for the whole Empire giuing to those Captaines that serued here many Ensignes of great honor yea Claudius gaue Plantius the first Prefect of that Prouince the right hand as he accompanyed him in his Triumph and his owne Triumph of Britaine was set out with such magnificence that the Prouinces brought in golden Crownes of great waight the Gouernours commanded to attend and the very Captâ—ines permitted to be present at the same A Nauall Coronet was fixed vpon apinnacle of his Pallace Arches and Trophees were raysed in Rome and himselfe on his aged knees mounted the staires into the Capitoll supported by his two sonnes in Law so great a ioy conceiued he in himselfe for the Conquest of some small portion of Britaine ENGLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION CHAPTER II. THE Saxons glory now neere to expire by his appointment who holdeth both times and Kingdomes in his all ordering hand their owne Swords being the Instruments and the Danes the maules that beat their beautifull Diadem into pieces the Normans a stirring Nation neyther expected nor much feared vnder the leading of William their Duke and encouragement of the Romane Bishop an vsuall promoter here of broken titles made hither sodainly into England who in one onely battell with the title of his sword and slaughter or Herold set the Emperiall Crowne thereof vpon his owne head which no sooner was done but the English went downe and the Normans lording it became Owners of those Cities which themselues neuer built possessed those Vineyards which they neuer planted dranke of those Wells which they neuer had digged and inhabitted those houses filled with riches for which they neuer had laboured for they found it to be as the land whereupon the Lord set his eye euen from the beginning to the end of the yeare not onely drinking water of the raine of heauen but hauing also riuers of waters and fountaines in her valleyes and without all scarsitie whose stones are yron and out of whose mountaines is digged brasse This made them more resolute at first to settle themselues in this fairest and fruitfullest part of the Iland the Conquerour vsing all policie both Martiall and Ciuill to plant his posteritie here for euer How he found the Land gouerned we shewed in the Heptarchy but his restlesse thoughts were not contented with conquering the Nation and their Land vnlesse he also ouercame their very Customes Lawes and Language 2 Touching the distribution of the Kingdome whereas other Kings before him made vse of it chiefly for the good of the people and better ministring of Iustice he made vse of it to know the wealth of his Subiects and to enrich his Coffers for he caused a description to be made of all England how much land euery one of his Barons possessed how many Knights fees how many Plow lands how many in villenage how many head of beasts yea how much money euery man from the greatest to the least did possesse and what rents might be made of entry mans possession the Booke of which inquisition yet in the Exchequer was called Domesday for the generalitie of that Iudgement on all the Land Whereunto we may adde his other distribution of this Land worse then any former when thrusting the English out of their possessions he distributed their inheritances to his Souldiers yet so that all should be held of the King as of the onely true Lord and possessor 3 For the Lawes by which he meant to gouerne he held one excellent rule and purpose which was that a People ought to be ruled by Lawes written and certaine for otherwise new Iudges would still bring new Iudgements and therefore he caused twelue to be chosen out of euery Countie which should on their oath without inclining one way or other neither adding nor detracting open vnto him all their ancient Lawes and Customes By whose relation vnderstanding that three sorts of Lawes formerly were in the Land Merchenlage West Saxonlage Danelage he had preferred these last himselfe and people being anciently deriued from those Northerne people had not all the Barons bewayling to the King how grieuous it was for a Land to be iudged by those Lawes which they vnderstood not altered his resolute purpose yet in bringing in the strange formes of Norman Processe and pleading in the French tongue which continued till Edward the thirds time that grieuance was but slenderly preuented So likewise did he much alter the old Courts of Iustice where these Lawes should be ministred but whereas the ancient Kings of England according to Moses his example sate in person in the seate of Iustice to right the greater affayres of their Subiects as William Laâ—bert sheweth in King Alfred Edgar Canutus c. and proues out of the Kings Oath out of Bracton Britaine Saxon Lawes c. King William not onely continued this but besides erected some other Courts of Iustice as the Exchequer and certaine Courts and Sessions to be held foure times euery yeare appointing both Iudges some to heare causes others to whom appeales should be made but none from them and also Prefects to looke to good orders Those last Polydor calleth Iustices of Peace but their institution seemes to be farre later and no lesse is his errour on the other side in saying the Conquerour first instituted Sheriffes and the tryall by twelue men which were both ancienter 4 And because the Conquerour for honour of Bishops caused them to remoue from small obscure places to Cities of more renowne we haue therefore reserued to this last place that diuision of this Kingdome which is according to Iurisdiction Episcopall Formerly in the yeare of saluation 636 Honorius the fift Archbishop of Canterbury first diuided England into Parishes which at this day are contained vnder their seuerall Dioâ—â—sans and these againe vnder their two Metropolitanes Canterbury and Yorke in manner following CANTERBVRIE Bishoprickes Counties Parishes Canterbury Kent 257. Rochester 98. London Essex 623. Middlesex Hertford-shire part Lincolne Lincoln-shire 1255. Leicester-shire Huntington Bedford-shire Buckingham-shire Hertford-shire part Chichester Hertford-shire 250. Suffex Winchester Hant-shire 362. Surrey Wight Isle Gernesey Isle Iersey Isle Salisbury Wilt-shire 248. Bark-shire Exester 〈◊〉 shire 604. Cornewall Bath and Wells Sommerset-shire 388. Gloucester Gloucester-shire 267. Worcester Worcester-shire 241. Lichfield and Couentry Warwicke-shire 557. Warwicke-shire part Stafford-shire Derby-shire Shrop-shire part Hereford Shrop-shire part 313. Hereford-shire Ely Cambridge-shire 141. Ely Isle Norwich Norfolke 1121. Suffolke Oxford Oxford-shire 195. Peterborow Northamton 293. Rutland-shire Bristow Dorset-shire 236. Glamorgan Landaffe Monmouth-shire 177. Brecknock-shire Radnor-shire S. Dauid Pembroke-shire 308. Caermarden Bangor Caernaruon-shire 107. Anglesey Isle Merioneth-shire Denbigh-shire S. Asaph Denbigh-shire part 121. Flint shire part YORKE Yorke Yorke-shire 581. Nottingham-shire Chester Chesâ—â—re 256. Richmond-shire Cumberland part â—anca-shire Flint part Carlile Cumberland part 93. Westmorland Durham Durham 135. Northumberland Sodor Man Iland 17. Totall Bishoprickes 27. Parishes 9285. 5 To speake nothing of these twentie-eight Flamins the Priests of Idolatry and the
the other part of the I le This place is called S. Michaelin the Vale where in former times stood a Priory or a Couent of religious persons the ruines whereof are at this day to be seene 8 The gouernment of this I le in nature and forme resembles the other of Iersey of whom shall be said The people in their Originall and Language alike also but in their customes and conditions they come neerer the ciuill fashions of the English Other matters of moment I finde not worthy to be recorded It hath ten Parishes and one Market-Towne being also a Hauen and is called S. Peters Port built close by the Peere and Castle Cornet IERSEY THe two Ilands Iersey and Garnsey being the onely remaines of the Dukedome of Normandie that in former times many yeares together was in the possession and vnder the command of the Kings of England annexing thereunto a large Territory and glorious title to the Crowne are both seated in the Sea called Mare Britannicum the Ocean parting them a good distant asunder and are now both adiuncts and within the circuit of Hampshire For the first being the Isle of Iersey it lyeth vpon the British Sea hauing on the North parts the coasts of Hampshire and on the South the Country of Normandy 2 This Iland is long not much vnlike the fashion of an Egge It containes in length from Sentwon Poole vpon the West to Mount Orguil Castle on the East ten miles and in bredth from Dubon point to Plymount-bay six miles the whole circuit of the Iland being thirtie eight miles It is distant from a little Iland called Alderney about foure leagues It was in old time called Caesaria whether from Iulius Octanius or any the other Caesars that followed is vnknowne But the French-men haue by corruption of speech long time called it Iersey 3 It is a very delightsome and healthfull Iland and giueth a pleasant aspect vnto the Seas It lyeth Southward not farre from a craggie ridge of rocks which is much feared of the Mariners and makes the passage that way very dangerous howbeit it serues for a forcible defence against Pirats or any strangers that attempt inuasion and they are termed Casquets 4 The Soile is very fertile bringing forth store of Corne and Cattle but especially of sheepe that are of reasonable bignesse the most of them bearing foure hornes a peece Their wooll very fine and white of which the Inhabitants make their Iersey stockings which are ordinarily to be had in most parts of England and yeeld a great commoditie vnto the Iland 5 The first originall of the Inhabitants sprung either from the Normans or Britaines or both They speake French though after a corrupt manner and haue continued their names language customes and Country without any or little intermixture these many hundred yeares hauing beene vnder the jurisdiction of the English euer since the vntimely and vnnaturall death of Robert Duke of Normandie eldest sonne to William the Conquerour 6 The people of this Country liue very pleasantly as well by the profits of the Land as the helpes and furtherances of the Sea that yeelds vnto them and especially in Summer season great store of fish but principally Conger and Lobsters the greatest and fattest vpon the coast of England Wood is very scant for their best fuell is Turffe some Coale they haue brought vnto them but it is very deare straw furre and ferne seruing their ordinary vses The middle part of the Iland hath many prety Hils rising in it yeelding a delightfull obiect vnto the vallies that receiue from one another a mutuall pleasure 7 The Gouernour of the I le is the Captaine thereof who appointeth certaine Officers vnder him the principall of whom carrieth the name and title of a Bailiffe that in ciuill causes hath the assistance of twelue Iurats to determine of differences and minister Iustice in criminall matters seuen in matters of reason and conscience fiue Their twelue are chosen out of the twelue Parishes so that no man goeth further to complaine then to his owne Iurate in ordinary Controuersies but matters of moment and difficultie are determined before the Bailiffe in a generall meeting THE DESCRIPTION OF WALES CHAPTER I. ANtiquitie hath auouched that the whole Isle of Britaine was diuided into three parts The first and fairest lay contained within the French Seas the Riuers of Seuerne Dee and Humber called then â—â—oyger which name yet it retaineth in Wâ—â—sh in English called England The second part occupied all the land Northward from Humber to the Orkney Sea called by the Latines Mare Caledonium or Deucaledonium now famously knowne by the name of Scotland The third part was this lying betwixt the Irish Seas the Riuers Seuerne and Dee and was called Cambria which name doth yet continue with them though we the English call it Wales as the people Welshmen which is strange and strangers for so at this day the dwellers of Tyroll in the higher Germany whence our Saxons are said to haue come doe name the Italian their next neighbour a Welshman and his language Welsh 2 This opinion Verstegan doth altogether contradict rather iudging by the ancient Tentonicks tongue which the Germans spake and wherein the G. is pronounced for W. that these Saxons called them Gallish from the Goâ—les whence their originall proceeded rather then Wallish from strangers which he thinketh could not be considering their habitations â—o neere vnto them and that the like was in vse he proueth by the words of French Gardian for Wardian Corangalles for 〈◊〉 yea and Galles for Wales calling our most famous Edward Prince of Galles not Prince of Wales insomuch that the County of Lombardy bordering along vpon the Germans was of them called Gallia Cis-alpina and at this day Welsh-land So likewise doe the Netherlanders call the Inhabitants of Henalâ— and Artois Wallen or Wallons and some parts of Brabanâ— and Flanderâ— Welsh-Brabanâ— and Welsh-Flanders and all because of the language or lineage of the Gaules Neither do the meere Natiues of Wales know any other name of their Country then Cambria of themselues then Cambri or Cumri or of their language then Cambraoc But leauing this opinion free to his affection we will proceed 3 Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britaines all the plaine and champion Country ouer the Riuer d ee and especially Offa King of Mercia made their limits straiter by making a ditch of great bredth depth to be a Meere betwixt his Kingdome and Wales This ditch is in many places to be seene at this day and beares the name of Clawâ— Offa that is Offaes Ditch The Country betweene it and England is commonly called the Marches and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen especially in North-Wales euen to the Riuer Dee This admirable Trench began at Bassingwerke in Flintshire betweene Chester and Ruthlan and ran along the hils to the South Sea a little from Bristow
round in compasse and within her wals another mount whereon a Towre of great height and strength is built which was the birth-place of our Conquering Henry the great Triumpher ouer France but now decayed and from a Princely Castle is become no better then a regardlesse Cottage In this Towne a beautifull Church built with three Iles is remaining and at the East end a most curiously built but now decayed Church stands called the Monkes 〈◊〉 In the Monastery whereof our great Antiquarie Geffrey surnamed Munmouth and Ap 〈◊〉 his History of Great Britaineâ— whose paines as they were both learned and great so 〈◊〉 bred great paines among the learned both to defend and to disproue The Townes situation is pleasant and good seated betwixt the Riuers Monnowe and Wye three Gates yet stand besides that Tower or Locke of the Bridge and a Trench or tract of wall running betwixt the â—on each side downe to the Riuer containing in circuit about eight hundred paces The Towne is 〈◊〉 good repayre and well frequented gouerned by a Maior two Bailiffes fifteene Common Councellers a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants for their Attendance It is in Latitude remoued from the Equator 52. degrees and 8. minutes and from the West point of Longitude is set in the degree 17. 36. minutes Religious Houses erected and suppressed in this Shire for greatest account haue beene in Câ—…â—…on Chepstow Gold-cliffe Munmouth and Llantony which last stood so solitary and among hils that the Sunne was not seene to shine there but onely betwixt the houres of one and three MOVNTGOMERY-SHIRE CHAPTER IX MOVNTGOMERY-SHIRE in the British speech called 〈◊〉 and that of the principall Towne Mountgomery lyeth bounded vpon the North with Denbigh-shire vpon the East with Shrop-shire on the South with Raâ—â—or and Cardigan-shires and on the West with Merioneth-shire 2 In forme it somewhat resembleth a Peare or Pine-apple as it were growing out of the West and rising thence with many high Hilles and plentifull Springâ— which water and make fruitfull the Soyle query where whose searching rilles with a longing desire haste euer forward to finde an increase and to 〈◊〉 theiâ— growth into a bigger body whereof the Sâ—uerne is the chiefe and the second Riuer in the Land whose head rising from the spired mountaine Plymillimon runneth not farre without the receits of other riuerâ—â—â— into her streame and with many wings doth spore her selfe thorow all the East part of this Shire 3 That this Riuer tooke her name from 〈◊〉 the beautifull 〈◊〉 daughter of 〈◊〉 begotten out of wedlock vpon Estrildiâ— the daughter of 〈◊〉 the 〈◊〉 King â—â—â—rinuaded this Land and both of them drowned in this Riuer by Guenâ—â—lena King 〈◊〉 â—â—â—uiuing widow let 〈◊〉 relate and Poets enlarge whereof one among them in good account thus writeth In 〈◊〉 pracipitatur Abren Nomen Abren 〈◊〉 de Virgine 〈…〉 Into this streame faire Abren head-long cast Gaue name of Abren to those waters wast Corruptly call'd Sabrina now at last 4 This Riuer maketh the East part of this Shire for fruitfulnesse to be compared with most of the Land and to exceed any other Shire in Wales the West side is more hilly and lesse inhabited yet surely those mountaines breed innumerable of Cattle especially of horses whose portraiture for making and incomparable swiftnesse Giraldus Cambrensis Arch-deacon of Breknocke doth greatly commend 5 The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in Gwineth and Powisland whereof this Shire was a part were to the Romanes knowne by the name of ORDOVICES a puissant and couragious Nation whose hearts and hilles held them the longest free from the yoke of subiection either of the Romans or English for vnto the dayes of Domitian they kept plea with the Romans 〈◊〉 were not brought to the will of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first Those ORDOVICES inhabited the Counties of Mountgomery Merioneth Caerâ—â—â— Denbigh and Flâ—t which are of vs called now North-Wales a people generous and of affableâ—◠〈◊〉 goodly for feature faire of complexion couragious of minde courteous to strangers and that which is most commendable most true and loyall to the English Crowne Townes for Trades and commerce in this Countie are fix the chiefest thereof and Shire-Towne is Mountgomery very wholesome for ayre and pleasant for situation vpon an easie ascent of an hill and vpon another farre higher mounted stands a faire and well-repaired Castle from the East Rocke whereof the Towne hath beene walled as by some part yet standing and the tract and trench of the rest euen vnto the North-side of the said Castle may euidently be seene whose graduation for Latitude is placed in the degree 53. and for Longitude 17. the lines cutting each other in the site of this Towne This Towne hath lately receiued the honour and Title of an Earledome whereof Philip Herbert the second sonne of Henry Earle of Pembroke was created the first in Anno 1605. And the Shire diuided into seauen Hundreds wherein are seated sixe Market-Townes and fortie seauen Parish-Churches MERIONETH-SHIRE CHAPTER X. MERIONETH-SHIRE which the Britaines call Sira-Verieneth and in Latine Merâ—inia is bordered vpon the North by Carnarâ—â—on and Denbigh-shires vpon the East with Mongomery vpon the South by the Riuer Dowy is parted from Cardigan-shire and the West side altogether washed with the Irish Seas whose rage with such vehemency beateth against her bankes that it is thought and said some quantitie of the Land hath beene swallowed vp by those Seas 2 In forme this Shire somewhat resembleth a Welsh-Harpe though small is the Musicke that to her Inhabitants she makes being the roughest and most vnpleasant to see to as Giraldus their owne Historian writeth in all Wales The ayre for great pleasure nor soyle for great profit I cannot greatly commend vnlesse it be for the many and mightie great winds that for the most part therein doe rage and the spired hils clustered together so neere and so high as the same Author affirmeth that Shepheards vpon their tops falling at oddes in the morning and challenging the field for fight before they can come together to try out the quarrell the day will be spent and the heate of their fury shut vp with their sleepe 3 These mountaines formerly did abound with Wolues for whose auoydeance Hdgar the peaceable did impose as Malmesbury writeth a yearely Tribute of three hundred Wolues vpon Ludwall Prince of that Country whereby in three yeares space they were quite destroyed and now their faces are couered with fruitfull flockes of Sheepe besides Neate and other Cattell that therein abundantly doe grase wherein the onely riches of this Shire doth consist for by reason of the vneuennesse of the soile and rocks so noere the face of the earth the Plough cannot be 〈…〉 Corne prosper which some haue imputed to the idlenesse of the Inhabitants wherein they haue beene greatly wronged 4 These people are a part of the Ordonices of whom we haue spoken who by the aduantage of these mountaines held out with
and therein detained the space of nineteene yeares 8 Things of stranger note are the hot Water-springs bursting forth of the ground at Buxton where out of the Rocke within the compasse of eight yards nine springs arise eight of them warme but the ninth very cold These run from vnder a faire square building of free-stones and about three-score paces off receiue another hot spring from a Well inclosed with foure flat stones called Saint Annes neere vnto which another very cold spring bubled vp The report goeth among the by-dwellers that great cures by these waters haue beene done but daily experience sheweth that they are good for the stomacke and sinewes and very pleasant to bathe the body in Not farre thence is Elden hole whereof strange things haue beene told and this is confidently affirmed the waters that trickle from the top of that Caue which indeed is very spacious but of a low and narrow entrance doe congeale into stone and hang as ickles in the roofe Some of them were shewed at my being there which like vnto such as the frost congealeth were hollow within and grew Taper-wise towards their points very white and somewhat Crystall-like And seauen miles thence vpon a mounted hill standeth a Castle vnder which there is a hole or Caue in the ground of a marueilous capacitie which is commonly called The Deuils Arse in the Peake whereof Geruase of Tilbury hath told many pretie tales and others doe make it one of the wonders of our Land 9 As in other Counties the deuotions of the religious haue beene made apparent in the erection of places for Gods peculiar seruice so in this haue beene founded eight of that nature which were Dale Detelege Darby Repâ—on Bechif Graiâ—sley Fauerwell and Pollewerke whose peace and plentie stood secure from all danger till the blustering windes arising in the Raigne of King Henry the eight blew off the pinacles of their beauteous buildings and shooke asunder the reuenewes of those Foundations which neuer are like againe to be laid STAFFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXIIII STAFFORD-SHIRE whose situation is much about the middle of England meeteth vpon the North with Chesse-shire and Darby and that in a Triangle point where three stones are pitched for the bounds of these Shires it is parted from Darby shire on the East with Dowe and with Trent the South is confined with Warwicke and Worcester-shires and the West butteth against the Countie of Shrop-shire The forme thereof is somewhat Lozeng-like that is sharpe at both ends and broadest in the midst The length extending from North to South is by measure fortie foure miles and the bredth from East to West twenty seauen miles the whole in circumference one hundred and fortie miles 3 The ayre is good and very healthfull though ouer-sharpe in her North and Moreland where the snow lyeth long and the winde bloweth cold 4 The Soile in that part is barren of Corne because her hilles and Mores are no friends vnto Tillage the middle is more leuell but therewithall wooddie as well witnesseth that great one called the Cank But the South is most plenteous in Corne and Pasturage 5 Her ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII whom Ptolemie placeth in the Tract that containeth Shrop-shire Worcester-shire Chesse-shire and this all which were possessed by the Mercian-Saxons when their Heptarchy flourished And Tameworth in this Shire was then held their Kings Court The Danes after them often aflayed herein to haue seated as witnesseth Ternall then Thâ—â—tenhall by interpretation The habitation of Pagans â—â—brued with their bloud by King Edward the elder But the Inhabitants of this Prouince Beda tearmes The midland Englishmen because to his seeming it lay in the heart of the Land which when the Normans had made Conquest of all many of them set downe their rest here whose posteritie at this day are fairely and further branched into other parts 6 The Commodities of this Countie consist chiefly in Corne Cattle Alablaster Woods and Iron if the one proue not the destruction of the other Pit-coale Flesh and Fish whereof the Riuer Trent is said to swarme and others arising and running thorow this Shire doe so batten the ground that the Meadowes euen in the midst of Winter grow greene such are Dowe Manifold Churnot Hunsye Yenden Tean Elith Trent Tyne and Sowe whereof Trent is not onely the principall but in esteeme accounted the third of this Land 7 Stafford the Snire-Towne anciently Betheney from Bertelin a reputed holy man that therein lead an Hermits life was built by King Edward the elder incorporated by King Iohn and vpon the East and South parts was walled and trenched by the Barons of the place the rest from East to North was secured by a large Poole of water which now is become faire Meadow grounds The tract and circuit of these welles extended to twelue hundred and fortie pases thorow which foure Gates into the foure winds haue passage the Riuer Sowe running on the South and West of the Towne King Edward the sixt did incorporate the Burgesses and gaue them a perpetuall succession whose gouernment is vnder two Bailiffes yearely elected out of one and twentie Assistants called the Common Counsell a Recorder whereof the Dukes of Buckingham haue borne the Office and as yet is kept a Court of Record wherein they hold Plea without limitation of summe a Towne-Clerke also from whose Pen I receiued these Instructions and to attend them two Sergeants at Mace This Towne is sited in the degree of Latitude 53. 20. scruples and of Longitude 18. and 40. scruples 8 But Leichfield more large and of farre greater same is much her ancient knowne vnto Beda by the name of Licidfeld which Rosse doth interpret to be The field of deadbodies for the number of Saints vnder the rage of Dioclesiaâ— there slaine vpon which cause the Citie beareth for her Armes an Eschocheon of Landskip with diuers Martyrs in diuers manner massacred Here Oswin King of Northumberland ouer-comming the Pagan-Mercians built a Church and made it the See of Duina the Bishop whose successors growne rich with golden reasons so ouercame King Offa and the Adrian the Pope that an Archiepiscopall Pale was granted Bishop Eadulph to the great disgrace of Lambert Arch-bishop of Canterbury In this Church were interred the bodies of Wulshere and Celred both of them Kings of the Mercians But when the mindes of men were set altogether vpon gorgeous building this old foundation was new reared by Roger Clinton Bishop of this See and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Chad and the Close inwalled by Bishop Langton The gouernment of this Citie is by two Bailiffes and one Sheriffe yearely chosen out of twentie-foure Burgesses a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants their Attendants 9 Houses of Religion erected in this Shire were at Leichfield Stafford De la Crosse Cruâ—den Trentham Burton Tamworth and Woluer-hamptâ—n These Votaries abusing their Founders true pieties and heaping vp riches with disdaine of the Laitie laid themselues open
them sounded a retreat and prohibited his Host any longer perfuie He being thus possessed of the I le of Man dyed in the Iland that is called Ile when he had raigned sixteene yeares He left behinde him three sonnes Lagman Harald and Olaue 4 Lagman the eldest taking vpon him the Kingdome raigned seauen yeares His brother Harald rebelled against him a great while but at length was taken prisoner by Lagman who caused his members of generation to be cut off and his eyes to be put out of his head which crueltie this Lagman afterwards repenting gaue ouer the Kingdome of his owne accord and wearing the badge of the Lords Crosse tooke a iourney to Ierusalem in which he dyed 5 An 1075. all the Lords and Nobles of the Iland◠hearing of the death of Lagman dispatched Ambassadours to Murecard O-brien King of Ireland and requested that he would send some worthy and industrious man of the Bloud Royall to be their King till Olaue the sonne of Godred came to full age The King yeelding to their request sent one Dopnald the sonne of Tade and charged him to gouerne the Kingdome which by right belonged to another with lenitie and gentlenesse But after be was come to the Crowne forgetting or not weighing the charge that his Lord and Master had giuen him swayed his place with great tyranny committing many outrages and cruelties and so raigned three yeares till all the Princes of the Ilands agreeing together rose vp against him and made him flie into Ireland 6 An. Dom. 1111. Olaue the sonne of Godred Crouan aforesaid began his raigne and raigned fortie yeares a peaceable Prince He tooke to wife Affrica the daughter of Fergus of Gal-way of whom he begat Godred By his Concubines he had Raignald Lagman and Harald besides many daughters whereof one was married to Summerled Prince of Herergaidel who caused the ruine of the Kings of the Ilands On her he begat foure sonnes Dulgal Raignald Engus and Olaue 7 An. Dom. 1144 Godred the sonne of Olaue was created King of Man and raigned thiritie yeares In the third yeare of his raigne the people of Dublin sent for him and made him their King Which Mure-card King of Ireland maligning raised warre and sent Osibeley his halfe brother by the mothers side with 3000. men at Armes to Dublin who by Godred and the Dublinians was slaine and the rest all put to flight These atchieuements made Godred returned to Man and began to vse tyranny turning the Noblemen out of their inheritances Whereupon one called Thorfin vtters sonne being mightier then the rest came to Summerled and made Dulgal Summerleds sonne King of the Ilands whereof Godred hauing intelligence prepared a Nauie of 80. Shippes to meet Summerled And in the yeare 1156. there was a Battle fought at Sea on Twelfth day at night and many slaine on both sides But the next day they grew to a pacification and diuided the Kingdome of the Ilands among themselues This was the cause of the ouerthrow of the Kingdome of the Iles. 8 Ann 1158. Summerled came to Man with a fleet of fiftie three saile put Godred to flight and wasted the Iland Godred vpon this crossed ouer to Norway for ayde against Summerled But Summerled in the meane time arriuing at Rhinfrin and hauing gathered together fleet of 160 ships couerting to subdue all Scotland by the rust iudgement of God was vanquished by a few and both himselfe and his sonne slaine with an infinite number of people 9 The fourth day after Raignald began to raigne but Godred comming vpon him out of Norway with a great multitude of Armed men tooke his brother Raignald and be rest him both of his eyes and genitall members On the fourth Ides of Nouember An. Dom. 1187. Godred King of the Ilands dyed and his body was translated to the I le of Ely He left behinde him three sonnes Raignald Olaue and Yuar He ordained in his life time that Olaue should succeed him because he onely was borne legitimate But the people of Man seeing him to be scarce ten yeares old sent for Raignald and made him their King I his caused great diuision and many turbulent attempts betweene the two Brethren for the space of thirtie eight yeares which had no end till at a place called Tnigualla there was a battle strucke betweene them wherein Olaue had the victory and Raignald was slaine The Monkes of Russin translated his body vnto the Abbey of S. Mary de Fournes and there interred it in a place which himselfe had chosen for that purpose 10 An. 1230. Olaue and Godred Don who was Raignalds sonne with the Norwegians came to Man and diuided the Kingdome among themselues Olaue held Man and Godred being gone vnto the Ilands was slaine in the I le Lodhus So Olaue obtained the Kingdome of the Isses He dyed the twelfth Calends of Lune Anno 1237. in Saint Patrickes Iland and was buryed in the Abbey of Russin 11 Harrold his sonne succeeded him being foureteene yeares of age and raigned 12 yeares In the yeare 1239. he went vnto the King of Norway who after two yeares confirmed vnto him his heyres and successours vnder his Seale all the Ilands which his predecessours had possessed 12 An. 1242. Harrold returned out of Norway and being by the Inhabitants honourably receiued had peace with the Kings of England and of Scotland The same yeare he was sent for by the King of Norway and married his daughter In the yeare 1249. as he returned homeward with his wife he was drowned in a tempest neere vnto the coasts of Radland 13 An Dom. 1249. Raignald the sonne of Olaue and brother to Harrold began his raigne and on the thirtieth day there of was slaine by one Yuar a Knight in a meadow neere vnto the holy Trinitie Church and lyeth buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 14 In the yeare 1252. Magnus the sonne of Olaue came to Man and was made King The next yeare following he went to the King of Norway and stayed there a yeare 15 In the yeare 1265. Magnus Olaues sonne King of Man and of the Ilands departed this life at the Castle of Russin and was buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 16 In the yeare 1266. the Kingdome of the Ilands was translated by reason of Alexander King of Scots who had gotten into his hands the Westerne Ilands and brought the I le of Man vnder his dominion as one of that number HOLY ILAND CHAPTER XLV THis Iland is called Lindisfarne by the Riuer Lied that is opposite vnto it on the Coast of Northumberland Beda termeth it a Deiny Iland The Britaine name it 〈…〉 for that it twice euery day suffreth an extraordinary inundation and ouer-flowing of the Ocean in manner of an Iland which twice likewise makes it continent to the Land and returning vnto her watrie habitation layes the Shoare bare againe as before It is called in English Holy-Iland for that in ancient times many Monkes haue beene accustomed to
who trauelled through these Ilands reporteth are three Tombes hauing the seuerall Inscriptions of the Kings of Scotland of Ireland and of Norway 19 Among these Westerne Ilands the Hebrides Skie Mula Ila and Arran are the greatest All of them plentifull of Corne Woods Salmons and Fâ—errings as others of Conies Deere Horses and Sheepe where in some they are wilde and in others without any owners but the people vnciuill and lacking Religion they rather liue rudely in state of necessitie then as Lords of these portions which God hath allotted them and with a sufferable ease ignorant of ambition enioy those contentments which some others though they no great summe doe more laboriously attaine vnto by the precepts of Philosopie for feeding themselues with competencie without any excesse they returne all the ouer-plus vnto their Lords as doe the Inhabitants of Hirta and Rona but alas Religion not knowne among them these penurious vertues are rather the curses of Cham then the followings of Christ who forbids vs to be too carefull for the morrow 20 The Iles of Orkenay vpon the North of Scotland lying in a most raging and tempestuous Sea are about three and thirtie in number whereof thirteene are inhabited and the other replenished with Cattle in these are no venomous Serpents nor other vgly vermin the aire sharpe and healthfull and the soile apt to beare onely Oats and Barley but not a sticke of wood among these Pomonia is the greatest accounted and called the maine-Maine-land affording sixe Minerals of Lead and Tinne and in her chiefe Towne a Bishops See wherein are seated twelue Parish-Churches one of them very magnificent for so remote a Country 21 Of all the Romanes Iulius Agricola first discouered the Orkenays yea and subdued them if we will beleeue Tacitus but Pomponius Mela that wrote thirtie yeares before him doth mention them and Iuuenal in Hadrians time after him tels vs the Romanes had won them and lastly Claudian nameth Saxons that were slaine in them and so doth Ninius name Octha and Ebissus Saxon Commanders who in their rouing Pinnaces wasted the Orknays These Ilands Donald Bane the vsurper of the Scotish Crowne gaue to the King of Norway for his assistance and by the Norwegians were they held the space of an hundred and sixtie yeares vntill that Alexander the third King of Scotland with sword and composition got them from Magnus the fourth King of Norway which afterward King Haquin confirmed vnto King Robert Bruce but lastly Christian the first King of Norway and Denmarke vtterly renounced all his right to those Ilands when he gaue his daughter in marriage vnto King Iames the third which deed was further ratified by the Pope who openeth the way to the possession of Kingdomes with his owne key IRELAND DESCRIBED CHAPTER I. THe Traditions of time haue deliuered vnto vs diuers names whereby this famous Iland is recorded to haue beene called yet none of more faire probabilitie then that of Orpheus Aristotle and Claudian by whom it is named Ierna by Iuuenal and Mela called Iuuerna by Diodorus Siculus Iris by Martian of Heraclea Ioyepnia by Eustachius Oyernia and Bernia by the natiue Inhabitants Eryn by the Britaines Yuerdon the Welsh-Bards in their Ballads Tiruolas Totidanan and Banno and by the English Ireland But from whence these diuersities were deriued arise many opinions Doubtlesse it is that Hibernia Iuuerna and Ouernia came from Ierna spoken of by Oâ—pheus and Aristotle and the same Ierna as also Iris Iuerdhon and Ireland from Erin the terme that the Inhabitants now vse From this Erin therefore a word proper to the Nation the originall is most likely to be deduced 2 Some deriue Hiberâ—â—a from Hiberno tempore that is from the winter season some from Hiberus a Spaniard some from a Duke named Irnalph some againe from the ancient Riuer Iberus and 〈◊〉 from Hiere an Irish word which signifieth the west or a westerne coast whence Erin may also seeme to setch the deriuation for it lieth furthest Westward of any Region in all Europe As also for that the Riuer running in the most remote west-part of this Iland is in Ptolemy called Iernus like as the furthest Westerne Promontory in Spaine from whence our Irish men came is by Strabo called Ierne and the Riuer next vnto it by Mela Ierna yea and Spaine it selfe for the Westerne situation is called Hesperia the West-Cape of Africke Hesperium and in Germany Westrich and Westphaleâ— from their position haue their names Postelius a man that rather followed his owne fancy then the iudgement of others fetcheth the originall of Ireland from the Hebrewes as if Irin should be as much as Iurin that is the Iewes land which opinion I hold no better then those that would haue it from the Winter-like stormes although vpon euery winde the aire is cold there 3 Festus Auienus in that little booke which he entituled Ora maritima calleth Ireland Sacram Insulam that is the holy Iland to which opinion the people are soone drawne by reason of the many Saints that the Iland is said to produce and the blessed soile that affords no venomous creatures to retaine life It is thought that Plutarch meant Ireland by his Ogygia for her great antiquitie and of latter times by â—sidore and Bede it was called Scots of those Scots that inhabited it and that thence the name of Scotland together with the Scots themselues came into Britaine 4 For largenesse and circuit in times past this Iland challenged the third place in ranke of all the Iles of the then knowne world for thus haue Geographers left vs that the Indian Taprobaâ— for greatnesse was the first the I le of Britaine the next and this of Ireland the third and for that cause doth Ptolemy call it the little Britaine But how soeuer Strabo hath extended the bredth as broad as the length and others haue formed it in shape like an egge yet latter dimensions haue found it farre otherwise twice longer then broad and may be compared to the forelegge of a Beare if the Siâ—ile breed no offence Whose East-side hath on it that tempestuous Sea that cutteth her channell betwixt England and this Ireland the West is washed with the Westerne Ocean the North with the 〈◊〉 Caledonian and the South with the Vergiuian Sea 5 The aire of this Iland is delectable and wholesome though neither so cleere nor subâ—â—â— of England which as Mela saith is nothing fauourable for the ripening of Corâ—e but so gratefull to the ground that it causeth grasse to grow abundâ—ntly not onely fresh and long but withall very sweet for all Cattle and in Winter is more subiect to winde then snow and that I may vse the words of Giraldus It is of all Countries most temperate neither forcing the Inhabitants to seeke shade from the frying heat of Cancer nor the chilling cold of Capricorne to driue them to the fire but at all seasons most milde betwixt a sufferable cold and gentle warme heat 6 The soile
saith Cambrensis is vneuen wooddy wilde waterish and boggy so full of Loghs and Meeres that great ponds of water are found vpon the high Mountaines These indeed make the places somewhat dangerous vnto all new commers by breeding of rheums dyssenteries and fluxes whose vsuall remedie is Vskebah a wholesome Aqua vita that drieth more and enflameth lesse then many other hot confections 7 The Commodities of this Kingdome chiefly consist in Cattle whose feed is so sweet and so ranke that they will soone graze to a surfet if they may be suffered to feed as they will Their sheepe are many but beare not the best wooll which twice are shorne within one yeare Of these they make Mantles Caddowes and Couerleâ—s vented from thence into forraine Countries Their Hobbies likewise are of great esteeme and are answerable to the â—ennets of Spaine Bees are there in such abundance that hony is found in holes of old trees and in rests of the rockes No annoyance of hurtfull Snake or venomous creatures and to speake all in a word nothing wanting for profit or pleasure for so much doth Giraldus affirme in saying that Nature had cast into this Westerne Kingdome of Zephyrus a more gracious eye then was ordinary 8 Touching the originall peopling of this faire Iland if we will beleeue their records they make antiquitie it selfe but young vnto themselues affirming the damsell Caesarea and niece vnto Noah to haue found it out before the Floud and that three hundred yeares after when Iaâ—hets posteritie tooke into these West-parts of the world one Barthelaâ—â—â— of his progeny a Sâ—ythian by birth encouraged by the late successe of Nâ—â—rod who now had intruded vpon the Monarchy of Syria wandred so farre West that Fortune at last cast him and his people vpon the coast of Ireland There he setled with his three sonnes Languinna Salarus and Ruthurgus who searching through euery creeke and corner of the Land left their owne names by three notable places Languiâ—â— Stragrus and Mount Salanga which the reuolution of times hath since called by other names as S. Dominickhill Ruthurgi and Stagâ—â—â— Vnder the gouernment of these three sonnes and their off-spring this land was kept about three hundred yeares at which time there arriued also in Ireland a Giant-like kinde of people of Nimrods race who in bodily shape exceeded the proportion of vsuallmen vsing their strengths to winne 〈…〉 and to oppreste with rapine and violence These growing to numbers accounted it necesâ—ary to preuent dominion lest the curse of slauery prophecied by Noah should light vpon them to preuent the which they set vp a King of their owne then quarrels bred daily either parties purposing to hold their interest by their swords against whom lastly a battle was fought and an infinite company of Giants slaine when also died most of those of the posteritie of Iapheth leauing them of Cham Lords of Iland 9 Whereupon Nemethus a Scythian with his foure sonnes arriued in Ireland and by strong hand seated themselues among these Grants where for two hundred and sixtie yeares they kept but then no longer able to hold out against them they left their standings and departed the land 10 Soone after the fiue sonnes of Dela descended from the said Nemethus came into these coasts and with manly prowesâ—e droue these miscreants out of Ireland whereby the seed of Cham was vtterly expelled these of Iapheth diuided the land into fiue parts whereof they became themselues Kings but falling at variance gaue aduantage vnto others among whom the BRITAINES set in a foot 11 But to make this Iland more famous certaine Historians haue fetched their Kings from most vncertaine Records as namely from Gaothel the Grecian and Scotia the daughter of King Pharao and nourisher of Moses his wife who at that time when Israel were in Egypt with a Colony came into Spaine and after into Ireland where he was made King and in honour of his Queene the land named Scotia from whom also the Inhabitants tooke name his posteritie increasing in the parts of Spaine where first they had seated in procesâ—e of time sought further aduentures vnder the foure sonnes of Milesius King of Spaine whose names were Hibernus Hermion Euer and Erimon 12 These by the direction sufferance and assistance of Gurguntius King of the Britaines after that Ireland had beene very much dispeopled by a contagious pestilence seated themselues and from the eldest Hiberius called the Iâ—â—and Hibernia as some are of opinion these diuided the whole into fiue Proâ—â—nces famously knowne by the names of Mounster Leinster Connaught Vlster and Mâ—ath in their midst and from these the present Irish repute themselues to come Yet surely as I make no question but that this Iland became inhabited euen of old time when mankinde againe ouer-spred the face of the earth so doubt I not but that our Britaines pasâ—ed thereinto themselues such infinite number of words in the Irish language yet in vse such ancient names of Waters Isles Mountaines and places meerely British words yet remaining and the testimony of â—acitus who saith that their manners were fashioned to the Britaines inforceth so much and Ptolemy before him calleth that Iland by the name of little Britaine all which shew a former interest for Ireland then that which by conquest vnder Henry the second was made 13 That it euer was subiect to the Romans is doubtfull though Agricola did wish it and Tacitus held most necessary yea and in the diuision of their Empire Ireland with Britaine and Thule fell vnto Constantine the sonne of Constantine the great yet their manners vnreclaimed and barbarisme retained long after those dayes doe witnesse no such 〈◊〉 sowne to be in that plot But when Romes great Empire began to grow lesse the Scots or Scythians grew mightie in Ireland and as Orosâ—â—â— writeth that Island was wholly inhabited by the Scotish Nation in the dayes of Honorius and Arâ—â—dius the Emperours whose warres and slaughter Claudian doth lightly touch in this his Verse Scotorum cumulos fleuit glacialis Ierne The frozen Ireland wept to see her Scots all slaine on hâ—apes to be 14 As these for the most part by the testimony of Ninius were the ancient Inhabitants so by other ancient Writers their customes and manners are thus set forth Strabo saith The Inhabitants of Ireland are more rude then the Britaines they feed vpon the flesh of men yea and thinke it a point of worth to eat their dead parents want only they accompany with women making no difference of other mens wiues their owne sisters nor of their naturall mothers but of these things saith he we haue no certaine witnesse of sufficient credit Poâ—ponius Mela recordeth that the Irish are vnâ—iuill ignorant of vertues and void of religion And Solinus affirmeth that after victory they drinke the bloud of the slaine and besmeare their owne faces therewith so giuen to warre that the mother at the birth of a man-childe feedeth the first meat into her
three Arch-Flamins whose seates were at London Caerlion and Yorke all of them conuerted by King Lucius into Christian Bishops Sees let vs onely insist vpon the three last by the same King appointed to be Metropolitanes ouer the rest among whom London is said to be chiefe whos 's first Christian Arch-bishop was Thean the builder of S. Peters Church in Cornehill for his Cathedrall as by an ancient Table there lately hanging was affirmed and tradition to this day doth hold Our British Historians doe bring a succession of fifteene Arch-bishops to haue sate from his time vnto the comming of the Saxons whose last was Vodius slaine by King Vortiger for reprehending his heathenish marriage with Râ—wâ—n the Daugher of Hengist At what time began the misery of the Land and of holy Religion both which they layd wast vnder their prophane feete vntill Ethelbert of Kent the first Christian Saxon King aduanced Christainitie Augustine to the Arch-bishopricke of Canterbury when London vnder Melitus became subiect to that See 6 At Caerlion vpon Vske in the time of great Arthur sate Dubritius a man excellently learned and of an holy conuersation he had sate Bishop of Landaffe a long time and with Germanus and Lupus two French Bishops greatly impugned the Pelagian Heresie infecting at that time the Iland very farre whose fame and integritie was such that he was made Arch-bishop of all Wales but growne very old he resigned the same vnto Dauia his Disciple a man of greater birth but greater austeritie of life who by consent of King Arthur remoued his Arch-bishops See vnto Meneuia a place very solitary and meete for meditation the miracles of the man which are said to be many changed both the name of the place into his owne and robbed Caerlion of her Archiepiscopall seate This See of S Dauids as in an ancient Register belonging to that Church is recorded had seauen Bishops Suffraganes subiect vnto it which were Exceter Bathe He eford Landaffe Bangor S. Asaph and â—eâ—nes in Ireland notwithstanding eyther for want of Pall carried into Britanny by Arch-bishop Samâ—son in a dangerous infection of sicknesse either by pouertie or negligence it lost that Iurisdiction and in the dayes of King Henry the first became subiect to the See of Canterbury 7 Yorke hath had better successe then eyther of the former in retayning her originall honour though much impaired in her circuit challenging to haue beene some time Metropolitane ouer all the Bishops in Scotland and although it was made equall in honour and power with Canterbury by Pope Gregory as Beda relateth and had twelue Suffragan Bishoprickes that owed obedience onely foure now acknowledge Yorke their Metropolitane but Canterbury the Superiour for William the Conquerour thinking it dangerous to haue two in like authoritie least the one should set on his Crowne and the other strike it off left Yorke to be a Primate but Canterbury onely the Prinâ—â—â— of all England 8 The Lichfield was made an Archiepiscopall See by Pope Hadrian the first at the suit of Offa the great King of Mercia is manifested by Mathew of Westminster vnto whose Iurisdiction were assigned the Bishoprickes of Winchester Hereford Leicester Sidnacester Helmâ—am and Dunwich and whose first and last bishop was Aldwin That Winchester also had intended an Archiepiscopall Pall the same Author recordeth when Henry Bloys of the bloud royall greatly contended with the Arch bishop of Canterbury for superioritie vnder the pretence of being Cardinall de latere to him an Archiepiscopall Pall was sent with power and authoritie ouer seauen Churches but he dying before that the designe was done the See of Winchester remained in subiection to Canterbury And that long before the See of Dorchester by Oxford had the Iurisdiction of an Arch-bishop is apparant by those Prouinces that were vnder his Diocesse which were Winchester Oxford Lincolne Salisbury Bâ—estow Wells Lichfield Chester and Excester and the first Bishop of this great circuit Berinuâ— was called the Apostle and Bishop of the West Saxons which in his next successor was diuided into two parts Winchester and Dorchester and not long after into Lichfield Sidnacester and Legecester and lastly the See remoued from Dorchester to Lincolne as now it is And thus farre for the diuision of this Realme both Politicke and Ecclesiasticke as it hath stood and stands at this day 9 But the whole Ilands diuision by most certaine Record was anciently made when Iulius Agricâ—la drew a trench or fortification vpon that narrow space of ground betwixt Edenbrough Frith and Dunbretton Bay making the Southerne part a Prouince vnto the Romane Empire Afterwards Hadrian the Emperour seeing perhaps the Prouince too spacious to be well gouerned without great expense drew backe these limits almost fourescore miles shotter euen to the mouth of the Riuer Tyne whence he fortified with a wall of admirable worke vnto Carlile which stood the Lands border while it stood as a Romane Prouince yet the conquering Saxons did spread againe ouer those bounds and as seemeth enlarged their gouernment to that first Tract as by this inscription in a Stone Crosse standing vpon a Bridge ouer the water of Frith appeareth I am a free March as Passengers may ken To Scots to Britaines and to Englishmen 10 But afterward William the Conquerour and Malcolme King of Scotland falling to an agreement for their limits arreared a Crosse vpon Stanemore where on the one side the portraiture and Armes of the King of England was sculptured and of the King of Scots on the other a piece whereof is yet remaining there neere to the Spittle thence called the Rev-Crosse there erected to be a Meare-stone to either Kingdome His successors also abolished the two partitions in the West whereby the Welsh became one Nation and Kingdome with the English It is also said that King Stephen to purchase friendship with the Scottish Nation gaue vnto their King the Countie of Cumberland who with it held both Westmorland and Northumberland but as Newbrigensis writeth he restored them to King Henry the second wisely considering his great power and right to those parts KENT CHAPTER III. KENT the first Prouince appearing in the South of this Kingdome is bounded vpon the North with the famous Riuer Thamisis on the East with the Germane Ocean on the South with Sussex and the narrow Seas and vpon the West and Sussex and Surrey The length thereof extended from Langley in the West vnto Ramsgate Eastward in the Isle of Thanet is about 53. English miles From Rother in the South vnto the Isle of Graine Northward the bredth is not much aboue 26. and the whole circumference about 160. miles 2 Informe it somewhat resembleth the head of a hammer or Battle-axe and lyeth corner-wise into the Sea by Strabo Caesar Diadorus and Ptolemie called Cantium of Cant or Angle or Corner either of Caine a British word which signifieth Bushes or Woods whereof that Countie in those former times was plentifully stored 3 The ayre though not very
end and in London doing many outrages where in Smithfield he was lastly strucke downe by William Walworth then Maior of the Citie and worthily slaine for his notorious treasons Againe vpon Black-heath Michael Ioseph the Lord Dawbeny with their Cornish Rebels were ouerthrowne by King Henry the seauenth Anno 1497. SVSSEX CHAPTER IIII. SVTH-SEX a word compounded of the sire thâ—reof Southward lyeth stretched along the British Seas The North confronts vpon Surâ—â—y and Kent and the West butteth vpon Haâ—apshire 2 For forme it lyeth long and narrow so that all her Râ—pes doe runne quite through the Shire containeth from Weâ—â—harting in the West to Kent-ditch that diuides it from Kent in the East sixtie foure miles but in the broadest part little aboue twentie the whole in circumference about one hundred fiftie eight miles 3 The ayre is good though somewhat clouded with wists which arise forth of her South bordering Sea who is very prodigall vnto her for Fish and Sea-sowle though as sparing for Harbours or Ships ariuage and those which she hath as vncertaine for continuance as dangerous for entrance 4 Rich is the Soile and yeeldeth greatplentie of all things necessary but very ill for trauellers especially in the winter the Land lying low and the wayes very deepe whose middle tract is garnished with meadowes pastures and Corn-fields the Sea-coast with Hilles which are called the Downs abundantly yeelding both Graint and Grasse and the North side ouershadowed with pleasant Groues and thicke Woods where sometimes stood the famous wood Andradswald containing no lesse then an hundred and twentie miles in length and thirtie in bredth taking the name of Anderida a Citie adioyning both which were wonne from the Britaine 's by Llla the first Saxon King of this Prouince and the place made fatall to Sigebert King of the West-Saxons who being deposed from his Royall Throne was met in this Wood by a Swine-heard and slaine in reuenge of his Lord whom Sigebert had murdered 5 The ancient people in the Romans time were the Regni of whom we haue spoken and who were subdued by Vespasian the Leader of the second Legion vnder Aâ—lus Plautius Liceutenant in Britaine for Claudius the Emperour But after the departure of the Romanes this with Surrey was made the South-Saxons Kingdome yet that giuing place to the West-Saxons as they in time to the Normans it became a Prouince vnder the Conquerours power who gaue to his followers much Land in these parts 6 The place of most account in this Shire is Chichester by the Britaine 's called Caercei a Citie beautifull and large and very well walled about first built by Cissa the second King of the South-Saxons wherein his Royall palace was kept And when King William the First had enacted that Bishops Seas should be translated out of small Townes vnto places of greater resort the Residence of the Bishop vntill then held at Selsey was remoued to this Citie where Bishop Raulfe began a most goodly Cathedrall Church but before it was fully finished by a sudden mischance of fire was quite consumed Yet the same Bishop with the helping liberalitie of King Henry the First began it againe and saw it wholly finished whose beautie and greatnesse her fatall enemy still enuying againe cast downe in the dayes of King Richard the First and by her raging flames consumed the buildings both of it and the Bishops Palace adioyning which Seffrid the second Bishop of that name reedified and built a new And now to augment the honour of this place the Citie hath borne the Title of an Earledome whereof they of Arundell were sometimes so stiled Whose Gradustion for Latitude is remoued from the Equator vnto the degree fiftie fiftie fiue minutes and for Longitude obseruing the same point in the West whence Mercator hath measured are twentie degrees 7 With whom for frequencie bignesse and building the Towne Lewes seemeth to contend where King Athelstan appointed the mintage of his Moneyes and William de Warron built a strong Castle whereunto the disloyall Barons of King Henry the Third in warlike manner resorted and fought a great Battle against their owne Soueraigne and his sonne wherein the King had his Horse slaine vnder him Richard King of the Romans surprised and taken in a Wind-mill and Prince Edward deliuered vnto them vpon vnequall conditions of peace But a greater Battle was fought at Battle when the hazard of England was tryed in one dayes fight and Harold the King gaue place to his Conquerour by losing of his life among sixtie seuen thousand nine hundred seuentie-foure English men besides whose bloud so spilt gaue name to the place in French Sangue lac And the soile naturally after raine becomming of a reddish colour caused William of Newbery vntruely to write That if there fell any small sweet showers in the place where so great a slaughter of the English-men was made presently sweateth forth very fresh bloud out of the earth as if the euidence thereof did plainly declare the vaâ—ce of bloud there shed and cryed still from the earth vnto the Lord. 8 But places of other note in this Shire are these from Basham Earle Harold taking the Sea for his delight in a small Boat was driuen vpon the Coast of Normandie where by Duke William he was retained till he had sworne to make him King after Edward Confessors death which oath being broken the Bastard arriued at Pensey and with his sword reuenged that Periurie at West-Wittering also Ella the Saxon before him had landed for the conquering of those parts and gaue name to the shore from Cimen his son But with greater glory doth Gromebridge raise vp her head where Charles Duke of Orleaunce father to Lewes the twelfth King of France taken prisoner at Agincourt was there a long time detained 9 The commodities of this Prouince are many and diuers both in Corne Cattle Woods Iron and Glasse which two last as they bring great gaine to their possessors so doe they impouerish the Countie of Woods whose want will be found in ages to come if not at this present in some sort felt 10 Great haue beene the deuotions of religious Persons in building and consecrating many houses vnto the vse and onely seruice of Christ whose Beadmen abusing the intents of their Founders hath caused those Foundations to lament their owne ruines for in the tempestuous time of King Henry the Eight eighteene of them in this Countie were blowne downe whose fruit iell into the â—appes of some that neuer meant to restore them againe to the like vse SVRREY CHAPTER V. SVRREY by Beda called Suthri lieth separated vpon the North from the Counties of â—â—â—kingham and Miaâ—lesex by the great Riuer Thaâ—â—sâ—s vpon the East Kent doth inbound it vpon the South is held in with Sussex and Hampshire and her West part is bordered vpon by Hamp-shire and Bark-shire 2 The forme thereof is somewhat square and lieth by Northand by East whereof Redrith and Frensham are the opposites
betwixt whom are extended thirtie-foure miles The broadest part is from Awfold Southward to Thamisis by Stanes and them asunder twentie two the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelue miles 3 The Heauens breathing ayre in this Shire is most sweet and delectable so that for the same cause many royall Palaces of our Princes are therein seated and the Countrey better stored with game then with graine insomuch that this Countie is by some men compared vnto a home-spunne freeze cloth with a costly faire lift for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itselfe And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corne and Pasturage especially in Hâ—â—esdale and towards the Riuer of Thamisis 4 In this Shire the Regni an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie were seated whom he brancheth further thorow Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans gouernment when the Land was left to the will of Inuaders the South-Saxons vnder Ella here erected their Kingdome which with the first was raised and soonest found end From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suth-rey as seated vpon the South of the Riuer and now by contraction is called Surrey 5 And albeit the Countie is barren of Cities or Townes of great estate yet is she stored with many Princely Houses yea and fiue of his Majesties so magnificently built that of some she may well say no Shire hath none such as is None-such indeed And were not Richmond a fatall place of Englands best Princes it might in esteeme be ranked with the richest for therein died the great Conquerour of France King Edward the Third the beautifull Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth Emperour and intirely beloued wife to King Richard the Second the most wise Prince King Henry the Seuenth and the rarest of her Sexe the Mirrour of Princes Queene Elizabeth the worlds loue and Subiects joy 6 At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his vntimely end and at Lambeth the hardre Canute and last of the Danish Kings died among his Cuppes But as these places were fatall for the last breath of these Princes so other in this Countie haue beene graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarkes for in Chertsâ—y Abbey King Henry the Sixth who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London was first interred without all funerall pompe but for his holy life was imputed a Saint and lastly translated and intombed at Windsore At Kingston likewise stood the Chaire of Maiestic wherein Athelstan Edwin and Ethelred sate at their Coronation and first receiued their Seepter of Imperiall Power Guildforâ— likewise hath beene farre greater then now it is when the Place of our English-Saxon Kingâ— was therein set And seeing it is the midst of the Shire the Graduation from hence shall be obserued where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples 7 Neither can we account Okam and Ripley two small Villages the least in this Shire which haue brought forth the well knowne men William de Okam that deepe Philosopher and admirable Scholar and George de Ripley the rung leader of our Alchymists and mysticall impostors both of them borne in this Countie and very neere together But why speake I of these sith a place neerer to sight and greater for fame euen Lambeth is the High Seat of Ecclesiasticall Gouernment Pietie and Learning and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops the Metropolitanâ— of England First erected by Archbishop Daldwin and euer since hath beene the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church who in a long succession euen from Anno 596 haue continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches sterne Richard by Gods prouidence Lord Archbishop of that See a most faithfull and prudent Counsellor vnto King IAMES and a most learned and prouident Guide of our most flourishing Church whose gracious fauour vndeseruedly conferred vpon me hath beene a great encouragement to these my poore endeuours 8 Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest were Wembledon where when the fulnesse of prosperitie burst forth into Ciuill Dissensions among the Saxons a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheauâ—in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent wherein he was discomfited and two of his principall Leaders slaine about the yeare of Christ 560. and three hundred thirtie three yeares after King Elfred with a small power ouercame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this Countie which somewhat quelled the courage of his sauage enemy 9 Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the deuotion of Princes and set apart ffom publike vses to Gods Diuine Seruice and their owne Saluation as then was taught the best in account were Sbene Chertsey Merton Newarke Rygate Wauerley Horsleg and in Southwarke Bermundsey and S. Maries These all flourished with increase till the ripeâ—esse of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste vnto King HENRY the Eight that in beating the boughes he brake downe body and all ruinating those houses and seazing their rich possessions into his owne hands So jealous is GOD of his honour and so great vengeance followeth the sinne of Idolatrie HANT-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. HANT-SHIRE lying vpon the West of England Is bordered vpon the North by Barkshire vpon the East with Surrey and Sussex vpon the South with the British Seas and I le of Wight and vpon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shires 2 The length thereof from Blackwater in the North vpon Surrey vnto Bascomb in the South vpon the Sea extended in a right line is fiftie foure English miles and the breadth drawne from Peters-field in the East vnto Tidworth in the West and confines of Wilt-shire is little lesse then thirtie miles the whole Circumference about one hundred fiftie and fiue miles 3 The Aire is temperate though somewhat thicke by reason of the Seas and the many Riuers that thorow the Shire doe fall whose plentie of fish and fruitfull increase doe manifoldly redeeme the harmes which they make 4 The Soile is rich for Corne and Cattle pleasant for pasturage and plenteous for woods in a word in all commodities either for Sea or Land blessed and happy 5 Hauens it hath and those commodious both to let in and to loose out Ships of great burthen in trade of Merchandise or other imployments whereof Portsmouth Tichfield Hamble and South-hampton are chiefe besides many other creeks that open their bosomes into those Seas and the Coast strengthned with many strong Castles such as Hurst Calshot South-hampton S. Andrewes Worth Porchester and the South Castle besides other Bulwarkes or Blockhouses that secure the Country and further in the Land as Malwood Winchester and Odiam so strong that in the time of King Iohn thirteene English-men onely defended the Fort for fifteene dayes against Lewis of France that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly 6 Anciently it was possest vpon the North by the
ILAND CHAPTER VII VVIGHT ILAND was in times past named by the Romans Vecta Vectis and Vectesis by the Britaines Guyth and in these dayes vsually called by vs The I le of Wight It belongeth to the Countrie of South-hampton and lyeth out in length ouer against the midst of it South-ward It is encompassed round with the British Seas and seuered from the Maine land that it may seeme to haue beene conjoyned to it and thereof it is thought the Brittish name Guyth hath beene giuen vnto it which betokeneth separation euen as 〈◊〉 being broken off and cut from Italy got the name from Secando which signifieth cutting 2 The forme of this Isle is long and in the middest farre more wide then at eyther end from 〈◊〉 I le in the 〈◊〉 to 〈◊〉 Castle in the West it stretcheth out in length 20. miles and in 〈…〉 Northward to 〈…〉 Southward 12. miles The whole in circumference 〈…〉 3 The ayâ—e is commended both for health and delight whereof the first is witnessed by the 〈◊〉 continuance of the Inhabitants in the state of then bodies before they be decayed and the other for quantitie giues place to no neighbouring Country 4 The ground to say nothing of the Sea which is exceeding full of fish consisteth of soile very fruitfull yet the husbandmans labour deserues to be thankfully remembred by whose paines and industry it doth not onely supply it selfe but affords â—orne to be carryed forth to others The â—and is plenteously stored with Cattle and Graine and breeds euery where store of Conies Hares Patridges and Phesants pleasant for medow pasturage and Parkes so that nothing is wanting that may suffice man The middest yeelds plentie of pasture and forrage for Sheepe whose wooll the Clothiers esteeme the best next vnto that of Leinster and Cotteswold If you cast your eyes towards the North it is all ouer garnished with Meadowes Pastures and Woods If towards the South side it lyeth in a manner wholy bedecked with Cornefields enclosed where at each end the Sea doth so incroachâ—t selfe that it maketh almost two Ilands besides namely Fresh-water Isle which looketh to the West and Bâ—nbridge isle answering it to the East 5 The Commodities of the whole chiefly consist of Cattle Sea fowle Fish and Corne whereof it hath sufficient Woods are not here very plentifull for that it is onely stored with one little Forrest yet the Country of Hamshire for vicinitie of Site is a friendly neighbour in that behalfe so as it were being tyed together in affinitie they are alwayes readie and propense to adde to each others wants and defects by a mutuall supply 6 The ancient Inhabitants of this Iland were the Belga spoken of in the seuerall Prouinces of Sâ—merset-shire Wilt-shire and Hamshire Such as did then possesse it were called Lords of the Isle of wight till it fell into the Kings hands by Râ—ger Sonne to William Fits Osburne slaine in the warre of Flanders that was driuen into exile And Henry the first King of England gaue it vnto Richard Riduers with the see or Inheritance of the Towne of Christs-Church where at in all other places he built certaine Fortrestes 7 The principall Market-Towne in the Isle is Newport called in times past Medena and Novus Burgus de Meden that is the new Burgh of Meden whereof the whole Countrey is diuided into East Meden and West Meden A Towne well seated and much frequented vnto whose Burgesles his Majestie hath lately granted the choyse of a Major who with his Brethren doe gouerne accordingly It is populous with Inhabitants hauing an entrance into the Isle from the Hauen and a passage for Vessels of small burden vnto the Key Not farre from it is the Castle Caresbrooke whose founder is said to haue beene Whitgar the Saxon and from him called White-Garesburgh but now made shorter for easier pronunciation the graduation whereof for Latitude is in the degree 50. 36. minutes and her Longitude in 19. 4. minutes where formerly hath stood a Priory and at Quarre a Nunnery a necessary neighbour to those Penitentiaries And yet in their merry mood the Inhabitants of this Iland doe boast that they were happier then their neighbour Countries for that they neuer had Monke that euer wore hood Lawyers that cauilled nor Foxes that were craftie 8 It is reported that in the yeare of mans saluation 1176. and twentie-three of King Henry the second that in this Iland it rained a showre of bloud which continued for the space of 2 houres together to the great wonder and amazement of the people that beheld it with feare 9 This Isle of Wight is fortified both by Art and Nature for besides the strength of Artificiall Forts and Blocke-houses wherewith it is well furnished it wants not the assistance of naturall Fences as being enriched with a continuall ridge and range of craggy Cliffes and Rockes and Bankes very dangerous for Saylers as the Needles so called by reason of their sharpnesse The Shingles Mixon Brambles c. 10 Vespasian was the first that brought it to the subiection of the Romaenes whilest he serued as a priuate person vnder Claudius Caesar And Cerdic was the first English Saxon that subdued it who granting it vnto Sâ—uffe and Whitgar they joyntly together slew almost all the Brittish Inhabitants being but few of them there remaining in the Towne aforesaid called of his Name Whitgaresburgh Wolpher King of the Merciam reduced this Iland afterwards vnder his obedience and at that time when he became God-father to Edelwalch King of the South-Saxons and answered for him at his Baptisme he assigned it ouer vnto him with the Prouince also of the Menuari But when Edelwalch was slaine and Aruandus the petty King of the Iland was made away Coedwalla King of the West-Saxons annexed it to his Dominion and in a tragicall and lamentable Massacre put to the sword almost euery mothers childe of the in-borne Inhabitants The thing that is best worthy note and obseruation is this That Bishop Wilfrid was the first that instructed the Inhabitants of this Iland in Christian Religion and brought them from Idolatrous Superstition with the which vnto that time they were obscurely blinded DORCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER VIII DORCESTER from her ancient people DVROTRIGES is most likely to haue receiued that name by the Britaine 's called DVVRGVVEIR lyeth bounded vpon the North-side with Somerset and Wâ—lt-shire vpon the West with Dâ—â—â—shire and some part with Somerset vpon the East altogether with Hampshire and her South part is wholly bounded with the British Seas 2 The forme growes wider from the West and spreads her selfe the broadest in the midst where it extends to twentie-foure miles but in length is no lesse then fortie-foure the whole in Circumference about is one hundred and fiftie miles 3 The ayre is good and of an healthfull constitution the soyle is fat affording many commodities and the Countrey most pleasant in her situation for the In-land is watered with many sweet and fresh running Springs
wooddy and fruitfull yet so as the hand of the Manurer must neuer be idle nor the purse of the Farmer neuer fast shut especially of them that are farre from the Sea whence they fetch a sand with charge and much trauell which being spread vpon the face of the earth bettereth the leannesse thereof for graine and giueth life to the Glebe with great efficacy 4 As Cornwall so this hath the same commodities that arise from the Seas and being more inlanded hath more commodious Hauens for Shâ—ppings entercourse among whom Totnes is famous for Brutes first entrance if Geffry say true or if Hauâ—llan the Poet tooke not a Poeticall libertie when speaking of Brute he wrote thus The Gods did guide his sayle and course the winds were at command And Totnes was the happie shoare where first he came on land But with more credit and lamentable euent the Danes at Teigne-mouth first entred for the inuasion of this Land about the yeare of Christ 787. vnto whom Brightrik King of the West-Saxons sent the Steward of his house to know their intents whom resistantly they slew yet were they forced backe to their Ships by the Inhabitants though long they stayed not but eagerly pursued their begun enterprises With more happie successe hath Plimouth set forth the purchasers of same and stopped the entrance of Englands Inuaders as in the Raigne of that eternized Queene the mirrour of Princes Elizabeth of euerlasting memory for from this Port Sir Francis Drake that potent man at Sea setting forth Anno 1577 in the space of two yeares and ten moneths did compasse the circle of the earth by Sea And the Lord Charles Howard Englands high Admirall did not onely from hence impeach the entrance of the proud inuincible Spanish Nauy intending inuasion and subuersion of State but with his Bullets so signed their passage that their sides did well shew in whose hands they had beene as seales of their owne shame and his high honour 5 The commodities of this Shire consist much in Wools and Clothings where the best and finest Kersies are made in the Land Corne is most plenteous in the fruitfull Vallies and Cattle spreading vpon the topped Hils Sea Fish and Fowle exceedingly abundant Veynes of Lead yea and some of Siluer in this Shire are found and the Load-stone not the least for vse and esteeme from the Rocks vpon Dart-more hath beene taken Many fresh Springs doe bubble from the Hils in this Prouince which with a longing desire of Socretie search out their passage till they meete and conjoyne in the Vallies and gathering still strength with more branches lastly grow bodyed able to beare Ships into the Land and to lodge them of great burthen in their Bosomes or Fals whereof Tamar Taue and Ex are the fairest and most commodious 6 Vpon which last the chiefe Citie and Shire-Towne of this Countie is seated and from that Riuer hath her name Excester this Citie by Ptolemie is called Isâ—a by the 〈…〉 Emperour Isâ—a Danmoniorum and by the We so 〈◊〉 It is pleasantly seated vpon the gentle â—scent of an hill so stately for building so rich with 〈…〉 strangers that a man can desire nothing but 〈…〉 The walls of this Citie first built by King 〈…〉 but towards the Ex rangeth almost in a straight line hauing six Gates for entrance and many 〈…〉 betwixt whose compasse containeth about fifteene hundred paces vpon the East part of this Citie standeth a Castle called Rugemont sometimes the Palace of the West-Saxon Kings and after them of the Earles of Cornwall whose prospect is pleasant vnto the 〈…〉 magnificent Cathedrall Church founded by King Athelstan also in the honour of S. Peter and by Edward the Confessor made the Bishops See which the remoued from 〈…〉 in this Countie vnto the Citie of Excester as saith the priuate History of that place whose â—â—â—apidations the reuerend Father in God William now Bishop of the Diocesse with great cost hath repaired whom I may not name without a most thankfull remembrance for the great benefits receiued by his carefull prouidence toward me and mine This Citie was so strong and so well stored of Britaines that they held out against the Saxons for 465. yeares after their first entrance and was not absolutely 〈◊〉 vntill Athelstan became Monarch of the whole who then peopled it with his Saxons and 〈◊〉 the beautie thereof with many faire buildings but in the times of the Danish desolations this Citie with the rest felt their destroying hands for in the yeare 875. it was by them fore afflicted spoyled and shaken and that most grieuously by Swane in the yeare of Christ Iesus 1003. who razed it downe from East to West so that scarcely had it gotten breath before William the bastard of Normandy besieged it against whom the Citizens with great manhood serued till a part of the wall fell downe of it selfe and that by the hand of Gods prouidence saith mine Author since when it hath beene three times besieged and with valiant resistance euer defended The first was by Hugh Courtney Earle of Deuenshire in the Ciuill broyles betwixt Lancaster and Yorke then by Perbin Warbeck that counterfeited Richard Duke of Yorke and lastly by the Cornish Rebels wherein although the Citizens were grieuously pinched with scarsitie yet continued they their faithfull allegeance vnto King Edward the sixt and at this day flourisheth in tranquillitie and wealth being gouerned by a Major twentie-foure Brethren with a Recorder Towne-Clerke and other Officers their Attendants This Cities graduation is set in the degree of Latitude from the North-Pole 50. and 45. scruples and for Longitude from the West to the degree 16. and 25. scruples Neither is Ioseph that excellent Poet whose birth was in this Citie the least of her Ornaments whose Writings bare so great credit that they were divulged in the Germane language vnder the name of Cornelius Nepos The like credit got Crediton in her birth-child Winefred the Apostle of the Hassians Thuringers and Frisians of Germany which were conuerted by him vnto the Gospell and knowledge of Christ 7 Places memorable in this Countie remaining for signes of Battles or other antiquities are these vpon Exmore certaine Monuments of Anticke-worke are erected which are stones pitched in order some triangle-wise and some in round compasse these no doubt were trophies of victories there obtained eyther by the Romans Saxons or Danes and with Danish letters one of them is inscribed giuing direction to such as should trauell that way Hublestowe likewise neere vnto the mouth of Tawe was the buriall place of Hubba the Dane who with his Brother Hungar had harried the English in diuers parts of the Land but lastly was there encountred with and slaine by this Shires Inhabitants and vnder a heape of copped stones interred and the Banner Reasen there and then taken that had so often beene spread in the Danes quarrell and wherein they reposed no small confidence for successe 8 A double dignitie remaineth in
thereof it scarce giues place to any Citie of England and doth worthily deserue the Saxon name Bright-stad whose pleasantnesse is the more by reason that the Riuer Auon scowres through the midst of it which together with the benefit of Sewes vnder all the streets cleares the Citie of all noysome filth and vncleannesse It is not wholly seated in this Countie of Sommerset but one part thereof in Gloucestershire but because it is an entire Countie of it selfe it denyes subiection vnto eyther hauing for its owne gouernment both a Bishop with a well furnished Colledge and a Major with a competent assistance of Aldermen and other Officers for Ciuill affaires 8 This Prouince hath beene the Theater of many Tragicall euents and bloudy Battels the Danes did grieuously afflict Porlock by cruell Piracies in the yeare eight hundred eightâ—e sixe Yet neere vnto Pen a little village â—eighbouring vpon North Cadbury Edmund surnamed Iron-side gaue them a notable soyle as he was pursuing Caâ—â—tus from place to place for vsurping the Crowne of England And Keniwalth a West-Saxon in the same place had such a day against the â—ritaines that they euer after stood in awe of the English-Saxons prowesse Marianus relateth that not farre from Bridge-water as the Dâ—â—es were stragling abroad Ealstan Bishop of Sherbourne did so foyle their Forces in the yeare 845 as their minds were much discomfited and their powers vtterly disabled Niâ—ius also writeth that King Arthur did so defeat the English-Saxons in a battell at Cadbury that it deserued to be made perpetuously memorable Neither is Moâ—s Badonicus now Bannesdowne lesse famous for Arthurs victories And King Elfred in another battell not farre from hence gaue the Danes such an ouerthrow as he forced them to submission and induced Godrus their King to become a Christian himselfe being God-father to him at the â—ont So happie is this Region and so beholding to Nature and Art for her strengths and fortifications as she hath alwayes beeene able to defend her selfe and offend her enemies 9 Neither hath it beene lesse honoured with beauteous houses consecrated to Religion such was that of Black-Charons at Barelinch in the first limit of this Shire Westward and King Athelstan built a Monastery in an Iland called Muchelney that is to say the great Iland which is betweene the Riuers Iuel and Pedred running together where the defaced walles and ruines thereof are yet to be seene King Henry the third also erected a Nunnery at Witham which was afterwards the first house of the Carthusian Monkes in England as Hinâ—â—n not far off was the second But aboue all other for antiquitie glory and beautie was the Abbey of Glasteâ—bury whose beginning is fetcht euen from Ioseph of A â—â—athea which Deni Bishop of S. Dauids repaired being fallen to ruine and King Inas lastly builded a fayre and stately Church in this Monastery though it be now made euen with the ground the ruines onely shewing how great and magnificant a Seat it hath anciently beene which seuerall houses were thus beautified by bounteous Princes for religious purposes and to retire the mind from worldly seruices though blinded times and guides diuerted them to superstitious and lewd abuses 10 Other memorable places are these Camalâ—t a very steepe hill hard to be ascended which appeares to haue beene a worke of the Romans by diuers Coynes digd vp there on the top whereof are seene the lineaments of a large and ancient Castle which the Inhabitants report to haue beene the Palace of King Arthur Ilchester which at the comming of the Normans was so populouâ— that it had in it an hundred and seuen Burgesâ—es and it appeares to be of great antiquitie by the Romane Caesars Coynes oftentimes sound there The Church yard of Aualonia or Glastenbury whâ—re King Arthurs Sepulcher was searcht for by the command of King Henry the second which was found vnder a stone with an Inscription vpon it fastned almost nine foote in the ground Also Dunstere where as is reported a great Lady obtained of her husband so much Pasture ground in common by the Towne side for the good and benefit of the Inhabitants as she was able in a whole day to goe about bare-foote VVILT-SHIRE CHAPTER XII VVILT-SHIRE is enclosed vpon the Northwith Glocester-shire vpon the East is bounded with Bark-shire vpon the South with Dorset and Hampshire and vpon the West is confronted against partly by Glocester and the rest by Somerset shires 2 The forme thereof â—s both long and broad for from Inglesham vpon Thamisis in the North to Burgat Damarum in the South are thirtie nine miles the broadest part is from Buâ—termer Eastward to the Shire-stones in the West being twentie nine the whole in Circumference is one hundred thirtie nine miles 3 For Ayre it is seated in a temperate Climate both sweet pleasant and wholesome and for soile saith Iohn of Sarisbury is exceeding fertile and plentifull yea and that with vaâ—ietie 4 The Northerne part which they call North Wilt shire riseth vp into delectable hilles attired with large Woods and watered with cleare Riuers whereof Isis is one which soone becommeth the most famous in the Land The South part is more euen yeelding abundently grasse and corne and is made the more fruitfull by the Riuers Wily Adder and Auâ—n The midst of this Countie is most plaine and thereby is knowne and commonly called Salesbury 〈◊〉 and lie so leuall indeed that it doth limit the Horizon or hardly can a man see from the one side to the other These Plaines grase an infinite number of sheepe whose fleeces and flesh bring in an yearely reuenew to their owners 5 Anciently this Countie was possessed by the Belga who are seated by Ptolemie in Hampshire Somerset shire and in this Tract and they as it seemeth by Casar were of the Belga in Gaul These as some hold were subdued by Vespasian Lieutenant of the second Legion under Claudius when the foundations of his future greatnesse were in these parts first laid by his many Victories ouer the Britaines And herein surely the Romans seated for besides Yanâ—sburie Trench by Tradition held to be his in many other Forts in this Shire the Tract of their footing hath beene left and the stamped Coines of their Emperours found an apparent testimony of their abode 6 After them the West-Saxons made it a part of their Kingdome whole border was Auon as witnesseth Athelward though the Mercians many times encroched vpon them whereby many great Battles as Malmesbury tels vs betwixt them were fought when in the young yeares of their Heptarchie each sought to enlarge his by the lessening of the next but growne vnto more ripenesse they assigned their limits by a great and long ditch crossing thorow the middest of these Plaines which for the wonder thereof is supposed by the vulgar to be the worke of the Deuill and is called of all Wansdike vndoubtedly of Woden the Saxons Ancestor and great reputed God where a little village yet standeth and
retaineth to name Wodens-burg At this place in Anno 590. Ceaulin the West-Saxon receiued such a foyle of the Britaines and his Countrey-men that he was forced to forsake his Kingdome and to end his dayes in exile becomming a pittifull spectacle euen vnto his enemies And in this place Ina the West-Saxon joyned Battle with Ceolred the Mercian whence both of them departed with equall losse The like was at Bradford by Keâ—â—lwach and Cuthred at Wilton betwixt Egbert and Beornwolfe at Edindon where King Elfred was vanquisher of the Danes and at Wilton where the Danes wonne the day against him With as bloudy successe though not happening by sword was the issue of that Synod assembled at Colne a small Towne in this Countie in the yeare of Christ Iesus 977 where being hotly debating for the single life and against the marriages of the Clergie what wanted by the Word to proue their diuorce was supplyed by a Stratagem and that very bloudy for suddenly the maine timber brake and downe fell the floore with the Nobles and Prelates the Gentlemen and Commons whereby a great number were hurt and many more slaine onely Dunstan the President and mouth for the Monkes escaped vntouched the Ioist whereon his Chaire stood remaining most firme which confirmed the sentence of their separations whom God had conioyned and became the fall and snare of much incontinencie in both sexes 7 The chiefest Citie of this Shire is Salesburie remoued from a higher but a farre more conuenient place whose want of water was not so great in the mother as is supplied and replenished in the daughter euery street almost hauing a Riuer running thorow her middest and for sumptuous and delicate buildings is inferiour to none The Cathedrall a most rich magnificent Church was begun by Richard Poore Bishop and with fortie yeares continuante was raised to her perfect beautie wherein are as many windowes as there are dayes in the yeare as many cast pillars of Marble as there are houres in the yeare and as many gates for entrance as there are moneths in the yeare Neither doth this Citie retaine true honour to her selfe but imparteth hers and receiueth honour from others who are intituled Earles of Salesburie whereof eight noble Families haue beene dignified since the Normans Câ—â—quest This Cities situation is in the degree of Latitude 51. 10 minutes and from the first West point obserued by Mercator 18 Degrees and 31. minutes of Longitude 8 Ouer this old Salesburie sheweth it selfe where Kâ—nâ—â—k ouercame the Britaines and where Canutus the Dane did great dammage by fire This formerly had beene the Seat of the Romans as likewise was Lecham as by their Coines digged vp is apparant so were Brokenbridge and Cosham the Courts of the Saxon Kings But Fortune long since hath turned her face from all these as lately she did from many ancient and religious foundations planted in this Prouince whereof Malâ—â—esburie was the most famous I will not with Monmouth auouch the foundation thereof vnto Mulmutius but by true Records from Maidulph a Scot a man of great learning that therein built a Cell and lead an Hermits life whereof Beda calleth it the Citie of Maidulph and we by contraction Malmesburie Adelme his Disciple and Successor built here a faire Monastery which Athelstan the Monarch richly endowed and left his body after death there to rest Neither hath any graced this more then William her Monke in recording to posterities the Chronicles of our Land concerning both the Church and Common-weale wherein himselfe liued and wrote those Histories 9 Ambresburie for repute did second this built by Aâ—fritha King Edgar his wife to expiate the sinne of murder which she committed vpon yong Edward her sonne in law that hers might be King In this place Queene Eleanor widow to King Henry the third renounced all royall pompe and deuoted her selfe vnto God in the habit of a Nunne Other places erected for pietie were at Salesburie Lacock Stanley Wilton Luichurch Farnleg Bradstole Briopune and Brombore These grafts growne to full greatnesse were cut downe by the Pruiner least the cankers thereof should infect the whole body as by them was alledged and their Reuenewes bestowed vpon farre better vses both for the bringing vp of youth and the maintenance of estate BARK-SHIRE CHAPTER XIII BARK-SHIRE whether of the Eoâ—-woods there sited according to the censure of Asserius Meneuensis or from a naked and beare-lesse Oke-tree whereunto the people vsually resorted in troublesome times to conferte for the State I determine not onely the Countie a long time hath beene so called and bounded with other in manner as followeth The North-part is parted by Thamisis from Buckingham and Oxford-shires the South neere Kennet doth tract vpon Hampshire the East is confined with the Countie of Surrey and the West with Wiltshire and Glocestershire is held in 2 The forme of this Shire doth somewhat resemble a Sandall for a mans foot lying long-wise from East to West in which part she is broadest the middle most narrow and then spreading wider like to the heele though for her rich endowments and stately magnificence it may be well accounted the heart of the whole 3 The length thereof from Inglesham in the West to old Windsor in the East extendeth vnto fortie miles from Inkpen to Wightham the broadest part from South to North are twentie-foure the whole in Circumference about one hundred and twentie miles 4 The Ayre is temperate sweet and delightfull and prospect for pleasure inferiour to none the Soile is plenteous of corne especially in the Vale of White-horse that yeeldeth yearely an admirable encrease In a word for Corne and Cattle Waters and Woods of profit and pleasure it giues place vnto none 5 Her ancient Inhabitants by Ptolemie and Caesar were the Attrebatâ— and them of those that descended from Gallia among whom Comius conquered by the Dictator was of good respect and could doe much with the Britaines who as Frontinus reporteth vsed this stratagem though it proued nothing at last he flying before Caesar to recouer ayd of these Attrebatians light bedded vpon a shelfe in the Sea whereupon hoysting his sailes as before a fore-winde gaue shew to his pursuer that they were in swift flight so that hopelesse to hayle them he gaue ouer the chase yet no sooner had Caesar made ouer among them but that some of these people by name the Bibroces yeelded him subiection which prued the ruine of all former libertie But when the Romans had rent their owne Empire and retired their Legion into a narrower circuit the Saâ—â—ns set foot where their forces had beene and made this Countie a parcell of their Westerne Kingdome The Danes then setting their desire vpon spoiles from their â—oauing Pinnaces pierced into these parts and at Redding fortified themselues betwixt the Riuers Kennet and Thamâ—â—sis whither after their great ouerthrow receiued at Ingeâ—efield by the hand of King Ethelwolfe they retyred for their further safetie 6 This Towne King
lye a little desolate Citie and as yet retaineth the name without any memory of circuit by wals Of this Citie in the yeare of Christ Iesus 141. as the Monke of Barton doth report nine Scholars receiued their Baptisme and became Preachers of the Gospell among the Britaines which as he saith happened in the Raigne of Hadriant the Emperour But when the 〈◊〉 Stors Hisâ—nes and Saxons had laid all things waste and with their sauage swords cut out the leaues of all ciuill learning this as the rest yeelded to destruction and so lay forlorne till the Saxons themselues became likewise ciuill when Sâ—gebert the first Christian King of the East-Angles from the example of France whither he had beene banished built Schooies in his Kingdome and here at Grancester the chiefe recalling thither the Professors of Arts and Sciences as the Story recordeth and Traditions doe hold But afterwards as it seemeth their increase being straightned the Students complained as the Prophets did to Elisha that the place was too little for them to dwell in therefore inlarging more North-ward seated themselues neere vnto the Bridge whereupon the place began to be called Grantbridge though others from the crooked Riuer Came will haue it named Cambridge This place though sacred and exempted from Mars as Sylla once spake when he spared Athens the Danes in their destructions regarded no whit wherein they often wintered after their spoyles and left the scatres of their sauage sores euer behinde them And in the yeare 1010 when Suen in his fiercenesse bare downe all before him this place was no place for Scholars to be in Warres loud Alarums ill consorting the Muses milde Harmonies Yet when the Normans had got the Garland on their heads and these Danish stormes turned into Sun-shine dayes Gislebert the Monke with Odo Terricus and William all three of the like Monasticall Profession in the Raigne of King Henry the First resorted vnto this place and in a publike Barne read the Lectures of Grammar Logicke and Rhetoricke and Gislebert Diuinitie vpon the Sabbath and Festiuall dayes From this little fountaine saith Peter Blessensis grew a great Riuer which made all England fruitfull by the many Masters Teachers proceeding out of Cambridge as out of a holy Paradise of God The first Colledge therein endowed with Possessions was Peter-house built by Hugh Balsham Bishop of Ely in the yeare of Grace 1284. whose godly example many others followed so that at this day there are sixteene most stately Colledges and Hals for building beautie endowments and store of Students so replenished that vnlesse it be in her other Sister Oxford the like are not found in all Europe But at what time it was made an Vniuersitie let Robert de Remyngton tell you for me Do the Raigne saith he of King Edward the first Grantbridge of a Schoole by the Court of Rome was made an Vniuersitie such as Oxford is Lastly the Meridian Line cutting the Zenith ouer this Citie is distant from the furthest West-poynt according to Mercator 20 degrees 50 scruples and the Arch of the same Meridian lying betweene the Aequator and Verticall point is 52. degrees 20 scruples 5 Another Citie formerly in great fame is Elie had in account for the repute and holinesse of Votary Nunnes there residing built first by Audrey wife to one Tombret a Prince in this Prouince who had this place as a part of her Dowry she hauing departed from her second Husband Egbert King of Northumberland deuoted her selfe to the seruice of God and built here a Monastery whereof she became the first Abbesse This in the Danish desolations was destroyed but soone after reedified by Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester who stored it with Monkes vnto whom King Edgar granted the iurisdiction ouer foure Hundreds and a halfe within these Fennes and the East-Angles limits which to this day are called The Liberties of S. Audrey after whose example many Nobles so enriched it with large Renexewes that as Malmesbury saith the Abbat thereof laid vp yeerely in his owne Coffers a thousand and foure hundred pounds And of latter times the Monkes thereof became so wealthy that their old decayed Church they renued with new and most stately buildings which is now the Cathedrall of the Diocesse and for beautie giueth place to no other in the Land Eight other foundations set apart from secular vse in this Prouince were at Thorney Charteres Denny Elsey Beach Barnwell Swasey and Shengey all which in the dayes of King Henry the eight came to the period of their surpassing wealth and left their Lands to the dispose of his Will 6 The generall commoditie of this Shire is Corne which in the South and Champion-part doth abundantly grow as also Saffron a very rich Spice Some Woods there are and Pasture both pleasant and profitable The North part thereof is Fenny but withall fruitfull whereof Henry of Huntington and William of Malinesbury thus doe write This Fenny Country is passing rich and plenteous yea and beautifull also to behold whereiwis so great store of fish that strangers doe wonder and water-fowle so cheape that fiue men may therewith be satisfied with lesse then an halfe-penny 7 Places of ancient note in this Shire are these the Erminstreet way which vpon the lower West parts of this County thorow Roisen runneth forthright vnto Huntingdon And from Reach a Market-Towne standing neere to the Riuer Came a great Ditch and Trench is cast all along Newmarket-Heath which for the wonder receiued thereat is of the vulgar called The Deuâ—â— Ditch being in truth made for a defence against the Mercians by the East-Angles whose Kingdome it inuerged The Gogmagog Hils neere Cambridge retaine the remembrance of the Danish Siaetion where as yet on their tops is seene a Rampior strengthened with a three-fold Trench whereof Goruase of Tillury tels vs many a pretio Tale. HERTFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XIX HERTFORD-SHIRE is bordered vpon the North with Bedford and Cambridge-shires vpon the East is altogether bounded by Essex vpon the South is confined with Middlesex and her West butteth vpon Buckingham and Bedford-shires 2 The forme thereof is somwhat circular with many indents to fetch in those Townes that are dispersedly stragled into her next Shire whereof Roiston and Totteridge are the two extreames from North to South betwixt whom in a strait drawne line are twenty seuen English miles and from Putnam Westward to Cheston Nunnery in the East are twenty eight the whole circumference about an hundred and thirtie miles 3 The ayre is temperate sweet and healthfull as seated in a Climate neither too hot nor too cold the soile is rich plenteous and delightfull yeelding abundance of Corne Cattle Wood and Grasse destitute of nothing that ministreth profit or pleasures for life which are more augmented by the many Riuers that arise and run thorow this Shire watering her owne and others till they emptie themselues into the Sea 4 Her ancient Inhabitants in the time of the Romans were the Cattieuchlanians or Cassijans
and the Trinobantes as their Writers declare and in the Heptarâ—hy was possessed by the East-Saxons excepting some small portion thereof that the Mercian Kings enioyned The Danes also in their ouer-runnings sought to stay themselues in this Shire and at Ware then Weare pitched downe their rest and hope for passing the Lea in their light Pinnaces and Shallops raised therein a Fort which maugre the English they kept vntill that by the wise police of King Elfred that Riuer was parted into to more running streames whereby their Ships perished and they intercepted both of prouision and farther supply 5 The Romans before them had made Verolaxium in this Shire their greatest for account which in Neroes time was a Municipiall as Nimus in his Catalogue of Cities doth call it or as Tacitus a Free Towne sacked by Boduo that euer eternized Queene of the Ictanians when seuenty thousand of the Romans and Consecrates by her reuenging sword perished the site and circuit whereof in this Card we haue set according to our view and measure there taken whose magnificence for Port and stately Architecture were found by her large and arched Vaults in the dayes of King Edgar which were digged into and cast downe by 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 Abbots of S. Albanes for that they were the receptacles and lurking holes of 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 the ruines of which haue raised the beautie of her suruiuing and faire S. Albanes where 〈◊〉 the great Mercian in great deuotion built a most stately 〈◊〉 whose Church yet standing retaineth the ashes of many Nobles there slaine in the quarrell of Yorke and Lancaster and a Font of solid brasse brought out of Scotland by Sir Richara Lea from the siege of Lâ—eth 6 Many other Townes both for Commerce stately Buildings and of ancient Record this Shire affordeth whereof Hertford though the Shire-Towne is not the richest the passage thorow Ware hath left her wayes so vntrodden to preuent which in former times that Riuer at Ware was chained vp and the Bayliffe of Hertford had the custody of the Key which howsoeuer they haue lost yet hath the Towne gotten her Gouernour to be preferred from the name of a Bilisse vnto a Maior assisted with nine Burgâ—sses a Recorder and two Sergeants their Attendants Herein a Castle for situation pleasant for Trench Walles and Riuer sufficiently fenced was lately seene but marked to destinie as the Towne to decay hath found the hand of Fortune to ouermatch her strength and to ruinate the Priory S. Nicholas and S. Maries Churches besides a Cell of S. Albanes Monkes that therein were seated The like fate fals vnto Hemsled and her faire Castle wherein Richard King of the Romans left his life Yet Lingely is graced both in the birth of Prince Edmund the fifth sonne to King Edward the third and the buriall of Richard the second that vnfortunate King who in the Cell of Fryers Preachers was there first buried but afterwards remooued and enshrined at Westminster And in another Langley neere the East from thence was borne that Pontificall Break-speare Bishop of Rome knowne by the name of Hadrian the fourth and famous for his stirrup-holding by Fredericke the Emperour whose breath was lastly stopped by a Flie that flew into his mouth 7 The ciuill Battles that in this Shire haue beene sought in the Map it selfe are inserted and therefore here omitted but the more ancient remembred vnto vs by Osister-hill neere S. Albans whom the judicious Combden supposeth to haue beene the Campe of Ostorius the second Lieutenant and Subdueâ— of great Caractatus as also seuen small round Hils betwixt Sieuennedge and Kuâ—â—worth in which are supposed some Romane Souldiers to lie buried 8 Religious Houses built and suppressed the chiefest for account in this Shire were S. Albans Roâ—ston Ware Sopwell Langeley besides them at Hertford whom Beda cals Horudford which Cities graduation is distant and remoued from the Equator 52. degrees 5. minutes of Latitude and set from the first point of the West according to Mercator in the 20 degree 29. minutes of Longitude The â—â—â—domes whereof were enioyed onely by thoâ—â— two honourable 〈◊〉 whose atchieuements we haue also therein expressed BEDFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XX. BEDFORD-SHIRE seated in the South-East of this Iland is a plaine and champion Country and lyeth bounded vpon the North with Huntington-shire vpon the East with Cambridge and Hartford-shires vpon the South with Hartford and Buckingham-shires and vpon the West with Buckingham and Northampton-shires 2 The forme thereof is somwhat ouall and not very large for from Tilbroke in the North vnto Stuâ—â—am in the South are but twentie-foure English miles and from Turny in the West vnto Hatley Coking in the East are not fully foureteene the whole in Circumference about seauenty three miles 3 The Ayre is temperate and the Soile bounteous especially the North whose Borders the fruitfull Ouse with her many windings watereth The South is more leane and with greater industry bringeth forth Barley no better else-where Generally this County is Champion though some places be sprinkled with Pasturage and Woods 4 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes that held in this Shire were part of the Cattieuchlani a stout and warre-strring people and yet vpon the report of Caesars proceeding sent him their subiection for peace But when that conquering Nation had brought Britaine into a Prouince vnder Rome their Legions lay at Selenae and Magintum which are now Sandy and Dunstable places of memorable note in this Shire After them the Saxons coueting for so faire a Seate first dispossessed the Britaines vnder the leading of Cuthwulfe the West-Saxon about the yeare of Grace 572. who making it their owne was lastly enioyed by the Mercians as a part of their Kingdome 5 In the yeare of Christs Incarnation 1399 immediately before those Ciuill Warres that rent in pieces the peace of this Land betweene the Princes of Lancaster and Yorke the Riuer Ouse neere vnto Harwood stood sodainly still and refrained to passe any farther so that forward men passed three miles together on foot in the very depth of her Channell and backward the waters swelled vnto a great height which was obserued by the judicious to foretell some vnkinde diuision that shortly should arise 6 This Countie among the common calamities of the Land when it lay trampied vnder the fect of the Danes sustained a part and after that in the time of King Stephen when the Ciuill Warres thundred betwixt Maud the Empresse and himselfe the Shire-Towne was sore wasted with great slaughter of men So when the Barons forsooke their allegeance to King Iohn the Towne and Castle were rendred vp vnto their hands and lastly by King Henry the third laid leuell euen with the ground some ruinous walles appearing towards the Ouse but not a stone left vpon the Mount where stood his foundation 7 This Towne by the Britaine 's was called Lettidur and of vs Bedford being the chiefest in the Countie from whom it taketh the name and is most fruitfull and
the onely Vniuersities then in Europe should be erected Schooles for the Hebrew Greeke Arabicke and Chaldean tongues and that Oxford should be the generall Vniuersitie for all England Ireland Scotland and Wales which point was likewise of such weight with the Councell of Constance that from this precedent of Oxford Vniuersitie it was concluded that the English Nation was not onely to haue precedence of Spaine in all Generall Councels but was also to be held equall with France it selfe By which high prerogatiues this of ours hath alwayes so flourished that in the dayes of King Henry the 〈◊〉 thirtie thousand Students were therein resident as Archbishop Armachanus who then liued 〈◊〉 writ and â—…ger then also liuing sheweth that for all the ciuill warres which hindered such 〈◊〉 of quiet studie yet 15000. Students were there remaining whose names saith he were 〈◊〉 in matricula in the matriculation booke About which time Iohn Baltol the father of Baltol King of Scots built a Colledge yet bearing his name Anno 1269. and Walter Merton Bishop of Rochester that which is now called Merton Colledge both of them beautified with buildings and enriched with lands and were the first endowed Colledges for learning in all Christendome And at this present 〈◊〉 sixteene Colledges besides another newly builded with eight Hals and many most 〈…〉 Churches all adorned with most stately buildings and enriched with great endowments noble Libraries and most learned Graduates of all professions that vnlesse it be her sister Cambridge the other nursing breast of this Land the like is not sound againe in the world This Citie is also honoured with an Episcopall See As for the site thereof it is remoued from the Equator in the degree 52. and one minute and from the West by Mercators measure 19. degrees and â—0 minutes 8 As this Countie is happie in the possession of so famous an Academie so is it graced with most Princely Palaces appertaining to the English Crowne whereof Woodstocke is the most ancient and magnificent built to that glory by King Henry the first and enlarged with a Labyrinth of many windings by King Henry the second to hide from his jealous Iuno his intirely beloued Concubine Rosamond Clifford a Damosell of surpassing beautie where notwithstanding followed by a clew of silke that fell from her lap she was surprised and poisoned by Queene Eleanor his wife and was first buried at Godstow Nunnery in the midst of the Quire vnder a Hearse of silke set about with lights whom Hugh Bishop of Lincolne thinking it an vnfit obiect for Virgins deuotion caused to be remoued into the Church yard but those chaste sisters liked so well the memory of that kinde Lady as that her bones they translated againe into their Chappell Bensington is another of his Majesties Mannours built by William de la Pole Duke of Suffolke but now in neglect through the annoâ—ance arising from the waters or marishes adioyning Houses built for deuotion and for abuse suppressed and againe put downe the chiefe in account were Enisham Osney Bruâ—rn Godstow Burchester and Tame besides S. Frideswides and very many other stately Houses of Religion in the Citie GLOCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIII GLOCESTER-SHIRE lyeth bordered vpon the North with Worcester and Warwicke-shires vpon the East with Oxford and Wileshire vpon the South altogether with Sommerset-shire and vpon the West with the Riuer Wye and Hereford-shire 2 The length thereof extended from Bristow vpon the Riuer Auon in her South vnto Clifford vpon another Auon in her North are about fortie eight miles and her broadest part from East to West is from Lechlad vnto Preston containing twentie eight the whole circumference about one hundred thirtie eight miles 3 The forme whereof is somewhat long and narrow the Ayre thereof is pleasant sweet and delectable and for fruitfulnesse of Soile heare Malmesbury and not me The ground of this Shire throughout saith he yeeldeth plentie of Corne and bringeth forth abundance of fruits the one through the naturall goodnesse onely of the ground the other through the diligent manuring and tillage in such wise that it would prouoke the laziest person to take paines Here you may see the High-wayes and Common Lanes clad with Apple trees and Peare trees not ingrafted by the industry of mans hand but growing naturally of their owne accord the ground of it selfe is so inclined to beare fruits and those both in taste and beautie farre exceeding others and will endure vntill a new supply come There is not any Country in England so thicke set with Vineyards as this Prouince is so plentifull of increase and so pleasant in taste The very wines made thereof carry no vnpleasant tartnesse as being little inferiour in sweet verdure to the French wines the houses are innumerable the Churches passing faire and the Townes standing very thicke But that which addeth vnto all good gifts a speciall glory is the Riuer Seuerne then which there is not any in all the Land for Channell broader for Streame swifter or for Fish better stored There is in it a daily rage and fury of waters which I know not whether I may call a Gulfe or Whirle-pole of waues raising vp the sands from the bottome winding and driuing them vpon heapes sometimes ouerflowing her bankes roâ—eth a great way vpon the face of her bordering grounds and againe retyreth as a Conquerour into the vsuall Channell Vnhappy is the Vessell which it taketh full vpon the side but the Water-men well ware thereof when they see that Hydra comming turne the Vessell vpon it and cut thorow the midst of it whereby they checke and auoyd her violence and danger 4 The ancient people that possessed this Prouince were the DOBVNI who spread themselues further into Oxford shire But betwixt the Seuerne and Wye were seated part of SILVRES or Inhabitants of South Wales And vpon what ground I know not let Lawyers dispute it the Inhabitants in some part of this Shire enioy a priuate custome to this day that the Goods and Lands of Condemned Persons fall vnto the Crowne but onely for a yeare and a day and then returne to the next heires contrary to the custome of all England besides 5 The general Commodities of this Shire are Corne Iron and Wools all passing fine besides Pasturage Fruits and Woods which last are much lessened by making of Iron the onely bane of Oke Elme and Beech. 6 These with all other prouisions are traded thorow twenty fiue Market-Townes in this County whereof two are Cities of no small import the first is Glocester from whom the Shire taketh name seated vpon Seuerne neere the middest of this Shire by Antonine the Emperour called Gleuum built first by the Romans and set as it were vpon the necke of the Silures to yoake them where their Leâ—ion called Colonia Gleuum lay It hath beene walled about excepting that part that is defended by the Riuer the ruines whereof in many places appeare and some part yet standing doth well witnesse their strength
Emperour and expert Souldiers imployed in euery Prouince Iulius Frontinus subdued these Silures vnto the Romans where continually some of their Legions afterward kept till all was abandoned in Valentinians time 4 The Saxons then made themselues Lords of this Land and this Prouince a part of their Mercians Kingdome yea and Sutton the Court of great Offa their King 5 But Hereford after raised of the ruines of old Ariconium now Kenchester shaken in pieces by a violent Earth quake grew to great fame through a conceiued sanctity by the buriall of Ethelbert King of the East-Angles slaine at Sutton by Offa at what time he came thither to haue espoused to his Daughter whose graue was first made at Marden but afterwards canonized and remoued to this Citie when in honour of him was built the Cathedrall Church by Milfrid a pettie King of that Country which Gruffith Prince of South-Wales and Algar an Englishman rebelling against King Edward Confessor consumed with fire but by Bishop Remesiu was restored at now it is at what time the Towne was walled and is so remaining in good repaire hauing sixe Gates for entrance and fifteen Watch-towers for defence extending in compasse to fifteen hundred paces and whence the North-Pole is obserued to be raised 52. degrees 17. minutes in Latitude and is set from the first point of the West in Longitude 17. degrees and 30. minutes being yearely gouerned by a Maior chosen out of one and thirtie Citizens which are commonly called the Election and he euer after is knowne for an Alderman and clothed in Scarlet whereof foure of the eldest are Iustices of Peace graced with a Sword-bearer a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and foure Sergeants with Mace The greatest glory that this Citie receiued was in King Athelstans dayes where as Malmesbury doth report he caused the Lords of Wales by way of Tribute to pay yearely besides Hawkes and Hounds twenty pound of Gold and three hundred pound of Siluer by waight but how that was performed and continued I finde not 6 Things of rare note in this Shire are said to be Bone well a Spring not farre from Richards Castle wherein are continually found little Fishes bones but not a sinne seene and being wholly cleansed thereof will notwithstanding haue againe the like whether naturally produced or in veynes thither brought no man knoweth 7 But more admirable was the worke of the Omnipotent euen in our owne remembrances and yeare of Christ Iesus 1571. when the Mareley hill in the East of this Shire rouzed it selfe out of a dead sleepe with a roaring noise remoued from the placewhere it stood and for three dayes together trauelled from her first site to the great amazement and feare of the beholders It began to journey vpon the seuenth day of February being Saturday at sixe of the Clocke at night and by seauen in the next morning had gone fortie paces carrying with it Sheepe in their coates hedge-rowes and trees whereof some were ouer-turned and some that stood vpon the plaine are firmely growing vpon the hill those that were East were turned West and those in the West 〈◊〉 set in the East in which remoue it ouerthrew Kâ—â—nasten Chappell and turned two high-wayes 〈◊〉 hundred yards from their vsuall paths formerly trod The ground thus trauelling was aboâ—◠〈…〉 six Acres which opening it selfe with Rockes and all bare the earth before it for foure hundred yards space without any stay leauing that which was Pasturage in place of the Tillage and the Tillage ouerspread with Pasturage Lastly ouerwhelming her lower parts mounted to an hill of twelue fadomes high and there rested her selfe after three dayes trauell remaining his marke that so laid hand vpon this Rocke whose power hath poysed the Hils in his Ballance 8 Religious Houses built by the deuotions of Princes and stored with Votaries and reuenewes for life were in this Shire no lesse then thirteene most sweetly seated in the places as followeth at both the Herefords Barron Ewayot Clifford Moneâ—â—e Acornebury Lemster Linbroke Peterchurch Kilpek Dore and Wiggemore and suspected of hypocrisie were called in question by King Henry the eight and so strictly pursued that some faults were apparant whereby they were laid open to the generall Deluge of the Time whose streame bare downe the walles of all those foundations carrying away the Shrines of the dead and defacing the Libraries of their ancient Records VVORCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER XXV VVORCESTER-SHIRE is a Countie both rich and populour and lyeth circulated vpon the North with Stafford 〈◊〉 vpon 〈◊〉 East with Warwicke and Oxford-shires vpon the South with Glacester shire and the West by Maluerne Hils is parted from Hereford shire the rest lyeth confronted vpon and in part diuided from Shâ—op-shire by the Riuer Dowles 2 The forme thereof is triangle but not of equall proportion for from North to South are thirtie two miles from South to North-West twenty two and from thence to her North-East point are twenty eight the whole in Circumference is one hundred and twentie miles 3 The Ayre in this Shire is of a fauourable temperature that giues an appetite for labour diet and rest the Soyle is fertile and to me seemed inferiour to notice other in this Land for besides the abundance of Corne in euery place spread the Woods and Pasturage in her hils and plaines sweet Riuers that water the vallies below and Cattle that couer the tops of higher ground the Fields Hedge-rowes and High-wayes are beset with fruitfull Peare-trees that yeeld great pleasure to sight and commodious vse for with their iuyce they make a bastard kinde of Wine called Perry which is both pleasant and good in taste Many Salt Springs also this County affordeth yea and more then are commonly in vse such with the Germans our ancient Predecessors were esteemed most sacred and holy so that as Tacitus writeth to such they wontedly resoted to supplicate their Gods with their deuout prayers as to places neerest the heauens and therefore the sooner to be heard And Poets in their faynings will haue the Nymphs residence in shady greene groues and bankes of sweet Springs if so then as Hellicon this County affords both such are the Forrests of Wâ—re and Feckenham the great woods of Norton and most faire Chase of Maluerne And for waters to witnesse what I say is the Seueraâ— that cuts this Shire in the midst Teme Salwarp and Auon all of them making fruitfull their passage and stored with Fish of most delicious taste 4 The ancient people possessors of this Shire were the CORNAVII inhabitants of Chesse-shire Shrop-shire Stafford and Warwicke-shires subdued by the Romanes in Claudius Caesars time and after their departure made a portion of the Mercian-Saxons Kingdome and in Bedaes time were called the Wicij whereof it may be this Shire had the name vnlesse you will haue it from the Salt-Pits which in old English are named Wiches or from the famous Forrest of Wyre Howsoeuer true it is that the County doth hold the name from her
whose Grand-father pro â—eris homines incarcâ—rauit exhareditauit mutilauit 〈◊〉 did pretend by Charter to enfranchise except Wabridge Saple Herthy his owne Demaines But such was the successe by encrochments vnder his two succeeding Sonnes that it drew on the oppressed people to importune a new the Soueraignes redresse which was by the great Charter of the third Henry fruitlesly effected His sonne in the 7. of his Raigne by a Perambulation resuming backe the fruit of his fathers goodnesse and so retaining vntill in his 29. yeare by Petition and purchase of his people for they gaue him a full Fifteene he confirmed the former Charter and by Iury View and Perambulation setled that Boundary of Forrest which contented the people became the square of vniuersall Iustice in this kinde and left in this Shire no more then the three former his owne grounds Forrest 3 This Shire hath foure Centuriatae or Hundreds and had of old time fiue these so called Quia prima institutione ex Hederum aliquet centenarijs compositae These are subdiuided into 79. Parishes whereof fiue besides the Shire-Towne haue Markets These Parishes are measured by Hides and Carucks or Plough-lands more or lesse as either richnes of Soile or strength of the Lord strengthned or extended their limits the Masse in whole containing of the first sort 818. and of the other 1136. These Hides the ancient and generall measure of land except in Kent where the account was by Solms or Lincolnshire Vbinon sunt Hida sed pro Hidis sunt Carucatae were esteemed one hundred Acres Non Normanico sed Anglico numero vna Hida pro sexies viginti Acris â—uo produâ—decâ—es 〈◊〉 as in the Booke of Domesday Caruca the Teame-land not Caâ—ucata for they be different was in quantitie of Acres proportioned to the qualitie of Soile but vsually in this Shire reputed 60. The â—â—rgata or Yard-land was a more or lesse part of the Hide as the Acres in number varied which I finde in this Countie from 18. to 42 but for the most part 30 which was the halfe Plough-land And the Bouata or Oxgang presumed in Law for Land in Granary was suited in number of Acres to that Yard-land of which it was a Moitie Thus except in the Fennes laid out per Leucas quarentenas miles and furlongs stands all a measurement of Land in this Shire which containeth in Knights Fees 53 one halfe 2 fifts and a twentieth part And in full estimation of rent and worth rose in the time of the Conquerour to 912. l. 4. s. and now payeth in Fifteene to the King 371. l. 9. s. 7. 〈◊〉 and in tenth from the Clergie 142. l. 6. s. q. 4 This Countie in discition of Titles and administration of Iustice did at the first as the Germans our Ancestors Iurapeâ— Pagos vicos reddere Euery Towneship by their Friburgi or Tenmentall as Triers and the Baron Thain or Head-lord there or the Decanus a good Freholder his Deputie as Iudge determining all ciuill causes a representation of this remaineth still in our Court-Lecte Aboue this and held 12. times a yeare was our Hundred or Wapentake Quae super decem Decanâ—s centum Friburgosiudicabat Here the Iudges were the Aldermen and Barons or Free-holders of that Hundred Aegelwinus Aldermannus tenuit placitum cum toto Hundredo saith the Booke of Ely This Court had Cognoscence of Causes Ecclesiasticall as Temporall therefore the Iudge or Alderman ought to be such as Dei leges hominum iura studebat promouere thus it went although the Conquerour commanded Ne Aliquis de legibus Episcopalibus amplius in Hundredo placita teneret The next and highest in this Shire was Generale plaâ—â—uÌ„ Comitatus the County or Sheriffes Count to which were proper Placita Ciuilia vbi curia Deminorum probantur defecisse Et sit placitum exurgaâ— inter Vauafores duorum Dominorum tractetur in Comitatis The Iudge was the Earle or Sheriffe The Tryers Barones Comitatus Freholders Quiliberat in eo terrâ— habent not Ciuill onely but Probats of Wils Questions of Tithes Et debita verae Christianitatis Iura were heard and first heard in this Court. Therefore Episcopus Presbyter Ecclesia Quatuor de melioribus villae were a diuncts to the Sheriffe Qui dei legeâ— seculâ— negotia iusta consideratione difinirent The Lay part of this liueth in a sort in the Countie and Sheriffe Turne the Spirituall about the raigne of King Stephen by Soueraigne conniuence suffered for the most into the quarterly Synode of the Clergie from whence in imitation of the Hundred Court part was remitted to the Rurall Deaneries of which this Shire had foure And these againe haue beene since swallowed vp by a more frequent and superiour Iurisdiction as some of our Ciuill Courts haue beene There being now left in vse for the most in this Shire for Causes Criminall View of Frankplâ—g by grant or prescription A Session of the Peace quarterly and two Goale deliueries by the Soueraignes commission and for Ciuill Causes Courts of Manours or of the County monâ—â—bly and twice by the Iudges of Assise yearely The Office of Execution and custody of this County is the Sheralfey of old inheritable vntill Eustachius who by force and fauour of the Conquerour disseised Aluric and his heyres forfeited it to the Crowne but since it hath passed by annuall election and hath vnited to it the County of Cambridge 5 Hauing thus farre spoken of the Shire in generall next in obseruation falleth the Shire-Towne Huntingdon Hundandun or the Hunters Downs North seated vpon a rising banke ouer the rich meadowing riuer Owse interpreted by some Authors the Downe of Hunters to which their now common Seale a Hunter seemeth to allude Great and populous was this in the fore-going age the following hauing here buried of fifteene all but three besides the Mother-Church S. Maries in their owne graues At the raigne of the Conquerour it was ranged into foure Ferlings or Wards and in them 256. Burgenses or Housholds It answered at all assessments for 50. Hides the fourth part of Hurstingston Hundred in which it standeth The annuall rent was then 30. l of which as of three Minters there kept the King had two parts the Earle the third the power of Coynage then and before not being so priuatiuely in the King but Borowes Bishops and Earles enioyed it on the one side stamping the face and stile of their Soueraigne in acknowledgement of subordinacie in that part of absolute power and on the reuerse their owne name to warrant their integritie in that infinite trust 6 The Castle supposed by some the worke of the Elder Edward but seeming by the Booke of Domesday to be built by the Conquerour is now knowne but by the ruines It was the seate of Waltheof the great Saxon Earle as of his succeeding heyres vntill to end the question of right betweene Seâ—â—â—ice and the King of Scots Henry the second laid it as you see yet doth it remaine
the head of that honour on which in other Shires many Knights Fees and sixteene in this attended Here Dauid Earle of this and Arguise father of Isabel de Brus founded the Hospitall of S. Iohn Baptist And Loâ—â—tote here vpon the Fee of Eustace the Vicount built to the honour of the blessed Virgin the Priory of Blacke Channons valued at the Suppression 232 l. 7. s. ob Here at the North end was a house of Fryers and without the Towne at Hinchingbrooke a Cloister of Nunnes valued at 19. l. 9. s. 2. d. founded by the first William in place of S. Pandonia at Eltesley by him suppressed where neere the end of the last Henry the Family of the Cromwels began their Seat To this Shire-Towne and benefit of the neighbour Countries this Riuer was nauigable vntill the power of Grey a mynion of the time stopt that passage and with it all redresse eyther by Law or Parliament By Charter of King Iohn this Towne hath a peculiar Coroner profit by Toll and Custome Recorder Towne-Clerks and two Bayliffes elected annually for gouernment as at Parliament two Burgesses for aduise and assent and is Lord of it selfe in Fee-Farme The rest of the Hundred wherein this Shire-Towne lyeth is the East part of the County and of Hurst a Parish in the center of it named HVRSTINGSTON it was the Fee-farme of Ramsey Abbey which on a point of fertile land thrust out into the Fennes is therein situate founded in the yeare 969 to God our Lady and S. Benedicte by Farle Aylwin of the Royall bloud replenished with Monkes from Westbury by Oswold of Yorke and dedicated by Dâ—nstan of Canterburie Archbishops By Abbat Regâ—ald 1114 this Church was redified by Magnaâ—â—ll Earle of Essex not long after spoyled and by Henry the Third first of all the Norman Princes visited when wasted with the 〈◊〉 warres Regalis mensae Hospitalitas it abbreuiata fuit vt cum Abbatibus Clericis viris satis humilibus hospitia quaesunt prandia This Monastery the shrine of two martyred Kings Ethelbright and Ethelred and of Saint 〈◊〉 the Persian Bishop by humble pietie at first and pious charitie ascended such a pitch of worldly fortune that it transformed their Founder religious pouertie into their ruine the attribute of Raâ—â—y the rich for hauing made themselues Lords of 387. Hides of land whereof 〈◊〉 in this Shire so much as at an easie and vnder rent was at the Suppression valued at 1983 l 15 s 3. d q. but by account of this time annually amounts to 7000 〈◊〉 they then began to affect popular command and first inclosing that large circuit of land and water for in it lyeth the Mile-square Meere of Ramsey as a peculiar Seignory to them called the Balent or Bandy bounded as the Shire from Eâ—y and from Norman-Crosse with the Hundred Meere by Soueraigne Grant they enioyed regall libertie And then aspiring a step further to place in Parliament made Broughton the head of their Baroâ—e annexing to it in this Shire foure Knights Fees Thus in great glory it stood aboue 400. yeares vntill Henry the Eight amongst many other once bright Lamps of Learning and Religion in this State though then obscured with those blemishes to wealth and ease concomitant dissolued the house although Iohn Warboys then Abbot and his 60 blacke Monkes there maintained were of the first that vnder their hands and conuentuall Seale protested Quod Romanus Pontifex non habet maiorem aliquam Iurisdictionem collatam sibi à Deo in Regno Angliae quam quivis alius externus Episcopus A Cell to this rich Monastery was S. Iuces Priory built in that place of Slep by Earle Adelmus in the raigne of the last Edmund where the incorrupted body of S. Ius there once an Hermit in a vision reuealed was by Ednothus taken vp in his Robes Episcopall and dedicated in the presence of Siward Earle of this Countie and that Lady of renowned piety Ethelfleda to the sacred memory of this Persian Bishop Not farre from this is Somersham the gift of the Saxon Earle Brithnothus to the Church of Ely before his owne fatall expedition against the Danes It is the head of those fiue Townes of which the Soke is composed and was an house to the See of Ely well beautified by Iohn Stanley their Bishop but now by exchange is annexed to the Crowne As these so all the rest of this Hundred was the Churches land except Rippon Regis ancient Demaine To which Saple reserued Forrest adioyned and the greater Stiuecly giuen by the last Dauid Earle of Huntingdon in Fee to his three Seruants Sentlice Lakerutle and Camoys 8 NORMANS CROS the next Hundred taketh name of a Crosse aboue Stilton the place where in former ages this Diuision mustered their people whence Wapentake is deriued it had in it two religious houses the eldest in the confines of Newton and Chesterton neere the Riuer of Auon now Nene founded by the first Abbesse Kineburga the Daughter of Penda and Wife of Aelfred King of Northumberland West side a Trench where Ermin-street-way crossed ouer the Riuer by a Stone-bridge whose ruines are now drowned whence the Roman Towne there seaâ—ed on both sides tooke the name Durobriua as Traiectus Fluminis But this Nunnery as raised was also ruined by the Danes before the Conquest The other a Monastery of Cistertian blacke Monks erected in honour of the Virgin Mary by the second Simon Earle of Huntington at Saltry Iudeth the Land of a Lady of that name wife of Earle Waltheof daughter to Lambert Earle of Leâ—us Neece to the Conquerour by his Sister her Mother and Grand-mother to this Founder Malcome William Kings of Scots Earles of Hamingdon and Heires of this Lady strengthened by seuerall Charters this pious worke Many chiefe of that Line as the last Earle Dauid brother to King William as Isabel the wife of Robert dâ— Brus his Daughter heyre and most of the second branch her Progenie making here their Burials This house now leuell with the ground maintained besides the Abbot sixe Monkes and 22 Hindes and was at the Suppression valued at 199. l. 11. c. 8. d The Founders and Patrons of this Monastery were the Lords of the next place Connington first the seate of Turkillus Earle of the East-Angles that inuited Swayn from Denmarke to inuade this Land and who first squared out the vnbounded marishes of this part to the bordering Townes his rule of proportion allowing to euery Parish tantum de Maâ—isco quantum de sicca terra in bredth in which none sine licentia Domini might vel federe vel salcare but leauing most to inter-common by vicinage This Dane exiled when the rest of his Countreymen were by Edward Confessor his land here was giuen to Earle 〈◊〉 by whose eldest heire Matilda marryed to Dauid King of Scots it went along in that Male line vntill by death issuelesse of Iohn Earle of Chester and Huntingdon it fell in partage to his sister Iâ—abel de
Brus one of his heires from whose second Sonne Bernard the Familie of Cotton by lineall succession holdeth this Land whereto Glarton the adioyning Parish is now by bountie of a second branch annexed It was in this Shire the head of the honour of Belleine on which 〈…〉 Sibson 〈◊〉 and Vesâ—yes Mannor in Chesterton attended part of it is the freâ—â— Sea 〈◊〉 foure mile 〈◊〉 bredth ouer which when Emma and her Children the issue of Canutiâ— sayled with some perill her Husband in preuention of the like from Bottsey in a strait course to the opposite firme land lined with his Attendant Swords that passage which since hath borne the name of Swords Delph Kings or Canutus dyke This Seignory was granted by the Conquerour to Eustace Earle of Bollein Brother to Lambert Earle of Leins and Father to Godfrey King of Ierusalem reuerting it was giuen to Richard Earle of Cornwall who granted out of it the two Meeres Vbbe Meere and Brich Meere in Fee-Farme to the Church of Ramsey Then after sundry changes it came to Iohn of Gaunt in exchange of the Earledome of Richmond and so by descent fell againe into the Crowne Washingley not farre off from the ancient Lord of that name by Dâ—we and Otter came to the Prices that now posseth it In Chesterton from Wadsheafe by Dennyes there is to the Beuils an ancient name in this Shire a Mannor descended The rest from Aegidius de Merke who gaue there much to Royston Priory passed by Amundeuill to Gloucester and so to Vesey by exchange In Elton the house rich in a beautious Chappell from Denham to Sapcotes and Saultre Beaumes from that surname neere the time of the Conquest by Louth to Cornwallis descended as Bottlebridge by Gimels Drayton Louet vnto Sherley the now Lord. 9 LETTVNESTAN HVNDRED hath that name from Leighton a Towne in the middest of it giuen by Earle Waltheof to the Church of Lincolne which after shared it into two Prebendaries One the Parsonage impropriate which still remaineth the other the Lordships was resumed by Henry the eight and now by the Heire of Darcy matched to the Lord Clifton is become the seate of his Barony This Hundred had in it no house of Religion but Stonley a Priorie of seauen blacke Channons of the order of S. Augustine founded by the Bigrames and at the Suppression valued at 62. l. 12. s 3. d ob It stood within the reach of the great Mannor Kimbolton once an Hundred which was the land of Earle Harold the Vsurper after by Graunt it came with the Chase of Swinesheued to Fitz-Peter from whom by Magnauil to Bohum who in time of the 〈◊〉 Barons built there a Forcelet and so to Stafford by whose attainturre forsaited it was giuen by Henry the eight to the Familie of Wingfield that now possesseth it At Bugden the See of Lincolne hath a seate and was Lord of Spaldwick and the Soke giuen in compensation from the Church of Ely when rent from them it was by the first Henry made a Bishopricke vntill of late that Church gaue vp their interest in Spaldwicke to the Crowne Brampton was giuen by King Iohn at Mirabel to Earle Dauid and by Ada his youngest Daughter fell to Hastings Earle of Pembroke and now is reuerted to the King To the same Earle Dauid by gift of the former King came Alcumesbury and by the bounty of Iohn Scot his sonne to Segraue and so to the Lord Barkley the late possessor To Quincyâ—arle â—arle of Winthester was Keston by Henry the second giuen by whose Heyre generall Ferrars it came to the late Earle of Essex and by exchange to the Crowne 10 TOVLESLAND HVNDRED taketh name likewise of a Towne therein situate In the out Angle of this to the memory of S. Neotus a Monke of Glasterbury but the supposed sonne to 〈◊〉 King of the West-Saxons whose body from 〈◊〉 in Cornwall was transferred to Arnalphesbury then of Arnulphus a holy man now Eynesbury named Earle Alrick and Ethelfleda turned the Palace of Earle Elfred into a Monastery of blacke Monkes which was razed by the Danes but out of the ashes of this Roisia wife to Richard the sonne of Earle Gilbert to God our Lady de Becco and S. Neot as a Cell to the Abbey of Becco in Normandy erected vp of blacke Monkes in the yeare 1113. the late Priorie of S. Nedes suppressed by Henry the eight and valued at 256. l. 15. d q. At Southo the Land of Eustachius the Sheriffe Louetote made the seate of that Seignory on which in this Shire 13. Knights Fees and a halfe depended But from his line by gift of Verdon and Vesey drowned were these in the honour of Gloucester Neare to this at Cretingsbury dwelt Sir Adam de Cretings famous in Edward the thirds warres of France whose Heyre Generall Wanton doth now possesse it Staunton giuen by the first William to Gilbert de Gaunt after the death issuelesse of De Rupes escheated to the King who gaue it to Ioan his sister Queene of Scots She on the Abbey of Tarent bestowed part the rest reuerting being giuen to Segraue descended to the Barons of Berkly Godmanchester or Gormonchester so named of that Dane to whom Aelfred at his conuersion granted some regiment in these parts was the olde land of the Crowne now the Inhabitants in fee farme by grant of King Iohn pro Sexies viginti libris pondere numero It is flat seated by as fruitfull and flowry Meadowes as any this Kingdome yeeldeth and is the most spacious of any one Parish in fertile tillage oft hauing waited on their Soueraigne Lords with ninescore Ploughes in a rurall pompe Some from the name Gunicester which this often beareth in record suppose it the Citie where Machutus placed his Bishops Chayre But for certaine it was that Romane Towne Durosipont of the Bridges named so many hundred yeares vntill the light of our Britainâ— Story ouershone it forgotten Thus as this Citie so the olde Families haue beene here with time outworne few onely of the many former now remaining whose Surnames before the raigne of the last Henry were in this Shire of any eminency But Non indignemur mortalia Nomina solui Cernimus exemplis Oppida posse mort Let 's not repine that Men and names doe dye Since stone-built Cities dead and ruin'd lye RVTLAND-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIX RVTLAND-SHIRE the least of any County in this Realme is circulated vpon the North with Lincolne-shire vpon the East and South by the Riuer Weland is parted from Northampton shire and the West is altogether held in with Leicester-shire 2 The forme thereof is round and no larger in compasse then a light horse-man can easily ride about in a day vpon which occasion some will haue the Shire named of one Rut that so rode But others from the rednesse of the Soile will haue it called Rutland and so the old English-Saxons called it for that Roet and Rut is in their tongue Red with vs and may very well
giue the name to this Prouince seeing the earth doth staine the wooll of her sheepe into a reddish colour Neither is it strange that the staine of the soyle giues names vnto places and that very many for haue we not in Chesse-shire the Red Rocke in Lancashire the Red Banke and in Wales Rutland Castle To speake nothing of that famous Red Sea which shooteth into the Land betwixt Egypt and Arabia which gaue backe her waters for the Israelites to passe on foote all of them named from the colour of the Soile 3 The longest part of this Shire is from Caldecot in the South vpon the Riuer Ey 〈◊〉 to Thistleton a small Village seated in the North not fully twelue miles and from Timwell East-ward to Wissenden in the West her broadest extant is hardly nine the whole circumference about fortie miles 4 The ayre is good both for health and delight subiect to neither extremity of heat nor cold nor is greatly troubled with foggy mists The Soile is rich and for Corne and tillage giues place vnto none Woods there are plentie and many of them imparked hills feeding heards of Neate and flockes of sheepe Vallies besprinkled with many sweet Springs Graine in abundance and Pastures not wanting in a word all things ministred to the content of life with a liberall heart and open hand Onely this is obiected that the Circuit is not great 5 The draught whereof that I may acknowledge my dutie and his right I receiued at the hands of the right Honourable Iohn Lord Harrington Baron of Exton done by himselfe in his yonger yeares Neere vnto his house Burley standeth Okham a faire Market-Towne which Lordship the said Baron enioyeth with a Royaltie somewhat extraordinary which is this If any Noble by birth come within the precinct of the same Lordship he shall forfeit as an homage a shooe from the horse whereon he rideth vnlesse he redeeme it at a price with money In witnesse whereof there are many Horse-shooes nayled vpon the Shire-Hall doore some of large size and ancient fashion others new and of our present Nobilitie whose names are thereupon stamped as followeth Henry Hastings Roger Rutland Edward L. Russell Earle of Bedford Raphe L. Euwer of Parram Henry L. Bertley Henry L. Mordant William L. Compton Edward L. Dudley Henry L. Winsor George Earle of Cumberland Philip Earle of Montgomery L. Willoughby P. L. Wharton The Lord Shandois Besides many others without names That such homage was his due the said Lord himselfe told me and at that instant a suit depended in Law against the Eirle of Lincolne who refused to forfeit the penaltie or to pay his sine 6 Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romones and mentioned in Ptolemit were the Coritanâ— and by him branched thorow Leicester Lincolne Nottingham Darby-shire and this who with the Icemans were subdued by P. Ostorius vnder the yoke of Claudius the Roman Emperour and at their departure by conquest the Saxons made it a Prounce vnto their Mercian Kingdome whose fortunes likewise comming to a full period the Normans annexed it vnder their Crowne 7 This Countie King Edward Confessor bequeathed by his Testament vnto Queene Eadgith his wife and after her decease vnto his Monastery at Westminster which William the Conquerour cancelled and made voyd bestowing the Lands vpon others the Tithes and the Church vnto those Monkes That the Ferrers here first seated besides the credit of Writers the Horse-shooe whose badge then it was doth witnesse where in the Castle and now the Shire-hall right ouer the Seat of the Iudge a Horse-shooe of iron curiously wrought containing fiue foot and a halfe in length and the bredth thereto proportionably is fixed The Castle hath beene strong but now is decayed the Church faire and the Towne spacious whose degree of Longitude is 19. 46. scruples and the North poles eleuation in Latitude 53. degrees and 7. minutes 8 Let it not seeme offen siue that I to fill vp this little Shire haue inserted the seate of a Towne not sited in this County for besides the conueniency of place the circuit and beautie but especially it being for a time an Vniuersitie did moue much yea and the first in this Iland if Iohn Hardings Author faile him not that will haue Bladud to bring from Athens certaine Philosophers whom here he seated and made publike profession of the Liberall Sciences where as he saith a great number of Scholars studied the Arts and so continued an Vniuersitie vnto the comming of Augustine at which time the Bishop of Rome interdicted it for certaine Heresies sprung vp among the Britaines and Saxons But most true it is that in the Raigne of King Edward the third vpon debate falling betwixt the Southerne and Northerne Students at Oxford many Schoole-men withdrew themselues hither and a while professed and named a Colledge according to one in Oxford Brasen-nose which retaineth that name vnto this day This was so great a skarre vnto the other that when they were recalled by Proclamation to Oxford it was prouided by Oath that no Student in Oxford should publikely professeor reade the Arts at Stanford to the preiudice of Oxford 9 As this Shire is the least in circuit so is it with the fewest Market-Townes replenished hauing onely two And from Societies that seed vpon the labours of others was this Land the freest for besides Rihall where Tibba the Fâ—lconers Goddesse was worshipped for a Saint when Superstition had well-neere put Gods true honour out of place I finde very few neither with more Castles strengthened then that at Okham whose ruines shew that a Castle hath beene there LEICESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER XXX LEICESTER-SHIRE lying bordered vpon the North with Nottingham-shire vpon the East with Lincolne and Rutland vpon the South with Northampton shire and vpon the West with Watling-street-way is parted from Warwick-shire the rest being bounded with the consines of Darby is a Country Champion abounding in corne but spary of woods especially in the South and East parts which are supplyed with pit-coales plenteously gotten in the North of this Prouince and with abundance of Cattle bred in the hilles beyond the Riuer Wreak which is nothing so well inhabited as the rest 2 The Ayre is gentle milde and temperate and giueth appetite both to labour and rest wholesome it is and draweth mans life to a long age and that much without sicknesse at Carleton onely some defect of pronunciation appeareth in their speech 3 The soile thus consisting the commodities are raised accordingly of Corne Cattle and Coales and in the Rockes neere Beuer are sometimes found the Astroites the Starre-like precious Stone 4 The ancient people that inhabited this Countie were the Coritani who were spread further into other Shires but after that the Romans had left the Land to it selfe this with many more fell to be vnder the possession and gouernment of the Mercians and their Kings from whom the English enioyeth it at this day 5 In Circular-wise almost the compasse of this
Ocean all along pestered with inlets of salt waters and sands which are neither firme nor safe for trauellers as those in the South proued vnto King Iohn who matching North-ward from Northfolke against his disloyall Barons vpon those washes 〈…〉 and carriage by the sodaine returne of the Sea and sofenesse of the sands 5 Her Soile vpon the West and North is abundantly 〈◊〉 pleasant 〈…〉 pasturage areable and meadowing grounds the East and South fenny and 〈…〉 barren but for fowle and fish exceeding any other in the Realme wherein at some times and season of the yeare hath beene taken in nets in August at one draught aboue three thousand Mallards and other Fowles of the like kinde 6 The Shires commodities consist chiefly in Corne Cattle Fish Fowle Flax and Alablaster as also in a Plaister much esteemed of by the Romans for their workes of Imagery and whereof Plinie in his Naturall History maketh mention And the Astroites a precious stone Star-like pointed with fiue beames or rayes anciently esteemed for their vertue in victories vpon the South-west of this County neere Beuer are found not farre thence in our Fathers memory at Harlaxton was ploughed vp a brasen vessell wherein was inclosed a golden Helmet of an ancient fashion set with precious stones which was presented to Kathren of Spaine Wife and Dowager to King Henry the eight 7 This Shire triumpheth in the births of Beauclerke King Henry the first whom Selby brought forth and of King Henry the fourth at Bullingbrooke borne but may as iustly lament for the death of King Iohn herein poysoned by Sâ—non a Monke of Swynsted Abbey and of Queene Eleanor wife to King Edward the first the mirrour of wedlocke and loue to the Commons who at Hardby neere Bullingbrooke his birth place ended her life 8 Trade and commerce for prouision of life is vented thorow thirtie one Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Lincolne the Counties namer is chiefe by Ptolemie and Antonine called Lindum by Beda Linde-collma and by the Normans Nichol. Very ancient it is and hath beene more magnificall as by her many ouerturned ruines doth appeare and farre more populous as by Demesdayes Booke is seene where it is recorded that this Citie contained a thousand and seauen Mansions and nine hundred Burgesses with twelue Lage-men hauing Sac and Soc. And in the Normans time saith Malmesbury it was one of the best peopled Cities of England being a place for trafficke of Merchandize for all commerce by Land or Sea Herein King Edward the third ordained his Staple for the Mart of Wools Leather and Lead and no lesse then fiftie Parish Churches did beautifie the same but now containeth onely fifteene besides the Cathedrall Some ruines yet remaines both of Frieries and Nunneries who lye now buried in their owne ashes and the Citie conquered not by warre but by time and very age and yet hath she not escaped the calamitie of sword as in the time of the Saxons whence Arthur enforced their Host the like also did Edmund to the destroying Danes and by the Normans it suffered some dammage where King Stephen was vanquished and taken prisoner and againe by the third Henry that assaulted and wan it from his rebellious Barons By fire likewise it was fore defaced wherein not onely the buildings were consumed but withall many men and women in the violence thereof perished as also by an Earth-quake her foundation was much weakened and shaken wherein the faire Cathedrall Church dedicated to the Virgin of Virgins was rent in peeces The gouernment of this Citie is committed yearely to a Maior tow Sheriffes twelue Aldermen in Scarlet a Sword a Hat of Estate a Recorder Sword-bearer and foure Sergeants with Maces whose situation on a sleepe hill standeth for Longitude in the degree 20. 10. scruples the Pole eleuated for Latitude from the degree 53. and 50. scruples 9 Much hath beene the deuotion of Princes in building religious houses in this Countie as at Crowland Lincolne Markeby Leyborne Grenfeld Aluingham Newnersby Grymmysby Newsted Elsham Stayâ—feld Syxhyll Torkesey Bryggerd Thorneholme Nuncotton Fosse Heyings Axholme I le Goykewell S. Michaels neere Stamford Swynâ—shead Spalding Kirkested c. 10 Commotions in this Shire were raysed the eight and twentieth of King Henry the Eight where twentie thousand making insurrection violently sware certaine Lords and Gentlemen to their Articles But no sooner they heard of the Kings power comming but that they dispersed themselues and sued for pardon And againe in the third yeare of King Edward the Sixt in case of Inclosuâ—es Lincolne rose in seditious manner as did they of Cornwall Deuon-shire York-shire and Norfolke but after some flaughters of their chiefest men were reduced to former obedience NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXII NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE from Nottingham her chiefest Towne hath the name and that somewhat softned from the Saxons Snoddenzaham for the many Dennes or Caues wrought in her Rocks and vnder ground lyeth bordered vpon the North North west with York-shire vpon the East a good distance by Trent is parted froM and with Lincoln-shire altogether confined the South with Leicester-shire and the West by the Riuer Erwash is seperated from Darby-shire 2 For forme long and Ouall-wise doubling in length twice her bredth whose extreames are thus extended and distance obserued From Finingley North to Sleanford in the South are thirtie eight English miles her West part from Teuersall to Besthorp in the East are little more then nineteene whose circumference draweth much vpon one hundred and ten miles 3 The Ayre is good wholesome and delectable the Soile is rich sandy and clayie as by the names of that Counties diuisions may appeare and surely for Corne and Grasse so fruitfull that it secondeth any other in the Realme and for Water Woods and Canell Coales abundantly stored 4 Therein groweth a Stone softer then Alablaster but being burnt maketh a plaister harder then that of Paris wherewith they flower their vpper roomes for betwixt the Ioysts they lay onely long Bulrushes and thereon spread this Plaister which being throughly dry becomes most solide and hard so that it seemeth rather to be firme stone then mortar and is trod vpon without all danger In the West neere Worksop groweth plentie of Liquorice very delicious and good 5 More South in this Shire at Stoke in the Raigne of King Henry the seauenth a great battle was fought by Iohn De-la-Pole Earle of Lincolne which Richard the Vsurper had declared his heire apparant but Richard losing his life and De-la Pole his hopes in seeking here to set vp a Lambert fell downe himselfe and at Newarke after many troubles King Iohn got his peace with the end of his life 6 Trade and commerce for the Counties prouision is frequented in eight Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Nottingham is both the greatest and best a Towne seated most pleasant and delicate vpon a high hill for buildings stately and number of faire streets surpassing and surmounting many other Cities and for a spacious and most faire
Dane is separated from Darby and Stafford-shires vpon the South toucheth the Counties of Shrop-shire and Flint and vpon the West with Dee is parted from Denbigh shire 2 The forme of this Countie doth much resemble the right wing of an Eagle spreading it selfe from Wirall and as it were with her pinion or first feather toucheth Yorke shire betwixt which extreames in following the windings of the Shires diuder from East to West are 47. miles and from North to South twentie-sixe miles The whole circumference about one hundred fortie two miles 3 If the affection to my naturall producer blind not the judgement of this my suruey for aire and soile it equale the best and farre exceeds her neighbours the next Counties for although the Climate be cold and toucheth the degree of Latitude 54. yet the warmth from the Irish Seas melteth the Snow and dissolueth the Ice sooner there then in those parts that are further off and so wholesome for life that the Inhabitants generally attaine to many yeares 4 The Soile is fat fruitfull and rich yeelding abundantly both profit and pleasures for man The Champion grounds make glad the hearts of their Tillers the Meadowes imbrodered with diuers sweet smelling flowers and the Pasture makes the Kines vdders to strout to the paile from whom and wherein the best Cheese of all Europe is made 5 The ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII who with Warwicke-shire Worcester-shire Stafford-shire and Shrop-shire spread themselues further into this Countie as in Ptolemie is placed and the Cangi likewise if they be the Ceangi whose remembrance was found vpon the shore of this Shire on the surface of certaine pieces of Lead in this manner inscribed IMP. DOMIT. AVO. GER DE CEANG. These Cangi were subdued by P. Ostorius Seapula immediately before his great victory against Caractacus where in the mouth of Deua he built a Fortresse at the backe of the Ordouices to restraine their power which was great in those parts in the raigne of Vespasian the Emperour But after the departure of the Romanes this Prouince became a portion of the Saxon Mercians Kingdome notwithstanding saith Ran Higden the Citie it selfe was hold by the Britaine 's vntill all fell into the Monarchy of Egbert Of the dispositions of the since Inhabitants heare Lucian the Monke who liued presently after the Conquest spake They are found saith he to differ from the rest of the English partly better and partly equall In feasting they are friendly at meat chearefull in entertainement liberall soone angry and soone pacified lauish in words impatient of seruitude mercifull to the afflicted compassionate to the poore kinde to their kindred spary of labour void of disimulation not greedie meating and far from dangerous practises And let me adde thus much which Lucian could not namely that this Shire hath neuer beene stained with the blot of rebellion but euer stood true to their King and his Crowne whose loyaltie Richard the second so farre found and esteemed that he held his person most safe among them and by authoritie of Parliament made the Countie to be a Principalitie and stiled himselfe Prince of Chester King Henry the third gaue it to his eldest sonne Prince Edward against whom Lewlyn Prince of Wales gathered a mightie Band and with them did the Conntie much harme euen vnto the Cities gates With the like scarre-fires it had oft times beene affrighted which they lastly defenced with a Wall made of the Welsh-mens heads on the South side of Dee in Hanbridge The Shire may well be said to be a Seed-plot of Gentilitie and the producer of many most ancient and worthy Families neither hath any brought more men of valour into the Field then Chesse-shire hath done who by a generall speech are to this day called The Chiefe of men and for Natures endowments besides their noblenesse of mindes may compare with any other Nation in the world their limmes straight and well-composed their complexions faire with a chearefull countenance and the Women for grace feature and beautie inferiour vnto none 6 The Commodities of this Prouince by the report of Ranulphus the Monke of Chester are chiefly Corne Cattle Fish Fowle Salt Mines Metals Meares and Riuers whereof the bankes of Dee in her West and the Vale Royall in her midst for fruitfulnesse of pasturage equals any other in the Land either in graine from the Cow 7 These with all other prouision for life are traded thorow thirteene Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Chester is the fairest from whom the Shire hath the name A Citie raised from the Fort of Ostorius Lieutenant of Britaine for Claudius the Emperour whither the twentieth Legion named Victrix were sent by Galba to restraine the Britaines but growne themselues out of order Iulius Agricola was appointed their Generall by Vespafian as appeareth by Monies then minted and there found and from them no doubt by the Britaine 's the place was called Caer Legion by Ptolemie Deunana by Antonine Dena and now by vs West-Chester but Henry Bradshawe will haue it built before Brute by the Giant Leon Gaueâ— a man beyond the Moone and called by Marius the vanquisher of the Picts Ouer Deua or Dee a faire stone-bridge leadeth built vpon eight Arches at either end whereof is a Gate from whence in a long Quadren-wise the wals do incompasse the Citie high and strongly built with foure faire Gates opening into the foure windes besides three Posternes and seauen Watch-Towers extending in compasse one thousand nine hundred and fortie paces On the South of this Citie is mounted a strong and stately Castle round in forme and the base Court likewise inclosed with a circular wall In the North is the Minister first built by Earle Leofrike to the honour of S. Werburga the Virgin and after most sumptuously repaired by Hugh the first Earle of Chester of the Normans now the Cathedrall of the Bishops See Therein lyeth interred as report doth relate the body of Henry the fourth Emperour of Almane who leauing his Imperiall Estate lead lastly therein an Hermites life This Citie hath formerly beene sore defaced first by Egfrid King of Northumberland where he slew twelue hundred Christian Monkes resorted thither from Bangor to pray Againe by the Danes it was sore defaced when their destroying feete had trampled downe the beautie of the Land But was againe rebuilt by Edelfleada the Mercian Lady who in this Countie and Forrest of Delamer built two fine Cities nothing of them now remaining besides the Chamber in the Forrest Chester in the dayes of King Edgar was in most flourishing estate wherein he had the homage of eight other Kings who rowed his Barge from S. Iohns to his Pallace himselfe holding the Helme as their supreme This Citie was made a County incorporate of it selfe by King Henry the seauenth and is yearely gouerned by a Mator with Sword and Mace borne before him in State two Sheriffes twentie-foure Aldermen a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and a Sergeant of Peace foure Sergeants and
solitary combred with hilles as Copland is 3 The ayre is piercing and of a sharpe temperature and would be more biting were it not that those high hilles breake off the Northerne stormes and cold falling snowes 4 Notwithstanding rich is this Prouince and with great varieties thereof is replenished the hilles though rough yet smile vpon their beholders spread with sheepe and cattle the vallies stored with grasse and corne sufficient the Sea affordeth great store of fish the land ouer-spread with varietie of fowles and the Riuers feed a kinde of Muskle that bringeth forth Pearle where in the mouth of the Irt as they lie gaping and sucking in dew the Country people gather and sell to the Lapidaries to their owne little and the buyers great gaine But the Mines Royall of Copper whereof this Country yeeldeth much is for vse the richest of all the place is at Keswick and Newland where likewise the Blacke Lead is gotten whose plentie maketh it of no great esteeme otherwise a commoditie that could hardly be missed 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Brigantes whom Ptolemie disperseth into Westmorland Richmond Durham York-shire and Lanca-shire But when the Saxons had ouer borne the Britaines and forced them out of the best to seeke their resting among the vast Mountaines these by them were entred into where they held play with those enemies maugre their force and from them as Mariama doth witnesse the Land was called Cumber of those Kumbri the Britaines But when the State of the Saxons was fore shaken by the Danes this Cumberland was accounted a Kingdome it selfe for so the Flower-gatherer of Westminster recordeth King Edmund saith he with the helpe of Leoline Prince of South-Wales wasted all Cumberland and hauing put out the eyes of the two sonnes of Dunmail King of that Prouince granted that Kingdome vnto Molcolm King of Scots whereof their eldest sonnes became Prefects This Prouince King Stephen to purchase fauour with the Scots what time he stood in most need of ayd confirmed by gift vnder their Crowne which Henry the second notwithstanding made claime vnto and got as Newbrigensis writeth and laid it againe in the Marches of England since when many bickerings betwixt these Nations herein haue hapned but none so sore against the Scotish side as was that at Sallome-Mosse where their Nobilitie disdaining their Generall Oliuer Sinclere gaue ouer the Battle and yeelded themselues to the English which dishonour pierâ—ed so deeply into the heart of King Iames the fift that for griefe thereof he shortly after died 6 Many memorable Antiquities remaine and haue beene found in this County for it being the Confines of the Romans Possessions was continually secured by their Garrisons where remaine aâ— this day parts of that admirable wall built by Seuerâ—s also another Fortification from Wâ—rkinton to Elus Mouth vpon the Sea-shoare toward Ireland by Stilico raised when vnder Theodosius he suppressed the rage of the Picts and Irish and freed the Seas of the Saxons Pirats Vpon Hard-knot hill Moresby Old Carleil Pap-castle along the Wall and in many other places their ruines remaine with altars and Inscriptions of their Captaines and Colonies whereof many haue beene found and more as yet lie hid 7 The chiefest Citie in this Shire is Carlile pleasantly seated betwixt the Riuers Eden Petterell and Caud by the Romans called Luguvallum by Beda Luell by Ptolemy Leucopibia by Nuâ—tuâ— Caer-Luâ—lid and by vs Carlile This Citie flourishing vnder the Romans at their departure by the furious outrages of the Scots and Picts was deiected yet in the dayes of Egfrid King of Northumberland was walled about but againe defaced by the ouer-running Danes lay buried in her owne ashes the space of two hundred yeares vpon whose ruines at length Rufus set his compassionate eye and built there the Castle planting a Colony of Flemings to secure the Coasts from the Scots but vpon better aduisement remoued them into Wales After him Henry his brother and successour ordained this Citie for an Episcopall See whose site is placed in the degree of Longitude from the first West part 17. and 2. scruples and the Pole thence eleuated from the degree of Latitude 55. and 56. scruples 8 West from hence at Burgh vpon the sand was the fatall end of our famous Monarch King Edward the first who there leauing his warres vnfinished against Scotland left his troubles and soone missed life to his vntimely and soone lamented death 9 And at Salkelds vpon the Riuer Eden a Monument of seuentie seuen stones each of them ten foot high aboue ground and one of them at the entrance fifteene as a Trophie of Victory was erected These are by the By-dwellers called Long Megge and her daughters NORTHVMBERLAND CHAPTER XLII THe County of Northumberland hath on the South the Bishopricke of Durham being shut in with the Riuer Derwent and with Tyne the North is confined vpon Scotland the West vpon part of Scotland and part of Cumberland the East-side lyeth altogether vpon the Sea called Mare-Germanicum 2 The forme thereof is Triangle and differs not much in the sidings for from her South-East vnto the South-West-point are neere vnto 40. miles from thence to 〈◊〉 North-point are sixty miles and her base along the Sea-shoare 45. miles The whole in circumâ—â—â—â— is about one hundred fortie fiue miles 3 The Ayre must needs be subtile and piercing for that the Northernly parts are most exposed to extremitie of weathers as great winds hard frosts and long lying of snowes c. Yet would it be farre more sharper then it is were not the Germane Seas a ready meanes to further the dissolution of her Ice and Snow and the plentie of Coales there gotten a great helpe to comfort the body with warmth and defend the bitter coldnesse 4 The Soile cannot be rich hauing neither fertilitie of ground for Corne or Cattle the most part of it being rough and in euery place hard to be manured saue onely towards the Sea and the Riuer Tyne where by the great diligence and industrious paines of good husbandry that part is become very fruitfull 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country mentioned by Ptolemie were called OTTALINI OTTADENI and OTTADINI which by an easie alteration as M. Cambden saith if it had â—ene called OTTATINI signifying about the Riuer Tyne or on the further side of Tyne 〈…〉 this people were planted there would haue beene much consonance both with the name of the Inhabitants and the Position and Site of the Prouince 6 The chiefest commoditie that enricheth this Countie are those Stones Linthancraces which we call Sea-coales whereof there is such plentie and abundance digged vp as they doe not onely returne a great gaine to the Inhabitants but procure also much pleasure and profit to others 7 No place of this Prouince vents forth so many of these Sea-coales into other regions as Newcastle doth being the very eye of all the Townes in this County for it doth not onely minister reliefe
retire themselues thither and to make it their receptacle for solitude hauing on the West and South Northumberland and more South-Eastward the Iland Farne 2 The forme of it is long and narrow the West side narrower then the East and are both conioyned by a very small spang of land that is left vnto Comes The South is much 〈◊〉 then the rest It is from East to West about two thousand two hundred and fiftie pases and from North to South twelue hundred and fiftie pases so that the circumference cannot be great 3 The ayre is not very good either for health or delight as being seated on those parts that are subiect to extremitie of cold and greatly troubled with vapours and toggy mists that arise from the Seas 4 The soile cannot be rich being rockie and full of stones and vnfit for Corne and Tâ—â—age It is neither commended for hils to seed sheepe nor pastures to fit Cattle 〈…〉 replenished with sweet springs or running riuellets onely one excepted 〈…〉 standing pond The onely thing this Iland yeeldeth is a stand accomodate 〈…〉 and fowling 5 Notwithstanding this is very worthy of note concerning the same which Alcun wrote in an Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland namely that it was a place more venerable then all the places of Britaine and that after the departure of S. Paulinus from Yorke there Christian Religion began in their Nation though afterwards it there felt the first beginning of misery and calamitie being left to the spoyle of Pagans and Mâ—â—â—oants 6 It is also remembred of this Iland that sometimes there hath beene in it an Episcopall See which Aâ—dan the Scot instituted being called thither to Preach the Christian Faith to the people of Northumberland being thus delighted with the solitary situation thereof as a most fit place for retire But afterwards when the Danesâ—isled â—isled and robbed all the Sea-Coasts the Episcopall See was translated to Durham 7 This Iland so small in account either for compasse or Commoditie and so vnpeopled and vnprofitable cannot be numerous in Townes and Villages It hath in it onely one Towne with a Church and a Castle vnder which there is a commodious Hauen defended with a Block-house situate vpon in hill towards the South-East FARNEILE THis I le South-eastward seuen miles from Holy Iland sheweth it selfe distant almost two miles from Bambrough Castle On the West and South it beareth vpon Northumberland and on the North-east-side it hath other smaller Ilands adioyning to it as Widopens Staple Iland which lie two miles off Bronsinan and two lesser then these which are called the Wambes 2 The forme of this I le is round and no larger in compasse then may easily be ridden in one halfe of a day The bredth of it is but fiue miles and the length no more The whole circumference extends it selfe no further then to fifteene miles 3 The ayre is very vnwholesome and subiect both to many Dysenteries and other diseases by reason of the mistie fogges and exhalations that are thereunto drawne vp from the Ocean It is many times troubled with vnusuall tempests of windes with boisterous fury of stormy raines and with seuerall and vncouth rages of the Sea 4 The soile cannot be fertile being encircled about with craggy clifts neither hath it in it much matter either of pleasure or profit It can neither defend it selfe from cold lacking fuell as Wood Coale Turffes c. nor from famine wanting food as Corne Pastures Cattle c. The best commoditie it yeelds is Fish and Fowle 5 This thing neuerthelesse is worthy to be remembred of it which Beda writing of the life of Cuthbert Bishop of Lindisfarne that Tutelar Paâ—ron of the Northerne Englishmen reporteth namely that in this I le he built a Citie fitting his gouernment and erected certaine houses in the same the whole building standing almost round in compasse and reaching the space of foure or fiue pearches The wall about it he made higher then a mans height to with-hold and keepe in the want on lasciuiousnesse both of his thoughts and eyes and to eleuate the whole intention of his minde vp to heauenly desires that he might wholly giue himselfe to the seruice of God But these are all made the ruines of time as sithence many other Monuments haue beene of worthy antiquitie 6 I cannot report that there are now many houses standing in it much lesse Townes or Villages Onely this that it hath a Tower or place of Fortification belonging vnto it placed well-neere in the middle part of the I le GARNSEY THis Iland lieth about fiue leagues Northwest from Iersey and is compassed like to her neighbour with the British Sea It lieth in length from Plymouth bay South-west to Lancrosse de Anckeâ—â— Northeast thirteene miles in bredth from S. Martins point Southeast to the Howe Northwest nine miles and is in circuit thirtie sixe miles The Emperour Antonine hauing the rule and domination of France at that time called Gaule from whence the word Gallia is deriued did name this Iland Sarnia which afterward by the change of Times and corruption of Languages was long since and is at this day called Garnsey 2 This I le in forme and fashion standeth in the Sea much like to a Parke that is incompassed round about with a Pale of Rockes being very defensible vnto the Iland from the attempting innouation of enemies 3 The Aire and Climate of this I le hath little or no difference in temper or qualitie from that of Iersey And this deserues to be remembred of it that in this I le is neither Toade Snake Adder or any other venemous creature and the other hath great plentie 4 It standeth for the most part vpon a rocke very high in many places from the Sea Neuerthelesse the Soile is very fruitfull yeelding forth great plentie of grasse for their Sheepe and other Cattell which they haue to serue all vses Their fields in the Summer time are so naturally garnished with flowers of all sorts that a man being there might conceit himselfe to be in a pleasant artificiall garden 5 The Inhabitants are not so much giuen to tillage as they of Iersey though the soile be as fruitfull They haue of late taken great delight in planting and setting of trees of all sorts and especially of Apples by reason whereof they make much Cider Their commodities are alike and their helpes from the Sea no lesse or rather more 6 In this I le are many great steepe Rocks among which is found a hard stone called by the Frenchmen Smyris which we terme Emerill This stone is seruiceable for many purposes and many Trades as Glasiers c. but especially for the Goldsmiths and Lapidaries to cut their precious stones 7 It hath a head of Land vpon the North part thereof the passage into which is so narrow that a man would thinke that at euery Tyde the Sea beating strongly on both sides it were in a continuall danger to be sundred from
reaching aboue an hundred miles in length 4 Siluester Giraldus makes the Riuer Wye to be the Meare betweene England and Wales on the South part called South-Wales whence he ascribeth the breadth of Wales vnto Saint Dauids in Meneuia to be an hundred miles and the length from Caerleon vpon Vske in Gwentland to Holly head in Anglesey an hundred miles he might haue said thirtie more 5 About the yeare of Christ 870. our Alfred raigning in England Rodericus Magnus King of Wales did diuide it into three Talaiths Regions or Territories which were called Kingdomes This Rodericus Magnâ—â— gaue Venedotia Gwineth or North-Wales to Anarawd his eldest sonne to Cadeth his second sonne Demetia Deheubarth or South-Wales and to Meruin his third sonne Powys 6 North-Wales had vpon the North side the Irish Sea from the Riuer Dee at Bassingwerke to Aberdyni vpon the West and South-West the Riuer Dyni which diuideth it from South-Wales and in some places from Powysland And on the South and East it is diuided from Powys sometimes with high hils and sometimes with Riuers till it come againe to the Riuer Dee It is generally full of high mountaines craggie rockes great woods and deepe vallies many straight dangerous places deepe and swift Riuers 7 This Land was of old time diuided into foure parts Môn Aruon Meryonyth and y Beruedâ—wlan or the middle Country and each of these were againe diuided into seuerall Cantrenes and they subdiuided into their Cymeden or Commots wherein we follow that diuision which was in the time of Llewylyn ap Gruffin last Prince of Wales according to a Copie imparted to me by a worshipfull friend and learned Antiquarie as seeming farre more exact then that of Doctor Powels 8 Anglesey the chiefest is separated from the maine Land with the Riuer 〈◊〉 wherein at Aberfraw was the Princes Court now a meane village In this Iland is a faire Towne called Beaumarish and a common passage to Ireland at Caergyâ—i in English Holly-head 9 Aruon the second part of North-Wales is now called Carnaruonshire the strongest Country within that Principalitie giuing place to none for fertilitie of the ground of for plentie of Wood-Castle Fish and Fowle c. Here are the Townes of Caâ—â—naruon in old time called Caer-Segonâ— and Bangor the Bishops See with diuers other ancient Castles and places of memory This portion hath on the North the Sea and Moenaâ— vpon the East and South-east the Riuer 〈◊〉 which diuideth it from Denbigh-shire and on the South-west is separated from Merioneth by Riuers Mountaines and Meares 10 Merioneth was the third part of Gwyneth and keepeth the name till this day is full of hilles and much noted for the resort of people that repaire thither to take Hertings Vpon the North it hath Aruon and Denbigh-land vpon the South Caerdigan-shire and vpon the East Montgomery-shire heretofore part of Powys In this Countie standeth the Towne of Harleth and a great Lake called Ilyn Tegyd This Country is likewise full of Cattle Fowle and Fish and hath in it great store of redde Deere and Roes but there is much scarcitie of Corne. 11 Y Beruedhwlad was the fourth part of Gwyneth and may be called in English The middle Country is inclosed with hilles on the East West and South-parts and with the Sea Northward It is plentifull of Cattle Fish and Fowle as also of Corne and is diuided in the middest with the Riuer Clwyd to which run a number of other Riuers from the hilles In this part is Dyffryn Clwyd the fairest Valley within Wales containing eighteene miles in length and seauen in breadth In which is the Towne and Castle of Ruthlan neere vnto the Sea and not farre thence S. Assaph an Episcopall seat betweene the Riuers Clwyd and Elwy Herein stands the faire Towne and goodly Castle of Denbigh situated vpon a Rocke the greatest Market-Towne of North-Wales and from thence is seene the Towne and Castle of Ruthyn faire for prospect and fruitfull for site This part of North-Wales hath the Sea vpon the North d ee toward the East Aruon the Riuer Conwey and Merionyth vpon the West and the Country then called Powys vpon the South And these were the Meares and bounds of the foure parts of Venedotia Gwyneth or North-Wales 12 The second Talaith or Kingdome was Mathraual or Powys To this belonged the Country of Powys and the Land betweene Wye and Seuerne It had South-Wales vpon the South and West with the Riuers Wye and Tywy and other Meares vpon the North Gwyneth and vpon the East the Marches of England from Chester to Wye a little aboue Hereford This part was diuided into Powis Vadoc Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne and Powis Wenwynwyn In Powis Vadoc is the Castle of Holt in Bromefeild and the Castle of Chirke in Chirkeland the Castle likewise of Whittington and Lordship of Oswestrie with others 13 The second part of Powis or the Territory belonging to Mathraual is Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne or Gwy and Hauren whereof some is at this day in Montgomery-shire some in Radnor-shire and some in Brecknock-shire and among sundry other hath these Townes and Castles following Montgomery The Castle of Clyn The Towne of Knighton The Castle of Cymaron Presteyn The Towne and Castle of Radnor called in Welsh Maesyuet which is at this day the Shire-Towne The Towne of Kinton and the Castle of Huntingdon 14 The third part belonging to Mathranal chiefe seat of Powys after the Welsh were driuen from Pengwern or Shrewsburie was Powys Wenwynwyn a Country full of Woods Hilles and Riuers hauing in it among others the Townes of Welsh-Poole Newtowne Machinhaeth Arustly was anciently in this part but afterward it came to the Princes of Gwyneth This may suffice for the description of that which in old time was called Gwyneth and Powys 15 It now remaineth that we describe the last kingdome of Wales called Demetia Deheubarth or the Talaith of Dineuowr which although it was the greatest yet was it not the best because it was much molested with Flemings and Normans and for that also diuers parts thereof would not obey their Prince as in Gwent and in Morganwâ— 16 This was diuided into sixe parts of which Caerdigan was the first and is a Champion Countrey without much Wood. It hath Merionyth-shire on the North part of Powys vpon the East Carmarden-shire and Pembroke-shire with the Riuer Tiuâ— vpon the South and vpon the West the Irish Sea In this part is the Towne of Caerdigan vpon Tiuâ— not farre from the Sea as also the Towne of Aberstwyth vpon the Riuer Istwyth and Lhanbadarneuowr which in times past was a great Sanctuary there were also many Castles as of Stratneyrie of Walter of Lhanrysted of Dyuerâ—h and of Aber Roydell c. 17 The second part was called Dyuet and at this day Penbroke-shire It hath vpon the North and West the Irish Sea vpon the East Carmarden-shire and vpon the South Seuerne There are in it sundry Townes and Hauens among others these
it gaue vnto the third It was founded by Henry the second finished by Edward the first and long after gaue harbour and entertainment to that noble but vnfortunate Prince Richard the second comming out of Ireland being within her walles a free and absolute King but no sooner without but taken prisoner by Henry Bullingbrooke Duke of Lancaster losing at that time his libertie and not long after his life This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53. 55. minutes in Longitude 17. For the Castle of Hawarden no record remaines of the first founder but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earles of Chester Howbeit their resistances did not so generally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications as in their Mountaines and Hils which in times of danger serued as naturall Bulwarkes and Defences vnto them against the force of enemies As was that which standeth in a certaine strait set about with woods neere vnto the Riuer Alen called Coles-hull that is Coles-hill where the English by reason of their disordered multitude not ranged close in good array lost the field and were defeated when King Henry the second had made as great preparation as might be to giue battle vnto the Welsh and the very Kings Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex who was Standard-bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance 8 This Country hath many shallow riuers in it but none of fame and note but d ee and Cluyde Howbeit there is a Spring not farre from Rudland Castle of great report and antiquitie which is termed Fons Sacer in English Holy-Well and is also commonly called S. Winefrids Well of whom antiquitie thus reporteth That Winefrid a Christian Virgin very faire and vertuous was doated vpon by a young lustfull Prince or Lord of the Country who not long able to rule his head-strong affections hauing many times in vaine attempted and tryed her chastitie both by rich gifts and large promises could not by any meanes obtaine his desires he therefore in a place of aduantage suddenly surprized and rauished her weake yet resisting body After the deed done the cruell Tyrant to stop her cries and acclamations slew her and cut off her head out of which place did suddenly arise a Spring that continueth to this day carrying from the Fountaine such a forcible streame and current as the like is not found in Christendome Ouer the head of the Spring there is built a Chappell of free stone with Pillars curiously wrought and engraued in the Chancell whereof and glasse window the picture of the Virgin is drawne together with the memoriall of her life and death To this Fountaine Pilgrims are accustomed to repaire in their zealous but blind deuotion and diuers others resort to bathe in holding firmely that the water is of much vertue There be many red stones in the bottome of this Well and much greene mosse growing vpon the sides the superstition of the people holding that those red spots in the stones were drops of the Ladies bloud which all the water in the Spring can neuer wash away and that the mosse about the wall was her haire which though some of it be giuen to euery stranger that comes yet it neuer wasteth But howsoeuer this be carried for truth by the tradition of time the mosse it selfe smels exceeding sweet There is also hard by Kilken a small village within this Countie a little Well of no great note that at certaine times riseth and falleth after the manner of Sea-tydes 9 In the South part of this Country diuided from the rest is a place in some written Coppies of Antonine called Bouium which we now terme Banchor first a Citie and afterwards a Monastery of famous memory and the first that is read of in the world wherein as Beda saith were a great number of Monkes and them diuided into seauen Companies euery one hauing his seuerall Ruler assigned None of these Companies had lesse then three hundred persons deuoted to prayer and to get liuing by their owne labour for themselues and the poore although it hath long since beene vtterly ruinate so as now there is scarce seene the face and outward shew of a dead Citie or Monastery It hath onely the names of two Gates remaining one standing a mile distant from another and betwixt which the Riuer Dee now runneth where are often times found many pieces of Romane Coyne and other tokens of antiquitie But of these shall be more mention made in the following History Another like Monastry but of lesser account stood in the Vale beneath Varis a little Citie placed the Romans in the confines of this Shire and Deabigh-shire and vpon the Ranke of Elwy and Cluyd This the Britaines call 〈◊〉 of the Riuer the Englishmen Asuph of the Founder and the Historiographers Asphensis It is more famouse for antiquitie then for building o◠brauery for about the yeare 560 Kentigein Bishop of Glas◠being fled 〈◊〉 out of Scotland placed here a Bishops See and erected a Monastry gathering together 66◠in a religious brotherhood whereof 300. that were vnlearned gaue themselues to husbandrie and to worke within the Monastery the rest to prayer and meditations When he returned into Scotland he ordained Asaph a godly and vpright man to be gouernous ouer this Monastery of whom it tooke the name and is called Saint Asaphs Another Monastry of great account was at Basingwarke in this County neere vnto which began that admirable Ditch drawne thence vnto the mouth of 〈◊〉 by King Offa the Tract whereof I haue expressed thorow this Shire and will further speake thereof in the following History ANGLESEY CHAPTER XIII ANGLESEY was in the time of the Romans called Mona by the Britaines Mon and Tir-Mon that is the Land of Mon of the ancient English-Saxons Moneg And at last after the Englishmen had by their sharpe and seuerall assaults brought it vnder their rules and became Lords thereof it was termed Anglesey as one would say The Englishmens Iland 2 For an Iland it is albeit it be seuered from the Continent of Britaine but with a small and narrow streight of the riuer Menai and on all other parts beaten vpon with the surging and troublous Irish Sea in which it lyeth somewhat square-wise not much different in length and breadth being where it reacheth out in length from Beau-marish Eastward to the vtmost Promontory West-ward which we call Holy-head twentie miles and in breadth from Llanbaderik North-ward to the point of Menai South-ward seauenteene miles the whole circuit or circumference amounting towards seauentie miles 3 The aire is reasonable gratefull and healthfull and not generally subiect to diseases excepting certaine Agues at some times which are occasioned by the sogs and misty exhalations which arise from the Sea called Mare Virginium with the which this Ile is encompassed 4 The Commodities that commend or rather beautifie this Country are in Corne and Cattle wherewith it not onely enricheth it selfe exceedingly
magnanimitie 9 But the Citie which fame may iustly celebrate alone beyond all the Cities or Townes in Ireland is that which we call Diuelin Ptoleâ—ie Eblana the Latinists Dublinium and Dublinia the West-Britaines Dinas Dulm the English-Saxons in times past Duplin and the Irish Balacleigh that is the Towne vpon hurdles for it is reported that the place being fennish and moorish when it first began to be builded the foundation was laid vpon hurdles 10 That it is ancient is perswaded by the authoritie of Ptolâ—mie That it was grieuously rent and dismembred in the tamultuous warres of the Danes and brought afterwards vnder the subâ—ection of Eadgar King of England which his Charter also confirmeth wherein he calleth it the noble Citie of Ireland is written by Saxo Grammaticus That it was built by Harold of Norway which may seeme to be Harold Harâ—ager when he had brought the greatest part of Ireland into an awfull obedience vnto him we reade in the life of Griffith ap Sâ—â—an Prince of Wales At length it yeelded vnto the valour and protection of the English at their first arriuall into Ireland by whom it was manfully defended from the fierce assaults as well of Auscoulph Prince of the Dâ—blinians as afterwards of Gottard King of the Isles since which time it hath still augmented her flourishing estate and giuen approued testimony of her faith and loyaltie to the Crowne of England in the times of any tumultuous streights and commotions 11 This is the royall seat of Ireland strong in her munition beautifull in her buildings and for the quantitie matchable to many other Cities frequent for trafficke and intercourse of Merchants In the East Suburbs Henry the second King of England as Hâ—ueden reporteth caused a royall Pallace to be erected and Henry Loundres Archbishop of Diuelin built a Store-house about the yeare of Christ 1220. Not farre from it is the beautifull Colledge consecrated vnto the name of the holy Trinitie which Queene Elizabeth of famous memory dignified with the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie The Church of S. Patricke being much enlarged by King Iohn was by Iohn Comin Archbishop of Dublin borne at Euesham in England first ordained to be a Church of Prebends in the yeare 1191. It doth at this day maintaine a Deane a Chanter a Chancellor a Treasurer two Archdeacons and twentie two Prebendaries This Citie in times past for the due administration of Ciuill Gouernment had a Prouost for the chiefe Magistrate But in the yeare of mans redemption 1409 King Henry the fourth granted them libertie to chuse euery yeare a Maior and two Bailistes and that the Maior should haue a gilt sword carried before him for euer And King Edward the sixt to heape more honour vpon this place changed the two Bailiffes afterwards into Sheriffes so that there is not any thing here wanting that may serue to make the estate of a Citie most flourishing 12 As the people of this County doe about the neighbouring parts of Diuelin come neerest vnto the ciuill conditions and orderly subiection of the English so in places farther off they are more tumultuous being at deadly feuds amongst themselues committing oft times Man-slaughter one vpon another and working their owne mischiefes by mutuall wrongs for so the Irish of Leinster wasted Leinster with many Townes in the same Prouince in the yeare 1294. And in the yeare 1301. the men of Leinster in like manner raised a warre in the winter season setting on fire the Towne of Wykâ—â—lo Rathdon and others working their owne plague and punishment by burning vp their sustenance and losing their Castle by depredation 13 Matter of obseruation and no lesse admiration among them is the Giants dance commonly so called and so much talked of which Merlin is said by Art Magicke to haue translated out of this Territorie vnto Salisburie Plaine which how true it is I leaue to the vaine beleeuers of miracles and to the credulous obseruers of antiquitie 14 In this County haue beene erected many famous Monasteries Abbies and religious houses consecrated to deuout and holy purposes As the Monastery of Saint Maries of Oustmanby â—ounded for preaching Friers vnto which of late dayes the Iudiciall Courts of the Kingdome haue beene translated also the magnificent Abbey called S. Thomas Court at Dublin builded and endowed in times past with many large priuiledges and reuenewes of King Henry the second in expiation of the murther of Thomas Arch-bishop of Canterbury Likewise Tiutern Monastery or the notable Abbey which William Marshall Earle of Pembrooke founded and called De roto for that he had vowed to God being tossed at Sea with many a sore and dangerous tempest to erect an Abbey wheresoeuer he came to land and being after shipwracke cast vpon land in this place he made performance of his vow accordingly THE PROVINCE OF CONNAVGHT CHAPTER IIII. THis Prouince named by Giraldus Cambrensis Conachtia and Conacia by the Irish Conaughty and by English-men Connaught is bounded East-ward with part of the County of Leinster North-ward with part of Vlster West-ward with the West-maine Ocean and on the South it is confined with a part of the Prouince of Mounster closed in with the Riuer Sbennon and butting against the Kingdome of Spaine 2 The forme thereof is long and towards the North and South ends thinne and narrow but as it growes towards the middle from either part it waxeth still bigger and bigger extending in length from the Riuer Shennon in her South to Enis Kelling in her North 126. miles and the broadest part is from Tromer in her East to Barragh-Bay in her West containing about fourescore miles The whole in circuit and compasse is aboue foure hundred miles 3 The aire is not altogether so pure and cleare as in the other Prouinces of Ireland by reason of certaine moist places couered ouer with grasse which of their softnesse are vsually termed Boghes both dangerous and full of vaporous and foggie mists 4 This County as it is diuided into seuerall portions so is euery portion seuerally commended for the soile according to the seasonable times of the yeare Twomond or the County Clare is said to be a Country so conueniently situated that either from the Sea or Soile there can be nothin wisht for more then what it doth naturally afford of it selfe were but the industry of the Inhabitants answerable to the rest Galway is a land very thankfull to the painefull husbandman and no lesse commodious and profitable to the Shepheard Maio in the Roman Prouinciall called Mageo is replenished both with pleasure and fertility abundantly rich in Cattle Deere Hawkes and plenty of Hony Slego coasting vpon the Sea is a plenteous Country for feeding and raising of Cattle Le-Trim a place rising vp throughout with hilles is so full of ranke grasse and forrage that as Solinus reporteth if Cattle were not kept sometimes from grasing their fulnesse would endanger them And Roscoâ—en is a Territory for the most part plaine and fruitfull feeding many Heards
of Cattle and with meane husbandry and tillage yeelding plentie of Corne As euery particular part is thus seuerally profitable by in-bred commodities so is it no lesse commended in the generalitie for the many accomodate and fit Bayes Creekes and nauigable Riuers lying vpon her Sea-coasts that after a sort inuite and prouoke the Inhabitants to nauigation 5 Such as in ancient time made their abode and habitations in this Prouince were the GANGANI who were also called CONCANI AVTERI and NAGNATAE As the Luceni that were next neighbours vnto them came from the Luceniji in Spaine so those Gangam and Coneani may seeme also to haue fetcht their deriuation from the Concan Nation of the selfe-same Country both by the affinitie of name and vicinitie of place In Strabo according to the diuersitie of reading the same people are named Coniaci and Conisci and Silius testifieth them at the first to haue beene Scythians and to haue vsed ordinarily to drinke horses bloud a thing nothing strange among the wilde Irish euen of late dayes And some may also happily suppose that the Irish name Conaughty was compounded of Concani and Nagnatae Howsoeuer it is sure that these were the ancient Inhabitants of this Country as is to be seene in Ptolemie 6 The principall Citie of this Prouince and which may worthily be accounted the third in Ireland is Galway in Irish Galliue built in manner much like to a Tower It is dignified with a Bishops See and is much frequented with Merchants by reason whereof and the benefit of the Road and Hauen it is gainfull to the Inhabitants through traffique and exchange of rich commodities both by Sea and Iland Not farre from which neere the West shoare that lies indented with small in-lets and out lets in a row are the Ilands called Arran of which many a foolish fable goes as if they were the Ilands of the liuing wherein none died at any time or were subiect to moralitie which is as supersitious an obseruation as that vsed in some other corners of the Country where the people leaue the right armes of their Infants males vnchâ—stned as they terme it to the end that at any time afterwards they might giue a more deadly and vngracious blow when they strike which things doe not onely shew how palpably they are carried away by traditious obscurities but doe also intimate how full their hearts be of inueterate reuenge 7 This â—ouince presents no matter more worthy of memory then the battle of Knoe-toe that is The â—ull of axes vnder which the greatest rabble of Rebels that were euer seene before in Ireland raised and gathered together by the Arch-Rebels of that time William Burk O Brien Mac-Nomare and O-Carrol were after a bloudy ouerthrow discomfited and put to flight by the noble seruice of Girald Fâ—â—z-Gâ—rald Earle of â—ildare And the suppression of certaine Irish the posteritie of Mac-William who vsurping a tyrannie in these parts raged sometimes vpon themselues with mutuall iniuries and oppressed the poore people a long time with extorting pilling and spoiling so as they left scarce one house in the Country vnrifled or vnrased but were bridled and repressed euen in our remebrance by the seueritie and resolution of the Commissioner of those their vniust doings would be a meanes to draw the people away from the due obedience to their Prince such therefore as refused to obey the lawes and sided with the tumultuous with all care and diligence he soone scattered forcing their Forts and driuing them into woods and lurking holes for troubling the blessed estate of tranquilitie till the Lord Deputie who tooke pitie of them vpon their humble supplication commanded by his missiues that they should be receiued vpon tearmes of peace But they being a stiffenecked people tooke armes againe entred a-fresh into actuall rebellion draue away booties made foule vprores and vpon faire promises procured the aid of the Scottish Ilanders from out of the Hebrides whereupon the Gouernour assembled an Armie and pursued them with such powerfull violence through the Woods and Forrests that after sixe or seauen weekes being grieuously hunger-bitten they submitted themselues in all humilitie The Auxiliarie Forces also of the Scots he by day and night affronted so neere and followed so hardly that he put them to flight after he had killed and drowned about three thousand of them in the Riuer Moin 8 About the yeare 1316. there was such a great slaughter made of the Irish in this Prouince of Connaught through a quarrell that arose there betweene two Lords or Princes that there were slaine on both sides about foure thousand men and so great a tribulation at that time came vpon the people that they did deuoure and eat one another so as of 10000. there remained not aboue 200. liuing And it is reported for truth that the people were then so hunger-starued that in Church-yards they tooke the dead bodies out of their graues and in their sculs boiled the flesh and fed vpon it yea and that women did eat their owne children Thus appeared the ire and anger of God in punishing their sinnes and seeking their conuersion 9 Places memorable are Inis Ceath well knowne by the Monastery of Colman a deuout Saint founded for Scots and Englishmen and Inis Bouind which Bede calleth White Calse Isle Also Maâ—o a Monastery built as Bede writeth for thirtie men of the English Nation Likewise the Barony of Boile vnder Carlew hilles where in times past was a famous Abbey built together with the Abbey of Beatitude in the yeare of grace 1152 These Abbeyes and Monasteries erected at the first for religious seruices and through ignorance and other obseurities diuerted since vnto superstitious vses are now made the ruines of time THE PROVINCE OF VLSTER CHAPTER V. THis Prouince called by our Welsh-Britaines Vltw in Irish Cui Guilly in Latine Vltonia and Vlidia in English Vâ—sier on the North is diuided by a narrow Sea from Scotland South-ward it extends it selfe to Connagh and Leinster the East part lieth vpon the Irish Sea and the West part is continually beaten with the boisterous rage of the maine West Ocean This Prouince and furthest part of Ireland affronteth the Scotish Ilands which are called the Hebrides and are scattered in the Seas betweene both Kingdomes whose Inhabitants at this day is the Irish-Scot successour of the old Scythian 2 The forme thereof is round reaching in length from Coldagh-Hauen in her North to Kilmore in her South neere an hundred miles and in bredth from Black-Abbey in her East to Calebegh point in her West one hundred thirtie and odde miles The whole in circumference about foure hundred and twentie miles 3 This Country seldome feeleth any vnseasonable extremities the quicke and flexible windes cooling the heat of Summer and soft and gentle showers mollifie the hardnesse of the Winter Briefly the frozen nor torrid Zone haue not here any vsurpation the clouds in the aire very sweet and pleasant yea and when they are most