Santo stands the Statue of the Veronica vnder the peece of the Holy Crosse the statue of S. Helen Vnder the top of the lance the Statue of Longinus vnder the Head of S. Andrew The statue of S. Andrew These statues are of Colossean greatness and made by masters as great as themselues In the midst of the Crosse of this Church and perpendiculary vnder the very Cupola stands the High Altar of this Church This Altar may well be called the High Altar Altare quasi alta Ara or the Altare mains being the noblest Altar in the world both for matter and forme The Altar it self stands ouer the Tombe S. Peter half of whose body together with half of S. Pauls lyes buryed here and the other half of their bodyes in S. Pauls Church Ouer this Altar four stately pillars of brasse beare vp a Canopie of the same mettal wrought about the edge like a Canopie indeed with Valances and a guilt fringe yet all of brasse Ouer the corners of this Canopie stand four great Angels of brasse guilt and in the midst of it is mounted high a round ball of brasse guilt and a faire Crosse vpon it of the same mettal These four pillars are as great in compase I speak by experience hauing taken the measure of them vpon their model as three ordinary men are thick Their forme is is serpentine wreathed about with vinetrees and leaues but all of brasse as also adorned with little Angels of brasse clambering vp those leaues and branches and with Bees here and there also relating to Pope Vrbans armes who made them These pillars are fifty foot high from the ground Euery on of them weigheth fiue and twenty thousand pound weight and all of them together make this Altar The Altar antonomastically as this Church is The Church of the world So that if the Climax be true as â—rue it is that Churches are for Altars Altars for Priests Priests for God I know no Religion which payeth such honorable Tributs of worship to God as the Roman Catholik religion doth which hath the noblest Church the noblest Altar the noblest Priest the noblest Sacrifice and all this to the noblest God Deus Deorum Dominus Hence the Pope may say with Salomon Domus quam aedificare cupio magna est magnus est enim Dominus noster super omnes Deos. Behind this Altar not in respect of him that comes into the Church by the great dore but in respect of him that stands at the Altar stands the Confession of S. Peter so called because that in the primitiue times the place where the bodyes of Saints and Martyrs where kept was called Confessio and in the Greek Church Martyrium For in ancient writers the word Confessor was taken often for a martyr who had confessed Christ so farre as euen to dye for him so that martyrs were sometimes called Confessors and Confessors Martyrs though they did not actually dye in tormens as you may see plainly in the Anotations of learned Pamelius vpon Tertullians booke ad Martyres Now this place because it conserues the body at least half of the body of S. Peter is called the Confession of Peter As for this Confession it s made like a hollow caue open aboue and rayled about with low rayles so that the people kneeling may looke downe to the iron dore and grate behinde which the Tombe of S. Peter stands vnder the Altar for these rayles fetch in a demi-circle from one corner of the Altar to the other There are also a double pair of open stairs of some twelue steps a peece for those to descend by who officiate and there are two little half dores which let them in to those stairs And I conceiue at the bottom of these little dores the Limina Apostolorum to bee For though I know its generally held that to visit the Limina Apostolorum which Bishops by the Canon law are obliged vnto is to visit S. Peters Church and that diuers learned Authors think the Limina Apostolorum to be the very steps of the entrance of the great dore of the Church yet I am of opinion that these little half dores and the steps about the Altar are most properly the Limina Apostolorum because I found these very words written in golden letters in the bottom of the like little dores which stand about the High Altar in S. Pauls Church where the other half of the bodyes of S. Peter and S. Paul are intombed Round about this Church stand side Chappels some six and twenty in all called ancienly Cubicula and those whom we call Chaplains were anciently called Cubicularii hence the title of Cubicularius S. Petri. Now these Chappels haue for the most part some remarkable thing in them In one of them is alwayes reserued the B. Sacrament for the dayly vse of Pilgrims that desire to communicate in S. Peters Church and other deuout people In that of S. Gregory Nazianzen is the body of that Saint translated hither out of the Church of the Nunns of Campo Marzo In the Chappel of the Canons reposeth the body of S. Chrysostome In the Chappel called the Clementina reposeth the body of S. Gregory the great who being Pope of Rome and moued by Godly instinction as Iohn Stow sayth sent Augustin Iustus Melitus and other Monks liuing in the feare of God to conuert the Angles or English to the faith of Christ and therfore I tooke particular notice often of his tombe as being as Venerable Bede calls him our Apostle In a Chappel at the very further end of the Church is set vp the Chair of S. Peter held vp by four Doctors of the Church all cast in brasse in a stately posture This Chair is of wood but much spent with old age and therfore Pope Alexander the VII caused it to be set vp here and enchased curiously to preserue it I once saw it neere at hand being exposed to publick view in the middle of the Church vpon the Feast day of S. Peters Chair in Rome In an other Chappel is the Crucifix made three hundred yeares ago by rare Pietro Caualino In an other Chappel you see cut in white marble the history of S. Leo's meeting Attila out of Rome and his deturning him from comeing any nearer to the City As for the Relicks and bodies of Saints which are in this Church besides those mentioned already there are the bodyes of SS Simon and Iude of S. Petronilla of SS Processus and Martinianus of ten first Popes after S. Peter with a world of other precious Relicks Kept in the Sacristy As for the Tombes which are in this Church aboue ground they are these That of Sixtus IV. of Paulus III of Vrban the VIII of Leo the XI of Innocent the VIII of Gregory the XIII of Innocent the X and lastly that of the Countesse Matilde the onely secular person that I finde to haue a
black boats like ouâ— oares holding six persons conueniently vpon the Seats which are couered ouer head with a thick black cloath with windows at either side which in winter defends you from the winde and in sommer from the Sun The multitude of these Gondolas help to employ a great many poore men and to make a world of mariners for publick seruice in time of need Ordinary people here may go vp and downe the towne by little back allyes which they call here Calle these by winding vp and downe and deliuering them ouer seueral bridges hugely puzzle strangers at first Of these bridges there are aboue 1500 in Venice all of stone and of one arch reaching from one side of a street to the other while the Gondolas run vnder the Arch. The greatest of these bridges is called the Rialto built ouer the Canal Grande all of white marble This is one of the finest bridges in Europe because of the one arch onely of the vast widenesse and height of that arch the Chanel here being as wide as any man can throw a stone This bridge bears vpon its back two rowes of shops and little houses couered with lead and least this great weight should make the foundation sink they built it vpon piloties that is great trees ramed into the ground to the number of six thousand in all In fine this bridge cost two hundred and fifty thousand crownes It were a fine sight to see in a hard frost the streets of Venice all frozen and people walkeing vp and downe vpon diamant streets or a crystal pauement In the meane time it s no vnpleasing sight to see the streets full of water and such stately pallaces on either side especially the Canal Grande which runns quite through the midle of the Citie and is hedged in on either side with stately houses among which are counted two hundred pallaces fit to lodge any King The whole Citie hath in it 32 Monasteryes of Religious men 28 of Religious women 70 Parish Churches and about a hundred and fourscore thousand inhabitants Hauing sayd thus much of the situation of Venice I will now speak of the Gouerment Strength Riches Religion and Interest of this Republick and then fall to the particulars I saw in it For the Gouerment here it s purely Aristocratical by the Doge and the Nobles The great Counsel consists of two thousand Gentlemen This is the basis of the state Gouerment because that out of these are chosen all the other Magistrats Podestas Generals Capitani Gâ—andi Prouidetori Generali Embassadori c. This great Counsel assembles frequently in one great Roome of the Doges pallace where their are seats for them all and where businesses are voted by Baloting that is by puting into a close double boxe of two colours a little ball about the bigness of a button which is made so soft that no man can heare into whether part of the double boxe the ball falls Euery Gentleman in this great Counsel hath two of these balls giuen him one white and the other red the one signifyeing the affirmatiue vote the other the negatiue so that they giue their votes secretly and without being knowne afterwards for what party they stood or without giuing example to others to follow them in their votes as leading men would do and so draw all into faction and cabals To run through all the Maegistrats and Officiers of this Republick the Pregiadi the saui Grandi the saui di Terra ferma the saui de gli Ordini the consiglio de dieci c. would be aworke too long for a traueler and too tedious for my reader I will onely speake of the supreame Magistrate here the Doge or Prince as they call him who represents the head of this Republick He is now chosen by the whole Senate and is for life heretofore he was hereditary till the yeare 1032. the manner of baloting in choosing the Dogé is such a puzzle that I had rather you should read it in Sabellicus then I giue my self the trouble of describing it For the most part they choose a man well strucken in yeares and one who hath made his circle of Embassyes that is hath been fifteen years Embassador in all the chief courts of Europe three years a peece in euery one and so acquired vnto himself a perfect knowledge of all states and state affairs Being chosen once he cannot stirre out of the Laguna without leaue Nor at home can he do all things of his owne head but with the aduice of his Counselours who are six chosen out of the most honorable gentlemen of the Citie These six sit with him in Counsel execute with him all businesses as to giue audience read letters grant priuiledges and the like which cannot be executed by the Dogè if there be not four Counselours with him and yet they can execute and act without the Dogè and it s they that haue authority to propose in the Great Counsel things of concerne In giuing suffrages his suffrage is no more then an ordinary Senators in the Sanate but he hath two voyces in the Great Counsel The Dogè and these Counselours are called Il Câ—llegio but then in main publick affairs there enters into this Counsel six Saui Grandi fiue Saui di Terra Ferma fiue Saui de gli Ordini and tre Capi de Quaranta Criminali This full Colledge distributs businesses to the other Magistrats to be handed hauing been headed here The Habit of the Dogè is ancient and hath something of the Pontifical habit in it His Pompe Train and Lodgeing are all Princely and in publick functions he hath carryed before him the eight syluer trumpets the great Vmbrella of cloth of tyssue the cusshen the Chair the guilt sword and a wâ—ite wax candle carryed by a child All letters of State are written in his name and money is coyned in his name but the impronto or stamp of it is alwayes the figure of S. Marke or S. Marks Lyon For the most part the Dogè is chosen out of those whom they call here Procuratori di S. Marco These Procuratori are of high ranck and esteeme in this Republick Heretofore there was but one Procuratore di San Marco whose office was to haue a care of all things belonging to S. Marks Church and the Treasor But now there are twentyfiue most of which haue made their circle of Embassyes in forrain Courts and are fit wood to make Dogès of though some of them of late haue been assumed to that dignity for money the State now makeing money of all men as well as of all things As for the Strength and Power of Venice it s very Great their possessions in Italy being full as great as the Popes and out of Italy farre greater In Italy they hold fourteen Prouinces vnder them They are Lords of the Gulph or Adriatick Sea They possesse the coast of Dalmatia beyond the Gulph They hold
will say I change stile often and sometimes ruâ—n smoothly sometimes joltingly Truâ—â—raueled not allwayes vpon smooth ground and paceing horses Swisserlande and Sauoye are much different from Campania and Lombardy and its one thing to describe a Pleasant garden an other thing to describe a Venerable Cathedrall and if in the one and the other we haue seueral lookes much more ought we to haue seueral words in describing them Others will say I affect a world of exotick words not yet naturalized in England No I affect them not I cannot auoyd them For who can speak of Statues but he must speak of Niches or of Churches Wrought Tombes or inlayd Tables but hee must speak of Coupolas of bassi rilieui and of pietre commesse If any man vnderstand them not it s his fault not mine Others will say I hunt too much after Ceremonies and Church antiquityes No I onely meet them And as a man cannot speak of Hercules but he must speak of clubbs of combats of Labours and victories so I cannot speak of Rome the Christian but I must speake of Relicks Ceremonies and Religion Yet I beleeue I giue my Reader a full drought toâ— of prophane antiquityes Mascarades Shews dressings and passetimes Others in fine will say that I do but a thing done allready seeing two others haue written of this subiect in English Well if others haue written vpon this subiect why may not I They did the best they could I beleeue but they drew not vp the ladder after them The one writes much of Italy and says little the other writes little and leaueth out much which I impute to the ones writing out of old Geographers long after he had been there and to the others short stay in Italy when he was there And if these ingenious gentlemen haue painted out Italy in busto onely and profile why may not I paint her out at full face and at her full length If they like ancient Statuaryes haue represented Italy vnto vs like a naked statue I haue set her out in all her best Attire and Iewels And thus much for my owne sake For my countryes sake To read to my countrymen two profitable Lessons The first of the Profit of traueling The second of Traueling with profit 1. For the first to wit the Profit of Traueling its certain that if this world be a great booke as S. Augustin calls it none studdy this great Booke so much as the Traueler They that neuer stirr from home read onely one page of this booke and like the dull follow in Pliny who could neuer learne to count further then fiue they dwell allwayes vpon one lesson They are like an acquaintance of mine who had alwayes a booke indeed lyeing open upon a deske but it was obserued that it lay allwayes open at one and the same place and by long custome could lye open no where else He then that will know much out of this great booke the world must read much in it and as Vlysses is setforth by Homer as the wisest of all the Grecians because he had traueled much and had seen multorum hominum mores Vrbes the Cittyes and customes of many men so his sonn Telemachus is held for a very shallow witted man and Homer giues the reason because his mother Penelope instead of sending him abroad to see forrain countryes had allwayes kept him at home and so made him a meere Onocephalus and a homeling Mammacuth So true is the saying of Seneca that Imperitum est animal homo sine magna experientia rerum si circumscribatur Natalis soli sui fine 2 Traueling preserues my yong nobleman from surfeiting of his parents and weanes him from the dangerous fondness of his mother It teacheth him wholesome hardship to lye in beds that are none of his acquaintance to speak to men he neuer saw before to trauel in the morning before day and in the euening after day to endure any horse and weather as well as any meat and drink Whereas my country gentleman that neuer traueled can scarce go to London without makeing his Will at least without wetting his handkercher And what generous mother will not say to her sonn with that ancient Malo tibi malè esse quà m molliter I had rather thou shouldst be sick then soft Indeed the coral-tree is neither hard nor red till taken out of the Sea its natiue home And I haue read that many of the old Romans put out their children to be nurced abroad by Lacedemonian nurces till they were three yeares old then they put them to their Vncles till seauen or tenn then they sent them into Toscany to be instructed in Religion and at last into Greece to studdy Philosophy 3. Traueling takes my yong nobleman four notches lower in his self-conceit and pride For wheras the country Lord that neuer saw any body but his Fathers tennants and M. Parson and neuer read any thing but Iohn Stow and Speed thinks the Lands-end to be the Worlds-end and that all solid greatness next vnto a great Pasty consists in a great Fire and a great estate Wheras my traueling yong Lord who hath seen so many greater men and Estats then his owne comes home farre more modest and ciuil to his inferiours and farre lesse pufft vp with the empty conceit of his owne greatness Indeed nothing cured Alcibiades his pride so much as to see in a Map shewd him for the nonce by Socrates that his house and lands of which he was so prowd either appeared there not at all or onely a little spot or dab and nemo in pusillo magnus 4. Traueling takes off in some sort that aboriginal curse which was layd vpon mankind euen allmost at the beginning of the world I meane the confusion of tongues which is such a curse indeed that it makes men who are of one kind and made to be sociable so strangely to fly one an other that as great S. Austin sayth A man had rather be with his dog then with a man whose language he vnderstands not Nay this diuersity of language makes the wisest man passe for a foole in a strange country and the best man for an excommunicated person whose conuersation all men auoyd Now traueling takes off this curse and this moral excommunication by making vs learne many languages and conuerse freely with people of other countryes 5. Traueling makes vs acquainted with a world of our kinred we neuer saw before For seing we are all comne from one man at first and consequently all akinn to one another it s but a reasonable thing that a man should once at least in his life time make a journey into forrain countries to see his Relations and visit this kinred haueing allwayes this saying of young Joseph in his mouth quaero fratres meos 6. Traueling enables a man much for his countryes seruice It makes the merchant rich by shewing him what abounds wantes in other countryes that so he
better vsed then hee The Caruers neuer touch the meat with their hands but onely with their knife and forke and great Syluer spoone for the sauce Euery man here eats with his forke and knife and neuer toucheth any thing with his fingers but his bread This keeps the linnen neat and the fingers sweet If you drink to an Italian he thanks you with bending when you salute him and lets you drink quietly without watching as we do in England to thank you againe when you haue drunk and the first time he drinks after that will be to you in requitall of your former courtesy They count not the houres of the day as we do from twelue to twelue but they beginn their count from sunset and the first houre after sunset is one a clock and so they count on till four and Twenty that is till the next sunset againe I haue often dined at sixteen a clock and gone abroad in the euening to take the ayre at two and twenty They call men much by their Christen names Signor Pietro Signor Francesco Signor Jacomo c. and you may liue whole years with an Italian and be very well acquinted with him without knowing him that is without knowing his distintiue surname People of quality neuer visit one another but they send first to know when they may do it without troubleing him they intend to visit by this meanes they neuer rush into one anothers chambers without knocking as they do in France nor crosse the designes or business of him they visit as they do in England with tedious dry visits nor find one another either vndressed in clothes vnprouided in compliments and discourse or without their attendants and traine about them In the streets men and women of condition seldome or neuer go together in the same coache except they be strangers that is of an other towne or country nay husbands and wifes are Seldome seen together in the same coache because all men do not know them to be so In the streets when two persons of great quality meet as two Embassadors or two Cardinales they both stop their coaches and compliment one another ciuily and then retire but still he that is inferiour must let the others coache moue first If any man being a foot in the street meet a great man either in coache or a foot he must not salute him in going on his way as we do in England and France without stopping but he must stand still whiles the other passeth and bend respectfully to him as he goes by and then continue his march In fine of all the Nations I haue seen I know none that liues clothes eats drinks and speaks so much with reason as the Italians do As for their Riches they must needs be great That which is visible in their magnificent Pallaces Churches Monasteries Gardens Fountains and rich furnished Roomes speaks that to be great which is in their coffers and that which the King of spayne drawes visibly from Naples euery yeare shews what the other parts of Italy could do for a need if they were put to it by necessity Nay I am of opinion that the very Sacristy of Loreto the Gallery of the Duke of Florence and the Treasory of Venice would vpon an emergent occasion of a Gothick or Turkish inuasion be able to maintain an army for fiue yeares space and the Plate in Churches and Monasteryes would be able to do as much more if the owners of it were soundly frighted with a new Gothick irruption As for the Riches of particular Princes in Italy I will speak of them as I view their Stats here below In fine as for their Religion it s purely that which other countrys call by its true name Catholick and which in England they commonly call the Religion of the Papists And though there they think to nickname the Catholick by calling him Papist yet the well instructed Catholick knowing that the name of Papist comes not from any Sectmaster as Caluinist Lutheran Socinian and Brownist doe nor from any Sectary meeting place as Hugonots from the Gate of Hugo in Towers in France neare vnto which they mett priuately at first to teach and dogmatise nor from any publick sectary action as Anabaptists Dippers Quakers c. do but from the word Papa which signifies Father and is not the name of any one man or Pope but onely signifies his Fatherly office of Pastor tho Catholick I say is no more troubled at this name of Papist then he was when hee was called in the late troubles Royallist for adhearing to the king which is not the name of any of our kings but his office onely and not Cromwellist which was the name of one adhearing to a particular man called Cromwell and an vnlawfull vsurper of Power As for the true name indeed which is Catholick it is so knowne to belong to those of the Roman Church that besides that all those of that Church haue euer called themselues by no other name then this of Catholick the wisest of Protestants also acknowledge it publikely to be their distinctiue name witnesse that solemne meeting at Munster some yeares ago about the General Peace of Christendome where the Publick Jnstrument of that Peace sheweth plainly how that the Protestant Plenipotentiaries the wisest men of that Religion treated with the Papists as some call them vnder the name of Catholicks and though in many other titles and denominations they were very wary and scrupulous euen to the long suspension of the Peace yet they willingly concluded subscribed and signed that Peace made with them vnder the name of Catholicks I say this onely for to make men vnderstand what the true name of the Religion practised ouer all Jtaly is to-wit Catholick Haueing sayd thus much of Italy in Generall I will now come to a particular Description of it according to the ocular obseruations I made of it in fiue seueral Voyages through it In which Description if I be a little prolixe it is because I rid not Poste through Italy when I saw it nor will I write poste through it in describing it being assured that Epitomees in Geography are as dissatisfactory as Laconick Letters would be in state Relations and that the great Atlas in nine great volumes in folio is not onely Atlas Maior but also Atlas Melior The seueral wayes by which a man may go into Italy THE ordinary wayes which an Englishman may take in going into Italy are fiue to wit either through Flanders and Germany and so to fall in at Trent or Treuiso and so to Venice Or els by France and so to Marseilles and thence to Genua by Sea Or els by land from Lyons through Swisserland the Grisâ—ns country and the Valteline and so pop vp at Brescia Or els from Lyons againe through the Valesians country ouer Mount Sampion the Lake Maior and so to Milan Or els in fine from Lyons still ouer Mount Cenis and so to Turin the
signifie that it belongs to the Canton of Berne and is Protestant and yet they liue ciuilly and neighbourly together without quarreling about Religion Passing thus a long I came to Soleur Soloturrum in Latin a neat towne and Head of a Canton They are all Catholicks here and here it is that the French Embassadours to the Swissers alwayes reside as the Spanish Embassadors do at Lucerna This towne is very ancient as the golden Letters vpon the clock testifye for those words make Soleur to be onely yonger then her Sister Treuers which as Aeneas Syluius writes was built 1300 yeares before Rome As for Soleur I find in good Cronologers that it was built 2030 years after the creation of the world From Soleur I went to Murat a little towne famous for a great battle fought hard by it by the Duke of Burgondy and the Swissers For the the Duke of Burgondy beseiging Murat the Swissers came vpon him with a great army and defeated him I was told here that the Duke seeing his army defeated and himself enuironed on one side by the Lake here and on the other side by the enemyes conquering army chose rather to trust himself to the Lake then to his ennemyes Wherevpon spurring his horse into the Lake one of his Dages to saue himself also leaped vp behind him as he tooke water The Duke out of feare either perceiued him not at first or dissembled it till he came to the other side of the Lake which is two miles broad The stout horse tugged through with them both and saued them both from drowning but not both from death For the Duke seing in what danger his page had put him stabbed the Page with his dagger Poore Prince thou mighst haue giuen an other offering of thanks giueing to God for thy escape then this nay thou mighst haue been as ciuil as thy horse and haue spaired him whom beasts and waues had saued At least by that means thou mighst haue saueed thy owne honour by saueing that poore page who offended rather out of feare of death then out of malice and thereby thou mighst haue truly sayd that thou hadst not lost all thy men in that battle But passion is a blind thing Nothing is so dangerous to man as man and as I obserued aboue we are neuer in greater danger then when we think we are past danger Thebones of the Burgundians slain in this battle are seen in a great Chappel which stands a little distant from the towne and vpon the road with an inscription vpon it touching the time and circumstances of this defeat From Murat I made towards Zuric a head towne also of a Canton It stands most sweetly vpon a Lake whose crystalin waters would delight any body else but Swissers They are all here Swinglians and when Mareshal D'Estrée the French Embassadour to Rome passed that way and lodged at the great Jnn of the Sword as he was combing his head one morning in his combing cloth with his chamber window open some of the townes men who saw him from an other opposit window putting on that combeing cloth and thinking it had been a Priest putting on the Amice and vesting himself for to say Masse before the Embassadour in his chamber began with a Dutch clamour to stirre vp the people to a mutiny about the Embassadours house and to call for the Priest that was saying of Masse The Embassadour at first not vnderstanding the cause of this vproare about his house rann downe with sword in hand and in his combeing cloth to check the first man that should darre to enter his lodgings but vnderstanding at last that his combing cloth had caused this iealousy hee laughed at their folly and retired away contented The best things to be seen in Zuric are these 1. The neat Arsenal furnished with store of fair Cannons and armes of all sortes 2. The great Library but in this much lesse esteemed by mee because a woman had the Key of it and let vs in to see it This peice of false Latin at the entrance disgusted me with all that I saw there and made me hasten out quickly Good Libraries should not fall en quenoüille 3. The Wheeles which draw vp water from the Lake of themselues and empty it into seueral Pipes so conueigh it all ouer the towne 4. The publick great drinking hall where there are a world of little tables for men of seueral corporations or trayds to meet at and either talk there of their business or make drinking their business Ouer euery table hangs the signe of each trad as a Last for shoomakers a saddle for sadlers a sword for cutlers c. There is a great Bell that rings to this meeting place euery day at two a clock and when I heard so solemne a ringing I thought it had been to some Church deuotion not to a drinking assembly From Zuric I went by water that is vpon the lake a whole dayes iourney and passed vnder a bridge of wood which crosseth quite ouer the lake for two miles It s entertained at the cost of the King of Spayne to passe the soldiers which he often rayseth in the adiacent countryes From hence I went to Coire or Cear the head towne of the Grisons The Bishop and the Clergy of the great Church with some few others liuing within the precincts of the Cloister of the great Church are Catholicks and performe their deuotions in the Church without controll the rest of the inhabitants are Swinglians and possesse the towne yet they suffer the Bishop and his Clergy to liue quietly in the midst of them They shewed me here in this Church diuers fine Relicks especially the Head enchased in syluer of our ancient Brittan King Lucius the first Christian king that euer made profession of Christian Religion and the first who helpt to plant it here The ancient Church office here relates all this as their Church bookes shewed me From the Grisons I went to the Country of the Valtaline a country subiect to the Grisons and keeping its fidelity to them euen when it would not haue wanted assistance from Spayne and Italy if it would haue been false to its Superiors the Grisons vnder the colour of Religion those of the Valtaline being all Catholicks and their souuerains the Grisons Caluinists In a little towne of the Grisons called Herberga I was shewed a cheese and giuen to taste of it too by myne hoste the Maior of the towne a Caluinist in Religion and a Venerable old man who assured me seriously that that cheese was a hundred years old a Venerable Cheese indeed and well nigh as old as his Religion Between these two countryes of the Grisons and the Valtaline stands the great Hill Berlino ouer which I passed and fell from thence upon Posciauo a little bourg and so to our Ladyes of Tirano a neat Church with a fair Inn hard by it Others to auoyd the
Maria Trasteuere the first Church built in Rome sayth Baronius and built there where anciently stood the Tabernae meritoriae where the maimed soldiers receiued their pittance dayly The Guilt roof and the two rowes of marble pillars do much beautify this Church Vnder the High Altar is yet seen the place where oyle yssued out as from a Fountain a little before our Sauiours birth as denounceing his birth to be at hand who was to be called Christus that is annointed In this Church lye buryed Cardinal Hosius a most learned Trent Father and Cardinal Campegius the Popes Legate in England in Henry the VIII time You see here the stone that was tyed about the neck of S. Calixtus Pope when he was throwne into a Well Here also you see great round stones which where hung at the fee◠of the Martyrs to torment them The Conuent of Franciscan Fryer◠called S. Francesco in Ripa Grand◠is hard by where I saw the Chamber where great S. Francis lodged when he liued in Rome It s now turned into a Chappel In the Church there is an excellent picture of Piety made by Caraccio Here in the Church is the tombe of Beata Ludouica Mathei of the the third order of S. Francis I tooke the Ripa grande in my way and saw there the boates of marchandise which come to Rome from Ligorne Giuità Vechia Naples and other places and disembark their goods here From the Ripa I went to S. Cicilies Church built where her house was and where she was put to death for the Christian religion Vnder the High Altar of this Church is the tombe of this primitiue Saint with her statue in a couchant posture and iust as her body was found in Clement the VIII time wrapt vp in vayls stayned with blood and couered with a robe of gold The neat decoration before the High Altar with the syluer lamps burning before the Tombe of this Saint was the foundation of Cardinal Sfondrati At the end of this Church as you come in are seen yet the stoues in which S. Cicily was shut vp in her owne house to be stifled but that failing she was beheaded The stoues are yet entire and shewing the manner of the ancient stoues In the Church portch I found the Tombe of one Adam an English Bishop of London and Cardinal of this tittle who dyed in Rome an 1397. it hath these verses vpon it Artibus iste pater famosus in omnibus Adam Theologus summus Cardinalisque erat Anglia cui patriam titulum dedit ista Beatae Aedes Caeciliae morsque suprema Polum Not farre from this Church stands S. Chrysogonus his Church a neat Church repayred some yeares ago by Cardinal Burghesi The four pillars of the High Altar looke as if they were of sand and cristal petrifyed together On the left hand of the wall neare the great dore lyes buryed Robert Archbishop of York and titular of this Church but this was all I could learne out of the Tombstone Hauing thus wandered ouer the Trasteuere I made towards the I le of S. Bartholomew in which stands a good Hospital and a Conuent of Franciscans in whose Church reposeth vnder the High Altar in a faire porphyrie Tombe the body of S. Bartholmew Apostle This Ile was anciently called Insula Tiberina and it was first made by the corne of Tarquinius Superbus which being after his ejection out of the City pluckt vp by the rootes and throwne into the riuer by reason of the quantity of earth that stuck to the rootes stopped here where the water was low and this stoppage once begun all the mud of the riuer came afterwards to stop here too and so in time to forme a little I le in the midst of the riuer Going out of the I le by the bridge of four heads anciently called Pons Fabricius which ioynes this I le with the City I looked downe the riuer on my right hand to see the Pons Sublicius which Cocles alone defended against an army till the bridge was cut downe behind him which he perceiuing leapt into the riuer armed and swome safe to his fellow Citizens who were as glad to see him come off safe as to finde themselues safe It was called Pons Sublicius from the word Sublica in Latin which signifies great beams of wood of which it was made it was afterwards built of stone by Aemilius From this bridge the wicked Emperor Heliogabalus was throwne into the riuer and drowned with a great stone about his neck No sooner was I ouer this bridge but I saw on my left hand the great back dore of the Jewry for here the Iews liue all together in a corner of the towne and are locked vp euery night I entred into their Synagogues here which they call their schooles where they meet vpon Saturdays and sing and pray I wondered at first that they had learned no more manners in these their schooles then to enter into them to pray without either puting of hats lifting vp eyes or bending of knees to the Great Iehoua whom they rather feare then loue Moses going to him put of this shooes and I expected that these men should at least haue put of their hatts at the entrance into their Synagogues but they are Archclownes and their fowle towels at the entrance into their Synagogues told me as much I once saw a circumcision but it was so painfull to the child that it was able to make a man heartily thank God that he is a Christian And realy If the little child could speak and wish I beleeue he would wish him selfe the greatest curse in the world and to be a woman rather then a man vpon such termes I saw also a marriage here performed with many ceremonyes Returning out of the Jewry by the same gate I entred I saw on my left hand the Pallace of Princ Sauelli its built vpon the ruines of the Theater of Marcellus built by Augustus in honour of his Nephew Marcellus it was capable of fourscore thousand men Passing on I came to an ancient Church called Santa Maria in Cosmedin or in Schola Graeca where S. Austin before his conuersion taught Rhetorick In the portch of this Church stands a great round stone cut into the face of a man with a great wide mouth commonly called La bocca della Verità The mouth of Truth but this not being affirmed by the Mouth of truth I dare not beleeue it I rather beleeue it serued in some old building for a gutter spout I know truth may speake lowd and haue a wide mouth but he that takes euery wide mouth for the mouth of Truth is much mistaken The next Church I came to was Santa Maria Egyptiaca it was the Temple of the Sun and Iupiter This Church is neatly adorned with curious chanelled pillars It belongs to the Armenians who haue an Hospital also here
Pope Honorius the First A courteous Father of S. Bernards Order here did me the fauour to shew me neare the high Altar this Head and this Picture These two are most authentical things for the attestation of them is in the very Acts of the second Concil of Nice held an 789 where to prooue the lawfullness of sacred Images against the Iconoclasts â—â—e sacred Council cites a miracle wrought by this very picture of S. Anastasius and Baronius quotes diuers others wrought by the same picture In the second Church here to wit the little round Church on the righâ— hand there is a famous picture of S. Bernards Extasis Vnder this Church I was led into a Vault where many of the bodyes of the foresayd ten thousand Christians who were martyred with S. Zeno are buryed This vault goes a mile vnder-ground In the third place stands the little Church of the Tre Fontane so called because S. Paul was here beheaded and where his head iumpt thrice three fountains gushed out Vpon an Altar on the left hand is an excellent Picture of S. Peters crucifixion of the hand of Guido Rheni On the other side is seen a little block within an yron grate vpon which they say S. Pauls head was cut off Going from hence I went ouer the fields to the Church of the Annuntiata one of the nine Churches of Rome visited by Pilgrims and from thenc to S. Sebastians S Sebastians Church is one of the seauen Churches and of great deuotion by reason of the Catacombes which are vnder it Here I saw the Tombe of S. Sebastian vnder an altar on the left hand many relicks kept ouer an altar on the right hand and the Vault vnderneath where Pope Steuen was beheaded in his owne Seat of stone and where S. Peters and S. Pauls bodyes were hidden many yeares Thenc I was let into the Catacombes which are vnder this Church and which from thenc running many miles vnder ground made anciently a Christian Rome vnder the Heathen There were divers of these Catacombes in the primitiue times and they were called diuersly Arenaria Cryptae Areae Concilia Martyrum Poliandria but most frequently Caemeteria that is dormitoria because here reposed the bodyes of the holy Martyrs and Saints qui obdormiuerunt in Domino But the greatest of all these Caemeteria was this of Calixtus In these Catacombes dureing the persecutions raysed against the Christians by ten Heathen Emperors the faithfull beleeuers together with their Popes and Pastors vsed priuatly to meet to excercice their Religion and steale their deuotions that is to heare Masse in little round Chappels painted ouer head poorely Minister the Sacraments bury the dead Martyrs and Confessors in the walls of the long alleys preach hold conferences and euen celebrate Councils too sometimes I descended seueral times into seueral parts of these Catacombes with a good experienced guide which you must besure of and with waxe lights torches being too stifeling and wandered them vp and downe with extraordinary satisfaction of minde The streets vnder ground are cut out with mens hands and mattocks They are as high as a man for the most part no broader then for two men to meet All the way long the sides of these Alleys are full of holes as long as a man and sometimes there are three rowes one ouer an other in which they had buryed their Martyrs and Confessors and that posterity might afterwards know which were Martyrs which Confessors they engraued vpon the stone which mur'd them vp or vpon one of the bricks a Palme branch in signe of a Martyr and a Pro Christo in Cyphers for a Confessor It s recorded that during the forsayd persecutions a hundred seauenty four thousand Martyrs were buryed here in this Cametery of Calixtus among whom were nineteen Popes Martyrs Hence these Catacombes haue alwayes been esteemed as a place of great deuotion and much frequented by deuout persons The words ouer the dore as you descend into them from the Church of S. Sebastian tell you how S. Hierome confesseth that he vsed euery Sunday and Holyday during his stay in Rome to go to these Catacombes And a picture hung ouer the same dore sheweth how S. Philip Neri vsed to frequent these holy places in the night and from whence I beleeue he sucked that true spirit of the primitiue Church which reigned in him and still reigneth in the breasts of his most vertuous children the pious Priests of the Oratory of Rome whom I must alwayes prayse wheresouer I find them because I alwayes find them either writeing holy things or liuing them that is either writeing books fit to be liued or liuing liues fit to be written Indeed its incredible how much the presence of these Holy Martyrs bodyes hath sanctifyed this place in so much that no man enters into the catacombes but he comes better out then he went in Catholicks come out farre more willing to dye for that faith for which so many of their ancesters haue dyed before them The Aduersaryes of the Roman Church come out more staggered in their fayth and more milde towards the Catholick Religion to see what piety there is euen in the bowels of Rome Atheists come out with that beleef that surely there is a God seing so many thousands of Martyrs haue testifyed it with their blood From S. Sebastians I went to the place hard by called Capo di Boue standing vpon the Via Appia It is a great building faced about with marble stones It was the Sepulcher of Metella wife of rich Crassus It s now called Capo di Boue because of the oxe heads cut in marble which compose the cornice that runns about the top of this Moles Entering into it you will wonder at the thickness of the walls which are aboue eight ells thick It was begun to be pulled downe especialy the great marble stones on the outside of it to make vp the Fontana di Treui but Cardinal Barberino would not suffer it to be so defaced Close by stand the ruines of the Pretorium the Quarters of the Pretorian Bands which the Emperours lodged here a little out of the throng of the towne that they might not occasion so easily tumults and that they might exercise themselues often in the Circo of Caracalla which was hard by This Circus was made by the Emperor Caracalla and is the most entire of all the Circos that were in Rome You see where the Carceres or starting place was where the Meta where the Guglia were You see how long it was and the walls yet show you what compasse it carryed In the midst of it stood that Guglia which now stands in the midst of Piazza Nauona I saw it lye here broken in three peeces and neglected quite till the Earle of Arundel our late Lord Mareshal Offering to buy it hauing already depositated threescore crownes in earnest for it made the
nothing rare in them but themselues The Garden of this house is curious for fine walks store of fountains and the coole Grotta vnder great shady trees where there are fine water-works and an organ playing without any fingers to touch it Ouer against the backdore of this garden stands the nouitiate of the Iesuits with the ne a new Church fine gardens Returning from hence I stept into the Church of S. Syluester ouer against the Pallace of Mazzarini belonging to the Theatins and there saw the tombe of Cardinal Bentiuoglio the moderne Liuy of Italy The garden here standing in a fair prospect is very pleasant and delightsome Descending from hence by a priuate street I went to S. Agathas Church in the Saburra neare the foot of the Quirinal Hill The body of S. Agatha lyes vnder the Altar Before the dore of this Church are some ancient sâ—atues of little boyes in the habit of the Praetexta a habit belonging to noblemens children From hence passing by the Church of Madonna del Monte a Church of great deuotion I went vp the Hill to S. Peters ad Vincola where I saw the famous statue of Moyses sitting It s of white marble and adorning the Tombe of Iulius Secundus It s enough to tell you that it was made by Michael Angelo and admired by all Sculptors Here 's neare vnto the dore of the Church an Altar with the statue of S. Sebastian at the erecting of which the plague ceased in Rome sayth Baronius In the Sacristy of this Church I saw the chaines in which S. Peter was fettered in prison and which make this Church be called S. Peter ad Vincula S. Martino in Monte fellows the next and is a neat Church now In a caue below there were two Councils held by S. Syluester in the primitiue times of persecution as the words vpon the wall as you descend into the Caue and Baronius testify It s sayd that in this place was exercised the first publick profession of Christian Religion Then the Church of S. Praxedes were I saw the pillar at which our Sauiour was whipped It s a low round pillar of speckled marble It stands within a little grate of iron The old writeing ouer the dore of that Chappel tells you that it was brought to Rome from Hierusalem four hundred yeares ago by a Cardinal Colonna In the mistd of the Church is a Well now couered where S. Praxedes hid the Relicks and bodyes of Martyrs In an other Chappel I saw the Picture of the Descent of our Sauiour from the Crosse made by Guido In the Balcones aboue in the pillars I saw by special fauour many curious Relicks From hence I went to S. Mary Maiors Church so called because it is the greatest of all the Churches of our Lady in Rome It s built vpon the Monte Esquilino and vpon the place which was couered miraculously with snow on the V of August The history of it is knowne by the solemne Feast in the Kalender called Sancta Maria ad Niues and it is expressed in the old Mosaik pictures which are set here in the wall ouer the pillars that beare vp the roof The most remarkable things I saw here were these 1. The Tombe of the founder of this Church Patritius whose body lies in a tombe of Porphyrie neare the great dore 2. The noble guilt roof or soffita which was guilt with the first gold that came out of the Indies in Alexander the VI time whose armes are set vp in this roofe 3. The Mosaick pictures which runn along this Church containing the history of the old and new Testament and the history of the building of this Church 4. The High Altar vnder which reposeth the body of S. Mathias the Apostle whose head is exposed vpon the Altar in a crystal vpon his day 5. The Tombe of an Embassador of Congo to Paulus V. Its ouer against the statue in brasse of Paulus V. neare the Sacristy 6. The little back Court there with the Eccho in the well which answers you indeed but like a sharp scold too quick and short 7. The Rare Chappel of Sixtus V. made by Domenico Fontana which cost seaven hundred thousand crownes The most famous actions of Sixtus Quintus and of Pius Quintus who made Sixtus Cardinal are carued in white marble round about the Chappel S. Hieromes ashes are buryed here in a side Altar on the left hand and where should we looke for S. Hierome but neare our Sauiours Crib which is here enchased in crystal in a low Chappel vnder the high Altar of this Chappel It s showne publickly vpon Christmasse day The Tabernacle of brasse borne vp by four Angels of brasse with one hand and holding each one a torch in the other hand is most stately 8. Oueragainst this Chappel stands the Chappel of Paulus V. much like the other in all things except that the chief Altar stands not in the middle but at the end of it This Altar is of a Very neat contriuance and of as rich materials Four great Pillars of Iasper polished adorned with Capitels and bases of brasse guilt hold vp the back of this Altar which is all of Lapis Luzuli or Oriental blew azule stone in the midst of which is a little Nichio in the Wall where the picture of our Blessed Lady with our Sauiour in her armes made by S. Luke is conserued and seen This Nichio is surrounded with a row of rich pretious stones of great value set thick about it and shut vp with two little half dores of two whole Agates each of them two foot long and a foot large Theodorus Lector an ancient Author makes mention of this picture and sayth Pulcherioe Eudocia Imaginem Matris Christi quam Lucas Apostolus Pinxerat Hierosolymis misit That is Eudocia sent vnto Pulcheria from Hierusalem the picture of the mother of Christ which Luke the Apostle had painted The picture it self is so old and placed so high that its hard to perceiue the lineaments of the faces vnlesse you see it with a waxe taper at the end of a long pole as I did In fine this was the picture which S. Gregory the Great a thousand yeares agoe carryed in procession vpon Easier day when he saw ouer the Moles Adriani an Angel sheathing his sword in signe of the ceasing of the plague The roof or little cupola of this Chappel is painted by the hand of Guido Rheni of Bologna The side walls of this Chappel are of white marble cut in mezzo relieuo and containing the chief actions of Clement the VIII and Paulus V whose statues are also here in white marble 9. Without the Church stand two great pillars at each end of it the one an Egyptian Guglia cut with Hieroglyphs the other a Roman Pillar taken out of the ruines of the Temple of Peace which is of a prodigious height with the statue of our
taken in this battle are set round about the Church in one of the flags ouer the dore I found Crosse Keys Cardinals Caps Miters and Priests corned caps all turned topsy turuy with this single motto Extirpentor Here are very neat Chappels especially that on the left hand where is seen the representation of S. Teresa wounded by a Seraphin It s an admiraole peece of Beruini In the Conuent you see painted in a Sala the battle of Prague and in the Sacristy a sepulcher of our Sauiour all of Iuory extraordinarily well wrought Before the dore of the forsayd Church stands the great Fountaine called Fontana Felice where the Aqueduct of Sixtus Quintus who before his assumption to Ecclesiastical dignities was called in his Monastery â—ra Felice disburdeneth it self into a great stone basin and from thene is carryed into diuers parts of the towne From hence I went to the garden of Montalto which is hard by This is one of the best gardens in Rome and therefore deserues well to be seen At your entrance into it you see a round table of a blewish stone vpon which the armes of the house of Montalto are engrauen at which while you gaze curiously and neare at hand the gardiner by pressing his foot vpon a low iron pump vnder the table presseth out water on all sides of that round table and well-cometh the strangers that come to see his garden Then mounting into the little Pallace neare that dore I saw diuers good pictures and statues of the house of Montalto and others There also I saw a wooden organ pipes and all and yet of no vngreatfull sound There also I saw the picture of Dauid killing Goliath It turnes vpon a frame and shews you both the foreside of those combatans and their backsides two which other pictures do not Here are curious Vrnes the true busto of sixtus V. a tabernacle of richstones There is a pictures in stones of seueral colours which held one way represents nothing but a bunch of hearbs but held vp an other way it represents a mans head and face in fine here is in this little pallace a neat Library in a coole roome ouer the dore of which on the in side are written these words Medicina animi as if Libraries were nothing but phisick gardens for the minde Descending againe into the garden I saw store of wetting sports and water workes most curiously coÌ„triueed most stately walkes From hence we went to the Carthusians Church which is hard by This Church and Monastery are built vpon the ruines of the Bathes of Diocletian For this cruel Emperor with his associat Maximian condemned forty thousand Christians to worke in this building for the space of fifteen yeares together and afterwards condemned many thousands of them to death for their religion Thus men work for Tyrants But such is the wonderfull prouidence of God Churches of Christians now stand where Christians were condemned to death and torments The blood of these martyrs was but the seed of Christians and when Diocletian condemned Christians to worke here me thinks he did but bid them go lay the foundation of a Monastery for Carthusians and of a Church for the worship of that God he so much persecuted Hauing seen this Church and Monastery I went to see the Popes Graneries vast buildings two stories high and alwayes full of wheat for the present vse of the whole city A world of officers and ouerseers belong to these Graneries and are alwayes turning ouer and keeping the vast heapes of wheat from spoyling and corrupting By sticking vp canes in the heapes of wheat they can tell smelling at the ends of these canes whether the wheat begin to moisten and corrupt or no and accordingly giue order either to turne it and ayre it or presently to giue it out to the bakers These Graneries were also built vpon the ruines of Diocletians Baths From these Graneries I went to the towne Gate not farre off called Porta Pia and from thence streight along for a good mile to S. Agneses Church Vnder the high Altar reposeth the body of that tender Virgin who being as innocent as her name suffered martyrdome at thirteen and triumphed ouer the world before she could know it Close by stands the Church of S. Constantia an other holy primitiue Virgin Here I saw the famous Tombe commonly called Bacchus his Tombe but falsely seing it was the Tombe of S. Constantia It s a vast arca or Chest of one Porphyrie stone aboue half a foote thick and six foot long It s all cut on the outside with a basso rilieuo in a most admirable manner From hence crossing ouer the fields I went to Borghesis Villa and garden which are a little half mile from the towne This is the greatest Villa that 's about Rome For here you haue store of walkes both open and close fish ponds vast cages for birds thickets of trees store of fontaines a park of deere a world of fruit trees statues of all sizes banqueting places Grottas wetting sports and a stately pallace adorned with so many rare statues and pictures that their names make a booke in octauo which I referre you to As for the pallace it selfe its compassed on both sides by a fair demicircle of statues which stand before the two dores like old Penates and Lares The wall of the house is ouercrusted with a world of Anticallie or old marble peeces of antiquity as that of Curtius spurring into the Vorago that of Europa hurryed away by Iupiter becomne a Bull with a world of such like fables Entring into the house I saw diuers roomes full of curiosityes In the great hall stands the statue of Diana in Oriental Alabaster which was once à Deity adored by Augustus Caesar Here also hang two great pictures the one representing a Caualcata when the Pope goeth abroad in ceremony the other a Caualcata when the Great Turke goeth abroad in pompe 2. In an other roome stands the statue of one of the famous gladiators anciently who fought alone against twenty others and being wounded to death seems to threaten with his lookes all his beholders It s terribly well made 3. In one of the chambers aboue is the head in profile of Alexander the Great cut in marble 4. In an other roome below I saw the Statue of Seneca bleeding to death It s of a black stone like Ieat then which nothing can be blacker but the crimes of Nero the Magistricide who put this rare man his master to death 5. The statue also of Daphne and Apollo in alabaster Apollo running after Daphne and she stiffening into a tree being ouer taken her fingers shooting into branches and her toes into rootes are admirably well done It must be Berninis worke 6. The statue also of Aeneas carryeing his old Father Anchises vpon his back out of burning Troye The yong man is brawny and strong the old man is made leane and weake as also the yong
bassi rilieui that its hard to decipher them He that 's curious to know them may buy them in the printed cutts sold in Rome Vpon the top of this pillar stands mounted the statue in brasse guilt of S. Paul set vp here by Sixtus Quintus From the top of this pillar I had a perfect view of Rome and of almost all the Seauen hills vpon which it is built and are within the wals which are these 1. The Capitolin hill where now Ara Coeli stands and the Conseruatorio 2. The Palatin hill I could not see because it stands behind the former It was so called from the Emperors Pallace that stood vpon it 3. The Auentin hill so called from Auentinus king of Alba buryed here where now S. Sabinas is 4. The Coelian hill beginning at S. Gregories and running to S. Iohn Laterans 5. The Esquilin hill exquilinus quasi excubinus because of the nightly watch and gard vpon it Here stands S. Mary Magiors 6. The Viminal hill so called from Vimina that is Osiers where with it was anciently couered Here stand the Thermae Diocletiani and the Villa of Montalto 7. The Quirinal hill so called from the temple of Quirinus or Romulus which stood vpon it Here now stands Montecauallo These were the Seauen ancient Hills of Rome to which were added three more to wit The Ianicule Hill so called from Ianus buryed here Here stands S. Pietro Montorio The Vatican Hill so called from the Vaticinations and southsayings made here S. Peters Church stands now vpon it The Pincian Hill now called Montrinita Descending from hence I went to the Pazzorella where they keep madmen and fooles and saw there strange variety of humours in folly yet I was pleased to see with what charity and care those poore men were tended there From hence I stept to consider in the piazza di Pietra the row of curious pillars which adorned the Basilica of the Emperor Autoninus who had his pallace here and his Forum Then turning by little vnfrequented streets I came to the Roman Colledge belonging to the Iesuits It s a faire building and stands conueniently for concourse of schollers from all parts Here I saw the schooles Gallery of famous Athanasius Kerkerius full of pretty curiosityes and experiences both mecanical mathematical and hydraulical yet in my opinion it s farre short of Canonico Settalas gallery in Milan or Monsieur Seruiers in Lyons Here 's also a faire Library hauing no fault in it but the common fault of most Libraries to-wit Locks and keys to it Good bookes should be as common as the sun seing they are the lights of our mindes and made publick by the presse and I camot but pitty a booke that 's emprisoned and locked vp in a Library by saying vnto it Odisti claues grata sigilla pudicae Paucis ostendi gemis communia laudas In fine I saw here the Apothecaries shop where a Lay brother maKes excellent Roman Treacle and other odoriferous distillations of souerain Vertue The Church belonging to this Colledge is designed to be a noble thing but it s but half built for want of a whole founder From hence I went to the Dominicans Conuent called la Minerua because it s built vpon the Place where anciently stood the Temple of Minerua Hence also the Church is called Sancta Maria supra Mineruam In this Church I saw many neat Tombes as those of Leo the X and Clement the VII both Popes of the house of Medices they stand in the Quire and are neatly wrought by that great artist Baccio Bandinelli Then the Tombe of Cardinal Pimentelli a moderne Cardinal The tombe of great Cardinal Morone Legate for the Pope in the Council of Trent and a man who had been thirteen times Legatus a Latere Here also lye buryed the ashes of Egidio Foscarari Bishop of Modena called in the Council of Trent Luminare Maius The tombe of a Lady of the family of the Raggi is very neat for the new manner of spreading as I may say and as you would think of black marble vpon an other coloured marble and both of them vpon a round pillar Here on the gospel side of the high Altar standeth a statue of our Sauiour made by Michel Angelo of white marble a rare peece At the entrance of the great dore of this Church lyes buryed vnder a plain flat stone Thomas a Vio Caetanus S. Thomas of Aquins Second his Brother in Religion his Namesake his learned Commentator and onely not hee Out of humility he would not be buryed within the Church but out of it In the Sacristy of this Church I saw the Chappel of S. Katherine of Siena and this Chappel was once her very chamber in Siena Cardinal Antonio Barberino Protector of this order caused it to be transferred hither from Siena Her body lyeth vnder the Altar of the Rosary in this Church From the Minerua I went to Saint Andrea de la Valle a fine Church belonging to the Theatins It s built vpon the place where the Theater of Pompey stood anciently and where in latter times stood the Pallace of the family of the Picolomini and perchanâ— this was the reason why two Popes of that family to-wit Pius Secundus and Pius Tertius are now buryed in this Church The Cupola was painted by Caualier Lanfranco the three corners vnder the Cupola and the tribune are of the hand of Domenichini The neat Chappel of the Barberini made by Pope Vrban the VIII while he was but yet Cardinal is built vpon the very place where S. Sebastian was beaten and throwne into a sink after he had been shot There had been formerly a little Church built vpon this place and ouer this sinke but Sixtus Quintus gaue leaue it should be pulled downe vpon condition a chappel of the new designed Church should be built in place of it In fine take all this Church together and it is one of the neatest Churches except the Basilicae that are in Rome being of the Architecture of Maderna In the piazza or rather the street which goes before this Church liued not long agoe Pietro della Valle that ingenious Roman gentleman who hauing spent great meanes in traueling hath left vs three volumes in quarto of his curious relations of Voyages In his house here he had three whole Mummies with their coffins or cases painted anciently and adorned with diuers hyeroglyphs He spent much money in buying many other rarityes which he kept also here Behinde this Church liued when I first was acquainted with Rome an other great Virtuoso and Gentleman of Rome I meane the ingenious Caualier Pozzo with whom I was brought acquainted and saw all his rarityes his curious pictures medals bassi rilieui his excellent bookes of the rarest things in the world which he caused to be painted copied and designed out with great cost From