for the whole Empire giuing to those Captaines that serued here many Ensignes of great honor yea Claudius gaue Plantius the first Prefect of that Prouince the right hand as he accompanyed him in his Triumph and his owne Triumph of Britaine was set out with such magnificence that the Prouinces brought in golden Crownes of great waight the Gouernours commanded to attend and the very Captâ—ines permitted to be present at the same A Nauall Coronet was fixed vpon apinnacle of his Pallace Arches and Trophees were raysed in Rome and himselfe on his aged knees mounted the staires into the Capitoll supported by his two sonnes in Law so great a ioy conceiued he in himselfe for the Conquest of some small portion of Britaine ENGLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION CHAPTER II. THE Saxons glory now neere to expire by his appointment who holdeth both times and Kingdomes in his all ordering hand their owne Swords being the Instruments and the Danes the maules that beat their beautifull Diadem into pieces the Normans a stirring Nation neyther expected nor much feared vnder the leading of William their Duke and encouragement of the Romane Bishop an vsuall promoter here of broken titles made hither sodainly into England who in one onely battell with the title of his sword and slaughter or Herold set the Emperiall Crowne thereof vpon his owne head which no sooner was done but the English went downe and the Normans lording it became Owners of those Cities which themselues neuer built possessed those Vineyards which they neuer planted dranke of those Wells which they neuer had digged and inhabitted those houses filled with riches for which they neuer had laboured for they found it to be as the land whereupon the Lord set his eye euen from the beginning to the end of the yeare not onely drinking water of the raine of heauen but hauing also riuers of waters and fountaines in her valleyes and without all scarsitie whose stones are yron and out of whose mountaines is digged brasse This made them more resolute at first to settle themselues in this fairest and fruitfullest part of the Iland the Conquerour vsing all policie both Martiall and Ciuill to plant his posteritie here for euer How he found the Land gouerned we shewed in the Heptarchy but his restlesse thoughts were not contented with conquering the Nation and their Land vnlesse he also ouercame their very Customes Lawes and Language 2 Touching the distribution of the Kingdome whereas other Kings before him made vse of it chiefly for the good of the people and better ministring of Iustice he made vse of it to know the wealth of his Subiects and to enrich his Coffers for he caused a description to be made of all England how much land euery one of his Barons possessed how many Knights fees how many Plow lands how many in villenage how many head of beasts yea how much money euery man from the greatest to the least did possesse and what rents might be made of entry mans possession the Booke of which inquisition yet in the Exchequer was called Domesday for the generalitie of that Iudgement on all the Land Whereunto we may adde his other distribution of this Land worse then any former when thrusting the English out of their possessions he distributed their inheritances to his Souldiers yet so that all should be held of the King as of the onely true Lord and possessor 3 For the Lawes by which he meant to gouerne he held one excellent rule and purpose which was that a People ought to be ruled by Lawes written and certaine for otherwise new Iudges would still bring new Iudgements and therefore he caused twelue to be chosen out of euery Countie which should on their oath without inclining one way or other neither adding nor detracting open vnto him all their ancient Lawes and Customes By whose relation vnderstanding that three sorts of Lawes formerly were in the Land Merchenlage West Saxonlage Danelage he had preferred these last himselfe and people being anciently deriued from those Northerne people had not all the Barons bewayling to the King how grieuous it was for a Land to be iudged by those Lawes which they vnderstood not altered his resolute purpose yet in bringing in the strange formes of Norman Processe and pleading in the French tongue which continued till Edward the thirds time that grieuance was but slenderly preuented So likewise did he much alter the old Courts of Iustice where these Lawes should be ministred but whereas the ancient Kings of England according to Moses his example sate in person in the seate of Iustice to right the greater affayres of their Subiects as William Laâ—bert sheweth in King Alfred Edgar Canutus c. and proues out of the Kings Oath out of Bracton Britaine Saxon Lawes c. King William not onely continued this but besides erected some other Courts of Iustice as the Exchequer and certaine Courts and Sessions to be held foure times euery yeare appointing both Iudges some to heare causes others to whom appeales should be made but none from them and also Prefects to looke to good orders Those last Polydor calleth Iustices of Peace but their institution seemes to be farre later and no lesse is his errour on the other side in saying the Conquerour first instituted Sheriffes and the tryall by twelue men which were both ancienter 4 And because the Conquerour for honour of Bishops caused them to remoue from small obscure places to Cities of more renowne we haue therefore reserued to this last place that diuision of this Kingdome which is according to Iurisdiction Episcopall Formerly in the yeare of saluation 636 Honorius the fift Archbishop of Canterbury first diuided England into Parishes which at this day are contained vnder their seuerall Dioâ—â—sans and these againe vnder their two Metropolitanes Canterbury and Yorke in manner following CANTERBVRIE Bishoprickes Counties Parishes Canterbury Kent 257. Rochester 98. London Essex 623. Middlesex Hertford-shire part Lincolne Lincoln-shire 1255. Leicester-shire Huntington Bedford-shire Buckingham-shire Hertford-shire part Chichester Hertford-shire 250. Suffex Winchester Hant-shire 362. Surrey Wight Isle Gernesey Isle Iersey Isle Salisbury Wilt-shire 248. Bark-shire Exester 〈◊〉 shire 604. Cornewall Bath and Wells Sommerset-shire 388. Gloucester Gloucester-shire 267. Worcester Worcester-shire 241. Lichfield and Couentry Warwicke-shire 557. Warwicke-shire part Stafford-shire Derby-shire Shrop-shire part Hereford Shrop-shire part 313. Hereford-shire Ely Cambridge-shire 141. Ely Isle Norwich Norfolke 1121. Suffolke Oxford Oxford-shire 195. Peterborow Northamton 293. Rutland-shire Bristow Dorset-shire 236. Glamorgan Landaffe Monmouth-shire 177. Brecknock-shire Radnor-shire S. Dauid Pembroke-shire 308. Caermarden Bangor Caernaruon-shire 107. Anglesey Isle Merioneth-shire Denbigh-shire S. Asaph Denbigh-shire part 121. Flint shire part YORKE Yorke Yorke-shire 581. Nottingham-shire Chester Chesâ—â—re 256. Richmond-shire Cumberland part â—anca-shire Flint part Carlile Cumberland part 93. Westmorland Durham Durham 135. Northumberland Sodor Man Iland 17. Totall Bishoprickes 27. Parishes 9285. 5 To speake nothing of these twentie-eight Flamins the Priests of Idolatry and the
impeach his designes and further at Stanes a Maire-stone once stood for a marke of Iurisdiction that London had so farre vpon Thamesis 7 Which Citie is more ancient then any true record beareth fabuled from Brute Troynouant from Lud Ludstone But by more credible Writers Tacitus Ptolemy and Antonine Londinium by Aminianâ—â— Mercellinus for her successiue prosperitie Augusta the greatest title that can be giuen to any by Britaines Londayn by Strangers Londra and by vs London This Citie doth shew as the Cedars among other trees being the seat of the British Kings the chamber of the English the modell of the Land and the Mart of the world for thither are brought the silke of Asia the spices from Africa the Balmes from Grecia and the riches of both the Indies East and West no Citie standing so long in same nor any for diuine and politicke gouernment may with her be compared Her walls were first set by great Constantine the first Christian Emperour at the suit of his mother Qu Helen reared with rough stone and British Bricke three English miles in compasse thorow which are now made seauen most faire gates besides three other passages for entrance Along the Thamesis this wall at first ranged and with two gates opened the one Doure-gate now Dowgate and the other Billinsgate a receptacle for Ships In the midst of this wall was set a mile-marke as the like was in Rome from whence were measured their stations for carriage or otherwise the same as yet standeth and hath beene long knowne by the name of London Stone Vpon the East of this Citie the Church of S. Peters is thought to be the Cathedrall of Restitus the Christians Bishops See who liued in the raigne of Great Constantine but since S. Pauls in the West part from the Temple of Diana assumed that dignitie whose greatnesse doth exceed any other at this day and spires so high that twice it hath beene consumed by lightning from heauen Besides this Cathedrall God is honoured in one hundred twentie one Churches more in this Citie that is ninetie six within the wals sixteene without but within the Liberties and nine more in her Suburbs and in Fâ—z Stephens time thirteene Conuents of religious Orders It is diuided into 26 Wards gouerned by so many graue Aldermen a Lord Maior and two Sherifs the yearely choice whereof was granted them by Patent from King Iohn in whose time also a Bridge of stone was made ouer Thames vpon nineteene Arches for length breadth beautie and building the like againe not found in the world 8 This London as it were disdaning bondage hath set her selfe on each side far without the walls and hath lefther West-gate in the midst from whence with continuall buildings still affecting greatnesse she hath continued her streets vnto a Kings Palace and ioyned a second Citie to her selfe famous for the Seat and Sepulchre of our Kings and for the Gates of Iustice that termely there are opened onely once a Bishops See whose title died with the man No walls are set about this Citie and those of London are left to shew rather what it was then what it is Whose Citizens as the Lacedemonians did doe impute their strength in their men and not in their wals how strong toeuer Or else for their multitude cannot be circulated but as another Ierusalem is inhabited without walls as Zachary said The wealth of this Citie as Isay once spake of Nilus growes from the Reuenewes and haruest of her South-bounding Thames whose traffique for merchandizing is like that of Tyrus whereof Ezekiel speakes and stands in abundance of Siluer Iron Tinne and Lead c. And from London her channell is nauigable straitned along with medowing borders vntill she taketh her full libertie in the German Seas Vpon this Thamesis the Ships of Tharsis seeme to ride and the Nauy that rightly is termed the Lady of the Sea spreads her saile Whence twice with luckie successe hath beene accomplished the compassing of the vniuersall Globe This Riuer Canutus laying siege against London sought by digging to diuert and before him the Danes had done great harmes in this Citie yet was their State recouered by King Elfred and the Riuer kept her olde course notwithstanding that cost In the times of the Normans some ciuill broiles haue beene attempted in this Citie as in the dayes of King Iohn whereinto his Barons entred and the Tower yeelded vnto Lewis And againe Wat Tyler herein committed outragious cruelties but was worthily struck downe by the Maior and slaine in Smithfield This Cities graduation for Latitude is the degree 51. 45. minutes and in Longitude 20. degrees 39. minutes 9 In this Countie at Barnet vpon Easter-day a bloudy battell was fought betwixt Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth wherein were slaine one Marques one Earle three Lords and with them ten thousand Englishmen ESSEX CHAPTER XV. ESSEX by the Normans exsessa and by the vulgar Essex is a Countie large in compasse very populous and nothing inferiour to the best of the Land 2 The â—orme thereof is somewhat Circular excepting the East part which shooteth her selfe with many Promontories into the Sea and from Horsey Iland to Haidon in the West the broadest part of the Shire are by measure fortie miles and the length from East-Haâ—â— vpon Thamesis in the South to Sâ—urmere vpon the Riuer Stow in the North are thirtie-fiue miles the whole in Circumference one hundred fortie sixe miles 3 It lyeth bounded vpon the North with Suffolke and Cambridge-Shires vpon the West with Hertford and Middlesex vpon the South by Thamesis is parted from Kent and the East-side thereof is altogether washed with the German Sea 4 The ayre is temperate and pleasant onely towards the waters somewhat aguish the soile is rich and fruitfull though in some places sandy and barren yet so that it neuer frustrates the husbandmans hopes or fils not the hands of her haruest-labourers but in some part so fertile that after three yeares glebe of Saffron the Land for 18. more will yeeld plentie of Barley without either dung or other fatning earth 5 Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes were by Caesar called the Trinobants of whom in the former Chapter we haue spoken and in our History shall speake more at large But this name perished with the age of the Empire the Saxons presently framed a new and with Hertford and Middlesex made it their East-Saxons Kingdome vntill that Egbert brought this and the whole into an entire and absolute Monarchy the Daues after them laid so sore for this Prouince that at â—eamfleet and Hauenet now Shobery they fortified most strongly and at Barklow besides the hils mounted for their burials the Danewort with her red beryes so plentifully grow that it is held and accounted to spring from the bloud of the Danes which in that place was spilt and the hearb as yet is called from them the Danes-bloud neither yet were they quelled to surcease that quarrell but at Ashdowne
England Wales Scotland and Ireland Described and Abridged with the History Relation of things worthy memory from a farr Larger Voulume Done by John Speed Anno Cum priuilegio And are to bee sould by Georg Humble at the White-horse in popeshead Alley A Catalogue of all the Shires Citties Bishoprickes Market Townes Castles Parishes Rivers Bridges 〈◊〉 Forrests and Parkes conteyned in every particuler shire of the Kingdom of England Shires Cities Bishoprickâ— Mark Townes Castles Parish Church Rivers Bridges Chases Forrests Parkes Kente 02 02 17 08 398 06 14 00 00 23 Sussex 01 01 18 01 312 02 10 00 04 33 Surrie 00 00 06 00 140 01 07 00 0 1 4 17 Middlesex 02 02 03 00 073 01 03 01 00 04 Hâ—nt-shire 01 01 18 05 248 04 31 00 04 22 〈◊〉 shire 00 00 18 06 248 04 29 01 02 12 Wâ—lt shire 01 01 21 01 304 05 31 01 09 29 Somerset shire 03 02 29 01 385 09 45 00 02 18 Devoâ— shire 01 01 40 03 394 23 106 00 00 23 Corâ—â—all 00 00 23 06 161 07 31 00 00 09 Essex 01 00 21 01 415 07 28 00 01 46 Hartford shire 00 00 18 00 120 01 24 00 00 23 Oxford shire 01 01 10 00 208 03 26 00 04 09 Buckingham sh 00 00 11 00 185 02 14 00 00 15 Barck shire 00 00 11 01 140 03 07 00 0 3 4 13 Glocester shire 01 01 20 01 280 12 22 01 02 19 Suffolk 00 00 28 01 464 02 32 00 00 27 Norfolk 01 01 26 00 625 03 15 00 00 00 Rutlande 00 00 02 00 047 00 01 00 00 04 Northampton sh 01 01 11 02 326 05 24 00 03 23 〈◊〉 shir 00 00 05 00 078 01 05 00 00 0◠〈◊〉 shirâ— 00 00 10 00 116 01 06 00 00 12 〈◊〉 shire 00 01 06 00 163 01 07 00 00 05 〈◊〉 shire 01 01 12 01 158 07 21 01 00 16 〈◊〉 shire 00 00 11 02 200 01 10 00 02 13 〈◊〉 shire 01 00 12 05 130 13 10 01 01 38 Worcester shire 01 01 07 03 152 05 13 01 02 16 Shrop shire 00 00 13 13 170 18 13 00 07 27 Hereford shire 01 01 08 07 176 13 11 01 02 08 Lincolne shire 01 01 26 02 630 09 1â— 00 00 13 Nottingham sh 00 00 11 00 168 0â— 17 00 01 18 Darby shire 00 00 08 04 106 13 21 00 01 34 Cheshire 01 01 09 03 068 09 19 00 02 18 York shire 01 01 46 14 563 36 62 04 08 72 Lancasshire 00 00 08 06 036 33 24 00 01 30 Durham 01 01 05 04 062 11 20 00 â—0 21 Westmoreland 00 00 04 06 026 08 15 00 02 1â— Cumberland 01 01 08 15 058 20 33 00 03 08 Northumbrland 00 00 11 12 040 21 16 00 01 0â— Moâ—mouth 00 00 06 07 142 15 14 01 00 08 Glamâ—rgan 00 01 07 12 151 16 06 00 00 0â— Radnor 00 00 04 05 043 â—3 05 00 03 â—â— Brecknok 00 00 03 04 070 17 13 00 â—â— â—â— Cardigan 00 00 04 00 077 26 09 00 0â— â—â— Carmartâ—in 00 00 06 04 081 20 16 00 0â— â—â— Pembrok 00 01 06 05 142 06 07 00 0â— â—â— Montgomery 00 00 06 03 042 28 06 00 00 â—â— Meriâ—â—idth 00 00 03 02 034 26 07 00 00 00 Denbigh 00 00 03 03 053 24 06 00 00 06 Fluit shire 00 01 03 04 024 04 02 00 0â— â—â— Anglesey 00 00 03 00 083 08 02 00 00 00 Caerâ—arvon 00 01 05 03 073 17 06 00 00 00 THE GENERALL OF GREAT BRITAINE CHAPTER I. THE State of euery Kingdome well managed by prudent gouernment seemes to me to represent a Humane Body guided by the soueraigntie of the Reasonable Soule the Country and Land it selfe representing the one the Actions and State-affaires the other Sith therefore the excellencies of the whole are but vnperfectly laid open where either of these Parts is defectiue our intendment is to take a view as well of the outward Body and Lineaments of the now-flourishing British Monarchy the Ilands Kingdomes and Prouinces thereof in actuall possession for with others no lesse iustly claimed in the Continent we meddle not which shall be the content of our first or Chorographicall Tome containing the foure first Bookes of this our Theater as also of its successiue gouernment and vitall actions of State which shall be our second or Historicall Tome containing the fiue last Bookes And here first we will by example of the best Anatomists propose to the view the whole Body and Monarchy intire as farre as conueniently we could comprise it and after will dissect and lay open the particular Members Veynes and Ioynts I meane the Shires Riuers Cities and Townes with such things as shall occurre most worthy our regard and most behouefull for our vse 3 It is by experience found to lie included from the degree fiftie and thirtie scruples of Latitude and for Longitude extended from the 13. degree and 20. minutes vnto the 22. and 50. minutes according to the obseruation of Mercator It hath Britaine Normandy and other parts of France vpon the South the Lower Germany Denmarke and Norway vpon the East the Isles of Orkney and the Deucaledonian Sea vpon the North the Hebrides vpon the West and from it all other Ilands and Ilets which doe scatteredly inuiron it and shelter themselues as it were vnder the shadow of Great Albion another name of this famous Iland are also accounted Britannish and are therefore here described altogether 4 Britaine thus seated in the Ocean hath her prayses not onely in the present sense and vse of her commodities but also in those honorable Eulogies which the learnedst of Antiquaries hath collected out of the noblest Authors that he scarce seemeth to haue left any gleanings neither will 〈◊〉 transplant them out of his flourishing Gardens but as necessitie compels sith nothing 〈…〉 or otherâ—â—â— beâ—â—â— said 5 That Britaine therefore is the Seas High Admirall is famously knowne and the Fortunate Island supposed by some as Robert of Anesbury doth shew whose ayre is more temperate saith Caesar then France whose Soile bringeth forth all graine in abundance saith Tacitus whose Seas produce orient Pearle saith Suetonius whose Fields are the seat of a Summer Queene saith Orpheus her wildest parts free from wilde beasts saith the ancient Paâ—â—gyricke and her chiefe Citie worthily named Augusta as saith Ammianus So as we may truely say with the royall Psalmist Our lines are fallen in pleasant places yea we haue a faire inheritance Which whatsoeuer by the goodnesse of God and industry of man it is now yet our English Poet hath truely described vnto vs the first face thereof thus The Land which warre-like Britaines now possesse And therein haue their mightie Empire raisde In ancient times was saluage Wildernesse Vnpeopled vnmanur'd vnprou'd vnpraisde 6 And albeit the Ocean doth at this present thrust it selfe betweene Doue and Callis diuiding them with a deepe and vast entrenchment so that Britaine thereby
wooddy and fruitfull yet so as the hand of the Manurer must neuer be idle nor the purse of the Farmer neuer fast shut especially of them that are farre from the Sea whence they fetch a sand with charge and much trauell which being spread vpon the face of the earth bettereth the leannesse thereof for graine and giueth life to the Glebe with great efficacy 4 As Cornwall so this hath the same commodities that arise from the Seas and being more inlanded hath more commodious Hauens for Shâ—ppings entercourse among whom Totnes is famous for Brutes first entrance if Geffry say true or if Hauâ—llan the Poet tooke not a Poeticall libertie when speaking of Brute he wrote thus The Gods did guide his sayle and course the winds were at command And Totnes was the happie shoare where first he came on land But with more credit and lamentable euent the Danes at Teigne-mouth first entred for the inuasion of this Land about the yeare of Christ 787. vnto whom Brightrik King of the West-Saxons sent the Steward of his house to know their intents whom resistantly they slew yet were they forced backe to their Ships by the Inhabitants though long they stayed not but eagerly pursued their begun enterprises With more happie successe hath Plimouth set forth the purchasers of same and stopped the entrance of Englands Inuaders as in the Raigne of that eternized Queene the mirrour of Princes Elizabeth of euerlasting memory for from this Port Sir Francis Drake that potent man at Sea setting forth Anno 1577 in the space of two yeares and ten moneths did compasse the circle of the earth by Sea And the Lord Charles Howard Englands high Admirall did not onely from hence impeach the entrance of the proud inuincible Spanish Nauy intending inuasion and subuersion of State but with his Bullets so signed their passage that their sides did well shew in whose hands they had beene as seales of their owne shame and his high honour 5 The commodities of this Shire consist much in Wools and Clothings where the best and finest Kersies are made in the Land Corne is most plenteous in the fruitfull Vallies and Cattle spreading vpon the topped Hils Sea Fish and Fowle exceedingly abundant Veynes of Lead yea and some of Siluer in this Shire are found and the Load-stone not the least for vse and esteeme from the Rocks vpon Dart-more hath beene taken Many fresh Springs doe bubble from the Hils in this Prouince which with a longing desire of Socretie search out their passage till they meete and conjoyne in the Vallies and gathering still strength with more branches lastly grow bodyed able to beare Ships into the Land and to lodge them of great burthen in their Bosomes or Fals whereof Tamar Taue and Ex are the fairest and most commodious 6 Vpon which last the chiefe Citie and Shire-Towne of this Countie is seated and from that Riuer hath her name Excester this Citie by Ptolemie is called Isâ—a by the 〈…〉 Emperour Isâ—a Danmoniorum and by the We so 〈◊〉 It is pleasantly seated vpon the gentle â—scent of an hill so stately for building so rich with 〈…〉 strangers that a man can desire nothing but 〈…〉 The walls of this Citie first built by King 〈…〉 but towards the Ex rangeth almost in a straight line hauing six Gates for entrance and many 〈…〉 betwixt whose compasse containeth about fifteene hundred paces vpon the East part of this Citie standeth a Castle called Rugemont sometimes the Palace of the West-Saxon Kings and after them of the Earles of Cornwall whose prospect is pleasant vnto the 〈…〉 magnificent Cathedrall Church founded by King Athelstan also in the honour of S. Peter and by Edward the Confessor made the Bishops See which the remoued from 〈…〉 in this Countie vnto the Citie of Excester as saith the priuate History of that place whose â—â—â—apidations the reuerend Father in God William now Bishop of the Diocesse with great cost hath repaired whom I may not name without a most thankfull remembrance for the great benefits receiued by his carefull prouidence toward me and mine This Citie was so strong and so well stored of Britaines that they held out against the Saxons for 465. yeares after their first entrance and was not absolutely 〈◊〉 vntill Athelstan became Monarch of the whole who then peopled it with his Saxons and 〈◊〉 the beautie thereof with many faire buildings but in the times of the Danish desolations this Citie with the rest felt their destroying hands for in the yeare 875. it was by them fore afflicted spoyled and shaken and that most grieuously by Swane in the yeare of Christ Iesus 1003. who razed it downe from East to West so that scarcely had it gotten breath before William the bastard of Normandy besieged it against whom the Citizens with great manhood serued till a part of the wall fell downe of it selfe and that by the hand of Gods prouidence saith mine Author since when it hath beene three times besieged and with valiant resistance euer defended The first was by Hugh Courtney Earle of Deuenshire in the Ciuill broyles betwixt Lancaster and Yorke then by Perbin Warbeck that counterfeited Richard Duke of Yorke and lastly by the Cornish Rebels wherein although the Citizens were grieuously pinched with scarsitie yet continued they their faithfull allegeance vnto King Edward the sixt and at this day flourisheth in tranquillitie and wealth being gouerned by a Major twentie-foure Brethren with a Recorder Towne-Clerke and other Officers their Attendants This Cities graduation is set in the degree of Latitude from the North-Pole 50. and 45. scruples and for Longitude from the West to the degree 16. and 25. scruples Neither is Ioseph that excellent Poet whose birth was in this Citie the least of her Ornaments whose Writings bare so great credit that they were divulged in the Germane language vnder the name of Cornelius Nepos The like credit got Crediton in her birth-child Winefred the Apostle of the Hassians Thuringers and Frisians of Germany which were conuerted by him vnto the Gospell and knowledge of Christ 7 Places memorable in this Countie remaining for signes of Battles or other antiquities are these vpon Exmore certaine Monuments of Anticke-worke are erected which are stones pitched in order some triangle-wise and some in round compasse these no doubt were trophies of victories there obtained eyther by the Romans Saxons or Danes and with Danish letters one of them is inscribed giuing direction to such as should trauell that way Hublestowe likewise neere vnto the mouth of Tawe was the buriall place of Hubba the Dane who with his Brother Hungar had harried the English in diuers parts of the Land but lastly was there encountred with and slaine by this Shires Inhabitants and vnder a heape of copped stones interred and the Banner Reasen there and then taken that had so often beene spread in the Danes quarrell and wherein they reposed no small confidence for successe 8 A double dignitie remaineth in
the other part of the I le This place is called S. Michaelin the Vale where in former times stood a Priory or a Couent of religious persons the ruines whereof are at this day to be seene 8 The gouernment of this I le in nature and forme resembles the other of Iersey of whom shall be said The people in their Originall and Language alike also but in their customes and conditions they come neerer the ciuill fashions of the English Other matters of moment I finde not worthy to be recorded It hath ten Parishes and one Market-Towne being also a Hauen and is called S. Peters Port built close by the Peere and Castle Cornet IERSEY THe two Ilands Iersey and Garnsey being the onely remaines of the Dukedome of Normandie that in former times many yeares together was in the possession and vnder the command of the Kings of England annexing thereunto a large Territory and glorious title to the Crowne are both seated in the Sea called Mare Britannicum the Ocean parting them a good distant asunder and are now both adiuncts and within the circuit of Hampshire For the first being the Isle of Iersey it lyeth vpon the British Sea hauing on the North parts the coasts of Hampshire and on the South the Country of Normandy 2 This Iland is long not much vnlike the fashion of an Egge It containes in length from Sentwon Poole vpon the West to Mount Orguil Castle on the East ten miles and in bredth from Dubon point to Plymount-bay six miles the whole circuit of the Iland being thirtie eight miles It is distant from a little Iland called Alderney about foure leagues It was in old time called Caesaria whether from Iulius Octanius or any the other Caesars that followed is vnknowne But the French-men haue by corruption of speech long time called it Iersey 3 It is a very delightsome and healthfull Iland and giueth a pleasant aspect vnto the Seas It lyeth Southward not farre from a craggie ridge of rocks which is much feared of the Mariners and makes the passage that way very dangerous howbeit it serues for a forcible defence against Pirats or any strangers that attempt inuasion and they are termed Casquets 4 The Soile is very fertile bringing forth store of Corne and Cattle but especially of sheepe that are of reasonable bignesse the most of them bearing foure hornes a peece Their wooll very fine and white of which the Inhabitants make their Iersey stockings which are ordinarily to be had in most parts of England and yeeld a great commoditie vnto the Iland 5 The first originall of the Inhabitants sprung either from the Normans or Britaines or both They speake French though after a corrupt manner and haue continued their names language customes and Country without any or little intermixture these many hundred yeares hauing beene vnder the jurisdiction of the English euer since the vntimely and vnnaturall death of Robert Duke of Normandie eldest sonne to William the Conquerour 6 The people of this Country liue very pleasantly as well by the profits of the Land as the helpes and furtherances of the Sea that yeelds vnto them and especially in Summer season great store of fish but principally Conger and Lobsters the greatest and fattest vpon the coast of England Wood is very scant for their best fuell is Turffe some Coale they haue brought vnto them but it is very deare straw furre and ferne seruing their ordinary vses The middle part of the Iland hath many prety Hils rising in it yeelding a delightfull obiect vnto the vallies that receiue from one another a mutuall pleasure 7 The Gouernour of the I le is the Captaine thereof who appointeth certaine Officers vnder him the principall of whom carrieth the name and title of a Bailiffe that in ciuill causes hath the assistance of twelue Iurats to determine of differences and minister Iustice in criminall matters seuen in matters of reason and conscience fiue Their twelue are chosen out of the twelue Parishes so that no man goeth further to complaine then to his owne Iurate in ordinary Controuersies but matters of moment and difficultie are determined before the Bailiffe in a generall meeting THE DESCRIPTION OF WALES CHAPTER I. ANtiquitie hath auouched that the whole Isle of Britaine was diuided into three parts The first and fairest lay contained within the French Seas the Riuers of Seuerne Dee and Humber called then â—â—oyger which name yet it retaineth in Wâ—â—sh in English called England The second part occupied all the land Northward from Humber to the Orkney Sea called by the Latines Mare Caledonium or Deucaledonium now famously knowne by the name of Scotland The third part was this lying betwixt the Irish Seas the Riuers Seuerne and Dee and was called Cambria which name doth yet continue with them though we the English call it Wales as the people Welshmen which is strange and strangers for so at this day the dwellers of Tyroll in the higher Germany whence our Saxons are said to haue come doe name the Italian their next neighbour a Welshman and his language Welsh 2 This opinion Verstegan doth altogether contradict rather iudging by the ancient Tentonicks tongue which the Germans spake and wherein the G. is pronounced for W. that these Saxons called them Gallish from the Goâ—les whence their originall proceeded rather then Wallish from strangers which he thinketh could not be considering their habitations â—o neere vnto them and that the like was in vse he proueth by the words of French Gardian for Wardian Corangalles for 〈◊〉 yea and Galles for Wales calling our most famous Edward Prince of Galles not Prince of Wales insomuch that the County of Lombardy bordering along vpon the Germans was of them called Gallia Cis-alpina and at this day Welsh-land So likewise doe the Netherlanders call the Inhabitants of Henalâ— and Artois Wallen or Wallons and some parts of Brabanâ— and Flanderâ— Welsh-Brabanâ— and Welsh-Flanders and all because of the language or lineage of the Gaules Neither do the meere Natiues of Wales know any other name of their Country then Cambria of themselues then Cambri or Cumri or of their language then Cambraoc But leauing this opinion free to his affection we will proceed 3 Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britaines all the plaine and champion Country ouer the Riuer d ee and especially Offa King of Mercia made their limits straiter by making a ditch of great bredth depth to be a Meere betwixt his Kingdome and Wales This ditch is in many places to be seene at this day and beares the name of Clawâ— Offa that is Offaes Ditch The Country betweene it and England is commonly called the Marches and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen especially in North-Wales euen to the Riuer Dee This admirable Trench began at Bassingwerke in Flintshire betweene Chester and Ruthlan and ran along the hils to the South Sea a little from Bristow
the longest against the Romanes and their necks not brought vnder the yoke of bondage before the dayes of King Edward the first since when they haue attempted to east off their subiection to the English vpon whose stirres raised by Owin Glendouer who hauing beene a fauorite of King Richard the second and discontented by King Henry the fourth in a quarrell with the Lord Grey of Ruthin that intruded vpon his demaines quarrelled with the King and entred into open rebellion and confederacie with all other his rebels drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side in hope to haue had Princes restored of their owne bloud and he maintained the same with wonderfull pride policie and obstinacie for a long time vntill his consederates followers and fauorates and his owne courage credit and maintenance were brought so low by that powerfull King that in the end he perished for very want of food 5 Their Townes are not many neither those that they haue of any stately buildings whereof Bala â—olgethe and Harlech are the Markeâ—◠〈…〉 in the North-east of this Countie in the Welsh 〈◊〉 in English Piâ—â—â—le-meane a great poole of water doth drowne at least eight score Acres of ground whose 〈…〉 the high land flouds though neuer so great cannot 〈…〉 bigger by their 〈…〉 but if the 〈◊〉 beâ—â—oubled with ouer great blasts and tempests of wiâ—des she in as great a rage riseth and passeth her bankes as if she would encounter that enemy in fight Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretie sharpe streame entreth and thorow the same glideth without any mixture of the same water as the Inhabitants beleeue more strongly conceited in their opinion for that the Salmon vsually taken in Dee is neuer found in that Poole and the fish called Guimad bred in that Meart neuer is seene in the Riuer Dee South thence neere Dolgelhr in a lower hill a great Rampire of stone and compasse is seene and hath beene some fortification or defence in warre which whilst we were curious to finde out some instructions thereof by report this onely we learned that it was called Caddoryrita Dren according to the name of her neighbour and farre higher hill 6 Vpon the West and Sea-shore of this Shire Harlech a Market and Major Towne standeth bleake enough and barren but onely for Fowle and Fish houses not many neither curiously built wherein standeth a little Chappell decayed and without vse in which lyeth buryed Sir Richard Thimblebye an English Knight who for the delight he tooke in that game remoued his abode from a farre better soyle Here also standeth a most strong and beautifull Castle mounted vpon a hill and with a double Bulwarke walled about commanding the Sea and passage of entrance of such as seeke to inuade the Goast And surely a great pitie it is to see so faire a worke fall to decay the Constable whereof by Patent is euer the Major of this Towne neere vnto which are two great Inlets of Seas which at low water may be passed vpon the Sands with Guides Vpon whose shore as vpon the Sea-coasts in this Countie abundance of Herrings are caught for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the yeare by many people from diuers Countries DENBIGH-SHIRE CHAPTER XI DENBIGH-SHIRE called in Welsh Sire Denbigh retyring more from the Sea within the Countrey on this side of the Riuer Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the Riuer Dee on the North first the Sea for a small space and then Plint-shire encompasseth it on the West Caernaruon and Merioneth-shire on the East Cheshire and Shrop-shire and on the South Mountgomery-shire 2 The forme thereof is long growing wider still towards the North-west and narrower towards the East It is in length from East to West one and thirtie miles and in bredth from North to South seauenteene miles in the whole circuit and circumference one hundred and fourteene miles 3 The ayre is very wholesome and pleasant yet bleake enough as exposed to the windes on all sides and the high hilles wherewith it is in many places enuitoned long retaining the congealed snow The tops whereof in the Summer time are the haruest-mens Almanacks by the rising of certaine vapours thereon in the mornings and foreshew a faire day ensuing 4 The soyle is but barren towards the West part yet the middle where it lieth flat in a valley is most fertile The East side when it is once past the valley findeth Nature to be a very sparing niggard of her sauours but next vnto Dee it feeleth a more liberall extent of her blessings The West part is but here and there inhabited and mounteth vp more then the other with bare and hungry hilles yet the leanesse of the soyle where the hils settle any thing flatting hath beene now a good while begun to be ouercome by the diligent paines and carefull industry of the husbandmen for they paring away the vpper coat of the earth into certaine Turffes with a broad kinde of spade pile them vp artificially on heapes and fire them so as being turned into ashes and throwne vpon the ground so pared they fructifie the hungry barrennesse and sterilitie of soyle and make the fields bring forth a kinde of Rie or Anull-corne in such plentie as is hardly to be beleeued 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Countrey were the Ordouices who being also named Ordeâ—ices or Ordoâ—icae a puissant and couragious people by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place and tooke heart euen of the soyle it selfe for they continued longest free from the yoke both of Roman and also of English dominion They were not subdued by the Romans before the dayes of the Emperor Domitian for then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation nor brought vnder the command of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first but liued a long time in a lawlesse kinde of libertie as bearing themselues bold vpon their owne magnanimitie and the strength of the Country 6 The Mountaines of this County yeeld sufficiency of Neat Sheepe and Goats The Vallies in most places are very plenteous of Corne especially Eastward on this side betwixt the Riuers of Alen and Dee but the more Westerly part is heathy and altogether barren The heart of the Shire shewes it selfe beneath the hilles in a beautifull and pleasant Vale reaching seauenteene miles in length from South to North and fiue miles or thereabouts in bredth and lieth open onely toward the Sea It is enuironed on euery side with high hilles amongst which the highest is Moâ—llenlly on the top whereof is a warlike Fense with Trench and Rampier and a little fountaine of cleare water From these hilles the Riuer Cluyd resorts vnto this Vale and from the very spring-head increased with beckes and brookes doth part it in twaine running thorow the midst of it whereof in ancient time it was named Strat Cluyd for Mariamâ—s maketh mention of a King of the Strat Cluyd of
it gaue vnto the third It was founded by Henry the second finished by Edward the first and long after gaue harbour and entertainment to that noble but vnfortunate Prince Richard the second comming out of Ireland being within her walles a free and absolute King but no sooner without but taken prisoner by Henry Bullingbrooke Duke of Lancaster losing at that time his libertie and not long after his life This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53. 55. minutes in Longitude 17. For the Castle of Hawarden no record remaines of the first founder but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earles of Chester Howbeit their resistances did not so generally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications as in their Mountaines and Hils which in times of danger serued as naturall Bulwarkes and Defences vnto them against the force of enemies As was that which standeth in a certaine strait set about with woods neere vnto the Riuer Alen called Coles-hull that is Coles-hill where the English by reason of their disordered multitude not ranged close in good array lost the field and were defeated when King Henry the second had made as great preparation as might be to giue battle vnto the Welsh and the very Kings Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex who was Standard-bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance 8 This Country hath many shallow riuers in it but none of fame and note but d ee and Cluyde Howbeit there is a Spring not farre from Rudland Castle of great report and antiquitie which is termed Fons Sacer in English Holy-Well and is also commonly called S. Winefrids Well of whom antiquitie thus reporteth That Winefrid a Christian Virgin very faire and vertuous was doated vpon by a young lustfull Prince or Lord of the Country who not long able to rule his head-strong affections hauing many times in vaine attempted and tryed her chastitie both by rich gifts and large promises could not by any meanes obtaine his desires he therefore in a place of aduantage suddenly surprized and rauished her weake yet resisting body After the deed done the cruell Tyrant to stop her cries and acclamations slew her and cut off her head out of which place did suddenly arise a Spring that continueth to this day carrying from the Fountaine such a forcible streame and current as the like is not found in Christendome Ouer the head of the Spring there is built a Chappell of free stone with Pillars curiously wrought and engraued in the Chancell whereof and glasse window the picture of the Virgin is drawne together with the memoriall of her life and death To this Fountaine Pilgrims are accustomed to repaire in their zealous but blind deuotion and diuers others resort to bathe in holding firmely that the water is of much vertue There be many red stones in the bottome of this Well and much greene mosse growing vpon the sides the superstition of the people holding that those red spots in the stones were drops of the Ladies bloud which all the water in the Spring can neuer wash away and that the mosse about the wall was her haire which though some of it be giuen to euery stranger that comes yet it neuer wasteth But howsoeuer this be carried for truth by the tradition of time the mosse it selfe smels exceeding sweet There is also hard by Kilken a small village within this Countie a little Well of no great note that at certaine times riseth and falleth after the manner of Sea-tydes 9 In the South part of this Country diuided from the rest is a place in some written Coppies of Antonine called Bouium which we now terme Banchor first a Citie and afterwards a Monastery of famous memory and the first that is read of in the world wherein as Beda saith were a great number of Monkes and them diuided into seauen Companies euery one hauing his seuerall Ruler assigned None of these Companies had lesse then three hundred persons deuoted to prayer and to get liuing by their owne labour for themselues and the poore although it hath long since beene vtterly ruinate so as now there is scarce seene the face and outward shew of a dead Citie or Monastery It hath onely the names of two Gates remaining one standing a mile distant from another and betwixt which the Riuer Dee now runneth where are often times found many pieces of Romane Coyne and other tokens of antiquitie But of these shall be more mention made in the following History Another like Monastry but of lesser account stood in the Vale beneath Varis a little Citie placed the Romans in the confines of this Shire and Deabigh-shire and vpon the Ranke of Elwy and Cluyd This the Britaines call 〈◊〉 of the Riuer the Englishmen Asuph of the Founder and the Historiographers Asphensis It is more famouse for antiquitie then for building o◠brauery for about the yeare 560 Kentigein Bishop of Glas◠being fled 〈◊〉 out of Scotland placed here a Bishops See and erected a Monastry gathering together 66◠in a religious brotherhood whereof 300. that were vnlearned gaue themselues to husbandrie and to worke within the Monastery the rest to prayer and meditations When he returned into Scotland he ordained Asaph a godly and vpright man to be gouernous ouer this Monastery of whom it tooke the name and is called Saint Asaphs Another Monastry of great account was at Basingwarke in this County neere vnto which began that admirable Ditch drawne thence vnto the mouth of 〈◊〉 by King Offa the Tract whereof I haue expressed thorow this Shire and will further speake thereof in the following History ANGLESEY CHAPTER XIII ANGLESEY was in the time of the Romans called Mona by the Britaines Mon and Tir-Mon that is the Land of Mon of the ancient English-Saxons Moneg And at last after the Englishmen had by their sharpe and seuerall assaults brought it vnder their rules and became Lords thereof it was termed Anglesey as one would say The Englishmens Iland 2 For an Iland it is albeit it be seuered from the Continent of Britaine but with a small and narrow streight of the riuer Menai and on all other parts beaten vpon with the surging and troublous Irish Sea in which it lyeth somewhat square-wise not much different in length and breadth being where it reacheth out in length from Beau-marish Eastward to the vtmost Promontory West-ward which we call Holy-head twentie miles and in breadth from Llanbaderik North-ward to the point of Menai South-ward seauenteene miles the whole circuit or circumference amounting towards seauentie miles 3 The aire is reasonable gratefull and healthfull and not generally subiect to diseases excepting certaine Agues at some times which are occasioned by the sogs and misty exhalations which arise from the Sea called Mare Virginium with the which this Ile is encompassed 4 The Commodities that commend or rather beautifie this Country are in Corne and Cattle wherewith it not onely enricheth it selfe exceedingly