generalitie is reasonable fertile and yeelds sufficiency of Corne and Cattle within it selfe One part whereof is particularly made famous by a 〈◊〉 of Stone out of which the stones newly hewen be very soft but seasoned with winde and 〈◊〉 of themselues doe naturally become exceeding hard and solide Another by a kind of 〈◊〉 whereof it consisteth which being burnt and conueyed into the other parts of the Country which are hilly and some what cold serue to manure and enrich their Corne-fields 6 That the Romans flourishing in military prowesse made their seuerall stations in this Country is made manifest by their Monuments by many Inscriptions fastned in the Walles of Churches by many Columnes engrauen with Roman workâ— found lying in Church-yards by many 〈◊〉 Altars digd vp that were erected as it should seeme to their Tutelar Gods for they had locall and peculiar Topicke Gods whom they honoured as Keepers and Guardians of some particular places of the Country as also by a kinde of Brickes which they vsed for the Romans in time of peace to auoid and withstand idlenesse as an enemy to vertuous and valorous enterprises still exercised their Legions and Cohorts in casting of ditches making of High-wayes building of Bridges and making of Brickes which hauing sithence bin found and from time to time digd out of the ground proue the Antiquitie of the place by the Romane Inscriptions vpon them 7 No lesse argument of the pietie hereof are the many Monasteries Abbyes and Religious houses that haue beene placed in this Country which whilest they retained their owne state and magnificence were great ornaments vnto it but since their dissolution and that the teeth of Time which deuours all things haue eaten into them they are become like dead carkasses leauing onely some poore ruines and remaines aliue as reliques to posteritie to shew of what beautie and magnitude they haue beene Such was the Abbey of Whiâ—â—y founded by Lady Hilda daughter of the grand-childe vnto King Edwine Such was the Abbey built by Bolcon which is now so razed and laid Ieuell with the earth as that at this time it affords no appearance of the former dignitie Such was Kirkstall Abbey of no small account in time past founded in the yeare of Christ 1147. Such was the renowned Abbey called S. Maries in Yorke built and endowed with rich liuings by Alan the third Earle of little Britaine in America but since conuerted into the Princes house and is called The Mannour Such the wealthy Abbey of Fountaines built by Tâ—urstin Arch bishop of Yorke Such was the famous Monastery founded in the Primitiue Church of the East-Saxons by Wilfrid Arch-bishop of Yorke and enlarged being fallen downe and decayed by Odo Arch-bishop of Canterbury Such was Drax a religious house of Chanons Such that faire Abbey built by King William the Conquerour at Silby where his Sonne Henry the first was borne in memory of Saint German who happily confuted that contagious Pelagian Heresie which oftentimes grew to Serpentine head in Britaine These places for Religion erected with many more within this Prouinciall Circuit and consecrated vnto holy purposes shew the antiquitie and how they haue beene sought vnto by confluences of Pilgrimes in their manner of deuotions The midst of which superstitious obscurities are since cleared by the pure light of the Gospell reuealed and the skirts of Idolatry vnfolded to her owne shame and ignominie And they made subiect to the dissolution of Times seruing onely as antique Monuments and remembrances to the memory of succeeding Ages 8 Many places of this Prouince are famoused as well by Name being naturally fortunate in their situation as for some other accidentall happinesse befallen vnto them Hallifax famous as well for that Iohannes defacro Besco Author of the Sphere was borne there and for the Law it hath against stealing and for the greatnesse of the Parish which reckoneth in it eleuen Chappels whereof two be Parish-Chappels and in them to the number of twelue thousand people In former times it was called Horton and touching the alteration of the name this prety story is related of it namely That a Clerke for so they call him being farre in loue with a maid and by no meanes either of long prayses or large promises able to gaine like affection at her hands when he saw his hopes frustrate and that he was not like to haue his purpose of her turned his loue into rage and cut off the maides head which being afterwards hung vpon an Ewe tree common people counted it as an hallowed relique till it was rotten And afterwards such was the credulitie of that time it maintained the opinion of reuerence and Religion still for the people resorted thither on pilgrimage and perswaded themselues that the little veynes that spread out betweene the Barke and Body of the Ewe tree like fine threds were the very haires of the maids head Hereupon it was called by this name Haligfax or Haly-fax that is Holy-Hayre Pomfret is famous for the Site as being seated in a place so pleasant that it brings forth Liquoriâ—e and great plentie of Skiriworts but it is infamous for the murther and bloudshed of Princes The Castle whereof was built by Hildebert Lacy a Norman to whom William the Conquerour gaue this Towne after Alrick the Saxon was thrust out of it 9 But I will forbeare to be prolixe or tedious in the particular memoration of places in a Prouince so spatious and onely make a compendious relation of Yorke the second Citie of England in Latine called Eboracum and Eburacum by Ptolemy Brigantium the chiefe Citie of the Brigants by Ninius Caer Ebrauc by the Britaines Caer Effroâ— The British History reports that it tooke the name of Ebrauc that founded it but some others are of opinion that Eburacum hath no other deriuation then from the Riuer Ouse running thorow it It ouer-masters all the other places of this Country for fairenesse and is a singular ornament safegard to all the North parts A pleasant place large and full of magnificence rich populous and not onely strengthened with fortifications but adorned with beautifull buildings as well priuate as publike For the greater dignitie thereof it was made an Episcopall See by Constantius and a Metropolitane Citie by a Pall sent vnto it from Homorius Egbert Arch-bishop of Yorke who flourished about the yeare seauen hundred fortie erected in it a most famous Library Richard the third repaired the Castle thereof being ruinous and King Henry the eight appointed a Counsell in the same to decide and determine all the causes and Controuersies of the North parts according to equitie and conscience which Counsell consisteth of a Lord President certaine Counsellers at the Princes pleasure a Secretarie and other Vnder-Officers The originall of this Citie cannot be fetcht out but from the romanes seeing the Britaine 's before the Romanes came had no other Townes then Woods fenced with Trenches and Rampiers as Caesar and Strabo doe testifie And that it
impure are not vnwholesome nor of long continuance the rough windes holding them in continuall agitation 4 This equall temperature causeth the ground to bring forth great store of seuerall Trees both fit for building and bearing of fruit plentifull of grasse for the feeding of Cattle and is abundantly furnished with Horses Sheepe and Oxen the Riuers likewise pay double tribute deepe enough to â—arry Vessels either for pleasure or profit and Fish great store both for their owne vses and commoditie of others Salmons in some Riuers of this County abound more in number then in any Riuer of Europe To speake in generall though in some places it be somewhat barren troubled with Loughes Lakes and thicke Woods yet is it euery where fresh and full of Cattle and forrage ready at all times to answer the husbandmans paines But nature is there so little beholding to Art or Industry that the various shew vpon bankes the shady groues the greene meadowes hanging hilles and fields fit for Corne if they were manured doe seeme to be angry with their Inhabitants for suffering all to grow wild and harbarous through their owne negligence 5 This Country in Ptolemies dayes was wholly possessed by the Volutij Darni Robogdji and Erdini who branched and spred themselues into the seuerall parts that Island 6 The people of this Prouince were accustomed in controuersies and solemne protestations to sweare by S. Patrickes Staffe which oath they feared more to breake then if they had sworne by the holy Euangelist Their ancient custome in making their King was this A white Cow was taken which the King must kill and seeth the same in water whole then must he bathe himselfe therein starke naked and sitting in the Cawdron wherein it was sod accompanied with his people round about him he and they vsed to eat the flesh and drinke the broath wherein he sate without cup or dish or vse of hand How farre these prescriptions and customes were different from the conformities of other ciuill Monarchies we may well perceiue by these and other like obseruations of those grosse times and as yet they are more barbarous then is any other part of the Island besides 7 Historians relating of Ireland tell of seuerall Islands in the seuerall Prouinces some full of Angels some full of Deuils some for male onely some for female some where none may liue some where none can die and such effects of trees stones and waters that a man but of easie conceit may well esteeme them as heedlesse as vncertaine So also S. Patrickes Purgatorie a thing of much note in the Tract of this Prouince is a vault or narrow caue in the ground 〈…〉 called Erne Liffer much spoken of by reason of I wot not what fearefull walking spirits and dreadfull apparitions or rather some religious horrour which as some ridiculously dreame was digd by Vlysses when he went downe to parley with those in hell This is the caue which the Inhabitants in these dayes call â—llanuâ— Frugadory that is The Isle of Purgatory and S. Patricks Pargatory for some persons lesse deuout then credulous affirme that S. Patricke or rather Patricius Secundus an holy Abbot of that name labouring the conuersion of the people of this Prouince and much inforcing the life to come they replied contemptuously vnto him that vnlesse they saw proofes of those joyes and paines he preached they would not lose the possession of their present pleasures in hope or feare of things to come they wist not when Whereupon as they say he obtained at Gods hands by earnest prayer that the punishments and torments which the godlesse are to suffer after this life might be there presented to the eye that so he might more easily root out the sinnes and Heathenish errours that stucke so fast in the hearts of the Irish But touching the credit hereof although common fame and some records doe vtter it I neither will vrge the beliefe nor regard seeing it is no Article of our Creed 8 Matters memorable within this Prouince are these first that the Bishops of Ireland were wont to be consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury in regard of the 〈◊〉 which they had in this Country vntill such time as Iohn Papâ—â—â— a Cardinall was sent thither from Popâ— Eugenius the fourth to reforme Ecclesiasticall discipline in this Iland which 〈…〉 so looâ—â— that there were translations and pluralities of Bishops according to the 〈◊〉 and pleasure of the Metropolitane Also that the Irish-men were accustomed to leaue and forsake 〈◊〉 wedded wiues at their owne free willes whereof Lanfrancke Archbishop of Canterbury complained vnto Theraeluaâ— a King of Ireland And had not this Nation beene corrupted with this vice euen vnto these our dayes both the right of lineall succession had beene more certaine among them and the Gentry and Comminaltie had not in such cruelties imbrued themselues with such effusion of their owne kindreds bloud about their inheritances and legitimation 9 The principall place in this Tract is Armagh neere vnto the Riuer Kalin which albeit it maketh a poore shew is the Archiepiscopall See and Metropolitane of the whole Island Before Saint Patricke had built there a faire Citie for site forme quantitie and compasse modelled out as he saith by the appointment and direction of Angels this place was named Drumfalrch the Irish tell much that it receiued the name of Queene Armacha but the better opinions are that it is the same which Bede calleth Dearmach and out of the Scotish and Irish language interpreteth it The Field of Oakes Here as S. Bernard writeth S. Patricke the Apostle of Ireland ruled in his life time and rested after death in honor of whom it was of such venerable estimation in old time that not onely Bishops and Priests but Kings also and Princes were in generall subiect to the Metropolitane thereof in all obedience and to his gouernment alone Among the Archbishops of this Prouince S. Malachy is famoused who first prohibited Priests marriage in Ireland and as S. Bernard saith who wrote his life at large borrowed no more of the natiue barbarousnesse of that Country then Sea-fishes doe saltnesse of the Seas Also Richard Fitz Ralf commonly called Armachanus is of famous memory who turning the edge of his stile about the yeare 1355. began to oppose his opinion against the Order of Mendicant Friers as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging The chiefe Fort in this Tract is Enis Kelling defended by the Rebels in the yeare 1593 and wonne by Dowdall a most valiant Captaine neere vnto which is a great downfall of water termed The Salmon Leape of which there is a common speech currant among the Inhabitants that it was once firme ground very populous and well husbanded with tillage till it was suddenly ouer flowne with waters and turned into a Lake for some filthy abominable acts of the people against Nature committed with beasts 10 The places of Religion sequestred from other worldly seruices and consecrated to holy purposes erected in this Prouince were The Abbey which sheweth it selfe at Donegal The Monastery of Derie where the Irish Rebell Shane O-Nâ—al receiued such an ouerthrow by Edward Randolph renowned for his seruice in the behalfe of his Country that he could neuer after recouer the losse he sustained at that time The Monastery neere vnto the Riuer Laffer The famous Monastery at the Bay of Knockfergus of the same institution name and order as was that ancient Abbey in England neere vnto Chester called Danchor Also Mellifont Abbey founded by Donald a King of Vriel and much commended by S Bernard And lastly the most renowned Monastery built at Armagh in the yeare of our Saluation 610. out of which very many Monasteries were afterwards propagate both in Britaine and Ireland These places were farre and neere frequented and sought vnto by great confluences of Pilgrims till Time proued their deuotions to be erronious and the pure light of the word reuealed opening the eyes of their vnderstanding hath taught them to shake off the shame of such Superstitions 11 That the people of this County might be kept within the bounds of their dutie this Prouince hath beene secured with fiftie sixe Castles and Forts and for trade of commerce nine Market-Townes appointed being diuided into these Counties ensuing Counties Dunghall or Tyr-connell Vpper Tyrone Nether Tyrone Fermanagh Canan Monaghan Colrane Autrim Downe Armagh Lough FINIS The Table to find the Maps as appeareth by folio ENgland Scotland and Ireland 1 England 2 Kent 3 Sussex 4 Surrey 5 Southhampton 6 The Isle of Wight 7 Dorcetshire 8 Deuon-shire 9 Cornewall 10 Somersetshire 11 Wiltshire 12 Barkeshire 13 Middlesex 14 Essex Countie 15 Suffolke 16 Norfolke 17 Cambridgeshire 18 Hartfordshire 19 Bedfordshire 20 Buckinghamshire 21 Oxfordshire 22 Glocestershire 23 Merefordshire 24 Worcestershire 25 Warwickeshire 26 Northamptonshire 27 Huntingtonshire 28 Rutlandshire 29 Leicestershire 30 Lincolneshire 31 Nottinghamshire 32 Darbishire 33 Staffordshire 34 Shropshire 35 Chester 36 Lancashire 37 Yorkeshire 38 The Bishopricke of Durham 39 Westmorland Cumberland 40 Northumberland 41 The Isle of Man 42 Holy 〈…〉 Wales 44 Pembrokeshire 45 Radnor Breknock Cardigan and Caâ—rmarden described 46 Glamorganshire 47 Monmouthshire 48 Montgomery c. 49 Denbigh and Flint described 50 Anglesey and Carnarâ—an 51 The Kingdome of Scotland 52 The Southyart of Scotland 53 The Southern part of Scotland 54 The Easterne part of Scotland 55 Part of Scotland Stranauern 56 The Isles of Hebrides 57 Cathanes and Orknay 58 Ireland Described 59 Mounster 60 Leinster 61 Connaught 62 Vlster 〈◊〉 MIDIA
betwixt whom are extended thirtie-foure miles The broadest part is from Awfold Southward to Thamisis by Stanes and them asunder twentie two the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelue miles 3 The Heauens breathing ayre in this Shire is most sweet and delectable so that for the same cause many royall Palaces of our Princes are therein seated and the Countrey better stored with game then with graine insomuch that this Countie is by some men compared vnto a home-spunne freeze cloth with a costly faire lift for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itselfe And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corne and Pasturage especially in Hâ—â—esdale and towards the Riuer of Thamisis 4 In this Shire the Regni an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie were seated whom he brancheth further thorow Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans gouernment when the Land was left to the will of Inuaders the South-Saxons vnder Ella here erected their Kingdome which with the first was raised and soonest found end From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suth-rey as seated vpon the South of the Riuer and now by contraction is called Surrey 5 And albeit the Countie is barren of Cities or Townes of great estate yet is she stored with many Princely Houses yea and fiue of his Majesties so magnificently built that of some she may well say no Shire hath none such as is None-such indeed And were not Richmond a fatall place of Englands best Princes it might in esteeme be ranked with the richest for therein died the great Conquerour of France King Edward the Third the beautifull Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth Emperour and intirely beloued wife to King Richard the Second the most wise Prince King Henry the Seuenth and the rarest of her Sexe the Mirrour of Princes Queene Elizabeth the worlds loue and Subiects joy 6 At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his vntimely end and at Lambeth the hardre Canute and last of the Danish Kings died among his Cuppes But as these places were fatall for the last breath of these Princes so other in this Countie haue beene graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarkes for in Chertsâ—y Abbey King Henry the Sixth who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London was first interred without all funerall pompe but for his holy life was imputed a Saint and lastly translated and intombed at Windsore At Kingston likewise stood the Chaire of Maiestic wherein Athelstan Edwin and Ethelred sate at their Coronation and first receiued their Seepter of Imperiall Power Guildforâ— likewise hath beene farre greater then now it is when the Place of our English-Saxon Kingâ— was therein set And seeing it is the midst of the Shire the Graduation from hence shall be obserued where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples 7 Neither can we account Okam and Ripley two small Villages the least in this Shire which haue brought forth the well knowne men William de Okam that deepe Philosopher and admirable Scholar and George de Ripley the rung leader of our Alchymists and mysticall impostors both of them borne in this Countie and very neere together But why speake I of these sith a place neerer to sight and greater for fame euen Lambeth is the High Seat of Ecclesiasticall Gouernment Pietie and Learning and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops the Metropolitanâ— of England First erected by Archbishop Daldwin and euer since hath beene the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church who in a long succession euen from Anno 596 haue continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches sterne Richard by Gods prouidence Lord Archbishop of that See a most faithfull and prudent Counsellor vnto King IAMES and a most learned and prouident Guide of our most flourishing Church whose gracious fauour vndeseruedly conferred vpon me hath beene a great encouragement to these my poore endeuours 8 Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest were Wembledon where when the fulnesse of prosperitie burst forth into Ciuill Dissensions among the Saxons a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheauâ—in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent wherein he was discomfited and two of his principall Leaders slaine about the yeare of Christ 560. and three hundred thirtie three yeares after King Elfred with a small power ouercame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this Countie which somewhat quelled the courage of his sauage enemy 9 Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the deuotion of Princes and set apart ffom publike vses to Gods Diuine Seruice and their owne Saluation as then was taught the best in account were Sbene Chertsey Merton Newarke Rygate Wauerley Horsleg and in Southwarke Bermundsey and S. Maries These all flourished with increase till the ripeâ—esse of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste vnto King HENRY the Eight that in beating the boughes he brake downe body and all ruinating those houses and seazing their rich possessions into his owne hands So jealous is GOD of his honour and so great vengeance followeth the sinne of Idolatrie HANT-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. HANT-SHIRE lying vpon the West of England Is bordered vpon the North by Barkshire vpon the East with Surrey and Sussex vpon the South with the British Seas and I le of Wight and vpon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shires 2 The length thereof from Blackwater in the North vpon Surrey vnto Bascomb in the South vpon the Sea extended in a right line is fiftie foure English miles and the breadth drawne from Peters-field in the East vnto Tidworth in the West and confines of Wilt-shire is little lesse then thirtie miles the whole Circumference about one hundred fiftie and fiue miles 3 The Aire is temperate though somewhat thicke by reason of the Seas and the many Riuers that thorow the Shire doe fall whose plentie of fish and fruitfull increase doe manifoldly redeeme the harmes which they make 4 The Soile is rich for Corne and Cattle pleasant for pasturage and plenteous for woods in a word in all commodities either for Sea or Land blessed and happy 5 Hauens it hath and those commodious both to let in and to loose out Ships of great burthen in trade of Merchandise or other imployments whereof Portsmouth Tichfield Hamble and South-hampton are chiefe besides many other creeks that open their bosomes into those Seas and the Coast strengthned with many strong Castles such as Hurst Calshot South-hampton S. Andrewes Worth Porchester and the South Castle besides other Bulwarkes or Blockhouses that secure the Country and further in the Land as Malwood Winchester and Odiam so strong that in the time of King Iohn thirteene English-men onely defended the Fort for fifteene dayes against Lewis of France that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly 6 Anciently it was possest vpon the North by the
passe ouer and to smoother farre greater exployts of the Britaines which notwithstanding long in these parts they could not doe for the wrongs of the Icenians growing intolerable who by the Romane Souldiers were put out of their rightfull possessions their Princes accounted no better then Slaues and their Queene whipped in most ignominious manner vnder Boduo they wrought their reuenge as in the History Christ assisting shall be further related Next to these Icenians were the Saxons that got their footing into these parts and of them this with Norfolke Cambridge shire and the I le of Ely was made their East-Angles Kingdome though as it seemeth euer in subiection either to the Mercians or to the Kings of Kent whose off-spring ending in S Edmund the Martyr after the Danes had laid it most desolate Edward the Elder subdued it vnto his West-Saxons Monarchy and that likewise ending in King Edward the Confessor many Noble Normans got their possessions in these parts whose off-spring are plenteously replenished in this Shire to this day 5 The commodities of this Shire are many and great whereof the chiefest consisteth in Corne in Cattle Cloth Pasturage Woods Sea-fish and Fowle and as Abbo Floricensis hath depainted this Countie is of a greene and passing fresh hue pleasantly replenished with Orchards Gardens and Grouesâ— thus he described it aboue six hundred yeares since and now we finde as he hath said to which we may adde their gaine from the Paâ—le whose Cheeses are traded not onely thorowout England but into Germany France and Spaine and are highly commended by Pantaleon the Physitian both for colour and taste 6 And had Ipswich the onely eye of this Shire beene as fortunate in her Surname as she is blessed with Commerce and buildings she might 〈◊〉 haue borne the title of a Citie neither ranked in the 〈…〉 and seat doth equall most places of the Land beâ—â—◠〈…〉 about both by a Rampire of earth mounted along her North and West parts and places of entrance where gates haue stood which no doubt by the Danes were cast downe in the yeare of Iesus Christ 991. when they sacked with spoyle all these Sea-coasts and againe in the yeare one thousand laid the streets desolate and the houses on heapes yet afterwards recouering both breath and beautie her buildings from Stâ—ke-Church in the South to Saint Margarets in the North now containe 19â—0 paces and from S Helens in the East to S. Matthewes Church in the West are no lesse then 2120. full of streets plenteously inhabited wherein are twelue Parish-Churches seated besides them suppressed such were Christ-Church S Georges S. Iames the White the Blacke and Gray Fryers The Site of this Towne is remoued from the Equator vnto the degree 52. 25 minutes and by Mercators obseruation from the first West points 22. degrees 9 minutes and is yearely gouerned by two Bailiffes and ten Port-men all wearing Scarlet with twenty-foure of their Common-Councell in purple a Recorder a Towne-Clerke fiue Sergeants whereof one is for the Admiraltie a Beadle and Common Cryer all in blew with the Townes Armes on their Sleeue The other Eye of this shire is S. Edmundâ—bury By Abbo the Royall Towne wherein at the day-breake of the Saxons conuersion Sigebert King of the East-Angles founded a Christian Church and vpon the occasion of King Edmounds buriall who at Hoxon was shot to death hath beene euer since called S Edmunds-bury where was built to his honour one of the fairest Monasteries in the world begun by King Canute much affrighted with the seeming appearance of that Martyrs Ghost who to expiate the Sacrilegious impietie of his Father Suenus enriched the place with many endowments and offred vp his owne Crowne vpon the 〈◊〉 Martyrs Tombe For the beautie and buildings of this Abbey and Towne let Leyland for me declare 〈…〉 finely seated so delicately vpon the easie ascent of an hill 〈…〉 stately Abbey either for reuenewes or incomparable 〈…〉 then a Monastery so many Gates for entrance and some of them brasse so many Towers and a most glorious Church vpon which attend three others standing all in the same Church-yard all of them passing fine and of a curious workmanship Whose ruines lie in the dust lamenting their fall mouing the beholders to pietie their case Neere vnto this Towne a great Battle was fought by Robert Bossu Earle of Leicester against his Soueraigne King Henry the second but was worthily ouercome by Richard Lucy the Kings high Iustice himselfe and wife taken with many Flemings and Englishmen slaine 7 Other places worthy of remembrance this Countie affords such is Exâ—ing in the West formerly famous for the birth of S. Andrey daughter to King Anna one of the three names of the Shires diuision Rendlâ—sham in the East where Redwald the first Christian in this Kingdome held his Court and Hadley in her South where Guthrum the Dane whom Elfred baptized was buried And things of stranger note are the limits of the East-Angles Territories running along New-market heath vulgarly called the Diuels-ditch the like fable is formally told by Nubrigensis that at Wulpet in the heart of this Shire two greene boyes of Satyres kinde arose out of the ground from the Antipodes beleeue it if you will and Ralfe Coggeshall in the Monuments of Câ—lâ—hester declareth that a Fish in all parts like a man was taken neere Orford and for sixe moneths was kept in the Castle whence after he escaped againe to the Sea As strange but most true was a crop of Pease that without tillage or sowing grew in the Rockes betwixt this Orford and Aldebrough in the yeare 1555 when by vnseasonable weather a great dearth was in the Land there in August were gathered aboue one hundred Quarters and in blossoming remained as many more where neuer grasse grew or earth euer seene but hard solide Rockes three yards deepe vnder their rootes 8 Places separated from common vse and deuoted to God and his seruice by religious Princes were at S. Edmunds Ipswich Ikleworth Blithborow Clare Iaeston Burgh Castle wherein Sigebert King of the East-Angles entered the profession of a Monke but was thence forced by his people to fight against the Mercians in which Battle he was slaine And Dunwich where Foelix founded his Episcopall See These with many others in this Countie were suppressed in the fall of the Monasteries and their Reuenewes assumed by King Henry the Eight NORTHFOLKE CHAPTER XVII NORTHFOLKE is an Iland inclining to an ouall forme closed on the South part with the Riuers of Waueney and the lâ—sser Ouse which diuides it from Suffolke On the East and North with the Germane Ocean on the West toward Cambridge-shire with some branches of the greater Ouse toward Lincolne-shire with that part of the neue which passeth from Wisbitch into the Washes It containeth in length from Yarmouth to Wisbitch about fiftie miles In breadth from Thetford to Wels about thirtie The whole Circuit is about two hundred fortie two miles The Name ariseth from the
three Arch-Flamins whose seates were at London Caerlion and Yorke all of them conuerted by King Lucius into Christian Bishops Sees let vs onely insist vpon the three last by the same King appointed to be Metropolitanes ouer the rest among whom London is said to be chiefe whos 's first Christian Arch-bishop was Thean the builder of S. Peters Church in Cornehill for his Cathedrall as by an ancient Table there lately hanging was affirmed and tradition to this day doth hold Our British Historians doe bring a succession of fifteene Arch-bishops to haue sate from his time vnto the comming of the Saxons whose last was Vodius slaine by King Vortiger for reprehending his heathenish marriage with Râ—wâ—n the Daugher of Hengist At what time began the misery of the Land and of holy Religion both which they layd wast vnder their prophane feete vntill Ethelbert of Kent the first Christian Saxon King aduanced Christainitie Augustine to the Arch-bishopricke of Canterbury when London vnder Melitus became subiect to that See 6 At Caerlion vpon Vske in the time of great Arthur sate Dubritius a man excellently learned and of an holy conuersation he had sate Bishop of Landaffe a long time and with Germanus and Lupus two French Bishops greatly impugned the Pelagian Heresie infecting at that time the Iland very farre whose fame and integritie was such that he was made Arch-bishop of all Wales but growne very old he resigned the same vnto Dauia his Disciple a man of greater birth but greater austeritie of life who by consent of King Arthur remoued his Arch-bishops See vnto Meneuia a place very solitary and meete for meditation the miracles of the man which are said to be many changed both the name of the place into his owne and robbed Caerlion of her Archiepiscopall seate This See of S Dauids as in an ancient Register belonging to that Church is recorded had seauen Bishops Suffraganes subiect vnto it which were Exceter Bathe He eford Landaffe Bangor S. Asaph and â—eâ—nes in Ireland notwithstanding eyther for want of Pall carried into Britanny by Arch-bishop Samâ—son in a dangerous infection of sicknesse either by pouertie or negligence it lost that Iurisdiction and in the dayes of King Henry the first became subiect to the See of Canterbury 7 Yorke hath had better successe then eyther of the former in retayning her originall honour though much impaired in her circuit challenging to haue beene some time Metropolitane ouer all the Bishops in Scotland and although it was made equall in honour and power with Canterbury by Pope Gregory as Beda relateth and had twelue Suffragan Bishoprickes that owed obedience onely foure now acknowledge Yorke their Metropolitane but Canterbury the Superiour for William the Conquerour thinking it dangerous to haue two in like authoritie least the one should set on his Crowne and the other strike it off left Yorke to be a Primate but Canterbury onely the Prinâ—â—â— of all England 8 The Lichfield was made an Archiepiscopall See by Pope Hadrian the first at the suit of Offa the great King of Mercia is manifested by Mathew of Westminster vnto whose Iurisdiction were assigned the Bishoprickes of Winchester Hereford Leicester Sidnacester Helmâ—am and Dunwich and whose first and last bishop was Aldwin That Winchester also had intended an Archiepiscopall Pall the same Author recordeth when Henry Bloys of the bloud royall greatly contended with the Arch bishop of Canterbury for superioritie vnder the pretence of being Cardinall de latere to him an Archiepiscopall Pall was sent with power and authoritie ouer seauen Churches but he dying before that the designe was done the See of Winchester remained in subiection to Canterbury And that long before the See of Dorchester by Oxford had the Iurisdiction of an Arch-bishop is apparant by those Prouinces that were vnder his Diocesse which were Winchester Oxford Lincolne Salisbury Bâ—estow Wells Lichfield Chester and Excester and the first Bishop of this great circuit Berinuâ— was called the Apostle and Bishop of the West Saxons which in his next successor was diuided into two parts Winchester and Dorchester and not long after into Lichfield Sidnacester and Legecester and lastly the See remoued from Dorchester to Lincolne as now it is And thus farre for the diuision of this Realme both Politicke and Ecclesiasticke as it hath stood and stands at this day 9 But the whole Ilands diuision by most certaine Record was anciently made when Iulius Agricâ—la drew a trench or fortification vpon that narrow space of ground betwixt Edenbrough Frith and Dunbretton Bay making the Southerne part a Prouince vnto the Romane Empire Afterwards Hadrian the Emperour seeing perhaps the Prouince too spacious to be well gouerned without great expense drew backe these limits almost fourescore miles shotter euen to the mouth of the Riuer Tyne whence he fortified with a wall of admirable worke vnto Carlile which stood the Lands border while it stood as a Romane Prouince yet the conquering Saxons did spread againe ouer those bounds and as seemeth enlarged their gouernment to that first Tract as by this inscription in a Stone Crosse standing vpon a Bridge ouer the water of Frith appeareth I am a free March as Passengers may ken To Scots to Britaines and to Englishmen 10 But afterward William the Conquerour and Malcolme King of Scotland falling to an agreement for their limits arreared a Crosse vpon Stanemore where on the one side the portraiture and Armes of the King of England was sculptured and of the King of Scots on the other a piece whereof is yet remaining there neere to the Spittle thence called the Rev-Crosse there erected to be a Meare-stone to either Kingdome His successors also abolished the two partitions in the West whereby the Welsh became one Nation and Kingdome with the English It is also said that King Stephen to purchase friendship with the Scottish Nation gaue vnto their King the Countie of Cumberland who with it held both Westmorland and Northumberland but as Newbrigensis writeth he restored them to King Henry the second wisely considering his great power and right to those parts KENT CHAPTER III. KENT the first Prouince appearing in the South of this Kingdome is bounded vpon the North with the famous Riuer Thamisis on the East with the Germane Ocean on the South with Sussex and the narrow Seas and vpon the West and Sussex and Surrey The length thereof extended from Langley in the West vnto Ramsgate Eastward in the Isle of Thanet is about 53. English miles From Rother in the South vnto the Isle of Graine Northward the bredth is not much aboue 26. and the whole circumference about 160. miles 2 Informe it somewhat resembleth the head of a hammer or Battle-axe and lyeth corner-wise into the Sea by Strabo Caesar Diadorus and Ptolemie called Cantium of Cant or Angle or Corner either of Caine a British word which signifieth Bushes or Woods whereof that Countie in those former times was plentifully stored 3 The ayre though not very
thereof it scarce giues place to any Citie of England and doth worthily deserue the Saxon name Bright-stad whose pleasantnesse is the more by reason that the Riuer Auon scowres through the midst of it which together with the benefit of Sewes vnder all the streets cleares the Citie of all noysome filth and vncleannesse It is not wholly seated in this Countie of Sommerset but one part thereof in Gloucestershire but because it is an entire Countie of it selfe it denyes subiection vnto eyther hauing for its owne gouernment both a Bishop with a well furnished Colledge and a Major with a competent assistance of Aldermen and other Officers for Ciuill affaires 8 This Prouince hath beene the Theater of many Tragicall euents and bloudy Battels the Danes did grieuously afflict Porlock by cruell Piracies in the yeare eight hundred eightâ—e sixe Yet neere vnto Pen a little village â—eighbouring vpon North Cadbury Edmund surnamed Iron-side gaue them a notable soyle as he was pursuing Caâ—â—tus from place to place for vsurping the Crowne of England And Keniwalth a West-Saxon in the same place had such a day against the â—ritaines that they euer after stood in awe of the English-Saxons prowesse Marianus relateth that not farre from Bridge-water as the Dâ—â—es were stragling abroad Ealstan Bishop of Sherbourne did so foyle their Forces in the yeare 845 as their minds were much discomfited and their powers vtterly disabled Niâ—ius also writeth that King Arthur did so defeat the English-Saxons in a battell at Cadbury that it deserued to be made perpetuously memorable Neither is Moâ—s Badonicus now Bannesdowne lesse famous for Arthurs victories And King Elfred in another battell not farre from hence gaue the Danes such an ouerthrow as he forced them to submission and induced Godrus their King to become a Christian himselfe being God-father to him at the â—ont So happie is this Region and so beholding to Nature and Art for her strengths and fortifications as she hath alwayes beeene able to defend her selfe and offend her enemies 9 Neither hath it beene lesse honoured with beauteous houses consecrated to Religion such was that of Black-Charons at Barelinch in the first limit of this Shire Westward and King Athelstan built a Monastery in an Iland called Muchelney that is to say the great Iland which is betweene the Riuers Iuel and Pedred running together where the defaced walles and ruines thereof are yet to be seene King Henry the third also erected a Nunnery at Witham which was afterwards the first house of the Carthusian Monkes in England as Hinâ—â—n not far off was the second But aboue all other for antiquitie glory and beautie was the Abbey of Glasteâ—bury whose beginning is fetcht euen from Ioseph of A â—â—athea which Deni Bishop of S. Dauids repaired being fallen to ruine and King Inas lastly builded a fayre and stately Church in this Monastery though it be now made euen with the ground the ruines onely shewing how great and magnificant a Seat it hath anciently beene which seuerall houses were thus beautified by bounteous Princes for religious purposes and to retire the mind from worldly seruices though blinded times and guides diuerted them to superstitious and lewd abuses 10 Other memorable places are these Camalâ—t a very steepe hill hard to be ascended which appeares to haue beene a worke of the Romans by diuers Coynes digd vp there on the top whereof are seene the lineaments of a large and ancient Castle which the Inhabitants report to haue beene the Palace of King Arthur Ilchester which at the comming of the Normans was so populouâ— that it had in it an hundred and seuen Burgesâ—es and it appeares to be of great antiquitie by the Romane Caesars Coynes oftentimes sound there The Church yard of Aualonia or Glastenbury whâ—re King Arthurs Sepulcher was searcht for by the command of King Henry the second which was found vnder a stone with an Inscription vpon it fastned almost nine foote in the ground Also Dunstere where as is reported a great Lady obtained of her husband so much Pasture ground in common by the Towne side for the good and benefit of the Inhabitants as she was able in a whole day to goe about bare-foote VVILT-SHIRE CHAPTER XII VVILT-SHIRE is enclosed vpon the Northwith Glocester-shire vpon the East is bounded with Bark-shire vpon the South with Dorset and Hampshire and vpon the West is confronted against partly by Glocester and the rest by Somerset shires 2 The forme thereof â—s both long and broad for from Inglesham vpon Thamisis in the North to Burgat Damarum in the South are thirtie nine miles the broadest part is from Buâ—termer Eastward to the Shire-stones in the West being twentie nine the whole in Circumference is one hundred thirtie nine miles 3 For Ayre it is seated in a temperate Climate both sweet pleasant and wholesome and for soile saith Iohn of Sarisbury is exceeding fertile and plentifull yea and that with vaâ—ietie 4 The Northerne part which they call North Wilt shire riseth vp into delectable hilles attired with large Woods and watered with cleare Riuers whereof Isis is one which soone becommeth the most famous in the Land The South part is more euen yeelding abundently grasse and corne and is made the more fruitfull by the Riuers Wily Adder and Auâ—n The midst of this Countie is most plaine and thereby is knowne and commonly called Salesbury 〈◊〉 and lie so leuall indeed that it doth limit the Horizon or hardly can a man see from the one side to the other These Plaines grase an infinite number of sheepe whose fleeces and flesh bring in an yearely reuenew to their owners 5 Anciently this Countie was possessed by the Belga who are seated by Ptolemie in Hampshire Somerset shire and in this Tract and they as it seemeth by Casar were of the Belga in Gaul These as some hold were subdued by Vespasian Lieutenant of the second Legion under Claudius when the foundations of his future greatnesse were in these parts first laid by his many Victories ouer the Britaines And herein surely the Romans seated for besides Yanâ—sburie Trench by Tradition held to be his in many other Forts in this Shire the Tract of their footing hath beene left and the stamped Coines of their Emperours found an apparent testimony of their abode 6 After them the West-Saxons made it a part of their Kingdome whole border was Auon as witnesseth Athelward though the Mercians many times encroched vpon them whereby many great Battles as Malmesbury tels vs betwixt them were fought when in the young yeares of their Heptarchie each sought to enlarge his by the lessening of the next but growne vnto more ripenesse they assigned their limits by a great and long ditch crossing thorow the middest of these Plaines which for the wonder thereof is supposed by the vulgar to be the worke of the Deuill and is called of all Wansdike vndoubtedly of Woden the Saxons Ancestor and great reputed God where a little village yet standeth and
Henry the first most stately beautified with a rich Monastery and strong Castle where in the Collegiate Church of the Abbey himselfe and Queene who lay both veiled and crowned with their daughter Maud the Empresse called the Lady of England were interred as the priuate History of the place auoucheth though others bestow the bodies of these two Queenes else-where The Castle King Henry the second razed to the ground because it was the refuge for the followers of King Stephen From whence the North-pole is raised in Latitude 51 degrees and 40 minutes and in Longitude from the first West-point obserued by Mercator 19 degrees and 35. minutes 7 A Castle and Towne of greater strength and antiquitie was Wallingford by Antonie and Ptolemie called Galtena the chiefest Citie of the Attribatians whose large circuit and strong fortifications shew plainly that it was a place of the Romans abode and since in a conceiued safetie hath made many very bold especially when the sparkes of Englands ciuill dissentions were forced to flame in case of the Crowne betwixt Maud the Empresse and King Stephen whither her selfe and associates resorted as their surest defence 8 But of farre greater magnificence and state is the Castle of Windsor a most Princely Palace and Mansion of his Maiestie I will not with Ieffrey affirme it to be built by King Arthur but with better authoritie say it was so thirsted after by the Conquerour that by a composition with the Abbat of Westminster whose then it was he made it to be the Kings Possession as a Place besides the pleasures very commodious to entertaine the King In this Castle that victorious Prince King Edward the third was borne and herein after he had subdued the French and Scots held he at one and the same time as his Prisoners Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland Neither was it euer graced with greater Maiestie then by the institution of the most honourable Order of the Garter a signall Ornament of Martiall Prowesse the inuention thereof some ascribe to be from a Garter falling from his Queene or rather from Ioan Countesse of Salisbury a Lady of an incomparable beautie as she danced before him whereat the by-standers smâ—â—ing he gaue the impresse to checke all euill conceits and in golden Letters imbelished the Garter with this French Posie HONI SOIT QVI MALY PENSE And yet that worthy Clarenceaux alledging the booke of the first institution findes the inuention to be more ancient as when King Richard the first warred against the Turkes Saracens Cypres and Acon he girt the legs of certaine choise Knights with a tache of leather which promised a future glory to the wearers The most Princely Chappell thereof is graced with the bodies of those two great Kings Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth whom the whole Kingdome was too little to containo the one of Lancaster the other of Yorke where they rest now vnited in one mould with a branch of both those Houses euen King Henry the eight who there lyeth also interred and rests in the Lord. 9 Other places of note in this Shire are Sinodum in the North and Watham in the East both of them places of the Romans residence as by their monyes these oftentimes found appeareth Neither was Sunning the least in this Tract that had beene the Seat of eight Bishops before the See was translated thence vnto Shirburne or that to Salisbury Wantage also is not wanting of honour in bringing to life that learned and most valiant King Ealfred the scourge of the Danes and great Monarch of the English And Finchhamsted for wonder inferiour to none where as our Writers doe witnesse that in the yeare a thousand one hundred a Well boyled vp with streames of bloud and fifteene dayes together continued that Spring whose waters made red all others where they came to the great amazement of the beholders 10 The riches and sweet seats that this Country affordeth made many deuout persons to shew their deuotions vnto true pietie in erecting places for Gods diuine seruice and their exemptions from all worldly businesse such were Abington Redding Bysham Bromehall Henâ—ey Hamme and Wallingford whose Vâ—tarie abusing the intents of their Founders ouerthrew both their owne Orders and places of professions all which were dissolued by Act of Parliament and giuen the King to dispose at his will MIDDLESEX CHAPTER XIIII MIDDLESEX so called in regard of the situation as seated betwixt the West-Saxons and East-Angles was sometimes together with Essex and Hartford-shire that part and portion which the East Saxons enioyed for their Kingdome it lyeth bordered vpon the North with Hartford shire vpon the West by Colne is seuered from Buckingham the South by Thamesis from Surrey and Kent and on the East from Essex by the Riuer Lea. 2 The length thereof extended from 〈◊〉 in the East to Morehall vpon Colne in the West is by measure nineteene English miles and from South 〈◊〉 in the North to his Majesties Mannour of Hampton-Court in the South are little aboue sixteene miles the whole Circumference extending to ninetie miles 3 In foâ—â—e it is almost square for ayre passing temperate for soile abundantly fertile and for pasturage and graine of all kindes yeelding the best so that the Wheat of this Countie hath serued a long time for the manchâ—t to our Princes Table 4 It lyeth seated in a vale most wholesome and rich hauing some hils also and them of good 〈◊〉 from whose tops the prospect of the whole is seene like vnto Zoar in Egypt or rather like a Paradise and Garden of God 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to Caesar were the Trinobants whom he nameth to be the most puissant in the Iland whose chiefe Citie and State yeelding him subiection made the whole with lesse losse to the Romans to beare the yoke of their owne bondage and to come in vnder termes of truce But when their forces in these parts were spent and the Empire shaken by intestine warres the Saxons setting their eyes vpon so faire a soile made their footing as sure herein which lastly with Hartford and Essex was the portion of the East-Saxons Kingdome 6 Fiue Princely Houses inheritable to the English Crowne are seated in this Shire which are Enfield Hanworth White-hall S. Iames and Hampton-Court a Citie rather in shew then the Palace of a Prince and for stately Port and gorgeous building not inferiour to any in Europe At Thistleworth once stood the Palace of Richard King of the Romans Earle of Cornewall which the Londâ—ner in a tumultuous broile burned to the ground many other stately Houses of our English Nobilitie Knights and Gentlemen as also of the worshipfull Citizens of London are in this Shire so sumptuously built and pleasantly seated as the like in the like circuit are no where else to be found Neere vnto Thamesis entrance into this Countie is kept the remembrance of Caesars entrance ouer Thamesis by the name of Coway-Stakes stucke fast in the bottome to
pleasantly seated hauing the Ouse running thorow the Towne in the middest and a faire Stone-bridge built ouer the same whereon are two Gates to locke and impeach the passage as occasion shall serue At the first entrance standeth S. Leonards Hospitall for Lazars and further inwards S. Iohns and S. Maries Churches within the Towne S. Pauls a most beautifull Church S. Cuthberis and S. Peters without the Towne standeth the Fryers S. Loyes Alhallowes and Caudwell Abbey not farre whence sometimes stood a Chappell vpon the Banke of Ouse wherein as Florilegus affirmeth the body of Offa the great Mercian King was interred but by the ouer-swelling of that Riuer was borne downe and swallowed vp whose Tombe of Lead as it were some phantasticall thing appeared often to them that seeke it not but to them that seeke it saith Rosse it is inuisible This Towne is gouerned yearely by a Mator two Bailiffes two Chamberlaines a Recorder a towne-Clerke and three Sergeants with Mases 8 A tale of vaine credit is reported of Dunstable that it was built to bridle the outragiousnesse of a theefe named Dun by King Henry the first but certaine it is the place was formerly held by the Romanes whose Legions there lay as appeareth by the Coines there vsually found which from Magmium are corruptly called Madning-money 9 Castles in this Shire are Woodhill Eaton Temsford and Amphill an honour now appertaining to the Crowne And places of Religion built by deuout persons but for Idolatrous Abuses againe abolished were at Bedford Harwood Helenflow Newenham Chicksand Wardon Woborne and Dunstable All these with their like felt the hand of Henry the Eight to lie so heauie vpon them that they were not able to sustaine the waight but were crushed to peices and fell to the ground 10 The Graduation of this Countie taken for the Shire-Towne is placed from the Equator in the degree of 52. and 30. minutes for Latitude and is remoued from the first West point of Longitude 20. degrees and 16. minutes BVCKINGHAM-SHIRE CHAPTER XXI BVCKINGHAM for the plentie of Beech-trees there growing and those in the elder times of the Saxons called Eucken may well be supposed from them to haue the name as afterwards the whole Shire had hers from this Towne Buckingham 2 In forme it somewhat resembleth a Lyon Rampant whose head or North-point toucheth the Counties of Northampton and Bedford whose backe or East-part is backed by Bedford and Hertford-shires his loines or South-borders rest vpon Bark shire and his breast the West side is butted vpon wholly by Oxford-shire The length thereof from Waisbury in the South to Bradfeild in her North are thirtie nine miles the breadth at the broadest from Ashridge in the East to 〈◊〉 wood Forrest in the West are eighteene the whole in Circumference one hundred thirtie 〈◊〉 miles 3 The ayre is passing good temperate and pleasant yeelding the body health and the minde content The soile is rich fat and fruitfull giuing abundance of Corne Grasse and Meate It is chiefly diuided into two parts by the Chiltren billes which run thorow this Shire in the middest and before timâ— where so postered with Beâ—â—h that they were altogether vnpassable and became a receptacle and refuge for theeues who daily endammaged the way-faring man for which cause 〈◊〉 Abbot of S. Aâ—baâ—s caused them to be cut downe since when those parts are paâ—â—able without any great incumbrances of trees from whose tops a large and most pleasing prospect is 〈◊〉 The Vale beneath is plaine and champion a clayie soile stiffe and tough but withall marueilous 〈◊〉 full naked of woods but abounding in medowes pastures and tillage and maintaining an infinite number of sheepe whose soft and fine fleeces are in great esteeme with the Turkes as farre as Asia 4 The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in this Shire were the Catlieuchlani mentioned by Ptolemie and them dispersed thorow the Tract of Bedford Hertford and this These yeelded themselues with the first to Caesar vnder the Romanes subiection whose ouer-worne Empire ending in Britaine the Saxons by strong hand attained this Prouince and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdome yet was it first subdued vnto them by Cherdike the West-Saxon whose memory is in part continued in the Towne Chersey vpon the West of this Countie where in a sharpe and bloudy battle he was Victor ouer the Britaines So also Cuthwulfe a West-Saxon at Alesbury in the yeare of Grace 592. ouer came the Britaines and bare downe all things before him yet no sooner was their Hepâ—archie wained and their Monarchie able to stand alone but that the Danes before their strength and growth was confirmed waxed vpon them and they not able in so weake a hand to hold fast that weight of greatnesse they had so grasped gaue place to their conquerours who did many harmes in this Prouince for in the yeare 914. the Danes furiously raged as farre as Brenwood where they destroyed the City Burgh the ancient seat of the Romanes afterwards a royall house of King Edward the Confessor which they vtterly destroyed 5 The Shire-Towne Buckingham fruitfully seated vpon the Riuer Ouse was fortified with a Rampire and Sconses on both bankes by King Edward the elder saith Marianus the Scotish Writer where in the heart of the Towne hath stood a strong Castle mounted vpon a high hill which long since was brought to the period of her estate now nothing remaining besides the signes that there she had stood The Riuer circulates this Towne on euery side that onely on the North excepted ouer which three faire stone-bridges lead and into which the springs of a Well run called S. Rumalds a child-saint borne at Kings-Sutton canonized and in the Church of this Towne enshrined with many conceited miracles and cures such was the happe of those times to produce Saints of all ages and sexes This Towne is gouerned by a Bayliffe and twelue principall Burgesses and is in the degree remoued from the first point of the West for Longitude 19. 33. scruples and the North-pole elenated in Latitude for the degree of 52. 18. scruples 6 A Towne of ancient note is Stony-Stratford the Romans Lactorodum being built vpon that ancient Causey-way which is called Watling-street where remaine the markes thereof euen vnto this day At this place Edward the elder stopped the passage of the Danes whiles he strengthened Torcester against them and herein King Edward the eldest since the Conquest reared a beautifull Crosse in memory of Eleanor his dead Queene as he did in euery place where her Corps rested from Herdby in Lincolne-shire till it was receiued and buried at Westminster 7 Places intended for Gods true worship built by deuout persons and sequestred from worldly imployments were at Launden Luffeld Bidlesden Bradwell Nothey Ankerne Missenden Tekeford Partrendune Ashridge and Alesburie Ashridge in great repute for the bloud supposed out of Christs sides brought out of Germany by Henry the eldest sonne of Richard King of the Romanes and Earle
the head of that honour on which in other Shires many Knights Fees and sixteene in this attended Here Dauid Earle of this and Arguise father of Isabel de Brus founded the Hospitall of S. Iohn Baptist And Loâ—â—tote here vpon the Fee of Eustace the Vicount built to the honour of the blessed Virgin the Priory of Blacke Channons valued at the Suppression 232 l. 7. s. ob Here at the North end was a house of Fryers and without the Towne at Hinchingbrooke a Cloister of Nunnes valued at 19. l. 9. s. 2. d. founded by the first William in place of S. Pandonia at Eltesley by him suppressed where neere the end of the last Henry the Family of the Cromwels began their Seat To this Shire-Towne and benefit of the neighbour Countries this Riuer was nauigable vntill the power of Grey a mynion of the time stopt that passage and with it all redresse eyther by Law or Parliament By Charter of King Iohn this Towne hath a peculiar Coroner profit by Toll and Custome Recorder Towne-Clerks and two Bayliffes elected annually for gouernment as at Parliament two Burgesses for aduise and assent and is Lord of it selfe in Fee-Farme The rest of the Hundred wherein this Shire-Towne lyeth is the East part of the County and of Hurst a Parish in the center of it named HVRSTINGSTON it was the Fee-farme of Ramsey Abbey which on a point of fertile land thrust out into the Fennes is therein situate founded in the yeare 969 to God our Lady and S. Benedicte by Farle Aylwin of the Royall bloud replenished with Monkes from Westbury by Oswold of Yorke and dedicated by Dâ—nstan of Canterburie Archbishops By Abbat Regâ—ald 1114 this Church was redified by Magnaâ—â—ll Earle of Essex not long after spoyled and by Henry the Third first of all the Norman Princes visited when wasted with the 〈◊〉 warres Regalis mensae Hospitalitas it abbreuiata fuit vt cum Abbatibus Clericis viris satis humilibus hospitia quaesunt prandia This Monastery the shrine of two martyred Kings Ethelbright and Ethelred and of Saint 〈◊〉 the Persian Bishop by humble pietie at first and pious charitie ascended such a pitch of worldly fortune that it transformed their Founder religious pouertie into their ruine the attribute of Raâ—â—y the rich for hauing made themselues Lords of 387. Hides of land whereof 〈◊〉 in this Shire so much as at an easie and vnder rent was at the Suppression valued at 1983 l 15 s 3. d q. but by account of this time annually amounts to 7000 〈◊〉 they then began to affect popular command and first inclosing that large circuit of land and water for in it lyeth the Mile-square Meere of Ramsey as a peculiar Seignory to them called the Balent or Bandy bounded as the Shire from Eâ—y and from Norman-Crosse with the Hundred Meere by Soueraigne Grant they enioyed regall libertie And then aspiring a step further to place in Parliament made Broughton the head of their Baroâ—e annexing to it in this Shire foure Knights Fees Thus in great glory it stood aboue 400. yeares vntill Henry the Eight amongst many other once bright Lamps of Learning and Religion in this State though then obscured with those blemishes to wealth and ease concomitant dissolued the house although Iohn Warboys then Abbot and his 60 blacke Monkes there maintained were of the first that vnder their hands and conuentuall Seale protested Quod Romanus Pontifex non habet maiorem aliquam Iurisdictionem collatam sibi à Deo in Regno Angliae quam quivis alius externus Episcopus A Cell to this rich Monastery was S. Iuces Priory built in that place of Slep by Earle Adelmus in the raigne of the last Edmund where the incorrupted body of S. Ius there once an Hermit in a vision reuealed was by Ednothus taken vp in his Robes Episcopall and dedicated in the presence of Siward Earle of this Countie and that Lady of renowned piety Ethelfleda to the sacred memory of this Persian Bishop Not farre from this is Somersham the gift of the Saxon Earle Brithnothus to the Church of Ely before his owne fatall expedition against the Danes It is the head of those fiue Townes of which the Soke is composed and was an house to the See of Ely well beautified by Iohn Stanley their Bishop but now by exchange is annexed to the Crowne As these so all the rest of this Hundred was the Churches land except Rippon Regis ancient Demaine To which Saple reserued Forrest adioyned and the greater Stiuecly giuen by the last Dauid Earle of Huntingdon in Fee to his three Seruants Sentlice Lakerutle and Camoys 8 NORMANS CROS the next Hundred taketh name of a Crosse aboue Stilton the place where in former ages this Diuision mustered their people whence Wapentake is deriued it had in it two religious houses the eldest in the confines of Newton and Chesterton neere the Riuer of Auon now Nene founded by the first Abbesse Kineburga the Daughter of Penda and Wife of Aelfred King of Northumberland West side a Trench where Ermin-street-way crossed ouer the Riuer by a Stone-bridge whose ruines are now drowned whence the Roman Towne there seaâ—ed on both sides tooke the name Durobriua as Traiectus Fluminis But this Nunnery as raised was also ruined by the Danes before the Conquest The other a Monastery of Cistertian blacke Monks erected in honour of the Virgin Mary by the second Simon Earle of Huntington at Saltry Iudeth the Land of a Lady of that name wife of Earle Waltheof daughter to Lambert Earle of Leâ—us Neece to the Conquerour by his Sister her Mother and Grand-mother to this Founder Malcome William Kings of Scots Earles of Hamingdon and Heires of this Lady strengthened by seuerall Charters this pious worke Many chiefe of that Line as the last Earle Dauid brother to King William as Isabel the wife of Robert dâ— Brus his Daughter heyre and most of the second branch her Progenie making here their Burials This house now leuell with the ground maintained besides the Abbot sixe Monkes and 22 Hindes and was at the Suppression valued at 199. l. 11. c. 8. d The Founders and Patrons of this Monastery were the Lords of the next place Connington first the seate of Turkillus Earle of the East-Angles that inuited Swayn from Denmarke to inuade this Land and who first squared out the vnbounded marishes of this part to the bordering Townes his rule of proportion allowing to euery Parish tantum de Maâ—isco quantum de sicca terra in bredth in which none sine licentia Domini might vel federe vel salcare but leauing most to inter-common by vicinage This Dane exiled when the rest of his Countreymen were by Edward Confessor his land here was giuen to Earle 〈◊〉 by whose eldest heire Matilda marryed to Dauid King of Scots it went along in that Male line vntill by death issuelesse of Iohn Earle of Chester and Huntingdon it fell in partage to his sister Iâ—abel de
Ocean all along pestered with inlets of salt waters and sands which are neither firme nor safe for trauellers as those in the South proued vnto King Iohn who matching North-ward from Northfolke against his disloyall Barons vpon those washes 〈…〉 and carriage by the sodaine returne of the Sea and sofenesse of the sands 5 Her Soile vpon the West and North is abundantly 〈◊〉 pleasant 〈…〉 pasturage areable and meadowing grounds the East and South fenny and 〈…〉 barren but for fowle and fish exceeding any other in the Realme wherein at some times and season of the yeare hath beene taken in nets in August at one draught aboue three thousand Mallards and other Fowles of the like kinde 6 The Shires commodities consist chiefly in Corne Cattle Fish Fowle Flax and Alablaster as also in a Plaister much esteemed of by the Romans for their workes of Imagery and whereof Plinie in his Naturall History maketh mention And the Astroites a precious stone Star-like pointed with fiue beames or rayes anciently esteemed for their vertue in victories vpon the South-west of this County neere Beuer are found not farre thence in our Fathers memory at Harlaxton was ploughed vp a brasen vessell wherein was inclosed a golden Helmet of an ancient fashion set with precious stones which was presented to Kathren of Spaine Wife and Dowager to King Henry the eight 7 This Shire triumpheth in the births of Beauclerke King Henry the first whom Selby brought forth and of King Henry the fourth at Bullingbrooke borne but may as iustly lament for the death of King Iohn herein poysoned by Sâ—non a Monke of Swynsted Abbey and of Queene Eleanor wife to King Edward the first the mirrour of wedlocke and loue to the Commons who at Hardby neere Bullingbrooke his birth place ended her life 8 Trade and commerce for prouision of life is vented thorow thirtie one Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Lincolne the Counties namer is chiefe by Ptolemie and Antonine called Lindum by Beda Linde-collma and by the Normans Nichol. Very ancient it is and hath beene more magnificall as by her many ouerturned ruines doth appeare and farre more populous as by Demesdayes Booke is seene where it is recorded that this Citie contained a thousand and seauen Mansions and nine hundred Burgesses with twelue Lage-men hauing Sac and Soc. And in the Normans time saith Malmesbury it was one of the best peopled Cities of England being a place for trafficke of Merchandize for all commerce by Land or Sea Herein King Edward the third ordained his Staple for the Mart of Wools Leather and Lead and no lesse then fiftie Parish Churches did beautifie the same but now containeth onely fifteene besides the Cathedrall Some ruines yet remaines both of Frieries and Nunneries who lye now buried in their owne ashes and the Citie conquered not by warre but by time and very age and yet hath she not escaped the calamitie of sword as in the time of the Saxons whence Arthur enforced their Host the like also did Edmund to the destroying Danes and by the Normans it suffered some dammage where King Stephen was vanquished and taken prisoner and againe by the third Henry that assaulted and wan it from his rebellious Barons By fire likewise it was fore defaced wherein not onely the buildings were consumed but withall many men and women in the violence thereof perished as also by an Earth-quake her foundation was much weakened and shaken wherein the faire Cathedrall Church dedicated to the Virgin of Virgins was rent in peeces The gouernment of this Citie is committed yearely to a Maior tow Sheriffes twelue Aldermen in Scarlet a Sword a Hat of Estate a Recorder Sword-bearer and foure Sergeants with Maces whose situation on a sleepe hill standeth for Longitude in the degree 20. 10. scruples the Pole eleuated for Latitude from the degree 53. and 50. scruples 9 Much hath beene the deuotion of Princes in building religious houses in this Countie as at Crowland Lincolne Markeby Leyborne Grenfeld Aluingham Newnersby Grymmysby Newsted Elsham Stayâ—feld Syxhyll Torkesey Bryggerd Thorneholme Nuncotton Fosse Heyings Axholme I le Goykewell S. Michaels neere Stamford Swynâ—shead Spalding Kirkested c. 10 Commotions in this Shire were raysed the eight and twentieth of King Henry the Eight where twentie thousand making insurrection violently sware certaine Lords and Gentlemen to their Articles But no sooner they heard of the Kings power comming but that they dispersed themselues and sued for pardon And againe in the third yeare of King Edward the Sixt in case of Inclosuâ—es Lincolne rose in seditious manner as did they of Cornwall Deuon-shire York-shire and Norfolke but after some flaughters of their chiefest men were reduced to former obedience NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXII NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE from Nottingham her chiefest Towne hath the name and that somewhat softned from the Saxons Snoddenzaham for the many Dennes or Caues wrought in her Rocks and vnder ground lyeth bordered vpon the North North west with York-shire vpon the East a good distance by Trent is parted froM and with Lincoln-shire altogether confined the South with Leicester-shire and the West by the Riuer Erwash is seperated from Darby-shire 2 For forme long and Ouall-wise doubling in length twice her bredth whose extreames are thus extended and distance obserued From Finingley North to Sleanford in the South are thirtie eight English miles her West part from Teuersall to Besthorp in the East are little more then nineteene whose circumference draweth much vpon one hundred and ten miles 3 The Ayre is good wholesome and delectable the Soile is rich sandy and clayie as by the names of that Counties diuisions may appeare and surely for Corne and Grasse so fruitfull that it secondeth any other in the Realme and for Water Woods and Canell Coales abundantly stored 4 Therein groweth a Stone softer then Alablaster but being burnt maketh a plaister harder then that of Paris wherewith they flower their vpper roomes for betwixt the Ioysts they lay onely long Bulrushes and thereon spread this Plaister which being throughly dry becomes most solide and hard so that it seemeth rather to be firme stone then mortar and is trod vpon without all danger In the West neere Worksop groweth plentie of Liquorice very delicious and good 5 More South in this Shire at Stoke in the Raigne of King Henry the seauenth a great battle was fought by Iohn De-la-Pole Earle of Lincolne which Richard the Vsurper had declared his heire apparant but Richard losing his life and De-la Pole his hopes in seeking here to set vp a Lambert fell downe himselfe and at Newarke after many troubles King Iohn got his peace with the end of his life 6 Trade and commerce for the Counties prouision is frequented in eight Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Nottingham is both the greatest and best a Towne seated most pleasant and delicate vpon a high hill for buildings stately and number of faire streets surpassing and surmounting many other Cities and for a spacious and most faire
and therein detained the space of nineteene yeares 8 Things of stranger note are the hot Water-springs bursting forth of the ground at Buxton where out of the Rocke within the compasse of eight yards nine springs arise eight of them warme but the ninth very cold These run from vnder a faire square building of free-stones and about three-score paces off receiue another hot spring from a Well inclosed with foure flat stones called Saint Annes neere vnto which another very cold spring bubled vp The report goeth among the by-dwellers that great cures by these waters haue beene done but daily experience sheweth that they are good for the stomacke and sinewes and very pleasant to bathe the body in Not farre thence is Elden hole whereof strange things haue beene told and this is confidently affirmed the waters that trickle from the top of that Caue which indeed is very spacious but of a low and narrow entrance doe congeale into stone and hang as ickles in the roofe Some of them were shewed at my being there which like vnto such as the frost congealeth were hollow within and grew Taper-wise towards their points very white and somewhat Crystall-like And seauen miles thence vpon a mounted hill standeth a Castle vnder which there is a hole or Caue in the ground of a marueilous capacitie which is commonly called The Deuils Arse in the Peake whereof Geruase of Tilbury hath told many pretie tales and others doe make it one of the wonders of our Land 9 As in other Counties the deuotions of the religious haue beene made apparent in the erection of places for Gods peculiar seruice so in this haue beene founded eight of that nature which were Dale Detelege Darby Repâ—on Bechif Graiâ—sley Fauerwell and Pollewerke whose peace and plentie stood secure from all danger till the blustering windes arising in the Raigne of King Henry the eight blew off the pinacles of their beauteous buildings and shooke asunder the reuenewes of those Foundations which neuer are like againe to be laid STAFFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXIIII STAFFORD-SHIRE whose situation is much about the middle of England meeteth vpon the North with Chesse-shire and Darby and that in a Triangle point where three stones are pitched for the bounds of these Shires it is parted from Darby shire on the East with Dowe and with Trent the South is confined with Warwicke and Worcester-shires and the West butteth against the Countie of Shrop-shire The forme thereof is somewhat Lozeng-like that is sharpe at both ends and broadest in the midst The length extending from North to South is by measure fortie foure miles and the bredth from East to West twenty seauen miles the whole in circumference one hundred and fortie miles 3 The ayre is good and very healthfull though ouer-sharpe in her North and Moreland where the snow lyeth long and the winde bloweth cold 4 The Soile in that part is barren of Corne because her hilles and Mores are no friends vnto Tillage the middle is more leuell but therewithall wooddie as well witnesseth that great one called the Cank But the South is most plenteous in Corne and Pasturage 5 Her ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII whom Ptolemie placeth in the Tract that containeth Shrop-shire Worcester-shire Chesse-shire and this all which were possessed by the Mercian-Saxons when their Heptarchy flourished And Tameworth in this Shire was then held their Kings Court The Danes after them often aflayed herein to haue seated as witnesseth Ternall then Thâ—â—tenhall by interpretation The habitation of Pagans â—â—brued with their bloud by King Edward the elder But the Inhabitants of this Prouince Beda tearmes The midland Englishmen because to his seeming it lay in the heart of the Land which when the Normans had made Conquest of all many of them set downe their rest here whose posteritie at this day are fairely and further branched into other parts 6 The Commodities of this Countie consist chiefly in Corne Cattle Alablaster Woods and Iron if the one proue not the destruction of the other Pit-coale Flesh and Fish whereof the Riuer Trent is said to swarme and others arising and running thorow this Shire doe so batten the ground that the Meadowes euen in the midst of Winter grow greene such are Dowe Manifold Churnot Hunsye Yenden Tean Elith Trent Tyne and Sowe whereof Trent is not onely the principall but in esteeme accounted the third of this Land 7 Stafford the Snire-Towne anciently Betheney from Bertelin a reputed holy man that therein lead an Hermits life was built by King Edward the elder incorporated by King Iohn and vpon the East and South parts was walled and trenched by the Barons of the place the rest from East to North was secured by a large Poole of water which now is become faire Meadow grounds The tract and circuit of these welles extended to twelue hundred and fortie pases thorow which foure Gates into the foure winds haue passage the Riuer Sowe running on the South and West of the Towne King Edward the sixt did incorporate the Burgesses and gaue them a perpetuall succession whose gouernment is vnder two Bailiffes yearely elected out of one and twentie Assistants called the Common Counsell a Recorder whereof the Dukes of Buckingham haue borne the Office and as yet is kept a Court of Record wherein they hold Plea without limitation of summe a Towne-Clerke also from whose Pen I receiued these Instructions and to attend them two Sergeants at Mace This Towne is sited in the degree of Latitude 53. 20. scruples and of Longitude 18. and 40. scruples 8 But Leichfield more large and of farre greater same is much her ancient knowne vnto Beda by the name of Licidfeld which Rosse doth interpret to be The field of deadbodies for the number of Saints vnder the rage of Dioclesiaâ— there slaine vpon which cause the Citie beareth for her Armes an Eschocheon of Landskip with diuers Martyrs in diuers manner massacred Here Oswin King of Northumberland ouer-comming the Pagan-Mercians built a Church and made it the See of Duina the Bishop whose successors growne rich with golden reasons so ouercame King Offa and the Adrian the Pope that an Archiepiscopall Pale was granted Bishop Eadulph to the great disgrace of Lambert Arch-bishop of Canterbury In this Church were interred the bodies of Wulshere and Celred both of them Kings of the Mercians But when the mindes of men were set altogether vpon gorgeous building this old foundation was new reared by Roger Clinton Bishop of this See and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Chad and the Close inwalled by Bishop Langton The gouernment of this Citie is by two Bailiffes and one Sheriffe yearely chosen out of twentie-foure Burgesses a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants their Attendants 9 Houses of Religion erected in this Shire were at Leichfield Stafford De la Crosse Cruâ—den Trentham Burton Tamworth and Woluer-hamptâ—n These Votaries abusing their Founders true pieties and heaping vp riches with disdaine of the Laitie laid themselues open
certaine vault or little Chappell vnder the ground wherein he was supposed to haue beene buried might beget much wonder and admiration but that L. Zius confirmeth that in ancient times they had a custome to preserue light in Sepulchres by an artificiall resoluing of gold into a liquid and farry substance which should continue bruning a long time and for many ages together THE BISHOPRICKE OF DURHAM CHAPTER XXXIX THe Bishopricke of Durham containeth those parts and Towne-ships that 〈…〉 the Reuer Tees and Derwent and all along the German-Sea 〈…〉 on the North witâ— Northumberland and their Iurisdictions parted by the 〈…〉 touched by Cumberland Westmorland and from 〈…〉 Riuer Tees and by the same water on her South from Yorke-shire 〈…〉 By the German-Sea 2 The forme thereof is triangle 〈…〉 for from her South 〈◊〉 vnto the West-point are about thirtie miles from thence to the North-east and 〈…〉 are likewise as many and her base along the Sea-shore are twentie 〈…〉 Circumference about one hundred and three miles 3 The ayre is sharpe and very piercing and would be more 〈◊〉 not that the 〈◊〉 from the German-Seas did helpe much to dissolue 〈◊〉 and snow and the store of coales therein growing and gotten doe warme the body and keepe backe the cold which 〈…〉 besides their owne vse doth yeeld great commodities vnto this Prouince by trade thereof 〈◊〉 other parts 4 For Soile it consisteth much alike of Pastures 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 grounds the East is the richest and most champion the South more moorish but 〈…〉 without either grasse or graine notwithstanding 〈…〉 with as great gaine both in rearing vp Cattle and 〈…〉 groweth so neere to the vpper 〈…〉 wheeles doe turne vp the same Some hold their substance to be a clammie kinde of clay hardned with heat abounding in the earth and so becomming concocted is nothing else but Bitumen for proofe whereof these Coales haue both the like smell and operation of Bitumen for being sprinkled with water they burne more vehemently but with oyle are quite extinguished and put out 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne vnto Ptolemie were the Brigantes of whom we haue spoken in the Generall of Yorkeshire they being subdued by the romans after whom the Saxons made it a part of their Northumberlands Kingdom at first a Prouince belonging to the Deirians and enioyed by Ella their first King afterwards inuaded by the Danes and lastly possessed by the Normans whose site being so neere vnto Scotland hath many times felt their fury and hath beene as a Buckler betwixt them and the English for which cause the Inhabitants haue certaine freedomes and are not charged with seruice as other Counties are so that this with Westmorland Cumberland and Northumberland are not diuided into hundreds in those Parliament Rolles whence I had the rest which want I must leaue for others to supply 6 Ouer this Countie the Bishops thereof haue had the Royalties of Princes and the Inhabitants haue pleaded priuiledge not to passe in seruice of warre ouer the Riuer of Tees or Tyne whose charge as they haue alledged was to keepe and defend the corps of S Cuthbert their great adored Saint and therefore they termed themselues The holy-werk-folkes And the repute of this Cuthbert and his supposed defence against the Scots was such that our English Kings in great deuotion haue gone in pilgrimage to visit his Tombe and haue giuen many large possessions to his Church such were King Egfred Aelfred and Guthrun the Dane Edward and Athelstan Monarch of England and zealous Cannte the greatest of all who came thither bare-footed and at Cuthberts Tombe both augmented and confirmed their Liberties This Saint then of nothing made Durham become great and William the Conquerour of a Bishopricke made it a County Palatine at that time William Careleph Bishop of the Diocesse pulled downe the old Church which Aldwin had built and with sumptuous cost laid the foundations of a new wherein S. Cuthberts Shrine in the vacancy of the Bishops was the Keeper of the Castle-keyes In the West of this Church and place called Gallile the Marble Tombe of venerable Beda remaineth who was borne at Iaerro in this Countie and became a Monke at Weremouth whose painefull industâ—es and light of learning in those times of darknesse are wonderfull as the volumes which he wrote doe well declare And had the idle Monkes of England imployed their times after his example their Founders expectations had not beene frustrate nor those foundations so easily ouerturned But the reuenge of sinne euer following the actions of sinnes dissolued first the largenesse of this Counties liberties vnder the raigne of King Edward the First and since hath shaken to peices those places herein erected vnder the raigne of King Henry the eight such were Durham Sherborne Stayndrâ—p Iarro â—eremouth and Egleton all which felt the reward of their idlenesse and wrath of him that is jealous of his owne honour 7 Things of rare note obserued in this Shire are three pits of a wonderfull depth commonly called the Hell-Kettles which are adioyning neere vnto Darlington whose waters are some what warme These are thought to come of an Earth-quake which happened in the yeare of Grace 1179. whereof the Chrenicle of Tin-mouth maketh mention whose record is this On Christmas day at Oxeâ—hall in the Territorie of Darlington within the Bishopricke of Durham the ground heaued vp aloft like vnto an high Tower 〈…〉 all that day as it were vnmoueable vntill the euening 〈◊〉 then fell with so horrible a noise that it made all the neighbour dwellers sore afraid and the earth swallowed it vp and made in the same place a deepe pit which is there to be seene for a testimonie vnto this day 8 Of no lesse admiration are certaine stones lying within the Riuer Weere at Butterbre neere Durham from whose sides at the Ebbe and low water in the Summer issueth a certaine salt reddish water which with the Sunne waxeth white and growing into a thicke substance becommeth a necessary salâ— to the vse of the by-dwellers 9 And places of elder times had in aâ—rount by the Romans were Benonium now Binchester and Câ—ndereum Chester in the street where their monies haue beene digged vp and at Codercuâ—â— so much that Egelrik Bishop of Durham was therewith made exceeding rich VVESTMORLAND CHAPTER XL. VVESTMORLAND by some late Latine Writers is câ—lled Westmaria and Westmorlandia by some later Westmoria and in our English Tongue Westmorland It came to be thus named in our language by the situation which in euery part is so plenteously full of Moores and high hils teaching one to another that Westmorland with vs is nothing else but a Westerne moorish Country Hauing on the West and North-side Cumberland on the South-part Lanca-shire on the East-side Yorkeshire and the Bishopricke of Durham 2 The length thereof extended from Burton in her South to Kirkland in her North-part is 30. miles the broadest part from East to West is from the Riuer Eden to Dunbal
is fourescore and two miles 3 The ayre is so cold and sharpe being bordering vpon the 〈◊〉 parts and for her shelter hauing but a wall of water They haue few woods onely they light sometimes vpon so subterranean trees buried vnder the ground by digging vp the earth for a â—lammie kinde of 〈◊〉 which they vse for fuell 4 The soile is reasonable fruitfull both for Cattle Fish and Corne yet it rather commendeth the paines of the people then the goodnesse of the ground for by the industry of the Inhabitants it â—eeldeth sufficiency of euery thing for it selfe and sendeth good store into other Countries It hath fields by good manuring plenteous of Barley and Wheat but especially 〈…〉 and from hence it comes that the people eate most of all Oaten-bread It beares abundance of 〈◊〉 and Flaxe and is full of mightie flockes of sheepe and other Cattell yet are they smaller in body then we haue in England and are much like to the Cattle in Ireland that are neighbouring vpon it 5 This commoditie makes this Iland more happie then we are here for the people are there free from vnnecessary commencements of Suites from long and dilatory Pleas and from friuolous feeing of Lawyers No Iudge or Clerks of the Court take there any penny for drawing Instruments or making of Processes All Controuersies are there determined by certaine Iudges without writings or other charges and them they call Deemsters and chuse forth among themselues If any complaint be made to the Magistrate for wrongs eyther done or suffred he presently taketh vp a stone and fixeth his marke vpon it and so deliuereth it vnto the partie plaintiffe by vertue of which he both cals his aduersary to appearance and to produce his witnesses If the case fall out to be more litigious and of greater consequence then can easily be ended it is then referred to twelue men whom they terme The Keyes of the Iland Another happinesse enricheth this Iland namely the securitie and gouernment thereof as being defended from neighbour enemies by Souldiers that are prest and ready for on the South-side of the I le stands Bala-Curi the Bishops chiefe place of residence and the Pyle and a Block-house standing in a little Iland where there is a coÌ„tinuall Garrison of Souldiers And it is so well managed for matter of rule and ciuill discipline that tuery man there possesseth his owne in peace and safetie No man liues in dread or danger of losing what he hath Men are not there inclined to robbing or theeuing or licentious liuing 6 The Inhabitants of this Iland are for the most part religious and louing to their Pastors to whom they doe much reuerence and respect frequenting daily to diuine Seruice without diuision in the Church or innouation in the Common-weale The wealthier sort and such as hold the fairest possessions doe imitate the people of Lanca-shire both in their honest carriage and good house-keeping Howbeit the common sort of people both in their language and manners come nighest vnto the Irish although they somewhat rellish and fauour of the qualities of the Norwegians 7 Things not worthy to be buryed in the graue of obliuion are that this Iland in the midst thereof riseth vp with hils standing very thicke amongst which the highest is called Sceafull from whence vpon a cleare and faire day a man may easily see three Kingdomes at once that is Scotland England and Ireland This I le prohibits the customary manner ofbegging from doore to doore detesting the disorders as well Ciuill as Ecclesiasticall of neighbour Nations And last not least that deserues to be committed to memory is that the women of this Country wheresoeuer they goe out of their doores gird themselues about with the winding-sheete that they purpose to be buried in to shew themselues mindfull of their mortalitie and such of them as are at any time condemned to dye are sowed within a sacke and flung from a rocke into the Sea 8 The whole Isle is diuided into two parts South and North whereof the one resembleth the Scotish in speech the other the Irish It is defended by two Castles and hath seauenteene Parishes fiue Market-Townes and many Villages A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN CHAPTER XLIIII IT is here very pertinent to the purpose to insert a small History of this Iland that the atchieuements heretofore had may not be vtterly buryed although they are waxen very old and almost torne from remembrance by the teeth of Time It is confessed by all that the Britaine 's held this Iland as they did all Britaine But when the Nations from the North ouerflowed those South parts like violent tempests it became subiect to the Scots Afterwards the Norwegians who did most hurt from the Northerne Sea by their manifold robberies made this Iland and the Hebrides to be their baunt and erected Lords and petry Kings in the same as is expressed in this Chronicle written as is reported by the Monkes of the Abbey of Russin A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN ANno Dom. 1065. Edward of blessed memory King of England departed this life and Harald the Sonne of Godwyn succeeded him in the Kingdome against whom Harald Harfager King of Norway came into the field and fought a Battle at Stainford-bridge but the English obtaining the victory put them all to flight Out of which chase Godred surnamed Crovan the sonne of Harald the blacke of Iseland came vnto Godred the sonne of Syrric who Raigned then in Man and honourably receiued him 2 The same yeare William the Bastard Conquered England and Godred the son of Syrric died his sonne Fingal succeeding him 3 An. 1066. Godred Crovan assembled a great Fleet and came to Man and sought with the people of the Land but receiued the worst and was ouercome The second time renewing his Forces and his Fleet he failed into Man and ioyned Battle with the Manksmen but was vanquished as before and driuen out of the field Howbeit what he could not at first bring to passe with power in those two seuerall onsers he afterward effected by policie For the third time gathering a great multitude together he arriued by night in the hauen called Raâ—sey and hid three hundred men in a Wood which stood vpon the hanging hollow brow of an hill called Sceafull The Sunne being risen the Manksmen put their people in order of Battle and with a violent charge encountred with Godred The fight was hot for a time and stood in a doubtfull suspence till those three hundred men starting out of the Ambush behinde their backes began to foile the Manksmen put them to the worst and forced them to flie Who seeing themselues thus discomfited and finding no place of refuge left them to escape with pitifull lamentation submitted themselues vnto Godred and besought him not to put to the sword such poore remainder of them as was left aliue Godred hauing compassion on their calamities for he had beene nursed for a time and brought vp among
them sounded a retreat and prohibited his Host any longer perfuie He being thus possessed of the I le of Man dyed in the Iland that is called Ile when he had raigned sixteene yeares He left behinde him three sonnes Lagman Harald and Olaue 4 Lagman the eldest taking vpon him the Kingdome raigned seauen yeares His brother Harald rebelled against him a great while but at length was taken prisoner by Lagman who caused his members of generation to be cut off and his eyes to be put out of his head which crueltie this Lagman afterwards repenting gaue ouer the Kingdome of his owne accord and wearing the badge of the Lords Crosse tooke a iourney to Ierusalem in which he dyed 5 An 1075. all the Lords and Nobles of the Iland◠hearing of the death of Lagman dispatched Ambassadours to Murecard O-brien King of Ireland and requested that he would send some worthy and industrious man of the Bloud Royall to be their King till Olaue the sonne of Godred came to full age The King yeelding to their request sent one Dopnald the sonne of Tade and charged him to gouerne the Kingdome which by right belonged to another with lenitie and gentlenesse But after be was come to the Crowne forgetting or not weighing the charge that his Lord and Master had giuen him swayed his place with great tyranny committing many outrages and cruelties and so raigned three yeares till all the Princes of the Ilands agreeing together rose vp against him and made him flie into Ireland 6 An. Dom. 1111. Olaue the sonne of Godred Crouan aforesaid began his raigne and raigned fortie yeares a peaceable Prince He tooke to wife Affrica the daughter of Fergus of Gal-way of whom he begat Godred By his Concubines he had Raignald Lagman and Harald besides many daughters whereof one was married to Summerled Prince of Herergaidel who caused the ruine of the Kings of the Ilands On her he begat foure sonnes Dulgal Raignald Engus and Olaue 7 An. Dom. 1144 Godred the sonne of Olaue was created King of Man and raigned thiritie yeares In the third yeare of his raigne the people of Dublin sent for him and made him their King Which Mure-card King of Ireland maligning raised warre and sent Osibeley his halfe brother by the mothers side with 3000. men at Armes to Dublin who by Godred and the Dublinians was slaine and the rest all put to flight These atchieuements made Godred returned to Man and began to vse tyranny turning the Noblemen out of their inheritances Whereupon one called Thorfin vtters sonne being mightier then the rest came to Summerled and made Dulgal Summerleds sonne King of the Ilands whereof Godred hauing intelligence prepared a Nauie of 80. Shippes to meet Summerled And in the yeare 1156. there was a Battle fought at Sea on Twelfth day at night and many slaine on both sides But the next day they grew to a pacification and diuided the Kingdome of the Ilands among themselues This was the cause of the ouerthrow of the Kingdome of the Iles. 8 Ann 1158. Summerled came to Man with a fleet of fiftie three saile put Godred to flight and wasted the Iland Godred vpon this crossed ouer to Norway for ayde against Summerled But Summerled in the meane time arriuing at Rhinfrin and hauing gathered together fleet of 160 ships couerting to subdue all Scotland by the rust iudgement of God was vanquished by a few and both himselfe and his sonne slaine with an infinite number of people 9 The fourth day after Raignald began to raigne but Godred comming vpon him out of Norway with a great multitude of Armed men tooke his brother Raignald and be rest him both of his eyes and genitall members On the fourth Ides of Nouember An. Dom. 1187. Godred King of the Ilands dyed and his body was translated to the I le of Ely He left behinde him three sonnes Raignald Olaue and Yuar He ordained in his life time that Olaue should succeed him because he onely was borne legitimate But the people of Man seeing him to be scarce ten yeares old sent for Raignald and made him their King I his caused great diuision and many turbulent attempts betweene the two Brethren for the space of thirtie eight yeares which had no end till at a place called Tnigualla there was a battle strucke betweene them wherein Olaue had the victory and Raignald was slaine The Monkes of Russin translated his body vnto the Abbey of S. Mary de Fournes and there interred it in a place which himselfe had chosen for that purpose 10 An. 1230. Olaue and Godred Don who was Raignalds sonne with the Norwegians came to Man and diuided the Kingdome among themselues Olaue held Man and Godred being gone vnto the Ilands was slaine in the I le Lodhus So Olaue obtained the Kingdome of the Isses He dyed the twelfth Calends of Lune Anno 1237. in Saint Patrickes Iland and was buryed in the Abbey of Russin 11 Harrold his sonne succeeded him being foureteene yeares of age and raigned 12 yeares In the yeare 1239. he went vnto the King of Norway who after two yeares confirmed vnto him his heyres and successours vnder his Seale all the Ilands which his predecessours had possessed 12 An. 1242. Harrold returned out of Norway and being by the Inhabitants honourably receiued had peace with the Kings of England and of Scotland The same yeare he was sent for by the King of Norway and married his daughter In the yeare 1249. as he returned homeward with his wife he was drowned in a tempest neere vnto the coasts of Radland 13 An Dom. 1249. Raignald the sonne of Olaue and brother to Harrold began his raigne and on the thirtieth day there of was slaine by one Yuar a Knight in a meadow neere vnto the holy Trinitie Church and lyeth buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 14 In the yeare 1252. Magnus the sonne of Olaue came to Man and was made King The next yeare following he went to the King of Norway and stayed there a yeare 15 In the yeare 1265. Magnus Olaues sonne King of Man and of the Ilands departed this life at the Castle of Russin and was buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 16 In the yeare 1266. the Kingdome of the Ilands was translated by reason of Alexander King of Scots who had gotten into his hands the Westerne Ilands and brought the I le of Man vnder his dominion as one of that number HOLY ILAND CHAPTER XLV THis Iland is called Lindisfarne by the Riuer Lied that is opposite vnto it on the Coast of Northumberland Beda termeth it a Deiny Iland The Britaine name it 〈…〉 for that it twice euery day suffreth an extraordinary inundation and ouer-flowing of the Ocean in manner of an Iland which twice likewise makes it continent to the Land and returning vnto her watrie habitation layes the Shoare bare againe as before It is called in English Holy-Iland for that in ancient times many Monkes haue beene accustomed to
addict themselues to trauell into forraine Countries 4 Yet in the meane while lest I should seeme too difectiue in my intendments let me without offence in this third though short Booke giue onely a generall view of that Kingdome vpon obseruations from others which to accomplish by mine owne suruey if others should hap to faile and my crazy-aged-body will giue leaue is my chiefe desire knowing the Iland furnished with many worthy remembrances appertaining both vnto them and vs whom God now hath set vnder one Crowne and the rather for that their more Southerne people are from the same Originall with vs the English being both alike the Saxon branches as also that the Picts anciently inhabiting part of that Kingdome were the inborne Britaines and such as thither fled to auoid the Romane seruitude whose names began first to be distinguished vnder Dioclesian the Emperour when they were termed Picts for painting their bodies like the Britaines as such Flauius Vigetius which is more strengthened for that the Northerne Britaines conuerted by Saint Columb are called Britaine Picts 6 Their manner were alike saith Diodorus Siculus and Strabo and their garments not much different as by Sidonius Apollinaris may be gathered where he seemeth rather to describe the moderne Wild-Irish then the antike Gete Notwithstanding this Nations Originall by some hath beene deriued from Scota the supposed Daughter of the Egyptian King Pharoah that nourished Moses afterwards married vnto Gaithelus the son of Cecrops Founder of Athens who first seating in Spaine passed thence into Ireland and lastly into Scotland where his Wife Scota gaue Name to the Nation if we beleeue that they hit the marke who shoot at the Moone 7 But that the Scythians came into Spaine besides the Promontory bearing their Name Scythiâ—um Silius Italicus a Spanyard borne doth shew who bringeth the Concani a Nation therein seated from the Massagetae which were the Scythians and the Sarmatae whom all confesse to haue bin Scythians were the builders as he saith of the Citie Susanna in Spaine And how from Spaine they possessed themselues of Ireland at the time when the Kingdome of Iulah flourished Ninius the Disciple of Eluodugus doth tell and their owne Histories of Nemethus and Delas besides Cisnerus and others doe shew who were first knowne by the name of Scots as is gathered out of Prophyry alledged by S. Ierome in the raigne of Aurelianus the Emperour Gildas calleth them the Irish-Spoilers Giraldus A Scotish Nation descended from Ireland which in regard of them by Eginbardus is termed The I le of Scots by Beda The I le inhabited by the Scots and by other Historians Scotland the great as their seate in Britaine was called Scotland the lesse 9 Scotlands South part in Galloway washed with the warer of Solway Bay toucheth degree 56. of Latitude and thence inbosoming many Loughes and In-lets vpon the East and West extendeth it selfe vnto the degree 60 and 30 minutes whose Longitude is likewise laid betwixt the degree 13 and 19 and the same growne very narrow being so neere the North-Pole as lying directly vnder the hindermost Starres of the Greater Beare 11 And these againe are subdiuided into Sherifdomes Stewardships and â—â—â—wickes for the most part inheritory vnto honourable Families The Ecclesiasticall Gouernment is also subiect vnder two Metropolitan Arch-bishops which are of S. Andrewes the Primate of Scotland and of Glasco whose Iurisdictions are as followeth S. Andrewes Dunkeld Aberdon Murray Dunblan Brechin Rosse Cathanes Orkeney Glasco Galloway Argile Iles. Amongst the things worthy of note of Antiquitie in this Kingdome most memorable was that Fortification drawne from Abercorne vpon the Frith of Edenborough vnto Aleluya how Dunbritton opening vpon the West Sea where Iulius Agricola set the limit of the Romane Empire past which saith Tacitus there was no other bounds of Britaine to be sought for and that here the second Legion Augusta and the 20. Legion Victrix built a part of the Wall certaine Inscriptions there digged vp and reserued at Dunloyr and Cader doe witnesse as also an ancient coped monument of an high and round compasse which as some thinke was a Temple consecrated vnto the God Terâ—â—â— others a Trophey raised by Carausius who fortified this Wall with seauen Castles as Ninius doth declare 13 Ninian a Britaine is recorded to haue conuerted the South-Ficts vnto the Faith of Christ in the raigne of Theodosius the younger and the Church in Galloway bearing his name doth witnes it so likewise in the same age Palladius sent from Pope Coelestine became an Apostle vnto the Scots whose reliques lay enshrined at Fordoâ— in Mernis as was verily supposed but that Christianitie had beene formerly planted in this vttermost Prouince is testified by Tertuilian in saying the Britaines had embraced the faith farther then the Romans had power to follow or persecute them whereupon Peter Monke of 〈◊〉 Spaine concludeth their conuersion to be more ancient then the Southerne Britaines 14 But touching things obseruable for the present surely admirable is the report of the plenty of Cattle Fish and Fowle there abiding their Neat but little yet many in number Fish so plentifull that men in some places for delight on horse-backe hunt Salmons with Speares and a certaine Fowle which some call Soland-Geese spreading so thicke in the ayre that they euen darken the Suns light of whose flesh feathers and oyle the Inhabitants in some parts make great vse and gaine yea and euen of fishes brought by them abundant prouision for diet as also of the stickes brought to make their nests plentifull prouision for fuell 16 No lesse strange then any the fore-mentioned waters but more lamentable is the remembrance of the great inâ—ndation happing by the sodaine rising of Tay. which bare away the Walles and Towne of Berth and with it the Cradle and yong sonne of King William into the Sea wherein the Royall Insant with many others perished the King and his Courtiers hardly escaping the danger with life The ruine of this Towne raised another more famous and more commodiously seated euen Perth since called Saint Iohns-Towne 17 Ilands and Ilets yeelding both beautie and subiection to this Scotish Kingdome are the Westerne the Orknayes and the Shetlands reckoned to be aboue three hundred in number the Inhabitants for the most part vsing the frugalitie of the ancient Scot. 18 The Westerne lying scattered in the Deucalidoman Sea were anciently ruled by a King of their owne whose maintenance was out of their common Coffers and the Regall Authoritie neuer continued in line all succession for to preuent that their Kings were not permitted to haue wiues of their owne but might by their Lawes accompany with other mens as the like Law was in the other parts of Scotland that the Virginitie of all new wiues should be the Landlords prey till King Malcolme enacted that halfe a marke should be paid for redemption The residence of those fore-mentioned Kings was chiefly in Ila Bunals and Iona now Columbkill where as Donald Munrâ—
magnanimitie 9 But the Citie which fame may iustly celebrate alone beyond all the Cities or Townes in Ireland is that which we call Diuelin Ptoleâ—ie Eblana the Latinists Dublinium and Dublinia the West-Britaines Dinas Dulm the English-Saxons in times past Duplin and the Irish Balacleigh that is the Towne vpon hurdles for it is reported that the place being fennish and moorish when it first began to be builded the foundation was laid vpon hurdles 10 That it is ancient is perswaded by the authoritie of Ptolâ—mie That it was grieuously rent and dismembred in the tamultuous warres of the Danes and brought afterwards vnder the subâ—ection of Eadgar King of England which his Charter also confirmeth wherein he calleth it the noble Citie of Ireland is written by Saxo Grammaticus That it was built by Harold of Norway which may seeme to be Harold Harâ—ager when he had brought the greatest part of Ireland into an awfull obedience vnto him we reade in the life of Griffith ap Sâ—â—an Prince of Wales At length it yeelded vnto the valour and protection of the English at their first arriuall into Ireland by whom it was manfully defended from the fierce assaults as well of Auscoulph Prince of the Dâ—blinians as afterwards of Gottard King of the Isles since which time it hath still augmented her flourishing estate and giuen approued testimony of her faith and loyaltie to the Crowne of England in the times of any tumultuous streights and commotions 11 This is the royall seat of Ireland strong in her munition beautifull in her buildings and for the quantitie matchable to many other Cities frequent for trafficke and intercourse of Merchants In the East Suburbs Henry the second King of England as Hâ—ueden reporteth caused a royall Pallace to be erected and Henry Loundres Archbishop of Diuelin built a Store-house about the yeare of Christ 1220. Not farre from it is the beautifull Colledge consecrated vnto the name of the holy Trinitie which Queene Elizabeth of famous memory dignified with the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie The Church of S. Patricke being much enlarged by King Iohn was by Iohn Comin Archbishop of Dublin borne at Euesham in England first ordained to be a Church of Prebends in the yeare 1191. It doth at this day maintaine a Deane a Chanter a Chancellor a Treasurer two Archdeacons and twentie two Prebendaries This Citie in times past for the due administration of Ciuill Gouernment had a Prouost for the chiefe Magistrate But in the yeare of mans redemption 1409 King Henry the fourth granted them libertie to chuse euery yeare a Maior and two Bailistes and that the Maior should haue a gilt sword carried before him for euer And King Edward the sixt to heape more honour vpon this place changed the two Bailiffes afterwards into Sheriffes so that there is not any thing here wanting that may serue to make the estate of a Citie most flourishing 12 As the people of this County doe about the neighbouring parts of Diuelin come neerest vnto the ciuill conditions and orderly subiection of the English so in places farther off they are more tumultuous being at deadly feuds amongst themselues committing oft times Man-slaughter one vpon another and working their owne mischiefes by mutuall wrongs for so the Irish of Leinster wasted Leinster with many Townes in the same Prouince in the yeare 1294. And in the yeare 1301. the men of Leinster in like manner raised a warre in the winter season setting on fire the Towne of Wykâ—â—lo Rathdon and others working their owne plague and punishment by burning vp their sustenance and losing their Castle by depredation 13 Matter of obseruation and no lesse admiration among them is the Giants dance commonly so called and so much talked of which Merlin is said by Art Magicke to haue translated out of this Territorie vnto Salisburie Plaine which how true it is I leaue to the vaine beleeuers of miracles and to the credulous obseruers of antiquitie 14 In this County haue beene erected many famous Monasteries Abbies and religious houses consecrated to deuout and holy purposes As the Monastery of Saint Maries of Oustmanby â—ounded for preaching Friers vnto which of late dayes the Iudiciall Courts of the Kingdome haue beene translated also the magnificent Abbey called S. Thomas Court at Dublin builded and endowed in times past with many large priuiledges and reuenewes of King Henry the second in expiation of the murther of Thomas Arch-bishop of Canterbury Likewise Tiutern Monastery or the notable Abbey which William Marshall Earle of Pembrooke founded and called De roto for that he had vowed to God being tossed at Sea with many a sore and dangerous tempest to erect an Abbey wheresoeuer he came to land and being after shipwracke cast vpon land in this place he made performance of his vow accordingly THE PROVINCE OF CONNAVGHT CHAPTER IIII. THis Prouince named by Giraldus Cambrensis Conachtia and Conacia by the Irish Conaughty and by English-men Connaught is bounded East-ward with part of the County of Leinster North-ward with part of Vlster West-ward with the West-maine Ocean and on the South it is confined with a part of the Prouince of Mounster closed in with the Riuer Sbennon and butting against the Kingdome of Spaine 2 The forme thereof is long and towards the North and South ends thinne and narrow but as it growes towards the middle from either part it waxeth still bigger and bigger extending in length from the Riuer Shennon in her South to Enis Kelling in her North 126. miles and the broadest part is from Tromer in her East to Barragh-Bay in her West containing about fourescore miles The whole in circuit and compasse is aboue foure hundred miles 3 The aire is not altogether so pure and cleare as in the other Prouinces of Ireland by reason of certaine moist places couered ouer with grasse which of their softnesse are vsually termed Boghes both dangerous and full of vaporous and foggie mists 4 This County as it is diuided into seuerall portions so is euery portion seuerally commended for the soile according to the seasonable times of the yeare Twomond or the County Clare is said to be a Country so conueniently situated that either from the Sea or Soile there can be nothin wisht for more then what it doth naturally afford of it selfe were but the industry of the Inhabitants answerable to the rest Galway is a land very thankfull to the painefull husbandman and no lesse commodious and profitable to the Shepheard Maio in the Roman Prouinciall called Mageo is replenished both with pleasure and fertility abundantly rich in Cattle Deere Hawkes and plenty of Hony Slego coasting vpon the Sea is a plenteous Country for feeding and raising of Cattle Le-Trim a place rising vp throughout with hilles is so full of ranke grasse and forrage that as Solinus reporteth if Cattle were not kept sometimes from grasing their fulnesse would endanger them And Roscoâ—en is a Territory for the most part plaine and fruitfull feeding many Heards