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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A61855	The perillous and most unhappy voyages of John Struys Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Muscovia, Tartary, Media, Persia, East-India, Japan, and other places in Europe, Africa and Asia. Containing, I. Most accurate remarks and observations of the distinct qualities, religion, politie, customs, laws and properties of the inhabitants: II. A due description of the several cities, towns, forts, and places of trust, as to their site and strength, fortifications by nature, or art, &c. with other things worthy of note: and, III. An exact memorial of the most disastrous calamities which befell the author in those parts (viz) by ship-wrack, robberies, slavery, hunger, tortures, with other incommodities and hardships. To which are added 2 narrativs sent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the taking in of Astrachan by the Cosacs. Illustrated with divers curious plates, first designed and taken from the life by the author himself. Rendered out of Nether-dutch by John Morrison·; Reysen door Moscovien, Tartarijen, Oost-Indien. English	Struys, Jan Janszoon, d. 1694.; Morrison, John, 17th cent.; Butler, David, Captain.	1684 (1684)	Wing S6019; ESTC R216963	334,708	398

detect his Companions which he manfully endures They are brought before the Osmyn and chained Pag. 206. CHAP. XVIII The Captivs take their leavs of each other The great Orchard near Tzurbag Their Arrival at Urwan Situation of Mount Ararat An accidental meeting with some Carmelite Friars The Author insisted upon to undertake a Cure of a Rupture which with much perswasion he promises to do His ascent up the Mountain Ararat to the Hermites Cell who was his Patient which he performs in 5 days time He undertakes and cures the Rupture The Copy of an Attestation given him by the said Hermite in barbarous Latin His return down Pag. 212. CHAP. XIX The Author put in Chains again He is insisted upon to renounce the Christian Faith and become Mahometan Divers means to that end put in practise by way of Trial. The great gain of warm Baths The Author taken out of Chains He is sold to a Persian The Situation of the Caspian Sea Great Whirlpools in the Bay of Gilan A discourse about the Silk-trade A further Description of the Caspian Sea c. Pag. 218. CHAP. XX. A Description of Derbent it's Walls The Sultans Court. Very old Ruins Divers Watch-towers Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent Their Slave-market The Author sold again His Patron married with a Polish Woman and runs into Danger of his Life The Intention of his Patroness in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her Two of Mr. Struys's Companions come to Derbent How they made their escape from the Tartars The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hollanders A Device put in practise to set one of the Authors Companions at Liberty The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own Brak makes his escape Pag. 225. CHAP. XXI The great difficulty of getting Wood without Derbent The Author and his company assailed by Robbers two several times The kind nature of his Patron They travel to Scamachy The Hill Barmach The Pit of Naphta Arrival at Scamachy A Description of that City A great Earthquake at Scamachy Abundance of men misfortunatly killed The Author meets with 2 Franciscan Friars A rehearsal of some part of their Discourse their Zeal to get him out of the Service of a Mahometan Advice given him by his Patron He comes first into the Service of the Polish Ambassadour Pag. 235. CHAP. XXII The Hatred and Churlishness of the Ambassadour against the Polish Gentry A Polish Gentleman murthered in his bed The pitiful case and condition of the Polanders who were in the Retinue of the Legate The Ambassadours Greediness He indeavours to turn Mahometan The Authors intention to make his escape Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi where they do what they can for the Captivs The Ambassadors Brother goes for Ispahan where he desires to be admitted as a Mahometan but is not received William the Masters Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi A great Earth-quake Consecration of Water among the Armenian Christians A great concourse of People and remarkable Ceremonies CHAP. XXIII The Ambassadours Sister goes to Tafflis and with her the Polish Chirurgeon The Corps of an Indian burn'd with a Christian she-slave The Woman having taken in a Potion to provoke sleep is also cast into the furnace Two Men murthered at Scamachi and a tumult thereupon Strange Geremonies about the Dead The Chans son is presented with a Kolotan or Robe of Favour and one of the Kings Wives A man struck dead with staves A fearful Earth-quake The Chan also receives a Robe of Favour and a Wife Pompous Solemnities at the delivery of the same He receives the Princess New Tidings from Russia The Ambassador commanded by the King of Persia to return for Poland but makes his excuse The miserable Estate of the Polish Gentry Theft committed in the Ambassadors Palace A man tortured that was innocent The Polish Chirurgeon fortunatly married at Tafflis Another Corps of an Indian burned with a living Woman The great kindness of Hadsy Biram to the Author His bad entertainment with the Ambassador Pag. 249. CHAP. XXIV The manner of Celebrating New years day among the Persians Advice from Boynak from Derbent Fire-balls fall from the Sky Five Hundred beautiful Damosels sought up for the Scach or Sophy of Persia A quaint mean by which a Merchant saves his Daughter The Author writes to Smarna A Chieftain of the Cosaks brought into Scamachy and is compelled to carry 3 of his Companions Heads in a Bag to Ispahan where he is upon promise of detecting somthing of weight set at Liberty A Persian murthered by a drunken Georgian The murtherer executed by the Brother of the murthered Party A horrible Self-murther committed by several Persons at a Wedding A great Feast celebrated in memory of Hosseyn the 3 d Son of Ali. A terrible Earth-quake The Chans Son dies and is interred Pag. 257. CHAP. XXV News from Astrachan A Woman and Adulteress taken in the Fact A Young Gentleman caned to death by Order of the Prince and Complaint of his Father Another put to the same death One of the Authors Companions goes for Ispahan Hail-stones as big as Eggs. The Author and a Venetian entertained in an Armenian Monastery A Woman taken in Adultery for which she is surrendred up to the Will and Power of her Husband who fleas her alive nails up her Skin upon the Wall and throws her Carcase out into the street The great Jealousie of the Persians The male Children about the Court gelded The great Slave-market at Scamachy The unnatural custom of the Georgians The Ambassadour receives a Charge to depart Pag. 267. CHAP. XXVI A dreadfull Tempest Great Balls of Fire fall upon the Earth A most fearful Deluge whereby Houses Men and abundance of Cattel are carried away The Chan receivs another Robe of Favour The Offerings of the Banjans for the Fowl and Fish The Religious Exercise of the Persian Women The Author's Discourse with the Chan. The Author meets with one of the Tartars who had made him Slave He gets out of the service of the Polish Ambassador The great Bounty and kindness of his Patron Hadzi Biram and of Altine his Patroness One of his Company made free Pag. 273. CHAP. XXVII Their departure out of Scamachi The Countrey about Kasily described and the manner of living of the Inhabitants A Description of the River Araxex The Heath of Mokan whither all the Banditti and Mutinous Persons have recourse Abundance of Tortoises near Balharu The Poverty yet contented Life of the People and Inhabitants there about The Author set upon by Robbers The Carravan Assailed and Plundered A famous stone Bridge The sepulchre of Zeyde Tzeybrail Arrival at Ardebil The Situation of that Town The bitter Cold. Great and raging Whirl-winds Extraordinary good Wheat The great Toll and Duty paid for Sheep Seven and Fifty Towns within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil A Description of the City of it's Streets and of the Street of Strumpets

and put out a white Flag in token of Friendship which they observing did the like But we were greatly dismay'd when we saw a great number of men running down the Hills toward us with Bows Arrows and Darts so that we not daring to trust our selves to them concluded our safest way was to return and row back again to our Ships but they perceiving that one of them cried out Be not afraid but come boldly to land we will do you no harm we give you liberty to come ashoar Capt. Maas told us that he had been there in that Island before and that a Slave of his whom he had taught to read and write had run away from him there having taken his opportunity when the Ship was ready to set Sail and that he had heard how the Slave was come to great Advancement and by the Natives elected King So soon as we were got to land we were introducted by the King himself and his Attendants into his Pallace which was in the midst of a Sconce reasonably strong and environ'd with Palizados The House was hung with neat Mat-work and the Floors covered with the same The King presently began to inquire What for People that we were and to what place our Ship belong'd for he could see by her Colours that we did not come out of Holland The Commander made answer that we were Hollanders but were then in the service of the Duke of Genua to whom the Ships belong'd After they had exchanged a few Words together the Commander assumed the liberty to ask him Where he had learned to speak Dutch I have been quoth he formerly in East India and was at that time a Slave to one Iohn Maas a Marriner and intending for Holland we were surpriz'd with a dismal Hurricano which disabled us of our Masts and made us in such a Condition that we were forced to put in here to Calk and fit us out again but I having no great appetite ● proceed on our Voyage deserted my Master when I saw the Ship was ready to sail Well quoth the Captain was not your name Diembro Yes replies the King do you know me Why said the Captain do you not know Iohn Maas The King was hereupon in a great stupor but viewing him thorowly began to remember his Countenance and with that embraced and kissed him While they stood mute a while and staring one another earnestly on the face both stupifyed at this strange meeting the King began thankfully to acknowledge how good a Master our Commander had been to him and presented him all necessary Provision gratis but the Commander courteously declined it saying He estemed it a sufficient Favour to exchange Wares for Wares The King according to the custome of that Country presented our men the use of his Wives and Concubines who coming forth made choice of such as they would have and went aside with them This kind Tender was as freel● accepted as offered by the greatest part of our Ships-folk wh● were not very shy to enter into Conjunctions with that tawny Brood but what monstrous Complexions they afterward brought into th● world I only guess since our aboad there could not be long I may not ommit the fatal Difference and Misunderstanding of our Offi●cers among themselves occasioned upon the Decease of Capt. Joh● Benning who commanded the S. Bernard The Chief Commande● Maas together with the rest of the Officers thought fit to p● Henry Christians Master of the St Iohn Baptist in his place and Ho●man Voogt in the placc of H. Christians but Voogt did not approve● this Transposition and let the Chief Commander know that ● would not abandon his Board and Right unless he would fet● him away by force thereupon he brought up all the Guns out ● the Hold and put himself in a Posture of defence The next mo●ning by break of Day our Commander with some of the O●cers descrying that the Red Flag was put out aboard the St. B●nard were not a litle alarm'd immediately gave order that we sho● also with all possible expedition put our selves in a Fightin● posture which was don in a moment Our Commander unde●standing that Vooght had sent off a boat with intent to fetch wate● sent out the Shallop as full of men as could well stand all w● armed who row'd as hard as they could till they overtook the oth● boat which they brought back The men being come aboard t● Commander gave order to put them in Fetters till he could ha● better information about their intention with that the Comman● made as if he would lay the St. Bernard aboard closing up w● her Bow Harman Voogt seeing himself in a great Strait and for w● of men hardly in a capacity to maintain his Pretences was mu● disheartned and after he had advised the matter more fully w● himself thought good to let out the Shallop and go aboard ● Commander the men incessantly crying out Let our Captain and M● return without any molestation or by Heaven and Earth we will either sink be sunk we are resolved either to loose our own lives in his Vindication or yours an Expiation without either giving or taking Quarter Yet notwithstandi● all this their Schipper was no sooner come aboard but the Comman● gave order to bring him upō the Quarter Deck where he was made ● hand and foot and after him the first and second Mate together with the rest of the Officers were brought up and immediatly clapt into shakles The foremast men seeing themselves outwitted by the Commanders Politie began to loose their Courage and after a mature deliberation among themselves concluded it the safest way to surrender themselves and Ship to the Commander This done a Council of War was held and the Captive Officers Voogt himself only excluded were brought into the great Cabin where the Council for the time being was assembled and asked which they would rather chuse To burn with their Ship or To serve the Commander faithfully without murmuring They conceiving that there was no hopes of avoiding some severe Penalty or other which the Council perhaps had designed in case of their continuing refractory chused the latter and with one humbly begged pardon for their misdemeanours promising for the future not to be factious in any Uproar or the Occasion of Tumult Upon these Supplications the Council sat again and came to this Result That their former misbehaviour should be connived at but Voogt the Master to continue in Irons till we came again to Genua where he should be banished upon the Galleys during the term of life as a condign Punishment for his obstinate Rebellion However to prevent any mutinous consultations which might otherwise find opportunity and detard our Voyage the Ships companies were mixed and counterchanged some of our men sent aboard the St. Bernard and others from the St. Bernard in lieu of them brought over to us In the mean while we recreated our selves with the

other Castle seeing the Venetians in possession of this put out the White Flag and desired Articles of Peace which after a short Treatie of Commissioners on both sides were signed existing mostly of the same Tenure with the former Tenedos lies near the coast of Anatolia and is called Bouchadde by the Turks It is of a fertile Soil and produces plenty of Fruit but especially Grapes and has good store of Melons and other delicacies which they have also in the Winter-season And according to it's small extent not exceeding 28 English miles in circuit has abundance of Cattel It is beset with Hills towards the Sea on every side but within arable and fit for tillage The General committed it to the Trust of Seignior Loredano a Gentleman of Venice with a Garrison of 700 Italians and others Tenedos being now in possession of the Venetians we set Sail for Scalimene or Lemnos which we found about 6 Leagues distant from the other being Seated directly before the mouth of the Channel and therefore a Place in which the Turks had reposed great Confidence This Island has severall small Towns upon it as Condea Cochino Palso Castro and others beside 75 Villages and Hamlets When we came before the Place in order to lay Siege to it we found a Fort having 700 men in Garrison but the Sou-bassa hearing that Tenedos was already taken in by the Christian Armade and finding himself incapable to defend the Place by reason that all communication was cut off he desired to treat by Deputies and without ever a shot surrendred the Fort and Island upon dishonourable Conditions Lemnos or Scalimene as it is now called has Thracia on the North and the Hill Athon towards the West and as we have said lies not far from Lemnos It is no whit inferior to any Island in the Aegean-Sea for a wholsom Air and a good Soil it affoards all kind of Grain and Puls as also Almonds Oil Lactuaries and plenty of Sheep which for their Wool is no small profit to the Inhabitants and from hence comes that excellent and usefull Earth called Terra Lemnia or Terra Sigillata which is so highly prized by those that profess Physic The Inhabitants and Peasantry are Greeks which may not live in any fortified Place In this Island has been a famous Labrynth whereof the Ruins yet appear in some places The chief City thereof is called also Scalimene and is indifferent strong When the General left the Island he constituted a Governour and sent some Ships to cruse through the Archipelago and urge the payment of the Arrearages in the Tributary Places of which the Venetians were now Masters and light also upon such as were free for so unhappy are the Islands of Greece that they must pay Tribute both to the Turks and Venetians which is a great oppression to so poor a People Greece is at this day as fertile as ever but is greatly deficient of it's former Power and Wealth by the Dominion of the Turks and perpetual Wars As for the People they are very urban and good ● converse with The Customary Habit of the Merchants and Citize● is as follows They wear on their Heads a long red Cap with a fold hanging down before and affect long hair although some I have seen shorn and with a Turbant like Mahometans Their Breeches long and narrow demitted to the calf of the leg and litle red boots above their stockings Above all a Coat like the Persians but without a Girdle In stead of a Cloak they wear a Coat with long narrow sleevs hanging down to the middle of the Thighs which they seldome or never put their arms into The Peasants also wear long red Caps as the Merchants and Citizens but wide linen or Cotton Breeches like Trouzers Their Gentlewomen wear a white Silk or Cotton Sharf about their Head hanging over their back and shoulders like Nuns Their Stockings are mostly scarlet and neatly embroyded their shoes with litle handsom heels and sometimes for their more easy going with slaps Those that are of ability wear a kind of Boddice or wast-coat of cloth of Gold and above that an upper-Coat with long Silk sleeves this is girded about the middle with Ribbons Some there are also which wear a short silk Jacket or Justicore coming down to the calf of the legs their shifts hanging down 2 palms below that Being now as we already told you sent to collect Tribute the first Island we came at was Pathmos the place where the H. Apostle Iohn and the beloved Disciple of our Lord was confined or banished to and where he wrote his Revelations When we went shoar they show'd us a litle Chappel in the cleft of a Rock which as the Greeks ascertain'd to us was the very place where he saw those Heavenly Visions as also a stone which lay above his Bed This ●tone the Greeks sell and make great profit of it being stampt into powder is reputed the best Remedy that ever was known for a Quartan Ague The City Pathmos is founded upon a Hill about the middle of the Island and has within it a very fair Monastery with the Tomb of Chrysolodos the Founder thereof The Island is both Fruitful populous and well built on the Sea-side is a litle strong Sconce to defend the place against Pyracy but when they heard of the Over●row of the Turks did not in the lest oppose themselves against us ●ing overaw'd by the Cadis When we had dispatched at Pathmos we steer'd away for Samos which is an Island right over against the Gulf of Smirna to see if we could meet with any Saiks or other Turkish Shipping and according ● our expectation met with two rich Prizes laden with raw Silk and other precious Commodities After we had Sail'd to and again for 5 or 6 days we came to Samos to demand the Contributions as at other places When we were arrived in this Road our Commander ●hought good to supply us with Water and other necessaries upon which I and 19 other of our Ships-folk were sent ashoar Ten of our Company were sent up to the Village to buy Provision and Refreshments and the rest amongst whom I my self was one were to take in Water and manage the Boat But hardly had we taken in two Boat-fulls but we saw a Brigandine making toward us stow'd full of Men whereupon we concluded it was no time to dally and therefore threw our Things aboard and betook our selvs to rowing as hard as we could drive towards the Ship But the Turks having far more hands than we and consequently swifter at rowing came in between us and the Ship which lay half a Dutch League from Land We then seeing litle hopes of getting aboard wheel'd about and made towards Land but were as hotly pursued by the Turks and seeing the Brigantine within pistol-shot of us astern we jump'd over board and betook our selves to running But when

Candia about 13 Leagues distant insomuch that the Italians say Congo is a good Corps du guarde and a Lanthorn for the Christians to enter the Archipelago On the south-east side is a strong Fort built upon a proclive Rock and has but one way to enter it The nether-City is populous enough and the Inhabitants very diligent in their respective callings Here they show'd us the Foundations and Ruins of a famous Temple dedicate to the Goddes Venus in the times of Gentilism The Land is very hilly but the Valleys rich and fertile having one Well of very good Water The Inhabitants are chiefly Greeks except the Garrisons and the Governour who is always a Venetian Nobleman From Cerigo we set sail for Candia the renowned City of Crete which now is also called Candia The Island lies about 47 degr Northerly latitude and is about 200 English land-miles in length lying almost East and West It has many Creeks and abundance of fair Cities of which the most noted are Candia Canea Retimo Sitio Apicormo Chysamo Melipotamo Garahuse besides a great number of unwalled Towns which they say amount to 650 all the inferior Villages and smaller Granges excluded out of the number The whole Island has been heretofore under subjection of the Venetians but at that time when I was there the Turks were Masters of all except the City Candia it self which was then under the Venetians and a few strong Holds as appendences on the Town which they held as is universally known for a considerable time together against the Ottoman Forces The Fortifications have been and are frequently altered according to the Discretion of the respective Governours and is from the very first Foundation famous for it's admirable rare Site and natural strength It lies in a fair flat Countrey the East and North Angles fronting the Sea Upon that Angle which lies to the northward was an impregnable Fort or Castle which had not only all the Fortifications that could be thought usefull or any way advantageous for the Town but also the Sea for a further strength which encompassed it as a Mote The same Castle has not only the Command of the Haven but also the Sea on both the right and left side Between this Castle and the City was a Wall of 20 foot broad on which the Soldiers marched from the one to the other Besides this the Town was munited with divers Ramparts Bulwarks and other Fortifications without that it seemed to me at that time and since the greatest folly in the World for the Turks to spend so much Treasure and loose so many of their best Soldiery in such a long Siege and so little hopes or encouragement of taking it in although at last they are become Masters of it The Citizens are Greeks as are most of the Inhabitants throughout the whole Island but the Garrisons and Gentry Venetians besides a great Concurrency of Strangers from all parts of the Levant which make the City very populous The most eminent Buildings are the Pallace of the General that of the Bishop which for its Antiquity and magnificent work is well worth seeing the Pallaces of several Noblemen and the Churches which are 8 in number to wit St Mark St Francis St Paul St George St Mary St Catharine St Rochus and St Titus amongst which the first is the Cathedral The Greeks have also their Churches but those so mean that the best which is allowed them is much inferior to the poorest of those which the Romans reserve for their own use Besides these there is not much in the City worth Observation As to the long Siege and Storming of this City 't were needless for me to give you any account since it has been from the very beginning traced along and fully written by others The Air of Candia is temperate enough but on that side facing Affrica is something hot and rendred unwholsom by southerly Winds for which reason most of the Towns are built on that side of the Island which lies next to the Archipelago The Soil is exceeding good and all kinds of Grain and Pulse take kindly well insomuch that sometimes one piece of ground affoards two Crops in one year Yet the Inhabitants are more inclinable to the planting and cherishing of the Vine which they cultivate with all imaginable diligence that being far more profitable than the propagation of Grain and other Husbandry their Malmsey Red and white Wines being exported every where and reputed the best that Earth can produce But they have two sorts of Malevaise or Malmsey differing greatly both in tast and quality the better sort is that which grows about Retimo that they boil so soon as the Grape is ripe and are very curious in the preparation and ordering of it but that about Candia and Canea but ordinary for there they let the Grapes be rath ripe before they pluck ' em and therefore boil them not but the Wine that comes from them has a kind of slimy matter in it of which it is not to be purified Here I have seen the Wine-stocks grow thicker than any where else which is a great Argument of the excellent Soil with which this Island is blessed and besides that the vast bigness of the Bunches weighing mostly 8 or 10 pound a piece and those so delicate that after I had once tasted of these could not for some years after so much as tast the Spanish And not only Grapes but also every other fruit the Land affoards is passing good and delicate insomuch that not only the Turkish Emperour but all the Princes and Potentates near this Island have their Fruits from hence for Table use and Banquet Whole Groves and Woods I have seen several Leagues in compass having little or nothing but Trees bearing the best kinds of Fruit as Citrons Pomegranates Oranges Apricocks Figs Almonds Olives and many sorts of Apples Pears and Nuts Cypress wood is in this noble Island in greater plenty than in Cypres it self which they do not only use for Timber which gives a very amiable smell but also for Fewel The Common pasturage which the Inhabitants neither use for Grain nor the Vine is all grown over with Rosemary Thyme Camomile Abroton or Southern Wood and other Herbs which the Apothecaries use Nay the very Weeds which with us have no sent affoard here a most amiable flavour for which Candia is often called an Earthly Paradise All kind of Cattel like well especially Sheep and Goats which run together in incredible Flocks Hares Coneys Heath-hens and Partridges abound here The Woods and Hills are stored with 3 or 4 sorts of Deer and the Rivers with Fish The Honey which Candy affoards is preferred before all other in the World and that by reason of the abundance of Thyme and other choice Herbs as also the various Blossoms of Pomgranats Citrons Oranges c. and consequently Wax is a great Commodity amongst them The

there are 3 at Novogorod which bring up yearly Ten Thousand Gilders and so all others according to proportion The Imposition upon Iron Corn Salt Tar Furs and other Commodities are very considerable If so the Revenues of this Prince be Great so likewise his Court is as sumptuous and House-keeping very Royal besides the vast Charges in maintenance of the Strelitzers who are exactly and duly paid Their Laws as we have elsewhere said are very rigorous against Malefactors and quite different from other Nations The first and lightest is the Battoki which is when the Patient is to lie upon his belly then come two men one sitting down upon his Neck and the other upon his Leggs who beat him till the Judge or Officer commands them to hold up The Knutten is a Punishment of a higher degree and such as usually those that sell Brandy Metheglin or Tobacco without a special License from the Czar are punished with and is after this manner The Executioners Servant takes the patient and strips him from the middle downwards and takes him upon his back which done the Executioner with a scourge of Thongs made of a raw Elks-hide dried gives him a certain number of stripes according to a Ticket which is delivered him immediately before he takes the scourge in his hand This punishment is exceeding severe and yet not sufficient to suppress continual smuckling and selling by stealth which the more they are punish'd and threatned the more eager they are to do it The Executioner and his Office are not there so contemptible as with us for it is sometimes purchased by the most wealthy Merchants in the Land Other Crimes are punished with Chapping off a Hand or a Foot and sometimes only a Finger according to the enormity of the crime False Coiners have liquid mettal poured down their Throats and Ravishment of Virgins or as our Laws call it a Rape is expiated by gelding of the Delinquant of which if he recover well and good but it is very rare that any does CHAP. IX Celebration and Solemnity of Palm-Sunday The Departure of the Author out of Moscou to Astrachan Heads and Officers They set Sail. A heavy storm Arrival at Nisen-Novogorod Plenty of Provision at Nisen A description of the famous River Wolga Beginning of the Cerem Tartars Their Customs and Nature Their Idolatrie Ceremonies about the Dead Their Habit Polygamy c. ON the 18 th of April being Palm-Sunday was celebrated a great Feast wherein was much Triumph and Joy manifested with Arches and Pageants amongst which was our Savior his manner of riding to Ierusalem This Solemnity was performed with an infinite number of People and led by the Emperour himself in Person attended with all the Bojars and the greatest personages about Court The Patriarch sat upon a Horse apparelled all in white representing the L. Jesus Christ The Czar being supported by two Bojars led the Horse by the Bridle being richly apparreled with an Imperial Diadem upon his Head The Patriarch as was said before was arrayed with a long white Stole with a Hierarchichal Infula or Mitre upon his Head richly set with Pearls In his right Hand was a Cross of Gold set with Diamonds and precious stones with which he signed the Multitude that came thronging to him with great Reverence and Devotion He sat cross over the Horse which Horse was set out with splendid Trappings and richly Capparison'd after the manner of an Ass On each side the Patriarch went several Bishops and the Superior Clergy with white Surplices Having Thuribles The Host the Chalice the Pax Books Bells Tapours and other things used at Mass besides a great number of Flags The Way from the palace to the Crescent was all laid with Red-cloath Here it was where the Patriarch first took Horse the Horse being there tied to a pale After the Patriarch follow the Bojars bearing a huge Tree woven and wound with Silk and Ribbons as also many sorts of Fruits thereto annexed Herein sate several litle Children with Apples green Twigs and Branches After all came the Mobile strowing the way with Branches which they had in their Hands crying out Hosanna Son of David blessed is he that commeth in the name of the Lord Hosanna in the Highest c. When they were returned to the Crescent the Patriarch gave the Benediction to the Multitude and so the Procession ended In the Evening the Patriarch sent the Czar 200 Roebels for his good service in leading the Horse I also saw their Paschal Solemnities at what time they continually kiss one another at meeting saying Christ is risen with one delivering a died Egg and therefore at this time they have many Booths all over the Town where they have Eggs of all colours to sell These Ceremonies are so universally observed that none passes the street without giving and receiving of Eggs of what Condition or Degree soever they be Towards the Evening they entertain one another every one in the best manner he can as well Clergy as Laïty and now are all the Taphouses or Kabacks crouded with men where they toss off whole Bowls of Metheglin Brandy and strong Beer till they fall together by the Ears On the 4 of May we departed with a Strough from Moscou which was laden with Ammunition and provision We were 15 men in all who were sent down with this Vessel We made quick passage down the River for the next day we arrived at Colomna which is 134 English Land-miles by Water but thwart the Land about 50. This City is well fortified with a strong Wall and many Turrets It is seated upon the Mosqua having a long Wooden Bridge over that River On the 6 dito we came into the River Oka making a deep and broad stream where it unites with the Mosqua Here we saw a very fair Village called Dydenof by some Gedino and about the Evening we arrived at the Wharf where the Ship Eagle lay having the Imperial Paludiments on her Stern We were very kindly received by the Heer Cornelius Roeckhoven Coll and Mr. Lambert the Master who expressed great joy for our arrival Besides those were other Officers preferred aboard the Ship to wit Monsr Stark Lieut. Coll. 2 Captains a Chirurgeon a Jeweller an Interpreter and a Purser Their Pay was as follows The Collonel 100 Rix-dollars per Moneth The Lieutenant Collonel 30 The Captains 40 The Chirurgeon 20 The Interpreter 10 The Purser 10 Captain Butler 160 Gilders The Master of the Ship 100 The Mate 60 The Carpenter 80 Carpenters Mate 36 Foremast-men each 50 My self 57 Our whole Company consisted in 20 Dutch On the 12 we set Sail from Dydenof which was the Wharf where the Ship Eagle was built conducted by the Col. Boekhoven about 2 leagues downward The same day in the Afternoon we came to a Town called Nicholo where we found provision incredibly cheap Here I bought some Wild-fowl in the Market about as big as Wild-gees for a

his own considerations how that his Countrey in all probability would in case he continued refractory be overrun and he himself with all his Race be secluded from the Monarchy The Tartarians had 2 Generals Brethren and equall in command whereof the elder called Mendligeritz erected a Statue in Moscou to which he obliged and injoyned the Moscovians to pay certain Homages The younger called Sapgeri marched on for Casan where he had his Residence thinking that because it had formerly been a Soveraignty and that the Footssteps and Reliques of a wasted Kingdom were still apparent he might the better erect and rear a new Monarchy upon the Foundations of an old Mendligeritz the elder marched with his Army towards Rhesan well knowing that the great Power of that Province might check him upon opportunity So soon as he was set down before the Town he signified the occasion of his coming sent the Governour a Copy of the Articles signed by the Czar demands the Town and willed him to surrender But the Governour who was a Gentleman both of known Fame and Worth in regard of his rare Conduct in several Battails at the Head of an Army let him know That all the Infidels and Barbarians in the world should not deterr him so far as to transgress his Duty and Oath since he himself had no such Intelligence from his Lord the Great Duke and till he had Assurance of what the Tartarian General had advised him about concerning such Articles he would defend the Town and Cittadel The General upon this Answer sent him the Original of the prementioned Articles and so willed him to avoid Blood-shed but the Governour detained the Messengers and kept the Schaedule resolving to stand out the Siege Upon this the Tartars raised the Siege and attempted to storm the City but those within couragiously defended themselves and plai'd of their Canon together with an incessant shooting of Arrows at the Enemy that they were forced to retreat and remove the Siege to another side of the Town where some disloyal Russians had acquainted them that the place was weakest and consequently the most easy to be storm'd however finding no hopes of gaining the Town the Tartarian General sent a Herauld to urge the Governour to resign the Papers declaring himself thereupon willing to draw off his Forces which the Governour refusing the General left the Town Several Narratives were sent off to Moscou which occasioned a general Joy and incouraged the Townsmen to revolt and unanimously fall upon the Garrison who being incapable to make resistance were fain to submit and beg Quarter The Statue of Mendligeritz was also pulled down and broke to pieces in detestation of his Tyranny The Czaar immediately upon these news gathered all the Forces he could which when drawn to field amounted to 25000 Men and marched forward to Casan where he gave the Tartarians Battail and after a hot fight gain'd the Camp the Enemy retiring into the Western Provinces of Tartary shortly after the Czar died without the performance of any honorable atchievment save that during the time of his Reign But Ivan Basilowitz son to the deceased Emperour seeing the good footsteps of his Father and perceiving a sure foundation Levies a new Army and recruits the Old with well experienc'd Germans but having no trusty Person to whom he durst commit the new Army as Commander in chief he joyns the Forces himself leading marches so in the Head to Casan which City when he had besieged 8 weeks and lost many men fearing likewise that Mendligeritz might come to assist them he gave them Offers of Peace which nevertheless the Tartars would not accept expecting succour from the Field-Army Ivan Basilowitz thought it high time either to take up the Siege or to storm it on a sudden which last he resolved upon and accordingly set 70 German Pioneers at work who did the work so effectually and without discovery of the Enemy within that they had under-mined the Northeast Gate in the space of 24 Hours or less and thereupon blew it up which done the Moscovians surprized them within and made themselves Masters both of the Town and Cittadel The Townsmen obtained Quarter althoug the Great Duke had threatned the Contrary for that they had twice rebelled against the Imperial Crown and of their own accord sent succour to the Enemy when it was not in the lest urged from them The Czar being now Master of Casan fortified it with a strong Wall Towers and Bulwarks But now to our present Journal After the Deputy of Casan had throughly visited our Ship and well entertained by our Officers aboard he departed with the Metropolitan ashoar and entreated us all to come up to Casan which we did and received a reciprocal kindness from him there When we returned aboard the Mobile followed us with Music and Dancing a good part of the way On the 10 th we received a good Quantity of Lead aboard which we were to unload at Astrachan On the 13 th I got permission of the Officers to go up to Casan to buy some Biscake for my own use which I had for a mean price and having much more than I could use I sold it and got a considerable profit as well of the Officers as the Foremast men for we were to take care for our own Victualling CHAP. XI Departure from Casan The strange manner of taking Fish Cities demolished by Tamerlan The Ship run fast aground The Salt-Pans and manner of making Salt Difficult Sailing in the Wolga A New City built for defence against Robbers and Pyrates The great abundance of Liquirice about Astrachan The Land of the Calmuc-Tartars ON the 17 ditto leaving Casan we set Sail and that morning were aground 2 several times but without much difficulty got clear again On the 18 we came close to an Island called Staritzo where we anchored our Pilot went ashoar to view the said Island and coming about 3 furlongs within land found stones of the shape and bigness of Lemmons which being broken had within the similitude of a star but those not all alike in Colour for some were like Gold others like Silver and others of a Yellow and Tawny colour This Island is situated in 45 degr 31 min. being of it self about 3 Dutch Leagues in length and 2 broad On the 19 we got the Island Potenski where we came to anchor expecting that a great storm would come on Upon the 22 we sailed past the Buytma which is a branch of the famous River Lanca being about 12 Dutch Leagues from Casan This same River has it's Rise or Fountain about Chambretoky which lies to the North-east of Casan Here we met with a company of Fishermen of whom we bought some Bream which they take in great Abundance and after an od way which if time had permitted us we would have learned On the 23 we came to a very pleasant Coast where we went to ashoar and found there the Ruins of a great City

specious promises than before as That if I would become a Musulman or True Beleever he would advance me to the Dignity of a Commander in the Guards This perplexed me very much when I saw him so earnest thinking that if he could not get his will by fair means he would proceed to rigour and being absolute Lord and Soveraign as well of the Countrey as of my Person would force me to embrace the Mahometan Religion however I had already stood out so much Torture that being a litle hardned to it I feared it so much the less but gave him a short Answer to this Effect Sir All the fair promises you have already and that you may hereafter make shall not have that efficacy with me as to make me renounce my Faith for I had rather dispatch my self than to imbrace Mahometanism He hearing me say so did not for that time press me much more On the 9 th dito I continued still in Chains at what time the young Damosels that had been with me before were sent again who as they did the last time endeavoured to perswade me to turn Mahometan neither did they desist to use all manner of Allurements they could devise to entice me to ly with them for so they thought that if I had done that I must either become Turk or dy a miserable Death They further did what they could to put me in mind of my present misery and told me that I must never expect to enjoy any better than what I saw before my eies and in the conclusion of all told me that they wondred at the Folly and Vanity of the Christians who were so strictly tied to Monogamy or only to marry one Wife when as the Mahometans might have as many as they listed or thought themselves capable to maintain My Master altho he was a Prince yet thought it no dishonour to trade in Commerce but the chief thing he had which brought him up the most Revenues were the Baths which he kept having som almost in every City as well in his own Jurisdiction as in Persia and other Countreys whereof those were the most considerable at Derbent at Scamachy and at Ispahan which brought him in a vast sum of Money yearly The reason why the Baths are there in such esteem and so much frequented by persons of all Ranks and Degrees is not only their affected Cleanliness in which they surpass all others but as well thro Superstition for that after the use of their Wives they are to bath being till then reputed unclean and may not enter the Mosques and this both sexes are injoyned to upon such Cases by the Alcoran A man among them may not ly with his wife from Conception to her Delivery which is probably instituted as a Praecept in the Alchoran to make those Countreys more populous for so one Man is capable of generating many Children in one year The Baths are frequented from Break of day to the Setting of the Sun From morning till noon the Men bath and from noon till night the Women so taking it by Turns On the 10 th came my Patron to visit me and asked me how I did and if I had taken good Courage I answered him that I had no great occasion to thank him for my Welfare since he did all he could to make me miserable and contrary to that Honesty and Truth which the Turks boasted of he had shown me an odd example Withall telling him that he had little reason to chain me so fast and make my Slavery the greater when as he had promised me my Freedom upon the receipt of the Money which was paid him Upon this he seemed to be a little moved to compassion and commanded that the greater Chain should be taken off Now when I observed that my reasoning had a litle prevalency with him I pursued on in my Argument with these or the like Words Sir Is it not sufficient that I am your Slave why then must I be kept in Chains when as others have their liberty If it be so that you fear I should go from you Know this That you can not keep me longer than I list for I can at once part with my Life and take leav of this miserable Bondage which if you persist to use me so inhumanly I am resolved to do This I could perceiv wrought in him no small change for he was naturally very covetous and would have lost the price of a Slave Besides that it is a Maxim of their Law that if any person do any way murther himself the House is to be accursed and pulled down to the Ground My Patron considering what the Issue of this might be altho I had not the lest thoughts to lay violent hands upon my self he therefore to prevent the worst sold me to one Hadsy Mahomet Sala a Persian for 25 Abbas that was about 30 Shillings sterl which is but a small sum in comparison to the ordinary Market price of Argiers and other places in Barbary My new Patron spoke the Russian Tongue very well by which means we came to understand one another the better for he used me more kindly than the other and would often bid me have courage saying he would go with me to Ispahan where there were many English Dutch and other Europeans and probably those that would buy me off his hands and so set me at Liberty again which gave me no small encouragement to do my utmost to please him On the 12 dito I went with my new Master to Derbent and sailed with him several times over the Caspian Sea his principal dealing being in Crap which with several other Roots used in Dying grow there in great abundance He had also a small Bark of his own wherein he transported his own Commodities This said Vessel alwayes lay in a Bay about half a League from the City and thither his Slaves alwaies brought the Wares for about Derbent it is very rocky and unsafe for Vessels to lie at Anchor in case of Storm or tempestuous Weather But in the said Bay is very good anchorage at 6 7 and 8 Fathom Water and a clay ground with Shells The Coast from Baynak to Masanderan is altogether sandy and here and there low land where appear the Tops of the Dagestan Hills between those two Coasts it is all a long very good anchorage there being many fair Roads able to receive Ships of a greater burthen than are usually built for this Sea there are also many fair Towns built for the most part at the mouths of Rivers and have many Vessels and Shipping belonging to them as well for Traffic and Transportation of Merchandizes as for the Fishing trade for this Sea is very plentiful of Fish and brings up the King of Persia an incredible sum of Money yearly receiving from some as Toll and from others as Contribution In the Bay of Gilan are 2 great Whirl-pools for which the Persians are very fearfull in sailing from their

own Coasts to Gilan The Water in these Whirpools is hurried about with an incredible violence and makes such a noise that if the Weather be still they may be heard at 5 or 6 leagues distant It is my opinion that these are the Passages whereby this great Lake has a subterranean communication with the Euxin or som other Sea for it is well known that it receivs 84 huge Rivers besides the Wolga which is reputed the 3 d River of the World for greatness and hither do all the Floods of the Persian and Tartarian Rivers hasten as it were to their Center with an admirable celerity so that when we sailed we always made a calculation how far we would be carried off in thwarting the stream and so bore up towards the Coast as well for shortning our Course as to avoid the Whirpools where if any Vessel be brought she must inevitably perish The best and most commodious Shipping for this Sea is a Flat-bottom from 80 to a hundred Tuns Upon a time it happened that my Master and I fell into a discourse about Trading and Commerce making a paralel between their way of merchandizing and ours where among other Words I told him That If I were once again at Liberty I could make a good Advantage and did not doubt but that in a short time I should return with a Ship full of Hollands Commodities upon which he asked me If I was so rich then I answered No But if I came safe into my own countrey some or other would intrust me with a Cargo for those parts being now well acquainted with the Conveniency of the Caspian Sea My Patron hearing that thought that I might probably be som way instrumental to do him service and that night discoursed som Armenians about me who dealt in Silk upon which they desired to see me My Master having appointed them a day I went along with him where one of the most eminent asked me if I could speak Italian and if I was of Amsterdam or if I knew such a Merchant there I answered him in Italian That I was of Amsterdam but did not know the Gentleman he named yet was acquainted with several there who dealt in Silk He then entred into a discourse which was much after this manner That the only way to Trade with Holland was to bring over Lead Quicksilver Cloth Serges Says and all kinds of Low-Countrey Commodities and Manufactures which would be very marketable at Derbent Scamachy and Ardobil and might produce good profit so that all the Staple of Silk might be brought to Holland and That all Goods whatever might be more conveniently transported over the Caspian Sea and so up the Wolga bringing it down to Archangel and so for Holland which would not prove so tedious by far as to bring it over Land to Smyrna where by the way so much Danger and so many Duties were met withall and then from Smyrna to run the Hazard of the Barbary Corsairs thro the Mediterranean and the Spanish Sea besides unreasonable Duties that are imposed by the Turks which probably the Czar of Moscovia would not set so high to draw a Traffic of such importance thro his Jurisdiction c. That Gilan Scirwan and other adjacent Provinces bordering upon the Caspian Sea could deliver upwards of 50000 Bales of Silk every year Bocharen also affoards pretious Furrs and the East Countrey good plenty of Segrine-Leather Saffron Rhubarb and other precious Druggs This was the sum of all the Discourse we had for that time but not much hopes were then given me of gaining my Freedom by assisting them in a Trade to Europe The Caspian Sea may more properly be termed a Lake were it not that its Greatness and Saltness gave it the name of the latter for it is environed on every side with the Main Continent and receives 85 great Rivers as has been said before which nevertheless do not make it swell any higher upon extraordinary Rains and Tempest which the more confirms what I have already mentioned about the two famous Whirlpools What concerns the Breadth and Greatness of the Caspian Sea as also its ' Scituation Bays Rivers Creeks Islands Towns and their distance of Bearing they are sufficiently noted in the Card hereto annexed which I have with great diligence composed partly by my own experience and partly by the help of some Armenian Marriners who were well acquainted herewith It s length which is reckoned from Wolga to Astrabath North and South is computed to be 129 Leagues and from Tarku to the River Jemla which is accounted the Breadth being East and West is about 60 Leagues For 6 7 8 and 9 Leagues from the Coast the Water is somtime fresh and somtime brakkish and from 12 to 50 fathom Anchor ground but the Sea is within fresh and out of sounding It is also called the Hyrcan and the Salt Sea It has many Boughts Inlets Creeks and Angles the Bay of Gilan tends above 38 Leagues inwards taking its beginning at the Cape of Scabaran and reaches to Sengar Hasam This Sea is environed mostly on the East and North with a sandy and barren ground having also many Quarries of Marble and Alabastre On the East side of this Sea is a Noble River not much inferior to the Wolga which river parts the Calmuc-from the Gwin-Tartars but the Countrey on each side being inhabited with a wild People using among themselvs no kind of Traffic and therefore unsafe for others to adventure themselvs My Master Mahomet Sala once sailing past the mouth of this River I pressed him hard to sail up to view the Conveniency and take an account of the Quality of the Countrey But he told me he had a greater esteem for his Life Ship and Goods than to satisfy my curiosity about a busine● of so mean importance This Sea affoards great plenty of all kinds of Fish and is farmed of the King of Persia from April to September for a vast sum of Money and that for a certain Distance from the Coast which is set off with Stakes within which bounds none are to fish upon pain of Death but without every one has the permission to fish yet without Fish is very rare except in some litle Shoals here and there and those only at some Seasons which are uncertain After the Farm is expired it is also free within the Stakes for every one to fish Here is an incredible plenty of Salmon as also Carps Breams Sturgeon and other Fish held with us in great esteem and those in general both larger and fatter than those taken on the Coast of Holland or any other Sea or Water in Europe that I know Carps when come to their full growth are sometimes above 4 foot long but those are not so delicate as when they are less Here also many strange Fishes by us unknown and I beleev most of them proper only to this Sea Amongst those strange kinds is one which by reason of the disproportion of

and could very well see into my neighbours Court or Garden where his Wives walked and played together being undrest The man saw me several times and I him but he not knowing how to prevent it went and told my Master that I hurled Stones among his Wives which was not true for considering what circumstances I was under and sensible of the Condition of a Slave in those Places it had been a Token of the greatest imprudence in the World to hazard my self so far as to offend such men who were both void of Reason and had my Life in their hands My Master told him he did not beleev that I would do any such thing Well replies the other take your Slave away or I shall bring him down for you Upon this my Patron warned me to take heed of looking down any more not knowing what might come of it I was very curious to know what course the Infidel would take in hand to fetch me down and accordingly went down to the old Place where I saw several long Hand-guns ready levelled and cock'd laying out at the Window which made me in all hast to turn about and out of the way but was no sooner turned before I heard him fire althô it did not the mischief he hoped and expected The Inhabitants as was said before are in this place somthing currish-natured but the Persians in general do not use their Slaves so unkindly as the Turks which I could well observ the time I was on the Galleys nor yet so inhumanly as they do at Argiers Tripoli Tunis Salee and other maritim Towns in Barbary according to the universal report given by those that fall into the hand of these cruel Men for here when they do use them so hard it is more to make them renounce their Faith and become Mahometans than innate Cruelty Most proud they are and lofty boasting in their honorable descent and Pedigrees from their ancient Nobility famous in History and renowned from the Monarchy of the Medes The Soldiery which they call Kissil-basschen are very unruly and take the lest word that one can speak for an affront yea such is the aw they have gained of the People that they dare not speak without great reverence sure I am they have taught me silence since they are accustomed to be the Interpreters of other Mens Words and are as apt to misconstrue what is said whence consequently they fall to blows On the 30 th of Iuly my Patron brought me again to Market where he sold me to one Hadzi Biram Ali A very rich Merchant in Jewels The same Hadzi Biram had 9 Wives 5 at Derbent and 4 at Scamachy The Chief of these 9 was a Polish Gentlewoman by birth and a Christian but her Father was an Amsterdammer by name Iohn Flusius who had a Command of Horse under Casimire K. of Poland and married there a Gentlewoman of that Countrey by whom he had 4 Children Upon a time when these People lived in the Countrey it happened that the Tartars made an irruption into Poland and among many others carried away my said Patronesse being then a Damosel of 12 years old and sold her for a Slave She was a Gentlewoman of a very fair complexion and a well proportioned Body at that time for which reason alone I suppose my Patron bought her and made her his Wife promoting her shortly after above the rest It was my Masters custom to bath himself once a day in the Sea which the Inhabitants of those Parts do account very wholsom and his custom was alwaies to take me with him to hold his Horse till he had don It happened that one time he went a litle farther in than was usual and lighting accidentally in a Whirl-pool he was forcibly overturn'd and not able to recover himself I seeing him then immerge made all the hast I could to get him out and coming to the Place could not get a sight of him for it was as I supposed in a Quicksand but at last by accident I felt his head with my Foot which I endeavored to take hold of with my hand and at last got him out brought him to the Land and lay him over a Stone till abundance of water came gushing out of his Mouth but no appearance of Life was left in him when I thought he was rid of the most part of the Water I set him upon the Horse and got up my self behind him in the mean while he continued bleeding at the Nose and Ears and so weak that I had much ado to hold him upright upon the Horse After he came home he was put to bed which he kept for 14 days together before he recovered his Strength It was no small cause of Joy to me that things fell so well out as that he lived to declare the true cause of this dismal accident whereas if he had died 't would certainly have cost me my Life among those bruitish furious and unreasonable People especially in consideration of of the Condition I was in not only a Stranger both to their Religion and Manners as well as their Countrey and Persons but likewise a Slave for whose Death and Slaughter a man is no more accountable than for the slender Value and Market price whilst on the contrary it fell out that I got the Credit of saving his Life and his Benevolence ever after for an act of such merit having run the jeopardy of my own Person So much kindness he professed for me that he promised to take me with him to Ispahan where he said he would bestow me upon some of my own Nation This Motion liked me exceeding well but my chief Patroness who spoke very good Low-dutch advised me to the Contrary saying My Husband your Lord 't is true goes for Ispahan but from thence he intends to go on a Pilgrimage to Meccha and bestow 200000 Gil. on the Sepulchre of Mahomet for which Gift he and his Son Hadzy Kan will be canonized and registred among the Saints for a perpetual memory of themselvs and Honor of their Posterity and now you are not sensible what Danger hangs over your head in regard of your Religion This said she told me if I would vow Silence she would impart me a Secret which perhaps would be of more importance than that and without doubt I should judge it more worthy of Acceptance I promised her I would not detect her Council be what it would but for accepting it desired her not to injoyn me till I had heard and well considered of it To this she replies See if you can prevail with your Patron to excuse you on this Journey or if you can counterfeit with Dexterity feign your self sick To which if he gives his assent we will trip off together after he has been a few weeks upon his Journey and being you are well acquainted with the Caspian Sea we will take our Bark with us I have means enough to Maintain us in any part of

bought them for the value of 100 Crowns These he kept for Warming Pans and would upon Occasion when he made any Feast cause them to dance nor did they much seem to be concern'd at the loss of those heavy burthens called Maidenheads althô the Art is to know where they first got rid of 'em CHAP. XXII The Hatred and Churlishness of the Ambassadour against the Polish Gentry A Polish Gentleman murthered in his bed The pitiful case and condition of the Polanders who were in the Retinue of the Legate The Ambassadours Greediness He indeavours to turn Mahometan The Authors intention to make his escape Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi where they do what they can for the Captivs The Ambassadors Brother goes for Ispahan where he desires to be admitted as a Mahometan but is not received William the Masters Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi A great Earth-quake Consecration of Water among the Armenian Christians A great concourse of People and remarkable Ceremonies ON the 2 of November came the Sister of the Ambassador and his Brother with a great Retinue and Pomp their Reception was with an Extravagant Banquet which dured several days So long as this Junketting lasted was such Gluttony Drunkness and Prodigality yea such beastliness shown that I almost abhorred the name of a Christian when on the other side I saw the Mahometans point at them who are themselvs very abstemious and temperate Yet this only was to gratify the Georgians and Persians for he demeaned himself very churlishly towards the Polish Gentry who were sent to grace his Person as a Retinue Scarce were they ever admitted into his presence and besides that pinched in their allowance as well in Diet as Habit and at last having spent the Money they brought with them out of Poland were reduced to such poverty that they went up and down like Beggars being ashamed to com into honest Company for besides their costly Attire which he always kept locked up he would not allow them a sufficiency of Linnen to keep them clean If any offered to complain he threatned to sell them for Slaves which tended to the great detriment of those his Domestics and Dishonour of the King and Crown of Poland This bred in the Polish Gentry such dissaffection that they resolved oftentimes to have revenge but as those who know themselvs conscious of such ill demeanor are ever in fear of their Persons so he who knew himself guilty of such wicked doings had always a certain number of his own Nation to secure and guard him However they once finding opportunity and being already com to the very Catastroph of Patience began to hew him with their Scymiters and Axes as he should go out of his Dining-Room where they chopt and mangled him so that he lay for dead upon the Floor in the Portic having received 17 grievous Wounds and lost three Fingers of his Right hand yet by the great diligence and skill of his Chirurgeon who was then at hand he was restored to his former Health and Sanity This outrage as it could not but ingender bad blood so it rendred the Ambassadour much more despightfull than before and that very night to be revenged sent a Georgian Soldier to Paniegros a Polish Gentleman who was as Assistent in this Ambassage and equally impowered to treat with the Ministers of State at the Persian Court and therefore reckoned by the other as an obstruction in the Promotion of his Interest as well as his being ready to represent the Occasion of these Tumults to the King in such manner as might tend to his disadvantage yet it ought to be understood of this Gentleman that he neither gave incouragement nor knew any thing of that extravagant Action The Georgian having obtained entrance ran to his Bed-side and there most inhumanly murthered him whilst asleep This Paniegros was a Gentleman of a brave conduct and withall of a meek temper having purchased the Love even of those that seemed to be his Lot-enemies for his prudent and civil deportment He had lived for som years together at Amsterdam and spoke very good Nether-dutch The rest of the Polish Nation were taken and secured som whereof were fast in Chains Nor with this did the Ambassador hold up but dayly revenged himself of the Poles which he used as Slaves and the more to over aw them listed several Georgians-Soldiers to guard his Body The Prince of Scamachy now sensible of the Differences and sad disorder of affairs took upon himself the Office of a Mediator and adjousted the matter so well that the imprisoned Parties were set again at liberty yet were no better used than before as to their Sus-and Maintenance whereas one Man might easily eat the Allowance he gave for 8. He on the Contrary continued a Junketting with those of his own Nation that an Ox a day would not have been too much if it were not for varietie and change of Diet. He bought 13 Kine which he sent out into the Field and set me to look after them but finding my self at a loss for Victuals I assumed the liberty to tell his Excellency that he must please to send me somthing to eat in the Field His answer was If you will have any thing steal a cow from the Persians and help your self so But that Commission I took occasion to let alone being sensible that my masters Order would not excuse me Thus I suffered more hunger than in all my life and sore against my will intimated the matter to my former Patron Hadsi Biram who gave me this reply I told you of it before-hand what a villain that Georgian is That he was but a Christian in show and far too base to be a Musulman And certainly the Gentleman had good reason on his side for this Ambassadour well knowing what Beer was brewed for him at the Court in Warsaw dispatches his Brother to the King at Ispahan to supplicate that they might both be circumcised pretending that now knowing better things than he had hitherto don therefore could not have Peace or Rest in Conscience but continual Horror and Inquietude if he were not admitted as a member in Mahometanism But they had such ample and clear Information at Court of his Life and Behaviour that they easily perceiv'd upon what account he did it and consequently declined his Request Shortly after he also received a Mandate from Ispahan to depart immediatly for Poland which was acceptable news for the Polish Gentry hoping at once to be rid of that Slavery and Misery they suffered After my old Patron had discoursed me a litle about this affair took his leav of me saying John I am very sorry for your condition pre'thee therefore com twice a day to my house and eat or at what time you are hungry I shall give my wife order upon my Absence to give you Victuals The sweetest music I must confess I heard in Persia

the Merchant reason to be well satisfied with his Person who show'd him all Possible Favour and Friendship On the 26 dito our Patron the Ambassadour got intelligence of the Party that had stole his Plate being discovered by a Goldsmith that had bought it for Notice was given to all the Goldsmiths in Scamachy that if any one bought it he should have his Money again and a Reward to boot Yet this Delinquent had more favour shown him than the Party who was put to the torment before thô innocent of the Fact for this received only a few blows on the Foot and was declared free He was a Polander not in service of the Ambassador but only a Parasite who frequented the House On the first of March was another Indian Corps burned with a Live-Woman after the same manner as was said before only the Wood was poured over with Naphte in place of Turpentine Oil. On the 2 dito Hadsy Biram my former Master sent for me to come to him where he intimated how that he intended so soon as he possibly could to go for Ispahan and asked me if I would go with him I answered Sir I would be glad that I might be so happy but the greatest difficulty will be to escape out of the Hands of my Patron for at first he would hardly trust me over the Threshold without one to watch me but in time gave me my Liberty to go where I would yet finding me for his bad usage desirous to be out of his hands watches me more narrowly than he did at first Upon this he expressed how sorry he was that he had sold me to the Ambassador as indeed for my own part I had great reason to be whereas by the first I had plenty of all that was necessary and was without any Oversight but with the last suffered perpetually Hunger Railing Blows and forced to lie all Winter on the hard and cold Floor without any Coverlet to keep me from cold so that it was an evident token of GODS Goodness that I came off with health and soundness of Body All the Winter long I was not permitted to come in the Kitchin much less at the Stove so that I had no way to warm my self unless when I found som pieces of wood among the Rubbish which I lay together and made a Fire of but what was worst I durst not for my life complain however with the approachment of the acceptable Summer season I was eas'd of that one hardship CHAP. XXIV The manner of Celebrating New-years day among the Persians Advice from Boynak from Derbent Fire-balls fall from the Sky Five Hundred beautiful Damosels sought up for the Scach or Sophy of Persia A quaint mean by which a Merchant saves his Daughter The Author writes to Smyrna A Chieftain of the Cosaks brought into Scamachy and is compelled to carry 3 of his Companions Heads in a Bag to Ispahan where he is upon promise of detecting somthing of weïght set at Liberty A Persian murthered by a drunken Georgian The murtherer executed by the Brother of the murthered Party A Horrible Self murther committed by several Persons at a Wedding A great Feast celebrated in memory of Hosseyn the 3d Son of Ali. A terrible Earth-quake The Chans Son dies and is interred ON the 10 of March being the Vernal Aequinoctial begins their Year This day is celebrated with Shooting Playing Feasting and Music The Solemnity began with the Firing of two great Guns and several Volleys of Muskets and lesser Fire-arms All the night they playd upon Trumpets Cornets Flutes and other Wind-music besides 15 Kettle-drums This day the Persians call Naurus and wish one another a happy New year as is customary among us on the 1 of Ianuary The Chan as also all the Nobles and Citizens kept open Table for several days together whilst nothing was talked of but Visits and Banquets My Patron professing Christianity was excused from these Expences holding out that he being a Christian could not safely maintain Mahometan Superstition This was a happy time for our Gentlemen who now with Authority went a mumping among the Persians nor did I think it good to dine with Duke Humphrey so long as I had such an honest Hadsi Biram to address my self to whither I went and was very kindly entertained On the 21 we received a Letter from one of our Company who was a Slave in Scemkal althô there was no name set to it at which we wondred yet did beleeve it was Anthony Munster the Diamond-cutter The Contents was That he understood how that there were 2 Dutch Chirurgeons at Scamachy whom he intreated to redeem him and he would order the Money to be paid at Moscou The Letter was delivered to us by order of the Chan but we had not the Power to do any thing for him yet understood not long after that the said Munster was carried to Ispahan as Captiv or Slave On the 25 we got a Letter from Meyndert Meyndertsz one of our Company which was directed to my Patron Bochdan the Contents thereof being much at one with the former yet he gave no other account of his fast Residence than that he was a Slave and lived not far from Derbent where being a Smith by his Trade he made Weapons for his Master He was afterwards bought by a Persian of Bacchu and since redeemed by I. van Termund The next day happened a Fray between 2 Georgians the Ambassadors Countreymen who hacked and hewed so long with their Scymiters till they had hardly a free hand-breadth in their Bodies that was not wounded nor could our Ambassadour part them notwithstanding all the means he could use whereas every one has the Freedom to right himself in such cases On the 31 at night we had another great Earthquake accompanied with fearfull Flashes of Lightning and Thunder On this day was also seen at Scamachy and other places in Persia huge Balls of Fire which seemed to be hurl'd down from Heaven with such Force as if the Bands of the World would be dissolved this being the most dreadful sight that ever I have seen in my life The Flame thereof was blewish like Sulphur when it burns The next day we got Tidings by way of Terky that Astrachan was retaken by the Great Dukes Forces and that several Thousands of the Rebells were executed but hearing those news so often related and afterwards found them to be but false Rumors supposed to be dispersed by some Persons whose Interest had dependence thereon we could not so easily be induced to take this upon Credit and therefore acquiesced in the Indifferency of the matter till we had a Confirmation On the 2 of April came an Order from Ispahan to make a General Muster of Girls from 2 years of Age upward out of which the Beauties select were to be chosen out for the King of Persia This Muster passed throughout the whole Kingdom not respecting either Nation or Religion The

went with my Patron to see the most noble Sepulchre of Schach Sephy My said Patron also prepared himself for this as he did to visit the other at Kelcheran by Fasting and Prayer This famous Mausoleum erected to the memory of Scach Sephy and now the Burying Place of other Persian Kings lies near the Maydan Before this pompous Sepulchre stands a fair Gate of rich Marble in which is shown an Admirable Skill in Architecture Within this Port or Gate hang two Massy Silver Chains athwart each other like Festons those they say were bestowed on this Place by the Chan of Meggura for a Monument of his Zeal Having entred this Gate we came into a fair and spacious Court all paved with square Stones and polished Porphyr round about on each side were Arches as Piazzas under which were shops of all sorts of Haberdashery Wares and Toys After this we went thrô another Gate far more beautifull than the former and within this was a fair Garden and indeed one of the fairest I had hitherto seen It was planted with all manner of Flowers and Herbs that might delight the Eie and Nose and all kinds of delicious Fruits to serve the Palat. Every Man has his freedom to walk and recreate himself but upon a very strict penalty not to pluck either Flower or Fruit. I was told how that 5 years before my being there a drunken Persian had hewn down a great bough with his Scymiter but being taken was immediatly beheaded with the same Weapon In this Gate hung also another great Silver Chain which was given by the Chan of Kentzay Here they demanded our Weapons which being delivered my Patron went forward to another Gate which entring he fell down and kissed the Threshold withall charging me not to touch it with my Feet lest I should pollute that which many thought worthy a long Pilgrimage to com and kiss he told me also that it was a favour greater than ordinary that I being a blind ignorant Christian and an Infidel should be admitted to pry into so glorious a Sanctuary I was heartily content to obey his Will rather than to deny my Curiosity and followed him close at the Heels lest coming into som Labrynth I should loose my Life by the Loss of my Master The next Place we came into was a stately Gallery or rather an Antichamber arched cross wise and neatly plaistered On the right hand as I went in was a great Silver Cock which ran with Water that was conveyed thither by leaden Pipes from a fair Fountain about 4 English miles without Town Right over against this is another Apartment paved with green and blew glazed stones and on the Floor was spread a very rich Carpet in the middle stood two huge Silver Candlesticks about 8 or 9 Foot high round about were Seats as in our Chores wherein sat several Priests all in white Stoles who sung all the time keeping good Harmony and at the End of every Versicle bowed all alike one to another This Place is called Tzichillachane the Chappel or Oratory of the King so called by reason of the 40 days which the Persians affirm that Scach Sephy spent here at one time in Fasting and Prayer not using any thing all that time save only a Cup of Water once a day Leaving this place we went into another Gate where a Silver Chain hung that was presented by Aly Chan. The Parlour or Hall into which we now came was all paved and laid in with a splecked Stone The Building its self was round like a Theatre the Doors were laid over with Silver Plates and had two great Silver Rings like Wreaths or Torses At the Entrance lay a costly and large Carpet where we were to pull off our Boots without which none is admitted to go in no not the King himself who somtimes to be a Praecedent and Example of Zeal pulls off his Boots at the first Gate but that 〈◊〉 seems is held to be a Work of Supererogation From hence we wen● to another Magnificent Hall thrô a Gallery the Pavement where of was covered with rich Tapestry The Doors of this said Hall we● covered with Plates of Gold which was don at the Charges of the Schach Abas who had made a vow to do it in case he returned hom● with Triumph when he went on an Expedition against the Vsbequ● in Chorasan as he did and vanquished the Rebels This Hall is n● so spacious as beautifull by far the Roof being no more than 48 Foo● long and 30 broad In the middle hung several Gold and Silver Lamp● and on each side sate 12 Priests each having a low Stool before him on which lay so many Parchment Books containing several Legend of the Alchoran which they read and sung by Turns Leavin● this Place we went into another which was separated and environe● with Silver Rails and had 3 Ascents or Steps to go up of solid Silve● This is the last and chief Oratory or House of Prayer where o● Patron pray'd with very great Zeal From hence we ascended int● another Place which was one Step higher and separated with mas● Grate-work all of pure Gold and wreathed behind this was t● Tomb of Schach Sephy which was of fair Marble being about 3 Fo● high 9 Foot long and 4 broad It was covered with a Carpet 〈◊〉 Crimson Velvet richly embroidered and laid in with precio● Stones Above hung several Lamps and on each side 2 huge Candl● sticks all of solid Gold these are lighted every Evening and bu● all the Night long The Door of this Place is opened for no Secul● or Temporal Person or Personage nor for the King himself Ne● this Tomb we saw also the Tombs of Schach Ismaël of Sephys an● of som Queens all which were only supplyed with Curtains an● void of curious Work and Ornament Leaving the Sepulchre w● went out at a door on the Right Hand that led into the Libra● which was very spacious yet without any Pillar Here are kept all the Ancient Records of Persia with abundance of Manuscripts in the Chaldean Persian Arabic and Syrian Tongues the Books were piled up one above another and most of them adorned with Gold and Silver whence I concluded that they were more for show than for dayly use and recourse In this said Library were several less Appartments where were many Porceline Dishes Cups and other Utensils for the Kitchin and Table which are used when the King or any other great Personage comes to Eat there whereas they say it is not consistent with the Humility they profess to be served in Gold or Silver the more because that the great Schach Sephy himself did eat altogether out of Wooden Dishes From hence we went out and came into the Kitchin the Doors whereof were covered with Silver Leavs by the aforesaid Schach Abas and the Room within very neat and handsom The Cooks were all the time very still and quiet as if it were som Religious Duty they were about

Hawk where the last after a long Encounter came off with Victory It began now to freez harder and harder as also to snow so that we were fain to stay 3 Day at Natens during which time we made good Cheer and spared not our Proviands which we had taken up by the way having now got sight of the Royal City Ispahan On the 17 th we left Natens and that Day had very rocky ground to drive over and by the way stop'd at a famous Carawansera called Dombi where we rested and refreshed our selvs and at night were fain to set down at Ruk a Village not far from Ispahan by reason of the snow remaining there also the most part of the next day CHAP. XXXI Arrival at Ispahan Their Reception with the Dutch Resident A Rélation of the Stability of Anthony Munster who was urged to imbrace Mahometanism his Death and Burial The Manner and Situation of the Dutch Lodge The Situation of Ispahan it 's Greatness Rivers running thrô the same The Aqueduct a mighty work of Schach Abas The Streets of Ispahan Maydan and Basar Fair Arches and Galleries The Sumptuous Mestzid of Schach Abas Dowlet or Schach-Chane the Royal Pallace The Divan-Chane or Court of Justice The Hiram-Chane or Palace of the Kings Concubines Allycarpi a Sanctuary or place of Refuge Carawanseras Taverns Cahwae-Chane Coffee-Houses Persian Saints and Philosophers Remal and Falkil two sorts of Sooth-sayers Their strange and ridiculous way of presaging The Kaysery or Gallerie of Shops HAving stay'd the most part of 2 Days at Ruk we set forward again and on the 19 we came to the long-wishd-for Ispahan Where being arrived I longed greedily to see my Countrey-men and went to my good Master Hadsi Byram to take my leav of him with a Thousand Thanks for his many Favours I desired him also to let som go with me to show me the Dutch Lodge which he with great willingness assented to and sent one of his Slaves with me Thus I went with Monsr Lewis Fabritius and Christian Brandt to the Lodge where for that time the Heer Frederic Bent of Enkhuysen was Chief Factor for the East India Company Monsr Kasenbroot of Rheenen Second or Under-Factor and Mr. Hubert Balde of Amsterdam Assistant When we came at the Gate we found a Black who was the Porter and spoke very good Nether-Dutch whom we desired to make our coming known which when he had don we were admitted in and very friendly received by the said Gentlemen who invited us to stay there which without much refusal we accepted with many Thanks They brought us forthwith into a very stately Room hung with Tapestry and furnished with Beds where we lay and had also Victuals and Firing provided us with what else was necessary Besides that they show'd us all imaginable Friendship and Divertisements taking great delight to hear our many Evasions and Deliverances from such hard Adventures I have elswhere advised how that being at Scamachi we had a Letter from one of our Company to which was set no name yet praesumed that it was from Anthony Munster the Jeweller The certainty thereof I understood here as also how he was brought to Ispahan Being com to Ispahan his Patron wrought very hard upon him to renounce Christianity and embrace the Mahometan Faith promising him upon his so doing to esteem him for his Son to giv him one of his Daughters in Marriage and a considerable Dowry beyond what was customary in those Lands All these the young Man declined saying that neither Promises nor Threats should ever praevail with him and therefore begg'd of him to rest contented His Patron finally marking that he was not flexible to espouse that Religion he began to pester and oppress him with all manner of Cruelty that he could invent insomuch that he became very Melancholic and at last lost his Sences in which condition he made his Escape into the Dutch Lodge whic● he took up for his Sanctuary and was kindly received by the Hee● Bent who held him so long in private till he had obtained his Freedom from the King Yet still continued this Frenzy with him till he died only som say that by certain Expressions he made about the Eternity of the Soul he was sensible of himself a little before his Death He was buried with a more than ordinary Pomp considering the meanness of his Person as to outward Estate but was highly set by for his perseverance and constancy in the Christian Faith His outward Qualities were very commendable being of a handsom stature fair Complexion and in every Way and Gesture very taking nor was he less to be praised for the internal Faculties of the Mind and Soul being very conscientious and just in all his dealings and withall pious His sweet Manners and Conversation was such that those who had the left converse with him were very sorry for his untimely or to speak more properly his early Death he not being fully 26 years of Age. The Dutch Lodge is a very fair Building not far from the Kings Palace having many fair Appartments Ware-houses and other Conveniences for reposing Merchandizes The many fair Rooms it has are furnished with all necessary Moveables beyond those of the Persians and far more costly Behind the House is a fair and spacious Garden having all sorts of Fruit-trees proper to that and other Climats as also a great Vineyard and an Arboret or Nursery for young Trees In the middle is to be seen a very noble Fountain dispersing it's water in various Figures in the Air to an admirable height surpassing most Water-works that I have seen in Europe The Hollanders live there very splendidly to uphold the Honour of the East India Company and go in the Persian Habit as also their Waiters and Attendants who are mostly Turks and Moors and because I was to go for Gameron they gave me a new Persian Suit which I was to take with me In the mean while I had work enough to satisfy their curiositie with frequent rehearsals of what had befallen me in my foregoing Voyages to the Indies and the Levant Ispahan called also Isphahan lies in 32 degr and 26 min. in the Countrey of Erak formerly called Parthia It is situated in a level and plain Landship environed on every side with Mountains at a considerable distance as the Mountains of Demawend on the South and South-west Masanderan and Jeylak Persan on the North-east This is the greatest City that I have seen in all Persia being with it's Suburbs and all 16 hours going in circuit about 48 English Miles It is but very weakly fortified the Walls being only of Earth and sloaping inward so that at Top they are not above 6 Foot thick the Trench or Ditch is also very narrow and in the Summer so shallow that the Children wade through it and somtimes it is wholly dry so that this City seems to ●ear no Enemy or forreign Invasion trusting to the potency and number of

a House in all Ispahan but has somthing of a Garden behind it more or less whence it coms that this City is so great in compass As to the manner of their Hous-keeping and other peculiar Customs I hold it needless to treat any thing about since it may be collected out of what I have already said in the foregoing Chapters They are in general very sociable and for their Urbanity towards strangers draw many Forreigners thither They are also Lovers of all kinds of Discipline and the Gentry very ambitious in Arts and Sciences The Land about Ispahan is very fertile and affoards all that is necessary for human sustenance in good plenty But the Town being very populous thrô the great concourse of Strangers from all parts of the World makes all things very dear but especially Fewel insomuch that Wood and Charcoal are sold by the Pound and notwithstanding it may seem to be in a warm climat yet in the Winter it is very cold or at lest so seeming to them who are used to the great heat of the Summer Solstice During the time of my being there they were very busy about gathering their Ice which is got and preserved after this manner First they dig a great Pit in the Earth about 40 Foot deep which they encompass with a Wall about 10 Fathom high which is commonly made of Clay but that side next to the North is lower than the rest that the cool North Winds may allay the violent Heat of the Sun then they dig or plow certain furrows in the Plains round about which when it freezes they set all over with Water and so gather the Ice and when they have enough cover it with straw This Ice is very common in use among the richer sort in the Summer time not only for cooling the Wines but aswell for lying upon their Dishes of Fruit when they are brought up to the Table which is only laid on a heap in the middle of the Dish and so dissolves it self through all the Fruit. This is reckoned for a good commodity if it be a hot Summer and is sold as well along the Streets as in Houses On the 16 of February was the Epiphany celebrated by the Armenian and Georgian Christians So soon as I heard what was the matter I rose pretty early in the morning with intent to see the Solemnity of the Day The first I met was the Jesaulcor or Great Marshal with all his subordinat Officers who were ordered to prevent Tumults and not to suffer Horses and Camels with any Burthens to pass over the Bridges and thrô the Streets that lead to Tzulfa and Tzarbag which was not only don for the sake of the Christians but upon the account of one of the Kings legitimat Wives whom he entirely loved being a Georgian by birth and educated in the Christian Religion and had a desire to go and see the Solemnities performed which the King would not deny her for that she was great with Child About 8 in the morning were all the Christian Ladies in Balconies which were all hung with Tapestry and those of the greatest rank with Canopies over head Those of meaner degree sate on each side the River Senderus and had a Guard of Soldiers under the Command of an Officer to secure them from being abused by the Mahometans and to suffer no Men to crowd in upon them About 9 assembled all those under Spiritual Orders and the Clergy belonging to the 10 Churches of Tzulpha and the 2 Churches of Ispahan Those were all attired in white Stoles and Capps of Cloth of Gold upon their Heads with long Labels hanging down to their middle but more gorgeous was the Attire of the Patriarch being all over richly embroydered with Gold and adorned with costly Gems Every Priest carried a Silver Cross hung with litle Silver Bells and Basons The Crosses which were carried by those of higher degrees and in the formost Ranks were supported each by 3 Men. The Inferior Clergy followed after with lighted Tapours in their Hands accompanied with the most eminent of the Laïty The Superior Monks of Ispahan adjoyned themselvs to the Patriarch 5 of them bearing up his Pontifical Robes 2 on each side and one behind About one a clock came the King mounted on a stately Arabian Horse without any considerable Retinu save only the Chancelor and Grand Marshal the the Guards and the rest of the Court having order to keep behind the Procession The Begum or Queen before mentioned was carried before as a privat Gentlewoman in a Sedan to a great Merchants house accompany'd only with one Gentlewoman the Master of the Eunuchs and 4 of his Company for the King ever reposes great Confidence in the Christians and esteems them as the most loyal of all his Subjects as appears by his adventuring his person among them without any Guards But before the Procession was ended it began to snow very hard which did not only cause the King to leav them but put a stop to the further Celebration of this great Festival which by the preparations seemed to be intended to be solemnized with very great Pomp for besides the Contribution of all the Christians who as I have elsewhere noted are very rich the King sends the Patriarch a considerable Sum of Money som time before in order to the carrying on and maintaining this anniversary Custom The Patriarch and Superior Clergy seeing there was no hopes of the Weather growing better they departed without performing the ritual Ceremonies but the Laïty continued Dancing and Singing all the Night long In the mean while the Caravan was in a readiness to depart for Gammeron and the Heer Bent gave order for Horses and Camels to be bought up for us to carry our Provision and Baggage He also took care to buy us all Necessaries we had occasion for on our Journey and was pleased to appoint me as Caffil Abassi or Overseer of the Provision About this time it frose very hard and as I not without wondring saw Ice 3 Foot thick which was averred never to be known in that Countrey in any mans Age. How hard a season it was for poor People may be gathered from what I have already said how scarce all kind of Fewel is is Ispahan CHAP. XXXIII The great Civility of Hadsi Biram The Authors Departure out of Ispahan Their incommodous Travelling thrô the Snow Wells and Pits of Water abounding with Fish They are much incommodated in their Travailing The Caravan assailed by Robbers Their Superstitious horrour of Swines Flesh Sepulchre of Schach Solyman's Mother The Sepulchre of Noah his Wife Children and Childrens Children Tzilminar The Pompous Relicts and Ruins of the famous Persepolis and the noble Fort thereof The Statue of Rustan a Persian Champion ON the 17 of February we had order to make ready for our Journey wherefore that morning I went to return my hearty Thanks to my good Master Hadzi Byram where coming and finding him at