appeared sometimes on a high one that before the rest lieth nearer to the Plain some of them so that we might very well presume that there was more of them behind in Ambuscado which also proved very true For no sooner were we pass'd it but before we went up the Hill they came out from behind the Mountain in great Troops on Horse-back which immediately drew up into order in the Fields in Two Squadrons Three and Three in a Rank to the Number of about 300 almost as many as we were They exercised their Horses which were very lank very swiftly turn'd sometimes on one and then on the other hand and came at length to us within a Bows Shoot They had most of them Darts which they plaid withal in their full Speed sometimes holding it down-wards as if they would run through a Deer which was a pleasant but very dangerous Sight to us When they shewed themselves so as if they would fall upon us instantly we drew our Caravan close together in order to resist them Wherefore we stood still and tied our Beasts together and bound the Fore foot of each of them that they could not stir behind them stood our Mockeri with their Bows and all those that were not well provided with Arms and Horses either to shoot at the Enemy or else in Case of Necessity if they should come too near us to sally out and cut off their Horses with our Scymeters Near unto us our Horses were drawn up into a Troop ready for their Assault to venture their Success After a whole Hour's delay we sent at length two of our Company to them and they sent also Two of theirs to meet them to parley together But which way they made up an Agreement I know not but they prevailed so much with them that soon after they left us and rode away and we went on in our Journey After this we kept our Caravan that is so much to say as a great many People with loaden Camels Asses and Horses in far better Order than we had done before and came that same Day a good Way to a small Village where we encamped and stayed all Night We found no Wood thereabout wherefore we made shift with Bread instead of other Victuals and were very glad we had it In the mean time the Inhabitants came to us to gather the Dung of our Beasts as they do in several other Places chiefly in the Desarts of Arabia to burn it instead of Wood which they do after the following Manner They make in their Tents or Houses a Hole about a Foot and half deep wherein they put their earthen Pipkins or Pots with the Meat in them closed up so that they are in the half above the middle Three Fourth Parts thereof they lay about with Stones and the Fourth Part is left open through which they fling in their dried Dung and also sometimes small Twigs and Straws when they can have them which burn immediately and give so great a Heat that the Pot groweth so hot as if it stood in the middle of a lighted Coal-heap so that they boil their Meat with a little Fire quicker than we do ours with a great one on our Hearths so that these poor People must make very hard Shift and do sometimes as the Israelites did in the Siege of Jerusalem where they also in their greatest Necessity did boil their Meat with Dung of Men and Beasts as you may read in the 4th Chapter of Ezekiel This Night and several others before we passed more with watching than with sleeping so that sometimes we contemplated the Constellations of the Skies which are very much observed by these Nations but chiefly by the Arabians which lodge always in the open Air and have no Shelter so that by the Stars they know the Hour of the Night and when it is time for them to break up They care not for Beds but rather have Cloaks or Tapestry wherein they wrap themselves up and keep themselves warm so that no Frost nor Rain nor Dew can hurt them The next Morning we broke up that we might not expose our selves any further only after Day-light and travelled all Day long without any Molestation or Hinderance a long way after several rough Mountains and also the next Day through sandy Desarts which were deep and hindred our going on very much When it began to be Night our Beasts were almost ready to lie down under their Burthens in the Sand which was very tiresome to us and that the rather because we saw the Town Zibin far off before us at Four Miles distance but at length we got out of this bad Road into green Meadows to very clear Springs which run over in several Places to water them So that we began to make more speed and came the same Night yet very late into the Town It is a fine Place subject unto the Turkish Emperour not very big lying on Ascent very well surrounded and fortified with Walls and Ditches It is full of Conduits or Springs but chiefly in the great Camp where we rested for five Days to stay for more Company There live Abundance of Armenians in it for it lieth in the Confines of the greater Armenia and so we were no more in so great danger as we were in the Country of the Curters During my staying there the abovementioned rich Armenian Merchant and also an eminent Turkish Gentleman which were very kind to me upon the Road desired me several times having heard from the Jews that I was a Physician that I would be pleased to go along with them to Carahemit which Town was Four Days distant at the other side of the Tigris to cure some of their Relations that were not well they proffered me good Entertainment and to recommend me to the young Bashaw Son of Mahomet Bashaw which was also sick at that time and to bring me into good Business which I would have done with all my Heart and nothing could have pleased me better than to have served the Armenian for his Kindness Yet because I was sent for to come to Aleppo and could not but be as good as my Word wherein I had also no small Interest I was obliged to leave that Journey and to strive with all Speed and Diligence to get thither Now as this Bashaw is among the rest except the Visir-Bashaws whereof there are four or five which are always at Court about the Turkish Emperour as being his Privy Council the Chiefest in Turky so he hath larger and more fruitful Territories than he of Bagdet or any other to govern viz. Assyria Mesopotamia and a large part of the greater Armenia and of the Province of the Curters c. all which border upon the Dominions of the Sophi King of Persia After we had refreshed our selves during this time very well and other Companies had joined us we broke up on the 20th towards Night and went away By the way we saw several plough'd Fields
purpose I never intended it yet I hope some way or other it may be as well useful as pleasant to them and others for whosoever shall read in this my Itinerary how the glorious and strong City of Jerusalem is now ruin'd and become a heap of Stones and great Babylon laid in Ashes and other famous places in like manner destroyed and desolate the Land of Promise also changed into a barren Ground he may thence collect that the Wrath of God is a consuming Fire that he hath not only not spaâ—ed the Jews his elect and peculiar People which he chose for his Inheritance but also destroyed that once fruitful Land flowing with Milk and Honey which tho' it self did not sin yet he hath cursed with Barrenness for the Transgressions of its Inhabitants Psal 107.30 and turned the holy City into a desolation and solitude the due consideration whereof would be an effectual Motive to provoke Christians to amend their Lives and Manners for if this was done in the Green Tree the chosen People of God what will become of the Dry if once the wrath of the Lord be kindled Moreover he that by this Book is instructed in the Manners Customs Laws and Orders of the People of the East and what Tricks and Cunning they make use of in time both of Peace and War will know the better how to behave himself in all his Necessary Occasions of Traffick and Dealings with them Further this Book also teacheth a Christian how to behave himself in his Slavery if it should befal him towards his Master without any detriment to his Soul or Conscience and how by convenient means he may procure his Liberty again You may also see here how many Sects of Religions there are in these places and how there are many good and well-disposed People which are not far from the true knowledge of God and might easily be brought to embrace the Orthodox Christianity I hope also that this my Work will not be very unacceptable to Apothecaries and Physicians containing Descriptions of many useful Herbs of which I had willingly added the Cuts but was forced to forbear at present for several Reasons not needful here to be related but I hope it may be done afterwards when Time and Opportunity shall serve You will likewise find here several strange Stories both pleasant to read and which may give occasion to higher Considerations So that I am in good hopes I shall not have taken all these Pains and used this Diligence altogether in vain Now Honoured Gentlemen and Cousins to return to you Sith it hath been always used by Writers both ancient and modern to dedicate their Books to some person or other I also in compliance with this laudable Custom have thought fit to dedicate this my Itinerary to you not only because of that Relation we stand in to each other by reason of consanguinity but also to acknowledge my Obligations and declare my Gratitude for the many Favours Good-turns and Friendly Offices done me by Mr. Leonhart Christel our dear Uncle of pious Memory in whose Steps you Mr. Nicholas Bemer and Christopher Christel the Heirs as well of his Virtues as his Estate do tread when he was alive and do still at present receive of you three my Honoured Kinsmen which my well-meaning Dedication I hope you will favourably accept and own and acknowledge as your Cousin Your most humble Servant Leonhart Rauwolff THE CONTENTS PART I. Chap. I. WHich way I went first of all from Auspurg to Marseilles and from thence shipped over the Seas towards Tripoli of Syria situated in Phenicia pag. 1 Chap. II. Of the famous City of Tripoli of its fruitful Neighbourhood and great Trade and also of the splendid Baths and other magnificent Buildings to be seen there Their ways of making Rusma Pot-ashes Soap c. p. 19 Chap. III. Of the Turks of high and low Conditions Men and Women Of their Employments Offices Manners Customs Cloaths as much as I could at Tripoli during my abode understand see and learn thereof p. 35 Chap. IV. A Description of the Plants I gathered at Tripoli p. 47 Chap. V. Which way I travelled from Tripolis further to the two famous Cities of Damant and Halepo p. 57 Chap. VI. Of the Situation of the Potent City of Halepo of the Buildings thereof and also of the delicate Fruits and fine Plants that grow there within and without Gardens p. 61 Chap. VII Of the high Places and Authority of Bashaws what great Courts they keep and how they administer their Offices as also of their way of living of their Priviledges of their Manners and Conversation p. 69 Chap. VIII Of the great Trading and Dealing of the City of Halepo as also of several sorts of their Meats and Drinks of their Ceremonies and their peculiar way of sitting down at Meals p. 83 Chap. IX A short and plain Relation of Plants which I gathered during my stay at Halepo in and round about it not without great danger and trouble which I glued upon Paper very carefully p. 100 PART II. Chap. I. HOW I departed from Halepo to the famous City of Bi r and how I sailed from thence on the Euphrates to old Babylon p. 121 Chap. II. Which way we went into the Ship and sailed to Racka and how the Son of the King of Arabia with his Retinue came to our Ship to demand his Customs What else we saw by the way and what we did suffer from the Arabians and their Mendicants p. 131 Chap. III. Of the City of Racka and of its Situation and also something of the Departure of the King of Arabia and of his League with the Turkish Emperor and also of the trouble we had with the Custom-house Officer or Publican p. 146 Chap. IV. Of the Inhabitants of the Mountains and the great Wilderness we came through to Deer of their ancient Origination and miserable and laborious Livelihood p. 153 Chap. V. Of our Voyage to the famous Town Ana in which we passed again through great Sandy Wildernesses for the performance whereof we must provide our selves with Victuals and be very careful in our Navigation Some relation of the Inhabitants of their Cloaths and other things we did observe and see by the way and what else did happen unto us p. 161 Chap. VI. Which way we travelled from Ana further to Old Babylon by some ancient Towns called Hadidt Juppe Idt and saw more pleasant fruitful and well cultivated Fields on each side than before p. 169 Chap. VII Of old Babylon the Metropolis of Chaldee and its Situation and how it is still to this day after its terrible Desolation to be seen with the Tower or Turret and the old ruined walls lying in the Dust p. 174 Chap. VIII Of the Famous City of Bagdet called Baldac of its Situation strange Plants great Traffick and Merchants of several Nations that live there together with several other things I saw and did learn at my departing p. 179
Sails and departed in the Night But in going thence for Tripoli we had for the most part contrary Winds which hindred us so much that we did not arrive there until the last day of September Thanks Honour and Glory be to the Almighty God that mercifully did protect us from all Dangers and Mischiefs and bought us safely into this Harbour CHAP. II. Of the Famous City of Tripoli of its fruitful Neighbourhood and great Trade And also of the splendid Baths and other magnificent Buildings to be seen there Their ways of making Rusma Pot-Ashes Soap c. BEfore Tripoli near the Sea-shore we saw five Castles like high Towers distant from one an other about a Musquet-shot where some Janisaries are kept in Garrison to cover the Ships in the Harbour which is in some measure surrounded with Rocks and to defend that Custom-house and the several Ware-houses where you may see all sorts of Goods brought from most parts of the World from any hostile Attempt or Assault but after the Sun was set and Night began to approach we made what haste we could to the Town which was an Hours going distant from us Some Turks went with us no other ways armed but with good strong Cudgels which as I was told they commonly carry to keep off the Wolves called Jacals whereof there are a great many in these Countries that are used to run seek and pursue after their Prey in the Night While we were a talking of them some came up pretty near us but as soon as they saw us they turned and ran away When we came to the Gate of the Town we found it shut up wherefore one of our Friends that met us to make us welcom called to some French Men that were in their Inn in their Language called Fondique which is near the Gate and reacheth quite to the Wall of the Town and desired that one of them would take the Pains to go to the Sangiacho to desire him to let the Gate be opened to let us in which they were willing to do But in the mean time that we staid before the Gate another that was an Enemy to our Friend ran also away and bespoke some Turks and Moors to set upon us which they were very willing to do and came with all speed through another Gate that is never shut along the Wall to us fell unawares upon us struck at us and took hold of us chiefly at our good Friend for whose sake all this was done others drew their Scymmeters upon us so that I thought we should have been all cut to pieces While this was a doing the Gate was opened and some French Men and their Consul himself came to our assistance and spoke to these Fellows earnestly exhorting them to desist and to let the Cause be decided by the Sangiacho and Cadi which at length they did So we came after this unfriendly welcome in the Croud into their Fondique where we remained all that night The Consul was very much displeased at this considering that such like Proceedings would be very troublesome to them wherefore he made great Complaints and Enquiries until at length he found out who was the Author thereof The next Morning we went to our Friends Houses in order to stay a while with them in the mean time we walked sometimes about in our own Cloaths to see the Town which is situated in the Country of Syria called Phoenicia which reached along the Sea-shore to Berinthus Sidon Tyrus and Acon as far to the Mountain of Carmelus The Town Tripoli is pretty large full of People and of good account because of the great Deposition of Merchandizes that are brought thither daily both by Sea and Land it is situated in a pleasant Country near the promontory of the high Mountain Libanus in a great Plain toward the Sea-shore where you may see abundance of Vineyards and very fine Gardens enclosed with Hedges for the most part consisting chiefly of Rhamnus Paliurus Oxyacantha Phillyrea Lycium Balaustium Rubus and little Palm-Trees that are but low and so sprout and spread themselves In these Gardens as we came in we found all sorts of Salletting and Kitchin-herbs as Endive Lettice Ruckoli Asparagus Seleri whose tops are very good to be eaten with Salt and Pepper but chiefly that sort that cometh from Cyprus Taragon by the Inhabitants called Tarchon Cabbages Colliflowers Turneps Horse-raddishes Carrots of the greater sort of Fennel Onions Garlick c. And also Fruit as Water-melons Melons Gourds Citruls Melongena Sesamum by the Natives called Samsaim the Seeds whereof they are very much used to strow upon their Bread and more but chiefly the Colocasia which is very common there and are sold all the Year long I have also found them grow wild about Rivulets but could never see either Flowers or Seeds on them I found also without the Gardens many Dates and white Mulberry-Trees which exceed our Aspen and Nut-Trees in height very much and also Pomgranat-Trees and Siliqua which the Grecians call Xylocerata the Arabs Charnubi Also Olive and Almond-Trees and Sebesten the Fruit whereof are to be had at Apothecaries Shops by the same Name Poma Adami Matth But in great plenty there are Citrons Lemons and Oranges which are as little eaten there as Pears or Crabs here Between these Gardens run several Roads and pleasant Walks chiefly in the Summer for they afford many shady Places and Greens where you are defended from the Heat and the Sun-beams and if passing through you should have a mind to some of the Fruits you may either gather some that are fallen down or else pull them from the nearest Trees without danger and take them home with you Without at the Sea-shore near the Old Town of Tripoli which together with many more as Antiochia Laodicea c. in the Year of our Lord 1183. was so destroyed by an Earthquake that nothing but a few Marks remain there were more Spring-gardens which some of the Merchants still remember But these were a few Years agone by the violence of the Seas so destroyed and so covered with Sand that now you see nothing there but a sandy Ground like unto the Desarts of Arabia Yet at Tripoli they have no want of Water for several Rivers flow down from the Mountains and run partly through the Town and partly through the Gardens so that they want no Water neither in the Gardens nor in their Houses The New Town in it self is of no strength for it is so meanly walled in that in several places in the Night you may get in and out But within there is a Citadel situated upon an ascent near the Water where a Garrison of a few Janisaries is kept They have low Houses ill built and flat at the top as they are generally in the East for they cover their Houses with a flat Roof or a Floor so that you may walk about as far the Houses go And the Neighbours walk over the tops of their
got towards Night upon the Balls to stand Centinel it being my turn so when I saw one with a Mug full of Water I desired him to give me some to drink which he was willing to do and reached me the Mug I going to take it trod by chance upon a Fiddle of one of the Turks and broke it Although he had had great occasion to be angry with me for this yet understanding that I had Giue enough to mend it he was presently quieted and well contented The next Morning we sat together and mended the Fiddle as well as we could when the Dervis saw us busy about the Fiddle he was very angry that we did not help to spread out the Merchandices which we had done already before we began so he took the Fiddle broke it and flung it into the River then he came back and pretended to bang us thinking to have the same Success with this as he had with the Wine But the Turk seeing this took up a good Cudgel that was thrown up by the River and struck him several times over his Head and Limbs that the Blood ran down his Ears and Face and at length he grew so angry that he went to draw his Scymeter but before he could we stept in between them got them asunder mitigated the business and appeased them So this Saint of theirs looked very dismal in his long and lank black Hair and had besides on his Body here and there several Scars viz. on his Head and Breast and above all upon his Arms which he had cut or burnt himself which is usual to that Order and other Turks to do which set often on their Flesh burning and red glowing Spangs or instead of them Linen Rags about an Inch thick twisted very hard together broad below and pointed on the top tapering just like unto a Pyramid which they set on Fire and let it burn out with a great deal of Patience upon their bare Skin so long until it is quite consumed and brought to Ashes then they tie it up with Cotton they also do the same sometimes in Rheums of the Head and Eyes c. to dry them up or to turn them and to draw them into another place So I have seen several which have had at least Twenty Scars about them but chiefly on their Arms whereof-some were of the bigness of a Shilling besides Wounds and Scratches they had But from whence they received this inhumane way to wound and torment themselves I do not know except they had it anciently from the Priests of Baal which used to wound themselves with Knives and Lances as we read in the 18th Chapter of the 3d of the Kings until the Blood followed These Holy Scars and Tokens of their Zeal I could soon see and observe on this Moor for according to his Order which is a very great one he was to wear no Cloths upon his Body neither Winter nor Summer only a little Scarf to cover his Privy Members withal Instead of them they put Sheep Skins about them whereon they lie also at Night and so they serve them for Cloaths Bed and Cover And so they pretend by their exteriour Apparel and Behaviour to great Vertue and Patience as if they were dead to the World and to a peculiar Holiness in praying fasting watching c. whereas they are full of Roguery and Knavery so that you shall hardly find any like them With this came also several other Religious Men of several Orders which were all in several distinct Habits as they are in our Country among them was a very strong well set young Man of the Order of the Geomaliers as they call it which are rather Secular than Clergy-men they are generally Tschelebys that is Gentlemen and rich Persons which take great delight in travelling in their young Days under pretence of Holiness like Pilgrims at other Peoples Costs through several Countries and Kingdoms to see and learn and to get Experience This had only a blue Coat on that covered his Body tied about with a Sash and Shooes of Sheeps Skins such as the Arabians in the Desarts use to wear There went along with us Two more whereof one had a great Ring in each Ear about the thickness of a Finger and so heavy that it stretched down his ear-laps to his very Shoulders These are of the Order called the Calendriers which lead a sober and abstemious Life before People wherefore they separate themselves from the People and walk about like Hermits into Desarts where-ever they can to pray there ardently and to cry out the hours whereof they have Five every Day as the Priests do from the Steeples wherefore this Man did separate himself as often as he had an Opportunity far from us that the Beasts could rather see and hear him than we that were in the Ship When he had done this he came to us again and looked so devoutly as if he had been in a Rapture or Ecstasie The other was a Dervis whereof I have made mention before which also kept to a very strict Order for he prayed devoutly and ardently chiefly at Night after Sun set at what time two or three more used to come to him and among them sometimes some of our Merchants they did stand together in a circle and so began to pray as I heard often first very lowly then by degrees louder but when they came to the Leila Hillalla c. they were so loud that you might hear them afar of and then they repeated only these Words very often and every time they repeated them they turned their Head from one side to the other as if they looked upon one another by turns to shew their great Love one to another so they repeat these words very often and every time quicker and quicker until they abbreviate them at last and say only Lahu Huhu By this pratling or jabbering and moving of their Heads they became at length so giddy and weary that the cold Sweat ran down them But this their Saint did not pronounce the words of their Prayers with the rest but struck on his Breast with his Fist upon his Heart which gave instead thereof so strange a Tune as if he had been hallow within much like unto the Noise that a Turky-Cock uses to make when he is very angry so that it would have frighted any Man chiefly if he had been alone with him and he would with his terrible Face rather have taken him to be an Apparition than a Man These above-mentioned Words he repeateth so often and so long until he fainteth away and falls down and there he lieth as if he were dead Then the others cover him let him lie and go their ways After he hath lain thus a good while as if he had been ravished in his Prayers or had seen a peculiar Vision he cometh to himself riseth and appeareth again All these Saints although they practise their Religion after a peculiar manner which according
one may conjecture that it hath perhaps been formerly the Seat and Habitation of their Kings or Magistrates Between the New and Old City lieth a Castle which is also Old and pretty strong where is kept a Turkish Garrison it being on the Confines or Limits of Arabia and Persia c. to defend them and all the Country from Danger and Incursions The Old Town is besides this quite demolished and even with the Ground so that here is no convenient place where the Turks can exercise themselves in Running Cudgel-playing c. but this where I have often sate upon the ruined Walls and looked upon them when they were a Playing To the Desolation of this Town have very much contributed the Tartars under their King Haalono who took it in the Year of our Lord 1260 and not long after the Town and Castle of Halepo with the help of Ayton King of Armenia Some will have this to be the Town of Rhages which is also called Edessa whither the Ancient and Pious Tobias did send his Son from Nineve to his Friend Gabel to fetch the Money from him which he had lent him But because this lies a Day 's Journey further from the River Euphrates therefore it cannot be the same After we had landed there the Receiver of the Custom came on Horse-back to the shoar and desired the Master of the Turkish Ship to deliver his Arms Lances and Bows who absolutely denied it seeing that it never had been a Custom before whereupon they fell about this into such a hot Dispute that they began to draw upon one another and had not we timely put in between them it would have caused a great Tumult The reason why this Man behaved himself so strangely was because we did not go with our Goods to Carahemit which Town is distant four Days Journey and situated on the rapid River Tigris to have laid there upon that River where he would have received a great deal more Custom that also belonging to him But the Turk not mattering him having nothing in but Corn which he would not carry he let him alone and came to us as Strangers thinking to make up his Loss from us and to frighten us out of it He staid all Night in the Ship and lay between us fearing that we should hide some Goods from him and sometimes he came upon us with big Words saying Seeing that it was not allowed to us Out-landish Men to travel in these Parts therefore he could not but take us to be Spies that came to discover rather than for any thing else wherefore he had reason enough to take our Goods in Arrest and to send us two as Spies to Constantinople to make us Slaves to his Master the Great Sultan After we had heard this his unreasonable Discourse and were also sensible of his Intention to cheat us we were not presently frightned but drew out our Pass we had from the Bashaw and Cadi of Halepo and shewed it to him He looked it over and after he understood that he durst not very well act against it he went away from us with a deal of Indignation and immediately he began to quarrel with all the Merchants of the two Ships and desired of them an unreasonable Sum to pay him as Toll whereof they complained heavily but he went on and would accept of no reasonable Conditions but took away our Rowers from our Ships to hinder us from going away to squeeze us the more But the Merchants although they saw his earnestness they did not matter it but sent on the 11th of September one of them with a Moor to Carahemit to the Great Bashaw which was the Son of Mahomet Bassa to complain to him of these Impositions and Extortions When the Toll-keeper did understand this he followed them with his Son immediately But because he did not find the Bashaw which was then in another place called Giselet whither our Friend was forced to follow him three Days Journey from thence he returned again immediately Although he did not speak with the Bashaw yet he falsly told us that it was the Bashaw's Order that we should pay him Ten Ducats per cent Notwithstanding that ours did not know any thing yet they would not trust him but had carried the best and greatest Part of their Goods out before he came into the Ships to search and also some thereof they buried in the Sand by Night where the Turks and Moors went over by Day Light and yet they could find none of these hidden Goods The next morning early the Publican came with his Crue and searched every thing with a great deal of Care as if he had a peculiar Command for it but did not find any thing near as you may think what he expected When he was thus very busy in exercising his Office our Friend came in at last and told us that the Bashaw was very much displeased that the Publican did deal so unjustly with us contrary to the Orders and Law of his Master the Grand Signior and did keep us so long and hinder us in our Navigation Wherefore he had writ to the Sangiack in our behalf and ordered him on pain of Death to take all Care that we might not be detained any longer but to take the Publican Prisoner and to send him to Constantinople to have him tried at the Court kept for that purpose every 15th Day and that he feared very much that he would pay for this his Misdemeanour with his Life In the mean time we were thus detained Prisoners on the Rivers of Babylon expecting with a deal of Patience the time of our Deliverance it happened that the King of Arabia broke up with his Retinue from here-about on the 21st Day of September and travelled towards the South in great Numbers to find better Pastures for his Beasts as Horses Asses and Camels that they might the better subsist for in these Places there are not so many Villages Towns and Market-Towns where they might have their continual abode Neither do they love Farming nor Trading but are contented if they have a great Stock of Cattle and good store of Grass for them that they may keep them So if they come to a Rivolet where a little Herbage or Grass groweth they immediately erect their Tents there to stay there till want forceth them to remove and to look out for another Place When they break up they take along with them Man Maid Beasts and all their whole Substance as I did see them remove at this very time and come towards this Town in great Numbers so that the Turks kept their Gates shut up for four Days until they were all pass'd by On Horse-back they are armed with Darts and Bows c. and also if they ride on Camels whereof they have a very great Number chiefly when the King is moving from one place to another as some of them did relate to me where generally are imployed 150000. I my own self have once
one which they were forc'd to give to the Servant of the Sub-Bashaw for the Pains he had taken CHAP. VI. Which way we travelled from Ana further to Old Babylon by some ancient Towns called Hadidt Juppe Idt and saw more pleasant fruitful and well cultivated Fields on each side than before AFter the designed Storm that should have befallen me was over and I by the Power of the Almighty God delivered as it hath pleased him to do with a great many more which would be too long to relate all here we immediately departed from thence on the 15th of October A little below it we found a fruitful and well cultivated Country and some fine Houses standing here and there so near together that before we passed one we could see another which had also their Orchards and Kitchin-Gardens and round about them fine Woods of Date-Trees and many others which I could not discern because it was too far off so that we found a great Alteration and our Wilderness wherein chiefly at a Distance from the River we hardly saw a Tree in a whole day changed at the lower end of the Town into a fertile Soil Wherefore our Voyage was very pleasant to us for we had also less danger to fear from the Arabians But our Master was very much troubled because the River was often stop'd up at the Sides with great Stones that made the River swell for there was a great Number of large and high Water-Engines or Wheels therefore these Stones were laid to lead the Stream to them to make them work for it often happen'd that Two of them stood close together which took up so much of the River that we had hardly room to pass by them in the middle of the Stream wherefore he was forced to have great Care to find the right way where he might pass without Danger The Reason why these Water-Wheels are so much in Use is because this River doth not overflow as the River Nilus to water the Grounds neither doth it rain enough here sufficiently to moisten the Seeds and Garden-Plants that they be not burnt by the great Heat of the Sun wherefore they must look out for such Means as will supply this Want To do this they erect Water-Wheels whereof Three or Four stand behind one another in the River which go Night and Day and dip up Water out of the River which is emptied into peculiar Chanals that are prepared on purpose to water all the Ground But if the Places lie not conveniently or the Shore be too high to erect such Wheels they make instead of them Bridges and peculiar Engines that are turned by a Couple of Bullocks to bring the Water up with great Leathern Buckets which are wide at Top and narrow at Bottom This Land being so fruitful we soon found to our great Pleasure great Quantities of delicate Fruit sold for a small Matter of Money and among the rest chiefly Indian Musk-Melons that were very well tasted When we came further we had generally even ground at both Sides and not a few Fields the most Part whereof were sown with Indian-Millet for they sow more of this than of Wheat or Barley for the Sand is pretty deep wherein the Corn would not grow so well This Millet was just fit to be cut down and in some Places they had it in already It shoots up into a high Stalk about Six Seven or Eight Cubits high the Leaves thereof are like unto the Indian-Corn or Sugar-Reeds which I took it for at First and that because the Inhabitants did chaw it as well as the Sugar-Canes because of the sweet and pleasant Juice which is more in the upper Part of the Cane whereas that of the Sugar-Canes is more in the lower which they draw out of it untill I saw at length their white hairy Tops sprout out which are large and not unlike to the Italian-Millet These are full of whitish Grains each of which sticks between Two broad flying Leaves of the Bigness of those of the Orabus yet somewhat more compressed at the Sides Hereof they bake very well-tasted Bread and Cakes and some of them are rowled very thin and laid together like unto a Letter so that they are about Four Inches broad Six long and Two thick they are of an Ashen Colour The Inhabitants call it still at this Day by its ancient Arabian Name Dora whereof Rhases maketh mention he that will may read more of it in Authors Our Voyage went on very well wherefore the Merchants began several Pastimes some did play at a Play called the Eighteenth and others played at Chess in which Two Games they were very well versed others spent their time in Reading and Singing Among the rest there was a Merchant from Balsara that sung out of his Alcoran which was put into Rhymes in the common Arabick several times with a loud and delicate Voice so that I took great Delight in hearing him Yet they were not so hot in their Gaming or Jesting that they should therefore forget the Hour of their Prayers chiefly their Divines that were in Orders which used to call them out with a loud Voice at the usual Hour either in the Ship or without in the Desarts if they could have convenient Time and Opportunity But among the Persians I found a greater Zeal and Earnestness than among the Turks or Moors all which Nation have notwithstanding the same Ceremonies in their Prayers For as they have chiefly Five Hours of Praying whereof Three are in the Day-time viz. the First about Noon the Second about Three and the Third when the Sun begins to set the two others in the Night one in the Morning an Hour and half before the Sun riseth and the Second after Sun set when the Firmament begins to look white and the Stars to appear So the Persians would not be hindered by the Darkness of the Night Danger of the Place Inconveniency of the Time to go out when the others were asleep on the Ground in the Island where we were landed and say their Prayers with such an Earnestness and Devotion as I have often seen it that the Tears run out of their Eyes I must also needs say that they keep closer and stricter to their Laws than almost any other Nation which forbid them to drink Wine and command them to live in Poverty and to watch and pray continually The Eighteenth Day of October we came early to Hadidt a pretty large yet anciently built Town belonging to the King of Arabia which is also divided into two Towns by the River Euphrates like unto Ana whereof the greater part lieth on this Side of the River Here the Master payed for his Ship two Sayet one whereof is about Three-Pence in our Country to the Customers and so set Sail again to try whether he could reach that Night to Juppe And he did oftner than ever before speak to his Men to pull on chiefly where the River in its Breadth and Depth
to sprout we had by the way several Villages and so we had better opportunity to buy Provision The Three and Twentieth at Night we came to one where we could buy near one hundred Eggs for Two pence The next Day we got up early again and saw before us the high Mountain Tauri all covered with Snow which extendeth its self a great way from North and West to the Eastward at a great Distance We went on apace and advanced to Tauk early in good time and before their Sabbath began again This Town is not very strong and lieth on a Plain We went into a Camp without it and rested there all the Sabbath After Sun-set when it began to grow dark they desired of me to light a Candle I remembred then immediately that they could not do it themselves being forbid by Law as you may find in the 35th Chapter of Exodus where you may see that they must kindle no Fire in any of their Habitations wherefore they furnish themselves the Day before with all sorts of Provisions and Necessaries that they may not need to do any Labour on the Sabbath and yet may not want When these Jews say their Prayers they use the same Ceremonies as the Christians and Heathens in the Eastern Parts do For first they lift up their Hands then they bow down forwards with their whole Body and at last they kneel down and kiss the Ground These Jews bragg'd continually of their Patriarchs and made mention of the Laws but of the Ten Commandments they knew nothing wherefore I took an Occasion to repeat them before them in the Portugal Language which is very much spoke in the Indies as well as I could and they did admire when they heard them how I came to know them But when I began to speak of Christ and his Office they bursted out into such Blasphemies that I was glad to say no more but hold my Tongue Not far off from Tauk we saw a very strong Castle near unto a Wood that is guarded by a Turkish Garrison This is situated in the Province of the Curters which beginneth there and lieth between Media and Mesopotamia all along the River Tigris and reacheth to Armenia These Curters which are almost all Nestorians speak a peculiar Language which was unknown to my Fellow Travellers wherefore they could not speak to them in the Persian nor Turkish Language which is spoke all along from Bagdet through Assyria in the Confines of two potent Monarchs to that place We were therefore forced to desire others that understood both Languages to be our Interpreters through the Country of the Curters But whether this Language did run upon that of their Neighbours the Medians or no I could not certainly learn but yet I was informed that the Parthians Medes and Persians as peculiar Nations had their peculiar Languages as Histories tell us and we may also perfectly see in the Acts of the Apostles the 2d Chapter and the 8th Verse where it is thus written And how hear we every Man in our own Tongue wherein we were born Parthians and Medes and Elamites and the Dwellers in Mesopotamia c. all which People almost are Subject unto the Sophi the mighty King of Persia The before mentioned Curters were formerly called Carduchi and afterwards also Cardueni as chiefly Xenophon testifieth have had their peculiar Policy and Government But after many Changes and Wars they are at length subdued and brought under the Dominion of the Turkish Emperour to whom they are still subject to this Day and he hath every where his Garrisons in opposition to the Sophi But what is further to be said of them chiefly concerning their Religion shall be hereafter mentioned when I shall give you an account among other Christians of those that live in the Temple of Mount Calvaria in Jerusalem After the Sabbath of the Jews my Companions was over we went on again and came the 26th of December to Carcuck a glorious fine City lying in a Plain in a very fertile Country at four Miles distance is another that lieth on an ascent whither we also travelled my Companions having Business in both of them and so we spent two Days in them before we were ready to go on again The 29th we travelled through large and dry Heaths and came at Night to some Tents which were made of Hair or Hair-cloth wrought out of Goats and Asses Hair and fixed in such an Order that they made Streets and Allies like unto a Market-Town In one of these we went to lodge with these poor People that are white Moors and like unto the Gypsuns in their shape and figure and to stay there all night long But whether these People are subject to the Turkish Emperour or to the King of Persia or any other I could not find out by their Cloths because they all wear the same hereabout nor could I discern any thing by their Language To us came a little after some more Travellers so that we had hardly room to lie down in These People were very diligent and busy to get us some Meat and Drink for the Husband went soon out of Doors to gather dry Boughs and Stalks of Herbs which I could not at that time discern what they were and brought them to us to boil or dress some Meat with them The Woman was not idle neither but brought us Milk and Eggs to eat so that we wanted for nothing she made also some Dough for Cakes which were about a Finger thick and about the bigness of a Trencher as is usual to do in the Wildernesses and sometimes in Towns also she laid them on hot Stones and kept them a turning and at length she flung the Ashes and Embers over them and so baked them thoroughly They were very good to eat and very savory This way of baking Cakes is not new but hath been very usual among the ancients so we find in Scripture mention made of Bread baked among the Ashes the Romans called it Panes Subcineritios and so we read in Genesis the 18th Chapter of Cakes made upon the Hearth which Sarah made in haste when the three Men came to see Abraham The 30th we went from thence and about Noon we came to a Town called Presta which is chiefly towards the River whereon it lieth very well fortified but what the Inhabitants call that River I do not remember but according to its Situation it must be that which Ptolomy calleth Gorgus which runs below into the Tiger In this place they make Floats which although they are not very big nor have much Wood in them yet they have abundance of Bucks and Goats Skins blown up hung or fixt underneath the bottom without doubt by reason that they may load the more upon them and also because the River is rapid that they may have the less fear or danger On these Floats they carry several sorts of Merchandices but chiefly Fruit viz. Figs Almonds Cibebs Nuts Corn Wine Soap
it away upon a Stranger or else I have a Garden and God giveth me Flowers in it is it not reasonable that I should enjoy them rather than a Stranger c. they make use of a great many of these and the like Expressions They also keep a Yearly Feast with their Wives which then they change one with the other as they please Else they are not given to stealing killing or any such like Crimes because they want for nothing but if any be taken that hath thus transgressed he is executed immediately So they live in Peace together and care not for any other Monarch The End of the Second Part. THE THIRD PART OF Dr. Leonhart Rauwolff 's TRAVELS INTO THE Eastern Countries Wherein is chiefly Treated of the Land of Promise the City of Jerusalem and also of several Opinions Beliefs and Errors of the Turks and Christians CHAP. I. A Short Description of his Departure from Tripoli a Town of Phenicia in Syria and how he went from thence to Joppa AFter my Return to Tripoli when I found my self near to the Confines of Canaan the Land of Promise promised and given to the Israelites by the Lord of Zebaoth and considered that our long before promised Messias Lord and Saviour of the Gentiles was there according to the Prophecies of the Prophets born in Bethlehem of the Virgin Mary and by the Jews suffered the shameful Death of Crucifixion at Jerusalem on the Mount of Calvaria and afterwards was laid in the New Tomb of Joseph of Arimathea that was cut out of a Rock c. I found in me a great desire to see these and other the like holy Places Not that I thought still to find there Christ our Lord as the two young Men Peter and John and the three Maries did but to exercise my outward Senses in the Contemplation thereof that I might the more fervently consider with my inward ones his bitter Passion Death Resurrection and Ascension and to appropriate to my self and to apprehend the better and to make my own by Faith and firm Confidence Christ our Lord himself together with his Heavenly Gifts and Treasures as he has manifested himself in the Holy Scriptures wherefore I was fully resolved to look out for Fellow-Travellers to accompany me in this Journey before I returned home again I staid not long in quest of Company but quickly met with four Pilgrims that came out of the Low Countries that had the same intention there also came to us a Grecian Monk of the Order of the Carmelites whom I knew before when he lived with his Master that I cured of a very dangerous Distemper and desired to go in company with us So we agreed together and bespoke a small Turkish Vessel with eight Oars by them called Caramusala whereof there were many in the Harbour that wait constantly for Travellers Goods and Provision to be carried into the Neighbouring Towns and Provinces vix to Antiochia Caramania anciently called Cilicia Cyprus Baruthi Caramania or quite into Egypt We bought some Bisquets Cibets Eggs Cheese Pompions which the Arabians call Baticcas Margeropfel Oranges good Wine c. which we had occasion of for our Journey of which as much as would last us eight days for the Ship-Masters do not willingly land chiefly with Pilgrims because of the great Customs the Roguish Turks demand unjustly from us Christians every where until we arrive at our designed Stations After we had thus fitted our selves and got a good Wind we went aboard the Ship on the Seventh of September in the Year 1575 and put off and came before Night to the Point Capugio to the Village Aniffe anciently called Neuphrus which was in former Ages very well Fortified as still appeareth by some Remainders to this Day This Village is pretty big but every where open that one might easily take it with a handful of Men it is situated on the Foot of Mount Libanus which is very high there and reacheth unto the Sea It is chiefly inhabited by Maronites as are also many more Villages of this Mountain chiefly those that lie in Valleys towards Aleppo where I have inned many times when I went through it and was very kindly received they keep very good Wine by them which the Turks know very well and come there very often for it altho they are forbidden by the Laws of their Mahumetan Alcoran to satisfie their Desire These Maronites are Christians and speak the Arabian Language and have their Patriarchs which are first chosen by the People and then confirmed by the Pope After we had went on from thence very well all Night long all along the steep mountainous Shore and had made the utmost Point of the Promontory of Baruthi we saw in the morning a far off that famous Town lying behind it where formerly great Commerce has been drove well fortified with strong Towers towards the Sea and surrounded with fruitful Orchards and Vineyards In this and also in more adjacent Towns and Villages live a very War-like People called Trusci very nimble and expert in shooting with Guns and Bows and call themselves the posterity of the ancient French Men which took and possessed many years agon under Godfrid and Baldwin Jerusalem and all the Land of Promise They are still a Free People to this Day and not subject unto the Great Sultan as others are wherefore he hath many times attempted to bring them under his Yoak And in order thereunto he did send in the Year 1574 last past a great Army consisting of Two hundred thousand Horse and Foot to subdue them but what harm he did them I have already mentioned in the precedent part of this Journal They are very willing to accommodate and serve Outlandish Christians as Germans French Men and Italians whereof they make no Difference and to take them up into their Habitations and to shew them all Civility and Kindness nay and what is more to assist them according to their utmost Power against the Common Enemy of Christendom as we have formerly found indeed before Cyprus was taken by the Turks for after they were informed that some Italian Gallies were to arrive to make an Incursion into the adjacent Towns and Places chiefly to plunder Tripoli they raised Seven thousand Men very well armed to help them and to come to their Assistance some of which did then appear and shew themselves on the Frontiers but finding that their Gallies did not arrive they also returned home again and left their Design unaccomplished The Trusci have a Head called Ermin Macksur that is a judicious Man and a very experienced Soldier whom they acknowledge to be their Supreme Governour and are obedient to him he liveth in a Castle on the bottom of the Mountain not far from the Town we went by he taketh great pains chiefly now after the Turkish War and maketh great Provision to keep the Country in Peace and Security He also keepeth good Correspondence with the Neighbouring People chiefly the
stood Christ with his Crown of Thorns on and Pontius Pilat in the other when he said to the People Behold the Man Hard by at the other side of the Arch at the Right Hand on an Ascent they shew the Habitation of King Herod which is still very fine and gloriously built of Marble Wherefore although it is not the same which hath been burnt long agone by the Jews and afterwards Rooted out by the Romans yet it is built in the same Place where the King's Palace did stand on the height of Mount Bethzetha as Josephus Testifieth from the North over against the Temple and the Fort Antonia Where our dear Lord Christ was Mocked and Abused by Herod and his Servants and had a White Garment put upon him and so was sent back again to Pilate In these Habitations chiefly these of Pilate are still to this day Turkish Magistrates Sanchiachs Cadis and Soubashaws dwelling that keep Courts of Judicature there and therefore no body is admitted to come in before he hath Gratified the Master and Servants These Magistrates are very severe and Punish their Subjects for no great Matter either in their Body or Purse or with a certain Number of Stripes which they give with straps of rough Neats Leather upon the Soles of their Feet fewer or more in proportion to their committed Crimes more or less which sort of punishment is very common to all Eastern Countries This sort of Punishment is very Ancient and mention thereof is made in the 25th Chapt of Deuteronomy Verse 2. And it shall be if the Wicked Man be Worthy to be beaten that the Judge shall cause him to lie down and to be beaten before his Face according to his Fault by a certain Number Forty Stripes he may give him and not exceed least if he should exceed and beat him above these with many Stripes then thy Brother should seem vile unto thee So the Holy Apostle St. Paul hath received them several times whereof he maketh mention in the 2 Corinthians chap. 11. vers 23. Where he saith I am in Labours more abundant in Stripes above measure in Prisons more frequent in Deaths often Of the Jews five times Received I forty Stripes saw one When we came back from these Habitations we saw some more Remarkable Places which are usually shewn unto Pilgrims some whereof are mentioned in Scripture Viz. The Iron Gate through which the Angel of the Lord did conduct St. Peter out of Prison The Habitation of Mary the Mother of St. John where the Holy Apostle Peter did knock at the Door The Temple of St. John the Evangelist whereof the Knights of the Order of St. John call themselves and several others which are for the most part fallen down and lie in Ruins But because in these times it is uncertain in what Condition they were then I also omit to say any more of them After we had seen these two Places with their Habitations we returned back again at Night according to the appointment of the Father Guardian to go with us into the Temple of Mount Calvaria CHAP. VIII Of the Mount Calvaria and the Holy Grave of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ ON the 27th of Septemb. in the year 1575 after Dinner the Father Guardian did send to the other Lords of the Temple to let us in to the Temple of Mount Calvaria which the Turks keep always Locked up But we and some other Friers in their own Habit went with their Father Guardian to the Temple of the Mount which first of all the Pious Queen Hellen Mother of the Great Emperor Constantine after she had destroyed the Temple of Venus that was Built upon the Place of the Grave did Build as she did also build several Churches in several Places Viz. That at Bethlehem where Christ was Born That of the Holy Apostle James the greater in the Place of the Upper Town where he was Beheaded And an other on the Mount of Olives where Christ did Ascend into Heaven As also another at Bethania where Christ did Raise Lazarus his dear Friend from the Dead and in many other places at Nazareth and on the Mount Thabor c. But when afterward the City of Jerusalem was many times Besieged and at length taken from the Christians by the unbelieving Saracens Hequen that malicious King of Aegypt did in the year of Christ 1011. Demolish these Churches and so they remained until after his Decease his Son Daber came to the Government who afterwards in the year 37. did give leave to Constantine the Emperor of Constantinople when he renewed with him their Old Correspondency to Rebuild it again at his own Cost and Charges In these our times when it remaineth in the possession of the Turks free Egress and Regress is quite denied to the Christian Pilgrims that come to see the Holy Places For when they saw that many Christians came yearly thither from all Places Viz. From Armenia Aethiopia Syria Aegypt Greece Italy Nay from all Places of Europe they have put a certain Sum of Mony according as they are near or further off under his Dominions or not to be paid by them to be admitted For some pay two or three Seckins or Ducats other four and five but we that are Outlandish as Italians French-men and Germans as well knowing that we do not spare for Mony must pay Nine Seckins a piece and that without any Remission must be paid in weighty Turkish or Venetian Ducats And they keep the Temple Locked up close until every one of them have paid their due By these means the Grand Senior hath acquired himself a considerable yearly Revenue which amounts to several thousand Ducats yearly But yet it is now adays nothing near to what it hath been formerly when all was under Popish Darkness and the Pilgrims used to Flock thither in great Numbers For since in our time by the Grace of God the Holy Gospel hath been brought to Light again and began to be Preached which sheweth us a far nearer and better way to find Christ and to have true and full Pardon and Remission of our Sins so that daily more come to the knowledge of the Truth and return to the Lord his Revenues decrease as much as the Number of the Pilgrims that used to resort thither When we came pretty near to the Temple and expected to have seen Mount Calvaria the Franciscans told us that this Mount together with the holy Grave and the Garden wherein Christ did first appear unto Mary Magdalen were intirely taken into the Temple so that no heigth at all was to be seen without Just when we came into the Court of the Temple there appeared an old Heathenish Prison wherein are Prisoners kept to this day near which did stand the Prison-Gate whereof we saw still some part of the Wall up in the Wall of the Church through which Christ did carry his Cross to the place of Sculls which in former days was without the Town
upon him that he was her Brother and accordingly it proved so Whereupon acquainting the Emperor with it she immediately redeemed him from his Patron and having made the poor Wretch turn Turk got him considerably preferred The Bassa's for the most part are the Sons of Christians taken into the Seraglio near the Emperor's person and so are preferr'd to considerable Governments or else they raise themselves by their Conduct and Valour Mahomet Bassa in the time of Achmet whose eldest Daughter he married was the first natural Turk that was made chief Vizier having before been Captain Bassa The chief Vizier Mahomet Kupriuli who settled the Empire in the minority of this Emperor when it was ready to be shaken into pieces and dissolved by several powerful Factions in the State and by the Mutinies and Discontents of Janizaries and Spahi's who drove different ways was an Albanese by Birth the Son of a Greek Briest whom out of the height of his zeal for Mahomet he made turn Turk in his old age and converted the Christian Church in the Village where he was born into a Mosch This man also forbad the Dervises to dance in a ring and turn round which before was their solemn practice at set times before the People which they would do so long till they were giddy by this swift circular motion and fell down in a swoon and then oftentimes upon their recovery from such Trances they pretended to revelation The Churchmen are not very kind to his memory looking upon him as a man of little or no Religion and they give out that if he had lived he would have forbid their calling to Prayers from the Spires of their Moschs and hanging out Lamps both which they look upon as solemn and essential to the exercise of Religion but he as the effect of Bigottry and Superstitition They have a mighty honour and esteem for Physicians for though they are of opinion that they cannot with all their Art prolong Life the period and term of it being fatal and absolutely determin'd by God yet they often consult them upon any violent sickness or pain in order to make the time allotted them in this World more pleasant and easie It is extraordinary rare that a natural Turk makes Physick his profession and study They who practise it among them when I was in Turkey were for the most part Greeks and Jews who know nothing of chymical Medicines but follow the usual methods which they learnt in Italy and Spain the former having studied in Padua and the latter in Salamanca where they pass'd for good Catholicks And I remember I met with a certain Jew Physician who had been a Capucine in Portugal During the tedious Siege of Candia the Vizier what with Melancholy and what with the ill air of the Camp finding himself much indispos'd sent for a Christian Physician Signior Massalini a Subject of the Republick of Venice but married to a Greek Woman by whom he had several Children who was our Neighbour at Pera an experienc'd able man to come speedily to him and made him a Present of about a thousand Dollars in order to fit himself for the Voyage and bear the expence of it By this worthy Gentleman's care he recovered his Health and would not permit him to depart till after the surrender of that City which might be about seven months after his arrival there treating him in the mean while with all imaginable respect During our short stay at Bursia one of our Janizaries accidentally discoursing with a Turk about us whom they knew to be Franks told him that there was a Physician in the company who had been lately at the Grand Signior's Court at Saloniki with the English Ambassador and was now upon his return from Constantinople to Smyrna where he lived This presently took vent and the Turks thought that they had got a man among them that could cure all Diseases infallibly for several immediately came to find us out in behalf of themselves or their sick Friends and one of the most considerable men upon the place desired the Doctor to go to his House to visit one of his Women sick in Bed who being permitted to feel her naked Pulse for usually they throw a piece of fine Silk or Curle over their Womens Wrists at such times soon discovered by that and other symptoms and indications of her Distemper that opening a Vein would presently give her ease and recover her which he did accordingly for which he received an embroidered Handkerchief instead of a Fee and gained the reputation of having done a mighty Cure They have little of ingenious or solid Learning among them their chief study next to the Alcoran being metaphysical Niceties about the Attributes of God or else the maintenance of other odd speculative Notions and Tenents derived down to them from some of their famed Masters and Holy men whom they pretend to follow Their knowledge of the motion of the Heavens for which the Arabians and the other Eastern Nations have been so deservedly famous as their Astronomical Tables of the Longitude and Latitude of the fixed Stars and of the appulse of the Moon to them fully evince is now very mean and is chiefly studied for the use of Judiciary Astrology The great Instrument they make use of is an Astrolabe with which they make very imperfect Observations having no such thing as a Quadrant or Sextant much less a Telescope or any mechanical Engine to direct and assist them in their calculation Their Skill in Geography is as inconsiderable I remember I heard the Captain Bassa whom they stile Admiral of the black and white Seas meaning the Euxine and the Mediterranean ask this silly question Whether England were out of the Straits And at another time the Caymacan or Governour of Constantinople hearing that England was an Island desired to know how many miles it was about in order we supposed to make an Estimate of our King's greatness and strength by the extent and compass of it One of the great Astrologers of Constantinople having heard that I had a pair of Globes in my Chamber made me a visit on purpose to see their contrivance being introduced by a worthy Gentleman of our own Nation After the first Ceremonies were over I took my terrestial Globe and rectified it to the position of the place and pointed to the several circles both without and upon it and told him in short the several uses of them then shewed him how Constantinople beared from Candia at that time besieged Cair Aleppo Mecca and other chief places of the Empire with the other parts of the World at which he was mightily surprized to see the whole Earth and Sea represented in that figure and in so narrow a compass and pleased himself with turning the Globe round several times together Afterwards I set before him the celestial Globe and rectified that and shewed him how all the noted Constellations were exactly described and how they moved regularly
out their Corn with Oxen drawing a square Plank-board about a foot and half or two foot over studded with Flints and winnow it upon their Threshing-floors in the open Air the Wind blowing away the Chaff They feed their Horses with Barly and chopt Straw for I do not remember ever to have seen any Oats among them and they make but little Hay For draught of great weight in their Carts they make use of Buffalo's Camels will endure Travel four days together without Water and will eat tops of Thistles Shrubs or any kind of Boughs They are very sure footed and kneel when they are a loading and live to a considerable number of years some even to sixty The chief Furniture of their Houses are Carpets or Matts of Grand Cairo neatly wrought with Straw spread upon the Ground they having no occasion of Chairs Couches Stools or Tables their Postures within doors being different from ours They have no Hangings but their Walls are whited and set off with Painting only adorn'd with a kind of Porcelane no Beds clos'd with Curtains They Seal not with Wax but Ink at the bottom of the Paper the Emperor's Name being usually written with flourishes and in perplex'd characters Nor have they any Coats of Arms upon their Seals there being no such thing as Gentility among them Some of them notwithstanding their Zeal for Mahomet and the Religion by him establish'd retain not only a favourable and honourable Opinion of our Blessed Saviour but even place some kind of confidence in the usage of his Name or of the words of the Gospel though it may seem to be wholly in the way of Superstition Thus in their Amulets which they call Chaimaili being little bits of Paper about two or three fingers breadth roll'd up in pieces of Silk containing several short Prayers or Sentences out of the Alcoran with several Circles with other Figures they usually inscribe the holy and venerable Name of JESUS or the figure of the Cross or the first words of St. John's Gospel and the like They hang them about their Necks or place them under their Arm-pits or in their Bosom near their Hearts being the same with what the Greeks call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and especially when they go to War as a Preservative against the dangers of it and indeed against any misfortune whatsoever Some have them sow'd within their Caps and I heard of a Turk who was so superstitious herein that he always pluck'd it off and was uncover'd when he had occasion to make Water Some are such Bigots in their Religion and so furious against Christians that not only they treat them with all imaginable Scorn and Contempt but take it ill to be salam'd or saluted by them as if it were the effect of sawciness or unbecoming familiarity Their malice against the Christians makes them envy the rich Furs they line their Vests with and it is a trouble to these hypocritical Zealots to see the Franks ride upon their fine Arabian Horses The respect which they shew the Alcoran is wonderful they dare not open the Leaves of it with unwashen hands according to the advice or command written in Arabick upon the Cover Let no one touch this Book but he that is clean They kiss it and bend their Heads and touch their Eyes with it both when they open it and shut it The Janizaries when they attend upon Christian Ambassadors to their Audience seem to appear in their Bravery and in a Habit far from that of a Souldier being without either Fire-Arms or Swords which latter are not worn but in time of Service or when they are upon a march or embodied wearing a Cap made of Camels Hair with a broad flap dangling behind a gilt embroider'd Wreath running round it and an oblong piece of Brass rising up from the middle of their Porehead near a Foot with a great Club in their Hand like inferiour Officers of the Civil Government But when they are in the Camp they throw off their upper Vest and Turbants which they wear at all other usual times as troublesome and put on a Fess or red Cap which sits close to their Head and tuck up their Duliman or long Coat to their Girdle that they may be the more quick and expedite in their Charge They affect sinery and neatness in their Clothes and Shashes not so much as a spot to be seen upon them and in rainy or suspicious Weather are very careful how they go abroad without their Yamurlicks which is a kind of Coat they throw over their Heads at such times Their Pans and Dishes are for the most part of Copper but so handsomely tinn'd over that they look like Silver There are thousands of Gypsies or Zinganies in Turkey who live the same idle nasty kind of life as they do in Christendom and pretend to the same art of telling Fortunes and are lookt upon as the offscouring of Mankind It is accounted the extremest point of human misery to be a Slave to any of this sort of Cattel The Haggi or Pilgrims that have been at Mecca and Medina forbear to drink Wine most religiously out of a Perswasion that one drop would efface all the merits of that troublesome and expensive Journey and some have been possest with such a mad zeal that that they have blinded themselves after their having been blest with the sight of Mahomet's Sepulchre After Jatzah that is an hour and a half in the night throughout the whole year there is as great a silence in the Streets as at midnight The Emperor Achmet in the year 1611 having made an Order that no one should presume to be out of his House after that time which is to this day most punctually observed The Bostangi bashi who has the Command of all the Agiamoglans in the Seraglio the Topgibashi or such great Officers attended with a great Train of armed men walking the Rounds and drubbing such as they find abroad at unseasonable hours of what Nation or Quality soever except Physicians Chyrurgions and Apothecaries whom they allow at all times to visit Sick The Turkmans for so they are peculiarly called as if they were the true Descendents of the old Turks or Scythians whose wandring kind of life is described by the Poet. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Nulla domus plaustris habitant migrare per arva 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Mos atque errantes circumvectare penates have no fixt residence any where but travel with their Families and Cattel from place to place carrying their Wives and Children upon Camels they pitch their Tents usually near Rivers and Fountains for the convenience of Water and according as their Necessities require make a longer or shorter stay Their whole Estate consists in their numerous Flocks and Herds which they sell upon occasion to supply themselves with what they want at the Towns they pass by Their only concern is how to enjoy the Benefits and Blessings of Nature without the troubles and turmoils
and disquiets of Life being contented and happy in one anothers Company void of all Ambition and Envy courteous and humane to Strangers that may want their Help and Assistance kindly entertaining them with such Provision as their Folds afford I have met with some Companies of these harmless Wanderers in my Travels The Country lies open without any Enclosures and the Propriety not being vested in any one they travel through the Plains unmolested and find excellent Pasture every where The Turks till no more ground than will serve their necessities being supplied with Corn from Egypt and from Moldavia and Walachia by the way of the black Sea letting vast tracts of Ground lye waste and uncultivated so that their Sloth herein sometimes is justly punished with Dearths They have nothing to shew for their Houses and Possessions but an Hogiet or piece of Paper subscribed by the Cadi if they have acquired them by their Money or that they were their Father 's before them The Dervises generally are melancholy and place the greatest part of their Religion in Abstinence and other Severities Some cut their Flesh others vow not to speak for six or seven years or all their lives long though never so much provoked or distressed Their Garments are made of a course sort of Wool or Goats Hair they are tyed up by the Vow of their Order ever from marrying Several of this Sect in the height of their Religious Phrenzy have attempted upon the lives of the Emperors themselves at whose Government they have taken disgust as Mahomet the Second and Achmet as if such desperate attempts were fatal to Bigots in all Religions They pay a mighty Veneration to any Relick of Mahomet his Banner is still preserved in the Treasury of the Seraglio and is look'd upon as the great Security of the Empire They believe that it was sent from Heaven and conveyed into the hands of Mahomet by the Angel Gabriel as a Pledge and sign of Success and Victory in his Battels against the Christians and all other Enemies of the Musulman Faith It was sent to Candia to encourage the Souldiers to endure the fatigue of that long and tedious Siege and when it was brought thence after the surrender of that City to be deposited in its usual place the Vizier gave several Christian Slaves that row'd in the Galley that was fraught with this holy Ware their Liberty They pretend to have some Rags of Mahomet's Vest to which they ascribe great vertue In confidence of which the Emperor Achmet in the time of a great fire which raged at Constantinople when all other means failed dipt part of them in Water to be sprinkled upon the Fire to rebate the fury of it Next to the Mufti or Cadaleskires are the Mollas of which these four are the chiefest in Dignity The Molla of Galata Adrianople Aleppo Prusa and after them are reckoned these eight Stambol Ephendi Larissa Misir or Cairo Sham or Damascus Diarbekir or Mesopotamia Cutaia Sophia Philippi The Priests have no Habit peculiar to their Profession whereby they are distinguish'd from others If they are put from their Moschs for Miscarriage or Neglect of doing their Duty or if they think fit to resign and be Priests no longer they may betake themselves without any scandal to secular Employments their former Character and Quality wholly ceasing While they remain Priests they counterfeit a more than ordinary gravity in their discourse and walking and affect to wear Turbants swelling out and made up with more cross folds which was all the difference which I could observe by their Head-Attire which is various though I could not find that this was constantly and strictly observ'd In Byram time which is the great Festival of the year at which time every one looks cheerfully and merrily among other signs of mutual Respect they besprinkle one another with sweet Water They indulge to several Sports and some are mightily pleased with Swinging in the open air the ordinary sort of People especially paying only a few Aspers for the diversion The Government is perfectly arbitrary and despotical the Will and Pleasure of the Emperor having the force and power of a Law and oftentimes is above it His bare Command without any process is enough to take off the Head of any Person though never so eminent in Dignity though usually for formality and to silence the murmurings of the Souldiery and People the Sentence is confirmed by the Mufti Sometimes Bassa's who have amassed great Treasures in their Governments are cut off in their own Houses in the midst of their Retinue the Messengers of Death producing the Imperial Command usually sent in a black Purse and not a Sword drawn in their defence Others if they are obnoxious to the least Umbrage or Jealousie tho' dismist the Seraglio with all possible Demonstrations of the Grand Signior's Favour and with rich Presents in order to take possession of Places of great command in the Empire before they have got two or three days Journey from Constantinople have been overtaken and strangled In the Army Commands are given according to merit Courage and Conduct are sure to be rewarded the way lying open to the meanest Souldier to raise himself to be the Chief of his Order But other Preferments depend upon meer Chance and upon the Fancy of the Emperor whether the person be fit or no and they are as soon lost The least ill success or miscarriage proves oftentimes fatal and a more lucky man is put in his place and he succeeded by a third if unfortunate in a design though managed with never so much Prudence and Valour They admit of no hereditary Honours and have no respect to Descent or Blood except the Ottoman Family he only is great and noble whom the Emperor favours and while his Command lasts According to a Tradition that passes current amongst them a Bassa's Son by a Sultana or a Daughter or Sister of the Emperor can rise no higher than to be a Sangiacbei or Governor of some little Province much inferiour to a Bassa and under his Jurisdiction Being born of Slaves for the most part they do not pride themselves in their Birth very few among them being scarce able to give any account of their Grandfathers They have no Sirnames but are distinguished by their possessions and places of abode and enjoying by Law a liberty of having what Women they please they have little or no regard to Alliance or Kindred Their Empire owes the continuance of its Being to the severity of the Government which oftentimes takes place without regard either to Justice or Equity and to their frequent Wars which prevent all occasions of Mutiny and Faction among the Souldiers which happen frequently when unemploy'd So that tho' Ambition may put a warlike Sultan upon enlarging his Territories by new Conquests yet reason of State forces a weak and effeminate Prince such as was Ibrahim to make War for his own security Their Politicks are not owing
to Books and Study and the Examples of past-times but to Experience and the plain suggestions of Nature and common Sence They have Rules of Government which they firmly adhere to holding the Reins streight especially being cruel and inexorable to Criminals of State who never are to expect any Mercy or Pity Their Councils formerly were open and their Designs known and proclaimed before-hand as if this had been a Bravery becoming their greatness and that they scorned to steal a Conquest But they have learned since the Art of Dissimulation and can lye and swear for their Interest and seem excessive in their Caresses to the Ministers of those Countries which they intend to invade But their Preparations for arming are made with so much noise that an ordinary Jealousie is soon awakened by it to oppose them in case of an attack They seldom or never care to have War at both Extremes of the Empire at the same time and therefore they are mighty sollicitous to secure a Peace with Christendom when they intend a War upon the Persian and as much as is possible they avoid quarrelling with two Christian Princes at once being usually at league either with Poland and Muscovy when they war upon Hungary and so on the contrary dreading nothing more than a Union of the Christian Princes bordering upon them which would prove so fatal to their Empire and quickly put a Period to their Greatness for hereby they would be put upon a necessity of making a defensive War to their great loss and disadvantage and at last either be forced to beg a Peace of the Christians or run the hazard of losing all by a further prosecution of War This they are very sensible of and therefore as they take all occasion to promote Quarrels and Dissentions in Hungary and Transylvania so they greatly rejoyce when the Princes of Christendom are at War one with another This is their great time of advantage and they know that it is their true Interest to pursue it though they do not always by reason of the ill condition of their own Affairs make use of it During the Civil Wars of Germany the Bassa's and other Commanders of the Army were very importunate with the Grand Signior to make a War on that side and to enlarge his Conquests as far as Vienna no conjuncture having been ever so favourable to consummate such a design in which Solyman so unhappily miscarried They promised him an easie Victory assuring him that the Animosities of the Princes of the Empire were so heightned that there was no room left for a Reconciliation that he was but to go in the Head of an Army to take possession and that Austria would surrender at the first news of his march towards it The Emperor was not to be moved at that time by these Insinuations and plausible Discourses being continually urged he as often denyed One day when they came to renew their Advice about the German War he having given order before that several Dogs should be kept for some days without Meat commanded that they should be brought out being almost starved and Meat thrown among them whereupon they snailed and bit one another In the midst of their noise and fighting he caused a Bear to be let loose in the same Area the Dogs forgetting their Meat and leaving off their fighting ran all upon the Bear ready to prey upon them singly and at last killed him This Diversion the Emperor gave his Bassa's and left them to make the application A certain Prophecy of no small Authority runs in the minds of all the People and has gain'd great credit and belief among them that their Empire shall be ruined by a Northern Nation which has white and yellowish Hair The Interpretation is as various as their Fancy Some fix this Character on the Moscovites and the poor Greeks flatter themselves with foolish hopes that they are to be their Deliverers and to rescue them from their Slavery chiefly because they are of their Communion and owe their Conversion to the Christian Faith to the Piety and Zeal of the Grecian Bishops formerly Others look upon the Sweeds as the persons describ'd in the Prophecy whom they are most to fear The Ground and Original of his Fancy I suppose is owing to the great Opinion which they have of the Valour and Courage of that warlike Nation The great Victories of the Sweeds in Germany under Gustavus Adolphus were loudly proclaimed at Constantinople as if there were no withstanding the shock and fury of their Arms and their continued Successes confirmed the Turks in their first Belief and their Fears and their Jealousies were augmented afterwards when Charles Gustave a Prince of as heroick a Courage and as great Abilities in the Art and Management of War as the justly admired Gustavus entred Poland with his Army and carried all before him seized upon Warsaw and drove Casimire out of his Kingdom and had almost made an entire and absolute Conquest only a few places holding out This alarmed the Grand Signior and the Bassa's of the Port as if the Prophecy were then about to be fulfilled who did not care for the company of such troublesome Neighbours who might push on their Victories and joyning with the Cossacks advance their Arms further and make their Country the Seat of a War which might draw after it fatal consequences To prevent which Couriers are dispatch'd from Constantinople to Ragotski Prince of Transylvania then in concert with the Sweeds to command him to retire with his Army out of Poland as he valued the Peace and Safety of his own Country and the friendship of the Grand Signior whose Tributary he was and by whose Favour he had gain'd that Principality And the Crim-Tartars the sworn Enemies of the Poles who at that time lay heavy upon them were wrought upon by the same Motives and Reasons of State to clap up a Peace with them that being freed from these distractions they might unite their Forces the better together and make head against the Sweeds The Ambassadors of Christian Princes when they are admitted by the Grand Signior to an Audience their Presents being then of course made which are look'd upon as due not to say as an homage are dismist in few words and referred by him to his Wakil or Deputy as he usually stiles the chief Vizier and a small number of their Retinue only permitted the honour of kissing his Vest and then rudely enough sent away The Grand Signiors keep up the state of the old Asiatick Princes They do not expose themselves often to the view of the People unless when they ride in Triumph or upon some such solemn occasion when they go to the Moschs or divert themselves in the Fields either in riding or hunting they do not love to be stared upon or approached It is highly criminal to pry into their Sports such an insolent Curiosity being often punished with Death The Story is famous of Morad the Third who