ceciderunt lumina saevo Thousands of torments when he had endur'd for Christ his sake At length he dyed by dome thus given his head away to take The Tortor proudly did the feat but cleere he went not quite That holy Martyr lost his head this cruell wretch his sight In reproch of this Martyr and for the terrour of Christians as wee finde in an old Agon of his the Citizens of Verulam engraved his Martyrdome in a Marble stone and inserted the same in their walles But afterwards when the bloud of Martyrs had conquered Tyrants cruelty the Christians built a Church as Bede saith of wondrous workmanship in memoriall of him and Verulam carried with it so great an opinion of Religion that there in was holden a Synode or Councell in the yeere of the worlds Redemption 429. when as the Pelagian Heresie by meanes of Agricola sonne to the Bishop Severianus had budded forth a fresh into this Island and polluted the British Churches so as that to averre and maintaine the truth they sent for German Bishop of Auxerre and Lupus Bishop of Troies out of France who by refuting this heresie gained unto themselves a reverend account among the Britans but chiefly German who hath thorowout this Island many Churches dedicated to his memory And nere unto the ruined wals of this rased city there remaineth yet a Chappell bearing S. Germans name still although it be put to a prophane use in which place he openly out of the Pulpit preached Gods word as the ancient records of S. Albans church do testifie Which German as Constantius flourishing in that time writeth in his life commanded the Sepulchre of Saint Albane to bee opened and therein bestowed certaine Reliques of Saints that whom one heaven had received should also in one Sepulchre bee together lodged Thus much I note by the way that yee may observe and consider the fashions of that age Not long after the English Saxons wonne it but Uther the Britan firnamed for his serpentine wisedome Pendragon by a sore siege and a long recovered it After whose death it fell againe into their hands For we may easily gather out of Gildas words that the Saxons in his daies were possessed of this City God saith hee hath lighted unto us the most cleere Lamps of holy Saints the Sepulchres of whose bodies and places of their Martyrdome at this day were they not taken away by the woefull disseverance which the barbarous enemy hath wrought amongst us for our many grievous sinnes might kindle no small heat of divine charity in the mindes of the beholders Saint Albane of Verulam I meane c. When Verulam by these warres was utterly decaied Offa the most mighty King of the Mercians built just over against it about the yeere of our Lord 795. in a place which they called Holmehurst a very goodly and large Monastery in memory of Saint Alban or as wee reade in the very Charter thereof Unto our Lord Iesus Christ and S. Alban Martyr whose Reliques Gods grace hath revealed in hope of present prosperity and future happinesse and forthwith with the Monastery there rose a Towne which of him they call Saint Albans This King Offa and the succeeding Kings of England assigned unto it very faire and large possessions and obtained for it at the hands of the Bishops of Rome as ample priviledges which I will relate out of our Florilegus that yee may see the profuse liberality of Princes toward the Church Thus therefore writeth he Offa the most puissant King gave unto Saint Alban the Protomartyr that Towne of his ancient Demesne which standeth almost twenty miles from Verulam and is named Uneslaw with as much round about as the Kings written Deedes at this day doe witnesse that are to bee seene in the foresaid Monastery which Monastery is priviledged with so great liberty that it alone is quite from paying that Apostolicall custome and rent which is called Rom-scot whereas neither King nor Archbishop Bishop Abbat Prior nor any one in the Kingdome is freed from the payment thereof The Abbat also or monke appointed Archdeacon under him hath pontificall Jurisdiction over the Priests and Lay-men of all the possessions belonging to this Church so as he yeeldeth subjection to no Archbishop Bishop or Legate save only to the Pope of Rome This likewise is to be knowne that Offa the Magnificent King granted out of his Kingdome a set rent or imposition called Rom-scot to Saint Peters Vicar the Bishop of Rome and himselfe obtained of the said Bishop of Rome that the Church of Saint Alban the Protomartyr of the English nation might faithfully collect and being so collected reserve to their proper use the same Rom-scot throughout all the Province of Hertford in which the said Church standeth Whence it is that as the Church it selfe hath from the King all royall priviledges so the Abbot of that place for the time being hath all Pontificall ornaments Pope Hadrian also the fourth who was borne hard by Verulam granted this indulgence unto the Abbats of this Monasterie I speake the very words out of the Priviledge that as Saint Alban is distinctly knowne to be the Protomartyr of the English nation so the Abbat of this Monastery should at all times among other Abbats of England in degree of dignitie be reputed first and principall Neither left the Abbats ought undone that might serve either for use or ornament who filled up with earth a mighty large poole under Verulam which I spake of The name whereof yet remaineth still heere in a certaine street of the towne named Fish-poole-streete Neere unto which streete because certaine ankers were in our remembrance digged up divers have verily thought induced thereunto by a corrupt place in Gildas that the river Tamis sometimes had his course and chanell this way But of this Meere or Fish-poole have heere what an old Historian hath written Abbot Alfrike for a great peece of money purchased a large and deepe pond an evill neighbour and hurtfull to Saint Albans Church which was called Fish-poole appertaining to the Kings And the Kings officers and fishers molested the Abbay and burdened the Monkes thereby Out of which poole he the said Abbot in the end drained and derived the water and made it dry ground If I were disposed upon the report of the common people to reckon up what great store of Romane peeces of coine how many cast images of gold and silver how many vessels what a sort of modules or Chapiters of pillars and how many wonderfull things of antique worke have been digged up my words would not carry credit The thing is so incredible Yet take with you some few particulars thereof upon the credite of an ancient Historiographer Ealred the Abbot in the reigne of King Eadgar having searched for the ancient vaults under ground at Verulam overthrew all About the yeere of Christ 960. and stopped up all the waies with passages under ground which were strongly and
differences semblably they did among us and began first at Edward the First his children But whither am I carried away from my purposed matter as forgetting my selfe in the delight I take of mine owne studie and profession When Cornwall was thus reverted unto the Crowne King Edward the Second who had received from his father faire lands and possessions here bestowed the title of Earle of Cornwall upon Piers Gaveston a Gascon who had ensnared his youth by the allurements of corrupt life But when as hee for corrupting the Prince and for other heinous crimes was by the Nobles intercepted and beheaded there succeeded him Iohn of Eltham a younger sonne of Edward the Second advanced thereto by his brother Edward the Third who dying young and without issue also Edward the Third erected Cornwall into a Dukedome and invested Edward his sonne a Prince most accomplished with martiall prowesse in the yeare of Christ 1336. Duke of Cornwall by a wreath on his head a Ring upon his finger and a silver verge Since which time that I may note so much under warrant of record let the skilfull Lawyers judge thereof the King of Englands eldest sonne is reputed Duke of Cornwall by birth and by vertue of a speciall Act the very first day of his nativitie is presumed and taken to be of full and perfect age so that he may sue that day for his liverie of the said Dukedome and ought by right to obtaine the same as well as if hee had beene full one and twentie yeares old and he hath his Royalties in certaine actions in Stannary matters in wracks at sea customes c. yea and divers ministers or officers assigned unto him for these and such like matters But more plainly and fully instructed are we in these points by Richard Carew of Anthony a Gentleman innobled no lesse in regard of his Parentage and descent than for his vertue and learning who hath published and perfected the description of this countrey more at large and not in a slight and meane manner whom I must needs acknowledge to have given me much light herein There be in this Countie Parishes 161. DEVONIAE Comitatus Vulgo Den Shyre quam olim DANMONII Populi Incoluerunt DENSHIRE THe neerer or hithermore region of the Danmonians that I speake of is now commonly called Denshire by the Cornish-Britaines Deuinan and by the Welsh Britaines Duffneint that is Low valleies for that the people dwell for the most part beneath in vales by the English Saxons Deven 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 whereof grew the Latine name Devonia and by that contraction which the vulgar people useth Denshire and not of the Danes as some smatterers of meane knowledge most stifly maintaine a countrey which as it extendeth it selfe both waies wider than Cornwall so is it harborous on either side with more commodious Havens no lesse inriched with tin mines especially West-ward garnished with pleasanter medowes sightly with greater store of woods and passing well replenished with Townes and buildings But the soile in some places againe is as leane and barren which not withstanding yieldeth fruit to the Husbandman plenteously so that he be skilfull in husbandry and both can take paines and be able withall to defray the cost Neither is there in all England almost any place where the ground requireth greater charges For in most parts thereof it groweth in manner barren if it be not overstrewed and mingled with a certaine sand from the Sea which is of great efficacie to procure fertilitie by quickning as it were and giving life unto the glebe and therefore in places far from the shore it is bought at a deare rate In describing of this region I will first travell over the West-side as the river Tamara runneth along and then the South coast which bordereth on the Ocean From whence by the Easterne bounds where it confineth upon Dorset Sommerset shires I will returne backe unto the Northern which is hemmed in with the Severne Sea Tamar which divideth these two shires first on this part receiveth into it from the East a rivelet called Lid which passeth by Coriton and K. Sidenham small townlets but which have given surnames to ancient and worshipfull families to Lidstow a little mercate Towne and Lidford now a small village but in ancient time a famous Towne which in the yeare 997. was most grievously shaken and dispoiled by the furious rage of the Danes which as it is written in that booke whereby William the First tooke the survey and value of England was not wont to be rated and asceased at any other time nor otherwise than London was That little river Lid here at the bridge gathered into a streight and pent in between rocks runneth downe amaine and holloweth the ground daily more and more so deepe that his water is not seene only a roaring noise is heard to the great wonder of those that passe over Beneath it Tamar receiveth Teave a little river on which Teavistok commonly called Tavistoke flourisheth a town in times past famous for the Abbey there which Ordulph the son of Ordgare Earle of Devonshire admonished by a vision from heaven built about the yeare of our Saviour Christ Dcccclxj. a place as William of Malmesburie describeth it Pleasant in regard of the groves standing so conveniently about it and of the plenteous fishing there for the handsome and uniforme building also of the Church for the sewers from the river passing downe along by the houses of office which runne with such a force of their owne that they carry away with them all the superfluitie they find Saint Rumon is much spoked of and lies as Bishop there There is to be seene also in the same Abbey the Sepulchre of that Ordgar before named and the huge bignesse of his sonnes tomb who was called Ordulph is thought to be a rare thing worth the sight for he was a man of a mighty stature giant like and of exceeding great strength as who was able to burst in sunder the bars of great gates and to stride over the rivelet there ten foote broad if ye list to believe the said William But scarcely had this Abbey stood thirty yeare after it was first founded when the Danes in their spoyling rage burnt it to the ground yet it flourished againe and by a laudable ordinance lectures therein were kept of our ancient language I meane the English Saxon tongue which continued even to our fathers daies for feare lest the said language a thing that now is well neere come to passe should be forgotten Tamar having thus received the Teave draweth now very neere unto his mouth where he and the river Plime together fall into the Ocean of which river the Towne adjoyning to it is called Plimmouth sometime named Sutton and seemeth to have consisted of two parts For we read in the Parliamentary Acts of Sutton Vautort and Sutton Prior because it belonged partly to the family of the
from both sides then setting foote to foote as if they fought man to man they maintained fight a longer time But when the English men had most valiantly received their first violent on set the Norman horsmen with full cariere put forward and gave an hot charge But seeing they also could not breake the battaile they retired for the nonce and yet kept their rankes in good order The Englishmen supposing them to flie presently disranged themselves and in disray preassed hard upon the enemies but they all on a sudden bringing backe their companies charged them a fresh on every side with all their joynt forces thicke united together and so enclosing them round about drove them backe with great slaughter who not withstanding having gotten the higher ground withstood the Normans a long time untill Harold himselfe was shot through with an arrow and fell downe dead for then straightwaies they turned their backes and betooke themselves every man to flight The Duke lofty and haughty with this victory and yet not unmindfull of God the giver thereof errected in memoriall of this battaile an Abbey to the glory of God and S. Martin which he called de Bello or Battaile Abbey in that very place where Harold after many a wound and stab among the thickest of his enemies gave up the ghost that the same might bee as it were an everlasting monument of the Normans victorie and therein he offered his sword and royall robe which he ware the day of his Coronation These the Monkes kept untill their suppression as also a table of the Normans gentry which entred with the Conquerour but so corruptly in later times that they inserted therein the names of such as were their benefactours and whosoever the favour of fortune or vertue had advanced to any eminencie in the subsequent ages About this Abbey there grew afterwards a towne of the same name or that I may use the words of the private History of this Abbey As the Abbey encreased there were built about the compasse of the same one hundred and fifteene houses of which the towne of Battell was made Wherein there is a place called by a French word Sangue lac of the bloud there shed which by nature of the ground seemeth after raine to wax red Whence William Newborough wrote although untruely thus The place in which there was a very great slaughter of the English men fighting for their countrey if peradventure it be wet with any small showre sweateth forth very fresh bloud endeed as if the very evidence thereof did plainely declare that the voyce of so much Christian bloud there shed doth still cry from the earth to the Lord. But to the said Abbey King William the Conquerour granted many and great priviledges And among other to use the very words of the Charter If any thiefe murderer or felon for feare of death fly and come to this Church let him have no harme but be dismissed and sent away free from all punishment Be it lawfull also for the Abbat of the same Church to deliver from the gallowes any thiefe or robber wheresoever if he chance to come by where such execution is in hand Henrie the First likewise that I may rehearse the words of his Charter instituted a mercate to be there kept on the Lords day free from all toll and tallage But Sir Anthony Browne Lord Vicount Mount-acute who not long since in that place built a goodly house obtained of late by authoritie of Parliament that this mercate should bee held upon another day And as for the priviledges of Sanctuary in those more heinous and grievous crimes they are here and every way els by Parliamentary authoritie quite abolished For they perceived well that the feare of punishment being once removed stout boldnesse and a will to commit wickednesse grew still to greater head and that hope of impunity was the greatest motive of ill-doing Neither heere or in that quarter nere adjoyning saw I any thing worth relation but onely Ashburnham that gave the name to a family of as great antiquity as any one in all this tract Hastings which I spake of called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is situate somewhat higher upon the same shore Some there bee that ridiculously derive this name from out of our tongue from haste or quicknesse forsooth because as Matthew Paris writeth William Conquerour at Hasting did set up hastily a fortresse of timber But it may seeme to have taken this new name of Hastings a Danish Pirate who wheresoever hee landed with intent to spoile and raise booties built oftentimes fortresses as we read in Asserius Menevensis of Boemflote castle built by him in Essex as also of others at Appledor and Middleton in Kent The tradition is that the old towne of Hastings is swallowed up of the sea That which standeth now as I observed is couched betweene a high cliffe sea-ward and as high an hill land-ward having two streetes extended in length from North to South and in each of them a parish Church The haven such as it is being fedde but with a poore small rill is at the South end of the Towne and hath had a great Castle upon the hill which over commanded it now there are onely ruines thereof and on the said hill Light houses to direct sailers in the night time Here in the reigne of King Althelstan was a mint-house Afterward it was accounted the first of the Cinque Ports which with the members belonging to it namely Seford Peuensey Hodeney Bulverhith Winchelsey Rhy c. was bound to finde one and twenty ships for warre at sea In what manner and forme if you desire to know both this Port and the rest also were bound to serve the King in his warres at sea for the immunities that they enjoy in most ample manner have heere in those very same words whereby this was in times past recorded in the Kings Exchequer Hastings with his members ought to find at the Kings summons one and twenty ships And in every shippe there must bee one and twenty tall and able men well armed and appointed for the Kings service Yet so as that summons bee made thereof on the Kings behalfe fortie daies before And when the foresaid ships and men therein are come to the place whereunto they were summoned they shall abide there in the Kings service for fifteene daies at their owne proper costs and charges And if the King shall have farther neede of their service after the fifteene daies above said or will have them to stay there any longer those ships with the men therein being whiles they remaine there shal be in the Kings service at the kings costs and charges so long as it shall please the king to wit The Master of every ship shall receive sixe pence by the day the Constable sixe pence a day and every one of the rest three pence by the day Thus Hastings flourished
and the chiefe Magistrate was termed a Consul which name may intimate that it was a Roman towne But when Bishop Herbert surnamed Losenga for that he was composed of Leafing and Flattery the third Prelate that by evill meanes and Simony climbed up to this Dignity had removed his seat from hence to Norwich it fell againe to decay and as it were languished Neither could it sufficiently bee comforted for the absence of the Bishop by the Abbay of Cluniac Monkes which by his meanes was built This Abbay Hugh Bigod built out of the ground For so writeth he in the Instrument of the foundation I Hugh Bigod Steward to King Henry by his graunt and by the advise of Herbert Bishop of Norwich have ordained Monkes of the Order of Cluny in the Church of S. Mary which was the Episcopall seat of Thetford which I gave unto them and afterwards founded another more meete for their use without the Towne Howbeit even then the greatest part of the Citty that stood on the hithermore Banke by little and little fell to the ground the other part although it was much decayed yet one or two Ages agoe flourished with seaven Churches besides three small religious Houses whereof the one was by report erected in the memoriall of the Englishmen and Danes slaine here For hard by as our Historians doe record Edmund that most holy King a litle before his death fought Seaven houres and more with the Danes not without an horrible slaughter and afterwards gave over the battaile on even hand such was the alternative fortune of the Field that it drave both sides past their senses By Waveney the other River of those twaine that bound this Shire and runneth Eastward not farre from the Spring head thereof are seene Buckenham and Keninghall This which may seeme to have the name left unto it of the Iceni is the Seat of that most honourable Family of the Howards whose glory is so great that the envy of Bucchanan cannot empaire it As for the other so named as I take it of Beech trees which the Saxons called Bucken it is a faire and strong Castle built by William de Aubigny the Norman unto whom the Conqueror had given the place and by his heires that were successively Earles of Arundell it descended to the Tatsalls and from them by Caly and the Cliftons unto the family of the Knevets These are of an ancient house and renowned ever since Sir Iohn Knevet was Lord Chancellour of England under King Edward the Third and also honourably allied by great marriages For over and beside these of Buckenham from hence sprang those right worshipfull knights Sir Thomas Knevet Lord Knevet Sir Henry Knevet of Wiltshire and Sir Thomas Knevet of Ashellwell Thorpe and others This Ashellwell Thorpe is a little Towne nere adjoyning which from the Thorpes in times past of Knights degree by the Tilneis and the L. L. Bourchiers of Berners is devolved at length hereditarily unto that Sir Thomas Knevet before named As for that Buckenham aforesaid it is holden by this tenure and condition that the Lords thereof should at the Coronation of the Kings of England be the Kings Butlers that day Like as a thing that may beseeme the noting in Charleton a little neighbour village Raulph de Carleton and some one other held lands by this service namely To present an hundred Herring-Pies or Pasties when Herrings first come in unto their Soveraigne Lord the King wheresoever he be in England But this river neare to his spring runneth by and by under Disce now Dis a prety towne well knowne which King Henry the First gave frankely to Sir Richard Lucy and hee straightwayes passed it over to Walter Fitz-Robert with his Daughter of whose Posterity Robert Fitz-Walter obtained for this place the liberty of keeping Mercat at the hands of King Edward the First From thence although Waveney bee on each side beset with Townes yet there is not one amongst them that may boast of any Antiquity unlesse it bee Harleston a good Mercate and Shelton that standeth farther of both which have given surnames to the ancient Families of the Sheltons and Harlestons but before it commeth to the Sea it coupleth it selfe with the river Yare which the Britans called Guerne the Englishmen Gerne and Iere of Alder trees no doubt so termed in British wherewith it is overshadowed It ariseth out of the mids of this Countrie not farre from Gernston a little Towne that tooke name thereof and hath hard by it Hengham which had Lords descended from Iohn Marescall Nephew by the brother to William Marescall Earle of Penbroch upon whom King John bestowed it with the Lands of Hugh de Gornay a Traitour and also with the daughter and coheire of Hubert de Rhia From this Marescals it passed in revolution of time unto the Lord Morleis and from them by Lovell unto the Parkers now Lords Morley A little from hence is Sculton otherwise called Burdos or Burdelois which was held by this Tenure That the Lord thereof on the Coronation day of the Kings of England should be chiefe Lardiner Joint-neighbour to Sculton is Wood-Rising the faire seate of the Family of Southwels which received the greatest reputation and encrease from Sir Richard Southwell Privie Councellour to King Edward the Sixth and his Brother Sir Robert Master of the Rowles More Eastward is to be seene Wimundham now short Windham famous for the Albineys Earles of Arundell there enterred whose Ancestor and Progenitor William D' Albiney Butler to King Henry the First founded the Priory and gave it to the Abbay of Saint Albans for a Cell which afterward was advanced to an Abbay Upon the Steeple whereof which is of a great height William Ke◠one of the Captaines of the Norfolke Rebels in the yeare of our Lord 1549. was hanged on high Neither would it bee passed over in silence that five miles from hence standeth Attilborrough the seate of the Mortimers an ancient Family who being different from those of Wigmor bare for their Armes A Shield Or Semè de floures de Lyz Sables and founded heere a Collegiat Church where there is little now to bee seene The Inheritance of these Mortimers hath by marriage long since accrued to the Ratcliffs now Earles of Sussex to the Family of Fitz-Ralph and to Sir Ralph Bigot But returne we now to the River The said Yare holdeth not his course farre into the East before he taketh Wentsum a Riveret others call it Wentfar from the South into his streame upon which neere unto the head thereof there is a foure square Rampier at Taiesborrough containing foure and twenty Acres It may seeme to have beene a Campe place of the Romans if it be not that which in an old Chorographicall Table or Map published by Marcus Welserus is called AD TAUM Somewhat higher upon the same River stood VENTA ICENORUM the most flourishing City for a little one in times past of all this
of pompe for a gallant shew Verily of our Nation therâ— be none that apply their mindes so seriously as they doe to husbandry which Columella termeth the neere cozin of Wisedome whether you respect their skill therein or their ability to beare the expences and their willing mind withall to take the paines Henry of Huntingdon before named calleth it a Village in his daies not unlovely and truly writeth that in times past it had been a noble City For to say nothing of Roman peeces of coine oftentimes there ploughed up nor of the distance in the old Itinerary the very signification of the name may probably prove that this was the very same City which Antonine the Emperor termed DUROLIPONTE amisse in stead of DUROSIPONTE For Durosi-ponte pardon me I pray you for changing one letter soundeth in the British tongue A bridge over the water Ose. And that this River is named indifferently and without distinction Vse Ise Ose and Ouse all men confesse But when this name was under the Danes quite abolished it began to be called Gormoncester of Gormon the Dane unto whom after agreement of peace King Aelfred granted these Provinces Hereto this old Verse giveth testimony Gormonis à castri nomine nomen habet Gormonchester at this howre Takes the name of Gormons Towre This is that Gormon of whom John Picus an old Author writeth in this wise King Aelfred conquered and subdued the Danes so that they gave what hostages hee would for assurance either to be packing out of the Land or else to become Christians Which thing also was effected For their King Guthrum whom they call Gormond with thirty of his Nobles and well neere all his people was baptized and adopted by Aelfred as his Sonne and by him named Athelstan Whereupon he remained heere and the Provinces of the East-English and of the Northumbrians were given to him that continuing in his allegiance under the Kings protection he might cherish and also maintain them as his inheritance which he had formerly overrun with spoile and robbery Neither would this be omitted that some also of those ancient Writers have termed this place Gumicester and Gumicastrum avoucheth withall that Machutus a Bishop had heere his Episcopall See And by the name of Gumicester King Henry the Third granted it to his sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Ouse making haste speedily from hence when he was about to enter into Cambridgeshire passeth through most delightsome medowes hard by a proper and faire towne which sometime in the English-Saxon tongue was called Slepe and now S. Ives of Ivo a Persian Bishop who as they write about the yeare of Christ 600. travailed through England preached diligently the Word of God and to this Towne wherein he left this life left also his name From whence notwithstanding shortly after the religious persons translated his body to Ramsey Abbay Turning aside from hence scarce three miles wee saw Somersham a faire dwelling house of late dayes belonging to the Bishops of Ely which Earle Brithnot in the yeare 991. gave to Ely Church and James Stanley the lavish and expencefull Bishop enlarged with new buildings A little above that most wealthy Abbay Ramsey was situate amiddest the Fennes where the Rivers become standing waters when they have once found a soft kinde of Soile The description of this place have here if it please you out of the private History of this Abbay Ramsey that is The Rams Isle on the West side for on other sides fennish grounds through which one cannot passe stretch out farre and wide is severed from the firme ground almost two bow-shots off by certaine uneven and quaggy miry plots Which place being wonâ— in times past to receive gently within the bosome and brinkes thereof Vessels arriving there with milde gales of winde in a shallow River onely now through great labour and cost after the foule and dirty quagmires aforesaid were stopped up with heapes of wood gravell and stones together men may passe into on foote on the same side upon a dry causey and it lieth out in length almost two miles but spreadeth not all out so much in bredth which notwithstanding is beset round about with beautifull rowes of Alder-trees and reed plots that with fresh greene canes and streight bulrushes among make a faire and pleasant shew and before it was inhabited garnished and bedecked all over with many sorts of trees but of wilde Ashâ—s especially in great aboundance But now after longer tract of time part of these groves and woods being cut downe it is become arable ground of a very fat and plentifull mould for fruit rich pleasant for corne planted with gardens wealthy in pastures and in the Spring time the medowes arraied with pleasant flowers smile upon the beholders and the whole Island seemeth embroidered as it were with variety of gay colours Besides that it is compassed all about with Meres full of Eeles and pooles replenished with fish of many sorts and with fowle there bred and nourished Of which Meres one is called after the name of the Island Ramsey Mere farre excelling all the other waters adjoyning in beauty and fertility on that side where the Isle is counted bigger and the wood thicker flowing daintily by the sandy banke thereof yeeldeth a very delectable sight to behold in the very gulfes whereof by casting as well of great wide mashed nets as of other sorts by laying also of hookes baited and other instruments devised by fishers craft are caught oftentimes and drawne certaine Pikes of an huge and wonderfull bignesse which the Inhabitants call Hakeds and albeit the fowlers doe continually haunt the place and catch great store of young water-fowle yet there is abundance alwaies that remaineth untaken Furthermore that History sheweth at large how Ailwin a man of the bloud royall and for the speciall great authority and favour that hee had with the King sirnamed Healf-Koning that is Halfe King being admonished and mooved thereunto by a Fishers dreame built it how Oswald the Bishop furthered and enlarged it how Kings and others endowed it with so faire revenewes that for the maintenance of threescore Monkes it might dispend by the yeare seven thousand pounds of our English money But seeing it is now pulled downe and destroyed some may thinke I have already spoken overmuch thereof Yet hereto I will annexe out of the same Authour the Epitaph of Ailwins Tombe for that it exhibiteth unto us an unusuall and strange title of a Dignity HIC REQUIESCIT AILWINUS INCLITI REGIS EADGARI COGNATUS TOTIUS ANGLIAE ALDERMANNUS ET HUJUS SACRI COENOBII MIRACULOSUS FUNDATOR HERE RESTETH AILWIN COZIN TO THE NOBLE KING EADGAR ALDERMAN OF ALL ENGLAND AND OF THIS HOLY ABBAY THE MIRACULOUS FOUNDER From hence to Peterborough which is about ten miles off King Canutus because travailing that way and finding it very combersome by reason of swelling Brookes and sloughs with great cost and labour made a paved Causey which
of the country beganne to make a new chanell at Clowcrosse in the yeere 1599. Neere unto this banke aforesaid we saw Crowland which also is called Croyland a Towne of good note among the Fenne-people the name whereof soundeth as Ingulph the Abbat of this place interpreteth it as much as A raw and muddy Land A place as they write much haunted in times past with I wot not what sprites and fearefull apparitions before that Guthlake a right holy and devout man led there an Eremits life In whose memoriall Aethelbald King of the Mercians founded to the honour of God at his great charges in the yeere of our Salvation 716. an Abbay very famous both for opinion of the religious life of the Monkes and also for their wealth Concerning which take heere if you please these Verses of Foelix a Monke of good antiquity out of the life of Guthlake Nunc exercet ibi se munificentia Regis Et magnum templum magno molimine condit At cum tam mollis tam lubrica tam malè constans Fundamenta palus non ferret saxea palos Praecipit infigi quercino robore caesos Leucarúmque novem spacio rate fertur arena Inque solum mutatur humus suffultáque tali Cella basi multo stat consummata labore His bounty now the King doth there bestow An Abbay faire with much expense to reare But seeing that the waterish Fenne below Those ground-workes laid with stone uneath could beare So quaving soft and moist the Bases were He caused piles made of good heart of oke Pitch't downe to be with maine commanders stroke Then nine leagues off men sand in Barges brought Which once fast ramm'd by painfull workmans hand Of rotten earth good solid ground was wrought On which for aye such workes might firmely stand And thus by this devise of new plantation The Church stands firme and hath a sure foundation If I should exemplifie unto you out of that Monke the Devils of Crowland with their blabber lips fire-spitting mouthes rough and skaly visages beetle heads terrible teeth sharpe chins hoarse throats blacke skinnes crump-shoulders side and gor-bellies burning loines crooked and hawm'd legges long tailed buttockes and ugly mishapes which heeretofore walked and wandered up and downe in these places and very much troubled holy Guthlake and the Monkes you would laugh full merily and I might bee thought a simple sily-one full worthily Howbeit in regard of the admirable situation of this place so farre different from all others in England and considering the Abbay was so famous I am well content to dwell a while in the description of these particulars Amid most deepe Fennes and standing waters in a muddy and miry ground this Crowland lyeth so shut up and divided round about from all entrance that there is no accesse to it unlesse it bee on the North and East side and that by narrow Cawsies Seated it is for all the world if I may resemble great and small things together like unto Venice Three streets it hath and those severed one from another by water courses betweene planted thicke with willowes and raised upon piles or postes pitched and driven downe deepe into the standing waters having over them a triangle Bridge of admirable workmanship under which for to receive the fall of the waters meeting in one confluence the Inhabitants report there was a pit sunke of a mighty depth Now whereas beyond the Bridge in solum mutatur humus as that Monke said that is The mould is chaunged and is become firme and solid ground there stood in times past that famous Abbay and the same verily taking up but a small plot of ground about which all save where the Towne standeth is so rotten and moorish that a man may thrust a pole downe right thirty foote deepe and round about it every way is nothing but a plot of reeds and next unto the Church a place planted with Alders Howbeit the Towne is well enough peopled with Inhabitants who have their Cattaile a great way from the Towne and when they are to milke them they goe in little punts or boats that will carry but two a peece which they call Skerries yet the most gainfull trade they have is by taking fish and catching of water-foule and that is so great that in the moneth of August they will spread a net and at once draw three thousand Mallards and wilde Duckes and such like together and these pooles or watery plots of theirs they use to terme their Corne fields for they see no Corne growing in five miles any way In regard of this their taking of fish and fowle they paid yeerely in times past to the Abbat as now they doe to the King three hundred pounds of our money The private History of this Abbay I list not to relate seeing it is commonly extant and to be seene out of Ingulph now printed and published yet my minde serves me well briefely to record that which Peter of Bloys Vice-chancellour to King Henry the Second reported at large as touching the new building of this Abbay in the yeere of our Redemption 1112. to the end that by this one president wee may learne by what meanes and helpes so mighty so huge and so faire religious houses were raised and built up in those times Ioffrid the Abbat obtained of the Archbishops and Bishops in England An Indulgence for the third part of penance enjoyned for sinnes committed unto every one that helped forward so holy a worke With this Indulgence he sent out Monkes every way and all about to gather money wherewith when hee was now sufficiently furnished to the end that hee might have an happy beginning of this worke from some happy names of lucky presage hee solemnely appointed the day of Saint Perpetua and of Saint Felicity on which he would lay the first foundation At which day there came flocking in great numbers the Nobles the Prelates and Commons of all the Country thereabout After the celebration of Divine Service and Anthems sung in parts Abbat Ioffrid himselfe layed the first Corner stone Eastward then the Noble men and great persons every one in their degree couched their stones and upon the said stones some laid money others their sealed Deeds of lands Advousons of Churches of Tenths of their Sheepe and of the Tithes of their Churches of certaine measures of wheat and of a certaine number of Workemen as Masons and Quarriers whom they would pay The common sort again and towneships for their parts offered with chearefull devotion some money others one daies labour every moneth untill the worke were finished some the building of whole Pillars others of the bases to the said Pillars and others again to make certaine parts of the wals striving a vie who should doe most This done the Abbat after hee had in a solemne speech commended their devout bounty to so holy a worke granted unto every one of them the fraternity of his Abbay and the participation besides of all
Saint late Bishop carried upon their shoulders to his buriall Howbeit the memory of two Prelates I must needs renew afresh the one is Robert Grosthead a man so well seene both in literature and in the learned tongues in that age as it is incredible and to use the words of one then living A terrible reproover of the Pope an adviser of his Prince and Soveraigne a lover of verity a corrector of Prelates a director of Priests an instructor of the Clergy a maintainer of Schollers a Preacher to the people a diligent searcher into the Scriptures a mallet of the Romanists c. The other is mine owne Praeceptor whom in all duty I must ever love and honour that right reverend Father Thomas Cooper who hath notably well deserved both of all the learned and also of the Church in whose Schoole I both confesse and rejoice that I received education The City it selfe also flourished a long time being ordained by King Edward the Third for the Staple as they tearme it that is the Mart of Wooll Leather Lead c. Which although it hath not been over-laied with any grievous calamities as being once onely set on fire once also besieged in vaine by King Stephen who was there vanquished and taken prisoner forced also and won by King Henry the Third when the rebellious Barons who had procured Lewis of France to chalenge the Crowne of England defended it against him without any great dammage yet incredible it is how much it hath been empaired by little and little conquered as it were with very age and time so that of fifty Churches which it had standing in our Great-grandfathers daies there are now remaining scarce eighteene It is remooved that I may note this also from the Aequator 53. degrees and 12. scruples and from the West point 22. degrees and 52. scruples As that Street-way called Highdike goeth on directly from Stanford to Lincolne so from hence Northward it runneth with an high and streight causey though heere and there it be interrupted forward for ten miles space to a little Village called the Spittle in the Street and beyond By the which as I passed I observed moreover about three miles from Lincolne another High-port-way also called Ould-street to turne out of this High dike Westward carrying a bancke likewise evident to be seene which as I take it went to AGELOCUM the next baiting towne or place of lodging from LINDUM in the time of the Romanes But I will leave these and proceed in the course that I have begun Witham being now past Lincolne runneth downe not far from Wragbye a member of the Barony called Trusbut the title whereof is come by the Barons Roos unto the Mannours now Earles of Rutland Then approcheth it to the ruines of a famous Abbay in times past called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly Bardney where Bede writeth that King Oswald was Entombed with a Banner of gold and purple hanged over his Tombe The writers in the foregoing age thought it not sufficient to celebrate the memory of this most Christian worthy King Oswald unlesse unto his glorious exploits they stitched also ridiculous miracles But that his hand remained heere uncorrupted many hundred yeeres after our Ancestours have beleeved and a Poet of good antiquity hath written in this wise Nullo verme perit nulla putredine tabet Dextra viri nullo constringi frigore nullo Dissolvi fervore potest sed semper eodem Immutata statu persistit mortua vivit The mans right hand by no worme perisht is No rottennesse doth cause it putrifie No binding cold can make it starke ywis Nor melting heat dissolve and mollifie But alwayes in one state persist it will Such as it was though dead it liveth still This Abbay as writeth Peter of Bloys being sometime burnt downe to the ground by the Danes furious outrage and for many revolutions of yeeres altogether forlorne that noble and devout Earle of Lincolne Gilbert de Gaunt reedified and in most thankfull affectionate minde assigned unto it with many other possessions the tithes of all his Manours wheresoever throughout England Then is Witham encreased with Ban a little River which out of the midst of Lindsey runneth downe first by Horne Castle which belonged in times past to Adeliza of Condie and was laid even with the ground in the Raigne of Stephen afterwards became a capitall seat of the Barony of Gerard de Rodes and pertaineth now as I have heard to the Bishop of Carlile From thence by Scrivelby a Manour of the Dimockes who hold it hereditarily devolved upon them from the Marmions by Sir J. Ludlow and that by service to use now the Lawyers words Of Grand Serjeanty viz. That whensoever any King of England is to bee crowned then the Lord of this Manour for the time being or some one in his name if himselfe bee unable shall come well armed for the warre mounted upon a good horse of service in presence of the Soveraigne Lord the King upon his Coronation day and cause Proclamation to bee made that if any man will avouch that the said Soveraigne Lord the King hath not right to his Kingdome and Crowne he will be prest and ready to defend the right of the King of his Kingdome of his Crowne and dignity with his body against him and all others whatsoever Somewhat lower The Ban at Tatteshall a little Towne standing in a Marish Country but very commodiously well knowne by reason of the Castle built for the most part of bricke and the Barons thereof runneth into Witham They write that Eudo and Pinso two Noblemen of Normandy loving one another entirely as sworne brethren by the liberall gift of King William the Conquerour received many Lordships and faire lands in this tract which they parted so as that Tatteshall fell to Eudo which he held by Barony from whose posterity it came by Dryby and the Bernacks unto Sir Raulph Cromwell whose sonne bearing the same name and being under King Henry the Sixth Lord Treasurer of England departed out of this world without issue but unto Pinso fell Eresby which is not farre off From whose progeny the inheritance descended by the Becks unto the Willoughbeies unto whom there came also an encrease both of honour and also of faire Livelods by their wives not onely from the Uffords Earles of Suffolke but also from the Lords of Welles who brought with them very faire possessions and lands of the family de Engain Lords of ancient Nobility and from the first comming in of the Normans of great power in these parts Among these Willoughbeis one excelled all the rest in the Raigne of Henry the Fifth named Sir Robert Willoughby who for his martiall prowesse was created Earle of Vandosme in France and from these by the mothers side descended Peregrine Berty Baron Willoughby of Eresby a man for his generous minde and military valour renowned
to take any thing that pertained to the Warren without the licence and good will of Henry himselfe and his Successours Which was counted in that age for a speciall favour and I note it once for all that we may see what Free Warren was But the male issue of this Family in the right line ended in Henry Kigheley of Inskip Howbeit the daughters and heires were wedded to William Cavendish now Baron Cavendish of Hardwick and to Thomas Worseley of Boothes From hence Are passeth beside Kirkstall an Abbay in times past of no small reckoning founded by Henry Lacy in the yeere 1147. and at length visiteth Leedes in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which became a house of the Kings when CAMBODUNUM was by the enemy burnt to the ground now a rich Towne by reason of clothing where Oswy king of Northumberland put to flight Penda the Mercian And as Bede saith this was to the great profit of both Nations for he both delivered his owne people from the hostile spoiling of the miscreants and also converted the Mercians themselves to the grace of Christian Faith The very place wherein they joyned battaile the writers call Winwidfield which name I suppose was given it of the Victory like as a place in Westphalia where Quintilius Varus with his legions was slaine is in the Dutch tongue called Winfield that is The fields of victory as that most learned man and my very good friend Abraham Ortelius hath observed The little Region or Territory about it was in times past by an old name called Elmet which Eadwin king of Northumberland the sonne of AElla after hee had expelled Cereticus a British king conquered in the yeere of Christ 620. Herein is digged limestone every where which is burnt at Brotherton and Knottingley and at certaine set times as it were at Faires a mighty quantity thereof is conveied to Wakefield Sandall and Stanbridge and so is sold unto this Westerne Country which is hilly and somewhat cold for to manure and enrich their Corne fields But let us leave these things to Husbandmen as for my selfe I professe my ignorance therein and will goe forward as I beganne At length Are entertaineth Calder aforesaid with his water as his Guest where neere unto the meeting of both Rivers standeth Castleford a little Village Marianus nameth it Casterford who reporteth that the Citizens of Yorke slew many of king Ethelreds Army there whom in their pursuite they set upon and charged heere and there at advantages what time as hee invaded and overranne this Country for breaking the allegeance they had sworne unto him But in Antonine this place is called by a more ancient name LEGEOLIUM and LAGETIUM Wherein beside expresse and notable tokens of Antiquity a mighty number of Roman peeces of money the common people there tearme them Sarasins head were found at Beanfield a place so called now of Beanes hard by the Church The distance also from DAN and YORKE betweene which he placed it doth most cleerely confirme as much to say nothing of the situation thereof hard by the Romanes High Street and last of all for that Roger Hoveden in plaine tearmes calleth it A City From hence Are being now bigger after it hath received Calder unto it leaveth on the left hand Brotherton a little Towne in which Queene Margaret turning thither out of the way as she road on hunting was delivered of childe and brought forth unto her Husband king Edward the First Thomas de Brotherton so named of the place who was afterward Earle of Norfolke and Mareshall of England And not farre beneath Are after it hath received into it Dan looseth himselfe in Ouse On the right hand where a yellower kinde of marke is found which being cast and spred upon the fields maketh them beare Corne for many yeeres together he passeth by Ponttract commonly called Pontfret situate not farre from the river banke which Towne gat life as it were by the death of old Legeolium In the Saxons time it was called Kirkby but the Normans of a broken Bridge named it in French Pontfract Upon this occasion it is commonly thought that the wooden Bridge over Are hard by was broken when a mighty multitude of people accompanied William Archibishop a great number fell into the River and yet by reason that the Archbishop shed many a teare at this accident and called upon God for helpe there was not one of them that perished Seated it is in a very pleasant place that bringeth forth Liquirice and skirworts in great plenty adorned also with faire buildings and hath to shew a stately Castle as a man shall see situate upon a rocke no lesse goodly to the eye than safe for the defence well fortified with ditches and bulwarkes Hildebert Lacy a Norman unto whom king William the First after that Alricke the Saxon was thrust out had given this Towne with the land about it first built this Castle But Henry Lacy his nephew came into the field at the battaile of Trenchbrey I speake out of the Pleas against King Henry the First wherefore hee was disseised of the Barony of Pontfract and the King gave the Honour to Wido de Lavall who held it untill King Stephens dayes at which time the said Henry made an entry into the Barony and by mediation of the King compounded with Wido for an hundred and fifty pounds This Henry had a sonne named Robert who having no issue left Albreda Lizours his sister by the mothers side and not by the father to bee his heire because hee had none other so neere in bloud unto him whereby shee after Roberts death kept both inheritances in her hand namely of her brother Lacies and her father Lizours And these be the very words of the booke of the Monastery of Stanlow This Albreda was marryed to Richard Fitz Eustach Constable of Chester whose Heires assumed unto them the name of Lacies and flourished under the title of Earles of Lincolne By a daughter of the last of these Lacies this goodly inheritance by a deede of conveyance was devolved in the end to the Earles of Lancaster who enlarged the Castle very much and Queene Elizabeth likewise bestowed great cost in repairing it and beganne to build a faire Chappell This place hath beene infamous for the murder and bloudshed of Princes For Thomas Earle of Lancaster the first of Lancastrian House that in right of his wife possessed it stained and embrewed the same with his owne bloud For King Edward the Second to free himselfe from rebellion and contempt shewed upon him a good example of wholsome severity and beheaded him heere Whom notwithstanding standing the common people enrolled in the Beadroll of Saints Heere also was that Richard the Second King of England whom King Henry the Fourth deposed from his Kingdome with hunger cold and strange kindes of torments most wickedly made away And heere King Richard the
a mercate towne well knowne which river watereth Stokesley a little mercate towne likewise that hath a long time appertained to the Noble family of Eure. Beneath which places Wharton Castle belonging in times past to the Barons Menill and Harlsey to the family of Hotham and afterward to Stragwaies now wrestle with old age and hardly hold up their heads The mouth of Tees aforesaid suspected in times past of sailers is now found to be a sure road and harbour and to give direction for safe accesse and entrance unto it there are erected on both sides thereof within our remembrance high turrets with light Foure miles from this Tees mouth standeth Gisburgh on high now a small towne but whiles it stood in flourishing estate it was right glorious for a very faire and rich Abbay built by Robert de Brus Lord of the place about the yeere of our Salvation 1119 and for the common buriall place of all the gentry and nobility in this tract which also brought forth Walter de Heminford no unlearned Historiographer This verily is a passing good place and may well for pleasantnesse delightsome variety and rare gifts of Nature contend with Puteoli in Italy which in regard of healthy situation it also farre excelleth The aire is mollified and made more mild by the mountaines seated betweene it and what way the sea yeeldeth a cold and winterly disposition the soile fruitfull and plenteous in grasse affordeth delectable floures a great part of the yeere and richly aboundeth with vaines of metall and Alum-earth of sundry colours but especially of ocher and murray likewise of iron out of which they have now begunne to try very good Alum and Coperose Which with learned skill and cunning not many yeeres since Sir Thomas Chalâ—ner Knight a learned searcher into natures workes and unto whose charge our most high and mightie King hath committed his son Prince Henry the lovely joy and delight of Brittaine first discovered by observing that the leaves of trees were of a more weak greene colour here than in other places that the oakes had their rootes spreading broad but very eb within the ground the which had much strength but small store of sappe that the earth standing upon clay and being of divers colours whitish yellowish and blew was never frozen and in a cleere night glittered in the pathes like unto glasse Not farre off Onusbery or Rosebery Topping mounteth up a mighty height and maketh a goodly shew a farre off serving unto sailers for a marke of direction and to the neighbour inhabitants for a prognostication For so often as the head thereof hath his cloudy cap on lightly there followeth raine whereupon they have a Proverbiall Rhime when Rosebery Topping weares a cap Let Cliveland then beware a clap Neere unto the top of it out of an huge rocke there floweth a spring of water medicinable for diseased eies and from hence there is a most goodly and pleasant prospect downe into the vallies below lying a great way about to the hils full of grasse greene meddowes delightsome pastures fruitfull corne fields riverets stored with fish the river Tees mouth full of rodes and harbours the ground plaine and open without danger of inundation and into the sea with ships therein under saile Beneath it standeth Kildale a Castle of the Percies Earles of Northumberland and more Eastward Danby which from Brus also by the Thwengs came unto the Baron Latimers from whose heire descended the Willoughbeies Barons of Brooke But this Danby with other possessions was sold to the Nevills of which family Sir George Nevill was by King Henry the sixth called among the Barons to the Parliaments under the name of Lord Latimer in whose progenie and posterity this dignity hath continued unto our daies There remaineth nothing else heere for me to note but that the Barons Meinill held certaine lands in this shire of the Archbishops of Canterbury and for the same the Coigniers Strangwaies and Darcies descended from them are bound to performe certaine service to the said Archbishops And whereas the King of England by his Prerogative shall have the Wardship these bee the very words of the Praerogative of all their lands who hold of him in chiefe by Knights service of which themselves as tenants shall be seized in their Demesne as of Fae the day whereon they die of whomsoever they held by the like service so that themselves notwithstanding hold of the King any tenement of the ancient demesne of the Crowne unto the full and lawfull age of the heire Yet are excepted these Fees and others of the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of Durrham betweene Tine and Tees c. so that they may have the Wardship of such lands although elsewhere they held of the King Farther within the country among the mountaines of Blaca amore there offereth it selfe besides wandering beakes and violent swift brookes which challenge the vallies every where as their owne to passe through no memorable thing unlesse it be Pickering a good bigge towne belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster situate upon an hill and fortified with an old Castle unto which a number of small villages lying there round about doe appertaine whereupon the country adjoyning is commonly called Pickering Lith The Libertie of Pickering and Forest of Pickering the which King Henry the Third gave unto his younger sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Wherein neere unto the river Darwent standeth Atton that gave name unto the right noble family of the Attons Knights descended from the Lords Vescy the inheritance of which family was by the daughters parted betweene Edward Saint Iohn the Evers and the Coigniers Now from Edward Saint Iohn a great portion thereof came by a daughter to Henrie Bromflet Which Henrie verily was summoned to the High court of Parliament by these expresse termes elsewhere not to be found in Summons Our Will is that both yee and your heires males of your body lawfully issuing be Barons of Vescy Afterwards that title passed away by a daughter to the Cliffords On the otherside foure miles from Pickering neere unto Dow a swift running riveret lieth Kirkby-Morside hard unto the hilles whereof it had that name a Market towne not of the meanest reckoning and the possession sometime of the Estotevilles Behind these Westward Rhidal lieth low a goodly pleasant and plentifull vale adorned with three and twenty Parish-churches through the mids wherof runneth the river Rhie A place as saith William of Newburrough wast desolate and full of horrour before that Walter Espec had granted it to the Monkes of the Cluniak order and founded there an Abbay In this vale is Elmesly seated which if I deceive not my selfe Bede called Vlmetum where that Robert called de Rosse surnamed Fursan built a Castle nere unto which the river Recall hideth it selfe under the ground More beneath hard by the river side standeth Riton an ancient possession of the ancient familie of the Percihaies commonly