Towns and first of Daulis shewing That it lieth East of Delphos and then mentioning part of a Verse in Homer 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 c. he saith That some interpret those words of the Poet of the Cypress Trees and others of a Village under Lycoria bearing that Name Now Lycoria being the highest Top of Parnassus and Racovi lying directly under it my Opinion is rather That Racovi is the same Town with the antient Cyparissus Again I know not for what reason either Cyparissus or Racovi should be thought the same with Amphryssus For Didymus in his Note upon this Place of Homer saith That Cyparissus is a Town of Phocis called so either from Cyparissus Brother of Orchomenus or from the multitude of those Trees growing thereabouts but he saith nothing of its being the same with Amphryssus Pausanias seems rather to apply that of Homer to Anticyrrha which yet he makes different from Amphryssus for he mentions it expresly as situated between Stiria and Anticyrrha And though he may seem to place it even under Parnassus yet it is not in this narrow Passage of the Mountain where Racovi standeth but rather in the Plain between the Mountains which he therefore calleth The * 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Territory and Plain of Amphryssus Nor does the Distance agree between Racovi and Stiri that now is and Stiria and Amphryssus of Pausanias For we were from before day till past Noon going between those two Places and I believe travelled as much more Ground as Pausanias his Sixty Stadia come to which make but seven Miles and a half whereas I cannot judge it less than a dozen or fifteen Miles from Racovi to Stiri Besides Pausanias makes no mention of Amphryssus in his way between Chaeronea and Delphos which he makes by Panopeus and Daulis and thence into the way call'd Schistis which way can no where so probably be conceived to be as here between the Mountain Parnassus and Cirphis if we either consult the Place it self or the Etymology of the Word which imports Division or separating things asunder It is in this way that Racovi standeth about four Miles from Castri and I believe more from Daulis now called Dalia Eastwards He saith moreover That one going from Amphryssus to Anticyrrha must ascend Two Stadia But from Racovi is no Ascent but up the Mount Parnassus Every way towards the Seaward there is first a considerable Descent But to proceed The next Morning we parted from Racovi by Day-break and descended yet further half an hour upon the Brow of Parnassus by near as ill a way as we had passed the day before in coming to it only we kept still forward and did not return backward and forward At last we came to the bottom between the Mountains from whence is yet a Descent two ways both towards the South-East and North-West As we passed I observ'd abundance of Springs to issue out of the Mountain and collect themselves in the bottom between Cirphis and Parnassus some of them running towards the Gulph of Salona or Crissa by the Towns Castri and Crissa making the River Pleistus whose Fountain ariseth in this bottom not a Bow-shot from another Spring which runs contrary to it to wit towards Livadia and so to the Lake Copais Hence we yet descended still South-East by the way Schistis between the two Mountains but much better than before along this last Stream which grew bigger and sometimes lost it self among the Stones and Gravel I believe it was antiently called Triton TRITON which with the River Melas did take their Rise in the Phocaean Mountains Two hours riding from Racovi we came into a Plain between those Mountains which Pausanias takes notice of for their being so well planted with Vines and a certain Shrub like to Rhamnus which the Ionians he saith call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which without doubt is no other than the Ilex Cocci-glandifera of the Grains of which Scarlet Colour is made and Confection of Alkermes and the same that Dioscorides calleth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 I did not take particular notice of its growing here having already observ'd it upon Mount Parnassus and abundance of other Places all over Greece But Pausanias saith That it was here particularly cultivated and set among the Vines and in the same Order with them by the Amphrysians The Mountains that encompass this Plain are Parnassus North and North-East Cirphis West Helicon East and South with some other high craggy Rocks South and South-West making the Eastern side of the Bay of Asprositi Where I believe Anticyrrha was formerly and thence the Promontory Pharygion But of this more hereafter When we were come into this Plain we left the way to Livadia and turned to the right hand Southward and near our way also on the right hand we found an old Town destroyed with two old Churches and a Castle all lying in Ruins In one of the Churches within a Niche by the Altar is an Inscription but so worn out we could not make any thing of it I suppose this was Amphryssus For it is between Stiria and Asprospiti which I guess to be Anticyrrha agreeing with Pausanias his Description Returning to our way we came to another Stream which runneth towards the Triton but is swallowed up by a Passage under ground in its way as I observed returning from St Luca the last time About the middle of the Plain we crossed a way that goeth from Asprospiti to Livadia and so proceeding we left a Village as my Companion saith called Stiri and came to a Desart Place by a narrow way with Precipices on each side which by little and little enlargeth it self into a good big Hill like a Peninsula having a deep Valley almost round about bounded by the high Cliffs of the Mountain Zagara as they now call the Helicon encompassing both this Hill and the Valley about it with Tops covered with Snow as high as the Clouds Upon the Brow of this Hill on the South-East-side St. LUCE STIRIA is situated the Convent of St Luke sirnamed Stiriotes from this Hill so called also They do not mean St Luke the Evangelist but another a Hermite of this Desart which we found by the Office we saw and they use in their Church where the Title of Stiriotes is given him This is one of the finest Convents in all Greece and consists ordinarily of above a Hundred and fifty Persons of which some they call Hieromonachi who are in Orders and only attend upon the Service of God and some other Employment in their Cells as knitting of Caps and other necessary Affairs The Seniors of these have a young one to wait on them whom they teach to write and read and to say his Office If he have any Ingenuity he proceeds to understand to say their Liturgies c. The others are called Caloiros and are employed about all servile and necessary Offices about the Convent some of them tilling the Ground
Blew VVhite and Red. Thus all our great preparations for fight ended in amicable salutes to each other expressed by sound of Trumpets Drums and Cannon Our Admiral carried the Banner of Saint Mark upon his Main-Top-Mast as Capitan Denavi which is the highest Charge at Sea under this State And therefore it fell to the Hollanders share to come by our Lee and salute first Their Admiral was young De Ruiter who only as Vice-Admiral of that Squadron carried his Flag on the Top-Mast head His Ship passed first and all the rest in order after him saluting which we still answered with the same respect After which De Ruiter sent two Officers to complement the Capitan Denavi and so took leave of us We were becalmed that night so that we found our selves next morning in the same Gulph still opposite to Corone But a moderate gale arising with the Sun not long after we doubled the Cape Metapan called in old time Promontorium Taenarium The Bay beyond it is called Brazza Dimagnio from the City Magnia situated at the bottom thereof The Magnoti who are the Inhabitants of that Country are famous Pirates by Sea and Pestilent Robbers by Land They have always bravely defended themselves against the Turks and maintained their Liberty till lately by this stratagem the Turks were too hard for them They got their consent to build two Forts upon their Coasts which they did so advantageously as soon made them Masters of their City and them And now none of them are exempted from paying Tribute but a few in the Mountains And some have quit their Country and are retired into Ponglia where the King of Spain hath assigned them an habitation They are naturally such Thieves that when any Vessel cometh into their Harbour they will go by night and cut the Cables of their Ships when they can find nothing else to lay hold of which sometimes endangers the Vessels running a shore when not discover'd in time Some Mariners of this place that were on board of us gave us this account of their Country with many diverting Stories of the same nature which they glory in One of the Officers of our Ship who had been at the Town related a Story that well expresseth their Thieving nature Some strangers being at one of the Villages of these Magnoti caused their Baggage to be brought into an old Womans house whilst they baited themselves and their Horses But soon after their Hostess fell bitterly a weeping The strangers surprized at it began to enquire the reason Then one of them answering for her said That perhaps it was because the sight of other Country-men put her in mind of the miserable estate of the Magnoti were reduced unto But she made them this short reply and told them it was false her weeping was because her Son was not at home to rob them of their baggage Such pleasant Conferences as these made our time seem less tedious whilst our slow passing of this Gulph made it the Fourth day from Zant to Cerigo Cerigo hath the Morea North of it CERIGO and was called anciently Cithaera famous for being the Native Country of Venus and Helena So that were we to frame an Idea of this place from the fame of these Beauties we might imagine it one of the most charming places of the World But on the contrary the greatest part of it is a barren rocky and Mountainous Soil ill peopled and can brag of no plenty neither of Corn Wine nor Oyl which undoubtedly made Venus change her own Country for Cyprus and Helena so willing to be stollen and carried into the pleasant Plains of the Continent What Beauties it now produceth I am ignorant of for I remember not that I saw a Woman there It s plenty consists in Mutton and Fowls as Turtles Venus beloved Birds Quails and Partridges Abundance of Hares and Falcons breed here but the people for what I could understand addict not themselves to Hawking The chief Town and Fort lieth on the South-side of the Island strong only towards the Sea on which it looketh from a Precipice Under it is a Harbour but open to the Southerly VVinds. Upon our entry into the Port whether by neglect or unskilfulness of our Captain we ran foul of another Ship of our company and if we did not endanger did at least considerable damage to both It hath about three or four miles South a little Rock called the Ovo or Egg the top of which they say is covered with Scorzonera and is inhabited only by Falcons that breed there From the Fort also is to be seen Cerigotto another little Island inhabited only by VVild Goats It belonged to Colonel Macarioti who served in Candia before it was taken He is reported to have behaved himself at that Siege very gallantly He made us taste of very good VVine of Cerigo where he now liveth From Cerigo in clear and fair weather Candia may be seen beyond Cerigotto This Island is still under the Dominion of the Venetians who send a Proveditor thither Our Vessel parted hence before the rest to take in fresh water at Port Saint Nicolo which lieth on the East-side of this Island and is undoubtedly that for which Strabo saith The Island hath a good Harbour there being beside the Harbour for great Vessels a natural Creek in the Rocks large enough for Forty Gallies which may easily be tied together and secured from without with a Chain Near the Shore here digging you have very good VVater which is indeed from a little Rivolet that in the heat of Summer seems perfectly dry in the Channel but still preserves it self some three foot under the ground VVe found ancient Ruins near this place which we took to be the Ruins of Menelaus his City in old time King of this Isle They are almost level with the ground Among these Ruins are some Grotto's cut out of the Rock which one of the Island pretending to be an Antiquary assured us were anciently the Baths of Helena affirming that her Palace was not above three or four miles from thence on the Hills VVe took this Antiquary for our guide and went to see what we could find of it But all we discover'd were two Pillars standing upright but without Chapitars and the Bases so deep in the ground that we could not judge of what order they were They were neither Chanell'd nor altogether plain but their Fusts cut into Angles about the breadth of an usual Channel and that not the whole length of their Fusts but some proportionable part only I rather believe it to have been some ancient Temple than a Palace They now call the place Paleo-Castro or Old Castle The situation of it is such that it looketh over the best part of the Island having a good fruitful Valley on the VVest and another not barren on the East toward the Sea-side I went up a little higher a simpling but discerning the rest of our Fleet under Sail and our Ship
ΤΗÎΤΕ ΜΗÎΑÎΔΡΟΠΕΙΚΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΑΠΔΡΟÎΕΙΚΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΣΤΡΑΤΟÎΕΙ ΚΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΜΗÎΟΙΕÎΟΥΣ ΤΩΠΘΡΕΨΑÎΤΩΠΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠBy another Inscription there we learned Id. Mar. 1. Id. Mar. 8. Id. Mar. 2. That there was a Temple dedicated to Diana the Goddess most devoutly adored by all the Asiaticks Lib. III. ΤΗΣ ΠΟΛΕΩΣ ΓΥÎΑΣΙΑΡΧΟΥ By another that there was a Gymnasium and a chief Governour of the Schools Lib III IMP. CAESAR Vâ—SPASIANVS AVG. PONTIF MAX. TRIB POT VI. IMP. XIII COS. VI. DESIG VII CENSOR VIAS FACIENDAS CVRAVIT ΛΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΩΡ ΟΥ ΕΣΠΑΣΙΑÎΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣ ΤΟΣ ΑΡΧΙΕΡΕΥΣ ΜΕΓΙΣΤΟΣΨΞ ΔΗΜΑΡΧΙΚΗΣ ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΣ Ψ Ξ ΑΥΤΟΚΑΤΩΡ Α. Τ. ΙΤ. ΠΑΤΗΡ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΟΣ-ΥΠΑΤΟΣ ΤΖ ◠ΛΠΟΔΕΔΕΜΕÎΟΣ Ψ-Σ ΤΕΙΜΗΣΗ ΤΑΣ ΟΔΟΥΣ ΕΠΟΙ ΗΣΕΠUpon a Pillar in the Kan that the Emperour Vespasian had here ordered their ways to be made the sixth Year of his Consulship And out of Consul Ricaut's Remarks an Inscription shewed That the Emperour Severus was honoured by the very great City of Thyatira Both which made me believe That they did but flatter the Emperour Caracalla in calling him their Founder or Restorer Perhaps it was because he granted them some Priviledges they before wanted This Town is well water'd and hath little Rivulets running in several Streets Here are seven Mosques one of them a Christian shewed us and told us It had been a Christian Church The point of its Minoret is broken and the reason that they give is That it having been a Christian Church God will not suffer it to stand For it hath been several times built or set up and as often suddenly thrown down On the out-side were shewed us two Inscriptions Here are also two Kans in one of which we lodged being of one story sustained by thirty Marble Pillars of divers Proportions and Orders whose curious wrought Capitals are now become their Pedestals Some of the Corinthian Order were carved with Leaves on the Fusts as well as the Capitals partly chanelled and partly carved like those you may see in the Front of the Temple at Milasso being a kind of Ornament not ordinary And as to such leased Pillars Mr. Galante Antiquary to the French King gives my Comrade this his Remark There is a Chiosque or Pavilion near Ingerliqui on the Bosphorus towards the Black Sea built by Sultan Solyman the Foundation of which consists of many Pillars amongst the rest one of about a foot and half Diameter of which is seen not above two foot of the end towards the Base boulting out of the Foundation in imitation of Canons as the rest do But this is particularly remarkable for the carving towards the Base with Vine Branches mixed with Figures of several sorts of Creatures as Beetles and Snails with two Masques and a Vessel full of Grapes trodden by three Men all excellent work Without doubt this was taken from the Temple of Bacchus of which Petrus Gillius maketh mention in his Description of Constantinople For speaking of the Pillars he saith thus Capitula inferiorum Echinos habent circumdantes imam partem reliqua pars est tota vestita foliis But he had not observed them very nearly By a Fountain hard by this Kan I observed a Basso-relievo of Plenty and a Pedestal of a Statue great part in the ground which we had not time to dig up and see whether it had an Inscription upon it But some Figures were on the sides The other is a lesser but a better Kan of two Stories The Town is well served with ordinary Provisions They make a great deal of Cotton here and send it to Smyrna which from hence is but two small days Journeys In our way thither I observed among the Spanish Broom and other Shrubs that which Casp Bauhinus calleth Spartium alterum monospermum and Pseudo-spartium Hispanicum Aphyllon Bastard Spanish Broom PLANTS AT THYATIRA Here I saw another in the ploughed Ground in the Plains and elsewhere The Doctor called it Thapsus minor longifolio and told me It was the only Remedy the People used there in all Diseases The Leaves are something in shape like a Sage-Leaf but thick-cover'd with a bright silver Hair like Plush The Flowers I saw not but I esteem it rather to be reduced to the Sideritis than Thapsus or rather a kind of Stachys For I think it to be the same I gathered at Tine with Stalks and Seeds The next Morning October the twentieth two hours before day we left Thyatira guiding our course South-West-wards and had almost lost our way a little out of the Town in the dark and a quaggy wet Ground But in about two hours time we foorded a little River near a Bridge among the Stones of which one was a Marble whereon the Name of Tiberius Caesar was engraven and not a stones cast further another River doubtless part of the same Stream both running North-wards from thence I believe to seek the Caicus towards Pergamus Thence we passed over a Plain about four or five Miles every way over and came to a Hill whence we had the Prospect of the spacious Plains of Magnesia bounded with Mount Sipylus South-wards at the foot of which we discerned the City it self near five hours before we came to it A very little more to the East we saw Mount Pinolus by which is Sardis This Plain is counted fifty or sixty Miles long from East to West and near about fifteen broad It is famous in the Roman History by the glorious Victory of Lucius Scipio over Antioohus T. Livius lib. 57. cap. 58. who therefore deservedly bare the Title of Asiaticus and therein equalized himself with his Brother who was for the like Atchievement called Africanus I have it in a Roman Coin lately given me among several others by my worthy Friend John Robinson Esquire which hath on one side the Head of an old Man crowned with Letters defaced and on the other an Elephant by which is represented Asia and above is plainly to be read SCIPIO and under the Elephant IMP. for Imperator We baited at a Turk's Country-house something beyond the middle of the Plain and about two hours after arrived at Magnesia about three in the Afternoon after we had passed the Hermus a considerable River near a Mile from it leaving on both sides of its Chanel a deep moory Ground which would be impassable unless the way were cast up and trenched on each side Magnesia still retains its antient Name MAGNESIA There were two of them the one called Magnesia ad Meandrum or upon the River Meander the other ad Sipylum Magnesia at Mount Sipylus at the foot of which on the North-West side it is fituate This is to be seen in many antient Monuments and Coins as in one I found at Smyrna in the Armenian Church yard the Sepulchral Monument of one Tatias Son of Herothemus ΜΑΓÎΗΤΙΣΑΠΟ ΣΙΠΥΛΟΥ a Magnesian at Sipylus ΤΑΤΙΑΣ ΗΡΟΘΕΜΙΔΟΣ ΜΑΓÎΗΤΙΣ ΑΠΟ ΣΙΠΥΛΟΥ ΖΩΣΑ ΚΑΤΩ ΥΙΟΩ ΤΩ ΚΑΤΟΙΧΟΜΕÎΩ ΛΥΣΑÎΙΑ ΛΥΣΑΚΑΙ ΤΩ ΠΑΤΡΙ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΛΥΣ The Tomb was adorned with Wreaths
North-ward after having spoken of Halicarnassus the Island Coos and some other Places along the Shore Jassus followeth saith he situate in an Island over against the Continent They have a Harbour and seek their Living out of the Sea For the Place aboundeth with Fish and their Land is barren Whether now it abounds with Fish or no is uncertain there being no People to catch them But of them of old time Strabo telleth this pretty Story A Musician one day shewing his Skill publickly was for a while attended to by the whole Town to wit until the Signal was given for the time of selling Fish which was no sooner heard but they all left him except one Man that was somewhat deaf who not hearing the Signal staid till all was ended Then the Musician coming to him with great Thanks complements him That he was so great a Favourer of his Art that he alone would stay to hear him when all the rest immediately left him at the first sound of the Bell. How answered the Deaf Man hath it then rung Yes said the Musician Adieu to you then replied he hasting away without further Complement The Land about it by their Draught of it seems to be rocky and barren Ground There are yet the Remains of an Aqueduct that brought them Water from the North-side of the Bay and towards the Cape are several curious Marble Tombs on one of which is an Inscription shewing it to be the Burying Place of Lysimachus not him of the time of Alexander the Great but some other of the times of the Roman Emperours who built that Monument to him and his Children Issue and Kinsman Leon called Jason the Milesian but by nature of Jasus And if any other durst be so bold to bury there he should pay Fifteen hundred Denaria to the Emperours Custom-house and One to that Place ΑΓΑΘΗΣ ΜΕΤΑΒΟΛΗΣ ΤΟΥΤΟ ΤΟ ÎœÎΗΜΕΙΟΠΛΥΣΙΜΑΧΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΤΕ ΤΡΑΚΙΣ ΣΤΟΙΒΑΣ ΤΟΥΤΟΥ ΜΕΘΕΞΟΥΣΙΜΟΥ ΤΑ ΤΕΚÎΑ ΛΥΣΙΜΑΧΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΥΑΡΤΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΕΞ ΑΥΤΩΠΓΕÎÎΗΘΕΣΑΜΕÎΑ ΤΕΚÎΑ ΩΣΤΕ ΚΑΙ ΓΟÎΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ Ο ΓΑΜΒΡΟΣ ΜΟΥ ΛΕΩΠΑΡΤΕΜΕΙΣ ΙΟΥ Ο ΕΠΙΚΑΛΟΥΜΕΠΟΣ ΙΑΣΩΠΟ .... ÎΕΙΜΕΠΜΕΙ ΛΗΣΙΟΣ ΦΥΣΕΙΔΕ ΙΑΣΕΥΣ ΤΟΥΤΟ ΔΕ ΕΤΕΡΟΣ ΟΥΔ ΕΙΣ ΜΕΘΕΞ ..... ΤΕΣ ΣΥÎΓΟÎΕΥΣ ΜΟΥ ΟΥΤΕ ΕΞΩΤΙ ΚΟΣ ΤΙΣ ΕΙ ΜΗ ΤΙ ΕΤΕΡΩ ΤΕΘΕΣΟΜΑΙ ΕΓΩ Îœ ... ΤΟΣΗ ΤΑ ΤΕΚÎΑ ΜΟΥ Η Ο ΓΑΜΒΡΟΣ Ο ΠΡΟΓΕΓΡΑΜΕΠΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΣΥÎΧΩΡΗΣ ... Σ. ΥΙÎΙ ΤΗΘΗΠΑΙ Ο ΔΕ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΑΥΤΑ ΤΟΛΜΗΣΑΣ ΒΙΑΣΑΜΕÎΟΣ ΔΩΣΕΙ ΕΙΣ ΜΕΤΟΠΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΦΙΣΚΟΠΔΗÎΑΡΙΑ ΧΕΙΛΙΑ ΠΕÎΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΕΙΣ ΔΕ ΤΗΠΓΙΙΑ ΑΥΤΟΣ ΔΕ ΕÎΟΧΟΣ The Building which the Doctor took for the Sepulcher of Mausolus made him also take this Place for Halicarnassus the Seat of the antient Kings of Caria But his Mistake is evident from Strabo and Pliny who place Halicarnassus much further South over against the Island Coos called by the Western part of the World Stanchio or Stinco or Stingo from an Errour I have before corrected in other Places and which takes its rise from hearing the Greeks at this day say 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 from Coos Halicarnassus was separated only by a streight of fifteen Miles over if Pliny may be credited And as for Strabo he maketh Termerium Promontory next North to Halicarnassus to be but forty Stadia that is about five Miles distant from Coos So that by the Judgment both of Pliny and Strabo Halicarnassus and the Askemkalesi we treat of were at too great distance to be one and the same Place Strabo concludes that account thus After Jassus is the Posidium Prom. of the Milesians This also agreeth with the Information that one Mr William Michel gave me who shewed me a large Map of the Coasts of Asia made by his own and others Observations where over against the Island Coos is drawn a large Bay and the Ruins of a Town upon each Promontory But those upon the Southern Promontory were exceeding great as he was informed by a Bey of a Galley who found them and told him That those to the South were called Okanstenches and the North-most Boundron but are both only heaps of Ruins and both uninhabited Of these the Southern-most should be Halicarnassus which was the Native Place of Herodotus the most antient Grecian Historian remaining among us as also of Dionysius sir-named from this Place Halicarnassaeus And this is all the News I learned so far South Our Travellers went no farther than Askemkalesi but returned another way more within the Continent as followeth Parting from Askemkalesi about five in the Evening they traversed a pleasant Mountain which after some hours Riding brought them into a large Plain with a fair River running in it with many turnings and windings like another Meander which passing over by a Stone-Bridge they came to certain Turkish Cottages where they staid till two in the Morning only apprehending they were among Thieves and willing to be on their way before them wherein through God's Mercy they had their desire fulfill'd arriving at a more secure Place called Melasso about seven the same Morning In this Place they saw several remarkable Pieces of Antiquity which together with the present Name not much corrupted from the antient MELASSO olim MYLASA assureth That this Place was formerly called Mylasa and not Miletum as our Modern Geographers think being deceiv'd by the likeness of the Name and not knowing the Situation The first Antiquity was a fair Temple of Marble with an Inscription on the Front shewing it was built in Honour of Augustus Caesar and to the Goodess of Rome Lib III. Fig X. It had Twenty two Pillars about it but the Front only is now standing Lib III. Fig XII The Pilar of Menander But that which further proveth our Assertion is That on the Wall of the Town yet remains a Pillar which was erected by the People of the Town to the Honour of Menander Grand-Son of Euthydemus of whom Strabo saith That he was formerly one of the Principal Citizens of Mylassa and to the Riches he had received from his Ancestors he added such Eloquence that he was held in high esteem not only in his own Country but all over Asia In whose time also one Hybreas sprung up whose Father gained his Living by fetching Wood to the Town on a Mule which was all the Portion he left to his Son Hybreas who afterward likewise maintained himself thereby until after some time Fortune favouring him he went and studied a while at Antioch under Diotrephes a great Orator there After which he returned and began to frequent the Courts of Justice where quickly he got himself such a Reputation that even while Euthydemus was yet living he was greatly admired and soon after his Death rendred himself Master of the City But Euthydemus whilst he lived was both powerful and useful to the City and although his way of handling the Town seemed something Tyrannical yet he balanced that with the Benefits he did them Which gave Hybreas one day occasion at the end of his Speech to give him a bold
Chapel dedicated to St John and above that thre◠Niches for Statues one great one in the middle and two lesser on each side In this Cleft about nine or ten Yards high is a hole which by throwing Stones into it we found to have Water in it and on the right hand I observed some Stairs leading up to it cut out of the Rock but so broken that there was no clambering up We judged this to be the Antrum Corycium or the Grotto of the Nymphs the Poets called by that Name I believe this makes a fine Cascade when there is Water enough falling from the Mountains The Water of Castalia is very good and cool fit to quench the Thirst of those hot-headed Poets who in their Bacchanals spare neither God nor Man and to whom nothing is so sacred but they will venture to profane it Continuing yet upon a Descent we came to a Monastery called Panagia its Church being dedicated to the Blessed Virgin It is situated upon the Brink of the Mountain upon ground held up by antient strong Walls of hewn Stone There we saw several Capitals and Fusts of Corinthian Pillars and other Fragments of Antiquity among which three or four Inscriptions in and about the Church and the Name of Delphos with only these words in the Pavement of the Church ΔΕΛΦΩΠΠΩΛΕΩΣ ΑΠΕΛΕΥΘΕΡΟΥ Others we copied there also which I reserve for another occasion Here are not above three or four Caloyers belonging to this Monastery who brought us of their Bread and very good White Wine We wondered that one of them knew that this Place was antiently called Delphos which he told us he found by some Book he had read For it is not usual that they know any thing of the History of their Country But he was much pleased when we shewed him the Name written in his Church We believed that this Place was where the Gymnasium or Schools stood from Pausanias his words Those saith he that go up from the Gymnasium to the Temple have the Fountain Castalia on the right hand But we bending our Steps contrary to his ought to leave it as we did on our left hand Thence is a great Precipice in which the River Pleistos runneth which Pausanias makes three Stadia or about Four hundred Paces below Into which what the Town and Gardens can spare of Castalia descends into it Returning by the Fountain we observed a great piece of the Rock tumbled down and almost buried on one side of it that lay a little hollow we saw Letters written in large but strange Characters so as we could not make any thing of them We returned to our lodging very well pleased with our days labour although weary with rambling up and down upon those Rocks Being returned whilst Supper was making ready I began to put my Plants I had gathered in order into my Book among the rest I found one which was something like narrow leav'd Bugloss in shape and manner of growing PLANTS of PARNASSUS the leaves long crisped and rough growing one above another upon a Stalk of a foot high Between each leaf is a yellow Flower like Bugloss in shape which is followed by seeds five together in the bottom of a Cup. The whole Plant is so viscous or clammy that it sticketh to ones fingers and is of a very strong sweet smell like Narcissus junei folio which the French call Junculle Monsieur Merchant at Paris called this Stachys Viscosa flore luteo In the Cleft of the Rocks I found another Plant with a leaf something like Pyrola which he called Petromarula Gretica or Lactuca petraea The best and readiest way from hence to Livadia is to pass by the Fountain Castalia by the Monastery and so still keeping under the Mountains between Cirphis and Parnassus for thus it is but half a Days journey from Delphos to Livadia But we could not pass by this Mountain so celebrated by the Poets without passing over it to see what Beauties those really were they so much commend in it And therefore we took our Guide we had the Day before who willingly offered us his service being well acquainted with this Mountain and a fellow naturally ingenious as most of the Greeks are We passed between the Stadium and the Clefts above the Town and presently began to mount making many turns backward and forward to get a little ground in height But I being light made no great matter of it chusing rather to go on foot and have my Horse led than to venture my Neck by a stumble So crossing all the ways I had often time to sit down before my Comrades came to me to view the Plains of Salona and the Gulph of Lepanto below me The way is in some places cut into Stairs in the Rock which seem very antient I observed also a kind of Chanel cut in the Rock in a streight Line downwards which I believe hath been an Aqueduct but now spoiled We were a long Hour before we got to the Top whereon is a pretty large Plain We turned to the right hand to see the two Tops of the Mountain above Delphos and from the Western one I had an excellent Prospect over the Gulph of Lepanto the Mountains of Morea and nearer the Gulph it self South South-West and West until the Mountain Corax and yet nearer hand Mount Cirphis now called Stiva from a Monastery that is on it so called The height of this Top makes Mount Cirphis look from hence like a Plain on the Top and is a kind of Chersonesus the Bay of Salona being on one side of it and another Bay called Asprospiti on the other side of which more hereafter Hence I took the Figure of the Bay of Salona with all the Islands in it which seem'd to lie before me like a Map Between this and the other Top in view from Castri is a deep Precipice where the Water runs down to Castalia How large it may be within I know not yet I doubt not but it may have room enough to be the Antrum Corycium I conceiv'd that Jupiter's Temple was not far from this Place but I found no Remains of it any where Here are now only some Shepherds Hutts and the Place they call Alona Turning back to our way-ward we had the view of the highest Part of Parnassus as high again as we had yet mounted Towards which we passed a high Hill covered with those kind of Pines I described on Olympus where we sometimes passed over and sometimes through Snow and left a Lake on our left hand made by the melting of the Snow and Rain But beyond that is an extream high Point of the Mountain all covered with Snow which Pausanias had some reason to say is almost above the Clouds It was on this Top that it is said Deucalion saved himself and his Wife Pyrrha from the Flood that happened in his time which Place of Retreat he found by the howling of Wolves and therefore called the Town
We searched about for the Grotto of the God Pan in old times very much celebrated in these parts but could neither find it nor hear any news of it From hence it would have been our nearer way to Negropont to have gone directly on but they told us there was no way thence over the Mountain Nosea for that coming along from the Mountain Pentelicus it ends here towards the Sea in unpassable Rocks and Precipices We were therefore forced to return as far back as Marathon to recover our way to Negropont MARATHON Marathon is now but a pitiful ruined Village which we thought not worth alighting to see therefore leaving it a little beyond it we began to go up the Mountain Nosea our way lying along the River I before spake of which here and there makes little Cataracts or falls of Water as it descendeth into the Plain What ancient name it had I know not unless Charadra whence the Town was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 After an hour and half 's riding from Marathon we passed by a ruined Village called Kalingi KALINGI upon the side of the Mountain and about as far more on the Plain on the top of the Mountain another called Capandritti CAPANDRITTI or Capodritti famous for good Wine One of these I believe was anciently the Town Oenoa of which the Proverb 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Thence we proceed almost to the highest point of the Mountain by an easie ascent an hours riding further Whence I saw the highest point of Mount Hymettus and Pentelicus Southwards the Gulf of Negropont or Euripus North Mount Casha or Parnes Westwards On this Mountain is a large Plain bounded with the high Mountains of Casha and its own highest Cliffs towards the Plain of Marathon being a great Portion or part of Diacria above-mention'd As to the ancient name of this Mountain although from Pentelicus hither I heard of no other present name that it hath then Nosea or Nozea yet I guess it had formerly two names First That part which reacheth from Vrania to Marathon and again from the Plain of Athens towards Parnes to have been called Brilessus and that Thucydides teacheth me saying Thucyd. p. 115. that the Lacedemonians being come with their Army into Attica by the Plains of Eleusis and Thryassius leaving Parnes on the left hand and Aegalis on the right pitched their Tents at Acharna and thence when they saw the Athenians would not come out to fight removing their Camp they spoiled some of their Towns between Parnes and Brilessus and so return'd by Oropus and Boeotia Whence it is plain that this part at least of Nozea confining upon Parnes was called anciently Brilessus As to the other part of this Mountain beyond Marathon to the Gulph of Negropont it is not so clear yet I believe it went by another name in times past first because it lay not so near the Lacedemonians way to Oropus as this which they must necessarily pass over to go thither And then it seems naturally to be severed at Marathon by the River whence it riseth still higher and higher towards the North end and also towards the South making two distinct Ridges but chiefly because I know not where to place the Mountain Lycobettus but here and that with some probability from the name Lycabetus which seemeth to be derived either from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifying a Wolf with which the desart and rocky places of this Mountain might be infested or lastly from Lycus second Son to Pandion King of Athens whose Heritage left him by the King his Father was all that Mountainous Country lying towards the Island of Euboea and was called Diacria and Huperdiacria and therefore most likely the Mountain bearing his name was in his Country From the top of this Mountain we descended about an hour and more along a torrent and came by that time it was dark to a Town on the side of the Mountain called Marcopoli The Inhabitants of this place were once not long since about to run away for Poverty and Debt But the Benignity of the Captain Basha who alloweth them the third of their labour and the ground hath hitherto kept about fifty or three-score Families of them together to inhabit there By some fragments of Antiquity still remaining This place should have been in ancient times more considerable than now it seems Perhaps it was Hyttania afterwards called Tetrapolis because it had four Towns under it viz. Marathon Probalinthus Tricorithus and Oinea For so I understand Stephanus Byzantinus although others take it to be no particular Town or City but all the four Towns jointly to be called by that common name Tetrapolis But these seem not to have read far enough in the Lexicon nor to consider what Stephens there quoteth out of Androsion 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Androsion saith it is called Tetrapolis by reason of the four Towns above-named But that it self was called in times before Hyttania The next day we parted early and descending yet lower on the side of the Mountain we came to the shore of Euripus along which continuing our way two hours and a halfs riding we came to the mouth of the River Asopus which we had formerly passed over in our way to Athens from Thebes but was now there so swelled with the Rains that had fallen from the Mountain Parnes that we could not pass it over on Horseback Therefore we continued our way along the Banks till we came to Oropo OROPUS a large Town consisting I believe of two hundred Houses This was undoubtedly the ancient Town Oropus in the Confines of Attica and Boeotia so much contested for between the Athenians and Thebans It is situated two or three Miles from the Sea upon the Attick side of the River Thycydidis lib. 2. the Region about it being formerly called Pyrace and is I believe the narrow Plain under Parnes and Lycobettus on the Southside of the Asopus About two or three Miles further being Noon we passed over the River Asopus by a Ferry to a Village called Scamino And then we judged our selves quite out of the Athenian Territories And again in Boeotia Scamino is a Town almost as big as Oropus SCAMINO and is situated on the other side of the River under a steep Hill North-East of it whereon I believe also the greatest part of the ancient Town was built My Companion thinks that it was called in times past Sycaminon as I guess from Laurenburgius But I know not their reason I believe it to have been a place more considerable than such an obscure Village if such a one there ever was for I can no where find it The ancient Ruins of this place shew it to have been a large City The Greeks have yet many Churches in it among the rest Hagioi seranda or the Church of Forty Saints Panagia and Hagios Elias which are built out of ancient Ruins among which we observed some Inscriptions By
the more particular in my Observations of it and shall give the best account of it I can Which that I may do to be the better understood I shall first give an account of the situation of the Lake and the Plain in which it is stagnated and then of the several Passages out of the Water of the Lake into the Euboean Sea This Lake is now called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Lake of Livadia but by Strabo Copais and by Pausanias Cephissis It is situate on the North-side of that large Plain which is call'd by the same name of Livadia which is stretched out between the Plain of Thebes and the Town Livadia the whole Perimeter of which Country and Lake is so encompassed with high Hills and Mountains so joined one to another that there is not so much as space for the many streams and torrents that arise under and fall from them to pass out above ground into the Sea So that had not the Wisdom of the Creator provided at several places certain subterraneous Passages as Chanels to receive and suck in the Waters which in so great abundance at times do flow and pour down these Mountains and were not those Chanels either by nature or art and industry of men kept open and cleansed all Boeotia must necessarily in a short space of time be drowned and made nothing but a great Lake or standing Water For beginning first at Parnes that Mountain is join'd to Cithaeron Cithaeron is join'd to Helicon Helicon to Parnassus Parnassus to Mount Oeta that to Cnemis Cnemis to the Cyrtonum Mons That to Ptoos Ptoos to Messapius Messapius to Cerycius and that again to Parnes Which Mountains although all or most of them be well enough distinguished from each other by certain Chasms or Openings between them yet are they all so tacked and link'd together by High-Grounds that before the Waters could find Passage any way into the Sea above ground the whole Country below them must unavoidably be drowned which perhaps was one great reason of Deucalions Flood in which these parts seem chiefly concerned But beside this Circle of Mountains that encompass all Boeotia Phocis and great part of Locris there are other Mediterranean Mountains also which are tacked to one another in such sort that they divide the whole Country into several particular Vallies which from a high prospect look as if they were those places in the Earth the Gyants laid open when in their War with the Gods they plucked up Mountains by the Roots and set them upon one another intending to scale Heaven thereby For so is this Plain of Livadia divided from that of Thebes Eastward by the Mountain Phoenicius or Sphingis which joins Northwards to the Mountain Ptoos Southwards to certain Ridges which descend from Helicon From those high Mountains Helicon South-West Parnassus and Oeta North-West are poured down those quantities of Waters into this Plain which stagnating make the great Lake of Livadia by falling towards the Ridge of the Rocky Hills of Thalanda or Cyrtonum Mons against which the whole stress and fall of the Waters seems to lean but are by them as by a mighty Mound or Bank kept in from discharging themselves into the Euboean Sea Strabo counts this Lake no less than three hundred seventy one Stadia in Circumference which amounts to about forty seven Miles and a half But I believe it covers not so much ground at present For then in his time it had one passage out above ground into Hylica palus now called the Theban Lake But now the Waters are far lower than that Passage and therefore are to be thought very much abated The form of this Lake is long being stretched out under the Mountains of Thalanda or Cyrtonum Mons North-West and South-East as far as the Mountain Ptoos In the middle it is narrow but then enlarging it self again until it comes to be divided at the South-East end into three several Bayes At the two Northmost of these Bays are the principal Chanels in a wonderful manner pierced through the Mountains The whole mass whereof consists of a very hard stone considerably high and of a great extent in thickness though in some places it be greater and in others less the shortest Passage to the Sea being towards Thalanda and the North-West end of the Lake is at least four Miles through the Mountain Where this enters in under the Mountain is a Town called Palea situate towards the North-West end of the Lake where it riseth again on the other side near the Sea are those Mills I but now spake of about two hours riding from Thalanda This seems to be the place which Strabo calls Anchoe where the Town of Copais was also situated that gave the old name to this Lake and by the same rule on the Sea side where the Waters come out of the Lake should lye Larimna Superior or that of Locris where Strabo makes the Chanels to pass thirty Stadia or about four Miles under ground from Copais to Larimna The other Chanels I saw on the North-West end of the Lake are all a much greater distance from the Sea many of them passing at least half a days Journey under the Mountain Ptoos The Northmost of the two Bayes last mentioned divides it self again into three Bayes the first of which entreth under the Mountain by two Chanels the second and third by three Chanels apiece Another Bay also there is that divideth it self into many other little Bays and those again into Chanels Insomuch that I easily believe what an Albanese I met there told me to wit that there were at least fifty of these under-ground Chanels whereby the Lake emptieth it self into the Sea For I saw above half the number of them my self From Proscina hither a considerable part of our way lay along one of those Chanels in several places of which we saw holes down to it but could neither see nor hear the Water as it passed by reason the Chanel was every where close covered and much deeper When we came to ascend the steeper part of the Mountain we passed by ten or a dozen square Stone-Pits about a Furlong distant one from another which I found still deeper and deeper according to the rising of the Mountain until by the sound of the Stones I cast in I could not judge them less than fifty Fathom deep but I heard no sound of Water at the bottom The reason whereof I found because the Chanel which carries the Water lyeth covered deeper under them They are about four foot square a piece at the Mouth and cut out of the hard Rock of the Mountain From all which I began to be sensible of the vast labour cost and indefatigable industry that brought the whole work to such perfection For by such Pits as these the rest of the fifty Chanels were first made if made at all and are now upon occasion cleansed when ever they happen to be obstructed Pausanias saith that
of Plenty held up by Victories At Paris Monsieur Galland shewed me a Medal of Gallienus the Emperour where I read on the Reverse ΜΑΓÎΗΤΩΠΑΠΟ ϹΙΠ. One I had at Symrna of the Emperour Maximinus which hath also upon the Reverse ΜΑΓÎΗΤΩΠonly Of which read further Another I saw and copied in the King of France's Library of silver with a Mure-crowned Head the Reverse a standing Figure holding a Spear with these Letters Med. 29 30. ΜΑΓÎΗΤΩΠΣΙΠΥΛΟΥ The Situation of This and Prousa look much alike delightful and resemble one another As that lieth under Olympus so this under Sipylus and seem to have shared alike in fate having been its Predecessor in the Imperial Seat of the Ottoman Empire and remains yet a Bashalique although of late governed by a Deputy under the Title of Moselim and is great populous and rich from the Trade it driveth in Cotton We lodged at the House of the Chief of the Janizaries who was eminent in the War of Candia for which this was his Reward now living in great Repute for his Courage from being a Servant to the English in Smyrna His House is pretty and he treated us well He furnished us with a Janizary to see the Seraglio of the Grand Signior when they abode here as in their chief Imperial City which is now well near ruined The Lodgings have a spired Tower covered with Lead five stories high and it had a large Garden about it adorned with Chiosques Fish-ponds Fountains and Baths About the Walls and Trees I observed abundance of Storks which were now going all away South-wards Winter growing on as we daily observed them in vast flights all the way from Constantinople thither They have a great many Mosques and Baths here But the Christians who are few have only one Church The Castle is on a steep Hill between the City and the Mountain which I esteem strong not being commanded by any higher Ground near it About it are perceivable several Ranges of Walls one above another which it may be were in antient times the chief part of the City They say There is kept an antient Roman Helmet but it being too late we could not have time to go see it this Evening and our Company posted us away next Morning too early The next Morning therefore October the one and twentieth early we set out from this Town and in less than a Mile West of it we began to mount the Sipylus by the easiest Passage and were above three hours before we could look over that part of it which is not the highest by a great deal for it well deserves to be reckoned among the highest Mountains of Asia Hence we had a fair Prospect of the Plain of Magnesia North stretching it self in length East-ward from the Ionian Sea which we had West-wards and Smyrna with its fair Port South-West And South-East not very far off the Place where we were begin Mountains which stretch themselves far East through the Lesser Asia as the Doctor told me who called it Elis. Perhaps it is the beginning of Mount Taurus I would have given much that I could have had time to search this Mountain as I did Olympus But our Company were too near home to be at leisure for such Curiosities Only I had time to take notice of abundance of that Origanum I before described and here I saw some in its Flowers PLANTS AT MOUNT SIPYLUS And therefore being the most eminent Place I call it Origanum montis Sipyli To which I add 1. Genista minima spinosa 2. Another little Plant with silver Leaves growing to the Ground which I knew to be a Scabious only by one Seed I found not dropped out It is nearest like the Scabiosa argentea angustifolio of C. Bauhinus described in his Prodromus But it is less the Leaves not narrower but shorter and rounder towards the top growing without Order near the ground from a woody Root from which springs a Stalk I judge by the bigness of that three or four handfuls high and branches out into other fine Twigs by pairs and may be called Scabiosa Argentea minor 3. Viola Pentagonea tenui folio as Mr Merchant calleth it But I find it not the same nor like any described by Gerard nor named by C. Bauhinus in his Pinax From a small tender Root riseth a branchy tender Plant beset carelesly and thin with small long Leaves like Hyssop which the nearer the top are yet longer and narrower On the top is a pale blue Flower somewhat inclining to Purple much larger than the ordinary Speculum Veneris and more tender of five Leaves sustained by a Starry Cup of five points long and set as the Leaves with little Thorns like the Nettle So soon as we came to the bottom of the Hill we were met by the Consul to His Majesty Mr Paul Rycaut and many of the English Merchants with good Horses and well trapped according to the Turkish Fashion as the rest of their own Habits also were only their Hats excepted to distinguish them from the Eastern Nations They had provided a Collation for us about three Miles from the Town where the greatest part of the Factory met and having drank His Majesty's Health marched in order two by two into Smyrna Smernoe Portus Lib III. Fig V Smyrna hath so many Advantages from its natural Situation SMYRNA that notwithstanding the great Calamities which have befallen it by War and most prodigious Earthquakes that no less than six times have overthrown and almost utterly ruined it yet it hath still been thought worth the repairing and restoring to all the Beauty the Art of its Inhabitants could contrive to adorn it with Notwithstanding also that from some old Tradition they expect the Seventh that shall be its utter Ruin never to be repaired It is situate at the bottom of a Bay esteemed twenty Miles to its Mouth secured with high Mountains on every side from all Winds but the West Whence from Sea they can receive no damage For the Hermus which emptieth it self into it maketh a Bank of Sand that barreth the raging of the Sea out yet leaves such a passage in although but narrow that he must be a very Ideot of a Pilot that cannot bring a Ship in safe into the inmost part of the Bay where he may find room and depth enough with very good Moorage This Bay hath Mount Sipylus North. Another Mountain which I judged to be the Mesogis mons mentioned by Ptolomy and Strabo North-East The Hills whereon the Town stands from East to South From thence to the Promontory Argennum winding about to the Western point Mons Mimas now called the Brothers from the two highest Points Here is indeed a little Gap being the mouth of the Bay but thence Hills begin to rise again to joyn to Mount Sipylus Of this Entrance I shall have occasion again to speak when I part hence But as to the rest these Mountains are not so uear
leaded and sustained in the middle with three Pillars of Granate Marble most admirably well polished one of which is twelve Foot and eleven Inches in compass with a white Marble Capital of the Compound Order The other two want not much of this but their Capitals are of the ill-favour'd modern Greek fashion Their Pedestals are not seen so they may be further in the Ground than is imagined On each Roof there is a little ill-proportioned Cuppalo and in the Court another Capital of the Compound Order with some broken pieces of Pillars which might have made a Cloyster about it in times past Thence we took Horse to see the other Rocky Hill half a Mile South-wards where probably was the greatest part of the City being near the Temple of Diana as Strabo affirmeth On the Eastern top of which we discovered Ruins and were carried first into a Cave under ground about six or eight Foot Diameter It is incrusted above with Congelations that make it a most pretty Grotto Hard by we saw a circular Place in the Hill made like a Theater but now in effect destroyed A little further North-wards but still on the East-side of the Rock goeth in a place with Arches fallen down with some Figures of a ruined Church where they tell you was the Cave of the Seven Sleepers who in the Persecution in the time of the Emperour Dioclesian hiding themselves in a Cave fell asleep and awaked not till about Two hundred Years after thinking they had slept but one Night One cannot believe but they were strangely astonished when they found how the face of the City was changed their Friends and Acquaintance all dead their Money unknown and not currant and all People become Christians This Rock hath been curiously carved at the Entrance by the Piety of former Ages Going yet forwards under the same Hill yet still West-wards we past by many vast Heaps of Ruins now without form or likeness to any thing with a Name Only one which is known to be a Cirque or Stadium by its Figure and Length and seemeth to have had a kind of Theater at the end of it being circular and as it were separate from the rest by a Wall Whence two Walls run parallel a great length West-wards with Arches underneath for Walks and Wild Beasts The Figure of which I took because I had not noted any like it before Parallel to this is the Ruins of an Amphitheater in view of the Temple of Diana and not very far from it where in all likelihood all the Rabble of the City met together to vindicate the Honour of their Goddess Diana of the Ephesians upon the account of Demetrius the Silver-Smith who made Silver-Shrines for Men to perform their Idolatrous Devotion to their great Goddess and Heâ— Image which as they believ'd fell down from Jupiter It would be wished there were not so many of such Crafts-men in these times by whose means Superstition is so much promoted A little further under the West-side of the Hill is a Marble-Arch which I guess was the Front of a Christian Church built out of the Ruins of some more antient Edifice its Walls being full of Fragments of Inscriptions and other carved Stones joyned to the rest without any regard to their former state Some are well preserved but were too high for us to make any thing of them without a Ladder which I hope will be done by the next that shall have the Curiosity to visit this Place Yet a little further South-West is a great Basin of a mixed Marble of Red and White Some call it Porphyry but I rather with Monsieur Spon believe it to be Jasper but doubt whether it is more than an ordinary mixed Marble Porphyry is a very hard red Stone speckled with small white Spots but the mixture of this is in veins and not hard enough for either Porphyry or Jasper It is fifteen Foot Diameter and is thought to be the Font St John baptized in when he was at Ephesus But I hardly think it consistent with the private Exercise of Christian Religion in those times It was all of one Stone but hath now many pieces broken off Hard by this are the Ruins of a little round Temple and about a Bow-shot further we were conducted to a great heap of Ruins supposed to be that famous Temple of Diana of the Ephesians Of what Figure her Temple was I know not But I am not of opinion That these Ruins were of that shape Monsieur Spon speaketh of viz. That the length was double the breadth nor that the Front was towards the East but the West which I observed from the top of a Wall I climbed up to For there is a heap of curious Marble before it at that end which seemed to have been a Portico and to which the Arches more inward seem to concur And still observing about me I fansied that I saw the same shape with that I described at Troy or Alexandria with a Court West-ward where are perceivable and as I there marked upon Paper the Pedestals of Pillars as if there had been other Portico's on each hand opposite to one another There are Foundations of Walls also East-ward for Gardens and Conveniences of the Building as Mr Smith also hath observed who believeth That it hath been a Christian Church but built out of the Ruins and upon the Foundations of that Temple But nothing of very great certainty can now be reported from this rude heap only that here was the Temple of Diana once built as the vast proportion of the Pillars that lie towards the East-side and the nearness to the Lake Selenusia which was dedicated to Diana and lieth near the River on the North-West of the Building demonstrate Strabo telleth also That Cheiromocrates was the Architect of this Temple and the same that built that at Alexandria If he mean that Alexandria near Troy as in all likelihood he doth I know not why he might not be the Architect of that Temple I before described there And indeed their Form so well resembling one another and the pieces of Arches that remain consisting of Brick and Stone that seem to have been covered within with some Metal by the Holes which yet remain orderly in rowes for some such purpose assuring me That the Building is not modern incline me much to be of opinion That both are the Remains of the Temples of Diana The Foundations of this Temple have worthily been esteemed a Labyrinth from the many turnings and windings with great and little Arches in rowes But whether it were designed for one or no matters not it being but necessary to have such a Foundation to so vast a Pile of Building in so wet and moorish a Place We went down to it by a long Pack-thred tied to the Hole where we first entred and with all the Light our Candles had we made no great Discoveries But when wearied with the thick Vapours of the Place we returned to
the Frontispiece of a very antient Temple with some of the Foundations of the rest about it The Stone looketh of a dark brownish colour with Age. This my Comrade thinketh to be the Temple of the Egyptian God Serapis whose Worship was brought to Athens by Ptolomy But I rather believe it that antient Temple of Castor and Pollux Pausanias speaks of above which lay Pandrosa's Grove The nearness to Theseus his Temple and the blackness of the Stone are my Arguments out of Pausanias There is room enough for Pandrosa's Grove to have been above it towards the Castle and the Prytanaeum to have been by that and thence to descend into the lower Parts of the City to the Temple of Serapis and thence to the Temple of Jupiter Olympius according to Pavias Lib V. Templum Augusti But between that The TEMPLE OF AUGUSTUS and the other supposed to be the Temple of Jupiter Olympius is the Temple of Augustus not mentioned that I find by Pausanias But the Inscription of the Front is sufficient to prove what I say without his Testimony My Companion hath observed that the first Line is wanting I have only noted the first word which I suppose 〈◊〉 other Inscriptions was the Dedication to Rome as that which remains is to Augustus which the Athenian Nobility did in the time that Nicius was Archon But Eucles the Son of Herod had the care of the Work instead of his Father who was President of it It was of white Marble and only the Front looking towards the West now remains which consists of four Dorick Pillars bearing up the Eagle on the Architrave upon which the Inscription is written On the highest point of the Eagle is a broad Stone laid on the edge whereof we read The People to Lucius Caesar Son of the Son of Augustus Caesar the Son of God meaning Lutius the Son of Germanicus who was the Son of Augustus by Nature and the Adopted Son of Julius whom they had newly translated amongst their Gods And I believe his Statue was set upon this Stone on that point of the Temple One of the Pillars towards the South is inclosed within a little Church called Tou Sotiros as much as to say our Saviours And opposite to that on the other side the way which through this Temple leads to the Basar hard by on the Wall of a private House is a large Marble Stone standing an end on which is written The Law of the Emperour Hadrian touching the Sale of the Oyl of Athens It is great pity it is so much defaced for it teacheth not only this Law but the manner of Appellation and Proceeding in the Athenian Courts of Judicature and from thence too by degrees to the Proconsul or Governour and from him to the Emperour himself As much as I can pick out of it is as followeth ΚΕΠÎΟΘ Ε ΑΔΡΙΑÎΟΥ ΟΙ ΤΟ ΕΛΑΙΟΠΓΕΟΡΓΟΥÎΤΕΣ ΤΟ ΤΡΙΤΟΠΚΑΤΑΦΕΡΕΤΩΣΑΠΗ ΤΟ ΟΓΔΟΟΠΟΙΠΠΙΠΠΑΡΧΟΥ ΧΩΡΙΑ ΤΑ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΥ ΦΙΣΚΟΥ ΠΡΑΘΕÎΤΑ ΚΕΤΗΜΕÎΟΙ ΜΟÎΑ ΓΑΡ Ε ΚΕΙΠΑ ΤΟ ΔΙΚΑΙΟΠΤΟΥΤΟ ΕΧΕΙ ΚΑΙ ΦΕ ΡΕΤΩΣΑΠΔΕ ΑΜΑ ΤΩ ΑΡΞΑΣΤΑΙ ΣΥΠΚ ΑΤΑ ΜΕΡΟΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΛΟΓΟÎΤΕΣ .... ... ΜΕΠΟΥΤΟΙΣ ΕΛΕΟ ........ ..... ΠΡΟÎΟΟΥΣΙΠΤΗ ...... ...... ΑΠΟΓΡΑΦΕΣΘΑΙ ..... ...... ΣΥÎΚΟΜΙΔΗΣ ΠΡ ... ....... ΤΟΠΚΗΡΥΚΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ....... ΙΔΟÎΤΕΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ....... ÎΟÎΤΕΣ ΥΠΟΓΡΑ ... ........ ΤΩΜΕΤΑ ΟΡΚΟΥ .. ΚΑΙ ΠΟΣΟΠΣΥÎΕΚΟΜΙΣΕΠΤΟ ΠΑΠΚΑΙ ΟΤΙ ΔΙΑ ΔΟΥΛΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΔΕ Η ΑΠΕΛΕΥ ΘΕΡΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΔΕ ΕΑΠΔΕ ΠΩΛΗΣΗ ΤΟΠΚΑΡΠΟΠΟ ΔΕ ΣΠΟΤΗΣ ΤΟΥ ΧΩΡΙΟΥΗΟ ΓΕΩΡΓΟΣ Η Ο ΚΑΡΠΩÎΗΣ ΑΠΟΓΡΑΦΕ ΣΤΩ ΔΕ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΟΥΣ ΑΥΤΟΥΣ ΚΑΙ Ο ΕΠΕΞΑ ΓΩΓΗ ΠΙΠΡΑΣΚΩΠΠΟΣΟΠΠΙΠΡΑΣΚΕΠΚΑΙ ΤΙÎΙ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΥ ΟΡΜ ..... ΟÎΟÎΛ ΑΠΟΓΡΑΦΗΣ ΧΩΡΙΣ ....... ΠΕΞΑ ΓΩΓΗ ΚΑΠΟΦΕΙΛΕΠΗΚΑ ...... ΤΗ ΠΟΛΕΙ ΣΤΕΡΕΣΤΩ ΤΟΥ ΠΡΑ .... Ο ΔΕ ΨΕΥΔΕΙΣ ΑΠΟΓΡΑΦΑΣ ΠΟ ... ΗΤ ΑΣ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΗΣ ΣΥÎΚΟΜΙΔΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΕΞΑΓΩΓΗΣ Η ΥΠΕΡ ΧΩΡΙΟΥ ... ΡΑ ΦΙΣΚΟΥ ΕΠΡΙΑΤΟ ΜΗ ΙΠΠΑΡΧ ... ÎΩ. ΟΓΔΟΟΠΚΑΤΕÎΕÎΚΩΠ..... ......... ΥΣΑΣΑΛ ............... ......... ΙΡΕΞΑΜ ................ ......... ΤΩΠΑΓ ................ ........ ΣΑΥ ΤΟ ΣΗΟΠ.......... ........ ΕΤΩΛΛΕÎΞ ............. ........ ΣΔΕ ΤΕΙΜΗΣ ............ ΜΙΣΥ ΚΑΤΕΚΕΤΩ ΕΙ ΜΗΠΩ ΔΕΔΟΙΚ ΠΗ ΛΑΜ ΒΑÎΕΤΩ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΗΜΙΣΕΥΣ ΤΟ ΔΗΜΟΣΙΟΠΓΡΑΦΕΣΘΩ ΔΕ ΚΑΙ Ο ΕΜΠΟΡΟΣ ΟΤΙ ΕΞΑΓΕΙ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΣΟΠΠΑΡ ΕΚΑΣΤΟΥ ΕΑΠΔΕ ΜΗ ΑΠΟ ΓΡΑΨΑΜΕÎΟΣ ΦΩΡΑΘΗ ΕΚΠΛΕΩΠΣΤΕΡΕ ΣΘΩ ΕΑΠΔΕ ΕΚΠΛΕΥΣΑΣ ΦΘΑΣΗ ΚΑΙ ΜΗÎÎ¥ ΘΗ ΓΡΑΦΕΣΘΩ ΚΑΙ ΤΗ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΙ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΥ ΔΗΜΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΟΙ ΤΑΣ ΔΕ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΟΥΤΩΠΔΙΚΑΣ ΜΕΚΡΙ ΜΕΠΠΕÎΤΗΚΟÎΤΑ ΑΜΦΟΡΕΩΠΗ ΒΟΥ ΛΗ ΜΟÎΗ ΚΡΕΙÎΕΤΩ ΤΑ ΔΕ ΥΠΕΡ ΤΟΥΤΟΥ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΟΥ ΔΗΜΟΥ ΕΑΠΔΕ ΤΩΠΕΚ ΤΟΥ ΠΛΟΙΟΥ ΤΙΣ ΜΗÎΥΣΗ ΕΠΑΠΑΓΚΕΣ Ο ΣΤΡΑΤΗΓΟΣ ΤΗ ΕΞΗΣ ΗΜΕΡΑ ΒΟΥΛΗΠΑΘΡΟΙΣΑΤΩ ΕΙ Δ ΥΠΕΡ ΤΟΥΣ ΠΕÎΤΗΚΟÎΤΑ ΑΜΦΩΡΕΙΣ ΕΙΗΤΟ ΜΗÎÎ¥ ΜΕÎΟΠΕΚΚΛΗΣΙΑΠΚΑΙ ΔΙΔΟΣΘΩ ΤΩ ΕΛΕΚ ΞΑÎΤΙ ΤΟ ΗΜΙΣΥ ΕΑΠΔΕ ΕΚΚΛΕΣΗΤ ΑΙ ΤΙΣ Η ΕΜΕ Η ΤΟΠΑÎΘΥΠΑΤΟΠΧΕΙΡΟΤΟÎΕΙΤΩ ΣΥΠΔΙΚΟΥΣ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΙÎΑ ΔΕ ΑΠΑΡΑΙ ΤΗ ΤΑ ΗΤΑ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΩΠΚΑΚΟΥΡΓΟΥÎΤΩΠ... ΙΜΙ ΤΕΙ ΜΗΣ ΕΣ ΤΟ ΔΗΜΟΣΙΟΠΚΑΤΑ ΦΕΡΕΣΘΩ ΤΟ ΕΛΑΙ ΟΠΗ ΤΙΣ ΑΠΕΠΤΗ ΧΩΡΑ ΕΙ ΔΕ ΠΟΤΕ ΕΥΦΟΡΙ ΑΣ ΕΛΑΙΟΥ ΓΕÎΟΜΕÎΗΣ ΠΛΕΟÎΕΙΗ ΤΟ ΕΚ ΤΩΠΤΡΙΤ ΩΠΚΑΙ ΟΓΔΟΩΠΚΑΤΑΦΕΡΟΜΕÎΟΠΤΙΣ ΕΙΣ ΟΛΟΠΕÎΙΑΥΤΟΠΔΗΜΟΣΙΑΣ ΧΡΕΙΑΣ ΕΞΕ ΣΤΩ ΤΟΙΣ ΜΗΔΕ ΠΟΛΟΥΣΙΠΤΟ ΕΛΑΙΟΠΗ ΠΑΠΗΜΕΡΟΣ ΔΕΥΤΕΡΑΠΑΠΟΓΡΑΦΗΠΠΟΙΗΣΑΜΕ ÎΟΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΗΜΟΣΙΟΠΠΟΤΕ ΟΦΕΙΛΟΜΕÎΟΠΠΟΣΟΠΕΣΤΙΠ... ΟΠΟΙ ΕΛΑΙΩÎΑΙ Η ΤΟ ΑΡΓΥΡ ΡΟΤΑΜΙΟΥ ΒΟΥΛΟÎΤΑΙ ΠΑΡ ΑΥΤΩΠΛΑΒΕΙΠThe three contracted Letters on the top ΚΕ. ÎΟ. ΘΕ. ΑΔΡΙΑÎΟΥ my Comrade interprets 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Ex constitutione Adriani But I think Monsieur Gallant the King of France's Antiquary whom I knew at Paris was more lucky in his Conjecture interpreting it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Edictum Legitimum Divi Hadriani The Law-Edict of God-like Adrian Let those that cultivate the Oyl bring the third Part to the Office or those that possess the Ground of the Proconsul which the Fiscus hath sold their Eight Part for they only have that Right But let them bring it at the same time ........ Thence eight Lines are imperfect and then it followeth Let it be taken upon Oath how much hath been gathered in all as well by his Slaves as by his Freemen But if he selleth the Fruit the Landlord or the Tenant or the Buyer of the Crop shall be written with them And he that hath sold it for Transportation shall give an Account how much he hath sold it for and to whom and whither bound And let the Merchant write what he hath embarked and of whom and whither he is bound .......... But he that shall be found to give in false Accounts either of the Receipt or Transportation or concerning the Country their Freight shall be confiscated still those possessing the Lands of the Proconsul excepted if they bring their Eighth Part. Here half a dozen Lines are defaced and then he proceeds again Let him retain the half But if he doth not receive half let the Publick take half ..... And let the Merchant write what he transporteth and how much of every Body But if he shall be apprehended not to
posture Our French old and new Athens told us of a third in the Castle which we could have no account of unless he took the fore part of an Horse placed on the top of the Northern Wall for a Lion By occasion of this my Comrade telleth a strange Story viz. Of a Monster supposed to have been caused by an impression made upon the Phantasie of the Woman that bare it by a sudden view of it I do not remember that I was present at the relation yet because esteem the thing a matter of more than ordinary curiosity I shall not pass it by It happened in the month of October in the Year of our Lord 1665. that a Turkish Woman was Delivered of it in the Citadel after she had gone with it nine months as of a Child So soon as it was brought into the world it leap'd down on the ground began to go and make a hideous noise resembling somewhat the barking of a Dog It had Ears standing upright like a Hares and his Chaps like a Lion its Eyes sparkled and had two great Teeth sticking out of its Mouth its Feet like a Child but the Fingers of its Hands rather resembled the Claws of Birds of prey and its Sex scarce discernable The Veivode and Caddi hearing of it came to make their Inspection three days after its Birth and presently gave Sentence of Death against it commanding they should dig a great hole in the ground and throw the Monster into it and after that fill up the place again with Stones which was done upon the Eight of October A French Chirurgion called Monsieur Fanchon who lived then at Athens desired to have the Body that he might Embalm it and send it into France But it was denyed him the Turks affirming That it was a Devil and that the memory of it ought to perish with it insomuch that he was forbidden to come near the place where it was buried The mouth of Porto-Lione is so narrow that two Gallies can hardly enter in a-breast having a little Rock that appears like a heap of Stones above water just in the entrance But within it enlargeth it self into a considerable Harbour with depth enough and good Anchorage all over except a little Bay at the utmost point of it which seems to have been formerly a small Harbour for Barques though now choaked up But that which I judge most considerable is that the nature of the place is such that though a Ship should happen to be driven upon the shore yet it may get off again without damage Which was tried not long since by five English Ships who riding there by force of a terrible Storm had all their Cables broken in one night and though they were driven to the shore received no harm at all besides The Ancients tell That it was capable of receiving four hundred Vessels But by our best observation we could scarce judge it capable of holding more than forty or fifty of the great Ships of our times Along the Shore on the East-side of it one may perceive some Foundations of Walls and Ruins And near to the street at the mouth the Foundations of two square Towers over against each other Near to the first was the Tomb of Themistocles that made the Athenian Port. But whether it were that great Stone Sepulcher we saw a little further of near to some Caves cut out of the Rock we could not determine Near the mouth of the Port we were shewed a Well among the Rocks containing very good fresh water notwithstanding it is not above ten yards from the Sea The Town that was here in former times is now utterly ruined and deserted with all the admirable Portico's and Edifices Pausanias describeth The only Building that now remaineth is a kind of Ware-house to receive Merchandises to gather the Customs and Taxes and where the Veivode for the most part layeth up his Velania to sell to the Merchants â—â—om Porto-Lione they count it five miles to Athens whence in old time it had a wall which from the length was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 It was destroyed by Syllae but the Foundations thereof are yet seen in many places lying in a streight line as we observed returning again to the Town which we did most part of the way through woods of Olive-Trees and Vineyards Now no more the street of Piraea as in Pausanius his time About mid-way the Consul shewed us a Well which Monsieur Guilitier takes to be the Fountain near unto which Socrates had a Temple dedicated unto him There was another Wall also which reached from Athens to Phalera so that Phalera Munichia and Piraea with all that Peninsula on which they stood was joyned anciently to the City III. The next fair weather that came III. To SALAMIS or COLOURI we went to visit the Isle Colouri of old time Salavis To go to it we left the way to Eleusia on our right hand as soon as we were out of the Town and about a mile or two further we came to the Wood of Olives through which we passed by a place called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 where they dig a reddish and fat Earth which they make Tiles and Pots of and is in all likelyhood the place where the ancient Town Keramaea once stood taking from the Potters trade both its old name and new Near unto this Town was the famous Academia from which all other places celebrated for the liberal Sciences and Learning have borrowed the name of Academy Nevertheless famous as it hath been and is still in great renown yet is the memory of it here utterly rased out and its situation so obscurely marked and set out by ancient Writers that it hath been almost an insuperable difficulty to determine where it was Some have placed it in the way to Capo Colouni from Suidas his calling it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 an high place there being none such in this way but only in that Wherefore I was much of that opinion also But my Comrade shewed me my error believing that Suidas might have some other reason for his calling it a high place than that which I thought of And it seems very probable to have been only from the Tower that was there from which they began their Races they ran with lighted Torches in the Panathenian Games Moreover it is plain by that passage in Cicero that Ceramica was but six Stadia from the gate Dipylon called in times more ancient Porta Thriasia because it led to the Town Thria which was most certainly towards Eleusis See Meursius pop Att. in Ceramicus behind the Hill Corydalis And it is no less certain out of ancient Authors that Ceramicus and Academia were together six Stadia from Athens either upon or nigh unto the Eleusinian Road. But there is now nothing remaining of it save only a small Church hard by which seems to be built out of more ancient ruins among which are some Inscriptions and they
call the place about it Palaeo-Chori that is Old-Towm Having passed through the Olive-yards about a mile further we left an old Tower a little way to the left hand My Companion stepp'd to it and finding several Inscriptions upon Sepulchral Pillars he copied them and so we came at last to the end of the plain to the Sea-shore where Mount Corydalis running with its Western point a little into the Sea makes the Promontory Amphialia about six or seven miles from Athens Between this Promontory and Salamina is a Streight which is not a mile over in the narrowest part where we passed it over by a Ferry attending there for Passengers Salamis is now called Colouri and as our Consul esteems it is about fifty Miles in compass It hath a Harbour on the West-side eight Miles in length and three Miles broad in the largest space It is of an Ovael Figure and at the bottom of its Bay hath a Town of the same name with the present name of the Island viz. Colouri This Town at present consists of about an hundred and fifty poor Cottages and perhaps of four hundred Persons There are two other Villages in the Island the one situate upon a Hill on the South-side of the Harbour about five or six Miles off and in sight of Colouri and is called Metropis The other called Ambelachi is situated near the Streight towards Athens They consist of about thirty Houses apiece The antient City Salamis was by this last remov'd a little more to the Sea-side where it had a little Harbour in which at this day appear many antient Foundations under Water of carved Stone and according to the appearance of Ruins all thereabouts the City ought to have been near four Miles about Near the Ruins of an antient Temple we found these Lines on a black Marble Stone which hath the antient name ΣΑΛΑΜΙÎΑ Salamis engraven on it ÎΙΚΟΚΛΗΣ ΗΓΗΣΙΠΠΟΥ ΑΠΑΓΥΡΑΣΙΟΣ ΕΙΚΟÎΑ ΤΗΠΔΕ ΑÎΕΘΗΚΕΠÎΙ ..... ΜΩΠΠΑΤΡΟΣ ΕΑΥΤΟΥ ΑΘΑÎΑΤΟΙΣΙ ΘΕΟΙΣ ΚΟΣΜΩΠΙΕΡΑΠΣΑΛΑΜΙÎΑ That is Nicocles Son of Hegesippus of Anagyra NI .... Perhaps Nicocles erected this Statue of his Father to the Immortal Gods adorning holy Salamis This Island was the Kingdom of Valiant Ajax and this was the chief City of it Ajax was then so powerful as Homer testifies that he furnished a dozen Sail of Ships to joyn with the rest of the Navy of Greece in the Trojan War This Island in after-times was much contended for between the Athenians and Megarians but to whom soever of right it belonged the Megarians were forced to submit to and acquiesce quiesce in the Conquest of it by their more powerful Neighbours the Athenians We saw and copied several other Inscriptions and a little Basso-relievo I found masoned in the Wall of an old Church which I prevailed with the Pappa to remove and is one of the three I described at Athens Salamis hath many high Rocks and Cliffs but withal several fruitful Valleys running between them which bear good store of Wheat and Barley Of the Pine-trees on the Hills they make good store of Pitch and of the Lentiscus Wood growing there in good plenty they make Soap-ashes So that with these Commodities and their Fishing the Inhabitants make shift to get a poor Living Athens being their Market for all Above the Village Colouri PLANTS at SALAMIS or COLOURI is a high cragged Rock upon which among other Plants I gathered a kind of Medica which creepeth on the Ground and is beset with Leaves growing close to the Stalk something like Kidney-Vetches every Stalk being set with them three four five and sometimes six upon a Stalk covered with a Silver Hoariness The Flowers follow in little Tufts of five or fix golden-colour'd Blossoms these are succeeded by crooked flat Cods like a Half-Moon and not much unlike to Gerard's Trifolium lunatâ siliquâ pag. 1217. It agreeth well enough with his Description but not with his Figure for the Leaves of this are not snipped at the Edges as his Monsieur Merchant called it Auricula muris Camerarii There is another somewhat like to this but the Leaves of it are shorter and broader than the other The â—â—â—wers grow five or six together close to a creeping Stalk each followed with a large Husk swelled like a Bladder of a shining Silver-colour which when the Blossom is past swells bigger but what Cod it makes I saw not I gathered there also in the Fields a little kind of Iris or Flag bearing a pretty white Flower about a handful high from the Ground and the Leaves no broader nor longer than the ordinary Grass About Salamis we observed several other little Islands LIPSOCATALIA as between the Streight and Porto-Lione a desart one called now Lipsocatalia but by Strâbo Psytalia Beyond the Streight towards Eleusis are two other little Rocks or Islands close together the one called Megala Kira and the other Micra Kira On one of these it was called antiently also Kera that Xerxes built a Silver Throne to sit and see the Battle fought between his and the Grecian Fleet the Issue whereof was That the Greeks handled his great and numerous Navy so that in the end he hardly escaped himself in a small Boat We contented our selves with the sight of the rest of the Islands in the Saronick Gulph by viewing them from the Attick Shore But our good Friend the Consul who had often visited them gave us also a more particular Account of them by the help of which and our own Observation we are enabled to give a more exact Account of it than any hath been yet published which I think very proper to insert in this Place because the whole Saronick Gulph is so frequently mentioned in antient History This Gulph is contained within the Promontory Sunium now called Capo Colonni on the Attick Shore and Schillaeum now Capo Skillo on the Morean of Peloponnesian Shore which I suppose to be about two or three and twenty Miles distant from each other by the Observations I have made as well upon Mount Hymettus as the Promontory Sunium and by the same Proportion from the Entrance to the bottom of the Gulph to the Isthmus is about fifty five Miles There are many little Islands in this Gulph but the principal are Aegina Colouri and Porus and these only are inhabited They had in times past a Veivode and Caddi common to them all But of late they have thought good to make an Agreement with the Captain Basha and to pay him yearly seven hundred eighty five Dollers for all their Duties By which means they are left to themselves and might grow Rich again did not the Corsairs haunt them so much For they have Ground enough to cultivate for so few Inhabitants Aegina is now the chief Island AEGINA and giveth Name at present to the whole Gulph as the River Saron did in times past It continues its antient Name still among the Greeks although our Seamen corruptly Tcall it
was formerly Coronea MINERVA ITONIA then the Ruined Tower may have been the place where the Temple of Minerva Itonia sometimes stood which was the place where all Boeotia used to assemble in Council Thence coming nearer to the foot of the Helicon I passed by a very pleasant Prospect into a little Plain inclosed every way with prominent parts of the Mountain except one narrow Passage for entrance to it like to a Sea-Port Hence we soon mounted up to St Georgio situate on the side of Helicon having left a Village below it on the right hand Either St Georgio or this Village was probably the Alalcontenae of old time This Town is called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or St George from a Monastery there dedicated to him There are two or three Churches here in which are some Inscriptions of Antiquity But I could not see them because my Guide was afraid of the Turks and my Druggerman was return'd to Athens to give the Consul an account of my Resolutions to proceed on my Voyage to Zant. So we staid not long in this place but mounted up a considerable way higher toward the top of the Helicon with intentions to pass quite over it unto the Convent of Saint Luke But we were hindred by the Snow which was not yet passable This Mountain is now called Zagara by the Turks M. ZAGARA the HELICON from the great abundance of Hares they say breed there although there be plenty of other Game also especially Wild Boars and Dear But it is known out of Strabo undoubtedly to be that famous Helicon of the ancients For agreeable to his Description it lyeth upon the Crissean or Corinthian Gulph bordering upon Phocis which it regards Northward somewhat inclining to the West And as the saith its high Cliffs hang over the last Harbour of Phocis which was therefore called Mycus nor is it not far distant from Parnassus nor inferiour to it either in height or the compass of ground that it stands on Finally that they are both Rocky Mountains and the tops of them perpetually covered with Snow Mount Helicon was in old times consecrated to the Muses by the Thracians and was the native Country of the ancient Poet Hesiod who was born at Ascra an inhospitable Town on the side of it towards the Sea whom Ovid seems to follow and imitate but with more briskness and less gravity Hesiod seems with more respect to celebrate the Gods as it became his perswasion of them and with more earnestness to press men to Justice Vertue and Humanity which is as much to be preferred before the others bawdy and lying stories of them as all Moral and Christian Vertues infinitely transcend the obscene Lampoons of our present Age being really more beautiful and attracting Objects than any Mistresses in the World I found not those Monuments either of Hesiod Orpheus or the Muses Pausanias in his time professeth to have seen there And as to the Fountain Hippocrene the famous haunt of the nine Sisters it was then frozen up if it were where I guess'd it to have been So that were I a Poet and never so great a Votary of those Heliconian Deities I might be excused from making Verses in their praise having neither their presence to excite nor their liquor to inspire me For having gone two or three Miles forwards on the top till I came to the Snow my further proceedings that way were hindred only alighting I made shift to clamber up the Rocks somewhat higher until I came to look down into a place encompassed round with the tops of Mountains so that the inclosed space seemed to me to be a Lake frozen and covered with Snow But my Guide telling me be passed that way once in the Summer time with Monsieur Nantueil the French Embassador and then saw it a very pleasant green Valley covered with Flowers having a very good Fountain in the middle of it I am much inclin'd to think the Hippocrene was there and there also in antient times the delicious Grove of the Muses I observed likewise great store of the Male-Fir-Tree growing on this Mountain whose Turpentine is very fragrant much resembling the smell of a Nutmeg and some of that Leopards-bane whose root is like a Scorpion But her partly the cold of a backward Spring and partly the time of Year hindred me from making any further discoveries in that kind I shall only tell you what Pausanias telleth me viz. that the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is one kind of an Arbutus or Strawberry-Tree beareth sweeter fruit here than in any other place he knows which may well be although I took no notice of any there I saw here also a very large Tortoise newly come out of ground to enjoy the warm Sun and of which they say there is great plenty bred there We return'd to the brow of the Mountain by the same way we came and thence I had a fair and large Prospect of the Plains of Boeotia Northward and observed the Mountain Delphi of Egripo to lie exactly East of us and another of the same Island to lie East-North-East We left the way to St. Georgio and turning to our left hand descended into a Plain between the Mountain Helicon and another little Mountain the Eastern end of which comes up near to it and the Town of St. George but thence runs North-Westwards beyond Livadia which it hath under it on the North-side This Mountain from the Plain of Boeotia seems not at all distinct from the Helicon although it hath a Plain between it and that in some places I believe three or four Miles wide On the top of it on the East end we saw Granitza GRANITZA which I was told was a Town and Bishoprick under the Jurisdiction of the Archbishop of Athens Here is also a Convent of Caloires or Greekish Monks which is all I could learn of the place only from the ancients I gather that this Mountain was called by two distinct names to wit Laphytius on this end LAPHYTIUS and TELPHYSIUM mm. and Telphysium on the Western In descending we turned still round the Helicon to our left hand and in our way passed by many Fountains that issue out of the sides of that Mountain some of which run down into the Plain of Livadia as far as the Lake into which they flow others collect themselves into a Stream in this Valley One makes a fine Cascade almost from the top of the Mountain and I believe runneth from the Lake I before spake of on the top of the Helicon by its nearness to that place There was abundance of the Narcissus Flowers growing along the Banks of this Stream so proliferous that I had not before seen any the like having seven eight nine sometimes ten Flowers upon the same stalk and very fragrant Here my Guide proved to be near as ignorant and unacquainted in the Country as my self and it growing towards Night we knew not whither to go to Lodge
ΚΟΡΙÎΘΙΟΣ ΣΜΥΡÎΑΙΟΣ ΜΟÎΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΩΤΟΣ ΤΩΠΑΠΑΙΩÎΟΣ ΠΥΚΤΩΠÎΕΙΚΗΣ ΑΣ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΕΞΗΣ ΠΑÎΕΛΛΗÎΙΑ ΟΛΥΜΠΙΑ ΙΣΘΜΙΑ ΑΔΡΙΑÎΕΙΑ ΡΩΜΗ ... ΕÎΙΚΑ ΔΕ ΘΕΜΑΤΙΚΟΥϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΑΛΑÎΤΙ ΟΥϹ ΑΓΩÎΑϹ ΤΡΙΑΚΟÎΤΑ ΠΕÎΤΕ ΕΤΕ .. ΤΑ ΕΤΩΠΤΡΙΑΚΟÎΤΑ ΔΥΟ ΜΗΠΩΠΤΡΙΩΠΜΑΡΧΟΣ ΤΥΛΛΙΟΣ ΕΥΤΥΧΗΣ ΕΠΟΙΕΙ ...... ΑΔΕΛΦ .. ΤΟΠΟΠΕΔΩΚΕ ΚΛΕΙΤΟΡΙϹ About this Gymnasium were an hundred Pillars of Aegyptian Marble It is hard to determine whether the Temple of Jupiter Olympius was here or no and whether the Plane of this Portico of an hundred and twenty Pillars was any more than part of it For the whole place environing them is very large as appears by the Foundations of the Walls which are of good Stone well hewn and upheld with strong Buttresses the Plane of these Pillars being only an Oblong in the middle of it Pausanias also mentions that Temple both before and just after this promiscuously But I suppose it was in another place of which more hereafter I remember that I took the Dimensions of the Plane of this Place but find them not among my Papers Under those Pillars that yet stand with their Architraves on them is a little Church built out of pieces of Pillars and other Rubbish very badly without any Chalk or Lime but rudely laid together which I should not have mentioned had not Monsieur Guiliter called it the Temple of Jupiter and Juno Panhellenii than which scarce any thing can be more ridiculous The truth of it is such a Temple might be some where in this Quarter For Adrian built a great way about here along the River Ilissus and North-Eastward towards Mount St George or Anchesmus and called it his Town as the Inscription on the Gate of white Marble between these Parts and the rest of the City testifie For towards the City it is written in Greek This is Athens in times past the City of Theseus and on that side looking toward the Pillars But this is Adrian's and not the City of Theseus Lib V Porta Hadriani This Gate looks awry towards the Plane of the Pillars without any right Angle in respect of the Wall although it seems to lead towards it This Quarter of the City was called also New Athens as we learned by part of an Inscription on an Aqueduct under Mount Saint George which may be from hence near a Mile Lib V Aquaeductus Hadriani On the South-side of the Mountain HADRIAN'S ' AQUEDUCT on a piece of an Architrave of Marble sustain'd by two Ionick Pillars which though it is but a part I easily comprehended by it what the Figure of the whole should be the one half of it being gone My Companion copied it all at Spalatro out of a Manuscript Two hundred Years old and is as you may see it in this Figure Gruterus places it at Milan in Italy but by what Mistake I know not For here is the first half of it and shews that it was begun by Adrian in the New Athens and finished by his Son Antoninus Pius I believe this was only the Frontispiece of the Repository or Receiver of the Water For behinde it is a Place large and almost square filled up with Dirt and Rubbish and looks as if it had been a Cistern cut out of the Rock Nor are the Ionick Pillars of this Architrave above half way to be seen above ground Concerning New Athens at Delos I have there already spoken One day we elimbed this Mountain which is a Rock very steep craggy and difficult to be mounted But being gat up is the most eminent and perspicuous Place of the whole Plain of Athens and from whence I securely observed every be 〈◊〉 Object 〈…〉 that only 〈◊〉 the South West-side of the 〈◊〉 excepted I wish I could make you tast the same Satisfaction 〈…〉 Prospect â—hat I then 〈◊〉 and still do when I consider it It seemed to me a more 〈◊〉 Seat of the Muses than the other Hill where Mâ—â—saeus himself chose to inhabit Here either a Democritus might sit and laugh at the Pomps and Vanities of the World whose Glories so soon vanish or an Heraclitus weep over the manifold Misfortunes of it telling sad Stories of the various Changes and Events of Fate This would have been a Place to inspire a Poet as the brave Actions performed within his view have already exercised the Pens of great Historians Here like Virgil he might have sate and interwoven beautiful Descriptions of the Rivers Mountains Woods of Olives and Groves of Lemons and Oranges with the celebrated Harbours on the Shore and Islands sometimes Kingdoms in the Saronick Sea all lying spread before him as on a Map Which I was contented to do only in Contemplation and with a Sea-compass to mark out the most considerable Places on Paper Adrian's Pillars are seen from this high Rock South-West The STADIUM and East of them but South South-West West from hence over the River Ilissus we saw the Stadium looking like a small Hill The way to it from the Town is by an antient Bridge of three Arches built cross the Ilissus of large hewn Stone laid firm together without Mortar and is about forty foot long On this Bridge was formerly a great Monastery but now forsaken since the Turks took Athens The Stadium was the Place where antiently they ran Races fought wild Beasts and celebrated those other publick Games of All-Attica called Panathenia It was probably here that they chased the Thousand Wild Beasts which Adrian every Year gave to the People for their Divertisement It s Figure and bigness continue although the Degrees be all taken away It is a long Place with two parallel sides closed up circularly at the East end and open towards the other end and is about One hundred twenty five Geometrical Paces long and Twenty six or Twenty seven broad which gave it the Name of a Stadium that length being the ordinary measure among the Greeks eight of which made a Roman Mile Mt Vernon measuring it exactly found it to be Six hundred and thirty English feet long and a just Stadium is Six hundred Twenty five foot of Athenian Measure which it seems was but very little bigger than the English but lesser than the French foot When Pausanias comes to speak of this Place he tells his Readers That they would hardly believe what he was about to tell them it being a Wonder to all those that did see it in antient times and of that bigness that one would judge it a Mountain of white Marble upon the Banks of the River Ilissus It was Herodes Atticus one of the richest Citizens Athens ever had that built it to do which he consumed much of the Marble of Mount Pentelicus which now being either all carried away or buried in the Ruins of the Place it looks now only like a great and high Bulwark cast up in that Form At the End towards Ilissus there appears yet some Stone-work the rest is now but a Stadium of Earth above Ground This was the same Herodes
Atticus that built also the Stadium at Delphos and many other Magnificent Structures in other Parts of Greece But was not that Herodes that Reigned in Judaea at the time when Christ was born as Monsieur Spon hath shewed by a short but just Account out of Antiquities and Authors that mention him which because it is a Curiosity that every one doth not yet know I will not omit About the Beginning of this Century HERODES ATTICUS two Inscriptions were found at Rome one of this Herod and the other of his Wife Regella Casaubon gives the Explication of the first but as learned as he was he mistook notably in taking this Herod for him that Reigned in Judaea Arcudius with much better success shews That the Inscription concern'd that Illustrious Herod the Athenian But because every one knows not so much I will give you these following Particularities of it Heredes Atticus was a Citizen of Athens born at Marathon a little Town pertaining to the Tribe of Ajax He flourished about the time of the Emperours Trajan Adrian Antoninus and Marcus Aurelius His Grand-Father Hipparchus or as Suidas has it Plutarchus was well to pass in the World But having been accused of some Tyrannical Practices used towards the People the Emperour confiscated all his Estate so that his Son Atticus Father of this Herod lived afterward at Athens in a mean condition Until having found a great hidden Treasure in his own House near the Theater he became on a sudden very Rich. He was not more fortunate in finding it than prudent in getting it confirmed on himself For well knowing should it come to be discovered he should be obliged to give an Account of it to the Emperour because by the Law All found Treasure belongs to those Sovertign Princes in whose Dominions it is found and then he must look to become again as poor as ever He therefore forth-with wrote a Letter in this manner to the Emperour My Liege I have found a Treasure in my House what do you command that I shall do with it The Emperour answered him That he should make use of what he had found But Atticus yet fearing he might be in danger of some trouble when the greatness of the Treasure should come to be known wrote the second time to the Emperour professing ingeniously That the Treasure he had written to him about was too great a Possession for him and exceeded the Capacity of a private Man But the Emperour answers him again with the same Generosity Abuse also if thou wilt the Riches thou hast so ancidentally come by for they are thine By this means Atticus became again extream rich and powerful having married a Wise also that was very rich Whence it came to pass that his Son and Heir Herodel far surpassed his Father both in Wealth and Magnificence and became the Founder of many stately Edifiers in sundry Parts of Greece and dying left by his last Will ten Crowns to every Citizen of Atheus Neither did he partake less of Vertue and Merit than he did of Fortunes being very learned and so eloquent that he was called The Tongue of Athens having been the Disciple of the famous Phanoriuns Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Veras Emperours of his time made it their Glory that they had been his Auditors His entire Name was Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes as I prove by an Inscription that is at Athens in the House of Signior Nicolo Limbonai ΤΟΠΑΡΧΙΕΡΕΑ ΤΩΠΣΕΒΑΣ ΤΩΠΤΙΒ. ΚΛΑΥΔΙΟΠΑΤΤΙ ΚΟΠΗΡΩΔΗΠΜΑΡΑΘΩÎΙΟΠΗ ΑÎΤΙΟΧΙΣ ΦΥΛΗ ΑÎΕΘΗ ΚΕΠΕΥÎΟΙΑΣ ΕÎΕΚΕΠΚΑΙ ΕΥΕΡΓΕΣΙΑΣ ΤΗΣ ΕΙΣ ΤΗΠΠΑΤΡΙΔΑ That is The Tribe of Antiochus erected this Statue to Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes of Marathon Chief Priest of the Emperours for his Good Will and Munificence to his Country Philostratus mentions some of his Works which are perished long before these times He was made a Roman Consul with Torquatus in the Year of our Lord One hundred forty and three A Monument of which we found at Megara in the Walls of the City near the Church Panagia Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΤΙΒ. ΚΛΑΥΔΙΟΠΑΤΤΙΚΟΠΥΠΑΤΟΠΕΠΙ ΕΥΕΡΓΑϹΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΥÎΟΙΑϹ ΤΗϹ ΠΡΟϹ ΤΗΠΠΟΛΙΠWhich shews That the Senate and People had erected that Monument to Tiberius Claudius Atticus the Consul for his Munificence and Good Will to the City He married a most vertuous Roman Matron named Regilla in whose Memory he built a cover'd Theater for Musick at Athens And after her Death put his House in Mourning with black Marble of Lesbos to make it an Eternal Monument of his Grief for the loss of her He built also a Temple at his Country-house called Triopnaea near Rome where those Inscriptions were found of which I have spoken and are now to be seen in the Vigne Borghese He died at threescore Years of Age and left two Sons of whom History is silent He gave order to his Freemen to bury him at Marathon the Place of his Birth But the Athenians would have his Body with them and made him be brought thither by some of their young Men burying him in the Stadium Panathenaeum which he had built accompanying his Body to the Grave weeping like Children for the loss of their Parents Advancing a little higher upon the River Ilissus on the left hand The TEMPLE OF THE ILISSIAN MUSES we saw the Foundations of a little round Temple discovered not long since by an Inundation which did a great deal of Mischief to the Athenians throwing down their Country-Houses Trees and Walls and quite destroying all their Gardens in its Passage This probably was the Temple of the Musae Ilissiades being seated upon the Banks of this River according as Pausanias informs us From whence Boreas in a Whirlwind took away the Nymph Orithya whom he found sporting upon these Banks A little further on the right hand of this River is another small Temple since turned into a Church and consecrated to the Memory of St Peter's Crucifixion called Staurosis Petrou or as others speak it Stauromenou Petrou The Floor of which is paved with antient Mosaick Work and the whole Fabrick of white Marble This was undoubtedly the antient Temple of Diana Agrotera or Diana the Huntress whence the Campagne about it beyond the Ilissus was called Agra from Diana's first Hunting there when she came from Delos And those Parts towards the Mountain Hymettùs do yet abound with Hares and Partridges Hard by this is a little Stream falling into the Ilissus which hath its Rise at a Monastery situated on the side of the Mountain Hymettus called by the Greeks Cyriani and by the Turks Cosbashi or Sheep's Head the Fountain of Ilissus being more Eastward The greatest part of the Water of both of them is collected into Pipes under ground and brought to Athens My Opinion is That this is rather the Eridanus than the other which waters the other side of the Plain of Athens not only because Strabo plainly calleth the other Cephisus but also