Relation of some Particulars of her humor You must know then said she that the King of Spain sent Don Antonio Pimentel in quality of Ambassador to Stockholm to discover as much as in him lay the Intentions of the Swedes They had been long Enemies to the House of Austria and it was not doubted but they would make new Attempts to thwart it in the design of making the Emperour's Son King of the Romans Pimentel was charged to carry on this Affair with great Circumspection He was a gallant witty and handsome Person and he succeeded better than could be expected He immediately discovered the Queen's Genius and easily made himself her Confident He soon perceived she was mightily charm'd with Novelties and that of the crowd of Strangers which she drew to the Court the last come was the most favoured He made it his Task to please her and gained so far on her Affections that he became inform'd by her self of the most secret Affairs and which she ought the most to conceal from him But what cannot he do who has found a way to the heart The Queen 's was so inclined to him that he became the sole Disposer of the Affections of this Princess and by this means was able to write to the Emperour and to the Electors things so certain and agreeable as made 'em easily judge that the Queen of Sweedland's Council had no part in the Declaration she made in favour of the King of Hungary This Intrigue being at an end 't was thought the King would recal Pimentel there appearing no occasion requiring the Presence of an Ambassador But if it were needless for the King of Spain that he should remain at Stockholm 't was not the same with the Queen she neglecting nothing whereby to retain him near her He attended her wherever she went since and many who were led by outward Appearances judged when she left the Crown to her Cosin she did it with great Satisfaction because she did it with dry Eyes and had the Courage to harangue the States with great Force and Eloquence but the People were greatly mistaken in the secret Motives of this Princess Her soul at that time was pierced with the most lovely sorrow she was not a little griev'd to yield to the Prince Palatine a Scepter which she thought her self worthy to wield alone and of which she was the lawful Heiress This Prince had the Address to get it declared that if she married she should choose him for her Husband Assoon as this Declaration was made she began to feel the weight of the subjection wherein she was placed and on the other hand the People did not well relish the being governed by a Woman They insisted more on her Defects than they minded her Vertues The Prince contributed under-hand thereto and the Queen who was penetrating soon perceiv'd it she observ'd the Inclination the People had to him and the wishes which were made to see him on the Throne she grew every day more and more jealous of this and past from hence to such a deadly Hatred that 't was impossible for her to stop the Course of it The Princes presence became so insupportable to her that perceiving it he withdrew into an Island which belong'd to him But he set not out till he had left good Memoires to his Creatures against the Queen's Conduct When she saw her self deliver'd from an Object whose sight was so great an Eye-sore she drew off her Mind from the too intent pursuit of the Affairs of the Kingdom and gave way to her Inclinations to Books Her marvellous Wit made in a short time admirable Progresses in the most profound Sciences but these were not so needful to her as a good Conduct in the management of her Honour and Interest It often happens that having spent several days in her Study she would appear disgusted with her Books saying They were good for nothing but to waste the Spirits and mislead Mens Judgments When the Great Men of the Court saw her in this Disposition they approacht her with more familiarity and then the whole Business was to follow the Pleasures of Love of Plays Balls Turneys Huntings and all other Diversions She gave up her self entirely to them and nothing cou'd bring her off them but she added to this Defect that of enriching Strangers at the Expence of her own Subjects The Swedes began to murmur at this the Queen was advertised of it their Complaints appear'd to be unjust and little respectful and being not a little offended at them she was so unwise as to take Vengeance on her self In effect at the time when 't was least expected and when she was in a Condition to find less violent Remedies she abandoned at one stroak her Crown and Kingdom to her Cosin to this Cosin I say whom she was so far from loving that she wish'd him all the ill she was able and yet to whom she did so much good she thought 't was impossible for any to penetrate into the Motives of this She pretended by this great stroak of Generosity to distinguish her self from among the Heroina's of the most famous Ages But in effect the Conduct she held afterwards distinguish'd her only to her Disadvantage She was seen to set out from Swedeland in a very odd Dress for a Woman with a kind of Justaucorps a short Petticoat with Boots and Cravat in a Perriwig a Hat covered with Feathers and this Perriwig tied up in a lock behind which seem'd then very ridiculous She forbad all her Women to folfow her choosing only Men to serve her and attend her She was wont ordinarily to say That she did not love Men as Men but because they were not Women So that she seem'd to have renounc'd her Sex in renouncing her States altho she had sometimes such Weaknesses as wou'd have made the meanest Women ashamed The trusty Pimentel past over into Flanders with her and I being then there continues she I saw him arrive he procured me the honour to kiss her hand and there needed no less than his Credit to obtain this for she sent word to all the Ladies of Brussels and Antwerpt she wou'd excuse them for their Visits Yet she receiv'd me very well and the little she said to me appear'd full of Wit and extraordinary Vivacity but she swore at every turn like a Souldier and her Words and Actions were so free not to say so dishonest that were it not for her Rank her Person wou'd have been little regarded She spake before every Body of the passionate desire she had to see the Prince of Conde that his great Actions had charm'd her and that she was desirous to learn the Trade of War under him The Prince had no less desire to see her than she testified to see him In the midst of this mutual Impatience the Queen stopt on a sudden on some Formalities and Steps which she refused to take when he shou'd come to salute her These
well shaped Black and lively Eyes and a most Manly Countenance He is Polite Generous and very Brave He is ignorant of nothing befitting his Birth being well-verst in all Arts and Sciences He writes and speaks very well five Languages and understands yet more He has for a long time studied Judicial Astrology There is no Instrument which he cannot make and use with the best Masters He works on all kind of Mechanicks makes Arms and paints finely He took a great Pleasure in the Mathematicks but being charg'd with the Government of the State he has been oblig'd to lay aside all other Employments He came to Buen-Retiro in the beginning of the Year 1677. and as soon as he was there he sent the Queen-Mother to Toledo because she had declared against him and hindred his return to the King Don John had an extream Joy in receiving from the King 's own Hand an Order to take Care of Every thing and to manage the Affairs of the Kingdom And 't was not without occasion he discharg'd himself on him seeing he then was ignorant of the Art of Reigning It was alledg'd for a Reason of his slow Education That the King his Father was dying when he gave him Life That when he came into the World they were fain to put him in a Box of Cotten being so tender and small that he could not be swadled That he was brought up in the Arms and on the Knees of the Ladies of the Palace till he was Ten Years old without putting his Foot once all this while on the Ground to walk That in the Sequel the Queen his Mother who was engaged by all the Ties of Natural Duty to preserve this only Heir of the Spanish Branch fearing to lose him dared not let him study lest by two great an Application he should lose his Health which in truth was very unsound And 't was observ'd that the great Number of Women with whom the King always was and who too sharply reprehended him for his Faults which he committed had inspired him with such a great Aversion to them that as soon as ever he had notice a Lady staid for him in any place he was to pass he stole another way or kept himself shut up all day in his Chamber The Marchioness de Luz Veles who was his Governess told me she waited for an Opportunity full six Months to speak with him and when Chance had brought them vnavoidably to him he took their Requests from their Hands but turn'd his Head another way for fear he should see them His Health is since so increased that his Marriage with the Arch-Dutchess the Emperor's Daughter having been broke off by Don John by reason 't was the Queen-Mothers Project he has desired to marry Mademoiselled ' Orleans The Circumstances of the Peace which are lately concluded at Nimiguen made him cast his Eyes towards this Princess with whose excellent Qualities Madam you are better acquainted than I. It is hard to believe that having Dispositions so far from Gallantry he should become so suddenly and vehemently in love with the Queen as he became on the only Rehearsal of her good Qualities and at the sight of her Picture in Minature which was shew'd him He never lets it go out of his Hand he always holds it to his Heart He Dialogues with it so prettily as astonishes all the Courtiers for he speaks a Language he never spoke His Passion for the Princess furnishes him with a thousand Thoughts which he dares not entrust any body with He thinks no body makes haste enough and therefore sends fresh Curriers every day to carry his Billets doux and bring hack News of her When you come to Madrid added he you will hear Madam several Particulars which have without doubt hapned since I was there and which will perhaps more satisfie your Curiosity than what I have related to you I am very much oblig'd to you answered I for your Civilities but do me the Favour to oblige me farther in giving me the true Character of the Spaniards You know them and I am perswaded nothing has escap'd your Enquiries You speaking to me without Passion and Interest I may reckon my self sure of what you tell me Why believe you Madam replied he smiling that I shall speak to you more sincerely than another There are Reasons which may render me suspected They are my Masters I must manage them And if I be not Politick enough to do it the Vexation of being constrained to obey them would tempt me to entertain Notions in their Respect contrary to Truth However it be said I interrupting him pray tell me what you know of them The Spaniards said he have always past for Fierce and Glorious This Glory is mixt with Gravity and they carry it so far that one may call it an extravagant Pride They are Brave without being Rash yet they are accused for not being daring enough They are Cholerick Revengeful without shewing any Transport Liberal without Ostentation Sober in their Diet very Presumtuous in Prosperity too Rampant in Adversity They Idolize Women they are so prepossest in their Favour that they shew no Discretion in the Choice of their Wives They are Patient to Excess Obstinate Idle Singular Philosophisers And as to the rest Men of Honour keeping their Words tho' it cost 'em their Lives They have a great deal of Wit and Vivacity easily comprehend explain themselves in the same manner and in few Words They are Prudent Jealous without measure Disinterested bad Oeconomists Close Superstitious great Catholicks at least in appearance They are good Poets and write Verses with great Facility They would be capable of Nobler Sciences would they vouchsafe to apply themselves thereto They have a Greatness of Soul Elevated Wit Constancy a Natural Seriousness and a Respect for Ladies as is not seen elsewhere They have a Set-Behaviour full of Affectation intoxicated with their own Merit hardly ever in this Particular doing Right to that of others Their Bravery consists in standing Valiantly on the Defensive Part without giving Ground and without dreading Danger but they love not to seek it which proceeds from their great Judgment They discern Danger and avoid it Their greatest Defect in my Opinion is the Passion of Revenge and the Means they use for this Their Maxims hereupon are absolutely opposite to Christianity and Honour When they have receiv'd an Affront they make him be Assassinated who has offered it They are not contented with this for they cause them to be Assassinated likewise whom they have offended in the Apprehention of being prevented knowing well that if they do not kill they shall be kill'd themselves They pretend to justifie themselves herein when they say That their Enemy having took the first Advantage they ought to secure themselves of the secend That should they fail herein they would wrong their Reputation That you must not fight with a Man that has insulted over you but put your self in a Condition
Spaniards are naturally Lazy and love to rise late and these Two were yet in Bed Her Husband gave us such a frank and civil Reception as sufficiently testifi'd how much he was pleas'd that we came to see him He went to walk in his Gardens whose Exactness yields in nothing to ours I accompanied him without delay for the Weather was very inviting and the Trees in this Country are as forward in the Month of March as they are in France at the latter end of June Indeed this is the most Charming Season for the Enjoyment of what they call La Prima Vera that is to say the Beginning of the Spring For when the Son begins to have more Force and Heat it scorches and withers the Leaves as if they had passed through Flames These Gardens of which I speak were adorn'd with Bowling-Greens Fountains and Statues and Don Augustin was not backward to shew us all the Rarities He is much taken with them and values not spending Money thereon for he is very rich He led us into a Gallery where there were divers Tables of Cedar Wood set full of Books He immediately led us up to the Biggest of them and told us they contain'd an inestimable Treasure and that there was a Collection of Plays of the best Authors Heretofore continued he Vertuous persons could not think fit to go to Plays there was nothing to be seen but Actions contrary to Modesty they heard Discourses which were offensive the Actors made honest people asham'd there Vice was flatter'd and Vertue condemn'd the Scenes became bloody with Combats the weakest was always opprest by the strongest and Custom gave continuance to Crimes But since Lopes de Vega hath so successfully labour'd to reform the Spanish Theatre there is now nothing suffer'd contrary to good Manners Both the Favourite the Footman and the Ploughman without disguise keeping to their Native Simplicity and making that pleasant by an ingenious turn find the Secrets to cure our Princes and even our Kings of that common Disease to hear Truth when their own Faults are represented It was he who gave Rules for these Ascents and who taught them to divide their Plays into Three Jornada's or Acts. Since his time we have seen flourish the Mount alvanes the Mendoza's the Rojas Alarcones the Veles the Mira de Mescuas the Coellos and the Villaizanes But above all Don Pedro Calderone excell'd as to the Serious and Grave Part and even in the Comick Part he surpass'd all those that went before him I could not forbear telling him That at Victoria I saw a Play which to me seem'd bad enough And if I might speak my Judgment freely I would not have them intermix with Holy Tragedies which require great Respect and according to their Subjects should be worthily manag'd any idle or silly Jests He reply'd That by this I had said to him he knew the Genius of my Countrey that he had seldom observ'd the French to like what the Spaniards did and as this Thought carry'd him to some displeasing Reflections I assur'd him That Naturally we have no Antipathy for any Nation That we even thought our selves oblig'd to do Justice to our Enemies And as to Plays though I had yet found none to my Fancy it did not follow but that there might be others much better and more agreeable to me The manner of my talking to him did a little compose him so that he desired me to go into his Wife's Apartment which was at the end of the Gallery Don Fernand de Tollede and the Three other Knights tarry'd there because it is not the Custom in Spain for Men to go into Womens Chambers while they are in Bed A Brother has not this Privilege unless his Sister be sick Donna Theresa receiv'd me in as kind and obliging a manner as if we had been long acquainted And this must be confess'd in praise of the Spaniards that nothing of that sort of Familiarity which comes from want of or a mean Education appears in their Entertainments for with great Civility and Earnestness they are very careful to pay what they owe to others and at the same time do not forget what 's due to themselves She was in Bed without any Coif or Cornet her Hair was parted in the middle of her Forehead ty'd behind with a Ribbon and wrapt up with Carnation-colour'd Taffety Her Shift was very fine and of so vast a largeness that it lookt like a Surplice the Sleeves were as big as Mens and button'd at the Hands with Diamonds Instead of narrow Point at the Neck and Hands she had hers wrought with Blue and Flesh-colour'd Silk in Flowers her Ruffles were of White Taffety Pinkt She had several little Pillows ty'd with Ribbons and trimm'd with very broad and fine Lace she had Basses all of Flowers of Point de Spain in Silk and Gold which lookt very pretty Her Bed was all of Copper Gilt with little Balls of Ivory and Ebony her Bed-Head was adorn'd with four Rows of little Copper Ballisters very well wrought She ask'd me leave to rise but when she came to put on her Stockings and Shooes she caus'd the Key to be taken out of the Door and that to be bolted I enquir'd the Reason of this Barricading She told me That she knew there was with me some Spanish Gentlemen and that she had rather lose her Life than they should see her Feet I broke out into Laughter and begg'd her to let me see them for that I could not apprehend that the thing was of that moment It is true indeed that for their Littleness they are something extraordinary for I have seen Children of six Years old have as great As soon as she was up she took a little Cup full of Red and with a good big Pencil she laid it on not only upon her Cheeks her Chin under Nose above her Eye-brows and the Edges of her Ears but she also be-daub'd the inside of her Hands her Fingers and her Shoulders She told me That every Night at going to Bed and every Morning at rising they laid this Colour on That she did not paint and that she was willing enough to leave the use of this Red but that it was such a General Custom that it could not be dispensed with for let one be of never so fresh a Colour they would look pale and sickly when they were near others if they did not use this Red. One of her Women perfum'd her from Head to Foot with excellent Pastils the Smoak whereof she made to ascend to her another took Orange-Flower-Water in her Mouth and dexterously through her Teeth she sprinkled it like Rain upon her and this they call Roussia She told me That there was nothing that spoil'd the Teeth more than this was of squirting it but that the Water smelt better for it Of this I doubted and I thought it very ugly that an Old Woman such as that was which I saw there should come and spurt Water
Humour They were all very well dress'd and as I have already told you they have very rich Cloaths and their Jewels are extream fine There were two Tables for the Game of Ombro at which they play'd very high and without any Noise I could not understand their Cards they are as thin as Paper and painted after a quite different way from ours One of those Cards looks as if one held a Letter when they have a good Game in Hand it were easie for a Cheating Gamester to discover several of their Cards if not the whole Game While they play'd they discours'd of News of the Court and the City Their Conversation is free and pleasant and it must needs be confess'd that they have a certain quickeness of Wit which we cannot come up to They are very kind and friendly they love to praise and do it after a gentile way very ingeniously and with great Judgment I am amaz'd to find such strength of Memory joyn'd with so great a degree of Wit and Understanding They are compassionate even almost to a fault They Read little and Write not much but yet by that little which they do Read they improve much and that little they Write is both exact and concise Their Features are very regular and delicate but their excessive leanness offends one that is not us'd to it They are of a brown Complexion and their faces very smooth The Small-Pox must needs not do them so much hurt here as in other Countries for I have seldom seen any mark'd with them Their Hair is as black as Jett and very shining notwithstanding there is cause to think that they comb long with one and the same Comb for t'other day I saw at the Merchioness of Alconnizas who is Sister to the Constable of Castille and whose first Husband was the Count and Duke of Olivares her Toylet spread and although she is one of the neatest and richest Ladies and the Toylet was laid upon a little Silver Table yet it was only furnish'd with a little bit of Callico a Looking-Glass no bigger than ones Hand two Combs and a little Box and in a small China Cup some White of an Egg beat together with Sugar-candy I ask'd one of her Women what she did with this she told me this was to take the dirt off her Face and to make it shine I have seen some whose Faces were so bright that you would wonder One would think that they were Varnish'd over and the Skin is so pull'd and rub'd that I am confident it does a great deal of hurt Most of the Women make themselves Eye-brows and they have only as 't were a little thred of Hair which in my mind looks very ugly but that which is yet worse is they comb the middle of their Foreheads so much till they make their Eye-brows meet and this with them is extream Beautiful But yet there are a great many whose Fancies do not lye this way I have seen some Spanish Women more exact to the Rules of Beauty than our French Women notwithstanding their way of dressing cross-wise and the little Advantage which they give to their faces One may say that they are like things made out of Rule for they have neither Hair nor Cornet nor any Ribbon to set them off and yet what Country can shew such Eyes as theirs They are so very sprightly and declare so much Wit and by them talk to one in a Language so kind and intelligible that if they had no other Charms these alone would make them pass for handsom Women and unavoidably steal away ones Affections Their Teeth are very even and would be white enough if they took a little care of them but they neglect them and besides their frequent use of Sugar and Chocolate does them much hurt They have all a bad Custom here the Women as well as the Men which is to pick their Teeth let them be in what Company they will This they reckon as a Diversion and do it with grave looks They do not so much as know what belongs to having them clean'd by an Artist there is no such Trade there and when they need them to be drawn out they get the Surgeons to do it if they can At my first coming in to Visit the Princess of Monteleon I was surpriz'd to see so many Young Ladies with great Spectacles on their Noses and fastned to their Ears but that which yet seem'd strangest to me was that they made no use of them where it was necessary They only discours'd while they had them on I was disturb'd at it and ask'd the Marchioness De la Rosa with whom I have contracted a dear Friendship the reason of it She 's a pretty sort of Woman and understands how to live She has a neat Wit and is a Neapolitan She fell a Laughing at my Question and told me that it was done to make them look grave that they did not wear them for any need but to draw Respect Do you see that Lady says she to me meaning one that was near us I do not believe that since she was Ten Years Old she ever left them off but when she went to Bed Without lying they both eat with them and in the Streets and Assemblies you can never fail of meeting abundance of Men and Women with their Spectacles Upon this occasion I must needs tell you continu'd she that sometime ago the Jacobite Fryars had a Suit in Law of high Importance the success of which they were too much concerned for to neglect any means One of the Young Fathers of the Convent had some Kindred of the greatest Quality which upon his Account did sollicit very hard on their behalf The Prior assur'd him that if through his Credit and Interest they should get the better of the Suit he could ask nothing that should not be granted him for an Acknowledgment At last they gain'd their Point and the Young Father transported with Joy immediately ran to tell the News and at the same time prepar'd himself to ask a Favour which a long time he had had a mighty desire to obtain But the Prior after having embrac'd him with grave looks and tone said to him Hermano ponga las Ojalas that is to say Brother put on Spectacles The Honour of this Permission filled the Young Monk with a strange Joy he thought himself and his care too highly recompens'd and had nothing else to ask The Marquess of Astorgas Vice-Roy of Naples added she had his Statue to the middle cut in Marble upon which he was very careful to cause his best Spectacles to be put It is so common a thing to wear them that I have heard there are different Spectacles according to the different Qualities and Degrees of Men and Women Proportionably as a Man's Fortune rises he increases in the largeness of his Spectacle-Glasses and wears them higher upon his Nose The Grandees of Spain wear them as broad as ones Hand which for
the Lord and his Creditors All Law-paper is mark'd and costs more than the other There 's a certain time when they make a distribution of Law-Suits they give the Instructions at Madrid but there are few judg'd there all the Papers of one side are put into a Bag and those of the other into another Bag and the Instructions into a third and when the time to distribute the Law-Suits is come they send them to some distant Parliaments so that very often one's Cause is try'd and judg'd without knowing any thing of it It is writ in a Register whether the Cause was sent which is kept very secret When Judgment is given it is sent back to Madrid and is signify'd to the Parties This Method saves a great deal of Trouble and Sollicitations which in my Opinion ought always to be forbidden As to business here it is excessive tedious whether it be at Court or in the City and ruines one in a little time The Spanish Practitioners are great Knaves in their Trade There are several different Councils all compos'd of Persons of Quality and the greatest part are Counsellors of the Sword The first is the Council of State the others are call'd the supream Council of War the Royal Council of Castille the Alcaides of Court the Council of the Holy Inquisition the Council of Orders the Sacred Supream and Royal Council of Arragon the Royal Council of the Indies the Council of the Chamber of Castille the Council of Italy the Council of the Finances the Council of the Croisado the Council of Flanders the Court for the Duty of Horse the Court for his Majesty's Woods and the Courts of the Millions They understand so little how to manage things to the best advantage that when a Father dyes and leaves ready Money and some Children under Age that they lock the Money up in a Chest and never put it out to be improv'd For Example The Duke de Frias whose Widow is marry'd to the Constable of Castille left three Daughters and six hundred thousand Crowns in ready Money they put it into three Chests with with the Name of each Daughter The Eldest was not seven years old she is now marry'd in Flanders to the Prince de Ligne The Guardians constantly kept the Keys of these Chests and never open'd that of the Eldest but to compt it to her Husband Observe what a loss there is of Interest But they tell you it would be much worse if the Principal happen'd to be lost that sometimes when one thinks they have put it securely out it proves quite otherwise That a Bankrupt makes one lose all so that it is better to gain nothing than to hazard the Pupil's Estate It is time to come to an end Dear Cousin I shall be afraid to tire you with a longer Letter I beseech you cause all those I send you to be deliver'd and pardon the freedom I take Adieu I embrace and constantly love you with all my Heart From Madrid this 27th of April 1679. The end of the Second Volume A RELATION OF A Voyage to SPAIN IN Several Letters The Last PART LETTER X. YOU did me a particular Kindness in letting me know that all my Letters come to your hands for I was a little concern'd for the Two last And since you still desire it dear Cousin I shall continue to inform you of every thing that passes and of all that I observe in this Countrey The Royal Palace is built upon a Hill which insensibly descends to the very Banks of the River call'd Mansanarez It looks several ways upon the Country which is very pleasant there One goes to it through the Callemayor that is to say the Great Street which indeed is both very long and broad several considerable Houses add to its Beauty There 's a large open place before the Palace no body of what Quality soever is allow'd to come with a Coach into the Court but they stop under the great Arch of the Porch except it be when Bonefires are made there or when there are Masquerades and then Coaches go in a very small number of Halbardeers stand at the Gate upon my asking why so great a King had so small a Guard why Madam says a Spaniard to me Are not we all his Guards He reigns too absolutely in the Hearts of his Subjects either to fear any thing or distrust them The Palace stands at the end of the City towards the South it is built of very white Stone Two Pavillions compleat the Front the rest is not regular Behind it there are two square Courts each consisting of four sides the first is adorn'd with two great Terrass-walks which run quite through they are rais'd upon high Arches and are beautified with Ballisters and Statues That which I observ'd very singular was that the Womens Statues had Red upon their Cheeks and Shoulders you go through fine Porches which bring you to the Stair-case which is extream large the Apartments are furnisht with excellent Pictures admirable Tapistry most rare Statues stately Houshold Goods and in a word with every thing suitable to a Royal Palace But there are divers of the Rooms dark I saw some which had no Window and receiv'd Light only when the Door open'd those which have Windows are but little lighter because of their smallness they alledge that the Heat is so excessive that they are willing to hinder the Sun from coming in as much as they can But there 's yet another Reason for Glass is very scarce and dear and as to other Houses there are many which have Windows without any Glass and when they would describe a compleat House they 'll tell you in one word that 't is Glaz'd This want of Glass does not appear without because of the Latices The Palace is addorn d with divers gilt Balconies which indeed look very fine All the Councils sit there and when the King has a mind to be present he passes through certain Galleries and little Entries unperceiv'd There 's a great many People perswaded that the Castle of Madrid which Francis the Fifth caus'd to be built near the Wood of Bologn was after the Model of the King of Spain's Palace but 't is a mistake and nothing is less alike The Gardens are not suitable to the Dignity of the Place they are neither large enough nor so well improv'd as they should be the Ground as I have observ'd reaches to the very Brink of Mansanarez the whole is inclos'd with Walls and if these Gardens have any Beauty they owe it purely to Nature They work hard to get the Young Queens Apartment ready for her Reception all her Servants are nam'd and the King expects her with the greatest Impatience The Buen Retiro is a Royal House near one of the Gates of the City the Count Duke caus'd at first a little house to be built there and call'd it Galinera it was for keeping his rare Poultry in which had been presented to him and
Events of things although they may seem to be alike and in the same Circumstances and that what without the imputation of rashness might have been undertaken 120 years ago under a flourishing Reign would be impudent to practise now under a Reign that is far less so but a vanity that is natural to them hinders them from seeing that Providence sometimes permits Empires as well as particular Families to have their Revolutions and Periods The Spaniards believe themselves to be just the same People and in the same Circumstances they ever were but though I never knew their Ancestors yet I dare say they deceive themselves But not to make any farther Reflexions which perhaps are too serious and high for me I will tell you that here 's a general rejoycing at Madrid for the arrival of the Flota from the Indies As 't is not their humour here to treasure up Wealth so this prodigious quantity of Silver which comes all at a lump is spread over all the World One would think that these immense Summs cost nothing and that it is Money which chance sent them Hereupon the great Lords summon their Creditors and pay them with a profuseness which yet without lying has something in 't that is both noble and very generous for there are but few Countries where Liberality is so natural as 't is in this and I must also add that they are patient even to admiration They have been known to endure most long and toilsome Sieges in which besides the Fatigues of War they had nothing to support them but Bread made of rotten Corn and stinking Water for their Drink and yet there are no Men in the World more nice about good Water I say notwithstanding all this and that they have been expos'd to the Severities of the Weather were half naked and had hard Lodging yet in spight of all these things they have been found more brave and couragious than when they enjoy'd Plenty and Prosperity It is true that that Temperance which is so natural to them is a mighty help to them to endure hunger when they are forc'd to it they eat very little and scarcely will they drink any Wine The Custom they have of eating all alone contributes something to make them so frugal for indeed neither their Wives nor their Children ever eat with them The Master has his Table to himself and the Mistress with her Children sit on the Floor upon a Carpet after the Turkish and Moorish way They seldom or never invite their Friends to feast together so that they are not guilty of any excess Upon this account it is their saying That they only eat to live whereas there are People which only live to eat Nevertheless there are some rational People which find this affectation too great and as they admit of little familiarity in Conversation so they perpetually live at a distance and as 't were in Ceremony with one another without enjoying that freedom which makes that true Union and produces that desirable openness of Heart This great Retirement gives them up to a thousand Illusions which they call Philosophy it makes them singular dull fantastick melancholy and jealous whereas if they govern'd themselves otherwise there 's nothing they would not be capable of since they have a wonderful vigour of Mind an excellent Memory good Sense a solid Judgment and great Patience than which there needs no more to make a Man wise to grow in Perfection to be agreeable in Conversation and to distinguish himself from the most polite Nation But they are so far from being what naturally they might be though at never so little pains that they affect a certain Indolency which they call greatness of Mind they neglect their most important business and the advancement of their Fortunes Provision for the future gives them not the least disturbance the only matter they are not indifferent in is Jealousie they improve that to the utmost the bare suspicion is enough to make them stab their Wife or their Mistress Their Passion of Love is always furious and yet the Women please themselves in it they say they would not for all the mischief that may befall them have them less sensible of their unfaithfulness that their desperate Temper is a certain proof of a true Passion and that they themselves are not more moderate when they are in Love They leave nothing unattempted to be reveng'd of those they love if they forsake them without cause so that these sort of amorous Engagements have commonly a fatal end For instance not long since a Woman of Quality who had cause to complain of her Gallant contriv'd to get him into a House where she commanded and after she had sufficiently reproach'd him against which he did but weakly defend himself for he was guilty she presented to him a Ponyard and a Cup of poyson'd Chocolate leaving him only the liberty which sort of Death he would choose He did not waste one minute to move her pitty he very well saw that in this Place she was the strongest so that he tamely drank off the Chocolate without leaving a drop After he had drunk it says he to her it had been better if you had put a little more Sugar in 't for the Poyson made it very bitter remember to do so the next time you prepare another He was immediately seiz'd with Convulsions it was very violent Poyson and kill'd him in an hours time and for all this Lady still lov'd him passionately yet she had the barbarity not to stir from him till he was dead The Venetian Ambassador who is a very well accomplish'd Man being lately at home they brought him word that a Lady cover'd with a Mantle desir'd to speak with him and that she hid her self so close they could not possibly see what she was she had with her two Gentlemen Ushers and a considerable Attendance He invited her to his Chamber of Audience and she desir'd he would cause every body to go out When she was alone with him she unveil'd her self and appear'd to him extream handsom I am of an Illustrious Family says she to him my Name is Donna Blanca de Gusman I have despis'd all the Laws of Decency in Favour of that Passion I have for you I came to declare it to you my Lord and to tell you that I must needs remain here this Night From such an impudent Speech the Ambassador could not in the least doubt that this was some Tilt that had borrow'd a great Name to draw him into some Snare but yet with abundance of kindness he told her that till now he had never thought himself unhappy in the Service of the Republick that he could wish he were not an Ambassador that so he might embrace the Favour she offer'd him but that being in such a Station there was little likelihood that he could give Entertainment to a Person of her Eminent Quality that this might bring him into great trouble and therefore
beg'd her that she would withdraw Immediately she was like a Fury and after she had revil'd and reproach'd him she drew out a Stilletto and run upon him to have stab'd him He easily prevented her and having call'd one of his Gentlemen bid him give five or six Pistols to this Woman She so little deserv'd this Generosity and it so appeas'd her that she really told him she was one of those Creatures he took her for and that the reason why she had been so desperate was that the Gentlemen Ushers who waited for her below were her Gallants and would have broke her bones if she had made no advantage of the Plot they had laid and that besides she was to pay for the Equipage she came in which was hir'd purposely for this design and that she had much rather have dy'd than to have endur'd all those Abuses The Ambassador was so taken with her pleasant Confession that he caus'd ten Pistols more to be given her for says he to her since so many honest Folks must share with you your part will be too small She succeeded so well here that she went directly to the French Embassadors but she was not so courteously receiv'd there For upon the first Apprehension of her Design she and her Attendance escapt very narrowly of being entertain'd with the Strapado He gave her not a Sons happy was she that got out as she came in for he had an aversion for all these Creatures This Morning we tarried a while in the Placa Mayor for an Answer of a Message my Kinswoman had sent to a Gentleman that dwelt there In this Place Fish is sold and there was a Woman which had some little bits of Salmon to sell which she said was fresh she made a horrid noise in crying it and in calling Customers to buy it at last comes a Shooemaker which I knew for such because she call'd him Sinior Capatcro he ask her for a Pound of her Salmon and by the way you must observe that every thing here is bought by the pound even Wood and Charcoal says she to him You do not enquire after the price because you think 't is cheap but do not deceive your self I assure you I must have a Crown for every pound The Shoomaker vext that she questioned his thoughts and ability with an angry tone said to her had it been very cheap I would have had but one pound but since 't is dear I 'll have three and immediately he gives her three Crowns and then thrusting down his little Hat for you must know that the Tradesmen wear them as narrow as the People of Quality wear them broad and turning up his Mustachios by way of Rodamentade he rais'd the point of his formidable Sword almost to the top of his shoulder and haughtily lookt at us having well observ'd that we took notice of him and overheard his Discourse and were Strangers but the pleasantness of the thing lies here perhaps these three Crowns was all that ever this vain-glorious Fool had in the World that this was his whole Weeks profit and that to morrow himself his Wife and poor Children would have a more severe Fast than with Bread and Water but such is the vain humour of these People here nay there are some of them which will take the legs of a Capon and will let them hang down under their Cloaks that they may look as if they really had a Capon whilst they have nothing but the Legs and Feet You cannot see a Joyner a Sadler or other sort of Shop-keeper without his Velvet and Sattin Suit like the Kings with his long Rapier and Dagger and his Guattar hung up in his Shop They work as little as ever they can for I have more than once told you that they are naturally lazy Indeed nothing but over-ruling Necessity drives them to do any thing at all and then they work upon Sundays and other Festivals without any scruple as well as upon any other Day and afterwards they carry their Goods abroad If 't is a Shoomaker and he has two Prentices he takes them both with him and each of them carry a Shooe nay if he has three they must all go along with him and 't is with much ado that he 'll stoop to try the Shooes he made when he has done he goes and sits him down in the Sun which is call'd the Spaniard's Fire with a Company of such idle Fellows as himself and there with a sovereign Authority they determine matters of State and settle the Interest of Princes very often they fall out about them some one of them that takes himself to be a more able Politician than the rest will have them yield to his Judgment but another as conceited as himself will not submit and so they fall together by the Ears without Mercy I was two days ago to see the Danish Embassador's Lady and there was brought in thither a poor Wretch which was just then wounded in the Street he was a Costermonger and it seems had maintain'd that the Grand Senior would not be reckoned a cunning Politician if he did not cause his Brother to be strangled another to whom that young Prince was not so displeasing stood up in his defence and thereupon these two fell a fighting but after all to give them their due all these People talk of Government and Politicks with a great deal of Judgment and give good Reasons for what they say Here is in this City several Houses which are a sort of Academies where People meets some to Play and others for Conversation They play there with great honesty and let them lose what Sum they will upon Honour they never fail to pay it in twenty four hours If there should be any failure their Honour and Reputation is for ever lost No Reason whatsoever will be admitted against the necessity of paying in that time They play there very high and very fairly without noise or shewing the least vexation or concern If they win it is the Custom to give the Barato this I think is also us'd in Italy that is to say you give Money to those that are present to some more to others less and this whether you know them or no. He to whom you present the Barato must never refuse it let him be a hundred times richer and better Quality than the Donour nay one may demand it of a Gamester that is winning and he 'll not deny to give it There are People that have no other Subsistance than this but yet this is no good Custom for though a Man does win yet sometimes he hardly carries any thing of his gains away with him and if he begins to play again he often loses his own Further if a Man is found to have cheated he has as good betimes to forsake all Company for no honest Person will have any thing to do with him and if he is taken in the fact he may think himself happy if
shall be fixt upon the Altar and the Dominicans only shall remain upon the Theater and spend part of the Night in Singing Psalms and as soon as day breaks they shall celebrate several Masses upon the Altar The King the Queen and the Queen-Mother and all the Ladies must be in their Balconies about seven a Clock in the Morning at eight the Procession shall begin to march as it did the day before by the company of Charcoal-men who shall place themselves on the left hand of the King's Balcony the right shall be for his Guards Afterwards several Men shall bear certain Past-board Effigies as big as Life some of them representing those that dy'd in Prison whose Bones shall also be carry'd in Coffers with Flames painted round them and the rest shall represent those who have escap'd and who have been condemn'd for Contumacy These Figures shall be placed at one end of the Theater After that their Sentance shall be read and they shall be executed But I should tell ye added he That the Supream Council of the Inquisition is more absolute than all the others It is believ'd that the King himself has not Power to release those which shall be accus'd before it because this Tribunal acknowledges the Pope only to be above it and that there has been a time when upon some occasions the King's Power was found too weak to contend with that of the Inquisition Don Diego Sarmiento is Inquisitor General He is a mighty honest and good Man and is about threescore Years of age The King nominates the President of the Inquisition and his Holiness confirms him But as for the Inquisitors the President proposes them to the King and after he has approv'd of them he then puts them in their Places This Tribunal takes Cognizance of every thing concerning the Faith and it is absolutely invested both with the Pope's and and the King's Authority there 's no appealing from its Judgment and the two and twenty Tribunals of the Inquisition which are in all the Estates of Spain and which depend upon this at Madrid every Month render an Account to it of their Finances and Revenues and every Year of their Causes and Criminals But those of the Indies and the other distant Places only give an Account at the end of every Year As to the Places of these inferior Tribunals they are fill'd by the General Inquisitors with the Approbation of the Counsellors It would be pretty difficult to be able precisely to reckon up the number of the Officers which belong to the Inquisition for in Spain alone there 's above two and twenty thousand Familiars of the Holy Office They are call'd by this Name because they are as 't were Spies scatter'd up and down every where which are continually giving true or false Informations to the Inquisition upon which those are seiz'd and taken up which they accuse Whilst with the greatest Attention I was listening to Don Fernand the Marchioness De Palacios interrupted us to let us know that we were come near Tolleda and that certain old Ruines of an ancient Castle which we saw upon our left hand were those of an enchanted Palace I seem'd to Don Fernand to doubt of what she affirm'd upon which he said you may think what you please but certain it is that there 's for it a very ancient Tradition in this Country and moreover they pretend that there is a Cave shut up and a Prophesie which threaten'd Spain with the greatest Miseries when ever this Cave was open'd Every body terrify'd with this threat had no mind to draw upon themselves the sad Effects so that this place did for several Ages remain very close But Don-Rodrigue the King less credulous or more curious caus'd it to be open'd upon which there were heard most terrible Noises every body thought that the very Elements themselves were going into confusion there was so violent a Tempest This did not hinder him from going into it where by light of several Elamboys he saw the Figures of divers Men whose Cloaths and Arms were very strange There was one held a Copper Blade in his hand and upon it was writ in Arabick that the Time drew near for the Dissolation of Spain and that the Persons whose Statues were there would ere long come I never was in any place said I smiling where they rely'd so much on fabulous Tales as they do in Spain Say rather replied he that there never was any Woman so incredulous as you and in telling you this Story I did not think I should alter your Judgment But as much as one can be assur'd of a thing by the Testimony of Men this Story is credible It was now light enough very plainly to observe all the Charms of the Country We past the Tagus over a very great and fine Bridge of which I had heard and a little after discover'd Tolleda all surrounded with Hills and Rocks which command it There are very neat Houses built amongst those Hills design'd for the pleasure of Solitude The Arch-bishop of Tolleda has one there whether he goes often The City stands upon the Rock the unevenness of which in divers places contributes to make it high and low the Streets are narrow ill pav'd and troublesome which is the reason that all the People of Quality go there either in Chairs or Litters And as we were in a Coach we took up our Quarters in the Placa Mayor because that is only the part to which one can pass with a Coach as soon as we were arriv'd we alight at the Hospital of Foira which stands in the Suburbs whose Building consists of three Sides within which is a great square Court and the Church makes up the fourth side and there we heard Mass This Hospital was built by an Arch-bishop of Tolleda whose Monument and Statue in Marble are in the midst of the body of the Church The Walls of the City were rebuilt by the Moors on the Sides stands a great many little Towers which heretofore serv'd to defend it And it would be astrong Place being almost encompast with the Tagus and having extream deep Ditches did not the adjacent Hills command it from whence it were easie to batter it down It was not eight a Clock when we got thither and we would spend the rest of the Morning in seeing the Church which as 't is said is the finest in Europe The Spaniards call it Holy whether 't is upon the Account of the Relicks which are there or for some other reason which they did not tell me I know not If it was as long and as high as 't is broad it would be much better It is beautify'd with divers Chappels as big as Churches they all shine with Gold and Paintings the chief of which are those of the Virgin St. James St. Martin Cardinal Sandoual and the Connestable De Luna In the Quire I saw a Niche or hollow place from whence 't is pretended there issued out