it and offered to withdraw secretly where he would but the Duke fearing to incur the King's Displeasure answer'd her He was resolv'd to yield up to His Majesty a Treasure which he was not in a Capacity to contend for She made him a thousand Reproaches for this she call'd him Traytor to his Love ingrateful towards his Mistress And more-over told him That though he was so Happy as that he could dispose of his Heart as he pleased yet she could not do the same and therefore he must continue to visit her or prepare to see her die with Despair The Duke affected with so great a Passion promised to feign a Journey to Andalousia and to remain with her hid in a Closet he effectually parted from the Court and afterwards shut himself up as it was agreed whatever Risque he ran by so imprudent Conduct The King in the mean time was very Amorous and remain'd very well satisfi'd She had during this Don John d' Austria and the Resemblance he had with the Duke de Medina de Las Torres had made it be thought that he was his Son but tho' the King had other Children and particularly the Bishop of Malaga good Fortune decided in his Favour and he has been only acknowledg'd Don John 's Friends say That 't was by reason of the Exchange which had been made of the Son of Calderonna for the Son of Queen Elizabeth and here 's how they set forth this Change which is a Story made on purpose to impose on the World and which I believe has no ground of Truth They pretend the King being desperately in love with this Player she became big with Child at the same time as the Queen and seeing the King's Passion was so greatly towards her that she might expect any thing she so ordered it that she made him promise her That if the Queen had a Son and she likewise he should put hers in his place What will you lose by this Sir said she Will it not be your Son that will still Reign only with this difference that loving me as you say you do you will love him likewise the better She had Wit and the King could deny her nothing he consented and in effect the Business was manag'd with that Address that the Queen being brought to Bed of a Son and Calderonna of another the Exchange was made He that should have Reign'd and who bore the Name of Baltazar died at the Age of fourteen Years The King was told 't was with over-heating himself at Tennis but the truth is this Prince was suffered to keep bad Company which procured him his Misfortunes it is said likewise That Don Pedro d' Arragon his Governour and Chief Gentleman of his Chamber more contributed to this than any other suffering him to bring into his Apartment a Woman he lov'd after this he was taken with a violent Feaver and conceal'd the Occasion The Physicians who were ignorant of it thought to ease him by frequent Bleedings which put an end to what strength he had and by this means they ended his Life The King knowing but too late what had hapn'd banisht Don Pedro for not hindring this Excess or for not having timely discover'd it In the mean time Don John of Austria who was brought up as the Natural Son chang'd not his Condition though this ought to have been had he been indeed the lawful Son yet notwithstanding this his Creatures affirm He so exactly resembles Q. Elizabeth that she needs no other Picture of her Likeness And this Opinion fails not of gaining Belief with the People who run violently after Novelties and who so passionately loved this great Queen that they bewail her still as if she was but now deceas'd It is true that if Don John of Austria would make his Advantage of the favourable Dispositions of the People he has met with several Opportunities of extending his Fortune very far but his only Aim is to serve the King and to keep his Subjects in those Sentiments of Fidelity they ought to have for him To return to Calderonna The King surprised one day the Duke de Medina with her and in the excess of his Rage he ran to him with his Poynard in his Hand he was about to kill him when this Woman placed her self between telling him He might strike her if he would Having the most extream Passion for her he could not but Pardon him contenting himself only with banishing him But understanding she continu'd to love him and write to him he studied only how to get a new Passion when he had one strong enough not to apprehend the Charms of Calderonna he sent word to her to retire into a Monastery as is customary when the King forsakes his Mistress She put it not off writing a Letter to the Duke to bid him Adieu And she receiv'd the Veil of a Religio from the Hand of the Apostolick Nuncio who became since Innocent X. It is very likely the King believ'd Don John was his real Son seeing he loved him so dearly One thing will appear to you very singular which is that a King of Spain having Natural Sons owned by him they never entred Madrid during his Life So Don John was brought up at Ocanna which is some Leagues distant from it The King his Father came oft thither and he made him come even to the Gates of the Town where he went to meet him This Custom comes from that the Grandees of Spain dispute the Rank which these Princes would hold Don John before he went into Catalonia remain'd commonly at Buen Retiro which is a Royal Seat at one of the farthest parts of Madrid a little without the Gate And he shew'd himself so little that he was never seen at any Publick Feast during the Life of the late King but since Times have chang'd and his Fortunes stand on a different bottom Whilst the Queen Maria Ann of Austria Sister to the Emperour and the King's Mother Govern'd Spain and her Son was not yet of Age to hold the Reigns of the State She would have always Don John keep from the Court and more-over found her self so capable of Governing that she had a mind to ease her Son for a long time of the Burden of Ruling She was not troubled to see him ignorant of whatever might give a desire of Reigning but though she brought the greatest Precautions to hinder him from feeling he was under too strict a Tutelage and suffered no Persons to come near him but those she was well assured of yet this hindred not but some of the King 's Faithful Servants hazarded themselves by giving him to understand what he might do for his Liberty He follow'd the Advice was given him and in fine having taken Measures accordingly he stole away one Night and went to Buen Retiro He as soon sent from thence an Order to the Queen his Mother not to stir out of the Palace Don John is of a middle Stature
Torrents and making the Waters pass that we were only affrighted two of our Mules were drowned my Litters and Cloaths were so soakt in Water that to dry them we were forc'd to tarry one whole Day and this was no easie matter for there are no Chimneys in the Inns they heated the Oven and put my Cloaths in it I can assure you I have not gained any thing in this unhappy Inundation I lay down after this or to speak better I bathed my self my Bed being as wet as any thing else My fellow Travellers thought fit to let me rest a little I have employ'd one part of my leisure time in writing to you Adieu dear Cosin it is time to finish I am ever more yours than any Bodies in the World From Aranda de Duero this 9th of March. LETTER VI. THE Exactness I observe in giving you an Account of things which I judge worthy of your Curiosity puts me often times on Enquiries into several Particulars which I shou'd have otherwise omitted had you not perswaded me that you are a great Lover of Novelties and that you love to Travel without going out of your Closet We parted from Aranda in a time of Thaw which as it rendred the Air warmer so it made the ways more troublesome We came a while after to the Mountain de Samozierra which parts the Old Castile from the New and we Traverst it not without difficulty as well for its height as the quantity of Snow with which the Bottoms were fill'd and into which we sometimes fell as from Precipices believing the way even They call this Pass the Puerto which Name methinks shou'd be only giv'n to a part where one Embarks on the Sea or a River but it is thus they call the Passage from one Kingdom to another and you make your way to your Cost for the King's Officers wait for Travellers in the Road and let 'em not go till they have paid what they require In arriving at Buitrago we were as wet as the night of the Inundation at Aranda and tho' I kept my Litter I felt no less the Incommodiousness of the Weather than if I had been on foot or Horsback because the Litters are so ill closed and made in this Country that when the Mules pass through any Water they throw up with their Feet part of the Water into the Litter which there remains So that I was forced in arriving to change my Linnen and Cloaths afterwards Don Fernand the three Knights my Daughter and my Women went with me to the Castle I had been so often told of It appeared to me as regularly built as that of Lerma not so large but every whit as pleasant The Apartments are better contriv'd and the Furniture is richer and very singular as well for its Antiquity as Magnificence This Castle as well as that of Lerma belongs to Don Rodrigo de Silva de Mendosa Duke de Pastrana and de L'infantada His Mother's Name is Donna Katherina de Mendosa Sandoval Heiress of the Dutchy's of Infantada and Lerma It descends from Father to Son of Ruy Gomes de Silva who was made Duke of Pastrana and Prince of Eboly by King Philip the Second This Princess d'Eboly who has been so much talkt of for her Beauty was his Wife and the King was passionately in love with her They shew'd me her Picture she is represented at her whole length sitting under a Tent fastned to some Boughs of Trees she seems as if she were rising for she has only a fine Linnen-cloth on her which lets one part of her Body be seen If she were as handsome as her Picture makes her and if her Features were so regular she must be judged the most charming Woman in the World her Eyes are so lively and full of Spirit that it seems as if she was about speaking to you her Neck Arms Feet and Leggs are naked her Hair falls down on her Breasts and little Cupids which appear every where about her press on one another to serve her some had her Slippers others are ready to strew flowers on her and some hold her looking Glass Others are seen farther off who are sharpning their Arrows whilst others fill their Quivers with them and bend their Bow A Fawn looks on her through Boughs she sees him and shews him to a little Cupid who is leaning on her Knees and weeps as if he were afraid of it at which she seems to smile I remained a great while looking on this Picture with the greatest pleasure but I was made to pass into a Gallery where I saw her again She was painted in a large Piece attending Queen Elizabeth Daughter to Henry the Second King of France whom Philip the Second King of Spain espoused instead of giving her to Don Carlos his Son to whom she had been promised The Queen made her Entrance on Horseback as 't is the Custom and I found the Princess Eboly less shining near her than she appeared to me when alone You may hereby judge of the Charms of this young Queen she had a blue Sattin Gown but as to the rest just as I represented to you the Countess of Lemos The King stood in a Balcony to see her pass by He had a black Suit with a Collar of the Golden Fleece his Hair reddish and gray long visage pale old wrinkled and ugly The Infant Don Carlos accompanied the Queen he was very white a fine head his Hair of a light yellow his Eyes blue and he lookt on the Queen with so moving an Air that it appear'd the Painter knew the secret of his heart and wou'd express it His Habit was white embroidered with precious Stones he was in his Doublet with his Hat botton'd upon one side and covered with white Feathers I saw in the same Gallery another piece which much affected me which was the Prince Don Carlos dying he was sitting in a Chair leaning on his Arm on a Table before him holding a Pen in his Hand as if he would have wrote something there was a Vessel by him wherein appeared a sort of black Liquor which apparently was design'd for Poyson A little further you see the Bath preparing for him where his Veins were to be opened the Painter had perfectly well represented the Confusion of so sad an Occasion and having read his History and being much affected with it methoughts I saw him really dying I was told these Pieces were of inestimable value I was afterwards conducted into a Chamber whose Furniture had belong'd to the Arch-Dutchess Marguerita of Austria Governess of the Low Countries and it is pretended she had workt it her self there is a neatly wrought Bed of Flowers Woods Animals and Feathers of all Colours the hangings are the same and the different Colours therein do make a very agreeable shew And this is what I found most remarkable in the Castle of Buitrago and it growing late we left it It was several days since I had the pleasure
great delight shew themselves there 's not a Night passes without four or five hundred Consorts of Musick in several parts of the Town it 's true they are at a moderate rate and it is sufficient if a Gallant has only his Guittar or his Harp and sometimes both joyn'd with a Voice hoarse enough to awake the most drowsy body and afford 'em the pleasure of a Queen If either they do not understand what is most excellent or cannot obtain it they are content with what they can get I never saw any Virginals or Theorba's here In every Street and at every corner House there 's an Image or Statue of our Lady dress'd after the Fashion of the Country with a Pair of Beads in her Hands and either a great Wax Candle or a Lamp burning before her I have seen three or four in my Kinswoman's Stable with other pieces of Devotion for you must know that every Groom will have his Oratory as well as his Master though perhaps neither one nor t'other often pray there When one Lady goes to visit another if it be in the Night four Pages comes to receive her with great Flamboys of white Wax and in the same manner conduct her out again and while she 's going into her Chair they commonly kneel upon one Knee This is something more splendid than the small Wax Candles enclos'd in Links which are us'd in France Here are Houses on purpose for Women of lewd Lives like the Madelonnettes at Paris They use them very severely and there is not a day passes that they are not whipt several times in a certain time they are releas'd but come out worse than they went in what they suffer'd making them not a bit the better They live almost altogether in a particular part of the Town where vertuous Women never go but if by chance any one does go that way they run and pursue after her as if she was their Enemy and if it happens that they are the strongest she is sure to be cruelly us'd and for the Cavalleros they run the Risque of being torn in pieces as oft as they pass that way that is to say who shall have 'em One takes him by the Arm another by the Legs and a third by the Head and if he grows angry they altogether fall upon him and rob him and even strip him of his Cloaths My Kinswoman has a Page who was ignorant of the Tricks of these wretched Wenches and went innocently through their Quarters but they stript him as naked as common Thieves in a Wood could have done and yet a Man must be content with this Treatment For to whom shall he go for Restitution The Bell of Barcelona hath been but too true in its Prognosticks for Don John was the first of this Month brought down so very low with his sickness that the Physicians despair'd of him and he was advis'd to prepare himself for Death He receiv'd the News with so much Tranquility and Resignation as very much confirm'd the Belief that several Persons had before entertain'd that he had taken some private disgust which made him rather wish to die than live The King came every moment into his Chamber and spent several hours at his Bed-side notwithstanding his earnest Prayers that he would not so expose himself to a Feaver He receiv'd the Blessed Viaticum made his Will and writ a Letter to a Lady whose name I could not learn He commanded Don Antonio Ortis his chief Secretary to carry it with a little Box lockt which I saw it was made of China Wood and light enough to make one think there was in 't nothing but Letters and perhaps some Jewels while he was so dangerously sick a Courrier arriv'd with the News of the King's Marriage with Mademoiselle the Joy of which did not only fill the Palace but all the City shew'd Expressions of it for there were over the whole Town Artificial Fire-works and Illuminations for three Days together The King could not contain himself but run into Don John's Chamber and although he was very drowsy and heavy to sleep and wanted rest yet he awak'd him to tell him that the Queen would quickly be here and intreated him to think of nothing but being well again that he might assist at her reception Ah! Syre answered the Prince to him I shall never have that Satisfaction I should be content to die if I had had the Honour to have seen her once The King fell a weeping and told him That seeing him in that Condition was the only thing that disturb'd his Happiness There was to have been a Bull-Feast but the Prince's sickness has caus'd it to be put off and the King would not have suffer'd any Fire-works in the Palace-Court had not Don John notwithstanding he had a violent pain in his Head begg'd him to permit them In fine the 17th of this Month he dy'd extreamly regretted by some and as little by others This is the fate both of Princes and Favourites as well as of Persons that move in an ordinary Sphere and as his Credit was already declining and the Courtiers now thought of nothing else but the Queen-Mother's Return and the Arrival of the new Queen so it is a mighty strange thing to observe with what indifference the Sickness and Death of Don John was taken they did not so much as talk on him the very next day It seem'd as if he had never been in the World Alas Dear Cousin does not this deserve a little to be reflected on He govern'd all the Kingdoms of the King of Spain his very name struck Terror he caus'd the Queen-Mother to be banisht he drove away Father Nitard and Valenuela who were both Favourites he had for the most part a greater Court than the King And yet four and twenty hours after he was dead I believe I saw in different places fifty Persons of the highest Quality which did not so much as speak one word of this poor Prince notwithstanding divers of them had very great Obligations to him And yet after all he had very great personal Qualifications and Vertues He was of a middle Stature and a well shap'd body his Features were regular his Eyes black and lively he had black Hair a great deal of it and very long He was well bred of a great Wit and Judgment very generous brave and beneficent and had a Capacity for the highest Affairs He was not ignorant of any thing that was suitable to his Birth nor of any of the Arts and Sciences He both spoke and writ very well five several Languages and understood more He was perfectly well read in History he could both make and play upon any Instrument as well as the best Master He understood how to turn several things he could forge Arms and he delighted much in the Mathematicks but being call'd to the management of the Government he was oblig'd to take his Thoughts off all these Exercises The face of things chang'd
Fountains in the midst Several Knights of St. James live in this Town and the Metropolis which is dedicated to this Saint keeps his Body It is extream stately and prodigiously rich It is pretended you hear a kind of Clattering at his Tomb as if Arms were struck one against another and this noise is only heard when the Spaniards are to undergo any great Loss His Figure is represented on the Altar and the Pilgrims thrice kiss it and put their Hats on his Head for this is the chief part of the Ceremony they have also another very singular one they ascend the top of the Church which is covered with great flat Stones In this place stands a Cross of Iron whereon the Pilgrims ever fasten some Rag or Scrap of what they wear They pass under this Cross by so strait a Passage that they are forced to crawl on their Bellies through it and those who are not slender are in danger of being bursten And there have been some so ridiculous and superstitious that having omitted to do this they have expresly return'd back again three or four hundred Leagues for you see here Pilgrims of all Nations Here is a French Chappel of which great Care is taken It is said the Kings of France have been always great Benefactors to it The Church which is under ground is a better than that above there are stately Tombs and Epitaphs of great Antiquity which exercise the Wits of Travellers The Archiepiscopal Palace is a vast Pile and its Antiquity adds to its Beauty instead of diminishing it A Man of my Acquaintance a great Searcher into Etymologies assured me the Town of Compostella was so called because St. James was to suffer Martyrdom in the place where he should see a Star appear at Compestella It is true continued he that some People pretend it to be thus but the Peoples Credulity and Superstition carries 'em further for you are shew'd at Padron near Compostella an hollow Stone and it is pretended this was the little Boat in which St. James arriv'd after he had past so many Seas in it which being of Stone must have without a signal Miracle sunk to the bottom I suppose said I to him you believe this to be most true He smiled and continued his Discourse I cannot but give you the Description of our Militia They are called together every Year in the Month of October and all the Young Men from the Age of Fifteen are oblig'd to march for should it happen that a Father or any other Relation should conceal his Son or Kinsman and those who are Officers should come to know it they would condemn him who has so offended to perpetual Imprisonment There have been some Examples of this but they are rare for the Peasants are so infinitely pleas'd to see themselves Arm'd and treated as Cavalieros de Nobles Saldados del Rey that they would not for any Consideration be wanting to shew themselves on this occasion You shall seldom see in an whole Regiment any Souldier that has more Shirts than that on his Back and the Stuff they wear seems for its Coarseness to be made of Pack-thread their Shooes are made of Cord they wear no Stockins yet every Man has his Peacock or Dunghil-Cock's Feather in his Cap which is tied up behind with a Rag about his Neck in form of a Ruff their Sword oftentimes hangs by their side tied with a bit of Cord and ordinary without a Scabbard the rest of their Arms is seldom in better Order And in this Equipage they march gravely to Tuy where is the General Rendezvouz it being a Frontier place to Portugal There are three which lie thus the above-mention'd Cindud-Rodrigo and Badajor but Tuy is the best guarded because it is over-against Valentia a considerable Town belonging to the King of Portugal and which has been carefully fortifi'd These two Towns are so near that their Cannon will reach each other and if the Portuguises have omitted nothing to put Valentia out of danger of being insulted over the Spaniards pretend Tuy is in as good a Condition to defend it self It stands on an Hill whose lower part is wash'd by the River Minhio it has good Ramparts strong Walls and good store of Artillery It is here I say where these our Champions bid Defiance to the King's Enemies and in a strutting Bravery declare they do not fear ' em Perhaps something of this may happen in time for here are form'd as good Troops as in any other part of Spain However this is a great loss to the Kingdom the whole Youth being thus taken up for the Lands for the most part lye untill'd and on the side of St. James de Compostella you wou'd think you saw a Wilderness on that of the Ocean the Country being better and more peopled yields greater Profit and all things necessary and convenient as Oranges Lemmons and Pomgranates several sorts of Fruits and excellent Fish especially Pilchards more delicate than those which come from Royan to Bordeaux One of the most remarkable things in my mind in this Kingdom is the Town of Doiense one part of which always enjoys the Sweetness of the Spring and the Fruits of Autumn by reason of several Springs of boiling Water which warm the Air by their Exhalations whil'st the other part of this same Town suffers the Rigors of the longest Winters standing as it does at the Foot of a very cold Mountain so that you find in the space of one only Season all those which compose the course of the Year You say nothing replied I to him of the marvellous Fountain call'd Louzano Who have told you of it Madam answer'd he Persons that have seen it added I. You have been then told continu'd he that on the top of the Mountain of Cerbret you find this Fountain at the Source of the River Lours which has Flux and Reflux as the Sea tho' it be at twenty Leagues distance from it that the greater the Heats are the more Water it casts that this Water is sometimes cold as Ice and sometimes as hot as if it boil'd there being no Natural Cause to be giv'n for it You learn me Particulars I was ignorant of said I to him and this is doing me a great Pleasure for I want not for Curiosity in relation to things uncommon I wish replied he 't was not so late I would give you an account of several Rarities in Spain and which perhaps you would gladly learn I leave you for to Night said I to him but I hope before we come to Madrid we shall have an opportunity of discoursing of them He very civilly made me a Promise and the Play being ended we bad one another good night When I would go to rest I was led into a Gallery full of Beds as you see in Hospitals I said this was ridiculous and that needing only four what occasion was there for shewing me forty and to put me into such an open place to starve
a Year That the Vice-Royalty brought in no Revenue being a Place of Honour fit only for great Lords to bear the Expence of it to maintain their Ranks and keep the People under who are Naturally Fierce and Imperious not Affable to Strangers and so little desirous of making Acquaintance that they chuse rather to stay at Home alone all their Life-time than stir out to procure Friendships That here is a severe Inquisition who have a stately Palace and a most Rigid Court of Justice Yet this does not hinder great Troops of Robbers call'd Bandoleros from Ravaging and dispersing themselves over all Spain who give no Quarter to Travellers snatching up sometimes Women of Quality whom they afterwards set at Ransom for their Parents to Redeem but when they are Handsome they keep them And this is the greatest Misfortune can happen to 'em being forc'd to spend their Days with the Worst of Men who keep them in dreadful Caves or carry them along with them on Horse-back being so furiously jealous of 'em that one of their Captains having been lately set upon by Souldiers sent into the Mountains to seize on him being mortally wounded and having his Mistress with him who was of the Marquess de Camaraza a Grandee of Spain's Family When she saw him in this Condition she thought only of making Use of this favourable Opportunity of saving her self which he perceiving dying as he was he catch'd hold of her Hair and struck his Dagger into her Breast being not willing said he that another should possess a Treasure which had been so dear to him And this is what himself acknowledg'd to the Souldiers who found him and saw this sad Spectacle The Beautiful Marchioness here held her peace and I return'd her all due Thanks for the Favour she did me in informing me of these Curiosities and of which perhaps without her I might have been Ignorant all my Life I do not think Madam said she to me you owe me such Thanks I rather fear the having deserved Reproaches for so long and tiresome a Conversation I would not let her leave me to eat elsewhere and I obliged her to lye with me she having no Bed So Civil and Courteous a Proceeding made her much my Friend She assured me of this in such Affectionate Terms that I could not doubt of it for I must tell you the Spanish Women are more Caressing than we and are far more Kind and Tender to those they profess Friendship In fine I could not forbear telling her That if she had all the Kindness for me she made profession she must be so complaisant to inform me What made her seem so melancholly That I had heard her fetch deep Sighs in the Night and appear'd very Restless and Disconsolate That if she could find any Comfort in sharing her Grief with me I offered my Service to her as a most faithful Friend She embraced me with great Affection and told me without delay she would immediately satisfie my Curiosity which she did in these Terms Seeing you are desirous to know me I must without disguising to you any thing acknowledge my Weaknesses to you and by my Sincerity and Open-heartedness deserve a Curiosity as obliging as yours I come not of such a Family as may claim Nobility my Father's Name was Davila he was only a Banker but he was in good Credit and was moderately Wealthy We are of Seville Capital of Andalousia and we have ever dwelt there My Mother knew the World she saw many People of Quality and having no Children but me she took great care of my Education It did not appear ill-bestowed on me for I had the good Fortune to get the good Will of most that saw me We had two Neighbours who came often to our House who were very welcome both to my Father and Mother Their Condition and Age were in no sort alike One was the Marquess de Los Rios a Person Wealthy and Noble he was a Widower and well advanced in years the other was the Son of a great Merchant who traded to the Indies he was Young and Handsome he had Wit and a very graceful Behaviour his Name was Mendez He was not long before he fell passionately in Love with me so that he omitted nothing which might please me and gain my Affections He was in all places where he knew I was to pass he spent whole Nights under my Windows to sing Verses which he had composed and set to my Praise which he had very well accompany'd with his Harp But seeing his Attendancies had not all the Effect he expected and having past some time in this manner without daring to mention his Affection to me he at length resolv'd to make use of the first occasion to acquaint me with it I avoid ed him ever since I had a Conversation with one of my Friends who had more Experience and Knowledge of the World than I I had felt that Mendez's Company gave me Joy and that my Heart had an Emotion for him which it had not for others That when his Affairs or our Visits hindred him from seeing me I grew restless and loving this young Woman above others and being as dear to her she observ'd I was not so free and gay as I was wont and that my Eyes were sometimes attentively fixed on Mendez One Day when she rally'd with me about it I said to her very innocently My dear Henrieta define to me the Sentiments I have for Mendez I know not whether I ought to be afraid of them and whether I ought not to defend my self from them I feel I know not what sort of Trouble and Pleasure arising in my Breast She began to laugh she embraced me and said to me My dear Heart you are in Love Who I in Love reply'd I in amaze You joke with me I neither am nor will be in Love This depends not always on us continued she with a more serious Air our Stars decide this before our Hearts But in earnest what is it so much startles you Mendez is in a Condition equal to yours he deserves well a good comely Man and if his Affairs go on with the same success as they have done hitherto you may live very happily with him And whence should I learn reply'd I interrupting her that he will be happy with me and that he so much as thinks this O take my Word for it answer'd she whatever he has done has its Designs for Men are not wont to pass Nights under Windows and the Days in following a Person for whom they have nothing but Indifferency After some other Discourse of this Nature she left me and I resolv'd maugre the Repugnance I felt in me to give Mendez no opportunity of speaking to me in particular But one Night as I was walking in the Garden he came towards me I was perplext to see my self alone with him and he had the opportunity of observing it on my Countenance and in the manner
a fair and just Pretence he would break ofs with Mendez to whom he had engaged his Word That should this happen he promist him solemnly I should be no Body's but his He receiv'd this Assurance in the same manner as if he had receiv'd his perfect Felicity but he knew well the Dolor I conceiv'd thereat I became Pale my Eyes were covered with Tears and when we were about leaving him he desired me to draw near to him he told me with a languishing Tone fear nothing Mariana I love you too well to displease you you shall have Mendez seeing your Affections are engaged to him I answer'd him I had no particular Inclination for him but being commanded to respect him as a Man who was to be my Husband I could do no otherwise however I intreated him to be well This seem'd to me the least step I could take towards a Person to whom I had so great Obligations He appear'd thereat sufficiently satisfy'd attempting to take my Hand and kiss it Remember said he to me you enjoyn me to live and that my Life being your Work you will be oblig'd to conserve it We return'd at Night and the Impatient Mendez waited for us to make me new Reproaches I took 'em as I was wont as Proofs of his Passion and having justified my self I askt him What News there was of the Fleet Alas said he to me my Father has receiv'd such as drives me to Despair I dare not inform you Have you any thing separate from me said I to him looking tenderly on him Would you have me to be reserv'd to you I am too Happy replied he in that you have such favourable Dispositions and being not able to keep any Secret from you I must plainly tell you That the Galion in which is is our whole Estate is split and lost running against a Rock But I should be less sensible how greatly soever I am Interest did I not look on the Vnhappy Consequences of this Loss Your Presence will restore the Marquess de Los Rios to his Health his Sentiments for you are known in your Family he is Rich and a great Lord I become Miserable and if you forsake me my dear Mariana I shall have no more Hope but in a speedy Death I was pierced with Sorrow at this sad News I took one of his Hands and closing it with mine I said to him My dear Mendez do not think me capable of loving you and yet leaving you by the Effects of your good or bad Fortune if you be able to bear up against it believe me so too I call Heaven to witness continued I provided you love me and be faithful to me that I will never forsake you and let it punish me if ever I prove Inconstant He testified all the Acknowledgements he ought me for such affectionate Assurances and we resolved not to divulge this Accident I withdrew very melancholly and shut my self up in my Closet ruminating on the Consequences of this sad Disaster I was still there when I heard some Body knocking softly at the Shutters of my Window I drew near and saw Mendez by the Light of the Moon What do you here said I to him at this time of the Night Alas answer'd he to me I was trying whether I could speak with you before I departed My Father has again lately received News of the Galion and will have me immediately go where she is run a-ground to endeavour to save something It is a great way thither and I shall be a great while without seeing you Ah dear Mariana during all this time will you be as good as your Word to me May I hope my dear Mistress will be faithful to me What Reason have I given you Mendez said I interrupting him to doubt it Yes continued I I will love you were you the most Vnfortunate Man in the World It would be to abuse your Patience Madam to relate to you whatsoever we said in this doleful Separation and though there appear'd no Danger yet our Hearts had a foreboding of what was afterwards to happen to us The Day began to appear and we must bid Adieu I saw him shed Tears which were accompanied with mine I threw my self on my Bed rowling a thousand sad Thoughts in my Mind and I appear'd the next Morning so out of Order that my Father and Mother were afraid I was falling into some dangerous fit of Sickness Mendez his Father came to make them a Visit to excuse his Son 's parting without taking his Leave of them He added He had a Business which required such haste as would not suffer him a Minute's time at his disposal As to my self Madam I was comfortless being insensible to every thing And if any thing could ease me 't was some hours Conversation with my dear Henrietta with whom I freely vented my Thoughts touching the long Absence of Mendez In the mean time the Marquess de Los Rios was out of Danger and my Father went often to see him I observ'd one day great Alteration on my Mother's Countenance she and my Father having been long shut up with Religioses who came to give 'em a Visit and after a Conference of some time they call'd me without my being able to divine the Cause I entred into their Apartment in such Disorder that I knew not what I did One of these good Fathers Venerable by his Age and Habit spake much to me about the Resignation we owe to the Divine Will on his Providence in every thing which relates to us and the Close of his Discourse was That Mendez was taken by the Algerines that he was a Slave and by his Misfortunes these Pyrates had learnt he was a rich Merchant's Son which had occasion'd the setting him at an extraordinary Ransom That they were at Algiers in the time he arriv'd would have willingly brought him along with 'em but the Money which they had for all was not sufficient for him alone That at their Return they had been at his Father 's to inform him of this vexatious Disaster but found he had absented himself and that the loss of a Galion on which was embarkt all his Effects without being able to save any thing had induced him to avoid his Creditors who sought him every-where to throw him in Prison That things being in this Condition they saw no Remedy to poor Mendez his Misfortunes being in the hands of Meluza the most famous and covetous of all the Corsaries and that if I would follow their Advice and that of my Parents I would think of taking another Party I had so far heard this dreadful News in so ecstatic a Condition that I could only interrupt them by sad Sighs but when he told me I must think of another Party I burst out with Tears and Shrieks as made both my Father and Mother and these Religioses compassionate me I was carried into my Chamber as one nearer death than life and Donna Henrietta was sent for
one of the Masters of the Mint who pays to the King every Voyage he makes six thousand Crowns and he keeps one per Cent. Of all the Silver that goes through his Hands which arises high As to the Silver which belongs to particular Persons that is brought in what Vessels they will choose and it is the Captain that is responsible for it There 's a certain Duty which is Call'd Avarie and it is taken for all Goods Registred and for all the Silver which is brought from the Indies This Duty is so considerable that it suffices to fit out the Galleons and the Flota for their Voyage although the Charge amounts to nine Millions of Crowns but that of the Flota is not so great He that the King chooses to be General of the Galleons advances to him fourscore or a hundred thousand Crowns which is repaid him in the Indies with great Interest Every other Captain does also advance Money to the King proportionable to the bigness of the Vessel they command There goes moreover with the Galleons a Patacha which leaves them in the Gulph Delas Yequas she goes to the Isles of Margueritta to fish for Pearles of which they pay to the King a fifth part that is of all the Pearl they take and afterwards she comes to Cartegena Within these few Years there is discovered Seventy Leagues from Lima some Mines which yield a vast Revenue those of Peru and all the others in the West Indies pay the King the fifth part as well of the Gold as the Silver and Emeraulds There is at Potosi greater plenty of Mines than any where else the Silver they get there is brought to Port D' Ariga and from thence it is sent to Callao It is one of the Ports of Lima whether the Galleons come to fetch it The Kingdom of Peru yields every Year in Gold and Silver to the Value of eleven Millions of Crowns From New Spain is brought five Millions of Crowns besides Marchandizes which are commonly Emeraulds Gold Silver Cochenil Tobacco Wool of Vigogne Campecha Wood and Hydes It was a long while before they would suffer in New Spain any Workmen that wrought in Silk or Wool there are some now and this may do some hurt to the Trade of Stuffs which are sent from Europe they are not allow'd to plant there any Olive Trees or Vines that so the Oyl and Wine which is carried thither may sell the better The King has the Power in the Indies as well as Spain to sell the Bull of the Crusada which is a Licence to eat Flesh every Saturday and to enjoy the Benefit of Indulgences The Indian Idolaters are not subject to the Inquisition in the Indies that it is establish'd only against Hereticks and Jews No Strangers are suffered to go to the Indies but if at any time some happen to go there must be a special Permission obtain'd which is very rarely granted How is it possible for me continued Don Augustine to express to you the Beautifulness of the City of Mexico the Churches the Palaces the Publick Places the Riches the Profusion the Magnificence and the Pleasures a City that is so happily scituated that in all Seasons it enjoys a continual Spring and where the Heats are not at all excessive where they feel not the Severity of Winter the Country is no less charming the Flowers and the Fruits at all times equally loading the Trees There you gather more than one Crop in a Year the Lakes and Ponds are full of Fish the Grounds are well stockt with Cattel the Forests and Woods afford excellent Fowl and wild Beasts the Earth seems to open her Bowels on purpose to give up the Gold she encloses there are Mines or Rocks of precious Stones discover'd and Pearl are there taken Oh! said I let us all go dwell in that Country This Description Charms but as 't is a long Voyage it may be convenient if you please Madam said I to Donna Tereza in smiling to get our Supper before we go I immediately took her by the hand and we came into a Parlour where I had provided the best Musicians which are bad enough and which in my Opinion have nothing to recommend them but their dearness My Cook made us some Ragous afte the French way which Donna Theresa found so excellent that she desir'd I would let her have the Receipt how to do them Don Augustin intreated me also to let him have some of my Larding-Pins of which really one may look all over Spain and not find so much as one We tarry'd very late together for in this Season they set up till four or five a Clock in the Morning because of the heats and that the best time is in the Night There are certain days in the year that every body goes out to take the Air upon the Bridges which cross the River Mansanarez but at present all Coaches are laid up the Gravel and some little Brooks help to make it very cool and pleasant The Horses endure a great deal in these Walks for nothing can be more prejudicial to their Feet than the Flints upon which they continually tread In certain places of this River they make a stand and there remain till two or three a Clock in the Morning there is very often a thousand Coaches Some particular People bring Victuals to eat there and others sing and play upon several Instruments all this is very pleasant in a fine Night There are some Persons which wash or bath themselves but indeed 't is after an ugly manner The Danish Ambassador's Lady did it lately her People go a little before her and dig a great hole in the Gravel which presently fills it self with Water into which the Lady comes and thrusts her self you may imagine how pleasant such a Bath is and yet this is the only way that can be made use of in this River You will not be sorry perhaps to know that in making out ones Nobility here it must be prov'd that one is descended both by Father and Mother from Vijos Christianos that is from Ancient Christians The blemish which they ought to fear is their being allay'd to any Jewish or Moorish Family As the People of Biscay and Navarre were defended from the Invasion of the Barbarians by the height and Ruggedness of their Mountains so they esteem themselves all Cavalleros even to the meanest Water-bearer for in Spain the Children sometimes take their Mothers Name if she 's of a better Family than the Father It is certain that there are few Families entire and whose Name and Nobility has not been carry'd by an only Daughter and mixt with another Family That of Velasco is not of this number for they reckon up ten Connestables of Castilo successively from Father to Son Here 's one thing very singular and that which is not allow'd of in any other Country and that is That Foundlings or Children found by chance are reckon'd Noble and bear the Title of
their Chests and as long as it lasts they live at a great rate for they think it is below 'em to improve their Money Following this Method it would be very hard for the greatest Treasure not to be quickly exhausted but the future disturbs them but little for every one of them hopes either for some Vice-Royalty or some other Post which will effectually repair all their ill Husbandry and restore them to a good Condition And it must be own'd that the King of Spain is capable both to satisfie the Ambition of his Subjects and to reward their Services and indeed many of his Subjects fill up the Places of divers Sovereign Princes which were the most eminent Men of their Age. The difference is very remarkable between those Sovereigns heretofore and the Spaniards at present it is less as to their Birth than as to their Merit for the Families of the great Lords are very Illustrious there 's many of them that are descended from the Kings of Castille Navarre Arragon and Portugal but yet this does not hinder several of them for I make an exception from contradicting the vertue of their Ancestors but then let 's see how these are educated They do not study neither have they any able Masters as soon as they are design'd for the Sword no further care is taken to teach them either Latin or History but one would think they should at least be taught what belongs to their Art such as the Mathematicks to fence and ride the Horse but they do not so much as think of these Matters Here are no Academies nor Masters to teach such things the young Men pass that time which they should employ for their Instruction in a wretched Laziness either in walking about or courting some Lady and yet in spight of all this they are persuaded that there are not any People in the World which deserve publick Admiration more than they do They believe Madrid to be the very Center of all Glory and Happiness of all Arts and Sciences and of all Delights and Pleasures in dying they only wish their Children the enjoyment of Paradise and afterwards that of Madrid by this means you see they exalt this City above Paradise with so much satisfaction do they live in 't And 't is this which hinders them from visiting other Courts and there acquiring that Politeness which they have not amongst themselves and to which they are perfect Strangers And 't is this also which makes them so eager to return home to Madrid let them be where they will whether they be sent by the King or let them be there in what Rank or Station they will let them be never so much honour'd and heap up never so much Wealth yet the love to their Country and the Prepossession for that hath such a power over them as to make them renounce every thing and they had rather choose to lead a mean poor Life so it be not observ'd without any Train Grandeur or Distinction provided it be but at Madrid It is very seldom that a Father lets his Son travel abroad but keeps him at home and suffers him to take up what Customs he pleases you may easily believe that generally these are none of the best for there 's a certain Age when Youth aims at nothing else but to gratifie their Appetite and enjoy Pleasures One entices and draws another and that which ought to be severely reprov'd is authoriz'd by the Example of those on whom they depend Add to this That they make them marry as one may say as soon as they are out of the Cradle At the Age of sixteen or seventeen years they turn into the World a young Man with a Wife that is but a Child and this at once makes him less capable to know his Duty and puts him upon being more debauch'd because he is his own Master under no controul by this means he passes his Life in a Chimney-corner like a Man in his decriped old Age and because this gentle Sluggard is of an Illustrious Family he must be chosen to govern a People that must suffer through his Ignorance but that which is yet worse is That such a Man taking himself for some great and knowing Person acts only by his own head without consulting or advising with any body and so does every thing awkwardly and absurdly The Wife it may be is not better stor'd with Wit and Parts her mighty greatness with which she prides her self is the only thing that can make her be regarded and thus Persons of the highest Capacity must be subject to two Animals which are made their Superiors But on the other hand let us be just and render to Cesar his due It must be own'd that when Heaven hath been so kind to a Spaniard as to give him a good Education and let him travel and see the World he makes a better improvement than any body Nature has been kinder to them than they are to themselves they are born with more Wit than others they have a great quickness of Mind joyn'd with great Solidity they speak and deliver their words with ease they have a great Memory their Style is near and concise and they are quick of Apprehension It is easie to teach them whatever they have a mind to they are perfect Masters in Politicks and when there 's a Necessity for 't they are temperate and laborious Without question several great Qualities may be found amongst them such as Generosity Secresie Friendship Bravery and in a word all those Endowments of Mind which go to make up a perfect good and vertuous Man And here methinks I have a fair opportunity to conclude this Letter and to beget in you an esteem of these People I should not be sorry if I could procure them this Happiness for their Manners do not suit so ill with me as with a great many others who cry out against them and condemn them before they have either examin'd or known them For my part I must needs say that there is here both good and bad as there is in all other parts of the World From Madrid this 27th of June 1679. LETTER XII HEre 's a general rejoycing since the arrival of the Marquess de los Balbaces who brought certain News that the most Christian King had granted Mademoisel to the King of Spain He so impatiently expected these Tydings that there was hardly an hour pass'd that he did not ask if the Courrier was not come and as soon as he knew it he immediately went to hear Te Deum at our Lady d' Atocha's Church As the Ladies do not go thither so they are to content to dress themselves very fine and place themselves in their Windows I chose this and I thought I should have been both choak'd and blinded it was so excessive dusty I saw the King in his Coach of green Oyl-cloth he had but a small attendance for some twenty Halbardiers cloth'd in yellow with trust Breeches
their Vow of Poverty they find out the secret of growing rich and during their Life they are suffer'd to enjoy the Fruit of their Mission The Monasteries here have yet another piece of Craft which commonly succeeds when a Religieus Person or Fryer happens to be the only Son If his Father is rich they beg him to leave his Estate to the Convent where his Son has taken the Habit upon condition that he shall manage and enjoy it whilst he lives but after his Death that the Monastery shall inherit it and put up Prayers and say Masses for the Father and the Son By this means there are profes'd Fryars which have ten thousand Crowns a Year at their disposal This Affluence in a Countrey where Reason has put little power over the Affections does not always make them more holy and if there are any that use it well there are abundance which abuse it It is known that every year there comes from the Indies above five and thirty Millions of Crowns but yet not a quarter part of this ever goes into the King of Spain's Coffers These Treasures spread themselves over all Europe the French English Dutch and the Genoeses draw away the best shares of it Methinks this does not suit with the refin'd Policy of the Spaniards to waste their own Subjects in digging Gold out of the Mines to let other Nations with whom they are often at War reap the Profit but the natural Laziness which hinders them from working and to have at home Manufactures of their of their own obliges them to have recourse to those who can furnish their Countrey with the Merchandizes they want As Strangers dare not venture to go there because it is upon no less penalty than hanging so they contrive to send their effects in the Names of the Spanish Merchants with whom they meet with all the Fidelity imaginable and if the King would he could not hinder Strangers from receiving what is properly theirs for the Spaniards upon this occasion had rather loose their Lives than any wrong should come to another There 's one thing remarkable and that is when the Flota comes to an Anchor at Cadiz there are Men who make publick profession to assist in cheating the King of his Customs upon Silver and other Merchandizes It is as much their Trade and Livelyhood as for a Banker to deal in Money They call them Metadors and as much Knaves as they are towards the King yet one must do them the right to say they are not so to the private men which agree with them for a certain reward securely to lodge their Silver in such a place of the City as they shall desire And this practice is so certain and safe that one never hears of any that have violated their Trust It were easie to punish these men for the Frauds they are guilty of against the King but there would be Inconveniencies to the prejudice of Trade perhaps far greater than the Punishments would bring Advantage so that the Government and Magistrates take no notice of what passes There might also be an easie remedy found out to hinder the King from losing all upon this occasion and that is to abate the Duties a little which indeed are very high and so what is given to these Metadors and somewhat more might be paid to the Cotrataction for naturally the Merchants do not love cheating and are continually afraid of paying at once what they have been saving for half a score Voyages but 't is the humour of the Spaniards To have all or nothing and very often they have nothing As to Madrid it is impossible to find there any greater Robbers and Cheats than the Magistrates and Officers themselves these are the Men that with Impunity appropriate to themselves the Kings Customs and who cheat him after such a rate that 't is no wonder if he so often wants Money but they are not satisfied with cheating their Sovereign they must also abuse and pillage the People and although the Laws of this Nation are not only very just but equitable yet no body seems to be sensible of them Those very Persons into whose Hands they are put and who are set on purpose to execute them are the first that break and corrupt them If you 'll but give Money to an Alcalde or to an Alguazil you may have the most innocent Person in the World arrested or seized and then thrown into some nasty dark hole of a Prison and there perish with hunger without any proceeding or coming to a Tryal and wthout any Order or Degree and when the poor wretch is let out of Prison he must not so much as think of doing himself right against this wicked Officer of Justice This sort of People are generally much favour'd every where but here they are beyond all measure and righteous Judges in this Country are more scarce than in any Country whatever Thieves Murderers Poysoners and the greatest Criminals imaginable remain safe and quiet at Madrid provided they are not rich for if they be they are sure to be disturb'd for the sake of that They do not judge Criminal Matters above twice or thrice a year it is with the greatest difficulty that they bring themselves to cause any Criminal to dye who is say they a man like them their Country-man and the King 's Subject they send most either to the Mines or to the Gallies and when any Wretch is condemned to be hang'd he is carry'd upon an Ass with his Face to the Tail he is cloath'd in black and a Scaffold is erected for him that he may make a Speech to the People who are all upon their Knees and in Tears beating themselves upon their Breasts After he has spent what time he will in his Harangue he is dispatch'd with a great deal of Gravity and as these Examples of Justice are very rare so they make a mighty impression upon the Spectators Notwithstanding the vast Riches and the excessive haughtiness and Presumption of the great Lords yet they obey the least Order of the King with that exactness and Respect which cannot be sufficiently prais'd Upon the first Command they depart they return go to Prison or into Banishment without murmuring It is not possible to find a more perfect Submission and Obedience nor a more sincere Love than that of the Spaniards for their King This Name is Sacred with them and to bring them to whatever one has a mind it is sufficient to say The King Wills it 't is under his Name that the poor People of both the Castilles are so horribly opprest with Taxes the other Kingdoms or Provinces are not so loaded but boast themselves for the most part that they are a free People and pay but what they have a mind to I have already hinted to you dear Cousin that in every thing they exactly follow the Politicks of Charles V. without considering that the difference of times makes a mighty alteration in the