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A12718 England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland described and abridged with ye historic relation of things worthy memory from a farr larger voulume done by Iohn Speed.; Theatre of the Empire of Great Britaine. Abridgements Speed, John, 1552?-1629.; Keere, Pieter van den, ca. 1571-ca. 1624, engraver.; Camden, William, 1551-1623. Britannia. 1627 (1627) STC 23035; ESTC S103213 178,357 376

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West hath not obstinately ceased from time to time to flash and mangle it and with his fell irruptions and boysterous Tides to de●oure it Another thing there is not vnworthy to be recommended to memory that in this Shire not far from Fournesse Fell●s the greatest standing water in all England called Winander-Mere lieth stretched out for the space of ten miles of wonderfull depth and all paued with stone in the bottome and along the Sea-side in many places may be seene heapes of sand vpon which the people powre water vntill it recouer a 〈◊〉 humour which they afterwards boile with Turffes till it become white salt 8 This Country as it is thus on the one side freed by the naturall resistance of the Sea from the force of Inuasions so is it strengthned on the other by many Castles and fortified places that take away the opportunitie of making Roades and Incursions in the Country And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons crueltie so was it the last and longest that was subdued vnder the West-Saxons Monarchie 9 In this Prouince our noble Arthur who died laden with many trophics of honour is reported by Ninius to haue put the Saxons to flight in a memorable battle neere Duglasse a little Brooke not farre from the Towne of Wiggin But the attempts of warre as they are seuerall so they are vncertaine for they made not Duke Wade happy in his successe but returned him an vnfortunate vnterpriser in the Battle which he gaue to Arduiph King of Northumberland at Billangho in the yeare 798 So were the euents vncertaine in the Ciuill Warres of Yorke and Lancaster for by them was bred and brought forth that bloudy diuision and fatall strife of the Noble Houses that with variable successe to both parties for many yeares together molested the peace and quiet of the Land and defiled the earth with bloud in such violent manner that it exceeded the horrour of those Ciuill Warres in Rome that were betwixt Mariu● and Scylla Pompey and Caesar Octauius and Antony or that of the two renowned Houses Valoys and Eurbon that a long time troubled the State of France for in the diuision of these two Princely Families there were thirteene Fields sought and three Kings of England one Prince of Wales twelue Dukes one Marques eighteene Earles one Vicount and three and twentie Barons besides Knights and Gentlemen lost their liues in the same Yet at last by the happy marriage of Henry the seauenth King of England next heire to the House of Lancaster with Elizabeth daughter and heire to Edward the Fourth of the House of Yorke the white and red Roses were conioyned in the happy vniting of those two diuided Families from whence our thrice renowned Soueraigne Lord King Iames by faire sequence and succession doth worthily enioy the Di●deme by the benefit of whose happy gouernment this Countie Palatine of Lancaster is prosperous in her Name and Greatnesse YORKE-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXVIII AS the courses and confluents of great Riuers are for the most part fresh in memory though their heads and fountaines lie commonly vnknowne so the latter knowledge of great Regions are not traduced to obliuion though perhaps their first originals be obscure by reason of Antiquitie and the many reuolutions of times and ages In the delineation therefore of this great Prouince of Yorkshire I will not insist vpon the narration of matters neere vnto vs but succinctly run ouer such as are more remote yet neither so sparingly as I may seeme to diminish from the dignitie of so worthy a Country nor so prodigally as to spend time in the superfluous praising of that which neuer any as yet dispraised And although perhaps it may seeme a labour vnnecessary to make relation of ancient remembrances either of the Name or Nature of this Nation especially looking into the difference of Time it selfe which in euery age bringeth forth diuerse effects and the dispositions of men that for the most part take lesse pleasure in them then in divulging the occurrents of their owne times yet I hold it not vnfit to begin there from whence the first certaine direction is giuen to proceede for euen of these ancient things there may be good vse made eitherby imitation or way of comparison as neither the repetition nor the repetition thereof shall be accounted impertinent 2 You shall therefore vnderstand That the Countie of Yorke was in the Saxon tongue called Ebona-yeyne and now commonly Yorkeshire farre greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles then any Shire of England Shee is much bound to the singular loue and motherly ca●● of Nature in placing her vnder so temperate a clime that in euery measure she is 〈…〉 If one part of her be stony and a sandy barren ground another is fertile and richly adorned with Corne-fields If you here finde it naked and destitute of Woods you shall see it there shadowed with Forrests full of trees that haue very thicke 〈◊〉 sending forth many fruitfull and profitable branches If one place of it be Moorish Mirie and vnpleasant another makes a free tender of delight and presents it selfe to the eye full of beautie and contentiue varietie 3 The Bishopricke of Durham fronts her on the North-side and is seperated by a continued course of the Riuer Tees The Germaine Sea lieth sore vpon her Bast side beating the shores with her boisterous waues and billowes The West part is bounded with Lancashire and Westmerland The South-side hath Cheshire and Darbishire friendly Neighbours vnto her with the which she is first inclosed then with Nottingham and with Lincolne-shires after diuided with that famous Arme of the Sea Humber Into which all the Riuers that water this Country emptie themselues and pay their ordinary Tributes as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune for all the watery Pensions of this Prouince 4 This whole Shire being of it selfe so spatious for the more easie and better ordering of her ciuill gouernment is diuided into three parts which according to three quarters of the world are called The West-Riding The East-Riding and The North-Riding West-Riding is for a good space compassed with the Riuer Ouse with the bounds of Lancashire and with the South limits of the Shire and beareth towards the West and South East-Riding bends it selfe to the Ocean with the which and with the Riuer Derment she is inclosed and lookes into that part where the Sunne rising and shewing forth his beames makes the world both glad and glorious in his brightnesse North-Riding extends it selfe Northward 〈◊〉 in as it were with the Riuer Tees and Derwent and a long race of the Riuer Ouse The length of this Shire extended from Ha●thill in the South to the mouth of Tees in the North are neere vnto seauentie miles the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-castle vpon the Riuer 〈◊〉 is fourescore miles the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles 5 The Soile of this County for the
is fourescore and two miles 3 The ayre is so cold and sharpe being bordering vpon the 〈◊〉 parts and for her shelter hauing but a wall of water They haue few woods onely they light sometimes vpon so subterranean trees buried vnder the ground by digging vp the earth for a ●lammie kinde of 〈◊〉 which they vse for fuell 4 The soile is reasonable fruitfull both for Cattle Fish and Corne yet it rather commendeth the paines of the people then the goodnesse of the ground for by the industry of the Inhabitants it ●eeldeth sufficiency of euery thing for it selfe and sendeth good store into other Countries It hath fields by good manuring plenteous of Barley and Wheat but especially 〈…〉 and from hence it comes that the people eate most of all Oaten-bread It beares abundance of 〈◊〉 and Flaxe and is full of mightie flockes of sheepe and other Cattell yet are they smaller in body then we haue in England and are much like to the Cattle in Ireland that are neighbouring vpon it 5 This commoditie makes this Iland more happie then we are here for the people are there free from vnnecessary commencements of Suites from long and dilatory Pleas and from friuolous feeing of Lawyers No Iudge or Clerks of the Court take there any penny for drawing Instruments or making of Processes All Controuersies are there determined by certaine Iudges without writings or other charges and them they call Deemsters and chuse forth among themselues If any complaint be made to the Magistrate for wrongs eyther done or suffred he presently taketh vp a stone and fixeth his marke vpon it and so deliuereth it vnto the partie plaintiffe by vertue of which he both cals his aduersary to appearance and to produce his witnesses If the case fall out to be more litigious and of greater consequence then can easily be ended it is then referred to twelue men whom they terme The Keyes of the Iland Another happinesse enricheth this Iland namely the securitie and gouernment thereof as being defended from neighbour enemies by Souldiers that are prest and ready for on the South-side of the I le stands Bala-Curi the Bishops chiefe place of residence and the Pyle and a Block-house standing in a little Iland where there is a cōtinuall Garrison of Souldiers And it is so well managed for matter of rule and ciuill discipline that tuery man there possesseth his owne in peace and safetie No man liues in dread or danger of losing what he hath Men are not there inclined to robbing or theeuing or licentious liuing 6 The Inhabitants of this Iland are for the most part religious and louing to their Pastors to whom they doe much reuerence and respect frequenting daily to diuine Seruice without diuision in the Church or innouation in the Common-weale The wealthier sort and such as hold the fairest possessions doe imitate the people of Lanca-shire both in their honest carriage and good house-keeping Howbeit the common sort of people both in their language and manners come nighest vnto the Irish although they somewhat rellish and fauour of the qualities of the Norwegians 7 Things not worthy to be buryed in the graue of obliuion are that this Iland in the midst thereof riseth vp with hils standing very thicke amongst which the highest is called Sceafull from whence vpon a cleare and faire day a man may easily see three Kingdomes at once that is Scotland England and Ireland This I le prohibits the customary manner ofbegging from doore to doore detesting the disorders as well Ciuill as Ecclesiasticall of neighbour Nations And last not least that deserues to be committed to memory is that the women of this Country wheresoeuer they goe out of their doores gird themselues about with the winding-sheete that they purpose to be buried in to shew themselues mindfull of their mortalitie and such of them as are at any time condemned to dye are sowed within a sacke and flung from a rocke into the Sea 8 The whole Isle is diuided into two parts South and North whereof the one resembleth the Scotish in speech the other the Irish It is defended by two Castles and hath seauenteene Parishes fiue Market-Townes and many Villages A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN CHAPTER XLIIII IT is here very pertinent to the purpose to insert a small History of this Iland that the atchieuements heretofore had may not be vtterly buryed although they are waxen very old and almost torne from remembrance by the teeth of Time It is confessed by all that the Britaine 's held this Iland as they did all Britaine But when the Nations from the North ouerflowed those South parts like violent tempests it became subiect to the Scots Afterwards the Norwegians who did most hurt from the Northerne Sea by their manifold robberies made this Iland and the Hebrides to be their baunt and erected Lords and petry Kings in the same as is expressed in this Chronicle written as is reported by the Monkes of the Abbey of Russin A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN ANno Dom. 1065. Edward of blessed memory King of England departed this life and Harald the Sonne of Godwyn succeeded him in the Kingdome against whom Harald Harfager King of Norway came into the field and fought a Battle at Stainford-bridge but the English obtaining the victory put them all to flight Out of which chase Godred surnamed Crovan the sonne of Harald the blacke of Iseland came vnto Godred the sonne of Syrric who Raigned then in Man and honourably receiued him 2 The same yeare William the Bastard Conquered England and Godred the son of Syrric died his sonne Fingal succeeding him 3 An. 1066. Godred Crovan assembled a great Fleet and came to Man and sought with the people of the Land but receiued the worst and was ouercome The second time renewing his Forces and his Fleet he failed into Man and ioyned Battle with the Manksmen but was vanquished as before and driuen out of the field Howbeit what he could not at first bring to passe with power in those two seuerall onsers he afterward effected by policie For the third time gathering a great multitude together he arriued by night in the hauen called Ra●sey and hid three hundred men in a Wood which stood vpon the hanging hollow brow of an hill called Sceafull The Sunne being risen the Manksmen put their people in order of Battle and with a violent charge encountred with Godred The fight was hot for a time and stood in a doubtfull suspence till those three hundred men starting out of the Ambush behinde their backes began to foile the Manksmen put them to the worst and forced them to flie Who seeing themselues thus discomfited and finding no place of refuge left them to escape with pitifull lamentation submitted themselues vnto Godred and besought him not to put to the sword such poore remainder of them as was left aliue Godred hauing compassion on their calamities for he had beene nursed for a time and brought vp among
for the whole Empire giuing to those Captaines that serued here many Ensignes of great honor yea Claudius gaue Plantius the first Prefect of that Prouince the right hand as he accompanyed him in his Triumph and his owne Triumph of Britaine was set out with such magnificence that the Prouinces brought in golden Crownes of great waight the Gouernours commanded to attend and the very Capt●ines permitted to be present at the same A Nauall Coronet was fixed vpon apinnacle of his Pallace Arches and Trophees were raysed in Rome and himselfe on his aged knees mounted the staires into the Capitoll supported by his two sonnes in Law so great a ioy conceiued he in himselfe for the Conquest of some small portion of Britaine ENGLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION CHAPTER II. THE Saxons glory now neere to expire by his appointment who holdeth both times and Kingdomes in his all ordering hand their owne Swords being the Instruments and the Danes the maules that beat their beautifull Diadem into pieces the Normans a stirring Nation neyther expected nor much feared vnder the leading of William their Duke and encouragement of the Romane Bishop an vsuall promoter here of broken titles made hither sodainly into England who in one onely battell with the title of his sword and slaughter or Herold set the Emperiall Crowne thereof vpon his owne head which no sooner was done but the English went downe and the Normans lording it became Owners of those Cities which themselues neuer built possessed those Vineyards which they neuer planted dranke of those Wells which they neuer had digged and inhabitted those houses filled with riches for which they neuer had laboured for they found it to be as the land whereupon the Lord set his eye euen from the beginning to the end of the yeare not onely drinking water of the raine of heauen but hauing also riuers of waters and fountaines in her valleyes and without all scarsitie whose stones are yron and out of whose mountaines is digged brasse This made them more resolute at first to settle themselues in this fairest and fruitfullest part of the Iland the Conquerour vsing all policie both Martiall and Ciuill to plant his posteritie here for euer How he found the Land gouerned we shewed in the Heptarchy but his restlesse thoughts were not contented with conquering the Nation and their Land vnlesse he also ouercame their very Customes Lawes and Language 2 Touching the distribution of the Kingdome whereas other Kings before him made vse of it chiefly for the good of the people and better ministring of Iustice he made vse of it to know the wealth of his Subiects and to enrich his Coffers for he caused a description to be made of all England how much land euery one of his Barons possessed how many Knights fees how many Plow lands how many in villenage how many head of beasts yea how much money euery man from the greatest to the least did possesse and what rents might be made of entry mans possession the Booke of which inquisition yet in the Exchequer was called Domesday for the generalitie of that Iudgement on all the Land Whereunto we may adde his other distribution of this Land worse then any former when thrusting the English out of their possessions he distributed their inheritances to his Souldiers yet so that all should be held of the King as of the onely true Lord and possessor 3 For the Lawes by which he meant to gouerne he held one excellent rule and purpose which was that a People ought to be ruled by Lawes written and certaine for otherwise new Iudges would still bring new Iudgements and therefore he caused twelue to be chosen out of euery Countie which should on their oath without inclining one way or other neither adding nor detracting open vnto him all their ancient Lawes and Customes By whose relation vnderstanding that three sorts of Lawes formerly were in the Land Merchenlage West Saxonlage Danelage he had preferred these last himselfe and people being anciently deriued from those Northerne people had not all the Barons bewayling to the King how grieuous it was for a Land to be iudged by those Lawes which they vnderstood not altered his resolute purpose yet in bringing in the strange formes of Norman Processe and pleading in the French tongue which continued till Edward the thirds time that grieuance was but slenderly preuented So likewise did he much alter the old Courts of Iustice where these Lawes should be ministred but whereas the ancient Kings of England according to Moses his example sate in person in the seate of Iustice to right the greater affayres of their Subiects as William La●bert sheweth in King Alfred Edgar Canutus c. and proues out of the Kings Oath out of Bracton Britaine Saxon Lawes c. King William not onely continued this but besides erected some other Courts of Iustice as the Exchequer and certaine Courts and Sessions to be held foure times euery yeare appointing both Iudges some to heare causes others to whom appeales should be made but none from them and also Prefects to looke to good orders Those last Polydor calleth Iustices of Peace but their institution seemes to be farre later and no lesse is his errour on the other side in saying the Conquerour first instituted Sheriffes and the tryall by twelue men which were both ancienter 4 And because the Conquerour for honour of Bishops caused them to remoue from small obscure places to Cities of more renowne we haue therefore reserued to this last place that diuision of this Kingdome which is according to Iurisdiction Episcopall Formerly in the yeare of saluation 636 Honorius the fift Archbishop of Canterbury first diuided England into Parishes which at this day are contained vnder their seuerall Dio●●sans and these againe vnder their two Metropolitanes Canterbury and Yorke in manner following CANTERBVRIE Bishoprickes Counties Parishes Canterbury Kent 257. Rochester 98. London Essex 623. Middlesex Hertford-shire part Lincolne Lincoln-shire 1255. Leicester-shire Huntington Bedford-shire Buckingham-shire Hertford-shire part Chichester Hertford-shire 250. Suffex Winchester Hant-shire 362. Surrey Wight Isle Gernesey Isle Iersey Isle Salisbury Wilt-shire 248. Bark-shire Exester 〈◊〉 shire 604. Cornewall Bath and Wells Sommerset-shire 388. Gloucester Gloucester-shire 267. Worcester Worcester-shire 241. Lichfield and Couentry Warwicke-shire 557. Warwicke-shire part Stafford-shire Derby-shire Shrop-shire part Hereford Shrop-shire part 313. Hereford-shire Ely Cambridge-shire 141. Ely Isle Norwich Norfolke 1121. Suffolke Oxford Oxford-shire 195. Peterborow Northamton 293. Rutland-shire Bristow Dorset-shire 236. Glamorgan Landaffe Monmouth-shire 177. Brecknock-shire Radnor-shire S. Dauid Pembroke-shire 308. Caermarden Bangor Caernaruon-shire 107. Anglesey Isle Merioneth-shire Denbigh-shire S. Asaph Denbigh-shire part 121. Flint shire part YORKE Yorke Yorke-shire 581. Nottingham-shire Chester Ches●●re 256. Richmond-shire Cumberland part ●anca-shire Flint part Carlile Cumberland part 93. Westmorland Durham Durham 135. Northumberland Sodor Man Iland 17. Totall Bishoprickes 27. Parishes 9285. 5 To speake nothing of these twentie-eight Flamins the Priests of Idolatry and the
cleere because of the vapours arising from the Sea and Riuer that enuiron the same is both wholesome and temperate as seated neerest to the Equino●ticall and the furthest from the North Pole not touched with cold as the other parts of the Land are 4 The soile towards the East is vneuen rising into little hils the West more leuell and woody in all places fruitfull and in plentie equals any other of the Realme yea and in some things hath the best esteeme as in Broad-clothes Fruits and feedings for Cattell Onely Mines except Iron are wanting all things else deliuered with a prodigall heart and liberall hand 5 Sundry nauigable Riuers are in Kent whereof Medwey that diuideth the shire in the midst i● chiefe in whose bosome securely rideth his Majesties Nauy Royall the walls of the Land and terrours of the Seas besides ten others of name and account that open with twenty Creeks and Hauens for Ships arriuage into this Land foure of them bearing the name of Cinque Po●t● are places of great strength and priuiledges which are Do●er Sandwich Rumney and Winchelsey among which Douer with the Castle is accounted by Mathew Paris the Monke the locke and key to the whole Realme of England and by Iohn Rosse and Lidgate is said to be built by Iulius Caesar fatall onely for the death of King Stephen and surrender of King Iohn therein hapning 6 A conceit is that Goodwin Sands were sunke for the sinnes of himselfe and his sonnes Shelues indeed that dangerously lye on the North east of this Countie and are much feared of all Nauigators These formerly had beene firme ground but by a sodaine inundation of the Sea were swallowed vp as at the same time a great part of Flanders and the Low Countries were and the like also at the same time befell in Scotland as Hector Boetius their Historiographer writeth A like accident hapned in the yeare 1586 the fourth day of August in this Countie at Mottingham a Towne eight miles from London sodainly the ground began to sinke and three great Elmes thereon growing were carryed so deepe into the bowels of the earth that no part of 〈◊〉 could any more be seene the hole left in compasse fourescore yards about and a line of fiftie fadomes plummed into it doth finde no bottome 7 The Kentish people in Caesars time were accounted the ciuillest among the Britaines and as yet esteeme themselues the freest Sub●●cts of the English not conquered but compounded with by the Normans and herein glory that their King and Commons of all the Saxons were the first Christians conuerted in Anno 596. yea and long before that time also Kent receiued the faith for it is recorded that Lucius the first Christian British King in this Iland built a Church to the name and seruice of Christ within the Castle of Douer endowing it with the Tolle of the same Hauen 8 This Countie is enriched with two Cities and Bishops Sees strengthened with 27. Castles graced with 8. of his Majesties most Princely Houses traded with 24. Market-Townes and beautified with many stately and gorgeous buildings The chiefest Citie thereof the Metropolitan and Arch bishops See is Canterbury built as our British Historians report 900. yeares before the birth of Christ by Henry of Huntington called Caier Kent wherein as M. Lambard saith was erected the first Schoole of professed Arts and Sciences and the same a patterne vnto Sigibert King of the East-Angles for his foundation at Cambridge notwithstanding by the computation of time this Sigibert was slaine by P●n●a King of Mercia thirtie yeares before that Theodore the Grecian was Bishop of Canterbury who is said to be the ●●ector of that Academie But certaine it is that Aust●● the Monke had made this Citie famous before that time by the conuersion of these Saxons vnto Christianitie and in building a most magnificent Church to Gods seruice wherein eight of their Kings haue beene interred but all their Monuments since ouer shadowed by the height of Beckets Tombe that for glory wealth and superstitious worships equalized the Pyramides of A●gypt or the Oracle of Delphos yet now with Dagon is fallen before the Arke of God This Citie hath beene honoured with the presence and Coronations of King I●hn and Queene Isabell his wife with the marriages of King Henry the third and of King Edward the first and with the interments of Edward the Bl●●ke P●ince King Henry the fourth and of Queene 〈◊〉 his wife as Feuersham is with the burials of King Stephen and of Maud his Queene and wife But as in glory so in aduersitie hath this Citie borne a part being d●●ers times affl●cted by the Danes but most especially in the dayes of King Eth●red who in that r●uenge of their massacre made hauock of all and herein slew forty three thousand and two hundred persons the tenth besides reserued to liue Afterward it recouered breath and beautie by th● liberalitie of B●shop 〈◊〉 Charters and 〈◊〉 by King Henry the third strength in Trench and Fortifications from king Richard the second and lastly Wals for her defence by Simon Sudbury Arch-bishop of that See whose Gradu●tion is placed for Latitude 51. 25. and parallelized for Longitude 22 8. her sister Rochester differing not much in either degree 9 Which Citie as Beda saith was built by one Rof Lord of the same though some ascribe the foundation of the Castle Iulius Caesar and hath beene often ruinated by the iniuries of warre both in the times when the Saxons stroue for superioritie among themselues wherein this Citie was layd waste Anno 680. as also in the assaults of their common enemy the Danes who about the yeare 884. from France sailed vp the Riuer Medwey and besieged the same so that had not King Elfred speedily come to the rescue it had beene ouerthrowne by those Pagans And againe in Anno 999. the Danes miserably spoiled this Citie in the time of King Ethelred neither hath it stood safe from danger since though not defaced so much by warre for twice hath it beene sore endammaged by chance of fire the first was in the raigne of King Henry the first Anno 1130. himselfe being present with most of his Nobilitie for the consecration of the Cathedrall Church of S. Andrew And againe almost wholly consumed about the latter end of the Raigne of King Henry the second Anno 1177. Yet after all these calamities it recouered some strength againe by the bountie of King Henry the third both in buildings and in ditching her about for defence 10 Ciuill broyles and diffentions hath this Countie beene burdened with and that not onely vnder the Saxons and Danes whose desolations were many and grieuous but also by other rebellions since the Normans Conquest both in those infamous insurrections called The Barons Warres in the raigne of King Henry the Third wherein much harme was done as also vnder King Richard the second when Wat Tiler Captaine of a dreadfull commotion assembled at Black-heath Mile
end and in London doing many outrages where in Smithfield he was lastly strucke downe by William Walworth then Maior of the Citie and worthily slaine for his notorious treasons Againe vpon Black-heath Michael Ioseph the Lord Dawbeny with their Cornish Rebels were ouerthrowne by King Henry the seauenth Anno 1497. SVSSEX CHAPTER IIII. SVTH-SEX a word compounded of the sire th●reof Southward lyeth stretched along the British Seas The North confronts vpon Sur●●y and Kent and the West butteth vpon Ha●apshire 2 For forme it lyeth long and narrow so that all her R●pes doe runne quite through the Shire containeth from We●●harting in the West to Kent-ditch that diuides it from Kent in the East sixtie foure miles but in the broadest part little aboue twentie the whole in circumference about one hundred fiftie eight miles 3 The ayre is good though somewhat clouded with wists which arise forth of her South bordering Sea who is very prodigall vnto her for Fish and Sea-sowle though as sparing for Harbours or Ships ariuage and those which she hath as vncertaine for continuance as dangerous for entrance 4 Rich is the Soile and yeeldeth greatplentie of all things necessary but very ill for trauellers especially in the winter the Land lying low and the wayes very deepe whose middle tract is garnished with meadowes pastures and Corn-fields the Sea-coast with Hilles which are called the Downs abundantly yeelding both Graint and Grasse and the North side ouershadowed with pleasant Groues and thicke Woods where sometimes stood the famous wood Andradswald containing no lesse then an hundred and twentie miles in length and thirtie in bredth taking the name of Anderida a Citie adioyning both which were wonne from the Britaine 's by Llla the first Saxon King of this Prouince and the place made fatall to Sigebert King of the West-Saxons who being deposed from his Royall Throne was met in this Wood by a Swine-heard and slaine in reuenge of his Lord whom Sigebert had murdered 5 The ancient people in the Romans time were the Regni of whom we haue spoken and who were subdued by Vespasian the Leader of the second Legion vnder A●lus Plautius Liceutenant in Britaine for Claudius the Emperour But after the departure of the Romanes this with Surrey was made the South-Saxons Kingdome yet that giuing place to the West-Saxons as they in time to the Normans it became a Prouince vnder the Conquerours power who gaue to his followers much Land in these parts 6 The place of most account in this Shire is Chichester by the Britaine 's called Caercei a Citie beautifull and large and very well walled about first built by Cissa the second King of the South-Saxons wherein his Royall palace was kept And when King William the First had enacted that Bishops Seas should be translated out of small Townes vnto places of greater resort the Residence of the Bishop vntill then held at Selsey was remoued to this Citie where Bishop Raulfe began a most goodly Cathedrall Church but before it was fully finished by a sudden mischance of fire was quite consumed Yet the same Bishop with the helping liberalitie of King Henry the First began it againe and saw it wholly finished whose beautie and greatnesse her fatall enemy still enuying againe cast downe in the dayes of King Richard the First and by her raging flames consumed the buildings both of it and the Bishops Palace adioyning which Seffrid the second Bishop of that name reedified and built a new And now to augment the honour of this place the Citie hath borne the Title of an Earledome whereof they of Arundell were sometimes so stiled Whose Gradustion for Latitude is remoued from the Equator vnto the degree fiftie fiftie fiue minutes and for Longitude obseruing the same point in the West whence Mercator hath measured are twentie degrees 7 With whom for frequencie bignesse and building the Towne Lewes seemeth to contend where King Athelstan appointed the mintage of his Moneyes and William de Warron built a strong Castle whereunto the disloyall Barons of King Henry the Third in warlike manner resorted and fought a great Battle against their owne Soueraigne and his sonne wherein the King had his Horse slaine vnder him Richard King of the Romans surprised and taken in a Wind-mill and Prince Edward deliuered vnto them vpon vnequall conditions of peace But a greater Battle was fought at Battle when the hazard of England was tryed in one dayes fight and Harold the King gaue place to his Conquerour by losing of his life among sixtie seuen thousand nine hundred seuentie-foure English men besides whose bloud so spilt gaue name to the place in French Sangue lac And the soile naturally after raine becomming of a reddish colour caused William of Newbery vntruely to write That if there fell any small sweet showers in the place where so great a slaughter of the English-men was made presently sweateth forth very fresh bloud out of the earth as if the euidence thereof did plainly declare the va●ce of bloud there shed and cryed still from the earth vnto the Lord. 8 But places of other note in this Shire are these from Basham Earle Harold taking the Sea for his delight in a small Boat was driuen vpon the Coast of Normandie where by Duke William he was retained till he had sworne to make him King after Edward Confessors death which oath being broken the Bastard arriued at Pensey and with his sword reuenged that Periurie at West-Wittering also Ella the Saxon before him had landed for the conquering of those parts and gaue name to the shore from Cimen his son But with greater glory doth Gromebridge raise vp her head where Charles Duke of Orleaunce father to Lewes the twelfth King of France taken prisoner at Agincourt was there a long time detained 9 The commodities of this Prouince are many and diuers both in Corne Cattle Woods Iron and Glasse which two last as they bring great gaine to their possessors so doe they impouerish the Countie of Woods whose want will be found in ages to come if not at this present in some sort felt 10 Great haue beene the deuotions of religious Persons in building and consecrating many houses vnto the vse and onely seruice of Christ whose Beadmen abusing the intents of their Founders hath caused those Foundations to lament their owne ruines for in the tempestuous time of King Henry the Eight eighteene of them in this Countie were blowne downe whose fruit iell into the ●appes of some that neuer meant to restore them againe to the like vse SVRREY CHAPTER V. SVRREY by Beda called Suthri lieth separated vpon the North from the Counties of ●●●kingham and Mia●lesex by the great Riuer Tha●●s●s vpon the East Kent doth inbound it vpon the South is held in with Sussex and Hampshire and her West part is bordered vpon by Hamp-shire and Bark-shire 2 The forme thereof is somewhat square and lieth by Northand by East whereof Redrith and Frensham are the opposites
betwixt whom are extended thirtie-foure miles The broadest part is from Awfold Southward to Thamisis by Stanes and them asunder twentie two the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelue miles 3 The Heauens breathing ayre in this Shire is most sweet and delectable so that for the same cause many royall Palaces of our Princes are therein seated and the Countrey better stored with game then with graine insomuch that this Countie is by some men compared vnto a home-spunne freeze cloth with a costly faire lift for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itselfe And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corne and Pasturage especially in H●●esdale and towards the Riuer of Thamisis 4 In this Shire the Regni an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie were seated whom he brancheth further thorow Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans gouernment when the Land was left to the will of Inuaders the South-Saxons vnder Ella here erected their Kingdome which with the first was raised and soonest found end From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suth-rey as seated vpon the South of the Riuer and now by contraction is called Surrey 5 And albeit the Countie is barren of Cities or Townes of great estate yet is she stored with many Princely Houses yea and fiue of his Majesties so magnificently built that of some she may well say no Shire hath none such as is None-such indeed And were not Richmond a fatall place of Englands best Princes it might in esteeme be ranked with the richest for therein died the great Conquerour of France King Edward the Third the beautifull Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth Emperour and intirely beloued wife to King Richard the Second the most wise Prince King Henry the Seuenth and the rarest of her Sexe the Mirrour of Princes Queene Elizabeth the worlds loue and Subiects joy 6 At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his vntimely end and at Lambeth the hardre Canute and last of the Danish Kings died among his Cuppes But as these places were fatall for the last breath of these Princes so other in this Countie haue beene graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarkes for in Cherts●y Abbey King Henry the Sixth who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London was first interred without all funerall pompe but for his holy life was imputed a Saint and lastly translated and intombed at Windsore At Kingston likewise stood the Chaire of Maiestic wherein Athelstan Edwin and Ethelred sate at their Coronation and first receiued their Seepter of Imperiall Power Guildfor● likewise hath beene farre greater then now it is when the Place of our English-Saxon King● was therein set And seeing it is the midst of the Shire the Graduation from hence shall be obserued where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples 7 Neither can we account Okam and Ripley two small Villages the least in this Shire which haue brought forth the well knowne men William de Okam that deepe Philosopher and admirable Scholar and George de Ripley the rung leader of our Alchymists and mysticall impostors both of them borne in this Countie and very neere together But why speake I of these sith a place neerer to sight and greater for fame euen Lambeth is the High Seat of Ecclesiasticall Gouernment Pietie and Learning and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops the Metropolitan● of England First erected by Archbishop Daldwin and euer since hath beene the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church who in a long succession euen from Anno 596 haue continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches sterne Richard by Gods prouidence Lord Archbishop of that See a most faithfull and prudent Counsellor vnto King IAMES and a most learned and prouident Guide of our most flourishing Church whose gracious fauour vndeseruedly conferred vpon me hath beene a great encouragement to these my poore endeuours 8 Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest were Wembledon where when the fulnesse of prosperitie burst forth into Ciuill Dissensions among the Saxons a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheau●in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent wherein he was discomfited and two of his principall Leaders slaine about the yeare of Christ 560. and three hundred thirtie three yeares after King Elfred with a small power ouercame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this Countie which somewhat quelled the courage of his sauage enemy 9 Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the deuotion of Princes and set apart ffom publike vses to Gods Diuine Seruice and their owne Saluation as then was taught the best in account were Sbene Chertsey Merton Newarke Rygate Wauerley Horsleg and in Southwarke Bermundsey and S. Maries These all flourished with increase till the ripe●esse of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste vnto King HENRY the Eight that in beating the boughes he brake downe body and all ruinating those houses and seazing their rich possessions into his owne hands So jealous is GOD of his honour and so great vengeance followeth the sinne of Idolatrie HANT-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. HANT-SHIRE lying vpon the West of England Is bordered vpon the North by Barkshire vpon the East with Surrey and Sussex vpon the South with the British Seas and I le of Wight and vpon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shires 2 The length thereof from Blackwater in the North vpon Surrey vnto Bascomb in the South vpon the Sea extended in a right line is fiftie foure English miles and the breadth drawne from Peters-field in the East vnto Tidworth in the West and confines of Wilt-shire is little lesse then thirtie miles the whole Circumference about one hundred fiftie and fiue miles 3 The Aire is temperate though somewhat thicke by reason of the Seas and the many Riuers that thorow the Shire doe fall whose plentie of fish and fruitfull increase doe manifoldly redeeme the harmes which they make 4 The Soile is rich for Corne and Cattle pleasant for pasturage and plenteous for woods in a word in all commodities either for Sea or Land blessed and happy 5 Hauens it hath and those commodious both to let in and to loose out Ships of great burthen in trade of Merchandise or other imployments whereof Portsmouth Tichfield Hamble and South-hampton are chiefe besides many other creeks that open their bosomes into those Seas and the Coast strengthned with many strong Castles such as Hurst Calshot South-hampton S. Andrewes Worth Porchester and the South Castle besides other Bulwarkes or Blockhouses that secure the Country and further in the Land as Malwood Winchester and Odiam so strong that in the time of King Iohn thirteene English-men onely defended the Fort for fifteene dayes against Lewis of France that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly 6 Anciently it was possest vpon the North by the
Segontians who yeelded themselues to Iulius Caesar and whose chiefe Citie was Vindonum Caer Segonte now Silcester and vpon the South by the Belga and Regni who were subdued by Plausius and Vespasian the Romans where Titus rescuing his Father straitly besieged by the Britaines as Dio and Forcatulus doe report was grasped about with an Adder but no hurt to his person and therefore taken for a signe of good lucke Their chiefe Towne was Rincewood as yet sounding the name and more within Land inhabited the Manures as Beda cals them whose Hundreds also to this day giue a relish of their names 7 Neere Ringwood and the place once Y●EN● from God and peoples seruice to Beast and luxury thirtie-sixe Parish-Churches were conuerted and pulled downe by the Conquerour and thirtie miles of circuit inforrested for his game of Hunting wherein his sonnes Richard and Rufus with Henry the second sonne to Duke Robert his first felt by hasty death the hand of Iustice Reuenge for in the same Forrest Richard by blasting of a pestilent ayre Rufus by shot taken for a beast and Henry as Absalom hanged by a bough came to their vntimely ends At so deare a rate the pleasures of dogs and harbour for beasts were bought in the bloud of these Princes 8 The generall commodities gotten in this Shire are Woolls Clothes and Iron whereof great store is therein wrought from the Mines and thence transported into all parts of this Realme and their Clothes and Karsies carried into many forraine Countries to that Countries great benefit and Englands great prayse 9 The Trade thereof with other prouisions for the whole are vented thorow eighteene Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Winchester the Britaines Caer Gwent the Romans Venta Belgarum is chiefe ancient enough by our British Historians as built by King Rudhudibras nine hundred yeares before the Natiuitie of Christ and famous in the Romans times for the weauings and embroderies therein wrought to the peculiar vses of their Emperours owne persons In the Saxons time after two Calamities of consuming fire her walles was raised and the Citie made the Royall Seate of their West-Saxons Kings and the Metropolitan of their Bishops See wherein Egbert and 〈◊〉 their most famous Monarchs were Crowned and Henry the third the Normans longest 〈◊〉 first tooke breath And here King Aethelstane erected six houses for his Mint● but the Danish desolution ouer-running all this Citie felt their fury in the dayes of King Ethelbright and in the Normans time twice was defaced by the mis-fortune of fire which they againe repaired and graced with the trust of keeping the publike Records of the Realme In the ciuill warres of Maud and Stephen this Citie was sore sacked but againe receiuing breath was by King Edward the third appointed the place for Mart of Wooll and Cloth The Cathedrall Church built by Kenwolf King of the West-Saxons that had beene Amphibalus S. Peters Swithins and now holy Trinitie is the Sanctuarie for the ashes of many English Kings for herein great Egbert Anno 836. with his sonne King Ethelwolfe 857. Here Elfred Oxfords founder 901 with his Queene Elswith 904. Here the first Edmund before the Conquest 924. with his sonnes Elfred and Elsward Here Edred 955. and Edwy 956 both Kings of England Here Emme 1052. with her Danish Lord Canute 1035. and his sonne Hardicanute 1042. And here lastly the Normans Richard and Rufus 1100. were interred their bones by Bishop Fox were gathered and shrined in little guilt coffers fixed vpon a wall in the Quire where still they remaine carefully preserued This Cities situation is fruitfull and pleasant in a vally vnder hils hauing her River on the East and Castle on the West the circuit of whose walls are well neere two English miles containing one thousand eight hundred and eightie paces thorow which openeth sixe gates for entrance and therein are seauen Churches for diuine Seruice besides the Minister and those decayed such as Callender ●uell Chappell S. Maries Abbey and the Friers without in the Suburbes and Soo●● in the East is S. Peters and in the North Hyde Church and Monasterie whose ruines remaining shew the beautie that formerly it bare The Graduation of this Citie by the Mathematickes is placed for Latitude in the degree 51. 10. minutes and for Longitude 19. 3. minutes 10 More South is South-hampton a Towne populous rich and beautifull from whom the whole Shire deriueth her name most strongly walled about with square stone containing in circuit one thousand and two hundred paces hauing seauen Gates for entrance and twentie-nine Towres for defence two very stately Keyes for Ships arriuage and fiue faire Churches for Gods diuine seruice besides an Hospitall called G●ds house wherein the vnfortunate Richard Earle of Cambridge beheaded for treason lieth interred On the West of this Towne is mounted a most beautifull Castle in forme Circular and wall within wall the foundation vpon a hill so topped that it cannot be ascended but by staires carrying a goodly prospect both by Land and Sea and in the East without the walles a goodly Church sometimes stood called S Maries which was pulled downe for that it gaue the French direction of course who with fire had greatly endangered the Towne in stead thereof is newly erected a small and vnfinished Chappell In this place saith learned Cambden stood the ancient Clausentium or fort of the Romans whose circuit on that side extended it selfe to the Sea this suffered many depredations by the Saxon Pirates and in Anno 980. was by the Danes almost quite ouerthrowne In King Edward the thirds time it was fired by the French vnder the Conduct of the King of Sicils sonne whom a Country man encountred and strucke downe with his Club He crying Rancon that is Ransome but he neither vnderstanding his language nor the Law that Armes doth allow laid on more soundly saying I know thee a Frankon and therefore shalt thou dit and in Richard the seconds time it was somewhat remoued and built in the place where now it standeth In this Clausentium Canute to euict his flatterers made triall of his Deitie commanding the Seas to keepe backe from his seat but being not obeyed he acknowledged God to be the onely supreame Gouernour and in a religious deuotion gaue vp his Crowne to the Rood at Winchester More ancient was Silcester built by Constantius great Constantines sonne whose Monument they say was seene in that Citie and where another Constantine put on the purple roabe against Hono●●● as both Ni●ius and Geruase of Canterbury doe witnesse Herein by our Historians record the warlike Arthur was Crowned Whose greatnesse for circuit contained no lesse then fourescore Acres of ground and the walles of great height yet standing two miles in compasse about This Citie by the Danish Rouers suffred such wracke that her mounted tops were neuer since seene and her Hulke the wals in mured to the middle in the earth which the rubbish of her owne desolations hath filled VVIGHT
this Countie where Princes of State haue borne the Titles both of Deuonshire and Excester of which Citie there haue beene entituled Dukes the last of whom namely Henry Holland Grand-childe to Iohn Holland halfe-brother to King Richard the second siding with Lancaster against Edward the fourth whose Sister was his wife was driuen to such misery as Philip Comineus reporteth that he was seene all torne and bare-footed to beg his liuing in the Low Countries and lastly his body was cast vpon the shore of Kent as if he had perished by shipwracke so vncertaine is Fortune in her endowments and the state of man notwithstanding his great birth 9 Religious houses in this Shire built in deuotion and for Idolatry pulled downe were at Excester Torbay Tanton Tauestoke Kirton Ford Hartland Axmister and Berstable CORNWALL CHAPTER X. CORNWALL as Matthew of Westminster affirmeth is so named partly from the forme and partly from her people for shooting it selfe into the Sea like a Horne which the Britaines call Kerne and inhabited by them whom the Saxons named Willia of these two compounded words it became Cornwallia Not to trouble the Reader with the Fable of Corineus cousin to King Brute who in free gift receiued this Countie in reward of his prowesse for wrastling with the Grant Gogmagog and breaking his necke from the Cliffe of Deuer as ●e of Monmouth hath fabuled 2 Touching the temperature of this Countie the ayre thereof is cleansed as with Bellowes by the Billowes that euer worke from o●t her enuironing Seas where thorow it becommeth pure and subtill and is made thereby very healthfull but withall so 〈◊〉 and shar●e that it is apter to preserue then to recouer health The spring is not so early as in the more Easterne parts yet the Summer with a temperate heat recompenceth his slow fostering of the fruits with their most kindly ripening The Autumne bringeth a somewhat late haruest and the Winter by reason of the Seas warme breath maketh the cold milder then else-where Notwithstanding that Countrey is much subiect to stormy blasts who●e violence hath freedome from the open waues to beat vpon the dwellers at Land leauing many times their houses vncouered 3 The Soile for the most part is lifted vp into many hilles parted a sunder with narrow and short vallies and a shallow earth doth couer their out-side which by a Sea-weede called Orewood and a certaine kinde of fruitfull Sea-sand they make so ranke and batten as is vncredible But more are the riches that out of those hilles are gotten from the Mines of Copper and Tinne which Countrey was the first and continueth the best stored in that Merchandize of any in the world Timaeus the Historian in Plinie reporteth that the Britaine 's fetched their Tinne in wicker-boats stitched about with Leather And D●octo●us 〈◊〉 of Augustus Caesars time writeth that the Britaine 's in this part digged Tinne out of 〈◊〉 ground which by Merchants was carried into Gallia and thence to Narborne as it were to a Ma● Which howsoeuer the Englis-Saxons neglected yet the Normans made great benefit thereof especially Richard brother to King Henry the third who was Earle of Cornwall and by those Tinne 〈◊〉 became exceedingly rich for the in●●●sions of the Mo●res hauing stopped vp the Tinne-Mines 〈◊〉 and them in Germany not discouered before the yeare of Christ 1240. these in Cornwall 〈…〉 the want in all parts of the world This Earle made certaine Tinne-Lawes which with liberties and priuiledges were confirmed by Earle Edmund his sonne And in the dayes of King Ed●●● the third the Common-weale of Tinne-workes from one body was diuided into foure and a 〈…〉 of the Stan●●●rs appointed then Iudge 4 The Borders of this Shire on all parts but the East is bound in with the Sea and had Tamer 〈◊〉 his course but foure miles further to the North betwixt this Countie and Deuonshire it might haue beene rather accounted an Iland then stood with the May●e Her length is from Launston to the 〈◊〉 containing by measure 60 miles and the broadest part stretching along by the Tamer is fully fortie l●s●ening thence still lesser like a horne 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Danmonij that spread themselues 〈◊〉 into Deuonshire also by the report of Diodorus Siculus a most courteous and ciuill people and by Mechael their Poet extolled for 〈◊〉 and strength of lim●●es nor therein doth he take the libertie that Poets are allowed to adde to the subiect whereof they write but truly reporteth what we see by them performed whom actiuitie surmount many other people When the Heathen Saxons had seated themselues in the best of this Land and forced the Christian Britaines into these rockie parts then did Cornwall abound in Saints vnto whose honor most of the Churches were erected by whose names they are yet knowne and called To speake nothing of Vrsula that Counties Dukes daughter with her company of canonized Virgin-Saints that are now reputed but to trouble the Calendar These Britaine 's in Cornwall so fenced the Countrey and defended themselues that to the raigne of King Athelstant they held out against the Saxons who subduing those Western Parts made Tamar the Bounder betwixt them and his English whose last Earle of the British Bloud was called Candorus 6 But William the Bastard created Robert his halfe-brother by Herlotta their mother the first Earle of the Normans race and Edward the Blacke Prince the ninth from him was by his Father King Edward the third inuested the first Duke of Cornwall which Title euer since hath continued in the Crowne 7 The commodities of this Shire ministred both by Sea and Soile are many and great for besides the abundance of Fish that doe suffice the Inhabitants the Pilchard is taken who in great skuls swarme about the Coast whence being transported to France Spaine and Italie yeeld a yearely reuenew of gaine vnto Cornwall wherein also Copper and Tinne so plentifully grow in the vtmost part of this Promontory that at a low water the veynes thereof lie bare and are seene and what gaine that commoditie begets is vulgarly knowne Neither are these Rockes destitute of Gold nor Siluer yea and Diamonds shaped and pointed Angle-wise and smoothed by Nature her selfe whereof some are as bigge as Walnuts inferiour to the Orient onely in blacknesse and hardnesse Many are the Ports Bayes and Hauens that open into this Shire both safe for arriuage and commodious transport whereof Falmouth is so copious that an hundred Ships may therein ride at Anchor apart by themselues so that from the tops of their highest Masts they shall not see each other and lie most safely vnder the winds 8 This Countie is fruitfull in Corne Cattle Sea-fish and Fowle all which with other prouisions for pleasures and life are traded thorow twentie-two Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Launston and Bodman are the best from which last being the middle of the Shire the Pole is eleuated to the degree of Latitude 50
retaineth to name Wodens-burg At this place in Anno 590. Ceaulin the West-Saxon receiued such a foyle of the Britaines and his Countrey-men that he was forced to forsake his Kingdome and to end his dayes in exile becomming a pittifull spectacle euen vnto his enemies And in this place Ina the West-Saxon joyned Battle with Ceolred the Mercian whence both of them departed with equall losse The like was at Bradford by Ke●●lwach and Cuthred at Wilton betwixt Egbert and Beornwolfe at Edindon where King Elfred was vanquisher of the Danes and at Wilton where the Danes wonne the day against him With as bloudy successe though not happening by sword was the issue of that Synod assembled at Colne a small Towne in this Countie in the yeare of Christ Iesus 977 where being hotly debating for the single life and against the marriages of the Clergie what wanted by the Word to proue their diuorce was supplyed by a Stratagem and that very bloudy for suddenly the maine timber brake and downe fell the floore with the Nobles and Prelates the Gentlemen and Commons whereby a great number were hurt and many more slaine onely Dunstan the President and mouth for the Monkes escaped vntouched the Ioist whereon his Chaire stood remaining most firme which confirmed the sentence of their separations whom God had conioyned and became the fall and snare of much incontinencie in both sexes 7 The chiefest Citie of this Shire is Salesburie remoued from a higher but a farre more conuenient place whose want of water was not so great in the mother as is supplied and replenished in the daughter euery street almost hauing a Riuer running thorow her middest and for sumptuous and delicate buildings is inferiour to none The Cathedrall a most rich magnificent Church was begun by Richard Poore Bishop and with fortie yeares continuante was raised to her perfect beautie wherein are as many windowes as there are dayes in the yeare as many cast pillars of Marble as there are houres in the yeare and as many gates for entrance as there are moneths in the yeare Neither doth this Citie retaine true honour to her selfe but imparteth hers and receiueth honour from others who are intituled Earles of Salesburie whereof eight noble Families haue beene dignified since the Normans C●●quest This Cities situation is in the degree of Latitude 51. 10 minutes and from the first West point obserued by Mercator 18 Degrees and 31. minutes of Longitude 8 Ouer this old Salesburie sheweth it selfe where K●n●●k ouercame the Britaines and where Canutus the Dane did great dammage by fire This formerly had beene the Seat of the Romans as likewise was Lecham as by their Coines digged vp is apparant so were Brokenbridge and Cosham the Courts of the Saxon Kings But Fortune long since hath turned her face from all these as lately she did from many ancient and religious foundations planted in this Prouince whereof Mal●●esburie was the most famous I will not with Monmouth auouch the foundation thereof vnto Mulmutius but by true Records from Maidulph a Scot a man of great learning that therein built a Cell and lead an Hermits life whereof Beda calleth it the Citie of Maidulph and we by contraction Malmesburie Adelme his Disciple and Successor built here a faire Monastery which Athelstan the Monarch richly endowed and left his body after death there to rest Neither hath any graced this more then William her Monke in recording to posterities the Chronicles of our Land concerning both the Church and Common-weale wherein himselfe liued and wrote those Histories 9 Ambresburie for repute did second this built by A●fritha King Edgar his wife to expiate the sinne of murder which she committed vpon yong Edward her sonne in law that hers might be King In this place Queene Eleanor widow to King Henry the third renounced all royall pompe and deuoted her selfe vnto God in the habit of a Nunne Other places erected for pietie were at Salesburie Lacock Stanley Wilton Luichurch Farnleg Bradstole Briopune and Brombore These grafts growne to full greatnesse were cut downe by the Pruiner least the cankers thereof should infect the whole body as by them was alledged and their Reuenewes bestowed vpon farre better vses both for the bringing vp of youth and the maintenance of estate BARK-SHIRE CHAPTER XIII BARK-SHIRE whether of the Eo●-woods there sited according to the censure of Asserius Meneuensis or from a naked and beare-lesse Oke-tree whereunto the people vsually resorted in troublesome times to conferte for the State I determine not onely the Countie a long time hath beene so called and bounded with other in manner as followeth The North-part is parted by Thamisis from Buckingham and Oxford-shires the South neere Kennet doth tract vpon Hampshire the East is confined with the Countie of Surrey and the West with Wiltshire and Glocestershire is held in 2 The forme of this Shire doth somewhat resemble a Sandall for a mans foot lying long-wise from East to West in which part she is broadest the middle most narrow and then spreading wider like to the heele though for her rich endowments and stately magnificence it may be well accounted the heart of the whole 3 The length thereof from Inglesham in the West to old Windsor in the East extendeth vnto fortie miles from Inkpen to Wightham the broadest part from South to North are twentie-foure the whole in Circumference about one hundred and twentie miles 4 The Ayre is temperate sweet and delightfull and prospect for pleasure inferiour to none the Soile is plenteous of corne especially in the Vale of White-horse that yeeldeth yearely an admirable encrease In a word for Corne and Cattle Waters and Woods of profit and pleasure it giues place vnto none 5 Her ancient Inhabitants by Ptolemie and Caesar were the Attrebat● and them of those that descended from Gallia among whom Comius conquered by the Dictator was of good respect and could doe much with the Britaines who as Frontinus reporteth vsed this stratagem though it proued nothing at last he flying before Caesar to recouer ayd of these Attrebatians light bedded vpon a shelfe in the Sea whereupon hoysting his sailes as before a fore-winde gaue shew to his pursuer that they were in swift flight so that hopelesse to hayle them he gaue ouer the chase yet no sooner had Caesar made ouer among them but that some of these people by name the Bibroces yeelded him subiection which prued the ruine of all former libertie But when the Romans had rent their owne Empire and retired their Legion into a narrower circuit the Sa●●ns set foot where their forces had beene and made this Countie a parcell of their Westerne Kingdome The Danes then setting their desire vpon spoiles from their ●oauing Pinnaces pierced into these parts and at Redding fortified themselues betwixt the Riuers Kennet and Tham●●sis whither after their great ouerthrow receiued at Inge●efield by the hand of King Ethelwolfe they retyred for their further safetie 6 This Towne King
Henry the first most stately beautified with a rich Monastery and strong Castle where in the Collegiate Church of the Abbey himselfe and Queene who lay both veiled and crowned with their daughter Maud the Empresse called the Lady of England were interred as the priuate History of the place auoucheth though others bestow the bodies of these two Queenes else-where The Castle King Henry the second razed to the ground because it was the refuge for the followers of King Stephen From whence the North-pole is raised in Latitude 51 degrees and 40 minutes and in Longitude from the first West-point obserued by Mercator 19 degrees and 35. minutes 7 A Castle and Towne of greater strength and antiquitie was Wallingford by Antonie and Ptolemie called Galtena the chiefest Citie of the Attribatians whose large circuit and strong fortifications shew plainly that it was a place of the Romans abode and since in a conceiued safetie hath made many very bold especially when the sparkes of Englands ciuill dissentions were forced to flame in case of the Crowne betwixt Maud the Empresse and King Stephen whither her selfe and associates resorted as their surest defence 8 But of farre greater magnificence and state is the Castle of Windsor a most Princely Palace and Mansion of his Maiestie I will not with Ieffrey affirme it to be built by King Arthur but with better authoritie say it was so thirsted after by the Conquerour that by a composition with the Abbat of Westminster whose then it was he made it to be the Kings Possession as a Place besides the pleasures very commodious to entertaine the King In this Castle that victorious Prince King Edward the third was borne and herein after he had subdued the French and Scots held he at one and the same time as his Prisoners Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland Neither was it euer graced with greater Maiestie then by the institution of the most honourable Order of the Garter a signall Ornament of Martiall Prowesse the inuention thereof some ascribe to be from a Garter falling from his Queene or rather from Ioan Countesse of Salisbury a Lady of an incomparable beautie as she danced before him whereat the by-standers sm●●ing he gaue the impresse to checke all euill conceits and in golden Letters imbelished the Garter with this French Posie HONI SOIT QVI MALY PENSE And yet that worthy Clarenceaux alledging the booke of the first institution findes the inuention to be more ancient as when King Richard the first warred against the Turkes Saracens Cypres and Acon he girt the legs of certaine choise Knights with a tache of leather which promised a future glory to the wearers The most Princely Chappell thereof is graced with the bodies of those two great Kings Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth whom the whole Kingdome was too little to containo the one of Lancaster the other of Yorke where they rest now vnited in one mould with a branch of both those Houses euen King Henry the eight who there lyeth also interred and rests in the Lord. 9 Other places of note in this Shire are Sinodum in the North and Watham in the East both of them places of the Romans residence as by their monyes these oftentimes found appeareth Neither was Sunning the least in this Tract that had beene the Seat of eight Bishops before the See was translated thence vnto Shirburne or that to Salisbury Wantage also is not wanting of honour in bringing to life that learned and most valiant King Ealfred the scourge of the Danes and great Monarch of the English And Finchhamsted for wonder inferiour to none where as our Writers doe witnesse that in the yeare a thousand one hundred a Well boyled vp with streames of bloud and fifteene dayes together continued that Spring whose waters made red all others where they came to the great amazement of the beholders 10 The riches and sweet seats that this Country affordeth made many deuout persons to shew their deuotions vnto true pietie in erecting places for Gods diuine seruice and their exemptions from all worldly businesse such were Abington Redding Bysham Bromehall Hen●ey Hamme and Wallingford whose V●tarie abusing the intents of their Founders ouerthrew both their owne Orders and places of professions all which were dissolued by Act of Parliament and giuen the King to dispose at his will MIDDLESEX CHAPTER XIIII MIDDLESEX so called in regard of the situation as seated betwixt the West-Saxons and East-Angles was sometimes together with Essex and Hartford-shire that part and portion which the East Saxons enioyed for their Kingdome it lyeth bordered vpon the North with Hartford shire vpon the West by Colne is seuered from Buckingham the South by Thamesis from Surrey and Kent and on the East from Essex by the Riuer Lea. 2 The length thereof extended from 〈◊〉 in the East to Morehall vpon Colne in the West is by measure nineteene English miles and from South 〈◊〉 in the North to his Majesties Mannour of Hampton-Court in the South are little aboue sixteene miles the whole Circumference extending to ninetie miles 3 In fo●●e it is almost square for ayre passing temperate for soile abundantly fertile and for pasturage and graine of all kindes yeelding the best so that the Wheat of this Countie hath serued a long time for the manch●t to our Princes Table 4 It lyeth seated in a vale most wholesome and rich hauing some hils also and them of good 〈◊〉 from whose tops the prospect of the whole is seene like vnto Zoar in Egypt or rather like a Paradise and Garden of God 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to Caesar were the Trinobants whom he nameth to be the most puissant in the Iland whose chiefe Citie and State yeelding him subiection made the whole with lesse losse to the Romans to beare the yoke of their owne bondage and to come in vnder termes of truce But when their forces in these parts were spent and the Empire shaken by intestine warres the Saxons setting their eyes vpon so faire a soile made their footing as sure herein which lastly with Hartford and Essex was the portion of the East-Saxons Kingdome 6 Fiue Princely Houses inheritable to the English Crowne are seated in this Shire which are Enfield Hanworth White-hall S. Iames and Hampton-Court a Citie rather in shew then the Palace of a Prince and for stately Port and gorgeous building not inferiour to any in Europe At Thistleworth once stood the Palace of Richard King of the Romans Earle of Cornewall which the Lond●ner in a tumultuous broile burned to the ground many other stately Houses of our English Nobilitie Knights and Gentlemen as also of the worshipfull Citizens of London are in this Shire so sumptuously built and pleasantly seated as the like in the like circuit are no where else to be found Neere vnto Thamesis entrance into this Countie is kept the remembrance of Caesars entrance ouer Thamesis by the name of Coway-Stakes stucke fast in the bottome to
This City was first won from the Britaine 's by Cheulin the first King of the West-Saxons about the yeare of Christ 570. and afterwards vnder the Mercians it flourished with great honour where Of●●k King of Northumberland by the sufferance of Ethelred of Mercia founded a most stately Monastery of Nunnes whereof Kineburgh Eadburgh and Eue Queenes of the Mercians were Prioresses successiuely each after other 7 Edelsted a most renowned Lady sister to King Edward the elder in this Citie built a faire Church wherein her selfe was interred which being ouerthrowne by the Danes was afterwards rebuilt and made the Cathedrall of that See dedicated vnto the honour of S. Peter In this Church the vnfortunate Prince King Edward the second vnder a Monument of Alablaster doth lye who being murdered at Barkley Castle by the crueltie of French Isabel his wife was there intombed And not farre from him another Prince as vnfortunate namely Robert Curthole the eldest sonne of William the Conquerour lyeth in a painted woodden Tombe in the middest of the Quire whose eyes were pluckt out in Cardiffe Castle wherein he was kept prisoner twenty six yeares with all contumelious indignities vntill through extreame anguish he ended his life And before any of these in this Citie say our British Historians the body of Lucius our first Christian King was interred and before his dayes the Britaines Aruiragus The graduation of this County I obserue from this Citie whence the Pole is eleuated in the degree of Latitude 52 and 14. minutes and in Longitude from the West 18. and 5. minutes 8 The other Citie is Pristow fa●re but not very ancient built vpon the Riuers Auon and Froome for trade of Merchandize a second London and for beautie and account next vnto Yorke This Citie standeth partly in this Countie and partly in Sommerset shire but being a Countie of it selfe will acknowledge subiection to neither 9 A Citie more ancient hath beene Ci●cester by Ptolomie called Corinium by Antonine Duro●●●no●ium by Giraldus Passerum Vi●em The Sparrowes Citie vpon a flying report that Gu●mund a Tyrant from Africks besieging this Citie tyed fire vnto the wings of Sparrowes who lighting in the Towne vpon light matter set flame vpon all The circuit of whose wal● extended two miles about wherein the Consular Port or wayes of the Romans met and crossed each other This Citie was wonne from the Britaine 's by Cheulin first King of the West-Saxons afterwards it was possessed by the Mercians and lastly by the Danes vnder Gurmund the former no doubt mistaken for him wherein a rable of them kept the space of a yeare Anno 879. and neuer since inhabited according to the circuit of her walles 10 Places of memorable note are these the Iland Al●ey neere vnto Glocester wherein Edmund Iron-side the English and Canutus the Dane after many battles and bloud fought in single Combat hand to hand alone vntill they compounded for the Kingdomes partition Barkley Castle where King Edward the second was thorow his fundament runne into his bowels with a red burning Spit Tewkesbury the fatall period of King Henry the sixt his gouernment and the wound of the Lancastrian Cause for in a Battle there fought in Anno 1471. Prince Edward the onely Sonne of King Henry had his braines dashed out in a most shamefull manner the Queene his mother taken prisoner and most of their fauorites slaine and beheaded And at Alderley a little Towne standing eight miles from the Seuerne vpon the hilles to this day are found Cockles Periwincles and Oysters of solid stone which whether they haue beene Shel-fish and liuing creatures or else the sports of Nature in her workes let the Naturall Philosophers dispute of and judge 11 The places of pietie set apart from other worldly Seruices and dedicated to religious vses by the deuotions of Princes erected in this Shire were Tewkesbury Deorhust Glocester Minching Barkley Kinswood Circester Winchcombe and Hales which last was built with great cost by Richard Earle of Cornwall King of the Romans wherein himselfe and his Dutchesse were interred Their son Earle Edmund brought out of Germany the bloud of Hales supposed and said to be part of that which Christ shed vpon his Crosse In this place with great confluence and deuotions of Pilgrimage it was sought to and worshipped till time proued it a meere counterfeit when the glorious light of the Gospell reuealed to eye-sight such grosse Idolat●ies and the skirts of Superstition were turned vp to the shew of her owne shame 12 Dukes and Earles that haue borne the title of Glocester the first of euery Family art by their Armes and Names expressed euer fatall to her Dukes though the greatest in bloud and birth The first was Thomas Woodstocke sonne to King Edward the third who in Ca●●is was smoothered in a Feather-bed to death The second was Humfrey brother to King Henry the fift by the fraudulent practise of the malignant Cardinall and Queene made away at S. Edmundsbury And the last was Richard brother to King Edward the fourth who by the iust hand of God was cut off in Battle by King Henry the seauenth HEREFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIIII HEREFORD-SHIRE formerly accounted within the limits of Wales lyeth circulated vpon the North with Worcester and Shrop-shire vpon the East with Maluerne Hils is parted from Glocester-shire vpon the South is kept in with Monmouth-shire and vpon the West in part with the Hatterall Hilles is diuided from Brecknok and the rest confined with Radnorshire 2 This Counties Climate is most healthfull and temperate and Soyle so fertile for Corne and Cattle that no place in England yeeldeth more or better conditioned sweet Riuers running as veynes in the body doe make the Corne bearing grounds in some of her parts rightly to be tearmed the Gilden Vale and for Waters Wooll and Wheate doth contend with Nilus Colchos and Egypt such are Lemster Irchenfeild the bankes of Wye Luge and Frome 3 The ancient people knowne to the Romanes whose power they well felt before they could subdue them were the Silures placed by Ptolemie in this tract and branched further into Radnor Brecknok Monmouth and Glamorgan-shires at this day by vs called South-Wales and by the Welsh Debeubarth Their Originall as Tacitus coniectureth by their site coloured countenances and curled haire was out of Spaine and as both he and Plinie describes them were fierce valiant and impatient of seruitude which well they shewed vnder Cara●●cus their Captaine and nine yeares scourge to the Roman assaulters for whose onely Conquest and that made by treachery the Victor in Rome triumphed with more then a vsuall Aspect and with so equall an hand bare the Scoale of Resistance that their owne Writers euermore terme it a dangerous Warre For the Legion of Marius Valens they put to flight and that with such hauock of the Associates that Osterius the Lieutenant of Britaine for very griefe gaue vp his ghost and Veranius vnder Nero assaulted them in vaine But when Vespasian was
chiefe Citie Worcester 5 Which is most pleasantly seated passing well frequented and very richly inhabited This was the Branouium mentioned by Antouine and Ptolemie called by the Britaines Caer-Wrangon by Ninius Caer-Cuorcon and by the Latines Vigornia This Citie is seated vpon the East banke of Seuerne and from the same is walled in triangle-wise about extending in circuit one thousand sixe hundred and fiftie paces thorow which seauen Gates enter with fiue other Watch Towers for defence It is thought the Romanes built this to restraine the Bertaines that held 〈◊〉 beyond Seutr●e This Citie by Hardy Canute in the yeare of Christ 1041. was sorely endangered and set on fire and the Citizens slaine almost euery one for that they had killed his Collector of the Danish Tribute yet it was presently repaired and peopled with many Burgesses and for fifteene Hides discharged it selfe to the Conquerour as in his Doomesdayes is to be seene But in the yeare 1113. a sodaine fire happened no man knew how which burnt the Castle and Cathedrall Church Likewise in the ciuill hroyles of King Stephen it was twice lighted into a flame and the later laid it hopelesse of recouery Notwithstanding from those dead Ashes a new Phenix arose and her building raised in a more stately proportion especially the Cathedrall dedicated to S. Mary first laid by Bishop Sexwolfe in Anno 680 since when it hath beene augmented almost to the Riuer In the midst of whose Quire from his many turmoiles resteth the body of King Iohn the great with-stander of the Popes proceedings vnder a Monument of white Marble in Princely Vestures with his portraiture thereon according to life And in the South-side of the same Quire lyeth intombed Prince Arthur the eldest Sonne to King Henry the seauenth his Monument is all blacke Iette without remembrance of him by Picture This City is gouerned by two Bailiffes two Aldermen two Chamberlaines and two Constables yearely elected out of twentie-foure Burgesses clothed in Scarlet assisted with fortie-eight other Citizens whom they call their Common Counsellors clad in Purple a Recorder Towne-Clerke and fiue Sergeants with Mace their Attendants Whos 's Geographichall Position is distant in Longitude from the West-Meridian 18. degrees 10. scruples hauing the North-Pole cleuated in Latitude 52. degrees and 32. scruples 6 Places of further note for memorable antiquitie is Vpton of great account in the Romane time wheresome of their Legions kept as witnesse their Monies there often found the admirable Ditch vpon Maluerne hils drawne by Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester to diuide his Lands from the Church of Worcester the Saxons our Augustines Oke where he the English Apostle met with the British Bishops for the vniforme celebration of Easter from whence both parts departed with discontented minds after many hot word and thwarting disputes 7 Neither is it without admiration to me that many places of this Shire lye farre within the Precincts of other Prouinces as Aulston Washbornes Cuttesden Paxford Hanging Easton Northwick● Blockley Burlode in Glocester-shire and Goldcote Aldermerston Newbold Treddenton Armiscote Blackwell Darlings-cote Shi●●● Tyd●●ton Olbarrow in Warwick-shire Dudley in Stafford-shire and Rochford in Hereford-shire whither I must referre the Reader to finde out these and the like in these Westerne Tracts 8 Religious places erected in this Shire and deuoted vnto God by deuout persons were Bredon Brodlege Euesholme Alnecester Cochell Fladbury Maluerin Pershore Stodlege Westwoods and Worcester plenteously prouided for and further secured by many priuiledges both which they abused as were the inditements of all such in the dayes of King Henry the eight at whose Barre himselfe being Iudge they were found guiltie and receiued sentence of their ends and destruction 9 Castles for defence built in this County ruinate or in strength were Hartlebury Holt Handley Norton Elmeley and Worcester besides his Majesties Mannour of Tichnell VVARWICKE-SHIRE CHAPTER XXVI VVARVVICKE-SHIRE so called from her Shire-Towne is bounded vpon the North with the Countie of Stafford vpon the East with Watling-street-way is parted from Leicester shire and the rest bordered vpon by Northampton shire the South part is butted by Oxford and Glocester shires and all her West with the Countie of Worcester 2 The forme thereof is not much vnlike to a Scallop shell growing from her Westerne head and spreading her body wider with many indents The length thereof from Newton in the North to L●ug Compton in the South are miles thirtie and three and the broadest part of this Shire is from H●well grange in the West vnto Hill morton in the East distant asunder twentie fiue miles the whole in Circumference about one hundred thirtie and fiue miles 3 This Shire is sited neere vnto the heart of all England and therefore participates with her in the best both for ayre and soyle wanting nothing for profit or pleasure for man The South part from Auon that runneth thorow the midst of this Countie is called the Feldon as more champion and tractable to be stirred for Corne which yearely yeeldeth such plentifull haruest that the husbandman sm●●th in beholding his paines and the medowing pastures with their greene mantles so imbrodred with flowers that from Edg-hill we may behold another Eden as Lot did the Plaine of Iordon before that Sodome fell The Woodland lyeth vpon the North of Auon so called in regard of the plentie of Woods which now are much thinner by the making of Iron and the soile more churlish to yeeld to the Plough 4 The ancient people that possessed this Prouince are by Ptolemies description called the Corna●●ij wherein after were seated the Mercian-Saxons a part of whose Kingdome it was and greatly sought after by the West-Saxons whose King Cuthred about the yeare of Christ Iesus 749 in Battle slew Ethelbald at Seckington neere vnto Ta●worth And not farre from thence King Edward the 4. as vnfortunately sought against that stout make-make-King Richard Neuil Earle of Warwicke neere vnto which vpon Blacklow-hill Pierce Gaueston that proud and new-raised Earle of Cornwall was beheaded by Guy Earle of Warwicke assisted with the Earles of Lancaster and Hereford And surely by the testimony of Iohn Rosse and others this County hath beene better replenished with people who maketh complaint of whole Towneships depopulations altogether laid waste by a puissant Armie of feeding sheepe 5 Notwithstanding many faire Townes it hath and some of them matchable to the most of England The chiefe thereof is Couentree a Citie both stately for building and walled for defence whose Citizens hauing highly offended their first Lord Leofricke had their priuiledges infringed and themselues oppressed with many hauie Tributes whose wife Lady Godina pitying their estates vnceslantly sued for their peace and that with such importunacie as hardly could be said whether was greater his hatred or her loue at last ouercome with her continuall intercessions he granted her suir vpon an vnciuill and as he thought an vnacceptable condition which was that she should ride naked thorow the face of the
Shire is drawne indifferently spacious but not very thicke of Inclosures being from East to West in the broadest part not fully 30. miles and from North to South but 24. the whole circumference about 196. miles whose principall Citie is set as the Center almost in the midst from whom the Pole is eleuated 53. degrees and 4 minutes in Latitude and for Longitude 19. degrees 22. minutes 6 From this Towne the Shire hath the name though the name of her selfe is diuersly written as Legecestria Legora Legeo-cester by Ninius Caer-Lerion by Mathew of Westminister if we doe not mistake him Wirall and now lastly Leicester ancient enough if King Leir was her builder eight hundred fortie and foure yeares before the birth of our Sauiour wherein he placed a Flamine to serue in the Temple of Ianus by himselfe there erected and where he was buried if Ieffery ap Arthur say true but now certaine it is that Ethelred the Mercian Monarch made it an Episcopall See in the yeare of Christ Iesus 680. wherein Sexwulph of his election became the first Bishop which shortly after was thence translated and therewith the beautie of the Towne began to decay vpon whose desolations that erectifying Lady Edelsted cast her eyes of compassion and both reedified the buildings and compassed it about with a strong wall where in short time the Cities trade so increased that Matthew Paris in his lesser Story reporteth as followeth Lege-cester saith he is a right wealthy Citie and notably defended and had the wall a sure foundation were inferiour to no Citie whatsoeuer But this pride of prosperitie long lasted not vnder the Normans for it was sore oppressed with a world of calamities when Robert Bossu the Crouch-backe Earle of that Prouince rebelled against his Soueraigne Lord King Henry the second whereof heare the same Author Paris speake Through the obstinate stubbornesse of Earle Robert saith he the noble Citie Leicester was besieged and throwne downe by King Henry and the wall that seemed indissoluble was vtterly raced euen to the ground The peeces of whose fragments so fallen downe remained in his dayes like to hard rockes through the strength of the Morter cementing whole lumpes together and at the Kings command the Citie was set on fire and burnt the Castle raced and a heauit imposition laid vpon the Citizens who with great summes of money bought their owne Banishments but were so vsed in their departure that for extreame feare many of them tooke Sanctuary both at S. Edmunds and S. Albanes In repentance of these mischiefes the Author thereof Earle Robert built the Monastery of S. Mary de Praetis wherein himselfe became a Canon regular and for fifteene yeares continuance in sad laments serued God in continuall prayers With the like deuotion Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built an Hospitall for an hundred and ten poore people with a Collegiate Church a Deane twelue Canons Prebendaries as many Vicars sufficiently prouided for with reuenewes wherein himselfe lyeth buryed and it was the greatest ornament of that Citie vntil the hand of King Henry the 8. lay ouer-heaiue vpon all the like foundations and laid their aspired tops at his owne feete The fortunes of another Crouch-backe King Richard the V●●●per were no lesse remarkable in this Citie then the former Robert was both of them in like degree of dishonourable course of life though of disterent issue at their deaths the one dying penitent and of deuout esteeme the other leauing the stench of Tyranny to all following ages who from this Citie setting forth in one day with great pompe and in Battle aray to keepe the Crowne sure vpon his owne Helmet in a sore 〈◊〉 field yeelded both it and his life vnto the head and hands of Henry of Richmond his Conquerour and the next day was brought backe like a Hogge naked and 〈◊〉 and with contempt without teares 〈◊〉 buried in the G●●y-Fryers of this Citie whose suppression hath suppressed the plot place of his graue and onely the stone-chest wherein he was laid a drinking trough now for horses in a common In●e retaineth the memory of that great Monarchs Funerall and so did a stone in the Church and Chappell of S. Maries inclose the corpse of the proud and pontificall Cardinall Wolsey who had prepared for himselfe as was said a farre more richer Monument 7 Otherplaces worthy of remembrance in this Shire were these In the West where a high Crosse was erected in former times stood the faire Citie Cleycester the Romans BENONNES where their Legions lay and where their two principall wayes crossed each other as the Inhabitants report Loughborrow in the North-verge was as Marianus affirmeth taken from the Britaine 's by Cuthwolfe their King about the yeare of Christ 572. At Redmore neere Bosworth Westward in this Countie the Kingdome of England lay in hazard of one Battle when King Richards Field was fought where the Land at once was freed from a Tyrant and a wicked Vsurper Neither may we passe Lutterworth as the least in account where the famous Iohn Wickliffe Englands Morning-starre dispersed the clouds of all Papisticall darknesse by preaching the Gospell in that his charge and stile of his pen so piercing in power that the man of Sinne euer since hath beene better knowne to the world 8 Religious houses by Princes erected and by them deuoted to God and his seruice the chiefest in this Shire were at Leicester Grace-Dieu Kerby Bellers and at Burton a Spittle for Lazers a disease then newly approched in this Land for the erection whereof a common contribution was gathered thorow the Realme the Patients in this place were not so much deformed in skin as the other were in the defects for the soule whose skirts being turned vp to the sight of the world their s●●mes were discouered and those houses dissolued that had long maintained such Idolatrous sinnes LINCOLN-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXI THe County of Lincolne by the Normans called Nicolshire is consined on the North with Humber on the East with the German Ocean vpon the South is parted from Cambridge and Northampton-shire by the Riuer Nyne and on the West from Nottingham and York-shires by Dun and Trent 2 The length of this Prouince extended from Barton vpon Humber in the North vnto Stanford vpon the Riuer Nyne in the South are miles by our English measure fiftie fiue and the bredth thereof from Newton in the West stretched vnto Wintbory vpon her East Sea containeth thirtie fiue The whole in circumference about one hundred and eightie miles 3 The Ayre vpon the East and South part is both thicke and foggy by reason of the Fennes and vnsolute grounds but therewithall very moderate and pleasing Her graduation being remoued from the Aequator to the degree of 53. and the windes that are sent of her still working Seas doe disperse those vapours from all power of hurt 4 The forme of this County doth somewhat resemble the body of a Lute whose East coasts lye bowe-like into the German
them sounded a retreat and prohibited his Host any longer perfuie He being thus possessed of the I le of Man dyed in the Iland that is called Ile when he had raigned sixteene yeares He left behinde him three sonnes Lagman Harald and Olaue 4 Lagman the eldest taking vpon him the Kingdome raigned seauen yeares His brother Harald rebelled against him a great while but at length was taken prisoner by Lagman who caused his members of generation to be cut off and his eyes to be put out of his head which crueltie this Lagman afterwards repenting gaue ouer the Kingdome of his owne accord and wearing the badge of the Lords Crosse tooke a iourney to Ierusalem in which he dyed 5 An 1075. all the Lords and Nobles of the Iland● hearing of the death of Lagman dispatched Ambassadours to Murecard O-brien King of Ireland and requested that he would send some worthy and industrious man of the Bloud Royall to be their King till Olaue the sonne of Godred came to full age The King yeelding to their request sent one Dopnald the sonne of Tade and charged him to gouerne the Kingdome which by right belonged to another with lenitie and gentlenesse But after be was come to the Crowne forgetting or not weighing the charge that his Lord and Master had giuen him swayed his place with great tyranny committing many outrages and cruelties and so raigned three yeares till all the Princes of the Ilands agreeing together rose vp against him and made him flie into Ireland 6 An. Dom. 1111. Olaue the sonne of Godred Crouan aforesaid began his raigne and raigned fortie yeares a peaceable Prince He tooke to wife Affrica the daughter of Fergus of Gal-way of whom he begat Godred By his Concubines he had Raignald Lagman and Harald besides many daughters whereof one was married to Summerled Prince of Herergaidel who caused the ruine of the Kings of the Ilands On her he begat foure sonnes Dulgal Raignald Engus and Olaue 7 An. Dom. 1144 Godred the sonne of Olaue was created King of Man and raigned thiritie yeares In the third yeare of his raigne the people of Dublin sent for him and made him their King Which Mure-card King of Ireland maligning raised warre and sent Osibeley his halfe brother by the mothers side with 3000. men at Armes to Dublin who by Godred and the Dublinians was slaine and the rest all put to flight These atchieuements made Godred returned to Man and began to vse tyranny turning the Noblemen out of their inheritances Whereupon one called Thorfin vtters sonne being mightier then the rest came to Summerled and made Dulgal Summerleds sonne King of the Ilands whereof Godred hauing intelligence prepared a Nauie of 80. Shippes to meet Summerled And in the yeare 1156. there was a Battle fought at Sea on Twelfth day at night and many slaine on both sides But the next day they grew to a pacification and diuided the Kingdome of the Ilands among themselues This was the cause of the ouerthrow of the Kingdome of the Iles. 8 Ann 1158. Summerled came to Man with a fleet of fiftie three saile put Godred to flight and wasted the Iland Godred vpon this crossed ouer to Norway for ayde against Summerled But Summerled in the meane time arriuing at Rhinfrin and hauing gathered together fleet of 160 ships couerting to subdue all Scotland by the rust iudgement of God was vanquished by a few and both himselfe and his sonne slaine with an infinite number of people 9 The fourth day after Raignald began to raigne but Godred comming vpon him out of Norway with a great multitude of Armed men tooke his brother Raignald and be rest him both of his eyes and genitall members On the fourth Ides of Nouember An. Dom. 1187. Godred King of the Ilands dyed and his body was translated to the I le of Ely He left behinde him three sonnes Raignald Olaue and Yuar He ordained in his life time that Olaue should succeed him because he onely was borne legitimate But the people of Man seeing him to be scarce ten yeares old sent for Raignald and made him their King I his caused great diuision and many turbulent attempts betweene the two Brethren for the space of thirtie eight yeares which had no end till at a place called Tnigualla there was a battle strucke betweene them wherein Olaue had the victory and Raignald was slaine The Monkes of Russin translated his body vnto the Abbey of S. Mary de Fournes and there interred it in a place which himselfe had chosen for that purpose 10 An. 1230. Olaue and Godred Don who was Raignalds sonne with the Norwegians came to Man and diuided the Kingdome among themselues Olaue held Man and Godred being gone vnto the Ilands was slaine in the I le Lodhus So Olaue obtained the Kingdome of the Isses He dyed the twelfth Calends of Lune Anno 1237. in Saint Patrickes Iland and was buryed in the Abbey of Russin 11 Harrold his sonne succeeded him being foureteene yeares of age and raigned 12 yeares In the yeare 1239. he went vnto the King of Norway who after two yeares confirmed vnto him his heyres and successours vnder his Seale all the Ilands which his predecessours had possessed 12 An. 1242. Harrold returned out of Norway and being by the Inhabitants honourably receiued had peace with the Kings of England and of Scotland The same yeare he was sent for by the King of Norway and married his daughter In the yeare 1249. as he returned homeward with his wife he was drowned in a tempest neere vnto the coasts of Radland 13 An Dom. 1249. Raignald the sonne of Olaue and brother to Harrold began his raigne and on the thirtieth day there of was slaine by one Yuar a Knight in a meadow neere vnto the holy Trinitie Church and lyeth buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 14 In the yeare 1252. Magnus the sonne of Olaue came to Man and was made King The next yeare following he went to the King of Norway and stayed there a yeare 15 In the yeare 1265. Magnus Olaues sonne King of Man and of the Ilands departed this life at the Castle of Russin and was buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 16 In the yeare 1266. the Kingdome of the Ilands was translated by reason of Alexander King of Scots who had gotten into his hands the Westerne Ilands and brought the I le of Man vnder his dominion as one of that number HOLY ILAND CHAPTER XLV THis Iland is called Lindisfarne by the Riuer Lied that is opposite vnto it on the Coast of Northumberland Beda termeth it a Deiny Iland The Britaine name it 〈…〉 for that it twice euery day suffreth an extraordinary inundation and ouer-flowing of the Ocean in manner of an Iland which twice likewise makes it continent to the Land and returning vnto her watrie habitation layes the Shoare bare againe as before It is called in English Holy-Iland for that in ancient times many Monkes haue beene accustomed to
but sendeth out great prouision thereof to others to supply their defects and although the ground may seeme dry and stony or vnpleasant and nothing sightly wherein for the outward qualitie it resembleth some other parts of Wales that are not so fruitfull yet for the inward bounties of nature it is farre vnlike for aboue all the Coasts of Wales it is most plentifull of Wheat insomuch as by Giraldus Cambrensis report they are wont to say in Welsh by way of a Prouerbe Mon Mam Combry which is to say Mon is the mother of Wales for that when other Countries haruest failes round about or their prouision is exhaust and drawne dry this alone like a prouident and full-brested mother is able to sustaine the rest Whereunto Nature most prouidently hath added another benefit seruiceable and necessary to the former in that the Country produceth also those kinde of stones which are called Mol●res is of all other fittest to make Mill-stones or Grind-stones In some places also it yeeldeth an earth of Alumino●● qualitie out of which some not long since began to make Alom and Coperose who like vnflesht Souldiers gaue ouer their enterprise without further hope because at first they saw it not answere their ouer-hastie expectations 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ord●●ices mentioned before in the precedent Prouinces of Denbigh-shire Flint-shire and Carnaruon-shire And this very Iland was that ancient and so much enobled seate of the British Druyds who so amated the Army of Romane inuaders as Tacitus reports and as else-where we haue related in the sixt Booke and seauenth Chapter of our ensuing History 6 This Nation was attempted first by Pa●linus Suetonius in the raigne of Nero but brought vnder the Romane Empire by Iulius Agricola When the Empire of the Romanes in Britaine began to decline and goe downeward some out of Ireland entred into this Isle by stealth and nestled themselues there as may be gathered by certaine mounts of earth entrenched about and yet to be seene which they call the I●●sh mens Cottages as also by a place named of the Irish-men yn Hieriey Gwidid who did there as is recorded put the Britaines to flight vnder the leading of Sinigus The Norwegians also were often infestuous to this Iland but King Ethelreds Fleet hauing in the yeare 1000. scowred the Seas round about this Isle far exceeded all both Irish and Norwegian depopulations for they wasted the Country in all hostile manner 7 After this two Hughs both Normans did greatly afflict this Iland The one being Earle of Chester the other of Shrewsbury at which very time Magnus the Norwegian arriuing there shot Hugh Earle of Shrewsbury through with an Arrow and departed after he had ransacked the Iland It was afterwards grieuously infested by the Englishmen who neuer gaue ouer from time to time to inuade it vntill in the raigne of King Edward the first it was wholly brought vnder his subiection 8 The principall Towne in this Isle is Beaumarish which the said King Edward the first built in the East side thereof and for the faire situation though in a Morish place gaue it the name which it now beareth whereas in times past it was called Bonouer which he also fortified with a goodly Castle 9 The Maior is the chiefest Magistrate of the Towno who is yearely chosen and hath the assistance and helpe of two Bailiffes two Sergeants at Mace and one Towne-Clerke by whose carefull diligence the affaires of this Towne are orderly managed and commanded whose Latitude is 54. and Longitude 15. 45. minutes 10 Not far from hence is Lhaanuais in times past a faire religious house of the Friars Minors which although it be now in a manner raced out of memory yet antiquitie maketh mention that it hath beene of great regard among the Kings of England who haue shewed themselues very bountifull Patrons vnto that Couent both in respect of the sanctimonious life of such as conuersed there as also because there the bodies of very eminent persons as the daughter of King Iohn the sonne of a King of the Danes as likewise of many great Lords Knights and Squires were enterred that were slaine in the warres against the Welsh in the time of many illustrious Kings of England 11 This Isle is reckoned to haue had anciently many Villages in it euen to the number of three hundred threescore and three and the same euen at this day is very well peopled The diuision of this I le for disposition of affaires that belong either to the state of the Cro●●● or to the condition of the Country is into six Hundreds in which are seated two Market-Townes and seuentie foure Parish-Churches for Gods diuine honour and worship CAERNARVON-SHIRE CHAPTER XIIII CAERNARVON-SHIRE in Welsh Sire Caer-ar-von so called because it is iust ouer against Anglesey which the Britaines call Mon and in composition was termed also Snowden-Forrest before Wales was laid into Shires the North-side whereof and the West butteth vpon the Irish Sea the South-side is inclosed with Merioneth and the East with Denbigh-shires from which it is seuered by the Riuer Conwey 2 The forme thereof is much like a wedge long and narrow toward the South and growing still wider towards the North so that from Penenkel-point South-ward to Orms-head-point Northward are fortie miles from the Riuer Conwey Eastward to the Riuer Llenoy Westward miles twentie and the whole circumference one hundred and ten miles 3 The Aire is sharpe and piercing by reason that the Country hath not naturall prouision to ensconce her selfe against the extremitie of winds and weather but especially as may be thought through the continuance of the Snow on the hils which also exclude the Suns aspect and warmth 4 The soile cannot be much commended for the fertilitie except those parts of the Sea-coasts which lye on the West towards Ireland but for the heart of this Shire it is altogether mountainous as if Nature had a purpose here by rearing vp these craggy hils so thicke together strongly to compact the ioynts of this our Iland and to frame the Inland part thereof for a fit place of refuge to the Britaines against those times of aduersitie which afterward did fall vpon them for no Army though neuer so strongly or scarce any Trauellers though neuer so lightly appointed can finde passage among those so many rough and hard Rockes so many Vales and Pooles here and there crossing all the wayes as ready obstacles to repell any Inroades of forraine a●●ailants These Mountaines may not vnfitly be termed the British Alpes as being the most vaste of all Britaine and for their steepnesse and cragginesse not vnlike to those of Italy all of them towring vp into the Aire and round encompassing one farre higher then all the rest peculiarly called Snowdon-Hill though the other likewise in the same sense are by the Welsh termed Cralg Er●ry as much as Snowy Mountaines taking their name as doth by Plinies testimony Niphates in Armenia and
magnanimitie 9 But the Citie which fame may iustly celebrate alone beyond all the Cities or Townes in Ireland is that which we call Diuelin Ptole●ie Eblana the Latinists Dublinium and Dublinia the West-Britaines Dinas Dulm the English-Saxons in times past Duplin and the Irish Balacleigh that is the Towne vpon hurdles for it is reported that the place being fennish and moorish when it first began to be builded the foundation was laid vpon hurdles 10 That it is ancient is perswaded by the authoritie of Ptol●mie That it was grieuously rent and dismembred in the tamultuous warres of the Danes and brought afterwards vnder the sub●ection of Eadgar King of England which his Charter also confirmeth wherein he calleth it the noble Citie of Ireland is written by Saxo Grammaticus That it was built by Harold of Norway which may seeme to be Harold Har●ager when he had brought the greatest part of Ireland into an awfull obedience vnto him we reade in the life of Griffith ap S●●an Prince of Wales At length it yeelded vnto the valour and protection of the English at their first arriuall into Ireland by whom it was manfully defended from the fierce assaults as well of Auscoulph Prince of the D●blinians as afterwards of Gottard King of the Isles since which time it hath still augmented her flourishing estate and giuen approued testimony of her faith and loyaltie to the Crowne of England in the times of any tumultuous streights and commotions 11 This is the royall seat of Ireland strong in her munition beautifull in her buildings and for the quantitie matchable to many other Cities frequent for trafficke and intercourse of Merchants In the East Suburbs Henry the second King of England as H●ueden reporteth caused a royall Pallace to be erected and Henry Loundres Archbishop of Diuelin built a Store-house about the yeare of Christ 1220. Not farre from it is the beautifull Colledge consecrated vnto the name of the holy Trinitie which Queene Elizabeth of famous memory dignified with the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie The Church of S. Patricke being much enlarged by King Iohn was by Iohn Comin Archbishop of Dublin borne at Euesham in England first ordained to be a Church of Prebends in the yeare 1191. It doth at this day maintaine a Deane a Chanter a Chancellor a Treasurer two Archdeacons and twentie two Prebendaries This Citie in times past for the due administration of Ciuill Gouernment had a Prouost for the chiefe Magistrate But in the yeare of mans redemption 1409 King Henry the fourth granted them libertie to chuse euery yeare a Maior and two Bailistes and that the Maior should haue a gilt sword carried before him for euer And King Edward the sixt to heape more honour vpon this place changed the two Bailiffes afterwards into Sheriffes so that there is not any thing here wanting that may serue to make the estate of a Citie most flourishing 12 As the people of this County doe about the neighbouring parts of Diuelin come neerest vnto the ciuill conditions and orderly subiection of the English so in places farther off they are more tumultuous being at deadly feuds amongst themselues committing oft times Man-slaughter one vpon another and working their owne mischiefes by mutuall wrongs for so the Irish of Leinster wasted Leinster with many Townes in the same Prouince in the yeare 1294. And in the yeare 1301. the men of Leinster in like manner raised a warre in the winter season setting on fire the Towne of Wyk●●lo Rathdon and others working their owne plague and punishment by burning vp their sustenance and losing their Castle by depredation 13 Matter of obseruation and no lesse admiration among them is the Giants dance commonly so called and so much talked of which Merlin is said by Art Magicke to haue translated out of this Territorie vnto Salisburie Plaine which how true it is I leaue to the vaine beleeuers of miracles and to the credulous obseruers of antiquitie 14 In this County haue beene erected many famous Monasteries Abbies and religious houses consecrated to deuout and holy purposes As the Monastery of Saint Maries of Oustmanby ●ounded for preaching Friers vnto which of late dayes the Iudiciall Courts of the Kingdome haue beene translated also the magnificent Abbey called S. Thomas Court at Dublin builded and endowed in times past with many large priuiledges and reuenewes of King Henry the second in expiation of the murther of Thomas Arch-bishop of Canterbury Likewise Tiutern Monastery or the notable Abbey which William Marshall Earle of Pembrooke founded and called De roto for that he had vowed to God being tossed at Sea with many a sore and dangerous tempest to erect an Abbey wheresoeuer he came to land and being after shipwracke cast vpon land in this place he made performance of his vow accordingly THE PROVINCE OF CONNAVGHT CHAPTER IIII. THis Prouince named by Giraldus Cambrensis Conachtia and Conacia by the Irish Conaughty and by English-men Connaught is bounded East-ward with part of the County of Leinster North-ward with part of Vlster West-ward with the West-maine Ocean and on the South it is confined with a part of the Prouince of Mounster closed in with the Riuer Sbennon and butting against the Kingdome of Spaine 2 The forme thereof is long and towards the North and South ends thinne and narrow but as it growes towards the middle from either part it waxeth still bigger and bigger extending in length from the Riuer Shennon in her South to Enis Kelling in her North 126. miles and the broadest part is from Tromer in her East to Barragh-Bay in her West containing about fourescore miles The whole in circuit and compasse is aboue foure hundred miles 3 The aire is not altogether so pure and cleare as in the other Prouinces of Ireland by reason of certaine moist places couered ouer with grasse which of their softnesse are vsually termed Boghes both dangerous and full of vaporous and foggie mists 4 This County as it is diuided into seuerall portions so is euery portion seuerally commended for the soile according to the seasonable times of the yeare Twomond or the County Clare is said to be a Country so conueniently situated that either from the Sea or Soile there can be nothin wisht for more then what it doth naturally afford of it selfe were but the industry of the Inhabitants answerable to the rest Galway is a land very thankfull to the painefull husbandman and no lesse commodious and profitable to the Shepheard Maio in the Roman Prouinciall called Mageo is replenished both with pleasure and fertility abundantly rich in Cattle Deere Hawkes and plenty of Hony Slego coasting vpon the Sea is a plenteous Country for feeding and raising of Cattle Le-Trim a place rising vp throughout with hilles is so full of ranke grasse and forrage that as Solinus reporteth if Cattle were not kept sometimes from grasing their fulnesse would endanger them And Rosco●en is a Territory for the most part plaine and fruitfull feeding many Heards
which taking passage thorow the plaine Vallies doe lastly in a louing manner vnite themselues together and of their many branches make many bigge bodied streames neither doth the Sea deny them entrance but helpeth rather to fill vp their Bankes whereby Vessels of burden discharge their rich Treasures and her selfe with open hand distributeth her gifts all along the South of this Shore 4 Anciently it was possest by the Durotriges whom Ptolemie placeth along in this Tract who being subdued by the Romans yeelded them roome and vnwilling subiection After them the Saxons set foot in these parts whereof Portland seemeth from that Port to take name who in this place arriued in Anno 703. and did sorely infest and annoy all the South Tract And at Bindon before him Kinegillus King of the West-Saxons in the yeare of Christ 614. in a doubtfull and dangerous Battle vanquished the Britaines Neither were the Saxons so surely herein seated but that the Danes sought to defeat them thereof for twice these bold Rouers landed at Chartmouth the first was in Anno 831. and raigne of King Egbert and the other eight yeares after when Ethelwulfe was King in both which they went away Victors Yet when the Iron-side wore the English Diademe and these fierce people sought to plucke it from his Helmet he met them at Pen ham in Gillingham Forrest and with a small power obtained a great victory causing their King Canute with discourage to retire 5 Commodities arising in this Countie are chiefly Wools and Woods in her North where the Forrests are stored with the one and the pleasant greene Hilles with the other The inner part is ouer-spread both with Corne and Grasse and the Sea yeeldeth the Isidis Plocamos a Shrub growing not vnlike the Corrall without any leafe besides her other gifts turning all to great gaine which the more is made manifest by the many Market Townes in this Shire whereof Dorchester is the chiefe in Antonius his 〈◊〉 termed Durnouaria situated vpon the South side of Frome and the 〈…〉 called ●osse-way wherein some of their L●gions kept a by the Rampiers and Coines there daily digged vp is probably coniectured at which time it seemeth the Citie was walled whereof some part yet standeth especially vpon the West and South sides and the Tract and Trench most apparent in a Quadrant-wise almost meeteth the Riuer containing in circuit one thousand and seuen hundred pases but were cast downe by the Danes whose tran●pling feete destroyed all things wheresoeuer they came and hands here razed the Trenches Mandbury and Poundbury theseales of their Siege and signes of times miserie About three hundred pases Southward from hence standeth an old Fortification of Earth trenched about and mounted aboue the ordinary plaine thirtie pases containing some fiue Acres of ground wherein at my there-being plentie of Corne grew This the Inhabitants call The Maiden-Castle hauing entrance thereunto onely vpon the East and West This is thought to haue beene a Summer-Campe or Station of the Romans when their Garrisons kept the Frontiers of this Prouince The gouernment of this City is yearely committed to two Bailiffes elected out of eight Magistrates or Aldermen a Recorder Towr●-Clerke and two Sergeants attending them whence the North-pole is eleuated 50. degrees 48. minutes in Latitude and for Longitude is remooued from the first West-point vnto the Meridian of 18. degrees 6 Other places also are memorable through the actions therein happening or antiquities there yet remaining such is Badbury now nothing but a Trench and decayed Castle hardly seene though sometimes it was the Court of the West-Saxons Kings Such also is Cerne where Augustine the English Apostle brake downe the Altars and Idols of the Saxons God HELL whom they deuoutly honoured as the onely conseruer of their health Shaftesbury also wherein one Aquila whether a Man or Eagle I know not by our Historians report is said to haue prophecied the future times of this our Empire and that after the raignes of the Saxons and Norman it should againe returne vnto the gouernment of the British Kings But with such vaine predictions our Nation is more then once taxed by Philip 〈◊〉 the famous French Writer In this Citie Edward the sonne of great Edgar and one and thirtieth Monarch of the English-men was interred being murdered at Corfe a Castle seated in the I le of Purbeck by his Step-mother Aelfrith to make way for her sonne to enioy his Crowne in repentance whereof and to pacifie Heauen for his bloud she built the Monasteries of Ambresbury and Whorwell in the Countie of Wilt-shire and South-Hamton In the former of which with great penitency she spent the rest of her life 7 As vpon the like occasion the Monastery of Middleton was laied in this Shire by King Ethelstan to appease the Ghost of Edwine his innocent brother and to expiate the sinne of his owne soule for the bloud of that iust Prince whom most vniustly he caused to die and with the like deuotion though not to satisfie for the like blo●die sinnes did Queene Cuthbarga sue a Diuorce from her second husband the Northumberlands King and it Winburne built her a Nunnery whereof her selfe bec●me Abbesse where afterward was raised a most stately Minster which added not onely more glory to the place but withall enlarged the name and made it to be called Wimburn-minster where King Ethel●●● a most vertuous Prince after much disqu●●●nesse had with the Danes in peace here resteth with his Tombe and Inscription as in his History Christ assisting shall be further seene Neither among these may I omit Sherburne which in the yeare of grace 704. was made a Bishops See in whose Cathedrall Church were interred the bodies of Ethelbald and Ethelbert brethren both of them Monarkes of the English-men 8 Seuen more besides these were set apart from worldly imployments consecrated onely to God and his seruice in this Shire which were Camestern Cranborn Ab●ottesbury Bindon Sturmister Tarrant and Warham These with the others came to their full period vnder the hand of King Henry the Eight which lay with such waight vpon their fai●e buildings that he crushed the iuyce thereof into his owne Coffers DEVON-SHIRE CHAPTER IX DEVON-SHIRE by the Cornish Britaines called Deuinan and by contraction of the vulgar Denshire is not deriued from the Danes as some would haue it but from the people Danmonij the same we will speake of in Cornwall and whom Ptolemie hath seated in these Westerne Borders 2 The West of this County is bounded altogether by the Riuer Tamar the East is held in with the verge of Somerset-shire and the North and South sides are washed wholy with the British and Severne Seas Betwixt whose shoares from Cunshere in the North vnto Salcombe Hauen entering in at the South are fiftie fiue miles and from the Hartland Point West to Thorncombe East are fiftie foure the whole Circumference about two hundred and two miles 3 The Ayre is sharpe healthfull and good the Soile is hilly
passe ouer and to smoother farre greater exployts of the Britaines which notwithstanding long in these parts they could not doe for the wrongs of the Icenians growing intolerable who by the Romane Souldiers were put out of their rightfull possessions their Princes accounted no better then Slaues and their Queene whipped in most ignominious manner vnder Boduo they wrought their reuenge as in the History Christ assisting shall be further related Next to these Icenians were the Saxons that got their footing into these parts and of them this with Norfolke Cambridge shire and the I le of Ely was made their East-Angles Kingdome though as it seemeth euer in subiection either to the Mercians or to the Kings of Kent whose off-spring ending in S Edmund the Martyr after the Danes had laid it most desolate Edward the Elder subdued it vnto his West-Saxons Monarchy and that likewise ending in King Edward the Confessor many Noble Normans got their possessions in these parts whose off-spring are plenteously replenished in this Shire to this day 5 The commodities of this Shire are many and great whereof the chiefest consisteth in Corne in Cattle Cloth Pasturage Woods Sea-fish and Fowle and as Abbo Floricensis hath depainted this Countie is of a greene and passing fresh hue pleasantly replenished with Orchards Gardens and Groues● thus he described it aboue six hundred yeares since and now we finde as he hath said to which we may adde their gaine from the Pa●le whose Cheeses are traded not onely thorowout England but into Germany France and Spaine and are highly commended by Pantaleon the Physitian both for colour and taste 6 And had Ipswich the onely eye of this Shire beene as fortunate in her Surname as she is blessed with Commerce and buildings she might 〈◊〉 haue borne the title of a Citie neither ranked in the 〈…〉 and seat doth equall most places of the Land be●●● 〈…〉 about both by a Rampire of earth mounted along her North and West parts and places of entrance where gates haue stood which no doubt by the Danes were cast downe in the yeare of Iesus Christ 991. when they sacked with spoyle all these Sea-coasts and againe in the yeare one thousand laid the streets desolate and the houses on heapes yet afterwards recouering both breath and beautie her buildings from St●ke-Church in the South to Saint Margarets in the North now containe 19●0 paces and from S Helens in the East to S. Matthewes Church in the West are no lesse then 2120. full of streets plenteously inhabited wherein are twelue Parish-Churches seated besides them suppressed such were Christ-Church S Georges S. Iames the White the Blacke and Gray Fryers The Site of this Towne is remoued from the Equator vnto the degree 52. 25 minutes and by Mercators obseruation from the first West points 22. degrees 9 minutes and is yearely gouerned by two Bailiffes and ten Port-men all wearing Scarlet with twenty-foure of their Common-Councell in purple a Recorder a Towne-Clerke fiue Sergeants whereof one is for the Admiraltie a Beadle and Common Cryer all in blew with the Townes Armes on their Sleeue The other Eye of this shire is S. Edmund●bury By Abbo the Royall Towne wherein at the day-breake of the Saxons conuersion Sigebert King of the East-Angles founded a Christian Church and vpon the occasion of King Edmounds buriall who at Hoxon was shot to death hath beene euer since called S Edmunds-bury where was built to his honour one of the fairest Monasteries in the world begun by King Canute much affrighted with the seeming appearance of that Martyrs Ghost who to expiate the Sacrilegious impietie of his Father Suenus enriched the place with many endowments and offred vp his owne Crowne vpon the 〈◊〉 Martyrs Tombe For the beautie and buildings of this Abbey and Towne let Leyland for me declare 〈…〉 finely seated so delicately vpon the easie ascent of an hill 〈…〉 stately Abbey either for reuenewes or incomparable 〈…〉 then a Monastery so many Gates for entrance and some of them brasse so many Towers and a most glorious Church vpon which attend three others standing all in the same Church-yard all of them passing fine and of a curious workmanship Whose ruines lie in the dust lamenting their fall mouing the beholders to pietie their case Neere vnto this Towne a great Battle was fought by Robert Bossu Earle of Leicester against his Soueraigne King Henry the second but was worthily ouercome by Richard Lucy the Kings high Iustice himselfe and wife taken with many Flemings and Englishmen slaine 7 Other places worthy of remembrance this Countie affords such is Ex●ing in the West formerly famous for the birth of S. Andrey daughter to King Anna one of the three names of the Shires diuision Rendl●sham in the East where Redwald the first Christian in this Kingdome held his Court and Hadley in her South where Guthrum the Dane whom Elfred baptized was buried And things of stranger note are the limits of the East-Angles Territories running along New-market heath vulgarly called the Diuels-ditch the like fable is formally told by Nubrigensis that at Wulpet in the heart of this Shire two greene boyes of Satyres kinde arose out of the ground from the Antipodes beleeue it if you will and Ralfe Coggeshall in the Monuments of C●l●hester declareth that a Fish in all parts like a man was taken neere Orford and for sixe moneths was kept in the Castle whence after he escaped againe to the Sea As strange but most true was a crop of Pease that without tillage or sowing grew in the Rockes betwixt this Orford and Aldebrough in the yeare 1555 when by vnseasonable weather a great dearth was in the Land there in August were gathered aboue one hundred Quarters and in blossoming remained as many more where neuer grasse grew or earth euer seene but hard solide Rockes three yards deepe vnder their rootes 8 Places separated from common vse and deuoted to God and his seruice by religious Princes were at S. Edmunds Ipswich Ikleworth Blithborow Clare Iaeston Burgh Castle wherein Sigebert King of the East-Angles entered the profession of a Monke but was thence forced by his people to fight against the Mercians in which Battle he was slaine And Dunwich where Foelix founded his Episcopall See These with many others in this Countie were suppressed in the fall of the Monasteries and their Reuenewes assumed by King Henry the Eight NORTHFOLKE CHAPTER XVII NORTHFOLKE is an Iland inclining to an ouall forme closed on the South part with the Riuers of Waueney and the l●sser Ouse which diuides it from Suffolke On the East and North with the Germane Ocean on the West toward Cambridge-shire with some branches of the greater Ouse toward Lincolne-shire with that part of the neue which passeth from Wisbitch into the Washes It containeth in length from Yarmouth to Wisbitch about fiftie miles In breadth from Thetford to Wels about thirtie The whole Circuit is about two hundred fortie two miles The Name ariseth from the
situation of the people who being the Norther-most of the Kingdome of East-Angles are therefore called the Northfolke as the Souther-most of the Southfolke The Ayre is sharpe and piercing especially in the Champion and neere the Sea● therefore it delaieth the Spring and Haruest the situation of the Country inclining thereto as being vnder the 53. degree of Latitude The So●e diuers about the Townes commonly good as Clay Chalke or sa● earth well watered and with some wood vpward to the Heaths naked dry and barren Marsland and Flegg exceeding rich but Marsland properly for Pastere Flegg for Corne. 2 The parts from Thetford to Buruham and thence Westward as also along the Coast be counted Champion the rest as better furnished with woods Woodland The Champion aboundeth with Corne Sheepe and Conies and here in the barren Heaths as the prouidence of our Ancestors hath of old disposed them are very profitable For on them principally lie our Fould courses called of the Saxons whose institution they therefore seeme to be Paldyoeun that is Libertie of fold or fouldage These Heaths by the Compasture of the sheepe which we call Tath are made so rich with Corne that when they fall to be sowne they commonly match the fruitfullest grounds in other Countries and laid againe doe long after yeeld a sweeter and more plentifull feed for sheepe so that each of them maintaine other and are the chiefest wealth of our Country The Woodland fitter for grasse is maintained chiefly by feeding of Cattell yet well stored with Corne and Sheepe The Coast is fortunate in Fish and hath many good Harbours whereof Lenn and Yarmouth be the mother-ports and of great traffique Wels and Blakeney next in estimation The whole Countie aboundeth with Riuers and pleasant Springs of which the Ouse is chiefest by whose plentifull branches the Isle of Fly the Townes and Shires of Cambridge Humington and the Countie of Suffolke vent and receiue Commodities The next is Hierus or Yere passing from Norwich to Yarmouth where it receiueth the Bure comming from Aylsham both of them of great seruice for water-carriages but very notable for their plenty of 〈◊〉 for some one man out of an hold vpon the Bure hath drawne vp ordinarily once a yeare betweene two Nets about fiue or six score busness of Fish at one draught The Waueney and the lesser Ouse are also Nauigable and of great vse The residue I omit 3 I he people were anciently called ICENI as they also of Suffolke Cambridge-shire and Huntington-shire and supposed to be of them whom Caesar nameth Cenimagni Ptolemie Simeni some T●gens Their manners were likely to be as the rest of the Britaines barbarous at those times as appeareth by Caesar and Tacitus Neither can I otherwise commend their Successors the Saxons for so also their owne Countryman Ethelwerd termeth them Since the entry of the Normans they haue beene accounted ciuill and ingenious apt to good Letters adorning Religion with more Churches and Monasteries then any Shire of England and the Lawes and Seats of Iustice for many ages with some excellent men from whom most of our chiefe Families and some of the greatest Nobility of the Kingdome haue taken aduancement And herein is Northfolke fortunate that as Crete boasted of an hundred Cities so may she of an hundred Families of Gentlemen neuer yet attainted of high Treason How the gouernment of this Country was about Caesars time is vncertaine but agreeable no doubt to the rest of the Britaines vnder some peculiar Toparch or Regulus as Tacitus termeth him The latter Romans held it by two Garrisons one at Gariannum neere Yarmouth the other at Branedunum now called Brancastre both of horse and commanded by the Comes Maritims Tractus as Marcellinus calleth him termed after Comes Littoris Saexonici Vpon the entry of the Saxons this Countie with Suffolke fell in the portion of the Angles and about the yeare fiue hundred sixtie one were together erected into a Kingdome by Vffa of whom the succeeding Kings were tituled Vffines But hauing suffred many Tempests of Fortune it was in the yeare 870. vtterly wasted and extinct by Hungar and Hubba the Danes who ouerthrew the vertuous King Edmund about Thetford and after martyred him at S. Edmundsbury Yet they did not long enioy it for King Edward shortly recouered it from them and annexed it to his other Kingdomes The Danes notwithstanding inhabited abundantly in these parts so that many of our Townes were founded by them and a great part of our people and Gentry are risen out of their bloud 4 This Kingdome of East-Angles was after allotted to an Earledome of that name by William the Conquerour who made Radulph a Britaine marying his kinswoman Earle thereof but gaue the greatest parts of this Countie about Wimondham Keninghall Lenn Buruham Fulmerstone c. to W. de Albany Pincernae and W de Warranna Forrestario who to strengthen themselues according to the vse of that time with the homage and seruice of many tenants diuided large portions of the same amongst their friends and followers so that most of the Manours and Lands in the parts aforesaid were in those dayes either mediately or immediately holden of one of them And as Northfolke and Suffolke were first vnited in a Kingdome then in an Earledome so they continued vnited in the Sheriffe-wicke till about the fifteenth yeare of Queene Elizabeth 5 The Townes here are commonly well built and populous three of them being of that worth and qualitie as no one Shire of England hath the like Norwich Lenn and Yarmouth to which for ancient reputation as hauing beene a seat of the Kings of East-Angles I may adde Thetford knowne to Antonius Ptolemie and elder ages by the name of Sitemagus when the other three were yet in their infancie and of no esteeme for I accept not the Relations of the Antiquitie and State of Norwich in the time of the Britaine and Saxons though Alexander Neuil hath well graced them Her very name abridgeth her Antiquitie as hauing no other in Histories but Norwich which is meere Saxon or Danish and signifieth the North-Towne or Castle It seemeth to haue risen out of the decay of her neighbour Vinta now called Castor and as M. Cambden noteth not to haue beene of mar●● before the entry of the Danes who in the yeare 1004. vnder Sweno their Captaine first sackt and then burnt it euen in her infancie Yet in the dayes of Edward the Confessor it recouered 1320. Burgesset But maintaining the cause of Earle Radulph aforesaid against the Conquerour they were by famine and sword wasted to 560 at which time the Earle escaping by ship his wife vpon composition yeelded the Castle and followed 〈◊〉 William Rusu● time it was growne famous for Merchandise and concourse of people so that Herbert then translating the Bishopricke from Thetford thither made each of them an ornament to other In varietie of times it felt much varietie of Fortune By fire in Anno 1508. By extreame plagues whereof
one in An. 1348. was so outragious as 17104. are reported to haue died thereof betweene the Calends of Ianuary and of Iuly By misery of warre as sacked and spoyled by the Earle of Flaunders and Hugh Big●d Anno 1174. In yeelding to Lewis the French against their naturall Lord King Iohn Anno 1216. By the disinherited Barons An. 1266. By tumult and insurrection betweene the Citizens and Church-men once about the yeare 1265. which if Henry the third had not come in person to appease the Citie was in hazard to be ruined The second time in Anno 1446. for which the Major was deposed and their Liberties for a while selfed In Edward the sixths time by Ketts rebellion whose fury chiefly raged against this Citie Since this it hath flourished with the blessings of Peace Plentie Wealth and Honour so that Alxander Neu● doubteth not to preferre it aboue all the Cities of England except London It is situate vpon the Riuer Hierus in a 〈◊〉 valley but on using ground hauing on the East the Hilles and Heath called Mussold for Most-would as I take it In the 17 yeare of King Stephen it was new founded and made a Corporation In Edward the firsts time closed with a same Wall ●auing on a part that the Riuer defendeth First gouerned by foure Bayliffes then by Henry the fourth in An 1403. erected into a Majoraltie and County the limits whereof now extend to Eatonb●●ge At this present it hath about thirtie Parishes but in ancient time had many more 6 Lenn hauing beene an ancient Borrough vnder the Gouernment of a Bayliffe or Reue called Praepositus was by King Iohn in the sixt yeare of his Raigne made Liber Burgus and besides the gift of his memorable Cup which to this day honoureth this Corporation endowed with diuers faire Liberties King Henry the third in the 17 yeare of his Raigne in recompence of their seruice against the out-lawed Barons in the Isle of Ely enlarged their Charter and granted them further to choose a Major Loco Prapositi vnto whom King Henry the Eight in the sixteenth yeare of his Raigne added twelue Aldermen a Recorder and other Officers and the bearing of a sword before the Major But the Towne comming after to the same King he in the twentie-ninth of his Raigne changed their name from Mator Burge●ses Lenn Episcopi to Mator Burge●ses Lenn Regis 7 Yarmouth is the Key of the Coast named and seated by the mouth of the Riuer Yere Begun in the time of the V●nes and by small accessions growing populous made a Corporation vnder two Bayliffes by King Henry the third and by his Charter about the fifteenth yeare of his Raigne walled It It is an ancient member of the Ci●que Ports very well built and fortified hauing onely one Church but faire and large founded by Bishope Herbert in William Rufus dayes It maintaineth a Peere against the Sea at the yearely charge of fiue hundred pound or thereabout yet hath it no possessions as other Corporations but like the children of Aeol●● and Thetis Maria 4. ventos as an Inquisitor findeth An. 10. Hen 3. There is yearely in September the worthiest Herring-fishing in Europe which draweth great concourse of people and maketh the Towne much the richer all the yeare but very vnsauoury for the time The Inhabitants are so curteous as they haue long held a custome to feast all persons of worth repairing to their Tovvne 8 The Bishopricke of Norwich had first hereseat at Dunwich in Suffolke and was there begun by Foelix who conuerted this Countie and the East-Angles to the Faith Being brought out of Burgundie by Sigeber● the first Christian King of the East-Angles he landed at Babingley by Lenn and there builded the first Church of these Countries which in his memory is at this day called by his Name The second he built at Shar●●bourn then of wood and therefore called Stock-Chappell After Foelix and three of his Successors this Bishopricke was diuided into two Sees the one with eleuen Bishops in succession continuing at Dunwich the other with twelue at Elmham in Norfolke Then vnited againe in the time of King Edwyn the entire See for twelue other Bishops remained at Elmham and in the Conquerours time was by his Chaplaine Arfastus being the thirteenth translated to Thetford from thence by Herbert his next Successor saue one bought of W. Rusus for 1900. pounds and brought to Norwich This Herbert surnamed Losinga a Norman builded the Cathedrall Church there and endowed it with large possessions Not far from thence he also builded another Church to S. Leonard a third at Elmham a fourth at Lenn S. Margarets a very faire one and the fifth at Yarmouth before mentioned By the Cathedrall Church he builded a Palace for the Bishops and founded the Priory there now conuerted to Deane and Chapter and another Priory at Thetford Since his time the Bishops See hath immoueably remained at Norwich but the ancient Possession are seuered from it and in lieu thereof the Abbey and Lands of S Benedict of Holme annexed to it The Commodities of this Countie I haue contained in these four Verses Ingenio populi cultu Norfolcia clari est Hinc fluvijs illine Insula clausa mari Qua ratis vellus frumenta cuniculus agnus Lac scatet pisces pabula mella crocus CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE CHAPTER XVIII CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE lyeth bounded vpon the North with Lincolneshire and Northfolke vpon the East with Norfolke and Suffolke vpon the South with Hartford-shire and Essex and vpon the West with Bedford and Huntington shires 2 This Prouince is not large nor for ayre greatly to be liked hauing the Fennes so spread vpon her North that they infect the ayre far into the rest From whose furthest point vnto Royston in the South are thirtie-fiue miles but in the broadest is not fully twentie the whole in Circumference traced by the compasse of her many indents one hundred twentie and eight miles 3 The Soile doth differ both in ayre and commodities the Fenny surcharged with waters the South is Champion and yeeldeth Corne in abundance with Meadowing Pastures vpon both the sides of the Riuer Came which diuides that part of the Shire in the midst vpon whose East-bancks the Muses haue built their most sacred Seat where with plenteous increase they haue continued for these many hundred yeares 4 For from ancient Grantcester Camboritum by Antonine now famous Cambridge the other brest and Nurse-mother of all pious literature haue flowed full steames of the learned Sciences into all other parts of this Land and else-where ancient indeed if their Story be rightly writ that will haue it built by Cantaber a Spaniard three hundred seauenty fiue yeares before the birth of our Sauiour who thither first brought and planted the Muses This Citie Grantcester by the tyranny of time lost both her owne beautie and her professed Athenian Students so that in Bedaes dayes seauen hundred yeares after the Word became flesh it is described to
and the Trinobantes as their Writers declare and in the Heptar●hy was possessed by the East-Saxons excepting some small portion thereof that the Mercian Kings enioyned The Danes also in their ouer-runnings sought to stay themselues in this Shire and at Ware then Weare pitched downe their rest and hope for passing the Lea in their light Pinnaces and Shallops raised therein a Fort which maugre the English they kept vntill that by the wise police of King Elfred that Riuer was parted into to more running streames whereby their Ships perished and they intercepted both of prouision and farther supply 5 The Romans before them had made Verolaxium in this Shire their greatest for account which in Neroes time was a Municipiall as Nimus in his Catalogue of Cities doth call it or as Tacitus a Free Towne sacked by Boduo that euer eternized Queene of the Ictanians when seuenty thousand of the Romans and Consecrates by her reuenging sword perished the site and circuit whereof in this Card we haue set according to our view and measure there taken whose magnificence for Port and stately Architecture were found by her large and arched Vaults in the dayes of King Edgar which were digged into and cast downe by 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 Abbots of S. Albanes for that they were the receptacles and lurking holes of 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 the ruines of which haue raised the beautie of her suruiuing and faire S. Albanes where 〈◊〉 the great Mercian in great deuotion built a most stately 〈◊〉 whose Church yet standing retaineth the ashes of many Nobles there slaine in the quarrell of Yorke and Lancaster and a Font of solid brasse brought out of Scotland by Sir Richara Lea from the siege of L●eth 6 Many other Townes both for Commerce stately Buildings and of ancient Record this Shire affordeth whereof Hertford though the Shire-Towne is not the richest the passage thorow Ware hath left her wayes so vntrodden to preuent which in former times that Riuer at Ware was chained vp and the Bayliffe of Hertford had the custody of the Key which howsoeuer they haue lost yet hath the Towne gotten her Gouernour to be preferred from the name of a Bilisse vnto a Maior assisted with nine Burg●sses a Recorder and two Sergeants their Attendants Herein a Castle for situation pleasant for Trench Walles and Riuer sufficiently fenced was lately seene but marked to destinie as the Towne to decay hath found the hand of Fortune to ouermatch her strength and to ruinate the Priory S. Nicholas and S. Maries Churches besides a Cell of S. Albanes Monkes that therein were seated The like fate fals vnto Hemsled and her faire Castle wherein Richard King of the Romans left his life Yet Lingely is graced both in the birth of Prince Edmund the fifth sonne to King Edward the third and the buriall of Richard the second that vnfortunate King who in the Cell of Fryers Preachers was there first buried but afterwards remooued and enshrined at Westminster And in another Langley neere the East from thence was borne that Pontificall Break-speare Bishop of Rome knowne by the name of Hadrian the fourth and famous for his stirrup-holding by Fredericke the Emperour whose breath was lastly stopped by a Flie that flew into his mouth 7 The ciuill Battles that in this Shire haue beene sought in the Map it selfe are inserted and therefore here omitted but the more ancient remembred vnto vs by Osister-hill neere S. Albans whom the judicious Combden supposeth to haue beene the Campe of Ostorius the second Lieutenant and Subdue● of great Caractatus as also seuen small round Hils betwixt Sieuennedge and Ku●●worth in which are supposed some Romane Souldiers to lie buried 8 Religious Houses built and suppressed the chiefest for account in this Shire were S. Albans Ro●ston Ware Sopwell Langeley besides them at Hertford whom Beda cals Horudford which Cities graduation is distant and remoued from the Equator 52. degrees 5. minutes of Latitude and set from the first point of the West according to Mercator in the 20 degree 29. minutes of Longitude The ●●●domes whereof were enioyed onely by tho●● two honourable 〈◊〉 whose atchieuements we haue also therein expressed BEDFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XX. BEDFORD-SHIRE seated in the South-East of this Iland is a plaine and champion Country and lyeth bounded vpon the North with Huntington-shire vpon the East with Cambridge and Hartford-shires vpon the South with Hartford and Buckingham-shires and vpon the West with Buckingham and Northampton-shires 2 The forme thereof is somwhat ouall and not very large for from Tilbroke in the North vnto Stu●●am in the South are but twentie-foure English miles and from Turny in the West vnto Hatley Coking in the East are not fully foureteene the whole in Circumference about seauenty three miles 3 The Ayre is temperate and the Soile bounteous especially the North whose Borders the fruitfull Ouse with her many windings watereth The South is more leane and with greater industry bringeth forth Barley no better else-where Generally this County is Champion though some places be sprinkled with Pasturage and Woods 4 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes that held in this Shire were part of the Cattieuchlani a stout and warre-strring people and yet vpon the report of Caesars proceeding sent him their subiection for peace But when that conquering Nation had brought Britaine into a Prouince vnder Rome their Legions lay at Selenae and Magintum which are now Sandy and Dunstable places of memorable note in this Shire After them the Saxons coueting for so faire a Seate first dispossessed the Britaines vnder the leading of Cuthwulfe the West-Saxon about the yeare of Grace 572. who making it their owne was lastly enioyed by the Mercians as a part of their Kingdome 5 In the yeare of Christs Incarnation 1399 immediately before those Ciuill Warres that rent in pieces the peace of this Land betweene the Princes of Lancaster and Yorke the Riuer Ouse neere vnto Harwood stood sodainly still and refrained to passe any farther so that forward men passed three miles together on foot in the very depth of her Channell and backward the waters swelled vnto a great height which was obserued by the judicious to foretell some vnkinde diuision that shortly should arise 6 This Countie among the common calamities of the Land when it lay trampied vnder the fect of the Danes sustained a part and after that in the time of King Stephen when the Ciuill Warres thundred betwixt Maud the Empresse and himselfe the Shire-Towne was sore wasted with great slaughter of men So when the Barons forsooke their allegeance to King Iohn the Towne and Castle were rendred vp vnto their hands and lastly by King Henry the third laid leuell euen with the ground some ruinous walles appearing towards the Ouse but not a stone left vpon the Mount where stood his foundation 7 This Towne by the Britaine 's was called Lettidur and of vs Bedford being the chiefest in the Countie from whom it taketh the name and is most fruitfull and
pleasantly seated hauing the Ouse running thorow the Towne in the middest and a faire Stone-bridge built ouer the same whereon are two Gates to locke and impeach the passage as occasion shall serue At the first entrance standeth S. Leonards Hospitall for Lazars and further inwards S. Iohns and S. Maries Churches within the Towne S. Pauls a most beautifull Church S. Cuthberis and S. Peters without the Towne standeth the Fryers S. Loyes Alhallowes and Caudwell Abbey not farre whence sometimes stood a Chappell vpon the Banke of Ouse wherein as Florilegus affirmeth the body of Offa the great Mercian King was interred but by the ouer-swelling of that Riuer was borne downe and swallowed vp whose Tombe of Lead as it were some phantasticall thing appeared often to them that seeke it not but to them that seeke it saith Rosse it is inuisible This Towne is gouerned yearely by a Mator two Bailiffes two Chamberlaines a Recorder a towne-Clerke and three Sergeants with Mases 8 A tale of vaine credit is reported of Dunstable that it was built to bridle the outragiousnesse of a theefe named Dun by King Henry the first but certaine it is the place was formerly held by the Romanes whose Legions there lay as appeareth by the Coines there vsually found which from Magmium are corruptly called Madning-money 9 Castles in this Shire are Woodhill Eaton Temsford and Amphill an honour now appertaining to the Crowne And places of Religion built by deuout persons but for Idolatrous Abuses againe abolished were at Bedford Harwood Helenflow Newenham Chicksand Wardon Woborne and Dunstable All these with their like felt the hand of Henry the Eight to lie so heauie vpon them that they were not able to sustaine the waight but were crushed to peices and fell to the ground 10 The Graduation of this Countie taken for the Shire-Towne is placed from the Equator in the degree of 52. and 30. minutes for Latitude and is remoued from the first West point of Longitude 20. degrees and 16. minutes BVCKINGHAM-SHIRE CHAPTER XXI BVCKINGHAM for the plentie of Beech-trees there growing and those in the elder times of the Saxons called Eucken may well be supposed from them to haue the name as afterwards the whole Shire had hers from this Towne Buckingham 2 In forme it somewhat resembleth a Lyon Rampant whose head or North-point toucheth the Counties of Northampton and Bedford whose backe or East-part is backed by Bedford and Hertford-shires his loines or South-borders rest vpon Bark shire and his breast the West side is butted vpon wholly by Oxford-shire The length thereof from Waisbury in the South to Bradfeild in her North are thirtie nine miles the breadth at the broadest from Ashridge in the East to 〈◊〉 wood Forrest in the West are eighteene the whole in Circumference one hundred thirtie 〈◊〉 miles 3 The ayre is passing good temperate and pleasant yeelding the body health and the minde content The soile is rich fat and fruitfull giuing abundance of Corne Grasse and Meate It is chiefly diuided into two parts by the Chiltren billes which run thorow this Shire in the middest and before tim● where so postered with Be●●h that they were altogether vnpassable and became a receptacle and refuge for theeues who daily endammaged the way-faring man for which cause 〈◊〉 Abbot of S. A●ba●s caused them to be cut downe since when those parts are pa●●able without any great incumbrances of trees from whose tops a large and most pleasing prospect is 〈◊〉 The Vale beneath is plaine and champion a clayie soile stiffe and tough but withall marueilous 〈◊〉 full naked of woods but abounding in medowes pastures and tillage and maintaining an infinite number of sheepe whose soft and fine fleeces are in great esteeme with the Turkes as farre as Asia 4 The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in this Shire were the Catlieuchlani mentioned by Ptolemie and them dispersed thorow the Tract of Bedford Hertford and this These yeelded themselues with the first to Caesar vnder the Romanes subiection whose ouer-worne Empire ending in Britaine the Saxons by strong hand attained this Prouince and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdome yet was it first subdued vnto them by Cherdike the West-Saxon whose memory is in part continued in the Towne Chersey vpon the West of this Countie where in a sharpe and bloudy battle he was Victor ouer the Britaines So also Cuthwulfe a West-Saxon at Alesbury in the yeare of Grace 592. ouer came the Britaines and bare downe all things before him yet no sooner was their Hep●archie wained and their Monarchie able to stand alone but that the Danes before their strength and growth was confirmed waxed vpon them and they not able in so weake a hand to hold fast that weight of greatnesse they had so grasped gaue place to their conquerours who did many harmes in this Prouince for in the yeare 914. the Danes furiously raged as farre as Brenwood where they destroyed the City Burgh the ancient seat of the Romanes afterwards a royall house of King Edward the Confessor which they vtterly destroyed 5 The Shire-Towne Buckingham fruitfully seated vpon the Riuer Ouse was fortified with a Rampire and Sconses on both bankes by King Edward the elder saith Marianus the Scotish Writer where in the heart of the Towne hath stood a strong Castle mounted vpon a high hill which long since was brought to the period of her estate now nothing remaining besides the signes that there she had stood The Riuer circulates this Towne on euery side that onely on the North excepted ouer which three faire stone-bridges lead and into which the springs of a Well run called S. Rumalds a child-saint borne at Kings-Sutton canonized and in the Church of this Towne enshrined with many conceited miracles and cures such was the happe of those times to produce Saints of all ages and sexes This Towne is gouerned by a Bayliffe and twelue principall Burgesses and is in the degree remoued from the first point of the West for Longitude 19. 33. scruples and the North-pole elenated in Latitude for the degree of 52. 18. scruples 6 A Towne of ancient note is Stony-Stratford the Romans Lactorodum being built vpon that ancient Causey-way which is called Watling-street where remaine the markes thereof euen vnto this day At this place Edward the elder stopped the passage of the Danes whiles he strengthened Torcester against them and herein King Edward the eldest since the Conquest reared a beautifull Crosse in memory of Eleanor his dead Queene as he did in euery place where her Corps rested from Herdby in Lincolne-shire till it was receiued and buried at Westminster 7 Places intended for Gods true worship built by deuout persons and sequestred from worldly imployments were at Launden Luffeld Bidlesden Bradwell Nothey Ankerne Missenden Tekeford Partrendune Ashridge and Alesburie Ashridge in great repute for the bloud supposed out of Christs sides brought out of Germany by Henry the eldest sonne of Richard King of the Romanes and Earle
of Cornwall whereunto resorted great concourse of people for deuotion and adoration thereof But when the Sunne-shine of the Gospell had pierced thorow such clouds of darkenesse it was perceiued apparantly to be onely hony clarified and coloured with Saffron as was openly shewed at Pauls Crosse by the Bishop of Rochester the twentie-fourth of Februarie and yeare of Christ 1538. And Alesbury for the holinesse of S. Edith was much frequented who hauing this Towne allotted for her Dowrie bad the world and her husband fa●ewell in taking vpon her the veile of deuotion and in that fruitfull age of Saints became greatly renowned euen as farre as to the working of miracles These all in the stormes and rage of the time suffred such shipwracke that from those turmoiled Seas their merchandise light in the right of such Lords as made them their owne for wreacks indeed OXFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXI OXFORD-SHIRE receiueth her name from that famous Vniuersitie and most beautifull Citie Oxford and this of the Foord of Oxen say our English-Saxons though Leiland vpon a ground of coniecture will haue it Ousford from the Riuer Ouse by the Latines called Isis which giueth name likewise to the adioyning Iland Ousney The North point of this Shire is bordered vpon by the Counties of Warwicke and Northampton the East with Buckingham the West by Glocester-shire and the South altogether is parted from Bark-shire by Thamisis the Prince of British Riuers 2 The blessings both of the sweet-breathing heauens and the fruitfull site of this Counties soile are so happie and fortunate that hardly can besaid whether exceeds The aire milde temperate and delicate the Land fertile pleasant and bounteous in a word both Heauen and Earth accorded to make the Inhabitants healthfull and happie The hils loaden with woods and Cattle the vallies burthened with Corne and Pasturage by reason of many fresh springing Riuers which sportingly there-thorow make their passage whereof England Char●●ll 〈◊〉 and Isis are chiefe which two last making their Bed of Marriage 〈…〉 together in one channell and name 3 The length of this Shire is from Cleydon in the North-west vnto 〈◊〉 in her South-East neere vnto Thamisis and amounteth almost to fortie miles the broadest part is in her westerne Borders which extending from the said Cleydon in the North vnto Faring●●● 〈…〉 the Riuer Isis in the South are scarcely twentie sixe and thence growing narrower 〈…〉 in Circumference about one hundred and thirtie miles 4 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Dobuni part whereof possessed further Westernly into Glocester-shire and nearer Eastward betwixt the bowing of Thamises were seated the Ancalites who sent their submission vnto Iulius Caesar when report was made that the Trinobantes had put themselues vnder his protection whereof followed the Britaines seruitude vnder the proud yoke of the all-coueting Romans yet afterwards this Counties people being very puissant as Tacitus termes them and vnshaken by warres withstood Ostorius Scapula the Roman Lieutenant choosing rather to yeeld their liues in battle then their persons to subiection Of latter times it was possessed by the Mercian Saxons as part of their Kingdome though sometimes both the West-Saxons and the Northumbrians had the dispose of some part thereof for Beda affirmeth that K. Oswold gaue the then-flourishing Citie D●rchester vnto Berinus the West-Saxons Apostle to be his Episcopall See whence the good Bishop comming to Oxford and preaching before Wulpherus the Mercian King in whose Court Athelwold the South-Saxons heathenish King was then present he with all his Nobles were conuerted to the faith of Christ and there baptized whereby Berinus became the Apostle also of the South Saxons 5 Otherplaces of memorable note either for actions therein happening or for their owne famous esteeme are the R●ll-rich-stones standing neere vnto Enisham in the South of this Shire a monument of huge stones set round in compasse in manner of the Stonch●nge of which fabulous tradition hath reported forsooth that they were metamorphised from men but in truth were there erected vpon some great victory obtained either by or against Rollo the Dane who in the yeare 876. entred England and in this Shire fought two Battles one neere vnto Hoch-Norton and a second at the Scier-Stane 6 Rod●os likewise remaineth as a monument of Oxfords high-stiled Barle but vnfortunate Prince Robert de Vere who besides the Earledome was created by King Richard the second Marquesse of Dublin and Duke of Ireland but at that Bridge discomfited in fight by the Nobles and forced to swimme the Riuer where began the downefall of his high mounted fortunes forbeing driuen forth of his Country lastly died in exile and distressed estate But more happie is this Countie in producing farre more glorious Princes as King Edward the Confessor who in Islip was borne Edward the victorious blacke Prince in Woodstocke and in Oxford that warlike Coeur de Lion King Richard the first the sonne of King Henry the second first tooke breath 7 Which Citie is and long hath beene the glorious seat of the Muses the British Athens and learnings well-spring from whose buing fountaine the wholesome waters of all good literature streaming plenteously haue made fruitfull all other parts of this Realme and gained glory amongst all Nations abroad Antiquitie auoucheth that this place was consecrated vnto the sacred Sciences in the time of the old Britaines and that from Greeke-lad a Towne in Wilt-shire the Academie was translated vnto Oxford as vnto a Plant-plot both more pleasing and fruitfull whereto accordeth the ancient Burlaus and Necham this latter also alledging Merlin But when the beautie of the Land lay vnder the Saxons prophane feete it sustained a part of those common calamities hauing little reserued to vphold its former glory saue onely the famous monument of S. Frideswids Virgin Conquest no other Schoole then left standing besides her Monasterie yet those great blasts together with other Danish stormes being well blowne ouer King Elfred that learned and religious Monarch recalled the exiled Muses to their sacred place and built there three goodly Colledges for the studies of Diuinitie Philosophie and other Arts of humanitie sending thither his owne sonne Ethelward and drew thither the yong Nobles from all parts of his Kingdome The first reader thereof was his supposed brother Neote a man of great learning by whose direction King Elfred was altogether guided in this his goodly foundation At which time also Asserius Meneuensis a writer of those times affaires read the Grammar and Rhetoricke and affirmeth that long before them G●●das Melkin Ninius Kentigern S. German and others spent there their liues in learned studies From which time that it continued a Seed plot of learning till the Norman Conquest ●ugul●us recordeth who himselfe then liued No maruell then if Matthew Paris calleth Oxford the second Schoole of Christendome and the very chiefe Pillar of the Catholike Church And in the Councell holden at Vienna it was ordained that in Paris Oxford Bononia and Salamanca
whose Grand-father pro ●eris homines incarc●rauit exhareditauit mutilauit 〈◊〉 did pretend by Charter to enfranchise except Wabridge Saple Herthy his owne Demaines But such was the successe by encrochments vnder his two succeeding Sonnes that it drew on the oppressed people to importune a new the Soueraignes redresse which was by the great Charter of the third Henry fruitlesly effected His sonne in the 7. of his Raigne by a Perambulation resuming backe the fruit of his fathers goodnesse and so retaining vntill in his 29. yeare by Petition and purchase of his people for they gaue him a full Fifteene he confirmed the former Charter and by Iury View and Perambulation setled that Boundary of Forrest which contented the people became the square of vniuersall Iustice in this kinde and left in this Shire no more then the three former his owne grounds Forrest 3 This Shire hath foure Centuriatae or Hundreds and had of old time fiue these so called Quia prima institutione ex Hederum aliquet centenarijs compositae These are subdiuided into 79. Parishes whereof fiue besides the Shire-Towne haue Markets These Parishes are measured by Hides and Carucks or Plough-lands more or lesse as either richnes of Soile or strength of the Lord strengthned or extended their limits the Masse in whole containing of the first sort 818. and of the other 1136. These Hides the ancient and generall measure of land except in Kent where the account was by Solms or Lincolnshire Vbinon sunt Hida sed pro Hidis sunt Carucatae were esteemed one hundred Acres Non Normanico sed Anglico numero vna Hida pro sexies viginti Acris ●uo produ●dec●es 〈◊〉 as in the Booke of Domesday Caruca the Teame-land not Ca●ucata for they be different was in quantitie of Acres proportioned to the qualitie of Soile but vsually in this Shire reputed 60. The ●●rgata or Yard-land was a more or lesse part of the Hide as the Acres in number varied which I finde in this Countie from 18. to 42 but for the most part 30 which was the halfe Plough-land And the Bouata or Oxgang presumed in Law for Land in Granary was suited in number of Acres to that Yard-land of which it was a Moitie Thus except in the Fennes laid out per Leucas quarentenas miles and furlongs stands all a measurement of Land in this Shire which containeth in Knights Fees 53 one halfe 2 fifts and a twentieth part And in full estimation of rent and worth rose in the time of the Conquerour to 912. l. 4. s. and now payeth in Fifteene to the King 371. l. 9. s. 7. 〈◊〉 and in tenth from the Clergie 142. l. 6. s. q. 4 This Countie in discition of Titles and administration of Iustice did at the first as the Germans our Ancestors Iurape● Pagos vicos reddere Euery Towneship by their Friburgi or Tenmentall as Triers and the Baron Thain or Head-lord there or the Decanus a good Freholder his Deputie as Iudge determining all ciuill causes a representation of this remaineth still in our Court-Lecte Aboue this and held 12. times a yeare was our Hundred or Wapentake Quae super decem Decan●s centum Friburgosiudicabat Here the Iudges were the Aldermen and Barons or Free-holders of that Hundred Aegelwinus Aldermannus tenuit placitum cum toto Hundredo saith the Booke of Ely This Court had Cognoscence of Causes Ecclesiasticall as Temporall therefore the Iudge or Alderman ought to be such as Dei leges hominum iura studebat promouere thus it went although the Conquerour commanded Ne Aliquis de legibus Episcopalibus amplius in Hundredo placita teneret The next and highest in this Shire was Generale pla●●ū Comitatus the County or Sheriffes Count to which were proper Placita Ciuilia vbi curia Deminorum probantur defecisse Et sit placitum exurga● inter Vauafores duorum Dominorum tractetur in Comitatis The Iudge was the Earle or Sheriffe The Tryers Barones Comitatus Freholders Quiliberat in eo terr● habent not Ciuill onely but Probats of Wils Questions of Tithes Et debita verae Christianitatis Iura were heard and first heard in this Court. Therefore Episcopus Presbyter Ecclesia Quatuor de melioribus villae were a diuncts to the Sheriffe Qui dei lege● secul● negotia iusta consideratione difinirent The Lay part of this liueth in a sort in the Countie and Sheriffe Turne the Spirituall about the raigne of King Stephen by Soueraigne conniuence suffered for the most into the quarterly Synode of the Clergie from whence in imitation of the Hundred Court part was remitted to the Rurall Deaneries of which this Shire had foure And these againe haue beene since swallowed vp by a more frequent and superiour Iurisdiction as some of our Ciuill Courts haue beene There being now left in vse for the most in this Shire for Causes Criminall View of Frankpl●g by grant or prescription A Session of the Peace quarterly and two Goale deliueries by the Soueraignes commission and for Ciuill Causes Courts of Manours or of the County mon●●bly and twice by the Iudges of Assise yearely The Office of Execution and custody of this County is the Sheralfey of old inheritable vntill Eustachius who by force and fauour of the Conquerour disseised Aluric and his heyres forfeited it to the Crowne but since it hath passed by annuall election and hath vnited to it the County of Cambridge 5 Hauing thus farre spoken of the Shire in generall next in obseruation falleth the Shire-Towne Huntingdon Hundandun or the Hunters Downs North seated vpon a rising banke ouer the rich meadowing riuer Owse interpreted by some Authors the Downe of Hunters to which their now common Seale a Hunter seemeth to allude Great and populous was this in the fore-going age the following hauing here buried of fifteene all but three besides the Mother-Church S. Maries in their owne graues At the raigne of the Conquerour it was ranged into foure Ferlings or Wards and in them 256. Burgenses or Housholds It answered at all assessments for 50. Hides the fourth part of Hurstingston Hundred in which it standeth The annuall rent was then 30. l of which as of three Minters there kept the King had two parts the Earle the third the power of Coynage then and before not being so priuatiuely in the King but Borowes Bishops and Earles enioyed it on the one side stamping the face and stile of their Soueraigne in acknowledgement of subordinacie in that part of absolute power and on the reuerse their owne name to warrant their integritie in that infinite trust 6 The Castle supposed by some the worke of the Elder Edward but seeming by the Booke of Domesday to be built by the Conquerour is now knowne but by the ruines It was the seate of Waltheof the great Saxon Earle as of his succeeding heyres vntill to end the question of right betweene Se●●●ice and the King of Scots Henry the second laid it as you see yet doth it remaine
the head of that honour on which in other Shires many Knights Fees and sixteene in this attended Here Dauid Earle of this and Arguise father of Isabel de Brus founded the Hospitall of S. Iohn Baptist And Lo●●tote here vpon the Fee of Eustace the Vicount built to the honour of the blessed Virgin the Priory of Blacke Channons valued at the Suppression 232 l. 7. s. ob Here at the North end was a house of Fryers and without the Towne at Hinchingbrooke a Cloister of Nunnes valued at 19. l. 9. s. 2. d. founded by the first William in place of S. Pandonia at Eltesley by him suppressed where neere the end of the last Henry the Family of the Cromwels began their Seat To this Shire-Towne and benefit of the neighbour Countries this Riuer was nauigable vntill the power of Grey a mynion of the time stopt that passage and with it all redresse eyther by Law or Parliament By Charter of King Iohn this Towne hath a peculiar Coroner profit by Toll and Custome Recorder Towne-Clerks and two Bayliffes elected annually for gouernment as at Parliament two Burgesses for aduise and assent and is Lord of it selfe in Fee-Farme The rest of the Hundred wherein this Shire-Towne lyeth is the East part of the County and of Hurst a Parish in the center of it named HVRSTINGSTON it was the Fee-farme of Ramsey Abbey which on a point of fertile land thrust out into the Fennes is therein situate founded in the yeare 969 to God our Lady and S. Benedicte by Farle Aylwin of the Royall bloud replenished with Monkes from Westbury by Oswold of Yorke and dedicated by D●nstan of Canterburie Archbishops By Abbat Reg●ald 1114 this Church was redified by Magna●●ll Earle of Essex not long after spoyled and by Henry the Third first of all the Norman Princes visited when wasted with the 〈◊〉 warres Regalis mensae Hospitalitas it abbreuiata fuit vt cum Abbatibus Clericis viris satis humilibus hospitia quaesunt prandia This Monastery the shrine of two martyred Kings Ethelbright and Ethelred and of Saint 〈◊〉 the Persian Bishop by humble pietie at first and pious charitie ascended such a pitch of worldly fortune that it transformed their Founder religious pouertie into their ruine the attribute of Ra●●y the rich for hauing made themselues Lords of 387. Hides of land whereof 〈◊〉 in this Shire so much as at an easie and vnder rent was at the Suppression valued at 1983 l 15 s 3. d q. but by account of this time annually amounts to 7000 〈◊〉 they then began to affect popular command and first inclosing that large circuit of land and water for in it lyeth the Mile-square Meere of Ramsey as a peculiar Seignory to them called the Balent or Bandy bounded as the Shire from E●y and from Norman-Crosse with the Hundred Meere by Soueraigne Grant they enioyed regall libertie And then aspiring a step further to place in Parliament made Broughton the head of their Baro●e annexing to it in this Shire foure Knights Fees Thus in great glory it stood aboue 400. yeares vntill Henry the Eight amongst many other once bright Lamps of Learning and Religion in this State though then obscured with those blemishes to wealth and ease concomitant dissolued the house although Iohn Warboys then Abbot and his 60 blacke Monkes there maintained were of the first that vnder their hands and conuentuall Seale protested Quod Romanus Pontifex non habet maiorem aliquam Iurisdictionem collatam sibi à Deo in Regno Angliae quam quivis alius externus Episcopus A Cell to this rich Monastery was S. Iuces Priory built in that place of Slep by Earle Adelmus in the raigne of the last Edmund where the incorrupted body of S. Ius there once an Hermit in a vision reuealed was by Ednothus taken vp in his Robes Episcopall and dedicated in the presence of Siward Earle of this Countie and that Lady of renowned piety Ethelfleda to the sacred memory of this Persian Bishop Not farre from this is Somersham the gift of the Saxon Earle Brithnothus to the Church of Ely before his owne fatall expedition against the Danes It is the head of those fiue Townes of which the Soke is composed and was an house to the See of Ely well beautified by Iohn Stanley their Bishop but now by exchange is annexed to the Crowne As these so all the rest of this Hundred was the Churches land except Rippon Regis ancient Demaine To which Saple reserued Forrest adioyned and the greater Stiuecly giuen by the last Dauid Earle of Huntingdon in Fee to his three Seruants Sentlice Lakerutle and Camoys 8 NORMANS CROS the next Hundred taketh name of a Crosse aboue Stilton the place where in former ages this Diuision mustered their people whence Wapentake is deriued it had in it two religious houses the eldest in the confines of Newton and Chesterton neere the Riuer of Auon now Nene founded by the first Abbesse Kineburga the Daughter of Penda and Wife of Aelfred King of Northumberland West side a Trench where Ermin-street-way crossed ouer the Riuer by a Stone-bridge whose ruines are now drowned whence the Roman Towne there sea●ed on both sides tooke the name Durobriua as Traiectus Fluminis But this Nunnery as raised was also ruined by the Danes before the Conquest The other a Monastery of Cistertian blacke Monks erected in honour of the Virgin Mary by the second Simon Earle of Huntington at Saltry Iudeth the Land of a Lady of that name wife of Earle Waltheof daughter to Lambert Earle of Le●us Neece to the Conquerour by his Sister her Mother and Grand-mother to this Founder Malcome William Kings of Scots Earles of Hamingdon and Heires of this Lady strengthened by seuerall Charters this pious worke Many chiefe of that Line as the last Earle Dauid brother to King William as Isabel the wife of Robert d● Brus his Daughter heyre and most of the second branch her Progenie making here their Burials This house now leuell with the ground maintained besides the Abbot sixe Monkes and 22 Hindes and was at the Suppression valued at 199. l. 11. c. 8. d The Founders and Patrons of this Monastery were the Lords of the next place Connington first the seate of Turkillus Earle of the East-Angles that inuited Swayn from Denmarke to inuade this Land and who first squared out the vnbounded marishes of this part to the bordering Townes his rule of proportion allowing to euery Parish tantum de Ma●isco quantum de sicca terra in bredth in which none sine licentia Domini might vel federe vel salcare but leauing most to inter-common by vicinage This Dane exiled when the rest of his Countreymen were by Edward Confessor his land here was giuen to Earle 〈◊〉 by whose eldest heire Matilda marryed to Dauid King of Scots it went along in that Male line vntill by death issuelesse of Iohn Earle of Chester and Huntingdon it fell in partage to his sister I●abel de
Brus one of his heires from whose second Sonne Bernard the Familie of Cotton by lineall succession holdeth this Land whereto Glarton the adioyning Parish is now by bountie of a second branch annexed It was in this Shire the head of the honour of Belleine on which 〈…〉 Sibson 〈◊〉 and Ves●yes Mannor in Chesterton attended part of it is the fre●● Sea 〈◊〉 foure mile 〈◊〉 bredth ouer which when Emma and her Children the issue of Canuti● sayled with some perill her Husband in preuention of the like from Bottsey in a strait course to the opposite firme land lined with his Attendant Swords that passage which since hath borne the name of Swords Delph Kings or Canutus dyke This Seignory was granted by the Conquerour to Eustace Earle of Bollein Brother to Lambert Earle of Leins and Father to Godfrey King of Ierusalem reuerting it was giuen to Richard Earle of Cornwall who granted out of it the two Meeres Vbbe Meere and Brich Meere in Fee-Farme to the Church of Ramsey Then after sundry changes it came to Iohn of Gaunt in exchange of the Earledome of Richmond and so by descent fell againe into the Crowne Washingley not farre off from the ancient Lord of that name by D●we and Otter came to the Prices that now posseth it In Chesterton from Wadsheafe by Dennyes there is to the Beuils an ancient name in this Shire a Mannor descended The rest from Aegidius de Merke who gaue there much to Royston Priory passed by Amundeuill to Gloucester and so to Vesey by exchange In Elton the house rich in a beautious Chappell from Denham to Sapcotes and Saultre Beaumes from that surname neere the time of the Conquest by Louth to Cornwallis descended as Bottlebridge by Gimels Drayton Louet vnto Sherley the now Lord. 9 LETTVNESTAN HVNDRED hath that name from Leighton a Towne in the middest of it giuen by Earle Waltheof to the Church of Lincolne which after shared it into two Prebendaries One the Parsonage impropriate which still remaineth the other the Lordships was resumed by Henry the eight and now by the Heire of Darcy matched to the Lord Clifton is become the seate of his Barony This Hundred had in it no house of Religion but Stonley a Priorie of seauen blacke Channons of the order of S. Augustine founded by the Bigrames and at the Suppression valued at 62. l. 12. s 3. d ob It stood within the reach of the great Mannor Kimbolton once an Hundred which was the land of Earle Harold the Vsurper after by Graunt it came with the Chase of Swinesheued to Fitz-Peter from whom by Magnauil to Bohum who in time of the 〈◊〉 Barons built there a Forcelet and so to Stafford by whose attainturre forsaited it was giuen by Henry the eight to the Familie of Wingfield that now possesseth it At Bugden the See of Lincolne hath a seate and was Lord of Spaldwick and the Soke giuen in compensation from the Church of Ely when rent from them it was by the first Henry made a Bishopricke vntill of late that Church gaue vp their interest in Spaldwicke to the Crowne Brampton was giuen by King Iohn at Mirabel to Earle Dauid and by Ada his youngest Daughter fell to Hastings Earle of Pembroke and now is reuerted to the King To the same Earle Dauid by gift of the former King came Alcumesbury and by the bounty of Iohn Scot his sonne to Segraue and so to the Lord Barkley the late possessor To Quincy●arle ●arle of Winthester was Keston by Henry the second giuen by whose Heyre generall Ferrars it came to the late Earle of Essex and by exchange to the Crowne 10 TOVLESLAND HVNDRED taketh name likewise of a Towne therein situate In the out Angle of this to the memory of S. Neotus a Monke of Glasterbury but the supposed sonne to 〈◊〉 King of the West-Saxons whose body from 〈◊〉 in Cornwall was transferred to Arnalphesbury then of Arnulphus a holy man now Eynesbury named Earle Alrick and Ethelfleda turned the Palace of Earle Elfred into a Monastery of blacke Monkes which was razed by the Danes but out of the ashes of this Roisia wife to Richard the sonne of Earle Gilbert to God our Lady de Becco and S. Neot as a Cell to the Abbey of Becco in Normandy erected vp of blacke Monkes in the yeare 1113. the late Priorie of S. Nedes suppressed by Henry the eight and valued at 256. l. 15. d q. At Southo the Land of Eustachius the Sheriffe Louetote made the seate of that Seignory on which in this Shire 13. Knights Fees and a halfe depended But from his line by gift of Verdon and Vesey drowned were these in the honour of Gloucester Neare to this at Cretingsbury dwelt Sir Adam de Cretings famous in Edward the thirds warres of France whose Heyre Generall Wanton doth now possesse it Staunton giuen by the first William to Gilbert de Gaunt after the death issuelesse of De Rupes escheated to the King who gaue it to Ioan his sister Queene of Scots She on the Abbey of Tarent bestowed part the rest reuerting being giuen to Segraue descended to the Barons of Berkly Godmanchester or Gormonchester so named of that Dane to whom Aelfred at his conuersion granted some regiment in these parts was the olde land of the Crowne now the Inhabitants in fee farme by grant of King Iohn pro Sexies viginti libris pondere numero It is flat seated by as fruitfull and flowry Meadowes as any this Kingdome yeeldeth and is the most spacious of any one Parish in fertile tillage oft hauing waited on their Soueraigne Lords with ninescore Ploughes in a rurall pompe Some from the name Gunicester which this often beareth in record suppose it the Citie where Machutus placed his Bishops Chayre But for certaine it was that Romane Towne Durosipont of the Bridges named so many hundred yeares vntill the light of our Britain● Story ouershone it forgotten Thus as this Citie so the olde Families haue beene here with time outworne few onely of the many former now remaining whose Surnames before the raigne of the last Henry were in this Shire of any eminency But Non indignemur mortalia Nomina solui Cernimus exemplis Oppida posse mort Let 's not repine that Men and names doe dye Since stone-built Cities dead and ruin'd lye RVTLAND-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIX RVTLAND-SHIRE the least of any County in this Realme is circulated vpon the North with Lincolne-shire vpon the East and South by the Riuer Weland is parted from Northampton shire and the West is altogether held in with Leicester-shire 2 The forme thereof is round and no larger in compasse then a light horse-man can easily ride about in a day vpon which occasion some will haue the Shire named of one Rut that so rode But others from the rednesse of the Soile will haue it called Rutland and so the old English-Saxons called it for that Roet and Rut is in their tongue Red with vs and may very well
Ocean all along pestered with inlets of salt waters and sands which are neither firme nor safe for trauellers as those in the South proued vnto King Iohn who matching North-ward from Northfolke against his disloyall Barons vpon those washes 〈…〉 and carriage by the sodaine returne of the Sea and sofenesse of the sands 5 Her Soile vpon the West and North is abundantly 〈◊〉 pleasant 〈…〉 pasturage areable and meadowing grounds the East and South fenny and 〈…〉 barren but for fowle and fish exceeding any other in the Realme wherein at some times and season of the yeare hath beene taken in nets in August at one draught aboue three thousand Mallards and other Fowles of the like kinde 6 The Shires commodities consist chiefly in Corne Cattle Fish Fowle Flax and Alablaster as also in a Plaister much esteemed of by the Romans for their workes of Imagery and whereof Plinie in his Naturall History maketh mention And the Astroites a precious stone Star-like pointed with fiue beames or rayes anciently esteemed for their vertue in victories vpon the South-west of this County neere Beuer are found not farre thence in our Fathers memory at Harlaxton was ploughed vp a brasen vessell wherein was inclosed a golden Helmet of an ancient fashion set with precious stones which was presented to Kathren of Spaine Wife and Dowager to King Henry the eight 7 This Shire triumpheth in the births of Beauclerke King Henry the first whom Selby brought forth and of King Henry the fourth at Bullingbrooke borne but may as iustly lament for the death of King Iohn herein poysoned by S●non a Monke of Swynsted Abbey and of Queene Eleanor wife to King Edward the first the mirrour of wedlocke and loue to the Commons who at Hardby neere Bullingbrooke his birth place ended her life 8 Trade and commerce for prouision of life is vented thorow thirtie one Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Lincolne the Counties namer is chiefe by Ptolemie and Antonine called Lindum by Beda Linde-collma and by the Normans Nichol. Very ancient it is and hath beene more magnificall as by her many ouerturned ruines doth appeare and farre more populous as by Demesdayes Booke is seene where it is recorded that this Citie contained a thousand and seauen Mansions and nine hundred Burgesses with twelue Lage-men hauing Sac and Soc. And in the Normans time saith Malmesbury it was one of the best peopled Cities of England being a place for trafficke of Merchandize for all commerce by Land or Sea Herein King Edward the third ordained his Staple for the Mart of Wools Leather and Lead and no lesse then fiftie Parish Churches did beautifie the same but now containeth onely fifteene besides the Cathedrall Some ruines yet remaines both of Frieries and Nunneries who lye now buried in their owne ashes and the Citie conquered not by warre but by time and very age and yet hath she not escaped the calamitie of sword as in the time of the Saxons whence Arthur enforced their Host the like also did Edmund to the destroying Danes and by the Normans it suffered some dammage where King Stephen was vanquished and taken prisoner and againe by the third Henry that assaulted and wan it from his rebellious Barons By fire likewise it was fore defaced wherein not onely the buildings were consumed but withall many men and women in the violence thereof perished as also by an Earth-quake her foundation was much weakened and shaken wherein the faire Cathedrall Church dedicated to the Virgin of Virgins was rent in peeces The gouernment of this Citie is committed yearely to a Maior tow Sheriffes twelue Aldermen in Scarlet a Sword a Hat of Estate a Recorder Sword-bearer and foure Sergeants with Maces whose situation on a sleepe hill standeth for Longitude in the degree 20. 10. scruples the Pole eleuated for Latitude from the degree 53. and 50. scruples 9 Much hath beene the deuotion of Princes in building religious houses in this Countie as at Crowland Lincolne Markeby Leyborne Grenfeld Aluingham Newnersby Grymmysby Newsted Elsham Stay●feld Syxhyll Torkesey Bryggerd Thorneholme Nuncotton Fosse Heyings Axholme I le Goykewell S. Michaels neere Stamford Swyn●shead Spalding Kirkested c. 10 Commotions in this Shire were raysed the eight and twentieth of King Henry the Eight where twentie thousand making insurrection violently sware certaine Lords and Gentlemen to their Articles But no sooner they heard of the Kings power comming but that they dispersed themselues and sued for pardon And againe in the third yeare of King Edward the Sixt in case of Inclosu●es Lincolne rose in seditious manner as did they of Cornwall Deuon-shire York-shire and Norfolke but after some flaughters of their chiefest men were reduced to former obedience NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXII NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE from Nottingham her chiefest Towne hath the name and that somewhat softned from the Saxons Snoddenzaham for the many Dennes or Caues wrought in her Rocks and vnder ground lyeth bordered vpon the North North west with York-shire vpon the East a good distance by Trent is parted froM and with Lincoln-shire altogether confined the South with Leicester-shire and the West by the Riuer Erwash is seperated from Darby-shire 2 For forme long and Ouall-wise doubling in length twice her bredth whose extreames are thus extended and distance obserued From Finingley North to Sleanford in the South are thirtie eight English miles her West part from Teuersall to Besthorp in the East are little more then nineteene whose circumference draweth much vpon one hundred and ten miles 3 The Ayre is good wholesome and delectable the Soile is rich sandy and clayie as by the names of that Counties diuisions may appeare and surely for Corne and Grasse so fruitfull that it secondeth any other in the Realme and for Water Woods and Canell Coales abundantly stored 4 Therein groweth a Stone softer then Alablaster but being burnt maketh a plaister harder then that of Paris wherewith they flower their vpper roomes for betwixt the Ioysts they lay onely long Bulrushes and thereon spread this Plaister which being throughly dry becomes most solide and hard so that it seemeth rather to be firme stone then mortar and is trod vpon without all danger In the West neere Worksop groweth plentie of Liquorice very delicious and good 5 More South in this Shire at Stoke in the Raigne of King Henry the seauenth a great battle was fought by Iohn De-la-Pole Earle of Lincolne which Richard the Vsurper had declared his heire apparant but Richard losing his life and De-la Pole his hopes in seeking here to set vp a Lambert fell downe himselfe and at Newarke after many troubles King Iohn got his peace with the end of his life 6 Trade and commerce for the Counties prouision is frequented in eight Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Nottingham is both the greatest and best a Towne seated most pleasant and delicate vpon a high hill for buildings stately and number of faire streets surpassing and surmounting many other Cities and for a spacious and most faire
Market-place doth compare with the best Many strange Vaults hewed out of the Rockes in this Towne are seene and those vnder the Castle of an especiall note one for the story of Christs Passion engrauen in the Walls and cut by the hand of Dauid the second King of Scots whilst he was therein detained prisoner Another wherein Lord Mortimer was surprised in the non-age of King Edward the Third euer since beating the name of Mortimers Hole these haue their staires and seuerall roomes made artifically euen out of the Rockes as also in that hill are dwelling houses with winding staires windowes chimneys and roome aboue roome wrought all out of the solide Rocke The Castle is strong and was kept by the Danes against Burthred Ethelred and Elfred the Mercian and West-Saxon Kings who together laid their siege against it and for the further strength of the Towne King Edward surnamed the Elder walled it about whereof some part as yet remaines from the Castle to the West-gate and thence the foundation may be perceiued to the North where in the midst of the way ranging with this banke stands a gate of Stone and the same tract passing along the North part may well be perceiued the rest to the Riuer and thence to the Castle are built vpon and thereby buried from sight whose circuit as I tooke it extendeth two thousand one hundred and twentie pases 7 In the Warres betwixt Stephen and Maud the Empresse by Robert Earle of Glocester these Wells were east downe when also the Towne it selfe suffered the calamitie of fire but recouered to her former estate hath since increased in beautie and wealth and at this day is gouerned by a Maior and sixe Aldermen clad in Scarlet two Sheriffes two Chamberlaines a Towne-clerke and sixe Sergeants with Maces their Attenders whose position hath the Pole eleuated fiftie three degrees 25. minutes in Latitude and hath the Meridian nine degrees and 25. minutes This Towne hath beene honoured by these Princes titles and these Princes dignified with the Earledome of Nottingham whose seuerall Armes and Names are in the great Map expressed Religious houses that haue beene erected and now suppressed in the compasse of this Countie chiefly were Newsted Lenton Shelford Southwell Thurgarton Blith Welbeck and Radford in Nottingham the White and Gray Fryers besides a little Chappell dedicated to Saint Iohn All which shew the deuotions of those former times which their remembrance may moue if not condemne vs that haue more knowledge but farre lesse pietie DARBY-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXIII DARBY-SHIRE lyeth inclosed vpon her North parts with Yorke-shire vpon the East with Nottingham-shire vpon the South with Leicester-shire and vpon the West is parted with the Riuers Doue and Goyt from Stafford and Chesse-shires 2 It is in forme somewhat triangle though not of any equall distance growing from her narrow South-point still wider and in the North is at the broadest for from Stretton neere the head of Mese to New-Chapell seated neere the head of Derwent the two extreames from North to South are thirtie eight miles but from the Shire-Oakes vnto the meeting of Mersey and Goyt the broadest part of all this Shire is not fully twentie nine the whole in circumference extendeth to an hundred and thirtie miles 3 The ayre is good and very healthfull the sile is rich especially in her South and East parts but in the North and West is hilly with a blacke and mossie ground both of them fast handed to the Ploughers paines though very liberall in her other gifts whose natures thus dissenting the Riuer Derwent doth diuide asunder that taketh course thorow the heart or midst of this Countie The ancient people that possessed these parts in the times of the Romans assaults were the Coritani whom Ptolemie disperseth thorow Northampton-shire Leicester Rutland Lincolne Nottingham and this Shire who were all of them subdued by P. Ostorius Scapula Lieutenant in this Prouince for Claudius the Emperour But Romes Empire failing in Britaine by the intestine Warres among themselues the Saxons a more sauage and fearefull Nation soone brought it vnder their subiection and made this a Prouince vnto their Mercians Kingdome whom the West-Saxons first wanne and againe lost to the Normans 5 It is stored with many Commodities and them of much worth for besides Woods and Cattle Sheepe and Corne euery where ouer-spreading the face of this Countie the Mill-stone Crystall and Allablas●er the Mines of Pit-coale Iron and Lead are of great price whereof the last is mentioned in Flinie who writeth that in Britaine in the very crust of the ground without any deepe digging is gotten so great store of Lead that there is a Law expresly made of purpose forbidding men to make more then to a certaine stint Whose stones are plenteously gotten in those Mountaines and melted into Sowes to no small profit of the Countrey There is found also in certaine veines of the earth Subium which the Apothecarits call Antimonium and the Al●thmists hold in great esteeme 6 Places for commerce or memorable note the first is Darby the Shire-Towne called by the Danes De●aby seated vpon the West banke of Derwent where also a small Brooke rising Westward runneth thorow the Towne vnder nine Bridges before it meets with her farre greater Riuer Derwent which presently it doth after she hath passed Tenant Bridge in the South-East of the Towne But a Bridge of more beautie built all of Free-stone is passed ouer Derwent in the North-East of the Towne whereon standeth a faire stone Chapell and both of them bearing the names of S. Maries fiue other Churches are in this Towne the chiefest whereof is called A●hallowes whose Steeple or Bell-Tower being both beautifull and high was built onely at the charges of young men and maids as is witnessed by the inscription cut in the same vpon euery square of the Steeple Among the miserable desolations of the Danes this Towne bare a part but by Lady Ethelfleda was againe repaired and is at this day in●orporated with the yearely gournment of two Bailiffes elect out of twentie-foure brethren besides as many Burgesses of Common Counsell a Recorder Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants with Mace whose Graduation is obserued from the Equator to be 53. degrees 25. scruples and from the first point in the West 19. degrees 2. scruples 7 Little-Chester by the Romish Mony there daily found seemeth to haue beene ancient and that a Colonie of the Roman Souldiers there lay Yet of farre greater fame was Repandunum now Repton where Ethelbald the ninth King of the Mercians and fifteenth Monarch of the Englishmen slaine at Seggeswald by the treason of his Subiects was interred and whence Burthred the last King of that people was expulsed with his Queene Ethelswith by the rage of the Danes after twentie two yeares raigne But with a more pleasing eye we may behold Melborne the memoriall of Englishmens great valour where in that Castle was kept Prisoner Iohn Duke of Burbon taken captiue in the Battle of Agincourt
and therein detained the space of nineteene yeares 8 Things of stranger note are the hot Water-springs bursting forth of the ground at Buxton where out of the Rocke within the compasse of eight yards nine springs arise eight of them warme but the ninth very cold These run from vnder a faire square building of free-stones and about three-score paces off receiue another hot spring from a Well inclosed with foure flat stones called Saint Annes neere vnto which another very cold spring bubled vp The report goeth among the by-dwellers that great cures by these waters haue beene done but daily experience sheweth that they are good for the stomacke and sinewes and very pleasant to bathe the body in Not farre thence is Elden hole whereof strange things haue beene told and this is confidently affirmed the waters that trickle from the top of that Caue which indeed is very spacious but of a low and narrow entrance doe congeale into stone and hang as ickles in the roofe Some of them were shewed at my being there which like vnto such as the frost congealeth were hollow within and grew Taper-wise towards their points very white and somewhat Crystall-like And seauen miles thence vpon a mounted hill standeth a Castle vnder which there is a hole or Caue in the ground of a marueilous capacitie which is commonly called The Deuils Arse in the Peake whereof Geruase of Tilbury hath told many pretie tales and others doe make it one of the wonders of our Land 9 As in other Counties the deuotions of the religious haue beene made apparent in the erection of places for Gods peculiar seruice so in this haue beene founded eight of that nature which were Dale Detelege Darby Rep●on Bechif Grai●sley Fauerwell and Pollewerke whose peace and plentie stood secure from all danger till the blustering windes arising in the Raigne of King Henry the eight blew off the pinacles of their beauteous buildings and shooke asunder the reuenewes of those Foundations which neuer are like againe to be laid STAFFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXIIII STAFFORD-SHIRE whose situation is much about the middle of England meeteth vpon the North with Chesse-shire and Darby and that in a Triangle point where three stones are pitched for the bounds of these Shires it is parted from Darby shire on the East with Dowe and with Trent the South is confined with Warwicke and Worcester-shires and the West butteth against the Countie of Shrop-shire The forme thereof is somewhat Lozeng-like that is sharpe at both ends and broadest in the midst The length extending from North to South is by measure fortie foure miles and the bredth from East to West twenty seauen miles the whole in circumference one hundred and fortie miles 3 The ayre is good and very healthfull though ouer-sharpe in her North and Moreland where the snow lyeth long and the winde bloweth cold 4 The Soile in that part is barren of Corne because her hilles and Mores are no friends vnto Tillage the middle is more leuell but therewithall wooddie as well witnesseth that great one called the Cank But the South is most plenteous in Corne and Pasturage 5 Her ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII whom Ptolemie placeth in the Tract that containeth Shrop-shire Worcester-shire Chesse-shire and this all which were possessed by the Mercian-Saxons when their Heptarchy flourished And Tameworth in this Shire was then held their Kings Court The Danes after them often aflayed herein to haue seated as witnesseth Ternall then Th●●tenhall by interpretation The habitation of Pagans ●●brued with their bloud by King Edward the elder But the Inhabitants of this Prouince Beda tearmes The midland Englishmen because to his seeming it lay in the heart of the Land which when the Normans had made Conquest of all many of them set downe their rest here whose posteritie at this day are fairely and further branched into other parts 6 The Commodities of this Countie consist chiefly in Corne Cattle Alablaster Woods and Iron if the one proue not the destruction of the other Pit-coale Flesh and Fish whereof the Riuer Trent is said to swarme and others arising and running thorow this Shire doe so batten the ground that the Meadowes euen in the midst of Winter grow greene such are Dowe Manifold Churnot Hunsye Yenden Tean Elith Trent Tyne and Sowe whereof Trent is not onely the principall but in esteeme accounted the third of this Land 7 Stafford the Snire-Towne anciently Betheney from Bertelin a reputed holy man that therein lead an Hermits life was built by King Edward the elder incorporated by King Iohn and vpon the East and South parts was walled and trenched by the Barons of the place the rest from East to North was secured by a large Poole of water which now is become faire Meadow grounds The tract and circuit of these welles extended to twelue hundred and fortie pases thorow which foure Gates into the foure winds haue passage the Riuer Sowe running on the South and West of the Towne King Edward the sixt did incorporate the Burgesses and gaue them a perpetuall succession whose gouernment is vnder two Bailiffes yearely elected out of one and twentie Assistants called the Common Counsell a Recorder whereof the Dukes of Buckingham haue borne the Office and as yet is kept a Court of Record wherein they hold Plea without limitation of summe a Towne-Clerke also from whose Pen I receiued these Instructions and to attend them two Sergeants at Mace This Towne is sited in the degree of Latitude 53. 20. scruples and of Longitude 18. and 40. scruples 8 But Leichfield more large and of farre greater same is much her ancient knowne vnto Beda by the name of Licidfeld which Rosse doth interpret to be The field of deadbodies for the number of Saints vnder the rage of Dioclesia● there slaine vpon which cause the Citie beareth for her Armes an Eschocheon of Landskip with diuers Martyrs in diuers manner massacred Here Oswin King of Northumberland ouer-comming the Pagan-Mercians built a Church and made it the See of Duina the Bishop whose successors growne rich with golden reasons so ouercame King Offa and the Adrian the Pope that an Archiepiscopall Pale was granted Bishop Eadulph to the great disgrace of Lambert Arch-bishop of Canterbury In this Church were interred the bodies of Wulshere and Celred both of them Kings of the Mercians But when the mindes of men were set altogether vpon gorgeous building this old foundation was new reared by Roger Clinton Bishop of this See and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Chad and the Close inwalled by Bishop Langton The gouernment of this Citie is by two Bailiffes and one Sheriffe yearely chosen out of twentie-foure Burgesses a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants their Attendants 9 Houses of Religion erected in this Shire were at Leichfield Stafford De la Crosse Cru●den Trentham Burton Tamworth and Woluer-hampt●n These Votaries abusing their Founders true pieties and heaping vp riches with disdaine of the Laitie laid themselues open
generalitie is reasonable fertile and yeelds sufficiency of Corne and Cattle within it selfe One part whereof is particularly made famous by a 〈◊〉 of Stone out of which the stones newly hewen be very soft but seasoned with winde and 〈◊〉 of themselues doe naturally become exceeding hard and solide Another by a kind of 〈◊〉 whereof it consisteth which being burnt and conueyed into the other parts of the Country which are hilly and some what cold serue to manure and enrich their Corne-fields 6 That the Romans flourishing in military prowesse made their seuerall stations in this Country is made manifest by their Monuments by many Inscriptions fastned in the Walles of Churches by many Columnes engrauen with Roman work● found lying in Church-yards by many 〈◊〉 Altars digd vp that were erected as it should seeme to their Tutelar Gods for they had locall and peculiar Topicke Gods whom they honoured as Keepers and Guardians of some particular places of the Country as also by a kinde of Brickes which they vsed for the Romans in time of peace to auoid and withstand idlenesse as an enemy to vertuous and valorous enterprises still exercised their Legions and Cohorts in casting of ditches making of High-wayes building of Bridges and making of Brickes which hauing sithence bin found and from time to time digd out of the ground proue the Antiquitie of the place by the Romane Inscriptions vpon them 7 No lesse argument of the pietie hereof are the many Monasteries Abbyes and Religious houses that haue beene placed in this Country which whilest they retained their owne state and magnificence were great ornaments vnto it but since their dissolution and that the teeth of Time which deuours all things haue eaten into them they are become like dead carkasses leauing onely some poore ruines and remaines aliue as reliques to posteritie to shew of what beautie and magnitude they haue beene Such was the Abbey of Whi●●y founded by Lady Hilda daughter of the grand-childe vnto King Edwine Such was the Abbey built by Bolcon which is now so razed and laid Ieuell with the earth as that at this time it affords no appearance of the former dignitie Such was Kirkstall Abbey of no small account in time past founded in the yeare of Christ 1147. Such was the renowned Abbey called S. Maries in Yorke built and endowed with rich liuings by Alan the third Earle of little Britaine in America but since conuerted into the Princes house and is called The Mannour Such the wealthy Abbey of Fountaines built by T●urstin Arch bishop of Yorke Such was the famous Monastery founded in the Primitiue Church of the East-Saxons by Wilfrid Arch-bishop of Yorke and enlarged being fallen downe and decayed by Odo Arch-bishop of Canterbury Such was Drax a religious house of Chanons Such that faire Abbey built by King William the Conquerour at Silby where his Sonne Henry the first was borne in memory of Saint German who happily confuted that contagious Pelagian Heresie which oftentimes grew to Serpentine head in Britaine These places for Religion erected with many more within this Prouinciall Circuit and consecrated vnto holy purposes shew the antiquitie and how they haue beene sought vnto by confluences of Pilgrimes in their manner of deuotions The midst of which superstitious obscurities are since cleared by the pure light of the Gospell reuealed and the skirts of Idolatry vnfolded to her owne shame and ignominie And they made subiect to the dissolution of Times seruing onely as antique Monuments and remembrances to the memory of succeeding Ages 8 Many places of this Prouince are famoused as well by Name being naturally fortunate in their situation as for some other accidentall happinesse befallen vnto them Hallifax famous as well for that Iohannes defacro Besco Author of the Sphere was borne there and for the Law it hath against stealing and for the greatnesse of the Parish which reckoneth in it eleuen Chappels whereof two be Parish-Chappels and in them to the number of twelue thousand people In former times it was called Horton and touching the alteration of the name this prety story is related of it namely That a Clerke for so they call him being farre in loue with a maid and by no meanes either of long prayses or large promises able to gaine like affection at her hands when he saw his hopes frustrate and that he was not like to haue his purpose of her turned his loue into rage and cut off the maides head which being afterwards hung vpon an Ewe tree common people counted it as an hallowed relique till it was rotten And afterwards such was the credulitie of that time it maintained the opinion of reuerence and Religion still for the people resorted thither on pilgrimage and perswaded themselues that the little veynes that spread out betweene the Barke and Body of the Ewe tree like fine threds were the very haires of the maids head Hereupon it was called by this name Haligfax or Haly-fax that is Holy-Hayre Pomfret is famous for the Site as being seated in a place so pleasant that it brings forth Liquori●e and great plentie of Skiriworts but it is infamous for the murther and bloudshed of Princes The Castle whereof was built by Hildebert Lacy a Norman to whom William the Conquerour gaue this Towne after Alrick the Saxon was thrust out of it 9 But I will forbeare to be prolixe or tedious in the particular memoration of places in a Prouince so spatious and onely make a compendious relation of Yorke the second Citie of England in Latine called Eboracum and Eburacum by Ptolemy Brigantium the chiefe Citie of the Brigants by Ninius Caer Ebrauc by the Britaines Caer Effro● The British History reports that it tooke the name of Ebrauc that founded it but some others are of opinion that Eburacum hath no other deriuation then from the Riuer Ouse running thorow it It ouer-masters all the other places of this Country for fairenesse and is a singular ornament safegard to all the North parts A pleasant place large and full of magnificence rich populous and not onely strengthened with fortifications but adorned with beautifull buildings as well priuate as publike For the greater dignitie thereof it was made an Episcopall See by Constantius and a Metropolitane Citie by a Pall sent vnto it from Homorius Egbert Arch-bishop of Yorke who flourished about the yeare seauen hundred fortie erected in it a most famous Library Richard the third repaired the Castle thereof being ruinous and King Henry the eight appointed a Counsell in the same to decide and determine all the causes and Controuersies of the North parts according to equitie and conscience which Counsell consisteth of a Lord President certaine Counsellers at the Princes pleasure a Secretarie and other Vnder-Officers The originall of this Citie cannot be fetcht out but from the romanes seeing the Britaine 's before the Romanes came had no other Townes then Woods fenced with Trenches and Rampiers as Caesar and Strabo doe testifie And that it
was a Colony of the Romanes appeares both by the authoritie of Ptolemy and Antonine and by many ancient Inscriptions that haue beene found there In this Citie the Emperour Seuerus had his Palace and here gaue vp his last breath which ministers occasion to shew the ancient custome of the Romanes in the military manner of their burials His body was caried forth here by the Souldiers to the Funerall fire and committed to the flames honoured with the Iusts and Turnaments both of the Souldiers and of his owne sonnes His ashes bestowed in a little golden pot or vessel of the Prophyrat stone were carryed to Rome and shrined there in the monument of the Antoni●s In this Citie as Spartian●●s maketh mention was the Temple of the Goddesse Bellona to which Seuerus being come thither purposing to offer sacrifice was erroneously led by a rusticall Augur Here Fl Velerius Constantinus surnamed Chlorus an Emperour of excellent vertue and Christian pietie ended his life and was Defied as appeares by ancient Coines and his sonne Constantine being present at his Fathers death forthwith proclaimed Emperour from whence it may be gathered of what great estimation Yorke was in those dayes when the Romane Emperours Court was held in it This Citie flourished a long time vnder the English-Saxons Dominion till the Danes like a mightie storme thundring from out the North-East destroyed it and distained it with the bloud of many slaughtered persons and wan it from Osbright and Flla Kings of Northumberland who were both slaine in their pursuite of the Danes which Alcuine in his Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland seemed to pre●age before when he said What signifieth that raining downe of bloud in S. Peters Church of Yorke euen in a faire day and descending in so violent and threatning a manner from the top of the roofe may it not be thought that bloud is comming vpon the Land from the North parts Howbeit At●e●stane recouered it from the Danish subiection and quite ouerthrew the Castle with the which they had fortified it yet was it not for all this so freed from warres but that it was subiect to the Times fatally next following Neuerthelesse in the Conquerours time when after many woefull ouerthrowes and troublesome stormes it had a pleasant calme of ensuing peace it rose againe of it selfe and flourished afresh hauing still the helping hand both of Nobility and Gentry to recouer the former dignitie and bring it to the perfection it hath The Citizens fenced it round with new wals and many towers and bulwarkes and ordaining good and wholesome lawes for the gouernment of the same Which at this day are executed at the command of a Lord Maior who hath the assistance of twelue Aldermen many Chamberlaines a Recorder a Towne-Clerke sixe Sergeants at Mace and two Esquires which are a Sword-bearer and the Common Sergeant who with a great Mace goeth on the left hand of the Sword The Longitude of this Citie according to Mercators account is 19. degrees and 35. scruples the Latitude 54. degrees and fortie scruples 10 Many occurrents present themselues with sufficient matter of enlargement to this discourse yet none of more worthy consequence then were those seuerall Battles fought within the compasse of this Countie wherein Fortune had her pleasure as well as in the proofe of her loue as in the pursuit of her tyranny sometime sending the fruits of sweet peace vnto her and otherwhiles suffering her to taste the sowrenesse of warre At Conishorough in the Britaine tongue C●aer Conan was a great battle fought by Hengist Captaine of the English-Saxons after he had retyred himselfe thither for his safetie his men being fled and scattered and himselfe discomsited by A●relius Ambrosius yet within few dayes after he brought forth his men to battell against the Britaines that pursued him where the field was bloudy both to him and his for many of his men were cut in pieces and he himselfe had his head chopt off as the British History saith which the Chronicles of the English-Saxons deny reporting that he dyed in peace being surcharged and ouer-worne with the troublesome toyles and trauels of warre Neere vnto Kirkstall Oswie King of Northumberland put Penda the Mercian to flight the place wherein the Battle was ioyned the Writers call Winwid Field giuing it the name by the victory And the little Region about it in times past called by an old name Elmet was conquered by Eadwin King of Northumberland the sonne of Aela after he had expelled Cereticus a British King in the yeare of Christ 620. At Casterford called by Antonine Legeolium and Legetium the Citizens of Yorke slew many of King Ethelreds Army and had a great hand against him in so much as he that before state in his throne of Maiestie was on a sodaine daunted and ready to offer submission But the most worthy of memory was that Field fought on Pal●-Sunday 1461. in the quarrell of Lancaster and Yorke where England neuer saw more puissant Forces both of Gentry and Nobilitie for there were in the field at one time partakers on both sides to the number of one hundred thousand fighting men When the fight had continued doubtfull a great part of the day the Lancastrians not able longer to abide the violence of their enemies turned backe and fled amaine and such as took part with Yorke followed them so hotly in chase and kild such a number of Noble and Gentlemen that thirtie thousand Englishmen were that day left dead in the field 11 Let vs now loose the point of this compasse and saile into some other parts of this Prouince to finde out matter of other memorable moment Vnder Knansbrough there is a Well called D●●ping-well in which the waters spring not out of the veynes of the earth but distill and trickle downe from the rockes that hang ouer it It is of this vertue and efficacie that it turnes wood into stone for what wood soeuer is put into it will be shortly couered ouer with a stony barke and be turned into stone as hath beene often obserued At Giggleswicke also about a mile from Settle a Market-Towne there are certaine small springs not distant a quaits cast from one another the middlemost of which doth at euery quarter of an houre ebbe and flow about the height of a quarter of a yard when it is highest and at the ebbe falleth so low that it is not an inch deepe with water Of no lesse worthinesse to be remembred is S. Wilfrids Needle a place very famous in times past for the narrow hole in the close vaulted roome vnder the ground by which womens honesties were wont to be tryed for such as were chaste passe through with much facilitie but as many as had plaid false were miraculously held fast and could not creepe through Beleeue if you list The credible report of a Lampe found burning euen in our Fathers remembrance when Abbeyes were pulled downe and suppressed in the Sepulchre of constantius within a
certaine vault or little Chappell vnder the ground wherein he was supposed to haue beene buried might beget much wonder and admiration but that L. Zius confirmeth that in ancient times they had a custome to preserue light in Sepulchres by an artificiall resoluing of gold into a liquid and farry substance which should continue bruning a long time and for many ages together THE BISHOPRICKE OF DURHAM CHAPTER XXXIX THe Bishopricke of Durham containeth those parts and Towne-ships that 〈…〉 the Reuer Tees and Derwent and all along the German-Sea 〈…〉 on the North wit● Northumberland and their Iurisdictions parted by the 〈…〉 touched by Cumberland Westmorland and from 〈…〉 Riuer Tees and by the same water on her South from Yorke-shire 〈…〉 By the German-Sea 2 The forme thereof is triangle 〈…〉 for from her South 〈◊〉 vnto the West-point are about thirtie miles from thence to the North-east and 〈…〉 are likewise as many and her base along the Sea-shore are twentie 〈…〉 Circumference about one hundred and three miles 3 The ayre is sharpe and very piercing and would be more 〈◊〉 not that the 〈◊〉 from the German-Seas did helpe much to dissolue 〈◊〉 and snow and the store of coales therein growing and gotten doe warme the body and keepe backe the cold which 〈…〉 besides their owne vse doth yeeld great commodities vnto this Prouince by trade thereof 〈◊〉 other parts 4 For Soile it consisteth much alike of Pastures 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 grounds the East is the richest and most champion the South more moorish but 〈…〉 without either grasse or graine notwithstanding 〈…〉 with as great gaine both in rearing vp Cattle and 〈…〉 groweth so neere to the vpper 〈…〉 wheeles doe turne vp the same Some hold their substance to be a clammie kinde of clay hardned with heat abounding in the earth and so becomming concocted is nothing else but Bitumen for proofe whereof these Coales haue both the like smell and operation of Bitumen for being sprinkled with water they burne more vehemently but with oyle are quite extinguished and put out 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne vnto Ptolemie were the Brigantes of whom we haue spoken in the Generall of Yorkeshire they being subdued by the romans after whom the Saxons made it a part of their Northumberlands Kingdom at first a Prouince belonging to the Deirians and enioyed by Ella their first King afterwards inuaded by the Danes and lastly possessed by the Normans whose site being so neere vnto Scotland hath many times felt their fury and hath beene as a Buckler betwixt them and the English for which cause the Inhabitants haue certaine freedomes and are not charged with seruice as other Counties are so that this with Westmorland Cumberland and Northumberland are not diuided into hundreds in those Parliament Rolles whence I had the rest which want I must leaue for others to supply 6 Ouer this Countie the Bishops thereof haue had the Royalties of Princes and the Inhabitants haue pleaded priuiledge not to passe in seruice of warre ouer the Riuer of Tees or Tyne whose charge as they haue alledged was to keepe and defend the corps of S Cuthbert their great adored Saint and therefore they termed themselues The holy-werk-folkes And the repute of this Cuthbert and his supposed defence against the Scots was such that our English Kings in great deuotion haue gone in pilgrimage to visit his Tombe and haue giuen many large possessions to his Church such were King Egfred Aelfred and Guthrun the Dane Edward and Athelstan Monarch of England and zealous Cannte the greatest of all who came thither bare-footed and at Cuthberts Tombe both augmented and confirmed their Liberties This Saint then of nothing made Durham become great and William the Conquerour of a Bishopricke made it a County Palatine at that time William Careleph Bishop of the Diocesse pulled downe the old Church which Aldwin had built and with sumptuous cost laid the foundations of a new wherein S. Cuthberts Shrine in the vacancy of the Bishops was the Keeper of the Castle-keyes In the West of this Church and place called Gallile the Marble Tombe of venerable Beda remaineth who was borne at Iaerro in this Countie and became a Monke at Weremouth whose painefull indust●es and light of learning in those times of darknesse are wonderfull as the volumes which he wrote doe well declare And had the idle Monkes of England imployed their times after his example their Founders expectations had not beene frustrate nor those foundations so easily ouerturned But the reuenge of sinne euer following the actions of sinnes dissolued first the largenesse of this Counties liberties vnder the raigne of King Edward the First and since hath shaken to peices those places herein erected vnder the raigne of King Henry the eight such were Durham Sherborne Stayndr●p Iarro ●eremouth and Egleton all which felt the reward of their idlenesse and wrath of him that is jealous of his owne honour 7 Things of rare note obserued in this Shire are three pits of a wonderfull depth commonly called the Hell-Kettles which are adioyning neere vnto Darlington whose waters are some what warme These are thought to come of an Earth-quake which happened in the yeare of Grace 1179. whereof the Chrenicle of Tin-mouth maketh mention whose record is this On Christmas day at Oxe●hall in the Territorie of Darlington within the Bishopricke of Durham the ground heaued vp aloft like vnto an high Tower 〈…〉 all that day as it were vnmoueable vntill the euening 〈◊〉 then fell with so horrible a noise that it made all the neighbour dwellers sore afraid and the earth swallowed it vp and made in the same place a deepe pit which is there to be seene for a testimonie vnto this day 8 Of no lesse admiration are certaine stones lying within the Riuer Weere at Butterbre neere Durham from whose sides at the Ebbe and low water in the Summer issueth a certaine salt reddish water which with the Sunne waxeth white and growing into a thicke substance becommeth a necessary sal● to the vse of the by-dwellers 9 And places of elder times had in a●rount by the Romans were Benonium now Binchester and C●ndereum Chester in the street where their monies haue beene digged vp and at Codercu●● so much that Egelrik Bishop of Durham was therewith made exceeding rich VVESTMORLAND CHAPTER XL. VVESTMORLAND by some late Latine Writers is c●lled Westmaria and Westmorlandia by some later Westmoria and in our English Tongue Westmorland It came to be thus named in our language by the situation which in euery part is so plenteously full of Moores and high hils teaching one to another that Westmorland with vs is nothing else but a Westerne moorish Country Hauing on the West and North-side Cumberland on the South-part Lanca-shire on the East-side Yorkeshire and the Bishopricke of Durham 2 The length thereof extended from Burton in her South to Kirkland in her North-part is 30. miles the broadest part from East to West is from the Riuer Eden to Dunbal
rase-stones containing 24. miles the whole circumference about 112. miles 3 The forme thereof is somewhat long and narrow the Aire sharpe and piercing purging it selfe from the trouble of grosse foggy mists and vapours by reason of which the people of this Prouince are not acquainted with strange diseases or imperfections of body but liue long and are healthfull and attaine to the number of many yeares 4 The Soile for the most part of it is but barren and can hardly be brought to any fruitfulnesse by the industry and painfull labour of the husbandman being so full of infertile places which the Northern Englishmen call Moores yet the more Southerly part is not reported to be so sterile but more fruitfull in the vallies though contained in a narrow roome betweene the Riuer Lone and W●●ander mear and it is all termed by one name The Barony of Kendale or Candale that is the dale by Can taking the name of the Riuer Can that runs through it 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Brigantes mentioned in the seuerall Counties of Yorke Lancaster and Cumberland 6 It is not commended either for plentie of Corne or Cattle being neither stored with arable grounds to bring forth the one nor pasturage to breed vp the other the principall profit that the people of this Prouince raise vnto themselues is by cloathing 7 The chiefest place of which is Kandale or Kendale called also Kirkeby Kendale standing on the banke of the Riuer Can. This Towne is of great trade and resort and for the diligent and industrious practise of making cloath so excels the rest that in regard thereof it carrieth a supereminent name aboue them and hath great vent trashque for her wollen cloaths through all the parts of England It challengeth not much glory for Antiquitie onely this it accounteth a great credit that it hath dignified three Earles with the title thereof as Iohn Duke of Bedford whom Henry the Fift being his brother aduanced to that honour Iohn Duke of Sommerset and Iohn de Foix whom King Henry the sixt preferred to that dignitie for his honourable and trusty seruices done in the French warres It is a place of very ciuill and orderly gouernment the which is mannaged by an Alderman chosen euery yeare out of his twelue Brethren who are all distinguished and notified from the rest by the wearing of purple garments The Alderman and his Senior Brother are alwayes Iustices of Peace and Quorum There are in it a Towne-Clerke a Recorder two Sergeants at Mace and two Chamberlaines By Mathematicall obseruation the site of this Towne is in the degree of Longitude 17. 30. scruples from the first West point and the Pole eleuated in Latitude to the degree 55. and 15. minutes 8 Places of memorable note for Antiquitie are Vertera mentioned by Antonine the Emperour and Aballaba which we contractly call Apelby In the one the Northerne English conspired against William the Conquerour in the beginning of the Norman gouernment In the other the A●rel●an Maures kept a station in the time of the Romanes and their high streete is yet apparently to be seene by the ridges thereof which lead by Apelby to a place called Brouonacum mentioned in the Booke of Prouinciall notices The antique pieces of Romane Coyne other whiles digd vp hereabouts and some Inscriptions not long since found shew of what continuance they haue beene although Time which deuouteth all things hath so fed vpon their carkasses many ages together as it hath almost consumed both houses and Inhabitants For Apelby now is bare both of people and building and were it not for the antiquitie that makes it the more esteemable in whose Castle the Assises are commonly kept it would be little better in account then a village Verterae is long since decayed and the name of it changed into Burgh for it is commonly named Burgh vnder Sta●emore In which it is said a Romane Captaine made his abode with a band of Directores in the declining age of the Romane Empire These two places William of Newborough calleth Princely Holds and writeth that William King of Scots a little before he himselfe was taken prisoner at Alnewicke surprized them on a sodaine but King Iohn recouered them after and liberally bestowed them vpon Robert V●pont for his many worthy seruices 9 There is mention made but of one religious house that hath beene in all this Country and that was a little Monastery seated neere vnto the Riuer Lod●● built by Tho●as the sonne of Gospatricke the sonne of Orms where there is a fountaine or spring that ebbes and flowes many times a day and it is thought that some notable Act of Atchieuement hath beene performed there for that there be huge stones in forme of Pyramides some nine foot high and fourteene foot thicke ranged for a mile in length directly in a row and equally distant which might seeme to haue beene there purposely pitc●ed in memory thereof but what that Act was is not now knowne but quite worne out of remembrance by times iniurie 10 Other matters worthy obseruation are onely these That at Amboglana now called Amble-side neere the vpper corner of Winander mear there appeares at this day the ruines of an ancient Citie which by the British-Brickes by Romane-money oftentimes found there by High-wayes paued leading vnto it and other likelihoods seemes to haue beene a worke of the Romanes The Fortresse thereof so long fenced with a ditch and rampire that it tooke vp in length one hundred thirtie two Ells and in bredth eight There are also neere Kendale in the Riuer Can two Catadupae or Waterfals where the waters descend with such a forcible downefall that it compels a mightie noyse to be heard which the neighbour Inhabitants make such vse of as they stand them in as good stead as Prognostications for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more cleare and with a louder eccho in their eares they certainly looke for faire weather to follow But when that on the South doth the like they expect foggy mists and showres of raine 11 This Prouince is traded with foure Market-Townes fortified with the strength of seuen Castles and hath 26. Parishes in it for the celebration of Diuine Seruice CVMBERLAND CHAPTER XLI CVMBERLAND the furthest North-west Prouince in this Realme of England confronteth vpon the South of Scotland and is diuided from that Kingdome partly by the Riuer ●irso● then crossing Eske by a tract thorow Solome-Mosse vntill it come to the Solwaye Frith by Ptolemie called the 〈◊〉 Baye The North-west part is neighboured by Northumberland more East-ward with Westmerland the South with Lancashire and the West is wholly washed with the Irish Seas 2 The forme whereof is long and narrow pointing wedge-like into the South which part is altogether pestred with copped-hilles and therefore hath the name of Cop-land The middle is more leuell and better inhabited yeelding sufficient for the sustenance of man but the North is wilde and
solitary combred with hilles as Copland is 3 The ayre is piercing and of a sharpe temperature and would be more biting were it not that those high hilles breake off the Northerne stormes and cold falling snowes 4 Notwithstanding rich is this Prouince and with great varieties thereof is replenished the hilles though rough yet smile vpon their beholders spread with sheepe and cattle the vallies stored with grasse and corne sufficient the Sea affordeth great store of fish the land ouer-spread with varietie of fowles and the Riuers feed a kinde of Muskle that bringeth forth Pearle where in the mouth of the Irt as they lie gaping and sucking in dew the Country people gather and sell to the Lapidaries to their owne little and the buyers great gaine But the Mines Royall of Copper whereof this Country yeeldeth much is for vse the richest of all the place is at Keswick and Newland where likewise the Blacke Lead is gotten whose plentie maketh it of no great esteeme otherwise a commoditie that could hardly be missed 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Brigantes whom Ptolemie disperseth into Westmorland Richmond Durham York-shire and Lanca-shire But when the Saxons had ouer borne the Britaines and forced them out of the best to seeke their resting among the vast Mountaines these by them were entred into where they held play with those enemies maugre their force and from them as Mariama doth witnesse the Land was called Cumber of those Kumbri the Britaines But when the State of the Saxons was fore shaken by the Danes this Cumberland was accounted a Kingdome it selfe for so the Flower-gatherer of Westminster recordeth King Edmund saith he with the helpe of Leoline Prince of South-Wales wasted all Cumberland and hauing put out the eyes of the two sonnes of Dunmail King of that Prouince granted that Kingdome vnto Molcolm King of Scots whereof their eldest sonnes became Prefects This Prouince King Stephen to purchase fauour with the Scots what time he stood in most need of ayd confirmed by gift vnder their Crowne which Henry the second notwithstanding made claime vnto and got as Newbrigensis writeth and laid it againe in the Marches of England since when many bickerings betwixt these Nations herein haue hapned but none so sore against the Scotish side as was that at Sallome-Mosse where their Nobilitie disdaining their Generall Oliuer Sinclere gaue ouer the Battle and yeelded themselues to the English which dishonour pier●ed so deeply into the heart of King Iames the fift that for griefe thereof he shortly after died 6 Many memorable Antiquities remaine and haue beene found in this County for it being the Confines of the Romans Possessions was continually secured by their Garrisons where remaine a● this day parts of that admirable wall built by Seuer●s also another Fortification from W●rkinton to Elus Mouth vpon the Sea-shoare toward Ireland by Stilico raised when vnder Theodosius he suppressed the rage of the Picts and Irish and freed the Seas of the Saxons Pirats Vpon Hard-knot hill Moresby Old Carleil Pap-castle along the Wall and in many other places their ruines remaine with altars and Inscriptions of their Captaines and Colonies whereof many haue beene found and more as yet lie hid 7 The chiefest Citie in this Shire is Carlile pleasantly seated betwixt the Riuers Eden Petterell and Caud by the Romans called Luguvallum by Beda Luell by Ptolemy Leucopibia by Nu●tu● Caer-Lu●lid and by vs Carlile This Citie flourishing vnder the Romans at their departure by the furious outrages of the Scots and Picts was deiected yet in the dayes of Egfrid King of Northumberland was walled about but againe defaced by the ouer-running Danes lay buried in her owne ashes the space of two hundred yeares vpon whose ruines at length Rufus set his compassionate eye and built there the Castle planting a Colony of Flemings to secure the Coasts from the Scots but vpon better aduisement remoued them into Wales After him Henry his brother and successour ordained this Citie for an Episcopall See whose site is placed in the degree of Longitude from the first West part 17. and 2. scruples and the Pole thence eleuated from the degree of Latitude 55. and 56. scruples 8 West from hence at Burgh vpon the sand was the fatall end of our famous Monarch King Edward the first who there leauing his warres vnfinished against Scotland left his troubles and soone missed life to his vntimely and soone lamented death 9 And at Salkelds vpon the Riuer Eden a Monument of seuentie seuen stones each of them ten foot high aboue ground and one of them at the entrance fifteene as a Trophie of Victory was erected These are by the By-dwellers called Long Megge and her daughters NORTHVMBERLAND CHAPTER XLII THe County of Northumberland hath on the South the Bishopricke of Durham being shut in with the Riuer Derwent and with Tyne the North is confined vpon Scotland the West vpon part of Scotland and part of Cumberland the East-side lyeth altogether vpon the Sea called Mare-Germanicum 2 The forme thereof is Triangle and differs not much in the sidings for from her South-East vnto the South-West-point are neere vnto 40. miles from thence to 〈◊〉 North-point are sixty miles and her base along the Sea-shoare 45. miles The whole in circum●●●● is about one hundred fortie fiue miles 3 The Ayre must needs be subtile and piercing for that the Northernly parts are most exposed to extremitie of weathers as great winds hard frosts and long lying of snowes c. Yet would it be farre more sharper then it is were not the Germane Seas a ready meanes to further the dissolution of her Ice and Snow and the plentie of Coales there gotten a great helpe to comfort the body with warmth and defend the bitter coldnesse 4 The Soile cannot be rich hauing neither fertilitie of ground for Corne or Cattle the most part of it being rough and in euery place hard to be manured saue onely towards the Sea and the Riuer Tyne where by the great diligence and industrious paines of good husbandry that part is become very fruitfull 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country mentioned by Ptolemie were called OTTALINI OTTADENI and OTTADINI which by an easie alteration as M. Cambden saith if it had ●ene called OTTATINI signifying about the Riuer Tyne or on the further side of Tyne 〈…〉 this people were planted there would haue beene much consonance both with the name of the Inhabitants and the Position and Site of the Prouince 6 The chiefest commoditie that enricheth this Countie are those Stones Linthancraces which we call Sea-coales whereof there is such plentie and abundance digged vp as they doe not onely returne a great gaine to the Inhabitants but procure also much pleasure and profit to others 7 No place of this Prouince vents forth so many of these Sea-coales into other regions as Newcastle doth being the very eye of all the Townes in this County for it doth not onely minister reliefe
by such prouision to all other parts of England but doth also farnish the wants of forraine Countries with her plentie By meanes of this and the intercourse of traffique which it hath the place is growne ex●eeding rich and populous Before the Conquest it was called Monk-chester hauing beene 〈…〉 in the possession of Monkes and Chester being added which signifies a bulwarke or place of defence shewes that in ancient time it had beene a place of Fortification 8 After the Conquest it got the name of Newcastle by the new Castle which Robert the Sonne of William the Conquerour built there out of the ground What it was called in old time is not knowne yet some are of opinion that it may be thought to haue beene Gatrosentum for that Gateshead the suburbe as it were of the same expresseth in the owne proper signification that British name Gatrosentum It is now most enobled both by the Hauen which Tyne maketh of that notable depth that it beareth very tall Ships and is able to defend them against stormes and tempests As also by many fauours and honours wherewith it hath beene dignified by p●ces for Richard the second granted that a Sword should be carried before the Maior and Henry the sixt made it a County consisting of a Corporation within it selfe It is adorned with foure Churches and fortified with strong wals that haue eight gates It is distant from the first West line 21 degrees and 30 minutes and from the Equinoctiall liue towards the North-pole thirtie-foure degrees and fiftie-seaven minutes 9 The vtmost Towne in England and the strongest hold in all Britaine is Barwicke From whence it had the name is not certainely made knowne Some fetch it from Berengarius a Duke neuer read of Howsoeuer this is better to be said then trusted and whence soeuer it hath the name it is seated betweene two mightie Kingdomes shooting farre into the Sea with the which and the Riuer Tweed it is almost encompassed and whensoeuer any discord fell betweene the two Nations this place was the first thing they tooke care of It hath endured the brunts of diuers inroades and incursions and beene oftentimes both possessed and repossessed of the Scots and English But since it was reduced vnder the command of Edward the fourth our Kings haue from time to time so strengthened it with new workes and fortifications as they cut off all hopes of winning it The Gouernour of this Towne is also Warden of the East Marches against scotland The Longitude of it according to Mathematicall obseruation is 21. degrees and 43. minutes the Latitude 55. degrees and 48. minutes 10 The Inhabitants of this County are a warlike people and excellent light horsemen and are made fierce and hard by the seuerall encounters of the Scots and not much vnlike them in neither betwixt whom in this County many Battles haue beene fought and the successes oftentimes waued through very doubtfully the victory sometimes falling to the scots sometimes to the English At Otterburne was one in which three or foure times it stood doubtfully indifferent till in the end the Scots got the vpper hand of the English Howbeit their glory was not made so illustrious by this Conquest but that it was as much darkened by the foile they receiued at A●wicke where William King of Scots was taken and presented prisoner to Henry the second As also by that Battell at Brumridge where King Athelstan fought a pitcht field against Anlafe the Dane Constantine King of Scots and Eugenius King of Cumberland and that with such fortunate successe as it hath left matter sufficient to fill the pennes of Historians Flodden field also memorable in the death of Iames the fourth King of Scots who was there slaine and his Army ouerthrowne in a sharpe fight as he displayed his Banner in great hope against England when King Henry the eight lay at the siege of Turnay in France 11 Other Battles in this Countie haue beene as that at Hexam called by Bede Hangustald wherein Iohn Neuill Marquesse Montacute encountred the Leaders of the Lancastrian faction with much courage and with greater successe put them to flight for which he was made Earle of Northumberland by Edward the fourth As also that at Dilston by Bede called Diuelshur●e where Oswald hauing the faith of Christ for his defence and armour slew Cedwall the Britaine in a set battell himselfe straight-wayes becomming a professed Christian and causing his people to be instructed in Christian Religion 12 Many memorable antiquities are found in this Country along the wall and in other places As pieces of Coyne Inscriptions broken and vnperfect Altars c. the ruines of the wall yet to be seene but none that deserues more to be remembred then Wall-Towne by Bede called Ad Muru● for that Segebert King of the East-Saxons was in it baptized in the Christian Faith by the hands of Paulinus and Halyston where the same Paulinus is said to haue baptized many thousands into the Faith of Christ in the Primitiue Church of the English Nation 13 Busy-gap is a place infamous for robbing and theeuing and is therefore rather remembred as a cautiatory note for such as haue cause to trauell that way then for any proper matter of worth it hath that merits place with other parts of this Prouince Other matters of obseruation are onely these that North Tyne running through the Wall waters two Dales which breed notable light horse-men and both of them haue their hils hard by so boggy and standing with water on the top that no horsemen are able to ride through them and yet which is wonderfull there be many great heapes of Stones called Lawes which the neighbouring people are verily perswaded were cast vp and laid together in old time in remembrance of some that were slaine there There is also a martiall kinde of men which lie out vp and downe in little Cottages called by them Sheals and Shealings from Aprill to August in scattering fashion summering as they terme it their Cattle and these are such a sort of people as were the ancient Nomades The last not least matter of note is this that the Inhabitants of Morpeth set their owne Towne on fire in the yeare of Christ 1215. in the spight they bare to King Iohn for that he and his Rutars ouer-ranne these Countries MAN ILAND CHAPTER XLIII THe I le of Man is termed by Ptolemy M●neda by Pliny Menauia by Orosius Menania by Beda Menania secunda and by Gyldas 〈◊〉 and M●naw The Britaine name it Men●w the Inhabitants Ma●●ge and we Englishmen The I le of Man It boundeth North-ward vpon Scotland South-ward vpon the I le of Anglesey East-ward vpon part of 〈◊〉 shire and West-ward vpon the Coast of Ireland 2 The forme is long and narrow for from 〈◊〉 to the Mull-hils where it is longest it onely stretcheth it selfe to twentie nine miles but from the widest part which is from Peele-Castle to Douglas-point are scarce nine the whole compasse about
the longest against the Romanes and their necks not brought vnder the yoke of bondage before the dayes of King Edward the first since when they haue attempted to east off their subiection to the English vpon whose stirres raised by Owin Glendouer who hauing beene a fauorite of King Richard the second and discontented by King Henry the fourth in a quarrell with the Lord Grey of Ruthin that intruded vpon his demaines quarrelled with the King and entred into open rebellion and confederacie with all other his rebels drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side in hope to haue had Princes restored of their owne bloud and he maintained the same with wonderfull pride policie and obstinacie for a long time vntill his consederates followers and fauorates and his owne courage credit and maintenance were brought so low by that powerfull King that in the end he perished for very want of food 5 Their Townes are not many neither those that they haue of any stately buildings whereof Bala ●olgethe and Harlech are the Marke●● 〈…〉 in the North-east of this Countie in the Welsh 〈◊〉 in English Pi●●●le-meane a great poole of water doth drowne at least eight score Acres of ground whose 〈…〉 the high land flouds though neuer so great cannot 〈…〉 bigger by their 〈…〉 but if the 〈◊〉 be●●oubled with ouer great blasts and tempests of wi●des she in as great a rage riseth and passeth her bankes as if she would encounter that enemy in fight Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretie sharpe streame entreth and thorow the same glideth without any mixture of the same water as the Inhabitants beleeue more strongly conceited in their opinion for that the Salmon vsually taken in Dee is neuer found in that Poole and the fish called Guimad bred in that Meart neuer is seene in the Riuer Dee South thence neere Dolgelhr in a lower hill a great Rampire of stone and compasse is seene and hath beene some fortification or defence in warre which whilst we were curious to finde out some instructions thereof by report this onely we learned that it was called Caddoryrita Dren according to the name of her neighbour and farre higher hill 6 Vpon the West and Sea-shore of this Shire Harlech a Market and Major Towne standeth bleake enough and barren but onely for Fowle and Fish houses not many neither curiously built wherein standeth a little Chappell decayed and without vse in which lyeth buryed Sir Richard Thimblebye an English Knight who for the delight he tooke in that game remoued his abode from a farre better soyle Here also standeth a most strong and beautifull Castle mounted vpon a hill and with a double Bulwarke walled about commanding the Sea and passage of entrance of such as seeke to inuade the Goast And surely a great pitie it is to see so faire a worke fall to decay the Constable whereof by Patent is euer the Major of this Towne neere vnto which are two great Inlets of Seas which at low water may be passed vpon the Sands with Guides Vpon whose shore as vpon the Sea-coasts in this Countie abundance of Herrings are caught for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the yeare by many people from diuers Countries DENBIGH-SHIRE CHAPTER XI DENBIGH-SHIRE called in Welsh Sire Denbigh retyring more from the Sea within the Countrey on this side of the Riuer Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the Riuer Dee on the North first the Sea for a small space and then Plint-shire encompasseth it on the West Caernaruon and Merioneth-shire on the East Cheshire and Shrop-shire and on the South Mountgomery-shire 2 The forme thereof is long growing wider still towards the North-west and narrower towards the East It is in length from East to West one and thirtie miles and in bredth from North to South seauenteene miles in the whole circuit and circumference one hundred and fourteene miles 3 The ayre is very wholesome and pleasant yet bleake enough as exposed to the windes on all sides and the high hilles wherewith it is in many places enuitoned long retaining the congealed snow The tops whereof in the Summer time are the haruest-mens Almanacks by the rising of certaine vapours thereon in the mornings and foreshew a faire day ensuing 4 The soyle is but barren towards the West part yet the middle where it lieth flat in a valley is most fertile The East side when it is once past the valley findeth Nature to be a very sparing niggard of her sauours but next vnto Dee it feeleth a more liberall extent of her blessings The West part is but here and there inhabited and mounteth vp more then the other with bare and hungry hilles yet the leanesse of the soyle where the hils settle any thing flatting hath beene now a good while begun to be ouercome by the diligent paines and carefull industry of the husbandmen for they paring away the vpper coat of the earth into certaine Turffes with a broad kinde of spade pile them vp artificially on heapes and fire them so as being turned into ashes and throwne vpon the ground so pared they fructifie the hungry barrennesse and sterilitie of soyle and make the fields bring forth a kinde of Rie or Anull-corne in such plentie as is hardly to be beleeued 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Countrey were the Ordouices who being also named Orde●ices or Ordo●icae a puissant and couragious people by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place and tooke heart euen of the soyle it selfe for they continued longest free from the yoke both of Roman and also of English dominion They were not subdued by the Romans before the dayes of the Emperor Domitian for then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation nor brought vnder the command of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first but liued a long time in a lawlesse kinde of libertie as bearing themselues bold vpon their owne magnanimitie and the strength of the Country 6 The Mountaines of this County yeeld sufficiency of Neat Sheepe and Goats The Vallies in most places are very plenteous of Corne especially Eastward on this side betwixt the Riuers of Alen and Dee but the more Westerly part is heathy and altogether barren The heart of the Shire shewes it selfe beneath the hilles in a beautifull and pleasant Vale reaching seauenteene miles in length from South to North and fiue miles or thereabouts in bredth and lieth open onely toward the Sea It is enuironed on euery side with high hilles amongst which the highest is Mo●llenlly on the top whereof is a warlike Fense with Trench and Rampier and a little fountaine of cleare water From these hilles the Riuer Cluyd resorts vnto this Vale and from the very spring-head increased with beckes and brookes doth part it in twaine running thorow the midst of it whereof in ancient time it was named Strat Cluyd for Mariam●s maketh mention of a King of the Strat Cluyd of
it gaue vnto the third It was founded by Henry the second finished by Edward the first and long after gaue harbour and entertainment to that noble but vnfortunate Prince Richard the second comming out of Ireland being within her walles a free and absolute King but no sooner without but taken prisoner by Henry Bullingbrooke Duke of Lancaster losing at that time his libertie and not long after his life This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53. 55. minutes in Longitude 17. For the Castle of Hawarden no record remaines of the first founder but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earles of Chester Howbeit their resistances did not so generally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications as in their Mountaines and Hils which in times of danger serued as naturall Bulwarkes and Defences vnto them against the force of enemies As was that which standeth in a certaine strait set about with woods neere vnto the Riuer Alen called Coles-hull that is Coles-hill where the English by reason of their disordered multitude not ranged close in good array lost the field and were defeated when King Henry the second had made as great preparation as might be to giue battle vnto the Welsh and the very Kings Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex who was Standard-bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance 8 This Country hath many shallow riuers in it but none of fame and note but d ee and Cluyde Howbeit there is a Spring not farre from Rudland Castle of great report and antiquitie which is termed Fons Sacer in English Holy-Well and is also commonly called S. Winefrids Well of whom antiquitie thus reporteth That Winefrid a Christian Virgin very faire and vertuous was doated vpon by a young lustfull Prince or Lord of the Country who not long able to rule his head-strong affections hauing many times in vaine attempted and tryed her chastitie both by rich gifts and large promises could not by any meanes obtaine his desires he therefore in a place of aduantage suddenly surprized and rauished her weake yet resisting body After the deed done the cruell Tyrant to stop her cries and acclamations slew her and cut off her head out of which place did suddenly arise a Spring that continueth to this day carrying from the Fountaine such a forcible streame and current as the like is not found in Christendome Ouer the head of the Spring there is built a Chappell of free stone with Pillars curiously wrought and engraued in the Chancell whereof and glasse window the picture of the Virgin is drawne together with the memoriall of her life and death To this Fountaine Pilgrims are accustomed to repaire in their zealous but blind deuotion and diuers others resort to bathe in holding firmely that the water is of much vertue There be many red stones in the bottome of this Well and much greene mosse growing vpon the sides the superstition of the people holding that those red spots in the stones were drops of the Ladies bloud which all the water in the Spring can neuer wash away and that the mosse about the wall was her haire which though some of it be giuen to euery stranger that comes yet it neuer wasteth But howsoeuer this be carried for truth by the tradition of time the mosse it selfe smels exceeding sweet There is also hard by Kilken a small village within this Countie a little Well of no great note that at certaine times riseth and falleth after the manner of Sea-tydes 9 In the South part of this Country diuided from the rest is a place in some written Coppies of Antonine called Bouium which we now terme Banchor first a Citie and afterwards a Monastery of famous memory and the first that is read of in the world wherein as Beda saith were a great number of Monkes and them diuided into seauen Companies euery one hauing his seuerall Ruler assigned None of these Companies had lesse then three hundred persons deuoted to prayer and to get liuing by their owne labour for themselues and the poore although it hath long since beene vtterly ruinate so as now there is scarce seene the face and outward shew of a dead Citie or Monastery It hath onely the names of two Gates remaining one standing a mile distant from another and betwixt which the Riuer Dee now runneth where are often times found many pieces of Romane Coyne and other tokens of antiquitie But of these shall be more mention made in the following History Another like Monastry but of lesser account stood in the Vale beneath Varis a little Citie placed the Romans in the confines of this Shire and Deabigh-shire and vpon the Ranke of Elwy and Cluyd This the Britaines call 〈◊〉 of the Riuer the Englishmen Asuph of the Founder and the Historiographers Asphensis It is more famouse for antiquitie then for building o● brauery for about the yeare 560 Kentigein Bishop of Glas● being fled 〈◊〉 out of Scotland placed here a Bishops See and erected a Monastry gathering together 66● in a religious brotherhood whereof 300. that were vnlearned gaue themselues to husbandrie and to worke within the Monastery the rest to prayer and meditations When he returned into Scotland he ordained Asaph a godly and vpright man to be gouernous ouer this Monastery of whom it tooke the name and is called Saint Asaphs Another Monastry of great account was at Basingwarke in this County neere vnto which began that admirable Ditch drawne thence vnto the mouth of 〈◊〉 by King Offa the Tract whereof I haue expressed thorow this Shire and will further speake thereof in the following History ANGLESEY CHAPTER XIII ANGLESEY was in the time of the Romans called Mona by the Britaines Mon and Tir-Mon that is the Land of Mon of the ancient English-Saxons Moneg And at last after the Englishmen had by their sharpe and seuerall assaults brought it vnder their rules and became Lords thereof it was termed Anglesey as one would say The Englishmens Iland 2 For an Iland it is albeit it be seuered from the Continent of Britaine but with a small and narrow streight of the riuer Menai and on all other parts beaten vpon with the surging and troublous Irish Sea in which it lyeth somewhat square-wise not much different in length and breadth being where it reacheth out in length from Beau-marish Eastward to the vtmost Promontory West-ward which we call Holy-head twentie miles and in breadth from Llanbaderik North-ward to the point of Menai South-ward seauenteene miles the whole circuit or circumference amounting towards seauentie miles 3 The aire is reasonable gratefull and healthfull and not generally subiect to diseases excepting certaine Agues at some times which are occasioned by the sogs and misty exhalations which arise from the Sea called Mare Virginium with the which this Ile is encompassed 4 The Commodities that commend or rather beautifie this Country are in Corne and Cattle wherewith it not onely enricheth it selfe exceedingly
Imaus in Schithia For all the yeare long these lye mantelled ouer with Snow hard crusted together though otherwise for their height they are open and liable both to the Sunne to dissolue them and the windes to ouer-sweepe them 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordouices of whom we haue sufficiently spoken in the description of the former Prouinces neither need I insist either vpon the pleasures or profits that this Country yeeldeth by reason of the great affinity it hath both of Climate and Commodities with Denbigh-shire and Flint-shire before mentioned But this beyond the other in some places breeds certaine Shel-fishes which being conceiued by an heauenly dew bring forth Pearles in ancient times 〈…〉 of then now they are 6 Touching places of note that Citie is very ancient which the Emperour Antonine calleth Segontium taking name of a Riuer running by which at this day is called Seront some reliques of the walls whereof doe yet appeare neere vnto a little Church consecrated to the honour of Saint Publicius This Citie Ninius calleth Caer Custenith which some interpret the Citie of Constantine Indeed Mathew Westminster saith how true I know not that Anno 1283. here was found the body of Constantius Father to great Constantine which King Edward the first caused to be sumptuously bestowed in the Church of the new Citie which he raised out of the ruines of the old and is now called Ca●●naruon which giueth name to this whole Shire The Towne it selfe yeeldeth a most excellent prospect towards the Sea and is incompassed in a manner round with the wals of the Castle so as we may say it is a Citie within a Castle which taketh vp the whole West-side of it and great pitie it is that so famous a worke should not be perpetuous or euer become the ruine of time which is much feared for the mercilesse vnderminings of the Sea that with her daily and forcible irruptions neuer ceaseth to wash away the foundations of the Key The people of this Towne are well approued for courte●ie and also Ciuill gouernment which is administred by the Constable of the Castle who is euer Maior by Patent hauing the assistance of one Alderman two Bailiffes two Sergeants at Mace and one Towne-Clerke The Townesmen doe not a little glory that King Edward the second was borne there in a Tower of the Castle called Eagle-Tower and surnamed of Caer-nar-uon he being the first Prince of Wales of the English line The site of this Towne according to Mathematicall obseruation is in the degree of Longitude 15. and 50. scruples from the first West-point and the Pole eleuated in Latitude 53. and 50. Bangor the Bishops See though it be now but a small Towne yet it was in time past so large that for the greatnesse thereof it was called Banchor Vaur that is Great Banchor which Hugh Earle of Chester fortified with a Castle But it hath beene long since vtterly ruinated and laid leuell with the ground in so much as there is not any footing to be found or other monuments left thereof although they haue beene sought with all diligent enquiry This Bishops See hath within the Dioces ninetie six Parishes But the ancient Church which was consecrated vnto Daniel sometime Bishop thereof was defaced and set on fire by that notorious Rebell Owen Glendowerdwy who had a purpose also to destroy all the Cities of Wales for that they stood for the King of England And though the same Church was since repaired about the time of King Henry the seauenth yet hath it scarce recouered the resemblance of her former dignitie The Riuer Conwey which limitteth this Shire on the East-side is in Ptolemy by corruption or ignorance of Transcribers called Toisonius in stead of Cononius whence Canonium a Towne mentioned by Antonine tooke name and albeit both it and its name be now vtterly extinct yet is there a couert remembrance thereof in the new name of a poore Village standing among the rubbish thereof called Caer-hean that is The ancient Citie Out of the spoyle whereof King Edward the first built a new Towne at the Riuers mouth termed thereupon Aber-Conwey that is the mouth of Conwey which being formerly fortified by Hugh of Chester and strongly situate and fenced both with wals a faire Castle by the Riuers side deserues rather the name of a Citie then a Towne if it were more populous and traffiqued with Inhabitants Neither must I here forget Newin though but a small Market-Towne for that it pleased the English Nobles Anno 1284 to honour it and the memory of King Arthur with triumphant celebritie after they had subdued the rebellious Ring-leaders of Wales 7 Other matters of memorable note this Country affordeth not much vnlesse perhaps this That iust ouer against the Riuer Conwey where it iflueth into the Sea there sometimes stood an ancient Citie named Diganwey which many yeares agoe was consumed by lightning and so made vtterly desolate as many other monuments haue beene of ancient and worthy memory As likewise that in the Poole Lin-Peris there is a kinde of Fish called there Torco●h hauing a red belly no where else seene For touching these two other miracles famoused by Giraldus and Geruasius that on those his high hils there are two Pooles called the Meares the one of which produceth great store of fish but all hauing onely one eye and in the other there is a moueable Iland which as soone as a man treadeth on it forthwith floateth a great way off whereby the Welsh are said to haue often scaped and deluded their enemies assailing them these matters are out of my Creed and yet I thinke the Reader had rather beleeue them then to goe to see whether it be so or no. SCOTLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION CHAPTER I. SCOTLAND the second Kingdome of Great Britaine and the North part of the Iland hath on the East the Germane Ocean on the North the Orkneys and Deucalidon Sea the West affronted with Ireland and the South hath the Riuer Tweed the Cheuiot Hils and the adiacent Tract reaching to the Sulway Sands whereby it is separated from England 2 This Kingdome is faire and spacious and from these South-borders spreadeth it selfe wide into the East and West till againe it contracts it selfe narrower vnto the Northerne Promontories furnished with all things befitting a famous Kingdome both for Ayre and Soyle Riuers Woods Mountaines Fish Fowle and Cattle and Corne so plenteous that it supplyeth therewith other Countryes in their want The people thereof are of good feature strong of body and of couragious minde and in warres so venturous that scarce any seruice of note hath beene performed but that they were with the first and last in the field Their Nobilitie and Gentry are very studious of learning and all ciuill knowledge for which end they not onely frequent the three Vniuersities of their owne Kingdome S. Andrewes Glasco and Edenbrough the Nurseries of Pietie and Mansions of the sacred Muses but also much
who trauelled through these Ilands reporteth are three Tombes hauing the seuerall Inscriptions of the Kings of Scotland of Ireland and of Norway 19 Among these Westerne Ilands the Hebrides Skie Mula Ila and Arran are the greatest All of them plentifull of Corne Woods Salmons and F●errings as others of Conies Deere Horses and Sheepe where in some they are wilde and in others without any owners but the people vnciuill and lacking Religion they rather liue rudely in state of necessitie then as Lords of these portions which God hath allotted them and with a sufferable ease ignorant of ambition enioy those contentments which some others though they no great summe doe more laboriously attaine vnto by the precepts of Philosopie for feeding themselues with competencie without any excesse they returne all the ouer-plus vnto their Lords as doe the Inhabitants of Hirta and Rona but alas Religion not knowne among them these penurious vertues are rather the curses of Cham then the followings of Christ who forbids vs to be too carefull for the morrow 20 The Iles of Orkenay vpon the North of Scotland lying in a most raging and tempestuous Sea are about three and thirtie in number whereof thirteene are inhabited and the other replenished with Cattle in these are no venomous Serpents nor other vgly vermin the aire sharpe and healthfull and the soile apt to beare onely Oats and Barley but not a sticke of wood among these Pomonia is the greatest accounted and called the Maine-land affording sixe Minerals of Lead and Tinne and in her chiefe Towne a Bishops See wherein are seated twelue Parish-Churches one of them very magnificent for so remote a Country 21 Of all the Romanes Iulius Agricola first discouered the Orkenays yea and subdued them if we will beleeue Tacitus but Pomponius Mela that wrote thirtie yeares before him doth mention them and Iuuenal in Hadrians time after him tels vs the Romanes had won them and lastly Claudian nameth Saxons that were slaine in them and so doth Ninius name Octha and Ebissus Saxon Commanders who in their rouing Pinnaces wasted the Orknays These Ilands Donald Bane the vsurper of the Scotish Crowne gaue to the King of Norway for his assistance and by the Norwegians were they held the space of an hundred and sixtie yeares vntill that Alexander the third King of Scotland with sword and composition got them from Magnus the fourth King of Norway which afterward King Haquin confirmed vnto King Robert Bruce but lastly Christian the first King of Norway and Denmarke vtterly renounced all his right to those Ilands when he gaue his daughter in marriage vnto King Iames the third which deed was further ratified by the Pope who openeth the way to the possession of Kingdomes with his owne key IRELAND DESCRIBED CHAPTER I. THe Traditions of time haue deliuered vnto vs diuers names whereby this famous Iland is recorded to haue beene called yet none of more faire probabilitie then that of Orpheus Aristotle and Claudian by whom it is named Ierna by Iuuenal and Mela called Iuuerna by Diodorus Siculus Iris by Martian of Heraclea Ioyepnia by Eustachius Oyernia and Bernia by the natiue Inhabitants Eryn by the Britaines Yuerdon the Welsh-Bards in their Ballads Tiruolas Totidanan and Banno and by the English Ireland But from whence these diuersities were deriued arise many opinions Doubtlesse it is that Hibernia Iuuerna and Ouernia came from Ierna spoken of by O●pheus and Aristotle and the same Ierna as also Iris Iuerdhon and Ireland from Erin the terme that the Inhabitants now vse From this Erin therefore a word proper to the Nation the originall is most likely to be deduced 2 Some deriue Hiber●●a from Hiberno tempore that is from the winter season some from Hiberus a Spaniard some from a Duke named Irnalph some againe from the ancient Riuer Iberus and 〈◊〉 from Hiere an Irish word which signifieth the west or a westerne coast whence Erin may also seeme to setch the deriuation for it lieth furthest Westward of any Region in all Europe As also for that the Riuer running in the most remote west-part of this Iland is in Ptolemy called Iernus like as the furthest Westerne Promontory in Spaine from whence our Irish men came is by Strabo called Ierne and the Riuer next vnto it by Mela Ierna yea and Spaine it selfe for the Westerne situation is called Hesperia the West-Cape of Africke Hesperium and in Germany Westrich and Westphale● from their position haue their names Postelius a man that rather followed his owne fancy then the iudgement of others fetcheth the originall of Ireland from the Hebrewes as if Irin should be as much as Iurin that is the Iewes land which opinion I hold no better then those that would haue it from the Winter-like stormes although vpon euery winde the aire is cold there 3 Festus Auienus in that little booke which he entituled Ora maritima calleth Ireland Sacram Insulam that is the holy Iland to which opinion the people are soone drawne by reason of the many Saints that the Iland is said to produce and the blessed soile that affords no venomous creatures to retaine life It is thought that Plutarch meant Ireland by his Ogygia for her great antiquitie and of latter times by ●sidore and Bede it was called Scots of those Scots that inhabited it and that thence the name of Scotland together with the Scots themselues came into Britaine 4 For largenesse and circuit in times past this Iland challenged the third place in ranke of all the Iles of the then knowne world for thus haue Geographers left vs that the Indian Taproba● for greatnesse was the first the I le of Britaine the next and this of Ireland the third and for that cause doth Ptolemy call it the little Britaine But how soeuer Strabo hath extended the bredth as broad as the length and others haue formed it in shape like an egge yet latter dimensions haue found it farre otherwise twice longer then broad and may be compared to the forelegge of a Beare if the Si●ile breed no offence Whose East-side hath on it that tempestuous Sea that cutteth her channell betwixt England and this Ireland the West is washed with the Westerne Ocean the North with the 〈◊〉 Caledonian and the South with the Vergiuian Sea 5 The aire of this Iland is delectable and wholesome though neither so cleere nor sub●●● of England which as Mela saith is nothing fauourable for the ripening of Cor●e but so gratefull to the ground that it causeth grasse to grow abund●ntly not onely fresh and long but withall very sweet for all Cattle and in Winter is more subiect to winde then snow and that I may vse the words of Giraldus It is of all Countries most temperate neither forcing the Inhabitants to seeke shade from the frying heat of Cancer nor the chilling cold of Capricorne to driue them to the fire but at all seasons most milde betwixt a sufferable cold and gentle warme heat 6 The soile
too chilling cold not too scorching hot The soyle in some parts is hilly looking 〈◊〉 with wooddy wilde and solitary mountaines yet the vallies below are garnished with Corne-fields And generally all both pleasant for fight and fertile for soile 4 This Prouince is at this day diuided into two parts that is the West Mounster and the South Mounster The West Mounster was inhabited i● old 〈◊〉 by the 〈◊〉 the Velabri and the Vteri●● the South Mounster by the Oudi●● or 〈◊〉 and the Cori●ndi The Velabri and 〈◊〉 are said by Orosius to haue dwelt in that part of the Country where it lyeth outmost Westward and passing towards the Cantabrian Ocean looketh a farre off to Gallitia in Spaine The Luceni of Ireland who seeme to haue deriued their name and originall from the Lucen●● of Gall●tia and of whom there still remaine some reliques in the Barony of Lyxno●● are supposed to haue bin seated in those parts that lie neighbouring vpon the banke of the Riuer Shemon 5 The generall Commodities of this Prouince are Corne Cattle Wood Wooll and Fish The last whereof it affords in euery place plenty abundance of all sorts But none so well knowne for the store of Herrings that are taken there as is the Promontory called Eraugh that lies betweene Bantre and Ballatimore Bay whereunto euery yeare a great Fleet of Spaniards and Portugals resort euen in the middest of Winter to fish also for Cods 6 The principall Citie of the Prouince is Limericke which the Irish call Loumeagh compassed about with the famous Riuer Shennon by the parting of the Channell This is a Bishops See and the very Mart-Towne of Mounster It was first wonne by Reymond le Grosse an Englishman afterwards burnt by Duncnald an Irish petty King of Thuetmond Then in processe of time Philip Breos an Englishman was infeoffed in it and King Iohn fortified it with a Castle which he caused therein to be built In this Castle certaine Hostages making their abode in the yeare 1332 grew as is reported so full of pride and insolency that they flew the Constable thereof and seized the Castle into their owne hands But the resolute Citizens that could neither brooke nor beare with such barbareus crueltie did in reuenge then shew such manly courage and viuacitie as they soone after recouered the Castle againe repaying the Hostages in such hostile manner as that they put them all to the sword without partialitie The position of this Towne is by Mercator placed for Latitude 53. degrees 20. minutes and for Longitude 9. degrees and 34. minutes Neere vnto the Riuer that Ptolemy calleth Daucona and Giraldus Cambrensis by the alteration of some few letters nameth Sauranus and Sauarenus which issueth out of Muskerey Mountaines is seated the Citie Corke graced also with another Episcopall dignitie and with the Bishops See of Clon annexed vnto it which Giraldus calleth Corragia the Englishmen Corke the natiue Inhabitants of the Country Coreach This Towne is so beset on euery side with neighbouring molesters as that they are still constrained to keepe watch and ward as if there lay continuall siege against it The Citizens of this place are all linkt together in some one or other degree of affinitie for that they dare not match their daughters in marriage into the Country but make contracts of matrimony one with another among themselues In this place that holy and religious man Briock is said to haue his birth and breeding who flourished among the Gaules in that fruitfull age of Christianitie and from whom the Diocesse of Sanbr●och in Britaine Armorua commonly called S Brieu had the denomination 7 The Citie which the Irish and Britaines call Porthlargy and the English Waterford though it be last in place yet is it not least in account as being the second Citie of all Ireland as well for the conuenience and commodiousnesse of the Hauen that affords such necessary aptitude for trade and traffique as also for the faithfull loyaltie which it hath alwayes shewed to the Imperiall Crowne of England for euer since it was wonne by Richard Earle of Pembrook● it still performed the obedience and peaceable offices of dutie and seruice vnto the English as they continued their course in the conquest of Ireland whence it is that the Kings of England haue from time to time endowed it with many large Franchises and Liberties which King Henry the seauenth did both augment and confirme 8 Although since the time of S. Patricke Christianitie was neuer extinct in this Country yet the gouernment being haled into contrary factions the Nobility lawles●e and the multitude wilfull it hath come to passe that Religion hath waxed with the temporall common sort more cold and feeble being most of them very irreligious and addicted wholly to superstitious obseruations for in some parts of this Prouince some are of opinion that certaine men are yearely turned into Wolues and made Wolfe-men Though this hath beene constantly affirmed by such as thinke their censures worthy to passe for currant and credible yet let vs suppose that happily they be possessed with the disease and maladie that the Physicians call Lycanthropy which begetteth and engendreth such like phantasies through the malicious humours of Melancholy and so oftentimes men imagine themselues to be turned and transformed into formes which they are not Some againe embrace another ridiculous opinion and perswade themselues that he who in the barbarous acclamation and outcry of the Souldiers which they vse with great forcing and straining of their voices when they ioyne battaile doth not howte and make a noise as the rest doe is suddenly caught from the ground and carried as it were flying in the ayre out of any Country of Ireland into some desert vallies where he feedeth vpon grasse drinketh water hath some vse of reason but not of speech is ignorant of the present condition he stands in whether good or bad yet at length shall be brought to his own home being ●aught with the helpe of Hounds and Hunters Great pitie that the foule fiend and father of darknesse should so grieuously seduce this people with misbeliefe and that these errours be not chased away with the truth of Christian Religion whereby as they carry much grace in their countenances they may also not be void of the inward grace of their soules and vnderstanding 9 This Prouince hath beene fore wasted in the rebellions of Desmond to whose ayde Pope Gregory the thirteenth and Philip King of Spaine sent certaine companies of Italians and Spaniards who arriued not farre from Dingle fortified themselues gaue it the name of Fort de Ore founding loud threats against the whole Country But A●●●ur 〈◊〉 Grey Lord Deputie of Ireland at the first onset decided their quarrell by sheathing his sword in their bowels and Desmond fearefully flying into the woods was by a Souldier cut shorter by the head And againe when the Kingdome of Ireland lay bleeding and put almost to the hazard of the last
impure are not vnwholesome nor of long continuance the rough windes holding them in continuall agitation 4 This equall temperature causeth the ground to bring forth great store of seuerall Trees both fit for building and bearing of fruit plentifull of grasse for the feeding of Cattle and is abundantly furnished with Horses Sheepe and Oxen the Riuers likewise pay double tribute deepe enough to ●arry Vessels either for pleasure or profit and Fish great store both for their owne vses and commoditie of others Salmons in some Riuers of this County abound more in number then in any Riuer of Europe To speake in generall though in some places it be somewhat barren troubled with Loughes Lakes and thicke Woods yet is it euery where fresh and full of Cattle and forrage ready at all times to answer the husbandmans paines But nature is there so little beholding to Art or Industry that the various shew vpon bankes the shady groues the greene meadowes hanging hilles and fields fit for Corne if they were manured doe seeme to be angry with their Inhabitants for suffering all to grow wild and harbarous through their owne negligence 5 This Country in Ptolemies dayes was wholly possessed by the Volutij Darni Robogdji and Erdini who branched and spred themselues into the seuerall parts that Island 6 The people of this Prouince were accustomed in controuersies and solemne protestations to sweare by S. Patrickes Staffe which oath they feared more to breake then if they had sworne by the holy Euangelist Their ancient custome in making their King was this A white Cow was taken which the King must kill and seeth the same in water whole then must he bathe himselfe therein starke naked and sitting in the Cawdron wherein it was sod accompanied with his people round about him he and they vsed to eat the flesh and drinke the broath wherein he sate without cup or dish or vse of hand How farre these prescriptions and customes were different from the conformities of other ciuill Monarchies we may well perceiue by these and other like obseruations of those grosse times and as yet they are more barbarous then is any other part of the Island besides 7 Historians relating of Ireland tell of seuerall Islands in the seuerall Prouinces some full of Angels some full of Deuils some for male onely some for female some where none may liue some where none can die and such effects of trees stones and waters that a man but of easie conceit may well esteeme them as heedlesse as vncertaine So also S. Patrickes Purgatorie a thing of much note in the Tract of this Prouince is a vault or narrow caue in the ground 〈…〉 called Erne Liffer much spoken of by reason of I wot not what fearefull walking spirits and dreadfull apparitions or rather some religious horrour which as some ridiculously dreame was digd by Vlysses when he went downe to parley with those in hell This is the caue which the Inhabitants in these dayes call ●llanu● Frugadory that is The Isle of Purgatory and S. Patricks Pargatory for some persons lesse deuout then credulous affirme that S. Patricke or rather Patricius Secundus an holy Abbot of that name labouring the conuersion of the people of this Prouince and much inforcing the life to come they replied contemptuously vnto him that vnlesse they saw proofes of those joyes and paines he preached they would not lose the possession of their present pleasures in hope or feare of things to come they wist not when Whereupon as they say he obtained at Gods hands by earnest prayer that the punishments and torments which the godlesse are to suffer after this life might be there presented to the eye that so he might more easily root out the sinnes and Heathenish errours that stucke so fast in the hearts of the Irish But touching the credit hereof although common fame and some records doe vtter it I neither will vrge the beliefe nor regard seeing it is no Article of our Creed 8 Matters memorable within this Prouince are these first that the Bishops of Ireland were wont to be consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury in regard of the 〈◊〉 which they had in this Country vntill such time as Iohn Pap●●● a Cardinall was sent thither from Pop● Eugenius the fourth to reforme Ecclesiasticall discipline in this Iland which 〈…〉 so loo●● that there were translations and pluralities of Bishops according to the 〈◊〉 and pleasure of the Metropolitane Also that the Irish-men were accustomed to leaue and forsake 〈◊〉 wedded wiues at their owne free willes whereof Lanfrancke Archbishop of Canterbury complained vnto Theraelua● a King of Ireland And had not this Nation beene corrupted with this vice euen vnto these our dayes both the right of lineall succession had beene more certaine among them and the Gentry and Comminaltie had not in such cruelties imbrued themselues with such effusion of their owne kindreds bloud about their inheritances and legitimation 9 The principall place in this Tract is Armagh neere vnto the Riuer Kalin which albeit it maketh a poore shew is the Archiepiscopall See and Metropolitane of the whole Island Before Saint Patricke had built there a faire Citie for site forme quantitie and compasse modelled out as he saith by the appointment and direction of Angels this place was named Drumfalrch the Irish tell much that it receiued the name of Queene Armacha but the better opinions are that it is the same which Bede calleth Dearmach and out of the Scotish and Irish language interpreteth it The Field of Oakes Here as S. Bernard writeth S. Patricke the Apostle of Ireland ruled in his life time and rested after death in honor of whom it was of such venerable estimation in old time that not onely Bishops and Priests but Kings also and Princes were in generall subiect to the Metropolitane thereof in all obedience and to his gouernment alone Among the Archbishops of this Prouince S. Malachy is famoused who first prohibited Priests marriage in Ireland and as S. Bernard saith who wrote his life at large borrowed no more of the natiue barbarousnesse of that Country then Sea-fishes doe saltnesse of the Seas Also Richard Fitz Ralf commonly called Armachanus is of famous memory who turning the edge of his stile about the yeare 1355. began to oppose his opinion against the Order of Mendicant Friers as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging The chiefe Fort in this Tract is Enis Kelling defended by the Rebels in the yeare 1593 and wonne by Dowdall a most valiant Captaine neere vnto which is a great downfall of water termed The Salmon Leape of which there is a common speech currant among the Inhabitants that it was once firme ground very populous and well husbanded with tillage till it was suddenly ouer flowne with waters and turned into a Lake for some filthy abominable acts of the people against Nature committed with beasts 10 The places of Religion sequestred from other worldly seruices and consecrated to holy purposes erected in this Prouince were The Abbey which sheweth it selfe at Donegal The Monastery of Derie where the Irish Rebell Shane O-N●al receiued such an ouerthrow by Edward Randolph renowned for his seruice in the behalfe of his Country that he could neuer after recouer the losse he sustained at that time The Monastery neere vnto the Riuer Laffer The famous Monastery at the Bay of Knockfergus of the same institution name and order as was that ancient Abbey in England neere vnto Chester called Danchor Also Mellifont Abbey founded by Donald a King of Vriel and much commended by S Bernard And lastly the most renowned Monastery built at Armagh in the yeare of our Saluation 610. out of which very many Monasteries were afterwards propagate both in Britaine and Ireland These places were farre and neere frequented and sought vnto by great confluences of Pilgrims till Time proued their deuotions to be erronious and the pure light of the word reuealed opening the eyes of their vnderstanding hath taught them to shake off the shame of such Superstitions 11 That the people of this County might be kept within the bounds of their dutie this Prouince hath beene secured with fiftie sixe Castles and Forts and for trade of commerce nine Market-Townes appointed being diuided into these Counties ensuing Counties Dunghall or Tyr-connell Vpper Tyrone Nether Tyrone Fermanagh Canan Monaghan Colrane Autrim Downe Armagh Lough FINIS The Table to find the Maps as appeareth by folio ENgland Scotland and Ireland 1 England 2 Kent 3 Sussex 4 Surrey 5 Southhampton 6 The Isle of Wight 7 Dorcetshire 8 Deuon-shire 9 Cornewall 10 Somersetshire 11 Wiltshire 12 Barkeshire 13 Middlesex 14 Essex Countie 15 Suffolke 16 Norfolke 17 Cambridgeshire 18 Hartfordshire 19 Bedfordshire 20 Buckinghamshire 21 Oxfordshire 22 Glocestershire 23 Merefordshire 24 Worcestershire 25 Warwickeshire 26 Northamptonshire 27 Huntingtonshire 28 Rutlandshire 29 Leicestershire 30 Lincolneshire 31 Nottinghamshire 32 Darbishire 33 Staffordshire 34 Shropshire 35 Chester 36 Lancashire 37 Yorkeshire 38 The Bishopricke of Durham 39 Westmorland Cumberland 40 Northumberland 41 The Isle of Man 42 Holy 〈…〉 Wales 44 Pembrokeshire 45 Radnor Breknock Cardigan and Ca●rmarden described 46 Glamorganshire 47 Monmouthshire 48 Montgomery c. 49 Denbigh and Flint described 50 Anglesey and Carnar●an 51 The Kingdome of Scotland 52 The Southyart of Scotland 53 The Southern part of Scotland 54 The Easterne part of Scotland 55 Part of Scotland Stranauern 56 The Isles of Hebrides 57 Cathanes and Orknay 58 Ireland Described 59 Mounster 60 Leinster 61 Connaught 62 Vlster 〈◊〉 MIDIA