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A58175 Observations topographical, moral, & physiological made in a journey through part of the low-countries, Germany, Italy, and France with a catalogue of plants not native of England, found spontaneously growing in those parts, and their virtues / by John Ray ... ; whereunto is added a brief account of Francis Willughby, Esq., his voyage through a great part of Spain. Ray, John, 1627-1705.; Willughby, Francis, 1635-1672. Catalogus stirpium in exteris regionibus. 1673 (1673) Wing R399; ESTC R5715 378,219 735

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and corroding the Minerals after the same manner as Spirit of Nitre and other Aquae Stygiae are wont to do which usually causes a great Ebullition and Heat So then the actual Heat of these Springs proceeds from the Mixture and Encounter of their Waters impregnate as is before intimated with the Mineral and Metallic Substances Juices and Spirits conteined in the Veins of the Earth through which they have their Course The nitrous Salt fore-mentioned may perhaps be the Hermetic Salt of Monsieur Rochas or the esurine Salt of Helmont Now the Water once heated being conteined in the Vaults of the Mountains as in a Stove continues hot a long time the Eruption thereof being it is likely at a good distance from the place where it did at first conceive its Heat At the long continuance and duration of the Heat of these Waters for so many ages past no man need wonder For 1. It is generally taken for granted that all sorts of Mines do grow and increase by addition converting the more refined subtile part of the Earth and which hath a seminal disposition of such a change into their own nature 2. The nitrous Salts the first Ingredients of these Waters are also restored in their Matrices after the same manner as we see it happens in the Caput mortuum of Vitriol which though the Vitriol hath been once or twice extracted from it will by being exposed to the Air again recover more whether it be by conversion of its Matrix into its own nature by a kind of Aggeneration and Transmutation or by imbibing and retaining those subtile and volatile saline Exhalations which continually ascend out of the Earth or wander up and down the Air. As for the Ingredients of these hot Waters in general he saith That besides a threefold Salt-Nitre fixed volatile and mingled or Armoniack they partake of a fixed and volatile Sulphur a Manna of Alum some Vitriol divers Metals as Copper and Iron a very little volatile Earth a certain Argilla Sand and Calaminary Flowers That they participate of Copper he proves in that the Territory of Aken abounds in divers places with Lapis Calaminaris which is as it were the Aliment of Copper For being mingled in the Furnaces with red Copper it augments it by the addition of 30 pound weight per Cent. and gives it a yellow or golden Tincture As for Iron the many ferrugineous Springs that are found within and without this City are an evident testimony that there are plenty of Iron Mines hereabout and therefore most likely it is if not certain that these hot Waters charge themselves with that Metal That they contain a threefold nitrous Salt he proves from their natural Evaporations 1. The fixed is found in the Wells of Borcet and the Emperor crystallized into small shining square grains mingled with a little Flower of Sulphur sticking to the Covers of those Wells which have not been of a long time opened It may be also found in the Chymical examination of these Waters by Evaporation or Destillation 2. The Volatile is carried up by the volatile Sulphur as is hereafter shew'd in the Description of the first sort of these Baths 3. The mingled or Armoniac is daily seen in all the Waters of the City and of Borcet swimming in little Cylinders on the surface of the Water and this is that Cream or Scum which is ordinarily found upon the Waters in the Basins That they contain the rest of the fore-mentioned Ingredients shall be shewn in the Description of the particular Baths the Waters whereof our Author reduces to four sorts 1. Nitro-sulphureous such are those of the Emperors Bath the Little Bath and S. Quirin's Bath 2. Sulphureo-nitrous such are those of Compus or the Poor-mens Bath the Rose-Bath and S Cornelius his Bath 3. Sulphureo-nitro-vitriolic such is another Bath of the same S. Cornelius 4. Salso-alumino-nitrous viz. those of Borcet a Village adjoining to Aken I. As for the Nitro-sulphureous kind those of the Emperors Bath and the Little Bath are but one Water coming from the same Source and collected in one and the same Well That part reserved in the Emperors Bath is divided into five great Basins or Receptacles that in the Little Bath into three All which might be renewed daily if time would permit the Spring is so copious But by reason of the excessive Heat of the Waters it is necessary oft-times that they stand in the Basin 16 or 18 hours to cool before they be fit for the Patients use Notwithstanding when they are come to a just temper one may bath in them and endure them a long time as those of Borcet without any Inconvenience This Source hath that of peculiar to itself that in its Well one may find distinctly a quantity of Nitre coagulated and good plenty of Flowers of Sulphur very light purely fine and well sented The Nitre sticks to the sides of the Well and so do the Flowers of Sulphur above that The which sometimes whether by the extraordinary boiling up of the Fountain or by the impetuosity of the ascending Vapours or by their own weight are broken off and fall back into the Source from whence being no more dissolved by the Water they come forth intire into the Basins If you take of this Water and let it stand in a Vessel certain days it will precipitate of these yellow Flowers of Sulphur to the bottom of the Vessel Besides these volatile Flowers these Waters contein also fixt Flowers of Sulphur a competent quantity of Nitre and volatile fixt and mixt or Armoniac a little Alum less Vitriol the Spirits and Principles of Copper and Iron a very little volatile Earth Argilla and Sand no Bitumen for let them stand as long as you please you shall find no fatty substance swimming upon them as upon the Spaw Waters The volatile Sulphur evaporates so strongly that it carries up with it a quantity of Nitre as one may see after the solution of the Vapours congeled and frozen in Winter-time when it remains incorporated upon the Walls in the places where the Iceicles were These Waters are in weight equal to those of the Spaw coming fresh out of the Source they appear whitish or bluish but having stood a while and grown cold greenish They are very pure and leave no kind of Mud or Lutum thermale behind them in cooling they yield a small Scum or Cream of Nitre Far from their Source being wrought upon by the Air they let fall a little whitish Sediment as those of Bor●et do a blackish one They preserve the colour of Roses put into them and cause them not to wither as doth common Water The Vapours ascending from them make Silver Plate black as those of Boreet make it white The other Source of S. Quirin's Bath differs from these in no other respect save that the Water thereof is cooler It is reserved in three Basins In this Well you find neither Sulphur nor Salt-peter sticking to the sides
remote from Commerce The Inhabitants reap no small benefit from the frequency of Strangers which in the Summer-time repair thither in great numbers to drink the Medicinal Waters There is one Well called Pouhont within the Town in the Market-place which tasts strong of Vitriol the Virtues whereof are contained in this Distich written over it Obstructum reserat durum terit humida siccat Debile fortificat si tamen arte bibis The other Wells are at a good d●●●nce from the Town 1. Sauvenir to the Eastward about an hours walk remote 2. Geronster as far to the Southward and 3. Tonnelet about the mid-way between Pouhont and Sauvenir These Waters seemed to me more brisk and sprightly and better sated with Mineral Juices than any I have tasted in England and doubtless are more nimble and vigorous in their Operations But of their several Natures and Virtues Henricus ab Heer 's hath written a particular Treatise entitled Spadacrene to which I refer the Reader that is desirous to know more of them In the Woods and upon the Rocks near this Town we found many rare Plants which we had not before met with I mean spontaneously growing in their natural places viz. Asclepias flore albo Polygonatum minus Cyanus major Rapunculus spicatus Campanula persicifolia Sideritis flore pallido similis Ladano segetum c. June 28. From the Spaw we travelled to Aken passing through Limbourg three hours distant a Town considerable for its Strength being situate on the side of a Hill and encompassed with a strong Wall and Trench not for its Bigness it consisting only of one short broad Street nor for its Beauty the Buildings being all of Wood. The Garrison at our being there was about 300 Soldiers Before we entred the Town we were met upon the way by some of these Soldiers who very insolently stopt our Horses demanding Money of us which we were forced to give according to their discretion before they would let us pass which though it were no considerable Sum yet was more than we were willing should be violently extorted from us When we were past the Town we met also with many of these Straglers by whom it was told us many Robberies are committed hereabout Aken called by the French Aix la Chappelle to distinguish it I suppose from Aix in Provence is a free City of the Empire very considerable for its Strength and Greatness being encompassed with a double Wall and having in it 30 Churches About now some 15 years ago here happened a lamentable Fire which almost ruined the Town burning down to the ground 4500 Houses from which Calamity it was not half recovered at the time of our being there In the great Piazza or Market-place is a handsom Fountain with this Inscription about the edges of the Basin Hîc aquis per Granum Principem quendam Romanum Neronis Agrippae fratrem inventis calidorum fontium thermae à principio constructae postea verò per D. Carolum Magnum Imp. constituto ut locus hic sit caput regni sedes trans Alpes renovatae sunt quibus thermis hîc gelidus fons influxit olint quem nunc demum hoc aeneo vase illustravit S. P. Q. Aquisgranensis Anno Domini 1620. The Iron Crown wherewith the Emperor is crown'd and the Sword of Charlemaigne which he holds when he is crown'd and is obliged to wear by his side three days together and wherewith he creates Noblemen as also the Gospels said to be written by the Evangelists own hands are here kept and every Coronation sent to Frankfurt The Chair wherein the Emperor sits when he is crown'd here hath its Sides of Ivory and its Bottom as they fondly imagine of the Wood of Noah's Ark. This City according to the best information we could get there is governed by a Maior two Consuls or Burgomasters fourteen Scabins and about 120 Senators or Counsellors The Maior is President of the Scabins and executes their Sentences he is put in by the Duke of Gulick and continues during Life modò bene se gesserit The Consuls are chosen by the Suffrage of the several Companies of the City and continue two years modò bene se gesserint every year there is one chosen One that is no Senator may be chosen Consul or Burgomaster and yet these have the chief power The Scabins are Judges and continue during Life when one of them dies the rest chuse another in his place The Senators are chosen by the several Companies of which there are about fourteen or fifteen in this City Every Company chuses eight Half the Senate are yearly chosen The Territory of this City is large containing about 200 Villages and is for the most part encompassed with Mountains We saw here the manner of making Brass of Copper by mingling and melting therewith Lapis Calaminaris which changes the colour thereof from red to yellow and increaseth the weight by thirty in the Hundred But that for which this Place is most remarkable and from which it took its Name are the Hot Baths of which there are several within the Walls and others without at Borcet a great Village less than an English mile distant The Waters of Borcet at the Sources where they issue out of the Earth are much hotter than those of the Bath in England and the Springs more plentiful The People there told us and I can easily believe them that they will serve to boil Eggs in Their Tast seemed to us saltish They are used outwardly for Bathing and taken inwardly for many Diseases As we walked to Borcet we could not but take notice of a Pool whose Waters were almost tepid by reason of a little Stream from the Hot Baths running through it wherein we were assured were bred and fed good store of Fish which are put into cold Water for a moneth or two before they eat them But of the Nature Kinds Ingredients and Uses of the several hot Waters as well those of the City as of Borcet the following abstract of an Epistolary Discourse concerning them written in French and published by Francis Bloudel M. D. will give the Reader more particular Information Observations concerning the Baths of Aken collected out of an Epistolary Discourse Published in French by Francis Blondel M. D. NOt to trouble the Reader with the various Opinions of Antient and Modern Philosophers concerning the Cause of the actual Heat of natural Baths our Authors accompt thereof in reference to these of Aken is in brief as follows These Waters saith he passing through a certain argillaceous Earth pregnant with a kind of nitrous Salt almost of the same tast with the Waters of the Baths which is to be found in good quantity in the lands about this City charge themselves therewith and so become a menstruum capable of dissolving such Minerals and Metals as are conteined in the Veins of the Earth through which they run This Solution he conceives is made by piercing
probably because it is open or uncovered II. The second or Sulphureo-nitrous sort of Compus c. though they spring up in several places and have different Wells yet is the Nature of them all their Composition and Mineral Ingredients the same The Poor mens Bath hath one great Basin or Receptacle the Rose Bath four whereof two only are used and S. Cornelius's Bath of this Mine two These Waters are fit for use at all seasons being of a temperate Heat more efficacious and of greater force in their Operations than the first sort they weigh two per Cent. more than they and are of a stronger Sent. In these is never found any Sulphur condensed no not in their Wells though they be covered but when they are emptied and new Water let in as in the Rose-Bath the Water running down along the Walls and Seats into the bottom of the Basins or Conservatories the external Air prevailing upon it so spread and in such little quantity arrests fixes and condenses its Sulphur all along the said Walls and Seats refreshing the eyes of the Spectators with its Beauty and Lustre But the Water arising in the fore-mentioned Basins and covering the Seats and Walls the Sulphur again unites and incorporates with its Dissolvent and disappears and hides itself therein The Water of these Sources conteins great quantity of Sulphur very fine and sweet less nitrous Salt a little Vitriol and less Alum more of the other Minerals and Metals than the first sort or those of Borcet So that they are more compounded oleous and bituminous than any of the other Sources and though they come out of the Earth very temperate as to actual Heat yet can sick persons hardly endure them for any long time for the most part scarce half an hour III. The third sort which I call Sulphureo-nitro-vitriolic and is also of S. Cornclius differs from the precedent in that the Tast is a little more acid the Smell sweeter and liker that of Spirit of Vitriol and the Touch less oily It is of less Efficacy in use than the second sort and of more than the first Of this Source there are three Basins which with the two others of S. Cornelius before-mentioned make five in this House These Waters do agree much what in their Composition with the precedent They are very pure and clear especially in their Wells and though they seem troubled in their Basins yet taken in a Glass they appear clear IV. The fourth or Salso-alumino-nitrous kind are those of the Neighbourhood or Borcet These come out of the Earth extreme hot and in great abundance are all of the same Medicinal Quality have several Wells and are reserved in ten or twelve Houses each whereof hath two Basins or Receptacles besides which there is a common Bath exposed to the Air for the use of poor people These Waters cast off a copious Excrement or Tartar which yet is not Stone but only a Sand mingled with and united to the nitrous and aluminous Salt of the Water coagulated by the beating of the cold Air on its Superficies to which also concurs the cold of the Walls exposed to the same Air. These Excrescencies are found in the subterrancous Conduits not only of these but the other Baths in the City being held to the Fire they soon become friable and are nothing but a pure round Sand like the common The higher Houses and Basins have the more of this Tartar yet is it so little that it is not to be seen or perceived in the Water These Waters are of a different Species Virtue and Operation from those of the City are very easie to suffer and serve often for Divertisement and Recreation to persons that are in health The content of them is a great quantity of Sea-Salt and Alum less nitrous Salt a very little Sulphur and not much of Metallic Substances Concerning the Virtues and Effects of these Waters inwardly taken he discourses to this purpose These Waters taken inwardly are very available against the Phthisic Asthma or Difficulty of Breathing occasioned by tough Phlegm lodging in the branches of the Wind-Pipe against the Weakness of the Stomach Indigestion Crudities Flatulencies Vomitings Hiccoughs and inveterate Colics They dissipate and dry up all manner of Catarrhs and serous De●luxions and are very proper to be drunk by those that are troubled with the Palsie before the use of the Baths They quicken the Appetite cleanse the Blood and open the obstructions of the Mesentery They are of excellent use against Hypochondriacal Maladies especially in such as have weak and cold Stomachs They mollifie the hardness of the Liver Spleen and Mesentery They dissolve and bring away the Gravel of the Reins and the lesser Stones And here he produces many Examples of such as avoided Stones upon the drinking these Waters and among the rest of some that had drank the Spaw Waters and came from thence without reciving any Benefit They cleanse the Ulcers of the Bladder dissolving not only the gross phlegmatic and viscous Humours which coagulate the Stone but even the Stone itself whilst it is yet tender They have sometimes cured intermittent Fevers of long continuance and scrophulous Tumors They dry up and heal the Itch Leprosie and other Affections of the Skin They stop the immoderate Flowing of the Menses in Women and cure the Jaundise the Paleness and Discolouring of the Skin in Virgins and finally they give ease and relief in the Gout Of all these Faculties he brings Instances and Examples in Persons that have been cured Particularly that these Waters drunk may have a power of dissolving the Stone he proves by this Experiment Taking a Stone voided by a man about two years before and infusing it in Water hot from the Fountain for the space of three days we found it saith he mollified and reduced into a soft Phlegm Which Virtue of the Waters was further confirmed to us by a late Accident for opening the Vault of a Well there was found a certain Glue or Mucilage which it 's to me probable came from the solution of the Morter of Lime and Sand in long time by the volatile and dissolvent Spirits of the Waters especially there being found no other Cement between the Stones and in that this same Glue or Mucilage mingled itself intirely with the Waters of the Fountains without any appearance of Scum or Fat swimming on the top so as Gum of Cherry or the like is wont to do in Water and being cast into the Fire burnt not but dried up These Experiments and Observations were made upon occasion of a Burgomaster of Riga who being afflicted with the Stone drank these Waters his passing his Urine through a Linen Cloth and finding therein a certain thick Phlegm left behind which being kept a while upon Paper hardned into a stony Substance From Aken June 29. we travelled through a small walled place called Altenhoven to Gulick five hours distant This is an elegant little Town built
an experiment invented at Florence viz. Two glass-bubbles being put into a vessel of water were so alternately moved that in cold water the one sank to the bottom the other swam on the top but putting in a little hot water they changed places that at the bottom ascending up to the top and that on the top sinking down to the bottom Being taken with the novity of the thing I applyed my mind to consider what might be the Physical reson of it and soon found out how it might be effected to wit one of these Glass-bubbles was perforated with a little hole on the heavier side and blown so light as to swim in water then some of the air being suckt out there was so much water let in in the room thereof as to make the bubble sink in cold water which upon filling the Vessel with hot water would mount up to the top For the air in the bubble being rarefied or dilated by the heat of the water presently expells the water contained in the bubble and so the bubble becoming lighter ascends The other glass-bubble is imperforate and made of that poise as to swim in cold water and sink in hot He goes on Sed cùm in ejusmodi ludicris inventis occuparemur rumor ad aures nostras perfertur versari in manibus viri cujusdam ingeniosi admirabile artificium nempe vitreum tubum aquâ plenum in quae plures orbiculi vitrei sursum deorsumque ferebantur ad nutum ejus qui tubi ostium digito obturabat Tum eò cogita●ionem intendi ut qua rationeid fieri posset assequerer neque diu haesitaveram cùm intellexi orbiculos illos esse aliquanto levioures aqua foramina habere per qua digiti pressu aqua intruderetur aere intus contento in minus spatium coacto ut proinde orbiculi graviores facti fundum peterent at mox digito laxato dum aer sese iterum ad debitam expansionem redigeret aquam per foramen extrudi atque idcirco orbiculos levioures factos iterum sursum adsurgere Quibus animadversis memoria mihi suggesit ea quae aliàs meditatus eram de impulsu aquae in cavum orbis infra illam demersi cujus supra facta est mentio Quamobrem existimavi posse orbiculos perforatos sursum vel deorsum ferri in medio libratos detineri absque ulla caloris aut frigoris vi Item sine ullo digiti manúsve pressu sed tantùm impulsu ipsius aquae quae modò majorem modò minorem altitudinem supra dictos orbiculos assequeretur hoc scilicet modo At verò positis globulis ut ferè semper contingit aliquo gravitatis excessu sese superantibus tunc poterimus multiformi ter illos movere namque alter pessum ibit dum reliqui sursum feruntur item alius quovis in loco quasi libratus pendebit si scilicet organum tantundem inclinemus quantum ad opus requiri experientiâ didicerimus Ratio cur haec ità contingant manifesta est ex iis quae jam exposuimus de aqua quae in orbiculos eò ● opiosiùs intruditur quo fuerit altior ut accidit cùm tubus AB ad horizontis planum erectum fuerit nam ex inclinatione ipsius tubi aquae altitudo decrescit ac proinde ejus vis seu conatus fit minor Structuram vitrei tubi usus docebit Id curandum est petissimùm ut ejusdem crura AB DB quodammodo parallela sint altitudo autem BA altitudini BD tripla vel quadrupla Tubus aequalem ubique habeat amplitudinem vel in crure BA sit aliquanto amplior quàm in crure BD. Orbiculi eâ parte quae pertusa est praeponderent ut dum in aqua librantur foramina deorsum vergant c. A Nobleman of this City shewed us a Boy who had a faculty of charging his belly with wind and discharging it again backward at pleasure which we saw him perform When he charged himself he lay upon his hands and knees and put his head on the ground almost between his legs The same Nobleman shewed us the experiment and gave us the receipt of a fulminating powder which will do almost as well as that chargeable one made of gold Take of salt of Tartar one part of common Brimstone two parts of Nitre or Salt-peter three parts put these three all at once into a Mortar beat them fine and mingle them well together Take of this powder and put it on a plate of iron or in a fire-pan or other vessel and hold it over a flame of fire or a pan of charcoal When the powder begins to melt it will explode with a very smart crack like to Aurum fulminans The same or the like fulminating powder hath been since shewn us by Mr. Fisher of Sheffield It is not unlikely that there may be several sorts of powder made which shall explode and fulminate after this fashion The same Gentleman also shew'd us the whole process of making Venice-Sope which is very like and nothing inferiour to Castile-Sope It is made of the best Oil Olive and a lixivium or Lye The lixivium is thus made They take of the ashes of Kali made in Spain and in England known by the name of Beriglia two thirds of Kelp i. e. the ashes of the ordinary Sea-wrack one third These they break into small pieces with a mallet or hammer and mingle well together This done they put them into a mill such as we grind apples in to make Cider and grind them to powder and then sift them This powder they mingle with a little slaked lime and make it up into pellets which they put into letches or troughs and pouring water upon them make the Lixivium The Cauldrons wherein they boil their Sope are very large The bottom of them is a copper vessel but the sides are made up of stone close cemented together bound about with iron hoops and enclosed in a case of Wood. Into these Cauldrons they put a great quantity of Oil it may be one third part of the measure or more or less as they please then they fill them up with the lixivium and putting fire under it cause it to boil continually as the lixivium boils away still filling it up with new till all the oil be consumed or boiled out of it For the oil uniting it self with the salt of the lixivium rises continually up to the top in the form of a scum or froth which by degrees grows thicker and thicker and by reason of the cold of the air condenses into that body we call Sope. This scum continues to rise so long as there is any oil remaining in the vessels the cremor or coat of Sope growing still thicker Those that are practised can tell by the smell when all the oil is boiled away The lixivium they account strong enough so long as it will bear an egg This lixivium they make of Sea water but they told us they might as well make
in Sioily c. they make salt of the Sea-water drawn into shallow pools and evaporated by the Sun-beams in Summer time First they let the water into a large shallow plain like the cooler in a Brew-house and there being well heated they run 〈◊〉 into several shallow beds like the beds of a garden when the Sun hath dried up all the water they let in more and so again 3 or 4 times till the salt remaining at the bottom of these receptacles come to be 3 fingers thick and then they take it up with shovels and heap it on little hills but the whole process of this operation being exactly described in the Philosophical Transact Numb 51. page 1025. I shall forbear to enlarge any further concerning it Now that I have mentioned Martegue I shall add the manner of making Botargo out of Mr. F. Willughbye's notes At Martegue they take abundance of Mullets Mugiles not mulli as one would be apt to think by the English name in their Burdigos which are places in the shallows enclosed with hedges of reeds The male Mullets are called Allettants because they shed the milt Lac piscium The females Botar of the rows or spawn of which Botargo is made They first take out the spawn entire and cover it round with salt for 4 or 5 hours then they press it a little between two boards or stones then they wash it and at last dry it in the Sun for 13 or 14 days taking it in at nights Decemb. 7. 1665. from Montpellier we made an excursive voyage into Provence The principal Cities and Towns that we saw were 1. Lunel about 4 leagues distant from Montpellier 2. Arles a considerable City once the head of a Kingdom called anciently Arelate standing upon the river Rhosne which a good way above this City divides it self into two branches and makes an Isalnd called the Camarg All this Island is full of Vermicularis frutex growing by the ditch sides all along Beyond this City in the way to Marseilles we passed over a large plain or level all over covered with stones called now the Craux or les Champs pierreux anciently Campi lapidei to 3. S. Chamas a large burgh standing upon the ridge and on each side a narrow hill which is perforated like Pausilypus Upon the rocks near this town I found Seseli Aethiopicum frutex growing in great plenty as also Alypum montis Ceti Coris Monspessulana Ruta sylvestris minor Colutea caule Genistae fungoso J. B. We observed also this day all along as we rode upon the hills and by the way sides our common Furze or Genista spinosa 4. Marseilles an ancient City not great but well built with tall stone-houses for the most part and very populous We were told that the number of souls was about 120000. The streets are narrow as in most of the ancient Towns in this Countrey to keep off the scorching beams of the Sun in Summer time The haven is the most secure and commodious that I have seen the entrance into it so strait and narrow that a man may easily cast a stone cross it but the haven within large enough to contain 500 vessels or more of an oval figure On one side of this haven the Town is built which compasses it more than half round having before it a handsome kay well paved which serves the Citizens for a walk or Promenade This haven is not capable of ships of above 600 tun On the rocks near this Town I found growing plentifully the same Colutea I observed at S. Chamas Valeriana rubra Dod. Carduus galactites J. B. By the Sea side Tragacantha Massiliensium plentifully After luteus supinus J. B. Tithymalus myrsinites angustifolius Coronopus Massiliensis Lob. 5. Bausset 6. Olliole two little Towns 7. Toulon no great Town but well fortified and the best haven the King of France hath on the Mediterranean Sea having large bay capable of the greatest vessels where there is good riding for ships At Toulon they make holes in their stone-walls at three or four foot distance near the ground and there plant capers the fruit whereof they prepare and pickle after this fashion They gather the buds or blossoms of the flowers before they be explicated and spreading them thin lay them in the shade to wither for three or four hours to prevent the opening of the flower Then they put them in a vessel and pour vinegar upon them covering the vessel with a board and so let them stand for nine days at the end whereof they take them out and press them gently and put them in fresh vinegar letting them stand as long as before this done the third time they put them up in barrels with vinegar Some mingle salt with their vinegar which is the best way and preserves the Cipers for three years both for colour and taste as good as at the first I observed near Bausset great plenty of Myrtle in the hedges near Olliole Acanthus sativus Althaeai●rutestens folio rotundiore incano C. B. Fumaria minor sive tenuifolia surrecta J. B. Acacia trifolia Tencrium vulgare Arisarum latifolium Chrysocome Ger. 8. S. Maximine near which is the famous Gro● of Mary Magdalen called S. Baulme 9. Aix anciently Aquae Sextiae from the hot baths that are there This is a very elegant and pleasant City well built with fair stone houses having broad streets and handsome piazzas 10. Selogne Salonia In the Cordeliers Church lies buried Nostradamus the famous French Prophet whose verses the Franch-men esteem as oracles In the Church wall is placed a stone with this inscription to his memory D. M. Clariss ossa M. Nostradami unius omnium mortalium judicio digni cujus penè divino calamo totius orbis ex astrorum influxu futuri eventus conscriberentur Vixit an 62. m. 6. d. 10. Obiit Salo MDLXVI Quietem posteri nè invidete Anna Pontia Gemella Salonia conjugi optimo V. F. 11. Aiguemortes a small Town but of great strength near the Sea in a fenny place some 6 leagues distant from Montpellier From Montpellier we returned to Lions from Lions we travelled with the Messenger to Paris from Paris again to Calais and so cross the Strait to Dover whence we at first set out and began our Journey A Relation of a Voyage made through a great part of Spain by Francis Willughby Esq containing the chief Observables he met with there collected out of his Notes AVgust 31. 1664. we left Bagnols in the County of Roussillon being the last or furthest Town belonging to the French and at about ¾ of a leagues distance came to a great stone erected heer for a boundary between France and Spain and passing very bad way among desolate mountains after many hours riding we came to Lansa the first Town of the King of Spains Countrey All along these mountains grew Rosemary common Furze or Gorsse and Agnus castus of two sorts the one
the Antiquities of Augusta Rauracorum formerly a great City now a Village called Augst not far distant from Basil The great Church or Cathedral at Basil was built by the Emperor Henry II. who married Cunigunda the Daughter of an English King S. Pantalus an English man was the first Bishop here The graver sort of Citizens and Magistrates wear Ruffs and Steeple-Caps The Professors and Ministers wear the same Caps and Ruffs and besides short Gowns which reach little lower than their Knees Many of the Countrey-Boors wear Straw-Hats The Women wear their Coats very short and some of them little round Caps on their Heads very like the young Scholars Caps in Cambridge but less and a Tin-Girdle about their Wasts We saw in this City Dr. Fel. Platerus his Musaeum or Cabinet wherein there is a good Collection of Minerals Stones Metals dried Fishes and other natural and artificial Rarities gathered by Tho. Platerus the Father and Fel. Platerus the Son and disposed in a good Method the Names being set to each one Here and at Zurich are Sermons every day in the week at several Churches David George that monstrous Fanatic died in this City at whose Death there happened a great Tempest of Thunder and Lightning and a Thunder-bolt brake into his House About Basil we found growing wild beside what we had before met withal Scrophularia Ruta canina dicta Passerina Tragi among the Corn. Phalangium parvo flore ramosius Blitum minus album J. B. in fimetis Cymbalaria Italica hederacea in muris urbis ad portam quae Argentinam ducit Stoebe major calyculis non splendentibus in marginibus agrorum muris passim toto itinere à Frankendaliâ ad Basileam usque Polium montanum Lavendulae folio Consolida media Genevensis J. B. Cneorum Matthioli seu Thymelaea minor Cordi But if any one desires a more particular account of what Plants grow wild about Basil C. Ba●thinus his Catalogus Plantarum circa Basileam nascentium will give him full satisfaction August 10. from Basil we set forward for Zurich At the end of one Dutch mile we passed Augst supposed to have been Augusta Rauracorum There we view'd the Ruines of an antient Building judged by Amberbachius to have been an Amphitheater Next we rode fast by a wall'd Town on the Rhene subject to the Archduke of Inspruck On the Hills hereabout we first saw Fir-trees growing wild Then we passed through Bruck a pretty little walled Town having one handsom Street well built with tall Houses of Stone and Fountains in the middle and lodged at the Baths of Baden six miles distant from Basil This day we first took notice of the little green Tree-Frogs The Baths here are said to be sixty in number but small the Water is very hot Baden is a walled Town seated on the side of a Hill by the River Limagus about half an English mile distant from the Baths Here the Delegates of the thirteen Cantons meet and sit The poor People put a Cheat upon Strangers bringing them to sell as they pretend fossile Dice which they say they dig out of the Earth naturally so figured and marked But I am well assured such as they brought us were artificial Dice and if they dig'd them out of the Earth they first buried them there themselves From Baden Aug. 11. we rode along by the Limagus on one hand and fair Vineyards on the other to Zurich Zurich is pleasantly situate at the end of a Lake call'd Zurich-Sea scarce so big as Basil but I think more populous The River Limagus which runs out of the Lake divides it into two almost equal parts which are joined together by two Bridges one very broad for Carts and Horses to pass over The Houses are built of Timber with Clay-Walls handsomly painted many of them four or five Stories high The Streets are narrow but well paved with Flints and great Pebbles This City is as well fortified as the Situation of it will permit besides the Wall being encompassed round with good Earthworks and Trenches after the modern fashion The River Sele runs by and gives defence to it on the South side and a little lower empties itself into the Limagus The Citizens are given to Merchandise all very busie and industrious They either are rich or at least so esteemed and therefore envied by their Neighbours of the Romish Religion Here are no Guards of Soldiers at the City-Gates no Strangers examined or searcht either at coming in or going out We observed the colour of the Water of the Zurich-Sea to be greenish and well approaching to that of sea-Sea-water Afterwards we found the Water of all the Lakes and Rivers near the Alpes to be of the same colour at which we were not a little surprised For we were wont to attribute that colour in the Sea-water to the mixture of Salt that is in it whereas the Water of these Lakes and Rivers discovers to the Tast nothing of Salt or brackish But afterwards considering that these Waters did consist for the most part of Snow dissolved and that Snow is supposed to contein good store of nitrous Salt we thought it not altogether improbable that this Colour may be owing to the nitrous Particles remaining in the Water though they be not copious enough to affect our Tast and it would be worth the while to distil good quantities of this Water to see whether it would leave any Salt behind That these Lakes and Rivers do consist for the most part of Snow-water it is manifest for that upon the Mountains excepting the lower parts of them no Rain falls in Winter-time but only Snow with which the higher parts of them are covered to a great thickness for at least six moneths in the year and for that the Rivers that flow from the Alpes run lowest in Winter and abound most with Water in the Summer-time so that sometimes they overflow their Banks in the hottest moneths of the year and when no Rain falls as my self can testifie concerning the River Rhodanus because the Sun at the season melts the Snow upon the Mountains Hence it appears that their Opinion was not so absurd who attributed the yearly Increase and Overflowing of the River Nilus to the dissolution of the Snow upon those Mountains where it hath its first Rise Though I do not think this to be the true Cause partly because that part of the Earth where those Mountains lie is so hot by reason of its Situation under the direct and sometimes perpendicular Beams of the Sun that it 's not likely any Snow should fall much less lie there chiefly because Travellers generally agree that in most parts of that Climate where those Mountains lie there are at that time of the year great falls of Rain to which therefore the Overflowing of Nilus is more probably attributed The Government of this City is by a greater and a lesser Council The lesser Council consists of 50 viz. 24 Tribunes or
Vilshoven belonging to Bavaria Sept. 13. At four miles distance from Vilshoven we came to Passaw a considerable city for its strength and greatness formerly well built with many fair stone houses But about three quarters of a year before our being there a most dreadful Fire burnt down ruin'd and destroy'd almost the whole Town Churches public buildings and all It is situate just at the confluence of the rivers In and Danow and subject to the Archduke of Inspruck who we were told gave 50000 dollars towards the rebuilding of it Heer is a bridge over the river In to a town called Instat Hitherto the river Danow flowed gently down but below Passaw it began to be streightned by hills on both sides and to run with a swifter stream Seven miles from Passaw we passed by Nayhonse castle and this third night lodged at a pretty little village belonging to the Emperor called Asch standing on the right side of the river Sept. 14. we had an open countrey again no hills being near the river At four miles end we landed at Lintz and viewed the city which we found to be a very elegant place well built with stone houses flat rooft after the Italian fashion having a large square Piazza with two fountains in it and on the highest part a fair palace of the Emperor whence there is a pleasant prospect of the Danow and Countrey adjacent About three miles below Lintz we passed a pretty village on our left hand called Malhausen Then we had a prospect of a town on our right hand situate upon the river Ens called Intz. Seven miles below Lintz are hills again on both sides the river Heerabouts is a village called Greine where the Earl of Lichtenstein hath a house situate on a hill Below Greine on the left hand is a little village where we past a dangerous place in the river called Strom where the stream being streightned by hills on each hand runs very swiftly and besides is full of rocks a little further below a rock which jets a good way out into the river we passed a violent whirtl-pool called the Werble At some distance further on the left hand stands a small village under a high hill half whereof fell down about two years before our being there which made so great a noise that it was heard two German miles off at Ips a little town we passed by on the right hand We lodged this fourth night at a small village called Morpach 11 miles from Lintz Sept. 15. in the morning we went by a rich cloister called Melk on our right At six miles distance from our lodging we passed a fair house of the Earl of Dernstein's on our left hand and heerabout had a prospect of Ketwein a rich Abby strongly situate on a hill attempted by the Swedes without succchess About nine miles from Marbach we passed under a wooden bridge by a little walled town called Stein where the Swedes they told us were notably beaten and driven out again after they had entred the town which repulse they afterwards revenged when they took the place by plundering and spoiling it Not far hence we landed to view Krembs a considerable city seated on the side of a hill well-built walled about and trenched towards the river From hence we came into an open countrey and the river being at liberty the chanel grew much wider Six miles below Krembs we passed by a small walled Town oh the right hand called Deuln then we had the prospect of Greitenstein a castle situate on a hill at some distance from the river on the left hand next we had a sight of Cornberg a wall'd town in a plain not far from the Danow taken by the Swedes in the late wars and by them notably defended against the Emperor Heer and afterward at several other places we observed mills built upon two boats the wheel lying between the boats which are fixed at a convenient distance one from another and so the stream coming between the boats and by reason it is streightned by degrees running more swiftly turns the wheel One of the boats is by strong cables or chains at each end fastned to the bank and so the boats mill and all rise and fall with the water About a mile and half before we reach'd Vienna we went by a fair rich Abby called Claisternaiberg with a little wall'd town of the same name and at the end of 19 German miles which the swiftness of the current assisting us we made this day we arrived at Vienna the chief city of Austria and at present the imperial seat so called from the river Wien which runs into the Danow no the East side of the Town It is for the bigness of it the most frequent and full of people that we have yet seen beyond the seas The wall is not above four or five English miles in circuit but there are large Suburbs at a little distance from the town those houses that were very near being lately pull'd down to clear the wall and works for fear of a Siege The Tures at the time of our being there having taken Neuhausel and news coming that they were marching with their whole army towards Presburg in Hungary not above 40 English miles distant from Vienna This City is regularly and strongly fortified with a high and impenetrable wall of earth faced with brick a broad and deep trench into which they can as they told us when they please draw the water Bastions half-moons and horn-words c. that it is justly reputed one of the strongest holds of Christendom The inner wall which was said to be built with the ransom of Richard I. King of England is of little strength or consideration in comparison with the new and outer one The houses are sufficiently tall and well built of stone the roofs flattish after the Italian mode The streets rather narrow than broad the markets well stored with all necessaries Heer we first met with tortoises to be sold at the rate of six pence apiece they are found in muddy ditches in these parts Heer also we first took notice of the fruit of Sorbus legitima and first saw in the fish-markets the Silurus or Sheat-fish the greatest of all fresh-water fish that we have seen some of them weighing above 100 pound The Emperors palace the Cathedral church and other public buildings deserve remembrance were it my design minutely to describe places The Emperor is of a mean stature and dark complexion thin-visaged his hair black his under-lip thick and hanging down a little much like his effigies on his coin As for plants we found heerabout Onobrychis spicata flore purpureo Psyllium vulgare Kalispinosum at this distance from the Sea Scabiosa foliis dissectis flore albo vel 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Clus Dorycnio congener in great plenty Marrubium album angustifolium peregrinum C. B. as it seemed to me In the Island of Danubius near Vienna Aristolochia
Clematitis Solanum vesicarium sive Alkekengi plentifully We hired a coach for Venice and began our journey thitherward and this night lodged at a great Village called Trayskerk four miles distant from Vienna by the way-side we found store of Absinthium Austriacum ●enuifolium Clus At four miles end we came to Neustat Neapolis Austriaca they call it well walled and trencht about of a square figure mean bigness handsomly built having streight streets and a fair square market-place At three of the corners are mounts or bastions and at the fourth a Castle In the layes near this town I first found Asperula caerulea Two miles beyond Neustat we began to leave the open countrey and to come among hills We lodged this night at a village called Gluknitz four miles distant from Neustat The houses in these villages are for the most part covered with shingles of wood the hills clothed with woods of Pine After two miles riding we came to a village called Schadwyen or Shadwin seated between the mountains and enclosed with a gate at each end Heer we alighted and our Coachman hired ten oxen which stood there ready for that purpose to draw his Coach up a steep ascent to the top of the hills which part Austria and Stiria On the sides and top of this hill we found these plants Libanotis Theophrasti minor Park Cyclamen autumnale of two sorts Tussilago Alpina folio rotundo A sort of small Trachelium that I have not elsewhere seen A small sort of Muscus clavatus with leaves like Juniper Larix abundantly Lysimachia lutea in alis foliorum florens A kind of Glaux with a rough cod Gentiana folio Asclepiadis abundantly and many others that we had before met with In this journey we also found Muscus denticulatus major in the shady lanes in many places and in watery and springy places Alsine muscosa J. B. further on we came to a little wall'd place near the river Muercz called Mertzuschlag Heerabout are many mills and sithes and sickles made heer then we passed through a village called Langenwang where stands a castle on a hill after that another called Kriegla where we crost the river This afternoon we passed through a pleasant valley among woody mountains and at night took up our loding at Kimberg a large village six long miles distant from Glocknitz We travelled along the same valley and passed through a great village called Kapsuberg besides many other villages castles and Gentlemens houses on the sides of the hills which we rode near to and at three miles end came to Pruck an der Mure i. e. Bons Muroe a fair town for this Countrey and walled about having a large market-place with a fountain in it Proaeding on in the same valley some two leagues further we passed Lewben a very neat pleasant and well-built walled town better than we expected to have found any in this mountainous Countrey It hath a fair market-place with fountains And we observed much Iron lying in the streets which is heer made and wherewith the inhabitants drive a great trade Heer we crossed the Mura twice and soon after we were past Lewben we rode over a hill and following the course of the said river among the mountains at evening we came to a village called S. Michael where we lodged We saw in these parts many men and women with large swellings under their chins or on their throats called in Latin or rather in Greec Bronchocelt and by some in English Bavarian P●●kes Some of them were single others double and treble This is a disease which these Alpine Nations have of old been subject to Quis tumidum guttur miretur in Al●plbvs Yet among the Grisons who live on the highest parts of the Alps I do not remember to have seen any of these ●I dare say there are not half so many thereabouts as in these Countries What should be the Cause of this evil whether the drinking of Snow-water or water infected with the vi●ose steams and particles of Mercury or other minerals and metals wherewith in all probability those mountains abound is no easie matter to determin For on the one hand in some mountainous countries where the snow lies as long as it doth-heer and consequently their waters are little else then snow dissolved we shall find very few infected with this disease and on the other hand as few in Hungary Transylvania and other countries abounding with mercury and other minerals We must therefore suspend till some ingenious Physician of these Countries by long and diligent observing what causes or occasions these Tumours and likewise what prevents and cures them instructs us better We also observed in these Countries more Idiots and delirous persons than any where else which we imputed sometime to the snow-water sometime to the inordinate eating of Cabbage of which in all the market-towns we saw monstrous heaps lying to be sold But upon further consideration I think with Palmarius it ought rather to be attributed to the mineral steams that infect their waters especially Mercurial For we see the vapour of Quicksilver doth principally affect the brain and nervose parts begetting palsies and deliriums in Painters Gilders Miners and those that are much conversant about it We travelled on by the river Mures side to Knittlefield a walled town three miles from S. Michael and then proceeding along the same valley we passed by some Noblemens houses and castles and lodged at a village upon the Mure called S. Georgio four miles from Knittefield We travelled on in the same valley by the river Mure till we came to Newmarkt a little walled place four miles from S. Georgio Then we followed the course of another little river which runs into the Dravus about Volckmarck in a narrow valley between high hills and a mile from Newmarkt we came to a considerable wall'd town called Freisach in which are four cloisters A mile further we came to Heirt in Carinthia where we lay this night We rode rocky ways through valleys to S. Veit or Vit a wall'd town of some note three miles distant from Heirt The Emperor hath a Mint-house for coining money heer Proceeding on three miles further we arrived at Vilkircken which had been a market-Town of note but about three years since a lamentable Fire burnt it down to the ground We rode very rugged way among the mountains and rocks passing the whole length of a Lake called Oostsukersey and at the further end of it observed a strong castle seated on a high hill belonging to the Earl of Dietrichstein a Prince of the Empire who coins money Then we came down into a pleasant valley and so over the river Dravus which is heer navigable and runs by the walls of Villach a well-built town and one of the chief of this Countrey three miles distant from Vilkerck A good distance from Villach we passed the Guile a considerable
river falling into the Dravus and had very rocky way among high mountains till we came to Orlesteina a village where we lodged We travelled among high mountains very bad way to a village called Klein Tarvis two miles and proceeding on still among the mountains we came to the river Timent which runs into the Adriatic Sea and lodged this night at Pontieba the last town we passed in the Emperors countrey part of it is subject to the Emperor called Pontieba Imperiale and part to the Venetians called Pontieba Veneta where we took a bill of health for Venice Between Klein Tarvis and Pontieba we saw a herd of Goats following the Goat-herd like so many dogs in other places we have seen sheep in that manner following their shepherd which no doubt was usual in Judaea for our Saviour John 10. 4. comparing himself to a shepherd and his disciples and servants to sheep saith And he goeth before his sheep and they follow him for Which would have seemed strange to the hearers had the shepherds been wont only to drive their sheep as with us they do We past over the river Timent by a bridge that parts Carinthia from Friuli About a German mile off we came to a little fort in a village called Clausen where are two draw-bridges which we were not permitted to pass till we had delivered our bill of health Hence we travelled along by the river and observed timber-trees floted down the stream and when the rocks stopped them men with hooks put them off and directed them into the force of the current This is the manner all over the Alps and other high mountains they fell trees and get them to any little current of water and expect a good shot of rain and then flote them down to the greater rivers This day we passed Vensonga a pretty little wall'd town and lodged at Hospitaletto a large village where we got quit of the mountains and came into the plain Countrey of Friuli We passed by Limonia a wall'd town situate on the rising of a hill at the foot of the mountains Some miles further we passed S. Danicle then we forded the river Timent in several places The river heerabouts in a time of rain or when the snow melts on the mountains spreads itself to a very great breadth as appears by the empty chanel Soon after we had passed the river we ascended a cliff and entred the walls of a little town called Spilimberg where were rows or cloisters on each side the street under the houses which we after found in many of the towns of Lombardy ten Italian miles further riding brought us to S. Avogio a village where we rested this night We rode along the plains and at ten miles end came to Saribe a walled town where the river Livenza divides itself and encompasseth the wall From hence we drove on about two Dutoh miles and lodged at Conegliano a wall'd Town seated on the ridge of a hill a place of good account as is also Saribe All the way we travelled in Italy hitherto we had little other bread than what was made of Sorghum a grain the blade whereof arises to seven or eight foot highth and is as great as ones finger bearing a large panicle on the top the berry or seed being bigger than that of wheat and of a dusky colour We rode a Dutch mile and then ferried over the river Anaxus or Piave and at ten Italiam miles further come to Treaviso a large Town the head of a Province called Marea Trevisana an important place for strength but too near and too obnoxious to Venice to be rich From Treviso we rode through a very fertil and well cultivated countrey to Mestre a little Town by the Lagnne so they call the Flats about Venice which are all covered with water when the Tide is in where we took boat for Venice Upon the mountains we passed over this voyage we found a great number of plants we had not before met with as Quinquifolium alb●m majus caulesc●●● C. B. Quinquefolium album majus alterum C. B. Teucrium Alpinum Cisti flore Epimcdium vilgae Linaria purpurea parva J. B. And not far from Pontieba on Italy side upon the rocks Ledum Alpinum hirsutum C. B. Ledum Alpinum hirsutum minus An Cistus Austriacus myrtifolius Auricula ursi● Sedum serra tum alterum foliis longis angustis Sedum Alpinum minimum foliis cinereis flore candido J. B. Siler montanum and many others Helleborus niger verus plentifully all over the highest mountains Scabiosa argentea angustifolia in the chanels of the torrents in Friuli and Galega by the rivers and ditches every where in Italy In Marea Trevisana some part of Friuli and the greatest part of Lombardy we observed the Corn-fields to be so thick set with rows of trees that if a man from an hill or high tower should look down upon the Countrey at a distance he would take it to be a Wood. Against every Tree is planted a Vine which runs up the tree and the branches of the neighbour-vines they draw from tree to tree and tie together So that their Corn-fields are also Woods and Vine-yards the same land sufficing for all these productions and not being exhausted with so much spending as one would be apt to imagine by reason of the depth and richness of its soil Neither in this hot Countrey doth the Corn receive any prejudice from the shade or dropping of the Trees which in our colder Climate would quite marr it but rather advantage there falling little rain in Summer-time and the Trees keeping off the scorching Sun-beams which else might dry up and wither it the heat notwithstanding sufficing to bring the Grain to perfect maturity Whereas with us all the Sun we can give it is little enough and the very grass which grows under the trees is sowr and crude for that usually we have too little heat for our moisture and they too much This part of Italy hath been deservedly celebrated for fertility and may justly in my opinion be stiled the Garden of Europe OF VENICE VEnice is built upon certain little Islands in the middle of the Sea or rather in the middle of certain Flats or Shallows covered all over with water at full Sea but about the City when the Tide is out in many places bare called by the Italians Lagune These Lagune are enclosed and separated from the main Gulf or Adriatic Sea by a bank of earth il Lito or Lido they call it extending according to Contarini about 60 miles according to Leander Albertus and others who come nearer the truth but 35 and resemble the space conteined in a bent Bow the bow being the shore of the firm land and the Lido the string The City stands at an equal distance from the firm land of Italy and from the Lito viz. five miles from each This Lido serves as
Foscaro was made Duke there were three more created anew so that then the whole number was nine three of whom took care of the Church and its Treasures three of the Legacies of the three Sestieri on one side the great Chanel and three of the Legacies of the three Sestieri on the other side In the year 1509. when the Republics Armies were broken and routed at Addua by Lewis XII King of France they were constrained to create six for mony conferring that honour upon such as would lend the Commonwealth such a certain sum These Procurators have power to compel Heirs to perform the Wills of the Testators They wear Ducal habits and carry servants about with them and have the precedence of all other Magistrates In processons the Counsellors and three Capi de Quaranta take place of them They have either an habitation assigned them or 60 Ducats per annum allowed They all enter into the Council of Pregadi but not all into the Council of Ten but only nine chosen by the said Council three for a Procuracy They are not capable of any other Magistracy except that of Savio grande and the Giunta of the Council of X. When there is a Captain of the Armata or a Proveditor of the Camp to be chosen there is a Law made in the Pregadi that any one that is Procurator may obtain that Dignity They cannot go to the Great Council but only in the Election of the Duke which license is then granted them by an especial Law They were wont anciently upon all those days the Great Council met during all the time the Council sate to continue in the Court of the Palace and never to depart thence till the Great Council was risen that if any unexpected or suddain accident should happen they might be ready to remedy or assist And this perchance was the reason that it was forbidden them to go to the Great Council But in our time this usance is not observed because of that quiet and tranquility the Commonwealth enjoys Which is such that no man thinks there can any accident happen in the City which shall require the presence of the Procurators more is one place than in another There is no Magistracy or Dignity in the City of much desired by the Gentlemen as this of Procurator Yet I think that it hath lost much of its ancient reputation For whereas formerly it was not wont to be granted to any but ancient men and great repute in our times we have seen many adorned therewith who were neither of mature age nor great esteem and credit Of the other Officers and Magistrates whereof this Republic hath good store I shall say nothing they belonging rather to the administration of Justice and particular civil affairs then the Government of the Commonwealth Only it is worth the notice taking that they have so many Offices divided among the Gentlemen to busie and employ the greater number of them that so having something to entertain their time with they may not be at leisure to think upon innovating in the Government or any way design and practice against the constitution of the Commonwealth to the disturbance of the peace The Gentlemen while they are in the City wear black Gowns with narrow sleeves and caps without which habit they never appear in the streets or any public place In the Piazza of S. Mark that side next the Great Council-chamber is appropriated to them to walk in where no others mingle with them This walk or rather the company of Gentlemen walking together there they call the Broil Broglio The principal diversion of the Gentlemen Citizens and Strangers is to walk in this Piazza The present Citizens of what quality or estate soever have no share or interest at all in the Govrernment of the Commonwealth Probable it is that when the Creat Council was shut up as they phrase it that is determined to such a number of Families excluding all the rest that all the Citizens of any quality were therein comprehended because before that time the Government having been common to all it is not likely the present establishment would have taken place without commotion and disturbance if there had been a considerable number of Citizens of fashion and interest left out Formerly this honour hath been given to many Citizens of eminent merit Lately since the Wars with the Turks in Candy for 100000 Ducats any Citizen might be created Nobleman By which means the State raised millions of Ducats there having been more then fourscore Families advanced to that Dignity They put not weapons into the Citizens hands but chuse rather to make use of mercenary Souldiers in their Wars There is no Law that prohibits any Citizen to be chosen to any place or Office by the Great Council nor doth there need it For that they are as sure not to be cosen as though there were such a Law the interest of the Nobility being as strong a bar to such a choice as Law would be And yet Gianotti saith that some have attained to be nominated and balloted in the Great Council The air notwithstanding the situation of the City is held to be very good and healthful and which is more agreeable to people of all countreys and tempers We never enjoyed our health better nor had better stomachs to our meat in any place beyond the Seas then we had heer Heer we first saw the Ludicrum called by some Diabolus in carc●re from a little hollow glass-image made like the Picture of the Devil though a glass-bubble would serve the purpose as well or better which being put into a cylindrical glass-tube full of water they could make ascend descend or rest in any part of the tube at pleasure The manner thus They prepare an icuncula or glass-bubble hollow and having in the heavier end of it a little hole of such a poise as just to ascend and swim in water and having put it into a glass-tube stopt close or sealed at one end and almost full of water they clap their hand on the mouth of the tube and press down the air upon the superficies of the water The water being thus prest presses upon the air in the icuncula or bubble which giving place part of the water thrusts into it by the little hole The bubble thereupon becoming heavier sinks in the water Then taking up the hand and removing the force the air in the icuncula or bubble by its elastic power expands it self and expelling the water again the icuncula or bubble ascends and so by proportioning the force they can make it not only ascend and descend from top to bottom but rest at what point of height or depth they please Of this and other ludicrous experiments concerning the motion of these bubbles I shall not think much heer to set down what Doctor Cornelius of Naples hath delivered in his Progymnasmata Physica Epist de Circumpulsione Platonica I was saith he informed by Lud. Casalius of
between every two Bastions an half Moon It is well furnished round about with great Guns ready mounted Within the Castle is a water-mill which they told us was driven by water which springs up within the Castle-walls Schottus saith that the circuit of the whole Fortress besides the trenches is 1600 paces The Garrison at our being there consisted of about 600 Souldiers and the Castellana or Governours name was Don Balthasar Markadel We saw the Museum or Gallery of Seignior Manfredus Septalius son to Ludovicus Septalius the famous Physician wherein we took notice of a box with a multitude of Looking-glasses so disposed as by mutual reflexion to multiply the object many times so that one could see no end of them the best in this king that I have any where seen A plain plate of glass with so many spherical protuberances wrought upon it that if you lookt through it upon any object you saw it so many times multiplied as there were protuberancies or segments of spheres upon the plain of the glass Likewise a Speculum of the same fashion by looking upon which through the former you see your face so many times multiplied as to be equal to the product of the sum of the protuberancies of the one glass multiplied into the sum of the protuberancies of the other Several concave burning Specula of metal and we saw the experiment of burning by reflexion Several Engines counterfeiting a perpetual motion of which afterward we understood the intrigue Several automata and clocks of divers fashions among the rest two of a cylindrical figure which moved without weight or spring only by being placed upon an enclining plain their own weight was the spring of their motion Pieces of Amber with Flies Grashoppers Bees enclosed in them Pieces of Crystal with Grass Moss Leaves Insects c. enclosed in them A large piece of Crystal with a drop of water in it and in that water a bubble of air which as you turned the stone moved upwards A little Cornelian with a great quantity of water enclosed in it Pictures made of feathers by the Indians A great collection as well of ancient as modern coins and medals Several Entaglie Camei Nicoli The Pietra imboscata of Imperatus having the lively signatures of herbs and trees upon it Of this sort is found plenty about Florence where they polish them and make Cabinets of them Perfumed knives Persian Arabic Chinese and Japonic manuscripts and a China Calendar in wood Great variety of shells Telescopes and Microscopes of his own making A large piece of the minera or matrix of Emeralds with the stones growing in it Many musical instruments and divers sorts of pipes of his own invention Ancient Rings Indian Scepters and Bills made of stone Several things petrified Chymical Oils extracted by himself without fire The Skeleton of a Morsses head Divers and very large Rhinocerots horns Gazells horns and an Unicorns horn Curious pieces of turned work of Ivory very fine and subtil Several pieces of past and coloured glass Several pieces of most transparent Crystal-glass excelling that of Venice made and invented by himself Factitious China or Porcellane of his own invention and making hardly to be distinguished from the true But there being a printed Catalogue of this Cabinet set out by the owner himself I refer the Reader thither for further satisfaction In this City they work much in Crystal making drinking-glasses and other vessels cases for tweezers seals and an hundred pretty knacks of it they also engrave figures upon it They grind and polish it with a brass wheel upon which they put the powder of Smiris mingled with water and after to smooth it they use the power of Sasse-mort which is a stone they find in the River fast by This stone by lying in the water by degrees dies from a heavy pebble first becoming light like a pumice and afterward if it lie longer in the water crumbling to dust Most ordinary stones by lying in this water or where the water sometimes comes will as they told us die in this manner excepting the clear pellucid pebbles which are immortal We left Milan and began our journey to Turin We rode all along upon the bank of the River Navilio passing several small Villages leaving Biagrassa a Town of some note a little on our left hand and lodged at Bufalora 22 miles distant from Milan Heer in the hedges we found Fumaria bulbosa flore purpureo albo now in flower as also Aristolochia rotunda in flower We passed through Novara a strong Town belonging to the Spaniard 10 miles distant from Bufalora and rode on 10 miles further to Vercelli belonging to the Duke of Savoy a large Town but neither strong nor well peopled This Town was delivered up by the Spaniard to the Duke when Trin was restored to the Spaniard by the French We were told that the Citizens pay ten times more to the Duke then they did to the Spaniard and for that cause such as are able leave the City and remove to other places We travelled as far as a Village called Sian 18 miles passing by a large borgo called S. German Being stopt by the waters we were constrained to stay all night at Chivas no more then 8 miles forward We got safe to Turino passing by the way many waters two we ferried over viz Orco and Stura Turin anciently Augusta Taurinorum seated upon the River Padus or Po is no large City but by reason the Duke of Savoy usually keeps his Court there frequent and populous The ancient buildings are not better than those of our English Towns but there is one long street of new buildings tall and uniform and about the midst of it a large square Piazza having on each side a fair Cloyster very handsome and sightly At one end of this street is another Piazza before the Dukes Palace a fair building but not yet finished Heer is a Citadel with 5 bastions serving as well to bridle as defend the Town Heer we met with some of the Protestants of the Valleys of Lucern and Angrona who told us that by the intercession of the Cantons of Zurich and Bern the Duke hath at present made an accord with them permitting them still to enjoy the liberty of their Religion They dwel in 14 pagi or Villages have no Town are in number about 15000 souls and of them about 2000 fighting men These are divided into 14 Companies under so many Captains among whom Jean Janneville is noted for a valiant man and a good Souldier The Papists call these men Barbetti and Genevrini They are the only Protestants in Italy and have maintained the purity of their Religion all along these 1200 years They run over the mountains like chamois never shooting if themselves may be believed but they hit They boasted to us that in the late War they had not lost above 40 or 50 men and had killed 500
houses tall and massy for the most part flat rooft and covered with a kind of plaster which fences out the rain and endures the weather well Notwithstanding this City lies so far South and under hills yet is not the heat extreme but such as may well be endured even in the middle of Summer they having for the most part about noon-tide a brize of wind which cools and refreshes much Two or three hot days we had but the rest temperate enough They told us that there uses to be very little rain there in Summer time howbeit at our being there which was in the latter end of June and beginning of July it rained every other day and sometimes so plentifully that the water ran down like a river in the streets When they have no rain to cool the streets in the afternoon they draw about a tun filled with cold water and bored with several holes whence the water gushes out as it goes along The Dialect of the common people is much different from the Tuscane and not to be understood but by one who hath a long time conversed with them This City is well served with all provisions especially fruit which is very cheap heer In this place we took first notice of the Cucurbita anguina Cucumis anguinus Mala insana Limoncelle to be sold in market Macarones and Vermicelle which are nothing but a kind of paste cut into the figure of worms or thongs boil'd in broth or water are a great dish heer as well as at Messina and as much esteemed by the vulgar as Frumenty by the Countrey people in England All the Neopolitans and Sicilians and genenrally the Italians drink their Wine and water snowed and you shall see many stalls in the streets where there is snowed water to be sold many also you shall meet with a barrel at their backs and glasses in their hands crying Acqua ghiacciata or Acqua nevata We were credibly informed that before the last great Plague the very gabel upon snow was farmed at 25000 crowns per annum NB. To cool the water or wine they do not put the snow into it but round about the vessel wherein it is contained so they have a vessel conteining the snow or ice and into that they set the vessel conteining the wine or water There are in this City an incredible number of Monasteries or Religious houses as they call them Beltrano Descript Neap. gives us a Catalogue of 160 of all sorts whereof 121 of men and 39 of women the number of the persons contained in them being 1242. Four Castles there are to secure and bridle the City withal 1. Castel d'Ovo built on a rock in the Sea having an artificial Caussey or mole leading to it from the shore 2. Castel S. Elmo or S. Hermo standing on a hill above the City 3. Castel Novo by the water side near the Haven where the Gallies lie 4. Torrione di Carmine made use of by Massaniello and Anese in the time of the Rebellion This is only a tower belonging to the Carmelites Cloyster The Churches in this Town are generally very handsome within side many of them richly gilt and sumptuously adorned some of them not only paved with marble of divers colours but their walls encrusted all over with marble inlaid Of all the Cloysters I have any where seen that of the Carthusians close adjoyning to the Castle S. Elmo is the most splendid and magnific where there is a large square Court compassed about with the fairest peristylium or Cloyster that I ever saw All the pillars and all the pavement of the Portico I mean being of marble of several colours well wrought polish'd and laid and so cleanly and elegantly kept that one cannot see a more pleasant spectacle of this nature For my own part I was much taken with the sight of it Heer is a fair Arsenal to build Gallies in now made but little use of The public Granary deserves notice taking it being the greatest and best furnished of any we have seen They told us there was Corn enough always in store to serve the whole City some years upon any exigency There are great Vaults made under-ground to keep it in in Winter time and large rooms above to keep it in Summer A great number of men they hire to turn all the beds of Corn every day The Bakers of the Town are obliged to take every month 25000 tomoli out of this Granary that so there may be a succession of new Corn yearly This they paying a good rate for is the reason why bread is dearer in Naples than otherwise it would be In the City of Naples are 5 Seggi that is Benches or Companies of Noblemen viz. that of 1. Capua 2. Nido 3. Montagna 4. Porta 5. Porta nova In the whole Kingdom of Naples there are 148 Cities of which 21 20 are Archbishopricks and 127 128 Bishopricks to about 30 of which the King of Spain nominates 87 Princes 122 Dukes 159 Marquesses and 7 Earls The Kingdom is divided into 12 Provinces viz. 1. TERRA DILAVORO anciently called Campania felix in which are 14 Cities viz. 1. Aversa 2. Capua 3. Caserta 4. Gaeta 5. Ischia 6. Massa-Lubrense 7. Nola. 8. Pozzuoli 9. Sessa 10. Sorrento 11. Teano 12. Traetto 13. Venafro 14. Vico Equense 2. PRINCIPATO CITRA in which are 18 Cities 1. Amalfi 2. Campagna 3. Capri in the Island Capreae near Naples famous for the retirement of Tiberius Caesar The greatest part of the Revenue of the Bishop of this Island they told us arises from the Quails taken therein 4. Casella 5. Contursi 6. Eboli 7. Cappaccia 8. Gragnano 9. Lettere 10. Laurino 11. Nocera 12. Salerno 13. San-severino 14. Saponara 15. Sarno 16. Scala 17. Tramonti 18. Ravello 3. PRINCIPATO ULTRA in which are 14 viz. 1. Beneveno 2. Solofra 3. Consa 4. Ariano 5. Avellino 6. Bisaccio 7. S. Angclo de Lombardi 8. Cedogna 9. Monte marano 10. Nusco 11. Voltorara 12. Vico. 13. Vico della Baronia 14. S. Agatha delli grotti 4. BASILICATA which hath 11 Cities viz. 1. Lavello 2. Amalfi 3. Policastro 4. Venosa 5. Acirenea 6. Muro 7. Monte peloso 8. Potenza 9. Rapolla 10. Tricarico 11. Tursi 5. CALABRIA CITRA in which are 12 viz. 1. Mantea 2. Cosenza 3. Paola 4. Montalto 5. Rossano 6. Bisignano 7. Cariari 8. Cassano 9. Martirano 10. Strongoli 11. S. Marco 12. Ubriatico 6. CALABRIA ULTRA 16 viz. 1. Catanzara 2. Crotone 3. Squillaci 4. Taverna 5. Tropia 6. Rhezo or Reggio anciently Rhegium 7. Belicastro 8. Bova 9. S. Severina 10. Gieraci 11. L'isola 12. Montilene 13. Melito 14. Nicastro 15. Nicoterra 16. Oppido 7. TERRA D'OTRANTO 14 viz. 1. Gallipoli 2. Lecce 3. Brindisi 4. Matera 5. Ostuni 6. Tarento 7. Otranto Hydruntum 8. Alessano 9. Castellaneta 10. Castro 11. Motola 12. Nardo 13. Oria. 14. Ugento 8. TERRA DI BARI 16. 1. Andria 2. Bari 3. Barletta a
minor folio oblongo Ger. Ammi vulgare foliis mag incisis Meda orbiculata major J. B. Tordylium majus Scorpioides Bupleuri folio Crithmum spinosum sive Pastinaca marina Passerina Lob. Aparine semine Coriandri Saccharato Trifolium stellatum C. B. Cerinthe flore luteo Melissa peregrina flore albo Cortex ramulorum antiquiorum caules enim perennant cinereus juniorum ruber Caules quadrati Folia bina ex adverso quàm Melissae minora pediculis satis longis subnixa Flores cucullati albi cum aliqua tamen ruboris mixtura Vascula seminalia qualia Moluccae laevis ferè excepto quòd in 5 lacinias dividantur duabus inferiùs tribus superiùs sitis Semina itidem qualia Moluccae Odor plantae gravis Nigella arvensis Sysirynchinum majus Limonium parvum Narbonense oleaefolium Cichorea spinosa Cretica Ponae Daucus lucidus Asparagus petraeus sive Corruda Tragos sive Vva marina major herbariorum Lob. Beta Cretica spinosa Park Trifolium capitulis glomeratis glomerulis spinosis Linum sylvestre caeruleum Caltha arvensis Atractylis Cruciata minima muralis Col. Coronopus folils acutis in margine dentatis i. e. Plantagini affinis Bibinella Siciliae herbula J. B. Malva flo carneo minore Ex radice alba simplici plures emittit caules humi procumbentes hirsutos superna parte rubentes Folia ima subrotunda longis pediculis annexa quae in caulibus sunt in tres aut quinque lacinias dissecta hirsuta circa margines crenata Flores parvi quinquefolii carnei Semina qualia malvae vulgaris Alaternus Phillyrea latifolia seu serrata secunda Clus Glaux peregrina annua Iva moschata Monspeliensium Asparagus sylvest spinosus Clus Sedum minus luteum ramulis reflexis Geranium procumbens Althaeoe folio We put to Sea again but the wind still continuing contrary and the Sea very rough when we were gotten about half over the channel we were forced to return back again to the primo terreno of Sicily viz. the Castle of Puzallu The greatness of the waves not permitting us to come ashore there we rowed 6 miles further South and put in at a little Cove called the Harbour of Punto Cerciolo The weather continuing foul we were deteined heer 3 days having no other shelter then a pitiful small hut o● two which the two Sentinels who stand constantly at this point to watch and give notice to the Countrey of the coming of Corsairs had set up for themselves to creep into in stormy weather We should have been glad of fresh straw to lie in having nothing in our kennel but old short straw so full of fleas that we were not able to sleep in it Our diet was the blood and flesh of Sea-tortoises that our Sea-men took by the way and bread we brought along with us Wine we got at house about half a mile off our lodging but when our bread failed we were fain to send 8 miles for more Fish or flesh we could get none This stop gave us leisure enough to search the shores and neighbouring Countrey for plants of which we found Panax Herculeum majus Ger. Cinara sylvestris Ger. Ruta sylvestris Limonium elegans Raumolfii Beta Cretica spinosa Park Medica orbiculata fructu minore Med. orbiculata elegans fructu circum oras rugoso Hypericum foliis parvis crispis seu sinuatis Perfoliata angustifolia montana Col. Siliqua arbor seu Panis S. Joannis Medica marina Anonis lutea parva procumbens In arenosis nascitur radice albâ longâ simplici fibris nunc paucioribus nunc pluribus majoribus donatâ Folia ei parva tripartitò divisa pediculis nullis verùm duae inferiores partes cauli adjacent ut in Lotis fit ac proinde haec planta eodem modo trifolia est quo Loti quinquefoliae Quinetiam folia saturè viridia sunt in margine eleganter dentata alternatim posita Flores lutei Anonidis vulgaris Siliquae breves tumidae subrotundae duobus intus ordinibus seminum figurâ lienis praeditorum In arenosis maris litoribus circa Siciliam frequens v. g. propè Cataniam circa Promontorium Pachynum hoc in loco Cistus mas 4 folio oblongo albido J. B. Lotus flore luteo corniculis articulatis Radix ei simplex alba in nonnullis tamen plantis ima parte in fibras spargitur Cauliculi plures in terram procumbentes Folia glauca pentaphylla si auriculas ad caulem hinc indè appositas adnumeres Flores parvi lutei Trifolii corniculati sed minores ad nodos nunc singuli nunc bini interdum etiam terni Siliquae graciles longae contortae in spiram seu corniculatae articulatae semina oblonga in singulis internodiis continentes Caucalis maritima J. B. Smyrnium Creticum Gladiolus Narbonensis Polium montanum album Saxifragia Venetorum Ad. Psyllium vulgare Acanthium Illyricum Telephium scorpioides Anguillarae Tragos sive uva marina major J. B. Opuntia marina in litus rejecta and many others before observed in other places The wind ceasing we put to Sea again and had a very good passage over to Malta By the way we saw our Seamen take several Tortoises on this manner When they espy a Tortoise floting on the top of the water as they can easily do at a good distance with as little noise as they can possibly they bring their boat up close to him then they either catch him with their hands and draw him up into the boat or if they cannot get near enough to do so one leaps out of the boat into the Sea and turns the Tortoise on his back and then with ease drives him before him up to the boat the Tortoise being not able to turn himself or swim away on his back They say and it is not unlikely that the Tortoise while he flotes thus upon the water sleeps which is the reason why they are so still and make so little noise in bringing their boat up to him One of these Tortoises which they caught had two great bunches of those they call Bernacle-shells sticking or growing to his back and some of them the largest and fairest of that kind which we have seen As for that opinion of a bird breeding in them which some have affirmed with much confidence and of which Michael Meyerus hath written a whole Book it is without all doubt false and frivolous The Bernacles which are said to be bred in them being hatcht of eggs of their own laying like other birds the Hollanders in their third Voyage to discover the Northeast passage to Cathaia and China in 80 degrees 11 minutes of Northern latitude having found two Islands in one of which they observed a great number of these Geese sitting on their eggs c. as Dr. Johnson relates out of Pontanus As for these shells they are a kind of Balanus marinus as Fabius Columna proves never coming to be other then what they are but only growing in bigness as other shells do
well He also mentions a sort of excrescence or moss or scurf which the Rocks about S. Maria el Aalia and other places on the North side of the Island naturally put forth called by the Countrey people Vercella which they scrape off with an iron instrument and having washed it with a certain liquor and mingled it with other Ingredients He tells us not what that liquor or those ingredients are they expose it to the Sun and use it to dye wool of a carnation colour This kind of moss called in Wales Kenkerig and in England Cork or Arcel is gathered and used for the same purpose in Wales and the North of England Malta hath been famous of old for a breed of little Dogs called Catuli Melitaei the race whereof is quite extinct and now their Cats are as much esteemed The Roses of Malta contend for sweetness with those of Paestum and the Honey with that of Hybla or Hymettus So that some suppose this Island had its name Melita from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifying honey The air is clear and healthful and the people long lived Not much rain falls heer yet sufficient to supply water to feed their springs of which there are several in the high grounds or small hills about the middle of the Island That these Springs proceed from rain-rain-water only my Author doth very well prove because they are found only at the foot of little hills consisting of a certain porous stone which the Maltese call Giorgiolena or a chalky earth which easily imbibes the rain And to speak in general that all springs and running waters owe their rise and continuance to rain seems to me more than probable 1. Because I never yet saw any springing or running waters breaking out either on the top of a hill or so near the top but that there was earth enough above them to feed such Springs considering the condition of high mountains which are almost constantly moistned with clouds and on which the Sun-beams have but little force and yet I have made it part of my business in viewing the highest hills in England and Wales to examine this particular Nor have I yet ever observed such springing and running waters in any plain unless there were hills so near that one might reasonably conclude they were fed by them 2. Many springs quite fail in dry Summers and generally all abate considerably of their waters I am not ignorant that some make a distinction between failing springs and enduring springs and would have the former to proceed from rain and the latter from the Sea but I see no sufficient foundation for such a distinction and do think that both the one and the other are to be attributed to rain the failing and enduring being to be referred either to the different quantity and thickness of earth that feeds them or to the different quality the one more quickly the other more slowly transmitting the water or some such like accident 3. In clay grounds into which the water sinks with difficulty one shall seldom find any springs but in sandy gravelly rocky stony or other grounds into which the rain can easily make its way one seldom fails of them 4. They who would have fountains to arise from and to be fed by the Sea have not as yet given a satisfactory account of the ascent of water to the tops of mountains and its efflux there For though water will creep up a filtre above its level yet I question whether to so great an excess above its aequilibrium with the air whereas in pumps we see it will not rise above two or three and thirty foot or if it should whether it would there run out at the top of the filtre we not having as yet heard of any experiment that will countenance such a thing For the ascent and efflux of sap in trees I suspect may be owing to a higher principle then purely mechanical As for the Sabulum Quellem or Arena bulliens of Helmont I look upon it as an extravagant conceit of his and yet some ground there is to believe that there is a kind of earth lying up and down in veins which doth like a filtre retain the water and carry or derive it along as it lies from place to place till it brings it to the supersicies of the earth where it runs out In other places there are subterraneous channels like the veins in animals whereinto the water soaking into the earth is gathered and wherein it runs as above ground out of smaller rivulets into greater streams and where one of these veins opens in the superficies of the earth there is a spring greater or lesser according to the magnitude of the vein Nor need we wonder that springs should endure the length of a dry Summer for in many sorts of earth the water makes its way but slowly since we see that in those troughs or leches wherein Landresses put ashes and thereupon water to make a lixivium the water will be often many hours before it gets all through the ash and the Lech ceases to drop and in many Chymical preparations which are filtred its long before the liquor can free it self and wholly drain away from the earthy and feculent part Some attribute the original of fountains to watery vapours elevated by subterraneous fires or at least by that generally diffused heat which Miners find in the earth when they come to 50 or 60 fathoms under ground and condensed by the tops and sides of the mountains as by an Alembick head and so distilling down and breaking out where they find issue And in reason one would think that generally the deeper one digs in the earth the colder one should find it sith the Urinators affirm that the deeper they dive in the Sea the colder still they find the water And yet were there such subterraneous heats they are not so great as that it is likely they should elevate vapours so high through so thick a coat of earth which it must be an intense heat indeed will carry them through which heat none say is found near the superficies of the earth Mr. Hook's account viz. that salt water being heavier than fresh by reason of its preponderancy it may drive up the fresh as high above the surface of the Sea as are the tops of mountains before it comes to an aequilibrium with it is very ingenious and would be most likely were there continued close channels from the bottom of the Sea to the tops of mountains not admitting the air which I believe will not be found in many places What is said about ebbing and flowing wells in confirmation of it adds no strength for none of those ebbing and flowing wells that I have yet seen do at all observe the motion of the Sea but reciprocate two or three times or oftner every hour excepting one on the Coast of South-Wales in a sandy ground by the Sea-side not ¼ of a mile from the water which
observes the Tides but it is no running water nor doth it I believe arise above the level of the Sea I do therefore shrewdly suspect for fabulous whatever hath been written of Wells remote from the Sea which in their ebbing and flowing observe its motions But for a reason of the ebbing and flowing of these Wells I must confess I am hitherto at a great loss Whereas some say that rain sinks not above a foot or two deep into the earth if they understand it of all earths it is manifestly false for that we see in Coal delfs and other mines in wet weather the Miners are many times drown'd out as they phrase it though no water run down into the mouths of their pits and shafts and in sandy and heathy grounds in the greatest rains little water runs off the land as on Newmarket-heath Gogmagog●hills Salisbury-plain c. and therefore it must needs sink in and out of the mouth of Pool-hole near Buxton in the Peak of Derby and other Caves in the sides of mountains in rainy seasons streams of water many times run out where in dry weather and Summer time there are none Neither is this opinion we defend any more repugnant to the Scripture then the other For whereas it is said Eccles 1. 7. All the rivers run into the sea yet the sea is not full unto the place from whence the rivers come thither they return again we grant it to be most true nay we think such a circulation absolutely necessary to the being of springs only we assert it to be performed not under ground but above that is the clouds take up water out of the Sea and pour it down again upon the earth and from part thereof falling upon and soaking into the higher grounds arise the springs But to return to Malta the Haven is very commodious and secure divided into two by a little promontory or neck of land some 1500 canes long and 380 broad upon which the new City is built Of these two that on the West side the City is called simply and per Antonomasian Marsa that is the Haven and is in length 1800 canes or poles of ten palms the cane Roman measure and is sub-divided into other crecks or sinus's That on the East-side called Marsa moscetto is as large as the other in a little Island within which is the Lazaretto near it Ships that come from infected places keep their Quarentain The new City called Valetta is divided into 20 streets 8 in length and 12 in breadth all streight Though they be not paved yet they need it not the Town being built upon a solid rock They want no uniformity but being level which the place being uneven uphill and down-hill will not admit The houses are all of stone flat-rooft and covered with plaister which is sufficient heer there falling but little rain though they be not tall yet are they neat and pleasant Upon the roofs of their houses in Summer time the people set their beds as at Aleppo and sleep in the open air The number of the Inhabitants of all ages according to a survey taken in the year 1632 was 10744 the number of houses 1891 which sum is I believe since that time much encreased Over the gate of this City leading to the land called Porta reale you have this Inscription giving an account of the first founding and building of it Fr. Jo. de Valetta sacrae Domûs Hospitalis Hierosol M. Magister periculorum annosuperiore à suis militibus populóque Melitoeo in obsidione Turcica perpessorum memor de condenda nova urbe eâque moeniis arcibus propugnaculis ad sustinendam vim omnem propulsandósque inimici Turcae impetus aut saltem reprimendos munienda inito cum Proceribus consilio Die Jovis 28 Martii 1566 Deum omnipotentem Deipar●mque virginem numen tutelare D. Joannem Baptistam Divósque caeteros multa precatus ut faustum felixque Religioni Christianae fieret ac Ordini suo quod inceptabat bene cederet prima urbis fundamenta in monte ab incolis Sceberras vocato jecit eámque de suo nomine Valettam dato pro insignibus in Parma miniata aureo leone appellari voluit Fr. Antonius de Paula M. Mag. invictiss Conditoris tantaeque rei monimentum P. C. Anno ab Vrbe Fundata 68. It is fortified with impregnable Walls and Bulwarks especially toward the land where one would think there are too many and yet they are still adding more Within the outmost wall or between the two walls and outworks they have enclosed a great space of void ground whether with design to enlarge the City filling that space with houses or to receive the Country-people in case the enemy should land upon the Island I know not All the walls and bulwarks are mined or vaulted underneath that so in case the besiegers should get upon them they might be blown up and rendred useless The charge of all these Walls Castles and Fortifications would be intolerable had they not stone at hand and slaves to work This City is well served with all provisions there being every morning a Market plentifully furnished with bread flesh fish poultry fruits herbs c. of the best in their several kinds and to be bought at easie rates The most considerable buildings in this City are 1. The Church of St. John Baptist patron of the Order wherein are many Chappels and Altar-pieces richly gilded and adorned Heer lie buried the Grand Masters that have been since the Order was translated hither in a vault under ground several of them having in the Church Monuments with inscriptions This Church is not yet quite finished The Castle of S. Elmo which stood heer before this City was built on the utmost point of the Promontory A strong place but of no great capacity Heer we observed the like winding ascent to the top without any steps or stairs as in the tower of S. Mark at Venice Upon the top of this Castle is constant watch and ward kept When they descry any Vessel coming toward the Island be it great or small they set up a Flag suitable to the bigness of the Vessel if two Vessels two if three three and so on according to their number signifying also by the place where they set these Flags from what quarter East West North or South such Vessel or Vessels come So that the City is presently advised what Vessels and how many are near the Port. In this Castle are imprisoned such Knights as have committed any misdemeanour and held in restraint longer or less time or further proceeded against according to the merit of their fault Before this Castle are the Granaries where the provisions of Corn for the City are kept These are nothing but Caves hewn out of the rock in the form of a Cupola or ordinary Bee-hive having each a narrow mouth above They are constantly stored with Corn enough beforehand to serve the whole City for
fly out a great way further to Sea for what reason we cannot easily imagine perhaps only to sport themselves in the Sun Howbeit we do not remember to have seen any other land-insect fallying out so far from land And now that we have made mention of the Cicada it may not be amiss by the way to take notice of a common error committed in our English Schools in translating or rendring this word Cicada in English by Grashopper whereas a Cicada is a much different insect of a rounder and shorter body that sits commonly upon trees and makes a noise five times louder then a Grashopper whose true name in Latine is Locusta and not Cicada Of these Cicadae there are great numbers in the hot Countreys but none on this side then Alps and Sevenes This night we lodged at Astura where yet remain some ruines of an ancient Town and the foundations of some buildings in the water Not far hence the fourth day we passed the new Town of Antio and about a mile distant great ruines of the old Town and of a great mole for the Haven and this night lodged at a little tower called S. Michael near the mouth of the River Tiber not far from Ostia The 5th day we hed a favourable gale of wind which brought us to a little place called S. Stefano not far from Orbetello This day we passed in sight of Civita Vecehia and Porto Hercole compassing Monte Argentaro The 6th day there happened a great Borasco as they term it that is a storm of thunder lightning and rain accompanied with a violent wind which continued all the sorenoon in the afternoon we rowed about 18 or 20 miles and put in to a little Cove or harbour under a tower called Calo di Furno On the Sea-shore heerabout we found those opercula concharum which some naturalists make to be stones and call Vmbilici marini The Italians call them S. Lucies eyes The 7th day we proceeded as far as the Island Troia when the wind being contrary we were forced to take up at a little harbour under the shelter of a small tower called Lo Molino The 8th day we passed Piombino a walled Town which hath a Prince of its own Populonia P. Barreto S. Vincentio Castagneto and Vada and lodged at a tower called Castiglione The 9th day it having blown hard all night notwithstanding there was no wind stirring in the morning we found the Sea very rough yet through the good providence of God we got safe into Ligorn about noon The Plants we took more especial notice of in this voyage were Rosmarinum vulgare cedrus Lycia folio retuso Bellonii Barba Jovis frutex on the rocks and cliffs by the Sea side in many places Cruciata marina on the sands at Astura plentifully Thlaspi capsulis sublougis incanum J. B. ibid. Cichorium verrucarium sive Zacyntha at the mouth of Tiber and about S. Stefano plentifully Lotus siliquosa lutea Monspeliensis J. B. besides another sort of Lotus with a longer and flenderer cod Aristolochia clematitis A semper-virent shrub with a leaf like Oleander Terebinthus Paliurus Thlaspi biscutatum Ambrosia vulgaris which it was not our hap to meet with elsewhere in all our travels Cirsii quoedam species quae jam defloruerat at S. Stefano Chamaerrhiphes sive Palma humilis about Orbetello and elsewhere on the cliffs of Hetruria Draba quaedam filiquosa foliis longis angustis incanis Euphrasia pratensis lutea Phillyrea angustifolia in montosis propè maris litus in toto hoc tractu frequentissima Phillyrea serrata 2 Clus Colutea minima sive Coronilla Ger. In rupibus maritimis propè turrim Castiglione OF FLORENCE FRom Ligorn we travelled through Pisa to Florence a City which answers its name and epithete Fiorenza la bella Florence the fair Yet for beauty in my opinion it must give place to Antwerp and some other Cities in the Low Countreys only it excells them in multitude of large stone-palaces scattered up and down the streets sch as are those of the Grand Duke both the old and the new called the Palazzo de Pitti because purchased of them of the Strozzi the Salviati c. Many of the streets are streight which adds no little to the beauty of them They are all paved with great broad stones like Luca or Collen in Germany yet but narrow as in many other Towns of Italy and Gallia Narbonensis to keep off the scorching beams of the Sun in summer time which reflected from these broad stones would else make them more than sufficiently hot The Paper-windows and they too for the most part broken and tattered do very much disgrace the fair stone-houses The River Arno divides this City into two parts which are joyned together by 4 fair stone-bridges one of which called Ponte vecchio or the old bridge hath on each side it a row of Goldsmiths-shops All of them but especially the two middlemost are remarkable for the breadth and flatness of their arches The circuit of the walls is said to be 6 Italian miles but therein is comprehended a great deal of wast ground I mean not filled up with buildings the gardens and walks of the Great Dukes Palace being at least a mile in compass besides on the other side the River are some hundreds of acres of land taken up in vineyards and gardens belonging to private persons The number of Parishes taking in the 12 Priorates is 44 the number of Inhabitants according to Schottus 85000 souls and I believe he exceeds in his account though some make them 90000 and other 100000. There are an incredible number of Nunneries Schottus saith 54 we were told 56 whereas there are but 24 Monasteries of Freres But that which is most strange is the multitude of Hospitals and Alms houses of which there are said to be 37 one of which viz. the Orphanotrophium maintains 900 persos and hath 70000 crowns yearly revenue This City is of no great strength being encompassed only with an old-fashioned wall but the Great Duke hath 3 Castles or Cittadels in it I think rather to bridle then defend it one on the South-side held by a good Garrison neatly kept and diligently watcht wherein are laid up Arms for 30000 men Another is a small Fortress in lthe Gr. Dukes garden to which he may retire in case of any suddain danger or exigent heer they say his treasure or a good part of it is kept The third we viewed not The Churches in Florence though they be not so richly gilded as some we have seen yet for their Architecture they excel most especially the Domo or Church of S. Maria Florida which is some mens opinion is the compleatest structure that ever was set upon the earth The pilasters the support the nave or body of the Church stand at so great a distance and are withal so very slender that they do not obscure the Isles but at one view you enjoy the whole Church Besides the
thence have drawn rayes or ribs of stone answering to the ridges or striae of a cochle-shell to the edges round The Domo or Cathedral Chruch is a stately edifice of marble having a beautiful front adorned withinside with the heads of all the Popes placed in the wall round about the body of the Chruch Part of this Church is paved with Marble inlaid or a more elegant sort of M●saic work containing part of the History of the Bible done by Micherino Sanese This pavement is covered with a moveable floor of boards to preserve it Had it been finished as intended all Europe could not have shown the like but there is not a fourth part done The painting of the Library walls in this Chruch containing the History of Alneas Sylvius afterwards Pope Pius II half by the hand of Petrus Peruginus and half by Raphael Vrbin is in my judgment the most excellent painting that ever I beheld and so fresh and lively as if it had been done but yesterday Heer are also other good Churches and handsome Palaces We ascended the Tower called Torre di mangio from whence we had a fair prospect of the whole City which runs out into 3 angles The walls enclose much void ground which is made use of for Gardens and Vineyards All the streets and Piazza are paved with brick set edge-ways after the manner of Venice and the sides of the streets of the Holland Towns The whole Town is well built and situate upon a hill and by that means always clean They heer make no use of snow or ice to cool or refresh their Wines their cellars keeping it cool enough In the Palace of the Podestà we saw a room the walls and roof whereof were painted by Micherino Sanese valued at more then the whole Palace besides We took notice also of the Theater for Comedies a fair brick building and the Studium called the Sapienza where are the public Schools a mean building much like that of Pisa This City is counted a very good place to sojourn in for a Stranger that would learn Italian as well because the Citizens heer speak the purest language as for that they are very civil and courteous to Foreigners Besides by reason of its situation the air is temperate even in Summer time Provisions also are reasonable We travelled to Radicofani 34 miles passing through 1. Lucignano a post-village and in sight of Cuna a Village on a hill also a little walled Town called Fuon-convento then Tornieri a post-village and lastly S. Quiricho i. e. S. Cyriaci oppidum Which so soon as we had passed I found great plenty of Lavender-cotton which grew all along by the way-side There grew also all this days journey in great plenty Absinthium Romanum Caes Between S. Quiricho and Radicofani Cinara sylv and two other species of thistle one I guessed to be Carduus tomentosus Lob. the other I knew not Acarna flore purpuro-rubente Patulo Veronica spicata coerulea Winter Savory After luteus Linariae folio Colchicum covered all the pastures Between S. Quiricho and Radicofani we passed no considerable Town or Village All the Countrey we rode through this day is mountainous and barren very little wood growing on the ground Radicofani being a frontier is strongly fortified and held with a Garrison of 300 Souldiers by the Great Duke This Radicofani is situate upon a high hill so that one may see it going or coming 12 or 14 miles We travelled from Radicofani to Viterbo 38 miles About 10 miles from Radicofani we passed over a small River called at a place called Ponte Argentino which divides the State of the Gr. Duke and of the Pope It is to be noted that in all this Countrey the Towns and Villages are generally set upon the tops of hills for coolness I suppose We observed also that the Countrey subject to the Great Duke at least that part we travelled this Voyage was craggy and bare of trees and seem'd to us to be but dry parcht and barren land But so soon as we came into the Ecclesiastical State the world was well amended for the hills were for the most part covered with trees and the valleys very fruitful Fourteen miles from Radicofani we passed Aquapendente a large old Town ex re nomen habens for it stands upon the brow of a hill from which the water falls perpendicularly Then we passed S. Lorenzo a little Town on the edge of the lake of Volsinii now called Bolsena and rode along the brink of the lake 5 miles to Bolsena From Bolse we mounted up to Monte Fiascone where we tasted the so much celebrated wine and after 8 miles further riding over a spacious and fruitful plain arrived at Viterbo a large and well situate Town but not very fairly built All that we took notice of there was 2 or 3 handsome Fountains and the monument of Pope John XXI in the Domo There are Sulphure-wells and hot springs about the Town but we had not time to examine or so much as view them We rode to Baccano 22 miles from Viterbo passing through Ronciglione a pretty Town belonging to the State of Castro In the woods we travelled through this day upon the mountains near Viterbo we found many rare plants v. g. Carduus globosus Ger. Viola matronalis Casia poetica Lob. Cerrus minore glande Ger. Orobus sylvaticus viciae foliis C. B. Cyclaminus folio anguloso J. B. plentifully in all the Woods between Viterbo and Rome Mespilus vulgaris Hesperis sylvestris latifolia flore parvo albo Park Thlaspi Candiae Ger. Lamium scntellaria dictum Sorbus Linaria major purpurea Blattaria lutea Cytisus cortice cinereo aut albido siliquis hirsutis We cannot yet certainly determine what this plant is called by Botanic writers Plumbago Plinii at Bolsena and about Rome plentifully by the way sides Polygonum vel Linifolia per terram sparsa flore Scorpioidis J. B. Helleborus niger hortensis flore viridi J. B. in vepretis montosis passim We travelled from Baccano to Rome 16 miles From a mountain we passed over not far from Baccano we had a wide prospect of the Campania of Rome which being covered over with a thick mist appeared to us looking down upon it from the clear sky above like a huge lake of water nor could we have perswaded our selves otherwise had we not before observed the like Phaenomenon in some places of England About 3 miles short of Rome we passed by an ancient monument like to those we had observed at Modena which they call the Sepulchre of Nero and somewhat more than a mile before we entred the City we passed over the Tiber by the Ponte Molle anciently Pons Milvius and came upon the Via Flaminia a streight paved way having Ville and Gardens on either side it which brought us to the Gate called Porta del Popolo whereat we entred the City OF ROME OF Rome both
as in England no man touches viz. Kites Buzzards Spar-hawks Kestrels Jayes Magpies and Wood-peckers Nothing more commonly sold and eaten heer and in all Italy than Coots and Stares They spare not the least and most innocent birds which we account scarce worth the dressing much less powder and shot v. g. Robin-red-breasts Finches of all kinds Titmise Wagtails Wrens c. No want of fish either of fresh or salt water though it be sold commonly dearer than flesh as being brought a great way Scarce any fish to be found any where on the coast of Italy but some time or other it may be met withal heer Those that are the most frequent in the markets are of River or Fresh-water fish Pike Carp Tench Trout Eel Barble Chevin Dace I do not remember that I ever saw a Perch to be sold in Rome Of Sea-fish Mullus antiquorum which they call Triglia of which they have a Proverb La Triglia non mangia chi la piglia He that takes the Triglia eats it not This fish the French call Rouge from its colour and we in Cornwal where I have seen of them taken Surmullet Spiegole in Latine Lupus marinus of which kind I have not seen any in England Orate Giltheads Cephali which we in English call Mullet the ancients called it Mugil Sarde a kind of Sprat Conger Lamprey Sole Plaise and others of the flat kind Merluzzos which we call Hake sometimes small sturgeons Dog-fish of several sorts Tuny and Sword-fish is also to be sold heer Wild Boar and venison of wild Deer you shall seldom fa●l of to be sold in the Poulterers shops Their wild Deer they call Capreole it is for the most part very lean Porcupine also is sometimes to be sold in the markets Oranges and Lemons are cheap in Rome Pears and Apples if they be good and large fruit dear they sell them by weight heer as they do generally all over Italy Their bread is very good and light notwithstanding they use no yeast to raise it and cheaper than ours in England And heer by the way it may not be amiss to take notice that the use of yeast for the raising and fermenting of bread in these Northern Countries hath been very ancient I find mention of it in Pliny lib. 18. cap. 6. who thereupon gives their bread the preeminence for lightness Galliae saith he Hispaniae frumento in potum resoluto quibus diximus generibus spumâ itâ concretâ pro fermento utuntur Quâ de causâ levior illis quàm caeteris panis est Heer is great variety of Wines more sorts commonly sold than in any other City of Italy as Greco Lagrime or Naples Languedoc wine wine of Syragusa and Augusta in Sicily Orvietano Jensano Monte Pulciano di Monte fiascone Castelii Romano and which is most commonly drunk Albano Most of the wines are sweet and full-bodied and will bear half water Sweet wines they call abboccati and rough wines asciuti They have little wine so harsh and rough upon the palate as our French Claret and Florence red wine though those also are to be had heer Their Olives are small but good and sweet They have plenty of Wall-nuts and Hazel-nuts and other fruits the same that we have For Apples and Pears no Countrey hath better I had almost said so good as we in England For Apricocks I tasted none beyond the Seas comparable to ours Rome is noted for several commodities and manufactures as Viol and Lute-strings the best in Europe perfumed gloves combs made of Buffles horns womens fans Vitriol Essences Commonly all strangers that travel thither buy of those things not for their use only but to make presents of to their friends Heer is doubtless the best music in the world especially voices there being many Eunuchs and Nuns a great part of whose employment it is to sing in the Quire For pictures of the best masters Rome excells all places there being more heer than I think in all Italy besides so that Rome is become the school of Painters who come from all parts of Europe hither to study and practise At present Cavalier Bernini is the most noted and indeed only excellent Sculptor and Pietro de ●ortona the most eminent painter The ville as they now call them of the Princes and prime Nobility of Rome for gardens of flowers groves and thickets of trees cut hedges of Cypress Alaternus Laurel Bay Phillyrea Laurus tinus and other semper-virent plants close and open walks of great length orchards of fruit-trees Labyrinths fountains and ingenious water-works Bird-cages statues and other ornaments especially their greatness some being in compass 3 or 4 miles excel the orchards gardens and walks of any Prince in Christendom that I have seen Of these there are a great number but the chief of all are 1. The Villa Borghese of which family was Pope Paul V. This is esteemed the best of all the villae and gardens about Rome though it be not so vast as 2. the villa Pamphylia of which family was Pope innocent X. This is on the Janiculum without S. Pancras's gate and is said to be 4 miles in compass 3. The Villa Ludovisia belonging to the Prince Ludovisio of which family was Gregory XV. 4. The Popes garden at the Vatican called Belvedere 5. The Popes garden at monte cavallo 6. The garden of the Grand Duke or the villa de Medici 7. The garden of Montaltō 8. The garden of the Mattei In all which there are little palaces furnished and adorned with excellent statues bassi rilievi pictures and other curiosities which I forbear to enumerate and describe at large that I may not spend time and waste paper in writing what few will think worth their while or pains to read and which hath already been published by Mr. Lassels in his voyage of Italy to which I refer the curious for further satisfaction Of the palaces and public buildings I shall say nothing only I cannot forbear a word or two of S. Peter's Church which is in my opinion the most stately sumptuous and magnificent structure that now doth or perhaps ever did stand upon the face of the earth This was the only building that surprised me and exceeded my expectation being for a work of man the most pleasant and goodly not to say ravishing object that ever I beheld The whole pile of that majestic bulk and greatness that it exceeds in all dimensions the most famous Temples mentioned by the ancients being in length 520 foot as Mr. Lassels tells us and 385 in breadth and in some the greatest Christian Churches for though it be not so long as S. Pauls London yet is it much broader and in that respect much handsomer the breadth being more proportionate to the length The cupola of that marvellous highth and compass the diameter thereof be●ng equal to that of the Pantheon and sustaining on the top a huge stonelanthorn with great pillars of stone about it that it may
and proceeding on about 15 miles further we passed near to Chioza a large Town built among the lagune and Pelestrina a village standing upon the Argine or Lido we entred into the lagune at the haven of Malamocco and soon after arrived at Venice Feb. 9. of which City we have already written as much as suffices for our purpose We began our journey from Venice to Geneva by the way of Rhoetia and Swizzerland Passing by boat to Mestre 7 miles and from Mestre to Treviso by coach 12 miles At Treviso we took horses and a Vitturine for Trent in which journey we spent two days and an half it being almost 80 miles riding The first day we passed through C. Franco 12 miles and then over a fair champian Countrey to Bassano a very handsome and pleasant walled Town upon the river Brenta over which there is a good bridge of wood This Town drives a great trade of weaving silks As soon as we were past Bassano we entred among the mountains going up beside the river Brenta 14 miles and lodged at Pont Sigismund The second day we rode still up beside the river and about 2 miles from Ponte we passed through a gate where we paid Datii to the Arch-Duke of Inspruck At this pass is hewn out of the rock a box or little castle called Ca●olo a great height above the road to which there is no avenue at all but both the Souldiers that keep it and all their provisions must be drawn up by rope and pully only there is a fountain of fresh water in it Notwithstanding that this fortress belongs to the Arch-Duke yet the Venetian territory extends 4 or 5 miles further to a place called Sixteen miles riding brought us to a pretty little Town called Bergo and 13 miles more to Perzine a rich and populous Borgh 5 miles short of Trent Near this Town is a good valley but at our being there the snow was not melted Between Bassano and Ponte the Countrey on the left hand the river Brenta as we went up belongs to the Sette Commune and on the right hand to Bassano Upon the river were several saw-mills and a great quantity of timber floted down the stream to Padua As soon as we got among the mountains we every where found stoves in the houses instead of Chimneys The plants we observed in this journey were Erica Pannonica 4. Clus now in flower upon the sides of the mountains and the Rocks plentifully Fumaria bulbosa Leucoium bulbosum vulgare C. B. Leuc. bulbosum minus triphyllon J. B. We got early to Trent a pretty little City seated upon the river Athesis at the foot of the mountains which do encompass it almost round save the valley where the river runs The inhabitants speak altogether Italian and the Venetian money passes current among them notwithstanding their present Prince is Arch-Duke of Inspruck Beside the North door of the Domo we found the monument of Matthiolus having on it these inscriptions Above Herbarum vires nec rectiùs edidit alter Nec mage te clarus hac super arte fuit Si mens ut corpus depingi posset imago Vna Dioscordis Matthiolique foret Under his Effigies this D. O. M. Petro Andreae Matthiolo Senensi III Caesarum Ferdinandi Maximiliani Rudolphi Consiliario Et Archiatro Et Hieronymae Comitissae ex a●tiqua illustri Castellanorum seu Comitum Varmi familia Ferdinandus Matthiolus Caesari Ferdinando Austriae Archiduci Joanni Georgio Saxoniae Electori à consiliis cubiculis medicus Apostolica Imperiali auctoritatibus Sacri Pala tii Lateranen Aulaeque Caesareae comes Et armatae militiae eques auratus Vna cùm Maximiliano fratre Anniversariis precibus institutis Parentibus bene merentissimis PP Ann. MDCXVII Vixit ille an LXXVII Ann. Christi MDLXXVII obiit Tridenti Vixit illa an XXXII Obiit ibidem An. Dom. MDLXIX Below this Distich Saxa quidem absumit tempus sed tempore nunquam Interitura tua est gloria Matthiole On the front of the Quire is this following inscription concerning the Council held in this City Sacrosanctum postremum Oecumenicum generale Concilium fuit in hac celeberrima civitate celebratum quidem sub Papa Paulo III Anno MDXLV XIII Decembris pro felice inchoatione fuit facta Processio generalis per totam Urbem ab Ecclesia Sanctissimae Trinitatis ad hanc Ecclesiam Cathedralem quâ finitâ primus Cardinalis Praesidens qui postea fuit Papa Julius III prout etiam alter Card. Praesidens fuit Papa Marcellus II nominatus in hoc loco eminentiore tunc magis amplo ad celebrandum Concilium Sessiones faciendas deputato ad altare S. Gloriosissimi martyris Vigilii hujus Ecclesiae patroni celebravit missam de Spiritu S. Ac reliquis caeremoniis peractis fuerunt sub D. Paulo III celebratae octo publicae Sessiones cum decretis aliae tres ob vastam pestem in hac Urbe grassantem Bononiae ubi nihil fuit decretum Anno MDXLVII Postea cessante peste bellis fuit reductum hoc Concilium in hoc eodem loco fuerunt sub Papa Julio III celebratae aliae publicae sex Sessiones cum Decretis Annis 1551 1552 quibus interfuerunt tres Seren issimi Principes Ecclesiastici S. R. I. Electores Archiepiscopi Moguntinus Trevirensis Coloniensis 1° Die Septemb. 1551. hanc Urbem ingressi prout etiam Serenissimus Elector Brandenburgensis duos oratores huc ablegavit Demum sub Papa Pio IV Anno 1561 1563 fuerunt celebratae ultimae novem publicae Sessiones cum Decretis in Ecclesia S. Mariae majoris hujus urbis istius Ecclesiae Reverendissimo Capitulo incorporata sicuti etiam Ecclesia S. Petri. Et nihilominus ad pedes Sanctissimi Crucifixi tum in hoc loco existentis nunc aliò translati pro Decretorum corroboratione scmper fuerunt publicata omnia dicti Concilii Decreta Interfuerunt sub dictis summis Pontificibus celebrationi Cardinales Legati 13 inter quos Christophorus Madrucius non Legati 4 inter quos Ludovicus Madrucius Oratores Principum totius Europae 29 Patriarchae 3 Archiepiscopi 33 inter quos Archiepiscopus Rossaniensis qui postea fuit Vrbanus 7 nominatus Episcopi 233 Abbates 18 Generales ordinum 12 Theologiae Doctores 148 Procuratores 18 Officiales Concilii 3 Cantores 9 Natarii 4 Cursores Papae 2. Sacrosancto Spiritui S. omnium Conciliorum directori sacratissima Die Pentecostes Anno 1639. dicatum Heer are no remarkable Churches or other buildings The Bishop is both spiritual and temporal Prince Under him there is a Governour who yet can do nothing without the Council which consists of 8 persons viz. The Podestà or Mayor of the City the Capitaneo two Canons of the Church and 4 Gentlemen or Citizens All these are nominated and appointed by the Bishop and continue in power during life modò bene se gesserint There
fruits doth not inhere in the oil at least which is made by expression and it deserves examination whether the chymical oil may not also be devested of the taste of the vegetable from which it is extracted Olives when they come to maturity change colour and become black as some other plums do but it is very late in the year first They are then notwithstanding of a horrid and ungrateful taste firing the throat and palate of one that eats them They afford most oil when fully ripe but best as they told us when gathered and pressed green Sometimes they pickle ripe olives but they will not last therefore those which they pickle to send abroad are gathered green The pickle they use is nothing else but a brine of salt and water Near Peroul about a league from Montpellier we saw a boiling fountain as they call it that is the water did heave up and bubble as if it boiled This phaenomenon in the water was caused by a vapour ascending out of the earth through the water as was manifest for that if one did but dig any where near the place and pour water upon the place new digged one should observe in it the like bubbling the vapour arising not only in that place where the fountain was but all thereabout The like vapor ascending out of the earth and causing such ebullition in water it passes through hath been observed in Mr. Hawkley's ground about a mile from the Town of Wigan in Lancashire which vapour by the application of a lighted candle paper or the like catches fire and flames vigorously Whether or no this vapour at Peroul would in like manner catch fire and burn I cannot say it coming not in our minds to make the experiment From Montpellier we took a journey of pleasure to see the adjacent Countrey and first we rode to Frontignan a little wall'd Town by the Estang side 3 miles distant which gives name to the so famous muscate wine The Countrey about this Town toward the Sea southward lies open to the Sun but toward the land northward it is encompassed with a ridge of hills in form of a bow touching the Sea at each end so that the whole is like a Theatre in the Arena and on the sides of the hills grows the muscate grape of which this wine is made In this space are contained two other little Towns the one called Miraval the other Vich This last gives name to a mineral water springing near it much used heerabout It hath an acide Vitriolic taste but nothing so strong as our Spaw-waters and therefore I guess the operation of it is much weaker At Frontignan and other places we saw the manner of making raisins uvae passae They take the fairest bunches and with a pair of scissers ship off all the faulty grapes and tie two bunches together with a string Then they dip them in a boiling lye lixivium into which they put a little oil till they are very plump and ready to crack Jo. Bauhinus saith that they let them continue so long in the boiling lixivium quoad flaccescant tantùm corrugentur But we observed no such thing for they did not continue the bunches half a minute but presently took them out again and washed them in a vessel of fair cold water then they put them upon wooden poles for two or three days in the shade to dry and after that exposed them to the Sun taking them in in the night-time or rainy weather Cyprianus Eichov●ns describes the manner of making rai●ins in Spain thus There are saith he two sorts of Vvae passoe or raisins the one of those they call Raisins of the Sun of a blew colour the other of the Vvae passae Lixae which they call Frail or basket-Raisins In preparing the first sort they thus proceed When the bunch they design for that purpose begins to grow tipe they cut the foot-stalk of it half asunder that so the radical juyce or moisture may be at least in a great measure deteined and not pass to the grapes and so they leave it hanging on the vine Then by the heat of the Sun the grapes are by degrees dried When they are sufficiently dry they gather them and put them up in vessels The second sort they make on this fashion When they prune their vines they bind up the cuttings in faggots and reserve them till the vintage time Then they burn them and of their ashes make a lye or lixivi●m which they boil in great vessels and there in ●immerse the bunches of grapes one by one Afterwards to dry them they spread them upon a paved floor clean swept made for that purpose in the vineyard that so they may be the more speedily dried by the Sun-b●ams When they are sufficiently concocted and dried they put them up in frails or baskets After the same manner they prepare figs for to dry by dipping them in a lixivium made of the ashes of the dried branches of the figtre● cut off in pruning But however they superstitiously observe to make their lixivium for raisins of the ashes of branches pruned off of the vine c. I doubt not but the ashes of any wood indifferently taken would serve as well for that purpose From Frontignan we rode to Balleruch to see the hot waters which are used as well inwardly as outwardly At our being there which was in the beginning of September the water was scarce luke-warm they told us that in the Winter it was very hot The Bath is not above two flight-shots distant from the Estang and the water thereof tastes very salt and brackish whether by reason of the Seas being so near it or because the water comes from some salt mine I know not yet the latter seemeth the more probable because should it come from the Sea the water straining through so much sand would probably lose its salt by the way as we have found by experiment in England At Gabian about a days journey from Montpellier in the way to Beziers is a fountain of Petroleum It burns like oil is of a strong pungent scent and a blackish colour It distils out of several places of the rock all the year long but most in Summer time They gather it up with ladies and put it in a barrel set on one end which hath a spiggot just at the bottom when they have put in a good quantity they open the spiggot to let out the water and when the oil begins to come presently stop it They pay for the farm of this fountain about 50 crowns per. ann We were told by one Monsieur Beaushoste a Chymist in Montpellier that Petroleum was the very same with the oil of Jet and not to be distinguished from it by colour taste smell consistency virtues or any other accident as he had by experience found Upon the coast of the Mediterranean Sea in several places as at Berre near Martegue in Provence at Messina
city and the Duke never imposes any taxes but hath only all the tithes of the corn wine c. There is a Council of 36 changed every year and he that hath been of the Council must wait three years before he can be chosen again The last thing the Council does is to chuse a new Council for the year following This new Council is divided into four Ranks not equally but as the old Council shall think fit and their names are put into 4 boxes out of every box a child takes out one to be Consul He that is drawn out of the first box is the first Consul and so in order Near the town is a castle and in the castle a tower said to be built by Charlemagne Every Duke hath an oath given him by the Consuls wherein is an Article that he must reside in the castle which is never kept We passed through Kalah and lay at a single Inn a league and an half further four leagues and an half distant from Cardona We passed through S. Columba Roccafort and lay at Sirreall five leagues and an half We passed by Pobla a famous ancient Monastery about two leagues distant from Sirreall In the Church there are a great many monuments They told us that 13 Queens and 7 Kings lay interred there Then we passed Praves and lay that night at Coulnouvil 5 leagues All over Catalonia they reckon a league two hours and make account that 4 Catalonian leagues are equal to 6 French We heard that there were Amethysts also found about Praves We passed by Falsot two leagues from Coulnouville where are a great many Lead-mines The oar is very rich and they melt it just as it is taken out of the mine without beating it to powder They fell the oar for 40 Reals of Ardit the Quintal a Quintal being 122 pounds Five Quintals of oar usually yield four Quintals of lead This town and the mines about it belong to the Duke of Cardona They told us that the vein of metal lay always East and West The best and finest of this oar they grind to powder and thereof make varnish to lead earthen pots and vessels with sprinkling the powder upon the pots This night we lay at Tivisa four leagues We passed Venu-falet Tivians and lodged at Tortosa 6 leagues All along the way we saw a great deal of Palma humilis Hispanica non spinosa The fruit grew up in bunches out of the ground like the berries of Arum and was not much bigger Those that were ripe were of a reddish colour of an oblong figure and divided into 4 quarters those that were less ripe were yellowish The skin and pulp very thin and did but just serve to cover the stone It hath the smell and taste of Dates The stones being broken are not at all hollow but have a hard white kernel or pearl within them We observed also abundance of Garossus as they call it i. e. Caroba sive Siliqua dulcis the cods whereof they give their mules instead of provender The Spanish Soldiers at the siege of Barcellona had nothing but these Siliquae and water to live upon All over Catalonia the people are generally poor They use neither glass nor paper in their windows but only shuts of wood Tortosa is a very poor and desolate town There is a bridge of boats over the river Iberus now called Ebro in sight of which we rode all along from Tivisa hither At Tortosa they were wont to make salt-sellars mortars bouls beads c. of a kind of marble of a mingled colour red and yellow sound near the town which they call Jasper and of another greenish marble spotted with black brought from Genoa We went to the Jasper mine about 2 miles from the town with one of the chief workmen We saw there vast pillars hewn out and wrought for a Church in Palermo He told us that all the veins of marble jasper c. went from East to West That they sawed these stones to make tables c. with only water and sand That when there was not enough red in the stone they made little holes and set in red stones That the cement they used for all stones in Mosaic works was made of one half mastich and one half Greek pitch That in building they joyned the stones together with ordinary lime but on the outside they filled up the chinks with a cement made of the powder of the Jasper mingled with sulphur and Mangra to make it more white they put in more sulphur to make it more red they put in more Mangra The Jasper was hew'd out with chizzels and hammers just as stone in our stone-pits It is afterwards polished with Armoril i. e. the powder they use to polish armour with and to give it a lustre so that one may see his face in it with the powder of the cinders of the best Tin This day we set out towards Valence passing the Ebro by the bridge of boats and lodged at Galera a small village 2 leagues distant from Tortosa We passed by Tregera whereabouts seemed to be the ruines of an old Romane way Mattheau Salsandail and lay at Lescouvas 7 leagues Near Lescouvas we found store of Oleander with a red flower We passed Cabanos Pobletta Buriol villa real Annules 7 leagues This journey we saw a great many rivers quite dried up and for above a month together had scarce any rain That little that was always came just from the sea We passed Chinoes Almenaro Moulvedere an Saguntus Massa-magril Albalade and arrived at Valence 7 leagues Near Valence the Countrey is very populous and well cultivated Abundance of Mulberry-trees are planted in rows all the fields over As we passed through the Market-place at Valence all the people houted at us and threw parings of melons c. on our cloaks It seems they are not used to see strangers and travellers there This was the first place in Spain where we were searched In this city is an University I heard a Professor read Logic. The scholars are sufficiently insolent and very disputacious One of them asked me Quid est Ens universale and whether I was of Thomas Aquinas his opinion another Quid est Genus None of them understood any thing of the new Philosophy or had so much as heard of it None of the new books to be found in any of their Booksellers shops In a word the University of Valence is just where our Universities were 100 years ago In the Kingdom of Valence the King of Spain is not absolute but to impose taxes raise soldiers c. he must have the consent of the three Estates i. e. 1. The Clergy 2. The Nobility 3. The Cities and Villages and if one of these refuse to consent nothing can be done These three Estates have 6 Deputies 2 for each who are changed every third year Of the two for the Cities one is for the City of Valentia and
clay helps the separation and precipitation of it These conical pots are put into other pots into which by the hole at the vertex the juice dreins down through the course sugar at the bottom It dreins so for 5 or 6 moneths in which time the sugar in the conical pots grows hard and white all the juice being either drunk up by the lute or run out by the hole at the vertex This juice is boiled again so long as it is good for any thing but at last it makes only a foul red sugar that will never be better The conical loaves of sugar after they are taken out are set to drein over the same pots for 14 or 15 days To make the sugar more white they must boil it again but about one sixth is lost every time A pound of sugar of 12 ounces is sold at Olives for three sous and a half refined for 5 or 6 sous The sugar-juice is strained through strainers of linnen as it is put out of one Cauldron into another They take it out of the first and second Cauldrons so soon as it begins to boil but in the third Cauldron they let it boil till the scum rises and then take off only the scum with a scummer and put it into a long trough to cool and when it is cool put it into the conical pots One scum rises after another in the third Cauldron The scum when it is taken off is white but turns to a black liquor in the trough They never refine the sugar more than 3 or four times They use for the refining of it whites of eggs putting in 2 or 3 dozen into a Cauldron They use but one Cauldron for refining When it is refined it grows white and hard in 9 or 10 days The juice boiled up is eaten with bread tosted as honey The juice of the refined sugar is much better than the first juice The Duke of Gandia sends presents of this refined juice to the Queen of Spain When they refine it they put in a little water into the cauldrons to dissolve it the better But for a more exact description of the whole process of the Sugar-works I refer to Piso in his natural history of Brasil and Ligon in his Description of the Barbados The Sugar of Olives is better than the Sugar of Gandia At Meuttria in Granada they also make a great deal of Sugar About Valence Gandia c. the earth is alwayes wrought and never lies fallow or idle They reckon 5 Raccolta's or crops in one year 1. Of Mulberry leaves for silk 2. Wheat and other European grain 3. Darsi i. e. Maiz or Indian Wheat 4. Grapes 5. Olives and 6. at Gandia Sugar-canes After the wheat is cut they presently sow the Indian Wheat They complained that lately for a great many years together they had very vad Raccolta's for want of rain which had almost ruin'd Spain We passed Benegana and lay at Chativer six leagues and a half Chativer is an antient Town of the Moors and was once head of one of their little Kingdoms About a league from the Town began a very remarkable Aquaeduct made by the Moors It was just over a river along the side of a hill in most places not above a yard or two under ground and had a great many funnels just like the tops of chimneys to give vent and let out the water when there should be too much The tops of these funnels were made of a red clay and pebble stones The water came almost to the top in all of them but run over but in one We passed in sight of Montesa a castle belonging to the Knights of Montesa that wear a red cross Ortenente and lodged at Beobert 6 leagues Near Alicant among the mountains there is a very good breed of Falcons In the plains near Alicant grows abundance of Gramen spartum Plinii sive sportularum Officinarum J. B. i. e. Matweed of which the frails wherein they put raisins and other fruit are made This is Spain they call Spar at Marseilles Auffe The women heerabout gather abundance of this and steep it in sea-water till it be well softned Then they dry it and carry it by sea to Marseilles where they sell it at 8 escus the Milliere Every Milliere consists of 10 Packieres every Packiere of 100 Manados or handfuls Of this they make cables for ships baskets c. In this day journey we saw a great many fountains covered with long arches to hinder them from being dried up We passed Elda Novelda Aspe Clavillente Albitella and lay at Orivola 11 leagues We came to Murcia 4 leagues Near Orivola which City is an Episcopal Sea we observed many Turpentine-trees some in flower and some with ripe berries Near Elda they dig up a sort of Selenite which they burn and put into wine to clarifie it About a league from Orivola began the Kingdom of Murcia two leagues from Orivola we were fain to give money to avoid searching Murcia which gives denomination to this Kingdom is a pitiful desolate Town The Fish-market heer is shut up in cage or grate as at Genoa the people crowding about it and thrusting in their baskets as there We travelled through a miserable desolate Countrey to Mula 7 leagues We passed through Caravacca where they drive a great trade of making little crosses of silver brass wood c. After that Pilgrims Travellers c. have bought them they carry them to the Castle to touch them by a famous Cross which according to their fabulous Legend descended miraculously from heaven which forsooth infuses a wonderful virtue into them We lay this night at an odd house four leagues off Caravacca having travelled in all ten leagues We passed by Venta nova and came to Huesca 8 leagues At Huesca we first saw a yellowish white wine like sack The Kingdom of Granada began about 4 leagues before we came to Huesca The town of Huesca belongs to the Duke of Alva We passed by Basa and rested at Venta 8 leagues We travelled to Guadix an Episcopal Sea and ancient Roman Colony Upon the gates we took notice of this inscription Recepit Colonia Accitana Gemeliensis provinciae caput prima omnium Hispanicarum fidem Christi Jesu rejectis idolis evangelizantibus sanctis Torcato sociis Anno salutis 70 Pontificatùs S. Petri 37 imperii Neronis 13. Vrbs Accis patrono suo sanctissimo D. D. 1593. Honorati sunt Amici tui Deus Colonia Accitana We travelled to Granada 6 leagues distant from Desinos where we lodged the night before Heer we saw the Castle called La Lhambra the seat of the Kings of Granada Within the walls of the Castle live abundance of people which dare not live in the City for debt or other causes There is a fair Palace begun by Charles V and yet unfinished the outside of it is square but it is round within having two rows of Cloysters one above
vente de Maio de mill y quincentos y seys annos Rogad al Sennor por ellos Chocolate is sold at Sevil for something more than a piece of eight the pound Vanillas which they mingle with the Cacao to make Chocolate for a Real di Plato Acchiote which they mingle with the other ingredients to give a colour is made of a kind of red earth brought from New Spain wrought up into cakes it is sold for a Real di plato the ounce All the oil and wine they have in the West-Indies goes from Spain they not being permitted to plant Vines or Olive-trees that they may always have a dependence upon Spain At and near Sevil we paid two Reals de quarto a bed bread wine flesh and all other Commodities excessive dear excepting only Olives and Pomegranates which were better heer than in any other part of Spain There had lately been a great plague in Sevil which had very much depopulated and impoverished indeed almost rained the City I set out from Sevil towards Madrid the first day we travelled to Carmona where the Aqueduct forementioned begins 6 leagues in all which way we saw no houses but a great many Aloe-trees We passed Les fontes and lay at Euia a great Town of above 20000 inhabitants Between Carmona and Euia is a very good Countrey abundance of corn and olive trees Ossiuna is within 4 leagues of Euia where the Duke of Ossuna hoth a palace We travelled this day 9 leagues We passed over the river Xenil that runs into Guadalquivir baited at Arrasith and lodged at Cordova 8 leagues About a league from Cordova we passed another little river that runs into Guadalquivir Before we entred Cordova we rode over a great stone-bridge that heer crosses the Guadalquivir In the middle of the bridge stands a statue erected to the Angel Raphael with this inscription Beatissimo Raphaeli Angelorum proceri custodi suo vigilantissimo qui ante annos 300 sub Paschali antistite populum peste depopulante se medicum tantae cladis futurum praedixit qui subinde Anno 1578 venerabili Presbytero Andreae de Cas Roelas S. S. M. M. exuvias evulgavit tandem patefecit Cordubensium tutelam sibi à Deo demum datam Quare ut justa gratitudo diu staret S. P. Q. Cordubensis hanc lapideam statuam cautus pius erexit multâ procuratione Domini Josephi de Valdeanas Herera Domini Gundesalvi de Cea Rios Senatorum Pontifice Innocente X Hispan rege Philippo IV Episcopo Domino Fratre Petro de Tapia Praetore Domino Alphonso de flores monte negro Anno 1651. The most considerable places in Cordova are 1. The Bishops Palace 2. The Cavallerisca where the King keeps a great many horses 3. The ruines of Almansor's Palace the last King of the Moors 4. Plassa di Corridera 5. The Church of the Augustine Freres 6. The great Church which was anciently a Mosque It is large but very low supported by a great many rows of pillars in a quadrate order 16 rows one way and 30 another Upon many of the pillars are Moors heads carved in the stone and one or two with turbants on In the middle of this Church is the great Chappel where are several Bishops interred In one of the Chappels that is now dedicated to S. Peter in the Moors time was kept a thigh of Mahomet Round about the cornish of this Chappel and that part of the Church next it is an Arabic inscription The People complain grievously that Cordova is quite ruined and undone by Gabels and taxes We left Cordova and after a league or two riding entred the Sierra Morena a miserable desolate mountainous Countrey and lodged at a little village called Adamus 6 leagues We travelled all day through the Sierra Morena and lay at a village called La conquista 9 leagues In this days journey we saw abundance of galls upon the Ilices which were of like bigness figure colour consistency and other accidents with those that grow upon Oaks This day we first met with red wine again which they call Vino tinto We got safe out of Sierra Morena and came to Almedovar del campo a great Lougar 9 leagues About the middle of Sierra Morena are the bounds of Castilia nova and Andaluzia We passed by Caraquol Cividad real and lay at Malagon 10 leagues Between Malagon and Cividad real we passed over the river Anas now called Guadiana which was there but a little brook In this days journey we met with a great many great flocks of sheep and goats going towards the Sierra Morena out of Castile it being the custom all Summer to feed their sheep upon the mountains of Castile and in Winter in the Sierra Morena We passed by the ruines of an Aqueduct about 4 leagues from Malagon then Yvenas a good big lougar and lay at Orgas 10 leagues We passed through Toledo and lay at Esquinas 11 leagues As soon as ever we were passed the Sierra Morena we felt a great change of weather the warm air that comes from Afric and the Mediterranean Sea being stopped by the interposition of the mountains This day there was heer a hard frost and pretty thick ice The most considerable things in Toledo are 1. The bridge over Tagus consisting of but two arches one great one and one little one 2. The shambles where notwithstanding the coldness of the day I saw abundance of flies which confutes the story that there is but one great fly there all the year 3. The great Church where there are many monuments of Bishops but without inscriptions in the Capella maggior lie interred two Kings and in the Capella de los Res four Kings 4. The Kings palace 5. The ruines of a famous Engine to raise up water to the Kings Palace There is so little of it remaining that it is impossible thence to find out all the contrivance and intrigue of it Between Toledo and Madrid the Countrey is very populous and the soil very good All along the road from Sevil to Madrid the common fare is Rabbets red-leg'd Partridges and Eggs which are sufficiently dear We arrived at Madrid 6 leagues near the Town we passed over the river Xarante Madrid is very populous well built with good brick houses many having glass windows which is worth the noting because you shall scarce see any in all Spain besides The streets are very foul and nasty There is one very fair piazza or market place encompassed round with tall an uniform houses having 5 rows of Balconies one above another and underneath porticos or cloysters quite round The chief things to be seen in Madrid are 1. The Prison 2. The Piazza just now mentioned 3. The Kings Chappel 4. Palaces of several Noblemen as that of the Duke of Alva that of the Duke of Medina de los Torres c. 5. The Kings palace where there is the Kings Cavallerisca and