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A13485 The pennyles pilgrimage, or The money-lesse perambulation, of Iohn Taylor, alias the Kings Majesties water-poet How he trauailed on foot from London to Edenborough in Scotland, not carrying any money to or fro, neither begging, borrowing, or asking meate, drinke or lodging. With his description of his entertainment in all places of his iourney, and a true report of the vnmatchable hunting in the brea of Marre and Badenoch in Scotland. With other obseruations, some serious and worthy of memory, and some merry and not hurtfull to be remembred. Lastly that (which is rare in a trauailer) all is true. Taylor, John, 1580-1653. 1618 (1618) STC 23784; ESTC S118255 31,268 54

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wife and modest daughter Besse With Earth and Heau'ns felicity God blesse Two dayes a man of his at his command Did guide me to the midst of Westmerland And my Conductor with a liberall fist To keepe me moyst scarce any Alehouse mist. The fourth of August weary halt and lame We in the darke t a Towne call'd Sebder came There Maister Borrowd my kinde honest Host Vpon me did bestow vnasked cost The next day I held on my iourney still Sixe miles vnto a place call'd Carling hill Where Maister Edmond Branthwaite doth recide Who made me welcome with my man and guide Our entertainement and our fare was such It might haue satisfied our betters much Yet all too little was his kinde heart thought And fiue miles on my way himselfe me brought At Orton he I and my man did dine With Maister Corney a good true Diuine And surely Maister Branthwait's well belou'd His firme integrity is much approu'd His good effects doth make him still affected Of God and good men with regard respected He sent his man with me o're Dale and Downe Who lodg'd and borded me at Peereth Towne And such good cheere and bedding there I had That nothing but my weary selfe was bad There a fresh man I know not for whose sake With me a iourney would to Carlile make But from that Citie about two miles wide Good Sir Iohn Dalston lodg'd me and my guide Of all the Gentlemen in England bounds His house is neerest to the Scottish grounds And Fame proclaimes him farre and neere aloud He 's free from being couetous or proud His sonne Sir George most affable and kinde His fathers image both in forme and minde On Saturday to Carlile both did ride Where by their loues and leaues I did abide Where of good entertainement I found store From one that was the Mayor the yeare before His name is Maister Adam Robinson I the last English friendship with him won He gratis found a guide to bring me thorough From Carlile to the Citie Edinborough This was a helpe that was a helpe alone Of all my helps inferiour vnto none Fight miles from Carlile runnes a little Riuer Which Englands bounds from Scotlands grounds doth seuer Without Horse Bridge or Boate I o're did get On foote I went yet scarce my shooes did wet I being come to this long look'd for land Did marke remarke note renote viewd and scand And I saw nothing that could change my will But that I thought my selfe in England still The Kingdomes are so neerely ioyn'd and fixt There scarcely went a paire of Sheares betwixt There I saw skie aboue and earth below And as in England there the Sunne did shew The hills with Sheepe repleate with Corne the dale And many a cottage yeelded good Scotch Ale This County Avandale in former times Was the curst climate of rebellious crimes For Cumberland and it both Kingdomes borders Were euer ordred by their owne disorders Such sha king shifting cutting throates and thieuing Each taking pleasure in the others grieuing And many times he that had wealth to night Was by the morrow morning beggerd quite To many yeares this pell-mell furie lasted That all these borders were quite spoyl'd and wasted Confusion hurly-burly raign'd and reueld The Churches with the lowly ground were leueld All memorable monuments defac'd All places of defence o'rethrowne and rac'd That who so then did in the borders dwell Liu'd little happier then those in hell But since the all-disposing God of heauen Hath these two Kingdomes to one Monarch giuen Blest peace and plenty on them both hath showr'd Exile and hanging hath the theeues deuowr'd That now each subiect may securely sleepe His Sheepe and neate the blacke the white doth keepe For now those Crownes are both in one combinde Those former borders that each one confinde Appeares to me as I doe vnderstand To be almost the Center of the land This was a blessed heauen expounded riddle To thrust great Kingdomes skirts into the middle Long may the instrumentall cause suruiue From him and his succession still deriue True heires vnto his vertues and his throane That these two Kingdomes euer may be one This County of all Scotland is most poore By reason of the outrages before Yet mighty store of Corne I saw there growe And as good grasse as euer man did mowe And as that day I twenty miles did passe I saw eleuen hundred Neat at grasse By which may be coniectur'd at the least That there was sustenance for man and beast And in the Kingdome I haue truly scand There 's many worser parts are better mand For in the time that theeuing was in vre The Gentles fled to places more secure And left the poorer sort t' abide the paine Whilest they could ne're finde time to turne againe That Shire of Gentlemen is scarce and dainty Yet there 's reliefe in great aboundance plenty Twixt it and England little oddes I see They eate and liue and strong and able bee So much in Verse and now I le change my stile And seriously I 'le write in Prose a while To the purpose then my first nights Lodging in Scotland was at a place called Mophot which they say is thirty miles from Carlile but I suppose them to be longer then forty of such miles as are betwixt London and S. Albanes but indeed the Scots doe allow almost as large measure of their miles as they doe of their drinke for an English Gallon either of Ale or Wine is but their quart and one Scottish mile now and then may well stand for a mile and a halfe or two English but howsoeuer short or long I found that dayes iourney the weariest that euer I footed and at night being come to the Towne I found good ordinary Countrey entertainment my fare and my lodging was sweete and good and might haue serued a far better man then my selfe although my selfe haue had many times better but this is to be noted that though it Rained not all the day yet it was my fortune to be well wet twise for I waded ouer a great Riuer called Eske in the morning somewhat more then 4. miles distance from Carlile in England and at night within two miles of my lodging I was faine to wade ouer the Riuer of Annan in Scotland from which Riuer the County of Annandale hath it's name And whilst I waded on foote my man was mounted on horse-backe like the George without the Dragon But the next morning I arose and left Mophot behind me and that day I trauailed twenty one miles to a sory Village called Blithe but I was blithe my selfe to come to any place of harbour or succour for since I was borne I neuer was so weary or so neere being dead with extreame trauell I was founderd and refounderd of all foure and for my better comfort I came so late that I must lodge without doore all night or else in a poore house where the good wife lay
which hee receiued with many thankes and saide that if euer hee could requite it hee would I had no sooner tolde this tale but Sr. Henry Witherington did acknowledge himselfe to bee the man that I had giuen the Loafe vnto 22. yeares before where I found the Prouerbe true that men haue more priuiledge then mountaines in meeting In what great measure hee did requite so small a courtesie I will relate in this following discourse in my Returne through Northumberland So leauing my man at the towne of Burnt Iland I tolde him I would but goe to Sterling and see the Castle there and withall to see my honourable friends the Earle of Marr and Sir William Murray Knight Lord of Abercarny and that I would returne within two dayes at the most But it fell out quite contrary for it was fiue and thirtie dayes before I could get backe againe out of these Noble-mens company The whole progresse of my trauell with them and the cause of my stay I cannot with gratefulnesse omit and thus it was A worthy Gentleman named Master Iohn Fenton did bring mee on my way sixe miles to Dumfermling where I was well entertained and lodged at Master Iohn Gibb his house one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber and I thinke the oldest Seruant the King hath withall I was well entertained there by Master Crighton at his owne house who went with mee and shewed mee the Queenes Palace a delicate and a princely Mansion withall I saw the ruines of an auncient and stately built Abbey with faire Gardens Orchards and Medowes belonging to the palace all which with faire and goodly Reuenues by the suppression of the Abbey were annexed to the Crowne There also I saw a very faire Church which though it be now very large and spacious yet it hath in former times been much larger But I taking my leaue of Dumfermling would needs goe and see the truely noble Knight Sir George Bruce at a Towne called the Cooras there hee made mee right welcome both with varietie of fare and discourse and after all hee commaunded three of his men to direct mee to see his most admirable Cole-mines which if man can or could worke wonders is a wonder for my selfe neither in any trauels that I haue been in nor any History that I haue read or any Discourse that I haue heard did neuer see reade or heare of any worke of man that might parallell or be equiualent with this vnfellowed and vnmatchable worke and though all I can say of it cannot describe it according to the worthinesse of his vigilant industry that was both the occasion Inuentor and Maintainer of it yet rather then the memory of so rare an Enterprise and so accomplisht a profit to the Common-wealth shall bee raked and smothered in the dust of obliuion I will giue a little touch at the description of it although I amongst Writers am like he that worst may holds the candle The Mine hath two wayes into it the one by sea and the other by land but a man may go into it by land and returne the same way if he please and so he may enter into it by sea and by Sea hee may come foorth of it but I for varieties sake went in by Sea and out by Land Now men may obiect how can a man goe into a Mine the entrance of it being in the Sea but that the Sea wil follow him and so drown the Mine To which obiection thus I answer That at a low water the Sea being ebd away and a great part of the sand bare vpon this same sand beeing mixed with rockes and cragges did the Master of this great worke build a round circular frame of stone very thicke strong and ioyned together with glutinous or bitunous matter so high withall that the Sea at the highest flood or the greatest rage of storme or tempest can neither dissolue the stones so well compacted in the building or yet ouerflowe the height of it Within this round frame at all aduentures hee did set workemen to digge vvith Mattockes Pickaxes and other instruments fit for such purposes They did digge more then fourtie foot downeright into and through a Rocke At last they found that which they expected which was Sea-cole they following the veine of the Mine did digge forward still So that in the space of eight and twentie or nine and twenty yeares they haue digged more then an English mile under the Sea that when men are at worke belowe an hundred of the greatest Shippes in Britaine may saile ouer their ●●●ads Besides the Mine is most artificially cut like an Arch or a Vault all that great length vvith many nookes and by-wayes in it and it is so made that a man may walke vpright in the most places both in and out Many poore people are there set on worke which otherwise through the want of imployment would perish But when I had seene the Mine and was come foorth of it againe after my thankes giuen to Sir George Bruce I tolde him that if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England had seene this Mine that they perhaps would haue attempted to haue left the Parliament House and haue vndermined the Thames and so to haue blowne vp the Barges and Wherries wherein the King and all the Estates of our Kingdome were Moreouer I said that I could affoord to turne Tapster at London so that I had but one quarter of a mile of his Mine to make mee a Celler to keepe Beere and Bottle-ale in But leauing these Iestes in Prose I will relate a few Verses that I made merrily of this Mine I That haue wasted Months Weekes Dayes and Howers In viewing Kingdomes Countreys Townes and Towers Without all measure measuring many paces And with my pen describing sundrie places With few additions of my owne deuizing Because I haue a smacke of Coriatizing Our Mandeuill Primaleon Don Quixot Great Amadis or Huon traueld not As I haue done or beene where I haue beene Or heard and seene what I haue heard and seene Nor Britaines Odcomb Zanye braue Vlissis In all his ambling saw the like as this is I was in would I could describe it well A darke light pleasant profitable hell And as by water I was wafted in I thought that I in Charons Boate had bin But being at the entrance landed thus Three men there in the stead of Cerberus Conuaid me in in each ones hand a light To guide vs in that vault of endlesse night There young and old with glim'ring candles burning Digge delue and labour turning and returning Some in a hole with baskets and with baggs Resembling furies and infernall haggs There one like Tantall feeding and there one Lake Sisiphus he rowles the restlesse stone Yet all I saw was pleasure mixt with profit Which prou'd it to be no tormenting Tophet For in this honest worthy harmelesse hell There ne're did any damned Diuell dwell And th' owner of it gaines by 't more true