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A58175 Observations topographical, moral, & physiological made in a journey through part of the low-countries, Germany, Italy, and France with a catalogue of plants not native of England, found spontaneously growing in those parts, and their virtues / by John Ray ... ; whereunto is added a brief account of Francis Willughby, Esq., his voyage through a great part of Spain. Ray, John, 1627-1705.; Willughby, Francis, 1635-1672. Catalogus stirpium in exteris regionibus. 1673 (1673) Wing R399; ESTC R5715 378,219 735

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Communities he is obliged during his Office to reside in the City The lake of Zugh hath great variety of fish more then any other lake of Switzerland if the people there may be believed They named to us Eels Carps Perches Trouts Salmons which is very strange there being no way for them to get thither but up the Rhene and so they must have a course of above 500 miles and besides there being at Wasserfal a huge Catarract of the whole river which one would think it were impossible to pass Esch called by the Italians Temelo and in English Grayling Trisea or Trasine in English Eelpout Pikes of which we saw one taken that weighed 30 pound Weiss-fish or Alberlin called at Geneva Farra This fish is taken in the lake of Bala in Merionethshire in Wales and there called Guiniad from the whiteness of it and in Huls-water near Pereth in Cumberland and there called Schelley Hassler which I take to be the Charre of Winandermere in Westmerland and the Torgoch of Northwales Balla Nase called by Naturalists Nasus Breams Crevises and a great many sorts more to the number of at least 50. In many of the shadowy lanes we passed through about Stantz Zug and elsewhere we observed growing plentifully Aublatum Cordi or Dentaria aphyllos We travelled from Zug to Zurich which is 5 good hours riding But of that City we have already written From Zurich we rode to Mellingen a free Town not far from Baden 4 good leagues and then through a little walled Town belonging to the Bernese called Lensburgh and lodged at Arauw a considerable Town upon the river Aar subject also to the Bernese 4 short leagues We travelled a streight rode passing no considerable Town till we arrived at Soloturn 9 leagues distant from Arauw This though it be the head of a Canton is no large Town nor very considerable for its strength We diverted out of the common rode to Geneva to see Bern 6 hours distant from Soloturn This is a handsome City built all of stone though the houses be not tall It hath one fair long street with narrow portico's or Cloysters on each side It lies stretched out in length upon a hill which I may call a Peninsula it is so almost begirt about with the river On that side where it is not compassed with the river it is strongly fortified with good bastions and outworks The Founder of this City as also of Friburg in Switzerland and Friburg in Brisgoia was Berchtoldus Duke of Zerin as appears by the inscription upon their moneys To him they have erected a monument in the great Church This Church is one of the handsomest stone-fabrics in all Switzerland The territory of this City is more then on third part of the Countrey of the Suisses and is divided into 60 Praefecturae or Bailyages besides 4 which are common to them with Friburg For this reason there must needs be many rich men in the City though they have but little trade The Landtvogts or Bayliffs continue in office 6 years during which time they enrich themselves well yet do not their subjects complain but acknowledge themselves well used by their Governours Heer they keep 5 or 6 Bears in a pit These Bears I observed to climb the firr-trees growing in the pit and delighting to sit on the tops of them like birds on a perch The Arms of the Town is also a Bear which they took I suppose alluding to their name Bern And they first coyned the mony called Batzes from the figure of a bear stamped upon it which afterward all the Cantons imitated calling it also by the same name From Bern we rode to Friburg a handsome Town and the head of a Canton built upon a hill almost begirt with a river after the manner of Bern and by the same Founder on all sides environed with hills save where it is continuous to the land Their territory is surrounded with and enclosed in the territory of Bern. From Friburg we travelled through Maulton to Lausanna a great Town and an University and from Lausanna April 19. through Morges a large Town Rolle and Nion considerable Towns by the lake of Geneva's side and Verfoy a little Town on the lake near Geneva belonging to the French and came to our lodging at Geneva where we rested and sojourned near 3 months The Governments of Soloturn Bern and Friburg are much like that of Lucern In Soloturn the number of the lesser Council is 35 and of the greater 115. When one of the 35 dies the 34 remaining chuse one into his place out of the 115. When one of the 115 dies or is advanced the rest chuse one into his place out of the number of the Citizens In Bern the greater Council consists of 200 and the lesser as we were told there of 42 though Simler makes them but 26. These Councils are chosen by 20 Electors and the Sculthess viz. the four Signiferi of the City and 16 whom they pick out of the whole body of the Citizens and joyn with themselves In Friburg the lesser Council is of 24 and the greater of 200. When one of the lesser Council dies they chuse one into his place out of the greater and when one of the greater dies or is removed the lesser as I understood them chuse one into his place out of the number of the Citizens All these Cities have 2 Sculteti or Consuls who rule alternis annis He that desires a more full and particular account of the government of these Cities may consult Simler de Repub Helvetiorum Each of the Cantons have some Saint or other to be their Patron and protector whose image the popish Cantons set on the reverse of their monies v. g. S. Oswald a King of England Protector of Zug In their Church they have his reliques and have set up his image on horseback The Protestant Cantons are Zurich Bern Basel Sehafhausse part of Glaris and part of Appenzel That which most frequently breeds differences a quarrels among the Suitzers is the business of the common vogties or Bailywicks For most of these I mean the Dutch ones being of the reformed religion are oppressed and injured by the Popish Lantvogts the Protestant Cantons not knowing how either to help and relieve them or retaliate For the Popish Cantons being more in number than the Protestants they send Lantvogts to these places twice to the Protestants once This one of the Ministers of Zurich told me wad fundi sui calamitas and occasioned the two late breaches among them The Switzers on each side are very stiff in their Religion the Papists not permitting or tolerating one Protestant nor the Protestants one Papist in their proper territories Though the Cantons adhering to the Church of Rome are more in number yet the reformed are much the greater besides that their land is better very like to ours in England The Romanists are accounted the better Souldiers and
the greatest part of the Citizens are Lutherans who have five Churches The Roman Catbolics are allowed the free Exercise of their Religion and have within the City two Cloisters of Men and one of Women The Reformed had formerly a Church within the Walls afterwards that being taken from them they had one just without which being burnt down whether by Accident or Malice their Church is now a good distance from the Town The English Church used in Q. Maries days goes to decay The English House is made a Granary or Store-house The Countrey hereabout is pleasant and the Ground rich We found growing wild Gramen amoris dictum Ischaemon vulgare Portulaca sylvestris and in some Hedges Alsine baccifera which it was not my fortune in all this Voyage to meet with any where else July 17. we left Frankfurt taking the Post-Coach for Frankenthal After one half-hours riding we entred into Pine-Woods the first we met withal They reach'd almost to our Lodging this night which was at a Village called Geirsheim three German miles from Frankfurt July 18. at a little walled Town called Kernsheim we ferried over the Rhene and at six miles end came to Worms a great old City but meanly built and in a decaying condition It seems formerly to have been richer and more populous The Bishop is chosen by the Canons of the great Church being 20 in number All the Magistrates are Lutherans After we had passed Worms one hours riding brought us to Frankenthal or as we usually pronounce it Frankendale a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine situate in a Level by the Rhene more considerable for its Strength than Greatness The Houses are low built the Streets broad and streight The Wall Mounts and Out-works neatly kept in good repair The Garrison consists of five Companies whereof two are Citizens There are in it three Churches one Almagne one Low-Dutch and one French July 20. we travelled from Frankendale beside the Rhene through Oberskeim a small walled Town to Spier two miles and an half distant Spier though it hath a Bishop yet is it a free City of the Empire and governed by its own Magistrates of considerable Strength and Greatness The Houses are most old-built of Timber rather vast than handsom or convenient We could not learn that there was any considerable Trade driven here so that were it not for the Imperial Chamber which draws much Company hither we believe it would soon grow poor and infrequent enough The Romish Religion prevails most yet have the Lutherans their Church In the Cathedral Church are the Monuments of several Emperors and Bishops who lie interred there The Imperial Chamber consists of 36 Assessors and a chief President appointed by the Emperor besides whom there are other three Presidents chosen by the Emperor out of the Delegates Every Elector of the Empire and each of the ten Circles send two Delegates or Assessors There is another Chamber of like power at Vienna These Courts determine all Controversies arising between the several Princes and States of the Empire by majority of Vote The Subjects also of many of the Princes may appeal from their own Princes to this Court but it is not prudent nor safe for them so to do unless they first withdraw themselves out of their Territory Some Princes as the Count Palatine have Jus non appellandi July 21. we returned a little backwards and crossed over the Rh●ne to Manheim a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine situate just in the Angle made by the Neccar and Rhene meeting and strongly fortified The Houses in the late Wars were most of them beaten down but now they are rebuilding them apace the Prince having given the Town great Privileges to invite Strangers to come and inhabit there At the time of our being there his Highness was building a new Citadel which was like to prove a strong Piece It wanted not much then of being finished Who it was that first advanced this place to the dignity of a City and fortified it with Walls Ditches and Bulwarks this Inscription over the Gate towards the Neccar will acquaint the Reader Quod felix faxit Jehova Fredericus IIII. Elector Palatinus Rheni Dux Bavariae E veteri Paga Manhemio Ad Rheni Ni●rique confluvium Justa spatiorum dimensione Nobilem Vrbem molitus Vallo fossa muro clausit Portam bonis civibus aperuit Anno Domini MDCX. July 22. From Manheim we rode to Heidelberg just before we entred the Town passing a wooden Bridge over the Neccar covered over with a tectum as are also many of the great Bridges in Switzerland to preserve the Timber as I conceive from the injuri●s of the Weather Heidelberg though none of the greatest Cities yet is the chief of the Palatinate and for its bigness populous which is much considering the Devastations made by the late Wars in this Countrey The Houses are most of Timber yet handsom and in good repair which argues the Inhabitants to be industrious and in a thriving condition It is situate on the right bank of the River Neccar under Hills of considerable highth by reason of which it cannot be made strong though it be encompassed with a double Wall and Trench In this City are five Jurisdictions 1. Aulica under which are all the Princes or Noblemen of this Jurisdiction the Marshal of the House is President 2. Cancellaria under which are all the Councils and other Officers as Advocates Doctors of Law c. 3. Bellica or the Soldiery the General is their President 4. Academica in which the Rector magnificus presides and 5. Civica The Members of each Jurisdiction may refuse to be judged by any but their own Judge before whom the Plaintiff must implead them according to the Maxim in Law Actor sequitur forum rei The City is divided into four Quarters and governed by Praetor and Burgomasters It can raise two Companies of Foot and one of Horse The Lutherans are permitted the Exercise of their Religion here and have lately built them a Church There are also Roman Catholics who have a Church without the Walls About the middle of the ascent of the Hill called Koningsthall stands the Castle where the Prince keeps his Court a stately Pile and of great capacity encompassed with a strong Wall and a deep Trench hewn out of the Rock which upon occasion may be filled with Water Over the Gate leading into the Palace is a Dutch Inscription signifying the building of it by Ludovicus V. in the year 1519. It is not all of one Piece but since the first Foundation several Buildings have been added by several Princes One part is called the English Building Under one of the Towers stood the great Tun which almost filled a Room It held 132 Fudders a Fudder as we were informed being equal to 4 English Hogsheads The old Tun is taken in pieces and there is a new one in building by the Princes Order which is
good reason they have being more exercised in War serving the Spanish and French Kings as being of the same Religion Besides the Zurichers who anciently had the reputation for valour are now much given to merchandise and to accumulate riches and so taken off from martial studies and exercises The Bernese though they have far the greatest and best territory of all so that it 's said they can arm as many men as the Dutchy of Milan send into the field 100000 Souldiers and yet leave enough at home to till the land yet have they no reputation for Souldiers they lost their credit quite in the late skirmish with the Lucernese who account them rather Savoyards than Switzers All the Cantons of Switzerland coyn money except Appenzel Vnderwald and Glaris of which Glaris formerly hath coined though now it doth not All the Swizzers in general are very honest people king and civil to strangers One may travel their Countrey securely with a bag of gold in his hand When we came to out Inns they would be troubled if we distrusted them so far às to take our Portmanteau's into our lodging-chambers and not leave them in the common dining rooms They keep their houses very clean and polite like our good housewives in England For plants going from Zurich to Mellingen we observed common Gooseberry in the hedges and by the way-sides very plentifully and in some places Barberries Sigillum Solomonis and Herba Paris are the most common plants that grow in this Countrey in the woods and hedges every where Anonymus flore Coluteae on the mountains near Zurich From Arauw to Soloturn Helleboraster maximus out he hills sides as also Christophoriana not to mention Fumaria Bulbosa every where growing in the shady lanes Geneva is pleasantly seated at the lower end of the Lacus Lemanus now called Genffer-zee or the lake of Geneva upon a hill side respecting the lake so that from the lake you have a fair prospect of the whole Town It is divided by the river Rhodanus or Rhosne into two parts which are joyned together by two wooden bridges one of which hath on each side a row of houses after the manner of London-bridge only they are low The two principal and indeed only considerable streets in the Town are the low street Rüe bas which runs along by the river and lakes side and the high street or great street Rüe grand which runs up the hill The City is indifferently strong and they have lately been at great expences to fortific it alla moderna with ramparts and bastions of earth Though it be but small yet is it very populous being supposed to contain 30000 souls St. Peter's Church formerly the Cathedral is handsome and well-built and in it is a stately monument for the Duke of Rohan The Citizens are very busie and industrious subsisting chiefly by trading the whole territory of this Republic being not so great as some one Noblemans estate in England for extent of land All provisions of victuals are very plentiful and cheap at Geneva especially milk-meats the neighbouring mountains feeding abundance of cattel The tops of Jura Saleve and other high mountains of Savoy Daulphiny and the Alps where they are bare of wood put forth very good grass so soon as the snow is melted off them which usually is about or before mid-May And then the Countrey people drive up their cattel to pasture and feed them there for three months time Upon these hill tops they have heer and there low sheds or dairy houses which serve the men to live in and to make their butter and cheese in so long as they keep their beasts above The men I say for they only ascend up thither and do all the dairy work leaving their wives to keep house below it being too toilsome for them to clamber up such high and steep hills By reason of these cotes it is very convenient simpling upon the mountains for if a man be hungry or thirsty he may soon find relief at one of them We always found the people very kind and willing to give us such as they had viz. brown bread milk whey butter curds c. for which we could sca●ce fasten any mony uon them For the temper of the air in respect of heat and cold Geneva I think is very like England there being no great excess of either extreme The City is well governed vice discountenanced and the people either really better or at least more restrained then in other places Though they do take liberty to shoot and use other sports and exercises upon the Lords day yet most of their Ministers disallow it and preach against it Our long stay heer at Geneva and that in the proper season for simpling gave us leisure to search for and advantage of finding many species of plants in the neighbouring fields and mountains of which I shall heer present the Reader with a catalogue Such as are native of England are in the Roman letter In Colle la Bastie dicto Sylvis clivosis ad Rhodani ripas Colutea scorpioides Melissophyllon Fuchsio flore albo atque etiam vario Lilium flore nutante ferrugineo majus J. B. Monophyllon Ger. Orobus Pannonicus 1 Clus Hepaticum trifolium Lob. Frangula Chamaedrys falsa maxima c. J. B. Bellis sylvatica J. B. Trifolium purpureum majus folio spica longiore J. B. Orobus sylvaticus viciae foliis C. B. Tithymalus cyparissias J. B. Tithymalus non acris flore rubro J. B. Horminum luteum sive Colus Jovis Aquilegia vulgaris In monte Saleve dicto unâ circiter leucâ à Geneva distante Cotoneaster Gesneri J. B. Diospyros J. B. Bellis caerulea Monspeliaca Ger. Scabiosa 10 sive repens Clus Alsine muscosa quibusdam J. B. Ad rivulos propè Saleve Ageratum purpureum Dalechampii J. B. ad radices montis Sanieula Alpina guttata In summitate propè fontes Pes cati flo albo suaverubente ibid copiosissime Gentiana major Ger In pascuis propè summitatem montis abunde Gentianula quae Hippion J. B. ibid. Caalia quibusdam J. B. in sylvosis suprema montis parte Polygonatum angustifolium ibid. polygonatum floribus ex singularibus pediculis J. B. In rupibus saxosis ad latera montis Draba alba siliquosa repens juxta fontes propè montis summitatem Hesperis sylvestris latifolia flore albo parvo Park Ribes Alpinus dulcis J. B. In sylvosis summo montis cacumine Anagyris sive Laburnum In sylvosis ad latera montis Ferrum equinum Gallicum siliquis in summitate C. B. Periclymenum rectum fructu rubro Ger. Doronicum vulgare J. B. Dentaria heptaphyllos C. B. In sylvosis ad latera montis Barba capri J. B. ibid. Lilium convallium ibid. Christophoriana ibid. Lilium floribus reflexis montanum C. B. Aria Theqpharsti Melissophyllum Fuchsii Polygonatum vulgare Polemonium petraeum Gesn Colutea scorpioides Thlaspi oleraceum Tab. Fraxinus bubula Alchimilla vulgaris in