour of an oblong figure and divided into 4 quarters those that were less ripe were yellowish The skin and pulp very thin and did but just serve to cover the stone It hath the smell and taste of Dates The stones being broken are not at all hollow but have a hard white kernel or pearl within them We observed also abundance of Garossus as they call it i. e. Caroba sive Siliqua dulcis the cods whereof they give their mules instead of provender The Spanish Soldiers at the siege of Barcellona had nothing but these Siliquae and water to live upon All over Catalonia the people are generally poor They use neither glass nor paper in their windows but only shuts of wood Tortosa is a very poor and desolate town There is a bridge of boats over the river Iberus now called Ebro in sight of which we rode all along from Tivisa hither At Tortosa they were wont to make salt-sellars mortars bouls beads c. of a kind of marble of a mingled colour red and yellow sound near the town which they call Jasper and of another greenish marble spotted with black brought from Genoa We went to the Jasper mine about 2 miles from the town with one of the chief workmen We saw there vast pillars hewn out and wrought for a Church in Palermo He told us that all the veins of marble jasper c. went from East to West That they sawed these stones to make tables c. with only water and sand That when there was not enough red in the stone they made little holes and set in red stones That the cement they used for all stones in Mosaic works was made of one half mastich and one half Greek pitch That in building they joyned the stones together with ordinary lime but on the outside they filled up the chinks with a cement made of the powder of the Jasper mingled with sulphur and Mangra to make it more white they put in more sulphur to make it more red they put in more Mangra The Jasper was hew'd out with chizzels and hammers just as stone in our stone-pits It is afterwards polished with Armoril i. e. the powder they use to polish armour with and to give it a lustre so that one may see his face in it with the powder of the cinders of the best Tin This day we set out towards Valence passing the Ebro by the bridge of boats and lodged at Galera a small village 2 leagues distant from Tortosa We passed by Tregera whereabouts seemed to be the ruines of an old Romane way Mattheau Salsandail and lay at Lescouvas 7 leagues Near Lescouvas we found store of Oleander with a red flower We passed Cabanos Pobletta Buriol villa real Annules 7 leagues This journey we saw a great many rivers quite dried up and for above a month together had scarce any rain That little that was always came just from the sea We passed Chinoes Almenaro Moulvedere an Saguntus Massa-magril Albalade and arrived at Valence 7 leagues Near Valence the Countrey is very populous and well cultivated Abundance of Mulberry-trees are planted in rows all the fields over As we passed through the Market-place at Valence all the people houted at us and threw parings of melons c. on our cloaks It seems they are not used to see strangers and travellers there This was the first place in Spain where we were searched In this city is an University I heard a Professor read Logic. The scholars are sufficiently insolent and very disputacious One of them asked me Quid est Ens universale and whether I was of Thomas Aquinas his opinion another Quid est Genus None of them understood any thing of the new Philosophy or had so much as heard of it None of the new books to be found in any of their Booksellers shops In a word the University of Valence is just where our Universities were 100 years ago In the Kingdom of Valence the King of Spain is not absolute but to impose taxes raise soldiers c. he must have the consent of the three Estates i. e. 1. The Clergy 2. The Nobility 3. The Cities and Villages and if one of these refuse to consent nothing can be done These three Estates have 6 Deputies 2 for each who are changed every third year Of the two for the Cities one is for the City of Valentia and
another round about the Court. Adjoyning to this is the antient Palace of the Kings of Granada within there is all the same kind of Moresco-work wrought in mortar and stone with gold and painting The Cloysters are supported by long slender pillars In this Palace is an octagonal Chamber vaulted at the top with 8 doors one in every side If one stand in one angle and whisper to another that stands in the angle diametrically opposite the voice is conveyed as in the the whispering place at Glocester but if you stand in an angle that is not diametrically opposite you hear nothing The reason of the conveying the voice is the vault above and the corners being streightned into a very sharp angle or channel In Granada are two great Market-places one called Plassa nova the other de villa Rambla In the great Church are two Monuments one for Ferdinand and Isabella with this inscription Mahometicae sectae prostratores Haereticae pervicaciae extinctores Fernandus Aragonum Helisabetha Castellae vir axor unanimes Catholici appellati marmoreo clauduntur hoc tumulo The other is of Philippus I and Joanna daughter and heir of Ferdinand and Isabella without an inscription In the river Daro that runs by Granada they find gold among the sand In the mountains of Sierra neveda near Granada are said to be divers sorts of minerals which are not at all looked after Near Motril at the Capâ— di Gatto there is a Mine of Granates covered with the sea They are pointed as Amethysts and Crystal but the best come from Africa We saw that day Montesacro a place within half a league of the Town of great devotion In Castile Granada c. the greater Cities have a Corregidore and the lesser an Alcayde who administer justice and are appointed and sent by the King to govern the Towns All over the Kingdom of Castile they eat flesh upon Saturdays and observe only Fridays We left Granada and passing by Santa Fede travelled to Lotta 8 leagues At Lotta we were troubled with soldiers that came from the frontiers of Portugal to take up their winter Quarters There had been of this party 2600 but this summer at Alcantara they were reduced to 900 the rest being slain or dead of diseases We passed this day by Archidona Lalameda Larouda and lay at Pedrera 10 leagues We passed by Ossuna La Pobla and lay at Elazabal 10 leagues This Countrey was the best we saw since we came into Spain the land being for the most part well planted and cultivated We passed by Gandula and arrived at Sevil 7 leagues Between Gandula and Sevil there are abundance of Olive-trees Heer we first saw the greater sort of Olives which are usually eaten in England for a sallet called the great Spanish Olive all that we had seen in Italy or in Spain before being of the lesser sort Here is a brave Aqueduct of brick which conveys water from Carmona six leagues distant under the Arches there are Stalactites as at the Aqueduct of Pisa The Gallions bring nothing home from the West-Indies but Plate the Merchants ships are loaden with leather Cacao Sugar Lana di Vigonna c. Of the Cacao Nut they make Chocolate thus First they tost the berries to get off the husk then pound the kernels to powder and to every Miliao i. e. 3 pound and a half of powder they add and mingle two pound of Sugar 12 Vanillas a little Pimentone or Guiny Pepper which is used by the Spaniards only and a little Acchiote to give a colour but these two last may be omitted They melt the Sugar and then mingle all well together and work it up either in rolls or loaves Sevil hath of late decayed very much and doth continually decay more and more the trading being most removed to Cales the reason whereof is because they pay about 27 per cent for all merchandises at Sevil and but 4 or 5 per cent at Cales The chief places to be seen in Sevil are 1. The great Church 2. The Kings or Assistants Palace 3. The Archbishops Palace 4. The Steeple of the great Church like Saint Marks Tower at Venice which you ascend almost to the top without stairs by gently inclining plains 5. The Franciscan Covent 6. The Longha where the Merchants meet about the affairs of the flote 7. The Convent of Nostredame del peuple 8. The Bridge of boats over the Guadalquivir i. e. the river Baetis The Town on the other side this river is called Triana 9. The Inquisition or Castle of Triana just over the Bridge 10. An old Tower called Torre d'oro where St. Ferdinand that recovered Sevil kept money made of leather 11. The Aqueduct 12. The old Palace and Garden of the Moors Near the Bridge along the river side they come every night with their Coaches to take the fresco In the great Church between two Altars are three Monuments for St. Ferdinand the wise his wife Beatrice and his son Alphonsus The same Epitaph in Hebrew Arabic Greek and Latin Hîc jacet illustrissimus Rex Fernandus Castelliae Toleti Legionis Galliciae Sibillae Cordubae Murciae Jaheni qui totam Hispaniam conquisivit fidelissimus veracissimus constantissimus justissimus strenuissimus detentissimus liberalissimus patientissimus piissimus humillimus in timore servitio Dei efficacissimus qui contrivit exterminavit penitus hostium suorum proterviam qui sublimavit exaltavit omnes amicos suos qui civitatem Hispalem quae caput est metropolis totius Hispaniae de manibus cripuit paganorum cultui restituit Christiano ubi solvens naturae debitum ad Dominum transmigravit ultima die Maii Anno ab incarnatione Domini 1252. In the same Church is Fernandus Columbus Christopher Columbus his Son buried with this Epitaph A qui jace el mucho magnifico signor Don Hernando Colon el quel expleo y gasto toda su vida y facenda en aumento di los Lettras y en juntar y perpetuar en esta cividad todos los libros di todas las sciencias qui in su tempo hallo y en ridurlos à quatro libros segun estan à qui sâ—n ilados Fallescio en esta cividad à 12 di Julio 1532. An. de su edad 50 an 10 meses 14 dies Fue Hyio del valoroso memorabile Signor Don Christophoro Colon primicro Admirante qui descubio las Indias y nuevo mondo en vida di los Catholicos Reys Don Fernando y Donna Isabella di gloriosa memoria à onze de Ottobre dy mill quatrocentos y noventa y dos annos y partio del puerto de Palos à descubrirlas con tres Carabelas y noventa personas à tres de Agosto…… iuntes…… y bolbio à Castilla con la vittoria à quattro di Marzo del anno siguente y torno despues otras dos vezes a poblar lequale scubriâ— y al sin fallescio à Valladolid Ã
way within under ground they dig Stone which here they bring out in Carts It being a wet season we made no stay to go into this Vault therefore I have added here the Description of it out of the Philosophical Transactions Numb 67. pag. 2051. There is an excellent Quarry within Cannon-shot of Maestricht upon the very brink of the River Mase lying in a Hill where there are about 25 Fathoms of Rock and Earth over head the length of the Hill being of some miles extending along the River towards Liege situate on the same River and towards Maestricht having in breadth some half or quarter of a mile but somewhat more further off This Quarry hath one Entry towards the River where Carts can pass with great case and unload the Stones upon the brink of the River the Quarry within lying parallel to the Horizon or Level which is a great advantage and elevated but very little above the River This same Quarry which hath well nigh undermined the whole Hill affords one of the most surprising Prospects when well lighted with many Torches that one can imagine For there are thousands of square Pillars in large level Walks and those almost every where above twenty and in some places many more foot high and all wrought with so much neatness and regularity that one would think it had been made rather with curious Workmanship for an under-ground Palace than that those Pillars and Galleries were made by Quarriers that did it only for getting Stone to build above ground This Quarry serveth the People that live thereabouts for a kind of impregnable Retreat when Armies march that way For being acquainted with all the ways in it they carry into it whatsoever they would have safe as well their Horse and Cattel as their moveable Furniture till the danger be over there being so vast a deal of room that 40000 people may shelter themselves in it And he that should attempt to seek them out in this vast Wilderness of Walks and Pillars without an expert Guide would not only be in hazard of losing his way but of being knockt on the head at the corner of every Pillar where People lurking in the dark with their Carbines and Fowling-Pieces would have fair opportunity of shooting at them by the Light of their own Torches c. vide Further upon the Downs we saw three or four more of these Passages and from hence had again a very pleasant Prospect of Maestricht and the Countrey about the River Mose Liege or Luyck is a large City but not comparable to the Holland Towns for Beauty or Riches built for the most part of Timber some of the Houses being covered with boards after the Scotch fashion and some with Slate the Walls I mean the rest uncovered and of Clay The Streets are neither broad not clean-kept The River Mose here divides itself and runs through the Town in two or three Branches over which are several Bridges Here is a convenient Key and upon the River we observed Boats of an extraordinary length the like whereto we had before seen at Vtrecht and Dort This City is pleasantly situate and environed almost round with Hills On the Brow of a Hill which hangs over it stands a Fort or Castle which commands it Upon the sides of these Hills are abundance of Orchards and Cherry-Gardens On those near the City we first saw Vineyards though there are near Lovain which we saw not All Belly-Provisions are cheap here A great many of Poor and Beggars you meet with at every corner but they are not importunate if denied The Countrey People are civil well-manner'd and kind to Strangers The Women are of a dusky Complexion and generally not so handsom as the Hollanders They do a great deal of Drudgery the poorer sort carrying Coals and other Burthens on their backs in Baskets of a Conical Figure to the end or bottom of which they apply a stiff Baston and so rest themselves without setting down their Burthens Near this City are gotten Coals in great plenty but they lie very deep under ground some of us went down into a Pit 150 yards deep The Coal are like our Stone-Coal The arts they use to get Air enough to serve them in the bottom of these Delfs see in the Philosoph Transact At Luyck they use also for Fewel a sort of round Balls made of Clay mixed with a certain proportion of Coal beaten small tempered together and dried in the Sun which they call Hotshots These we never saw used any where but here though the making of them is described in many Books They serve to slake the Heat of the Fire and keep the Coals from burning out too fast Here and at Namur as we were told are made Stone-Pots and Jugs The Cathedral Church is dedicated to S. Lambert to which belong 60 Canonici majores who must be all of Noble Blood except some few Scholars which they may chuse in By these the Bishop and Prince of Liege is elected Besides these there are twelve Canonici mediocres and twelve minores sive parvae mensae On weighty occasions the Prince assembles the States of the Countrey for their Advice The Clergy Gentry and Commons send their several Deputies to these Conventions No Law can be made nor any great Tax imposed without their consents In this City are an incredible number of Monasteries or Religious Houses as they call them In the Garden of the English Jesuites College we saw many ingenious Dials invented by Franciscus Linus In the Church of the Gulielmites Cloister without the Walls we saw Sir John Mondeville's Tomb-Stone In the Vestry are kept his Saddle Spurs and Bridle-bit as also two great Knives which the Monks who shew'd us these things told us were given him by the Emperor of the Turks being such as himself used Upon his Tomb-Stone was this Inscription HIC JACEâ— VIR NOBILIS DNS JOES DE MANDEVâ—LLE AL' DICTUS AD BARBAM MILES DNS DE CAPDI NATUS DE ANGLIA MEDICINE PROFESSOR DEVOTISSIMUS ORATOR ET BONORUM LARGISSIMUS PAUPERIBUS EROGATOR QUI TOTO QUASI ORBE LUSTRATO LEODII DIEM VITE SUE CLAUSIT EXTREMUM ANNO DNI M o CCC o LXXI o MENSIS NOVEMBRIS DIE XVII Thereon was also engraven the Figure of an armed man treading on a Lion having a forked Beard his Hand lift up to his Head in a blessing Posture and these words going out of his Mouth VOS KI PASEIS SOR MI POVR L' AMOVR DEIX PROIES POR MI. Which is old French signifying You that pass over me for the love of God pray for me June 26. we travelled hilly and stony way from Liege to the Spaw seven hours distant We had in prospect on the left hand as we rode Franchimont Castle and soon after came to the view of a deep Valley in the bottom of which lay the Spaw It is a pleasant little walled Town though called a Village indifferently well built for a place so
remote from Commerce The Inhabitants reap no small benefit from the frequency of Strangers which in the Summer-time repair thither in great numbers to drink the Medicinal Waters There is one Well called Pouhont within the Town in the Market-place which tasts strong of Vitriol the Virtues whereof are contained in this Distich written over it Obstructum reserat durum terit humida siccat Debile fortificat si tamen arte bibis The other Wells are at a good dâ—â—â—nce from the Town 1. Sauvenir to the Eastward about an hours walk remote 2. Geronster as far to the Southward and 3. Tonnelet about the mid-way between Pouhont and Sauvenir These Waters seemed to me more brisk and sprightly and better sated with Mineral Juices than any I have tasted in England and doubtless are more nimble and vigorous in their Operations But of their several Natures and Virtues Henricus ab Heer 's hath written a particular Treatise entitled Spadacrene to which I refer the Reader that is desirous to know more of them In the Woods and upon the Rocks near this Town we found many rare Plants which we had not before met with I mean spontaneously growing in their natural places viz. Asclepias flore albo Polygonatum minus Cyanus major Rapunculus spicatus Campanula persicifolia Sideritis flore pallido similis Ladano segetum c. June 28. From the Spaw we travelled to Aken passing through Limbourg three hours distant a Town considerable for its Strength being situate on the side of a Hill and encompassed with a strong Wall and Trench not for its Bigness it consisting only of one short broad Street nor for its Beauty the Buildings being all of Wood. The Garrison at our being there was about 300 Soldiers Before we entred the Town we were met upon the way by some of these Soldiers who very insolently stopt our Horses demanding Money of us which we were forced to give according to their discretion before they would let us pass which though it were no considerable Sum yet was more than we were willing should be violently extorted from us When we were past the Town we met also with many of these Straglers by whom it was told us many Robberies are committed hereabout Aken called by the French Aix la Chappelle to distinguish it I suppose from Aix in Provence is a free City of the Empire very considerable for its Strength and Greatness being encompassed with a double Wall and having in it 30 Churches About now some 15 years ago here happened a lamentable Fire which almost ruined the Town burning down to the ground 4500 Houses from which Calamity it was not half recovered at the time of our being there In the great Piazza or Market-place is a handsom Fountain with this Inscription about the edges of the Basin Hîc aquis per Granum Principem quendam Romanum Neronis Agrippae fratrem inventis calidorum fontium thermae à principio constructae postea verò per D. Carolum Magnum Imp. constituto ut locus hic sit caput regni sedes trans Alpes renovatae sunt quibus thermis hîc gelidus fons influxit olint quem nunc demum hoc aeneo vase illustravit S. P. Q. Aquisgranensis Anno Domini 1620. The Iron Crown wherewith the Emperor is crown'd and the Sword of Charlemaigne which he holds when he is crown'd and is obliged to wear by his side three days together and wherewith he creates Noblemen as also the Gospels said to be written by the Evangelists own hands are here kept and every Coronation sent to Frankfurt The Chair wherein the Emperor sits when he is crown'd here hath its Sides of Ivory and its Bottom as they fondly imagine of the Wood of Noah's Ark. This City according to the best information we could get there is governed by a Maior two Consuls or Burgomasters fourteen Scabins and about 120 Senators or Counsellors The Maior is President of the Scabins and executes their Sentences he is put in by the Duke of Gulick and continues during Life modò bene se gesserit The Consuls are chosen by the Suffrage of the several Companies of the City and continue two years modò bene se gesserint every year there is one chosen One that is no Senator may be chosen Consul or Burgomaster and yet these have the chief power The Scabins are Judges and continue during Life when one of them dies the rest chuse another in his place The Senators are chosen by the several Companies of which there are about fourteen or fifteen in this City Every Company chuses eight Half the Senate are yearly chosen The Territory of this City is large containing about 200 Villages and is for the most part encompassed with Mountains We saw here the manner of making Brass of Copper by mingling and melting therewith Lapis Calaminaris which changes the colour thereof from red to yellow and increaseth the weight by thirty in the Hundred But that for which this Place is most remarkable and from which it took its Name are the Hot Baths of which there are several within the Walls and others without at Borcet a great Village less than an English mile distant The Waters of Borcet at the Sources where they issue out of the Earth are much hotter than those of the Bath in England and the Springs more plentiful The People there told us and I can easily believe them that they will serve to boil Eggs in Their Tast seemed to us saltish They are used outwardly for Bathing and taken inwardly for many Diseases As we walked to Borcet we could not but take notice of a Pool whose Waters were almost tepid by reason of a little Stream from the Hot Baths running through it wherein we were assured were bred and fed good store of Fish which are put into cold Water for a moneth or two before they eat them But of the Nature Kinds Ingredients and Uses of the several hot Waters as well those of the City as of Borcet the following abstract of an Epistolary Discourse concerning them written in French and published by Francis Bloudel M. D. will give the Reader more particular Information Observations concerning the Baths of Aken collected out of an Epistolary Discourse Published in French by Francis Blondel M. D. NOt to trouble the Reader with the various Opinions of Antient and Modern Philosophers concerning the Cause of the actual Heat of natural Baths our Authors accompt thereof in reference to these of Aken is in brief as follows These Waters saith he passing through a certain argillaceous Earth pregnant with a kind of nitrous Salt almost of the same tast with the Waters of the Baths which is to be found in good quantity in the lands about this City charge themselves therewith and so become a menstruum capable of dissolving such Minerals and Metals as are conteined in the Veins of the Earth through which they run This Solution he conceives is made by piercing
only seized the Revenues of the Church into his own hand but also assumed to himself entirely the Episcopal Power and Jurisdiction He also is universal Patron and disposes of all vacant Benefices as he pleases indeed the Council of four nominate and present two unto him of which usually he chuses one because it may well be presumed that he knows not so well as they what persons are best qualified and fit to be preferred but he is not obliged to confer the Benefice upon either of the persons by them so nominated but may either put in another known to himself or command them to nominate others if he like not those presented The Religion of the Countrey is the Reformed The whole Palatinate is divided into three Praefècturae and some viz. the greater of these subdivided into less Every Praefectura hath its Inspector or Bishop who is Pastor of some Church in that Praefectura He differs not from any other in any Jurisdiction but in that commonly he hath a larger Stipend His business is only to give Information if he be of a lesser Division to the Inspector of the whole Praefectura under which he is if of a greater to the Council of foar If need be every Praefectura or great Town hath a Presbytery The Presbytery of Heidelberg consists of the five Ministers of the City two Deputies from each Jurisdiction except the Aulica and two from each Quarter of the City so that at this time the number in all is 21. These all have equal Suffrages the Lay-men with the Ministers only one of the Ministers always presides in his Course This Presbytery assembles once every week at whose meeting is always present a Delegate from the Prince to see that nothing be agitated there which it concerns not the Presbytery to meddle withal This Presbytery hath no power to excommunicate or inflict any Church Censure but if any person be accused to them of any Crime they send him to the Jurisdiction to whom he appertains to enquire into his Offence The Court having received this Information from the Presbytery either neglect it if they please or if they see cause enquire into it and punish the Delinquent according to his Demerit and in the close of the Sentence or Warrant for execution add this Clause Quod ad Scandalum Ecclesiae datum remittimus te ad Presbyterium Now at last all they can do is to exact of him a public Confession before the Church and a promise of Amendment for the future As for Ordination it is given by the Council of four by Imposition of Hands after examination of the person to be ordained and Testimonials exhibited from the University or other Persons of known Credit The Prince receives all Tithes except such as in some places for conveniencies sake are paid immediately to the Ministers and other Church-Revenues most whereof is paid out again in Stipends to the Ministers which the Prince proportions accordieg to their Merit and his own Discretion the rest is reserved for Emergencies July 25. we hired a Coach for Strasburgh which brought us thither in three days At three miles distance from Heidelberg we passed in sight of Philipsburg a well fortified place situate in a level near the Rhene now possessed by the French The Castle or Palace yielded a goodly Prospect A mile further we passed through Graffe a small Town with a Castle belonging to the Markgrave of Tourlach where our Coachman paid Toll We lodged this first night at a Village called Linknom under the same Lord who is a Lutheran July 26. at four miles end we baited at a large Village called Raspach and two miles on further we passed through Stolchoven a little walled Town where our Coachman paid another Toll and after one mile more another walled Town called Lichtenaw both under the Marquess of Baden This second night we took up our quarters at Sertz a Village under the Earl of Haâ—aw July 27. we passed over the Rhene divided into two Branches or Streams by two great Wooden-Bridges which instead of Boards are floored with whole Fir-Trees laid loose across neither pinned nor nailed down I conceive that the Bridge might upon any exigent be more suddenly thrown down and broken Soon after we were past the Bridges we entred Strasburgh In this Journey we observed great plenty of Maiz or Indian Wheat planted in some places Lathyrus sativus and in others Carthamus or bastard Saffron sown in the fields Growing wild besides what we had before observed in other places Blattaria Solidago Saracenica and in the Meadows near Strasburgh Carduus Pratensis Tragi Strasburgh is a free City of the Empire large well built rich and populous encompassed with a double Wall and Trench full of Water besides the advantage of a good situation in a large Level very exactly fortified and the Walls and Works most regular elegant and scrupulously kept in repair so that it seems no easie thing by force to take this City neither was it I think once attempted in the late German Wars It lies as a Block in the Frenchmens way and is as it were the Rampart of the Empire in these parts The Government is by a greater Council of 300 chosen by the several Companies of Citizens and a lesser of 71 of which number six are Burgomasters six Stetmasters 15 Patres Patriae and 13 of the Militia The Women of this City are well-favoured and of good Complexions The Inhabitants are most part Lutherans who have seven Churches some Papists who have one Church and four Cloisters two for Men and two for Women and a few Reformed who yet are not allowed a Church in Town but forced to go some two miles to Church in the Territory of the Earl of Hanaw This City is an Episcopal See the Bishop whereof is Lord of the lower Alsatia He hath a Palace in the City but is not suffered to lodge therein above three days together in an Inn he is allowed eight days at a time Here is the fairest largest best furnished and handsomeliest kept Armory or Arsenal that we saw in Germany or in all these respects any where else Here are also public Granaries Wine-Cellars and Store-houses The River Elle runs through the Town The Domo or Cathedral Church is a fair Building of Stone having a great pair of Brass Folding-Doors at the West end Herein we viewed the famous Clock described by Coryat and others a Piece of excellent Workmanship made as were told by one Isaac Habrechtus of Strasburgh The Steeple of this Church is curiously built of carved Stone and incomparably the highest that ever we yet saw The number of Steps from the bottom to the top is 662. We ascended 640 Steps to the place called the Crown from whence we had a wide Prospect of the Countrey round about In this Steeple two men watch constantly by day and four by night Ten hours distant from Strasburgh towards Stutgard is Sowrebourn
from whence acid Water is brought hither which they mingle with their Wine and drink as at other places By the Inhabitants of this and other Imperial Cities especially the Women are many different sorts of Habits used July 31. we left Strasburgh and began our Journey towards Basil travelling as far as Tivelsheim a Village under the Bishop of Strasburgh some two miles and half August 1. after three miles riding forward we passed through a small walled Town belonging to the same Bishop called Marklesheim Two miles further we rode in sight of Brisach a Town seated on a Rock by the Rhene side a place of great Strength and Importance much contended for in the late Wars It is now in the French hands as is all Alsatia almost to the Walls of Basil and after two other miles we came to a Village called Lodesheim pleasantly situate in a large Plain where we lodged Aug. 2. we rode but one league and an half ere we arrived at Basil This City is large and fair the Houses being for the most part built of Stone tall and painted on the out side It is compassed about with a double Wall and Trench rich and populous built upon Hills so that which way soever you go you either ascend or descend The River Rhene divides it into two parts which are joined together by a Bridge of 14 Arches That part on the North side of the River is called Little Basil There are said to be 300 Fountains in this City scarce a Street or House of note but hath one It is one of the thirteen Cantons of Switzerland and hath in its Territory about 100 Villages It gives Title to a Bishop chosen by Canons who yet is not suffered to lodge in the Town one night He lives at Broudint keeps the State of a Temporal Prince and coins Money which is not current in Basil As to the Civil Government the Citizens are divided into 15 Tribes or Companies Each Company chuses 12 men by major Vote who are called Sexers because six of them only are regent at once viz. one six one year and the other six the next and so alternately These twelve Viri or Sexers chuse out of each Tribe two Tfunff-Masters or Tribuni Plebis for their Lives The Tribuni Plebis chuse two out of each Tribe who are called Senators Of these 60 and the four Heads two whereof are called Burgomasters and chosen by the Senators properly so called and two Tribuni Plebis or Tfunft-meisters and chosen by the Tribuni Plebis the lesser Council consists Both Burgomasters and Tfunft-meisters Tribunes and Senators rule alternately The old Senators or that half of the lesser Council which was in power the precedent year do first debate and agree upon any business of moment before it be propounded to the new Senate who afterwards confirm or reject as they please The Great Council which is assembled by the ordinary Council upon weighty occasions consists of all the Magistrates viz. The 12 Viri and all the lesser or ordinary Council The lesser Council Judges in criminal Causes In this City is an University founded by Pope Pius the Second The University-Senate consists of the seventeen Professors The Names of the present Professors in each Faculty now Anno 1663. are In DIVINITY Johannes Buxtorfius Professor Veteris Testamenti Linguae Hebraicae Joh. Rudolphus Wetstenius Professor N. Testamenti Lucas Kamlerus primarius Pastor Prof. Controversiarum In LAW Remigius Fechsius Pandectarum Prof. He has collected many Rarities Lucas Burchardus Cod. Prof. magnificus Rector Jacobus Brandmullerus Institut Prof. In MEDICINE Emmanuel Stupanus Med. Theor. Prof. Joh. C. Bauhinus pater Praxeos Prof. Hieronymus Bauhinus F. Anatomes Botanices Prof. Of these two the Father is the Son and the Son consequently the Grand-child of that famous Herbarist and Anatomist Caspar Bauhinus In PHILOSOPHY and Humane Literature Christophorus Feeâ—sius frater Remigii Histor Prof. Rheinhardus Iselius Ethic. Prof. Rudolphus Burchardus cognatus Lucae Mathem Prof. Mr. Henricus Keselbachius Phys Prof. Fridericus Burchardus Henrici patruus Orat. Eloq Prof. Samuel Burchardus Logicae Prof. cognatus caterorum Simon Bathienus Rhet. Prof. Joh. Zuingerus Gr. Linguae Prof. The Professors are to read every day in the week in Term-time except Thursdays and Sundays their Stipends are small and not a competent maintenance Here are no Doctors in Divinity created beside the Professors and some the condition of whose places require that Degree In Law they confer two Degrees Doctor and Licentiate in Medicine only Doctor in Philosophy Master and Batchelour The Ecclesiastical Government is by the three Professors of the first Faculty the four Scholarchae and all the Ministers When a Benefice happens to be vacant the Senate nominates three to it out of which the Ministers chuse one The City-Ministers have a certain Stipend in Money in the Countrey-Villages the Ministers have part of their Allowance in Tithes and part in Money No Minister before or after Imposition of hands is obliged by Oath or Promise to continue his Profession so long as he lives but may leave his Ministry when he pleases and betake himself to some other Calling This and all other the Protestant Cantons of Switzerland are of the Reformed Religion In this City Erasmus Rot. lived the latter part of his time and here he died and lies buried in the great Church where there is a fair Marble Monument erected to his Memory against a Pillar on the North side of the Communion-Table He founded and endowed a College in Basil wherein are maintained 20 persons eighteen whereof are to be Students in Divinity who may live there as long as they please provided they follow their Studies and continue unmarried only the Magistrates have a power to command them thence to another kind of life Of the other two one is a Bedel and the other a School-master Over this College there is a Regent without whose leave no Student may lodge out of the House one night Ten of the Students are to be Basileans and ten Strangers At the great Church is preserved Erasmus his Library called Bibliotheca Amberbachiana because Erasmus bequeathed it â—o Amberbachius by his last Will and Testament which we saw written with his own hand in half a Sheet of Paper Dated the 12. of February 1536. In this Library are preserved many good Pieces and Designs of Holbenius a famous Painter born in Basil A Box full of Diplomata given to Erasmus by the Pope Emperor and several Kings and Princes of Europe Erasmus his Seal and Ring A fair Gold Medal sent to Erasmus by the King of Poland Many antient and modern Coins and Medals Three Rappers i. e. small Pieces of Money of a mixt Metal not so big as a Silver Penny of the value of a Farthing turned into Gold by Leon. Turnitius a famous Alchymist of this place who turned the Nail at Florence Several antient Entaglie Many Papers of Amberbachius concerning