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A29826 A brief account of some travels in divers parts of Europe viz Hungaria, Servia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Thessaly, Austria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, and Friuli : through a great part of Germany, and the Low-Countries : through Marca Trevisana, and Lombardy on both sides of the Po : with some observations on the gold, silver, copper, quick-silver mines, and the baths and mineral waters in those parts : as also, the description of many antiquities, habits, fortifications and remarkable places / by Edward Brown. Brown, Edward, 1644-1708. 1685 (1685) Wing B5111; ESTC R7514 234,342 240

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being dark before we came to Mospach the Peasants conducted us from Village to Village with bundles of lighted Straw The next day we came to Poxberg where there is an old Castle and in the afternoon reached Morkenthal or Mergetheim the Seat of the Grand Master of the Herrhn Deutchern or the Teutonick Order The Town is well built hath a fair Piazza with a large Fountain in it and a Statue of one of the Grand Masters with a long Corridore from his Palace This Order hath been of great Fame and hath had large Possessions as may be seen in the exact Account of the Teutonick Knights of Prussia made out from the best Authors by my worthy honoured Friend Mr. Ashmole in his Noble Description of the Order of the Garter and as Lewis du May Counsellor unto the Duke of Wirtenberg hath set it down For the Knights Templers and of St. John having fought prosperously against the Infidels raised an Emulation in some German Gentlemen who waited upon the Emperor Frederick the First in his Expedition to the Holy Land to take the Croisado And because they were installed in the Church and Hospital of St. Mary at Jerusalem they were called Marianites Their Order differed nothing from those above-mentioned but in the form and colour of their Cross and was approved by Pope Celestin the Third Afterwards when Jerusalem was taken by Saladin those Knights betook themselves to Ptolemais from whence the Emperor Frederick the Second sent them back into Germany and employed them against the Prussians and Livonians who at that time were still Pagans But by the Valour and Piety of those Knights their Souls were brought into subjection to Christ and their Bodies to the Order which began that War in the year 1220. a little while after these Knights found themselves Masters of a Country of very large Extent which obeyed the Order till the year 1525. at which time Sigismond King of Poland gave the investiture of Prussia unto Albert Marquess of Brandenburg In the year 1563. the Great Master became Secular again and took a part of the Lands subject to the Order with the name of Duke of Curland And Livonia having been the Subject and Theatre of many Wars between the Polanders Muscovites and Swedes these last did at length become Masters of it and have it in possession still So that there is no more remaining of the Teutonick Order but some Commanderies scattered here and there in Germany And the Great Master hath his Seat and Residence at Mergenthal They wear on a white Matle a plain black Cross The Dignity of Grand Master is generally held by some Great and Honourable Person and in the Great Assembly he takes place of al Bishops The present is the Baron of Amring and the Grand Master before him was Leopold William only Brother to the Emperor Ferdinand the Third From hence we travelled to Lauterbach near which we passed through a Wood and found a Noble Church upon the top of a high Hill which being much frequented by Pilgrims they have made handsome stone Stairs from the bottom to the top then to Rotenburg and lodged at Burgperner and the next day by Schantzbach we came to Nurenberg Rotenburg is an Imperial City which some have likened unto Jerusalem for its Situation upon hilly places and many Turrets in it It is Situated near the head of the River Tauber which may be accounted the second River of Franconia passing by Rottingen Lander and Werthaim where it runs into the Main Nurenberg is the fairest City that I saw in Germany the Houses most of them of Free-stone very high and divers of them painted on the outside and adorned with gilded Balls on the top many are of six or seven Stories high Der Herr Peller hath one of the fairest The City is very populous and full of Trade although it stands in a barren Country and wants a Navigable River The three best Churches are the Hospital Church lately built very fair St. Laurence which is very large with two high Steeples in the Front and St. Sebald the best of the three The Body of St. Sebald being laid upon a Cart drawn with Oxen in that place where the Oxen stood still they buried the Body and erected this Church in his Memory In this Church is a Crucisix of Wood very well carved and esteemed at a high rate The Crucisix without the Church is very great and of a black colour and some fancy that the Raht Herrn or Magistrates of the Town have reposited a Treasure within it The Pulpit is well carved and gilded and the whole Church so stately that it may pass in the first rank of Lutheran Churches that Religion being here practised in its splendour The Priest every morning reads the Scripture to the people for half an hour or preaches a Sermon The Town-house is well worth the seeing In it the Hall is spacious as also the Chambers and furnished with good Pictures and Stoves well gilded and painted with white and gold green and gold dark coloured and gold and the like There is one Picture of most of the Great Persons in Germany entertained in the Great Hall another of the three Brothers of Saxony one of an Elephant as big as the life a piece of St. John and St. Mark and another of St. Peter and St. Paul both by Albert Durer but the most rare piece is that of Adam and Eve by the same Master with this Inscription Albertus Durer Almang faciebat post Virginis partum 1507. Another excellent one is that of St. Luke drawing the Picture of our Saviour and the blessed Virgin Over the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxe carved in Wood and painted over with this Inscription Omnia habent ortus suaque incrementa sed ecce Quem cernis nunquam Bos fuit●●ic Vitulus The Castle stand upon a high Hill from whence the Town makes a handsome show In it are observable a very deep well the Emperors Chappel his Picture and the Pictures of the Electors good Night pieces and one of a man behind a white Curtain transparent very well expressed The Armour of Hebbele van Gailinghen the great Sorcerer is here shown and in the Wall of the Castle the marks of his Horses feet when he leaped from thence over the Town ditch The new Fountain was not then finished but the Statua's in Brass made for it were excellent the Sea Horses large the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life and N ptune who was to stand on the top is above three yards and a halfhigh When I came first into this place I was not a little surprized to behold the fairness of the Houses handsome Streets different Habits industrious People and neatness in all things more than I had observed in German Cities before and no place hath greater number of curious Artificers in Steel Brass Ivory Wood wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap rate and there are Officers to
which hath red spots is accounted the best They use a peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimstone from the Ore some whereof yields three pounds of Sulphur out of an hundred weight of Ore which as it melts runs out of the Furnace into water or the Exhalations from the Ore near or in the Fire are condensed into Brimstone by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it this is once again melted and purified Some of the Brimstone Ore contains Silver some Copper and some both in a small proportion After the Sulphur is melted from the Ore the remainder serves for two uses that is either for the melting of Silver or for the making of Vitriol To the former only thus A proportion is cast into the melting Furnace of the Silver to this end to use the Miners expression to make the Silver which is hard fluid Two Miners in their habits Virgula Divina The figure of an Iron retort such as are vsed at the quicksilver worke at Idria Friberg is a round well-walled City hath handsom Streets a Piazza the Elector's Castle and five Gates The Church of St. Peter is fair where many of the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buried and have fair Monuments especiall Duke Mauritius Elector of Saxony whose Monument in black Marble is raised three piles high adorned with many fair Statua's in Al●baster and white Marble and esteemed one of the noblest if not the best in Germany And when this Town was surrendered unto Holck and Gallas Octob. 5. 1632 the Duke of Saxony paid 80000 Dollars to save the Monuments of his Predecessours from being ransacked and desaced it being the fashion of divers German Princes to be buried in their Robes with their Ensigns of Honour Rings Jewels and the like which would have been booty and probably have run the same fortune as the Cloister of Haibr●● within twelve English miles of Nurenberg where some of the Marquisses of Onspach who are of the Electoral House of Brandenburg lie entombed where Tilly's Souldiers brake open the Vault and robbed the dead Corpses of the Marquisses George Frederick and ●●achim Ernest of the Jewels Rings and other rich Ornaments with which they were entombed There are some Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City by which there are passages into the Mines This place was formerly streightly besieged by the Emperor Adolphus for the space of a year and a month and at last betrayed by a Fugitive who let in a party of the Emperors into the Town by a Subterraneous Passage near St. Donats Gate and upon the continual Batteries made at the Town and concussion of the Earth about it the Earth sunk down in many places and swallowed great numbers of the Emperors Army These Mines afford great benefit unto the City and also unto the Elector They are said to have been found out in the year 1180. But there have been other Silver Mines discovered since as at Schneeberg at Anneberg and at Joachims Dale 1526. Having passing some time at Friberg I ordered my Journey for Leipsick and travelling by Walthe●m and Coldick came unto it Leipsick is seated upon the River Elster which arising in Voytland or Terra Advocatorum passes by it and afterwards runs into the River Sala It is a rich and great trading City hath three Marts in the year and great resort unto it from many parts It is well built and divers Houses are seven stories high The Castle is strictly guarded and hath in it a strong white Tower But the Works about the Town are not very considerable although they might be made strong The Church of St. Nicholas is well adorned and hath the name to be the fairest within side of any Lutheran Church in Germany they have also a remarkable Burial-place or Godtsaker walled about and cloystered near the Wall wherein the better sort are buried as the rest in the middle and open part Which put me in mind of that noble Burial-place which I saw at Pisa in Tuscany called Il campo Santo because the Earth which the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa brought from the Holy Land for the Ballast of his Ships was laid upon that Ground Leipsick is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it in the last Swedish wars one between Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden and Count Tilly General of the Imperialists 1631. wherein the Swedes obtained a great Victory Tilly was wounded fled and lived not long after Another some years after in the same place wherein Leonard Torstenson the Swede overcame Arch-duke Leopoldus Gulielmus and Octavio Piccolomini Generals of the Imperial Army And about a mile and a half from hence at Lutzen another great Battel was fought 1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Army commanded by Albert Wallensteyn Duke of Friedland wherein the Swedes obtained the Victory but the King of Sweden was slain and on the Imperial side that famous Commander Godfrey Count of Pappenheim There is also an Vniversity at leipsick first occasioned by the German Scholars of Prague who in the troubles of the Hussites came hither to the number of Two thousand in one day and is still one of the Three Vniversities in the Elector's Dominions the other being Jena by the River Sala and Wittenberg upon the Elbe In this Vniversity they are much addicted to the study of the Law but there are also Learned men in other Faculties The Magistrates of Leipsick are also considerable Der herr von Adlershelme was the Burgomaster a courteous Learned Person and great Virtuoso who had collected and observed many things He hath had five fair Daughters brought up in all commendable ways of working Drawing Painting Inlaying with Flowers with Mother of Pearl Stones and other pretty Works And they spake divers Languages which they learned at a School in Holland So that his house hath a great deal of excellent Furniture of his Childrens work and is one of the most considerable Curiosities to be seen in Leipsick His Summer-house is handsom painted both within and without And in the Water about are Muscovy Ducks Indian Geese and divers rare Fowls In his Chamber of Rareties there are many things considerable But having seen divers of them in other places and lately set down some Varieties of the Elector of Saxony I shall mention but a few An Elephant's Head with the dentes molares in it An Animal like an Armadillo but the Scales are much larger and the Tail broader Very large flying Fishes A Sea-horse Bread of Mount Libanus A Cedar-branch with the Fruit upon it Large Granates as they grow in the Mine A Sire●s hand A Chameleon A piece of Iron which seems to be the head of a Spear found in the Tooth of an Elephant the Tooth being grown about it The Isle of Jersey drawn by our King Charles the Second A piece of Wood with the Blood of King Charles the First upon it A Greenland Lance with a large Bell at the end of it Much Japan painting
wherein their manner of hunting and working may be observed A Picture of our Saviour the Hatches of which are writing or written and contain the story of his Passion Bevers taken in the River Elbe A Picture of the murther of the Innocents done by Albert Durer Pictures of divers strange Fowls A Greenland Boat The Skins of white Bears Tigres Wolves and other Beasts And I must not omit the Garter of an English Bride with the story of it of the Fashion in England for the Bridemen to take it off and wear it in their Hat which seemed so strange to the Germans that I was obliged to confirm it to them by assuring them that I had divers times wore such a Garter my self Leaving this busy and trading City of Leipsick I directed my Journey unto Magdeburg and travelled through a plain Country between the River Sala and the Elbe by Landsberg nigh to Petersdorff where there is a small Hill which overlooks all the Country next to Koehten the Residence of the Prince of Anhalt then to Caln and over the River Sala before it runs into the Elbe which arising at Mount Fichtelberg now hastens towards it Fichtelberg is a considerable Mountain near which are divers Mines Baths and Mineral-waters of which Gasper B●uschius hath written a Description And from it arise four Rivers running to the four quarters of the World The Maine or Maenus towards the West the Nab or Nabus towards the South the Aeger towards the East and the forementioned Sala towards the North. These four afterwards fall into the three greatest Rivers of Germany the Danube the Rhine and the Elbe Then to Sals or Saltz a place noted for Salt-springs and that night to Magdeburg Parthenopolis or Magdeburg is seated by the River Elle formerly the Metropolitan City of Germany now under the Marquiss of Brandenburg of very great Circuit but little more than half built again since it was sacked and burnt by Tilly and Thirty six thousand persons put to the Sword and destroyed I could not but observe the ruinous and destructive effects of the late wars in many parts of Germany but not in any so great and flourishing a place as this And a man might think that after this great destruction of Houses and People this place should not be able to stand a Siege yet a few years after it was besieged by General Hatzfield unto whom Bannier the Swede not being able to relieve it it was yielded The Cathedral Church is very fair and built like an English one by the Emperor Otho the First and his Empress Editha an English Woman Daughter unto King Edmund whose Effigies in Stone I saw in the Church with nineteen Tuns of Gold by her which she gave thereto And to say the truth English money hath done great things in Germany for hereby or with a good part thereof this Church was built or endowed Leopoldus Duke of Austria built the old Walls of Vienna with the ransom of King Richard the First whom he detained in his return through Austria from the Holy Land King Edward the First sent a great Sum of Money unto the Emperor Adolphus for the raising of Souldiers in Germany which the Emperor employed in purchasing a great part of Misnia for himself The Lutheran Churches are handsom and their Pulpits are extraordinary noble and richly set off as I observed through all Saxony Norimberg and where they are Masters of the Places and have not their Churches only by permission here they shewed me in the Cathedral Church of St. Maurice the Statua's of the five wise Virgins smiling and of the five foolish Virgins lamenting which are very well expressed They shewed me also two odd Reliques which they still kept as Rareties that is the Bason wherein Pilate washed his hands when he declared himself free from the Blood of our Saviour and the Ladder whereon the Cock stood when he crowed after St. Peter's denying of Christ In the Ruines of the Cloister of the Augustines there is still to be seen Luther's Chamber his Bedstead and Table and upon the Door are these German Verses Dis war Lutheri Kammerlin Wan er in 's Cl●ster kam herin Gedachnis halb wird noch itzund Herin gesehen sein Bettespund i. e. Luther did lodge within this little Room When first he did into the Cloister come In memory whereof we still do keep The Bedstead within which he us'd to sleep I lodged at Magdeburg in an old man's House who would tell me many stories of the burning of the Town the cruelties and bloody usage of the people who were destroyed without exception The Nuns many of them being drowned in the River Elbe Alter which some observed that Count Tilly never prospered in his Wars He told me also that Dureus lodged with him who was employed by King Charles the First to endeavour a reconciliation between the Lutherans and Calvinists in Germany and to unite them if possible We were now in the Territory of the Elector of Brandenburg Fridericus Wilhelmus Great Chamberlain of the Empire who is in effect possessed of Magdeburg and next unto the Austrian Family is the most potent Prince in Germany being able to raise great Armies and his Dominions so large that they are reckoned to extend two hundred German miles in length from the further part of Prussia unto Cleve but they lay not together but interspersed with many other Princes Countries Howsoever a Horse-man may so order his Journey as to lie every night in one of the Electors Towns in travelling from one end of his Territories to another I had now left the pure German Language behind me for at Magdeburg comes in another kind of German called Plat-Deutch Broad-Dutch Niedersachsische or the Language of lower Saxony a great Language spoken in the North part of Germany They speak it at Hamburg Dantzick ●ubeck and many great Cities But they can converse with the other High-dutch and with some difficulty also with the Netherlanders the one speaking in his Language and the other replying in his At this City of Magdelurg was performed the first Turnament that was in Germany which was opened in the year 635. by the Emperor Henry Surnamed the Fowler who coming from the War of Hungary exceedingly satisfied with the Nobility would oblige them to exercise themselves in handling their Arms and managi g their Horses and therefore instituted these Sports whereby the Nobility was powerfully attracted to Valour and Gallantry and induced to perfect and accomplish themselves in all kind of Chevalry No new Nobility no Bastard no Vsurper none guilty of High Treason no Oppressor of Widows and Orphans none born of Parents whereof one was of base Extraction and Ignoble no Heretique Murderer Traytor no Coward that had run away from the Battel nor indiscreet Person that had given offence to Ladies by word or deed were admitted to this Honour nor above One of the same Family at a time Princes came into the Lists with four Squries
it more strong the Rivers of Brenta and Bacchiglione are let into the Town Ditch The inward Wall is now most considerable for its Antiquity and for retaining the name of its Founder it being still called Antenor's Wall It contains a far less space of ground than the former Padoa being built in this respect like to the City of Aix la Chapelle or Aken having own Town within another That Patavium or Padoa is one of the oldest Cities of Europe built presently after the Trojan War is confessed by Ancient Writers and so generally believed of old that Livy lays it down for the Ground-work of his History beginning in this manner Jam primum omnium satis constat Troja capta c. i. e. In the first place it is sufficiently manifest that Troy being taken the Grecians executed the utmost of their rage upon the Trojans Aeneas and Antenor only excepted by reason of their ancient friendship with the Greeks and in respect that they had always endeavoured to make Peace and restore Helena After various fortunes Antenor brought a great Number of the Heneti who having lost their King Pylemon at the Wars of Troy and being driven out of Paphlagonia by a Faction were now seeking new Seats and a Captain to lead them and came along with them to the bottom of the Adriatick Gulf drove out the Eugenians who inhabited between the Sea and Alpes and established the Trojans and the Heneti in those Countries Martial also saluting Flaccus a Padoan Poet calls him Flacce Antenorei spes Alumine Laris. And that you may more firmly give credit to it you may further also have the authority of a Goddess for it for Venus is introduced expostulating in these terms with Jupiter in the behalf of Aeneas Quem das finem Rex magne malorum Antenor potuit mediis elapsus Achivis Illyricos penetrare sinus atque intima tutus Regna Liburnorum et fontem superare Timavi Vnde per ora novem vasto cum murmure montis It mare proruptum et pelago premit arva sonanti Hic tamen ille urbem Patavi sedesque locavit Teucrorum et genti nomen dedit armaque fixit i. e. What time great King shall terminate our woes Safe could Antenor break through all his foes Pierce to the bottom of the Illyrian bay View Kingdoms where Liburnian Princes sway Pass the nine mouths of fierce Timavus waves Which rores upon the hills and o'er the valleys raves And there could fix and on that foreign ground Great Padoa's tow'rs for after ages found New name the people and free from all alarms Hang up in peace his consecrated arms In those days when the art of Navigation was but in its infancy and the Mariners very unwillingly parted with the sight of land Antenor was forced to keep close and creep along the Coast of Peloponnesus and Epirus and then sail by the Illyrian and Liburnian Shoars which are very uneven and troublesom to deal with being full of Creeks unsafe Bays and Rocks besides very many Islands of various shapes Whereas if he had crossed over to the Italian coast he had had a nearer voyage and sayled with pleasure all along an even bold brave shoar The people of Padoa are well pleased with the thoughts of their Ancient founders and Progenitors and they still preserve the tomb of Antenor near to which at present stands the Church of Saint Lawrence and in their publick shows they will still be representing something of Troy and the old Trojans and in one place I saw a horse of wood about twenty foot high in imitation of the old Trojan horse but I suppose nothing near so big as the first original Yet when I consider that above eleven hundred years after the destruction of Troy when Towns and Buildings were very much amplified and improved Pompey coming in Triumph could not enter even the great Triumphal gates of Rome it self in a chariot drawn by Elephants an Animal that seldom or never comes to be so high as this Horse it may well be supposed that they could not have received even this poor model of the first great one into the old town of Troy without pulling down their walls The T●mb● of Antenor The Buildings at Padoa both publick and private are very considerable for most of the City is built upon Arches making handsom Portico's or cloysters on each side of the street after the manner of the houses in the Piazza of Convent Garden which at all times afford a good defence against the Sun and Rain and many of the houses are painted on the outside with very good History-Painting in Fresco their Churches are fair and divers well adorned The Domo or Cathedral Church is large seated near the middle of the City endowed and mightily enriched by the Emperor Henry the fourth whose Empress Berta lies buried here The Revenues of this Church at present are reckoned to amount to a hundred thousand Crowns a Year and besides the Monuments of many eminent persons they preserve here the body of St. Daniel of Cardinal Pileo da Pratta and of Cardinal Francesco Zabarella The Church of St. Antonio is visited by persons far and near and the exquisite Design artificial Carving in Marble the handsom Quire and rich Ornaments make it worth the seeing The top of the Church is made up of six Cupola's covered with lead the Chappel of St. Antonio is nobly set out with twelve marble pillars and a rich roof Between the Pillars are carved the miracles of this Saint who lies interred under the Altar upon which stand seven Figures made by Titian Aspetti a good statuary of Padoa and behind the Altar there is a most excellent Basso relievo done by Sansovinus Tullius Lomburdus and Campagna Verone●sis Over against the Chappel of St. Antonio stands the Chappel of Saint Faelix and his tomb nobly wrought with coloured marble and the whole splendidly adorned with the paintings of the highly celebrated Giotto The chief Reliques in this Church are the Tongue and Chin of St Antonio a Cloth dipped in the blood of our Saviour Three thorns of his Crown and a piece of the wood of the Cross some of the hair and milk of the blessed Virgin and some of the blood of the marks of St. Francis Before the Front of the Church there is a handsom brass Statue on Horse-back representing the great Venetian General Gattemela St. Ant●nio lived six and thirty years dyed upon the thirteenth of June 1231 and was canonized by Pope Gregory the ninth in the City of Spoleto 1237. The convent of the black Monks of St. Benedict may compare with most in Italy and their Church dedicated to Santa Giustina built by Palladio is one of the fairest in Europe Saint Giustina was a Virgin and Martyr daughter to Vitaliano of this City she suffered Martyrdom in the time of Maximianus the Emperor In this Church there are still preserved as they say the body of St. Luke the
Party bathes Then if he be a Subject of the grand Seignior's or it be the Custom of his Country he hath his head shaved and if a young man his beard except the upper Lip next the Barber rubs his Breast Back Armes and Legs with an hair Cloth while he either sitteth or lieth with his face downward then washes his head with Soap and after throws cold Water upon him all over his Body and then he walks in the steam of the Bath for a time The Germans call this City Offen and some will have it founded by Buda the Brother of Attila the Famous King of the Hunnes And to speak the truth among all the numerous Countries and Places Conquered by that Warlike Nation they could not choose out indeed a nobler Seat to build a City in where besides the advantage of their natural Baths and Stoves this being placed upon the Banks of the greatest River in Europe where it runs in one entire Stream and the City rising up by degrees to the top of Hills affording from most Streets of the Town a Prospect of twenty Miles or more on the other side of the Danube as far as ones eye can reach with the view of Pest and the long Bridge of Boats and the beautiful fruitful Country about it renders it most exquisitely pleasant and delightful and was the Royal Seat of the Hungarian Kings and Queens till that Solyman the Magnificent entered it with his Sons Selimus and Bajazet on the Thirteenth of ●ugust in the Year One Thousand Five Hundred Forty One and made a Decree that Buda should be from that day kept by a Garrison of Turks and the Kingdom converted into a Province of the Turkish Empire and the Queen and her young Son be sent into the Country of Lippa beyond the River Tibiscus at a little distance from Buda or Offen there is another Place called old Offen conceived to be Sicambria of old where the Sicambrian Souldiers quartered in the time of the Romans and some Antiquities and Inscriptions have been taken notice of in that place Over against Buda upon the Eastern-shoar of Danubius stands the City Pest being Quadrangular and seated upon a Plain and by ●eason of its Wall and the Towers of the Mosches makes a handsom show from Buda It gives the name unto the County or Comitatus Pesthiensis Hungaria being divided into Counties like England between this place and Buda the handsom Bridge of Boats is above half a Mile long The habit of the Turkish Women seemed new and strange to me Breeches almost to their feet a kind of Smock over them and then a long Gown with their Head-dress which setches about covering their face except their eyes and makes them look like Penitents but it was not unpleasant unto me as taking away the occasion of Pride and Folly though otherwise it can have no good grace in a stranger's fancy During our Stay at Buda we went into a Turkish Convent where the Prior or Superior called Julpapa or Father of the Rose with some of his Brethren brought us into a large Room like a Chappel and entertained us with Melons and Fruit at parting we gratified them with some pieces of Silver which were kindly accepted The Julpapa had his Girdle or Ceinture embossed before with a whitish Stone bigger than the palm of my hand which was Galactites or Milk-stone whereof they have a great opinion because in their belief Mahomet turned a whole River in Arabia into this kind of Stone We lodged at an old Rascians house where we were well accommodated having from it a fair Prospect over the Danube the long Bridge and Pest and a good part of the Country Divers Turks and some Chiauses resorted unto us where they were treated to their content The Master of the House was thought to hold secret correspondence with a Franciscan Friar of Pest and to give intelligence of Occurrences unto the Ministers of State at Gomora Rab and Vienna he prevailed with me to pen a Letter in Latin and Italian wherein I was not unwilling to gratisie him because it contained nothing besides an account of some Prisoners and the encroachment of the Armenian Merchants upon the Trade As we were riding in the City divers of the common Turks murmured that we should ride where they went on foot But I was pleased to see many Turks to salute Seiginor Gabriel the Emperors Courrier in our Company and to take his hand and put it to their foreheads but was much more delighted with the courteous entertainment of Mortizan Ephendi a person of note and who had been an Envoy extraordinary at Vienna He received us in an handsom large Room and treated us with great kindness saying that he desired our company not to any Feast but to a Treat of Affection and Respect such as might declare that we had conversed like friends and eat and drunk together he called for a stool that I might sit down it being then uneasie to me to sit cross-legged and asked me whether I would learn the Turkish Language or whether I would go to the Port and how I liked Buda and among other questions asked what was the King of Poland's name and when I told him Michael Wisnowitski his reply was s mewhat strange unto me saying Michael that 's a good name that 's the name of the greatest Saint in Heaven except Mary and so having entertained us he dismissed us with good wishes At our return to this place after two days stay the Governor sent us with four and twenty Horse Souldiers into Christendom again these guarded us with great care a day and a night till they saw us safe at Dotis But now leaving Buda we travelled by Land Eastward and passing by the ruines of the King of Hungary's Mint-house by Ham Zabbi Palanka and by Erzin we came to Adom in Turkish Tzan Kurteran or anima liberata so named by Solyman the Magnificent because in his hasty retreat from Vienna he first made a quiet stop at this place and there could think himself secure from any pursuit of the imperial Forces This place was afterwards taken by Graff Palsi from thence we came to Pentole or Pentolen Palanka This or Adom is conceived to be the old Potentiana where the Hunnes invading those parts fought a bloody Battel with the Romans under the conduct of Macrinus and Tetricus but were overthrown From hence to Fodwar in sight of Colocza seated on the other side of the Danube in the road to Temeswar formerly an Arch-Bishops See whereof Tomoreus was Bishop whose rashness conferred much unto the loss of Hungary at the Battel of Mohatz Then by Pax or Paxi unto Tolna formerly Altinum or Altinium where the Hunnes being recruited fought a second Battel obtained the Victory and expulsed the Romans though not without the loss of forty thousand of their own men This hath been a very great place but burnt by the Christians The Hungarians and Rascians who inhabit here living in
of Glaa●nfurt● Chief City of Carinthia pag 〈◊〉 The manner of passing through this Hill was surprizing unto me having never read nor heard hereof before I thought it might be some work of the old Romans but I was afterwards informed that it was much later and that if former time there was no passage into Carniola this way but they went about by Villach At first sight of this hole when I was far below it I conjectured it might be th● ha●itation or Chappel of some Hermit but could not imagin how he should come unto it till at last by the winding and turning of the way up the Hill I did not onely pass through it my self but met with divers Passengers who came out of Carniola and it is so well contrived that the Country carriages and Carts pass through it every day In ascending this Hill we had bad weather rain and fierce hail and and the snow laid still by the way-side and being so high at the time of a strom I had an opportunity to see the Clouds descend and after it was past to ascend again so high as to got over part of the Mountain and a stream of them passed through the hole out of Carniola into Carinthia oppositely unto us who passed out of Carinthia into Carniola or out of Karnten into Craen This noble passage being already so well contrived and in the Country of a laborious and industrious people is like to be continued who remove the snow with great pains in the Winter and keep the way passable and as we continually ascended till we came to this Grotto so when we were once got through it we always descended came first to S. Anna two English miles downward then to Newstuttel a German mile and half further still descending and proceeded forward till we came to Crainburg which is thought to have been formerly Carnodunum a good Town seated upon the River Savus from whence through a fair Plain four German miles long we came to Labach or Lubiana the chief City of Carniola the River Labach runs through it which falls afterwards into the Savus It is an handsome City with a Castle seated upon an Hill which over-looks two large Valleys to the North and South and hath a fair Prospect of many Hills and Castles but being commanded but another Hill not far from it it is neglected although we find that it hath endured a strong Siege for while the Emperor Frederick was receiving the Crown at Aken his Brother Albertus and Count Vlrick took the advantage to besiege it but it made so good resistance that the Emperor had time to raise the Siege and destroy the Army At Labach I happily met with Mr. Tosh a Scotch Apothecary in that Town who was very civil unto me informing me of the places about and shewing me many Curiosities and the several Minerals of those parts This place is conceived to be old Nauportus famous for the landing of the Argonautes who setting forth from Argos Pelasgicum in Thessaly sailed unto Colchos on the East side of the Euxine Sea but being pursued by the King of Colchos his Vessels dispatched after them they declined returning by the Hellespont but bearing Northward entred the mouth of Ister or Danubius and passed up the River till they came to the concurrence of the Danubius and the Savus and taking up the Savus they came to the River Labach and went up that River landing about this place anciently called Nauportus and then travelled to the Adriatick Sea and returned unto Greece So that in my travels I had been near their setting out in Thessaly and at the place of their landing in Carniola From hence we travelled towards the Zirchnitzer-See or famous strange Lake of Zirchnitz having the Marshes on our right hand and the Hills on our left till we came to Brounitza and then passing over them we came to Zirchnitz a Town of about three hundred Houses which gives the name unto the Lake here I applyed my self unto Andreas Wifer the Richter or Judge of the Town who afforded me directions and accommodations for the viewing of the Lake and went down to Seedorff a Village half a mile nearer the Lake and then to Niderdorff where I took Boat and spent some time upon the Lake This Lake is about two German miles long and one broad encompassed with Hills at some distance and upon the South-side lies a Forest part of Birnbaumer Forest which extends a great way wherein are many Dear wild Boars Foxes Wolves and Bears Every year in some part of the Month of June the water of this Lake descends under ground through many great holes at the bottoms and in the Month of September returns again by the same holes and with a speedy ascent springing and mounting up to the heighth of a Pike and soon covering that tract of ground again When the water is under-ground the Earth makes a speedy production of of Grass yielding food for Cattel in the Winter and at the same time Hares Deer and Boars resort to this place out of the Country and the fore-mentioned Forest and are often taken by the people The Lake affords plenty of Fish but they fish but by permission for the Prince of Eckenberg is Lord thereof and a good part of the Country about but upon the going away of the water all have liberty to take Fish which they do by standing in the water by the holes and so intercepting their passage take great plenty of them which otherwise would follow the water under-ground and not returns again until September I could not hear that any unknown Fishes were brought up by the water but those which come up are of the same kind with those which went down which are a kind of Carp Tench Eels and such as are common in other Lakes and they are rather gainers than Loosers hereby when they come up for the Fish having spawned before the fry that goes down hath had about three months growth under ground when they are brought up again The Ground under the Lake is very unequal and the water not near of the same depth but in some places four foot and then suddenly again twenty yards deep and because the Fish frequent the Valleys or deeper places more than the Hills or eminent parts the Fishermen who know the place wet and dry have given unto seven of these Valleys peculiar names which in the Sclavonian the Language of that Country are these Vodanas Reshetu Sitarza Ribishkiama Naknisha Levishe Kottel I passed over the five first mentioned Valleys and went to a noted Stone called the Fishers Stone by the appearance whereof they can conjecture how soon the water will descend and by an Hill which when the water is high becomes a pleasant Island and then returned They can give no account that this Lake hath failed any year to descend and arise again or have any tradition how long this property of the Lake hath been observed Some Lakes
Liege The Cathedral bears the Name of St. Lambert who being Bishop of Maestreicht was murdered by Dodo and others about the year 622. The Sea was afterwards translated unto Liege by Hubertus as it had been formerly from Tongres to Maestreicht and the Body of St. Lambert removed unto this Church which is at present very noble being built of a reddish Stone very much carved without and handsomly adorned within Between the Quire and Sacristy is this Inscription in very large Letters D. O. M. Intemeratae Virgini Mariae Sancto Lamberto Ecclesiae Patriae Divis Tutelaribus Maximilianus Henricus utriusque Bavariae Dux Archiepiscopus Elector Coloniensis Episcopus Princeps Leodiensis Ernesti Ferdinandi Bavariae Ducum Episcoporum Principum Leodiensium Nepos Sucessor in sui Predecessorum memoriam Ponebat MDCL VIII The Canons here are of great riches and power and have the Election of the Bishop and Prince who hath also had the Titles of Duke of Bouillon Marquiss of Franchimont and Count of Lootz and Hasbania In the Coin of Maximilian the present Elector of Colen and Bishop of Liege I find this Inscription Maximilianus Henricus Dei gratiâ Archiepiscopus Coloniensis Episcopus Princeps Leodiensis Supremus Bullonensis Dux Speutus the Bishop of Liege bought the Principality of Liege of Godfrey of Bouillon when he went to the Holy Land And in the Treaty of Cambray 1559. the possession of Bouillon and precedency of Ti le was granted to the Bishop of Liege although at this time also the Houses of La Tour and Mark do bear the same Of the Parish Churches that of St. John and of St. Servasius are fair Of the Abbeys that of St. Jacob within the Town and of St. Lawrence built by Bishop Raginardus upon an Hill out of the Town are noble There is also a College of English Jesuites well-seated upon a Hill where the Garden is handsom and the Dyals made by Franciscus Linus are worth the seeing And an English Nunnery handsomly built In the Church of the Gulielmites out of the Town lies the Body of our famous Country-man Sir John Mandeville who after he had travelled through many parts took an affection unto this place and here passed the remainder of his life and whose Epitaph and some Rareties of his are still to be seen Bishop Notger who was consecrated by St. Gereon Arch-bishop of Colen and died in the year 1007. built the walls of this City and being Tutor to Otho the third he found means very much to beautifie it to repair and build divers Churches and endow them with rich Revenues and let the River Maes into the Town which before ran upon one side of it As their Churches are fair and numerous soo are their Bells and Chimes remarkable In the Cathedral of St. Lambert there are eight large Bells and twelve lesser and there is one so great as it is said to require Twenty four men to ring it In the Church of St. Paul the Bells and Chimes are considerable as also at St. Lawrence and the crossed Friars It is also an University and was so famous in former Ages that they still take notice that at one time there have been Nine Sons of Kings Twenty four Dukes Sons Twenty nine of Counts besides many of great Barons Students therein Their Speech here as also at Spaw is called Roman and is a kind of old French or Dialect of that Languag a great part of which is made up of Latin or Roman words and they call the Neighbouring Language of the Dutch Tuiscon But many speak very good French They have some Vineyards affording a small Wine The Hills about furnish them with Quarries of good Stone and of several kinds They have also divers Mines and Minerals and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire in some places fetched deep out of the Earth in others nearer the Surface and in one place I saw them beginning to dig where they immediately found Coal Their Pumps and Engines to draw out the water are very considerable at these Mines in some places moved by Wheels at above a Furlongs distance to which they are continued by strong Wood-work which moves backwards and forwards continually The Cittadel stands upon a Hill and is of great Strength It was built to keep the City of Liege under Subjection For 1649. there being some disturbances in the City Ferdinand the Elector of Colen offering to come into the Town to appease it was opposed by the Consul Jacobus Hennet who was soon after surprized and beheaded together with Bartholomaeus Rolandus the Consul having sworn the Elector should never come in whilst he were alive And the Cittadel soon after was ordered to be built The Bridges are handsom that over the great Stream of the Maes is very broad and fair and hath large Arches From hence we could read the Elector's name upon the Cittadel Maximilianus although it were at a very great distance the Letters were so large From Liege we had a pleasant passage down the Water to Maestreicht passing by Argentau a Castle seated upon a high Rock on the right side of the River belonging then to the King of Spain afterwards by Vichet in the half way and then by Navagne a strong Fort in the Maes which commands the River and at that time did the Spaniard service then by pleasant Rocks on our left hand wherein many Cuts and passages have been digged till we came in sight of Maestreicht This Town having been a little before taken from the Vnited States by a sharp Siege was full of French and had a Garrison in it of about ten Thousand men and in the Market-place stood about Two hundred large Fieldpieces We saw the places where they made their Batteries and their Mines the Out-works were very numerous and many of them undermined Colonel Storff shew'd us a handsom Draught of all the Works Approaches and Manner of taking of the Town About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went into the great Quarry of Stone which is one of the noblest sure in the World Between Padoa and Vicenza I had formerly seen the famous Cave of Custoza or Cubola said to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth and Seven hundred in length but this doth far surpass it the Roof is very high and stately in most places the Pillars not to be numbred all very large we passed two miles under ground amongst them No Labyrinth can be contrived more intricate and yet all parts are uniform The Floor all in a level and the Roof in most places of the same height and so much hath that uniform rule which I suppose was set to those who first digged and so hath successively been observed added to the beauty of this place that there is scarce any thing more noble It put me in mind of the hundred chambers of Nero which he caused to be made under Ground in the Rocks at Baiae And the Water which we
the Sea in almost round the Town for a great space whereby it is become much more strong and defensible than before For when I looked upon it and considered what it was when it was besieged by Arch-duke Albertus and taken by Marquiss Ambrosius Spinola 1604. with an honourable Surrender after three years Siege I cannot but ascribe very much unto their Supplies from England and the obstinate Valour of the Defendants especially the English under Sir Francis Vere Sluys being in the hands of the States of the Vnited Provinces and Dunkirk under the French The Spaniards possess no other Port in Flanders but this and Newport and this being the most considerable they are now making the Haven large and are upon a considerable Work in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut which goes from Ostend to Bruges out of their Harbour by the means of a very great Lock or Receptacle of Water which is to communicate with both which when it is finished may be very advantageous to the Traffick of the Spanish Netherlands This Town stands very low but the Streets are straight large and uniform From hence I went all along upon the Sea-shoar to Newport a handsom Town with large fair Streets but low built There were then a great number of small Ships in the Harbour This place is famous for the Battel of Newport fought here by Albertus and Count Maurice wherein the Spanish Forces lost the day and much of the honour of the Field was due unto the English under Sir Francis Vere since which time although there hath been much bloud shed in these Quarters yet there hath not been so considerable a Battel ever since although the English had also the fortune to do great Service hereabout at a fight called the Battel of the Sandhils when a part of the Army of French and English which besieged Dunkirk fought with the Spanish Forces by Newport and overthrew them From Newport we put to Sea sailing out of the Harbour and intending for England but the wind being very high and contrary after having been at Sea all the night and had leisure to take notice of the great number of Sands upon that Coast in the morning we put into Mardike where at present there is only a Fort of Wood just above the High-water mark with some few Guns mounted The other Fort more into the Land being demolished Dunkirk is much increased of late and the King of France hath not spared money to render it considerably strong He hath very near finished a noble Cittadel begun by the English while this Town was in their possession which hath the Sea on one side of it the Haven on another and the Sandhills towards the Land which when the wind is at South-west doth somewhat annoy it To prevent which the French have made divers Cuts and Channels through the Sands into which the Sea entring doth moisten and fix the Sand so as they are not so apt to fly And every Bastion is sprucely kept and covered within with green Turf Beyond the old Wall of the Town there are now great Works drawn which encompass so large a space of Ground that the Town is made bigger by half And in this part stands the English Nunnery and many handsom Buildings The new Fortifications are very large and the Bastion towards the North the most stately The Port is large and capable of receiving a gr●at number of Ships but at low water it is almost dry and there are so many Sands before it that at that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of it From Dunkirk we travelled by Land to Graveling where the Works are of Earth large and high the Church stately the Streets broad but the Houses low and at present not populous The Marquis de Bel fonds with the French and my Lord Ruterford with his Scotch and English came before Graveling upon the sixteenth of August 1658. and carried the place in twelve days time Don Christopher de Manguez yielding it upon the twenty eight on the same terms that it was delivered up by the French to the Spaniards 1652. From Graveling I came to Calais from whence setting Sail in the morning we came to Dover and the same day to London A JOURNEY FROM VENICE TO GENOA I Travelled some years since between Venice and Genoa through many Countries of early Civility seated in the middle of the temperate Zone in a fruitful and happy Climate affording plentifully all Necessaries for Life and through Countries which have not only been considerable for their copious production of Corn Fruit Silk Wine and Oyl but also for having been very fortunate in all Ages for bringing into the World Persons of great Fame and Renown who have rendred this Tract of Earth more than ordinarily remarkable for great Actions in all times The memory of which is still preserved not only in their Writings but also in their splendid Buildings and Antiquities though no parts have tasted more deeply of the dangerous variety of fortune these having suffered the frequent Incursions of many fierce and warlike Nations Having therefore formerly enjoyed such variety of observable Objects I could not remember this Journey without some considerable satisfaction especially having at the same time had the good luck to travel a great part of it with my worthy friends Sir William Trumbull Mr. Soames Dr. Palman Dr. James and Mr. Dashwood which makes me bold upon the opportunity of this second Impression to add further this short Account We passed from Venice to Padoa by water up the stream of the pleasant River Brent having all day long Houses of Pleasure and well built Palaces on each hand of us We entered this River near Lizafusina five Miles from Venice where formerly a Wheel or Engine was placed to convey the Vessels into the River The Venetians having long since stopped up the entrance of the Brenta lest that by the continual Descent of the Water the Stream and Channel might be diminished lost or altered and the passages for their Vessels rendred dangerous or inconvenient but this is otherwise contrived at present and four large Locks or Sostegni are made use of both to keep up the water and to facilitate the passage of the Vessels These are placed at Stra Dolo Mira and Moranzan and are very remarkable considering that the River in these places is locked up and the Vessels which are to pass are brought in between great Gates and the water let in or out as they have occasion to pass up or down the River The landing-place at Padoa is handsomly set off with stone steps continued for a long space along the side of the River after the manner of the landing-place at Ghent and some other elegant Cities of the Low Countries The outward Wall is strong being well fortified according to the Modern Rules of Fortification in the time of Leonardo Loredaro Duke of Venice and to render