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A58175 Observations topographical, moral, & physiological made in a journey through part of the low-countries, Germany, Italy, and France with a catalogue of plants not native of England, found spontaneously growing in those parts, and their virtues / by John Ray ... ; whereunto is added a brief account of Francis Willughby, Esq., his voyage through a great part of Spain. Ray, John, 1627-1705.; Willughby, Francis, 1635-1672. Catalogus stirpium in exteris regionibus. 1673 (1673) Wing R399; ESTC R5715 378,219 735

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Communities he is obliged during his Office to reside in the City The lake of Zugh hath great variety of fish more then any other lake of Switzerland if the people there may be believed They named to us Eels Carps Perches Trouts Salmons which is very strange there being no way for them to get thither but up the Rhene and so they must have a course of above 500 miles and besides there being at Wasserfal a huge Catarract of the whole river which one would think it were impossible to pass Esch called by the Italians Temelo and in English Grayling Trisea or Trasine in English Eelpout Pikes of which we saw one taken that weighed 30 pound Weiss-fish or Alberlin called at Geneva Farra This fish is taken in the lake of Bala in Merionethshire in Wales and there called Guiniad from the whiteness of it and in Huls-water near Pereth in Cumberland and there called Schelley Hassler which I take to be the Charre of Winandermere in Westmerland and the Torgoch of Northwales Balla Nase called by Naturalists Nasus Breams Crevises and a great many sorts more to the number of at least 50. In many of the shadowy lanes we passed through about Stantz Zug and elsewhere we observed growing plentifully Aublatum Cordi or Dentaria aphyllos We travelled from Zug to Zurich which is 5 good hours riding But of that City we have already written From Zurich we rode to Mellingen a free Town not far from Baden 4 good leagues and then through a little walled Town belonging to the Bernese called Lensburgh and lodged at Arauw a considerable Town upon the river Aar subject also to the Bernese 4 short leagues We travelled a streight rode passing no considerable Town till we arrived at Soloturn 9 leagues distant from Arauw This though it be the head of a Canton is no large Town nor very considerable for its strength We diverted out of the common rode to Geneva to see Bern 6 hours distant from Soloturn This is a handsome City built all of stone though the houses be not tall It hath one fair long street with narrow portico's or Cloysters on each side It lies stretched out in length upon a hill which I may call a Peninsula it is so almost begirt about with the river On that side where it is not compassed with the river it is strongly fortified with good bastions and outworks The Founder of this City as also of Friburg in Switzerland and Friburg in Brisgoia was Berchtoldus Duke of Zerin as appears by the inscription upon their moneys To him they have erected a monument in the great Church This Church is one of the handsomest stone-fabrics in all Switzerland The territory of this City is more then on third part of the Countrey of the Suisses and is divided into 60 Praefecturae or Bailyages besides 4 which are common to them with Friburg For this reason there must needs be many rich men in the City though they have but little trade The Landtvogts or Bayliffs continue in office 6 years during which time they enrich themselves well yet do not their subjects complain but acknowledge themselves well used by their Governours Heer they keep 5 or 6 Bears in a pit These Bears I observed to climb the firr-trees growing in the pit and delighting to sit on the tops of them like birds on a perch The Arms of the Town is also a Bear which they took I suppose alluding to their name Bern And they first coyned the mony called Batzes from the figure of a bear stamped upon it which afterward all the Cantons imitated calling it also by the same name From Bern we rode to Friburg a handsome Town and the head of a Canton built upon a hill almost begirt with a river after the manner of Bern and by the same Founder on all sides environed with hills save where it is continuous to the land Their territory is surrounded with and enclosed in the territory of Bern. From Friburg we travelled through Maulton to Lausanna a great Town and an University and from Lausanna April 19. through Morges a large Town Rolle and Nion considerable Towns by the lake of Geneva's side and Verfoy a little Town on the lake near Geneva belonging to the French and came to our lodging at Geneva where we rested and sojourned near 3 months The Governments of Soloturn Bern and Friburg are much like that of Lucern In Soloturn the number of the lesser Council is 35 and of the greater 115. When one of the 35 dies the 34 remaining chuse one into his place out of the 115. When one of the 115 dies or is advanced the rest chuse one into his place out of the number of the Citizens In Bern the greater Council consists of 200 and the lesser as we were told there of 42 though Simler makes them but 26. These Councils are chosen by 20 Electors and the Sculthess viz. the four Signiferi of the City and 16 whom they pick out of the whole body of the Citizens and joyn with themselves In Friburg the lesser Council is of 24 and the greater of 200. When one of the lesser Council dies they chuse one into his place out of the greater and when one of the greater dies or is removed the lesser as I understood them chuse one into his place out of the number of the Citizens All these Cities have 2 Sculteti or Consuls who rule alternis annis He that desires a more full and particular account of the government of these Cities may consult Simler de Repub Helvetiorum Each of the Cantons have some Saint or other to be their Patron and protector whose image the popish Cantons set on the reverse of their monies v. g. S. Oswald a King of England Protector of Zug In their Church they have his reliques and have set up his image on horseback The Protestant Cantons are Zurich Bern Basel Sehafhausse part of Glaris and part of Appenzel That which most frequently breeds differences a quarrels among the Suitzers is the business of the common vogties or Bailywicks For most of these I mean the Dutch ones being of the reformed religion are oppressed and injured by the Popish Lantvogts the Protestant Cantons not knowing how either to help and relieve them or retaliate For the Popish Cantons being more in number than the Protestants they send Lantvogts to these places twice to the Protestants once This one of the Ministers of Zurich told me wad fundi sui calamitas and occasioned the two late breaches among them The Switzers on each side are very stiff in their Religion the Papists not permitting or tolerating one Protestant nor the Protestants one Papist in their proper territories Though the Cantons adhering to the Church of Rome are more in number yet the reformed are much the greater besides that their land is better very like to ours in England The Romanists are accounted the better Souldiers and
the Knights of the Golden Fleece and over the upper Stalls or Seats this written in French Le treshaut tres puissant Philip dit le bon c. which because it contains the History of the Authors first Institution and Model of this Order I thought fit to translate into English and here set down The most High and Mighty prince Philip called the Good by the Grace of God Duke of Burgundy Lorain and Brabant in the year 1429. in the City of Bruges did in imitation of Gedeon create and institute to the Honour of God and the virgin Mary and for the sake of S. Andrew Protector and Patron of Burgundy a Company or Society of Honourable Knights into which might be received Emperors Kings Dukes Marquesses and other Personages as well of his own Subjects as of forein Countries provided they were of Noble bloud and good fame and called these great Persons Knights of the Golden Fleece to whom he gave for perpetual Chief him that should be lawful Duke of Burgundy and have the Seigneury or Lordship of the Low-Countries limiting their number to 24 comprehending also the Chief And for occurrences and use of the Order he created four Honourable Officers viz. A Chancellor a Treasurer a Secretary and a King of Arms. And for the Establishment and well regulating of this Order he made notable Statutes and Ordinances The Houses of this Town are of a different make from those of Holland the outside being covered with Boards like those of Edenburgh in Scotland We observed great store of wild Fowl to frequent the Waters hereabout and found growing wild Herniaria hirsuta on the sandy and gravelly Banks June 20. We took a Wagon drawn by three Horses abreast as is usual in these Countries which in six hours time brought us to Eindhoven a small wall'd Town and thence in four hours more to Haumont a pitiful walled Town belonging to the Bishop of Liege June 21. Three hours Riding brought us to another little wall'd Town called Bry the Houses whereof were old and decaying Between Haumont and this place we rode over Heaths of great extent called the Champagne We then left the level Countrey and ascended some Hills from whence we had a pleasant Prospect of the Mose and Maestricht where we arrived this Evening though it be accounted seven hours distant from Bry. This City is fortified with good Outworks besides a strong Wall and Trench garrisoned with 31 Companies of Foot and six Troops of Horse it being a great Town and a Frontier Half of the Magistrates are Protestants and half of the Romish Religion The greater part of the Citizens Romanists There are in Town near 20 Cloisters or Monasteries of both Sexes and they have the free and publick Exercise of their Religious Worship For the Protestants there are three Dutch Churches and one English and French which those Nations use alternately The old Buildings of his City are like those of the Bosch but since the States have been Masters of it it is become a rich and thriving place and they are building fair new brickt Houses space They were also setting up a large Stone Stadthouse of a square Figure resembling that at Amesterdam The River Meuse divides the City into two parts which are joined together by a broad stone-Bridge of nine Arches The lesser part over the Water is called Wick The Garrison-Soldiers are all Protestants The Common People of Holland especially Inn-keepers Wagoners Foremen they call them Boat-men and Porters are surly and uncivil The Wagoners bait themselves and their Horses four or five times in a days Journey Generally the Dutch men and women are almost always eating as they travel whether it be by Boat Coach or Wagon The men are for the most part big-boned are gross-bodied The first Dish at Ordinaries and Entertainments is usually a Salade Sla they call it of which they eat abundance in Holland Their Meat they commonly stew and make Hotchpots of it Puddings neither here nor in any place we have travelled beyond Sea do they eat any either not knowing the goodness of the Dish or not having the Skill to make them Puddings and Brawm are Dishes proper to England Boil'd Spinage minc'd and buttered sometimes also with Currans added is a great Dish all over these Countreys The Common People feed much upon Cabiliau that is Cod-fish and pickled Herrings which they know how to cure or prepare better than we do in England You shall seldome fail of hung Beef in any Inn you come into which they cut into thin slices and eat with Bread and Butter laying the slices upon the Butter They have four or five sorts of Cheese three they usually bring forth and set before you 1. Those great round Cheeses coloured red on the outside commonly in England called Holland-Cheeses 2. Cummin-seed Cheese 3. Green Cheese said to be so coloured with the juice of Sheeps Dung This they scrape upon Bread buttered and so eat 4. Sometimes Angelot's 5. Cheese like to our common Countrey Cheese Milk is the cheapest of all Belly-Provisions Their strong Beer thick Beer they call it and well they may is sold for three Stivers the Quart which is more than three pence English All manner of Victuals both Meat and Drink are very dear not for the Scarcity of such Commodities but partly by reason of the great Excise and Impost wherewith they are charged partly by reason of the abundance of Money that is stirring here By the way we may note that the dearness of this sort of Provisions is an argument of the Riches of a Town or Countrey these things being always cheapest in the poorest places Land is also here sold at 30 or 40 years Purchase and yet both Houses and Land set at very high annual Rents So that were not the poor Workmen and Labourers well paid for their pains they could not possibly live Their Beds are for the most part like Cabbins inconveniently short and narrow and yet such as they are you pay in some places ten Stivers a night the man for them and in most six There is no way for a Stranger to deal with Inn-keepers Wagoners Porters and Boat-men but by bargaining with them before-hand Their Houses in Holland are kept clean with extraordinary ordinary niceness and the Entrance before the Door curiously paved with Stone All things both within and without Floor Posts Walls Glass Houshold-stuff marvellously clean bright and handsomly kept nay some are so extraordinarily curious as to take down the very Tiles of their Pent-houses and cleanse them Yet about the preparing and dressing of their Victuals our English Houswives are I think more cleanly and curious than they So that no wonder Englishmen were formerly noted for excessive eating they having greater temptation to eat both from the goodness of their Meat and the curiosity of the dressing it than other nations In the principal Churches of Holland are Organs which usually play for some
the greatest part of the Citizens are Lutherans who have five Churches The Roman Catbolics are allowed the free Exercise of their Religion and have within the City two Cloisters of Men and one of Women The Reformed had formerly a Church within the Walls afterwards that being taken from them they had one just without which being burnt down whether by Accident or Malice their Church is now a good distance from the Town The English Church used in Q. Maries days goes to decay The English House is made a Granary or Store-house The Countrey hereabout is pleasant and the Ground rich We found growing wild Gramen amoris dictum Ischaemon vulgare Portulaca sylvestris and in some Hedges Alsine baccifera which it was not my fortune in all this Voyage to meet with any where else July 17. we left Frankfurt taking the Post-Coach for Frankenthal After one half-hours riding we entred into Pine-Woods the first we met withal They reach'd almost to our Lodging this night which was at a Village called Geirsheim three German miles from Frankfurt July 18. at a little walled Town called Kernsheim we ferried over the Rhene and at six miles end came to Worms a great old City but meanly built and in a decaying condition It seems formerly to have been richer and more populous The Bishop is chosen by the Canons of the great Church being 20 in number All the Magistrates are Lutherans After we had passed Worms one hours riding brought us to Frankenthal or as we usually pronounce it Frankendale a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine situate in a Level by the Rhene more considerable for its Strength than Greatness The Houses are low built the Streets broad and streight The Wall Mounts and Out-works neatly kept in good repair The Garrison consists of five Companies whereof two are Citizens There are in it three Churches one Almagne one Low-Dutch and one French July 20. we travelled from Frankendale beside the Rhene through Oberskeim a small walled Town to Spier two miles and an half distant Spier though it hath a Bishop yet is it a free City of the Empire and governed by its own Magistrates of considerable Strength and Greatness The Houses are most old-built of Timber rather vast than handsom or convenient We could not learn that there was any considerable Trade driven here so that were it not for the Imperial Chamber which draws much Company hither we believe it would soon grow poor and infrequent enough The Romish Religion prevails most yet have the Lutherans their Church In the Cathedral Church are the Monuments of several Emperors and Bishops who lie interred there The Imperial Chamber consists of 36 Assessors and a chief President appointed by the Emperor besides whom there are other three Presidents chosen by the Emperor out of the Delegates Every Elector of the Empire and each of the ten Circles send two Delegates or Assessors There is another Chamber of like power at Vienna These Courts determine all Controversies arising between the several Princes and States of the Empire by majority of Vote The Subjects also of many of the Princes may appeal from their own Princes to this Court but it is not prudent nor safe for them so to do unless they first withdraw themselves out of their Territory Some Princes as the Count Palatine have Jus non appellandi July 21. we returned a little backwards and crossed over the Rh●ne to Manheim a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine situate just in the Angle made by the Neccar and Rhene meeting and strongly fortified The Houses in the late Wars were most of them beaten down but now they are rebuilding them apace the Prince having given the Town great Privileges to invite Strangers to come and inhabit there At the time of our being there his Highness was building a new Citadel which was like to prove a strong Piece It wanted not much then of being finished Who it was that first advanced this place to the dignity of a City and fortified it with Walls Ditches and Bulwarks this Inscription over the Gate towards the Neccar will acquaint the Reader Quod felix faxit Jehova Fredericus IIII. Elector Palatinus Rheni Dux Bavariae E veteri Paga Manhemio Ad Rheni Ni●rique confluvium Justa spatiorum dimensione Nobilem Vrbem molitus Vallo fossa muro clausit Portam bonis civibus aperuit Anno Domini MDCX. July 22. From Manheim we rode to Heidelberg just before we entred the Town passing a wooden Bridge over the Neccar covered over with a tectum as are also many of the great Bridges in Switzerland to preserve the Timber as I conceive from the injuri●s of the Weather Heidelberg though none of the greatest Cities yet is the chief of the Palatinate and for its bigness populous which is much considering the Devastations made by the late Wars in this Countrey The Houses are most of Timber yet handsom and in good repair which argues the Inhabitants to be industrious and in a thriving condition It is situate on the right bank of the River Neccar under Hills of considerable highth by reason of which it cannot be made strong though it be encompassed with a double Wall and Trench In this City are five Jurisdictions 1. Aulica under which are all the Princes or Noblemen of this Jurisdiction the Marshal of the House is President 2. Cancellaria under which are all the Councils and other Officers as Advocates Doctors of Law c. 3. Bellica or the Soldiery the General is their President 4. Academica in which the Rector magnificus presides and 5. Civica The Members of each Jurisdiction may refuse to be judged by any but their own Judge before whom the Plaintiff must implead them according to the Maxim in Law Actor sequitur forum rei The City is divided into four Quarters and governed by Praetor and Burgomasters It can raise two Companies of Foot and one of Horse The Lutherans are permitted the Exercise of their Religion here and have lately built them a Church There are also Roman Catholics who have a Church without the Walls About the middle of the ascent of the Hill called Koningsthall stands the Castle where the Prince keeps his Court a stately Pile and of great capacity encompassed with a strong Wall and a deep Trench hewn out of the Rock which upon occasion may be filled with Water Over the Gate leading into the Palace is a Dutch Inscription signifying the building of it by Ludovicus V. in the year 1519. It is not all of one Piece but since the first Foundation several Buildings have been added by several Princes One part is called the English Building Under one of the Towers stood the great Tun which almost filled a Room It held 132 Fudders a Fudder as we were informed being equal to 4 English Hogsheads The old Tun is taken in pieces and there is a new one in building by the Princes Order which is
Every two years they have two Diets or general Councils The first Diet when the Officers which they send to their several Praefecturae are elected is at Michaelmas the second when they take an account of their Officers is on St. John Baptists day To these Diets each Commune sends its Delegates Messi they call them or Commissioners some one and some two These Delegates must act according to the instructions given them by their several Communities Each League hate its Head or Chief The Burgomaster of Coira is always Head of the League della casa di Dio. In the Lega Grisa there are four Communities that by ancient custom have the Head who is here called Landtreichter by turns In the Dieci Dritture six Communities have the choice of the Chief who is called Landamman Those six Communes send each its Delegate to Tavas and the Delegates by the major vote chuse the new Landamman These sometimes with some assistants meet as a lesser Council but have no absolute or decisive sentence There lies an Appeal from the general Diet to the Communities and what the major part of those concludes or agrees upon is valid The Grisons pay no sort of Datii Gabels or Taxes In Italy the County of Chiavenna and the Valtelline are subject to the Grisons To the County of Chiavena they sent formerly two Podesta's or Bailifls one to Plurs which Town was miserably destroyed by the falling of a Mountain upon it and one to Chiavena who is called Commissario Near Plurs are made Pots and Vesof stone turned after the manner of wood which will endure the fire The Valtelline according to Simler is divided into six Praefecturae whether the Grisons send Podesta's or Governors Those are Bormio which some make a County by it self Tirano Tellio Sondrio Morbegno and Travona They named to us two more viz. Ponte and Chiur These Podesta's are changed every two years the principal or head of them is the Prefect of Sondrio who is not called Podesta but Governatore as we were told as Simler saith Capitaneo In the chusing of Praefects the order both of the Leagues and of the Communities is observed So that for example if the Lega Grisa chuses the Governor of Sondrio for this two years the Lega della casa di Dio shall have the choice of him the next two and the Dieci Dritture the following The like order is observed in the several Communities of each League The People of Valtelline the Country of Bormio and the County of Chiavenna pay no Taxes or Gabels more than for the maintenance of their Governors or Podesta's We left Ponte and passed over another high Mountain called in a very bad season for that it snowed exceeding fast all the while we were abroad which in many places so filled up the track that we could see no way at all only we could presently find when were out for then our horses were almost up to the belly in snow besides a brisk gale of most bitter cutting wind blew just in our faces which did so affect my eyes that I could not open tem without great pain for three days nor easily endure to look upon snow for a great while after The reason why my eyes were more affected than others I conceive was because I was not careful to wipe the snow off my face but suffered it to freez to the hair of my eyebrows and eye-lids the cold whereof being contiguous to them stupified and would in time have quite mortified my eyes And here by the way we may take notice that the People living in this mountainous cold Country look more swarthy and dusky at least their their faces and parts exposed to the air and have not so good complexions as those that live below in a milder and more temperatre Region It is an observation of Bodin in his Method of History That the Inhabitants of the temperate Zone as you go further and further from the Tropic are still whiter and whiter till you come to a certain degree of latitude and then they grow dusky and dark-coloured again 3 witness the Greenlanders Laplanders c. extremity of cold parching and tanning the skin as well as excess of heat And we found this true by our own experience for our faces were so hackt and burnt if I may take so to use that word by the cold in our passage over these Mountains that for some time after we lookt like so many Gypsics This night we lodged in a terra called Bergun We went on to Coira the capital City of the Grisons a pretty little Town standing on a small River that falls into the Rhene about half a mile below environed almost with Mountains save only on that side the River Rhene runs where there is a pleasant Valley having very good Meadow and Pasture grounds The Inhabitants of Coira are all Protestants excepting the Bishop who coyns money that is current here and 24 Canons The Bishop hath nothing at all to do in the Government of the Town The form of Government is much like that of Zurich and Basel viz. the Citizens are divided into sive Tribes or Companies each of which chuses 14 Senators which make up the great Council of 70. These are called Ratsheren and are chosen by the people anew every year on S. Martins day anew I say for the same are usually chosen again so long as they live Out of this greater Council are chosen yearly of each Tribe sive into the lesser Council to which are added the 5 Masters of the Companies for the last year who make up the number of 30. Half these are called Senators and govern the Common-wealth The chief Officers who preside in the Senate are the two Burgomasters who rule alternately one one year the other the next The Council of 30 with the regent Burgomaster who is called Stativo●ht judge in criminal causes Besides there is a Bench of Judges made up of the five Masters of the Companies and ten out of the Council of 30 wherein the Praetor of the City called Stattrichter presides which determines civil controversies and actions of debt But from them there lies an Appeal to the Council of 30. In the mountanous Pastures about this Town we observed growing plentifully Crocus vernus flore albo flo Caeruleo flo ex albo caerulco variegato Hepatica nobilis ubique Leucoium bulbosum Tab. Ornithogalum flore luteo Besides Coira the Grisons have two little Towns which they call Cities Mayfield and Eylandts For their Religion the Grisons are divided some Communities being Romanists some Protestants but most Protestants of whom they told us there were in all the Country about 17000 fighting men We travelled from Coira to Walenstat situate beside a small Lake thence called Walenstatter-Sea passing by the way through Mayfield Ragats and Sargans Both Sargans and Walenstat are Voghtia's or Praefecturae belonging the seven Cantons We ferried over the Lake to Wesen