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A05594 A most delectable and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke With the particular descriptions (more exactly set downe then hath beene heeretofore in English) of Italy Sycilia, Dalmatia, Ilyria, Epire, Peloponnesus, Macedonia, Thessalia, and the whole continent of Greece, Creta, Rhodes, the Iles Cyclades ... and the chiefest countries of Asia Minor. From thence, to Cyprus, Phænicia, Syria ... and the sacred citie Ierusalem, &c. Lithgow, William, 1582-1645? 1616 (1616) STC 15711; ESTC S108584 89,947 136

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Neither may they stay within all night vnder the paine of imprisonment Dalmatia was called so of Mauritius the Emperour The foure principall Prouinces whereof are these Atheos Senebico Spallato and Tragurio A part of which belongeth to Venice another part to the Duke of Austria and the third part vnto the Turkes Zara is distant from Venice 200 miles From Zara I embarked in a small Frigot bound for Lesina with fiue Slauonian Mariners who sometimes sailed and sometimes rowed with their oares In our way we past by the I le of Brazza which is of no great quantity but fertile enough for the Inhabitants and kept by a Gentleman of Venice It lieth in the mouth of the gulfe Narento that diuideth Dalmatia from Slauonia Many conceiue in effect that these two kingdomes are all one but I hold the contrary opinion both by experience and by ancient Authors Hauing passed Capo di Costa which is the beginning of Slauonia I saw vpon my right hand a round rocke of a great height in forme of a Pyramide It is cognominated by Easterne Mariners Pomo anciently Salyro for the good Faulcons that are bred therein It standeth in the middest of the gulfe betweene Slauonia and Italy A little beyond that rocke I saw the thrée Iles Trimiti the chiefest whereof is called Teucria but they are vulgarly called the Iles of Diomedes who was King of Etolla They are right opposite to Mount Gargano now called S. Angelo and distant from the maine land of Pulia in Italy about nine miles The poore Slauonians beeing fatigated in their hunger-starued-Boat with extraordinary paines for wee had thrée dayes calme which is not vsually séene in these seas were inforced to repose all night in the barren I le of Saint Andrew this I le is of circuit foure miles but not inhabited The excessiue raine that fell in the euening made vs goe on shore to séeke the couerture of some rocke which found wee lay all night on hard stones and with hungry bellies for our prouision was spent The breach of day giuing comfort to our distressed bodies with fauourable windes at the Garbo è ponente we set forward and about mid-day we arriued in the port of Lesina of which the Ile taketh the name This I le of Lesina is of circuit 150 miles and is the biggest Iland in the Adriaticke sea it is excéeding fertile and yéeldeth all things plentifully that is requisitite for the sustenance of man This Citie is vnwalled and of no great quantitie but they haue a strong fortresse which defendeth the towne the Hauen and the vessels in the road The Gouernor who was a Venetian after he had enquired of my intended voyage most courteously inuited mee three times to his table in the time of my fiue dayes staying there And at the last méeting hée reported the Story of a maruellous mis-shapen creature borne in that Iland asking if I would go thither to sée it Wherewith when I perfectly vnderstood the matter I was contented the Gentleman honoured mee also with his company and a horse to ride on where when wee came the Captaine called for the father of that Monster to bring him forth before vs. Which vnnaturall childe being brought I was amazed in that sight to behold the deformitie of Nature for below the middle part there was but one body and aboue the middle there was two liuing soules each one separated from another with seuerall members Their heads were both of one bignesse but different in Phisnomy the belly of the one ioyned with the posterior part of the other and their faces looked both on one way as if the one had carried the other on his back and often before our eyes he that was behinde would lay his hands about the necke of the formost Their eyes were excéeding bigge and their hands greater then an infants of three times their age the excrements of both creatures issued forth at one place and their thighes and legges of a great growth not semblable to their age being but sixe and thirty dayes old and their féet were proportionably made like the foote of a Cammell round and slouen in the middest They receiued their food with an insatiable desire and continually mourned with a pittifull noyse that sorrowfull man told vs that when the one slept the other awaked which was a strange disagréement in nature The Mother of them bought déerely that birth with the losse of her owne life and as her husband reported vnspeakable was the torment she endured in that woefull-wrestling paine I was also informed afterwardes that this one or rather two-fold wretch liued but a short while Leauing this monstrous shapen Monster to the owne strange and almost incredible natiuity we returned to Lesina But by the way of our backe-comming I remember that worthy Gentleman shewed mee the ruines of an old house where the noble King Demetrius was borne and after I had yéelded my bounden and dutifull thankes vnto his generous minde I hired a Fisher-boat to go ouer to Clyssa being 12 miles distant This I le of Clyssa is of length twenty and of circuit thréescore miles it is beautified with two profitable Sea-ports and vnder the Seigniorie of Venice There are indifferent good commodities therein vpon the South-side of this Iland lyeth the Ile Pelagusa Departing from thence in a Carmoesalo bound to Ragusa wee sailed by the thrée Iles Brisca Placa Igezi and when we entred in the gulfe of Cataro we fetched vp the sight of the I le Melida called of old Meligna Before wee could attaine vnto the Hauen wherein our purpose was to stay all night we were assailed on a sudden with a deadly storme In so much that euery swallowing waue threatned our death and bred in our breasts an intermingled sorrow of feare and hope The windes becomming calme and our desired safety enioyed we set forward in the gulfe of Cataro and sailed by the I le Curzola In this Iland I saw a Walled Towne called Curzola which hath two strong fortresses to guard it It is both commodious for the traffique of Merchandise they haue and also for the fine wood that groweth there whereof the Venetian Shippes and Gallies are made An Iland no lesse delightfull then profitable and the two Gouernors thereof are changed euery eightéene moneths by the State of Venice It was of old called Curcura Melana and of some Corcira nigra but by the Modernes Curzola Continuing our course we passed by the Iles Sabionzello Torquolla and Catza Augusta appertaining to the Republicke of Ragusa They are all three well inhabited and fruitfull yeelding cornes wines and certaine rare kinds of excellent fruits It is dangerous for great vessels to come neere their coasts because of the hidden shelues that lye off in the Sea called Augustini where diuers shippes haue been cast away in foule weather vpon the second day after our loosing from Clyssa we arriued at Ragusa Ragusa is a Common-weale gouerned by Senators and a Senate
is celebrated in these verses Extollit Paduam iuris studium medicinae Verona humanae dat singula commoda vitae Exhaurit loculos Ferrarea ferrea plenos I commend the deuotion of Venice and Genua beyond all the other Cities in Italy For the Venetians haue banished the Iesuites out of their Territories and Ilands And the Genueses haue abandoned the society of Iewes and exposed them from their iurisdiction The Iewes and the Iesuites are brethren in blasphemies for the Iewes are naturally subtill hatefull auaritious and aboue all the greatest calumniators of Christs name And the ambitious Iesuites are Flatterers Bloudy-gospellers treasonable Tale-tellers and the onely railers vpon the sincere life of good Christians Wherefore I end with this verdict the Iew and the Iesuite is a Pultrone and a Parasite A Description of the Adriaticall and Ionean Ilands how they haue beene first named and now gouerned of Istria Dalmatia Slauonia Epire Peloponnesus and Athens of a Monster borne in Lesina and what dangers befell him in his voyage to Creta AFter 24 dayes attendance and expecting for passage I imbarked in a Carmoesalo being bound to Zara Noua in Dalmatia Scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice but wee incountred with a deadly storme at Seroco è Leuante The maister had no compasse to direct his course neither was hee expert in Nauigation because they vse commonly either on the South or North sides of the Gulfe to hoyse vp sailes at night and against breake of day they haue full sight of land taking their directions from the topped hilles of the maine continent The tempest increasing and the windes contrary wee were constrained to seeke vp for the Port of Parenzo in Istria Istria was first called Giapidia according to Pliny Cato affirmeth that it was Istria of one Isiro but by the moderne writers l'ultima regione di Italia By Ptolomeus it is said to be of length 120 miles and 40 large That part which bordereth with the sea belongeth to the Venetians but the rest within land holdes of the Emperour and the Archduke of Austria The countrey it selfe aboundeth in Cornes Wines and all manner of fruits necessary for humane life Néere to this hauen wherein we lay expecting roome windes I saw the ruines of old Iustinopoli so called of Iustinian the Emperour who builded it vpon an Iland of a miles length three acres broad And to passe betwixt the Citie and the firme land there were seuen bridges made It was anciently strong but now altogether decayed The principall Cities in Istria at this day are these Parenzo Humago Pola Rouigno The winds fauouring vs we weighed anchors and sailed by the Iles Brioni so much estéemed for the fine stones they produce called Istriennes which serue to beautifie the Uenetian Palaces About mid-day I saw Mount di Caldaro on the foot of which the ancient Citie of Pola is situated hauing a harbour wherein small shippes may lie True it is this Port is not much frequented in respect of a contagious Lake neere to it which infecteth the aire with a filthy exhalation I saw hard by this place the ruines of the Castell Di Oriando the Arke triumphant and the reliques of a great Amphitheater This Pola was called by Pliny Iulia pietas and it standeth on the South-east part of Istria Continuing our course wee passed the perilous gulfe of Carnaro and sailed close by the I le Sangego called formerly Illirides This I le is of circuit foure score and of length thirty miles Our fresh water waxing scant and the windes falling out contrary to our expectation we sought in to Valdogosta in the I le of Osero which is a safe hauen for ships and Gallies This Osero was first named Asphorus and then Absirtites of a captaine Absertus who came from Colchos accompanied with many people to bring backe Medeas to his father Acetus Whose purpose being frustrated staied still and inhabited this land as witnesseth Apollonius Rhodius A fit opportunity obtained vpon the eight day we arriued in the roade of Zara in Dalmatia for there the Carmoesalo stayed and I was exposed to séeke passage for Ragusa By the way I recall the great kindnesse of that Dalmatian Master for offering my condition I found him more then courteous and would haue no more but the halfe of that which was his bargaine at Venice Besides this hee also entertained mee three dayes with a most bountifull and kinde acceptance My solitary trauelling he oft bewailed wishing me to desist and neuer attempt such a voyage but I giuing him absolute and constant answeres appeased his imagined sorrow The affable dealing of this stranger made me remember the kindnesse of my aforesaid Countrey-man M. Arthur whose externall shew for that time wee trauelled sociably together gaue me the déepe measure of his internall affection for as man oweth no lesse to his natiue Countrey then what his breath and bloud are worth so I for many weighty considerations and especially for that high respect indeuoured my selfe to the vtmost of my power to attempt this fastidious wandring whereby I might manifest to my natiues that zeale I bore in vndertaking such dangers as it were for that neuer-conquered kingdomes sake leauing him to bee the last witnesse of that innated duety which I did owe vnto my deerest Nation whether I returned or died in my atchieuements I also recall our discontented parting at Venice ingendred diuers languishing conceits which I stroue to mitigate by odde deuised merriments yet notwithstanding could not well expell his melancholy for often at our encontrings before into Italy and France I haue heard him sigh in a most melancholious humour which as I did coniecture was for some loue-sicke passion or some such like male-contentment that had enforced him in pilgrimage two times to crosse the snowy Alpes Zara is the Capitall Citie of Dalmatia called of old Iadara The inhabitants are gouerned by a Camarlingo in the behalfe of Venice the walles whereof are strongly rampired with earth surpassing the toppes of the stone-worke and fortified also with high Bulwarkes and planted Canons on eleuated rampires of earth which are aboue forty cubits higher then the walles and bulwars standing in the foure seuerall corners of the Citie There lie continually in it a great garrison of Soldiers to defend the Towne and Citizens who are maintained by the Duke of Venice for he is Seignior thereof They haue endured many inuasions of the Turkes especially in the yeare 1570 when for the space of fouretéene Moneths they were daily molested and besieged but the victory fell euer to the Christians If the Turkes could winne this place they might easily command the Adriaticall Seas in regard of that faire hauen which is there to receiue Shippes and Gallies which maketh the Venetians not a little fearefull Yet they licentiate the neighbouring Infidels to traffique with them but when they enter the gates they must deliuer their Weapons to the Corporall of the squadron company
Councell it is wonderfull strong and also well guarded being situate by the sea side it hath a fine hauen and many goodly ships thereunto belonging The greatest traffique they haue is with the Genueses Their territorie in the firme land is not much in respect of the neighbouring Turkes but they haue certaine commodious Ilands which to them are profitable And notwithstanding of the great strength and riches they possesse yet for their better safegard and liberty they pay a yeerely tribute vnto the great Turke amounting to foureteene thousand Chickenes of Gold yea and also they pay yeerely a tributarie pension vnto the Venetians for the Iles reserued by them in the Adriaticall Gulfe The most part of the ciuill Citizens haue but the halfe of their heads bare but the baser sort are all shauen This Citie is the Metropolitan of the Kingdome of Slauonia Slauonia was first called Liburnia next Iliria of Iliro the son of Cadmus But lastly named Slauonia of certaine slaues that came from Sarmatia passing the riuer Danubio in the time of the Emperour Iustinian So much as is called Slauonia extendeth from the Riuer Arsa in the West the Riuer Drino in the East on the South bordereth with the Gulfe of Venice and on the North with the Mountaines of Croatia These Mountaines diuide also Ragusa from Bosna The next two speciall Cities in that Kingdome are Sabenica and Salona The Slauonians are of a robust nature martiall and valiant fellowes and a great helpe to maintaine the right and liberty of the Venetian state From Ragusa I embarked in a Tartareta loaden with cornes and bound to Corfu being thrée hundred miles distant In all this way we found no Iland but sayled along the maine Land of the Ilirian shore hauing passed the Gulfe of Cataro and Capo di Fortuna I saw Castello nouo which is a strong Fortresse situate on the top of a Rocke wherein one Barbarisso the Captaine of Solyman starued to death foure thousand Spaniards Hauing left Iliria and Valona behind vs wee sayled by Capo di Polone This high land is the furthest part of the Gulfe of Venice and opposite against Capo di Sancta Maria in Pulia each one in sight of an other and foureteene leagues distant Continuing our nauigation we entred into the Sea Ionium and sayled along the coast of Epire which was the famous Kingdome of the Epirotes This is the first land of Greece and vpon the sixt day after our departure from Ragusa wée arriued at Corfu Corfu is an Iland no lesse beautifull then inuincible It lyeth in the Sea Ionean the inhabitants are Greekes and the Gouernours Venetians This Ile was much honoured by Homer for the pleasant Gardens of Alcino which were in his time It is of circuit one hundred and twenty and fifty miles in breadth The Citie Corfu from which the Ile hath the name is situate at the foote of a Mountaine whereupon are builded two strong Fortresses and inuironed with a naturall Rocke The one is called Fortezza noua and the other Fortezza Vechia They are well gouerned and circumspectly kept least by the instigation of the one Captaine the other should commit some treasonable effects And for the same purpose the Gouernours of both Castles at their election before the Senatours of Venice are sworne neither priuately nor openly to haue mutuall conference nor to write one to another for the spare of two yeares which is the time of their gouernement These Castles are inaccessible and vnconquerable if that the Keepers bee loyall and prouided with naturall and martiall furniture They are vulgarly called The Forts of Christendome by the Greekes but more iustly The strength of Venice For if these Castles were taken by the Turkes the Trade of the Venetian Marchants would bee of none account yea the very meane to ouerthrow Venice it selfe From thence I embarked in a Greekish Carmoesalo with a great number of passengers Greekes Slauonians Italians Armenians and Iewes that were all mindfull to Zante and I also of the like intent being in all forty eight persons hauing roome winds and a fresh gale in foure and twenty houres wee discouered the Ile Cephalonia In this meane while the Captaine of the Uessell espied a Saile comming from the Sea hee presently being moued therewith sent a Mariner to the top who certified him she was a Turkish Gally of Biserta prosecuting a straight course to inuade our Barke Which sudden affrighting newes ouerwhelmed vs almost in dispaire Resolution being by the amazed Maister demanded of euery man what was best to do some replyed one way and some another Insomuch that the most part of the passengers gaue counsell rather to render then fight being confident their friends would pay their ransome and so releiue them But I the wandring Pilgrime pondring in my pensiue breast my solitary estate the distance of my Country and Friends could conceiue no hope of deliuerance Upon the which troublesome and fearefull appearance of slauery I absolutely arose and spoke to the Maister saying The halfe of the Carmoesalo is your owne and the most part also of the loading all which hée had told mee before Wherefore my counsell is that you prepare your selfe to fight and goe encourage your passengers promise to your Mariners double wages make ready your two peeces of Ordinance your Muskets Powder Lead and halfe-pikes For who knoweth but the Lord may deliuer vs from the thraldome of these Infidels My exhortation ended hee was greatly animated therewith and gaue me thankes whereupon assembling the passengers and Mariners hee gaue good comfort and large promises to them all So that their affrighted hopes were conuerted to a couragious resolution seeming rather to giue the first assault then to receiue the second wrong To performe the plots of our defence euery man was busie in the worke some below in the Gunner-roome others cleansing the Muskets some preparing the powder and Balles some dressing the halfe-pikes and others making fast the dores aboue for so the Maister resolued to make combate below both to saue vs from small shot and besides for boording vs on a sodaine The dexterous courage of all men was so forward to defend their liues and liberty that truely in my opinion wee seemed thrise as many as we were All things below and aboue being cunningly perfected and euery one ranked in order with his Harquebuse and Pike to stand on the Centenall of his owne defence wee recommended our selues into the hands of the Almighty and in the meane while attended their fiery salutations In a furious spleene the first Hola of their courtesies was the progresse of a martiall conflict thundring forth a terrible noise of Gally-roaring péeces And wee in a sad reply sent out a backe-sounding eccho of fiery-flying shots which made an equiuox to the clouds rebounding backe-ward in our perturbed breasts the ambiguous sounds of feare and hope After a long and doubtfull fight both with great and small shot night parting vs
in visiting other do not vse to come empty handed neither will they suffer a stranger to depart without both gifts and conuoy Candy is a large and famous Citie situated on a plaine by the sea side hauing a goodly hauen for ships and a faire Arsenall wherein are 36 Gallies It is excéeding strong and daily guarded with 2000 Souldiers and the Walles in compasse are about three leagues Candy is distant from Venice 1300 miles from Constantinople 700. from Famagosta in Cyprus 600. from Alexandria in Egypt 500. and from the Citie of Ierusalem 900 miles The Candeots through all the Iland make muster euery eighth day before the Sergeant-Maiors or Officers of the Generall and are well prouided with all sorts of Armour yea and the most valourous people that hight the name of Greekes It was told me by the Rector of Candy that they may raise in Armes of the inhabitants not reckoning the Garrisons aboue sixtie thousand men all able for warres with 54 Gallies and 24 Galleots for the sea In all my trauels through this Realme I neuer could sée a Greek come forth of his house vnarmed and after such a martiall manner that one his head he weareth a bare stéele Cap a Bow in his hand a long sword by his side a broad ponyard ouerthwart his belly and a round target hanging at his girdle They are not costly in apparrell for they were but linnen cloathes and vse no shooes but Bootes of white leather by nature they are crafty and subtill as Paul mentioneth Titus 1.12 Their haruest is our Spring for they manure the ground and sow the séed in October which is reaped in March and Aprill Being frustrate of my intention at Candy I was forced to returne to Canea where I staied 25 dayes before I could get passage for I purposed to view Constantinople I trauelled on foot in this I le more then 400 miles and vpon the 50 day after my first comming to Carabusa I embarked in a fisher-boat that belonged to Milo being a hundred miles distant which had beene violently driuen thither with stormy weather Milo was called by Aristotle Melada and by others Mimalida Melos And lastly Milo because of the fine Mill-stones that are got there which are transported to Constantinople Greece and Natolia This I le is one of the Iles Cyclades or Sporades but more commonly Archipelago or the Arch-ilands and standeth in the beginning of the Aegean sea The inhabitants are Greekes but slaues to the Turke and so are all the 53 Iles of the Cyclades saue onely Tino which holdeth of the Venetians From Milo I came to Zephano an Iland of circuit about twenty miles The inhabitants are poore yet kind people There are an infinite number of Partridges within this I le of a reddish colour and bigger then ours in Britaine they are wilde and onely kild by small shot but I haue seene in other Ilands flockes of them feeding in the fields and vsually kept by children some others I haue seene in the stréetes of villages without any kéeper euen as Hennes do with vs. I saw fountains here that naturally yéeld fine oyle which is the greatest aduantage the Ilanders haue From thence I embarked and arriued at Angusa in Parir This I le is forty miles long and six miles broad being plentifull enough in all necessary things for the vse of of man In Angusa I stayed 16 dayes storme-sted with Northerly windes and in all that time I neuer came in bed for my lodging was in a little Church without the village on hard stones where I also had a fire and dressed my meate The Greekes visited me oftentimes and intreated me aboue all things I should not enter within the bounds of their Sanctuary because I was not of their Religion These miserable Ilanders are a kinde of silly poore people which in their behauiour shewed the necessity they had to liue rather then any pleasure in their liuing From thence I arriued in the I le of Mecano where I but onely dined so set forward to Zea. Zea was so called of Zeo the son of Phebo and of some Tetrapoli because of the foure Citties that were there of old Symonides the Poet and Eristato the excellent Physition were borne in it The next I le of any note wee touched at was Tino This Iland is vnder the Signorie of Venice and was sometimes beautified with the Temple of Neptune By Aristotle it was Idrusa of Demosthenes and Eschines Erusea It hath an impregnable Castle builded on the top of a high Rocke so that the Turkes by no meanes can conquer it From this I le I came to Palmosa sometime Pathmos which is a Mountanous and barren Iland It was heere that Saint Iohn wrote the Reuelation after hée was banished by Domitianus the Emperour Thence I embarked to Nicaria and sailed by the I le Scyro which of old was the Signory of Licomedes and in the habit of a woman was Achilles brought vp heere who in that time begot Pyrhus vpon Deidamia the daughter of Licomedes and where the crafty Vlysses did discouer this fatall Prince to Troy As we fetched vp the sight of Nicaria wee espied two Turkish Galleots who gaue vs the Chace and pursued vs straight vnto a bay betwixt two Mountaines where we left the loaded Boat and fled to the Rockes But in our flying the Maister was taken and other two old men whom they made captiues and slaues and also seized vpon the Boat and all their goods The number that escaped were nine persons This Ile Nicaria was anciently called Doliche and Ithiosa and is somewhat barren hauing no Sea-port at all It was heere the Poets feigned that Icarus the son of Dedalus fell when as hee took flight from Creta with his borrowed wings of whom it hath the name Expecting certaine daies heere in a vilage called Lephantos for passage to Sio at last I found a Brigandino bound thither that was come from the fruitfull I le of Stalimene of old Lemnos wherein I embarked and sailed by the I le Samos which is opposite to Caria in Asia Minor It is of circuit one hundred and sixty and of length forty miles It was of old named Dri●sa and Melanphilo in which was Phythagoras the Phylospher and Lycaon the excellent Musitien borne As wee left the I le Veneco on our left hand and entred in the Gulfe betweene Sio and Eolida there fell downe a deadly storme at the Greco è Leuante which split our Mast carrying Sailes and all ouer-board Whereupon euery man looked as it were with the stampe of death in his pale visage The Tempest continuing our Boat not being able to keepe the Seas we were constrained to seeke into a creeke betwixt two Rockes for safety of our liues where when wee entred there was no likely-hood of reliefe for wee had a shelfie shore and giuing ground to the Ankors they came both home The sorrowfull Maister seeing nothing but shipwracke
were erected in a commemoration of their admirable fidelitie in loue But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly yea or rather the strength of Constantinople betwéene which no ship may enter without knowledge of the Captaines And at their returne they must stay thrée dayes before they are permitted to goe through Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople is about fortie leagues Here I left the two Frenchmen with a Greeke Barbour and imbarked for Constantinople in a Turkish Frigato The first place of any note I saw within these narrow Seas was the auncient Citty of Gallipolis the second seate of Thracia which was first builded by Caius Caligula and sometimes hath béene inhabited by the Gaules It was the first Towne in Europe that the Turkes conquered As we sailed betwéene Thracia and Bithinia a learned Grecian that was in my company shewed mee Colchis whence Iason with the assistance of the Argonautes and the aid of Medeas skill did fetch the golden fléece This Sea Hellespont tooke the name of Helles and of the Countrey Pontus ioyning to the same Sea wherein are these thrée Countries Armenia Colchis and Cappadocia After wee had fetcht vp the famous Citie of Calcedon in Bithinia on our right hand I beheld on our left hand the prospect of that little world the great Citie of Constantinople which indéed yeeldeth such an outward splendor to the amazed beholder of goodly Churches stately Towers gallant Stéeples and other such things whereof now the world make so great account that the whole earth cannot equall it Beholding these delectable obiects wee entred in the Channell of Bosphorus which diuideth Perah from Constantinople And arriuing at Tapanau where all the munition of the great Turke lieth I bade farewell to my company and went to a lodging to refresh my selfe till morning A briefe Description of the renowned Citty of Constantinople together with the customes manners and religion of the Turkes their first beginning and the birth of MAHOMET and what opinion the Mahometanes haue of Heauen and Hell COnstantinople is the Metropolitan of Thracia so called of Constantine the Emperour who first enlarged the same It was called of old Bizantium but now by the Turkes Stambolda which signifieth in their language a large Citty It was also called Ethuse and by the Greekes Stymbolis This Citty according to ancient Authors was first sounded by the Lacedemonians who were conducted from Lacedemon by one Pausanias about the yeare of the world 3294 which after their consultation with Apollo where they should settle their abode and dwelling place they came to Bithinia and builded a Cittie which was called Calcedon But the commodity of fishing falling out contrary to their expectation in respect the fishes were afraid of the white bankes of the Citty the Captaine Pausanias left that place and builded Bizantium in Thracia which first was by him intituled Ligos By Pliny Iustine and Strabo it was surnamed Vrbs Illustrissima because it is repleat with all the blessings earth can giue to man yea and in the most fertile soile of Europe Zonaras reporteth that the Athenians in an ambitious and insatiable desire of Soueraigntie wonno it from the Lacedemonians they thus being vanquished suborned Seuerus the Romane Emperour to besiege the same but the Cittie Bizantium being strongly fortified with walles the Romans could not take it in vntill extreame famine constrained them to yeeld after thrée yeares siege And Seuerus to satisfie his cruelty put all to the sword that were within and razed the walles giuing it in possession to the neighbouring Perinthians This Citie thus remained in calamitie till Constantine resigning the Citie of Rome and a great part of Italy to the Popish inheritance of the Roman Bishops reedified the same and translated his Imperiall seate in the East and reduced all the Empire of Greece to an vnite tranquility with immortall reputation which the Parthians and Persians had so miserably disquieted But these disorders at length reformed by the seuere administration of iustice for the which and other worthy respects the said Constantine sonne of S. Helen and Emperour of Rome which after the Popes vsurped was surnamed the Great He first in his plantation called this Citie New Rome but when hee beheld the flourishing and multiplying of all things in it and because of the commodious situation thereof he called it Constantinopolis after his owne name This Emperour liued there many prosperous yeares in a most happy estate Likewise many of his successors did vntill such time that Mahomet the second of that name and Emherour of the Turkes liuing in a discontented humor to behold the great and glorious dominions of Christians especially this famous Citie that so flourished in his eyes by moment all circumstances collected his cruell intentions to the full height of ambition whereby hee might abolish the very name of Christianity and also puft vp with a presumptuous desire to enlarge his Empire went with a maruellous power both by Sea and Land vnto this magnificent mansion The issue wherof was such that after diuers batteries and assaults the irreligious Infidels broke downe the walles and entred the Citle where they made a wonderfull massacre of poore afflicted Christians without sparing any of the Romane kinde either male or female In the mercilesse fury of these infernall Impes the Emperour Constantine was killed whose head being cut off was carried vpon the poynt of a Launce through all the Citie and Campe of the Turkes to the great disgrace and ignominy of Christianitie His Empresse Daughters and other Ladies were put to death after a strange forme of new deuised torments By this ouerthrow of Constantinople this Mahomet tooke twelue kingdomes and two hundred Cities from the Christians which is a lamentable losse of such an illustrious Empire Thus was that Imperiall Citie lost in the yeare 1453. May 29. when it had remained vnder the gouernment of Christians 1198 yeares It is now the chiefe abode of the great Turke Sultan Acomet the 15 Grand Can of the line of Ottoman liuing at this day who is about 23 yeares of age a man more giuen to venery then martiality which giueth presently a greater aduantage to the Persians in their instant warres The forme or situation of this Citie is like vnto a triangle the South part whereof and the East part are inuironed with Hellespontus and Bosphorus Thraicus and the North part adioyning to the firme land It is in compasse about the Walles estéemed to be 18 miles in one of these triangled points standeth the Palace of the great Turke called Seralia and the Forrest wherein he hunteth which is two miles in length The speciall obiect of antiquity I saw within this Citie was the incomparable Church of S. Sophia whose ornaments and hallowed vessels were innumerable in the time of Iustinian the Emperour who first builded it but now conuerted to a Mosque and consecrate to Mahomet after a Diabolicall manner I saw also the famous
time had altered their hard fortunes by a new change but were they preuented and euery one cut off by the bloudy hands of the Turkes This massacre was committed in the yeare 1607. Such alwayes are the torturing flames of Fortunes smiles that he who most affecteth her she most and altogether deceiueth But they who trust in the Lord shall be as stable as Mount Sion which cannot be remoued and questionlesse one day God in his all-eternall mercy will relieue their miseries and in his iust iudgements recompence these bloudy oppressors with the heauy vengeance of his all-séeing iustice In my returne from Nicosia to Famagosta with my Trouchman we encountred by the way with foure Turkes who néedes would haue my horse to ride vpon which my Interpreter refused But they in a reuenge pulled me by the héeles from the horse backe beating me most pittifully and left me almost for dead In this meane while my companion fled and escaped the sceleratenesse of their hands and if it had not beene for some compassionable Greekes who by accident came by and relieued me I had doubtlesse immediatly perished From Famagosta I imbarked in a Germe and arriued at Tripoly Tripoly is a Citie in Siria standing a mile from the marine side néere to the foote of Mount Libanus since it hath béene first founded it hath thrée times béene situated and remoued in thrée sundry places First it was ouerwhelmed with water Secondly it was sacked with Cursares and Pirates Thirdly it is now like to be ouerthrowne with new made mountaines of sand There is no Hauen by many miles neere vnto it but a dangerous rode where often when Northerly winds blow ships are cast away The great trafficke which now is at this place was formerly at Scanderona a little more Eastward but by reason of the infectious aire that corrupteth the bloud of strangers procéeding of two high mountaines who are supposed to bee part of mount Caucasus which with-hold the prospect of the Sunne from the In-dwellers more then thrée houres in the morning So that in my knowledge I haue knowne dye in one ship and a moneths time twenty Mariners for this cause the Christian Shippes were glad to haue their commodities brought to Tripoly which is a more wholsome and conuenient place The daily interrogation I had here for a Carauans departure to Aleppo was not to me a little fastidious being mindfull to visite Babylon In this my expectation I tooke purpose with thrée Venetian Marchants to go sée the Cedars of Libanon which was but a dayes iourney thither As we ascended vpon the mountaine our ignorant guide mistaking the way brought vs in a labyrinth of dangers insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of rocks two of our Asses fell ouer a banke and brake their neckes And if it had not beene for a Christian Amaronite who accidentally encountred with vs in our wilsum wandring we had béen miserably lost both in regard of rockes and heapes of snow we passed and also of great torrents which fell downe with force from the steepy toppes wherein one of these Marchants was twice almost drowned When we arriued to the place where the Cedars grew we saw but 24 of all growing after the manner of Oke trées but a great deale taller straighter and greater and the branches grow so straight out as though they were kept by Art Although that in the dayes of Salomon this mountaine was ouer-clad with forrests of Cedars yet now there are but onely these and 9 miles Westward thence 17 more The nature of that tree is alwaies gréene yéelding an odoriferous smell and an excellent kind of fruit like vnto Apples but of a swéeter taste more wholesome in digestion The roots of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by shepheards who haue made fires thereat and holes wherein they sléepe yet neuerthelesse they flourish gréene aboue in the toppes and branches The length of this mountaine is about fortie miles reaching from the West to the East and continually Summer and Winter reserueth snow on the toppes It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature as herbage tillage pastorage fructiferous trées fine fountaines good Cornes and absolutely the best wine that is bred on the earth The Signior thereof is a free-holder by birth a Turk and will not acknowledge any superior but the most part of the inhabited Uillages are Christians called Amaronites or Nostranes quasi Nazaritans and are gouerned by their owne Patriarke There are none at this day do speake the Syriack tongue saue onely these people of Mount Libanus in that Language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written The kind Amaronite whom we met and tooke with vs for our best guide in descending from the Cedars shewed vs many caues and holes in rockes where Coliers religious Sirens and Amaronites abide Amongst these austere Cottages I saw a faire Toombe all of one stone being seuentéene foote of length which as he said was the sepulchre of the valiant Ioshua who conducted the people of Israel in the land of promise The Mahometans esteeme this to bee a holy place and many resort to it in pilgrimage to offer vp their Satanicall prayers to Mahomet I saw vpon this Mountaine a sort of fruit called Amazza franchi that is the death of Christians because when Italians or others of Europe eate any quantity thereof they presently fall into the bloudy fluxes or else ingender some other pestilentious feuer whereof they die The Patriarke did most kindly entertaine vs at his house so did also all the Amaronites of the other Uillages who met vs in our way before we came to their Townes and brought presents with them of Bread Wine Figges Oliues Sallats Capons Egges and such like as they could on a suddaine prouide About the Uillage of Eden is the most fruitfull part of all Libanus abounding in all sorts of delitious fruites True it is the variety of these things maketh the silly people thinke the Garden of Eden was there By which allegeance they approue the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion with these arguments that Mount Libanus is sequestrate from the circum-iacent Regions and is inuincible for the height and strengths they haue in rockes that Eden was still re-edified by the fugitiue inhabitants when their enemies had ransacked it Also they affirme before the deluge it was so nominate and after the floud it was repaired againe by Iaphet the sonne of Noah who builded Ioppa or Iaphta in Palestina Loe these are the reasons they show strangers for such like informations There are with this one other two supposed places of this earthly Paradise the one is by the Turkes and some ignorant Georgians holden to bee at Damascus for the beauty of faire fields gardens and excellent fruites there especially for the trée called Mouslee which they beléeue hath growne there since the beginning of the world Indéed it is a rare and singular Tree for I saw it at Damascus
way as we returned our Dragoman shewed vs on the banke of Nylus where a Crocodile was killed by the ingenious policie of a Venetian Marchant being licentiated by the Soldan The match whereof for bignesse and length was neuer seene in that riuer whose body was 22 foote and in compasse of the shoulders 8 foot This cruell beast had deuoured aboue 46 men and women besides other creatures and in his belly were found more then 60 rings of gold and siluer which the miserable bodies had worne in their noses through their cheeks and vnder lips for such is the custome of the people to weare their iewels And if the baser sort cannot attaine to such like then they counterfeit their betters with rings of brasse and lead wearing also on their armes and ankles broade bands of Iron continually The garden wherein the onely and true Balsamo groweth is inclosed with a high wall and daily guarded by Turkes who hardly will suffer any Christian to enter within much lesse the Iewes for not long agoe they were the cause that almost this Balme was brought to confusion The tree it selfe is but of three foot height which keepeth euermore the coloor greene hauing a broad thrée poynted leafe and twice in the yeare it being incised yeeldeth a red water which is the naturall Balsamo Not farre hence there is a place caled Mommeis lying in a sandy desart where are innumerable Caues cut forth of a rock wherunto the corps of the most men in Cayro are carried and interred which dead bodies remaine alwayes vnputrified neither yeeld they any stinking smell Grand Cayro is an admirable great Citie and larger of bounds then Constantinople but not so populous neither so wel builded It was of old caled Memphis was the furthest place that Vlysses in his trauels visited so well memorized by Homer yet a voyage now of no such estimation as that Princely Poet accounted it for his trauels are not comparable to some of these dayes wherein we liue It is situate in a pleasant plaine and in the heart of Aegypt being distant from Nylus about an English mile It was called Cayro Babylonia for there are two Babylons one in Assyria which by the Turks is called Bagdat and the other is this which ioyneth with Cayro nouo The circuit of new Cayre is about 22 miles not speaking of Cayre de Babylon Medin Boulak the great Towne of Caraffar being as Sub-vrbs of many smals maketh vp a little world the length whereof in all is thought to be 28 miles of bredth 14. The principal gates are these Babeh Mamstek which is toward the Wildernesse of the red sea Bebzavillah toward Nylus and Babell Eutuch toward the fields The stréetes are narrow being all of them almost couered and the foundation of their buildings is raised vpon two Stages height to kéepe the people from the parching heate The Bazar or exchange beginneth at the gate of Mamstek and endeth at a place called Babesh At the corners of chiefe places there are horses to be hired that for a small matter a man may ride where so he will to view this spacious spred Citie and change as many horses as he listeth hauing the maisters which owe them to conuoy them There is a great commerce here with all Nations vnder the heauens For by their concurring thither it is wonderfully peopled with infinite numbers Such a multitude and the extreme heate is the cause why the pest is euermore in it insomuch that at some certaine times 10000 persons haue dyed thereof in one day In this Towne you shall euer finde all these sorts of Christians Italians French Greekes Almaines Georgians Aethiopians Iacobines Armenians Syrians Nestorians Amaronites Nicolaitans Abessenes Nubians Slauonians Gofties Ragusans and some captiue Hungarians the number of which is euer thought to bee beyond an hundred thousand people besides all other sorts of Infidels as Turkes blacke and white Moores Musilmans Persians Tartars Indians Iewes Arabians Barbarres and Sarazens From the Castle wherein the Soldan habitateth which is builded on a pretty hill you haue the prospect of the whole Citie the Gardens and Uillages bordering on Nylus and of the most part of the plaine and fertile places of Egypt Aegypt bordereth with Aethiopia and the Desarts of Libia on the South on the North with the sea Medirerrene the chiefest ports whereof are Alexandria and Damietta Toward the Occident with the great lake of Bouchiarah and a dangerous Wildernesse confining therewith so full of wilde and venemous beasts which maketh the West part vnaccessable On the East with a part of the red Sea and desarts of Arabia through which the people of Israel passed In all the land of Egypt which is a great kingdome there is no Well or Fountaine saue onely the riuer Nylus neither doe the inhabitants know what raine is because they neuer sée any This floud irriguateth all the low Plaines of the land once in the yeare which inundation beginneth vsually in Iuly and continueth to the end of August which furnisheth with water all the Inhabiters There is a dry Pond called Machash in the midst whereof standeth a Pillar of eightéene brasses height being equall with the profundity of the ditch whereby they know his increasing and if in the yeare following they shall haue plenty or scarsity of things For when the water beginneth to flow aboue the ordinary course it falleth downe incontinently in this place where it ariseth euery day vpon the pillar sometimes a spanne a foote or two foote At the time of his inunding there are certaine people appointed to watch the limites of his growth For when the water wareth to fiftéene brasses it is a signe that the next yeare shall bee fertile If if amounteth but to twelue that yeare shall be indifferent and it surpasse not nine brasses it presageth a great dearth and famine and if it shall happen to flow to the top all the countrey of Egypt is in danger to bee destroyed From Nylus are many ditches drawne along to the scattered villages in the plaines the water whereof entring in these narrow channels the people haue cisternes made of purpose wherein they receiue it and conserue the same till the next inundation At which time also they make great feastings and rare solemnities dauncing eating drinking singing t●uking of drummes sounding of trumpets and other oftentations of ioy There are infinite venemous creatures bred in this riuer as Crococodiles Scorpions vgly mis-shapen wormes and other monstrous things which annoy oft the inhabitants and also those who tra●●ck on the water This famous floud beginneth vnder the Equinoctiall line in Aethiopia whence it bringeth the full growth downe into Egypt and in a place of the Aethiopian Alpes called Catadupa the fall and roaring of this Nyle maketh the people deafe who dwell néere thereunto The common opinion is that Prester Iehan may impede the course of Nyle to runne through Egypt which bréedeth the cause wherefore the great Turke payeth
tooke the Helme in hand directing his course to rush vpon the face of a low Rocke whereupon the Sea most fearefully broke As wée touched the Marriners contending who should first leape out some fell ouer-boord and those that got Land were pulled backe by the reciprocating waues Neither in all this time durst I once moue for they had formerly sworne if I pressed to escape before the rest were first forth they would throw me head-long into the Sea So being two waies in danger of death I patiently offered vp my prayers to God At our first incounter with the Rockes our fore-deckes and boates Gallery being broke and a great leake made the recoiling waues brought vs backe from the Shelfes a great way which the poore Maister perceiuing and that there were seuen men drowned and eleuen persons aliue cryed with a lowd voyce Bee of good cheere take vp Oares and row hastily it may bee before the Barke sinke wee attaine to yonder Caue Euery man working for his owne deliuerance as it pleased God we got the same with good fortune for no sooner were wee dis-barked but the Boat immediate sunke There was nothing saued but my Coffino which I kept alwaies in my Armes for the which of my things the Greekes were in admiration In this Caue which was thirty paces long within the Mountaine wee abode three daies without both meate and drink vpon the fourth day at Morne the Tempest ceasing there came Fisher-boates to relieue vs who found the ten Greekes almost famished for lacke of food but I in that hunger-staruing feare fed vpon the expectation of my doubtfull reliefe True it is a miserable thing it is for a man to grow an example to others in matters of affliction yet it is necessary that some men should be so For it pleased God hauing showne a sensible disposition of fauor vpon mee in humbling mee to the very pit of extremities taught me also by such an expected deliuerance both to put my confidence in his eternall goodnesse and to know the frailty of my owne selfe and my ambition which draue me often to such disasters The dead men being found on shore wee buried them and I learned at that instant time there were seuentéene boats cast away on the Coast of this Iland and neuer a man saued in this place the Greekes set vp a stone Crosse in the memoriall of such a wofull mischance and mourned heauily fasting and praying I reioycing and thanking God for my safety leauing them sorrowing for their friends and good tooke iourney through the Iland to Sio for so is the Citie called In my way I past by an old Castle standing on a little Hill named Gasbos or Helias where as I was informed by two Greekes in my company the Sepulchre of Homer was yet extant For this is one of the seuen Iles that contended for his birth And I willing to see it entreated them to accompany me thither where we came wee descended by sixteene degrées into a darke Cell and passing that wee entred in another foure-squared roome in which I saw an ancient Toomb whereon were ingrauen Greeke letters which wee could not vnderstand for their antiquity but whether it was his Toombe or not I do not know but this they related This Ile was first called Etalie and Pythiosa next Cios Actes 20.15 And by Methrodorus Chio of Chione but at this day Sio Not long ago it was vnder the Genueses but now gouerned by Turkes It is of circuit an hundred miles and famous for the medicinable Masticke that groweth there on Trées I saw many pleasant Gardens in it which yéeld in great plenty Orenges Lemmons Apples Peares Prunes Figges Oliues Apricockes Dates Adams Apples excellent hearbes faire flowers sweete hony with store of Cypre and Mulbery-trees and exceeding good silk is made heere The women of the Citie Sio are the most beautifull Dames of all the Greekes in the world and greatly giuen to Uenery They are for the most part excéeding proud and sumptuous in apparell and commonly go euen Artificers wiues in gownes of Sattin and Taffety yea of Cloth of Siluer and Gold and are adorned with pretious stones and Gemmes and Iewels about their neckes and hands Their husbands are their Pandors and when they see any stranger arriue they will presently demand of him if hée would haue a Mistresse And so they make whores of their owne wiues and are contented for a little gaine to weare hornes such are the base mindes of ignominious Cuckolds After some certaine attendance I embarked in a Carmoesalo bound for Nigroponti which was forth of my way to Constantinople but because I would gladly haue seene Macedonia I followed that determination In our way wee sayled by Mytelene an Iland of old called Isa next Lesbos and lastly Mytelene of Milet the sonne of Phoebus Pythacus one of the seuen Sages of Greece the most valiant Antimenides and his brother Alceus the Poet Theophrastus the Peripatetike Phylosopher Arion the learned Harper and the shee Poet Sapho were borne in it The Iles Sporades are scattered in the Egean Sea like as the Iles Orcades are in the North Seas of Scotland but different in clymate and fertility for these South-easterne Iles in Summer are extreme hot producing generally Nigroponti excepted but a few Wines Fruits and Cornes scarce sufficient to sustaine the Ilanders But these North-westerne Ilands in Sommer are neither hot nor cold hauing most wholesome and temperate aire and doe yeeld aboundance of Corne euen more then to suffice the Inhabitants which is yeerely transported to the firme Land and sold They haue also good store of cattell and good cheape and the best fishing that the whole Ocean yeeldeth is vpon the coasts of Orknay and Zetland In all these separated parts of the earth which of themselues of old made vp a little Kingdome you shall alwaies find strong March Ale and surpassing fine Aqua Vitae with an infinite number of Conies which you may kill with Crosse-bow or Harquebuse euery morning forth of your Chamber window according to your pleasure in that pastime which I haue both practised my selfe and séene practised by others for they multiply so excéedingly that they dig euen vnder the foundations of dwelling houses Such is the will of God to bestow vpon seuerall places particular blessings whereby hee demonstrateth to man the plentifull store-house of his gracious prouidence so many manner of waies vpon earth distributed all glory bee to his incomprehensible goodnesse therefore I haue seldome séene in all my trauels more toward and tractable people I meane their Gentlemen and better housekéepers then bee these Orkadians and Zetlanders whereof in the prime of my adolescency by two voyages amongst these Northerne Iles I had the full proofe and experience Nigroponti was formerly called Euboea next Albantes and now is surnamed the Quéene of Archipelago It is separated from the firme Land of Thessaly with a narrow channell ouer the which in
one part there is a bridge that passeth betwéene the I le and the maine continent and vnder it runneth a marueilous swift current or tyde Within halfe a mile of the bridge I saw a Marble columne standing on the top of a little rocke whence as the Ilanders told mee Aristotle leaped in and drowned himselfe after that he could not conceiue the reason why this Channell so ebbed and flowed This I le bringeth forth in aboundance all things requisite for humane life and decored with many goodly Uillages From thence I arriued at a Towne in Macedonia called Salonica but of old Thessalonica where I staied fiue daies and was much made of by the Inhabitants It is a Citie full of rich commodities and is the principall place of Thessaly which is a place of Macedon together with Achaia and Myrmedon which are the other two Prouinces of the same There is an Uniuersity of the Iewes heere who professe onely the Hebrew tongue About this Citie is the most fertile Country in all Greece Greece of all the Kingdomes in Europe hath beene most famous and highly renowmed for many notable respects It was first called Helles next Grecia of Grecus who was once King thereof The Greekes of all other Gentiles were the first conuerted Christians and are wonderfull deuout in their professed Religion The Priests weare the haire of their heads hanging ouer their shoulders Those that bee the most sincere Religious men abstaine alwaies from eating of flesh contenting themselues with water herbes and bread They differ much in ceremonies and Principles of Religion from the Papists and the Computation of their Kalender is as ours They haue foure Patriarkes who gouerne the affaires of their Church and also any ciuill dissentions which happen amongst them viz. one in Constantinople another in Antiochia the third in Alexandria and the fourth in Ierusalem It is not néedfull for mee to penetrate further in the condition of their estate because it is no part of my intent in this Treatise In Salonica I found a Germe bound for Tenedos in the which I embarked As we sayled along the Thessalonian shoare I saw the two topped Hill Pernassus where it was said the nine Muses haunted but as for the Fountaine Helicon I leaue that to be searched and seene by the imagination of Poets For if it had béene obiected to my sight like an insatiable drunkard I should haue drunke vp the streames of Poesie to haue enlarged my poore Poeticall veine The Mountaine it selfe is somewhat steepe and sterile especially the two toppes the one whereof is dry and sandy signifying that Poets are alwaies poore and needy The other toppe is barren and rocky resembling the ingratitude of wretched and niggardly Patrones the vale betweene the toppes is pleasant and profitable denoting the fruitfull and delightfull soyle which painefull Poets the Muses Plow-men so industriously manure A little more Eastward as wee fetcht vp the Coast of Achaia the Maister of the Uessell shewed mee a ruinous Uillage and Castle where hee said the admired Citie of Thebes had beene Upon the third day from Salonica wee arriued in the roade of Tenedos which is an Iland in the Sea Pontus or Propontis It hath a Citie called Tenedos built by Tenes which is a gallant place hauing a Castle and a faire Hauen for all sorts of Uessels It produceth good store of Wines and the best supposed to bee in all the South-east parts of Europe The Iland is not big but exceeding fertile lying thrée miles from the place where Troy stood as Virgill reported Aenid 2. Est in conspectu Tenedos notissima fama insula In Tenedos I met by accident two French Merchants of Marseills intending for Constantinople who had lost their ship at Sio when they were busie at venereall tilting with their new elected Mistresses and for a second remedy were glad to come thither in a Turkish Carmoesalo The like of this I haue séene fall out with Sea-faring men Merchants and Passengers who buy sometimes their too much folly with too déere a repentance They and I resoluing to view Troy did hire a Ianisarie to bee our conductor and protector and a Greeke to be our Interpreter Where when we landed wee saw heere and there many relicts of old walles as wee trauelled through these famous bounds And as we were aduanced toward the East part of Troy our Greek brought vs to many Toombes which were mighty ruinous and pointed vs particularly to the Toombes of Hector Aiax Achilles Troylus and many other valiant Champions with the Toombs also of Hecuba Cresseid and other Troian Dames Well I wot I saw infinite old Sepulchres but for their particular names and nomination of them I suspend neither could I beléeue my Interpreter sith it is more then thrée thousand and odde yeares ago that Troy was destroyed He shewed vs also the ruines of King Priams palace and where Anchises the father of Aeneas dwelt At the North-east corner of Troy which is in sight of the Castles of Hellesponte there is a gate yet standing and a péece of a reasonable high wall vpon which I found thrée péeces of rusted money which afterward I gaue to the two yonger brethren of the Duke of Florence Where the pride of Phrygia stood it is a most delectable plaine abounding now in cornes fruites and wines and may be called the garden of Natolia yet not populous for there are but onely fiue scattered Uillages in all that bounds The length of Troy hath béene as may bee discerned by the fundamentall walles yet extant about twenty miles the ruines of which are come to that Poeticall Prouerbe Nunc seges est vbi Troia fuit Leauing the fields of noble Ilium wee crossed the Riuer of Simois and dyned at a Uillage named Extetash I remember discharging one couenant with the Ianisary who was not contented with the former condition the Frenchmen making obstacle to pay that which I had giuen the wrathfull Ianisary be laboured them both with a cudgel till the bloud sprung from their heads and compelled them to double his wages This is one true note to a Traueller whereof I had the full experience afterward that if hee can not make his owne part good hee must alwaies at the first motion content these rascals otherwise he wil be constrained doubtlesse with strokes to giue twice as much for they make no account of conscience nor ruled by the law of compassion neither regard they a Christian more then a dogge but whatsoeuer extortion or iniurie they vse against him he must be French-like contented bowing his head and making a counterfet shew of thankes and happy too oftentimes if so he escape Hence wee arriued at the Castles called of old Sestos and Abydos which are two Fortresses opposite to other the one in Europe the other in Asia being a mile distant They stand at the beginning of Hellesponte and were also cognominate the Castles of Hero and Leander which