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A49620 The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson) 1670 (1670) Wing L465; ESTC R2418 265,097 737

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snow of Berlino are forced now and then as I was once to passe ouer the mountain Splug which is hill enough for any traueler From our Ladyes of Tirano I went vp a smart hill called Mount Aurigo and so makeing towards the Lake of Wallinstade I passed it ouer in boate as I did also soone after that of Isee and so fell into the territories of Brescia in Italy belonging to the state of Venice My fourth Voyage MY fourth voyage into Italy was from Lyons againe and Geneua where I now tooke the Lake on my left hand and passing along the skirts of Sauoye I came to Boueretta a little Village and so to S. Maurice the first towne in the Valetians country This towne is so called from S. Maurice the Braue Commander of the Theban Legion in the primitiue times and who was martyred here for the profession of Christian Religion together with his whole Legion Hence an Abbey was built here by Sigismond King of Burgondy and called S. Maurice Now this country is called the country of the Valesians from the perpetuall Valley in which it lyeth The people haue for their Prince the Bishop of Sion the cheif towne of the country Their Valley is aboue four dayes iourney long besides their hills which are two more Most of their little townes and Villages stand vpon hill sides leauing all the plain country for tillage and pasturage Their houses are low and darke many of them hauing no windowes and the rest very little ones Sed casa pugnaces Curios angusta tegebat As for the people here they are all Catholicks sinceare honest men of stout courage yet of innocent liues much snow quenching their lust and high mountains staueing of from them all luxe and Vanity the harbingers of Vice They haue short hair on their heads but beards in folio They are got so farre into the grande mode as to weare breeches and doublets but that 's all for otherwise their clothes looke as if they had been made by the Taylors of the old Patriarcks or as if the fashion of them had been taken out of old hangings and tapistry In fine both men and women here are great and massiue and not easily to be blowne away so that I may iustly say of this people as Cardinal Bentiuoglio sayd of the Swissers that they are good for the Alpes and the Alpes for them One thing I obserued particularly in this windy country which is that they haue many natural fooles here which makes me thinck it no vulgar errour which is commonly sayd that the climats that are most agitated with winds produce more fooles then other climats do As for their strength vpon a defensiue occasion they can assemble forty thousand men together vnder their knowne Commanders who are often times the Innkeepers in whose houses we lodge but out of their owne pit they are not to be feared haueing neither spirits nor sinnews that is neither ambition nor money to carry on a forrain warre From S. Maurice I went to Martigni a great Inn in a poore Village and from thence to Sion Sion anciently Sedunum is the cheif towne of the country and stands in the center of it Here the Bishop who is Prince resideth with his Chapter and Cathedral on one hill and his Castle stands on another hill hard by The Court of this Prince is not great because of his and his peoples quality A good Bishop hath something els to do then to be courted and good plain people must follow their trads not Courts This Prince hath no Gards because no fears and if danger should threaten him his people whose loue is his onely Arsenal haue hands enough to defend him So that the Prince and People that is the Body Politick of this state seemed to mee like the Body natural in man where the soul and the body being freinds together the soul directs the body and the body defends the Soul From Sion I went to Lucia but lodged a quarter of a mile from the towne and from thence I reached Briga at night Briga is a little Village standing at the foot of great hills where haueing rested well all night at the Colonels house the best Inn here we began the next morning to clime the hills for a breakfast For the space of three houers our horses eased vs the ascent not being so surley as we expected from so rugged a brow of hills but when wee came to the steep of the hill it self Mount Sampion one of the great Staircases of Italy we were forced to compliment our horses and go a foot It was towards the very begining of October when we passed that way and therfore found that Hill in a good humour otherwise it s froward enough Haueing in one houres time crawled vp the steep of the Hill we had two houres more rideing to the Village and Inn of Sampion where arriueing we found little meat for our great stomacks and cold comfort for all the hot stincking Stone At last haueing payd for a dinner here though we saw nothing we could eate we were the lighter in purse as well as in body to walke well that afternoone rather then that afterdinner To describe you the rough way we had between Sampion and Deuedra downe hill alwayes or fetching about hills vpon a narrow way artificially made out of the side of those hills and sometimes sticking out of them as if it had been plaistered to them were able to make my pen ake in writing it as well as my leggs in walkeing it And here I found the Prouerb false which saith that its good walking with a horse in ones hand for here we could neither ride nor lead our horses securely but either the one or the other were in danger of stumbling that is of falling fiue hundred fadome deep For here as well as in warre semel tantum peccatur a man need but stumble once for all his lifetime Yet by letting our horses go loose with the bridle on their necks and makeing a man go before each horse least they should iumble one another downe as I once saw the like done by horses in Swisserland we arriued safely at Deuedra that night You would do well also to light from horse at the going ouer all the little trembling Bridges of wood which you will finde there remembring the Italian Prouerb which saith Quando tu Vedi vn Ponte falli piu honore che iu non fai a vn Conte Haueing reposed all night in the house of the Signor Castellano we went the next morning to Domodoscela a litle garrison towne of the state of Milan troublesome enough to trauelers that passe from Milan this way and carry pistols and gunns without licence From Domodescela we passed through a fine plain country to Marguzzi a little Village standing vpon the Lake Maior anciently called Lacus Verbanus where making our bargain with our
Maria Trasteuere the first Church built in Rome sayth Baronius and built there where anciently stood the Tabernae meritoriae where the maimed soldiers receiued their pittance dayly The Guilt roof and the two rowes of marble pillars do much beautify this Church Vnder the High Altar is yet seen the place where oyle yssued out as from a Fountain a little before our Sauiours birth as denounceing his birth to be at hand who was to be called Christus that is annointed In this Church lye buryed Cardinal Hosius a most learned Trent Father and Cardinal Campegius the Popes Legate in England in Henry the VIII time You see here the stone that was tyed about the neck of S. Calixtus Pope when he was throwne into a Well Here also you see great round stones which where hung at the fee● of the Martyrs to torment them The Conuent of Franciscan Fryer● called S. Francesco in Ripa Grand● is hard by where I saw the Chamber where great S. Francis lodged when he liued in Rome It s now turned into a Chappel In the Church there is an excellent picture of Piety made by Caraccio Here in the Church is the tombe of Beata Ludouica Mathei of the the third order of S. Francis I tooke the Ripa grande in my way and saw there the boates of marchandise which come to Rome from Ligorne Giuità Vechia Naples and other places and disembark their goods here From the Ripa I went to S. Cicilies Church built where her house was and where she was put to death for the Christian religion Vnder the High Altar of this Church is the tombe of this primitiue Saint with her statue in a couchant posture and iust as her body was found in Clement the VIII time wrapt vp in vayls stayned with blood and couered with a robe of gold The neat decoration before the High Altar with the syluer lamps burning before the Tombe of this Saint was the foundation of Cardinal Sfondrati At the end of this Church as you come in are seen yet the stoues in which S. Cicily was shut vp in her owne house to be stifled but that failing she was beheaded The stoues are yet entire and shewing the manner of the ancient stoues In the Church portch I found the Tombe of one Adam an English Bishop of London and Cardinal of this tittle who dyed in Rome an 1397. it hath these verses vpon it Artibus iste pater famosus in omnibus Adam Theologus summus Cardinalisque erat Anglia cui patriam titulum dedit ista Beatae Aedes Caeciliae morsque suprema Polum Not farre from this Church stands S. Chrysogonus his Church a neat Church repayred some yeares ago by Cardinal Burghesi The four pillars of the High Altar looke as if they were of sand and cristal petrifyed together On the left hand of the wall neare the great dore lyes buryed Robert Archbishop of York and titular of this Church but this was all I could learne out of the Tombstone Hauing thus wandered ouer the Trasteuere I made towards the I le of S. Bartholomew in which stands a good Hospital and a Conuent of Franciscans in whose Church reposeth vnder the High Altar in a faire porphyrie Tombe the body of S. Bartholmew Apostle This Ile was anciently called Insula Tiberina and it was first made by the corne of Tarquinius Superbus which being after his ejection out of the City pluckt vp by the rootes and throwne into the riuer by reason of the quantity of earth that stuck to the rootes stopped here where the water was low and this stoppage once begun all the mud of the riuer came afterwards to stop here too and so in time to forme a little I le in the midst of the riuer Going out of the I le by the bridge of four heads anciently called Pons Fabricius which ioynes this I le with the City I looked downe the riuer on my right hand to see the Pons Sublicius which Cocles alone defended against an army till the bridge was cut downe behind him which he perceiuing leapt into the riuer armed and swome safe to his fellow Citizens who were as glad to see him come off safe as to finde themselues safe It was called Pons Sublicius from the word Sublica in Latin which signifies great beams of wood of which it was made it was afterwards built of stone by Aemilius From this bridge the wicked Emperor Heliogabalus was throwne into the riuer and drowned with a great stone about his neck No sooner was I ouer this bridge but I saw on my left hand the great back dore of the Jewry for here the Iews liue all together in a corner of the towne and are locked vp euery night I entred into their Synagogues here which they call their schooles where they meet vpon Saturdays and sing and pray I wondered at first that they had learned no more manners in these their schooles then to enter into them to pray without either puting of hats lifting vp eyes or bending of knees to the Great Iehoua whom they rather feare then loue Moses going to him put of this shooes and I expected that these men should at least haue put of their hatts at the entrance into their Synagogues but they are Archclownes and their fowle towels at the entrance into their Synagogues told me as much I once saw a circumcision but it was so painfull to the child that it was able to make a man heartily thank God that he is a Christian And realy If the little child could speak and wish I beleeue he would wish him selfe the greatest curse in the world and to be a woman rather then a man vpon such termes I saw also a marriage here performed with many ceremonyes Returning out of the Jewry by the same gate I entred I saw on my left hand the Pallace of Princ Sauelli its built vpon the ruines of the Theater of Marcellus built by Augustus in honour of his Nephew Marcellus it was capable of fourscore thousand men Passing on I came to an ancient Church called Santa Maria in Cosmedin or in Schola Graeca where S. Austin before his conuersion taught Rhetorick In the portch of this Church stands a great round stone cut into the face of a man with a great wide mouth commonly called La bocca della Verità The mouth of Truth but this not being affirmed by the Mouth of truth I dare not beleeue it I rather beleeue it serued in some old building for a gutter spout I know truth may speake lowd and haue a wide mouth but he that takes euery wide mouth for the mouth of Truth is much mistaken The next Church I came to was Santa Maria Egyptiaca it was the Temple of the Sun and Iupiter This Church is neatly adorned with curious chanelled pillars It belongs to the Armenians who haue an Hospital also here
taken in this battle are set round about the Church in one of the flags ouer the dore I found Crosse Keys Cardinals Caps Miters and Priests corned caps all turned topsy turuy with this single motto Extirpentor Here are very neat Chappels especially that on the left hand where is seen the representation of S. Teresa wounded by a Seraphin It s an admiraole peece of Beruini In the Conuent you see painted in a Sala the battle of Prague and in the Sacristy a sepulcher of our Sauiour all of Iuory extraordinarily well wrought Before the dore of the forsayd Church stands the great Fountaine called Fontana Felice where the Aqueduct of Sixtus Quintus who before his assumption to Ecclesiastical dignities was called in his Monastery ●ra Felice disburdeneth it self into a great stone basin and from thene is carryed into diuers parts of the towne From hence I went to the garden of Montalto which is hard by This is one of the best gardens in Rome and therefore deserues well to be seen At your entrance into it you see a round table of a blewish stone vpon which the armes of the house of Montalto are engrauen at which while you gaze curiously and neare at hand the gardiner by pressing his foot vpon a low iron pump vnder the table presseth out water on all sides of that round table and well-cometh the strangers that come to see his garden Then mounting into the little Pallace neare that dore I saw diuers good pictures and statues of the house of Montalto and others There also I saw a wooden organ pipes and all and yet of no vngreatfull sound There also I saw the picture of Dauid killing Goliath It turnes vpon a frame and shews you both the foreside of those combatans and their backsides two which other pictures do not Here are curious Vrnes the true busto of sixtus V. a tabernacle of richstones There is a pictures in stones of seueral colours which held one way represents nothing but a bunch of hearbs but held vp an other way it represents a mans head and face in fine here is in this little pallace a neat Library in a coole roome ouer the dore of which on the in side are written these words Medicina animi as if Libraries were nothing but phisick gardens for the minde Descending againe into the garden I saw store of wetting sports and water workes most curiously cōtriueed most stately walkes From hence we went to the Carthusians Church which is hard by This Church and Monastery are built vpon the ruines of the Bathes of Diocletian For this cruel Emperor with his associat Maximian condemned forty thousand Christians to worke in this building for the space of fifteen yeares together and afterwards condemned many thousands of them to death for their religion Thus men work for Tyrants But such is the wonderfull prouidence of God Churches of Christians now stand where Christians were condemned to death and torments The blood of these martyrs was but the seed of Christians and when Diocletian condemned Christians to worke here me thinks he did but bid them go lay the foundation of a Monastery for Carthusians and of a Church for the worship of that God he so much persecuted Hauing seen this Church and Monastery I went to see the Popes Graneries vast buildings two stories high and alwayes full of wheat for the present vse of the whole city A world of officers and ouerseers belong to these Graneries and are alwayes turning ouer and keeping the vast heapes of wheat from spoyling and corrupting By sticking vp canes in the heapes of wheat they can tell smelling at the ends of these canes whether the wheat begin to moisten and corrupt or no and accordingly giue order either to turne it and ayre it or presently to giue it out to the bakers These Graneries were also built vpon the ruines of Diocletians Baths From these Graneries I went to the towne Gate not farre off called Porta Pia and from thence streight along for a good mile to S. Agneses Church Vnder the high Altar reposeth the body of that tender Virgin who being as innocent as her name suffered martyrdome at thirteen and triumphed ouer the world before she could know it Close by stands the Church of S. Constantia an other holy primitiue Virgin Here I saw the famous Tombe commonly called Bacchus his Tombe but falsely seing it was the Tombe of S. Constantia It s a vast arca or Chest of one Porphyrie stone aboue half a foote thick and six foot long It s all cut on the outside with a basso rilieuo in a most admirable manner From hence crossing ouer the fields I went to Borghesis Villa and garden which are a little half mile from the towne This is the greatest Villa that 's about Rome For here you haue store of walkes both open and close fish ponds vast cages for birds thickets of trees store of fontaines a park of deere a world of fruit trees statues of all sizes banqueting places Grottas wetting sports and a stately pallace adorned with so many rare statues and pictures that their names make a booke in octauo which I referre you to As for the pallace it selfe its compassed on both sides by a fair demicircle of statues which stand before the two dores like old Penates and Lares The wall of the house is ouercrusted with a world of Anticallie or old marble peeces of antiquity as that of Curtius spurring into the Vorago that of Europa hurryed away by Iupiter becomne a Bull with a world of such like fables Entring into the house I saw diuers roomes full of curiosityes In the great hall stands the statue of Diana in Oriental Alabaster which was once à Deity adored by Augustus Caesar Here also hang two great pictures the one representing a Caualcata when the Pope goeth abroad in ceremony the other a Caualcata when the Great Turke goeth abroad in pompe 2. In an other roome stands the statue of one of the famous gladiators anciently who fought alone against twenty others and being wounded to death seems to threaten with his lookes all his beholders It s terribly well made 3. In one of the chambers aboue is the head in profile of Alexander the Great cut in marble 4. In an other roome below I saw the Statue of Seneca bleeding to death It s of a black stone like Ieat then which nothing can be blacker but the crimes of Nero the Magistricide who put this rare man his master to death 5. The statue also of Daphne and Apollo in alabaster Apollo running after Daphne and she stiffening into a tree being ouer taken her fingers shooting into branches and her toes into rootes are admirably well done It must be Berninis worke 6. The statue also of Aeneas carryeing his old Father Anchises vpon his back out of burning Troye The yong man is brawny and strong the old man is made leane and weake as also the yong