sometimes one way sometimes another Wind at South-west and by South a small gale I hoisted out my Boat and sounded but no ground at 140 Fathoms I tried the Current with my Boat but found little or none worth notice the Sea ripled in many places I sounded on them but no ground at 108 Fathom several Beds of Sea-weed driving to and fro in knots these Weeds are five or six Fathom long in strings with broad leaves on them of a brown colour at the root hangs a Clod or Rock of 2 or 3 pound weight several Sea-Fowls flying and swimming near the Ship being quite clam my Men kill'd some of them with their Birding-pieces for they were very tame not moving at the report of of a Gun they are very like to Sea-Gulls and good meet some Seals and Whales seen February 5. were seen several beds of Rock-weed and Sea-Fowls much like Gannets some black others white pied and grey small Seal-fishes like so many Dogs for their Heads resemble Bull-dogs which they 'l keep above Water a long time and look at the Ship they are very nimble at diving and skipping out of the Water This Afternoon at seven a Clock I was in the Latitude of 41 degrees South and Longitude West from the Lizard of England 52 deg and 50 min. and in Meridian distance from the Lizard 895 Leagues Meridian distance from Port Praya 616 Leagues Longitude from Port Praya West 36 d. 34 m. This Night I advised with Don Carolus where it would be best for us to hale in with the Land in what Latitude or at what Cape or Harbour on this Coast of America being now to the South-ward of the River of Plate and according to my Instructions before the Coast to be discover'd and a Trade set on foot with the Natives He told me I might do what I would for he did not understand the Coast nor where 't was inhabited 't was his whole Discourse in the Voyage that he had been here in a Galley and knew all the Coasts from the River of Plate to the Streights and thorow the Streights all along the West Coast to Baldavia and Lima being arrived here as far as I can perceive by him he knows nothing of the matter nor any thing appertaining to Navigation all I can fancy of him is that he may have liv'd with a West Indian Governour whom he has heard talk of these Parts February 8. at 7 a Clock this Afternoon the Wind came to the West South-west a stiff gale I stood to the Southward much Rock-weed pass'd by the Ship to day and several Sea-Fowls seen very cold for the Season being Summer which Don Carolus began to complain of and told me he did not think we should have come so far Southerly I shew'd him by my Plates how far we were to go through the Streights and along the West Coast he said the Spaniards went to Chile a nearer way I answer'd 't was into the River of Plate and over Land which we could not do My Company are all in good health but some of a puny Race grow weak in being so long on Shipboard I give them Vinegar once a Week which is very good to prevent the Scurvy in their Mouths also I order'd every Man to wash his Mouth Face and Hands before the receive his daily Allowance of Bread and appointed one Man to see it performed if any neglected it the Steward kept their Allowance for one day likewise every Man is commanded to keep himself clean and free from Lice upon forfeiture of his daily Allowance to the Party accusing him by these means the Ship is kept neat sweet and clean tho' the dirty foggy Weather is a great Enemy to this Discipline February 19. I sounded often to day and had fifty and fifty three Fathom dark black Sand wth some bright fine Sand in it Beds of Rock-weed Seals and Porpoises such as are in the European Seas seen to day three Whales many Fowls flying about and some Penguins in the Sea swimming near the Ships at 2 a Clock in the Afternoon the Wind was at E. b. S. a stout gale and a great Sea I stood to the Southward close haled under my Courses the Pink half a Mile to Wind-ward of me udner her's she out-sails us now it blows and puts us past our Top-fails and steers along with us with only her Main-sail set the Sea runs lofty Monday February 21. At a quarter of an hour past eight this Morning I saw the Land bearing West of me and distant about 4 Leagues I sounded and had 21 Fathom small Stones and Sand still I stood in West by my Compass The Land makes but an ordinary heighth towards the Sea side but farther up round high Hills and looks reddish the Northermost Land I could see which was Cape Blanco bore North-north-west of me about two Leagues and the Southermost Land at the face of the Cape The Land trented away to te Southward of me Southwesterly of an ordinary height by the Water side but up in the Land are Hills like Tables on the top a little higher than the rest the Land makes in Hills and Valleys all along like Downs of an ordinary heighth at nine a Clock this Morning I braced the Head-sails to the Mast and lay so half an hour till the Fog cleared up that I might make the Land plainly being within five miles of the shore side which made a kind of Bay breached on the shore I sounded and at 17 Fathom had rough ground with some small stones drawn up in the Tallow of the Lead which was dinted by Rocks between nine and ten a Clock there was a fine clear by which I saw the Land very plainly it look'd reddish like seared Grass no Woods to be seen on any of the Hills or Valleys but all as bare as the Grass-Downs in England I durst not send my Boat a-shore for fear of losing her in the Fog or being sunk at the shore whereon the Sea breaks very much the Wind was at North and by East a fresh gale blew almost along the shore and being out but 24 hours before made the Sea run high the Land lies by the Sea-side South-south-west and North-north-east as far as I could see to the Southward no fire or smoak to be see upon the Land Course made true after several Courses from yesterday Noon till to day at nine a Clock when I was 3 Leagues off the Land true Course is West 6 d. 50 m. Northerly distance sailed fifty miles seven tenths Departure West 50 miles difference of Longitude West 1 d. 15 m. difference of Latitude North 0d 6 m. Latitude by account is 47 d. 14 m. South no Observation this three days being foggy Weather Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1014 League 1 mile 7 tenths Longitude at 9 a Clock from the Lizard West 61 d. 56 m. 6 tenths Longitude from Port Praya West 44 deg 38 m. 5 tenths Meridian distance from Port Praya West
Day Noon the Wind variable with great gusts and Rain at Noon the Ockney Islands bore West about 4 Leagues the Ockney Isles are low such as we saw at the same time we saw Fair Isle being high Land and about 6 Leagues off we found the Tide of Flood to set in very strong between the Ockney and Fair Isles At 8 at Night came a sudden strong gust and put us under a Main-sail Reeft at which time Catnose bore by Judgment about 8 Leagues off West by South we tryed away South-east the Wind at West-south-west a great Storm Sunday August 13. From last Night 8 a Clock to this Day 4 in the Afternoon a great Storm of Wind from the West by South to the West-north-west we tryed away under a Main-sail Reest making her way good by Judgment South-east 37 Miles Lat. per Judgment 58 d. 16 m. departure from Catnose 47 Miles East saw many Pitterals about the Ship at Night less Wind. Monday August 14. From the 13. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale Course per Compass South Lat. per a good Observation 56 d. 38 m. fair Weather Tuesday August 15. From the 14. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind from the West-north-west Course per Compass South distance sailed by the Log 53 Miles fair Weather at Noon the Wind came at South we stood in for the Land spake with two fishing Busses under English Colours but they were Dutch at 6 at Night we got in with the Land about 2 Leagues to the Northward of Tinmouth Castle we tack'd and stood off the Wind at South Wednesday August 16. The Wind from the South to the South-south-east At Noon Tinmouth Castle South-west about 2 Leagues off we ply to the Southward Thursday August 17. From the 16. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind at West-south-west At Noon much Wind we Reeft our Courses and stand along the Shore to the Southward at 2 a Clock Flambrough Head West about 2 Miles Friday August 18. The Wind at West-south-west At Noon we anchored a League to the Northward of Cromer the Tide being spent Saturday August 19. At 6 in the Morning Weighed with the Tide and turned up Yarmouth Roads anchored right against the Town at 8 at Night Weighed and turned up above the Pier and anchored the Tide being spent the Wind at South-west Sunday August 20. At 8 in the Morning Weighed with the Tide of Flood and turned to Windward at 4 in the Afternoon anchored with the Tide of Ebb in Southwole Bay in 8 Fathom Water the Church bearing North-north-west Winds from the South-south-west to the South-south-east a fresh Gale Monday August 21. At 8 at Night Weighed with the Tide of Flood and turned up into Albrough Road and anchored there at 4 the next Morning Lieutenant Whitlock went ashore at Albrough to take Horse for London At 9 in the Morning Weighed with the Tide of Flood the Wind at West-south-west a fresh Gale and turned up into the Sleeway and anchored there about 5 in the Evening in 9 Fathom Water the Naze Land bearing West by North. Tuesday August 22. At 10 a Clock Weighed the Wind at West-south west and turned to Windward with the Flood At 5 in the Morning anchored upon the Tide of Fbb two Miles below the Middle ground At Noon Weighed with the Flood and turned to Windward the Wind at West by South at 6 anchored below the Shore Wednesday August 23. The Wind at West-north-west at 4 in the Morning Weighed Anchor and turned up a Mile above the Buoy of the Noar and anchored upon the Ebb about 8 a Clock At one a Clock Weighed Anchor the Wind at West-north-west we turned up the River Now after the JOURNAL I do intend to shew my Conceptions of the said Voyage and a true Relation of our Miscarriage with some Observations made in the said Voyage THE first was the following the Opinion of William Barrans that was to steer directly North-east from the North Cape and to fall in the mid-way betwixt Greenland and Nova Zembla so having made the Land to the Westward of the North Cape the 19. Day of June I steered away North-east by Compass which was not so much by the true Course because of the variation that is there Westerly and the 22. Day at Noon we saw the main Body of Ice being in the Lat. of 76 d. and about 60 Leagues to the Eastward of Greenland At the first seeing of Ice I did imagin it had been the Ice that joyned to Greenland and that if I went more Easterly there might be a free Sea so I ran close by the Ice it lying away East-south-east and West-north-west and every League or less that we ran we met with a Cape of Ice so when we were about that we could see no Ice to the Northward so standing in North-east sometimes two Glasses that is one hour we could see more Ice a Head and then we were forced to go out the same way we came in and thus I continued Coasting the Ice sometimes with great hopes of a clear Sea and then again disheartened by seeing more Ice till at last I had no hopes at all which was when I saw the Land of Nova Zembla and the Ice joyn to it So here the Opinion of William Barrans was Confuted and all the rest of the Dutch Relations which certainly are all forged abusive Pamphlets as also the Relations of our own Countrymen But certainly if Men did really consider the many individual dangers and mischiefs that comes upon the broaching of such untruths they would never do it for I do now verily believe that if there be no Land to the Northward of the Lat. of 80 d. that the Sea that is there is all frozen and always continueth so for I that could get no farther than 76 d. found it so frozen without intermission and some of the Ice that we saw that was on the main Body of it had been conveyed 10 Degrees more Southward would have taken some Centuries of Years to Thaw it for the loose Ice that lay about the Edges of the main Body was not more than a Foot thick in some pieces above the Superficies of the Water and the rest of the Cake that was sunk was more than 18 Foot below So I conclude that those vast Mountains that were on the main Body were all on Shore as of necessity they must if they hold the same proportion and considering the shallowness of the Water which I found all along the Ice which in the mid-way between the two Lands I found to be no more than 70 Fathom was doubtless a sign that to the Northward is Land and that the main Body of Ice that lyeth crusted about the Shore may be 20 Leagues or more and that Nova Zembla and Greenland are the same Continent for if there had been any Passage there would have been some Current which I could never or very hardly find to be any and the little that was run
East-south-east along the Ice which is nothing else but a small Tide which riseth some 8 Foot Thus the Ice having been an obstacle in our way as also the cause of my coming so far to the Eastward which before I never intended I will come to the misfortune that happened to us in the loss of our Ship which was thus being amongst the Ice the 29. Day of June in the Morning we had like to have been inclosed in it it proving likewise foggy Weather I stood out to the Southward thinking to lye there till fairer Weather or to spend some time to the Southward and then come up to the Ice again to see if there might be any alteration in it as to its removal either East West North or south but all this Day it proved foggy dirty Weahter the Wind being at West so we lay South-south-west with the Stem and by our Judgment and Reckoning the Westermost Land of Nova Zembla bore from us East-south-east that was 4 Points under our Lee Bow But such was our misfortune that it proved not so for about 10 of the Clock Captain Flawes being upon our Weather Quarter fired a Gun and bore to me and called out that there was Ice a Head then I looking out a Head saw something white just under the Bow which presently I perceived to be a breath and no Ice now if I had staied with the Ship Captain Flawes being to Windward I should have been on Board of him and then certainly we had been both lost so I was forced to bear up with hope that I might get clear of it but the Ship being a great while wearing struck on the Rock her Head lying to Seaward which if it had not but that the Broadside had been to the Sea we had all perished without Gods great mercy Captain Flawes in the mean time being a shorter Ship wore round and came close under our Stern and with great Providence escaped and stood off to Sea here we lay beating on the Rock in most cruel manner for the space of 3 or 4 hours using all possible means to save her but all in vain for it blew so hard that it was impossible to carry out an Anchor capable to do us any service though we had an opportunity to carry a small Anchor and warp to hall another out by which signified but little the Ship all this while lay and at the end of 4 or 5 hours we saw Land close under our Stern to the great amazement of us all which before we could not see for the foggy Weather so I commanded the Men to get out our Boats before our Mast came by the Board which was done I sent the Boatswain toward the Shore in the Pinnace to see if there was any possibility of landing which I much feared because the Sea ran so high In half an hour he returned with this answer that it was impossible to save a Man the Sea ran so high and the Snow being in high Clifts on Shore was unaccessible which was but bad tidings so then it was high time to think on the safety of our Souls and we went all together to Prayers to beseech God to have Mercy on us for now nothing but individual ruin appeared before our Eyes after Prayers being done it proved a little clearer Weather and I looking over the Stern saw a small Beach directly with the Stern of the Ship where I thought might be some possibility of landing so I sent the Pinnace again with some Men to be landed but they durst not venture on Shore so I sent the Long-Boat with some 20 Men to Land who attempted it and got safe on Shore so they in the Pinnace seeing that followed them and their Men likewise and both returned on Board again now the Men on the Shore sent to me desire some Fire-Arms and Ammunition for there was many Bears on Shore so I caused to be put into the Pinnace two Barrels of Powder that we had saved dry before the Ship was belged and some small Arms and some Provision with my own Papers and Mony but as she put off from the Ship side a Sea overset her so that all was lost with the life of one Man by name John Bosman being Coopers Mate and several others taken up for dead the Long-Boat being then on Shore to Land more Men and they hearing us call from aboard when as then we could not see the Shore they came on Board and saved the Men but the Pinnace was all broke to pieces which was no small grief to us so the Long-Boat being on Board and the Sea running prodigious high the Boatswain and some others would compel me and the Lieutenant to leave the Ship saying that it was impossible for the Boat to live any longer in that Sea and that they had rather be drowned than I but desiring me when I came on Shore if it were possible to send the Boat again for them so I being half way on Shore the Ship over-set so I made all the hast possible to Land them Men I had in the Boat and having landed them I went off to the Ship again to save those poor Men that had been so kind to me before so with great hazard I got with the Boat to the Quarter of the Ship and they came down the Ladder into the Boat only one Man who was left for dead which was one that had been cast away in the Pinnace whose name was Alexander Frazor a very pretty Saylor So I returned to the Shore and got safe to Land though very wet and cold so we hauled up the Boat on Shore and went up the Land about a flightshoot where our Men were making a Fire and a Tent with Canvas and Oars which we had saved for that Purpose so we lay all that Night very cold wet and weary The next Morning the Man that we left on Board recovered and got unto the Mizen-Top for that Mast we left standing when we came away the other we had cut all down The Ship laboured and beat violently but it blew so hard and the Sea ran so high that it was impossible to save him so the Weather continuing blowing with extreme Fogs and with Frost and Snow and all the ill compacted Weather that could be imagined together We built more Tents to preserve our selves and the Ship breaking in pieces came all ashore to the same place where we landed which served for shelter and Firing besides there came to us some Hogsheads of Flower and Brandy good store which was no little Comfort in our great Extremity Here we lay betwixt hope and despair hoping for fair Weather that Captian Flawes might find us which was impossible that ever he should do if it continued foggy and some despairing of his being safe but that he might be Lost as well as we But supposing we never was to see him again I was resolved to try the utmost to save as many as I could in
where any Trees grew Here are abundance of Muscles very refreshing Diet and full of Pearl also Limpets and incredible Numbers of Penguins and Seals Anno Dom. 1598. The Fourth Circumnavigation of the Globe was performed by Oliver Noort a Dutchman his chief Pilot being Captain Melis an Englishman who had accompanied Mr. Candish in his Voyage This Noort steer'd much the same Course with Magalianes Drake and Candish having spent near three years in encompassing the Earth He saw upon the Land of Patagonia some Deer a sort of Bufalo and Ostriches We may note here that in the Year 1589 the Delight of Bristol one of the Consorts of John Chidley Esq and Mr. Paul Wheel got into the Streights of Magellan but meeting with Misfortunes was forced back having reach'd only Cape Froward Also in the year 1598. Verhagen ' s Fleet under Sir James Mahu Simon de Cordes Sebald de Wert c. wherein William Adams was chief Pilot suffered great Miseries in these Streights This Sebald de Wert gave Clusius a description of the Winter-bark-Tree growing up and down Patagonia They preserv'd themselves mith Geese Ducks vast large Muscles Penguins Seals c. Returning out of the Streight and sailing Southwards they discovered Sebald's Isles Anno Dom. 1614. George Spilbergen General of a Dutch Fleet of six Ships passed through the Streights of Magellan and the South Sea to the East Indies from whence he returned by the Cape of Good Hope to the Texel having been out about three years This was the Fifth Circumnavigation of the Globe Ann. Don. 1609 1610. Pedro Fernandez Giros a Portuguese and Captain Ferdinand de Quir a Spaniard do both affirm That they sailed at several times above 800 Leagues together on the Coast of a Southern Continent until they came to the height of 15 degrees of South Latitude where they found a very fruitful pleasant and populous Country Giros began to take his Course in the height of the Streights of Magellan This vast Tract of Land perhaps may be one side of or may belong to Jansen Tasmen's Land Van Diemen's Land Zelandia Nova Hollandia Nova Carpentaria and New Guiney which the Dutch afterwards coasted detected and gave Names to many Bays Rivers and Capes in the Years 1619 1622,1627 1628 1642 and 1644. from the Equinoctial to 44 deg South Lat. The Hollanders have indeed made the greatest Discoveries towards the South Terra Incognita which they have not yet divulg'd Dirk Rembrantse about 15 or 16 years ago published in Low Dutch a short Relation out of the Journal of Captain Abel Jensen Tasmen upon his Discoveries of the South Terra Incognita in the year 1642 to the Southward of Nova Hollandia Vandemen's Land c. 'T is remarkable that all the Circumnavigators of the Globe enter'd into the East Indies either by the Philippines or the Molucco's being peradventure hindred from passing round more Southwards by that vast long Chain of Land which seems to stretch almost from the Equinosctial to the 50 degree of South Lat. Therefore they generally steer'd upon the South Sea either for the Isles of Salomon or those called the Ladrones Anno Dom. 1615. Will. Cornelius Schouten of Horn and Jacob le Maire of Amsterdam undertook the Sixth Circumnavigation of the Globe by a new Passage Southwards from the Streights of Magellan in Terra del Fuogo which they happily discovered and passed finding out Sebald's-Isles Staten-Land Maurice-Land Barnevelt-Isles and so by Cape Horn in the 57deg of S. Lat. they found out a new way into the South Sea called ever since Le Maire's Streight in this Voyage they gave Names to several Islands and Countries returning to Holland by the East Indies having been out two years and Eighteen days Aftewards a Spnish Fleet under Bartolemeo Garcias de Nodal Anno 1618. sailed through Le Maire's Passage and in the year 1623. part of Prince Maurice his Fleet steered the same Course discovering some small Isles Nodal saw People near Le Maire's Streight all painted and clad with Birds Skins they fed upon yellow Flowers like Marigolds Anno 1643. Brewer or Brower went another way into the South Sea by a Passage called after his own Name which is east of Le Maire's Streight but whether Brewer went through a New Streight with Land on each side or had a wide Sea on the East we cannot inform you having never seen the Diary of his Voyage but most Maps make it a new Streight the perhaps he might sail near the same Course which Captain Sharp afterwards did they who have his Voyage may soon determine this Doubt The Southern part of Terra Magellanica commonly called Terra del Fuego from the great Fires seen upon it by the Sailors seems by the Observations of the Dutch to be divided into many Isles and Streights leading into both Seas The Country appears mountainous with fair and green Vallies Springs Rivulets and much Herbage The Creeks are fit for Shipping Water and Wood being plentiful The Air is tempestuous from the vast quantity of Vapours from both Oceans The Natives paint their Bodies and deck themselves with Shells and Skins They make their Baskets and Nets of Rushes out of which they twist Lines and hanging Hooks made of Stone and baited with Muscles they take abundance of Fish Their Knives are made of sharpened Bones and all their Arrows are armed with them Their Canoes are like the Venetian Gondola's For the Description of the Northern part of Terra Magellanica commonly called Patagonia we refer the Reader to Sir John Narbrough's Journal printed at the beginning of this Collection Anno 1669. His Majesty of Great Britain His Royal Highness the Duke of York and seveothers of the Nobility design'd a better Discovery of Chili in order whereunto two Ships were sent out under the Conduct of that great Navigator and worthy Commander Sir John Narbrough who returned June 1671 having been out above two years passing and repassing the Streights of Magellan and coasting Patagonia and Chili His Observations and Draughts are the most judicious and exact of of any that went before him Anno 1680. and 1681. Captain Sharp made many bold Adventures on several Islands and Coasts in the South Sea In his return he being quite out of all hopes of recovering the Streights of Magellan or those of Le Maire or Brewer was forced to seek for a Passage farther South than by Cape Horn he went to about 60 deg South Lat. meeting with many Islands of Ice Snow Frosts and Whales departing from a small Place named by him the Duke of York's Island in the South Sea he steered near 800 Leagues to the Eastward and afterwards as many to the Westward The first Land he saw in those three Months was the Island of Barbadoes so that Land in the Streight of Le Maire and in Brewer's Passage must be Islands and not join'd to any great Southern Continent as suppos'd by some Since these Attemps and Undertakings several English Ships have passed
735 Leagues 1 mile 5 tenths Variation of the Compass Easterly 18 Degrees I concluded we had shot past Port Desier Harbour in the Fog for the Islands and Rocks which we saw were Penguin and other Isles lying about it which lies to the Southward of the Harbour of Port Desier Many Seals Penguins pied Porpoises and several Sea Fowls c. seen to day Thursday Febr. 24. Hasey Weather Wind at West-north-west a fresh gale I sent Men up to the Top-mast-head to look abroad this Morning no sight of the Pink I judge she must be in Port Desier I weighed about 8 a Clock this Morning and stood to the Northward with my Ship I went in my Pinnace along the shore to the Northward whilst the Ship sail'd in the Offing about two Leagues from the shore the Shore-side is in Beaches and scatter'd Rocks in many places the Tide of Flood was with us at the North-end of Seals Bay lies a small rocky Island copling up like a Haycock It is cover'd with grey-colour'd Fowls Dung a very strong Tide runs here between the Island and the Main 't is a little more than a Cables length from the Point of the Main there 's a great many broken Rocks about it by the Sea-side here the main Land is low and sandy up the Country in large Downs and Hills without Wood or fresh Water any where On this Island are abundance of Seals and Sea Fowls we gave it the name of Tomahauke Island from an Indian Club lost here called by the Caribbe-Indians at Surinam a Temahauke 't is all a craggy Rock a little bigger than Seal-Island and is eight Leagues to the North-north-east distant from it to the Northwest of this Island is a deep rounding Bay called in the Charts Spiring's Bay wherein lie three small Islands of an indifferent height the Land in the Country over this Bay is large high Hills Rocks lie in the North part of the Bay I cross'd it in the Pinnace amd sounded as I went over and had 21 Fathom rough ground in the mid-way 't is seven Miles broad and near 3 Leagues deep it rounds with a turning up to the North-northwest ward behind a Point farther than I saw upon which rounding Point stand black Rocks which make like a ragged Building and a Tower in it at my coming in with the Land I sail'd close under this shoar with my Boat the shore is steep black Rocks and low Bays with Pebble-stones and sandy Beaches green Grass on the Hills no Wood nor fresh Water to be seen at the North-east Point of this Spiring's-Bay the Land makes out full like a foreland a fair high Land in large plain Hills with sandy small Bays at the face of this Foreland lie six rocky Islands one is a Musket-shot off the Main the rest farther off the outwardmost is the biggest a Mile from the Point of the Main and is called Penguin-Island it is indifferent high at the ends and low in the middle 't is near three quarters of a Mile long North-north-east and South-south-west and near half a Mile broad East and West it is all craggy Rocks except in the lowest part of the middle which is gravelly and in the Summer time had a little green Grass the great black Gannets lay their Eggs here and the Penguins all over the Island upon and under the Rocks in Holes Seals lie all about the sides on the tops of the highest Rocks and in the middle of it the number of Seals Penguins and Sea-Fowl upon these Islands is alsmost incredible to them that never saw them for the multitude of each Creature that 's there daily is numberless the Six Islands are full of Seals but the Penguins frequent the biggest most I put a-shore at one of them and took into my Boat three hundred Penguins in less than half an hour and could have taken three thousand in the time if my Boat would have carried 'em for 't is but driving 'em in flocks to the shore by the Boats side where two or three Men knock them on the head with short Truncheons and the rest heave them into the Boat the Seals will run over a Man if he does not avoid 'em mean time the Ship was standing to the Northward about 2 Leagues off many broken Rocks and foul ground lie among these Islands and without the Point of the outermost it makes a great ripling which is the strength of the Tide reversed from the Islands aginst the other Tide to the Northward of these Islands is a Bay four Leagues long and a League and half deep in the Northwest thereof lies the Harbour of Port Desier which we could see from Penguin Island 's bearing North-north-west from Penguin Island distant about 3 Leagues about the middle of this Bay are steep white Cliffs near two miles long the upper part of the Cliff has black streaks down a fourth part caused by the Water draining down on it the Land is plain on the top of these Cliffs but further into the Country high rounding Hills and Downs and toward the Water-side low on the South part of the Bay are craggy Rocks on the Main like great Walls near the Sea there 's a sandy Cove to hale a Boat up in foul Weather the Cove is just under these wall-like Rocks Saturday Feb. 26. Fair Weather the Wind at West a stiff gale I kept a Light out all Night that the Pink might see if she came along the first part of the Night a great Fire was made on the shore for the same purpose Cold weather this Morning at 7 a Clock I manned both my Boats and into the Herbour the Ship rode moored at the Harbour-mouth within the Muscle-bank in six Fathom at low Water I sent my Men upon the Hills on the North shore to look abroad for the Pink and make a Fire in the dry Grass that she might see the smoak if she were thereabouts but they could not see her I sounded the Harbour in many places to day at low Water and found it a very good one for great Ships to ride in provided they have good Cables and Anchros I searched the shore but found no Wood and very little fresh Water on the hilly and large Downs very few Bushes but dry long Grass growing in tufts and knots the Soil is gravelly and dry in some Valleys well mixt with black mould no People fire or smoak but our own to be seen I saw several places where they had lain behind Bushes upon Grass which they had plucked up and that they had made small sires and roasted Lumpets and Muscles there lay Wooll Feathers bones of Beasts and shivers of Flints I went to a Flag which I left on a Hill yesterday with Beads at it but finding no body had been at it let it stand no Beasts seen any where except two Hares running over the Hills this day we were taken up with viewing the Harbour so that we did not advance above a mile and
a half into the Land in the Valleys between the Rocks grows abundance of wild Pease which had green leaves and blewish blossoms both tasting like green Pease-leaves in England growing on vines and tangled together also very sweet smelling Herbs much like Tares very green and white and yellow Flowers likewise green Herbs much like Sage but grow in knots near the ground like Lettice these Herbs with the Pease-leaves made a good Sallad to refresh such as were inclining to the Scurvy for want of which fresh Trade several of my Men were falling into it Here are abundance of very good Muscles and Limpets on theRocks and an Island frequented by many Seals and Fowls in the River were pied Divers as big as Ducks some of them grey and black shags Ducks and other Sea-Fowls breed on them amongst the Rocks and Bushes to day I went upon one of these Islands and caught as many young black Shags in their Nests as loaded the Pinnace when I have discovered better the particulars of the Fowls and other things seen here I will mention them hereafter Night coming on and it beginning to blow hard I went aboard with Herbs Fowls and what else I had got to day and divided all things equally among the Company the Boys Dividend being as large as my own or any Man's it blew very hard this Evening and looked very black in the South-west an ordinary gale I kept a Light out all Night in the Poop for the Pink this day all the Company eat of young Seals and Penguins and commended them for good Food I judged this a very fit Harbour to fit the Ship in for the main Mast must be unrig'd and a new gang of shrouds fitted and Ballast be had and it might be a means to fall in with the Pink for from the tops of the Hills we could see a great way into the Sea so that if she should come near the Coast we could not miss her We found 2 Springs of fresh Water one in a Valley close by the Water-side in a gully above the Ship half a mile up the River the other up a Valley between the Rocks just a-brest where the Ship rode about half a mile from the River's side right from Coopers-Bay in the same Valley these Springs are but small and the Water 's a little brackish or saltish for in the dry Valleys the Earth is naturally saltish the Ground and Rocks have a white Rhime of Salt-petre hanging on them I went into the Land 2 miles North-west and saw the Country hilly and dry Land without Wood or Water some craggy Rocks and Valleys low but dry and of a Salt-petre nature here and there some Bushes with prickly Branches and Leaves like White-Thorn Bushes in England the lesser Bushes have small dry Gauls growing oâ— them with a small dry Seed as hot in the Mouth as Pepper not a Tree to be seen the Soil is graâ— velly and sandy generally with tufts of dry feared Grass growing on it I digged in several places but saw nothing but gravelly Sand and Rocks no sort of Metals or Minerals I looked also among the broken Rocks for Metals but saw no sign of any from the tops of the Hills I could see a great way into the Land which is all Hills and Downs like Cornwall toilsom travelling to those that were not used to it I could travel as far in an hour as many of my Men could in two to day we saw nine Beasts feeding on the Grass very like Deer but larger and had longer Necks but no Horns reddish coloured on the Back and aloft whitish under their Bellies and up their Flanks when we had got within a Furlong of them they fell a neighing like Horses one answered another and then all run away Tuesday March 1. Fair Weather this Morning Wind at North a fine gale and a cold Air. This Forenoon I filled the Casks out of the Spring and dug them deeper I set up a long Pole with a white Cloath upon it on a Hill near a mile into the Land where 't was most likely to be seen by the Inhabitants with it I left Beads a Looking-glass a Knife a Hook and an Hatchet to invite the People of the Country to shew themselves for I was willing to see 'em that I might discover what they had but through I went about the Hills this Afternoon I could see neither People Fire nor Smoak I saw three Ostriches but could not get near enough to make a shot at them they were feeding on Grass and at first sight of me ran â—way I had a Greyhound with me which I turn'd loose upon 'em who gave Chase to one of them and at last gave her a turn which she recovered took to the Hills and so escaped they are grey coloured and larger than a great Turky-cock in England they can't fly but have long Legs and trust to their running I saw two handfuls of Wooll among the Grass where the Natives had made a Fire it was the Spanish red Wooll which they bring out of India and very fine I brought it away with me and set the Greyhound at 3 of the large Beasts like Deer but they were too swift for him Night coming on I returned on Board at 7 a Clock this Night the Wind came to the North a fresh gale and hasey Weather no sight of the Pink to day I could see a long way on the Sea at 10 a Clock it rain'd and the Wind came to the South-East Friday March 4. Fair Weather this Morning the Wind at East a fine gale I went ashore and filled fresh Water the rest of the Seamen fitted rigging this day at 12 a Clock I went with both the Boats and forty Men to Seal-Island into the Harbour every Man with his Staff and Club we landed drove the Seals up together beset them round and in half an hours time killed four hundred young and old striking them on the head kills them presently as soon as they were knocked down we cut their throats that they might bleed well whilst they were hot then loading both the Boats with them I carried them to the Bay where the Tent was landed and laid them upon the Rocks to Night the Boat fetch'd them all off the great Male Seals are as big as Calfs and resemble a Lion in their shaggy Necks Heads and Faces as well as in their Roar the Females are like Lionesses before only they are hairy all over like a Horse and smooth and the Male is smooth all over his hind-parts their shape is very deformed for their hind-part tapers till it come to a point where grow two Fins or Feet two more grow out of their Breast so that they can go on Land a great pace and climb Rocks and Hills of a good height they delight much to lie and sleep ashore some are very large upwards of eighteen Foot in length and thicker about than a But in the Bilge and excessive fat there are
thousands fourteen foot long the common sort are about five foot and all very fat they 'l gape at you when you come to them as if they would devour you and 't is labour enough for two Men to kill one of the great ones with a Hand-spike which is the best Weapon for that purpose Saturday March 5. Fair Weather Wind at South-west a fine gale This Morning we went ashore to flay some Seals and cut the Bodies in good handsom pieces and salted it up well in Bulk on Deal-boards ashore that the blood might drain from it the Meat looks as well and as white as Lamb and is very good Victuals now but when 't is a little salt it will eat much better those we dress'd were all young Seals for they sucked their Dams who as soon as they come ashore bleat immediatly come her young ones and bleat about her like Lambs and suck her one old Female suckles four or five and beats away other young ones that come near whence I believe they have four or five at a time the young ones which we killed and eat were as big as a midling Dog we cut the fat off of the Great ones and made Oil of it for the Lamps and other uses in the Ship the Oil of the young ones we fried and eat with our Provisions it is very sweet and good to fry any Food with our Men will have it to be as good as Olive Oil most of my Men to day gathered of those green Pease-leaves and other Herbs for Sallads which some eat raw some boiled it is refreshing to their Bodies Sunday March 6. Blowing Weather Wind at West This day after Prayers I went ashore on the South-side of the River and travelled eight miles into the Land South-west and by West having twelve armed Men with me my Lieutenant went up the River in the Boat nine or ten miles to see for People that way my other Lieutenant went on the North-side with ten armed Men to see for People and view the Land I found in my Travels one of those great Beasts like a Deer dead and whole the Vermin had not touched him all his Back had pretty long Wooll of the colour of dried Rose-leaves and down his sides his Belly white Wooll he was as big as a small Colt he had a long Neck a Head like a Sheep so was his Mouth and Ears his Legs very long and Cloven-footed like a Deer a short bushy Tail of a reddish colour no Horns nor ever had any it was a Male I believe these Beasts are Peruvian Sheep Guianacoes I had his Paunch opened and searched for the Bezoar-stone in it and in the Pipe to the Stomach I turned them inside outward but found none I had heard West-Indian Spaniards say that they have taken the Bezoar-stone of Guianacoes and therefore opened this which I take to be the same Beast In travelling to day I saw several herds of them sometimes ten thirty or forty together I could not get near enough to shoot at them they neigh like young Horses and so wander away I saw nine Ostriches but they would not suffer me to come within shot of them I let the Greyhound at them but they out-run him up the Hills we saw a Fox a wild Dog and five or six Hares of which the Greyhound killed one they are shaped like English Hares and much larger and instead of a Tail have a little stub about an inch long without Hair on it they have holes in the ground like Coneys no Woods to be seen only a few Bushes like White-Thorns The Land is dry of a sandy gravelly Soil in large rounding Hills not very high but in Downs and Valleys bearing nothing but Grass here and there are gullies of fresh Water in the Valleys which is made in the Winter-time when the Snow dissolves I saw several places of salt Water in the Land which is occasioned by the natural saltness of the Earth here are no Fruits nor Herbs When I was at the farthest and on a Hill I could not see any sign of People or Woods but still Hills and Valleys as far as we could descry no Birds to be seen but Kites which are like those in Europe and small Birds like Sparrows and Linnets some Flies and Humble-bees here we saw some small four-footed Animals running in the Grass speckled-Grey shaped like a small Creature in England called an Eft Newt or Lizard no Adder nor Snake nor any venomous Creature Cattle would live here very well such as Horses Cows Sheep Goats c. Evening growing upon us I returned to the Ship and 't was within Night when we got aboard our Boat and ten a Clock when we entered the Ship I found on Board my Lieutenant that went up the River but they which went on the North-side were not come back up the River they saw five small Islands which had Sea-fowls on them and Bushes for fewel the River grows broader upwards and has several Rocks in it on the shoar they saw Guianacoes Ostriches and Hares no People Fire or Smoak they saw where People had been and Fires made and Muscles and Lumpets roasted no fresh Water nor Wood nor any Metal or Mineral the Land hilly with Grass on it At twelve a Clock to Night those that went on the North-side came aboard they had been about eight miles into the Land North-west and saw no People but found where People had been and made Fires in the Grass and Grass laid to fire the Bushes also where some had lain on open places and set little Bushes in Half-moons to shelter them from the Weather on the top of a Hill they made a fire with Grass to see if any would answer them they sat down by it all day but could see none made any where else the Land is in rounding large Hills not very high but like Downs as the Coast of Yorkshire about Burlington no Woods nor Trees seen nor fresh Water here and there a Bush growing in a Valley indifferent good Grass the Soil gravelly and sandy and some ridges of Rocks they saw Guianacoes Ostriches Hares and Kites several little Creatures like Efts no kind of Fruit or Berry Mineral or Metal I charged them as they travelled in any Gullies where Water had run to search for grains of Gold or other Metal c. for Gold is found in grains in such Gullies and much Gold is found in the Land on the other side not two hundred Leagues distant from us much Salt-peter hangs on the Earth where Water has been in a kind of Flower the plashes of Water they met with were as salt as Brine which the Earth made I saw Smelts here eighteen Inches long lying dead on the Shore but hitherto have not seen one Oyster or other shell-Fish Crawfish Lobster or Crab though 't is possible the place may have 'em all Whilst we were standing by the Water-side a Seal chased on shore a Fish as large as a Mackrel
Worshipping any thing either Sun or Moon but came directly to us at our first going on Land making a noise and every Man his Bow ready strung and two Arrows a Man in their Hands their Bows are about an Ell long and their Arrows are near eighteen Inches long and neatly made of Wood and headed with Flint-stones neatly made broad-Arrow-fashion well fastned to the Arrow and the other end is feathered with two Feathers and tied on with the Gut of some Beast when it is green and moist the Bow-string is some twisted Gut These People have very large mungrel Dogs much like the race of Spanish Dogs and are of several colours I did not see any other domestick Creature they have neither could I at this time see their Boats for they lay at the other end of the Island next the Main they waited on this Island for an opportunity of fair Weather to go to the other Islands for Penguins there being great numbers of those Birds on the southermost of the three Islands and many other white-breasted Divers October 30. To Night I anchored in a small Bay in eleven fathom Water gravelly Ground half a mile off the Shore no Tide runs here as to thwart up a Ship the Water riseth and falls perpendicular ten Feet This Bay hath two Rivulets of fresh Water in it and good Timber-trees of eighteen Inches through and near forty Feet long the Wood is much lik a Beech here are wild Currant-trees and many such like Bushes the Woods are very thick and green and much old Wood lies on the Ground so as there is no travelling into the Woods I was a-shore looking to and fro here three hours I called this Fresh-water Bay this is near nine Leagues to the Southward of Sweepstakes Bay Sand-point is a mean low Point lies out more than the other Points of the Shore and few Trees grow on it It is six Leagues from Fresh-water Bay to Port Famen South and North from the one to the point of the other that nearest Port Famen cannot be seen as you come from the Northward till you come to bring the Point S. Anne up on the Northwest of you for the Bay lies up in a little hook North-west and the Land on the West-side of the Bay is low in a Point and sandy and some Grass grows on it and much drift-Wood lies on it like a Carpenters-yard a little within Land from the Water-side grow brave green Woods and up in the Valleys large Timber-trees two foot throughout and some upwards of 40 Feet long much like our Beech-timber in England the Leaves of the Trees are like green Birch-tree leaves curiously sweet the Wood shews in many places as if there were Plantations for there are several clear places in the Woods and Grass growing like fenc'd Fields in England the Woods being so even by the sides of it and on Point Saint Anne as you come sailing from the Northward you will see good Bushes and tall Trees grow on the very point of it This Point is rocky on the Shore-side but no danger lies or it you may be bold on it to get into Port Famen Bay Here is good Wooding and Watering and good catching of Fish with the Seyne or Net I haled above five hundred large Fishes a-shore at one hale much like to a Mullet all scaly Fishes here are many large Smelts or twenty Inches long and many Anchovies and some small made Scates Here is great plenty of Fish so much as we feed wholly on it and salt up much of the Mullets and Anchovies Here grow many Trees of good large Timber forty Inches through the Leaves are green and large much like Bay-tree Leaves in England the rind is grey on the out-side and pretty thick rined this Rind or Bark of these Trees if you chew it in your Mouth is hotter than Pepper and more quicker it is of a spicy smell when it is dry I cut of the Bark and made use of it in my Pease and other Provisions instead of Spice and found it very wholesom and good wee steeped it in our Water and drank it and it gave the Water a pretty flavor There grow of these Trees in the Woods in many places in the Streight on both Shores and on the Coasts on both sides of Patagonia before your enter them This may be the Winter-bark of the Shops which has an Aromatick pepper-like or spicy tast Port Famen lies in the Lat. of 53 d. 35 m. South and in Longitude West from the Lizard 68 d. 9 m. and Meridian distance 1092. Leagues West as my Account is in my Sailing this Voyage I give no credit to the plain Sailing therefore this Meridian distance signifies very little as to Navigation I travelled in many places but could not see any Fruit-trees or Oak or Ash or Hasel or any Timber like ours in England Here are but two sorts or Timber in all these Woods and one is the Pepper-rind Tree which is indifferent Wood and the other is the Timber much like Beech Here are the best and biggest Trees in all the Streights here are Trees of two foot and an half through and between thirty and forty feet long there may be great Planks cut out of them I could not see any grains of Metal of Mineral in any place and I looked very carefully in Gullies and places where Water had guttered Here are some Herbs to be plucked up as we boiled for Salleting and green Grass with it which relished pretty well The Land in the Woods is dry and of a gravelly and sandy Soil and some places good brown Earth it is bad travelling in the Woods for old Trees and Under-woods the Woods trent all up on the sides of the Hills the Land all about on the North-west and West of Port Famen trents up to very high Hills and the In-land is very high Hills for we can see the tops of them all barren and ragged peeping over those Mountains next to the Shore-side much Snow lies continually on them the Land on the South-shore is very high and peaked I saw many Ducks and brant-Geese on the Shore-sides and in the fresh Waters together with some Whales spouting in the main Channel I do verily believe that in these Mountains there is some Metal either Gold or Copper for the Man that went aboard pointed up to the Mountains and spake to me when I shewed him my Ring These People eat up the Provision which was carried to them and greased themselves all over with the Oil and greased their Skin-Coats with it I made signs to them to go and get some Gold and bring it to me some of them went away to their Boats the rest sat still on the Grass talking one to another and pointing to the Ship Their Language is much in the Throat and not very fluent but uttered with good deliberation I could not perceive but only the younger were obedient to the elder and the Women were in obedience to
firma not far from Cartagean The most Gold in all the Land of America is in Chile as what is known at this time But I find the Spaniards have but little knowledge of the Land all along to the Southward from Baldavia to the Streights Mouth as far as I can understand by them excepting at the Island of Castro There they have a Settlement and on the Main against Castro at a place called Orsono At these two places they have good store of Gold and there are many Indians but farther Southerly than Castro they know nothing of the Country or of the Sea-Coast Castro lieth in the Latitude of 43 d. 30 m. the South end of the Island and the North end lies in the Latitude of 41 d. 40 m. It is a fine Island and near the Main there grows good Wheat on it The Spaniards are but few in number there but there are many Indians and those too valiant and of a large stature but not Giants as I understand These Indians have Wars with the Spaniards and will not suffer them to search the Country for Wealth A Ship brought from Lima Provisions for the City of Baldavia and the Forts and Cloaths and Ammunition and Wines and Tobacco and Sugar and she lades away from Baldavia Gold and Bezoar Stone and red Wool c. and Indian Slaves that the Spaniards take here in these parts they carry them to Peru and make perpetual Slaves of them there and the Indians of Peru they bring hither and make Soldiers of them against the Chile-Indians of which Soldiers there are many hereabout whom my Men saw when they were at the Fort. There were about thirty Indians and Musteses Soldiers there and some sixteen white Men who were Officers Moreover the Spaniards make use of the Peru-Indians to Trade with the Chile-Indians for Gold although they are at Wars For they of Chile without doubt are desirous of Trade whereby they may furnish themselves with Knives and Scissers and Combs c. which are wanting among them as also with Arms that many times by stealth are sold to them although they be prohibited Traders will be dealing so as they can get benefit they do not consider the future danger by its means provided it miss them at the present I asked them how far it was to Baldavia they answered me three Leagues and that the Boats could go up to it and that it was situated by the side of the River and the Plains and that there were five great Ordnances in a Fort to command the City and that there were one thousand Inhabitants in the City of all sorts of Men Women and Children I asked him if there were any passage by Land from Baldavia to the other parts of Chile they said there was and they sent every Week but they went with good Guards to go secure from the Indians Then I asked them if they built Shipping here they said no but at Velperrazeo they did build great Ships I asked them who lived in the Island of Mocha they said Indians many Men and Women and that they were Poco amigo ' s to them in English they were but small Friends to the Spaniards There are many Sheep Goats Hogs and Hens which the Indians will sell for Hatchets Knives and Beads As to the Island of St. Mary the Spaniards are Masters of it and have a Fort on it with five Guns but few Spaniards live there it is plentiful of Provisions as Hogs and Sheep and Corn and Potatoes and they said there is some Gold that the Indians have on the Island of Mocha but they will not part from it The Spaniards did not care for answering me to such things as I would gladly have heard of these parts for I laid the Draught of all that Coast on the Table before them and asked them who lived at this Port and who lived at that at some places they would say the Spaniards lived there and at some the Indians but they did not care to answer my desires but frame other Discourses to wave mine I find that they are but little acquainted on the Coasts to the Southward of Baldavia they say they have Spaniards living on the Island of Castro and that much Corn grows there more especially European Wheat and that on the Main there are Spaniards living at a place called Orsono which is against Castro and that there they have Gold and there are many Indians I asked him if Shipping could go in between Castro and the Main they could not tell me or would not but they said some Ships went thither which come from Lima with Furniture for the People The Anchoring at the Island of Mocha is on the North-north-east part of it in a sandy Bay in eight Fathom Water near the Shore a North-east Wind is the worst Wind for the Road on the South-side of Mocha there lies a ledg of Rocks and some broken Rocks on that part of the Island scattered from the Shore The Anchoring at the Island of St. Mary is on the North-side in a fine sandy Bay in eight or nine Fathom Water a fine Birth from the Shore the North-north-west Wind is the worst Wind for that Road. There is Wood and fresh Water on both the Islands as the Spaniards report The Tides are but mean on the Coast and the Flood comes from the Southward and rise about eight or nine feet Water The Island of Mocha lies in the Lat. of 38 d. 30 m. South The Island of St. Mary lies in the Lat. of 37 d. 14 m. South They have Apples and Plums and Pears and Olives Apricocks Peaches Quinces Oranges Lemmons and many other Fruits There are also Musk-Melons and water-Melons c. These Spaniards report it to be the finest Country in the whole World and that the people live with the greatest Luxury of any on the Earth they enjoy their Health with so much delight and have so much Wealth and Felicity that they compare the Land to Paradise abounding above other Countries with all Delights for Mankind I saw a good Testimony of the healthiness of the Country for these four Men who are on Board are as well-complexioned Men as ever I saw in my days and the People a-shore both Men and Women of the Spaniards are well-complexioned People of a ruddy colour and seem to be mighty healthy Some of the Men are very corpulent and look as if they came from a very plentiful Country where there is great store of Provisions and abundance of Gold and Silver December 17. 1670. There went a-shore in the Boat eighteen of my best Men I had in the Ship and Men of good Observation to inspeâ— into matters of this Concern which I had acquainted them with as touching the manner of the Harbour and the Fortifications the Spaniards have and the disposition of the People and that it was my whole desire to have Conference with the Natives of the Country that are at Wars with the Spaniards if by
Kent Hugh Cooe Trumpeter aged twenty eight Years and born in Wappen Thomas Highway Linguist aged thirty five Years and born in Barbary of Moorish Parents He turned Christian and lived in London This Thomas Highway is a Tawny-Moor he speaks the Spanish Tongue very clear for he had lived formerly at Cadiz with an English Merchant All these four were very healthy sound Men and of good Presence and Spirit which gives me great hopes that they will live to give an Account of that Country and of their Travels Cape-Gallery which is the outermost Point on the South-side of the Harbour of Baldavia lieth in the Latitude of thirty nine Degrees fifty seven Minutes South of Equinoctial as also in Longitude to the Westward of the Meridian of the Lizard of England seventy Degrees twenty Minutes according to my Account and in Meridian distance one thousand one hundred and eight Leagues West and in Longitude East from the West-mouth of Magellan Streights and Cape-Pillar two Degrees and forty Minutes and in Meridian distance 42 Leagues nearest according to my reckoning Thursday December 22. This Morning it prov'd very fair Weather at Day-light the Wind was at South-west a fresh gale the Sea indifferent smooth I plied to the Windward along the Coasts and was about three Leagues off the Shore somewhat to the Southward of Cape-Gallery out of sight of the People of Baldavia for the Cape was shut in with the Land to the Northward of the Harbour At twelve of the Clock I had a good Observation of the Sun with my Quadrant and I found my self in the Latitude of 40 degrees 3 minutes South I was then three Leagues off the Shore and could not get ground at eighty Fathom I was to the Southward of Baldivia Harbour December 31. This afternoon it blew hard at N. W. and rained I steered South-west and by South by my Compass this Afternoon and to Night Here are several sorts of Porpus Fishes in these Seas unlike ours in Europe some pied white and black and some grey and large ones Rainy Weather to Night and no Observation to be made of the Shore January Anno. Dom. 1670-71 Sunday January 1. Raw cold cloudy Weather Rain and some Hail the Wind at N. W. a stout gale and a great Sea I was much afraid that I should lose my Main-mast it fetched such way and broke the spikes that fastned the Fetches with working I steered S. S. W. to ease the Ship from rolling what I could After several Courses made from Saturday Noon till to day Noon I make the true Course to be South 39 d. 00 m. Westerly and distance sailed 105 Miles and departure West 66 Miles and difference of Longitude 101 d. 37 m. 4 tenths difference of Latitude 1 d. 22 m. 3 tenths Latitude by Account 47 d. 47 m. South Wednesday January 4. Indifferent fair Weather the Wind at North-west and sometimes at W. N. W. a fine gale I kept on my Course South Some Porpus Fishes seen to day and some Whales and Sea-Fowl many little Peterels This Morning I took the Suns Amplitude and I find the Compass to have 10 Degrees 28 Minutes variation Easterly My Course made true from Tuesday Noon till to day Noon is South distance sailed 84 Miles and the difference of Latitude is 1 d. 24 m. 8 tent Lat. by good Observation of the Sun on the Meridian 51 d. 31 m. South Meridian distance from Point-Gallery West 70 leag 1 mil. 5 ten Longitude at Noon from Point-Gallery West 4 d. 48 m. 4 ten Longitude at Noon from the Lizard West 75 d. 8 m. 4 ten Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1178 Leagues 1 Mile 5 Tenths Friday January 6. Hasey foggy Weather this Morning the Wind at W. S. W. a stout gale I steered in for to make the four Islands which I called the Isles of Direction or to make Cape Desiade My Course was E. N. E. by my Compass the Nights being but short and light for the Moon was at the full so that I could see at some time clear a League before us At four of the Clock this Morning it being fair day-light I caused the Lead to be cast forth but could not get ground at eighty Fathom I reckon my self about ten Leagues from Cape Desiade and on the Latitude of 52 d. 53 m. South A little past four of the Clock it cleared up on the East Horizon we looked well abroad and saw the four Isles called The Directions which lie at the Mouth of the Streights N. N. W. from Cape Desiade distance from thence abought eight Leagues These Islands made in four Hommaccoes like Hay-cocks when I saw them they bear N. E. of me distant about four Leagues they lie in the Latitude of 52 d. 42 m. and at five of the Clock the Islands bore North of me distant three Leagues off I sounded but could not get ground at 70 Fathoms I saw Cape Desiade it cleared up for the Fog was much on the Hills the Cape was E. S. E. of me distant near eight Leagues the tops of the ragged Hills or rocky Spires were clouded with the flying Fog so as I could not see the Cape sooner for in clear Weather the Land at Cape-pillar and Cape Desiade may be seen fifteen or sixteen Leagues it is so high and ragged I steered by Cape-pillar East and by South the Wind at West-south-west a fresh gale a great humming Sea ran here which came out of the South-west I saw the Sea break upon broken ground which lieth at least four Leagues from the point of Cape Desiade West into the Sea and many Rocks that were sunk and prints of Rocks above Water which the Sea breaketh terribly these lie off Cape Desiade about two Leagues and a League and some not half a Mile off very dangerous As I came nearer the Streights-mouth I raised the Land on the North-side by Cape Victory and the broken Islands within the Streights which I called Westminster Isle and the Lodgers Isle they make ragged in Hillocks at the first sight At nine of the Clock Cape-pillar bore South of me being distant about a Mile and an half from me No Tide or Current as I could perceive set either in or out of the Streights so as to prejudice Navigation The difference of Longitude East is 1 d. 39 m. 4 tenths the Latitude by my Account now is but 52 d. 51 m. South but formerly my Account of the Latitude of this place was South 52 d. 58 m. Meridian distance at 9 of the Clock from Point Gallery West 35 leag 00 mil. 2 10. Longitude at 9 of the Clock from Point Gallery West 2 deg 43 min. â— Longitude at 9 of the Clock from the Lizard West 73 d. 3 m. â— Meridian distance at 9 of the Clock from the Lizard West 1153 leag 00 mil. 2 10. I find but very little Tide or Current in this Sea of Mare del Zur for I am but 3 Minutes of Longitude out of my Account in
half the Ship â—t two Miles you see only the uppermost Mast at three Miles distance you see only the Flagg and when it goeth farther you have quite lost it Land and Mountains may be seen at a great distance at Sea we saw Spitzbergen at twelve Miles distance off at Sea the Country looked like a black Cloud full of white stroaks as is in the Cut D marked with a b c g h i. Near the Ice of this Sea it is coldest where the Waves are quiet and the Sea-water is so clear that at twelve and more Fathoms deep you may see the bottom There is no ground to be found near the Ice to drop an Anchor It is also to be observed that according to the colour of the Skies the colour of the Sea is changed If the Skies be clear the sea looks as blew as a Saphir if it is covered somewhat with Clouds the Sea is as green as an Emerald if there be a foggy Sun-shine it looketh yellow if it be quite dark like unto the colour of Indico in stormy and cloudy weather like black Sope or exactly like unto the colour of black Lead If the wind be quite calm one may hear beating or knocking at a great distance on the the Sea by which we also observe the Whale hears as shall be mentioned in its proper place Among the Ice the stream runs Southwards which we observed by our driving back a great way At the Muscle-Haven the stream ran Northwards Those that sail yearly to those places cannot give any certain information concerning ebbing and flowing only they have observed the water to be higher about the Land when the winds have been higher then at other times And this I have also observed that if there was an orderly or continual ebbing and flowing the Eggs of the Birds would be drowned upon the Islands Certain information concerning ebbing and flowing is not easily to be had I know no more of it then what I have written CHAP. III. Of the ICE IN the Months of April and May the west Ice breaks because it lyeth Westward which drives dispersed in the Sea by the Island of John Mayen and reacheth to Spitzbergen where at that time it was firm still as you may see in the Plate A marked with e. The difference between the Ice of Spitzbergen and that of our Country is that it is not smooth there so as to slide upon it Neither is it so clear nor transparent nor so sharp and cutting but a great deal harder and is not easily broke or split but it looketh likest unto the Ground-Ice of the Rivers in our Country or like unto Loaf-sugar Where the Ice is fixed upon the Sea you see a snow-white brightess in the Skies as if â—he Sun shined for the Snow is reflected by â—he Air just as a Fire by Night is but at a â—istance you see the Air blew or blackish â—here there is many small Ice-fields that are 〈◊〉 the Meadows for the Seales you see no lustre 〈◊〉 brightness of the Skies The Sea dasheth against these Ice-fields â—hich occasioneth several fine Figure not 〈◊〉 they are naturally framed so but just as 〈◊〉 flowers on our Glass-windows get all 〈◊〉 of figures for these are framed by the â—shing of the Sea like unto Mountains Steeples Tables Chappels and all sort of Beasts These Ice-fields are a great deal deeper under water then they are high above it and are of a paler colour under water then above the top of them might be called the Kernel and Marrow of the Ice because the colour is much deeper then that of the other The highest colour is delicate blew of the same colour with the blewest Vitriol somewhat more transparent yet not so clear as that in our Country which you may see through let it be never so thick it is as hard as a stone and it is not easily split or cleav'd because it is spumgy like unto a Punice stone Among this Ice the Ships sail up and down until they come to bigger Ice fields for the small ones incumber the Sea that the Ships sail often against them and perish for when the winds arise the Waves drive against the Ice-fields as if it was against Rocks and beat the Ships to pieces When we are passed by these small Ice-fields that swim at a great distance from one another then we sail in between them and draw a small Ice-field behind the stern of our Ship that it may be the sooner stopt and kept from swift sailing without letting the Sails strike for else it might easily run against an Ice-field Every Ships Master is left to his free-will whether he will sail into the Ice because in the Spring the Whales are in great numbers seen there in the West-Ice as they call it The Masters do not willingly sail in amongst the Ice when it is dark or foggy or stormy which must be expected in the Spring and the small sheets of Ice swim up and down in the Sea which the Skippers must avoid lest they lose their Ships It may seem something strange that they sail so often to the Ice and back again but there is the same reason for it as is in hunting after Deer if we do not find Whales in one place we must seek them in others for the fortune in ketching of Whales is like the Chances of Gaming and there is no great understanding required to find them some see and catch more then they desire and others but at half a mile distant from them see not one which is very common When they go in amongst the Ice the men stand ready with great Ice-hooks to keep them off that the Ship may not run against them The farther you sail into and amongst the Ice the greater Ice-fields you shall foe so that you cannot look over them for about the West as they call it are larger Ice-fields to be seen then about Spitzbergen quite white at the top covered with Snow so that there is but ill walking upon them because you fall deep into the Snow See A marked with l and B marked c. The prints of the Bears footing we saw on the shoar of the Ice-fields for they seek their Prey in the water which is the dead Carkases of the Whales the Foxes generally accompany them for their choicer food of Birds is here scarcer then at Spitzbergen for they flock not together but fly singly When they sail some Miles into the Ice where there is pretty large Ice-fields they joyn their Ships to them with great Ice-hooks fastned to strong Cables where they lie at Anchor several Ships about the same Ice-field but they rather chose to be alone because they are an hindrance to one another in Whale-catching and the hunting of them from one to another maketh them shie Amongst the Ice we find no great Waves but it is pretty smooth even when it is somewhat stormy All the danger is from one Ice-field being bigger then the other
and the little ones swiming faster then the great ones which often causeth a stoppage so that they crowd upon one another not without great danger of the Ships which are often catcht between and broken by them See the Plate B at a. The Seamen hinder the pressing on of the Ice as much as in them lieth with great Ice-hooks but what small help this affordeth them daily experience testifies sufficienty In fair weather the mischief is as soon done as in tempestuous because the Ice drives in the Sea either with the stream or wind as either of them is the more prevalent crashing and grinding against each other whence the danger arises to the Ships for after such a manner many Ships perish See Plate B. They say that a dead Whale tied to the Ship is the best defence against the Ice Others hang the Tails and Fins about their Ship which way is not to be rejected for it is of great use to them to prevent the danger of the squeezing of the Ice they have examples that in such squeezing of the Ice a dead Whale hath preserved them The Ice rises out of the Sea as high as a Mountain the striking of them together makes so great a noise that one can hardly hear his own words and from this joyning together of the Ice the great Ice-hills are made that drive up and down in the Sea Other great Ice fields are not so high as the Ice hills yet notwithstanding they are hardly ever quite plain and without a Hill you see the Ice under water as deep as you can see It is all of a blew colour but the deeper you look the purer blew you see which beautiful colour changes with the Air for if it be rainy weather this colour groweth paler I also have often seen the Ice underneath the water very green the occasion whereof was the troubled Air whence the Sea assumeth this colour I wonder that upon the largest Ice-fields no high Mountains are seen as are seen where the Ice grinds and dashes one against the other I am of opinion that the Ice melts towards the bottoms for one may see it spungy for else if one would compute from the beginning it must have reached the very ground even in the middle of the depth of the sea I have seen in Spitzbergen white Ice that was frozen quite curled it look'd just like Sugar-candy was very hard and thick and swam even with the Seas surface The Ships are not always in this danger of sqeezing for often times there is little or no Ice to be seen there although you are a great way in the place where it usually is but as soon as a wind arises you would admire from whence so great a quantity of Ice should come in less then an hours time At the greatest Ice-fields of all Ships do not always ride the safest since by reason of the bigness and the motion of the Sea these Ice-fields break not without danger When such Ice-fields break they part asunder which causeth a Whirl-pool in the Sea where all the out-parts press to the Centre and by that means the pieces of the Ice-fields raise themselves up and dash and grind against each other When we came to 71 degrees in the Month of April we saw the first Ice and so we failed up and down by the Ice until that Month was spent for so early in the year no body dares venture himself into or amongst the Ice by reason of the stormy winds and some times the Ice is still fixed and stands firm and therefore there is but a few Whales seen for underneath the Ice they cannot breathe Into the Ice we sailed at 77 degrees and 24 minutes and drove with that sheet of Ice towards the South In this Month and also in the following Month of May are the most Whales seen here which run towards the East and we follow them all along by the Ice to Spitzbergen Near to the Land smaller Ice-fields are seen because the Ice cannot give way by reason of the Land which causeth greater grinding and breaking and upon that account smaller Ice than is in the open Sea Yet for all this some greater Ice-Mountains are seen there that stand firm on the shoar and never melt at bottom but increase every year higher and higher by reason of the Snow that falls on them and then Rains that freezes and then Snow again alternately and after this manner the Icy-hills increase yearly and are never melted by the heat of the Sun at the top These Ice-Mounts change their first colour in time by the Air by Rain and by the Clouds and the fairest blew that can be is seen in the cracks of these Ice-hills From these same Ice-hills oftentimes break off great pieces that swin in the Sea and is more compact than the other Ice by far I once saw one of these pieces that was curiously workt and carved as it were by the Sea like a Church with arched Windows and Pillars the Doors and Windows hung full of Icikles on the inside thereof I saw the delicatest blew that can be imagined it was bigger than our Ship and somewhat higher than our stern but how deep it was under water I cannot exactly tell Near unto the Muscle-Haven a great Ice-hill came driving towards our Ship that was as high as our Poop and went so deep under water that it took up our Anchor which lay fifteen Fathoms deep I have also seen several others and of other figures viz. round and foursquare Tables with round and blew Pillars underneath as in Plate B marked with f the Table was very smooth and plain at the top and white with the Snow at the sides hung down a great many Icikles close to one another like a fringed Table-cloth I believe that near forty men might have sat about it I have seen of these Tables with one foot and with two or three Pillars and abundance of Seales swam about it The Dishes that furnisht this Table were a piece of Ice like an Horses head and a Swan I doubt they were but salt You must observe that this Ice becometh very spungy by the dashing of the Sea and from thence grows salt like Sea-water and thence also changeth its colour viz. from the Sea and Rain-water mixt with it for you shall commonly see the Water look blew or yellow if you walk under water with your eyes open and look upwards The other Ice as far as it is above water is of a taste like other Ice but that below the Sea salt like the Sea-water When we arrived at Spitzbergen the Ice at Rehenfelt was as yet fixed but a few days afterwards it was driven away by the winds The Ice begirts these Countries on all sides as the Wind sets either from the Island of John Mayen Old Greenland and Nova Zembla We found at this time that the Ice reached from the other side of Spitzbergen and the Ships sailed between the Ice and
and like a Mullet one of the Men took it up and dressed it when he came on Board 't was excellent good here must be a great quantity of Fish to maintain all the Seals Penguins and other Fowls that live upon nothing else and yet are all extream fat and innumerable in multitude besides what Creatures we have not seen yet I have seen Seals in this Harbour swimming with their heads above Water with large Fish in their Mouths Sunday March 13. Indifferent Weather Wind at West a fresh gale The Air cold this Morning I went up the River in my Boat with fourteen Men armed I past the Island where the brushy Bushes are and where we took the young Shags there the River grows broader near a mile from the North shore over to the South and continues that breadth four miles then it becomes narrower and turns away to the South-west at this turning is an Island of a mean height and Rocky bearing some small Bushes and Grass I went upon it and saw a Post of five foot long set up it had been the timber of a Ship with a piece of Board about a foot square nailed to it at the foot of it one of my Men took up a piece of Sheet-Lead and gave it to me it had this Inscription engraven on it MDCXV EEN SCHIP ENDE EEN IACHT GENAEMT EENDRACHT EN HOORN GEARRIVEERT DEN VIII DECEMBER VERTROKEN MET EEN SCHIP DEENDRACHT DEN X IANVARY MDCXVI C IACQVES LE MAIRE S. WILLEM CORNS SCHOVTS ARES CLASSEN IAN CORNS SCHOTS CLAES IANSSEN BAN In a hole of the Post lay a latten or tin Box which we found by a long Plug that stuck in the hole with a sheet of written Paper enclosed in it but so eaten by the rust of the Box that 't was not to be read I cut out with my Knife upon a Board the Ship 's Name and the date of the Year and Month which I nailed to the Post and brought away the Lead with me aud named the place Le Mair's Island we found on it several pieces of Boards of the Wreck of some Ship that had been burned they were drove up here by the Tide the People of the Country can't get upon this Island From hence I went on the North side of the River two miles into the Land no Trees to be seen but many Ostriches and Guianacoes in many places the Soil is marly and good the Hills not very high but plain large Downs with Grass on them all over digging in two or three places I found sandy dry ground near a foot deep then Marle In my opinion it might be made excellent Corn-ground being ready to Till 't is very like the Land on New-market Heath no People to be seen I searched the Gullies and broken Rocks for grains of Gold or Minerals but found neither I returned to the Boat again rowed farther under the shore landed and mounted asteep high Hill to view the Country on the top of this rocky Hill grow small Bushes I could see the course of the River a long way further and the Land all Grass here and there a white spot of Marle on the side of a Hill no People to be seen nor Boats on the River I came down to the Boat several Creeks run from hence a mile or two into the Land I cross'd the River to the South-east shore we made the Boar fast in a Creek in a Valley and went all hands up the Land three miles we saw many Guianacoes and Ostriches but could not come within shot of them I saw the Footsteps of five Men that had been upon the Oar I measured my Foot with them which was larger and longer by half an Inch than any of them we could not see any People it being near Night we plucked up Grass and laid it to the best advantage for shelter here we lay all Night keeping watch two by two cold Air to Night wind at West Monday March 14. Fair Weather but cold This Morning by day-light we turn'd out and marcht into the Land four miles South-west and by South we could not find any fresh Water we made a Fire on the Grass but saw no sign of any People we saw Guianacoes Hares Foxes wild Dogs pretty large and a grey Cat like an English one running up the Hills to day we caught an Armadillo the Dogs put her to ground they have holes like Coneys we soon dug her out 't was as big as a great Hedg-hog and not much unlike one the Armadillo is cased over the Body with a shell shutting one under another like shells of Armour the Dogs couls not hurt her we saw Rats in many places and a kind of Polecat with two white streaks on the Back all the rest black our Dogs killed two of them they stink much several Ostriches some Partridges and many Kites the Land in fair Hills without Wood or fresh Water the Soil a sandy Gravel with Grass all over it no Mineral or Metal seen This afternoon we returned to our Boat and went through a Creek two miles long which is dry at low Water and not more than thirty foot broad it makes a fair Island of a mean heighth plain on the top and Grass growing all over it but no Wood nor Water upon it the greatest part of it is a sandy marly Soil 't is two miles long and half a mile broad the Greyhound killed two Hares on it presently and we saw above twenty I called it Hare-Island it is adjacent to the South-shore eight miles up the River from the narrow I went down the River and went aboard this Evening cold Air Wind at West a stout Gale towards Morning it came to the North I cannot perceive the Indians have any Canoas or other Boats here March 24. Blowing Weather Wind at West We fetch'd all our things off the shore and got the Ship ready to Sail I went a-shore on the South-side to the peeked Rock and found it a natural Rock standing on a small round Hill as if it had been built there by Man it hath a Cleft on the top it as big in circumference as a But 't is near forty foot high above the Hill it stands on about it lie little lumps of Rocks I saw nothing else worth notice so I return'd to the Ship the biggest stick growing in or near this Harbour or in the Countries as far as we went which was twenty Miles would not make a Helve for a Hatchet but there are Bushes which will serve for firing at Sea before Night I had all things on Board and the Ship fitted with intent to sail next Morning and look'd along the Coasts for the Pink till I arrived at Port St. Julian's Harbour fresh Water is scarce in Port Desier Harbour in the Summer-time the places from whence I fetch'd Water are small Springs on the North-side out of which I filled near forty Tuns the first Spring is on the North-side as you enter the Harbour half a mile up a
Valley in a gully of Rocks it bears North-north-west from the lower Rock that we called Peckets Well is a mile up the River within a Bow-shot of the salt Water 't is in a gully the Land in these Valleys has very green and sweet Grass and abundance of wild Pease small Nut-galls growing on the Bushes but in no great quantity and but few Bushes Salt may be made here for on the Shore-side and on the Rocks I gathered several handfuls of good Salt March 25. Gentlemen You are by me desired to take notice that this Day I take possession of this Harbour and River of Port Desier and of all the Land in this Country on both Shores for the use of his Majesty King Charles the Second of Great Britain and his Heirs God save our King and fired three Ordnance Saturday March 26. Wind at West a stout Gale I stood to the Northward this Morning at six a Clock when the Sun appeared above the East Horizon the Moon set in the West-horizon being eclipsed at London at Elevan a Clock ten minutes in the Forenoon but here at six a Clock thirty minutes past which gives four hours forty minutes difference of time between the Meridian of London and the Meridian of Cape Blanco which Cape lies in the Latitude of 47 d. 20 m. South on the South-east Coast of America where I saw this Eclipse 70 degrees in Longitude to the Westward of the Meridian of London by this Observation I could not see the whole Eclipse the Heavens being clouded I find Cape Blanco by my account of Sailing to lie in the Longitude of 69 d. 16 m. to the Westward of the Meridian of London If the Moon had not been clouded I might have been exact in the Longitude but I presume my Account is not much out Cape Blanco lies in the Latitude of 47 d. 20 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard West 61 d. 56 m. and in Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1014 Leagues 1 Mile 6 1â— Port Desier in America lies in the Latitude of 47 d. 48 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard West 61 d. 57 m. Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1015. Leagues 2 Miles 6 10 Penguin Island or the plentiful Isles Latitude 47 d. 55 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard West 61 d. 57 m. Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1014. Leagues 2 Miles Variation of the Compass here is Easterly 17 d. 30 m. April 1. The Sweepstakes off of Seal's Bay in the Latitude of 48 d. 10 m. South on the Coast of Patagonia Saturday April 2. Fair Weather this Morning Wind at North-north-west a fine gale I filled at Day-light and steered away South-south-west and South and by West by my Compass as the Coast lies I sailed along in twenty Fathom-water black Sand distant from the shore near three Leagues this forenoon at nine a Clock I saw a small flat Island to the Westward of me about a League off the Land it lies in the Latitude of 48 d. 40 m. South the Land against it is high in large Hills and some round copling tops two Leagues more to the Southward the Land is low in a great Plain and a Beach by the Sea-side but the shore against this Island is rocky I was two Leagues East from the flat Island and had twenty three fathom black Sand I haled close in for the shore and sail'd within five Miles of it all along from this Island to Port St. Julian I sounded as I sail'd along and had 18 or 20 fathom fine black Sand the Land is low in a Valley the Sea-shore is a Beach here and there a Rock it is in a long Beach for four Leagues after you are to the Southward of the Flat-Island one League the shore lies South-fourth-west and North-north-east at the South-end of this Beach in-land are high round Hills but at the Sea-side is a steep white Cliff of an indifferent heighth with a black streak in it over the Cliff the Hill rounds up to the top having some small black Bushes growing on the side no Wood or Tree seen In this Bay is Port St. Julian the Harbour's mouth is in the middle of the Bay but you cannot see it without for one Point shutting in the other you must send your Boat in to discover the Harbour at Low-water and the Bar without for 't is a barred Harbour the Land in the Country over Port St. Julian on the West-side is high copling round Hills like blunt Sugar-loaves on the top â—is the highest Land I saw in all the Country and there are no such Hills besides on the Coast the Land is plain to the South without any Hill as far as we could see at this time this Afternoon it proved a Calm I anchored in the Bay before St. Julian in twelve fathom Water black oary Land the Harbour's mouth bearing West-south-west of me about two Leagues off I sent in my Boat to discover the Harbour and see if the Pink was there which returned to Night at six a Clock my Lieutenant told me there was a safe Harbour and Water enough for a bigger Ship but no Pink nor any sign of her having been there now I despaired of ever seeing her more after my hopes were frustrated here nevertheless I doubted not the success of my Voyage though the Company thought 't would be dangerous being a lone Ship a stormy Sea to sail in and unknown Coasts to search out and if we should happen to run aground any where could expect no relief these suspicions I soon put out of their Heads by telling them of the great Riches of the Land and that Captain Drake went round the World in one Ship when in those days there were but ordinary Navigators and was it for us to question our good fortune who beyond Comparison are better Seamen if we would put our selves in Action and for me I would expose no Man to more danger than my self in the Attempt Calm to Night I rode fast a small Tide running where I rode the Water ebb'd near three fathom perpendicular it is near nine Leagues from the Flat Island to Saint Julian South-south-west and North-north-east as the shore lies The Mouth of Port Saint Julian in Latitude 49 d. 10 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard 63 d. 10 m. and in Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1030 Leagues by an Amplitude here the Compass has varied 16 d. 10 m. East Wednesday April 13. Fair Weather Wind at West a small gale Frosty and cold Air no sign of the Pink I went ashore and haled the Seyne on the East-side at the first of the Flood we caught five hundred Fishes as big as large Mullets and much like them grey and full of Scales some as big as a Man's Leg we caught them all in four hours time returned aboard and divided them among the whole Ship 's Company they eat admirably well many good Muscles lie on the Rocks
and Oyster-shells on the Shore-side and growing in Veins on the Rocks but no Meat in them Wind at West to Night a fresh gale Monday April 18. Wind at South-west a stiff gale Cold Air and some Snow this Morning the Winter is come strong and stormy so that 't will be impossible to hold the Coast into the Streights for the Wind blows altogether from the West or West-southerly and in such Gusts as will force a Ship off the Coast This day I ordered my Purser to serve the Company Brandy-wine for their Allowance at a Quart per Week a Man I got a Boats lading of the Wood of the Country aboard for firing to Night it blew hard at South-west all the Company eat salt Seal and Penguins for their Allowance sweet and very good Meat and keeps well and long in Salt Friday April 22. Wind at South-west a stiff gale and cold Air. This Morning I went ashore on the North-west side with twenty Men to the Salt-pond which is rusted all over like a Pavement with very white and good Salt two Inches thick for two miles long in February here 's Salt enough to fill a thousand Ships we filled two Bags and laid up near two Tuns out of the Water for there was Water over the Salt which began to decay with the Rain and Weather beating on it at Night I returned aboard we brought as much Salt with us as filled a Punchion very good white Stone-salt whiter than French-Salt and of a very pleasant smell I saw some Guianacoes and Ostriches the Hills and Valleys dry Earth and Grass on them on the higher Hills lies Snow no People but many places where they had made fires and lain under a Bush for shelter no Mineral or Metal Tree or Fruit. Wednesday April 27. Close Weather and little Wind a cold Air it freezes hard the Ice bears a Man Thursday April 28. Wind at West and by South a fine gale cold frosty Weather We unrig'd the Ship and made all snug intending to Winter in this Harbour the Ice will not suffer us to pass the Streights the Winds are so stormy and generally out of the Western quarter the Nights so long and cold that the passage is impossible this Winter The Port I found safe to ride in and good refreshment to be had of Fowls as Ducks Peekes and Divers c. In the Spring I may be ready to sail to the Southward when we shall have the year before us and the Sun in the Southern Signs which will give long Days and short Nights and temperate Weather Wind at North-north-east this Evening and Rain it blew a great storm to Night the Boat sunk at the Ship 's stern and lost the Oars less Wind towards Night and veared to the West Friday May 6. Wind at West-north-west a fine gale I went a-shore on the North-west side with thirty Men and travelled seven or eight miles up the Hill saw no People the Land is great Grass-Downs in most places and on the tops of the Hills and in the Ground are very large Oyster-shells they lie in Veins in the Earth and in the firm Rocks and on the sides of Hills in the Country they are the biggest Oyster-shells that ever I saw some six some seven Inches broad yet not one Oyster to be found in the Harbour whence I conclude they were here when the Earth was formed no sign of Mine or Metal no Woods or Tree We found a good Spring of fresh Water up in the Hills it drains into salt Water-swashes We saw several Salt-water Ponds six miles in the Land made by the saltness of the Earth we saw Ostriches Guianacoes and a Fox I made a Fire on the top of the highest Hill but could see no answer I returned aboard with my Company very weary some of my Men fetched Salt to day fair Weather to Night Friday May 13. Indifferent Weather Wind at West-south-west a fine gale This day we fetched Salt a Gentleman of my Company Mr. John Wood walking on the Island of Jusice found three small pieces of Gold Wire in two Muscle-shells which Shells were made together by a green Gut-string the Gold was to the value of two shillings English and had been hammered the wire as big as a great Pin. Monday June 6. Cloudy cold Weather Wind at South-west a fresh gale This day I went a-shore with sixteen Men and travelled ten miles West into the Land the Hills there are covered with Snow 't is very cold we could not go any further for Snow and the Air is so cold that we could not endure to lie on the ground on the Hill that I was on we could see nothing but Hill beyond Hill no Woods nor Trees nor Bushes all grass Downs the Land is flat on the tops of the Hills fresh Water runs down in several places which is melted Snow and when the Water leaves running there 's no Snow I saw many Guianacoes and Ostriches no People or sign of any close by the Water-side we saw many places where they had lain on open Hills in the Snow and some places where they had killed and eat Guianacoes and Ostriches they make but small Fires with little sticks I do not find they roast their flesh at them for we saw some raw Flesh hanging to the Bones which they had gnawed with their Teeth their Fires are only to warm their Children's Fingers as we imagine I gathered some handfuls of Guianacoes Wool that lay here I am persuaded these People must needs see us travelling to and fro every day but won't come near or be seen by us they live like wild Beasts or rather worse for sometimes they must be in great want of Food here 's neither Fruit Root or Herb for it The Land is a dry gravelly Soil with Sand and in many places a Marle two foot below the Surface the Grass which is dry grows in knots not very long but thick in the Valleys the Earth is of a Petery or nitrous Nature Ostriches seen no sign of Metal or Mineral I and my Company have looked in most places where we travelled for it to Night we got down but very weary Tuesday June 7. clse dark Weather Wind at North-east and by East a fair gale a new Moon to day fine Weather to Night but cold the Stars near the Pole Antartick are very visible some of the small Stars in the Constellation of little Hydra are near the Pole Here are many good Stars near the Pole good for Observation of the first and second Magnitude the Star at the South-end of Ariadne the Star at Hydra's Head the Star in the Peacock's eye and the Stars in Tucan's bill and the Stars in Tucan's thigh and back the stars in Grus's head and wing and body but the brightest Stars are the Stars in the former foot of Centaurus and the Crosiers the other Stars are of the third fourth and fifth Magnitude The two Clouds are seen very plainly and a small black Cloud which
the foot of the Cross is in is always very visible when the Crosiers are above the Horizon as they are alway here in these Latitudes The Heavens in this South Hemisphere are as the Heavens in the North Hemisphere but no Stars within eighteen degrees of the Pole fit for Observation no Pole-star as the Star in the Tail of the little Bear is in the North the Air cold to Night but very healthy for stirring Men I have not had my Finger ached as yet a Man hath an excellent stomach here I can eat Foxes and Kites as savourily as if it were Mutton every Fox and Kite as we kill we eat which is ever now and then one killed Nothing comes amiss to our stomachs not one Man complains of cold in his Head or of Coughs Young Men well grown and of good shape are most fit for this Country it being a dry and an hungry Air and Provisions to be got with pains The Ostriches are nothing so big as the Ostriches in Barbary nor of the Colour nor Feather these are grey on the Back and shaggy Feathers of no use and the Feathers on their Bellies are whire they have long Legs and small Wings they cannot fly they have a long Neck and a small Head and beaked near like a Goose they are much like a great Turky-cock and good lean dry Meat and sweet to Night I came aboard it blew fresh at west Wednesday June 22. Wind at West-north-west a stout gale This day I went ashore on the East-side saw no People this day Mr. John Wood went ashore on the West side and three Men with him they were armed they travelled into the Land West and by North about four miles where they saw seven People of the Country on a Hill making a noise and wafting them to the Ship Our Men went up the rise of the Hill to them three of the Indian Men came to Mr. Wood with their Bows and Arrows in their Hands and a loose skin about their Bodies and a Furr-skin about their Heads and pieces of skins about their Feet and all the other parts of their bodies naked they were painted red and white on their Faces they would not come so near as to let our Men touch them but slepped back as you moved forward they continuing their noise and wafting with their Hands towards the Ship and and kept talking but no Man could understand them they repeated Ozse Ozse very often they have an harsh Speech and speak in the Throat they received any thing that you cast to them on the ground Mr. Wood gave them a Knife and a Shasâ—â— and a Neckcloath and a bottle of Brandy they would not drink Mr. Wood could not perceive any Bracelets they had or any thing about them save their Skin they are people of a middle stature and well-shaped tawny Olive-colour'd black Hair not very long they seem to be of a rude behaviour for they returned nothing for what they received nor took no notice of any thing the rest of their Company stayed at the Hill they can endure much cold for their Legs Buttocks and lower parts are naked Mr. Wood was taller than any of them and he judged the eldest of the three to be upwards of forty years old the other thirty They seemed to be very fearful they took their own time and went away into the Land Mr. Wood returned aboard and acquainted me with what he had seen This Night we saw a Fire in the Hills It blew hard to Night at West They have small Dogs with them they would not have come near our People if they had not fallen accidentally in the Hills and Valleys with them I have thought that they have heard of the cruel dealings of the Spaniards and dare not trust us Saturday July 2. Wind at West a fine gale I went a-shore on the East-side we killed a great Guianacoe with the Greyhound I looked in his Paunch for the Bezoar-stone but found nothing I travelled to and fro but saw no people I saw where People had made earthen Pots and had glased them for there lay some of their stuff run together at Night I went aboard Sunday July 3. Wind at South close Weather The Guianacoe weighed cleaved in his Quarters two hundred and fifty pounds neat He served all the Company for a days Flesh and is good Meat Tuesday July 12. Close Weather and little Wind at North and by West I went up to the head of the Harbour but saw no People There is in the Fullers-Earth Cliffs at the head of the Harbour a Vein made like rotten Ising-glass I took some out but cannot find it good for any thing I digged in the Cliff but saw nothing to be taken notice of I saw in two places pieces of floor Timbers of a Ship they have laid a long time rotting We saw that the biggest of these Bushes here have been cut down by some Christian People I saw wooden Plates and a piece of Cork and a piece of an old Oar some Christian Ship had been here formerly I lay ashore to Night Sunday July 31. Fair Weather Wind at South-west a stiff gale The Weather as cold as it is in England in the height of Winter and the Air rather sharper and dryer I have now twelve Men lame with the cold and their Legs and Thighs are turned as black as a black Hat in spots the cold having chilled the Blood yet they use bathing and stuping those places and all that they can to prevent it but it rather encreaseth on them than otherwise These are such people as I could not make stir by an meyans they that stir are as well as any Men in the World can be Tuesday August 2. Close Weather Wind at South-west a gale and cold Air. We fall on fitting of our Rigging and getting the Ship fit Here are hundreds of Guianacoes in companies near the Water-side my Greyhound is lame so that I cannot make her run also here are many Ostriches together with many green plovers at the Watercr-side and some Swans but not full so large as ours They are white save a black Head and half the Neck and Legs black Here are some white Geese as European geese the brant-Geese are some whith some black and grey The Mallards and Ducks are grey and the Teals are grey Tuesday August 16. Close Weather Wind at West and at North-west a fine gale I sent the Boat for Water to a Swash on the East-side two of my Men saw two of the People of the Country on the East-side behind a Bush my Men went toward them they went away and left a bundle of Skins under the Bush my Men made signs to speak with them but they would not stay mâ— Men did not go after them but sat down theâ— would not stay they were but of a middle stâ—ture my Men brought the Bundle aboard to shew it to me and two mungrel Dogs which were coupled together I opened the Bundle and it
was several bags of Skins with red Earth and white Earth and Soot or paint in a Bag this is the Trade they paint themselves with they had Flint-stones and Arrow-heads in the Bundle I searched the Bundle all over to see grains of Gold but could not find any There were Bracelets of Shells and bits of Sticks and braided Thongs and Arrows and Muscle-shells and Armadillo-shells and a small point of a Nail in a stick for a Bodkin Their Skins were pieces of Seal-skins and pieces of Guianaco-skins sewed together with small Guts all very old and full of holes and smelt of grease There were pieces of Flints made fast with a green Gut in the split of a Stick which they hold fast to knock their Arrow-heads into shape There were also pieces of Sticks to get Fire with This was all that was in the Bundle it was made fast with Leather-thongs braided round like Whip-cord and the Dogs were coupled with such strings The Muscle-shells are their Knives I put all things up in the Bag and made it fast Their Dogs are much of the Race of Spanish dogs a good large mungrel Cur but very tame any Man might handle them they were grey in colour and painted red in spots they were very lean there were two grcat Staves of four foot long which was tough Cane in short joints I carried them a-shore next day Tuesday August 30. Foggy close Weather this morning Wind at North. We travelled away West into the Land ten or twenty miles farther The Land all dry with Grass and Bushes in some places like Thorns the Hills high and many and Snow on the tops no Woods nor Trees to be seen Fresh-water comes running out of the Hills in fine Rivulet no Fruit many sedgy Bushes grow on the Brink and brave green Grass and a green Herb of a pretty strong hot taste some Teal in the Water and Water-birds this is all I saw about the Rivulet Many large Ponds in the Country but salt Water in those Ponds we saw Fowls like Herons but all red in the Valleys we saw hundreds of Guianacoes in a company and twenty Ostriches some Heres and some Partridges greyer and bigger than ours some Snipes and small Birds several Penne-wrens we saw several Kites and small Hawks and Owls we caught two Armadilloes I saw two Foxes and a wild Dog and many brant-Geese the Land is in Hills and Valleys as far as we could see and bad travelling on foot the Soil is gravelly and dry sand of a Salt-petre nature the Grass in some places long and dry and in some places short and dry the Hills are rounding aloft like large Downs We red Earth in some places such as the Indians use we saw the Footsteps of people in many places in the Clay and places where they had been and had killed Guianacoes and made a fire there I gathered Guianacoes-Wooll and Ostriches Feathers were scattered about the place and Bones there lay the Skulls of three People no flesh on them they were very clean and no larger than the Skulls of European Men smooth and even Teeth close set one of those Skulls was broken Whether these people be Man-eaters or not I cannot tell I judge they have Wars one with another by reason here are so few People in this great Land and food enough to live on and the Land all clear and good Pasturage for Cattle and no Mountains in all the Land there are Plains and grassy Meadows here wants only Wood to build with it that were here it would be as good a Land as any part of America for the Counrry is very healthy This Afternoon it rained and was very thick and foggy so as we could not tell which way to go although we had a Compass with us for there is no going into the Land without one because a Man will mistake his way the Country is so open in great Plains and Downs We were very much wet and cold We got to Bushes and there made a Fire and dried our selves we stayed here all Night we neither heard nor saw any thing to Night Tuesday September 1. 1670. Close hasey Weather the Wind at North a small gale so as I could not Sail this day we tried for Fish but caught none the Water is so cold I was on the Land when I was at the farthest twenty five miles West-north-west from the Harbour-mouth and all things as I saw I have mentioned excepting some small Creatures like Efts which run in the Grass no manner of Snake or venomous Creature have I seen in this Country here are some Earth-worms and Caterpillers and other Buggs but few in number no wild Beast of prey or any other thing to annoy the Inhabitants but Cold and Hunger Here lies a large Country open to receive any Inhabitants from forein Parts and large enough to satisfie the Undertakers The Land would produce European Grain if planted here and breed Cattle September 16. I considering my Men being very weak thought it most fit to go for Port Desier and there to refresh the Men for I knowing there I could have what Penguins and Seals I would have which are good Provisions also I do intend to salt up a quantity of each to carry to Sea with me to lengthen out my Provisions This Forenoon I steered from St. Julian North-north-east and made what Sail I could to get to Pert Desier This Night it was a small gale and veered to the West-south-west I judge it best to make my easie Sail in the Night for fear of running up with the Eady Stone-Rocks before day-light Wednesday September 21. Fair Weather to day the Wind veerable round the Compass This Morning I had both the Boats leden with Seals and Penguins and Penguin-eggs ten Men may kill ten thousand Penguins in less than an hours time the Seals and Penguins are numberless a Man cannot pass on the Island for them This Evening I got on board and landed our lading ashore fair Weather to Night The Eggs are very good Nourishment and the Fat serves for Oil to the Lamps Thursday September 22. Fair Weather Wind at West This day I divided the Eggs amongst the Men we skinned the Seals and the Penguins and salted the Flesh in bulk on the Rock and covered it to keep the Wind from it good Weather and little Wind to Night Friday September 30. The Wind at North this Morning this forenoon it came to the South-east and blew hard and rained This day I went up the River about ten miles and Don Carolus with me and ten Men to see for People we lay out all Night on the South-side but saw no People this Night the people of the Country came to our little Well which is up in the Valley and stole an Iron Pot and three suits of Cloaths of the Mens that were laid there a drying with some other Linnen but did not meddle with the Beads which are hung up on a Pole on the Hills and they will
not come near it nor meddle with it The People of the Country have made in a Valley the form of the Ship in Earth and Bushes and stuck up pieces of sticks for Masts and redded the Bushes all over with red Earth the Model I imagine is to record our Ship for they cannot have any Records but by imitation This Fancy we let alone untouched only I laid a string or two of Beads on it and came away close Weather to Night These People must certainly have received some injury in former times from some People that have been here in Shipping otherwise they would come in sight of us or else they have heard of the cruel dealings of the Spaniards toward the Indians where they lived near I have used all endeavours possibly by fair means to have Conference with them but all is in vain Tuesday October 11. The Wind at West-south-west a stout gale very cold Hail and sleety Snow to day Our Men are all in good health and are lusty and fat those wihch had the Scurvy are got very well with eating of fresh Meat and such green Herbs as they can get on the shore as green Pease-leaves and such trade they mince it fry it with Eggs and Seal-oil and it hath raised every Man in as good health as they were at our coming out of England We fare very well and have great plenty of good Provisions Here is Provision enough of Seals and Penguins if salt be plenty to lade Ships I can confidently say that on the Island of Penguins there are more Seals and Penguins at this present than three hundred Tuns of Cask can hold when dressed and salted besides what are going off and coming on if any Men should have occasion for provisions of Flesh If they have Salt here they may furnish themselves with what quantity shall seem fit for them and I can assure them it will last four Months sweet if not longer if care be taken in bleeding and dressing and salting as I have prescribed before the Salt may also be had at Saint Julian's Salt-pond in Summer-time also I believe that Salt may be made at Port Desier in the Summer-time for here is some dried Salt on the holes of the Rocks Here are several Flats where Men may make Pits and let in Salt-water and so make Salt as I have seen in other places The Penguin is a Fowl that lives by catching and eating of Fish which he dives for and is very nimble in the Water he is as big as a brant-goose and weighs near about eight pounds they have no Wings but flat stumps like Fins their Coat is a downy stumped Feather they are blackish grey on the Backs and Heads and white about their Necks and down their Bellies they are short legged like a Goose and stand upright like little Children in white Aprons in companies together they are full-necked and headed and beaked like a Crow only the point of their Bill turns down a little they will bite hard but they are very tame and will drive in herds to your Boats-side like Sheep and there you may knock them on the head all one after another they will not make any great hast away Here are a great many Sea-Pies and Ducks and Ox-Birds and Sea-Mews and Gulls and white Sea-Pigeons and white-breasted Divers and Dobchicks October 13. I weighed and sailed out of Port Desier standing Southward Octob. 16. I was in Lat. 49 d. 8 m. South Octob. 19. I passed by the Cape called Beachy-Head by our Men and the Hill of St. Ives Lat 50 d. 10 m. The Compass has variation 16 d. 37 m. Easterly The Land here makes in a Bay where the River of St. Cruce goes in Octob. 21. We passed by Cape Fair-weather in 51 d. 30 m. South-Lat Here goes on the River of Gallegoes Octob. 22. We came to Cape Virgin-Mary at the entrance of the Streight of Magellan Cape Virgin-Mary at the North-entrance lies in the Latitude of 52 d. 26 m. And in Longitude from the Lizard in England West 65 d. 42 m. Meridian distance form the Lizard in Leagues West 1062. Leagues Variation of the Compass here I find to be Easterly 17 Degrees Here is Anchoring all about this Part of the Streights in the fair way from Cape Virgin-Mary till you come into the Narrow I did not find much Tide any where hereabout but in the Narrow and there the Tide runs stronger than it does in the Hope a good matter the floud Tide sets into the Streights and the Ebb sets out it keepeth its course as on other Coasts it is six hours Floud and two hours Ebb it riseth and falls near four Fathom perpendicular it is an high Water here on the change day of the Moon at eleven of the Clock as far as I could perceive Many beds of Rock-weed are driving to and fro here This day at two of the Clock I was a-breast of Point Possession I steered from thence West-north-west about two Leagues and then West and West-south-west and South-west and by South rounding by the North-shore As I shoaled my soundings I had 22 and 18 and 16 and 12 and 9 Fathoms sandy and sometimes gravelly Ground and pebble Stones I sailed rounding the shore being unacquainted and could not tell certainly where the Narrow lay for it was shut in one Land with the other so as I could not see the opening I was open of the Narrow at five a Clock having a fine gale at North-north-east I steered in South-west and by South into the chops of it but could not get past a League into it the Tide being bent out and run so strong as I could not stem it I was in danger of running the Ship against steep Rocks which lie in the North-side the taking a shear with the Tide and the Wind was a fresh gale at North-north-east There grew long Rock-weed on the Rocks I went and sounded over them and had five foot Water on them and fourteen Fathom by the side of them next the Channel they come trenting from the point of the Narrow of the North-side a mile off At six of the Clock the Wind came to the North at eight of the Clock it came to the North-west it fell very dark and rained much I was forced to fall back again out of the Narrow as well as I could the shore I could not see it was so dark it fell a flat Calm I finding twenty five Fathom Water pebble Stones and oary I anchored and rode all Night little Wind at South-west and dark It is eight Leagues from the first Narrow to the second and something better the Course from one to the other is West and by South and East and by North. This Reach from the first Narrow to the second is seven Leagues broad from the North-shore to the South-shore it shews like a little Sea when one comes into it for we could not see to the second Narrow till I had sailed therein three
the Men for I took the Mens Coats and put about the Women but the Men would not suffer them to keep the Coats long and themselves to be naked but took the Coats from the Women and put them about themselves I proffer'd them to exchange one of my Lads for one of theirs and they laughed but the Indian Lad would not go with me but hung back I gave to the Men Knives and Fish-hooks and to the Lads Jews-trumps and Pipes and to the Women Looking-glasses and Beads I did this to gain their loves and in hopes to have Trading with them for the future they refus'd Brandy Cape Froward is the southermost Land of the great Continent of America and it is very high Land on the back-side of it the Face is steep up of a Cliff of Rocks and it is blackish grey of a good height and deep Water very near it I sounded with my Boat close to it and had forty Fathom A Man may lay a Ship close to the face of the Cape for there is Water enough there is no Ground in the Channel at two hundred Fathoms and but little Tide or any ripling as I saw but a fair Channel to sail throughout of three Leagues broad from the North-shore to the South-shore It is best for a Ship to keep nearer the North-shore than the South-shore for the Winds are more generally of the Western Quarter Cape Froward in Magellan Streights lies in the Latitude of 53 d. 52 m. South And in Longitude West from the Lizard in England 68 d. 40 m. West And in Meridian distance in Leagues 1099. and two Miles West The Compass hath sixteen degrees of Variation Easterly at Cape Froward As to the Firlining Points I cannot say any thing I wanted a Needle November 4. 1670. I was in Wood's Bay called so by my Mate's Name November 5. I was abrest of Cape-Holland near which lies Cape Coventry and Andrew's Bay also Cordes and Fostcues Bay Cape and Port Gallant but for a more exact Situation of the several Promontories Bays Ports Rivulets Soundings c. I refer the Reader to the large Draught of the Magellan Streights drawn by my own Hand on the place A-brest of the Bay two Leagues off is the Island which I called Charles-Island and Monmouth-Island more to the West-ward is James-Island and Ruperts-Island and the Lord Arlingtons-Island and the Earl of Sandwich's-Island and Secretary Wren's Island this Reach I called English Reach a League more to the West-ward of Fostcues Bay is Cape-Gallant The Streight shews now as if there were no farther passage to the Westward for the South Land rounds up so much to the North-Westward that it shuts against the north-North-Land to a Man's sight At this distance I saw two large openings into the south-South-Land one opposite to Charles-Island the other more to the Westward up of the round South Bite there I saw many Whales spouting that place I called Whales-Bay I saw several Brant-geese and Ducks here I left in the Indians Houses Beads and Knives in hopes of further Commerce I saw on the South-side a Fire made in the Grass by the Natives From the pitch of Cape-Froward to the pitch of Cape-Holland the Streight lies in the Channel West and by North nearest and is distant full five Leagues and from the pitch of Cape-Holland to the pitch of Cape-Gallant the Streight lies in the Channel West and by North a little Northerly and is distant eight Leagues From the pitch of Cape-Gallant to a low Point three Leagues to the Westward the Streight lies in the Channel Northwest and by West a little Northerly This Reach is not more than two miles broad from the North-shore to the Islands which I called The Royal Isles when I was a-brest of the Westermost Island which I called Rupert's-Island I being on the middle of the Channel with the Ship shot off one of my Sakers with a shot and the shot lodged close to the Islands side This low Point a brest of Rupert's-Island on the North shore I called Point-Passage This Evening at six of the Clock I was shot past Point-Passage half a mile to the Westward of it having a fine Easterly gale Monday Noveomber 7. Cloudy gusts foggy Weather the Wind at West and sometimes at North-west I rode fast all day close aboard the shore This Afternoon I went in my Boat over to the South-side opposite to Elizabeth's-Bay at the Point called Whale-point for the many Whales spouting thereby I travelled up the Hills two miles but could not see any Gold or Metal the Land very irregular and Rocky with mossy kind of Grass growing on it and very boggy and rotten for I thrust down a Lance of sixteen feet long into the Ground with one hand very easily Here grow many Juniper Trees some of a foot throughout the Wood not very sweet Here I saw many brant-Geese and Ducks much Snow on the inland Mountains so as I could not travel any farther I returned down to the Boat again I saw where the Natives had been by the evening of the Grass but I could not have a sight of any Here are many good Muscles on the Rocks of five Inches long and good Fish in them and many seed Pearls in every Muscle Here are also large Limpets and Sea-eggs among the Rocks All the Ripling is not worth the taking notice of for it is but an hours time on both Tides Ebb and Floud when the Tide runs strong neither are the Tides any thing prejudicial to the Navigation of the Streight but rather advantagious to help to turn from Road to Road either way For I have had a benefit of them in plying from place to place The Weather indifferent this Afternoon I went a-shore after I had done Sounding but saw no People nor any Metal the Woods very thick and several Trees of the hot Bark the other Trees much like Beech-timber some Ducks and brant-Geese seen on the Shore-side The Streight in this Reach between Elizabeth's Bay and St. Jerom's River is about two Leagues broad and high Land on the South-side which hath several brave Coves on it like the Wet-dock at Deptford and safe to lay Ships in them from either much Wind or any Sea This Bay I called Muscle-Bay for in it there are many and great plenty of good Muscles The Shore-sides are rocky steep too in most places no Ground in the main Channel at an hundred Fathom also in the Bays on the South-side it is deep Water and small Islands lie in the Bays and close along the South-shore lie small Islands Here are many Whales and I saw many Penguins and some Seals The Shores are woody on both sides but ragged Timber and boggy Ground the tops of the Hills bare Rocks and irregular several streams of Snow-water run down in the Cliffs of the Hills two Leagues to the Westward of Elizabeth's-Bay On the North-shore the Land is low and woody near the Water-side and up of a Valley in
this low-Low-land In this Valley there runs a fresh Water-River I went it with my Boat It is but shallow at low Water hardly Water enough for my Boat Here I saw several Arbors of the Indians making but no People This River is a very convenient place to lay Shallops or such like small Vessels in it they may go into it at high Water for the Tide riseth here eight or nine feet this River I called by the name of Batchelor's River Before the mouth of this River in the Streights there is good anchoring in nine or ten or twelve Fathom Water sandy Ground a fair birth off the Shore the Tide runs but ordinary and the Floud-tide comes from the Westward and the Tide that comes out of St. Jerom's Channel makes a ripling with the Tide that comes along the stream of the Streight I called this Road that is before Batchelor's-River York-Road This is a good place to ride in with Westerly Winds for here cannot go any great Sea neither shall a Man be embayed that if a Cable give way he may have the Streight open to carry it away for the Westerly Winds are the greatest Winds that blow here by the Trees for they all stoop to these Winds and lean to the Easterward and the West-side of all the Trees that stand open are made flat with the Winds the tops of the Mountains look to the Eastward the Easterly Winds seldom blow strong here as to what I have observed By the Shore-side which lies open to the East the Grass grows down to the Water-side and they are the greener Shores and the Trees are streight and tall on the East-side of the Hills but on the West-shores the Grass and Trees are much weather-beaten worn away and crippled and the Shore-sides much tewed with the surge of the Waters At Cape Quad the Lands shut one with the other as if there were no farther passage but as you make nearer to it you will see the opening more and more as the Streight rounds there more to the Northward again Cape Quad is on the North-shore and it is a steep up Cape of a rocky greyish Face of a good height before one comes at it it shews like a great building of a Castle for it points off with a Race from the other Mountains so much into the Channel of the Streight that it makes shutting in against the South-land and maketh an Elbow in the Streight the Streight is not past four miles broad here from shore to shore and the Land is steep too on both sides and rocky the Mountains high on both Shores and craggy barren Rocks some Trees and Bushes growing here and much Snow on the Mountains on both sides Opposite to Cape Quad on the South-side there is a fine large Bay which is called Rider's Bay I did not go into it if there be Anchoring in it it is a fair Road for any Winds the Water is very deep here in the Channel no Ground at one hundred Fathom this part of the Streights from Point Passage to Cape Quad is the most crooked part of all the Streight therefore I called this Crooked-Reach Here are two small Islands in the North-shore to the Eastward of Cape Quad. November 14. This Morning I was a-brest of Cape-Munday so I called it it being a Cape on the South-side and is distant from Cape de Quad about thirteen Leagues the Streight here is about four miles broad and the North-shore makes into the Land with great sounds and broken Islands the Land on both Shores is high rocky Hills and barren very little Wood or Grass growing on them Here at Cape Munday the Streight grows broader and broader to the Westward but keeps all one Course North-west and by West to Cape Upright which is a steep upright Cliff on the South-side and it is distant from Cape Munday four Leagues Here the Streight inclines to the Westward near half-a Point the Streight lies from Cape Munday West-north-west half a Point Northerly right out into the South-Sea if you be in the middle of the Channel or nigh the North-shore I find little or no Tide to run here or Current no Ground in the Channel at two hundred Fathom a Musket shot off the Shore on either side Here run into the South-shore many Sounds and Coves I have sailed fair along by the South-shore all this day for the North-shore makes in broken Islands and Sounds Here lie all along the South-shore several small Islands but no danger for they are all steep too the Streight is a very fair Channel to sail throughout This day at Noon I was a-breast of an Island which lies on the North-side of the Streight I called it Westminster-Island there lie a great many Islands between that and the North-shore and to the Eastward and Westward as also some broken Ground and Rocks lie about it These Islands I called The Lawyers and this I sland which I called Westminster-Island is an high rocky Island shewing like Westminster-Hall the Streight is five Leagues broad between Westminster-Island and the South-shore but between that and the North-shore there are many rocky Islands and broken Ground The Streight lies from Cape Munday to Cape Desseada West-north-west and East-south-east half a point Northerly and half a point Southerly nearest and they are distant from one another near fifteen Leagues from Cape Quad to Cape Desseada it is about twenty eight Leagues and the Streight lies near North-west and by West from Cape Quad into the South-Sea and near in one Reach which I called Long-Reach and some of my Company called it Long-Lane This part may properly be called the Streights for it is high Land all the way on both Shores and barren Rocks with Snow on them and indeed from Cape Quad into the South-Sea I called this Land South-Desolation it being so desolate Land to behold Cape Desseada lies in the Latitude of 53 d. 10 m. South In Longitude West from the Lizard of England 72 d. 56 m. And in Meridian distance 1149. The Compass hath 14 d. 10 m. Variation Easterly here Cape Piller lies in the Latitude of 53 d. 5 m. In Longitude West from the Lizard of England 72 d. 49 m. And in Meridian distance 1148. Leagues West I make the whole length of the Streights of Magellan from Cape Virgin-Mary to Cape Desseada with every Reach and turning to be one hundred and sixteen Leagues and so much I sailed from the one Sea to the other according to my estimation The best Land-fall in my Opinion is to make the face of Cape Desseada for to come out of the South-Sea to go into the Streight of Magellan they lie in East and West at the first till you come a-brest of Cape-Pillar then the Course is South-east and by East nearest Be careful to keep the South-shore in fair view for the North-shore is broken Islands and Sounds that a Man may mistake the right Channel or Streight and steer up into one of them
bad them acquaint the Indians of the Mountains or In-lands that I came to speak with them and that I was their Friend and would give them many Hatchets and Knives and Swords c. if they would come to me and that I came purposely to speak with them and that my Master the Great King of England hath sent them many things and would willingly see them After these People had heard all that I said to them they sat for a time mute and considering of the Kindnesses they received from me and my Company and that they must go a-shore again under the Command of the cruel Spaniards they weeped extreamly and uttered these words Numbra Spanalos muccho Deablo c. In English it is The Spanish men are much Devils c. I verily believe that these poor innocent Creatures speak truth for they are great Devils in abusing these poor Souls so unmercifully as they do In sight of my Men the Spaniards with a great Staff would strike an Indian on the Head as he talked with him and beat him all along for no cause at all but this they do to shew their Greatness and Imperiousness The best Name the Spaniards can afford to call an Indian by is Dog and Devil and such like Names These Indians say that there is much Gold in the Land and that the Spaniards have much Oro I gave to each of these Indians a Knife and a small Looking-glass and some Beads they were very thankful and I put them in mind again to speak to the Indians of the In-land that I would give them Knives and Glasses if they would come to me I was in great hopes all this time that I should have the opportunity to speak with my Golden Friends by the means of these People for they seemed to be glad of the Message or of the things which I gave them to do it These People are of a middle stature strongly set and well-fleshed they are tawny coloured and have long black flaggy Hair their Features tolerable of a somewhat melancholy Countenance they are very active in Body and hardy in enduring of Weather or Diet They wear small Caps on their Heads like to Mounteers and their Garment is a long Mantle but most of their Garments are a square piece of Wollen Cloth like a Carpet of their own weaving of the Wool of Guianacoes they cut an hole in the middle of this Carpet through which they put their Head and it hangs upon their Shoulders and covers their whole Bodies like a Cloak when it is buttoned down before Some have these Cloaks so long as it reacheth down to their middle Leg and some to the Knee some wear half-Stockings on their Legs but no Shoes nor Shirts some have Breeches after the Spanish Fashion but close to their Thighs and Knees A NOTE which I sent to Lieutenant Armiger enclosed in a Letter LIeutenant take what notice you can of the Fortificatin of the Fort and what strength they have of People in it and whether they are able to withstand a Ship and what quantity of Provisions they have in it and whether Don Carlos be there send me an Account thereof by John Wilkins I will use all endeavours to have you off when I understand the strength of the place I remain your loving Friend John Narbrough Burn all the Letters you receive from me and in case of Examination December 18. 1670. This Evening I took the Suns Amplitude with my Compass and I had a good Observation I find the variation of the Compass to be eight Degrees ten Minutes Easterly I do much reason with my self as to the Variation that it differs so much in the same Latitude between the East and West-side of the Land of America for on the East-side as I sailed in the Latitude of forty Degrees I found the Compass to have twenty Degrees variation Easterly by several good Observations which I took with the same Instrument as I now do use which is a large Azimuth Compass and here I find but eight Degrees and ten Minutes variation and it is but eight Degrees of Longitude more Westerly in the same Parallel differing between these Observations and the difference of Variation I find the Land to be but one hundred and twenty five Leagues broad from the East-side to the West-side in the Latitude of forty Degrees South of the Equinoctial certainly the attractive quality of the Magnet must be very powerful in the Eastern part of the Land more than in the Western which causeth the difference yet I admire being on both sides of the Land the Compass should always have the same variation Easterly I was of the Opinion that the variation would have been Westerly on the West-side it being Easterly on the East-side but I find the contrary by experience therefore I believe that the attractive quality is not much in this part of America but in some other part more to the Eastward than I was for if the attractive quality had been in this Land and I sailing on both sides of it the variation must have been Easterly on the one side and Westerly on the other This Discourse I leave to a better Understanding for I am not as yet satisfied what occasioneth the variation and the great difference of it although I have been on several Voyages and have made great benefit of the Understanding of the variation of the Compass in directing of the true Course c. In the Port of Baldavia there are three fair Rivers which come out of the Country and empty themselves into the Port with a brisk stream of fresh Water which causeth the stream always to set out of the Harbour and the Waters to be fresh just within the Harbours-mouth one River runs up into the South-east part of the Harbour into the Country another River runs into the Country to the Eastward on the back-side of St. Peter's Fort the third River runs into the Country about the North-point of the Harbours-mouth between the point and the North-end of St. Peter's Island it runs up in the North-Eastward and nine or ten Mills stand upon the River from the Harbours-mouth The City of Baldavia is situated on the Bank of the River as the Spaniards tell me I judge this City of Baldavia is but a small place and kept only as a Garrison and a place for Trade with the Indians for Gold Bezoar-stones Guianacoes-Wooll c. The Spaniards that were aboard and the Indians said that there were but five great Guns in it and three hundred Men. I know that they speak of the most of every thing in the matters as concerning their strength and number of Men. I believe that these Rivers may run into the Country a long way and the Spaniards to have but little knowledge in the inward parts of this Country for the Indians will not suffer the Spaniards to search into the in-In-lands I believe also that these Rivers are not Navigable for Shipping for
the Bark which was there would certainly have gone up the River to the city of Baldavia and delivered her Goods there and not troubled themselves to carry the goods up in Boats and small flat-bottomed Barges which they have there for the purpose The Barges are built much like our West-Country Barges and smaller by much These Boats or Barges will carry about ten or twelve Tuns they steer with a Rudder and have one Mast and Sail as our Barges have the Sail is made of Cotton-cloth and the Ropes are made of the rind of Mangrove Trees and instead of Anchors they have wooden Crab-claws or Kellocks Anchors of Iron and Grapnels are scarce in these Countries Ropes and Cables of Hemp are also scarce there and good Fir-masts much wanted in all these Countries for their Ships The Masts for their Ships are made of white Cedar and such like Wood they are very heavy and short-grained and will break short There are not any Fir-trees growing in all the Land Good Workmen for the building of Ships are also much wanted here and Seamen The smaller Boats which they have here are Canoas being cut out of the Body of a large Tree and shaped somewhat like a Shallop at the ends some are thirty feet long and built one strake of Board upon them to raise them higher on their sides they will carry near twenty Men a piece some are rowed with Oars and some are less and rowed with Paddles those which are walt have a great Beam lashed fast along each side without Board which keeps them from over-setting These Boats are very ill built for I saw not any one of them fit to row in any Sea-gate or for any Service or to carry any Person of Quality in The Indians are the Spaniards Slaves to row them to and fro and to do all manner of labour for the Spaniards will not lay their Hands to any thing in that nature accounting it beneath them to foul their Fingers with Work for they scorn to be Servants one to another let the one be never so Potent and the other not worth the Rags which he weareth yet he scorns to be a Servant to him and live in America The Land about the Harbour of Baldavia is of a good height and in Land it riseth in large Hills it is low by the Water-side and the Shore is sandy in some Bays and broken shatty bits of glittering Rocks lilke Gold lie shatter'd along by the Shore-side All the whole Country is overgrown with green Woods as what I could see of it and by the Rivers sides there is no travelling in the Woods they are so thick with Under-brush old rotten Trees and Leaves and such Trash The Harbour is near a Mile and an half broad and the Guns cannot command from one side to the other St. Peter's Fort is near two Miles from the Harbours mouth any Ship may come in and beat them from their Guns in St. Jago Fort and in St. Andrew's Sconce which are on the Southwest side of the Harbour After you are in Saint Peter's Fort can do very little or no hurt at all to your Ship excepting it be accidental dropping shot The Spaniards have no Plantation on this South-west side they only keep the Forts for possession that no forein Ship may come and have the Port free to ride in and Trade with the Natives The Harbour is like a Sound after one is within the Mouth of it toward the South part Here grow many good Canes on the Shore-side such as are brought from the East-Indies which are called Bamboas these are very stiff Sticks firm and heavy they grow among the Trees on the sides of the Woods like Vines and wind about the Trees some are above twenty feet long and taper from the root to the top like an Angling-Rod All Commodities which come from Europe are very dear here and scarce for they have none brought to them but by the way of Panama and by the River of Plata which pass through several Merchants hands before they come into these parts and the transporting of them from place to place is very chargeable Many also are but of little esteem here being such plenty of them French Hollands Silks Flanders Laces Silk-stockings Ribbaning French Linnen Looking-glasses and such like Commodities were much enquired for here and would have sold at great Rates Gun-powder for Fowling-pieces is worth a piece of Eight per pound and Bird-shot is worth two Ryals of Plate a pound and a Ryal and an half a pound All Commodities of European Workmanship are of great worth here as I understand and believe that more Northerly on the Coast of Chile about Vale Parazo and Coquinto and Areca where there are more Inhabitants Commodities would bear a much greater price than what I mention and there would vent greater quantities for Silver is more plentiful by much in these parts than at Baldavia they being nearer the Mines of the Potosea for the Silver of Potosea comes down to the Port of Areca and from thence it is carried to Lima by Sea I am of Opinion that the most advantageous Trade in the World might be made in these parts if it were but follow'd and that leave were granted by the King of Spain for the English to Trade freely in all their Ports and Coasts for the People which inhabit there are very desirous of a Trade but the Governours durst not permit it without Orders unless such Ships of force were to go thither and Trade per force and not take notice of the Governours which might be easily performed by four Ships of twenty and thirty pieces of Ordnance a Ship and I believe that the Natives in the Southern parts of Chile about Castro and Orsono and at Baldavia would be brought to a rich Trade of Gold when once they grew to be acquainted with those that should be employed on the design and they did but use them civilly at the first and gain their loves which may be easily done by giving them Knives Scissars Glasses Beads Combs Hatchets and the like Commodities and treat them kindly For what I understand by the Indians who were aboard of me they are Masters of the Golden part of the Country My intent being if Weather permit me to sail all along the Coast from Baldavia to the Southward till I come to the Streights-Mouth at Cape Desiade I came in great hopes to meet with the Indians in some part of the Coasts and to Trade with them for Gold and to find good Harbours I resolve also to see in at the Islands of Castro and Orsono and try what I can find among those Spaniards who are settled there and whether they live accordingly as the Spaniard informed me here The Names of the four Men of my Company whom the Spaniards detained at Baldavia and whom I left there Thomas Armiger Lieutenant aged forty Years and born in Norfolk John Fortescue Gentleman aged twenty seven Years and born in
sailing between Cape-gallery and Cape-pillar forwards and backwards At any time if you have a desire to enter the Streights of Magellan at the West-mouth it will be safest in my Opinion to bear in for the Land in the Latitude of 52 Degrees and 50 Minutes South and then you will see the four Isles of Direction which lie before the Mouth of the Streights somewhat toward the North-side they lie North-north-west from Cape-pillar near eight Leagues distant These Islands may be known for there are but four of them and they be but of an indifferent height and but small and bare irregular Rocks and they be near together the Eastermost Isle is near a Mile distant from the other three and it is peeked up like a Sugar-loaf the Sea breaks much on these Isles with Westerly Winds c. Cape-pillar is the steep Point of Rocks on the South-side of the Streights-mouth at the entring into the Streights Cape Desiade is the Westerly Point for it falleth off from Cape-pillar near South-west and they are distant about two Leagues one from another which is the Face of the Lands between these two Capes for at the Point of Cape Desiade the Land on the South-side of the Cape trents off to the South-south-eastward all high ragged rocky Mountains what I saw of it at the pitch of Cape Desiade there lie many shatter'd Rocks which are above Water and shew like the Ruins of old Houses and there are ledges of Rocks that are sunk which lie near four Leagues off of the Cape West the Sea breaks much on them and they are dangerous they lie in the Latitude of 53 d. 10 m. South by my reckoning I called these Rocks The Judges they are near ten Leagues distant South and by West from the Isles of Direction so broad is the first opening of the Streights for when you can but once see the Land to make it there is no danger but a Stranger that should pass out of the South-sea and had not passed the Streights before will find it very difficult to pass the Streights from the West to the East for at the first entring into it out of the South-sea as we call it there are many Openings and Sounds on the North-side which seem fairer for a passage than the Streight it self doth therefore it is best to keep the South-side far aboard all along from Cape-pillar which is the point at the Entrance the Course will be East and by South for a Mile or two and then East-south-east and South-east and by East so the Channel lieth to Cape Quade The North-side of the Streights from Cape Victory all along to the Eastward to Cape Froward is all a ragged rocky mountainous desolate Country many high rocky Islands and small Rocks and sucking Rocks lie on the North-side of the Streights at coming out of Mare del Zur fifteen Leagues in distance into the Streights to the Eastward There also run great Sounds and Waters into the North-Land which shew like a passage more than the Streights doth There is no safety for a Ship to keep the North-shore aboard in this part for here lie so many Islands and Rocks so that if the Weather prove foggy and thick a Man may mistake the right Channel and steer in among the broken Islands and Rocks so far as to endanger his Ship if the Wind be Westerly and it is for the most part of the Winter there very thick and foggy Here are many Sounds and Coves on the North-side between Cape-Victory and Cape Quad but how far they run into the Land I know not I wanted a Sloop or some other small Vessel to discover those Sounds and many other places in the Streights which I would gladly have seen January 6. In Tuesday-bay and Island-bay there grow thick shrubby Bushes on the lower Land which have many Berries like Hurts growing on them these Bushes grow in a mossy loose Earth which lieth four or five Feet thick on the Rock these Bushes will serve for Fuel there grows also long sedgy Grass very thick many Geese and Ducks do make their Nests and breed in it and other Sea-Fowl here are Ducks white and pied brant-Geese grey Gulls Sea-Mews Sea-Divers and Penguins on the Water I could not see any People now but some have been there for I saw where they had made Fires and an Arbour Here are Muscles and Limpets on the Rocks but as for other Fishes I saw none I rowed two Miles up the Sound and could have gone farther but it rained so much and blew so hard as I durst not be absent from the Ship the Water is mighty deep in the Sound At night I got aboard my Seamen were joyful to see me for they were afraid that the Ship would have broke loose in the time of my absence Much Rain to Night and Fogs the Wind at West-south-west a short gale at Night I rode fast on the smooth Water having the Point on the North-west of me Here is a great deal of fresh Water comes running in streams down the sides of the bare rocky Mountains into the salt Water many Whales spouting to and fro in these Bays and Sounds and some Seals on the Rocks this part is very desolate and a mere Chaos c. At eight of the Clock this Evening I anchored before the place called Batchelors River in nine Fathom Water clear sandy Ground two Cables length from the shore Here is very good clear sandy-ground before the River and good Anchoring in six or seven or eight or nine or ten or eleven Fathom a fine barth of shore and good Riding with Westerly Winds and Northerly the worst Wind is a South-Wind for it blows right on in this Reach but there cannot go much Sea here for the Streight in this Reach is but two Leagues broad This Batchelors River is near five Leagues to the Eastward of Cape Quade and two Leagues to the Eastward of St. Jerom's Channel on the North-side of it the Tide runs of an indifferent strength in this place both Ebb and Flood it sets in and out of St. Jerom's Channel rising and falling about eight or nine Feet perpendicular here is not above ten Foot Water at a High-water at the going in of Batchelor's River This River is a good Harbour for Barks and Sloops or the like This River lieth in a Valley and a fine Grove of green Trees grows on the West Point At the entrance here is very good fresh Water and a good place to Wood at The Indian People or Natives frequent this place often for here are many Arbours which are their Houses Calm Weather to Night and Foggy I rode fast the Ship being moored Sunday January 8. Calm Weather and a fine warm Sun-shine This Morning at Day-light I went in my Boat with twenty Men into Batchelor's River and rowed four Miles up the Creek or River which was as far as the Boat could go the Water being high the River ends in a small Creek coming
out of a Lake of fresh Water in a Valley amongst the Hills we made the Boat fast and marched all into the Land five or six Miles being stop'd from going further by Hills rising very steep and Mountains and impenetrable Woods we made several Fires but could not see any sign of them so far in the Land No Beast or other Creature to be seen many small streams of fresh Water come running from the snowy Mountains with great Falls from the steep Rocks we looked in many places of the Earth and in the streams of Water for Gold c. but found none nor any other Metal of Mineral Here grow on the Bushes many small red Berries much like Hurts very good to eat the Grass-Land is very loose and Boggy the Rocks are a kind of white Marble the Trees like those at Port Famen here are small Pepper-trees To Night I got on Board Calm Weather I rode fast with the Ship Here ends Sir John Narbrough's Manuscript Journal which we shall continue home to England from the MS Diary taken by Sir John's ingenious Lieutenant Nathaniel Pecket Wednesday January 11. Fair Weather Wind variable from South-east to South-west This Morning we made the best of our way to get into Port Famen Here we had Fishes from the Shore to Fish our Main-mast At twelve a Clock we Anchored in nine Fathom Waaer This place afforded what we wanted as very good large Trees for Fishes good Water good wild Fowl good fish like Mullets and large Smelts here we fitted our Ships Masts and Rigging as well as we could Careen'd her and filled our Casks with good fresh Water and took as much Wood aboard as we thought fit January 16. Fair Weather and little Wind Westerly This Morning the Lieutenant was ordered to go up with the Boat in Segars River as high as he could with convenience and to see for Indians He went up about nine Miles but could nor get higher with the Boat by reason of the Trunk-timber and shoaliness in the Water So I landed and went up two Miles by Land to see for Indians but I could not see any not any thing worth the Observation How far the River runs up I know not for I saw not the end of it so I returned a-board again January 29. Fair Weather and little Wind at South-west This Morning the Captain went over with the Pinnace to the South-shore to see for Indians and if there were and Harbour for Shipping short of Port Famen This day came an Indian to the Point of Port Famen and made a Fire and I went a-shore to see what he had but he had neither Bow nor Arrow nor any thing else to the value of the Farthing I would have had him come a-board with me but he would not as far as I understood by the Signs he made to me he had been a slave to some other Indians and had run away from them and was travelling home Tuesday January 31. Fair Weather Wind variable This Evening the Captain came a-board again having been over on the South-shore to see for an Harbour but could find none nor see any Indians Saturday February 4. Fair Weather Wind at West by North. This Morning at four a Clock we set Sail for Port Famen and at eleven a Clock we were short of Fresh-water Bay and at six a Clock in the Evening we Anchored in twelve Fathom Water in a fine sandy Bay about four Leagues to the Northward of Freshwater Bay February 5. Fair Weather but very much Wind at South-west and West-south-west This Morning the Captain sent me to Freshwater Bay to see for Indians but I saw none there so I returned again aboard February 7. Fair Weather Wind Northerly This Morning the Captain ordered me to take the Pinnace and to go along the North-shore and between Elizabeth's Island and the Shore to see for Indians In the Afternoon it blew hard Northerly that we could not row a head so I put back into a sandy Bay and went a-shore and stayed there all Night and in this Bay we haled the same and got a great many good and large Smelts Smelts of twenty Inches long and eight Inches about Wednesday February 8. Fair Weather Wind West-south-west This Morning at four a Clock I run down the Streights with the Pinnace keeping the Norht-shore a-board and run berwixt it and Elizabeth's Island but saw no Indians yet saw several places where they had been very lately and where they had built their Canowes From Cape Desiade to Elizabeths Island there is Wood and fresh Water plenty but from Elizabeths Island to Cape Virgin-Mary Wood and fresh Water is very scarce to come by This Afternoon at three a Clock I got a-board again and at four a Clock we came to an Anchor in eight Fathom Water black Sand we rid within a Mile of the North-shore St. Georges and St. Bartholomew's Island were both shut in one and they bore South-south-east of me and Elizabeths Island bore South and by East And here we rid with the Ship all Night February 9. Fair Weather Wind Westerly This Morning the Captain sent me to see for Indians but I could see none yet I fell with a good Harbour for small Vessels on the North-side and at the South-end of a great deep Bay thwart of Elizabeths Island the entrance of this Harbour is not a Bow-shot from side to side I sounded it and there was twelve foot Water at a low Water but within there was three Fathom Water at low Water from the entrance of this Harbour to the upper end of it is about seven Miles Here is in this Harbour great stone of Geese and Ducks and a-shore there is great store of Heath-berries and Hicts and small Black-berries good and well-tasted but I saw no Indians so I returned a-board again the Captain went into another Harbour a Mile to the Southward of the second Narrow on the North-shore and sounded and had four Fathom Water in it it is very broad within and there is great store of Sea-Crabs Saturday February 11. Fair Weather Wind variable This day the Captain ordered me to go with the Pinnace and discover the North-shore and if I could with convenience discover some part of the South and to go to the first Narrow and there to stay for the Ship so I went through the second and landed on the South-side in a fine sandy Bay or Cove expecting to fall with Indians for I saw a many Fires up in the Land I went up about five or six Miles but could see no Indians Then the Night coming on I returned again to the Boat and there we pitched a Tent to lie in and lay all Night and at High-water we set the same thwart a Pond of Water and there it stood until Low-water then we halled the Pond all over and haled a-shore about 700 good and large Fish like Mullets This Land is very dry barren Land and nothing to be seen in it worth the Observation
February 12. Fair Weather Wind Northerly This Morning I went over to the North-shore and there I fell with a fine sandy Bay I sounded it and had 6 7 8 9 and 10 Fathom Water above half a Mile from the Shore This Bay is between the second Narrow and Cape Gregory close under Cape Gregory this Cape is about five or six Miles to the Eastwards of the second Narrow here I landed the Winds being Northerly a fresh gale and haled the Boat up dry and went up into the Country to see for Indians but saw none and I returned to the Boat again where we pitched our Tent and lay all Night February 13. Fair Weather and a fresh gale of Wind Westerly This Morning I run all along the North-shore from Cape Gregory to the first Narrow and I was no sooner entred into the first Narrow but I saw three Anchors which lay up above High-water Mark in a small sandy Cove there I landed and haled up the Boat and searched about to see if we could fall with any Guns or other Trade One of the Men found an Iron Commander for some Ships Poop one of those Anchors were twelve Foot long in the Shank and the other two were eleven Foot a piece and they were all spanish Anchors The Land here is barren dry Land and affords neither Wood nor fresh Water and for the space of five or six Miles about the land is full of Rats they have Holes in the Ground like Coney-burroughs their Food I suppose to be Limpet for there is great store of Limpet-shoals lying close to their Holes I saw no Indians here nor any thing worth Observing Night coming on we here pitched our Tent and lay all Night here are very good sandy Bays on the North-side all the way betwixt the first and second Narrow for I sounded all along as I came down in the Boat and had ten and twelve Fathom Water a good Burth off Tuesday February 14. Close hasey Weather with some Rain and very much Wind Westerly This Morning I saw the Ship coming down the Streights and after she was through the Narrow they brought her to and I got a-board and we made all the Sail we could and by Night we got clear of the Streights into the North-sea and at three a Clock Cape Virgin-Mary bore North-west ½ a Point Northerly distance 4 Leagues Thursday February 23. Fair Weather the Wind variable from the North-north-west to the West-north-west This Evening at nine a Clock we came to an Anchor in 22 Fathom Water sandy Ground on the South-part of America in the Lat. of 47 d. 16 m. South and then Cape-Blanco bore North-north-west of me distant about six Leagues February 24. Fair Weather and little Wind Northerly This Morning we weighed to go to Port Desire-Bay and in the Evening at six a Clock we Anchored in the Bay in fourteen Fathom Water February 25. Fair Weather and a Fresh gale of Wind Easterly This day the Long boat went into Port-Desire for fresh-Water but could not fill above five or six Puncheons for there was no more to be had there and all they brought aboard was brackish Fair Weather Wind variable Sunday February 26. Fair Weather and a fresh Wind at South-south-west Thiw Morning we set Sail from Port-Desire to go for England and at twelve a Clock I was in the Latitude of 47 deg 10 m. South And then Cape-Blanco bore Northwest of me but not by the Compass for here is a Point and half variation Easterly and at four a Clock Cape-Blanco bore West-north-west of me by the Compass distance nine Miles and then we had twenty Fathom Water but when it bears West-north-west from you and you are 8 Miles off you will have but ten Fathom Water Here is very good Sounding al the Coast along from this Cape ot Cape Virgin-Mary which lies in 52 d. 15 m. South Within five Leagues off the Main you will have 25 and 30 Fathom Water and 10 Leagues off you will have 50 and 55 Fathom Water it is black oasie Sand. Wednesday May 17. The Weather fair This Evening at six a Clock we saw the Island of Saint Mary one of the Isles of Azores it bore East-north-east of me distant about sixteen Leagues by Estimation fair Weather Wind at South-east May 19. Fair Weather Wind Easterly This Morning at seven a Clock the Town of Puntelegada upon the Island of St. Michaels one of the Isles of Azores bore North of me distant about two Miles and my Longitude difference from Cape-Blanco to this Town is My Meridian distance from Cape-Blanco to this Town is Leagues Miles Tenths Easting this Town lying so far to the Eastward of the Cape This day the Captain sent me a-shore to Puntelegada to enquire News from England whether we had War or Peace with any other Nation or not and I was informed by Mr. Richard Nucheuson that we had War with none but the Argea-Men So I returned a-board again and we made all the Sail we could for England Tuesday May 23. Fair Weather and much Wind at North-east our Provisions being almost done and but little Water in the Ship we bore up to go for Angria at the Tercesas May 24. Close hasey Weather and a fresh gale of Wind at North-east and by North. This Forenoon we Anchored in Angria-Rode in sixteen Fathom Water Friday May 26. Fair Weather and little Wind at North-east This Forenoon we set Sail out of Angria-Rode to go for England Saturday June 10. 1671. It was hasey dirty Weather Wind at S. W. This moring I saw Scilly at seven a Clock it bore N. E. by N. of me distant about 5 Leagues and at six a Clock in the Afternoon the Lizzard bore North of me distant about 3 Leagues Now I make my difference of Longitude from Cape Blanco to the Lizzard in England to be 60 d. 45 m. 2 10. and my Meridian distance is 840 Leagues I am so far to the Eastwards of the Cape A Relation of a Voyage made towards the South Terra Incognita extracted from the Journal of Captain Abel Jansen Tasman by which not only a new Passage by Sea to the Southward of Nova Hollandia Vandemens Land c. is discovered and a vast space of Land and Sea incompassed and sailed round but many considerable and instructive Observations concerning the variation of the Magnetical Needle in parts of the Worlds almost Antipodes to us and several other curious remarks concerning those Places and People are set forth Not long since Published in the Low Dutch by Dirk Rembrantse and now in English from Dr. Hook's Collections IN the year 1642. Aug. 14. He set Sail with two Ships from Batavia to wit the Yacht Heemskirk and the Fly-boat Seehane and the 5. of September came to an Anchor at the Island Mauritius 20 d. South Latitude and 83 d. 48 m. Long. They found this Island 50 Dutch Miles more Easterly than by their reckoning which make 3 d. 33 m. of
Longitude The 8. of October they departed from thence and went nearly South till the 40 or 41 d. having North-west var. 23 24 and 25 d. to the 22. of October From that time they bore away East somewhat Southwardly till the 29. when they were in South Latitude 45 d. 47 m. Longit. 89 d. 44 m. variation North-west 26 d. 45 m. The 6. of November they were in South Latitude 49 d. 4 m. Long. 114 d. 56 m. N. W. var. 26 d. with much dirty misty windy and gusty Weather and with hollow Waves out of the S. W. and S. so that we could not conceive there could be any Land very near upon these Points November 15. Latitude S. 44 d. 3 m. Longitude 140 d. 32 m. N. W. var. 18 d. 30 m. which decreased apace so that on the 21. being in 158 d. Longitude the variation was no more than 4 d. The 22. being the next day their Compass would not stand still as it ought therefore they guessed there was here some Mines of Load-stone for that their Compass stood not still upon any of the eight Points The 24. of November in South Latitude 42 d. 25 m. and their middle Longitude of 163 d. 50 m. they saw Land E. by N. distant from them 10. Miles which they named Anthony van Diemens Land Here the Compass stood right at this Land in the Longitude of 163 d. 50 m. They had much stormy bad weather so they went away S. by E. along the Coast to 44 d. of South Latitude where the Land runs away E. and after N. E. and northerly here in the Longitude 167 d. 55 m. and Latitude 43 d. 10 m. they came to Anchor in a Bay which on the 1. of December they named Frederick Hendricks Bay They heard as they thought the noise of Men but saw none they saw also two Trees about two or two and a half Fathom thick and 60 or 65 Foot high below the Branches the Bark of these Trees was cut with Flint peeled off in form of Steps to help the Inhabitants to climb them and take the Birds Nests thereon these Steps were about 5. Food asunder so that we must either conclude these People very great or else that they have some unknown trick to make use of the said Steps for climbing these Trees In the one Tree the Steps seemed so fresh and green as if it had not been four days since they were cut the noise of men and the play which they heard was much like that of a Jews Trump or little Gom which was not far off but they saw no body They saw the footing of wild Beasts having Claws like a Tyger and of other Beasts They found also Gum of the Trees and Gum-Lac of the Ground The Ebb and Flood was here about three Foot The Trees stood not thick nor incumbred with thick bushes or underwood they saw likewise in several places the smoak of fire Here they did nothing but only set up a Stake with the Companies mark and a Princes Flag thereon there was here 3 d. N. E. variation December 5. S. Lat. 41 d. 34 m. Long. 169 d. they went away E. from Anthony van Diemens Land with purpose to run away E. to the Long. of 195 d. to find the Islands of Solomon December 9. with S. Lat 42 d. 37 m. Long 176 d. 29 m. N. E. variation 5 d. Decemb. 12. they had hollow Waves out of the S. W. therefore from that Quarter no Land is to be expected December 13. Latitude S. 42 d. 10 m. Longitude 188 d. 28 m. N. E. variation 7 d. 30 m. they had Land in sight which was very high and hilly and which in the Charts is now called New Zealand they went N. Eastwards along the Land as the Chart shewed it till they Anchored in a Bay in South Latitude 40 d. 50 m. Longitude 191 d. 41 m. N. E. variation 9 d. and that on the 18. of December 1642. These Inhabitants were rough of voice thick and gross made they came not within a Stones cast on Board of us and blew several times on an Instrument which made a noise like a Moorish Trumpet in answer thereto we blew ours Their colour was between Brown and Yellow they had black Hair bound fast and tight upon the crown of their Head in the same manner as the Japanners have theirs behind their Head and near as long and thick of Hair upon which stood a great thick white Feather their Clothes were of Mats others of Cotton but their upper parts were naked December 19. these Antipodes began to be somewhat bolder and more free so that they indeavoured to begin a Truck or Merchandize with the Yacht and began to come on Board the Commander seeing this began to fear lest they might be fallen upon and sent his Boat or Prow with seven Men to advertise them that they should not trust these People too much they went off from the Ship and not having any Arms with them were set upon by these Inhabitants and three or four of them were killed and the rest saved themselves by swimming this they indeavoured to revenge but the water going high they were hindred this Bay was by them for this reason named Murderers Bay as it is marked in the Charts From this Bay they went on E. and found the Land all round about them It seems a very good Land fruitful and well scituated but by reason of the bad Weather and West Wind they had a great deal of trouble to get out The 24. of December because the Wind would not well suffer them to go to the Northward they not knowing if they should find any Passage to the North and the Flood coming out of the S. E. they concluded to go back again into the Bay and there seek a Passage but the 26. the Wind better serving they went away Northerly somewhat to the West January 4. 1643. in South Latitude 34 d. 35 m. Longitude 191 d. 9 m. N. E. variation 8 d. 40 m. they came to the N. W. cape of this Land and had hollow Waves out of the N. E. and therefore doubted not there must be a great Sea in the N. E. whereupon they were glad as having now gotten a Passage Here lay an Island which they named three Kings Island to which they went to refresh themselves and being come near they saw upon the Hill thirty or thirty five Men being of tall Stature as well as might be discerned from far with Sticks or Clubs who called to them with harsh or loud voices but they could not understand them and those Men when they walked made very wide paces or steps In turning about this Island there appeared very few Men and they saw little or no Cultivated Land but only found a fresh River where our People intended to get fresh water but by some unlucky accident were prevented whereupon it was resolved to go with an Eastern Course to the Longitude of 220 d. and then
E. into the S. and so on to the S. S. W. they intended to find a Passage between both but found this to be all one Land even into the West wherefore they turned their Course Westward along the Coast and had much Calms April 20. in S. Latitude 5 d. 4 m. Longitude 164 d. 27 m. N. E. variation 8 d. 30 m. by night they came by the Burning Island and saw a great Fire come out of the top of the Hill of which aâ—â—o William Scouten writes they went between this Island and the Main and saw many Fires close by the Water as towards the middle of the high Hill whence they argued this to be a populous and well inhabited Island they had along this Coast of Nova Guinea much Calms and saw frequently drift Wood as small Trees Bamboes and other filth from the Land that came out from the Rivers which made them conclude that there are many Rivers and that it must be a good Land The next day they past the Burning Mountain and went along the Shore W. N. W. April 27. in South Latitude 2 d. 10 m. Longitude 156 d. 47 m. they thought they were at the Island Moa but it was Jama a little more Easterly than Moa here they got many Coco-Nuts and other things The People were wholly black and what they heard our People speak they could very perfectly repeat which is a certain sign that their Language is very copious in Words and difficult to be pronounced because they use much the Letter R. and sometimes two or three times in a Word The next day they came before Moa where likewise they got much refreshment here by reason of contrary Winds they stayed till the 6. of May so that they Trucked for near 6000 Coco-Nuts and 100 Bundles of Pysanghs about the beginning of their Traffick on the Island Moa whether maliciously or otherwise one of our Company was hurt with an Arrow shot by one of the Inhabitants whilst this past they were getting their Ships nearer to the Land wherewith this People were so frighted that of their own accord they brought aboard him that had shot the Arrow for us to do with him what we pleased and from that time they were better to be spoken withal whether it were in their Traffick or otherwise so that our People took pieces of Iron Hoops and fitted them into Hafts and made them somewhat bright and sharp and so put them off for Knives It is probable they still remember what befel them with William Scouten 27. years before ' T was in the year 1616. July 16. for they having dealt very traiterously and perversly with him Jacob le Mair went with the Ship close to the Land between the Islands and shot with his great Guns along the Strand and into the Woods so that the Bullets flew through the Trees with a great noise whereupon these Negroes fled and durst not once peep out but at length they grew very tractable May 12. in S. Lat. 0 d. 54 m. and Long. 153 d. 17 m. N. E. variation 6 d. 30 m. they sailed along the N. side of William Scoutens Island it seems that the People are nimble and that the Island is well inhabited it is about 1â— or 19 Miles long May 18. S. Lat. 0 d. 26 m. Long. 147 d. 55 m. N. E. variation 5 d. 30 m. they had past the Cape of good Hope and come to the West end of New Guinea a broken Point of Land They had much variable Calm and contrary Winds with rain From hence they went Southward for Seram and came on the North side thereof On the 27. of May they went on through the Streights to the North of Boure or Bouton and so for Batavia where they arrived June 15. in South Latitude 6 d. 12 m. and Longitude 127 d. 18 m. the Voyage was finished in ten Months A MAP of y e NORTH EAST AND NORTH WEST Parts of the POLE. Relation of a Voyage for the Discovery of a Passage by the North-East to Japan and China Performed in his Majesties Ship the Speedwel and Prâ—sperous Pink Anno Domini 1676. Where is shewed the Reasons and Grounds of the probability of a Passage before the Attempt with some good Observation made in the said Voyage by Captain John Wood. TO Write a full Relation of all those Navigators that have attempted to find a Passage by the N. E. to China and Japan will be â—eedless since their Naratives have passed most â—â—ands they being Recorded in Hackluit and Purchaâ—'s but my 〈◊〉 is to shew wherein those failed that have 〈◊〉 undertaken it and then to shew the 〈◊〉 Reasons that induced 〈◊〉 undertak 〈◊〉 said Voyage with the event thereof The first that ever Attempted the said Voyage 〈◊〉 Sir Hugh Willoughby in the year 1553. with 〈◊〉 Sail of Ships and he sail ed to the North Cape of Finmarke and then into the Lat. of 72. 〈◊〉 he saies he saw Land but to this day it â—annot be found again and I am of Opinion â—â—at it was some Fog Bank that he saw for in my return Home I run over the same place where our Chard-Makeâ—s lay down that Land but certain it was that by foul Weather he was forced into a Harbor in Laplanâ—â— called Arzena where by thâ— continuance of bad Weather he could never return out but was there frozen to Death with alâ— his Ships Company so thaâ— of this Voyage there was no Light given to find a Passage that way The second that Attempted was one Captaiâ— Stephen Burrough afterward Comptroller of thâ— Navy to Queen Elizabeth In the Year 155â— he set forward and passed the North Cape anâ— sailing farther Easterly discovered the Waygate that is the Streight thaâ— runneth between thâ— South part of Nova Zâ—mbla and the Sammoâ—â— Country where he entred and believing thâ—â— Sinus or by the Eastward of the Streights to 〈◊〉 a free and open Sea he returned with hope 〈◊〉 Passage that way to China and Japan The third that Attempted was Captain Arthâ—â— Pett and Captain Charles Jackman in the Yeâ—â— 1580. being sent out by Queen Elizabeth to folloâ— the Track 〈◊〉 Burroughs so setting forwards thâ—â— came to the Wâ—ygates and passed the Streigh and came into the Sea to the Eastward where theâ— met with such a vast quantity of Ice and 〈◊〉 Weather that they with great Hazard Peril 〈◊〉 Labour were forc'd to return but by foul Weâ—ther lost one 〈◊〉 other and Pett was never 〈◊〉 of since so the Passage through the Waygate was in England laid by as thought not possiâ—â—â—e that way and then the Hollanders undertook The fourth that Attemped it was William Barrans a well Experienced Navigator and Artist sent out of Holland by Prince Morrice in the Year 1606. He sailed into the Waygates but being entred he found the same Incumbrance with Ice that Pett and Jackman had done before so tasting of the Water and finding of it fresh which neither Burrough Pett nor Jackman
Flawes Commander being bound upon the Discovery with us At Eight at Night the Naz◠Land boar West North about six Leagues we steered away North-east and North-north-east Monday May 29. The Wind at South-west and West-south-west a fresh Gale with Showers of Rain Course per Compass between the North-east and the North distance sailed by the Log 73 Miles true Course Protracted since last Night Eight a Clock to this Day Noon is North 28 d. East difference of Lat. 68 Miles and departure East from the Naze Land 36 Miles Lat. by Judgment as in the Margent Thick cloudy Weather Tuesday May 30. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon the Wind variable from South-west to the South-east thick cloudy Weather and a fresh Gale Course per Compass North-north-west and North-west by North distance sailed by the Log 95 Miles true Course is North 28 d. West distance of Lat. 83 Miles departure West 45 Miles Lat. per Judgment Meridian distance West nine Miles Wednesday May 31. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with Calms and Rains Courses per Traverse true Course Protracted with all impediments allowed is North 43 d. West 60 Miles difference of Lat. 42. Miles departure West 40 Miles Lat. per Judgment 54 d. 13 m. Lat. by a good Observation at Noon 55 d. 30 m. at which time the Land between New-Castle and Berwick bore West about 8 or 9 Leagues Meridian distance Current from the bearing of the Land and the Lat. is 88 Miles 50 Fathom Water saw two Ships standing to the Southward but would not show their Colours Thursday June 1. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale from the West by South to the South-west Course per Compass between the North and the North-west distance sailed by the Log 76 Miles true Course Protracted is North 16 d. West Lat. by a good Observation 56 d. 41 m. departure West 21 Miles At nine in the Morning we gave Chase to a Scotch Fisherman and at Noon came up with her and bought some Fish of him at Noon a hard Gale steered away North being about seven or eight Leagues from the Land between Montross and Edenburgh we steered along the Course North by East till eight a Clock Friday June 2. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with fair Weather Course per Compass North distance sailed by the Log 117 Miles but by a good Observation 120 Miles Lat. 58 d. 41 m. Winds from the West-south-west to the South-west At two a Clock a great gust of Wind at North-west with Rain we hand our Top-sails and at three it blew a Storm of Wind we lay a Try under a Main-sail till ten a Clock then sent our Fore-sail Saturday June 3. From yesterday Noon to this day Noon true Course Protracted Leeward way and all impediments allowed is North East 42 Miles Lat. by a good Observation is 59 d. 23 m. Meridian distance from the Naze Land is 100 Miles at Noon saw a small Island called Foril lying to the South of Shetland bearing West-north-west about four Leagues in the Afternoon little Wind. Note that we found the Ship more to the Westward than expected being caused by a variation of 6 or 7 d. East Sunday June 4. This Forenoon little Wind with Calms till about 12 at Noon at which time sprung up a Gale West-north-west blowing very hard we ply to windward and turned into Brace-Sound and anchored in nine Fathom Water right against the Town called Lerwick here is the remains of a Fort that was built in the time of War with Holland but upon the Peace with the Hollanders it was demolished for fear any other Nation might come and take it and so keep it Saturday June 10. Rid still till Saturday seven a Clock at which time Weighed the Wind at South-west we took in a Pilot and sailed out through the North end of Brace Sound having three Fathom Water over the shallowest place Sunday June 11. At four in the Morning Scau bore West by North about six Leagues a fresh Gale at South-west hasey Weather From four in the Morning till twelve at Night Course North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 35 Miles true Course allowed from the bearing of the Land is North-east 41 Miles difference of Lat. 30 Miles Lat. by Judgment 61 d. 26 m. Meridian distance from Shetland 30 Miles East From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon a strong Gale at South-west West-south-west West and West-north-west Course per Compass North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 147 Miles difference of Lat. 135 Miles departure East 56 Miles Lat. by Judgment 63 d. 42 m. Meridian distance East 86 Miles thick cloudy Weather at Noon little Wind. Tuesday June 13. From yesterday Noon to this Day little Wind and variable with Calms from the North-west to North-north-east we ply to windward True Course Protracted all impediments allowed is North-north-east 23 Miles difference of Lat. 21 Miles North departure East 8 Miles Lat. by Judgment 64 d. 03 m. Meridian distance 94 Miles Lat. by a good Observation 64 d. 03 m. Wednesday June 14. From the 13. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with fresh Gales Rains and little Winds Course per Traverse between the North-east and the North distance sailed by the Log 92 Miles true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is North 18 d. difference of Lat. 81 Miles departure East 30 Miles Meridian distance 124 Miles Thursday June 15. From the 14. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with Calms from the West to the South-west Course per Compass North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 67 Miles true Course Protracted with allowance is North 22 ½ d. East difference of Lat. 62 Miles departure East 26 Miles Lat. per Judgment 66 d. 26 m. Meridian distance 150 Miles East At Noon broke our Main Topsail-Yard being rotten in the Slings thick hasey Weather Friday June 16. From the 15. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale at West-north-west and West-south-west with Rains and thick Weather Course per Compass North-north-east and North-east by North distance sailed per Log 126 Miles true Course Protracted is North 30 d. East difference of Lat. 108 Miles departure East 63 Miles Lat per Judgment 68 d. 14 m. Meridian distance 223 Miles Saturday June 17. From the 16. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale at West-north-west and West with Rain and cloudy Weather Course per Compass North-east distance sailed by the Log 127 Miles difference of Lat. 90 Miles departure East 90 Miles Lat per Judgment 69 d. 48 m. Meridian distance 303 Miles but by a good Observation at Noon Lat. 69 d. 53 m. difference of Lat. between the Dead Reckoning and Observation is 9 Miles which imputed to a westerly variation which is found by an Azimuth 7 d. Meridian distance Corrected is 300 Miles fair Weather Sunday June 18. From the 17. Noon to this day Noon the Wind from West-north-west to the
West-south-west fair Weather Course per Compass North-east by East distance sailed by the Log 83 Miles true Course Protracted and variation allowed is East 33 d. North difference of Lat. 47 Miles by Observation departure 66 Miles Lat. by a good Observation 70 d. 30 m. Meridian distance 367 Miles East Yesterday and this Day we saw many Whales Monday June 19. From the 18. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale at West by South thick hasey Weather with Rains at seven a Clock in the Forenoon saw many Sea Fowles more than at any time yet with many Jubartesses at ten a Clock saw the Land being the Islands that lie about 20 Leagues to the Westward of the North Cape true Course allowed for variation is North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 135 Miles difference of Lat. 50 Miles departure East 30 Miles Lat. per Judgment 71 d. 20 m. Meridian distance 497 Miles At Noon the Island Sanden bore South by East about 8 or 9 Leagues off this Island is a high craggy Land with some Snow on the Land Tuesday June 20. From the 19. Noon to this day Noon Course per Compass between the East-north-east and the North-east distance sailed by the Log 128 Miles true Coursed allowed for the variation is North 43 d. East difference of Lat. 91 Miles departure 88 Miles East Lat. per Judgment 72 d. 51 m. Meridian distance 585 Miles From yesterday Noon to this day Noon the first 12 Hours a fresh Gale at South-west but the last 12 Hours much Wind with small Rains and great Fogs saw many Sea Fowles Wednesday June 21. From the 20. to the 21. Noon a stiff Gale with Gusts and small Rains Course per Compass North-east distance sailed by Log 35 Miles true Course allowed by variation is North 40 d. East difference of Lat. 103 Miles departure East 86 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 34 m. Meridian distance 671 Miles thick cloudy Weather saw many Sea Fowles Thursday June 22. From the 21. Noon to this 22. Noon Course per Compass North-east distance sailed per Log 116 Miles true Course allowed by variation and Leeward way is North 43 d. East difference of Lat. 85 Miles departure East 79 Miles Lat. per Judgment 75 d. 59 m. Meridian distance 750 Miles East the Wind at North-west a fresh Gale Weather variable sometime cloudy and sometimes fair but very cold At Noon we saw Ice right a Head about a League off we sailed close to it and found it to lie away East-south-east and West-north-west we bore away East-south-east along the Ice in the Afternoon we had some small Snow and very cold Weather Friday June 23. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon we steered along the Ice finding it to have many openings which we sailed into but found them to be Bays our true Course sailed along the Ice the variation allowed was East 14 d. South 77 m. Lat. per Judgment 75 d. 41 m. difference of Lat. 19 m. departure 74 Miles Meridian distance 824 Miles Wind N. N. W. At Noon we sounded and had 158 Fathom soft green Oar and found the Current to set South-south-east we have found very smooth to Leeward of this Ice and in some places found pieces of the Ice driving off a Mile sometimes more or less from the main body of the Ice finding it to be in several strange shapes resembling Trees Beasts Fishes Fowles c. The main Body of the Ice being low but very Craggy being many pieces lying close together and some a top of each other and in some places we saw high hillocks of blue colour but all the rest of the Ice very white as though it were Snow In some places we saw drift Wood amongst the Ice we took up some of the Ice and melted it and the Water very fresh and good this Day we found very cold and freezing Saturday June 24. From the 23. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind at North by West we steered close along the Ice sailing into every opening but could not find any Passage through neither could we see over the Ice in any place from our Topmast-Head true Course Protracted as we sailed along the Ice is East 34 d. South difference of Lat. 24 Miles South departure East 34 Miles Lat. per Judgment 75 d. 18 m. but by a good Observation at Noon the Lat. 74 d. 50 m. the difference between the Dead Lat. and the observed Lat. is 28 Miles which difference hath been caused by the Current setting South-south-east At Noon we sounded and had 128 Fathom Water and the Current as yesterday South-south-east this last 24 Hours fair Weather with little Winds having some small Fogs but lasted not above half an Hour at a time Meridian distance 858 Miles Sunday June 25. From the 24. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind with Calms and the most part foggy so that we durst not venture in the Ice but lay by and stood off true Course Protracted is East 30 d. South difference of Lat. 13 Miles South departure East 19 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 37 m. Meridian distance 877 Miles East Wind variable from the North-west to the West-south-west At One in the Afternoon the Fog broke up hard freezing Weather our Rigging and Sails frozen for as fast as the Fog fell it freezed Monday June 26. From the 25. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind from the North-west to North Course per Compass between the West-south-west and the North-east distance sailed by the Log 63 Miles difference of Lat. 7 Miles North departure East 58 Miles true Course Protracted is East 7 d. North Lat. per Judgment is 74 d. 40 m. Meridian distance 935 Miles At Noon we stood is close with the Ice and saw something to move we judging it might be Sea-Horses or Morses lying on the Ice we sent our Boat to see and they found two Sea-Horses upon the Ice they fired several shot at them but could not kill them notwithstanding that they were much wounded they got into the Water and so went under the Ice We have found the Ice to lie away East these 24 Hours the Wind at North and very cold and at 12 at Night 70 Fathom green Oar at 9 in the Evening saw Land the North part of it bearing East and the South part South-east being high and covered with Snow about 15 Leagues off Sounded and had 125 Fathom Tuesday June 27. From Monday the 26. to Tuesday 27. little Wind from the North-west to the North by East with Calms we kept close with the Ice and found it joyn to the Land of Nova Zembla true Course Protracted is East by North 30 Miles difference of Lat. 16 Miles departure East 29 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 46 m. Meridian distance 964 Miles at Noon 83 Fathom Water about 6 Leagues from the Shore we rowed in towards the Shore and found the Ice to lic about 5 Leagues from the Shore we went out of our Boat on
him who immediately saw our Fire and steered into us and sent his Boat to help to bring off our Men with that we broke up our new Work which was done to our Long-Boat and Lanched her and about Noon got all on Board Captain Flawes in good Health Journal on Board the Prosperous Captain William Flawes Commander From Nova Zembla to England 1676. SUnday July 9. From the 8. 12 at Night to this 9. 12 at Noon the Winds variable with Fogs and small Rain we stand off to the Westward true Course Protracted with allowance for variation is West 8 d. South difference of Lat. 8 Miles departure 67 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 42 m. Meridian distance from Point Staten being the Westermost Land off of Nova Zembla and the last Land we saw 67 Miles very cold Weather Monday July 10. From the 9. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable from the South-west by West to the West and so to the North and North-north-east with small Rain great Fogs and very cold Weather true Course Protracted is West 35 Miles variation allowed 12 d. West Meridian distance 102 Miles a great Sea from the Westward Tuesday July 11. From the 10. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable from the North-north-east to the North-west Course per Compass West by South distance sailed by the Log 102 Miles true Course allowed for variation is West 68¼ South distance of Lat. 34 Miles departure 96 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 06 m. Meridian distance 198 Miles thick cloudy Weather and very Cold. Wednesday July 12. From the 11. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind and variable with Calms small Rains and Fogs distance sailed by the Log 27 Miles between the West by North and the West by South true Course allowed with all impediments is West at Noon Lat. by Observation 73 d. 34 m. which is 34 Miles more northerly than expected the variation I suppose came from the Lat. we departed from on Nova Zembla Meridian Distance Corrected is 222 Miles West at Noon calm and fair Weather Thursday July 13. From the 12. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind variable from the West to the South-south-west a fresh Gale we ply to the Westward close Haul'd Course per Compass between the South-south-west and the West-north-west true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is West by North ½ North 69 Miles difference of Lat. 17 Miles departure 59 Miles Lat by Judgment 73 d. 51 m. Meridian distance 279 Miles Cold cloudy Weather with small Rains Friday July 14. From the 13. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable from the South-south-west to the West-north-west a fresh Gale and sometimes little Wind we ply to the Westward sometimes on one Tack and sometimes on the other true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is West-south-west ½ South difference of Lat. 9. Miles South departure West 20 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 35 m. Meridian distance 299 Miles Saturday July 15. From the 14. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds fresh with gusts from the North-west to the West we ply to the Westward sometimes to the Southward distance sailed by the Log 70 Miles true Course Protracted is South-west 33 d. 45 m. difference of Lat. 52 Miles Departure West 34 Miles Lat. per Judgment 72 d. 43 m. Meridian distance 333 Miles cold and cloudy Sunday July 16. From the 15. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind at West-south-west and West by South a fresh Gale but from 8 at Night till 8 in the Morning much Wind we lay a try under a Main-sail true Course Protracted Leeward-way and variation allowed is North by West ¼ West 31 Miles difference of Lat. 30 Miles departure West 7 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 13 m. Meridian distance 340 Miles Rain with very thick Weather Monday July 17. From the 16. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind from the West by North to the West with Rains Fogs and Calms we ply to the Westward close upon a Wind true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is West by South ◠West distance of Lat. 3 Miles departure 23 miles Lat per Judgment 73 d. 10 m. Meridian distance 360 Miles at 11 in the Forenoon the Wind came up at South-south-east and foggy Tuesday July 18. From the 17. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds from the South to the West-south-west we ply to the Westward close haul'd between the West and North-west distance sailed by the Log 87 Miles true Course Protracted is West by North ¼ North 80 Miles distance of Lat. 18 Miles departure 77 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 28 m. Meridian distance 437 Miles thick foggy Weather Wednesday July 19. From the 18. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind at South-west and South-south-west with very thick Fogs Course per Compass West-north-west and West close Haul'd distance sailed by the Log 74 Miles true Course variation and Leeward-way allowed is West-north-west ½ North 70 Miles difference of Lat. 32 Miles departure 60 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. Meridian distance 497 Miles at Night much Wind we hand our Top-sails Thursday July 20. From the 19. Noon to this Day Noon for the most part much Winds at West-south-west and South-west with great Fogs we ply close upon a Wind North-west by West and West-north-west distance sailed by the Log 65 Miles true Course variation and Lee-way allowed is North-north-west ¼ West distance of Lat. 55 Miles departure 33 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 55 m. Meridian distance 530 Miles Friday July 21. From the 20. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind from the South-west to the West Course per Compass South by West upon one Tack and West-north-west on the other close Haul'd distance sailed by the Log 61 Miles true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is South by West ¾ West 48 Miles distance of Lat. 45 Miles departure 16 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 12 m. very thick foggy and cold till about Noon it cleared up Saturday July 22. From the 21. Noon to this Day 4 in the Morning the Wind at South-west by West and South-west with thick Fogs Course West by North and North-north-west 46 Miles at which time it was very foggy Weather we saw many Willocks and other Sea Fowles more than usual which made us think that we were near the Land of Cherry-Island we cast the Lead and had 60 Fathom a rough Sand with that we Tack'd and stood off South-south-east and South-east by East 9 Miles till Noon at which time we Sounded and had 78 Fathom Lat. at 4 in the Morning by Judgment 74 d. 26 m. Meridian distance 589 Miles at which time I was by my Reckoning 13 Leagues West from Cherry Island according to the Meridian distance I made from the Cape to Nova Zembla and from Nova Zembla back here Lat. at Noon by Judgment 74 d. 20 m. Meridian distance 582 Miles Sunday July 23. From the 22. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with
the Long-Boat in order thereunto we raised her two Foot and laid a Deck upon her to keep the Sea out as much as was possible and with this Boat and 30 Men. for she could carry no more I intended to Row and Sail to Russia but the Men not being satisfied who should be the Men began to be very unruly in their mind and behaviour every one having as much reason to save himself as another some holding Consultation to stave the Boat and all to run the like Fortune But here Brandy was our best Friend for it kept them alwaies Fox'd so that in all their Designs I could prevent them some were of the mind to go by Land but that I knew was impossible to any Man neither had we Provisions nor Ammunition to defend us from the Wild Beasts and if it had been passable that is any going on the ground for Bogs that they would have met with Rivers that they knew not whether to go so there being no probability of going by Land nor for any to attempt going in the Boat without forty Men having been first destroyed I will leave it to the consideratiion of any whither we were not in a very miserable condition without Divine Providence to Write my thought I had at that time to save as many Men as I could it is not pertinent at all to the Discourse since it cannot but be imagined to be Tragical The Weather continued still very bad with Fogs Snow Rain and Frost till the 9. Day of our being on Shore which was the 8. Day of July when in the Morning it cleared up and to our great joy one of the Sailors cried out a Sail which proved Captain Flawes as reasonable may be imagined so we set fire to our Town that he might see where we was which he presently saw so come to us and sent his Boat to us but before I went off I Writ a brief Relation of the intention of the Voyage with the Accidents that had befallen us and put it in a Glass-Bottle and left it in the Fortification I had there built So by twelve a Clock we all got safe on Board but left all on Shore that we had saved from the Ship for we much feared it should prove foggy again Now I intend to give a brief description of the Land and the Observations I made there NOva Zembla is so called by the Russians which signifieth New Land in their Language to prove it is either an Island or whither it joyneth to the Continent of Tartaria would be a very hard Task nor is it certainly known to any for by Circumstances I think it impossible to prove and by Experience the search thereof is so impossible that it will hardly be tryed But let it be either I think the matter is not much since it is the most miserable Country that lyeth on the Foundation of the Earth a Country most part of it covered perpetually with Snow and that that is bare is not to be walked on being like Bogs upon whose Superficies grows a kind of Moss which beareth a small blue and yellow Flower and this is all the Product of the Earth of this Country Under the superficies of this Earth about two Foot deep after we had dug so low we came to a firm Body of Ice which as I think was never heard of before so these Men that did imagin if they were forced to Winter to the Northward would dig Caves in the Earth to preserve themselves from cold would find here but very bad Lodging The Snow lieth here contrary to what it doth in any other Country for in all other Climates the Snow melteth soonest away near the Sea side but here the Sea beateth against the snowy Clifts which in some places are as high as either of the Forelands in Kent the Sea has washed underneath the Snow a prodigious way and the Snow over hanging most fearful to behold and up from the Water side upon the first Ridge of Hills the Snow was melted till you come to the next Ridge which are Mountains and they all the way up are covered with Snow which I believe hath lain there evere since the Creation but after we had ascended this which in some places was almost Perpendicular we came to the top of all the Mountains as we supposed for we could not see far for we could hardly see one the other the Fog was so thick and remained so all the time we were in the Country but on the top of these Hills we found it bare from Snow and indifferent good walking The best that I found in the Country were only Bears I continued on the top of those Hills fome two hours and went as far as was convenient that we might find the way back again Here I found the Track of many large Deer also we found an Horn of Beam of Deer besides Deer there be abundance of large White Bears and some Foxes and a little Creature much like a Coney but not so big as a Rat and some few little Birds like Larks and these be all the Beasts or Fowls we found in the Country Every quarter of a Mile there runneth down from the Hills into the Sea a small Rivulet of very good Water which is melted from Snow Upon the Hills we found abundance of Slate-stone which made it good walking but at the Sea side where the Rivulet came down we found very good Black Marble with White Veins in it The Point where we lost our Ship I called Point Speedill the high Hills I called King Charles's Snow Hills and the next Point to the Southward which is the Westermost Point of Nova Zembla I named James Foreland and the Point to the Northward York Point Point Speedill lieth in the Lat. of 74 d. 30 m. North and in the Longitude East from the City of London 63 d. 00 m. The variation of the Compass is 13 d. West and it is full Sea at South-west Moon The Tide riseth 8 Foot and setteth directly upon the Shore which is a certain sign that there is no Passage to the Northward The Sea Water about the Ice and Land is very salt and much salter than any I ever tasted and a great deal heavier and I may certainly say the clearest in the World for I could see the ground very plain in 80 Fathom Water which is 480 Foot there being few Steeples so high as that was deep and I could see the Shells at the bottom very plain If the Voyage had succeeded I should God willing have given a more full and nice account of all the Experiments I had and should have made especially those of the Magnet which I forbare here to mention because I intended to Publish them in a Treatise by themselves so having with the Ship lost all my Papers and with them all I had in the World beside I most humbly beg Pardon that I have given no more Ample a Relation A Collection of Curious
weather and warm Sun-shine all night Hard by us rode a Hollander and the Ships crew busie in cutting the fat of a Whale when the fish burst with so great a bounce as if a Canon had been discharged and bespattered the Workmen all over On the 8th the wind turned North-west with snow and rain We were forced to leave one of our Anchors and thank'd God for getting off from Land for the Ice came on fiercely upon us at night the wind was laid and it was colder although the Sun shined On the 9th we got another male Whale being the eighth which was yellow underneath the head we filled with him 54 Kardels with fat the Sun shined all night On the 12th we had gloomy Sun-shine all day At night we sailed with three Boats into the Ice before the Weigatt and got three white Bears an old one with two young ones they swam in the water like fish On the Ice lay abundance of Sea-horses and the further we came into the Ice there were the more of them we rowed up to them and when we came near to them we killed ten of them the rest came all about our Boat and beat holes through the sides of the Boat so that we took in abundance of water we were forced at length to row away from them because of their great number for they gathered themselves more and more together they pursued us as long as we could see them very furiously Afterwards we met with another very great one who lay in the water fast asleep but when he felt our Harpoon within him he was very much frightned and ran away before the Boat again where he was soon eased of his fright by our Lances We saw but very few Whales more and those we did see were quite wild that we could not come near them That night it was so dark and foggy that we could hardly see the Ships length we might have got Sea-horses enough but we were afraid of loosing our Ships for we had examples enough of them that had lost their Ships and could not come to them again but have been forced to return home in other Ships When after this manner any have lost their Ships and cannot be seen they discharge a Cannon from the Ship or sound the Trumpets or Haut-boys according as they are provided in their Ships that the men that are lost may find their Ship again On the 13th we had cloudy Sun-shine the wind towards night turned to North-east and by east The Ice came a floating down apace we sailed from the South-east Land to the west and we could but just get through by the North side from the Bear-Harbour or Bay We sailed on to the Rehenfelt or Deer-field where the Ice was already fixed to the Land so that we could but just get through we sailed further to the Vogelsanck Birds-song as you may see by b in the Plate D. Then we turned toward the East with a North-east wind in company with twelve Ships more to see whether there were any more Whales left with George and Cornelius Mangelsen and Michael Appel who sailed in four fathoms water and touched upon the wreck of a Ship that was lost there On the 14th in the morning we sailed still amongst the Ice the wind being North-east and by east we had a fogg all that day with Sun-shine with a Rainbow of two colours white and pale yellow and it was very cold and we saw the Sun a great deal lower On the 15th it was windy cold and foggy the whole day the wind turned North-west and the Ice came on in abundance so that we could hardly sail for it was every where full of small sheets of Ice At this time there were many ships beset with Ice in the Deer or Muscle-Bay We sailed all along near the shoar and at night we entred the South-Harbour marked with c in the Cut D where 28 Ships lay at Anchor 8 whereof were Hamburgers the rest Dutchmen From that time when we sailed out of the South-haven we kept always within sight of the Land and saw it always except it was foggy and so long the Skippers stay by the Ice to see whether there is any more Whales to be had That night we fetched water from the Land near the Cookery of Harlingen out of a hole marked by b in the Plate C. On the 16th in the morning we saw the Moon and afterwards it was windy with abundance of snow On the 18th we had fair weather with Sun-shine and we were also becalmed that we could not sail wherefore we towed with a Boat into the Danish Harbour to gather some Herbs from the Rocks In the South-Haven rode 30 Ships at Anchor On the 19th we had warm Sun-shine and fair weather but in the night stormy and rain On the 20th storms rain and a great deal of snow the wind South-west On the 21th rain all day long CHAP. II. Of our home Voyage from Spitzbergen to the Elbe ON the 22th day of July in the morning when the Sun was North-east we waied our Anchors and sailed out of the South-Haven we had a fogg all day long and Sun-shine at night in the night we saw abundance of Fin-fishes On the 24th it was so warm with Sun-shine that the Tarr wherewith the Ship was daubed over melted we drove it being calm before the Haven or Bay of Magdalen On the 25th it was cloudy and Sun-shine but cold withal at night we came to the Forelands the night was foggy the wind South-west On the 26th we had the very same weather all day the Sun was very low in the night On the 28th we turned from the side of the North-Foreland towards the west when the Sun was South-east and we did sail South-west and by west towards the Sea then we changed our Course southwards and stood South-east On the 29th 30th and 31th we sailed South-east and by south all along by the Land the south side of the Foreland was 8 Leagues from us bearing North-east then we sailed South-west and by south it was very cold with a North-west wind We saw daily abundance of Fin-fishes but no more Whales On the 9th of August it was windy all day with a gloomy Sun-shine in the forenoon it cleared up towards noon the wind was South-east when we took the Meridian heighth of the Sun and were at 66 degrees 47 minutes we sailed South-westward all along the Northern shoar of the Country On the 13th being Sunday in the morning the wind was North-west stormy with rain and west winds In the night we had very clear Moon and Star-light In the morning we saw the northern part of Hitland we sailed southward after the rain we saw Fair-Isle and sailed in betwixt Hitland and Fair-Isle first South-west and afterwards South-west and by south and then southward On the 20th it was fair weather warm Sun-shine and somewhat windy When the day began to appear we saw Hilgeland South-eastward of us
when we sailed South-east there we took in a Pilot on purpose chosen by the Magistrates of Hamburg On the 29th it was fair weather and warm Sun-shine all day we sailed before the Elbe and lay at Anchor by the first Buoy called the Red-Buoy in the afternoon we weighed our Anchor and sailed to Kucks-Haven in the night we had thunder and lightning and rain The End of the first Part. THE SECOND PART OF THE VOYAGE TO SPITSBERGEN CONTAINING The Description of Spitzbergen CHAP. I. Of the External Face and Appearance of Spitsbergen It seemeth because the Ice stands firm and floats not as that in the Sea doth that there should be land not far behind it As the highest Countries are surrounded with Mountains as a Fortification is with Walls and Works so are these Countries naturally surrounded with high Hills The inward Condition of this Country we do not know but it seemeth since we see one Hill behind another that it is so throughout the whole Country At the Muscle-Haven or Muscle-Bay we find plainer and leveller Ground and the farther we sail toward the East the Ground groweth the lower yet it is all stony and with prospects of smaller Hills it doth not look at all as if it could be inhabited by Men. I believe also that the Land there must of necessity be lower and lower for else we should see it higher above the other as we do the other Mountains Concerning the Beasts that live on this Land I believe they come over the Ice in the Spring when the Ice stands firm into these Countries and that the same way they go away from thence again when the long nights begin Concerning the Birds we have partly a good account of them their places and food is known as I shall mention when I come to write of them When on the 18th of June on a Sunday in the forenoon we first came to the Foreland of Spitzbergen the foot of these Mountains looked like fire and the tops of them were coverwith foggs the snow was marbel'd and look'd as if it were boughs of branches of Trees and gave as bright and glorious a shining of gloss to the Air or Skies as if the Sun had shin'd When the Mountains look thus fiery a hard storm generally ensues These Countries are in the Winter encompassed with Ice from divers places according as the winds blow as if it be East from Nova Zembla if North-west form Greenland and the Island of John Mayen it also happeneth sometimes that the Land is begirt with Ice in the Summer as they have often seen that go thither every year But when the Ice comes floating on too hard or in too great a quantity then the Ships make to the Harbours Havens Bays or Rivers as they call them that run up into the Country the wind useth to receive us something unkindly when we sail into them roaring over the dry Hills with small Whirl-winds The water in these Rivers is salt We meet here with no fresh Streams or Rivolets nor did I ever see a Spring there Of some Rivers we know their beginning of others it cannot found out because of the danger of the Ice which they are never free from some because of the hidden Rocks underneath the water which are discovered by the vehement breaking of the Sea or by great quantity of white foam The Names of the Havens you find all in order one after another in the Map of Spitzbergen as far as we have been These Havens they reckon to be the safest viz. the Safe-Harbour and the South and North-Bay which are the most known of any in Spitzbergen The other Havens of what names soever we commonly sail by because they lye open to the Sea Others we pass by because of the constant Ice that is in them and the hidden Rocks In the South or North-Haven or Bay ride commonly the most Ships I told several times ten twenty nay thirty Ships that lay at Anchor as your may see in the Plates C and D marked with c and d. Concerning the Birds we see abundance more of them by and on the Land then among the Ice chiefly when they hatch their Eggs we do not find they make their Nest up with far-fetcht things neither do they gather any thing for them from Norway Schetland or the like The Seeds of several Herbs might grow in Spitzbergen but the Herbs nature hath bestowed on those Countries are such as are fit for the Diseases and Distempers that are common there We saw abundance of Sea-horses by Spitzbergen on the low Land and upon the Ice but we saw but very few Seales on the Ice thereabout The Country as is aforesaid is stony and quite throughout it are high Mountains and Rocks Below at the feet of the Mountains stand the Hills of Ice very high and reach to the tops of the Mountains the Cliffs are filled up with Snow wherefore these Snow-Mountains show very strange to those that never saw them before they appear like dry Trees with Branches and Twigs and when the Snow falleth upon them they get Leaves as it were which soon after melt and others come in the room of them There are seven large Ice-Mountains in a Line in these Countries that lye between the high Rocks which look of a glorious blew colour as also is the Ice with a great many cracks and Holes in them they are hollowed out melted away and cut in Groves by the rain and snow-water that runs down they are increased greatly by the Snow as the other Ice that swimmeth in the Sea is also they are augmented likewise by the melted Snow from the Rocks and from the Rain that falls on them These seven Mountains of Ice are esteemed to be the highest in the Country indeed they shewed very high as we sailed by them underneath the Snow look'd dark from the shades of the Skies which shewed very neat and curious with the blew cracks where the Ice was broken off About the middle of the Mountains some foggy Clouds hovered over above these the Snow was very bright The true Rocks look't fiery and the Sun shin'd pale upon them the Snow giving the Air a bright reflection They were covered with Clouds so that you could scarce see the tops of them Some of these Rocks are but one stone from the bottom to the top appearing like an old decayed Wall they smell very sweet as the green Fields do in our Country in the Spring when it rains See c c in the Plate C. The stones for the most part are vein'd differently like Marble with red white and yellow at the alteration of the weather the stones sweat and by that means the Snow is stained or coloured and also if it raineth much the water runs down by the Rocks and from thence the Snow is tinged red On the foot of the Mountains where no mounts of Ice stand lye great loose Rocks as they chance to be fall'n one upon the other with
English Haven on the other side is the place where the dead are buried this is something even like earth but it is levelled on purpose Behind these Houses are high Mountains if one climbeth upon these as we do on others and doth not mark every step with Chalk one doth not know how to get down again When you go up you think it to be very easie to be done but when you are to descend it is very difficult and dangerous so that many have fallen and lost their lives The River there is called the South Harbour or Bay and if the Ships suffer any damage at Sea they refit there At the entry into the South Harbour in the Valley between the Mountains is collected great quantities of fresh Water from the Snow and Rain upon the shoar stand abundance of Kardels or Barrels we used this Water for our Victuals and other occasions it is also found in the Clifts of the Icy-hills on shoar but true Springs out of the Ground I never saw in Spitzbergen The shoar there is not very high but the water is deep there was no Ice at all to be seen in it from whence I conclude that it had not been a severe Winter for it is impossible that the Ice could have been melted in so short a time not only here but also in the English Haven or Bay where the Ice stood firm still and hardly lay above half a Fathom under water The Ice doth melt much sooner in Salt-water than in fresh River-water but yet it is impossible that so thick Ice could have melted in so short a time We saw also that the Snow melted on the tops of the high Rocks and the water ran down although it was there much colder then below yet above and below it melted alike differently from what I observed since in Spain in the Month of December 1672. the wind being North-west when the Rain fell below about a quarter of a League yet above it the Mountains were all covered with Snow all in the streight Line one not higher than the other as if they had been levell'd In the Northern Haven or Bay lyeth a very large Mountain flat at top this Island is called the Birds Song from the great number of them that build and hatch there for when they fly up they make so great a noise that one can hardly hear his own words This is marked with b in the Cut D. Beside these there are more Islands named in the Map as the Clifted Rock and such other The Rehenfeld is a low Land and it is called so from the Deer commonly seen there I was informed that it is all Slats that stand up edgewise so that it is very troublesome to go on it is all over-grown with Moss There is a Hill upon it that looketh like fire Behind the Rehenfeld are high Mountains again they are not pointed at top they lye as it were in a Line by the Rehenfeld runs up a River into the Country and is called the Halfmoon-Bay from its shape On the other side of the River is a Mountain flat at the top and full of cracks all filled up with Snow Then cometh the Liefde-Bay Bay of Love where two Hills stand together very like unto Spitzbergen at Magdalens Bay and those two Harbours are very much like one another Then we come to lower Ground behind the Muscle Harbour where the Grass was so high that it covered our ankles as far as we went Next is the Weihgatt or the Straights of Hindelopen The Weihgatt is called so from the Winds for weihen signifieth blowing because a very strong South-wind bloweth out of it On the Bear-Haven upon the Land are all red stones Behind the Weihg att followeth the South-west Land which is also low it seemeth as if it was adorned with small Hills then follow the seven Islands which we could see We saw no Ships go any farther neither could I understand that ever any Ships did go farther nor can they go so far every year towards the East because of the danger of the Ice that swimmeth and is brought from thence by the wind and stream In May and June is the best fishing in the Ice between the Island of John Mayen and Spitzbergen In July and August the Whales run Eastward by Spitzbergen we saw at the latter end many Whales that run to the Weigatt It is unknown whether the Haven of this Weigatt goeth through the Country or no. But this is not that Weigatt whereof so many things are written More I do not knwo of this Country Rocks and Snow and Ice-hills we find in abundance there and the Creatures that live upon them I shall describe hereafter CHAP. II. Of the SEA THE Waves begin to raise themselves at first from a small breeze of wind and by the increase and continuance of the breeze they grow longer higher and bigger The Sea is not immediately made rough in the beginning of high winds but the Waves swell by degrees and slowly until they come to be as bigg as Mountains then they expand and break themselves and fall over with dashing and foaming as you may see by k in the Cut D Then the following Wave from behind raisith it again with much curled and foaming Scum neatly spotted with the white Foam looking like Marble This breaking and foaming of the Waves is successively repeated So the swelling Waves continually follow one another moving before the wind with a quick motion but when these Waves are short they dash over the Ship and break much so that the Ship is hardly able to live In stormy weather little Waves curle on the top of the great ones and lesser again upon them The Ships do not feel these smaller Waves but only the great ones that are called Sea-Mountains which heave and mount the Ship with them but nevertheless she always keeps her strait way through these unpathed Waves which is wonderful to behold In a hard storm the froth of the Sea drives like dust and looketh as when the wind driveth the Snow along upon the Ice or as the Dust of the Earth does in dry weather and you see the Sea every where to look like curled Ice that when it is a freezing is hindred from it by the wind all covered with a white foam and one Wave blows over the precedent with a great roaring and noise as if a Water-mill were a going and this same noise the Ships make likewise when they cut through the Sea It is also to be observed that the Waves dash against one another when the wind changeth and cross over through one another with great dashing over the Ships before they move all one and the same way I did not observe here the Seawater so clear nor found it so salt as near the Ice it may be by reason of the shallow ground or bottom and the many fresh Rivers that run into it or because the Frost cleareth the water more Concerning the manner of
it his Feathers are so thick which I conclude because he is not easily shot but will endure a great blow nor is it easie to kill him with a Stick at one blow When they steer themselves in the Water with their Legs they have countinually an eye upon their Prey yet they mind both the Man and their Prey but if you have a long Stick they cannot get up so soon or swift but you may have a blow at them He is the first and commonest Bird of all you see in Greenland they cry all togehter and it sounds afar off as if they were Frogs He walks but ill upon the Land and Ice like a Child that just learns to go but he understands better to fly you see him always near unto the surface of the Water for he is very light Of all the Birds of Prey I believe he hath the least Meat on him He builds his Nest high on the Mountains yet not so very high as the Bungermeister yet it was too high for me I could not come at them His Breast and Legs only are to be eaten they are tough and taste strong of Train oyl when you will eat them you must hang them up by the Legs that the Fat of the Whales or the Train-oyl may run out of them for two or three day and that the Wind may blow thro' them and the Frost pierce then also them you lay them into fresh Water that the rankness may be drawn out afterwards boil and fry them in Butter They are every where seen in the North Sea as I have said before yet they are differing This that you see here I did design among the Ice the first of June Tab. N at c. CHAP. III. of some other Birds that I did not catch or delineate AMongst these are the Red Gees which were shewn unto me as they were flying They are Geese with long Legs that fly in flocks there is many of them in Russia Norway and Jutland Then I saw another Bird flying singly with broad Feet a very handsom Bird called John of Ghent it is as big as a Stork and of the same shape with white and black Feathers he hovers in the Air and moveth his Wings but very little when he cometh to the Ice he turns back again It is a kind of a Hawk and I have reason to believe that he hath a very sharp sight for he shoots down from a great height into the Water They say that the Brains of this Bird are in great esteem but for what I could never learn He is also seen in the Spanish Sea and every where in the North Sea but most commonly he is seen where they catch Herrings I was also informed that a black Crow was seen in Spitzbergen other Birds are not seen there except it may be now and then a single one that strays and so cometh thither as the crow did All these Birds come at certain times and abide at this place as long as the Sun shines afterwards when the Cold begins to encrease and the Nights lengthen every one of them returns to its own place again When they are going from thence they gather all together and when they are all met they fly away every kind by themselves which hath been very often observed Whence I conclude they cannot live in this intolerable cold place in the Winter They rest as well upon the Water as the Land and when they fly up they look against the Wind for else they would quite be tired in this long Journey Whether the Mew called Rathsher that does not love the Water performs its Journey in one day I cannot tell or whether Necessity compels him to rest upon the Water Which way those Birds that have divided Claws on their Feet as the Snite the Snow-bird and the Ice-bird get over the Water I know not CHAP. IV. Of the Four-footed Creatures I. Of the Hart or Deer This is not very unlike unto the Hart it hath cloven Feet like it and its Horns are also like unto a Hart or Elke they have three or four branches on each side which are about two inches broad and about a foot long their Ears are long and Tail very short He is of a greyish yellow colour like an Hart or Deer When they see a Man they run away if you stand still they stand also then you must immediately fire at them if you have a mind to hit them They eat the Herbs and Grass They are every where about Spitzbergen but above all in the Rene-field or Deers-field that hath its Name from thence where they 'r very plentiful and also upon the Foreland near the muscle haven I never saw them swim in the Water As I was informed some Men did kill 15 or 20 of them on the Vogel-song Birds-song the meat thereof roasted is of a very pleasant taste We killed some of them presently at our first arrival in the Spring that were very lean wherefore we may conclude that they remain in this barren and cold Country of Spitzbergen all winter long and are contented with what they can get See Tab. O at a. II. Of the Fox Between our Foxes and those of Spitzbergen there is no great difference one of them I saw run by our Ship very near it his Head was black and Body white They make such a noise as afar off it sounds as if a Man laugh'd we saw them also run on the Ice Their Food falls but short there they live upon Birds and Eggs. They go not at all into the Water we were hunting one of them in the South Haven and had surrounded him with twenty Men the Water was on one side of him and we endeavoured to drive him into it but he would not but jumped through one Man's Legs and run up into the Mountains where we could not follow him The Ships Crew inform'd me that when he is hungry he lies down as if he was dead until the Birds fly to him to eat him which by that trick he catches and eats But I believe that this is a Fable Tab. O see b. III. Of the white Bear These Bears are quite otherwise shaped than those that are seen in our Country they have a long Head like unto a Dog and a long Neck and they bark like Dogs that are hoarse and all their whole Body is much otherways shaped than ours They are slenderer in the Body and a great deal swifter Their Skins are brought to us which are very comfortable to those that travel in the Winter they prepare or dress the Skins at Coffins that are opened They also eat Birds and Eggs. We kill them with Guns or any other way we can We caught three of them one whereof I drew after the life on the 13th of July What becometh of these Bears and Foxes in the Winter-time I do not know in the Summer they have in some places for a few months Provision enough but in the Winter when the Rocks
bigger than I have delineated them We saw many of them in the South Harbour at Spitzbergen on the 20th day of June Amongst the Ice I saw none The Seamen take these small Fish for Spiders and I should also have taken them to be such if I had not had them in my Hand and looked more couriously upon them and found they they had no affâ—nity at all with the Spiders In the Tab. Q it is marked with e. III. Of the Hat Slime-fish It s upper part is like the Fungusses or Toad-stools for it is as it were a round and thick Stalk that goes just into the middle of the Head It hath a blew Button or Knob that is as thick again as the Stalk And this upper part may also be compared unto such a Straw Hat as our Women wear From the Stalk downwards it doth grow thick again and round yet it is a great deal less than the Button I have seen them force themselves up from below and then from the top down again just as a Stick that is forced down underneath the Water reboundeth up again I got them in the North Sea between holly-Holly-Land and the Elbe where the Sea-water mingles with that of the Elbe I have also seen them at Kuck's-Haven in the Elbe And I am also informed that sometimes they come as far down as to Freyburg By reason of its shape it may be called The Hat Slime-fish or Stalk Slime-fish IV. Of the Rose-like-shaped Slime-fish This Slime-fish is a round as a Circle yet in his circumference between his double strokes a little indented The Rays spring out single from the middle of the Body and there are sixteen of them in number but they divide themselves into two branches wheer they run somewhat closer together and are split in two The Body thereof is white and transparent as is mentioned before he draws it together and opens it again as he pleaseth but the Rays or Spokes are brownish red On the end of these Spokes towards the outward circumference are several Spots 32 in number In the middle of this Plate is another small Circle and from the circumference of that the before-named Spokes begin It is hollow within which Cavity may perhaps be his Belly wherein I found two or three of the small Shrimps Round about did hang down seven brown small Threads like spun Silk or like unto the Threads that flye in the Air about Autumn he cannot move these I believe he weigh'd about half a pound he was about half a span broad the Threads were about a span long This sort we got about Hitland One might very well call him the Plate or Rose-like Slime-fish by reason of his figure and shape I have heard some relate that the Macarels do suck their Colour out of these two but I cannot affirm it but leave it undecided until I can assert it by my own Experience These three first Sea-qualms are numerous in the North Sea as Atomes in the Air but about Spitzbergen we do not find many of them I have seen them swim at top only in calm weather but in stormy weather they sink to the bottom V. Of the Slime-fish like a Cap. At Spitzbergen near the Muscle-Harbour on the 8th of July when the weather was calm I saw two sorts of Slime-fish whereof one had six the other eight Corners That with six Corners had also six purple Streaks with blew Brims Between these Streaks the Body is divided like unto a Pumpkin into six Ribs From the middle of his Body hang down two Threads that are red like Vermilion and rough of small Hairs they are shaped like unto the Letter V I did not see him move them when he swam Within his Body he hath other broader Streaks of a purple colour and on the edges or brims of a lightish blew one they represent themselves like unto a great W The whole Body is as white as Milk and not so transparent as thâ— Body of that that cometh next It is shaped just like a Cap with Corners wherefore one might call it the Cap-like Fish It is about as big again as it is delineated here It weighed about two ounces I did not perceive when I had him in my Hand that he did burn me but it dissolved like snot or Slime In the Tab. P it is marked with g. VI. Of the Slime-fish like a Fountain The sixth and last is a very notable Fish it hath a hole at the top like unto a Quill of a Goose that may perhaps be his Mouth which goes into a cavity like a Funnel wherefore we might call him a Funnel-fish From this hole coem down four Strokes two and two exactly opposite to one another two of them are cut transversedly and two are not cut Those that are not cut are about half the breadth of a Straw and the others that are like unto the Backâ—bones of a Snake are as broad as a Straw both of them come down beyond the middle of the whole Body From the middle of the Funnel come down four others like unto the Back bones of a Snake and they come down lower than the others so that all of them make eight in number They changed their colour as we looked upon them into blew yellow and red with such delicate colours as a Rainbow They looked in my Eyes to be like unto a Fountain with eight Streams or Spouts wherefore we might call it a Fountain-fish with eight Streams Within him came down from the end of the Funnel something like a Cloud that divides itself into rows which I take to be his Intrails Where the before-mentioned outward Streaks end themselves the Body is first bent in somewhat then it turns round and there it hath many small Streaks The whole Body is as white as Milk of the same bigness as it is here delineated I believe it weighed about four ounces I did not perceive that he did burn ones Skin but he did like him I mentioned before dissolve like Slime Since I have seen other sorts of these Sea-nettles in the Spanish Sea that weighed several pounds and they were of a blew purple yellowish and white colour that burn more violently than those of the North Sea they suck themselves so close to the Skin that they raise Blisters and cause sometimes St. Anthony's Fire The Cutts whereof together with the Description I hope to communicate to the Reader at another time This is marked with h in the Tab. P. The Whale fishing killing of Morsses Supplem t. Tab S. Pag. 179. A SUPPLEMENT To Capt. Wood's and Marten's North-East Voyages CONTAINING Some Observations and Navigations to the North-West of Groneland and other Northern Regions A SUPPLEMENT To Capt. Wood's and Marten's North-east Voyages c. CHERRY and other Islands OUR Men conceive Greenland to be broken ken Land or a great number of Islands at least very near to one another On the West side they discovered as far as 82 deg the most