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A51007 A new voyage to Italy with a description of the chief towns, churches, tombs, libraries, palaces, statues, and antiquities of that country : together with useful instructions for those who shall travel thither / by Maximilian Mission ; done into English and adorned with figures.; Nouveau voyage d'Italie. English Misson, Maximilien, 1650?-1722. 1695 (1695) Wing M2253; ESTC R28829 405,658 759

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am SIR Your c Rome May 4. 1688. LETTER XXVII SIR WE found little or nothing worth our Observation between Rome and Viterbo only there are some * Towards the Wood of Baccano Pieces of the Via Emilia still remaining which I measur'd and found to be of equal breadth with other Consulary ways The ancient Lake Cyminus now call'd the Lake de Vico is at the foot of a Hill of the same name from the top of which we discover'd the Sea This Mountain is very high but the ascent to it is easie It is almost all cover'd with Sycomores and Chesnut-trees and we observ'd a great number of Primroses Narcissus's Hyacinths and other Flowers now in season growing upon it Viterbo is a City of indifferent bigness almost wholly built of Stone and enclos'd with a Wall VITERBO Beside the Steeples of the Churches there are eight or ten square Towers which are seen at a distance and make an odd kind of prospect These were Forts or Retiring places built by the richest Inhabitants adjoining to their Houses during the Fury of the Guelph and Gibelin Factions Schrader relates That he saw in this City an ancient Inscription which deserves to be inserted here Marcum Tullium Ciceronem ob egregias ejus virtutes singularesque animi dotes per totum Orbem nostris Armis virtuteque perdomitum Salvum incolumem esse jubemus You may find an Account of the Restauration of the ancient Tuscan Name Viterbo in the following Inscription of which I took a Copy at the Town-house Desiderius ultimus Insubrium Rex Longulam Vetuloniam atque Volturnam moenibus cingit Etruriae priore nomine inducto Viterbium mulctâ capitis indictâ appellari jubet Sal. An. DCC LXXIII There is another Inscription in the same place which confirms the Donation made by the Countess Maud of her Estate to the Papal See Aeternae memoriae inclytae Mathildis quae ob praestabile Religionis studium ac pietatem sedi Pontificiae suum hoc Patrimonium Divi Petri in Thusciâ dein nuncupatum elargitur in veteran Vrbis ejus splendorem intuens Paschalis II. Bledem Pontifex Maximus ejus Metropolim ut ante Viterbium constituit An. S. 1113. It would be a hard task to produce such an authentic Testimony for the * You may find a Latin Version of it in Barth Picerna and Aug. Steuchus which is said to be a Translation of the pretended Greek Original at the Vatican It is also inserted in Gratian's Decretals but St. Antonin of Florence proves that it is not mention'd in the old Decretals And besides N. Everard L. Valla R. Volaterranus A. Alciat J. Aventin F. Vasquius Cardinal Cusa and Pope Pius II. himself have solidly refuted this Fable See also the Figmentum Donationis Constantini by the Jesuite Jos Cantelius in his Treatise of Metropolitan Cities Donation of the first Patrimony by Constantine I remember I have somewhere read a pleasant Repartee of a Venetian † Hieronymo Donato Ambassador concerning this pretended Donation The ‖ Alexander VI. Pope being one day in a merry humour ask'd him in what part of the Venetian Annals their Title to the Adriatic Gulf was recorded If your Holiness reply'd the Ambassador will give your self the trouble to look upon the Contract of the Donation made to the Holy See by Constantine the Great you will find our Title written on the back of it Tho' Desiderius's Inscription mentions only three Cities that were united under the Name of Viterbo I have observ'd that this City is sometimes call'd Tetrapolis and its Inhabitants Quaterni Populi And you will find the Names of all the four Cities in the following Distick which is on the top of the Stair-case of the Town-house Hanc Fanum Arbanum Vetuloni Longula quondam Oppida dant Vrbem prima Elementa F.A.U.L. Thus they pretend that the ancient Etrurian Viterbium was built by Isis and Osiris and to confirm this Opinion they produce some Greek and Latin Inscriptions which mention the Antiquity of their City But having been inform'd at Rome that these Inscriptions are Suppositious and that 't is generally believ'd they were made by John Annius the Dominican commonly call'd Annius Viterbiensis who made a Trade of such * Joannes Annius dum Gloriam quandam aucupari conatur cudit novum Metasthenem pro Megastenem Berosum Manethonem Philonem quos commentariis auctos in publicum emisit pretiosis hisce veterum Autorum titulis toti Mundo fere imposuit Megasteni historias attribuit de quibus nunquam cogitavit Calvis Isag Chron. c. 28. Forgeries I would not lose time in transcribing 'em and besides they are very long and written in a small and difficult Character In one of the Halls of this House there is a Picture that was made to preserve the memory of a very extraordinary Accident It represents innumerable swarms of Grashoppers the Sun is darken'd and the Earth cover'd with thick Clouds of these Insects which * Ann. 1576. gnaw and devour every thing about Viterbium All the People are in the Fields endeavouring by several means to deliver themselves from that Egyptian Plague And the Cross and Banner are carried in procession with the Holy Water to conjure and curse these destroying Animals You may find an account an Orosius of an Accident of the same nature that happen'd in Afric in the year of the World 3825. He adds That this Judgment was succeeded by so terrible a Plague that in Numidia alone there died Eight hundred thousand Men and Thirty thousand Roman Soldiers Surius Baronius and all other Writers of Chronicles have stuff'd their Works with such Relations I remember Mezeray relates an Instance of the same kind In the Year 873 says he about the Month of August a prodigious number of flying Locusts made an incredible havock in France They were an inch in thickness and their Teeth were harder than Flints They laid waste the blooming Fields in an instant and devour'd even the Barks of the Trees They were driven by a strong Wind into the Britannic Sea where they were drown'd but the Waves throwing 'em upon the Shore in great heaps their Corruption rais'd a Plague in the neighbouring Provinces This Story is related at length in the Life of Charles the Bald. MONTEFIASCONE As we drew near to Montefiascone a little Town seated on a Hillock eight miles from Viterbium the Children came out to meet us asking whether we would see the Est Est Est Perhaps you have already heard the Story but 't is so singular that I 'm resolv'd at all Adventures to give you an account of it A certain Gentleman or perhaps an Abbot or Bishop as you will afterwards perceive travelling from Germany to Italy us'd to send his Servant before him says the Tradition to taste the Wine in all the Taverns on the Road with Orders to write the word Est over the Door where he found the best Liquor
Daughter and only Ten Crowns to her that went into a Nunnery Plat. or a Bill of a Hundred Crowns for such of them as are willing to enter into a Nunnery Each Maiden having humbly declar'd her Choice receives her Bag hanging by a little String and having kiss'd it makes a low Courtesie and files off to make room for the rest The future Nuns are distinguish'd by a Garland of Flowers which crowns their Virginity and they are rank'd in the most honourable place at the Procession Of all the Three hundred and fifty there were but Two and thirty who chose St. Paul's better part and the rest contented themselves with doing well Give me leave to trip from the Minerva to the Borghese Palace You must see at the Minerva that famous Statue of Christ embracing the Cross by Michael Angelo without obliging me to give you any other reason why I do so than that I must follow my Journal thither This Palace is very beautiful and contains many Rarities The Portico's are supported by fourscore and sixteen Antique Pillars of Egyptian Granite Among the Pictures in the lower Apartments there are seventeen hundred Originals by the most celebrated Masters The Venus blindfolding Cupid while the Graces bring him his Arms is Titian's and is esteem'd the best Paul the Fifth who was of this Family is painted in such fine Mosaic Work that his Picture is said to contain above a million of Pieces My Calculation assures me that this cannot be true but without Criticising upon a Trifle it must be acknowledg'd that 't is an excellent Picture Here they shew'd us a Crucifix of the same bigness with that of the Carthusians at Naples and assur'd us that this is that famous Original of Michael Angelo which I mention'd before To reconcile this Difference I think I may affirm without any scruple that the whole story is a meer Fable It was the common People that gave the name of Rotonda to the Pantheon because of the roundness of its Figure When Boniface the Fourth dedicated this ancient Temple to the Virgin and all the Martyrs he nam'd it S. Maria ad Martyres Afterwards some other Pope would have all the Saints in general comprehended with the Martyrs I must ingenuously acknowledge that I cannot give you the satisfaction you desire concerning the true reason why this Temple was of old call'd the Pantheon Some say that it had that name from the resemblance between its Figure and that of the Heavens Quod forma ejus convexa fastigiatam Coeli similitudinem ostenderet Others think that it was consecrated by Agrippa to Jupiter and all the Gods or perhaps to Jupiter only and to Cybele the Mother of the Gods but after all my opinion is that this Controversie is not well decided 'T is true there are Niches all round the inside of the Temple and I think we may reasonably conjecture that these Niches were formerly full of Idols but this is the only Inference that we can draw from them Varro tells us of Thirty thousand Deities that were worship'd at Rome and the Philosopher Bruxillus in his dying Speech to the Senate assur'd them that he had left Two hundred and Eighty thousand so that there must have been a great number of Niches indeed to accommodate all those Deities Your Niches then will not furnish you with one Argument to prove that the Pantheon was consecrated to all that multitude of Gods that were ador'd at Rome Tho' this Temple hath lost its fairest Ornaments it is still one of the most beautiful and entire antique Edifices in Italy There is to be seen at Castle St. Angelo of which I shall quickly give you some account a Cannon which is a seventy pounder that was made as well as the four Columns of the great Altar only of the brazen Nails with which the Roof of the Portico was fasten'd The two Lyons of Porphyry which are under the Portico of the Pantheon did heretofore serve to adorn the Front of the Temple of Isis F. Nardin The Columns of this Portico are of Granite of the Corinthian Order and all of one piece I measur'd them with as much exactness as you could desire they are not all equally big but I found that they were fifteen foot in compass within a few inches more or less I give you the measure of them in English feet and you may judge of the rest by the proportion that is between each part That piece of Granite in which the opening of the great Gate is cut is also of a very considerable bigness for it is forty foot high and very near twenty broad The illustrious Raphael lies interr'd in this Church Bembus made this beautiful Distick to serve for his Epitaph Ille hic est Raphael timuit quo sospite vinci Rerum magna parens moriente mori La Guillitiere says that the Pantheon at Athens seem'd to him to be a far more magnificent Structure than that of Rome But Spon has censur'd this Author for fancying the Temple of Minerva to be a Pantheon Meursius had faln into the same Error and their common Mistake is grounded upon the faulty description which Theodosius Zygomala whose words they only transcribe gives of that famous Temple in his Letter to Martin Crusius or perhaps on the name of Parthenion which Pausanias gives it I will not exercise your patience with tedious descriptions of Churches but shall content my self to communicate to you some particular Observations concerning them as occasion shall offer That of St. Peter is generally esteem'd to be the largest and most magnificent Temple in the World He that would make a right judgment of it must go thither often he must even walk on the top of the Arches and into the very Ball which is over the Dome and must also view the Church which is under Ground At your first entrance you see no surprizing Objects the harmony and proportions of Architecture are so judiciously observ'd and every thing is plac'd so exactly where it ought to be that this unparallel'd Order does rather compose the Mind than disturb its tranquillity but the longer you consider this vast Structure the more indispensably you will find your self oblig'd to admire it Since you are willing to rely on my Fidelity and Diligence rather than on those who have already given you some dimensions of this Edifice I will send you the principal of them as I measur'd 'em my self more than once with the assistance of skilful and experienc'd persons You will very much oblige me by giving me an Account of what resemblance or difference you shall find between these Dimensions and those of your St. Paul's St Peter's Church Vol. 2 d. Pag. 24   Engl. feet inch 1. The length of the Church measur'd on the outside comprehending the wideness of the Portico and the thickness of the Walls 722   2. The length of the Church measur'd within without comprehending either the Portico or the thickness
since I perceive you insist on this Argument I must tell you plainly that it is a very unwarrantable piece of Partiality not to give it a worse name blindly to embrace the Opinions of any Man not divinely inspir'd whatever figure he may make in the World A Man of Sence will never suffer his Judgment to be byass'd either by the Voice of the Publick or by the Numbers or pretended Authority of Writers that are dignified by great Titles Three quarters of the Christian World are meer Slaves to those ancient Writers whom they call The Fathers tho' 't is certain the good Instructions they have left us are mix'd with a great number of dangerous false insipid and ridiculous Opinions I thought to have ended our Controversie here but I believe it will not be improper to remove another Difficulty before I leave this Subject I must confess I was somewhat surpriz'd to find that instead of Mr. Chevreau you had conjur'd up against me so terrible an Adversary as the famous * David Blondel Blondel who is the Pillar and Bulwark of Antipopessism and whose bare Name has gain'd abundance of Proselytes to his Opinions He was a man of Learning and Wit besides he was a Protestant and consequently was believ'd to have no other Interest than that of Truth in the Success of the Quarrel which he had espous'd 'T is certain his Authority has been always a Stone of Stumbling to those who are wont to make Prejudice their Rule of Faith The Name of the Author is the strongest Argument in his Book and it is that alone which has given the greatest Blow to his Enemies I have read this Piece over and over with attention and can assure you it is written after a manner very proper to blind the Eyes and confound the Judgments of the generality of Readers But those who will not suffer themselves to be impos'd upon and still look for something that is solid and material will not find any thing in the whole Book worthy of that Character I could fill a Volume with Observations and Criticisms on this Work for I have made some Reflexions on every Page and perhaps every Period in it This is not a proper place for 'em but I may find an opportunity hereafter to communicate 'em to you in the mean time I shall content my self with giving you a general Idea of it accompanied with a few particular Remarks according to the method by which I have anatomiz'd it Mr. Blondel begins with a Declaration that gives a wound to his Cause which all his Artifices can never palliate The Force of Truth and of authentick Testimonies which he receiv'd from * He means Salmasius those to whom he neither would nor durst refuse to give credit extorted this ingenuous Confession from him That the History of the Female Pope is contain'd in the Augsburg Copies of Anastasius which I mention'd before You see what Advantage he has given to his Enemies and what Stratagem d' ye think he uses to recover his Ground Could you imagine that a man of his parts would have recourse to the poorest Evasion that ever baffl'd Author was guilty of or that he would start an imaginary Difficulty that he might afterwards the more easily grapple with this Wind-mill in his own Brain He is sensible there is nothing but dry Blows to be got by meddling with these original Manuscripts and that they would be too hard for all his Rhetoric and therefore he e'en very fairly leaves 'em as he found 'em without ever mentioning 'em afterwards and finds out another Anastasius at Paris written about Two hundred years ago which contains also the same History but accompanied with some circumstances which he assures us imply several Contradictions And It seems adds he that the Parisian Anastasius should give light to those of Augsburg At first he dares not advance such a Paradox but with an it seems and without considering whether that which seems to him does also seem so to others he builds his Discourse on this uncertain Foundation and at the same time tho' tacitely establishes his Supposition for a certain Truth Thus with his Anastasius of Two hundred years he has found the Secret to confute all the other Copies of that Author without citing one of ' em But what is still worse his Anastasius is a private Piece which he shews only by Shreds and dares not produce If I were not restrain'd by fear of injuring Mr. Blondel's Sincerity I should be strongly tempted to suspect that his Manuscript was never seen by any Man but himself and at least I think I may be allow'd to suppose that he durst not quote the whole passage lest it might furnish his Adversaries with Weapons against himself In the first place then we must believe Mr. Blondel upon his own single Testimony that there was really such an Anastasius and such a Passage in it as he cites but his Manuscript might have been supposititious or at least a modern and even by his own confession an uncertain Copy since he tells us it had been often taken for a Platina 'T is strange that any man that can read should not be able to distinguish Anastasius from Platina Secondly After we have blindly believ'd all that this Author is pleas'd to tell us concerning his pretended Anastasius we must extend our Complaisance further and upon the credit of his bare it seems either believe or suppose his tacite Inference that this Manuscript not only may serve to illustrate the Anastasius's of Augsburg as he pretends at first but is a true Copy of these and even of the most ancient and exact Anastasius's for if this supposition be false all his Arguments must fall to the Ground I may venture to affirm that this Consideration alone is sufficient to discredit Mr. Blondel's famous Book the main design of which should have been to destroy and confute by clear and solid Reasons the positive Testimony of such a learn'd and uninteress'd Eye-witness as Anastasius Before I proceed to communicate to you some other Remarks on Mr. Blondel's Treatise I must desire you not to expect to find 'em all accompanied with Demonstrations I may perhaps for brevity's sake omit the Proofs of some of my Assertions but I shall be ready to supply that Defect when you please In the general 't is certain that this Book may be entirely and unanswerably confuted out of it self and that far from destroying the History of the Popess the Truth of that Event may be solidly demonstrated by Reasons drawn from this very Treatise These are two Positions which I dare confidently assert and undertake to maintain Among all the Contradictions with which this Discourse is stuff'd I shall only desire you to observe that two thirds of it are spent in litigious Chronological Cavils and vain Rhodomontadoes against the Authors of our History After which he forgets himself so far Above all the Chronology of the Bishops or