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A30142 Letters write [sic] to a friend by the learned and judicious Sir Andrew Balfour ... containing excellent directions and advices for travelling thro' France and Italy, with many curious and judicious remarks and observations made by himself, in his voyages thro' these countreys, published from the author's original m.s. Balfour, Andrew, Sir, 1630-1694. 1700 (1700) Wing B552; ESTC R5283 102,544 331

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large Room wanscoted about with Firr-●●ords and for Fireing every Log of Wood they put on is like the End of a Ships-Mast Our Beds for the most part were at the sides of the Room within the Wal all boorded abou● like a Ships Cabbin and for Courtens having two folding leaves which you may shut or leave open at pleasure Upon our first Arrival into this Room we were presented with a Collation of very good Wine Bread Butter and Cheese and then a Guide given us to conduct us up the Hill yet half a Mile further to see St. Bruno's Chapel that stands in the place where he did his Pennance for many Years together as they will more particularly inform you as you returne they will let you see another Chapel Dedicated to our Lady By that time you are returned to the Monasterie it will be time to Supp and then according to your number you will be treated with more or fewer Dishes We were only six in Companie and we had above 30 Dish of Meat but there was not above three or four Varieties except in the way of dressing for that they are admirable I believe we had at least a Dussen of different dishes of Eggs all prepared in different maners the rest were a few Fishes and Fritato's for seeing they never eat Flesh themselves it cannot be exspected they should give it to any other Body within their Monasterie The next Morning the Prefect conducts you thorow the House shewes you the different Apartments and particularlie to us was shown that of the English Nation which they used to Assigne for them in former times but now because of their defection from the Faith they have given it to the German Nation They show you painted about the Walls the severall Torments Deaths inflicted upon those of thei● Order in England in the time of King Henry the 8. Queen Elizabeth They let you see the Church the Library the Refectory the Religious Cells the Kitchen which is the best I have seen in France after that of the Jesuits at L●-Flesch and lastly the Cellers which are well enough furnished but nothing so well as those at Naples of the same Order If any Gentleman be desirous to see the General and speake with him it will be granted him and he will find him very Civil All this being done you Breakfast the Prefect waits upon you to the Gate where your Horses attend you and your Arms are delivered you so leaveing a little Drink-Money to the Servan●s about a Crown a Head for Gentlemen you take leave and returne again to Granoble I must only add that all this Hill over there is excellent Herbarizing From Granoble to Lions you have a Matter of 15 leagues in which there is little considerable From Chamberrie to Lions there is 16 leagues but nothing considerable upon the way save only that within 2 Miles of Chamberrie you have only the Gabelette to pass which is a very steep and high Mountain in several parts precipicious especiallie on the Savoy side yet you mount that side on your own Horses and must carrie along with you from Chamberrie Porters to carrie you down the Hill on the French side I think you will pay but half a Crown for your two Porters and you will find them as dexterous in their Trade as those of Mount Ceni's Some that have a mind to see Geneva pass the Alps either by the Mount Sampion or the Mount St. Bernard and so from Geneva either go straight to Lio●s which is a Matter of 26 Leagues or else from Geneva go to Chamberrie which is 12 Leagues and from thence to Montmelian the Grand Charterhouse and so pass by Granoble to Lions This is all that occurs to my Memorie at present concerning this Journey In truth I am very sensible that it might have been much more accurat had I been so diligent as to write of it in the time I made the Journey when all things were fresh in my Memorie But that occasion being lost I had no more left me but to Recol●ect my Thoughts as carefully as I could to satisfie your desire the rather because I am hopefull it will provoke you to make a more diligent Inquiry after all things and to set them down Orderly without trusting your Memorie This I conjure you to do and assure your self it is one of the greatest things I will expect from you at your return I confess I have been somewhat prolix in my narration but if you consider the vastness and Fertilitie of the Subject you will find few Towns in Italy of which there might not have been more said than I have said of them all this you will easily find to be true if you please to make a Collection of those Books that are writen of the Antiquities and Curiosities of each of them For there is scarcelie any Town in Italy where you may not find such Books However such as it is I offer it you and wish it were better for your sake for whole service it was only undertaken aud if it prove acceptable and usefull to you I have my designe I shall o●lie add that it had been sent you much sooner had not the Necessitie of an Extraordinarie attendance upon this Winter-Session so often withdrawn me together with the other Duties of my Profession which I was Obliged to perform Postscript A List of those Things which I desire The Laird of LEVINGSTONE to procure for me in Italy 1. All the new Books of Physick Botany and that any way relate to the Historie of Nature that have been printed since the 64. and of Old Books Aldrovandi's works at Bolognia together with any other he can meet with that was contained in the first List I gave him when he parted from hence as also at Rome I desire him to buy me a Book in Taildouce containing all the Antiquities Palaces Statues Churches Villa's Fountains Pyramids c. in Rome I would have it of the best largest and finest Impression and if you cannot get them so in one Book I would have you take them in severall Fashions as you can best find them You may inquire appresso Giacomo di Rossi a la Pace in Roma Also Caroli Avantij Paraleipomena Botanica if it be to be had for I never saw it onlie he promiseth it in his Notes in Caenam Baptiste Fiera 4. Patav 1649. 2. At Florence I desire that you would remember to procure me a small Parcel of all the Varieties of Stones you can come by The readie way will be to inquire for them at the Stone Cutters in the great Dukes Chapel at St. Laurence Church or else at the Work-men that work in Stone for Cabinets at the Dukes Gallerie But above all of these two kinds of Stone that are most comon at Florence whereof the one Represents Trees and Forrests the other Towns and Villages I would have of each two or three large handsome choise Peeces fitt to
Travels in our Language too and a Voyage of another Countryman of ours through France and Italy writen in a pure Stile of Latine may be published for the satisfaction of such as are Curious of Travells Farewell LETTER I. CONTAINING An Account of what is remarkable in and about London c. And in and about Paris c. Sir I Cannot inform You of any thing considerable on this side London except it please you when you are got the le●gth of Huntington to turn six or seven miles out of the road to see Cambridge which I doe truly think worth the while in regard it is one of the two famous Universities of England where if it please you You may take Notice of the number structure and order of the Colledges c. but particularly of the Libraries and Gardens as also of the Book-sellers Shops in the town-where possibly you may meet with something that you shal not meet with any where els in order to this it would be convenient to have some letter of recomendation or adress to some member of the University whom you might be sure upon this account to find very ready to serve you I am sorry that I cannot help you in this particular having never been in this place my self But I think if you address your self to Mr. Ray who wrote and published the Catalogue of plants growing about Cambridge upon the score of seeing that place and himself as a Person so deserving especially in the knowledge of plants of which you are also a verie great lover I make no doubt you shall find him as ready to oblidge you there as you use to be to any Virtuoso here At London I shall advise you to lodg in or about Convent-garden as a place most commodious for your business I thought it necessar to accompany you only with two leters of recommendation the one to Dr. Morisone whom I think the best Botanist in the world and a most honest and obliging friend By his means you will easily see all that is considerable of Plants about London and purchase what seeds that place affoords The other is to Mr. Scott a Book-seller dwelling in Little-Britain by whose means you may be furnished with any Book that may be be had in London and I think as reasonably as else-where notwithstanding you will ' doe well to see other shops as particularly Mr. Bees and Mr. Pulleyns both of them in Little-Britain As for the other beauties of the Court and City I need not say much being you will easily be informed of them upon the place I shall only hint at some of the most considerable And first at Whythall be pleased to take Notice of the ●anquetting-house you will find it of a stately fabrick such as the late King designed to have all the Palace of it was built by King James the historie of whose diefication you wil find Painted on the roofe within by the noble artist Rubens only you will find the Figures too big occasioned by the Painters misinformation concerning the Hight of the Room which he was made beleeve to be greater The King 's privy Rooms are worth the seeing because of their excellent Ornaments of Hangings and Pictures 2 The Palace of Westminster in which I find the great Hall only considerable for its great breadth and artificiall roof 3. Henry VII Chappel and the tombs in and near it 4. You will do well upon some Holy-day if any happen during your abode there to see the King at Divine service in regard of the extraordinary state used on such dayes as also of the excellent Musick I would advise you likwise to see the King dine on some such day 5. The Tower in which be curious to see the Mint Crown Scepter Treasury the Magazine of ancient arms c. and the new Arsenall built and furnished by the present King The wild Beasts 6. Gresham-Colledge where the Exchange is now kept inquire there for Dr. Pope that by his means you may see a verie fine collection of naturall rarities kept in that Colledge He will likewise carry you to see the Royall society if you so desire 7. The King and Dukes play-houses 8. The Innes of Court especially the Temple Lincolns Inn and Gray's Inn. 9. The New Exchange and not farr from it Sommerset-House 10. St. James's-House and Park 11. If yow please to take a pair of Oares the length of Greenwich you will see the Kings new House that is a building there and if you please to walk up to the Hill above it You will have a prospect up and down the river which the multitude of goodly ships the pleasantness of of the Countrey about and our Countreyman John Barcly's curious Description and Commendation of it render most famous 12. For the rest I shall only put you in mind that about London there are such places as Wimbletone belonging now to the Earle of Bri●●o● but lately to the Queen-Mother and in the time of the Rebellion possest by Lambert who imbellished the Garden thereof with great variety of plants Hampton-Court and Park belonging to the Kings Majesty I shall likewise put You in mind that Oxfoord is but fifty miles from London and that it is one of the most famous Universities in the world both for the number and structure of the Colledges and Halls and for the multitude of ●●udents and competency of their provision The chief Colledges are Christs Church Magdalens All-Souls St. John's c. Baliol Colledg was founded by a Scots King's father of that name The Schools is a stately Fabrick where there is kept a most magnificent Librarie for Number of Books beyond any that ever I saw there is besides near Magdalen-Colledge a Physicall Garden when You resolve to goe thither Dr. Moreson wil recommend You to such persons as will be carefull to shew you every thing From London to Paris the best way is to goe by Dover and Calais that you may returne by Die● and Rye except you make account to returne by Flanders in which case I advise you rather to goe by Rye and Deip because Rouen which otherwise will not fall to be in your way is a more considerable place and better worth the seeing than any thing upon the way of Calais For your accommodation from London to Rye you may either take post or enquire for the Rye Carrier at the Kings Head in Southwark he will furnish You sadle Horses for 12. sh. a man and if You have anie baggage he will carrie it at an easie rate by this way You will arrive at Rye in two dayes where You may lodge at the Marmaid untill You find an Oportunitie of passage for which if there be Passingers enough You must pay 10. sh. but if there be few passingers You will be obliged to pay more At Deip be pleased to lodge A la Bastile the master of the House hath a Son that speaks English and they are all verie civil people You may see