the maine land hath beene both seene and searcht and they haue brought this supposed passage to this passe that it must be to the North of sixty sixe degrees of Latitude A cold Clyme pestered with Ice and other discommodities and where the Spaniards dispositions and their weake Speeke Ships can hardly long indure it And withall it is thus knowne that the entrance of Hudsons Straights is but 15. leagues broad in the middle not so much And betwixt Salisbury Iland and the maine that it is but 8. leagues Then proceeding to the Northwards towards the fore-mentioned Latitude it is but 15. leagues from mayne to mayne This in length is but about a hundred and forty leagues as may more plainely appeare by the Mappe Most infinitely pestered withall it is with the Ice vntill August and some yeeres not passable then yea I beleeue the straight is neuer cleere of Ice thorowly Now most probable it is that there is no passage And that for these reasons following First that there is a constant Tyde flood and ebbe setting into Hudsons Straights the flood still comming from the East-ward which as it proceedes correspondent to the distance it alters his time of full sea This also entering into Bayes and broken ground it becomes distracted and reuerses with halfe tydes Secondly here is no small fish as Cod c. and very few great ones which are rarely to be seene Nor are there any bones of Whales Sea-horses or other great fish to be found on the shoare nor any drift-wood Thirdly that we found the Ice in the Latitude of 65. 30. to be lying all ouer the sea in randes and I am most certaine that the shoalds and shoald-Bayes are the mother of it Had there now beene any Ocean beyond it it would haue beene broke all to pieces for so we found it comming thorow the Straight into the Sea to the Eastward Fourthly the Ice seekes his way to the Eastward and so driues out at Hudsons Straight which I haue often obserued being aland vpon the Iland of Resolution and driuing amongst the Ice in the Straight Now admit there were a passage yet is it knowne that it is partly narrow for a hundred and forty leagues and to be infinitely pestered with Ice withall as euery one haue found who haue gone that way Comparing therefore some obseruation taken at Bantam Gulolo and at Firando in Iapan and the distance betwixt Iapan and the Wester-part of Califurnia with the obseruations taken at Charleton Iland referring all to the Meridian of London and then the distance betwixt the Meridians of Cape Charles and the Wester-part of Califurnia will be found to be about 500. leagues in the Latitude of 66. 00. where yet the Meridians incline very much together To this may be added that neere about Cape Charles the variation is 29 degrees to the West which is a probable argument that there is much land to the Westward and that this straight must be very long and that you haue no time to passe it but in August and September when the nights are so long and the weather so cold that it will not bee indurable Adde to this That neither can any great Ships which are fit for carrying of Marchandize indure the Ice and other discommodities without extraordinary danger Moreouer a thousand leagues is sooner sayled to the Southward and about the Cape de Bona Speranza where the winds are constant and that with safety then a hundred in these seas where you must dayly runne the hazzard of losing Ship and liues Put hereunto that comfort for the sicke or refreshing for your men here is none to be had in these quarters Towards the latter end of August and in September the weather growes tempestuous and the winds incline to be Westerly that there will be but small hope of performing your voyage this way But let vs by way of imagination onely inlarge this Straight in this Latitude and free it of Ice yet what aduantage in speedy performance will be gotten by this passage if the winds be withall considered To Iapan China and the Northerne parts of Asia it may be the neerer cut but in Nauigation the farthest way about is well knowne in fewer dayes to be performed yea with lesser paines and more safety of Ship and goods Againe to the East Indies and other parts where we haue the greatest Commerce and imployment of shipping the other way is as neere What benefit of Trade might haue beene obtained in those Northerne parts of Asia I will not presume to speake of holding that there is a great difference betwixt those parts and the Northerne parts of America whereas I am sure that there is none in any place where I haue beene all this voyage The two and twentieth of October we arriued in the Rode of Bristoll hauing beene hindered and crost with much contrary tempestuous windes and weather The Ship being brought into Harbour and halde dry aground to looke to her it was there found that all her Cut-water and Sterne were torne and beaten away together with fourteene foote of her Keele much of her sheathing cut away her bowes broken and bruised and many timbers crackt within boord and vnder the Star-boord bulge a sharpe Rocke had cut thorow the sheathing the planke and an inch and a halfe into a timber that it met withall Many other defects there were besides so that it was miraculous how this vessell could bring vs home againe Being all here arriued we went all to Church and gaue God thankes for his preseruation of vs amidst so many dangers I very well know that what I haue here hastily written will neuer discourage any noble spirit that is minded to bring this so long tryed Action to absolute effect And it is likely withall that there be some who haue a better vnderstanding and a surer way of prosecuting of it then my selfe haue To whose designes I wish a happy successe And if they doe but make a reuiew of what hath beene done and giue more certaine Coelestiall obseruations Hydrographicall descriptions or exacter practice in Nauigation it will be a most commendable labour For although I haue spent some yeeres of my ripest age in procuring vaine intelligence from forraine Nations and haue trauailed vnto diuers Honourable and Learned personages of this kingdome for their instructions haue bought vp whateuer I could find in print or manuscript and what plot or paper soeuer conducing to this businesse that possibly I could procure and haue serued voluntary besides and spent some time in rendring a relation since my comming home and expended withall of my owne monies in my foresaid indeauours and in furnishing of extraordinary necessaries aboue two hundred pounds in ready money yet I repent not my selfe but take a great deale of comfort and ioy in that I am able to giue an account in some reasonable way of those parts of the world which heretofore I was not so well satisfied in FINIS THE COPIE
being so sorely weakened by this blow which had hurt eight of our men It pleased God that the Anker held againe and shee rid it out all night By midnight the Chirurgion had taken off the Gunners legge at the gartering place and drest the others that were hurt and bruised after which we comforted each other as well as we could The 22. wee weyed and stood a little off into deeper water expecting a better winde Which in the afternoone fauoured vs. Wee stood in againe for the shoare and alongst it wee proceeded It is very shoald about foure leagues off and full of breaches The 23. at noone we were in latitude 56. 28. In the euening the winde came contrary and we were faine to turne to and againe All this moneth the winde hath beene very variable and continued not long vpon one point yet it happened so that we can get but little forward The 26. there sprung vp a fine gale at West but very thicke weather neuerthelesse wee stood into 7. and 6. fad the water very thicke and puddlelish At noone it cleered and we could see that we were imbayed in a little Bay the land being almost round about vs. We stood out of it and so alongst it in sight till the 27. in the morning when we came to higher land then any we had yet seene since we came from Nottingham Iland We stood into it and came to an Anker in 5. faddome I sent off the Boate well man'd and arm'd with order in writing what they were to doe and a charge to returne againe before Sunne-set The euening came and no newes of our Boate we shot and made false fires but had no answer which did much perplex vs doubting that there had some distaster befalne her through carelesnesse and in her we should lose all Wee aboord at present were not able to wey our Anker nor sayle the Ship At last we saw a fire vpon the shoare which made vs the more doubtfull because they did not answer our shot nor false fires with the like Wee thought withall that it had beene the Saluages who did now triumph in their conquest At length they came all safe and well and excused themselues in that vpon their comming ashoare it did ebbe so suddenly that a banke of sand was so presently dry without them as they could not come away till that was couered againe and with that they pacified mee They reported that there was great store of drift wood on the shoare and a good quantitie growing on the land That they saw the tracks of Deere and Beares good store of Fowle of which they had killed some but no signe of people That they past ouer two little riuers and came to a third which they could not passe That it did flow very neere three faddomes sometimes as appeared by the shoare That it was low water at foure a clocke that the flood came from the North-west and that it flowed halfe tyde which both they and we had perceiued by the Ship At low water we had but three faddome where we did ride The winde began to blow hard at East whereupon we weyed and stood to the Northward till midnight Then in againe and in the morning wee saw the land and then it began to blow hard and as we stood off it increased to a very storme so that at length wee could not maintaine a payre of courses but tryed vnder our Maine course all day and all night sometime turning her head to the Landward sometime to the Offing The 29. in the morning we made account we had drouen backe againe some 16. or 18. leagues and in the morning as it cleered wee saw a Ship to Leeward of vs some three or foure leagues so wee made sayle and bore vp with her Shee was then at an Anker in 13. fadd It was his Maiesties Ship and Captaine Foxe commanded in her I saluted him according to the manner of the Sea and receiued the like of him So I stood in to see the land and thought to tacke about and keepe weather of him and to send my Boat aboord of him but the winde shifted so that for that time I could not In the euening I came to weather of him and sent my Boat aboord of him who presently weighed and stood off with mee till midnight and then we stood in againe In the morning Captaine Foxe and his friends came aboord of mee where I entertained them in the best manner I could and with such fresh meat as I had gotten from the shoare I told him how I had named the land The South Principality of Wales I shewed him how farre I had beene to the Eastward where I had landed and in briefe I made knowne to him all the dangers of this Coast as farre as I had beene He told mee how himselfe had beene in Port Nelson and had made but a Cursory discouery hitherto and that he had not beene aland nor had not many times seene the land In the euening after I had giuen his men some necessaries with Tobacco and other things which they wanted hee departed aboord his Ship and the next morning stood away South South-west since which time I neuer saw him The winde something fauouring mee I stood in for the shoare and so proceeded alongst it in sight This moneth of August ended with Snow and Haile the weather being as cold as at any time I haue felt in England We coasted alongst the shoare in 10. faddomes and when it cleered in sight of land At length the water shoalded to 6. and 5. fadd and as it cleered we saw it all breaches to Leeward so we hull'd off North North-east but still raised land By night we had much adoe to get safely out of this dangerous Bay At midnight the winde came vp at South and so we tooke in our sayles and let the Ship driue to the Northward into deeper water This day was the first time the Chirurgion told mee that there were diuers of the men tainted with sicknesse At noone we were in latitude 55. 12. The second we stood in againe for the shoare but as we came in to shoald water it began to blow the weather being winterly and foule threatning a storme wherein we were not deceiued for that in standing off wee had a violent one By midnight it broke vp and the third in the morning wee stood in againe and by a 11. wee saw it Here wee found the land to trend South South-east and South so that we knew we were at a Cape Land and named it Cape Henrietta Maria by her Maiesties name Who had before named our Ship At noone we were in latitude 55. 05. and that is the height of the Cape From Port Nelson to this Cape the land trends generally East South-east but makes with points and Bayes which in the particulars doth alter it a point two or three The distance is about one hundred and
not be gotten vp to staue them Then to quoile all our Cables vpon our lower tyre and to lay on our spare Ankers and any thing that was weighty to keepe it downe from rising By seuen a Clocke it blew a storme at North-West our bitter enemy The Ship was already bedded some two foote in the sand and whilst that was a flowing shee must beate This I before had in my consideration for I thought she was so farre driuen vp that we should neuer get her off Yet we had bin so ferrited by her last beating that I resolued to sinke her right downe rather then runne that hazzard By nine a cloke she began to rowle in her docke with a most extraordinary great Sea that was come which I found to be occasioned by the formentioned ouerfall And this was the fatall houre that put vs to our wits end Wherefore I went downe in hold with the Carpenter and tooke his auger and board a hole in the Ship and let in the water Thus with all speed we began to cut out other places to boare thorow but euery place was full of nailes By tenne notwithstanding the lower tyre was couered with water for all which she began so to beate in her docke more and more that we could not worke nor stand to doe any thing in her Nor would she sinke so fast as we would haue her but continued beating double blowes first abaft and then before that it was wonderfull how she could indure a quarter of an houre with it By twelue a clocke her lower Tyre rose and that did so counter-beate on the inside that it beat the bulke heads of the Bread-roome powder-roome and fore piece all to pieces and when it came betwixt deckes the chests fled wildly about and the water did flash and flie wonderfully so that now we expected euery minute when the Ship would open and breake to pieces At one a clocke shee beat off her Rudder and that was gone we knew not which way Thus shee continued beating till three a clocke and then the Sea came vp on the vpper decke and soone after shee began to settle In her wee were faine to sinke the most part of our bedding and clothes and the Chirurgions Chest with the rest Our men that were ashoare stood looking vpon vs almost dead with cold and sorrowes to see our misery and their owne We lookt vpon them againe and both vpon each other with woefull hearts Darke night drew on and I bade the Boate to be haled vp and commanded my louing companions to goe all into her who in some refusing complements expressed their faithfull affections to mee as loth to part from me I told them that my meaning was to goe ashoare with them And thus lastly I forsooke the Ship We were seuenteene poore soules now in the Boate and we now imagined that we were leapt out of the Frying pan into the fire The ebbe was made and the water extraordinary thicke congealed with snow so that we thought assuredly it would carry vs away into the Sea We thereupon doublemand foure oares appointing foure more to sit ready with oares and so with the helpe of God we got to the shoare haling vp the Boate after vs. One thing was most strange in this thicke water namely That there went a great swelling Sea Being arriued vpon the land we greeted our fellowes the best we could at which time they could not know vs nor we them by our habits nor voyces so frozen all ouer wee were faces haire and apparell And here I meane to take breath awhile after all this long and vnpleasant Relation of our miserable endeauours Crauing leaue first of all to speake a word or two in generall The winds since we came hither haue beene very variable and vnconstant and till within this fortnight the Southerly winde was the coldest The reason I conceiue to be for that it did blow from the Maine land which was all couered with snow and for that the North winds came out of the great Bay which hitherto was open Adde to that we were now vnder a South Banke which did shelter vs so that we were not so sensible of it A North-west a North-west by North and a North-North-west winde if it blew a storme would raise the Tydes extraordinarily and in briefe from the West Northwest to the North North-east would raise the tydes in proportion as they did blow from the middle point The wind being on the opposite points if it blew it would flow very little at all The harder it blew the lesse water it would flow If it were little winde or calme it would flow indifferently The tydes doe high ordinarily without being forced about three foot but being forced with the forementioned winds vpward of ten foot I could perceiue no difference betwixt Neape and spring tydes It flowes halfe tyde that is the flood comes from the Northward and thither returnes againe two houres before it be high water and it is commonly so seene in most Bayes or Inlets The VVintering AFter we had haled vp the Boate we went alongst the breach side in the darke towards our house where we made a good fire and with it and bread and water wee thawde and comforted our selues beginning after that to reason one with another concerning our Ship I requir'd that euery one should speak his mind freely The Carpenter especially was of the opinion that she was founderd and would neuer be seruiceable againe He alledged that she had so beaten that it was not possible but that all her Ioints were loose and seames open and that by reason it flowed so little water and no Creeke nor Coue being neere wherein to bring her aground he could not deuise how he might come to mend it Moreouer her Rudder was lost and he had no Iron-worke to hang on another Some alledged that we had heaued her vp so high vpon the sands that they thought we should neuer haue her off againe and that they were assured she was already dockt three foote Others that she lay in the Tydes way and that the Ice might teare her to pieces off the ground besides which two of our Ankers we could not now get from vnder the Ice which when the Ice brake which would be of a great thickenesse by the Spring would breake our Ankers to pieces and then we should haue no Ankers to bring vs home withall supposed we got off the ship that she proued sound also I comforted them the best I could with such like words My Masters and faithfull Companions be not dismaide for any of these disasters but let vs put our whole trust in God It is he that giueth and he that taketh away he throwes downe with one hand and raiseth vp with another His will be done If it be our fortunes to end our dayes here we are as neere heauen as in England and we are much bound to God Almighty for giuing vs so large a time of repentance
indifferent forwardnesse but the Carpenter grew worse and worse The Ship as we then thought lay all full of solid Ice which was weight enough to open the seames of any new and sound vessell especially of one that had layne so long vpon the ground as she had done In briefe after many disputations and laying open of our miserable and hopelesse estates I resolued vpon this course that notwithstanding it was more labour and though we declined weaker still and weaker yet that with the first warme weather we would begin to cleere the Ship that so we might haue the time before vs to thinke of some other course This being ordered we lookt to those tooles we had to digge the Ice out of her we had but 2. Iron barres ashoare the rest were sunke in the Ship and one of them was broken too Well! we fell to fitting of those barres and of 4. broken shouels that we had with which we intended as after we did to digge the Ice out of her and to lay that Ice on a heape vpon the Lar-boord bowe and to sinke downe that Ice to the ground so fast that it should be a Barricadoe to vs when the Ice brake vp which we feared would teare vs all to pieces The 6. was the deepest snow we had all this yeere which fild vp all our pathes and wayes by which we were vsed to goe vnto the wood This snow was something moyster and greater then any we had had all this yeere for formerly it was as dry as dust and as small as sand and would driue like dust with the winde The weather continued with this extremitie vntill the 15. at which time our spring was harder frozen then it had beene all the yeere before I had often obserued the difference betwixt cleere weather and mistie Refractious weather in this manner From a little hill which was neere adioyning to our house in the cleerest weather when the Sunne shone with all the puritie of ayre that I could conceiue we could not see a little Iland which bare off vs South South-east some foure leagues off but if the weather were mistie as aforesaid then we should often see it from the lowest place This little Iland I had seene the last yeere when I was on Danby Iland The 13. I tooke the height of it instrumentally standing neere the Seas side which I found to be 34. minutes the Sunne being 28. degrees high This showes how great a Refraction here is Yet may this be noted by the way That I haue seene the land eleuated by reason of the refractious ayre and neuerthelesse the Sunne hath risen perfect round The sixteenth was the most comfortable Sun-shine day that came this yeere and I put some to cleere off the snow from the vpper decks of the Ship and to cleere and dry the great Cabbin by making fire in it Others I put to digge downe thorow the Ice to come by our Anker that was in shoald water which the 17. in the afternoone we got vp and carried aboord The eighteenth I put them to digge downe thorow the Ice neere the place where we thought our Rudder might be They digged downe and came to water but no hope of finding of it we had many doubts that it mought be sanded or that the Ice might haue carried it away already the last yeere or if we could not recouer it by digging before the Ice brake vp and droue there was little hope of it The nineteenth wee continued our myning worke aboord the Shippe and returned in the Euening to Supper ashoare This Day The Master and two others desired that they might lye aboord which I condiscended to for indeed they had laine very discommodiously all the winter and with sicke bed-fellowes as I my selfe had done euery one in that kinde taking their fortunes By lying aboord they auoyded the hearing of the miserable groanings and lamenting of the sicke men all night long enduring poore soules intolerable torments By the one and twentieth we had laboured so hard that we came to see a Caske and could likewise perceiue that there was some water in the Hold. This we knew could not be thawed water because it did still freeze night and day very hard aboord the Ship and one the land also By the three and twentieth in the Euening wee came to pierce the forementioned Caske and found it was full of very good Beere which did much reioyce vs all especially the sickemen notwithstanding that it did taste a little of bulgewater By this we at that time thought that the holes we had cut to sinke the Ship were frozen and that this water had stood in the Ship all the Winter The foure and twentieth we went betimes in the morning to worke but found that the water was risen aboue the Ice where we had left work about two foot for that the wind had blowne very hard at North the night before In the morning the wind came about South and blew hard and although we had little reason for it we yet expected a lower veere of the water I there vpon put them to worke on the outside of the Ship that we might come to the lower hole which we had cut in the Sterne-Shootes With much labour by night we digged downe thorow the Ice to it and found it vnfrozen as it had bin all the Winter and to our great comforts we found that on the inside the water was ebd euen with the hole and that on the outside it was ebd a foot lower Hereupon I made a shot-boord to be naild on it and to be made as tight as might be to try if the water came in any other way To the other two holes we had digged on the inside and found them frozen Now I did this betimes that if we found the Ship foundered we might resolue of some course to saue or prolong our liues by getting to the maine before the Ice were broken vp for as for our Boate it was too little and bulged besides that Our Carpenter was by this time past hope and therefore little hope had we of our Pinnasse But which was worst of all we had not foure men able to trauell through the Snow ouer the Ice and in this miserable estate were we at this present The 25. we satisfied our longing for the winde now comming about Northerly the water rose by the Ships side where we had digged downe a foot and more aboue the Hold and yet did not rise within boord This did so incourage vs that we fell very lustily to digging and to heaue out the Ice out of the ship I put the Cooke and some others to thaw the pumps who by continuall powring of hot water into them by the 27. in the morning they had cleered one of them which we say-ing found that it did deliuer water very sufficiently Thus we fell to pumping and hauing cleered two foot water we then left
and entertained him with such fare as we had taken in this new discouered land and made him relation of all our endeauours The like did he to vs and withall told vs that he had beene in Port Nelson where he had put vp a Shallop and found there many things which Sir Thomas Button had left there The next day he departed from vs and stood to the Westward and we neuer saw him since His Ship He and all his Company were very well We continued our discouery to the Eastward and came to the Easter point which is in latitude 55. 06. which we named it Cape Henrietta Maria. There the land trends to the Southward and we followed it in sight but were put off with foule weather which being ouer-blowne we stood in againe for the Wester-shoare that we might leaue no part vnseene and followed it againe to latitude 54. 40. The second time wee also put off with like foule weather which made vs stand to the Eastward In this way we past by some Ilands and happened amongst broken grounds and rocks in latitude 53. 30. where wee came to an Anker and sheltred our selues some few dayes shifting Rodes Now the Winter began to come on and the nights to be long and cold that amongst these dangerous places wee were faine to spend the day to looke for securitie for the night Here by misfortune our Ship came aground and that amongst great stones as bigge as a mans head where shee did beate for the space of fiue houres most fearefully In this time we lightened her and carried some of our things ashoare so that by the great fauour of God we got her off againe whereupon we named this Iland the Iland of Gods fauour After that againe amongst those Rockes we were put to many extremities At length hauing a gentle Southerly winde we stood alongst the Eastershoare to the Northward now looking for a conuenient place to winter in And here againe were we assaulted with a violent storme in which we lost our Shallop and were driuen amongst diuers dangers and seeing an opening betwixt two Ilands we ventered to goe in in very foule weather We found it to be a very good Sound and there we came to an Anker We landed on one of them which we named the Lord Westons Iland and man'd out our old Ship boate vpon it The other Iland we named my Lord of Bristols Iland Parting from hence wee stood to the South-ward to looke for a wintering place because the time of discouery was past for this yeere Many were our troubles amongst these Ilands shoalds and broken grounds which made vs straine our ground tackle for life many a time The 6. of October we arriued in this Bay it seeming a very likely place to finde a Harbour in but searching the likeliest places we found it all so shoald flats and Rocks and stony by the shoare side that we could by no meanes bring our Ship neere the shoare but were forced to ride a league off in 3. faddome and a halfe water The winter came on apace the weather proued tempestuous and the cold so multiplied that our sailes froze in lumps to the yards vnmanuable Neither could our onely boate goe from the Ship by reason of the weather About the middle of October I caused a house to be made ashoare where our sicke men might the better recouer but alwayes with an intent to take it downe if we found other-where a place for our Ship I sent likewise men afoote seeing the boate could not goe to discouer the Iland and to see if they could find some Creeke or Coue but all in vaine we spent the time with hope of fairer weather till now the Cables began to freeze in the house and the Ship to be frozen ouer with the sprewe of the Sea so that we were faine to shouell the snow off our decks Moreouer the water began so to congeale by the shoare side that the boate could hardly get ashoare Yet for all that if the wind blew N. W. there went a very great surfe on the shoare and such a great Sea in the Bay that there was no bringing of our Ship aground Besides this she would haue then laine open to the E. and S. E. and S. and indeed the neerest land all about that way was 2. leagues off Hereupon we continued out the extremity at an Anker The 29. of Nouember the Ice came about vs on all sides and put vs from our ground tackle and would haue driuen vs out of the Bay vpon Rockes and shoalds where vndoubtedly we had perished but that by Gods great goodnesse it proued so warme a day the winde at S. that suddenly we brought vp some sayle and hoyst it vp with ropes and so forst her ashoare where shee beat all that night very sorely The Ship being now grounded and quiet wee considered what was best to doe with her and resolued to sinke her but the next tyde before we had any of our prouisions ashoare the winde came N. W. so that the Ship beat most fearefully We got all our dry prouisions vp to the vpper decke and made a hole to sinke her but before she was sunke she beat so extraordinarily that we all thought she had beene foundered Being sunke downe so low that the water came on the vpper decke we tooke our boate and went all ashoare in such pittifull cold weather that we were all so white frozen that some sicke men that were ashoare before did not know vs one from another The next day we fell to land our prouisions first our Bread Fish and dry things the men driuen to wade in the water vp to the middles most lamentable to behold Within 2. dayes what with great flat pieces that stucke about vs and that which froze it was becomne firme Ice betwixt the Ship and the shoare so that then we were faine to carry all things on our backs a mile from the Ship to the house Within few dayes the hold became so frozen that we could not get all our things out of it but were faine there to leaue it frozen till the next yeere Then we made vs 2. other houses our first house was our Mansion house wherein we did all lye together our other was to dresse our victuall and the third for a store-house which we built a pretty distance off for feare of fire And now we considered of the estate we were in we all doubted that the Ship was foundered especially our Carpenter But suppose she were sound yet was it a question whether we could get her off in the Summer when the tydes are low Moreouer she might be spoyled lying in the tydes way when the Ice brake vp and then we should be destitute of any vessell to bring vs home The Carpenter vndertooke to build a Pinnace of the burthen of 12. or 14. tunnes that should be ready by the Spring that if we found the Ship vnseruiceable we might teare her vp and planke
forementioned piece of Ice brake with a terrible noyse into foure pieces which made me doubtfull it had not spoyled the Ship it being full halfe mast high I made what haste I could to the boate and so to the Ship to be satisfied where I found all well God be thanked for that the Ice had broken from the Ship-ward I instantly sent away the boate to sound the way to a Coue that I had found which was a very dangerous passage for the boate At her returne we vn-moord the Ship and with what speede possible warpt away from amongst this terrible Ice We were not a mile from them but they brake all to pieces and would surely haue made vs beare them company but that God was more mercifull vnto vs. We got about the Rocks and so into this little Coue which I had so newly discouered Here we made fast to the Rockes and thought our selues in indifferent safety which being done I went ashoare againe to wander vp and downe to see what I could discouer I found it all broken Rockie grounds and not so much as a tree herbe or grasse vpon it Some Ponds of water there were in it which were not yet thawed and therefore not ready for the fowle We found not in the snow any footing of Deere or Beares but Foxes we saw one or two We found where the Saluages had beene but it was long since They had made fiue hearths and we found a few firebrands about them and some heads of Foxes and bones of Foxes with some Whale-bones I could not conceiue to what purpose they should come thither for we could finde none or very little wood on the shoares side and no fish at all though we did dayly indeauour to take some But it may be the season was not yet come I named this Coue by the Masters name of my Ship Prices Coue. The Latitude of it is 61. 24. the Variation The firebrands and chips which I spake of had beene cut with some hatchet or other good instrument of iron from the top of the hills we could see the Ilands that are on the South shore and commonly called Sir Thomas Buttons Iles They did beare South and by East halfe a point Easterly some 14. or 15 leagues distant vpon the change day it flowes here seuen a clocke and a halfe and the tyde highest at most three fad The flood comes from the Eastwards and thither it returnes I haue beene obseruant from the top of the hills whence I might descry the great pieces of Ice 2. or 3. leagues from the shoare driue to and againe with the flood and ebbe indifferently Hence I collected that assuredly there is no currant sets in here but that it is a meere tyde Neere the shoare the eddies whitle into twenty manners when the ebbe is made which is because it comes out of the broken ground amongst the Ice that is aground neere the shoare Besides which reason there be diuers Rockes lying vnder water on which you shall haue now 30. then 12. and anon but 8. and then 20. fad And these vncertainties occasion such distractions I would therefore aduise none to come too neere those dangerous shoares for feare hee lose his ship and so by consequence all The last night we tooke better rest then we had done in tenne nights before And this morning being the 24. there sprung vp a faire gale of wind at East and after prayer we vnfastened our Ship and came to saile steering betwixt great pieces of Ice that were a-ground in 40. fad and twice as high as our top-mast head Wee went forth of this Coue vpon the flood and had none of those whirlings of the waters as we had at our going into it We indeauoured to gaine the North shoare kept our selues within a league of the shoare of the Iland of Resolution where we had some cleere water to saile thorow In the Offing it was all thicke throngd together as might be possible By 12. a clocke we were fast inclosed and notwithstanding it blew very hard at East yet we could make no way through it but the hard corners of the Ice did grate vs with that violence as I verily thought it would haue grated the plankes from the Ships sides Thus we continued in torment till the day driuing to and againe in the Ice not being able to see an acre of sea from top-mast head This 26. was calme Sun-shine weather and we tooke the Latitude Variation The Latitude is the Variation we sounded and had ground at 140. fad small white sand I caused the men to lay out some fishing lines but to no purpose for I could not perceiue that baite had beene so much as touched The nights are very cold so that our rigging freezes and the fresh ponds of water stand vpon the Ice aboue halfe an inch thicke The 27. there sprung vp a little gale at South-East and the Ice did something open Hereupon we let fall our foresayle and forced the Ship thorow the throng of Ice In the Euening the winde came contrary at W. N. W. and blew hard which caused vs to fasten to a great piece to which we remained moord till the 29. I am resolued that here is no currant and that by many experiments which I haue made Namely by taking markes on the land and noting our drift to and againe with the ebbe and flood for many dayes together as well in calme weather as otherwayes By all these experiments I found exactly that the tide was no stronger there then that betwixt England and France This morning there sprung vp a fine gale at E. and the Ice did open something so that we did force the Ship thorow it with her fore-saile By 12. a clocke we were gotten into some open water with a fine gale of wind at East and so cleere weather that we could see the Iland of Resolution The North end did beare of vs E. N. E. some 12. leagues off From this 29. till the 5. of Iuly wee sayled continually thorow the Ice with variable winds and fogges and sometimes calme The 5. at noone we had a good obseruation and were in Latitude 63. 15. and then wee saw Salisbury Iland bearing W. by N. some 7. leagues off with much Ice betwixt it and vs to weather which we were driuen to stand to the Northward Soone after we saw Prince Charles his Cape and Mill Iland and to the North-north-west and in deed round about vs the Sea most infinitely pestered with Ice This did grieue mee very much for whereas I had determined to prosecute the discouery to the North-westward I saw it was not possible this yeere Wee were moreouer driuen back againe with contrary windes still closed and pestered with Ice and with all the perils and dangers incident to such aduentures so that we thought a thousand times that the Ship had bin beaten to pieces By the fifteenth day of Iuly we were got betwixt
Digges Iland and Nottinghams Iland not being able to get more Northward There for an houre or two we had some open water But before I proceed further it were not amisse in some manner to describe the Straight which begins at the Iland of Resolution and ends here at Digges Iland If you goe downe into the Bay the Straight is about 120. leagues long and trends W. N. W. and E. S. E. generally In the entrance it is about 15. leagues broad and then on the Southward side is a great Bay About the middest it is likewise about 15. leagues broad and then the Land opens something wider so that betwixt Digges Iland and Cape Charles it is about 20. leagues broad Betwixt which two stands Salisbury Iland and Nottingham Iland If it be cleere weather you may see both the South and the North shoares ordinarily the depth in the middle of the Straight is 120. faddomes white sand A certaine tyde runnes in it and no Current The North shoare is the straightest and the cleerest from Ice too Alongst the North shoare you haue many low small Ilands which cannot be seene farre off from the land and in many places the land makes as if it had small sounds into it The Maine land on both sides is indifferent high land And so much for discourse may suffice referring you to the Plot for the particulars Being now resolued of the impossibilitie to doe any thing to the North-westward for the reasons aforesaid I gaue order to the Master of my Ship to Steere away W. S. W. to haue a sight of Mansfeilds Iland which the next day by three a clocke in the after-noone we had hauing had so much dangerous foule weather amongst the Ice that we strooke more fearefull blowes against it then we had euer yet done This was the first day that wee went to halfe allowance of bread Flesh dayes and I ordered things as sparingly as I could Two of our men complaine likewise of sickenesse but soone afterward recouered In the euening wee came to an Anker and I sent the Boate ashoare to try the tydes They brought mee word that whilest the Boat was ashoare it flowed about some three foote and as wee found by the Ship and by the Ice the water at that time came from the W. S. W. and that the highest tydes so farre as they could perceiue it had not highed aboue two faddome They found that the Saluages had beene vpon it by certaine fires which they found and heapes of stones Tracks of other beasts but Foxes they could not finde The winde was so contrary and the weather so foggie that wee were faine to spend some powder to recouer our Boate againe Next morning being the 17. the winde came something fauourable and wee wayed The shoare being something cleere of Ice though very thicke all to the Offing wee stood alongst it S. and S. by W. some 10. leagues In the after-noone the winde came contrary and we came againe to an Anker within a mile of the shoare for to Sea-boord was all thicke Ice and vnpassable I went ashoare my selfe to be resolued of the tyde and found whilest I was a shoare that it did flow two foote and at that time the flood came from the S. W. by W. I doubted it was an halfe tyde which afterwards I found to be true I found where the Saluages had beene vpon the Iland but could see little or no drift wood on the shoare no beasts on the Iland nor fishes in the Sea It flowes on the change day about a eleuen a clocke We saw some fowle on it of which we killed one and returned aboord This Iland is very low land little higher then a dry sand-banke It hath Ponds vpon it of fresh water but no grasse and is vtterly barren of all goodnesse The 18. in the morning the winde came something fauourable and we weyed and came to Sayle for the Ice was all comne about vs. We endeauoured to proceed to the Westward intending to fall with the Westerne land about the Latitude 63. 00. By twelue a clocke hauing beene much pestered we were comne to a firme range of Ice but it pleased God that the winde larged and wee stowed away S. S. W. At noone in Lat. 62. 00. by 4. in the euening hauing scaped dangerous blowes wee were come as wee thought into an open Sea and ioyfully steered away West and W. by N. although that Ioy was soone quayled By ten at night we heard the rut of the Ice and it grew a thicke fogge and very darke with it neuerthelesse we proceeded and the neerer we came to it the more hideous noyse it made By three in the morning the 19. we were come to it and as it did cleere a little we could see the Ice which were as thicke rands of Ice as any we had yet seene These being vnpassable and moreouer the winde at N. W. we stowed alongst it hoping to weather it to the Southward but at last we became so blinded with fogge and so incompassed with Ice that we could goe no further The 20. in the morning notwithstanding the fogge we endeauoured to get to the Westward our Ship beating and knocking all this while most fearefully In this wilfulnesse we continued till the 21 when being fast amongst the Ice I obserued we were in Lat. 60. 33. and then looking what damage our Ship might haue receiued we could perceiue that below the plate of Iron which was before her Cut-water shee was all bruised and broken the two knees she had before to strengthen her spoyled and torne and many other defects which we could not by any meanes come to mend Notwithstanding all this and the extraordinary thicke fogge that we could not see a Pistoll shot about vs we proceeded with the hazzard of all Till the 27 which was the frist time we had cleere weather to looke about vs The winde withall came vp at South and the Ice did open something so that we made some way thorow it to the Westward In the euening we were fast againe and could goe no further the winde veering from the South to the East and blowing a fresh gale This occasioned our griefes the more that with a good winde wee could not goe forward putting therefore a Hawser vpon a piece of great Ice to keepe the Ship close to it we patiently expected for better fortune Since we came from Mansfields Iland our depth was commonly 110. and 100. fad oozye ground Now the water begins to showlde for this present 27. driuing fast to and againe in the Ice we haue but 80. fad ground as before The 28. and 29. we were so fast inclosed in the Ice that notwithstanding we put abroad all the sayle that was at yards and that it blew a very hard gale of winde the Ship stirred no more then if shee had beene in a dry Docke Hereupon we went all boldly out vpon the Ice to sport
and recreate our selues letting her stand still vnder all her Sayles It was flat extraordinary large Ice the worst to deale withall that we had yet found I measured some pieces which I found to be 1000. of my paces long This was the first day that our men began to murmure thinking it impossible to get either forwards or backe-wards Some were of the opinion that it was all such Ice betwixt vs and the shoare Others that the Bay was all couered ouer and that it was a doubt whether we could get any way or to any land to winter in The nights were long and euery night it did so freeze that we could not sayle amongst the Ice by night nor in the thicke foggie weather I comforted and incouraged them the best I could and to put away these cogitations wee dranke a health to his Maiestie on the Ice not one man in the Ship and shee still vnder all her sayles I most ingeniously confesse that all their murmuring was not without reason wherefore doubting that we should be frozen vp in the Sea I ordered that fire should be made but once a day and that but with a certaine number of shides that the Steward should deliuer to the Cooke by tale the better to prolong our fewell whatsoeuer should happen The 30. we made some way thorow the Ice we heauing the Ship with our shoulders and with Mawles and Crowes of Iron breaking the corners of the Ice to make way As we got forwards the water shoalded apace so that I beleeue it to be some Iland At noone we obseru'd thorow the fogge with the Quadrant vpon a piece of Ice and were in Lat. 58. 54. our depth 30. fad We put out hookes to try to catch some fish but to no purpose for there is not any in this Bay The 31. we laboured as aforesaid and got something forward At noone we were in Lat. 58. 40. our depth 23. fad It was very thicke hazye weather or else I thinke we should haue seene the land The first of August the winde came vp at West which droue vs to the Eastward where our depth increased to 35. fad At noone by obseruation with the Quadrant on the Ice we were in Lat. 58. 45. At sixe a clocke this euening we might perceiue the Ice to heaue and set a little which was occasioned by a swelling Sea that came out of the South-West This did comfort vs very much hoping shortly we should get out of the Ice The second it did blow hard at South-West and yet we could not feele the forementioned swelling Sea which did againe quench the hopes we had formerly conceiued The third wee did see a little open water to the North-westward and did feele a swelling Sea from the West which doth assure vs that there is an open Sea to the Westward The fift we saw the Sea cleere but could by no meanes worke our selues to it with our sayles wherefore about sixe in the euening wee let fall an Anker in 50. fad water and stood all with poles and oares to fend off the Ice and let it passe to Leewards We continued this labour all night In the morning the winde came vp at North-West and we wayed with much ioy as hoping now to get into an open Sea to the Southward This by noone we had done and were in Lat. 58. 28. very free of Ice The winde did large vpon vs so that we stood away North-West to get vp as high to the Northward as we could and so to come coasting to the Southward We went to prayer and to giue God thanks for our deliuery out of the Ice The ninth being in Lat. 59. 40. we came againe to the Ice which lye very thicke to the North since we came out of the Ice our depth increased to 110. and now decreaseth againe So that I thinke we approched towards the shoare The tenth prooued very thicke foggie weather the winde contrary and the water showlding apace we came to an Anker in 22. fad The eleuenth in the morning we wayed and made in for the shoare and about noone saw the land our depth being 16. fad in Lat. 59. 40. The land to the North of vs did trend North by East and so made a point to the Southward and trended away West by South which we followed making it for that place which was formerly called Hubberts Hope And so it prooued indeed but it is now hopelesse Two or three words now concerning the Bay that we haue past ouer It is from Digges Iland to this Wester land in latitude aforesaid about 160. leagues the course West South West the variation The tydes doe set in the middle of the Bay East and West as we haue often tryed by our ledde aground but neerer the shoares as they are forced by the land I am of the opinion that in the Ocean or in large Bayes the tydes doe naturally set East and West and that this doth giue little hope of a passage The greatest depth we had in the Bay was 110. fad and so shoalding as you approch to land we coasted round about this forementioned little Bay which is some 18. leagues deepe in 8. and 6. fad and in the bottome of it we were in two faddome and a halfe water and saw the firme land almost round about vs. Then we proceeded to the Southward sixe and seuen faddome water within sight of the breach of the shoare keeping the lead continually going and in the night we would come to an Anker This night being little winde we came to an Anker with our Kedger but in waying of him we lost him hauing no more aboord vs. The 12. we were in Lat. 58. 46. some two leagues from the shoare The variation is about 17. deg The 13. in the afternoone it being something hazye we saw some breaches ahead vs our depth was 9. and 10. fad and luffing to cleere our selues of them we suddenly strooke vpon the Rocks the Ship then being vnder our two Top-sayles Foresayle and Spreetsayle with a fresh gale of winde In this fearefull accident wee strooke all our sayles amaine and it did please God to send two or three good swelling Seas which did heaue vs ouer the Rocks into 3. fad and presently into three faddome and a halfe where we chopt to an Anker and sayed the pumps but we found shee made no water although shee had three such terrible blowes that we thought her Mast would haue shiuered to pieces and that she had bin assuredly bulged Wee hoyst the Boate ouer-boord and double man'd her to goe seeke and sound a way out of this perilous place Shee was no sooner gone but there rose a fogge so that we were faine to spend some powder that shee might heare whereabouts we were The winde duld something otherwise it had beene doubtfull whither shee could euer haue recouered to vs againe After shee had beene absent two houres she brought
extremity of cold and labour making way with shouels thorow the deepe Snow euen from the Sea-side vnto our Store-house And thus concluded we the old yeere 1631. Ianuary 1632. The first of Ianuary and for the most part all the moneth was extreme cold The sixth I obserued the latitude with what exactnesse I could it being very cleere Sun-shine weather which I found to be 51. 52. This difference is by reason that here is a great Refraction The one and twentieth I obserued the Sunne to rise like an Ouall alongst the Horizon I cald three or foure to see it the better to confirme my Iudgement and we all agreed that it was twice as long as it was broad We plainely perceiued withall that by degrees as it gate vp higher it also recouered his roundnesse The sixe and twentieth I obserued when the Easterne edge of the Moone did touch the Planet Mars the Lions heart was then in the East quarter 21. 45. aboue the Horizon but all this was not done with that exactnesse that I haue done other obseruations The thirtieth and one and thirtieth there appeared in the beginning of the night more Starres in the firmament then euer I had before seene by two thirds I could see the Cloud in Cancer full of small Starres and all the via lactea nothing but small Starres and amongst the Plyades a great many small Starres About tenne a Clocke the Moone did rise and then a quarter of them was not to be seene The wind for the most part of this month hath beene Northerly and very cold the warmest of which time wee imployed our selues in fetching Wood working vpon our Pinnasse and other things that happened In the beginning of this moneth the Sea was all firmely frozen ouer so that we could see no water any way I hope it will not seeme tedious to the Readers if I here deliuer mine owne opinion how this abundance of Ice comes to be ingendered The Land that encircles this great Bay which lyes in a broken Irregular forme making many little shoald Bayes and Guts being moreouer full of Ilands and dry sands is for the most part low and flat and hath flat shoalds adioyning to it halfe a mile or a mile that are dry at low water Now you must know that it flowes halfe tyde as I haue often experienced that is from whence the flood commeth the water thither returneth two houres before it be high water or full Sea It seldome raines after the middle of September but snowes and that Snow will not melt on the Land nor Sands At low water when it snowes which it doth very often the sands are all couered ouer with it which the halfe tyde carries officiously twice in twentie foure houres into the great Bay which is the common Rendezvous of it Euery low water are the sands left cleere to gather more to the increase of it Thus doth it daily gather together in this manner till the latter end of October and by that time hath it brought the Sea to that coldnesse that as it snows the snow will lye vpon the water in flakes without changing his colour but with the winde is wrought together and as the winter goes forward it begins to freeze on the surface of it two or three inches or more in one night which being carried with the halfe tyde meets with some obstacle as it soone doth and then it crumples and so runnes vpon it selfe that in a few houres it will be fiue or sixe foote thicke The halfe tyde still flowing carries it so fast away that by December it is growne to an infinite multiplication of Ice And thus by this storing of it vp the cold gets the predomination in the Sea which also furnisheth the Springs and water in the low flat lands that it cooles it like it selfe This may appeare by our experience though in all this I freely submit my selfe vnto the better learned Our men found it more mortifying cold to wade thorow the water in the beginning of Iune when the Sea was all full of Ice then in December when it was increasing Our Well moreouer out of which we had water in December we had none in Iuly The ground at ten foote deepe was frozen The quantitie of the Ice may very easily be made to appeare by Mathematicall Demonstration and yet I am not of the opinion that the Bay doth freeze all ouer For the one and twentieth the winde blowing a storme at North we could perceiue the Ice to rise something in the Bay February 1632. The cold was as extreme this moneth as at any time we had felt it this yeere and many of our men complained of infirmities Some of sore mouthes all the teeth in their heads being loose their gums swolne with blacke rotten flesh which must euery day be cut away The paine was so sore on them that they could not eate their ordinary meat Others complained of paine in their heads and their brests Some of weakenesse in their backs Others of aches in their thighs and knees and others of swellings in their legges Thus were two thirds of the company vnder the Chirurgions hand And yet neuerthelesse they must worke daily and goe abroad to fetch wood and timber notwithstanding the most of thē had no shooes to put on Their shooes vpon their comming to the fire out of the snow were burnt and scorcht vpon their feete and our store-shooes were all sunke in the Ship In this necessitie they would make this shift To bind clouts about their feet and endeauoured by that poore helpe the best they could to performe their duties Our Carpenter likewise is by this time falne sicke to our great discomforts I practised some obseruations by the rising and setting of the Sunne calculating the time of his rising and setting by very true running glasses As for our Clocke and Watch notwithstanding we still kept them by the fires side in a Chest wrapt in clothes yet were they so frozen that they could not goe My obseruations by these Glasses I compared with the Stars comming to the Meridian By this meanes wee found the Sunne to rise twentie minutes before it should and in the euening to remaine aboue the Horizon twentie minutes or thereabouts longer then it should doe And all this by reason of the Refraction Since now I haue spoken so much of the cold I hope it will not be too coldly taken if I in a few words make it someway to appeare vnto our Readers Wee made three differences of the cold all according to the places In our house In the woods and in the open Ayer vpon the Ice in our going to the ship For the last it would be sometimes so extreme that it was not indurable no Cloathes were proofe against it no motion could resist it It would moreouer so freeze the haire on our eye-lids that we could not see and I verily beleeue that it would haue stifled a man in a very few houres we
place so that hauing examined the Instruments and practised about it this Fortnight I now found it to be in 52 degrees and 3 minutes The foureteenth wee had heaued out all the Ballast and carried all our Yards and euery thing else of weight ashoare so that we now had the Ship as light as possible it could be The fifteenth we did little but exercise our selues seeing that by this time our men that were most feeble are now growne strong and can runne about The flesh of their gummes became settled againe and their teeth fastned so that they can eate Beefe with their Vetches This day I went to our Watch-tree but the Sea for any thing I could perceiue to the contrary was still firme frozen and the Bay we were in all full of Ice hauing no way to vent it The sixteenth was wondrous hot with some thunder and lightning so that our men did goe into the ponds ashoare to swimme and coole themselues yet was the water very cold still Here had lately appeared diuers sorts of flyes as Butterflyes Butchers-flyes Horseflyes and such an infinit abundance of bloud-thirsty Muskitoes that we were more tormented with them then euer we were with the cold weather These I thinke lye dead in the old rotten wood all the winter and in summer they reuiue againe Here be likewise infinite company of Ants and Frogs in the ponds vpon the land but we durst not eate of them they lookt so speckled like Toads By this time were there neither Beares Foxes nor Fowle to be seene they are all gone The seuenteenth the wind came Northerly and wee expecting a high Tyde in the morning betimes put out our small Cable asterne out at the Gun-roome-port but the morning Tyde we had not water by a foot In the Euening I had laid markes by stones c. and mee thoughts the water did flow apace Making signes therefore for the Boate to come ashoare I tooke all that were able to doe any thing with me aboord and at high water although she wanted something to rise cleere out of her docke yet we heau'd with such a good will that we heaued her thorow the sand into a foot and a halfe deeper water Further then so we durst not yet bring her for that the Ice was all thicke about vs. After we had moor'd her we went all to prayers and gaue God thankes that had giuen vs our ship againe The 18th we were vp betimes the Cooper and some with him to fill fresh water my selfe with some others to gather stones at low-water which we pyling vp in a heape at high water the Cock-swaine and his Ging fetcht them aboord where the Master with the rest stood them The Ship at low water had a great lust to the offing by which meanes we could the better come and stop the two vpper holes firmely after which we fitted other conuenient places to make others to sinke her if occasion were The ninteenth we were all vp betimes to worke as afore specified these two dayes our Ship did not fleet and it was a happy houre when we got her off for that we neuer had such a high Tyde all the time we were here In the Euening I went vp to our Watch tree and this was the first time I could see any open water any way except that little by the shoareside where we were This put vs in some comfort that the Sea would shortly breake vp which wee knew must bee to the Northward seeing that way we were certaine there was aboue two hundred leagues of Sea The 20. we laboured as aforesaid The winde at N. N. W. The tyde rose so high that our Ship fleeted and we drew her further off into a foote and a halfe deepe water Thus we did it by little and little for that the Ice was still wonderfull thicke about vs. The 22. there droue much Ice about vs and within vs and brought home our Sterne-Anker At high water notwithstanding all the Ice we heau'd our Ship further off that so she might lie aflote at low-water The next low-water we sounded all about the Ship and found it very foule ground we discouered stones 3. foote high aboue the ground and 2. of them within a Ships breadth of the Ship whereby did more manifestly appeare Gods mercies to vs for if when we forced her ashoare she had strooken one blow against those stones it had bulged her Many such dangers were there in this Bay which we now first perceiued by the Ices grounding and rising against them In the Euening we tow'd off the Ship vnto the place she rid the last yeere and there moord her Shering the Ship night and day flood and ebbe amongst the disperst Ice that came athwart of vs. The 23. we laboured in fetching our prouisions aboord which to doe we were faine to wade to carry it to the boate a full flight-shot and all by reason the winde was Southerly This morning I tooke an Obseruation of the Moones comming to the South by a Meridian line of 120. yards long which I had rectified many weeks before-hand The 24. I tooke another Obseruation of the Moones comming to the Meridian for which I referre you to the obseruations in the latter end of this Iournall Whereas I had formerly cut downe a very high tree and made a Crosse of it to it I now fastened vppermost the Kings and Queenes Maiesties Pictures drawne to the life and doubly wrapt in lead and so close that no weather could hurt them Betwixt both these I affixed his Maiesties Royall Title Viz. Charles the first King of England Scotland France and Ireland as also of New-found-land and of these Territories and to the Westward as farre as Nova Albion and to the Northward to the Latitude of 80. degrees c. On the out-side of the lead I fastened a shilling and a sixepence of his Maiesties Coyne vnder that we fastened the Kings Armes fairely cut in lead and vnder that the Armes of the City of Bristoll And this being Midsummer-Day we raised it on the top of the bare Hill where we had buried our dead fellowes formally by this ceremony taking possession of these Territories to his Maiesties vse The winde continuing Southerly and blowing hard put all the Ice vpon vs so that the Ship now rid amongst it in such apparent danger that I thought verily we should haue lost her We laboured flood and ebbe both with poles and oares to heaue away and part the Ice from her But it was God that did protect and preserue vs for it was past any mans vnderstanding how the Ship could indure it or we by our labour saue her In the night the winde shifted to the Westward and blew the Ice from vs whereby we had some rest The 25. in the morning the Boate-swayne with a conuenient crue with him began to rigge the Ship the rest fetching our prouisions aboord About 10. a clocke
of Ice whereupon as the wind fauoured vs we stood alongst it in sight to the North-ward The fourth was calme but so very thicke fogge withall that we could not see a Pistoll-shot about vs. Wherefore we came to an Anker and there rid all this day and the next night The fift at three in the morning we waide but Ice being all about vs we knew not which way to turne vs now to avoide telling the same thing 20 times we were continually till the 22. so pestered and tormented with Ice that it would seeme incredible to relate it sometimes we were so blinded with fogge that we could not see about vs and being now become wilfull in our indeauours we should so strike against the Ice that the fore-part of the Ship would cracke againe and make our Cooke and others to runne vp all amazed and thinke the Ship had beene beaten all to pieces Indeed we did hourely strike such vnauoidable blowes that we did leaue the hatches open and 20. times in a day the men would runne downe into the hold to see if shee were bulged Sometimes when we had made her fast in the night to a great piece of Ice we should haue such violent stormes that our fastning would breake and then the storme would beate vs from piece to piece most fearefully Other-while we should be fast inclosed amongst great Ice as high as our poope This was made as I haue formerly said by one piece running vpon another which made it draw 8. or 10. fad water Besides which the lower-most would rise from vnderneath and strike vs vnder the bulge with pieces of 5. 6. yea of 8. tunne that many times we haue pumpt cleere water for an houre together before we could make the pumpe sucke Amongst these seuerall and hourely dangers I ouer-heard the men murmure and say that they were happy that I had buried and that if they had a thousand pounds they would giue it so they lay fairely by them for we say they are destined to starue vpon a piece of Ice I was faine to indure all this with patience and to comfort them vp againe when I had them in a better humour The 22. hauing beene vext with a storme all last night and this morning with a thicke fogge we droue in 13. faddome water About noone it cleer'd and we saw the land and at the instant had a good obseruation whereby we knew it to be Cape Henrietta Maria. I made the Master stand in with it and in the meane time we fitted a Crosse and fastened the Kings Armes and the Armes of the City of Bristoll to it we came to an Anker within a mile of the shoare in 6. fadd water so we hoyst out the boate and tooke our Armes and our Dogs and went ashoare Vpon the most eminent place we erected the Crosse and then seeking about we soone saw some Deere and by and by more and more We stole to them with the best skill we had and then put our Dogs on them but the Deere ranne cleere away from them at pleasure We tyred the Dogs and wearied our selues but to no purpose neither could we come to shoote at them I saw in all about a dozen old and young very goodly beasts We tooke halfe a doozen young Geese on the pooles by wading in to them and so returned to our Boate vext that now we had found a place where there was refreshing and we could get none of it Whereas therefore we had kept our Dogs with a great deale of inconuenience aboord the Ship all the winter and had pardoned them many misdemeanors for they would steale our meate out of the steeping tubs in hope they might hereafter doe vs some seruice and seeing they now did not and that there was no hope they could hereafter I caused them to be left ashoare They were a Dogge and a Bitch Bucke Dogs of a very good race The Dogge had a collar about his necke which it may be hereafter may come to light I did see no signe at all of any Saluages nor could we finde any hearbs or other refreshing here In the Euening being returned aboord and the winde blowing faire at South I caused the Master to weight and come to saile and to lose no time For we did hope for an open Sea to the North-west This Cape hath a very shoald point that lies off it which we indeauoured to compasse about Sayling therefore amongst shattered Ice we came to very shoald water 4. and 5. faddome deepe and could not auoyde it At length standing North the water deepened but we came withall amongst great pieces of Ice which by reason of some open water there went a pretty sea These hard pieces of Ice made a most fearefull noyse It proued a faire Moone-shine night otherwise it had gone ill with vs. We turned amongst this Ice staying the Ship sometimes within her length of great pieces as bad as Rockes but by reason we were often forst to beare vp we did sagge vpon the maine rand of Ice and that we thought would it be worse for vs wee let fall an Anker and stood all on the decks to watch the Ices sheering of the Ship to and againe to auoyd it Thus hauing poles and oares to fend it we could not keepe our selues so cleere but many pieces came foule of vs. We brake two of our great poles with it which were made to be handled by foure men besides some other dammages At breake of day we wayed and sought all wayes to cleere our selues of Ice but it was impossible I conceiue it impertinent to relate euery particular dayes passages which was much alike to vs. Our endeauours were sometimes with our sayles giuing and receiuing 500. fearefull blowes in a day Sometimes we would stop at an Anker when we could get a little open water and so suffer the Ice to driue to Leeward Other-whiles we should be inclosed amongst it and then it would so breake and rise and leape vp vnder vs that we expected to be beaten euery houre to pieces Moreouer wee should haue such stormes in the darke nights that would breake the moorings we had made fast to some piece of Ice for securitie in the night season and then we should beat most dangerously from piece to piece till day-light that we could see to make her fast againe I forbeare to speake of thicke fogges which we had daily which did freeze our Rigging day and night Besides all which wee should come into most vncertaine depths sometimes 20. faddome next cast 10. next 15. then 9. Rocky foule ground The great deepe Ice withall driuing on these vncertaine depths did so distract the tydes and deceiue vs so much in our accounts that by the thirtieth we were driuen backe so farre to the Eastward and to the Southward of the Cape that at fiue a clocke in the euening it bare North-west of vs some three leagues off contrary to our expectations With all these
yet continue no weather to discouer in Thirdly we doubt whether Hudsons Straights be so cleere of Ice that it may be passable in conuenient time winter comming now on apace before we be frozen vp seeing the Ice lyes here all ouer the Sea in rands and ranges Fourthly wee must haue a set of faire weather to passe the Straight which we may stay a long time for if we neglect the first opportunity Fiftly for that our Ship is very leaky so that in foule weather we are faine to pumpe euery glasse which is great labour Moreouer we know her to be so sorely bruised with rocks and blowes of the Ice that shee is no more to be aduentur'd amongst it but in sauing of our liues homewards Besides all this our men grow very weake and sickly with extreme labour Sixthly the season of the yeere is so farre spent that we can expect no other weather then we haue had both lately and at present That is to say snow and fogge freezing our rigging and making euery thing so slippery that a man can scarce stand And all this with the winde Southerly which if it should come to the Northward then we are to expect farre worse Seuenthly and lastly that the Ice lyes all in thicke rands and ranges in the very way we should goe as you and all men here may see And therefore wee conclude as aforesaid That there is no possibilitie of proceeding further wherefore we here counsell you to returne homeward hoping that God will giue vs a fauourable passage and returne vs home safe into our natiue countreys If we take time and not tempt him too farre by our wilfulnesse Indeed most of these reasons were in view and I could not tell what to say to oppose them no nor any reason could I giue how we might proceed further wherefore with a sorrowfull heart God knowes I consented that the helme should bee borne vp and a course shapte for England well hoping that his Maiestie would graciously censure of my endeauours and pardon my returne And although wee haue not discouered populous kingdomes and taken speciall notice of their Magnificence power and policies brought samples home of their riches and commodities pryed into the mysteries of their trades and traffique nor made any great fight against the enemies of God and our Nation yet I wish our willingnesse in these desart parts may be acceptable to our Readers When we bore vp Helme we were in latitude 65. 30. at least North-west and by North from Nottingham Iland Some were of an opinion that we were further to the Northward but by reason it was by Iudgement I chose to set downe the lesser distance The twentie seuenth the winde came vp at North-west with which winde we could not haue gone on our designe That winde made no great swelling Sea By noone we were athwart of Cape Charles so that we went in betwixt that Cape and Mill Ilands The last night it did snow very much was very cold so that all our rigging sayles were frozen and all the land couered ouer with snow And here sithence I haue formerly spoken that it snowes very much it will not be amisse to consider of the reasons of it When I was vpon Charleton Iland our wintering place and in Iune when the snow was cleereliest gone off the ground I haue in the nights some of them following the hottest dayes obserued whether there fell any dew or no but I could neuer perceiue any vnder correction of the learned from mosse and sand little mee thoughts was to be expected Now of what was exhald from the snowy Ice and cold Sea could there probably be returned but the like againe Generally we continued on our course blinded with foggie and durtie weather and that intermixt with snow and frost amongst disperst pieces of Ice many of them higher then our Top-mast head With great varietie of winds we were also driuen within three leagues of both shoares so that the last of this moneth we were in the narrow of the Straight which is about fifteene leagues ouer the South shoare was much pestred with Ice September 1632. The first and second we continued our endeuour to get on our way The third in the euening as the weather cleered vp we did see the South end of the Iland of Resolution These three dayes and nights had beene extreme cold with fogge and frost insomuch that our men in the euening could hardly take in our Top-sayles and Spreet-sayle We haue sayled thorow much mountainous Ice farre higher then our Top-mast head But this day we sayled by the highest that I euer yet saw which was incredible indeed to be related Now as the winde comes Easterly wee feele another Sea out of the Ocean and the Ship labours with another motion then she hath done with any that euer we obserued to come out of the Westward From the third to the eighth we had varietie of winds and were gotten cleere out of the Straights but were now comne into such a tumbling Sea the weather durtie and gustie and by interims calme againe that the Ship did so labour and rowle that wee thought verily shee would haue rowled her Masts by the boord This made her so leaky that we were faine to pumpe euery glasse yea her seames did so open aloft that we lay all wet in her This was the last day that wee saw any Ice The winde now fauouring vs we made all the haste we could homeward By the way hauing endeauoured obserued and experimented some things in my vnfortunate voyage I perfected vp my said obseruations which being after commanded to publish I here most submissely offer vnto the Iudicious Readers and raine our priuate opinion withall concerning the faiseablenesse of the Action intended which was to finde a passage into the South Sea What hath beene long agoe fabled by some Portingales that should haue comne this way out of the South Sea the meere shaddowes of whose mistaken Relations haue comne to vs I leaue to be confuted by their owne vanitie These hopes haue stirred vp from time to time the more actiue spirits of this our Kingdome to research that meerely imaginary passage For mine owne part I giue no credit to them at all and as little to the vicious and abusiue wits of later Portingals and Spaniards who neuer speake of any difficulties as shoald water Ice nor sight of land but as if they had beene brought home in a dreame or engine And indeed their discourses are found absurd and the plots by which some of them haue practised to deceiue the world meere falsities making Sea where there is knowne to be maine land and land where is nothing but Sea Most certaine it is that by the onely industry of our owne Nation those Northerne parts of America haue beene discouered to the Latitude of 80. degrees and vpwards And it hath beene so curiously done the labours of seuerall men being ioyned together that