said before that the boats and barkes comming downe are sold at the end of the way because they cannot be brought vp against the streame Brisake is seated vpon a round and high Mountaine and though it bee improbable that there should be any want of waters so neere the foot of the Alpes yet this City hath a fountaine where water is sold and a certaine price is giuen for the watering of euery beast VVe passed the other eight miles to Strasburg the same day in eight houres being helped with the same swiftnesse of the Rheine which being oft diuided by the way makes many little Ilands The bridge of Strasburg ouer the Rheine is more then a Musket shot from the City on the East side therof The bridge is of wood and hath threescore fiue Arches each distant from the other twenty walking paces and it is so narrow that an horse-man can hardly passe by a cart it lying open on both sides and it is built of small pieces of timber laid a crosse which lye loose so as one end being pressed with any weight the other is lifted vp with danger to fall into the water It is like they build no stronger bridge either because they haue tryed that the swift course of the Rheine will easily breake it downe or because in the time of warre it may be good for them to breake it in which case it were farre greater charge to rebuild it with stone then with wood The Rheine lying thus farre off from the City the boats are brought vp to the same by a little channell The brookes of Bress and Elb passe through many streets of the City and fill all the large ditches thereof with water The City is very well fortified hauing high walles of earth the bottomes whereof are fastned with stone and the sides with trees planted on the same On the VVest side towards France are the gates Weissen-thore and Rheine-thore On the East side toward the Rheine is the gate Croneberg-thore at which though it be out of the way for the iealousie of neighbour-hood the French must enter and at no other On the East side is the Butchers gate called Metsiger-thore On the same side is the Cathedrall Church The circuit of the Cty is three houres walking The buildings and Churches are faire and high of free stone most of the streets are narrow but those diuided by water are broader I paied six Batzen a meale and for wine extraordinary three Batzen the measure Many things in this City are remarkable The Steeple of the Cathedrall Church is most beautifull and numbred among the seuen miracles of the world being begun in the yeere 1277 and scarce finished in twentie eight yeeres In the building of one gate thereof they say three Kings treasure was spent in whose memory three statuaes are there ingrauen The Church is couered with lead which is rare in Germany where the chiefe Churches are couered with brasse growing in the Countrey The brazen gates of this church are curiously carued The Clocke thereof is of all other most famous being inuented by Conradus Dasipodius in the yeere 1571. Before the Clocke stands a globe on the ground shewing the motion of the heauens starres and planets namely of the heauen carried about by the first mouer in twenty foure houres of Saturne by his proper motion carried about in thirty yeeeres of Iupiter in twelue of Mars in two of the Sunne Mercury and Venus in one yeere of the Moone in one month In the Clocke it selfe there be two tables on the right and left hand shewing the eclipses of the Sunne and Moone from the yeere 1573 to the yeere 1605. The third table in the midst is diuided into three parts In the first part the statuaes of Apollo and Diana shew the course of the yeere and the day thereof being carried about in one yeere The second part shewes the yeere of our Lord and of the world the Equinoctiall dayes the houres of each day the minutes of each houre Easter day and all other feasts and the Dominicall Letter The third part hath the Geographicall discription of all Germany and particularly of Strasburg and the names of the Inuentor and of all the worke-men In the middle frame of the Clocke is an Astrolobe shewing the signe in which each Planet is euery day and there be the statuaes of the seuen Planets vpon a round piece of iron lying flat so as euery day the statua of the Planet comes forth that rules the day the rest being hid within the frame till they come out by course at their day as the Sun vpon Sunday and so for all the weeke And there is a terrestriall globe and the quarter and halfe houre and the minuts are shewed There is also the skull of a dead man and two statuaes of two boyes whereof one turnes the houre-glasse when the Clocke hath strucken the other puts forward the rod in his hand at each stroke of the clocke Moreouer there be statuaes of the spring summer Autumne and winter and many obseruations of the Moone In the vpper part of the clocke are foure old mens stutuaes which strike the quarters of the houre the statua of death comming out each quarter to strike but being driuen backe by the statua of Christ with a speare in his hand for three quarters but in the fourth quarter that of Christ goeth backe and that of death strikes the houre with a bone in the hand and then the chimes sound On the top of the clocke is an Image of a Cock which twice in the day croweth alowd and beateth his wings Besides this clocke is decked with many rare pictures and being on the inside of the Church carrieth another frame to the outside of the wall wherein the houres of the Sunne the courses of the Moone the length of the day and such like things are set out with great Art Besides in the City there is a faire house in which citizens and strangers at publike meetings or otherwise vse to feast their inuited friends Neere the gate Rheinethore is the Armory vulgarly Zeighauss which aboundeth with Ordinance and all Munitions They haue a Theater for Comedies and a Tower to lay vp their treasure called penny Tower vulgarly Phennigthurne They say this City is called Argentina in latine of the word Argentum because the Romans of old laid vp their treasure here and Strassburg in Dutch of the word strass that is way and Burg that is a City as being built where many waies lead to many Prouinces I had almost omitted one remarkeable thing namely the faire House of the Cannons called Bruderhoff that is the Court of the Brethren I hired a coach for a Dollor my person from Strassburg to Heidelberg being sixteene miles The first day after dinner I went foure miles to Leichtenou through a plaine all compassed with Gardens and Orchards and paid six batzen for my supper The next morning we went foure miles to Milberk through a sandy
the former And the whole circuit of the City without the wals excluding the suburbes is said to be of sixe miles The market places which are in the streetes are vulgarly called Carrefours as being fouresquare and hauing passage to them on all sides and they are eleuen in number namely foure of the Butchers which vpon a sedition raised by them were diuided into foure tribes the fifth the shambles vpon the mount Saint Genouefa the sixth built for the poore which haue no shops and for the weomen which sell linnen which is vulgarly called La lingeria well knowne for the cosinages of these linnen sellers the seuenth of the brokers vulgarly called La Fripperie the eight and chiefe is in the Iland called Marshes because of the Fenny soyle the ninth is for fishes of the Riuer seated neere the tenth being the little bridge of Saint German of the Vniuersity the eleuenth is without the gate for hogges There be foureteene fountaines besides the fountaine of the Queene and that of the Innocents built of stone The Ville hath eight Hospitals the Vniuersity foure and the Iland two The description of Paris A the Gate Saint Antoine B the Bastile C the gate of the Temple D gate of Saint Martin E gate of Saint Denys F gate Mont-martre G gate Saint Honore H New gate I Le L'ouure K gate Saint Victoire L gate Marcell M gate of Saint Iames N gate Saint Michaell O gate Saint Germain P gate Bussia Q gate Nella R Cathedrall Church S Church Saint Bartholmew T the greater Pallace V Pont denostredame W Pont Au change X Pont aux musniers Y Petit pont Z Pont Saint Michaell XX Pont neuf I will begin the description of the City with the first part thereof called La ville which hath seuen gates from the South east to the North-west I will not speake of the old or inner gates of the old City which gates since the building of the new wals are called false gates as seruing for no vse Onely I will say that they were of the same number and so called as these new gates are and that King Francis the first for comelinesse sake caused them to be demolished The first of these seuen gates lies towards the South-east and is called A Saint Antoine By this gate I entered the City when I came from Chalons and without this gate I did then see the Kings Pallace not farre distant from Paris and most sweet for the seat and building called Bois du' Sainct vincent and then I passed the bridge called Calantoine being without this gate where the Riuer Matrona fals into the Seyne and so entered Paris by the gate and the Church and faire streete of Saint Antoin Neere this gate Francis the first built a fort As I came in on the left hand was the Tower B called the Bastile well knowne by that name which was begun to be built in the yeere 1369 by Hugho Ambriet Prouost of Paris and he being condemned to perpetuall prison for imputed heresie it came to the Kings hand On the same side is the Kings store-house for brasse Ordinance neere the Monastery of the Celestines in whose Church there be many marble sepulchers and among the rest one erected to Lewis of Orleans slaine by the Duke of Burgondy and to his Dutchesse Valentina daughter to the Duke of Milan by King Lewis the twelfth with learned Epitaphs On the same side is the Church of Saint Paul the House of the Queene the house of the Prouost of Paris the publike Senate-house and the place called the Greue famous by the capitall punishment of offenders For in this part of the City called Ville there be three places for the execution of Iustice the other two parts hauing not one place namely this of the Greue and that of the Temple lying on the left hand of the gate called Temple next adioining to this and the third called Luparia lying on the left hand of the scuenth gate called the new gate And from these three places the dead bodies are carried out of the gate of Saint Martin to be buried vpon Mont-falcon And giue me leaue out of order to remember you that Pierre Remy Treasurer and gouernour of France vnder King Charles the faire repaired this Mont-Falcon and that his enemies then wrote vpon the Gallowes standing there this time in French Ence gibeticy ser à pendu Pierre Remy Vpon this gybet here you see Peter Remy hanged shall be And that according to the same hee was in the time of Phillip of Valois hanged there for the ill administration of his office On the right hand as you come in by the same gate of Saint Anthony is a place for Tylting called Tournelles Not far thence at Saint Catherines Church in the Schollers valley is an inscription witnessing that a house was pulled downe to the ground for an arrow shot into the Church when the Rector of the Vniuersity was there at Masse in the yeere 1404 there being at that time a great sedition raised betweene the City and the Vniuersity about a scholler denled with dirt and that this house by permission of the Vniuersity was built againe in the yeere 1516. Also as you come into this gate on the right hand in the Monastery Saint Anthony a dried Crocodill is hung vp which a French Ambassador at Venice left there for a monument in the yeere 1515. And there is a sepulcher of the daughters of King Charles being of blacke marble with their statuaes of white marble Neere that lies the Church yard of Saint Iohn for publike buriall made in the yard of the house of Peter 〈◊〉 which was as pulled downe to the ground in the yeere 1392 because the Constable of France was wounded from thence The second gate towards the East is the gate of the C Temple neere which is the fort called Le Rastillon on your righthand as you come in and this fort or some other in this place was built by Francis the first On the lefthand as you come in is the house of the Templary Knights like a little City for the compasse and from it this gate hath the name And when this order of Knighthood was extinguished their goods were giuen to the Order of Saint Iohn The Church of this house is said to be built like that of Ierusalem and there be the monuments of Bertrand Peter Priors of France the Table of the Altar is curiously painted and here Phillip Villerius Master of the Knights of Saint Iohn was buried in the yeere 1532 to whom a statua of white marble is erected The third gate is called D Saint Martine and it lieth towards the North-east without which gate is the Suburb of Saint Laurence so called of the Church of Saint Laurence The fourth gate is called E Saint Denis and without the same is the Hospitall of Saint Lazarus and the foresaid Mount Falcon and when King Henry the fourth besieged this City he did much
a stranger and a boat daily passeth from Stode thither in some three houres space if the winde bee not contrary wherein each man paies three Lubecke shillings for his passage but all Passengers without difference of condition must help to rowe or hire one in his stead except the winde bee good so as they need not vse their Oares besides that the annoyance of base companions will easily offend one that is any thing nice Hamburg is a Free Citie of the Empire and one of them which as I said are called Hansteten and for the building and populousnesse is much to be praised The Senate house is very beautifull and is adorned with carued statuaes of the nine Worthies The Exchange where the Merchants meet is a very pleasant place The Hauen is shut vp with an iron chaine The Citie is compassed with a deepe ditch and vpon the East and North sides with a double ditch and wall Water is brought to the Citie from an Hil distant some English mile by pipes of wood because those of lead would be broken by the yce and these pipes are to bee seene vnder the bridge whence the water is conuaied by them vnto each Citizens house The Territory of the Citie extendeth a mile or two and on one side three miles out of the walles It hath nine Churches and six gates called by the Cities to which they lead It is seated in a large plaine and a sandy soyle but hath very fatte pasture ground without On the South side and some part of the West it is washed with the Riuer Elue which also putteth a branch into the Towne but on the North and somewhat on the East side the Riuer Alster runneth by towards Stode and falleth into the Elue The streets are narrow excepting one which is called Broad-street vulgarly Breitgasse The building is all of bricke as in all the other Sea-bordering Cities lying from these parts towards Flanders and all the beautie of the houses is in the first entrance hauing broad and faire gates into a large Hal the lower part whereof on both sides is vsed for a Ware-house and in the vpper part lying to the view of the doore the chiefe houshold-stuffe is placed and especially their vessell of English Pewter which being kept bright makes a glittering shew to them that passe by so as the houses promise more beauty outwardly then they haue inwardly Here I paid each meale foure Lubeck shillings and one each night for my bed The Citizens are vnmeasurably ill affected to the English to whom or to any stranger it is vnsafe to walke out of the gates after noone for when the common people are once warmed with drinke they are apt to doe them iniury My selfe one day passing by some that were vnloading and telling of Billets heard them say these words Wirft den zehenden auff des Englanders kopf that is cast the tenth at the Englishmans head But I and my companions knowing well their malice to the English for the remouing their trafficke to Stode were content silently to passe by as if we vnderstood them not Hence I went out of the way to see Lubeck an Imperiall Citie and one of the aboue named Hans-townes being tenne miles distant from Hamburg Each of vs for our Coach paid twentie Lubeck shillings and going forth early wee passed through a marish and sandy plaine and many woods of Oakes which in these parts are frequent as woods of Firre be in the vpper part of Germany and hauing gone six miles we came to a Village called Altslow for the situation in a great marish or boggy ground where each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubeck shillings and a halfe our Dutch companions contributing halfe that money for drinke after dinner In the afternoone we passed the other foure miles to Lubeck in the space of foure houres and vntill we came within halfe a mile of the towne wee passed through some thicke woods of Oake with some faire pastures betweene them for the Germans vse to preserue their woods to the vttermost either for beautie or because they are so huge frequent as they cannot be consumed When we came out of the woods wee saw two faire rising Hills and the third vpon which Lubeck was feated On the top of this third Hill stood the faire Church of Saint Mary whence there was a descent to all the gates of the Citie whose situation offered to our eyes a faire prospect and promised great magnificence in the building The Citie is compassed with a double wall one of bricke and narrow the other of earth and broad fastned with thicke rowes of willowes But on the North side and on the South-east side there were no walles those parts being compassed with deepe ditches full of water On the South-east side the water seemeth narrow but is so deepe as ships of a thousand tunne are brought vp to the Citie to lie there all winter being first vnladed at Tremuren the Port of the City lying vpon the Baltick Sea To this Port one mile distant from Lubeck we came in three houres each man paying for his Coach fiue Lubeck shillings and foure for our dinner and returned backe the same night to Lubeck The building of this City is very beautifull all of bricke and it hath most sweete walkes without the walles The Citizens are curious to auoid ill smels to which end the Butchers haue a place for killing their beasts without the walles vpon a running streame Water is brought to euery Citizens house by pipes and all the Brewers dwelling in one street haue each of them his iron Cock which being turned the water fals into their vessels Though the building of this towne be of the same matter as that of the neighbouring townes yet it is much preferred before them for the beautie and vniformitie of the houses for the pleasant gardens faire streets sweete walkes without the walles and for the Citizens themselues who are much commended for ciuilty of manners and the strict execution of Iustice. The poore dwell in the remote-streets out of the common passages There is a street called the Funst Haussgasse that is the street of fiue houses because in the yeere 1278. it was all burnt excepting fiue houses since which time they haue a law that no man shall build of timber and clay except he diuide his house from his neighbours with a bricke wall three foot broad and that no man shall couer his house with any thing but tiles brasse or leade The forme of this Citie is like a lozing thicke in the midst and growing narrower towards the two ends the length whereof is from the gate called Burke Port towards the South to Millen Port towards the North. Wee entred the Towne by Holtz Port on the West side to which gate Hickster Port is opposite on the East side It is as long againe as broad and two streets Breitgasse that is Broad-street and Konnigsgasse that is Kings-street runne the whole
built like the rest in Hessen Phellip his grandfather built the castle and William his father the wals For my dinner and my part for the coach-man I paide the fourth part of a Doller In the afternoone we passed two miles through woody mountaines to Myndaw in the territory of the Duke of Brunswike who is also Lord of the City The Riuer Visurgis runnes by it ouer which there is a bridge of stone vpon fiue Arches Here each man paid for himselfe and his part for the coach-man seuen maria-groshen for meat and as much for wine The beere of this territory is very bitter and like a potion makes one laxatiue The fifth day we passed three miles and a halfe through Mountaines for halfe the way and the rest through corne fields most fruitfull and dined at Norton each man paying fiue batzen and a halfe After dinner we passed two miles and a halfe to a poore Village through a like fruitfull plaine of corne and by the way we passed Namerton a City belonging to the Duke of Brunswicke In this Village each man paid fiue Maria-groshen The sixt day we passed two miles to the City Zeason through hils and fields of corne the building of the City is of meere clay couered with thatch but our diet was plentifull and each man paid sixe Maria-groshen for himselfe and his part for the Coach-man After dinner we passed three miles to a poore village through wooddy mountaines yet fruitfull of corne and pasture and through a great Fen and here each man paid seuen Maria-groshen The seuenth day we passed three miles to Brunswike through a fruitfull plaine of corne end a large Fen set with willow trees neere the City Many fields as we came besides the corne were set with cabage and rootes and within a mile of Brunswike we left on the right hand toward the South the City Wolfenbieten where the Duke of Brunswike keepes his Court and though he be so called of an old title yet he is not Lord of Brunswike which is a free City of the Empire seated in a plaine all the territory round about it being most fruitfull in corne The City is of a quadrangle forme and in circuit containes two miles being held greater then Nurnberg and lesse then Erford It hath high wals of earth fastened with willowes and is very strong hauing the wals on some sides double and otherwhere treble besides that it hath a wooddy valley between deepe ditches filled with water and is compassed with the Riuer Aneur Within this wall and riuer are fiue Cities distinguished by priuiledges but vnited by lawes The first seated towards the west is called Altstat that is Old city hauing almost at the entrance a faire market place and neere it the cathedrall Church called Martinstifft The second lying towards the North is called Newstat that is New city The third lying towards the East is called Imsacke The fourth lying towards the South is called Imhagen And the fifth which was built first of all and lieth also towards the South is called Altweg that is The old way This city of old was the metropolitan city of Saxony and had the name of Bruno and the Dutch word Vuick signifying a Village It hath twelue Churches whereof two haue the steeples couered with lead which being very rare in Germany is held to be magnificent the rest are couered with tiles one excepted which to my remembrance is couered with brasse which being lesserare with them is lesse esteemed and the houses are built of timber and clay In the yard of the Cathedrall Church there is the statua of a very great Lion which the Emperour Henry the first surnamed Lyon erected there From Branswike I went to Luneburge and the first day in the morning passed foure miles to a certaine Village through a sandy plaine and fenny wild ground and by the way we passed Getherne a village where the Duke of Luneburge Lord of this territory hath a Castle and he holds his court some fiue miles off at Sell. Here each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubecke shillings In the afternoone we passed fiue miles to a countrey house through like Fenny and woody wild grounds seeing but one Village in the way and here each man paid for supper three Lubecke shillings Next morning we passed foure miles to a Village Empsdorff through like grounds and here each man paid for dinner fiue Lubecke shillings the coach-mans part being reckoned for I formerly said that hiring a Coach from Franckfort to Hamburg we were tied to pay for the coach-mans diet himselfe paying for his horse-meat as commonly they doe After dinner we passed three miles to Luneburge through a soyle as barren as the former where each man paid for himselfe and his part of the coach-mans supper eight Lubecke shillings I speake nothing of the City which I haue described before but goe on with my iourney The next morning we passed three miles to Wintzon through a Fenny ground and woods of Oake yeelding some corne but sparingly and here our coach-man paid a Lubecke shilling for his Coach to the Duke of Luneburge whose territory endeth here Then we passed a mile further to Bergendorff and by the way our coach-man passing ouer the Elue paid a Lubecke shilling to the Officers of the Cities of Lubecke and Hamburg to which Cities this territory is subiect and gouerned by them in course the soyle whereof after the passage of the Elue is more fruitfull the fields being full of corne and ditches of water planted with willowes here each man paid six Lubecke shillings for our dinners In the afternoone we passed three miles to Hamburge hauing on the left side towards the West faire pastures and on the right hand towards the East woods of oake and fruitfull hils of corne From hence I passed by boat with a faire wind in three houres to Stode and paid for my passage three Lubeck shillings These things I briefly set downe hauing described these Cities before From Stode I wrote this Letter to Francis Markham an English gentleman whom I left at Heidelberg NOble Sir I gladly take this occasion of witnessing my loue to you which in a word I haue done omitting all ceremonies as your selfe haue giuen me example Onely for my promise sake I will trouble you with the short relation of my iourney When we parted at Eranckfort you know I had for companions of my iourney two Flemmings poore Merchants of Linnen cloth and a Dutch Rider and a Booke-binder of Denmarke I comming first to the Coach tooke the most commodious seat which these my worthy companions forsooth tooke in ill part yet neither their murmuring nor rude speeches could make me yeeld the place to them Wee passed through Hessen to Brunswike which iourney since you purpose to take I aduise you to passe as soone as you can that you may be out of your paine and come to more pleasant Countries for there you shall haue grosse meat sower
wine stinking drinke and filthy beds and were not the way free from robberies and the people curteous I know not what other inconuenience might happen to a stranger in any passage Your diet shall be for most part of cole worts which was so strange to me and so hard of digestion as it greatly troubled me and wrought vpon my body like physicke At Brunswike I saw a lamentable sight which I dare scarce relate to you knowing your tendernes in those cases yet for promise sake I must tell you that I saw a very faire maide of fifteene yeeres married to mine Host an old ohurle of seuenty yeeres Be not discouraged I will tell you a merry accident Who would haue thought that my companions had dissembled so long their malice to mee that now it might breake forth with more bitternes You know Brunswike is a free city of the Empire and one of those which for priuiledge of trafficke vpon these coasts are called Hans-steten Here out of custome passengers comming at first to enter trafficke vse to giue the wine to the old Merchants to which custome gentlemen for sociablenes haue submitted themselues so as the custome is almost growne into a Law Now for this purpose salt being put about the table for all to sweare whether they were free or no I confessed that I had not yet paied for my freedome yeelding my self to their censure To be briefe after they had fined me some cannes of wine and with many ceremonies had made me free it remained that he whom they had chosen to be my God-father making a graue Oration with some rude ieasts after their fashion should instruct me with some precepts how to recouer this expence One of my companions easily tooke this charge vpon him and after many circumstances he concluded in this manner You are an Englishman and because your countrey men loue to sit easily and to fare delicately I aduise you that both at table and in coach you be carefull to take the best place which if you be diligent to performe you shall bee soone satisfied for this expence By chance my place then at table was betweene the coach-man and his seruant for you know the Dutch are not curious of place and little regard strangers in that kinde but I knew where my Gentlemans shooe wrung him namely in that I had chosen my place in the coach And thus I answered him Sir I take thankefully your graue counsell and will make vse of it but me thinkes it is too generall making no distinction of degrees for if I haue Gentlemen to my companions who are not willingly ouercome in courtesie I should rather yeeld them place but if I fall into base and clownish company I will not faile to make vse of your counsell The Gentlemen at Table smiled and so we ended this ceremony with a health Hence I passed to Lunchurg and so to Hamburg where the people after dinner warmed with drinke are apt to wrong any stranger and hardly indure an English-man in the morning when they are sober Therefore without any stay I passed hence to Stode It is strange how the people raile on English-men in these parts For that which we call warre at sea and the royall Nauy that they terme robbery and Pirats ships neither haue they the patience to heare any iustification or excuse You see what toyes I write rather then I will leaue you vnsaluted and if you vse not like freedome to me farewell friendship So I take my leaue from Stode the first of October 1592. From Stode I passed to Emden and for the better explaning of that iourney giue mee leaue to prefix the following Letter out of the due place being written from Emden and directed To AEgidius Hoffman a Gentleman of Flaunders my deare friend Student at Heidelberg NOble AEgidius the Letters you gaue me to deliuer at Breme haue produced a comicall euent such may all the passages be of our loue which you shall vnderstand in a word When in my purposed iourney I came to Stode more tired with the base companions I had then the way it happened whilest I spent some dayes there with my friends euery man spake of Spanish theeues vulgarly called Freebooters who stealing out of their Garrisons vpon the Low-countries lay in the villages and vpon the high-wayes by which I was to passe in my iourney to Emden from which Citie a Merchant was newly arriued who terrified me more then all the rest affirming that in one day he had fallen thrice into these cut-throtes hands and though he were of a neutrall City yet had paied many Dollers for his ransome adding that they inquired curiously after English-men promising rewards in the villages to any man should giue them notice when any such passed I knew not what counsell to take There was no lesse danger from the Pirats of Dunkirke if I passed by sea especially in a ship of Hamburg no other being in the harbour they being like to betray me out of malice to our nation Besides the weather was very tempestious not like to change Therefore my obstinate purpose to see the Cities vpon this coast made me resolue to goe by land So I bought an old Brunswicke thrummed hat and made mee a poore Dutch suite rubbing it in the dust to make it seeme old so as my Taylor said he took more paines to spoyle it then to make it I bought me linnen stockings and discoloured my face and hands and so without cloake or sword with my hands in my hose tooke my place in a poore waggon I practised as much as I could Pythagoricall silence but if any asked me who I was I told him that I was a poore Bohemian and had long serued a Merchant at Leipzig who left mee to dispatch some businesse at Stode and then commanded me to follow him to Emden If you had seene my seruile countenance mine eyes cast on the ground my hands in my hose and my modest silence you would haue taken me for a harmelesse yong man Many pleasant euents happened to me thus disguised wherewith I will not trouble you onely one I am tied to impart to you When I came to Breme I was doubtfull what to doe with your Letters I thought not to deliuer them but keepe them till a fitter time or at least to send them by a messenger But in so doing I should haue broken my promise to you haue lost the fruit of your recommendation and the opportunity to see your mother and sisters without hope hereafter to see them Then I thought to deliuer them and because I was disguised in base apparell to confesse who I was and wherefore so disguised But when I looked my face in a glasse I could not for shame take this course At last I resolued to deliuer them and to say I was seruant to my selfe wherein I lyed not for I haue euer too much obeyed my owne affections and that my master meaning to passe from Stode by
by the way I obserued that the vvaggons hauing past more then halfe the way must haue the way giuen them by all the waggons they meet because their horses should in reason be most weary At Harlam I paied for supper bed and breakfast twenty fiue stiuers Hence I vvent by vvaggon and paied for my part of it sixteene stiuers for three miles to Amsterdam and there receiuing my money returned to Harlam drawne ouer the snow and ice which had plentifully fallen on a sledge for which I paid foure stiuers and I obserued many markes set vp in the fields to direct the way to passengers From Harlam I returned to Leyden where I lodged in a French-mans house for intending to bestow all my time in the French tongue till by Letters I should dispose of my estate in England and there being a famous Vniuersity in this City I found no abiding fitter for me then this I paid for my diet and chamber in this French-mans house three guidens and fifteene stiuers weekely but in the common Innes they pay ten or fifteene stiuers a meale according to the quantity of beere they drinke and ordinarily twenty stiuers or more if they drinke wine Leyden is so called of the words Legt bey de dunen that is lieth by the Downes so they call the sandy bankes of the Sea as the English doe likewise in Kent Leyden is of a round forme or perhaps somewhat longer from the East to the West where the Rheine passeth by it It is a City of much beauty the houses are very fairely built of bricke and be vniforme The Churches are couered with long slates as they be almost through all Holland and among the streetes one is much fairer then the rest in the middest whereof is a peece of ground railed in where the Merchants meet Many streetes are diuided with waters which are passed by woodden bridges and in deede if a man dig two foote in any part of Holland he shall find water I said that the Rheine passeth by this City yet doth it not fall into the Sea but leeseth it selfe in many standing ditches of water in this low part of the continent Toward the North-west about a mile from the City there is the end of a ditch digged of old from the very City vulgarly called Malgatt because the Citizens spent much treasure in a vaine hope to make a Hauen for ships and a nauigable water to come vp to the Towne for the heapes of sand daily cast vp by the Sea filled the place vp where they thought to haue made the Hauen as fast as they could dig it yet was it long before they would cease from this ill aduised worke Notwithstanding salt water comes vnder the earth from the Sea into this ditch and they carry the same vnto the City to make salt thereof Vpon the same Sea-shore towards the North and like distance from the City is a Village called Catwicke seated vpon Mountaines of sands on the maine sea Vpon the same shore further towards the North is a place where they say the Romans of old had an Armory the ruines whereof some musket shot from the shore more or lesse appeare as the wind couers them with sand or blowing from another quarter driues away the sand and so laies them open Hereabouts they say that many coines of the Romans are oftentimes digged vp and neere the Hoch-landish Church is a Monument built by Caligula the Emperour which now belongs to a Gentleman of that Countrey Vpon the North side of this city the Villages Warmond and Nortwicke lie vpon the aforesaid Downes but the City hath no gate that directly leades to them Leyden hath fiue gates Regenspurgport on the West side which leadeth to Harlam and to Catwicke and white port which leadeth to Hage betweene which gates there is a low water-gate of iron grates for boates to passe in and out Neere White Port lies a house where they exercise shooting with the Peece and Crosse-bow On the South side is the gate Kow-port leading into the pastures Vpon the East side is the gate Hochwertz-port more fortified then any of the rest and it leadeth to Vberden Gonda and to Alphen There is another gate Zillport which leadeth ro Vtretcht whither you passe by water or land The foresaid street which I said was the beauty of the Towne lieth from the West to Hochwertzport on the East side and is called Breitstrat that is Broadstreete In the spring time of the yeere 1593 purposing to see the Cities of the vnited Prouinces I hired a Waggon for sixe stiuers and went from Leyden to Delph three miles in three houres space through corne fields and rich pastures and hauing gone two third parts of the way we passed ouer the water that runnes from Leyden to Delph In all these parts the high way hath ditches on both sides and is very plaine sandy and very dry being daily repaired by the countrey people By the way is a mill in which they make oyle of rape and line seedes mingled with wallnut shels and they haue many such miles in those parts Not farre of at Voberg the Histories write of a holy Groue famous for a conspiracy against the Romans The City of Delph lyeth in length from the North to the South and the falrest street called Corne-mart lies the same way Here as in all the Cities of these parts the buildings are of bricke but the houses of Delph are more stately built and seeme to haue more antiquity then other where In the New Church is a Monument of the Prince of Orange the poorest that euer I saw for such a person being onely of rough stones and morter with posts of wood coloured ouer with black and very little erected from the ground Neere the Church is a large market-place and within a little Iland the Senate house is built The Hauen is on the South side The Prince of Orange dwelt heere in a Monastery and vsed to eat in a low parlor whence as he ascended the staires into the chamber a wicked murtherer gaue him his deaths wound who flying by a backe doore was after taken in the Citie and put to a most cruell but most deserued death The Countesse of Buren daughter to this said Prince now liued in this Monastery with her family Here I paied for one meale for my selfe and a guest inuited by me and two pots of Rhenish wine three guldens and fiue stiuers When the Spanish Army most pressed the vnited Prouinces the Prince of Orange then lying here to shunne a greater mischiefe from the Spaniards brake downe the bankes of the sea and let in the waters which did much hurt to the Countrey but saued them from the Spaniards who with great feare hasted away giuing great rewards to those that guided them to the firme continent At Delph are about three hundred Brewers and their beere for the goodnesse is called Delphs-English but howsoeuer they had Brewers and the very
the land being seuered from it by waters and on the sea being hedged in with a strong sea banke but also giue ioyfull rest vnder their power to their subiects on land though exposed to the assault of their enemies The City parted in the middest with the great channell comming in from the sea banke neere the two Castles is of old diuided into six sextaries or six parts vulgarly sestieri three on this side the channell and three beyond the channell The first sextary on this side the channell is that of Saint Marke for howsoeuer it be not the Cathedrall Church yet it is preferred before the rest as well because the Duke resides there as especially because Saint Marke is the protecting Saint of that Ciry The body of which Saint being brought hither by Merchants from Alexandria this Church was built in the yeere 829. at the charge of the Duke Iustinian who dying gaue by his last will great treasure to that vse and charged his brother to finish the building which was laid vpon the ruines of Saint Theodores Church who formerly had beene the protecting Saint of the City And the same being consumed with fire in the yeere 976. it was more stately rebuilt according to the narrownes of the place the Merchants being charged to bring from all places any precious thing they could find fit to adorne the same whatsoeuer it cost The length of the Church containeth two hundred foot of Venice the bredth fifty the circuit 950. The building is become admirable for the singular art of the builders and painters and the most rare peeces of Marble Porphry Ophites stones so called of speckles like a serpent and like stones and they cease not still to build it as if it were vnfinished lest the reuenues giuen by the last wils of dead men to that vse should returne to their heires as the common report goes There were staires of old to mount out of the market place into the Church till the waters of the channell increasing they were forced to raise the height of the market place On the side towards the market place are fiue doores of brasse whereof that in the middest is fairest and the same with one more are daily opened the other three being shut excepting the dayes of Feasts Vpon the ground neere the great doore is a stone painted as if it were engrauen which painting is vulgarly called Ala Mosaica and vpon this stone Pope Alexander set his foot vpon the necke of the Emperour Fredericke Barbarossa adoring him after his submission The outward part of the Church is adorned with 148. pillars of marble whereof some are Ophytes that is speckled and eight of them are Porphry neere the great doore which are highly esteemed And in all places about the Church there be some six hundred pillars of marble besides some three hundred in the caues vnder ground Aboue these pillars on the outside of the Church is an open gallery borne vp with like pillars from whence the Venetians at times of Feasts behold any shewes in the market place And aboue this gallery and ouer the great doore of the Church be foure horses of brasse guilded ouer very notable for antiquity and beauty and they are so set as if at the first step they would leape into the market place They are said to be made to the similitude of the Horses of Phoebus drawing the Chariot of the Sunne and to haue beene put vpon the triumphall Arke of Nero by the people of Rome when he had ouercome the Parthians But others say that they were giuen to Nero by Tiridates the King of Armenia and were made by the hands of the famous engrauer Lisippus These Horses Constantine remoued from Rome to Constantinople and that City being sacked the Venetians brought them to Venice but they tooke of the bridles for a signe that their City had neuer beene conquered but enioied Virgin liberty And all the parts of these horses being most like the one to the other yet by strange art both in posture of motion and otherwise they are most vnlike one to the other Aboue this gallery the Image of Saint Marke of marble and like images of the other Euangelists of the Virgin Mary and of the Angell Gabriell are placed and there is a bell vpon which the houres are sounded for the Church hath his Clocke though another very faire Clocke in the market place be very neere it The roofe in forme of a Globe lies open at the very top where the light comes in for the Church hath no windowes and the Papist Churches being commonly darke to cause a religious horror or to make their candles shew better this is more darke then the rest I passe ouer the image of Saint Marke of brasse in the forme of a Lion guilded ouer and holding a booke of brasse Likewise the artificiall Images of the Doctors of the Church and others I would passe ouer the Image of the Virgin Mary painted ala Mosaica that is as if it were engrauen but that they attribute great miracles to it so as weomen desirous to know the state of their absent friends place a wax candle burning in the open aire before the Image and beleeue that if their friend be aliue it cannot be put out with any force of wind but if he be dead that the least breath of wind puts it out or rather of it selfe it goes out and besides for that I would mention that those who are adiudged to death offer waxe candles to this Image and as they passe by fall prostratero adore the same To conclude I would not omit mention thereof because all shippes comming into the Hauen vse to salute this Image and that of Saint Marke with peeces of Ordinance as well and more then the Duke A Merchant of Venice saued from shipwracke by the light of a candle in a darke night gaue by his last will to this Image that his heires for euer should find a waxe candle to burne before the same Aboue the said gallery are little chambers in which they lay vp pieces of stone and glasse with other materials for the foresaid painting ala Mosaica which is like to engrauing and Painters hauing pensions from the state doe there exercise that Art highly esteemed in Italy The outward roofe is diuided into foure globes couered with leade Touching the inside of the Church In the very porch thereof is the Image of Saint Marke painted with wonderfull art and the Images of Christ crucified of him buried and of the foure Euangelists highly esteemed besides many other much commended for the said painting like engrauing and for other workemanship And there be erected foure great pillars of Ophites which they say were brought from the Temple of Salomon At the entery of the doore is an old and great sepulcher in which lies the Duke Marine Morosini Not far thence is the image of Saint Geminian in pontificall habit and another of Saint Katherine both painted with great
miles in a dirty way to Tortona where I paid one soldo for tribute as all passengers pay and seuen soldi for my dinner vpon reckoning Thence I walked after dinner in a dirty way fiue miles to Ponte Curon and further in a way somewhat fairer fiue miles to Voghera All this way in the Dutchy of Milan was in a most fruitfull plaine of corne with Elmes planted in the furrowes and vines growing vpon them and such is the way in all Lombardy and to the very City of Paduoa At Voghera I paid three reali for my supper and bed And here by chance I sound an English Merchant in the Inne who talking rashly did voluntarily without being examined whence he was professe himselfe to be a Dutchman and my selfe in disguised poore habit sitting at the lower end of the table and speaking to him in the Dutch language he was forced for want of the language to say that he was a Dutch-man but borne vpon the confines of France and knowing no no other language but the French whereupon I speaking to him in the French tongue he had as little skill in that as in the Dutch so as I might perceiue that he dissembled his Countrey and being not willing to presse him as hauing beene my selfe often forced in like sort to dissemble my Countrey did forbeare to speake any more to him in the Dutch or French tongue we began to discourse in Italian wherein he had spoken little before he vttered these words Iome ne repentiua that is Irepented my selfe therof whereas an Italian would haue said Iome ne pentiua by which fillable added by him I presently knew he was an English man Supper being ended he perceiuing himselfe to haue beene thus pressed by a poore fellow sitting at the lower end of the table tooke me for a spie and feared I should betray him and presently went into the stable where he commanded his seruant to saddle their horses that they might ride all night towards Genoa But I following him and boldly speaking English to him he was soone content to stay all night and to take me in my homely apparell for his bedfellow Hauing passed this night merrily I hired a horse the fourth day for foure cauellotti and rode eleuen miles to Bastia then I walked on foot seuen miles to Paula and being afoote-man I paid fiue foldi for my passage ouer the Riuer Po. This iourney hitherto was in a dirty way hauing plaine fields on both sides tilled after the foresaid manner of Lombordy and many rich pastures which are rare in all other parts of Italy Entering Paula I passed a stately bridge built ouer the Riuer 〈◊〉 which runnes from the West to the East and after sixe miles falleth into the Riuer Po. This bridge was two hundred walking prices long and so broad as two carts might passe together and was built of stone and couered ouer the head with a roofe with open aire on the sides supported with pillars The City lies in length from the East to the West and a new faire street diuides it in the middest by the bredth from the South to the North. On the West side of this street are two market places one greater then the other In the lesse is a 〈◊〉 called Regia Sole of mixt mettall vulgarly Dibronzo which some write to haue beene made with art magicke by the Emperour Anastasius for his own image and to haud beene placed by him vpon the pillar of the souldiers at Rauenna where he kept his Court and after Rauenna was taken by Charles the great that this Image being to be carried into France was by the way left here Others will haue it the statua of the Emperour Antoninus Pias for they are deceiued who thinke it the statua of Odoacer King of the Lombards who hath another statua in this market place On the 〈◊〉 West side of the foresaid new street towards the North-side is the Castle which Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Milon built and the same Dukes Library but almost voide of Bookes and in this Castle lies a Garison of Spaniards Neere that is the Church of Saint 〈◊〉 in a Chappol whereof is a stately Sepulcher in which they say the bones of that Saint were laid being brought thither out of the Iland Sardinia And this sepulcher is of marble curiously engrauen and worthy to be sought out and beheld There I did reade this inscription written in Latin vpon another sepulcher The French King Francis the first being taken by Caesars Army neere Pauia the foureteenth of Febru 〈…〉 among other Lords these were Lorayne Francis Duke of Lorayne Richard de la Poole Englishman and Duke of Suffolke banished by his tyrant King Henry the 〈◊〉 At last Charles Parken of Morley kinseman of the said Richard banished out of England for the Catholike Faith by Queene Elizabeth and made Bishop hereby the 〈◊〉 of Phillip King of Spaine ded out of his small meanes erect this Monument to him c. In a Cloyster of the same Church is a Sepulcher of this Charles Parken Bishop decensed in the yeere 〈◊〉 There is another Monument of 〈◊〉 King of Lombardy and another of the Bishop 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 with this inscription in Latin Most 〈◊〉 in the Greeke and Latin langues who being Consull was sent hither into bamshment And with these verses Hath Death 〈◊〉 ought my goodnes mounts the Skies Great is my same my worke liues in mens eyes On the East side of the saide new streete and towardes the North lies the Church of Saint Francis where is a monument of Baldus the Ciuill Lawyer and they shew his head of an extraordinarie bignesse Without the walles of the Citie on the North side is a piece of ground of some twentie miles circuit compasted with a wall in many places broken downe vulgarly called Il Barco that is the Park which Iohn Galiacius Duke of Milan walled in to keepe fallow Deare Hares and Conies but at this day it is diuided into Pastures and plowed fieldes On the furthest side of this Parke from the City is the place where the French King Francis the first was taken prisoner by the Army of the Emperour Charles the fifth Not farre thence is the Monastery of the Carthusians called la Certosa where the building of the Church the stones of Marble the engrauing the top couered with Leade part of the great Altar of Alablaster highly valued the Sepulcher of Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Millan and the reuenew of the Church exceeding three hundred thousand Crownes by the yeere deserue admiration The buildings of the Citie are of bricke and seeme to be of great antiquitie The Emperour Charles the fourth in the yeere 1361 at the instance of Galiacius the second gaue this Citie the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie The King of Spaine permits lewes to dwell here but they may not stay in Milan aboue twentie foure houres This Citie was the seate of the Kings of Lombardy whose old Castle is
prospect and likewise a faire picture of Lucretia ready to die No situation can be imagined more pleasant then that of Arqua lying in the mouth of Mountaines abounding with Oliue trees and opening themselues vpon a fruitfull plaine on the East and North sides This plaine yeeldeth nothing in pleasantnes or in fruitfulnes to that of Capua famous for the corrupting of 〈◊〉 Army But it is a 〈◊〉 worke to praise the Euganian hils which so many Poets and Writers haue magnified Vpon Friday the third day of March after the new stile in the beginning of the yeere 1593 according to the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary of the end of the yeere 1594 according to the English beginning the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March I turned my face to iourney towards my deere Countrey And the first day I rode eighteene miles to Vicenza through a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy where one and the same held yeelds plenty of corne and hath Elme trees growing in the furrowes which support the vines so that one field giues bread wine and wood for to burne By the way my curiositie made me turne aside two miles out of the way that I might see a wonderfull Caue and a most pleasant parlor at Costoza in the house of Cesario Irento a Gentleman of Vicenza The Caue was large and fit to receiue diuers bands of souldiers The Parlor was called the prison of AEolus god of the Windes because there were certaine mils which in summer time draw much wind out of hollow Caues and disperse the same through all the chambers of the Paliace refreshing all that dwell there with a most pleasant coole air And vpon this Parlor this verse of Virgill was written AEolus hic clauso ventorum 〈◊〉 cere regnat AEolus here in the winds prison raignes The City of Vicenza is a faire City compassed with a wall of bricke but the building howsoeuer it be very stately is not like to that of other Cities in these parts in this one point namely that the second story of the houses hangeth ouer the streetes and being supported with arches giueth the passengers shelter from raine Here I did see a Theater for Playes which was little but very faire and pleasant In the market place there is a stately Pallace and the monastery of Saint Corona belonging to the preaching Friars is fairely built and hath a rich Library and the Friars keepe for a holy relike the Thorne wherewith Christ was crowned The Citie is subiect to the Venetians and is seated in a plaine hauing mountaines somewhat distant on the North and South sides Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and eighteene soldi for three measures of oates called quarterolli and for the stable so they call hay straw and the stable roome and so I will hereafter call it I paid twenty soldi Here I hired a horse for fiftie six soldi for a foote-man that had attended me hither and was to returne to Paduoa From Vicenza I rode thirty miles to Verona in a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy lying on my left hand towards Italy farther then I could see and hauing fruitfull nils on my right hand towards the Alpes abounding with vines growing low vpon hort stakes and yeelding rich wines I entered Verona on the East side by the Bishops gate called Porta del'vescono They write that the City was of old called Berona by the name of the Founder thereof but the Friar Leander of Bologna writes that the City was built by the Tuseans and had the name of the Family Vera and was after rebuilt by the Galli Cenomani This most faire City is built in the forme of a Lute the necke whereof lies towards the West on which side the Riuer Athesis running towards the East doth not only compasse the City but runs almost through the center of the body of this Lute so as the lesse part of the body lies on the North side of the Riuer The bankes of Athesis vulgarly called 〈◊〉 Adice are ioined together with three bridges of stone and one of marble and are adorned on both sides with many ruines of an old Theater and old triumphall arches The City is compassed with a wall of bricke and is seated towards the South vpon the end of a large slony plaine and towards the other sides vpon pleasant hils rising towards the distant mountaines It is not built with the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with Arches to auoid raine as other Cities are in those parts but the building of the houses is stately and the Cathedrall Church is remarkeable for the antiquity as likewise the Church of Saint Anastatius for the great beauty thereof and towards the wals the ground lies void of houses as the manner is in strong Townes It hath a pure aire and is ennobled by the ciuility and auncient Nobility of the Citizens who are indued with a chearefull countenance magnificent mindes and much inclined to all good literature Verona was a free City vnder the Empire about the yeere 1155 till the Family of the Scaligeri growing great in the City about the yeere 1259 did by little and little inuade the freedome of the City and made themselues Lords ouer it At last Anthony Scaliger killing his brother Bartholmew partner with him of that Lordship about the yeere 1381 was driuen out of the City by Vicount Iohn Galeatius the first Duke of Milan and he being dead William Scaliger helped by Francis Carrariensis droue the Garrilon of Milan out of the City in the yeere 1404. But the said Francis killing the said William by poison and the Family of the Scaligers being then so wasted as scarcely any one was to be found of that name the Venetians tooke occasion by this detestable treason of the said Francis to make the City subiect to them but their Army being defeated by the French in the yeere 1509 by a composition made betweene the French King and the Emperour Maximilian the City became subiect to the said Emperour till the Venetians recouered the same out of his hands in the yeere 1517 vnder whose subiection the City to this day flourisheth in great aboundance of all things On the North-side of the City without the wals is the mountaine Baldo hanging ouer the City and famous for the great plenty of medicinable herbes and vpon the side of this mountaine within the wals are no buildings but onely a strong Fort. On the south side lies the way to Mantua 23 miles distant and vpon the same side lies the foresaid stony plaine fiue miles long and ennobled with many skirmishes battels and victories In this plaine the Consull Caius Marius defeated the Cimbri and Odoacer King of the Heruli who destroied the Westerne Empire was defeated by Theodoricus King of the Ostrogothes and the Dutch Emperour Arnolphus Duke of Bauaria was defeated by Hugh of Burgandy then possessing Italy
Vpon the same South side within the wals is a faire market place and the Pallace of the Venetian Gouernour which Gouernour in Italy is vulgarly called Il Podesta And necre the wals on this side lies a stately Monument of an old Amphitheater at this day little ruined vulgarly called Harena and built by Luc Flaminius though others say it was built by the Emperour Octauius It passeth in bignesse all the old Amphitheaters in Italy and the outside thereof is of Marble and the inner side with all the seates is of bricke It is of an ouall forme and the inner yard is sixety three walking paces long and forty eight broade where the lowest seates are most narrow whence the seates arise in forty foure staires or degrees howsoeuer others write that there be onely forty two degrees and they so arise as the vpper is still of greater circuit then the lower And the shoppes of the Citizens built on the outside vnder the said increase of the inner circuit haue about fifty two walking paces in bredth which is to be added to make the full breadth of the inside It hath eighteene gates and betweene euery Arch are very faire statuaes and the seates within the same are said to bee capable of twentie three thousand one hundred eightie and foure beholders each one hauing a foote and a halfe allowed for his seate Each one of vs gaue two gagetti to the keeper of this monument Alboinus King of the Lombards was killed by his wife at Verona In the Monastery of Saint Zeno is a Monument erected to Pipin sonne to Charles the Great and betweene this Monastery and the next Church in a Church yard vnder the ground is the Monument of Queene Amalasaenta Barengarius King of Italy was killed at Verona and this City braggeth of two famous Citizens namely the old Poet Catullus and Guarinus a late writer The territorie of this Citie is most fruitfull abounding with all necessaries for life and more specially with rich Wines particularly the Retian wine much praised by Pliny and preferred to the Wine of Falernum by Virgill which the Kings of the Gothes were wont to carrie with them as farre as Rome It is of a red colour and sweet and howsoeuer it seemes thicke more fit to be eaten then drunke yet it is of a most pleasant taste The Lake Bennaeus is much commended for the store of good Carpes and other good fish besides this territory yeelds very good marble Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and sixteene soldi for the stable that is for hay and straw and eighteene soldi for three measures of Oates Certaine Gentlemen bearing me company from Paduoa to this City and being to returne thither did here each of them hire a horse for three lires and a halfe to Vicenza where they were to pay for their horse meat From hence I rode fifteene miles to the Castle Peschiera built by the old Lords of Verona and seated vpon the Lake Bennacus vulgarly called Il Lago di Gardo where they demanded of me two quatrines for the passage of a bridge but when I shewed them my Matricula that is a paper witnessing that I was a scholler of Paduoa they dismissed me as free of all Tributes And in like sort by the same writing I was freed at Paduoa from paying six soldi and at Verona from paying eight soldi I rode from this Castle seuen miles to a Village seated vpon the same Lake famous for the pleasant territory and the aboundance of good fish and here I paid twenty soldi for my dinner and eight soldi for my horse meat All my iourney this day was in a most sweet plaine rising still higher with faire distances so as the ascent could hardly be seene After dinner I rode eighteene miles to Brescia which City flourished vnder thelold Emperours of Italy then was subiect to the Lombards and tyrant Kings of Italy and they being ouercome to Charles the Great and French Gouernours then to the Westerne Emperours of Germany and to the Italian family of the Berengarij And it obtained of the Emperour Otho the priuiledge to be a free City of the Empire till being wasted by the factions of the Guelphi and Gibellini the Scaligeri a family of the same City made themselues Lords thereof whom the Vicounts of Milan cast out of the Citie and when Phillip Maria Duke of Milan oppressed the City and would not be induced to ease the same of his great impositions they yeelded themselues in the yeere 1509 to the French King who had defeated the Venetian Army Then by the French Kings agreement with the Emperour Maximiltan the Citie was giuen into the Emperours hands whose Nephew the Emperour Charles the fifth restored the same to the French King Francis the first who likewise in the yeere 1517 gaue the same into the hands of the Venetians The most fruitfull territorie of Brescia hath mines of Iron and brasse and I thinke so many Castles Villages and Houses so little distant the one from the other can hardly be found else where The Brooke Garza runs through the City which is of a round forme and is seated for the most part in a plaine and towards the North vpon the side of a mountaine where a Tower is built which hath many houses adioining and in this Tower or Castle the Venctian Gouernour dwels who takes an oath that he will neuer goe out of the same till a new Gouernour be sent from Venice The Cities building is of bricke the streetes are large and are paued with flint Boniface Bembus was a Citizen of Brescia and the Brescians as also the Citizens of Bergamo are in manners and customes more like the French their old Lords then the other Italians farther distant from France and the very weomen receiue and giue salutations and conuerse with the French liberty without any offence to their husbands which other Italians would neuer indure Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and forty soldi for foure measures of oates and for the stable From hence I rode thirty two miles to Bergamo and as the territories in this part of Italy lying vpon the South sunne which beats vpon the sides of the hils and mountaines with great reflection of heat and vpon the other side defended from the cold windes of the North and East by the interposition of the Alpes are singularly fruitfull and pleasant so for the first twenty miles of this daies iourney they seemed to me more pleasant then the very plaine of Capua yeelding plenty of corne and of vines growing vpon Elmes in the furrowes of the lands which Elmes are planted in such artificiall rowes as the prospect thereof much delighteth the eye And the other twelue miles were yet more pleasant being tilled in like sort and towards my iournies end yeelding most large and rich pastures The City Bergamo after the Roman Empire was extinct first obeyed the Lombards then the French and following the fortune
of this house Here the Souldiers spoiled our Redeemer of his garments and in scorne attired him with purple 23 The Arch of Pilate which is a gallery of bricke built ouer the street from one wall to another whence Pilate shewed Christ to the people saying behold the man doe with him what you will 24 Here they say the Virgin Mary fell downe fainting when Christ was led to Mount Caluary 25 Here they say that Christ fainting the Iewes tooke his Crosse and laied it vppon Symon of Cyren 26 The Pallace of King Herod 27 Here they say Christ vttered these words Daughters of Syon weepe not for me weepe for your selues c. 28 Here they say the rich glutton dwelt and not farre hence they shew the house where Mary Magdalen washed Christs feete with her teares and dried them with the haires of her head 29 Here they say Veronica dwelt and that this woman gaue her white hand-kercher to Christ when he did sweat blood who wiping his face therewith left the liuely print of it therein about which hand-kercher the Romans and the Spaniards contend both saying that they haue it and shewing it for an holy relike to the people 30 The Gate of old called Iudiciall now not extant by which Christ was led to Mount Caluary to be crucified for this mountaine now inclosed within the wals was then without the wals And the way from the house of Pontius Pilate noted with the figures 22 to this gate is called the dolorous way by the Italian Christians because Christ was led by it to his passion 31 The prison from whence the Angell brought Peter breaking his chaines and opening the iron doore and it is seated vnder the ruines of the Pallace which since that time belonged to the Knights of Ierusalem 32 The Church which the Christians built ouer the Sepulcher of Christ of which I will after write more largely making a rude Mappe thereof as I haue done of the City 33 The Monastery of the Franciscan Friars in which we did Iodge being seated on the highest part of Mount Caluary which since hath beene called the Mount of our holy Sauiour And this is called the new Monastery in respect of the old noted with the figure 6 and onely hath the monuments of the old painted to the visiting whereof the Pope hath giuen large indulgences The Franciscan Friars conducting vs shewed vs some other monuments within the wals And not farre from the gate of Syon noted with the figure 4 they shewed vs 34 the house of the High Priest Anna where Christ was examined by the Pharises and there they shewed vs an Oliue tree which must needs be old to which they say Christ was bound 35 The Church of the Apostle Saint Iames whom the Spaniards call Saint Iames of Gallicia and worship for their protecting Saint who was called Iames the greater and they say was here beheaded This Church is stately built for the pouerty of the Armenians who built it and maintained there an Archbishoppe to keepe it and to performe there the rites of their religion 36 The place where they say Christ appeared to the three Maries dwelling together vpon the very day of his resurrection where the Christians built three Churches which the Turks haue conuerted to 3 Moschees yet bearing no reuerence to the place because they beleeue not that Christ died and much lesse beleeue that he rose againe 37 The house of the Euangelist Saint Marke mentioned in the twelfth Chapter of the Acts. This is the house of Mary the Mother of Iohn surnamed Marke whither Peter came when the Angell deliuered him out of prison into which Herod had cast him noted with the figure 31 At this day there was an obscure Church kept by the Syrian Priests 38 Here they shew the Iron gate which Peter found miraculously opened and by the same entring into the other City came to the house of Saint Marke We going out at Saint Steuens Gate towards the East descended into the vally of Iehosaphat and here they say 39 the bridge stood by which the Queene of Saba passed ouer the Brooke Cedron and that the Crosse of Christ was made of the wood of this bridge 40 In this place they say the Protomartyre Saint Steuen was stoned 41 This smal line without the Easterne gates shewes the bed of the brook Cedron or Kidron which is very narrow hauing not at this time one drop of water so as we passed ouer the stony bed with drie feet But of old when Ierusalem flourished and had many conduits of water drawne to it then it is probable that it was filled with water And at this day when any rainefals the water runnes swiftly from the mountaines on the North side according to this blacke line through the most pleasant vally of Iehosaphat This vally extendeth it selfe on both sides of this brooke some two Italian miles in length but is very narrow and it hath on the West side the wals of the City where Salomons Temple stood vpon the lower part of the Mount Moriah and it hath vpon the East side the most high Mount Oliuet and it hath on the North side mountaines somewhat but not farre distant from the City and vpon the South-side mountaines a little more distant Many interpret the Prophet Ioell in his third Chapter and second verse as if Gods Tribunall at the day of iudgement should stand in this vally and thereupon the Iewes when they die in remote parts will be brought to be buried in this vally for the expedition of their triall But the best Diuines doe teach that the word Iehosaphat signifies the Iudgement of the Lord and that the Prophet may be interpreted figuratiuely namely that as the Lord often defeated with great slaughters the enemies of his Church in this valley so in the day of iudgement he will strike the wicked vvith like confusion 42 Beyond the Brooke is a stately Sepulcher for the most part vnder the earth into which we descended by some fiftie staires and about the middle descent on the left hand towards the City vnder an Altar lie the bodies of Ioseph and Ioachimus and on the right hand the body of Anna namely of the Husband Father and Mother of the Virgin Marie In the bottome is a Church in the middle whereof vnder a stone raised some few feete from the ground they say the Apostles buried the Virgin Mary This Church so they call all places where they haue Altars to sing Masses is very darke hauing no light but by one window or vent made through the earth and vpon this monument lies part of the bed of the Brook Cedron On the right hand the Turks who greately reuerence the monuments of Christ while he liued haue made themselues an Oratory But for the monument it selfe the Franciscan Friers of the Latin Church haue alone the priuiledge to keepe the same and the Altar thereof for their singing of Masses 43 Here is a Caue at the foote