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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A07834	An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions.	Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630.	1617 (1617)	STC 18205; ESTC S115249	1,351,375	915

said before that the boats and barkes comming downe are sold at the end of the way because they cannot be brought vp against the streame Brisake is seated vpon a round and high Mountaine and though it bee improbable that there should be any want of waters so neere the foot of the Alpes yet this City hath a fountaine where water is sold and a certaine price is giuen for the watering of euery beast VVe passed the other eight miles to Strasburg the same day in eight houres being helped with the same swiftnesse of the Rheine which being oft diuided by the way makes many little Ilands The bridge of Strasburg ouer the Rheine is more then a Musket shot from the City on the East side therof The bridge is of wood and hath threescore fiue Arches each distant from the other twenty walking paces and it is so narrow that an horse-man can hardly passe by a cart it lying open on both sides and it is built of small pieces of timber laid a crosse which lye loose so as one end being pressed with any weight the other is lifted vp with danger to fall into the water It is like they build no stronger bridge either because they haue tryed that the swift course of the Rheine will easily breake it downe or because in the time of warre it may be good for them to breake it in which case it were farre greater charge to rebuild it with stone then with wood The Rheine lying thus farre off from the City the boats are brought vp to the same by a little channell The brookes of Bress and Elb passe through many streets of the City and fill all the large ditches thereof with water The City is very well fortified hauing high walles of earth the bottomes whereof are fastned with stone and the sides with trees planted on the same On the VVest side towards France are the gates Weissen-thore and Rheine-thore On the East side toward the Rheine is the gate Croneberg-thore at which though it be out of the way for the iealousie of neighbour-hood the French must enter and at no other On the East side is the Butchers gate called Metsiger-thore On the same side is the Cathedrall Church The circuit of the Cty is three houres walking The buildings and Churches are faire and high of free stone most of the streets are narrow but those diuided by water are broader I paied six Batzen a meale and for wine extraordinary three Batzen the measure Many things in this City are remarkable The Steeple of the Cathedrall Church is most beautifull and numbred among the seuen miracles of the world being begun in the yeere 1277 and scarce finished in twentie eight yeeres In the building of one gate thereof they say three Kings treasure was spent in whose memory three statuaes are there ingrauen The Church is couered with lead which is rare in Germany where the chiefe Churches are couered with brasse growing in the Countrey The brazen gates of this church are curiously carued The Clocke thereof is of all other most famous being inuented by Conradus Dasipodius in the yeere 1571. Before the Clocke stands a globe on the ground shewing the motion of the heauens starres and planets namely of the heauen carried about by the first mouer in twenty foure houres of Saturne by his proper motion carried about in thirty yeeeres of Iupiter in twelue of Mars in two of the Sunne Mercury and Venus in one yeere of the Moone in one month In the Clocke it selfe there be two tables on the right and left hand shewing the eclipses of the Sunne and Moone from the yeere 1573 to the yeere 1605. The third table in the midst is diuided into three parts In the first part the statuaes of Apollo and Diana shew the course of the yeere and the day thereof being carried about in one yeere The second part shewes the yeere of our Lord and of the world the Equinoctiall dayes the houres of each day the minutes of each houre Easter day and all other feasts and the Dominicall Letter The third part hath the Geographicall discription of all Germany and particularly of Strasburg and the names of the Inuentor and of all the worke-men In the middle frame of the Clocke is an Astrolobe shewing the signe in which each Planet is euery day and there be the statuaes of the seuen Planets vpon a round piece of iron lying flat so as euery day the statua of the Planet comes forth that rules the day the rest being hid within the frame till they come out by course at their day as the Sun vpon Sunday and so for all the weeke And there is a terrestriall globe and the quarter and halfe houre and the minuts are shewed There is also the skull of a dead man and two statuaes of two boyes whereof one turnes the houre-glasse when the Clocke hath strucken the other puts forward the rod in his hand at each stroke of the clocke Moreouer there be statuaes of the spring summer Autumne and winter and many obseruations of the Moone In the vpper part of the clocke are foure old mens stutuaes which strike the quarters of the houre the statua of death comming out each quarter to strike but being driuen backe by the statua of Christ with a speare in his hand for three quarters but in the fourth quarter that of Christ goeth backe and that of death strikes the houre with a bone in the hand and then the chimes sound On the top of the clocke is an Image of a Cock which twice in the day croweth alowd and beateth his wings Besides this clocke is decked with many rare pictures and being on the inside of the Church carrieth another frame to the outside of the wall wherein the houres of the Sunne the courses of the Moone the length of the day and such like things are set out with great Art Besides in the City there is a faire house in which citizens and strangers at publike meetings or otherwise vse to feast their inuited friends Neere the gate Rheinethore is the Armory vulgarly Zeighauss which aboundeth with Ordinance and all Munitions They haue a Theater for Comedies and a Tower to lay vp their treasure called penny Tower vulgarly Phennigthurne They say this City is called Argentina in latine of the word Argentum because the Romans of old laid vp their treasure here and Strassburg in Dutch of the word strass that is way and Burg that is a City as being built where many waies lead to many Prouinces I had almost omitted one remarkeable thing namely the faire House of the Cannons called Bruderhoff that is the Court of the Brethren I hired a coach for a Dollor my person from Strassburg to Heidelberg being sixteene miles The first day after dinner I went foure miles to Leichtenou through a plaine all compassed with Gardens and Orchards and paid six batzen for my supper The next morning we went foure miles to Milberk through a sandy

so cleansed the pumpe of their owne Common-wealth as there is lesse danger of this corruption at home then abroad Surely many fall into vices abroad but more at home many returning from forraigne parts after they haue abroad satisfied their disordinate appetites by giuing youth his swinge as the Prouerbeis doe at home cast off their vices and returne to the old bounds of shamefastnesse which at home they neuer violated adding to their old vertues the luster of forraigne ornaments On the contrary most men at home wrapped in the habit of vices by custome taking away both the shame and sence of sinne neuer reforme their debauched life nor forsake vices till in age or death they be for saken by them But among other vices dissembling lying and ielousie are by popular voice deemed proper to Trauellers The first imputation I will referre to the precept of the next Chapter shewing how far it is fit for a wise man to dissemble and the second to the last precept of the same Chapter shewing how a Traueller should gouerne his tongue And in this place by the way I will briefly discusse the reproch of ielousie which the tumultuous flocke of Weomen iniuriously thrust vpon vs Iust as if they should say that by experience and the industrious search of wisdome we should be endued with vices not with vertues or that those who can see farre of yet cannot discerne that which is before their eyes and feet or that those who are skilfull in politike affaires are ignorant in domestical gouernment that those who abhorring litigious suits at law readily make peace with their neighbours would nourish houshold dissentions most odious to a wise man not knowing the tearmes of loue wherewith they are in duty bound to entertaine their dearest friends their sweetest wife Et dulces natos ac pignora chara Nepotes And Children sweet sent from aboue And Nephewes deere pledges of loue But to say truth most honourable titles of old are by abuse growne most reprochfull as the name of Sophysters by their continuall brawlings about Moone shine in the water the name of Elenches by intricate fallacies the name of Tyrants by vnlimited cruelties and the name of ielousie by affecting extremities As that ielousie is most hatefull which growes from malice of nature from a mind guilty of wickednesse or from conscience of any defects in a mans owne body or mind so the vertue of ielousie deere not onely to Trauellers but to all wise men is in my opinion approued of all men that are in their right wits Our very God is in a good sence said to be ielous He that hath a Iewell of price is not willing to haue it snatched out of his hands much lesse out of his sight Reason like a seuere Schoolemaster should ouerlooke all thy owne actions and why shouid it not haue like authority in directing the behauiour of those whose honour or shame cannot be deuided from thine And of this Iudgement so vertue decline not to the neighbour vice betweene which there goes nothing but a paire of sheares as the Prouerbe is you shall euer find the chastest Weomen desiring an husband vertuously ielous For others who had rather not be loued then haue their actions obserued leaue them to be their husbands executioners and to the racke of their owne consciences onely praying them to take this warning that their husbands loues for which perhaps they little care beginne then to freeze or rather vanish away when they haue once cast away all care of their good name since onely vertue combines true loue But the slanderers of this industry presse vs more neerely obiecting that vices ill customes and very heresies are spread through the World by trauellers Let me aske them how wee should haue knowne the diuers eleuation of the Poles who would haue taught vs Geography representing painted Worlds vnto vs how should wee haue learned all other Arts yea how should we haue discouered new Worlds or rather the vnknowne Regions of the old had not this industry of Trauellers been Yea to vse the most binding and concluding argument the sauing knowledge of the holy Gospell had been vnreuealed to vs had not the Apostles excelled in this industrie of making the whole World their Country to preach the same When wee haue thus compared the great and manifest profit of trauelling with the light and doubtfull inconueniences obiected against it we must confesse that they who discourage the affecters of these great rewards by such smal dangers are not vnlike the Sophisters who perswade that blindnesse deafenesse and the priuations of other sences are not to bee numbred among euils because we see many vnpleasing things often heare that which offendeth the eares and for one good smell draw in twenty ill sauors For my part let them dispute neuer so subtilely though they conuince me yet shall they neuer perswade mee to pull out my eyes stop my eares or cut of my nose nor yet to preferre sloth to an actiue life But we must giue eare to Parents Friends and as well priuate as publike Common-wealths-men who not vniustly seeme to feare lest young men by this course should be peruerted from true Religion and by this feare disswade passing into forraigne parts as the chiefe cause of this mischiefe Surely if the vessell be new that taketh an ill sauour it will sticke much faster thereunto but I haue already professed that I would haue a Traueller of ripe yeeres hauing first laid good grounds of all Arts and most especially of Religion Let me speake of my selfe When I beheld the mimicall gestures and cerimoniall shew of holinesse of the Roman Priests vnder the shaddow whereof they abuse the superstition of Laymen with vnspeakable Arts to their owne ambition and couetousnesse and on the contrary obserued their corrupt manners I was so farre from being seduced by them as I could not refraine from laughter and wondered as Cicero speakes of Southsayers that one Priest did not laugh when hee saw another his fellow Priest If you meete a faire painted face the more neere and narrowly you behold it the lesse it pleaseth but if the beauty be true then there is danger least you or your sonne swallow the baite Search corrupted Wares narrowly and they will stinke at thy nose which farther off seeme to be odorifferous Such is the painting of the Papists The English and those of the reformed Church who esteeme their Arguments as speares of bulrushes permit their books to be read in our Vniuersities but they perhaps guiltie of errours will in no sort giue liberty to reade our bookes We appeale to all that are skillfull in Languages for the truth of our translations they by statute of the Iesuites Colledge admit no young Scholler to study languages till he haue taken an oath that hee will vse that skill to the defence of the Roman translations with tooth and naile wherein if they offend their consciences they haue the Popes power of

wine stinking drinke and filthy beds and were not the way free from robberies and the people curteous I know not what other inconuenience might happen to a stranger in any passage Your diet shall be for most part of cole worts which was so strange to me and so hard of digestion as it greatly troubled me and wrought vpon my body like physicke At Brunswike I saw a lamentable sight which I dare scarce relate to you knowing your tendernes in those cases yet for promise sake I must tell you that I saw a very faire maide of fifteene yeeres married to mine Host an old ohurle of seuenty yeeres Be not discouraged I will tell you a merry accident Who would haue thought that my companions had dissembled so long their malice to mee that now it might breake forth with more bitternes You know Brunswike is a free city of the Empire and one of those which for priuiledge of trafficke vpon these coasts are called Hans-steten Here out of custome passengers comming at first to enter trafficke vse to giue the wine to the old Merchants to which custome gentlemen for sociablenes haue submitted themselues so as the custome is almost growne into a Law Now for this purpose salt being put about the table for all to sweare whether they were free or no I confessed that I had not yet paied for my freedome yeelding my self to their censure To be briefe after they had fined me some cannes of wine and with many ceremonies had made me free it remained that he whom they had chosen to be my God-father making a graue Oration with some rude ieasts after their fashion should instruct me with some precepts how to recouer this expence One of my companions easily tooke this charge vpon him and after many circumstances he concluded in this manner You are an Englishman and because your countrey men loue to sit easily and to fare delicately I aduise you that both at table and in coach you be carefull to take the best place which if you be diligent to performe you shall bee soone satisfied for this expence By chance my place then at table was betweene the coach-man and his seruant for you know the Dutch are not curious of place and little regard strangers in that kinde but I knew where my Gentlemans shooe wrung him namely in that I had chosen my place in the coach And thus I answered him Sir I take thankefully your graue counsell and will make vse of it but me thinkes it is too generall making no distinction of degrees for if I haue Gentlemen to my companions who are not willingly ouercome in courtesie I should rather yeeld them place but if I fall into base and clownish company I will not faile to make vse of your counsell The Gentlemen at Table smiled and so we ended this ceremony with a health Hence I passed to Lunchurg and so to Hamburg where the people after dinner warmed with drinke are apt to wrong any stranger and hardly indure an English-man in the morning when they are sober Therefore without any stay I passed hence to Stode It is strange how the people raile on English-men in these parts For that which we call warre at sea and the royall Nauy that they terme robbery and Pirats ships neither haue they the patience to heare any iustification or excuse You see what toyes I write rather then I will leaue you vnsaluted and if you vse not like freedome to me farewell friendship So I take my leaue from Stode the first of October 1592. From Stode I passed to Emden and for the better explaning of that iourney giue mee leaue to prefix the following Letter out of the due place being written from Emden and directed To AEgidius Hoffman a Gentleman of Flaunders my deare friend Student at Heidelberg NOble AEgidius the Letters you gaue me to deliuer at Breme haue produced a comicall euent such may all the passages be of our loue which you shall vnderstand in a word When in my purposed iourney I came to Stode more tired with the base companions I had then the way it happened whilest I spent some dayes there with my friends euery man spake of Spanish theeues vulgarly called Freebooters who stealing out of their Garrisons vpon the Low-countries lay in the villages and vpon the high-wayes by which I was to passe in my iourney to Emden from which Citie a Merchant was newly arriued who terrified me more then all the rest affirming that in one day he had fallen thrice into these cut-throtes hands and though he were of a neutrall City yet had paied many Dollers for his ransome adding that they inquired curiously after English-men promising rewards in the villages to any man should giue them notice when any such passed I knew not what counsell to take There was no lesse danger from the Pirats of Dunkirke if I passed by sea especially in a ship of Hamburg no other being in the harbour they being like to betray me out of malice to our nation Besides the weather was very tempestious not like to change Therefore my obstinate purpose to see the Cities vpon this coast made me resolue to goe by land So I bought an old Brunswicke thrummed hat and made mee a poore Dutch suite rubbing it in the dust to make it seeme old so as my Taylor said he took more paines to spoyle it then to make it I bought me linnen stockings and discoloured my face and hands and so without cloake or sword with my hands in my hose tooke my place in a poore waggon I practised as much as I could Pythagoricall silence but if any asked me who I was I told him that I was a poore Bohemian and had long serued a Merchant at Leipzig who left mee to dispatch some businesse at Stode and then commanded me to follow him to Emden If you had seene my seruile countenance mine eyes cast on the ground my hands in my hose and my modest silence you would haue taken me for a harmelesse yong man Many pleasant euents happened to me thus disguised wherewith I will not trouble you onely one I am tied to impart to you When I came to Breme I was doubtfull what to doe with your Letters I thought not to deliuer them but keepe them till a fitter time or at least to send them by a messenger But in so doing I should haue broken my promise to you haue lost the fruit of your recommendation and the opportunity to see your mother and sisters without hope hereafter to see them Then I thought to deliuer them and because I was disguised in base apparell to confesse who I was and wherefore so disguised But when I looked my face in a glasse I could not for shame take this course At last I resolued to deliuer them and to say I was seruant to my selfe wherein I lyed not for I haue euer too much obeyed my owne affections and that my master meaning to passe from Stode by

them according to the Greeke language for the statua of Isis was at Saint German till it was taken away in the yeere 1514 and a Crosse was set vp in the place thereof by the Bishop of Molun The City hath the name of Lutetia in Latin either of dirt for the Fens adioining or in the Greeke tongue of Morter there digged out because all the floares are of plaster and the houses plastered ouer And some say that it was of old called the City of Iulius Caesar who built great part thereof It lies in the eleuation of the Pole forty eight degrees and the chiefe part thereof namely the Iland or greater City is seated in a fenny ground For the Riuer Seyne hath often ouerflowed Paris and broken downe the bridges In the time of King Phillip Augustus the waters rose to the statuaes without the Cathedrall Church of Saint Mary on the North-side thereof as appeares by an inscription Also in the yeere 1373 for two moneths space they so ouerflowed the City as they passed in boates the streetes of Saint Denis and S. Antoine To conclude omitting many ouerflowings mentioned in Histories it appeares by an inscription in the vally of Misery that in the yeere 1496 there was a great inundation The City of old was all in the Iland and when it could not receiue the multitude increased the City was inlarged to both sides of the continent and first that part of the City called La ville then the third part called the Vniuersity were esteemed suburbes till after they were ioined to the City For the Kings Court and the City still increased with buildings so as the Subburbes were greater then the City whereupon King Charles the fifth gaue them the same priuiledges which the City had and compassed them with wals whereof the ruines yet appeare And new Suburbes being afterwards built King Henry the second in the yeere 〈◊〉 made an Edict that the houses vnpersected should be pulled down and that no more should afterwards be built The Riuer Seyne running from the South and entering at the South-side diuides the City into two parts the greater part whereof towards the East and North lies low in a plaine and is vulgarly called La ville The lesse lying towards the South and West vpon a higher ground is seated betweene hils and is called the Vniuersity Betweene those two parts lies the third namely the Iland called the City which is seated in a plaine and compassed on all sides with the Riuer Seyne running betweene the Ville and the Vniuersity And this part was of old ioined to the Vniuersity with two bridges and to the Ville with three bridges but now a sixth called the new bridge doth moreouer ioine the Iland aswell to the Ville as to the Vniuersity The part of the City called the Ville is compassed on the south and west sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the East and North sides with wals rampiers and ditches in the forme of halfe a circle The second part of the City called the Vniuersity is compassed on the East and North sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South and West sides with wals which they write to haue the forme of a hat saue that the long suburbes somewhat alter this forme For my part it seemed to me that ioined with the Iland it had also the forme of another halfe circle though somewhat lesse then the former The third part called the Iland or City is compassed round about with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South-east side is defended from the floods of the Riuer by foure little Ilands which are marked in the map with blacke ines and lie like Rampiers diuerting the streame from beating on the City To this Iland they passe on both sides by bridges and in respect of the Bishops Pallace he Kings greater Pallace it may be called the heart of the City The old wals of the Ville were first of lesse circuit then now they are for new wals were built which also included the Suburbes and the inner wall is of vnpolished stone the outer wall is of earth compailed round about with ditches which neere the Riuer are broad and full of water but further off towards the North and East are narrow and altogether drie But the old wals are either demolished or conuerted to the supporting of priuate houses The Vniuersity is compassed with like wals and because it is seated vpon high ground the ditches are altogether drie And the wals of earth aswell of the Ville as the Vniuersity are so broad as three or foure may walke together vpon them And round about the City I meane the Ville and Vniuersity compassing the Iland are many rampiers vppon the wall like so many Forts The Iland or City was of old compassed with wals wherewith the greater Pallace lying towards the North at this day is compassed Paris in generall is subiect to the King so as it hath vnder him a peculiar iurisdiction and in spirituall matters it is subiect to the Bishop In the time of King Lewis the eleuenth one hundred and foure thousand Citizens were numbered able to beare armes in the yeere 1466 and King Charles the fifth in the yeere 1371 gaue the Citizens the rights and priuiledges of Gentlemen King Phillip Augustus in the yeere 1090 made Shiriffes to gouerne the City with consular authority and he gaue the City for Armes a ship adorned with Lillies he paued the streetes with flint and compassed the City with wals The Parisians haue raised many seditions The first in the yeere 1306 against rich men raising the rents of houses The second with the King of Nauar and the English against the Dolphin The third in the yeere 1383 against the Kings Treasurers which Charles the sixth returning with his Army out of Flanders did seuerely punish The fourth betweene the factions of Orleans and Burgundy The fifth most pestilent and longest with the Guisians against the last King of Valois The building of the City is for the most part stately of vnpolished stone with the outside plastered and rough cast and the houses for the most part are foure stories high and sometimes sixe besides the roofe which also hath glasse windowes The streetes are somewhat large and among them the fairest is that of Saint Dennis the second Saint Honere the third Saint Antoine and the fourth Saint Martine And in the Iland the waies to these streetes are fairest The pauement is of little but thicke and somewhat broade stones But in the meane time the streetes of the Ville either for the low situation or by the negligence of the Citizens are continually dirty and full of filth The three parts of the City namely the Ville the Iland and the Vniuersity being ioined together are of a round forme which of all others is most capable saue that the halfe circle of the Ville is greater then the other halfe circle which is compassed as it were with the two hornes of

England We are pleased that all such haue the benefit of the exchange in such manner as for those of our Army is aboue limmited for such yeerely summes of money as Our Deputy and Counsell there for the time being shall thinke good to allow to any of them vpon their demands And the Warrant of our said Deputie and Counsell shall bee sufficient Warrant to the Master of our exchange or his Deputies for the receiuing of all such Billes as they shall require him to admit for any such Nobleman or Gentleman And now hauing explained some part of the abuses offered to Vs in the exchange and declared Our pleasure for the reformation of them We doe not doubt but that as vpon the former restrictions by Vs proposed to the same end so now many ill minded persons wil not stick to flander Our doings as though there were not in Vs an honourable meaning to performe what here We haue promised whereof although Our proceedings shall by their true and iust effect manifest the contrary yet because euill tongues accustomed to calumniate the actions of Princes are sometimes the instruments of alteration of peoples mindes from their dutifull opinions of their Soueraignes where there is to vs nothing so deare as the conseruation of the loue of our subiects Wee doe for preuenting of any such malitious purposes require all Magistrates and Officers who haue any charge in the Gouernement of that Our Kingdome to haue an care to such euill rumours and to the spreaders of them and such as they shall find to be authors or instruments of diuulging any slaunderous speeches touching this matter of the exchange to make them an example for others to bee admonished by And to assure all men that this institution of base money in this Kingdome hath had his chiefest ground vpon hope Wee had thereby to weaken the Rebels of this Kingdome who by the vse of sterling money had and haue meanes to prouide themselues from forraigne parts of all things necessarie to maintaine their euill courses And that the same being by this way partly and partly by power of Our Army once suppressed We shall haue iust cause to restore the monies of this Realme to such estate as our Progenitors haue accustomed to vse here Giuen vnder our Signet at our Pallace of Westminster the foure and twentieth day of December 1602 being of our Raigne the fiue and fortieth yeere The clauses of former Proclamations touching the Exchange meete now to be continued The vse of sterling Monies or of any other then these new monies prohibited vppon penalties of imprisonment and fine All Officers hauing power giuen them to seaze the said monies put in vse and euery Informer allowed the moyety of so much as he shall discouer To allow for all sterling monies of siluer brought into the Exchange with purpose to receiue new Monies for the same gaine of two shillings in the pound of new monies for gold two shillings six pence gaine of new monies To allow ten in the hundred profit for all base siluer monies brought into the Exchange Counterfetters to be seuerely looked to punished All passengers comming into Ireland to be searched or put to their oath what sterling mony they carry with them The same day his Lordship and the Counsell here receiued this following letter from the Lords in England AFter our very hearty commendations to your Lordships we haue receiued your letter of the seuenth of this instant together with a seuerall note or abstract of some materiall points and doubts to be considered and resolued concerning the last prescribed forme of the Exchange And as both your letters and abstract were addressed together for answere of her Maiesties letter lately sent vnto you with a forme of a Proclamation thereunto annexed so now you shall againe receiue the resolution of her Maiesty and vs of her Counsell touching the same matter onely and the doubts by you propounded which according to your desire we send with as much speed as a businesse of that importance reduced to a new deliberation could be dispatched For the liberty that her Maiesty did giue you either of proceeding or of respite and suspence to publish the Proclamation according to the iudgement you shall make of it vpon consideration of any very dangerous effects that you shall find apparant or likely to ensue you haue rightly acknowledged her Maiesties gracious respect vnto you in whom as the chiefest Ministers of that State shee reposeth speciall confidence both for your care and wisdome and for the opportunity you haue by the present contemplation of all things neere at hand and vnder your eye to discerne and discouer any inconueniencies and to apply the medicines accordingly And therefore although it pleased her to take that resolution together with vs of her Counsell which was set downe by the said Proclamation hoping that it would be a meanes to cure and preuent the intollerable frauds and enormities in the practice of the exchange which was intended and instituted for the ease of her excessiue charge and for the good of her subiects there yet for as much as you haue shewed so great a distrust and feare of dangerous consequence if you should forthwith haue proceeded to the publishing of that Proclamation and vpon aduised consultation as her Maiesty assureth her selfe haue propounded these points of doubtfulnesse that accompanied your letter shee is well pleased to giue such credit to your opinion as that shee hath vpon a new deliberation with vs of her Counsell caused a temper and moderation to be set downe with the chiefe points whereof you doubted as may appeare vnto you by a forme of a Proclamation differing from the former and now sent vnto you wherein because you may readily obserue the particular alterations from the former Proclamation by comparing both together wee need not make rehearsall of them here for satisfaction of your doubts Onely we haue thought good to say somewhat concerning the sixth and seuenth Articles in your abstract in which you make question what course is best to bee holden for the discouery of the fraudes vsed by Merchants and others in their exchanges and what meanes are to be vsed that her Maiesty be not ouer-burthened in the exchange vpon which questions and your owne opinions thereof deliuered wee cannot omit to make two obseruations The one that your selues doe acknowledge the intollerable frauds of Merchants and others vsed in the exchange whereby not onely her Maiesties gracious intention and meaning of the exchange hath beene extraordinarily abused but her Subiects in that Realme by the excessiue rates in the sale of all commodities haue beene vnconscionably ouercharged And therefore your selues cannot denie but that it were very dangerous for the exchange to be vpholden without remedy of these frauds The second that for asmuch as there cannot bee any certaine rule and order prescribed to auoid these frauds that shall be free from the euasion of cunning and deceitfull persons and

not generally vsed neither are there any to bee hired though the waies be most plaine and generally good for Coaches They ride for the most part vpon their owne horses but they are also to bee hired for some twelue pence or eighteene pence the day finding the horses meate which in the stable will cost some twelue pence each night and at grasse little or nothing In euery City there be some knowne houses where an ordinary is kept for diet and beds may be had and the Ordinary is commonly twelue pence each meale By the way in poore Hamlets at this time of peace there bee English houses where is good lodging and diet and where no such are passengers must goe to the houses of Noblemen Gentlemen and Husbandmen English and Irish-English where they cannot want intertainement in some good measure these inhabitants much louing hospitalitie but all other houses are full of filth and barbarousnesse But there are not any Innes in the very Cities which hang out Bushes or any Signes only some Citizens are knowne who will giue stable and meate for horses and keepe a table where passengers cate at an ordinarie and some Citizens haue cellers wherein they draw wine if not al the yeere yet as long as their wine lasts but they haue no Tauerns with Iuy bushes or signes hung cut saue onely some few at Dublin In Scotland a horse may be hired for two shillings the first day and eight pence the day vntill he be brought home and the horse letters vse to send a footeman to bring backe the horse They haue no such Innes as bee in England but in all places some houses are knowne where passengers may haue meate and lodging but they haue no bushes or signes hung out and for the horses they are commonly set vp in Stables in some out-lane not in the same house were the passenger lyes And if any man bee acquainted with a Townes-man hee will goe freely to his house for most of them will entertaine a stranger for his money A horseman shall pay for Oates and Straw for hay is rare in those parts some eight pence day and night and he shall pay no lesse in Summer for grasse wherof they haue no great store Himself at a cōmon table shall pay about sixe pence for his supper or dinner and shal haue his bed freesand if he will eate alone in his chamber he may haue meate at a reasonable rate Some twenty or thirty yeeres agoe the first vse of Coaches came into Scotland yet were they rare euen at Edenborough At this day since the Kingdomes of England and Scotland were vnited many Scots by the Kings fauour haue been promoted both in dignitie and estate and the vse of Coaches became more frequent yet nothing so common as in England But the vse of Horse-litters hath been very ancient in Scotland as in England for sickly men and women of qualitie CHAP. II. Of the Sepulchers Monuments and Buildings in generall for I haue spoken particularly of them in the first Part writing of my daily iournies AMong all the Sepulchers that I haue seene in Europe or in Turkey that in Westminster erected to Henrie the seuenth King of England of Copper mettall adorned with vulgar precious stones is the fairest especially considering the stately Chappell built ouer it The next to that in my opinion is the Sepulcher at Winsore made of the same mettall curiously carued at the charge of Cardinall Wolfye had he not left it vnperfected so as none hath yet been buried vnder it The next place I would giue to the Sepulchers of the Turkish Ottomans whereof the fairest is the monument with the Mosche or Chappell built ouer it for Sultan Soloman at Constantinople The other monuments of the Sultans are built more low with a little round Mosche ouer them all of the best Marble the top being a round Globe of brasse or leade and for the better shew they are commonly set vpon hilles The insides are round and lightsome with windowes and in the very middest lyes the Sultan with his sonnes round about him which according to their custome are strangled by the command of their eldest brother assone as the father is dead and his Sultana is laid by his side when she dies These are all laid in chests of Cypresse lifted vp from the ground with their Tulbents ouer their heads which liuing they woare vpon their heads with some Iewels at the crowne And these chests are compassed with a grate of iron without which is a round Gallerie or walking place spread with Tapestry vpon which the Zantones or Priests that keepe the Sepulcher continually sit as if the Sultans would not be left alone without attendance when they were dead I speake not of the Turkes common Sepulchers which haue no beauty being in common fieldes with three stones erected at the head the breast and the feete Neither did I see any other stately monuments erected to the Turkish Visiers and Bashaes In the next place is the monument of the Saxon Elector Mauritius at Friburg in Germany being of black Marble three degrees high with faire statuaes and the monuments of English Noblemen in Westminster and Saint Pauls Church at London of greater magnificence and number then I haue seene any otherwhere In the next place are the Sepulchers of the French Kings at Saint Dennys neere Paris and of the Palatine at Heydelberg in Germany I speake not of the Prince of Orange his Sepulcher at Delph in Holland which is a poore monument farre vnfit for so worthy a Prince who deserued so wel of the Low-Country men But they haue few or no stately monuments nor almost any ordinary Sepulchers erected to the dead Of the same degree with the French Kings Sepulchers or rather to be preferred before the most of them are the Sepulchers of Italy but they are of another kind Some of them at Rome and that of the King of Aragon at Naples and some few other are stately and beautifull The rest are crected little from the ground and sometimes Pyramidall but the Altars built ouer them are adorned with rare pictures Porphery Marble and Lydian siones and vpon these Altars they sing Masses and prayers the dead lying vnder them As I said that all the Turkes excepting the Sultans or Emperours are buried in the open fields so I haue seene in Germany some fields without the Cities compassed with faire square walles of stone wherein Citizens were buried Of these the fairest is at Leipzig the walles whereof are built with arched Cloysters vnder which the chiefe Cittizens are buried by families the common sort onely lying in the open part of the field and at one corner of the wall there is a Tarras couered aboue but open on the two sides towards the field and paued on the ground wherein stands a Pulpet This place is called Gotts aker that is that Aker or field of God The like burying place I haue seene at Geneua without

faire Cities Vrbinum subiect to the Duke thereof which some make part of Ptcanum Rimini Bologna subiect to the Pope and ancient Rauenna which with the greatest part of this Prouince is subiect to the Pope who erected Vrbine from a County to a Dukedome with couenant of vassalage which the Popes seldome omit yet some part of the Prouince is subiect to the Venetians 11 Lombardy of old was part of Gallia Cisalpina which the Riuer Padus vulgarly Po and of old called Eridanus diuides into Cispadan on this side the Po and Transpadan beyond the Po. Cispadan of old called Emilia now vulgarly di qua del ' Po containes Pigmont so called as seated at the foote of the Mountaines whereof the chiefe Citie is Turin of old called Augusta Taurinorum and this Prouince is subiect to the Duke of Sauoy Also it containes the Territory of Parma subiect to the Duke thereof wherin are the cities Parma Piacenza Transpadane vulgarly di la del ' Po containes the Dukedome of Milan the chiefe City whereof is Milano and it hath other Cities namely Como where both Plimes were borne seated on the most pleasant Lake 〈◊〉 vulgarly di Como abounding with excellent fishes Also Tic. num vulgarly 〈◊〉 where the French King Francis the first was taken prisoner by the Army of Charles the fifth Lastly Cremona among other things famous for the Tower This Dukedome is the largest and richest of all other as Flaunders is among the Counties and it is subiect to the King of Spaine 12 Also Transpadane Lombardy containes the Dukedome of Mantua subiect to the Duke thereof and Marca Treuisana or Triuigiana subiect to the State of Venice Mantua is the chiefe City of the Dukedome and Marca Treuisana hath the famous Cities Venice Padoa 〈◊〉 Verona Vicenza Brescia and Bergamo The 〈◊〉 of old inhabited all Cisalpina Gailia who gaue the name to the Iyrrhene Sea and were expelled by the Galles and of them the Insubres inhabited the Transpadan part and there built Milano and the Senones inhabited the Cispadane part 13 Histria is deuided into Forum Iulij and Histria properly so called Vorum Iulij vnlgarly Frieli and Patria because the Venetians acknowledge they came from thence was a Dukedome erected by the Lombards the chiefe City whereof is the most ancient Aguilegia adorned with the title of a Patriarchate which at this day is almost fallen to the ground Neere that City is a Towne in which they write that S. Marke penned his Gospell Now the chiefe City is Frioli The confines of this Region lie vpon Marca Trenisana and all the Prouince to the Riuer 〈◊〉 is subiect to the State of Venice The other part is subiect to the Arch-Dukes 〈◊〉 Austria Here growes the wine Pucinum now called Prosecho much celebrated by 〈◊〉 14 Histria properly so called is almost in the forme of a Peninsule almost an Iland and the chiefe City is Iustinopolis vnlgarly Capo d'Istria and all the Prouince is subiect to the State of Venice Italy in Winter time namely the moneths of December January and February hath a temperate cold with little or no frosts or Ice And howsoeuer my selfe did see not onely the Riuers of the State of Venice but the very Inland Seas of Venice frozen and couered with thicke yce for the space of three weekes yet the Venetiaos find it was a rare accident In Summer the heate is excessiue and the dew falling by night is very vnwholsome as also thunderings and lightnings are frequent which doe great hurt both to man and beast then abroad as sad experience often shewes them But in the Dog-daies no man is so hardy as to put his head out of his dores or to goe out of the City For they prouerbially say Quando il Sole alberga in Leone 〈◊〉 sano guadagna assai that is When the Sunne lodgeth in the Signe of the Lion he that preserues his health gaines enough This excesse of heate they carefully auoid by inhabiting vpon the sides of the Mountaines and Hilles towards the Sea which cooleth the windes and by retiring into vaults vnder ground or open Tarrasses lying vpon Riuers and free from the Sunne Yea some haue found the meanes by an artificiall Mill to draw Winde into a vault and from thence to disperie it into any roome of the house All Italy is diuided with the Mount Apennine as a back is with the bone and vpon both sides thereof as well towards the North as South the Hilles and Plaines extend towards the Tirrhene and Adriatike Seaes in so narrow compasses as many times a man may at once see both the Seas from the top of the Mountaine so as the fresh windes blowing from each Sea doe not a little mitigate the heate of the clime For the Sea windes blowing from any quarter whatsoeuer while they gather cold by long gliding on the water must needes refresh where they blow as on the contrary winds sweeping vpon the earth increase the heate Thus in the West part of Sicily when the South East wind blowes and sweepes vpon the plaine parched by the Sun it brings excessiue heate yet the same wind yea the very South wind in his nature most hot when they sweepe vpon the Sea and after beate vpon the Mountaines of Liguria doe bring a pleasant coolenesse with them Touching the fertility of Italy before I speake of it giue me leaue to remember that Ierome Turler writing of Trauell into forraigne parts relates that a Prince of Naples hauing a kinseman to his pupill who desired much to see forraigne Kingdomes he could not deny him so iust a request but onely wished him first to see Rome whether he went and after his returne the Prince tooke an accompt of him what he had seene and finding him sparingly to relate his obseruations in that place he made this answere to his request Cozen you haue seene at Rome faire Meadowes Plaines Mountaines Woods Groues Fountaines Riuers Villages Castles Cities Baths Amphitheaters Play-houses Temples Pillars Statuaes Colosses triumphall Arkes Pyramides Academies Gardens Water-Conduits Men good and ill learned and vnlearned more you cannot see in the vniuersall World then be content and stay at home And so he restrained the young Man in his desire to trauell wherein perhaps he rather sought to get liberty then experience This I write to shew that the Italians are so rauished with the beauty of their owne Countrey as hauing by sharpenesse of wit more then the true value of things magnified and propounded to strangers admiration each Brooke for a Riuer each vice for the neighbour vertue and each poore thing as if it were to be extolled aboue the Moone they haue thereby more wronged themselues then vs. For we passing through Italy though we find our selues deceiued in the fame of things yet still we heare and see many things worthy to be obserued but of the Italians holding Italy for a Paradice very few sharpen their wits with any long voyage and great part

the King shall please to appoint In Hackstow Forrest at the hill Stiperstons are great heapes of stones which the vulgar sort dreame to haue been the diuels bridge Wrockceter of old the chiefe Citie burt by the Romans is now a pretty village and from the decay therof grew the well knowne Citie Shrewesburie now the chiefe Citie fortified by art and nature rich by making wollen cloth and trading with the neighbouring Welchmen where Henry Percy the younger with his forces was ouerthrowne by Henrie the fourth 32 Cheshire is a great County of Gentlemen no other County hauing so many Knights houses Westchester is a faire Citie where the twentieth Legion called victrix lay in Garison in the time of Vespasian the Roman Emperor Most white Salt is made at Nantwich and lesse white made at Middlewich and Norwich It is rich in Pastures and sends great quantitie of cheeses to London I know that Worcester cheeses are most esteemed but there is not such quantitie to transport them I know that Suffolke and the Fennes of Essex yeeld huge cheeses in great number to bee exported but they are not so pleasing to the taste as these I know that in all the Counties some quantity of very good cheeses is made for priuate mens vses but not in proportion to bee exported Whereas Cheshire yeelds great quantity of very good cheeses comparable to those of Holland seruing the greatest part of London therewith and exporting the same into other parts When the heyres males of this County faced Henry the third added this large patrimony to the Crowne so as the Kings eldest sonne should be Earle of Cheshire And Richard the second of a County made it a Principality and himselfe was called Prince of Cheshire but Henry the fourth reduced it againe to a Countie Palatine and at this day it hath Palatine iurisdiction administred by a Chamberlaine a speciall Iudge two Exchequer Barons three Serieants at Law a Sheriffe an Atturney an Escheator c. 33 Herefordshire was of old inhabited by the Silures and it so much abeundeth with all things necessarie for the life of man as it is not content in that respect to haue the second place among all the Counties of England Hereford is the chiefe Citie thereof Lemster iustly boasteth of the Sheepes wooll feeding in those grounds with which no part of Europe can compare excepting Apulia and Tarentum It yeelds excellent Fiax and so good Wheate as the bread of Lemster and drinke of Weabley a neighbour Towne are prouerbially praised before all others 34 Radnoxshire had of old the same inhabitants and is the first County of Wales whereof Radnox is the chiefe Towne 35 Brechnocshire the second County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants and hath the name of the chiefe Towne seated in the middest thereof where Henry the eight instituted a Collegiate Church 36 Monmouthshire had of old the same inhabitants and is so called of the chiefe Towne no way so glorious as in that Henry the fifth Conquerer of France was borne there It hath also another faire Towne called Chepstow 37 Glamorganshire the fourth County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants and the chiefe Citie Caerdiffe hath a commodious Hauen 38 Caermardenshire the fifth County of Wales was of old inhabited by the Dimetae and is fruitefull in Corne abounds in Sheepe and in some places yeelds Pit-coale It hath the name of the chiefe Citie where Merlin was borne begotten by an Incubus Deuill whom the common people tooke for a most famous Prophet 39 Pembrookeshire the sixth County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants Here a long neck of land makes an Hauen called Milford hauen then which Europe hath not a more noble Hauen or more safe or more large with many creekes and safe roades made more famous by the landing of H. the seuenth Pembrook is the chiefe Towne of the County The Flemming hauing their Townes drowned by the Sea had a Territorie of this County giuen them to inhabit by Henry the first before Wales was subdued and they euer remained most faithfull to the Kings of England 40 Kardiganshire the seuenth County of Wales and had of old the same inhabitants and hath the name of the chiefe City 41 Montgomeryshire the eight County of Wales was of old inhabited by the Ordouices and hath the name of the chiefe Towne 42 Mertonethshire the ninth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants where vpon the mountaines great slockes of sheepefeede without any danger of the wolfe for the wolues were destroied through all England when Edgar King of England imposed the yeerely tribute of three hundreth wolues vpon 〈◊〉 Prince of Wales The little and poore towne Bala is the eheefe of this Mountenous people 43 Caernaruonshire the tenth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants and was called Snodenforest before Wales was reduced into Counties so called of the mountaines whose tops are alwaies white with snow deseruing to be named the Alps of Britany and it is certaine that there be lakes and standing waters vpon the tops of those Mountaines The walled City Caernaruon checfe of the County hath a most faire Castle built by Edward the first wherein his sonne Edward the second was borne and named thereof Bangor that is faire Chancell is the seate of a Bishop Aberconway deserues the name of a strong and faire little City rather then of a Towne saue that it is not full of Inhabitants 44 Denbighshire the eleuenth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants and hath the name of the cheefe Towne well inhabited The little Village Momglath had the name of the mines of lead which that pleasant territory yeelds Not far thence is the Towne Wrexham bewtified with a most saire Tower called the Holy Tower and commended for the musicali Organes in the Church 45 The little County Flintshire the twelfth of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants the fields whereof the first yeere after they haue line fallow yeeld more then twenty measures for one in some places of Barly in other places of Wheate and generally of Rie and after for foure or fiue yeeres yeeld Oates Holiwell named of the sacred Fountaine is a little Towne where is the Fountaine of Winefrede a Christian Virgin who being defloured by force there was killed by the Tyrant and this Fountaine is farre and greatly famous for the Mosse there growing of a most pleasant smell A faire Chappell of Free stone is built vpon the very Fountaine and a little streame runnes out of it among stones vpon which a certaine bloody humour growes The Castle Flint gaue the name to the County 46 I will omit Anglesey the thirteenth County of Wales because it is to be described among the Ilands 47 Yorkeshire is the farre largest County of all England and was of old inhabited by the Brigantes In the Forrest called Hatfield Chase are great Heards of red Deare and Harts The Townes of Sheffeld and

and light stuffe The Ianizares weare the said Tulbent but haue also a cap peculiar to their Order vulgarly called Zarcola which they weare going abroad into the City being a standing cap plaine at the top with an hood hanging down behind like that part of our French hoods with a guilded horne of brasse vpright aboue the forehead The Ianizares that are Courtiers weare a Feather hanging downe from the hinder part of the head to the very heeles The Chausses and all degrees vpward to the very Emperour weare the said Tulbent or Cap with a little piece of red veluet appearing at the very crowne vpon which they set Iewels and Feathers whereby these higher orders and degrees in the warre are distinguished Like white Tulbents but altogether plaine are worne by inferiour Turkes that are not Souldiers and they cannot bee more prouoked then by casting any spot vpon their white heads which they weare as an holy badge of their Religion placing the purity of the foule for a great part in the outward purity of the body Tulbent and garments All these Tulbents be of pure white but the Greekes and other Christians aswell subiects as strangers weare Shasses that is striped linnen commonly white and blew wound about the skirts of a little cap. Such a Shasse my selfe did weare costing fifteene Mcidines The Persians weare such Tulbents for the forme but the cloth is of greene colour And the Turkes as I thinke called Seriffi and by others called Hemir namely the Kindred or race of Mahomet who make great shew of hereditary holinesse and are of singular reputation doe not onely weare greene Tulbents but all garments of the same colour yet some of them weare garments of other colours with a greene marke to be knowne from others They say that Mahomet vsed to weare greene garments whereupon in superstition they onely permit this colour to his race and if any chance to weare a shoo-string or garters of that colour by ignorance of this rite they will flie vpon him and beate him with cudgels and if hee still weare them will punish him more seuerely My self ignorant of this rite passed most part of Turkey with my dublet lined with greene taffety but sleeping by nights in my dublet and hiding the silke lest they should thinke me rich by great chance this error of mine was neuer detected till I came to Constantinople where our Ambassadour obseruing it and telling mee the great cruelty they vse towards such as weare any greene thing did much astonish me yet did I still weare the same being safe in the priuiledge of the Ambassadours house till I went into a Venetian ship to sayle into Italy Besides these hypocrites of Mahomets race for that cause so much respected as the witnesse of one of them auailes more then of ten common Turkes they haue other orders of religious men whereof the chiefe and as it were Metropolitan Bishop is called Mophty whom the Emperour highly respects and takes counsell of him when he goes to warre Also the Cady is a chiefe Iudge of Ecclesiasticall causes And all these weare silke gownes of skie coloured blew which colour is esteemed next greene and proper to some such orders And these religious men weare their gownes long to the ground with close sleeues and their tulbents are larger but flatter then other Turkes weare Neither men nor women of the Turkes weare any necke bands or collars but their gownes are cut close to the lowest part of the necke and there made fast so as all the necke is naked And the gownes of men and women little differ saue that the men haue them large the women close at the brest They hate the blacke colour as infernall and much vsed by Christians In general the men weare a long coate to the knee and vpon it a long gowne with gathered sleeues hanging to the calfe of the legge and buttoned at the brest and a third longer gowne hanging behind to the ground with sleeues close to the arme They weare a girdle of silke or linnen twice or thrice about the waste or of fine leather with plates of gold and siluer Their breeches and stockings are of one peece of Kersey like Irish Trouses but larger the stockings hanging loose without any garters They weare their shirts hanging ouer their breeches vnder which they haue linnen breeches which they weare also by night in stead of sheetes And they pull out their shirts by day lest they should be spotted by their priuy parts making it a point of religion to keepe their garments cleane Lastly they weare red and yellow shooes of most thinne leather pointed sharpe at the toes and two fingers high at the heele with peeces of iron vnder the soles or else leather buskins and both these they put off within dores sitting vpon the ground spread with Carpets crossing their naked feete like our Taylors Their vpper gowne and breeches are commonly of English or Venetian cloth and many times of satten or damaske or some light stuffe And their coates are loose and commonly lined with blacke Conie skinnes brought out of England and much esteemed by them as being soft and coole and keeping out the Sunne in a loose garment and also warme in a close garment Thus they weare the finest cloth silkes and stuffes but not one is found so prodigall or ridiculous as to weare any lace and much lesse to cut any stuffe all wearing them plaine and laughing at our contrary fashions They haue no glooues and I remember that my selfe in Syria being poorely attired yet was taken for a great man onely for wearing gloues They weare very large hand-kerchers and wrought all ouer with silke of light colours which they hang by their sides about the girdle They vse linnen cloth or cotton cloth very thinne and fine but of browne colour for thinnesse not vnlike our boulting cloths but most pure and cleane in which they are curious for al things worne about the body The chief pride of the Turks is in hauing the pummels of their Cemeters or short and broad Swords set with Iewels which are many times counterfet and commonly of small value and likewise in hauing good Horses with bridles and saddles rich and set with like Iewels I neuer obserued any Turkes to weare gold Rings or Iewels on their fingers excepting onely some Souldiers in Syria whom I haue seene weare great rings of white bone vpon their thumbs But the great men highly esteeme Christian Iewellers not to weare the Iewels but rather to haue their treasure portable and easie to be hidden The Turkes weare no Swords in the Cities but onely in the Campe or in Iournies For Ianizaries and other Souldiers haue such authority without armes as no man dares resist them so as carrying onely a long and heauy cudgell in their hands one of them will therewith beat multitudes of Turkes like so many dogs yet the Ianizaries in Syria weare at their girdles short and heauy Kniues like daggers The