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A65620 A journey into Greece by George Wheler, Esq., in company of Dr. Spon of Lyons in six books ... : with variety of sculptures. Wheler, George, Sir, 1650-1723.; Spon, Jacob, 1647-1685. 1682 (1682) Wing W1607; ESTC R9388 386,054 401

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provided with Ammunition and Artillery To the Westward of it is a large place which they call the Splanade from the middle of which beginneth a large street that runneth Westward thorough the City On the right hand in this street standeth the Cathedral Church dedicated to Saint Spiridion first Bishop of that place whose Body they are perswaded they have and there with great Veneration preserve it They attribute to him the doing a Miracle about Thirty-five years since restoring the sight to a blind man who came and prayed to him prostrating himself before his Body And of this they keep an Annual remembrance ever since which happened when we were here They make profession of the Greek Religion but are in most things Latinized except in Obedience to the Sea of Rome the Infallibility of the Pope and the Procession of the Holy Spirit They have not a Greek Bishop allowed them but there is a Latin one and a Protopappa Greek This Church is well furnished with Silver Lamps and one of Gold given by a Gentleman of Corfu who by his Will left Five thousand Cichins which amount to about Three thousand pounds sterling to buy it Here are several ingenious men and moderately learned especially Cavalier Marmero who hath writ the History of this place in Italian and hath a Collection of Medals but most of them such as concern the Antiquity of the place He derives his name from the Isle Marmero in the Propontis of which his Family were once Masters He is a person of great Worth and Honour both as to his personal Qualities and his Extraction being descended of the Family Comneno Emperours of Greece This little digression Reader I owe to this Generous Friend whose name I have reason to mention with gratitude The Protopappa or Chief Priest called Panagiotti Bulgary is but young yet Learned not only in Greek but Latin He gave us some Books of the Office used in Honour of Saint Spiridion with a relation of his Life to present to the Patriarch of Constantinople Hierassimo Machi Abbot of Palaiopolis is also a Learned man who retired hither from Candia after it was surrendred to the Turks He hath a Study of a great many M. SS amongst which are twenty never yet printed as a Commentary of Origen upon the Gospel of Saint John Saint Augustin de Trinitate Translated out of Latin into Greek one of which I bought afterwards at Athens among other Manuscripts and the Sermons of Ephrem an ancient Monk He hath printed a Dictionary Tetraglot Ancient and Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian as also a Systeme of Philosophy He hath a Nephew named Arsenio Calluti who is also Learned in Latin Greek and Divinity and is esteemed a good Preacher He Studied at Padua and is now first Pappa of the Church Panthagii or All-Saints in Palaiopoli Among his Books he shewed us a Manuscript of Saint John Damascen never yet printed as I know of and is a kind of Epitome of all his Works And another being a Commentary of Ptocho-prodromus on the Hymns of the Greek Church There are also several other Learned men there as namely Dr. Cappello young but skillful in the Civil Law and in other Gentile Learning He told us he had composed a Dictionary in Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian more ample than any yet extant The Doctors Justiniani and Lupina are likewise men of esteem there But I must not forget my good Friend Signior Spiridiani Arbeniti who hath also a little Collection of very curious Medals a great lover of Antiquity and a very civil person He received us with the greatest kindness imaginable taking the pains to shew us all things that are rare in that place Sometimes he went with us a foot and at other times when need required furnished us with his own and friends Horses and always favoured us with his good company 2. The soil of Corfu is not so fruitful as to supply the Inhabitants with Corn but they are provided from the Continent from which it is separated by a narrow Streight of four or five miles over near to Cassiopa It is nevertheless fertile in Wine and Oyl and all sorts of good Fruit. We had a present sent us of Figs Filberds and Currant-grapes then scarce ripe the Figs being a large green kind they call Fracassans having in the middle a round lump of Jelly of the bigness of a Nutmeg very delicious and refreshing in the heats of Summer Here are also abundance of Oranges and Limon-Trees I found several curious Plants in this Island among others these 1. Thymus Capitatus a very rare Plant and scarce ever seen in our Parts I have furnished our Gardens with its seed but it did not come up I judg'd it to have been Savoury until I informed my self better because in smell it resembles that rather than ordinary Thyme But is undoubtedly that which Dioscorides hath deseribed under that name of Thymus 2. Lysimachia Hysopi folio 3. Scabiosa flore nigrescente caule altissimo forsan Peregrina B. 4. Cyperus Gramineus Millearius 5. Malva trimestris 6. Scammonea 7. Polium Creticum 8. Acarna flore patulo rubente 9. Stoechas odorata 10. Centaurium majus album 11. Centaurium rubens Spicatum 12. Centaurium ramosum rubens 13. Centaurium ramosum album 14. Origanum Heraclioticum 15. Vitex flore caeruleo albo 16. Consolida regalis foetida 17. Glichyriza 18. Pulegii species erecto caule Latifolio incano vel hirsuto I. He carried us one day to see the Ruins of Paloeopoli the ancient Metropolis of the Island It stood on a Promontory to the South of the present City separated from it by a little Bay of about a mile or two over The abundance of Ruins and Foundations which are to be seen there do sufficiently demonstrate it to have been so The ground it covered is almost an Island and therefore anciently called Chersopolis It had on the South-West a good large Port for Vessels of those days but now has hardly water enough for small Shallops The mouth is narrow and was secured by a Chain the place to which it was fastened being yet to be seen There has been formerly an Aqueduct to bring fresh water to it from a Spring which we saw by a Church towards the Sea-side from whence the Water was conveyed by a Channel made thorough the Rock in Earthen-Gutters of about a yard long and an inch thick apiece curiously joyned to one another whereof great quantities are found thereabouts Besides abundance of Foundations of Temples Arches Pillars and Marble Inscriptions have been dug up here and employed to build the new Fortifications of the present City Signior Marmero in his History hath given a Plane of the old City which is now covered all over with Olive-trees and here and there an old Church standing among them the two chief that still remain are Panagia of which Pappa Ulachi is Abbot and Pantagi whereof Pappa Canuti is Rector The Portal of the first
✚ ΙϹ ΧΡ ΝΙΚΗ As to their Faith concerning this Mystery I cannot take upon me to determine For it hath been a Question well handled already between two learned Men of the Roman and Reformed Churches of France viz. Monsieur Arnauld and Monsieur Claud by whom Authors have been examined with much Diligence on both sides Wherein Monsieur Claud seemeth to be victorious from their Writings and the Reports of Travellers of this last Age Though by a new Confession brought about by the Marquess de Nanteulle French Ambassador now at Constantinople who with great Zeal did prosecute that Design Monsieur Arnauld seemeth to triumph Of which the World will have an Account one day I hope from Dr. Covel who was Chaplain to the English Ambassadour Sir John Finch at the same time when that Business was acted and hath particularly informed himself about it Monsieur Arnauld perswades the World That they do believe the Real Presence and Transubstantiation Monsieur Claud affirmeth the contrary However I think it is an hard Question to determine of their present Faith and of very little consequence unless they could prove that they ever did believe Transubstantiation which will be impossible to be done as is apparent from what Monsieur Claud hath written concerning that Subject It will be very difficult to prove it their present Belief because they are so very unlearned that they hardly know the Principles of their Faith and I could not find that Transubstantiation hath been heard of except amongst those that have conversed with the Roman Church Of little consequence I say For What Argument can it be against the sure Foundations of the Reformed Churches to have prevailed upon the gross Ignorance of that poor depressed Nation by imposing those Opinions upon them as if they had been from the Beginning the Doctrines of their Church and wherein they ever agreed with that of Rome This Fruit indeed the Seminaries and Missioners from them in all places of these Parts may bring forth And it were to be wished that the Protestant Princes had been as diligent to have informed them in the Truth But it is the Fortune of the Children of Darkness to be cunninger in this World than the Children of Light I had not very frequent Opportunity to examine this Matter well but where I had I commonly did At Corfu and Zant they are most certainly of the Roman Opinion as to this although professed Enemies to the Roman Church and Pope in the points of Infallibility and Procession of the Holy Spirit At Tine they are most of the Roman Religion and the Greeks use their own Liturgies and Ceremonies but are governed by a Latine Bishop Micone hath a Greek Bishop and is subject to the Patriarch The Bishop of it then reigning came to Constantinople with us but for want of Language I had but little discourse with him But he had a Priest waiting on him that spoke Italian with whom I sometimes discoursed He talked as if he had never heard of such Doctrine much less believed that the Bread by Consecration was really changed into the Body of Christ and seemed plainly to understand a Mystical and Spiritual Sense in it At Athens I often conversed with the Arch-Bishop who was then one called Antenos He affirmed to me That he was present at Constantinople when the Patriarch signed that Writing to the Marquess of Nanteulle that he was one of that Assembly himself and that they believed according to that Writing wherein the Article of Transubstantiation is expressed by that word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 though I do not find that ever that word was known till then to the Greek Church I asked him Whether he did not understand it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Spiritually he answered no but 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Corporally that is to say Christ was corporally in the Sacrament Whilst I was at the Convent of St Luke's by Livadia in Boeotia there happened to come thither the Bishop of Salona with whom I had frequent discourse upon that Subject He seemed desirous when I told him That I was of England to know the Faith of our Church of which when I had given him the best Account I could he told me that it was the same with theirs For I informed him That we believed the Holy Scriptures the Apostles Creed the Nicene and that of St Athanasius That our Church was governed by Bishops and Arch-Bishops That our Faith was conformable to the Primitive Fathers and the first General Councils until the first five or six Centuries and in fine That we were not of the Roman Church After this I asked him their Opinion concerning the Holy Sacrament and what they held the Bread and Wine to be after Consecration he answered The Body and Blood of Christ When I asked him How that could be he gave me this Explication As the Sun is in Heaven and yet gives Light and Heat to the whole Earth so Christ although in Heaven yet was in the Sacrament by his Divine Power and Influence I told him That that was as we believed which was that Christ was in the Sacrament after a spiritual manner He said It was the same the Greek Church believed and was so obliging to me thereupon that he would needs have ordained me Priest the next day which as it is really the most honourable Employment a Christian can be capable of so amongst them it is most highly esteemed and I had much adoe to excuse my self by acknowledging my Unworthiness of so great an Honour This was the general Judgment of that whole Covent and of an Hermit that liveth about a Mile from thence in great austerity and held by them to be a Saint There was a Father who was Native of Zant but came away from thence so young that he was not imbued with their Principles there When I asked him Whether they believed that the Bread and Wine was changed into the Body and Blood of Christ he answered me Whether I thought them so much Beasts as to believe such an Absurdity The only thing they seemed most to dislike in us and our Religion was That I would not make any Reverence to the Pictures that are in their Churches which they always do when they come to their Devotions They never kneel in their Worship but bend their Bodies down to the Ground making the Sign of the Cross with their right hand first on their Head then on each side of their Breasts and then down to the Ground as they bow I believe that this Convent and the most inland Parts of Greece are yet free from that Opinion of the Roman Church and have not been tamper'd with by them I have made no other Remarks of the Turks Religion TURKS RELIGION and LEARNING but what have been already observed Mr. Watson a Scotchman who hath travelled those Parts for four or five Years together and hath perfected himself in the Turkish and Arabian Languages surprized my Companion and me with
happen there which in the Spring are some years once or twice a week and so shake all the houses that the Stone-walls of them are all full of great cracks One happened while I was there at my return from Athens during my Quarentine in the Pest-house That day it happened the Sun looked of a yellowish colour which was looked upon as ominous I was sitting leaning upon a Table when on the sudden the Earth was so prodigiously shaken that I thought the place which was but one story high would have immediately fallen on my head it gave such a crack and the Chairs Stools and Table so clashed together that they rattled again The unusualness of the thing made so deep an impression on my phansie that I hardly believed the Earth stood still so long as I staid on the Island after it But the Inhabitants are so used to them that they make little or nothing of them They profess the Greek Religion but are much Latinized in Doctrine although they extremely hate the Roman Church They are not allowed a Bishop but a Protopappa and submit themselves to the Bishop of Cephalonia There is here a Latin Bishop whom they are hardly constrained to use civilly A new one arrived while I was there and when he made his publick entry the Greek Priests were commanded to attend him to the Cathedral Church in the Fort. He was likewise attended by the several Orders of Fryers that have Convents there who sung his entry after the Latin way but were derided by the Greeks that followed them They have a great many little Churches both within and without the Town The best is that of Hagia-panda or All-Saints which is situated in the place leading to the Mole It s Pappa hath the repute of a learned man and a good Preacher He is of Candia hath a good Study of Manuscripts which he brought from thence and is called Pappa Agapito That of Saint Nicolo likewise is well furnished with the offerings of Seamen and is situated upon the Mole 2. The Church of Saint Helias lieth above the Town on the right hand of the way leading to the Cittadel It is a pretty pleasant place set round with Orange-trees and is beside remarkable for the fame of Cicero's Tomb which as some have written hath been found there with an Inscription upon it mentioning him and his Wife Tertia Antonia whereof now there remains nothing but the bottom of an Urn of Porphyry Nor could we learn what was become of the rest there being none at Zant so curious concerning the antiquity of their Country as at Corfu I. Towards the point that lieth opposite to Cephalonia is a little Greek Church called Santa Veneranda about which the English used formerly to bury their dead but since upon some dispute with the Pappa they have lately altered their place of burial it being made a mile or two off the Town at a little Church in the Plain behind the Castle At the first are several Monuments of our English Merchants who have left their Bodies there but few marks of their Religion are to be observed whether of the living or the dead in this and in several other of our Factories abroad to the great dishonour of the Reformed Religion there being none to administer comfort to their Souls by preaching the Word or administring the Sacraments to them when they are in health or in the greatest extremities of sickness and death For they have neither Church Chappel nor Priest So that they seem to the people of the place to live without Religion and to dye without hope as they really are buried without decency This is a very great scandal to those without and therefore a very great fault in those within our Church You shall no-where see a Factory of the Roman Religion but they will have one or more Priests when perhaps they are not well able to maintain themselves But ours on the contrary are rich wealthy and able to maintain many but will keep none I commend the piety of one of our Countrymen there who although he be not too great a friend to our Churches Discipline yet hath offered to pay his proportion to the maintenance of a Priest of our Church and to be his Auditor But although this be the real fault of this and such other of our Factories yet because it gives occasion of reflection upon our Church and the Excellent Religion we profess to its ignorant or malicious enemies abroad it would in my opinion be a matter highly becoming the pious Zeal of our Reverend Fathers to whom God hath committed the care of his Church to consider of some proper Expedients if any may be found to prevent such Scandals and supply the defects of this nature in Foreign Countries with whom we have any although but small Commerce 3. There was at that time indeed at Zant an Athenian called Demetrio Bernizelo who hath the reputation of the Learned'st Man amongst the Greeks He understands the ancient Greek and Latin well as also the Modern Greek and Italian hath studied Philosophy and Divinity and is permitted to preach though he be not in Orders He told us that Hieromonacho Damasceno of Athens was dead not long since whose Eloquence and Learning are much celebrated by Guilletier in his New and Old Athens to whose Romantick Pen the honest School-Master I believe was beholding since his only Talent was to teach to Write and Read which goes a great way in the Grecian Learning now-a-days This is now the chief Island from whence the Currans come whereof we make so many pleasant dishes here in England They borrowed their name from Corinth the famous City near the Isthmus of Morea and are therefore called in Latin Uvae Corinthiacae or Grapes of Corinth But none of them now grow there being perhaps neglected because they have no Vend for them the Turkish jealousie permitting no great Ships to enter into that Gulph They grow not upon Bushes like our red and white Currans as is vulgarly thought but upon Vines like other Grapes only their leaf is something bigger and the Grape much smaller than others They are also without stones and in those parts are only red or rather black But when I passed by Piacenza in Italy I saw White ones of this kind only differing in colour They grow in a most pleasant Plain behind the Castle encompassed about with Mountains and Hills which hemm in the Island This Plain is divided into Vineyards mixed with Olive Cypress-trees and Summer-houses of pleasure All which from the Castle and the Top of Monte di Scoppo make a most pleasant Prospect In August when they are ripe they are laid thin on the ground until they are dry then are they gathered together cleaned brought into the Town and put into Ware-houses they call Seraglio's into which they are powred through a hole above until the Room be filled up to the top By their own weight they cake so together that
low and therefore perhaps was only an entrance to a Vault beneath Going yet further you leave two square Foundations on each hand and have before you in the wall opposite to the Front a great Arched Niche a Hundred foot from the great entrance and another about the same bigness on each side of it opposite to the two walls at each side of the Portico with half a dozen small Niches between on both sides of the great one From the Northern Niche beginneth the Northern Wall full of little Arches as you may see in that I have endeavour'd to delineate The form of this Building would make me believe that it hath bin a Christian Church did not the Ancient Beauty of the Corinthian work in Marble on the Front forbid me For in the Ancient Churches of Greece are every where seen a Portico or Pronaos before the entrance into the body of the Church where the Catechumeni or those which were not yet fully instructed in the Faith or Penitents who were not admitted into the more holy mysteries of Religion were permitted to enter Besides the three great Niches at the East-side are not unlike to the end of a Greek Church where that on the Right-hand resembles the Prothesis the middle the place where the holy Table used to stand and the third that where the holy Garments used to be laid But it is also true that in Heathen Temples many times such Niches are found for Statues to be set in However I believe it not the Castle of Priam as the Country People now call it nor of any earlier times then the Romans Methinks that it something resembles the form of the Temple of Diana at Ephesus of which more hereafter From this hill is an easie descent every way To the West about two Miles is the Sea Eastward is a large plain stretched out between this hill and Mount Ida which the River Simois watereth and where in all probability stood the Ancient Ilum unseen by any of our Company we not going so far that way but proved by Mr. Sands at large Northward is a descent into a small plain which then riseth again to another hill making the Ancient Promontorium Sigaeum now Capo Janizzari entring the Hellespont about six or eight Miles distant from the hill above mentioned The day ending sooner than our curiosity we made hast to return to our Boat In the way we stayed to drink at a well about a Hundred paces from the shore not above a Bow shot North of the Ancient Port I before spoke of The water of it is very good But that they carried to the Vessel from the hidden Chanel about two Miles more Northward prov'd not so The twenty third of the same Month after some days boarding against the wind in sight of the Fort of Tenedos which I observed to have little strength either of Nature or Art having only one Tower furnished with about Fifteen pieces of Cannon we came and dropped Anchor near Capo Janizzari before a Village called yet by the Greeks Troas This Cape formerly had a Town called Sigaeum whence that Cape entring the mouth of the Hellespont was denominated Here on the shore are two very good Fountains from which our Vessel furnished themselves with water and from the Town with Provisions which are very cheap especially Beans for Sea-men Of Poultry we had Fifteen fat Pullets for a Doller which is less than a Groat apiece and Eggs at least a dozen for a Peny and Melons of many sorts are so plentiful that they sell them for any thing they can get The Inhabitants are all Greeks who live by their labour and the fruit of the ground Which consists in Corn Wine Saffron Figs Mellons Almonds and other Fruits The Village may contain two or three hundred Families The French piece of Money of five pence value called in Turky a Timin is very current Money every where and there is worth Fourteen Aspers But the Asper is but small and will not pass at Constantinople Saturday the twenty seventh of August we set Sail and the same evening dropped Anchor on the South-side of Imbros to gain wind This Island is a little bigger then Tenedos from which it lieth North. It hath four Villages of which the Principal is Imbros guarded by a Fort It lieth high and is Mountainous covered with woods which are for the most part a kind of wild Pear-tree and are well stored with game as Hares Rabbets and abundance of Wild Boars of which the Flemish Gentleman killed with his Dog and Gun in two hours time a Boar and Sow IMBROS with four of their Pigs But the pleasure cost him dear for he was left behind on the Island the chief Commander hoisting Sail sooner than was expected yet the Captain being so kind to leave his Skiff and four Sea-men to wait for him they found us at Anchor within the Castles after two days time and much danger by weather and the Current still running very strong out of the mouth of the Hellespont Monsieur Spon and I were almost in as bad a fear For from the top of the Mountain which we ascended to view the Island we soon saw our Ships under Sail and notwithstanding all the speed we could make down had almost lost the opportunity of returning to them Nevertheless we observed that these Mountains had many pleasant Vallies between them well tilled and divided into Corn-fields And many pleasant springs of excellent water which falling by many easie descents from the Rocks make as they pass several pleasant little ponds to Bath in under the shade of Fig-trees Wild-Vines Agnus Castus and Oleander-trees The twenty ninth Sunday evening we came with a side-wind to the mouth of the Helles-pont and in the Morning entred it saluting the New Castles HELLESPONT placed on each side of the mouth whose strength consists only in their great Guns so mounted that they can do execution between wind and water We gave them seven Guns and they answered with one loaded as the Turks still do We returned thanks with five for at Sea they still use an odd number in saluting by which they signifie that they are Friends I believe these new Castles were not Built in Mr. Sands's time because he maketh no mention of them That on Asia side is seen from Troas whence it lieth not above two Miles just within the Promontory Sigaeum or Capo Janizzari upon a flat ground The other just within the opposite Promontory of the Thracian Chersonessus on the side of a hill with round Towers after the old fashion and several ascents The mouth lieth West a little inclining to the North and hath a reach that continueth so about seven or eight Miles within and then some two or three Miles before ye come at the Dardanelli or old Castles called so now in opposition to the new it turneth Northward towards the Propontis As we entred in we passed very near a bank on the North shore and
of this Place I had but a slender Account only I have the Copy of one Inscription being the Monument of a Virgin in these three Couplets of Verses ΞΑΝΤΙΠΠΗΝ ΑΚΥΛΑ ΜΝΗΜΗΝ ΒΙΟΥ ΠΑΡΕΔΩΚΗΝ ΒΩΜΩ ΤΕΙΜΗΣΑΣ ΣΕΜΝΩ ΤΑΥΤΗΝ ΑΛΟΧΟΝ ΠΑΡΘΕΝΟΝ ΗΣ ΑΠΕΛΥΣΕ ΜΙΤΡΗΝ ΗΣΔΡΙΟΝ ΑΝΘΟΣ ΕΣΚΕΝ ΕΝ ΗΜΙΤΕΛΕΙ ΠΑΥΣΑΜΕΝΟΝ ΘΑΛΑΜΩΙ ΤΡΕΙΣ ΓΑΡ ΕΠ ΕΙΚΟΣΙΟΥΣ ΤΕΛΕΩΣΕ ΒΙΟΝ ΕΝΕΑΥΤΟΥΣ ΚΑΙ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΟΥΣ ΔΕ ΘΑΝΕΝ ΤΟΥΤΟΥ ΛΙΠΟΥΣΑΦΑΟΣ We bought also a Medal at Smyrna of the Emperour Marcus Aurelius the Reverse of which hath a Temple Med. 68. whose Front is sustained by six Pillars and about it are these Letters ΦΙΛΑΔΕΛΦΕΩΝ ΕΠΙ ΕΥΓΕΝΕΙΟΥ signifying that it was coined at Philadelphia when Eugenius was Governour perhaps that that Temple was then built there also These are not the only Churches and Cities that have partaken of the Event of these Prophecies of St John nor was it only to these Seven Churches that the Prophecies were addressed however they only are particularly marked out by their Names but unto all Christians and Christian Churches in general as is evident by that often repeated Caveat our Saviour useth He that hath an Ear let him hear what the Spirit saith to the Churches Apoc. 2.9 11 17 c. As for the Thirteen Cities of Ionia mentioned by Strabo and where the Christian Religion once happily flourished only Smyrna Samos and Chios remain at this day either in Name or tolerable Being But most of them are easily known where they were by their Ruins and the Description that Strabo giveth of them in his Fourteenth Book The Account which I had of them I am willing to communicate with the Antiquities I possess and have seen of them beginning retrograde to Strabo his order Viz. First 1. PHOCAEA now PALEA-FOIA Phocaea This stood near the Mouth of the River Hermus by the Bounds of Aeolis and Ionia of which last it was an antient and famous City and on the Banks of the Bay of Smyrna where now are the Ruins of it called Palea-Foia by which is now a poor Village called also Foia Nova or New Foia almost opposite to the Promontory Argennum Of Phocaea I saw several Medals one bearing a Tower'd Head and about it these Letters ΦΩΚΕΑ Phocaea and on its Reverse a Boat over which are Two Crescents and Two Stars and about it these Letters ΦΩΚΑΙΕΩΝ Of the Phoceans Another Medalion of the Emperour Philip on whose Reverse is a Dog preying upon a Fish called Phocas or the Sea-Calf whence probably this City took its Name and under it ΦΩΚΑΙΕΩΝ Of the Phoceans Between it and Smyrna was a Town in old time called Leuca where Publius Crassus the Consul was slain by the Rebel Aristonicus who there lay in ambush with his Army But now it is unknown where that Town was SMYRNA Thence winding to the bottom of the Bay about twenty Miles distant is Smyrna Thence turning yet further about South-West-wards again not far from the Fortress upon the Point of the Streight made by the Sands in this Bay as before is mentioned a Mile or two from the Shore are the Thermae or Hot Springs which we went to see with the Consul where the Water is only covered with a pitiful Roof for the Accommodation of such as come to bathe I am perswaded the Sinus Smyrnaeus of the Antients began where that Streight between the Sands and Fort now is For Strabo saith After the Temple of Apollo and the Hot-Springs is the Sinus Smyrnaeus and Smyrna And perhaps that which is now but a Sand might in times past be Firm Land Clazomenae are the next CLAZOMENAE situate under a Precipice which was undoubtedly some part of that high cragged Mountain now called The Brothers and formerly Mimas There is now only a poor Village called Vourla Erythraea was at Argennum Promontorium ERYTHRAEA called now by the Turks Calabouroum but by the English Cape-Giobbernole There is also a Village called Kelisman and not far off another called Gesne one of which is probably where the Erythraea were and the others perhaps the antient Village Cybelia This was a Noble City famous for the Birth of Cibylla a Prophetess as some think Of this Place I saw two Medals both having a Head wearing a Tower'd Crown written about with these Letters ΕΡΥΘΡΑΙ ERYTHRAEA Med. 73 74 75. The Reverse of one is the Prow of a Ship to betoken their greatness at Sea The other an Instrument I take for Apollo's Harp Tens is now a poor Village called Sigheso South of Cape Caloubarum TEUS by the Sea-side in the same Peninsula called in old time Myonnesus Lebedo was about fifteen Miles South of this but destroyed LEBEDUS Med. 76. My Comrade hath a Medal of the Emperour Carracalla whose Reverse is a Palace armed with these Letters ΛΕΒΕΔΙΩΝ shewing that it was stamped here Colophon hath passed the same Fate with the former COLOPHON Med. 77. and was about fifteen Miles South of Lebedus in a Bay which I saw at a distance going to Ephesus near high Mountains on each hand the North-most of which I believe to have been called Coracius Near them the River Halys emptied it self into the Sea wherefore they represented it sometimes in their Money as on the Reverse of a Diadumenianus with these Letters ΚΟΛΦΩΝΙΩΝ Hence I shall take for my Guide an Account given me of a Journey made by Dr Pickering Mr Salter and several other Merchants there begun June 23. 1673. The first day after nine Hours riding they came to a Village called Chillema South of Smyrna not far from the Foot of the Mountain Aleman and lodged that Night in their Tent by a Fountain but were much infested by Frogs and Flies The next day through a bushy rocky and mountainous way they came to the top of the Aleman which I esteem the Mountain Gallecius Whence they had the Prospect of the Ephesian Plains and after twelve Hours riding the second day they came to Scala Nova I suppose after the Ephesian Plains because they spent so much time going to it It is a Garrison Town situate in the bottom of a Bay most of the Inhabitants out of Town Greeks the rest Turks There was formerly a Factory of French setled there but were removed to Smyrna by order of the Sultaness Mother so that now there is but small Trade I guess this to be the Neapolis Strabo placeth hereabouts Wednesday the third day of their Journey they set out about four in the Morning and about twelve came to a Greek Village called Changlee situate by the Sea-side but almost ruined CHANGLEE olim PANIONIUM having no Defence against Pirats who in the time of the Venetian War so infested this Place that now there remains only some few Houses of very poor People who are ready to run away at the sight of every little Bark they see at Sea They spent the Afternoon there by reason of a very high Mountain they were to pass the next day at the