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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A49620	The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant.	Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson)	1670 (1670)	Wing L465; ESTC R2418	265,097	737

greatest Princes in Italy the Duke of Sauoy and Prince of Piedmont who is also treated with the title of Altezza Reale and Vicario Generale del Imperio in Italia This house of Sauoy which now gouerns here came anciently from Siguardo King of Saxony in the yeare of Christ 636 and hath conserued it self euer since that is for a thousand and odd years in a continual series of heroical Princes whose Pedegree was neuer vitiated nor interrupted by any degenerate offspring Fiue Emperors and four Kings haue yssued out of this house Anciently the Dukes of Sauoy kept their Court at Chambery or els at Bourg en Bresse a country now belonging to France vpon exchang with the Marquisat of Saluzzo as many of their tombes curiously cut in marble in the Augustins Church there yet shew It was Amadeo the Vof that name Duke of Sauoy that transferred the Court to Turin It was also this Amadeo who in memory of his Granfather Amadeo the IV who had defended Rhodes so brauely instituted the kinghthood of the Annunciata with this single motto in the collar of the order F. E. R. T. signifying that Fortitudo Eius Rhodum Tenuit The subiects of this Prince are sayd to be about eighteen hundred thousand souls His whole country with Piedmont and all is iudged to be two hundred miles long and fifty broad His forces thirty three thousand foot and fiue thousand horse and his Reuenews to be about a million of crownes besides what he can now and then rayse out of that fat country of Piedmont His Jnterest is to keep well with France and not fall out with Spayne As for the towne it self of Turin it s almost squar and hath four gates in it a strong Cittadel with fiue bastions to it it s well furnished with good prouisions in the market it stands in a fat soyle which makes it a little too durty in winter and it is an vniuersity The cheif things which I saw here were these 1. The Domo or Great Church in which is kept with great deuotion the Holy Syndon in which our Sauiours body was wound vp and buryed of the Verity of this Relick see Baronius in his Ecclesiastical History ad an 34 num 138. It s keept in a Chappel ouer the High Altar and showne publickly vpon certain dayes and priuatly To Embassadours and Prelats as they passe that way The late Duchesse Madame Christina began to make a fine Chappel for to keep it in but is was not quite finished when I passed that way last The Chappel is all of black marble adorned with stately black marble pillars indeed winding sheets such as this Relick is are things of mourning and are best set out in a mourning way 2. The Cittadelle standing at the back of the towne and keeping it in awe This Duke and his mother found the conuenience of this Cittadelle when by factions within the towne against them they were forceed to this Cittadelle and there weather it out stoutly till succour comeing to them from France made them masters againe of the towne and their enemyes 3. The Dukes new Pallace hansomely bu●lt with a fair Court before it a great Piazza and a large open street leading vp to it The Chambers are faire and hung with hangings of cloth of Tyssue of a new and rich fabrik with rich embrodered beds chairs stools cloth of State and Canopies The Dutchesses Cabinet the curious bathing place aboue hund round with the true pictures in litle of the prime Ladyes of Europe The curious inuention for the Dutchesse to conuey her selfe vp from her bedchamber to that bathing roome by a pully and a swing with great ease and saifty the great Hall painted curiously the Noble staircase the old long Gallery 100 paces long with the Pictures in it of the Princes and Princesses of the house of Sauoy with the Statues of the ancient Emperours and Philosophers in marble with a rare Library locked vp in great cubbords are the cheif rooms and ornaments of this Pallace I saw also the Appartiments or lodgeings of the old Dutchesse Madame Christina which ioyne to the old Gallery and in her Cabinet I saw many choyce pictures 4. The new street which runeth from the Pallace to the Piazza Reale is a fair street and built vniformly The shops below afford great conueniency to the townes men and the fair lodgings aboue to the noblemen and Courtiers 5. The Piazza Reale is built hansomly vpon Pillars like our Couent Garden and is full of nothing els but noblemens houses 6. The Augustins Church called S. Carlo standing in this piazza adornes it much being a neat Church and the best contriued that I saw in this towne 7. The Capucins Church vpon a hill out of the towne is aboue the rate of Capucins but you must know who gaue it not who haue it From hence I had a perfect view of Turin with the country about it 8. Some three miles out of the towne I saw a neat house of the Dukes called La Venerie Royale The Court set round with stagg● heads the chambers full of good Pictures the Hall painted with great Pictures of the Duke his mother his sisters and other Ladyes all on horseback as if they were going a hunting the place where they keep pheasants partridges and other such like birds the stable for 100 horse and the neat dogkennel are the best things to be seen in this house 9 On the other side of the towne about a mile of I saw the old Dutchesses house called La Valentine It stands pleasantly vpon the banks of Po and is adorned with great variety of pictures In fiue or six roomes on the right hand of the house they shewed me a world of pictures of all sorts of Flowers on the left hand as many of all sorts of birds with other pictures curiously painted The four pictures representing the four Elements with all that belongs to them as all the birds that fly in the air all the beasts that are found vpon the Earth all the fishes and shells that are found in the water and all things that belong to fire are so curiously painted in their seueral particular shaps colours that these four peeces are and abridgment of all nature and the admiration of all that behold them There are some other good peeces here too as the Magdalen fallen into an extasie the rapt of the Sabins and diuers others The others houses about the towne as Millefleur belonging to the Duke the Villa of the Princesse Marie with diuers others which shew themselues vpon the Hill side are very stately and worth seeing Hauing thus seen Turin we left the ordinary road which leads to Milan to wit by the way of Vercelle and Nouara two strong townes frontier to one another through which I passed in another voyage and to auoyd two armyes which lay in the way

found some pretty waterworks and grottes at the entrance and fine high walks aboue ouerlooking the place where the Circus Maximus stood anciently The scholers of the English Colledge in Rome haue a peece of this Hill for their Vinia and recreation place to breath on vpon dayes of Vacancy Following still my right hand I came to the Arche of Titus a Triumphal Arche erected to him vpon his victory ouer the Iews Hence you see here engrauen in mezzo rilieuo the sayd Emperour in a Triumphant Chariot and on the other side the Holy Candlestick of the Temple of Hierusalem the Arke of the Alliance and the Tables of the Law which this Emperour brought with him after his takeing of Hierusalem to grace his Triumph This is the most ancient Triumphal Arche in Rome and it stood in the Via Sacra which went vnder it Wheeling about the Campo Vaccino still on the right hand I came to the Church of Sancta Francesca Romana otherwise called Santa Maria Nuoua Here I saw the neat Tombe of that Sa●nt in brasse guilt made at the cost of Pope Innocent the X. Here 's also cut in white marble and standing vpon an Altar the history of the Popes returning again to Rome from Auignon I saw also here a rare sute of hangings belonging to this Church and giuen by the Sister of Pope Innocent the X. Hard by stands the Temple of Peace that is some remnants of that Temple It was once the most noble of all the Temples as the pillar before S. Marie Maiors Great dore which belongd to this Temple shew●th It was 200 foot large and 300 long but now little signes of its beauty remaine warres and time defaceing the monuments of Peace It was built by Vespasian who placed in it the spoyles of the Temple of Hierusalem brought to Rome by Titus Behinde this Temple stands a neat garden belonging once to Cardinal Pio where I saw neat water works It s now sold to another master Going on still in the Campo Vaccino on the right hand I came to the round Church of S. Cosmo and S. Damiano anciently the Temple of Castor and Pollux because the Romans haueing seen two men vpon sweating horses that told them news of a battle wonn by their Consul and so vanished they imagined them to be Castor and Pollux and thereupon decreed them this Temple The Masaick work in the roof of the Tribune deserues your particular attention for the Symbolical figures sake Going on still I came to the Church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda It was once a Temple dedicated to Faustina the Emperesse by her husbād Antoninus Poore man he could not make an honest woman in her lifetime and yet he would needs make her a Goddesse after her death The Portch of this Church is stately still by reason of its great marble pillars A little further stands the Church of S. Adriano anciently dedicated to Saturne who first taught the Italians to make Money therfore the Romans placed their Aerarium publicum The Publick Treasory in this Temple and had their Mint hard by it S. Martinas Church followes the next and in a low Chappel neatly adorned I saw her Tombe Here stood anciently the Temple of Mars the Reuenger Before this Church stands the Triumphal Arche of Septimius Seuerus rarely cut with figures in marble in mezzo rilieuo Half of it is buryed vnder ground the other half is sore battered with the ayre Who would think the ayre and the Earth to be deuouring elements as well as the fire and the water But why do I accuse the Ayre when its onely Time which taketh a pride to triumph our Triumphs that hath bettered this Triumphal Arch and moultered euen marble A little higher on the hill side stands the little Church of S. Joseph where I saw in the low grotte vnderneth the prison called anciently Tullianum into which prison S. Peter and S. Paul where shut up I descended into the low dungeon where S. Peter baptized Processus and Martinianus his two keepers with diuers others The Fountaine of water that sprung vp miraculously for that holy function is still seen there in the bottom of that dungeon Many other braue buildings stood anciently in this Foro Romano worth remembring as the Comitium or publick place of assembly so called a coeundo it being the Great Hall of Iustice in which was erected a large Tribunal were the Praetor our Lord Chief Justice sat in an Iuory chaire called Cella Curulis and ministred iustice to the people In this Comitium stood the Statue of Horatius Cocles and in the corners of it those of Pithagoras and Alcibiades In this Foro also stood the Rostra a great Pulpit made of the Rostra or brasen snouts of the ships wonn from the Antiates where Orators vsed to plead and were Tully thundered Behinde the Rostra stood Romulus his Tombe and before the Rostra the Tombe of Faustulus the Foster Father of Romulus Mounting vp from hence to the Capitol by the Coach way I saw vpon the side of the Hill the pillars that belonged once to the Temple of Concorde built by Camilus and not farre from hence three other pillars of neat Fabrick which belonged to the Temple of Iupiter Tonans Thundering Iupiter built there by Augustus Cesar after he had escaped a thunderclap which killed his Litterman close by him Arriuing at the Capitol I was glad to see that place so famous in the Roman story It s name of Capitol came from the Head of a man caput in Latin found vnderground when they first layd the foundation here of the Temple of Iupiter Capitolinus Iustus Lypsius as if he had been the Godfather of that man whose head was found here sayth that his name was Tolus and that from Caput Toli came Capitolium This head found here portended that Rome should one day be the head of the world And this title is so vniuersally knowne to belong to Rome that all authors affirme it and euery petty artisan in Rome will tell you so though in false Latin as one did me when hearing me prayse Rome and thinking that I did it not enough cryed out to me half in Italian and half in Latin Caspitra Signore Roma est capus mundi which saying made me both smile and say to my self that such a Head as this fellows found now vnder-ground would portend the ruine of the Latin tongue I went first to the highest part of that Hill called anciently Rupes Tarpeia It looks downe vpon the Theater of Marcellus and is nothing so high a hill as I conceiued when I first read Liuy For I expected to haue found here a hill at least like that in India called Dorin which Curtius describes Munster paints out and Hercules could not take but comeing to it I found it to be a hill of that easy ascent that I had ridden vp farre higher in Sauoy

practise as I did to mount vp the chief Steeple of all great townes 13. The great Hospital built in a quadrangle vpon arches and round pillars is a most magnificent thing Really if sickness where not a little vnwholesome and troublesome a man would almost wish to be a little sick here where a King though in health might lodge hansomely The place where the sick people are kept is built crossewise and in the middle of that crosse stands an open Altar where all the sick people from their seueral quarters and from their very beds may heare the Diuine seruice at once Four thousand men are entertained dayly in this Hospital and therefore it hath great reuenews S. Charles was a great benefactor to it and gaue away to it and other pious vses in half an hour fiue and twenty thousand crownes of inheritance which were fallen to him being a man of eminent birth half an houre before Indeed he had no other wife then his Church nor other children then the poore 14. The stately Seminary and the Colledge for the Swissers are noble buildings and the Eternal workes of the foresayd S. Charles 15. The Lazzaretto is a Vast building carrying in compasse a thousand and eight hundred yards It stands neare the towne walls yet out of the towne and it is to receiue into it Those that are sick of the plague There are as many chambers in it as there are dayes in the yeare In the middle of the squar of this vast court or quadrangle stands a round Chappel couered at the top but open on all sides in such a manner as that all the people from their seueral chambers and beds may behold the Priest saying diuine seruice and joyne their deuotions to his I haue read in the life of S. Charles Borromaeus that in a plague time he visited those that were infected and ministred the holy Sacraments to them himself in person and went in a solemne Procession in the head of the Clergy with a rope about his neck and barefoot vpon the stones to moue stony hearts to repentance and to appease the wrath of God angry with his people 16. The Biblotheca Ambrosiana is one of the best Libraries in Italy because it is not so coy as the others which scarce let themselues be seen wheras this opens its dores publikly to all comers and goers and suffers Them to read what book they please It was begun to be builded by S. Charles and continued by his Nephew Cardinal Federico Borromaeo but it was much augmented since by the accession of Vincentius Pinellis books which after his death being shipped by his heirs for Naples and taken by the Turks were many of them throwne ouer board by those analphabet Rogues who looked for other merchandize then books Yet many of them were recouered againe for money and set vp here Ouer the heads of the highest shelues are set up the pictures of learned men a thing of more cost then profit seing with that cost many more books might haue been bought and learned men are best ●een in their books and writings Loquere vt te videam 17. Behind the Library stands the Gallery of pictures where I saw many choyce Originals of prime masters and some exquisit Coppies as those four peeces of the four Elements which certainly are coppied after those that I described aboue in the house of the Dutchesse of Sauoy neare Turin called la Valentine But the rarest peece of all either in the Library or here is the rare Manuscript kept here of Alberto Dureo Three hundred pounds haue been refused for it 18. The Dominicans Library is very considerable too But you must not omit to see the Refectory here where you shall finde an admirable picture of the last supper made by Rare Laurentius Vincius The painted Cloister here deserues a visit too 19. The Monastery also called the Gratie is one of the best in Europe in whose Church is a rare picture of Christ crowned with thorns of the hand of Titian 20. The famous Gallery and curiosities of Canonico Setali farr better then that of Monsieur Seruier in Lyons of which aboue And here I wish my pen were as ingenious to describe all the rare things of this Gallery as the noble Canon setali hath been in gathering them and courteous in shewing them some of these curious things I yet remember for my Readers sake as a great variety of burning glasses and yet not Conuexe as ours ordinarily are one of them set fire presently to a peece of board an inch thick that was brought forth 2. A Mandragora 3. a bird without feet called by Aristotle Apodes 4. a stone out of which is drawne a thread which being spun and wouen makes a stuff like linnen indeed but of an incombustible nature The stone is called Asbestos and the stuff Amyanthus which being fowle and soyled is not be made cleane by washing in water but by throwing into the fire Baltazar Bonifacius in his Historia Ludicra tells of many who had such stuff 5. a world of rare Meddals of the old Consuls and Emperours in syluer gold and brasse makeing diuers series 6. a world of woodden things as also fruits and fungi all petrifyed and turned into stone and yet no metamorphosis neither the things retaining their pristin formes 7. Diuers curious clocks whereof one shews the time of the day strang euen in the night by a quadran 8. The little round Cabinet flat aboue like a childs drum with a smooth glasse The master setting little ships coaches c. vpon the glasse they wheele and moue vp and downe as it were of themselues when all is done by a sympathetical vertue and by the masters turning secretly a little wheele where there is fastened some loadstone and the little ships and coaches hauing also some peece of iron in their bottoms which touch the glasse and so the iron running after the loadstone moued by the wheele makes these shipps and coaches seem to moue of themselues 9. A peece of a thunderbolt which the Canon himself sayd he had cut out of a mans thigh strucken with it 10. Diuers peeces of Coral iust as it growes in the Sea 11. A little Pillar two handfull high of marble so carcked that it gapeth wide on one side with the crack and yet holdeth together fast on the other side as a great stick of green wood doth when it is bent so farre on one side as to gape and yet sticks together on the other 12. A world of rich iewels strange stones cameos pictures crystals little infants in waxe in glasse cases and many other exotick rarityes which are better seen then described 21. Some Pallaces here as that of the Gouernours rather vast then curiours and fitter to lodge Regiments of Gards in them Viceroys The Pallace of Marini is of a noble structure That of the Archbishop is very hansome I saw also the Pallace of

yeare It s vnder tho Emperors protection and it hath about thirty thousand souls in it Approching vnto it it looked like a pure low-country towne with its brick walls large ramparts set round with trees and deep moates round about the walls It hath eleuen bastions well garded by the townesmen and well furnished with Cannōs of a large sise The towne is three miles in compasse it hath thirty thousand muskets or half muskets in its Arsenal eight thousand pikes two thousand brest peeces of musket proof and store of great artillery The whole State for a need can arme eighteen thousand men of seruice and it hath about fiue hundred thousand French liures a yeare It was in this towne that Caesar Pompey and Crassus met and agreed among themselues that all things in Rome should passe as they pleased The chief things to be seen here are The Cathedral called S. Martins whose Bishop hath the ensignes of an Archbishop to wit the vse of the Pallium and the Crosse and whose Canons in the Quire weare a rochet and Camail and miters of silk like Bishops 2. The towne house or Senate house where the Confaloniero liues dureing the time of his charge 2. The Church of S. Frediano belonging to the Canon Regulars where in a Chappel on the left hand is the Tombe of S. Richard King of England who dyed here in his pilgrimage to Rome 4. The Augustins Church where is seen a hole where the Earth opened to swallow vp a blaspheming gamester Of this towne was Pope Lucius the III. the two famous men of this towne the one for soldiery the other for learning were braue Castrucio and Sanctes Pagninus a great Hebrician There are fiue townes more belonging to Lucca to wit Ca-magior Viareggia Montignoso Castilione and Minucciano From Lucca we went to Pisa some ten miles off This was once the head towne of a florishing Republick and then the Numantia of Florence and scorning its yoke but now it croucheth to it It stands in no very good ayre and therfore hath been vexed with diuers plagues The grasse in the streets of this Vniuersity read me this lecture and I beleeued it Wherupon I resolued to stay here one day onely in which time I saw 1. The Domo whose Canons officiate in Scarlate like Cardinals This is a neat Church for structure and for its three brazen dores historyed with a fine basso rilieuo It s built after la maniera Tedescha a fashion of building much vsed in Italy four or fiue hundred yeares ago and brought in by Germans or Tedeschi sayth Vasari 2. Neare to the Domo stands if leaning may be called standing the bending Tower so artificialy made that it seems to be falling and yet it stands firme Ruituraque semper stat mirum moles 3. On the other side of the Domo is the Campo Santo a great square place cloistered about with a low cloister curiously painted It● called the Campo Santo because therein is conserued the Holy earth brought from Hierusalem in 50 Gallies of this Republick an 1224. These Gallies were sent by the Republick of Pisa to succour the Emperour Aenobarbe in the Holy Land but hearing of his death when they came thither they returned home againe loaden with the earth of the Holy Land of which they made this Campo Santo 4. Some good Colledges there are but vnfrequented then by reason of a late plague none running faster from the plague then schollers especialy when it comes neare to the schools 5. The publick Library is much enriched with the accession of Aldus Manutius his Library 6. The garden of Simples may be rare but wee not vnderstanding this hearbe language hastened to the house of the Knights of S. Steuen 7. This is the onely Order of Knighthood that I perceiued in Florence and it s very common They weare a red crosse of satin vpon their cloaks and professe to fight against the Turks For this purpose they haue here a good house and maintenance Their Church is beautifyed without with a hansome faciata of white marble and within with Turkish Ensignes and diuers Lanterns of capitanesse gallies In this house the Knights liue in common and are well maintained In Their Treasory they shew you a great buckler all of Pearle and Diamonds wonn in a battle against the Turks Indeed bucklers of Diamonds do but show our enemyes where we are and what they may hope for by killing vs. They haue in their Cancellaria a Catalogue of those Knights who haue done notable seruice against the Turks which serues for a powerfull exhortation to their successors to do and dy brauely In fine these Knights may marry if they will and liue in their owne particular houses but many of them choose celibate as more conuenient for braue soldiers wifes and children being the true impedimenta exercitûs Heretofore during the great disorders of the Guelfs and the Gibelins Anno 1282 this towne was gouerned by Vgolin a proud man who ruled here despotically This man inuiteing one day all his friends to a great feast began in the midst of it to brag that nothing was wanting to him yes sayd on of his best friends because on who flattered him not ther 's one thing yet wanting to thee Vgolin to-wit the Anger of God which is not farre from thee And it proued true for presently after the Gibelins russhing into the pallace of Vgolin chief of the Guelfs killed in his sight one of his sonns and his nephew and taking him with two other of his sonns and three nephews they shut him vp in a strong Tower and threw the Keys into Arno where the poore man that braged euen now in a feast dyed soon after of hunger hauing first seen his children and nephews dye of hunger in his armes A rare example to teach proud men that ther 's often but one day between a powerfull man and a poore man between a great Feast and a great Fast Here in Pisa were called two Councils the one 1409. the other 1511. From Pisa we went to Ligorne Portus Liburnus in Latin through a pleasant forrest This is the onely hauen the Great Duke hath and the mouth which letteth in that food which fatteneth this State We stayd not long here the season pressing vs to be gone and this towne being soone seen For the towne it s but little yet one of the neatest hauen townes a man can see Heretofore it was not sufferable by reason of the bad ayre but since Ferdinan the first built it a new and dryed vp the neighboring Fenns gathering much of the water into a cut channel which goes from hence to Pisa and carryes great boats the towne is twice as wholesome and thrice as rich as it was The things I saw in this towne were these 1. The Mole which shutts vp the hauen 2. The Lanterne which with seauen lights guides in ships in the night 3. The Hauen it self

a hundred and thirty Bishops called by Nicolas the III with three great Saints S. Bernardin reformer of the Minorits S. Katharine the holy Virgin and Beatus Colombanus Institutor of the Order of the Iesuati a man of great learning and Sanctity with fiue good Popes to wit Alexander the III of the house of Bandinelli Pius II of the house of Piccolomini Paulus V of the house of Burgesi and Alander the VII of the house of Chisi And in fine it hath furnished the world with two champions in learning Ambrosius Politi or Catharinus who wrote learnedly against Luther and Erasmus and Adriano Politi who wrote against Ignorance by his learned Dictionary He that would know in particular the history of Siena let him read Orlando Maleuolto From Siena we went to Bon Conuento Tornieri San Quirico inconsiderable places vpon the rode and so to Radicofino a strong Castle vpon a high hill built by Desiderius King of the Longobards This is the last place of the Florentin state but not the least in strength Dineing here at the Great Dukes Inn at the bottom of the hill we went to lodge at Aquapendente which is some 12 miles off and the first towne of the Popes state This towne stands vpon a hill from which the waters trickling downe softly are sayd to hang there and giue it the name of Aquapendente Of late this towne is made a Bishops Seate by the Demolition of Castro and the remooual of the Bishops Seat from thence hither which happened vpon this occasion Castro was a towne belonging to the Duke of Parma Thither Pope Innocent the X. sent a good Bishop to gouerne that flock but the Bishop vpon his arriual being killed there the Pope sent Conte Vidman General then of the Church with order to demolish Castro and he himself transfered the Bishops seat from thence to Aquapendente and all this according to the Canon law which ordains that that Citie which kills its Bishop should be depriued of the Bishops seat euer after From Aquapendente we came to a little towne called San Lorenzo and not long after to Bolsena anciently called Vrbs Volsinensium Here it was that happened the famous Miracle in confirmation of the Real presence of Christs body and blood in the Blessed Sacrament which happened an 1263 and which gaue occasion to Pope Vrban the IV to command that the Feast of Corpus Christi should be kept holyday euer after The Miracle is related by Leandro Alberti the Camden of Italy and by learned Onuphrius Panuinus in the life of Vrban the IV. We passed also that morning by the side of the Lake of Bolsena in the midle of which is a little Iland in which Amalasuinta Queen of the Ostrogoths a woman of singular parts was miserably murthered by her nearest kinred Here 's also a little Conuent of Capucins Hauing passed along this Lake a great while we entered at last into a wood called anciently Lucus Volsinensium and now Bosco Helerno It was formerly a dangerous passage for Bandits but now its free from danger since Sixtus Quintus purged the Ecclesiastical State of that Vermin by makeing a Law that whosoeuer should bring in the head of a Bandit should haue pardon impunity recompence too of some hundred crownes wher vpon the Bandits soone destroyed one another From this wood we soone came to Montefiascone standing vpon a hill It s a Bishops Seat and famous for excellent Muscatello wine and this wine is famous for hauing killed a Dutchman here who drunk too much of it The story is true and thus A Dutchman of cōdition traueling through Italy sent his man before him alwayes with a charge to looke out in the Inns were the best Wine was there write vpon the Wall of the Inn the word EST that is to say Here it is The seruant comeing hither a little before his Master and finding the wine excellently good wrote vpon the Wall EST EST EST signifying thereby the superlatiue goodness of this wine The Master arriues lookes for his Mans hand-writing and finding three ESTS is ouer ioyed In he goes and resolues to lye there and he did so indeed for here he lyes still buryed first in wine and then in his graue For drinking too much of this good wine he dyed here and was buryed by his seruant in a Church here below the Hill with this Epitaph vpon his Tombe made by the same seruant Propter EST EST EST herus meus mortuus est It was here also that the gallantry of the braue Roman General Camillus appeared very much For while he was besieging this towne called then P●aliscum or Phalerii a treacherous schoolmaster hauing brought vnto him the chief of the yong youths of the towne whom he had deceitfully drawne vnto the Roman Camp vnder pretence of takeing the ayre a broad by which means Camillus might haue frighted their Parents to an vnworthy rendition the braue Roman who scorned to ouercome by any other way then that of Gallantry caused the schoole master to bee stripped his hands to be tyed behind his back and to be led into the towne againe with the little youths whipping him as he went till he had brought them home againe This nobleness of Camillus tooke the towne presently because it tooke with the townesmen who admireing the Romans Generosity submitted willingly to Camillus who had chosen rather to take towns By this owne Valour then by other mens iniquity Indeed as Valerius Maximus sayth it did not become Rome built by the sonn of Mars to take towns otherwise then Martially From Montesiascone we went downe the Hill by an easie descent vnto Viterbo This is an Episcopal Seat standing in a wholesome ayre and therefore called Viterbium as it where Vita Vrbium Here are excellent fountains of water and store of them but its pitty none of them runn with good wine to make a mends for the bad which are most of them Vini cotti The two factions here of the Gatti the Maganesi these standing for the Vrsini those for the Colonnesi ruined heretofore Viterbo ouer ouer againe In the Domo there are the tombes of 4 Popes as also in the Franciscans Church some tombes of Popes and of S. Rosa you see the body of that Saint yet entire though buryed aboue 100 years ago She lyes along in her tombe and is seen by the drawing of a curtain from before her Here 's an Academy of wits called Gli Ostinati to shew perchance that a man cannot be learned without obstinate labour and paynes Hence the Poët makes his learned man to be one who multum sudauit alsit and Persius tells vs that his delight was to grow pale with obstinate night study Velle suum cuique est c. At me nocturnis juuat impallescere chartis About a mile from Viterbo stands a neat Church and Conuent called Madonna del Querco and as farre

of the seauen Bishops Seats about Rome which are giuen to the Eldest Bishop Cardinals that they may be at hand alwayes and ready to assist the Pope in his affairs of importance The others are Porto Ostia Frescati Tiuoli Preneste Veletri In Albano I saw nothing of moment but an old Church and some old houses yet seing it stands in so good an ayre I wonder the great men of Rome haue not built houses here where the wine is so exquisitly good Indeed this wine makes this towne bee much taken notice of by all strangers as being the best wine that 's constantly drunck in Rome Hard by Albano stands Castel Gandulfo the Popes country house in sommer It stands very pleasantly haueing on one side of it a Lake and woods and on the other the Campania of Rome and the Citie it self in view I stept into this Castel but found nothing but bare walls it beeing then vnfurnished From hence We went to Frescati called anciently Tusculum This is absolutly one of the sweetest places in Europe The towne is but little but round about it especially on the hill side there are so many curious Villas Pallaces Gardens Fountains Shady walkes and Sommer delights that I wonder not if Princes Cardinals and other great persons retire hither in sommer In a word here Cato was borne here Lucullus delighted himself and Cicero studyed and wrote his Tusculans Questions The first place we went to see here was the Villa Aldobrandina This Villa is also called the Beluedere of Frescati because it stands so pleasantly haueing the Campania of Rome and Rome it self in sight on one side and on the other the hill side all couered with Laurel trees curious fountains cascatas and other delightsome water works which afford here a coole season euen in the months of Iuly and August The variety of these water works are so many and so curious that I cannot but describe them First then the rare Cascata presents it self and it s made thus At the turning of a vast Cock the water which is brought throught a great Hill from a source fiue miles off spouts out of the top of two high windeing pillars of stone which stand mounted vpon the head of a high pair of open stairs and then falling downe vpon the same pillars againe it follows the winding bent of them cut into channels and little gutters and so warbles about these pillars visibly till it arriue at the foot of them There findeing yssue it falls vpon the foresayd stairs and couers them all with a thin glideing streme which mikes an open staircase of water Besides this water sets a number of little fountaeins on worke which stand on either side of these stairs and descends by degrees with them so that in a moment the whole hill side is spowting out water and filling the ayre with a sweet murmur 2. Then the Gardener turneing an other cock aboue giues at once such store of winde and water to the great Girandola below the stairs in the Grotte of Atlas that it imitateth perfectly Thunder Hale Rayne and Mist 3. By this time the great Statue of the Centaure with a hunters horne at his mouth windeth it duely and in perfect measure 4. Pan also playes on his mouth-organ tuneably 5. Whilest the Lyon and the Leopard feighting together spit angerly in one anothers faces though all passe in cold blood because in cold water 6. These waters also afford innumerable inauoidable wetting places as the false stept in the stairs the wetting place behinde Pan the other wetting place behinde the Centaure and the little vnderground spowts on all sides 7. Then the Hall of Apollo is opened were he sitting vpon Mount Parnassus and the nine Muses vnder him in a circle with seueral winde instruments in their hands strike vp all together melodiously whilest an vntouched organ vnderneath the hill playes à soft ground to the Muses instruments 8. During this melody a little round hole in the midst of the roome bloweth out from below such a coole and stiff winde that it bears vp a little hollow ball of copper a yard from the ground Ouer the dore is this distick Huc ego migraui Musis comitatus Apollo Hic Delphi hîc Helicon hîc mihi Delos erit Then being led to see this hydraulick organ and to view what fingers arte had lent vnto water I found the Organ to be made thus First the Pipes are like other organ pipes of lead and set in a close frame as the manner is with stops and touches to them Close to these stops the force of water turnes a wee le made like a great drum and as long as the organ This wheele hath in it here and there diuers peeces of brasse about the thickness of a half crowne peece and iust as broad as the stops of the organ These brasse peeces sticking out iust so farre as to reach the stops in their turning about and to presse them downe as the organists fingers do and being placed here and there in that musical distance as to strike their note in tune as they turne about leisurely they all together compose a perfect and sweet harmony the winde pipe of this roome mentioned euen now serueth sufficiently for bellowes to his organ as well as to the wind ●nstruments of the Muse● all is caused by force of water But as we were taken with these water works which make this organ play in tune we were suddenly ouertaken with another watter worke which playing terribly vpon vs put vs quite out of tune so seldome doth winde come without water Hauing seen this garden and Pallace we went to the Villa of Prince Ludouisio which is hard by The house is but little but the garden is both large and adorned with store of waterworks so that if the gardener befriend you not you cannot escape without being soundly we● One thing I obserued in this Pallace here that the curtains of the beds are so wrought with little holes by neadle worke that the ayre may enter by them but not the gnatts From hence we went to the Villa of Prince Burghese called Montedragone from the Dragon in his armes It stands a mile and a half from the Beluedere and the way to it is through curious walkes of laurel trees The house is stately and capable of lodging a King with his whole court The Chambers are neat and fit for both seasons winter and Sommer I saw diuers good pictures in them The last Supper is of Alberto Dureos hand and hugely esteemed The story of Polyphemus is of the hand of Lanfranco But that which pleased me best was the hall below full of the true pictures of famous men both for learning and armes It s an excellent schoole where a man may learne much true skill in physiognomy and see how Worthyes looked This Hall lets you out into the little neat garden