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A68944 The trauels of certaine Englishmen into Africa, Asia, Troy, Bythinia, Thracia, and to the Blacke Sea And into Syria, Cilicia, Pisidia, Mesopotamia, Damascus, Canaan, Galile, Samaria, Iudea, Palestina, Ierusalem, Iericho, and to the Red Sea: and to sundry other places. Begunne in the yeare of iubile 1600. and by some of them finished in this yeere 1608. The others not yet returned. Very profitable to the help of trauellers, and no lesse delightfull to all persons who take pleasure to heare of the manners, gouernement, religion, and customes of forraine and heathen countries. Biddulph, William.; Lavender, Theophilus. 1609 (1609) STC 3051; ESTC S101961 116,132 170

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Grand-signiors Passe shewed for all the passengers in the ship and then their vsuall duties paied they may set saile and away Yet if the master of the ship pay extraordinarily they may more spéedily be dispatched and many giue very liberally when they haue a good winde rather than they will be staied many houres From thence we sailed betwéene Moeotis and Tenedos in the sea called Pontus For although sometime in the Poets euery sea be called Pontus as Ouid in his Booke De Tristibus speaketh Omnia Pontus erant deerant quoque litt●ra Ponto That is All was sea on euery side And no firme land could be espide And againe Nil nisi Pontus aer I see nothing but the aire aboue and the sea beneath Yet in this place there is a proper sea called Pontus and a country also ioining to the same sea called Pontus mentioned Act. 2. 9. which country Pontus containeth these countries C●ppadocia Cholchis Arm●nia with others and especially Cholchis whence lason with the Argonautes by the helpe of Medeas skil did fetch the golden fleece is most conspicuous on Asi● side to them that saile thorow the sea Pontus From thence wee came to Ch●os where we staied a few daies From Chios wée set saile with a very good winde which brought vs amongst the 53. I●es in the Arches called Cy●l●des or Sporades And then by a contrary winde we we●e driuen to Samos which is an I le before Ionia ouer against Ephe●us where we ancored vntill we had a good winde and then sailed by Andros an He one of the Cyclades and had a very good winde vntill wee came to Rhodos commonly called Rhodes which is an I le in the Carpathian sea néere Caria where wée were becalmed It is called the Carpathian sea of Carpathus an I le in the middest betwixt Rhodes and Creet From Rhodes we came to Cyprus a famous and fruitfull Iland in the sea Carpathium betwéene Cilicia and Syria which was once conquered by Richard the First King of England In this Ile Venus was greatly honoured There is still a Citie therein called Paphia built by Paphus who dedicated it to Venus But the chiefest Cities in Cyprus are Famogusta and Nicosia There is great store of cotten-woollgrowing in this Iland and exceeding good wine made héere and the best dimetey with other good commodities From hence a French Gentleman who came in our ship from Constantinople imbarked himselfe for Ioppa with a purpose to goe to Ierusalem Ioppa is not two daies sailing from Cyprus with a good winde and Ioppa is but thirty miles from Ierusalem by land Cyprus was vnder the gouernment of the Signiory of Venice but now it is inhabited by Greekes and gouerned by Turkes But our Ship from Cyprus went to Tripoly in Syria a City on the maine land of Syria néere vnto Mount Lybanus which is a mountaine of thrée daies iourney in length reaching from Tripoly néere to Damascus Whilest our ship staied in the rode at Tripoly I and some others rode vp to Mount Lybanus to sée the Cedartrées there and lodged the first night at the Bishops house of Eden who vsed vs very kindly It is but a little village and called by the Turkes Anchora but most vsually by the Christians there dwelling it is called Eden not the garden of Eden which place is vnknowen vnto this day but because it is a pleasant place resembling in some sort the garden of Eden as the simple inhabitants thereof suppose therefore it is called Eden This Bishop was borne in the same parish but brought vp at Rome his name was Franciscus Amyra by whom I vnderstood that the Pope of Rome many yéeres since sent vnto the Christians inhabiting Mount Lybanus to perswade them to embrace the Romish Religion and yéeld themselues to the Church of Rome making large promises vnto them if they would so doe whereof they deliberated long but in the end yéelded vpon condition they might haue liberty to vse their owne Liturgie and Ceremonies and Lents for they strictly obserue foure Lents in the yéere and other customes Euer since which time the Pope hath and doth maintaine some of their children at Rome These Christians which dwell vpon Mount Lybanus are called Maronites they are very simple and ignorant people yet ciuill kinde and curteous to strangers There are also many Turkes dwelling on the same mountaine and an Emeer or great Lord called Emeer Vseph who gouerneth all the rest both Christians and Turkes being himselfe a Mahometan yet one who holdeth the gouernment of Mount Lybanus in despight of the great Turke and hath done a long time From Eden we rode ten miles further vp the mountaine to sée certaine Cedar trees where we saw 24. tall Cedar trées growing together as bigge as the greatest oakes with diuers rowes of branches one ouer another stretching straight out as though they were kept by Art Although we read of great store of Cedars which haue growen on Mount Lybanus yet now there are very few for we saw none but these 24. neither heard of any other but in one place more At these Cedars many Nostranes met vs and led vs to their villages From these Cedars we returned towards Tripoly another way descending by the side of the Mount towards a village of the Maroniticall Christians called Hatcheeth where as we were descending downe the side of the Mountaine all the men women and children came out of their houses to behold vs And when we were yet farre off riding towards them they gaue a ioifull shout all together iointly to expresse their ioy for our comming And when we came néere their women with chaffingdishes of coales burnt incense in our way and their Casseeses that is their Churchmen with blew shashes about their heads made crosses with their fingers towards vs as their manner is in signe of welcome and blessed vs giuing God thankes that he had brought Christian Frankes that is freemen of such farre countries as they vnderstood we were of to come to visit them So soone as we were dismounted from our horses the chiefe Sheh with all the rest of their ancientest men came and brought vs to the chiefe house of the parish called the Townehouse or Church-house and there spread carpets and table-cloathes on the ground as their manner is and made vs all sit downe and euery one that was able brought flaskets of such good chéere as they had to welcome vs which was many bottles or ingesters of excéeding good wine with oliues sallets egges and such like things as on the sudden they had ready and set them before vs and both by the chéerefulnesse of their countenances gestures of their bodies and presents of such present things as they had expressed their gladnesse for our comming and would also haue prepared hens kids and other good chéere but we would not suffer them This was about 11. or 12. of the clocke They would haue had vs continue
please God to call him and is at this day the greatest traueller of a man of his calling that I know in all England both by sea and land By land he hath trauelled further then Iacob and the same way that Iacob did from Hebron to Padan Aram and hath had as hard lodging in his trauell as Iacob had viz. the ground to his bed a stone for his pillow the skie for his couering and sometimes the aire for his supper By Sea farther then S. Paul then Aeneas or Vlysses haue done and all the whole way that they all haue trauelled and further Wherefore gentle Reader if thou take in good part these his trauels and my paines and labour in collecting them together it may perhaps encourage him to enlarge them and me to procure them and to adde thereunto his conference and disputations with Iewes Iesuits and sundry other nations which I vnderstand hee hath had with them and such arguments as haue beene vsed on both sides letters in sundry languages which haue beene written on both sides from one to another In the meane time I leaue him with his foure fellow trauellers soiourning at the earthly Ierusalem and thee gentle Reader trauelling towards the heauenly Ierusalem where God grant at length we may all ariue IESVS CHRIST being our Pilot and Ienisary to conduct vs thereunto AMEN Thine euer in the Lord THEOPHILVS LAVENDER The Trauels of certaine English-men into Heathen Countries set foorth by their Letters the Contents whereof are heere set downe as followeth * ⁎ * THe first Letter was written from Constantinople the Primate and Metropolitan Citie in all Thracia wherein the Author cert●fi●th his friend of his voyage from England thither and of such famous places and memorable matters as he saw and obserued in the way thither pag. 1. II. The second was seat from the same renowned Citie wherein he describeth Constantinople from the beginning hitherto shewing the first building destruction reedifying and gouernment of the same vnto this present day and what Antiquities are to be seene therein pag. 17. III. The third was written from Aleppo in Syria Comagena wherein the Author most iudiciously and learnedly discourseth of his voyage from Constantinople thither and describeth both generally the whole Country of Syria and particularly the City of Aleppo the chiefest City for trafficke therein and sheweth that Aleppo is inhabited by people of sundry Countries with the Religion Gouernment Manners and Customes of euery Nation there dwelling or soiourning which is of all the rest most pleasant to read for the varietie of matters therein contained pag. 31. IIII. The fourth and last letter was written from Ierusalem wherein he maketh relation of his trauell by Land together with foure other Englishmen from the City of Aleppo in Syria Comagena to Ierusalem by the Sea of Galile or Tyberias and Lake of Genezareth and so thorow the whole Land of Canaan which way was neuer trauelled by any Englishman before neither possibly can be trauelled againe at this day in regard of the turbulent and troublesome estate of those Countries which is like euery day to grow worse rather than better And this iourney may be called Iacobs iourney because all the whole way which they trauelled thither is the way which Iacob trauelled from Bethel or Beershebah to his vncle Labans house at Padan Aram in Mesopotamia pag. 86. And this may serue partly for a Confirmation of M. Henry Tymberley his voyage from Grand Cayro in Egypt formerly called Memphis to Ierusalem performed the selfe same yeere and at the selfe same time for all of them met together at Ierusalem And partly it may serue for a correction of some false things therein contained w●erein being printed without his consent they haue done him wrong as in the Preface to the Reader you may see plainly But chiefly it may serue for a direction to others who are minded heereafter to trauell into those Orientall Countries or East parts of the world either to further them by the good directions heerein contained or to hinder them in regard of the imminent dangers A LETTER SENT from Constantinople to a learned Gentleman in England wherein the Author discourseth of his voiage from England thither and of such famous places and memorable matters as hee saw in the way thither WOrshipfull and my worthy good friend in most kind and curteous manner I salute you wishing vnto you all ioyes internall externall and Eternall Being now by the prouidence of God after long and tedious trauell arriued in safety at Constantinople and calling to mind your continuall kindnesse towards me since our first acquaintance and your earnest request vnto me at my departure out of England which was to acquaint you with such occurrences as in my voyage should offer themselues vnto my viewe I could not without some note of ingratitude which I would not willingly incur refuse to impart vnto you what memorable matters and famous places I haue seene and obserued in my voyage May it please you therefore to vnderstand that after our departure from the coast of England wee saw no land vntill wee came neere vnto the coast of Spaine and then appeared first of all in sight vnto vs a towne in Spaine called Territh or Tenerith which was discerned first by a red sandy path on a mountaine neere vnto it And shortly after wee saw lubraltore on Europe side and Abshi● commonly called Ape hill on Affrica side betwixt which 2. places we entred in at the straights mouth with a swift currant and a good wind commonly called the straights of leubraltore betwixt which place and Porungal wee saw many Whales in the bay or G●lph of Portingal And in three dayes sailing from the straights we arriued at Argier in Barbary where we staied three daies and were kindly intreated both by Ally Bashaw king of Argier and also by Amurath Rayse commonly called Morat Rayse This citie is in forme like vnto a top-saile broad below and narrow aboue It is situated on the side of an hill walled about and a strong Castle neere vnto the water side It was first called Mesgana secondly Iol the royall seate of IVBA the noble king of Mauritania who in the time of the ciuil warre betwixt Caesar and Pompey valiantly defended Pompeyes part By the Moores and Turkes at this day it is called Iezaier but by the Spaniards it is called Algier The people of this place and the Spaniards are bitter enemies and annoy one another oftentimes About 300. leagues from Argier wee saw Teddel a citie in Affrica and cape Bonne which was formerly called Hyppo where S. Augustine was Bishop and Tunis neere whereunto the ancient citie Carthage stood built by Queene Dido whereof some rumes are yet to bee seene Tunis is in Libia and Morocus and Fesse in Numidia About these parts we saw flying fishes as big an Hearing with two great sinnes like vnto wings before and two lesse behind who being chased by Dolphines
a part thereof containing a conuenient portion of the Countrey called Eden bounding vpon the Riuer Euphrates which Riuer is deuided into foure streames and runneth or at leastwise did then flow in manner as it is described Gen. 2. 10. c. And Eden is the name of a Country so called for the pleasantnesse of it For Hadan in Hebrue is in English to delight From hence also the Greekes call pleasure 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And howsoeuer it besomewhat probable that these Chelphalines dwell now in that Country which was called Eden yet Plato and Aristo●le and Lactantius and others doe constantly affirme as they haue receiued of ancient monuments that Mountaines and Riuers and Ilands and Countries haue receiued much alteration in this kinde Sicilia is said to haue beene diuided from Italy Cyprus from Syria England from France by the violence of the Sea whereas before they were ioined as Pelo●onne●us is to the rest of Grecia or as the towne of Rye at an high water séemeth to be to the rest of England So that no certainty can be giuen either by reading or trauelling of the place where Eden was because these Riuers run in other streames forasmuch as Cyrus at the taking of Babylon is affirmed to haue restrained the maine chanell of this very riuer Euphrates vnto an vnwonted course and to haue deuided the riuer Gindes which is next vnto it in greatnesse into 360. streames Besides the Country of Mesopotamia by which these riuers passe being partly dry and sandy and seldome watered with the showers of heauen and on the other part excéeding fruitfull by the nature of the soile is by the industry of the inhabitants so nourished with waters by cutting out chanels and ditches out of the maine streames as the same is amended where it is barren of the same vnfruitfulnesse and corrected againe of his ouerrich increase where it is ouer fertile No maruell therefore if these riuers are not fully agreed vpon by Writers hauing lost perhaps their ancient streames together with their names as Paradise and the whole earth besides hash lost her ancient fruitfulnesse And these Chelphalines are ignorant people and haue no reason to prooue that they now dwell in the place which was called Eden whereinto Adam was put to kéepe it and to dresse it but that the riuer Euphrates and other riuers mentioned Gen. 2. 10. 11. 12. run by their Country Others of them say that they haue receiued it by Tradition from their Elders from time to time But that which God hath concealed I will not search out But notwithstanding all that I haue read heard or séene in my trauels I resolue my selfe that no man liuing can demonstrate the place which God for the sinnes of Adam accursed and euer since the place is vnknowen Of the Greekes THe Greekes are a very superstitious subtle and deceitfull people insomuch that it is growen to a prouerbe amongst the Italians Chi fida in Grego sara intrego That is He that trusteth to a Greeke Shall be int●eaged and still to seeke They hate the Papists and yet in many things agrée with them as in Auricular Confession Transubstantiation and some other opinions But their Liturgie is read in the vulgar Tongue The Greeke in Aleppo are very poore for they are there for the most p●rt but Brokers or Bastages that is Porters and many of their women as light as water maintaining their husbands themselues and their families by prostituting their bodies to others And their owne husbands are often times their Pandars or procurers to bring them Cust●mers But the Greekes that liue at Constantinople are many of them great Merchants and very rich but excéeding proud and sumptuous in apparell euen the basest of them and especially their women who though they be but Coblers wiues or poore Artificers wiues yet they goe in gownes of sattin and taffery yea of cloth of siluer and gold adorned with precious stones and many gemmes and iewels about their necks and hands They care not how they pinch their bellies so that they may haue fine apparell on their backs And at the time of their marriage the women condition with their husbands to finde them decent apparell and con●enient diet and bring them before their Patriarke of Constantinople to confirme it which if it be not performed accordingly if they complaine to their Patriarke they are diuorced presently and shee taketh an other man to her husband better able to maintaine her and he may marry an other woman if he please One onely instance hereof will I giue you in a matter notoriously knowen to all nations soiourning or dwelling in or about Constantinople In Pera or Gallata on the other fide the water there is a most famous or rather infamous Gréeke whore called Charatza Sophia that is Mistresse Sophia the daughter of a poore Gréeke widow who liueth by laundry who being maried v●to a Géeke because he kept her not fine enough she complaned of him to the Patriarke and was diuorced from him and presently thereupon tooke another man who was a Christian in name but no Gréeke but one who was as is reported of him borne in no land in the world but by sea and brought vp in Polonia vntill he were thirtéene or fourtéene néeres of age and then came to Constantinople and serued many masters there at the first in the basest seruices both in the stable and in the kitchin and afterwards in better seruices than he deserued being both vnlearned and irreligious This man had many children by this infamous woman Sophia yet after many yee●es arising to higher fortunes turned her away and married another woman And to dawbe vp the matter somwhat smoothly procured a Greeke Taylor to marry with this Sophia and gaue many hundred Dolers with her to her marriage But this Charatza could not content her selfe long with this Gréeke Taylor but admitted dayly other men into her companie whereupon the poore Taylor ran away with his money and left this light huswife to the mercie of her former louers hauing thrée husbands liuing yet shee her selfe liuing with none of them This is common in euery mans mouth thereabouts and talked of many thousand miles off to the disgrace of his Countrie and slander of Christianitie And both at Constantinople Aleppo and other places of Turkey where there is traffiking and trading of Merchants it is no rare matter for popish Christians of sundry other Countries to Cut Cabine as they call it that is to take any woman of that contrie where they soiourne Turkish women onely excepted for it is death for a Christian to meddle with them and when they haue bought them and enroled them in the Cadies booke to vse them as wiues so long as they soiourne in that countrie and maintaine them gallantly to the consuming of their wealth diminishing of their health and endangering of their owne soules And when they depart out of that Country they shake off these their swéet-hearts leaue them