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A51007 A new voyage to Italy with a description of the chief towns, churches, tombs, libraries, palaces, statues, and antiquities of that country : together with useful instructions for those who shall travel thither / by Maximilian Mission ; done into English and adorned with figures.; Nouveau voyage d'Italie. English Misson, Maximilien, 1650?-1722. 1695 (1695) Wing M2253; ESTC R28829 405,658 759

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have their defects It is seated in a flat Country and hath no Suburbs The Houses are built of that red kind of Stone of which I have spoken before or of Wood or Plaister covered with Slates The Meine which is a considerably large River leaves it on the Right A Stone Bridge which is four hundred paces long makes the Communication between Francfort and Saxenhausen Francfort is an Imperial City and hath a small Territory under its Government The Senate are Lutherans as also the greatest part of the Inhabitants The Roman Catholicks are in possession of the principal Church in which the Ceremony of anointing the Emperour is performed But they only carry the Host incognito and make no Processions in publick The Protestants whom they call Cavinists have the exercise of their Religion at Bochenheim which is a small hour's Walk from thence in the County of Hannau They are obliged to Marry and Christen in the Lutheran Churches We took a view * It was burned in the Year 1460. with the Records of the City Charlemain granted its freedom with very great Priviledges in the Town-house of the Chamber in which the Election of the Emperour is made and where is kept one of the Originals of the Golden Bull This Chamber hath nothing Magnificent there are only old Tapistry Hangings a great Table with a green Carpet and great Elbow-Chairs of black Velvet for the Electors On the side of this Chamber is the Hall where certain Ceremonies are observed which succeed the Election and when they are over the Emperour descends from the Hall and goes to the Church where he is Crowned The Golden Bull is a Book of twenty four Leaves of Parchment in Quarto which are sewed together and covered with another piece of Parchment without any Ornament The Seal is fastned to it by a silken String of many Colours and is covered with Gold so as it resembles a Medal It is two Inches and a half in breadth and a large Line in thickness Upon the Seal is the Emperour Charles IV. Seated and Crowned holding a Scepter in his Right-hand and the Globe in his Left The Shield of the Empire is on his Right and that of Bohemia on his Left And about it is written Carolus quartus divinâ favente clementiâ Romanorum Imperator semper Augustus and on each side near the two Scutcheons Et Bohemiae Rex On the Reverse there is a kind of a Gate of a Castle between two Towers which apparently denotes Rome this Verse being written about Roma Caput mundi regit orbis fraena rotundi And upon the Gate between the two Towers Roma aurea This Bull was given at Nuremberg in the Year 1356. by the Emperour Charles IV. with the consent of all the States of the Empire The design of the Institutors was that this Edict should be perpetual and irrerevocable yet * Particularly in the Treaties of Westphalia many Innovations have been made since It describes particularly the form of the Election of the Emperour or † The Emperour and the King of the Romans in the sence of the Bull are but one Person In it he is often called Head of the Faithful and first Prince of the Christian World The Bull is written in Latin the King of the Romans whom it frequently stiles the Temporal Head of the Christian World It regulates many things that relate to the Electors touching their Rank their Assemblies their Rights and Immunities the Right of Succession to the Electorate and the Manner after which every one of them is to perform his Function in publick Ceremonies It ordains these Princes to assemble once in the Year to settle the Affairs of the Empire The Elector of Saxony in conjunction with the Elector Palatine are declared Regents after the Death of the Emperour But things as you know having been changed in favour of the Duke of Bavaria that Elector pretends to the Regency 'T is a question whether the Vicariat be affixed to the Electorate in which the Duke of Bavaria was invested or if it remain to the House of the Counts Palatines Now there is a King of the Romans he is perpetual Vicar and Heir of the Empire It was for this reason that Philip II. had only the Kingdom of Spain for his share and that Ferdinand his Uncle who in the Life of Charles V. was elected King of the Romans came to be Emperour Francfort is the place appointed by the Bull for the Election of the Emperour Nevertheless Henry II. was chosen at Mentz and Henry III. at Aix la Chappelle This is no longer observed some have been also Elected at Cologne and others at Ausbourg and Ratishonne It was also ordained that the Emperour should be first Crowned at Aix which for a long time hath not been practised Every Elector may have * On the day of Electing the Emperour there is a whole Oxe served in a Dish roasted larded and stuffed with Wild Fowls and Venison After the Feast the Oxe is left to the People Borjou Dign Temp. two hundred Men as well for his Guard as his Attendance during the time of the Election And the Citizens of Francfort are to take care that no Strangers be found in their City at that time upon pain of losing their Priviledges This Bull contains many Regulations which I shall not at present relate The famous Treacle of Francfort is made there by Doctor Peters who is a skilful Apothecary and in other respects a very curious Person There are more than an hundred several Drugs that enter this Composition which are to be seen ranged in Pyramids on a long Table The Doctor hath many Antiquities and other Rarities amongst which he highly values a Stone taken out of a humane Body which is as big as ones head and cost him 1600 Crowns There are in this place a great number of Jews but they are as beggarly as those of Amsterdam are rich They wear their Beards piqued and have black Cloaks with puffed Ruffs they go from Tavern to Tavern to sell any thing to Strangers but being reputed Thieves you must take heed of ' em Moreover here is a Task imposed on them to run and fetch Water when any Fire happens in the City Of Francfort see further p. 117. You know the Fairs of Francfort contribute much to the Fame and Riches of that City There are Three in a Year which bring a considerable Trade to it The University was founded in the Year 1506 by Joachim and Albert of Brandenburgh I am SIR Yours c. At Francfort Nov. 7. 1687. LETTER VIII SIR AS we took Coach at Francfort to proceed on our Journey we observed the Coachman to put a little Salt upon each of his Horses with certain little Ceremonies which made part of the Mystery and this as he told us was to bring us good Luck and to preserve us from Charms and Witchcraft during our Voyage We passed the Rhine at Gernsheim and
tell you * Of the Ruines of Atella built by the Normans when they drove out the Saracens and the Greeks and seized on the Kingdom of Naples NAPLES called the Gentile I will not spend much time in giving you the Etymology of Naples It was destroyed saith the History and afterwards re-built by the Cumani who called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 to distinguish it from the Remains of the high City which they named or became so at the same time 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 you know both of them formerly bore the Name of Parthenope because some say that Ulysses and his Companions having escaped the inchanting Songs of the Mermaid Parthenope that Sea-Nymph in despair threw her self down headlong The Council of Lateran under Innocent III. in the Year 1215 took away the Greek Bishop who was Colleague to the Latin Bishop and was enterred at Palaeopolis Others pretend that one Parthenope Daughter of Eumelus King of Thessaly and Grand-daughter of Admetus and Alcesta brought a Colony thither from her Father's Estates and gave her own Name of Parthenope to this City which had then another Appellation now unknown Let it be as it will it appears by these Greek Names that Naples was built by the Grecians It is very large and well peopled but I cannot tell you exactly the Number of its Inhabitants nor any thing satisfactory of its Circuit the Figure of it being most irregular The Curious who have walked round the Walls reckon that it is nine Miles in compass and that it is eighteen if you include its seven Suburbs Altho' it hath endured terrible Assaults One of their Poets pleasantly said That Naples seems to have fallen from Heaven it is still one of the most noble and perhaps finest Cities in the World It is paved throughout with great square Stones cut to a Pattern The Streets are strait and most of them broad The Houses are high with flat Roofs and uniform Building London Paris Rome Venice and a great number of other Cities have in truth fine Noblemens Houses but these Houses are mixed with great a number of ordinary ones whereas Naples is generally all very fair The Sea makes a little Bay which washes it to the South To the North it hath rich Hills whereby you rise insensibly into Campagna Felice Eastward is a Plain which leads to Vesuvius and in the West is the high Town where are the Chartreux and the Castle of St. Erasmus The Prospect which we have of this Ascent is very charming I will give you an Account of it in the sequel Besides that the Houses of Naples are commonly great and well built there is a considerable number which deserve the Name of Palaces For Example Those of the Dukes of Matalone Gravina Airola and de la Tour of the Princes of St. Agatha Mont-milet Botera and Cellamara The Palace of the Vice-Roy is in a great Place the Front is regular and adorn'd with three Orders of Architecture It is near four hundred Feet in length of English Measure and is the Work of the famous Montana The three Castles which defend Naples the Academy which they call Studii Nuovi the Academy for riding the Great Horse the Convents the Hospitals the Arsenal and the Magazines for the Gallies are so many Edifices of very great Note There are many Fountains which contribute as well to the great Conveniency as Embellishment of the City And three of these Fountains are of an incomparable grandeur and beauty But that which seemed to us most extraordinary at Naples was the Number and Magnificence of the Churches It may be justly said that in this respect it surpasses Imagination If one would take a view of the fine Pieces of Architecture the Churches must be visited you must behold the Frontispiece the Portals the Chapels the Altars and the Tombs If you would look upon rare Pictures Sculptures and the rarety of Vessels of Gold and Silver you need but go to the Churches the Arches the Wainscots the Walls are all covered with pieces of precious Marble most artificially laid together or with Compartiments of Basso Relievo or of Joyners-work gilded and enriched with the Works of the most famous Painters There is nothing to be seen but Jasper Porphyrie Mosaick of all fashions and the Quintescence of Art I visited five and twenty or thirty of these stately Edifices where one still finds him self surprized afresh If it were possible to unite eight or ten together and make a regular Composition out of 'em all I believe it would be the most magnificent Structure in the World I dare not venture on an exact Description of so many Particulars yet cannot forbear to mention at least some of these Churches which we found most remarkable since perhaps it may be of use to you hereafter The Church of the Jesuits is an admirable Piece The Dome was painted by the Chevalier Lanfranc and which way soever you turn in this stately Temple all parts are enriched with most costly Ornaments from the Pavement to the Roof It is the same in St. Mary's of the Annonciata which we may justly say is of most splendid beauty The Religious may purchase from right to left all the neighbouring Houses til they come to be bounded by some Street so that there being no Street without a Convent they may purchase the whole City G. Burnet There you may see also that famous Hospital whose Revenue amounts to above two hundred thousand Ducats of Gold All is very rich and surprizing St. Philip of Neri Santa Maria la Nuovo St. Severin's St. Paul's St. Dominick's the Church and Monastery of Mount Olivet at the Church of the Holy Apostles St. John Carbonare the Cathedral the little Hospital and St. Mary's of Health I omit above three hundred others to avoid a tedious prolixity Nor will I take notice of their Treasures and Vestries which are replenished with prodigious Riches Two of the Theatines having led us into their Church of the Holy Apostles those good Fathers declared to us by the manner of their Discourse the poor condition of their Order who have say they more reason than any others to complain For if the Mendicants for Example have no proper Goods yet at least they have liberty to beg Whereas the poor and unhappy Theatines live only on God's Providence possessing nothing and not daring to ask any thing Arguing after this manner after they had made us observe the various Magnificencies of their Church they brought us into the Vestry where we found fourteen great Cupboards with double Doors all filled with Vessels of Gold and Silver and other precious Ornaments A Treasure of poor People sufficient to satisfie the most inordinate Ambition The great Convent of the Chartreux at St. Martin's is extraordinary full of rare and magnificent things The Monks who conducted us thither affirmed to us that under one Priorate there were laid out amongst them five hundred thousand Ducats in Silver
that Defect several Persons adorn the Balconies of their Houses with Flower-pots and some perhaps cover 'em with Earth when the Buildings are all to bear the weight of it these are the Gardens in the Air that make so great a noise in the World tho' there are many other things that are not so much as heeded which in this sence may be said to be in the Air. The most beautiful Edifices receiv'd no hurt by the French Bombs which were level'd directly at the Heart of the City where the Houses were thickest and 't is but too apparent they were not thrown there in vain for notwithstanding all the Reparations that have been made since there are at present above Five hundred ruinous Houses in one part of the City And most of the private Sufferers in that general Calamity had the double misfortune to lose all that they had by losing their Habitations so that they were not only incapacitated to rebuild 'em but even were not able to pay the charge of removing the Rubbish 'T is plain then that they who have a mind to see Genoa the Proud must not look for it here In the Church of Our Lady of the Vineyards they show'd us a Bomb which fell there without doing the least execution and I believe would gladly have told us that this was an Effect of its Reverence to so sacred a place if some less respectful Bombs had not thrown down four or five other Churches and as many Convents During that fatal showre of Fire and Brimstone the Doge with thirty Persons more took shelter in the great Hospital call'd the Albergo which being very high and large not only afforded a safe retreat to a great number of the Inhabitants but preserv'd a considerable part of their Goods for they brought thither all that could be carried They are at present working on a Third Mole which will stretch further into the Sea than the other two and they hope secure 'em against the danger of a second Assault The Haven of Genoa is large and of a convenient depth but it lies open to the Lubeccio or African Wind which is almost South West and is the most dangerous Wind that reigns in in this part of the Mediterranean So that they were forc'd to make a little secure Harbour within the Port for their Galleys of which at present they have only six to so small a number are the once formidable Navies of Genoa now reduc'd The Pharos or Watch-Tower is very high which here as at Rochel is call'd the Lanthorn Tower To see the whole City distinctly it must be view'd from three several places from the top of this Tower from the Sea about the distance of a mile and from the top of its Hill These three different Prospects are sufficient to give a compleat Idea of the Town The Doge of Genoa Vol. 2. P. 229. The Ladies usually appear in Gowns after the French manner and the ordinary Women wear little Fardingales The Noblemen never wear Swords They are not ty'd to any particular sort of Habit but they are usually cloth'd in black and in Cloaks They stile themselves Dukes Marquesses Counts c. whereas the Noble Venetians as I told you before assume none of these Titles We saw all the Members of the Senate assembl'd in a body and in their Formalities at the Procession on Corpus-Christi-Day The Doge was in a Crimson Gown with a sort of square Bonnet Two Battel-axes and a Sword in the Scabbard were carried before him and a Senator march'd on each side of him in black Gowns of the same fashion with his own The Doge is stil'd His Serenity the Senators The Doge ought to be Fifty years old compleat Their Excellencies and the Noblemen Most Illustrious 'T is true this last Title is not very honourable in Italy where 't is usually given to any man that wears a Ribbon in his Cravat yet the Genoese Noblemen as well as those of Venice compose the Great and Soveraign Council both these States being purely Aristocratical The Doge of Genoa has no more Authority than the Doge of Venice yet the first is crown'd with a Royal Crown of Gold and a Scepter is put into his Hand because of the Kingdom of Corsica which is actually under the Dominion of that Republic When the two years of the Doge's Administration are come to an end Deputies are sent to the Palace to tell him that His Serenity's time is expir'd and that His Excellency may retire to his own House To return to our Procession the Streets were hung with Tapestry and spread with green Herbs all the Windows were full of Ladies dress'd to the best advantage and deck'd with the richest Ornaments they could procure they had Baskets full of Flowers which they strew'd on the Procession according to the different Inclinations of their Hearts sometimes out of Devotion to * So they call the Sacrament the Most Holy and sometimes out of Civility or Affection to the young Gentlemen of their acquaintance who follow'd the Procession all their Peruques were powder'd with 'em and for every handful of Favors they receiv'd they made low Reverences to their fair Benefactresses The Church of the Annunciata is the finest in Genoa but notwithstanding all its Beauty and Magnificency 't is far inferiour to many that I have already describ'd and therefore I will not trouble you with a particular account of it I shall only observe that it was built at the charge of one † Of the Family Lomellino Citizen of Genoa which is the most remarkable thing that can be said of it I will not lose time in relating the Story of the Crucifix at St. Jerome's which spoke to St. Bridget tho' the rare Discourse that pass'd between 'em might perhaps divert you for some Moments At St. Mary's of the Castle there is another In the Cathedral there is a great Dish made of one single Emerald in which if you will believe the common Tradition the Paschal Lamb was serv'd up when Christ eat the Passover with his Disciples Venerable Beda says the Lamb was brought in a Silver Dish but Madam St. Bridget thought fit to substitute one of Ivory and why might not you or I with as much reason venture to say that it was an Earthen Dish Du Val thinks this Emerald Dish was one of the Presents which the Queen of Sheba made to Solomon which is particularly honour'd by Maids for the following reason A Gentleman who had for a long time courted a young Lady with a design to deceive her resolv'd at last to have recourse to the usual Stratagem of gaining his Mistriss by a Promise of Marriage which he did says the Story in a place of the City where this Crucifix stood at that time I will not undertake to describe all that pass'd between 'em on this occasion but the Gentleman refus'd to fulfill his Promise The abus'd Lady enter'd an Action against him but
tell you that there is a Church for Germans and another for Italians in this City and there was also an English Church formerly The most considerable Italian Families I know besides those mention'd in my Letter from Lucca are those call'd Gallatin Sartoris Puerari Leger Minutoli Stoppa Diodati Offredi Cerduini and * Rubbati Franconi Malcontent Butini Bartolone Carnelli Servini Mirollio Lambercier Pelissari Martini c. I think there are eight or ten more The † If there is any credit to be given to the little Book call'd Scaligerana the Savoyard Tongue was us'd in the Council in Jos Scaliger's time and all Men were prohibited under pain of being fin'd to speak any other Savoyard Language is commonly spoken here but all that are rais'd above the Dregs of the People speak also French 'T is true their Dialect is none of the purest but 't is at the least as good as any that are us'd in most Provinces of France About four small leagues from Geneva between the Fort of Sluys and Mount Credo the Rhone tumbles down a Precipice among the Rocks and disappears entirely for some space and therefore they who intend to go from Geneva to Lyons by Water are forc'd to embark at Seissel below the Fall and Rising again of the River I am SIR Your c. Geneva July 12 1688. LETTER XXXV SIR THERE cannot be a more pleasant way than the Road between Geneva and Lausanne for the whole way seems to be one continued Hillock very populous and well till'd We rarely lost sight of the Lake and sometimes on the other side we saw Piles of lofty and forked Mountains glittering with Snow The first night after our departure from Geneva we lay at the little Town of Morges Morges on the Bank of the Lake from thence we discover'd the Smoke of a Fire that did a great deal of mischief at Vevay towards the end of the Lake as we were inform'd next morning LAUSANNE The situation of Lausanns is extreamly rough and uneven We stop'd not there nor in any of the little Towns we met with afterwards there being nothing in 'em worth observation Morat On the Bank of the Lake Morat we took notice of a kind of Chapel which is quite fill'd with the Bones of those Burgundians that were defeated in that place * On the 20th of July 1476 we observ'd the following Inscription D. O. M. Caroli inclyti fortissimi Ducis Burgundiae Exercitus Muratrum obsidens ab Helvetiis caesus hoc sui monumentum reliquit A. 1476. to the number of Eighteen Thousand by the joint Forces of Lorrain and Switzerland Bern is not a large City BERN. tho' 't is the Metropolis of the most potent Canton in Switzerland Only married Persons are admitted into the Council G. Burnet it is almost wholly built of hewn Stone but the Buildings are more solid than beautiful the Streets are clean parted by a Rivulet that runs in the middle on each side of which there are cover'd Walks under Portico's but they are too narrow This City was built in the year * Others say 1191. On the 6th of March 1352 this City enter'd into the Swiss Confederacy J. Simler 1175 by Berthold IV Duke of Zeringhen and the common Opinion is that it had its name from a Bear that was taken there when its Foundations were laid the word Bern signifying a Bear in the German Language for which reason also it bears that Animal in its Coat of Arms and there are Bears kept and fed here as those of Geneva breed Eagles In this City we only visited the Arsenal and the great Church the first of which is very well furnish'd and in good condition In one of the Halls there is a Statue of that † William Tell. Citizen of Switz who with an Arrow shot down an Apple that was plac'd on the Head of his own Child fifty paces from him and they are both represented in that posture You know that cruel and extravagant Humour of the Governor Grisler join'd to several other Grievances of the same nature ‖ An. 1307 under the Empire of Albert I. gave birth to the Swiss Republic Childrey relates among other English Prodigies That one Robert Bone of Cornwal shot a little Bird on the Back of a Cow but this last Archer did not run so great a hazard as the other The following Inscription was lately plac'd over the Gate of the House appointed for Manufactories * I 'm inform'd this Inscription was remov'd in October 1692 at the desire of the French Ambassador Tempore quo crassa Clericorum Ignorantia cum gratia Privilegio Regis in verum Dei cultum fureret atque DRACONUM operâ eos quos Huguenotes vocant ferro flammâ omnis generis cruce è Regno pelleret Supremus Magistratus è ruderibus Coenobii olim Praedicatorum has Aedes extruxit ut Pietatem simul Artem Galliâ exulantes hospitalibus tectis exciperet Faxit Deus T. O. M. ut Charitatis hoc opificium sit incremento Patriae When the blind Ignorance of the Clergy supported by the King 's Favor and Authority rag'd against the true Worshippers of GOD and by a Mission of Dragoons with fire and Sword and all manner of Torments drove those whom they call Huguenots out of the Kingdom This House was erected by order of the Supreme Magistracy out of the Ruins of an old Monastery of Praedicant Fryars that Religion and Art banish'd together out of France might here find a Hospitable Entertainment May it please the most Great and Good GOD that this Work of Charity may turn to the Advantage of our Country In the Church that belong'd to the Dominicans they preserve some Monuments of that memorable piece of Roguery acted by the Jacobin Fryars of which you may have read an account in Lavater's Treatise of Specters Henry Stephen relates it at length and Nicholas Manuel who translated it into the German Tongue says That it has been publish'd in all Languages The Story in short is thus After several violent Debates between the Jacobins and Cordeliers concerning the Conception of the Virgin whom these last maintain'd to be exempted from Original Sin * John Vetter Stephen Boltzhorst Francis Ulchi and Hen. Steniker four Jacobins of Bern at the earnest solicitation of several others of the same Order undertook to prove their Assertion by a Miracle to carry on which design they resolv'd to counterfeit Apparitions and under borrow'd shapes to speak in the night to a simple † John Jetzer Novice and after many subtile Contrivances they proceeded to make the Virgin her self tell him that she was conceiv'd in Sin hoping to perswade the People by the noise of these Apparitions The Plot succeeded for some time according to their desire the Novice was deceiv'd he related his Visions the People repair'd to him as to a Saint or Prophet and the Opinion of the