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A17832 Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.; Britannia. English Camden, William, 1551-1623.; Holland, Philemon, 1552-1637. 1637 (1637) STC 4510.8; ESTC S115671 1,473,166 1,156

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give my voice and accord with Ninnius who writeth That it tooke the name from Glovus the great grandfathers father of King Vortigern but that long before it Antonine had named it Glevum which both the Distance from Corinium and the name also may prove But as the Saxon name Gleavecester came from Glevum so Glevum proportionably from the British Caer Glow which I suppose sprong from the word Glow that in the British tongue signifieth Faire and Goodly so that Caer Glow may bee as much as to say a faire Citie In which signification also the Greekes had their Callipolis Callidromos Callistratia the English men their Brightstow and Shirley and in this very Countie Faireford Faire-ley c. This Citie was built by the Romans and set as it were upon the necke of the Silures to yoake them And there also was a Colonie planted to people it which they called COLONIA GLEVVM For I have seene a fragment of antique stone in the walles of Bath neere unto the North-gate with this Inscription DEC COLONIAE GLEV VIXIT ANN. LXXXVI It lieth stretched out in length over Severne on that side where it is not watered with the river it hath in some places a very strong wall for defence A proper and fine Citie I assure you it is both for number of Churches and for the buildings On the South part there was a lofty Castle of square Ashler stone which now for the most part is nothing but a ruine It was built in King William the first his time and sixteene houses there about as wee read in the booke of Englands Survey were plucked downe for the rearing of this Castle About which Roger the sonne of Miles Constable of Glocester went to law with King Henry the second and his brother Walter lost all the right and interest hee had in this City and Castle as Robert de Mont hath written Ceaulin King of the West Saxons was the first that about the yeare of our redemption 570. by force and armes wrested Glocester out of the Britans hands After this the Mercians won it under whom it flourished in great honour and Osricke King of Northumberland by permission of Etheldred the Mercian founded there a very great and stately Monastery for Nunnes over whom Kineburg Eadburg and Eve Queenes of the Mercians were Prioresses successively one after another Edelfled also that most noble Ladie of the Mercians adorned this City with a Church wherein shee her selfe was buried and not long after when the Danes had spoyled and wasted the whole countrey those sacred Virgins were throwne out and The Danes as Aethelward that ancient authour writeth with many a stroake pitched poore cottages into the citie of Glenvcester At which time when those more ancient Churches were subverted Aldred Archbishop of Yorke and Bishop of Worcester erected another for Monkes which is now the chiefe Church in the Citie and hath a Deane and sixe Prebendaries But the same in these late precedent ages was newly beautified For Iohn Hanley and Thomas Farley two Abbats added unto it the Chappel of the blessed Virgin Mary N. Morwent raised from the very foundation the forefront which is an excellent piece of worke G. Horton an Abbat adjoyned to it the crosse North-part Abbat Trowcester a most daintie and fine Cloister and Abbat Sebrok an exceeding high faire steeple As for the South side it was also repaired with the peoples offerings at the Sepulcher of the unhappy King Edward the second who lieth heere enterred under a monument of Alabaster and not farre from him another Prince as unfortunate as hee Robert Curt-hose the eldest sonne of King William the Conquerour Duke of Normandy within a woodden painted tombe in the midest of the quire who was bereft of the Kingdome of England for that he was borne before his father was King deprived of his two sonnes the one by strange death in the New-forrest the other dispoiled of the Earledome of Flanders his inheritance and slaine he himselfe dispossessed of the Dukedome of Normandie by his brother King Henry the first his eies plucked out and kept close prisoner 26. yeares with all contumelious indignities untill through extreame anguish hee ended his life Above the quire in an arch of this church there is a wall built in forme of a semicircle full of corners with such an artificiall device that if a man speake with never so low a voice at the one part thereof and another lay his eare to the other being a good way distant he may most easily heare every sillable In the reigne of William the Conquerour and before it may seeme that the chiefest trade of the Citizens was to make Iron For as we find in the Survey booke of England the King demanded in manner no other tribute than certaine Icres of Iron and Iron barres for the use of the Kings Navy and some few quarts of hony After the comming in of the Normans it suffered divers calamities by the hands of Edward King Henry the third his sonne whiles England was all on a smoake and cumbustion by the Barons warre it was spoiled and afterward by casualty of fire almost wholy consumed to ashes but now cherished with continuance of long peace it flourisheth againe as fresh as ever it was and by laying unto it two Hundreds it is made a County and called the County of the Citie of Glocester Also within the memory of our fathers King Henry the Eighth augmented the state thereof with an Episcopall See with which dignitie in old time it had beene highly endowed as Geffery of Monmouth avoucheth and I will not derogate ought from the credit of his assertion considering that among the Prelates of Britaine the Bishop Cluviensis is reckoned which name derived from Clevum or Glow doth after a sort confirme and strengthen my coniecture that this is that Glevum whereof Antonine maketh mention Severne having now left Glocester behind it and gathered his waters unto one streame againe windeth it selfe by Elmore a Mansion house of the Gises ancient by their owne lineall descent being in elder times owners of Apsely-Gise neere Brickhill and from the Beauchamps of Holt who acknowledge Huber de Burgo Earle of Kent whom I lately mentioned beneficious to them and testifie the same by their Armories Lower upon the same side Stroud a pretty river slideth into Severne out of Coteswold by Stroud a Mercat towne sometimes better peopled with Clothiers and not farre from Minching-Hampton which anciently had a Nunnery or belonged to Nunnes whom our ancestors named Minchings Now Severn waxing broader and deeper by reason of the alternative flowing and ebbing of the sea riseth and swelleth in manner of a rough and troublous sea indeed and so with many windings and turnings in and out speedeth him unto the Ocean But nothing offereth it selfe unto his sight to count of as hee passeth along but Cam-bridge a little country towne where it receiveth Cam a small
minde that this Ithancester was that OTHONA where a Band of the Fortenses with their Captaine in the declination of the Romane Empire kept their station or Guard under the Comes or Lieutenant of the Saxon-shore against the depredations of the Saxon Rovers For the altering of OTHONA to ITHANA is no hard straining and the situation thereof upon a Creeke into which many Rivers are discharged was for this purpose very fit and commodious and yet heere remaineth a huge ruine of a thicke Wall whereby many Romane Coines have beene found It seemeth not amisse to set downe how King Edward the Confessour graunted by a briefe Charter the keeping of this Hundred to Ranulph Peperking which I will willingly heere annex to the end that wee who sift every pricke and accent of the law may see the upright simplicity and plaine dealing of that age And thus goeth the tenour of it as it was taken forth of the Kings Records in the Exchequer but by often exemplifying and copying it out some words are mollified and made more familiar Iche Edward Koning Have given of my Forrest the keeping Of the Hundred of Chelmer and Dancing To Randolph Peperking and to his kindling With heorte and hinde doe and bocke Hare and Foxe Cat and Brocke Wild Fowell with his flocke Partrich Fesant hen and Fesant cocke With green and wilde stob and stocke To kepen and to yemen by all her might Both by day and eke by night And Hounds for to hold Good and swift and bolde Four Greahounds and six racches For Hare and Foxe and wild Cattes And therefore ich made him my booke Witnesse the Bishop Wolston And booke ylered many on And Swein of Essex our Brother And teken him many other And our Stiward Howelin That by sought me for him This was the plaine dealing trueth and simplicity of that age which used to make all their assurances whatsoever in a few lines and with a few gilt Crosses For before the comming in of the Normans as wee read in Ingulphus writings Obligatory were made firme with golden Crosses and other small signes or markes but the Normans began the making of such Bils and Obligations with a Print or Seale in wax set to with every ones speciall Signet under the expresse entituling of three or foure Witnesses Before time many houses and land thereto passed by grant and bargaine without script Charter or Deede onely with the Landlords sword or helmet with his horne or cup. Yea and many Tenements were demised with a spurre or horse-cury-combe with a bowe and some with an arrow In the Creeke of Blackwater which as I said closeth the North side of this Hundred and is stored with those dainty Oysters which wee call Walfleot Oysters their run two Rivers that water a great part of the Shire Chelmer and Froshwell The River Chelmer flowing out of the inner part of the country which is woody runneth downe first by Thaxted a little Mercate Towne seated very pleasantly upon an high rising hill also by Tiltey where Maurice Fitz-Gilbert founded in times past a small Abbay unto Estanues ad Turrim now Eston which noble Gentleman sirnamed De Lovaine inhabited as descended from Godfrey of Lovaine brother to Henry the Sixth of that name Duke of Brabant who being sent hither to keepe the Honor of Eye his posterity flourished among the Peeres of this Realme to the time of King Edward the Third when the heire generall was married into the house of Bourchier Thence it glideth downe to Dunmow of old time called Dunmawg and in the Tax booke of England Dunmaw a Towne pleasantly situate upon an hill with a prety gentle fall Where one Juga founded a Priory in the yeare 1111. But William Bainard of whom Juga held thus we finde it written in the private history of this Church the Village of little Dunmow by felony lost his Barony and King Henry the First gave it to Robert the sonne of Richard sonne to Gislebert Earle of Clare and to his heires with the honour of Bainards Castle in London which Robert at that time was King Henries Sewar These be the very words of the Author neither doe I thinke it lawfull for me to alter or reforme them otherwise than they are although there be in them some 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a putting or mistaking of one time for another a thing that we meet with otherwhiles in the best Historiographers For there had not beene as then any Earle of Clare in the family of Clare Now let us for a while digresse and goe aside a little on either hand from the River Not farre from hence is Plaisy seated so called in French of Pleasing in times past named Estre the habitation both in the last yeeres of the English Saxons and also afterwards of the great Constables of England as witnesseth Ely booke At this towne the first William Mandevill Earle of Essex beganne a Castle and two Princes of great authority Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester and Earle of Essex who founded heere a College and Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon brother to King Richard the Second by the mothers side deprived of lost honorable title of Duke of Excester when they could not keepe a meane betweene froward stubbernesse and servile obsequiousnesse found thence their subversion For Thomas upon his rash and head-strong contumacy was on a sudden violently carryed from hence to Calice and there smothered and John for a seditious conspiracy was beheaded in this place by King Henry the Fourth that hee might seeme to have beene justly punished by way of satisfaction for the said Thomas of Woodstocke of whose death hee was thought to bee the principall practiser and procurer From thence passeth Chelmer downe not farre from Leez a little Abbay of old time founded by the Gernons which at this day is the chiefe seat of the Barons Rich who acknowledge themselves for this dignity beholden to Richard Rich a most wise and judicious person Lord Chancellor of England under King Edward the Sixth who in the first yeere of his raigne created him Baron Rich. A little beneath standeth Hatfield Peverell so denominated of Randulph Peverell the owner thereof who had to wife a Lady of incomparable beauty in those daies the daughter of Ingelricke a man of great nobility among the English-Saxons This Lady founded heere a College which now is in manner quite plucked downe and in a window of the Church whereof there remaineth still a small part lyeth entombed She bare unto her husband William Peverell Castellane of Dover Sir Payne Peverell Lord of Brun in the County of Cambridge and unto King William the Conquerour whose Paramore shee was William Peverell Lord of Nottingham But now returne we to Chelmer which by this time speedeth it selfe to Chelmerford commonly Chensford where by the distance of the place from CAMALODUNUM it may seeme that old CANONIUM sometimes stood This is a good bigge Towne situate in the
see And on the other Hoc Anglis signo Regem fatearis eundem By this a King to Englishmen acknowledge him to be Moreover as William of Malmesburie doth report In imitation of Caesars policy who expelled the Germans lying hidden within that huge forrest Ardenna and by many asallie from thence annoying his armie not by the helpe of his owne Romans but by the Gaules his confederates to this end that whiles strangers and aliens killed one another himselfe might triumph with their bloud-shed the very same course I say did William take with the English men For against certaine of them who upon the first battell of that infortunate man Harold were fled into Denmarke and Ireland and returned with a puissant armie in the third yeere after he opposed meere English forces and an English generall permitting the Normans to sit still and keepe holiday foreseeing heereby and providing for his owne great easement whether of them soever should have the better Neither was he in this point frustrate of his purpose For the English having thus a prettie while skuffeled and skirmished one with another in the end rendred up the entire Victorie to the King without his paines taking And in another place Having undermined and quite overthrowne the power of the Laimen he provided by a sure and irrevocable edict to suffer no Monke or Clerke of the English Nation to endevour for to get any dignitie much disagreeing herein from the clemencie and gentlenesse of King Cnuto in times past who gave unto those that he conquered all their honours entire And hence it came to passe that when hee was once dead the naturall Inhabitants of the countrey upon light occasions fell to driving out of strangers and recovered unto themselves their ancient right and freedome When he had brought this to passe above all things hee laboured to turne away the storme of the Danish wars that hung over his head and to purchase peace though it were with round sums of mony Wherein he used Adelbert Archbishop of Hamburgh as his Instrument For Adam Bremensis writeth thus Betweene Suen and the Bastard there was continuall strife about England although our Bishop being greased in the hand with Williams bribes would have concluded a firme peace betwixt the Kings Which may seeme also to have beene established for since that time England was never any whit afraid of the Danes And William verily betooke himselfe wholly to the defence and maintenance of his Imperiall dignitie and to governe the state by excellent lawes For as Gervase of Tilburie writeth When the renowned Conqueror of England King William had subdued the farther coasts of this Island under his dominion and throughly tamed the stomacks and hearts of rebels by terrible examples lest that from thenceforth they should licentiously run into errour and commit trespasse he determined to reduce his subjects under the obedience of positive and written Lawes Having therefore all the lawes of England laid before him according to the Tripartite Division whereby they were distinguished that is to say Merchenlag Denelag and Westsex-enlag when hee had rejected some of them and allowed of others he adjoyned thereto those Lawes of Neustria beyond the seas which seemed most effectuall to preserve the peace of his Kingdome Afterwards as mine Author Ingulphus saith who flourished in those daies He commanded every Inhabitant of England to doe him homage and to sweare fealtie to him against all men He tooke the survey and description of the whole Land neither was there an Hide of England through but he knew both the value and the owner thereof there was neither plash nor place but set it was in the Kings Roll and the rent revenue and profit thereof the very tenure of possession and possessour himselfe was made knowne to the King according to the credit and true relation of certaine Taxers who being chosen out of every country did put downe in writing the territorie properly belonging thereto And this Roll was called the Roll of Winchester and by the Englishmen for the generalitie thereof because it contained fully and exactly all the tenements of the whole Land named Domesday I have beene more willing to make mention of this booke because it is to be cited alleaged often times hereafter which booke also it pleaseth me to name Gulielmi librum Censualem that is The Tax-booke of William Angliae Notitiam that is The Notice of England Angliae commentarios Censuales that is The Taxe Register or Sessing booke of England and Angliae Lustrum that is the Survey of England But whereas Polydore Virgill writeth how William that Conqueror first brought in the Triall or Iudgement of twelve men there is nothing more untrue For most certaine it is and apparant by the lawes of Etheldred that it was in use many yeares before Neither hath he any cause to terme it a terrible Iudgement For these 12. free-borne and lawfull men are duely by order empannelled and called forth of the Neighbourhood these are bound by oath to pronounce and deliver up their Verdict de facto they heare the counsell pleading in courts on both sides before the Bench or Tribunall and the disposition of witnesses then taking with them the evidences of both parties they are shut up together and kept from meat drinke and fire unlesse haply some one of them be in danger of death thereby so long untill they be all agreed of the fact which when they have pronounced before the Judge hee according to right and law giveth his definitive sentence For this manner of triall our most sage and wise Ancestours have thought the best to finde out the truth to avoid corruption and cut off all partialitie and affections Now as touching martiall prowesse how much the Normans excelled therein let others tell this may suffice for me to have said thus much that being planted among most warlike nations they alwaies saved themseves not by obsequious basenesse but by force of armes and founded most noble Kingdomes in England and Sicilie For Tancrede nephew unto Richard the second of that name Duke of Normandie and his posteritie atchieved brave exploits in Italie and having compelled the Sarazens to flie out of Sicilie erected a Kingdome there Whereupon the Sicilian Historiographer doth freely acknowledge that the Sicilians are beholden unto the Normans for that themselves remaine still in their native soile live in freedome and continue Christians Likewise in the holy Land their martiall prowesse hath been seen with singular commendation Hence it is also that Roger Hoveden writeth in these termes Bold France having made triall once of the Normans warfare durst not peepe out Fierce England being conquered yielded as captive unto them Rich Apulia falling to the lot of their possession flourished a fresh Famous Ierusalem and renowned Antioch were both subdued by them And ever since their comming England as well for martiall honour as civill behaviour hath among the most flourishing Kingdomes of
Chamberlaine to King Richard the Third attainted by King Henry the Seventh and slaine in the battaile at Stoke in the quarrell of Lambert that Counterfeit Prince whose sister Fridiswid was Grandmother to Henry the first Lord Norris Hence Windrush hodling on his course watereth Whitney an ancient Towne and before the Normans daies belonging to the Bishops of Winchester to which adjoyneth Coges the chiefe place of the Barony of Arsic the Lords whereof branched out of the family of the Earles of Oxford are utterly extinguished many yeeres agoe Neere unto this the Forest of Witchwood beareth a great breadth and in time past spread farre wider For King Richard the Third disforested the great Territory of Witchwood betweene Woodstocke and Brightstow which Edward the Fourth made to be a Forest as Iohn Rosse of Warwicke witnesseth Isis having received Windrush passeth downe to Einsham in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a Manour in times past of the Kings seated among most pleasant medowes which Cuthwulfe the Saxon was the first that tooke from the Britans whom he had hereabout vanquished and long after Aethelmar a Nobleman beautified it with an Abbay the which Aethelred King of England in the yeere of Salvation 1005. confirmed to the Benedictine Monkes and in his confirmation signed the priviledge of the liberty thereof I speake out of the very originall grant as it was written with the signe of the sacred Crosse but now is turned into a private dwelling house and acknowledgeth the Earle of Derby Lord thereof Beneath this Evenlode a little river arising likewise out of Cotteswald speedeth him into Isis which riveret in the very border of the Shire passeth by an ancient Monument standing not farre from his banke to wit certaine huge stones placed in a round circle the common people usually call them Rolle-rich-stones and dreameth that they were sometimes men by a wonderfull Metamorphosis turned into hard stones The draught of them such as it is portrayed long since heere I represent unto your view For without all forme and shape they bee unequall and by long continuance of time much impaired The highest of them all which without the circle looketh into the earth they use to call The King because hee should have beene King of England forsooth if hee had once seene Long Compton a little Towne so called lying beneath and which a man if he goe some few paces forward may see other five standing at the other side touching as it were one another they imagine to have been knights mounted on horse backe and the rest the Army But loe the foresaid Portraiture These would I verily thinke to have beene the Monument of some Victory and haply erected by Rollo the Dane who afterwards conquered Normandie For what time as he with his Danes and Normans troubled England with depredations we read that the Danes joined battaile with the English thereby at Hoche Norton and afterwards fought a second time at Scier stane in Huiccia which also I would deeme to be that Mere-stone standing hard by for a land Marke and parting foure shires For so much doth that Saxon word Scier-stane most plainly import Certainly in an Exchequer booke the Towne adjacent is called Rollen-drich where as it is there specified Turstan le Dispenser held land by Serjeanty of the Kings Dispensary that is to be the Kings Steward As for that Hoch-Norton which I spake of before for the rusticall behaviour of the Inhabitants in the age afore going it grew to be a proverbe when folke would say of one rudely demeaning himselfe and unmane●ly after an Hoggish kinde that hee was borne at Hocknorton This place for no one thing was more famous in old time than for the woefull slaughter of the Englishmen in a foughten field against the Danes under the Raigne of King Edward the Elder Afterwards it became the seat of the Barony of the D' Oilies an honourable and ancient Family of the Norman race of whom the first that came into England was Robert de Oily who for his good and valiant service received of William Conquerour this Towne and many faire possessions whereof hee gave certaine to his sworne brother Roger Ivery which were called the Barony of Saint Valeric But when the said Robert departed this life without issue male his brother Niele succeeded him therein whose sonne Robert the second was founder of Osney Abbay But at length the daughter and heire generall of this house D' Oily was married to Henry Earle of Warwicke and she bare unto him Thomas Earle of Warwicke who dyed without issue in the Raigne of Henry the Third and Margaret who deceased likewise without children abeit shee had two husbands John Marescall and John de Plessetis both of them Earles of Warwicke But then that I may speake in the very words of the Charter of the Grant King Henry the Third granted Hoch-norton and Cudlington unto John de Plessetis which were in times past the possessions of Henry D'Oily and which after the decease of Margaret wife sometime to the foresaid John Earle of Warwicke fell into the kings hand as an Escheat of Normans lands To have and to hold untill the lands of England and Normandy were common Howbeit out of this ancient and famous stocke there remaineth at this day a family of D' Oilies in this shire Evenlode passeth by no memorable thing else but La Bruer now Bruern sometime an Abbay of white Monks and after he hath runne a good long course taketh to him a Brooke neere unto which standeth Woodstocke in the English Saxon language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A woody place where King Etheldred in times past held an assembly of the States of the Kingdome and enacted Lawes Heere is one of the Kings houses full of State and magnificence built by King Henry the First who adjoyned also thereunto a very large Parke compassed round about with a stone wall which John Rosse writeth to have beene the first Parke in England although we read once or twise even in Doomesday Booke these words Parcus silvestris bestiarum in other places In which sense old Varro useth the word Parcus which some thinke to be but a new word But since that Parkes are growne to such a number that there bee more of them in England than are to be found in all Christendome beside so much were our Ancestours ravished with an extraordinary delight of hunting Our Historians report that King Henry the Second being enamoured upon Rosamund Clifford a Damosell so faire so comely and well favoured without comparison that her beauty did put all other women out of the Princes minde in so much as now shee was termed Rosa mundi that is The Rose of the World and for to hide her out of the sight of his jealous Juno the Queene he built a Labyrinth in this house with many inexplicable windings backward and forward Which notwithstanding is no where to be seene at this day The Towne
cruelty for that some of his followers were slaine there in a fray that there followed thereupon a most heavy banishment of the Students and the University a sorrowfull spectacle lay as it were halfe dead and past all recovery untill the dayes of king William the Conquerour Whom some write falsly to have wonne it by assault but Oxonia written amisse in the Copies for Exonia that is Excester deceived them And that it was at that time a place of Studies and Students may bee understood out of these words of Ingulph who in that age flourished I Ingulph saith hee being first placed in Westminster and afterwards sent to the Study of Oxford when as in learning of Aristotle I had profited above my fellowes of the same time c. For those Schooles of Learning which wee call Academies or Vniversities that Age termed Studia that is Studies as I will shew anone But at this very time it was so empoverished that whereas within the wall and without I speake out of William the Conquerour his Domesday booke there were about seaven hundred and fifty houses besides foure and twenty Mansions upon the Walls five hundred of them were not able to pay their Subsidy or Imposition And to use the very words of that booke This Citty paid pro Theloneo et Gablo and for other Customes by the yeare to the King twenty pounds and sixe quarts of Hony and unto Earle Algar tenne pounds About this time Robert D'oily a noble man of Normandy of whom I have before spoken when hee had received at the hands of William the Conquerour in reward of his Service in the Warres large Possessions in this Shire built a spacious Castle in the West side of the Citty with deepe Ditches Rampiers an high raised Mount and therein a Parish Church to Saint George unto which when as the Parishioners could not have accesse by reason that King Stephen most streightly besieged Maude the Empresse within this Castle Saint Thomas Chappell in the streete hard by was built He also as it is thought fortified the whole Citty with new walls which by little and little time doth force and as it were embreach with his assault Robert likewise Nephew unto him by his brother Neale and Chamberlaine to King Henry the First founded Ousney or Osney a most stately Abbay as the ruines doe yet shew amidst the divided waters not farre from the Castle perswaded thereto by Edith his wife the daughter of Forne who before time had beene one of King Henry the First his sweet hearts and lig-bies About those times as we read in the Chronicle of the said Osney Abbay Robert Pulein beganne to reade in Oxford the Holy Scriptures in England now growne out of request Who afterwards when as by his Doctrine the English and Frenchmen both had much profited was called by Pope Lucius the second and promoted to be Chancellour of the Church of Rome To the same effect also writeth Iohn Rosse of Warwicke By the procurement of King Henry the First the Divinity Lecture which had discontinued a long time in Oxford began againe to flourish and there he built a Palace which King Edward the Second at length converted into a Covent of Carmelits But long before this time in this Palace was borne into the World that Lion-hearted Knight Richard the First King of England commonly called Ceeur de Lion a Prince of a most hauty minde and full of resolution borne for the weale of Christendome the honour of England and the terrour of Infidels Upon whose death a Poet in that age of no meane conceite versified thus for that his remaines were interred in diverse places Viscera Carcelorum Corpus Fons servat Ebrardi Et cor Rhothomagum Magne Richarde tuum In tria dividitur unus qui plus fuit uno Nec superest uno gloria tanta viro Hîc Richarde jaces sed mors si cederet armis Victa timore tui cederet ipsa tuis Thy Bowels keep 's Carceolum thy corps Font Everard And Roan thy valiant Lions heart O noble great Richard Thus one three fold divided is for more he was then one And for that one so great he was such glory is in none Here li'st thou Richard but if death to force of armes could yeeld For feare of thee he would to thee have given as lost the field Thus after the Citty was refreshed againe with these buildings many beganne to flocke hither as it were to a Mart of learning and vertue and by the industrious meanes especially of that Robert Pulein a man borne to promote the Common-wealth of learning who refused no paines but laboured all that he could to set open againe those Well springs of good Literature which had beene stopped up through the favour especially of King Henry the First King Henry the Second and King Richard his sonne of whom I spake ere while And these endeavours of Pulein sped so well and tooke so good effect that in the reigne of King Iohn there were here three thousand Students who all at once every one changed their Habitation to Reding and partly to Cambridge because the Citizens seemed to wrong and abuse overmuch these Students and Professours of Learning but after this tumult was appeased they returned within a short time Then and in the age presently ensuing as God provided this City for good learning so he raised up a number of very good Princes and Prelats to the good thereof who for the adorning and maintenance of learning extended their liberality in the highest degree For when King Henry the Third had by way of Pilgrimage visited Saint Frideswide a thing before-time thought to bee an hainous Offence in a Prince for the dishonour offered to her by Algar a Prince and so removed that superstitious feare wherewith some superstitious Priestes had for a time frighted Princes from once comming to Oxford and had assembled here a very great Parliament for the composing of certaine controversies betweene him and the Barons hee confirmed the priviledges granted by the former Kings and conferred also some other himselfe So that by this time there was so great store of learned men that divers most skilfull in Divinity as well as in Humanitie were in great numbers spread from thence both into the Church and Common-wealth and Mathew Paris in plaine termes called The Vniversity of Oxford The Second Schoole of the Church nay rather a ground worke of the Church next after Paris For with the name of Vniversity the Bishops of Rome had before time honoured Oxford which Title at that time by their Decrees they vouchsafed to none but unto that of Paris this of Oxford unto Bononia in Italy and Salamanca in Spaine And in the Councell of Vienna it was ordained that there should bee erected Schooles for the Hebrew Greeke Arabicke and Chaldaean tongues in the Studies of Paris Oxford Bononie and Salamanca as the most famous of all others to the end
ceciderunt lumina saevo Thousands of torments when he had endur'd for Christ his sake At length he dyed by dome thus given his head away to take The Tortor proudly did the feat but cleere he went not quite That holy Martyr lost his head this cruell wretch his sight In reproch of this Martyr and for the terrour of Christians as wee finde in an old Agon of his the Citizens of Verulam engraved his Martyrdome in a Marble stone and inserted the same in their walles But afterwards when the bloud of Martyrs had conquered Tyrants cruelty the Christians built a Church as Bede saith of wondrous workmanship in memoriall of him and Verulam carried with it so great an opinion of Religion that there in was holden a Synode or Councell in the yeere of the worlds Redemption 429. when as the Pelagian Heresie by meanes of Agricola sonne to the Bishop Severianus had budded forth a fresh into this Island and polluted the British Churches so as that to averre and maintaine the truth they sent for German Bishop of Auxerre and Lupus Bishop of Troies out of France who by refuting this heresie gained unto themselves a reverend account among the Britans but chiefly German who hath thorowout this Island many Churches dedicated to his memory And nere unto the ruined wals of this rased city there remaineth yet a Chappell bearing S. Germans name still although it be put to a prophane use in which place he openly out of the Pulpit preached Gods word as the ancient records of S. Albans church do testifie Which German as Constantius flourishing in that time writeth in his life commanded the Sepulchre of Saint Albane to bee opened and therein bestowed certaine Reliques of Saints that whom one heaven had received should also in one Sepulchre bee together lodged Thus much I note by the way that yee may observe and consider the fashions of that age Not long after the English Saxons wonne it but Uther the Britan firnamed for his serpentine wisedome Pendragon by a sore siege and a long recovered it After whose death it fell againe into their hands For we may easily gather out of Gildas words that the Saxons in his daies were possessed of this City God saith hee hath lighted unto us the most cleere Lamps of holy Saints the Sepulchres of whose bodies and places of their Martyrdome at this day were they not taken away by the woefull disseverance which the barbarous enemy hath wrought amongst us for our many grievous sinnes might kindle no small heat of divine charity in the mindes of the beholders Saint Albane of Verulam I meane c. When Verulam by these warres was utterly decaied Offa the most mighty King of the Mercians built just over against it about the yeere of our Lord 795. in a place which they called Holmehurst a very goodly and large Monastery in memory of Saint Alban or as wee reade in the very Charter thereof Unto our Lord Iesus Christ and S. Alban Martyr whose Reliques Gods grace hath revealed in hope of present prosperity and future happinesse and forthwith with the Monastery there rose a Towne which of him they call Saint Albans This King Offa and the succeeding Kings of England assigned unto it very faire and large possessions and obtained for it at the hands of the Bishops of Rome as ample priviledges which I will relate out of our Florilegus that yee may see the profuse liberality of Princes toward the Church Thus therefore writeth he Offa the most puissant King gave unto Saint Alban the Protomartyr that Towne of his ancient Demesne which standeth almost twenty miles from Verulam and is named Uneslaw with as much round about as the Kings written Deedes at this day doe witnesse that are to bee seene in the foresaid Monastery which Monastery is priviledged with so great liberty that it alone is quite from paying that Apostolicall custome and rent which is called Rom-scot whereas neither King nor Archbishop Bishop Abbat Prior nor any one in the Kingdome is freed from the payment thereof The Abbat also or monke appointed Archdeacon under him hath pontificall Jurisdiction over the Priests and Lay-men of all the possessions belonging to this Church so as he yeeldeth subjection to no Archbishop Bishop or Legate save only to the Pope of Rome This likewise is to be knowne that Offa the Magnificent King granted out of his Kingdome a set rent or imposition called Rom-scot to Saint Peters Vicar the Bishop of Rome and himselfe obtained of the said Bishop of Rome that the Church of Saint Alban the Protomartyr of the English nation might faithfully collect and being so collected reserve to their proper use the same Rom-scot throughout all the Province of Hertford in which the said Church standeth Whence it is that as the Church it selfe hath from the King all royall priviledges so the Abbot of that place for the time being hath all Pontificall ornaments Pope Hadrian also the fourth who was borne hard by Verulam granted this indulgence unto the Abbats of this Monasterie I speake the very words out of the Priviledge that as Saint Alban is distinctly knowne to be the Protomartyr of the English nation so the Abbat of this Monastery should at all times among other Abbats of England in degree of dignitie be reputed first and principall Neither left the Abbats ought undone that might serve either for use or ornament who filled up with earth a mighty large poole under Verulam which I spake of The name whereof yet remaineth still heere in a certaine street of the towne named Fish-poole-streete Neere unto which streete because certaine ankers were in our remembrance digged up divers have verily thought induced thereunto by a corrupt place in Gildas that the river Tamis sometimes had his course and chanell this way But of this Meere or Fish-poole have heere what an old Historian hath written Abbot Alfrike for a great peece of money purchased a large and deepe pond an evill neighbour and hurtfull to Saint Albans Church which was called Fish-poole appertaining to the Kings And the Kings officers and fishers molested the Abbay and burdened the Monkes thereby Out of which poole he the said Abbot in the end drained and derived the water and made it dry ground If I were disposed upon the report of the common people to reckon up what great store of Romane peeces of coine how many cast images of gold and silver how many vessels what a sort of modules or Chapiters of pillars and how many wonderfull things of antique worke have been digged up my words would not carry credit The thing is so incredible Yet take with you some few particulars thereof upon the credite of an ancient Historiographer Ealred the Abbot in the reigne of King Eadgar having searched for the ancient vaults under ground at Verulam overthrew all About the yeere of Christ 960. and stopped up all the waies with passages under ground which were strongly and
all England made fruitfull by meanes of very many Masters and Teachers proceeding out of Cambridge in manner of the Holy Paradise c. But at what time it became an Vniversity by authority Robert de Remington shall tell you Vnder the Reigne saith hee of Edward the First Grantbridge of a Schoole was made an Vniversity such as Oxenford is by the Court of Rome But what meane I thus unadvisedly to step into these lists Wherein long since two most learned old men have encountred one with another Unto whom verely as to right learned men I am willing to yeeld up my weapons and vaile bonnet with all reverence The Meridian line cutting the Zenith just over Cambridge is distant from the furthest West poynt twenty three degrees and twenty five scruples And the Arch of the same Meridian lying betweene the Aequator and Verticall poynt is fiftie two degrees and II. scruples Cam from Cambridge continuing his course by Waterbeach an ancient seat of Nuns which Lady Mary S. Paul translated from thence to Denny somewhat higher but nothing healthfuller when in a low ground he hath spread a Mere associateth himselfe with the River Ouse But to returne hard under Cambridge Eastward neere unto Sture a little brooke is kept every yeere in the moneth of September the greatest Faire of all England whether you respect the multitude of buyers and sellers resorting thither or the store of commodities there to be vented Hard by whereas the way was most comberous and troublesome to passengers to and fro that right good and praise-worthy man G. Hervy Doctor of the Civill Law and M. of Trinity Hall in Cambridge made not long since with great charges but of a Godly and laudable intent a very faire raised Causey for three miles or thereabout in length toward Neumercat Neere unto Cambridge on the South-East side there appeare aloft certaine high Hills the Students call them Gogmagog-Hills Henry of Huntingdon tearmed them Amoenissima montana de Balsham that is The most pleasant Mountaines of Balsham by reason of a little Village standing beneath them wherein as hee writeth the Danes left no kinde of most savage cruelty unattempted On the top of these hills I saw a Fort intrenched and the same very large strengthened with a threefold Rampire an hold surely in those dayes inexpugnable as some skilfull men in feats of Warre bee of opinion were it not that water is so farre off Gervase of Tilbury seemeth to call it Vandelbiria Beneath Cambridge saith he there was a place named Vandelbiria for that the Vandals wasting the parts of Brittaine with cruell slaughter of Christians there encamped themselves where upon the very top of the hill they pitched their Tents there is a Plaine inclosed round with a Trench and Rampire which hath entrance into it but in one place as it were at a Gate Touching the Martiall spectre or sprite that walked here which he addeth to the rest because it is but a meere toyish and fantasticall devise of the doting vulgar sort I willing over-passe it For it is not my purpose to tell pleasant tales and tickle eares In the Vale under these hills is Salston to be seene which from the Burges of Burgh-Green by Walter De-la-pole and Ingalthorp came unto Sir Iohn Nevill Marquesse Mont-acute and by his daughter and one of his heires to the Hudlestons who have lived here in worship and reputation More Eastward first we meete with Hildersham belonging sometimes to the Bustlers and now by marriage to the Parises Further hard by the Woods is Horsheath situate the Possession whereof is knowne by a long descent to have pertained unto the ancient Families of the Argentons and Alingtons of whom elsewhere I have written and is now the habitation of the Alingtons Adjoyning hereunto is Castle Camps the ancient seat also of the Veres Earles of Oxford which Hugh Vere held as the old booke of Inquisition Records That he might be the Kings Chamberleine whereas notwithstanding most true it is that Henry the First King of England granted unto Aubry de Vere that Office in these words The principall Chamberlaineship of all England in Fee and Inheritance with all the Dignities Liberties and Honours thereto belonging as freely and honourably as Robert Mallet held the same c. The Kings notwithstanding ordained sometimes one and sometimes another at their pleasure to execute this Office The Earles of Oxford also that I may note it incidently by the heire of R. Sandford held the Manours of Fingrey and Wulfelmelston by Serjeanty of Chamberlainship to the Queenes at the Coronation of the Kings Not far from hence are seene here and there those great and long Ditches which certainly the East Angles did cast to restraine the Mercians who with sudden inrodes were wont most outragiously to make havocke of all before them The first of these beginneth at Hinkeston runneth Eastward by Hildersham toward Hors-heath about five miles in length The second neere unto this called Brentditch goeth from Melborne by Fulmer Where D. Hervies cawsey which I mentioned endeth there appeareth also a third forefence or ditch cast up in old time which beginning at the East banke of the river Cam reacheth directly by Fenn-Ditton or more truly Ditch-ton so called of the very Ditch betweene great Wilberham and Fulburn as farre as to Balsham At this day this is called commonly Seauen mile Dyke because it is seaven miles from Newmercate in times past Fleam-Dyke in old English that is Flight-Dyke of some memorable flight there as it seemeth At the said Wilberham sometimes called Wilburgham dwelt in times past the Barons Lisle of Rong-mount men of ancient nobility of whom John for his Martiall prowesse was by King Edward the Third ranged among the first founders of the order of the Garter and of that Family there yet remaineth an heire Male a reverend old Man and full of Children named Edmund Lisle who is still Lord of this place More East from hence five miles within the Country is to bee seene the fourth forefence or ditch the greatest of all the rest with a rampier thereto which the common people wondring greatly at as a worke made by Devils and not by men use to call Devils-Dyke others Rech-Dyke of Rech a little mercate towne where it beginneth This is doubtlesse that whereof Abbo Floriacensis when he describeth the sight of East England writeth thus From that part whereas the Sun inclineth Westward the Province it selfe adjoyneth to the rest of the Island and is therefore passable but for feare of being overrun with many invasions and inrodes of enemies it is fortified in the front with a banke or rampier like unto an huge wall and with a Trench or Ditch below in the ground This for many miles together cutteth overthwart that Plaine which is called Newmarket-heath where it lay open to incursions beginning at Rech above which the Country
worke also a fragment of an Altar with this Inscription engraven in great capitall letters three inches long erected by Haterianus the Lieutenant Generall of Augustus and Propretour of the Province Cilicia The next yeere following hard by was this Table also gotten out of the ground which prooveth that the foresaid Image was the personage of Diana and that her Temple was repaired by Titus Flavius Posthumius Varus an old souldier haply of a Band of the second Legion T. FL. POSTUMIUS VARUS V. C. LEG TEMPL DIANAE RESTITUIT Also a votive Altar out of which GETA the name of Caesar may seeme then to have beene rased what time as he was made away by his brother Antonine Bassianus and proclaimed an Enemy yet so as by the tract of the letters it is in some sort apparent PRO SALUTE AUGG. N. N. SEVERI ET ANTONINI ET GETAE CAES. P. SALTIENUS P. F. MAECIA THALAMUS HADRI PRAEF LEG II. AUG C. VAMPEIANO ET LUCILIAN This most beautifull Altar also though maimed and dismembred was there found which I thinke is thus to be made up Also these fragments 7. VECILIANA VIII 7. VALER MAXSIMI Moreover a little before the comming in of the English Saxons There was a Schoole heere of 200. Philosophers who being skilfull in Astronomy and all other Arts diligently observed the course and motion of the Starres as wrote Alexander Elsebiensis a rare Author and hard to be found out of whom Thomas James of Oxford a learned man and a true lover of Bookes who wholly addicted to learning and now laboriously searching the Libraries of England to the publique good purposeth that God blesse his labour which will be to the great benefit of all Students hath copied out very many notes for me In the Raigne of Henry the Second what time Giraldus wrote it seemeth that this City was of good strength For Yrwith of Caer Leon a courageous and hardy Britan defended it a great while against the English untill he was vanquished by the King and so disseized of the possession thereof But now that it may serve for an ensample that as well Cities have fatall periods of their flourishing state as men of their lives it is decaied and become a very small Towne which in times past was of that greatnesse and reaching out so farre in length on both sides of the River that Saint Julians an house of the late Sir William Herbert Knight was by report sometime within the very City where Saint Julius the Martyrs Church stood which now is much about a mile out of the Towne Also out of the ruines thereof a little beneath at the mouth of Vske grew up Newport which Giraldus nameth in Latine Novus Burgus a Towne of later time built and not unknowne by reason of the Castle and commodiousnesse of the Harbour in which place there was in times past some one of these Roman High wayes or Streets whereof Necham hath made mention in these Verses Intrat auget aquas Sabrini fluminis Osca Praceps testis erit Julia Strata mihi Vske into Severn headlong runnes and makes his streame to swell Witnesse with me is Julia Street that knoweth it full well This Julia Strata was no doubt some Port-high way and if we may be allowed to make a conjecture what great absurdity were it to say that it was cast up and made by Julius Fr●ntinus the vanquisher of the Silures There creepeth saith Giraldus in the bounds of this New-burgh or Newport a little River named Nant Pencarn which cannot bee waded and passed over but at certaine Fourds not so much for any depth that the water is of as for the hollownesse of the Chanell and the easie mudde in the bottome and it had of old a Fourd named Rydpencarn that is The Fourd under the top of a Rocke Which when Henry the Second King of England chanced at a venture to passe over even then when it was almost growne out of remembrance the Welshmen who were over credulous in beleeving of Prophesies as if now all had beene sure on the Kings side and themselves hopelesse of all helpe were quite out of heart and hope of good successe because Merlin Silvester the British Apollo had prophesied that then the Welshmens power should bee brought under when a stout Prince with a freckled face and such a one was King Henry the Second should passe over that Foord Under the Saxons Heptarchy this Region was subject to the mountaine Welshmen whom the English called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 who notwithstanding as the ancient lawes doe shew were under the command of the West Saxons But at the first comming in of the Normans the Lords Merchers most grievously plagued and annoyed them but especially Hamelin Balun of whom I spake Hugh Lacy Walter and Gilbert both sirnamed of the house of Clare Miles of Glocester Robert Chandos Pain Fitz-Iohn Richard Fitz Punt and Brien of Wallingford unto whom after that the Kings had once given whatsoever they could get and hold in this tract by subduing the Welsh some of these before named by little and little reduced under their subjection the upper part of this Shire which they called Over-went others the lower part which they termed Nether-went And this Shire is not accounted among the Shires of Wales This Shire containeth Parish Churches 127. GLAMORGAN-SHIRE THE last Country of the Silures was that I thinke which wee at this day call GLAMORGAN-SHIRE the Britans Morganuc Glath-Morgan and Glad Vorganuc that is The Region of Morganuc so named as most suppose of one Morgan a Prince as others thinke of Morgan an Abbay But if I derived it from Mor which in the British tongue signifieth The Sea I know not verily whether I should dally with the trueth or no Howbeit I have observed that a Towne in little Britaine standing upon the Sea-coast now called Morlais was of Ptolomee and the ancient Gaules tearmed Vorganium or Morganium for M. and V. consonant are often changed one for another in this tongue and whence I pray you but from the sea And this our Morganuc also lieth upon the sea for stretching out directly more in length than it spreadeth in bredth on the South side it is accoasted with the Severn sea But where it looketh toward the Land it hath on the East side Monmouth-shire on the North Brechnock-shire and on the West Caermarden-shire bordering upon it The North part by reason of the Mountaines is rough and unpleasant which as they bend downe Southward by little and little become more milde and of better soile and at the foote of them there stretcheth forth a Plaine open to the South-Sunne in that position of situation which Cato judged to bee the best and for the which Plinie so highly commendeth Italie For this part of the Country is most pleasant and fruitfull beautified also on every side with a number of Townes Jestine a great Lord in the Raigne of William Rufus
bigge and large as that it may seeme to match with a city Neither went it for any other but a castle when King William Rufus having raised over against it a tower called Mal-voisin gave assault continually to Mowbray while hee rebelled and lurked there who at length privily stole away escaped by flight The greatest part of the beauty therof was lost long time after in the civill warre when Bressie the Norman redoubted souldier who sided with the house of Lancaster exercised his rage against it very outragiously Since then it hath beene sore beaten with time and the windes together which have blowne by drifts an incredible deale of sand of the sea into the fortresses Hereto adjoyneth Emildon sometime the Barony of John Le Viscont but Rametta the heire of that house sold away the possessions to Simon de Montfort Earle of Leicester In this was borne John Duns called Scotus because hee was descended of Scotish bloud who being brought up in Merton Colledge at Oxford became wonderfull well learned in Logicke and in that crabbed and intricate Divinity of those dayes yet as one still doubtfull and unresolved he did overcast the truth of religion with mists of obscurity And with so profound and admirable subtlety in a darke and rude stile hee wrote many workes that hee deserved the title of the Subtile Doctor and after his owne name erected a new sect of the Scotists But hee died pitifully being taken with an Apoplexy and overhastily buried for dead whiles upon returne of life nature though too late was about to discusse the violence of the disease and hee making meanes in vaine by a lamentable noise to call for helpe after he had a long time knocked his head against the grave stone dashed out his owne braines and at last yeelded up his vitall breath Whereupon a certain Italian wrote thus of him Quaecunque humani fuerant jurisque sacrati In dubium veniunt cuncta vocante Scoto Quid quod in dubium illius sit vita vocata Morte illum simili ludificante strophâ Quum non ante virum vitâ jugularit ademptâ Quàm vivus tumulo conditus ille foret All learning taught in humane books and couch'd in holy writ Dan Scotus darke and doubtfull made by subtlety of wit No marvaile that to doubtfull termes of life himselfe was brought Whiles with like wile and subtle tricke death on his body wrought When as her stroke to kill outright she would not him vouchsafe Untill the man a piteous case was buried quicke in grave That he was borne here in England I avouch it out of his owne manuscript works in the Library of Merton Colledge in Oxford and upon their faithfull testimony which conclude in this maner Explicit Lectura c. that is Thus endeth the Lecture of the subtle Doctor in the University of Paris Iohn Duns borne in a certaine little village or hamlet within the Parish of Emildon called Dunston in the county of Northumberland pertaining to the house of the scholars of Merton Hall in Oxford On this shore forward there is nothing to be seene worth relation but the Holy Island whereof I will write in due place untill a man come to the mouth of Twede which parteth England and Scotland a great way asunder and is called the East limit and thereupon our Necham thus writeth insinuating that the hither part of Scotland was called Pict-land Anglos à Pictis sejungit limite certo Flumen quod Tuedam pristina lingua vocat The river Twede a certaine bound Divides * Pict-land from English ground This river breaking forth at a number of Springs out of the mountaines of Scotland wandereth a great while with many a crooked winding in and out among the ranke-riders and borderers to give them no worse tearme whose manner is as one saith to try their right by the swords point But when hee is come hard to a village called Carram waxing a great deale bigger by reason of many waters fallen unto him hee begins to distinguish the Confines of the Kingdomes And when hee hath watered Werke a Castle often assaulted by the Scottish belonging in times past to the Rosses and now to the Graies who by feats of armes have wonne much honour hee is encreased more with the streame of Till a river that hath two names For at the head which is in the innermore part of this country it is called Bramish and upon it standeth Bramton a little village very obscure and almost of no reckoning from whence it goeth Northward by Bengeley which together with Brampton it selfe with Broundum Rodam which hath given name to a stock in this tract of good note Edelingham c. was in King Henry the third his time the Barony of Patricke Earle of Dunbar who also as we read in the book of Inquisitions was Inborow and Outborow betweene England and Scotland that is to say if I mistake it not he was to allow and observe in this part the ingresse and egresse of those that travailed too and fro betweene both Realmes For Englishmen in ancient time called in their language an Entry and fore Court or Gatehouse 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Higher somewhat standeth Chevelingham now called Chillingham hard by the river which like as Horton not farre distant from it had their Castles belonging to the Greies ever since that those two families of the Greies were conjoyned in one by marriage There lyeth neere unto it Wollover a Barony which King Henry the first gave to Robert Muschampe who bare Azure three Butterflies or Papilions Argent of whose race descended Robert who in Henry the third his reigne was reputed the mightiest Baron in these North parts But the inheritance was quickly dismembred and parted among the females one of whom was married unto the Earle of Stratherne in Scotland a second to Sir William de Huntercombe and a third to Odonell Ford. Then the river of Glen from out of the West augmenteth Till with his waters and nameth the vale that he runneth thorow Glendale Touching this little river Bede writeth thus Paulinus comming with the King and Queen into a Manour or house of the Kings called Ad-Gebrin at this day Yeverin abode with them 36. daies there emploied wholly in the catechizing and baptising during all which time he did nothing from morning but instruct the people resorting to him in the saving word of Christ and being thus instructed he baptised them to the forgivenesse of their sinnes in the river of Glen which was hard by This house was in the time of the succeeding Kings neglected and another made for it in a place called Melmin but at this day Melfeld Here within a little of Brum-ridge by Brumeford K. Athelstan fought a pitched field with Aulase the Dane Constantine K. of Scots and Eugenius or Owein Prince of Cumberland with so fortunate successe that this battaile was most famous farre
and neere yea and triumphantly described by the Historians and Poets of that time in the highest degree with stately stile and lofty verse in the language of that age in barbarous Latin Here Bramish losing his owne name comes to bee called Till and first saluteth Ford Castle belonging sometimes to the warlike and valiant house of the Herons now to the family of the Carrs then Etall where the family surnamed De Maneriis or Manours sometimes inhabited reckoned in the ranke of worshipfull Knights out of which flourish the right honourable Earles of Rutland at this day Many small castles and piles in this tract I wittingly let passe For an endlesse peece of worke it were to goe through them all one by one considering it is certaine that in King Henry the second his time there were eleven hundred and fifteene Castles in England Right over against this Ford westward there mounteth aloft an high hill called Floddon neere Bramton memorable in regard of James the fourth King of Scots who was there slaine and his army overthrowne who whiles King Henry the eighth lay at the siege of Tournay in France marched forward in great courage and greater hope with Banner displayed against England But Thomas Howard Earle of Surry arraunged in good order of battaile valiantly in this place received him where the fight continued sharpe and hot on both parts untill the night came upon them uncertaine as then whether side had the victory But the day ensuing manifested both the Conquerour and conquered and the King of Scots himselfe with many a mortall wound was found among the heapes of dead bodies And hereupon was granted a new augmentation unto the Armes of the Howards as I have formerly specified Twede having now entertained Till runneth downe with a fuller streame by Nor●ham or Northam in old time called Ubbanford a towne belonging to the Bishops of Durham For Egfrid the Bishop built it and Raulph his successour erected a Castle upon the top of an high steepe rocke and fortified it with a trench in the utmore wall whereof which is of greater circuit are placed sundry turrets in a Canton toward the river within there is another enclosure or wall much stronger in the midst of which there riseth up the Keepe of great heigth But the secure peace of our age hath now a long time neglected these fortifications albeit they stand in the borders Under it lieth the towne in a plaine Westward and hath in it a Church wherein was enterred Ceolwulph King of Northumberland unto whom Venerable Bede dedicated his booke of the Ecclesiasticall history of England and who afterwards renouncing the world became a Monke in Lindiffarn Church and served as a Christian souldier for the Kingdome of heaven and his body was conveyed after that into the Church of Norham Also when the Danes harried and spoiled the Holy Iland where Saint Cuthbert whom Bede so highly extolleth both sate as Bishop and lay buried and some went about by a devout and religious kind of stealth to transport his body over by occasion that the winds were against them They laid the sacred body downe with due honour at Ubbanford whether it were an Episcopall See or no it is uncertaine hard by the river Twede and there it lay for many yeeres together untill the comming of K. Etheldred Of this and of other things I had information for I will never conceale by whom I have found any good by George Carleton borne here as who was the Castellanes sonne of this place whom for that I have loved in regard of his singular knowledge in Divinity which hee professeth and in other more delightfull literature and am loved againe of him I were not worthy I assure you of love if I did not acknowledge thus much Beneath Norham at Killey a little village hard by were found as I have heard old men say in our grandfathers remembrance the ornaments or Harnish of a Knights belt and the hilt of a sword of massie gold which were presented unto Thomas Ruthall then Bishop of Durham A little lower appeareth the Mouth of Twede upon the farther side whereof standeth Berwicke the utmost towne in England and the strongest hold in all Britaine Which name some derive from one Berengarius a Duke whom they never heard of unlesse it were in a dreame Leland fetcheth it from Aber which in the British tongue signifieth the mouth of a river so that Aberwic should sound as much as The towne by the rivers mouth But he that knowes what Berwic in the Charters of our Kings signifieth wherein nothing is more common than these words I give C. and D. that is such and such townes cum suis Berwicis surely he must needs understand the true Etymologie of this Berwicke For mine owne part I cannot conjecture what it meaneth unlesse it be a Village or Hamlet annexed as it were a parcell of the Demesne unto some place of greater reckoning For in the donations of Edward the Confessour Totthill is called the Berwicke of Westminster and Wandlesworth the Berwicke of Patricseie and a hundred such But to what end is all this Surely we doe but lose this labour if as some will have it the name thereof were in old time 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the English Saxon tongue that is The towne or village of the Bernicians Now that these countries were named Bernicia it is better knowne than can bee said and I have already notified as much But whence soever it hath the name it is so situate that it shooteth farre into the sea in so much as it is well neere compassed about with the sea and Twede together and seated betwixt two most mighty Kingdomes as Pliny hath reported of Palmyra in Syria It was the first thing alwayes that both nations tooke care of whensoever they were at any discord so that since the time that King Edward the first of that name first wrested it perforce out of the Scots hands the Scots have oftentimes repossessed it and the Englishmen as often recovered it from them againe But let us here if you please abridge the History thereof Of this Berwicke I have read nothing of greater antiquity than this that William King of Scots being taken Prisoner in the field by the English delivered it up unto our King Henry the second for his enlargement out of prison on this condition that unlesse by a certaine day appointed hee payd a summe of money for his ransome it should belong unto the Crowne of England for ever and presently as it is in the Polychronicon of Durham the said King Henry fortified it with a Castle Howbeit King Richard the first upon payment of the money released it againe unto the Scotish Afterwards King John as we read in the history of Melrosse wonne both the towne and Castle of Berwick what time as he with his Rutars burnt Werke Roxburgh Mitford and Morpath yea and laid all Northumberland most because the
* Membrosa sua majestate The head of Severn Severn Newtowne Anno xj Corndon hill Welch Poole Red Castle Matrafall * De veteri Ponte Lan-vethlin Earle of Montgomery Princes of Powise Lords of Powise * Servitour or Gentleman of the Privy Chamber Dupli Norm 6. Henr. 5. Earle of Tanquervill Mountaines exceeding high Wolves in England destroied See Derby-shire and Yorke shire Mouthwy Dolegethle Herberts way Fastineog Helens street The Sources of Dee Pimble-meare Guiniad fishes Bala Conway Ri● The Alpes Britany Snow-don hilles Nivicollini Canganum Lhein Pulhely Nevin The life of Gruffin Menai Segontium Lhan Beblin Tor-coch fishes Caer-narvon Banchor as or would say Pe●●chor that is principal Qui as others thin The life of Gruffin Pen-maen-maur Conwey Rive● Pearles Conwey Towne Gogarth Dictum Diganwy Ganoc Mona Anglesey Druid● Lhan-vays 2. Pars Pat. anno 2. H. 5. Newburg Aber-fraw Holy head Saint Kibie As touching the Islands a●●joyning to A●●glesey See among the British Isles Denbigh Diffrin Cluid Cluid River Valle Cruel● Vale of the Crosse. Lead Wrexham Holt * Chirkes Castle Dinas Bran. Bren. Brennus Varis Bod-vari Caer-wisk Saint Asaph Capgrave Ruthlan Basing werke Haly-well Saint Winefrid Flint * Harden Barons of Mont-hault Or de monte Alto. Hope Castle Milstones Mold Bathes or hote waters Coles-hul English Mailor Ha-meere Earles of Chester The prudent policie of Edward the First See page 114 See page 164 Afterward a golden vierge was used Brigantes whereof they tooke name See Pasquier i● Les Recherche de France lib. cap. 40. Reinerus Reinecciu● Yet are they in Ireland called Brigantes in some Copies Cartismandu● Tacitus * The putting of one time for another A place in Tacitus corrected * Maldon Humber * First called Ure and Your West-Riding The river Do● Wortley Wentworth Sheafield Furnivall Rotheram Connis-borrow Florilegus 487. The Family of Fitz-Williams Dan-castre Tickhill Pla● anno 3. Ioan. Reg. Pl. M. 4. H. 3. Marshland Nosthill Saint Oswalds The River Calder Anno Christi 209. DVI The Genii of Places Lib. Ep. 40. Vopiscus in Probus Halifax Some would have it to be called aforetime the Chappell in the Grove Fax what it is Halifax law Almond-bury Cambodunum Whitley Kirkley Dewsborrough Wakefield 1460. The Savils Howley Medley The River Are. Araris in France Craven Skipton Latium Kigheley Leedes Winwidfield Elme● Ninius Calx viva Castleford Legeolium T. de castle ford Saint Willi●● of Yorke Lacy the Norman Placit 11. The booke Stanlow M●●nastery See Earles ● Lincolne Thomas 〈◊〉 of Lancaste● Aberford Cary Castle Barwic in Elmet Hesselwood Vavasores or Valvaforces Petres-post The battaile at Towton A quarry of stone The River Wherf Kilnesey Cra●●● Ilekeley Olicana * Of him U●●pian maketh mention lib. ● de Vulgari pupillari substitutione * Legato * Pro Praetor● Epist. 41. Otley Chevin Chervin what it signifieth Gevenna Harewood Placit 1. Joan. Rot. 10. in D. Monstr le Droit 35. F. 1. * Rivers or Red●ers * Rivers or Red●ers Gascoignes Wetherby Tadcaster Calcaria Calcarienses De Decurionibu L. 27. The Romane language in Provinces Augustin lib. 19 de Civitate Dei Itinerarium T. Edes The river Nid Rippley Knarsborrow Castle Dropping well A Well turning wood into stone Wakeman Saint Wilfrides Needle Pyramides Divels bolts Is-Urium Aldborrow i. Old Borrow Eboracum Yorke Fosse-river The Manour That Victor whom Andre● Scot set forth of late Severus The Temple of Bellona L.I.C. Constantius Constantine the Great Vincentii Speculum historiale Scotland in times past subject to the Archbishop of Yorke See in Scotland A Library Flaccus Alcwinus or Albinus flourished anno 780. The sixty six Archbishop Alfred of B●●verley in t●● Library of 〈◊〉 Lord Burg●● Treasurer 〈◊〉 England Decimatio● Execution 〈◊〉 very tenth 〈◊〉 Commentar of Pope Pius Lib. prim The Councell established in the North. Bishops Thorpe Cawood L. Knivet East-riding Montferrant Historie of Meaux * de Malolacu Battlebridge Howden Metham Abus Humber● Bede * Gods Church or habitation Drifeild Beverley Betnatia The life of John of Beverley Pat. 5. H. 4. Hull river The Register of Meaux Abbay Cottingham Estotevill Wake Kingston upon Hull Placit Anno. 44. Edw. 3. Ebo● 24. * Pro Vaccariis Beycariis De la Pole Cl. 5. E.R. 3. M. 28. Valectus or Valettus I. Tisius Ocellum Holdernesse Headon Praetorium Patrington Winsted Barons de Rosse Ravenspur and Ravens-burg Kelnsey Sisters Kirkes Constable Sinus salutari● Suerby Gabrantovici Flamborrough-head Flamborough Constable de Flamborough Vipseys waters Wolves Earles of Aumarle and Holdernesse Fitz. Odo An ancient Genealogy or pedigree Cr●ssu● Gibbosus North Riding Scarborrough Castle See Dier 144. The gainfull fishing for Herrings Hexameron lib. 5. cap. 80. The River Teise Robbin Hoods Bay Dunum Dunsley Whitby Stony Serpents of Hildas Geese falling downe Duke Wade from whom th● families of the Wades derive * Mauley Moul grave Castle Barons of Mauley Geat Gagates * Others are opinion that our pit cole o● stone cole wa● the old Gagates Cliveland Brius of Skelton Barons Falconberg Yare Stokesley Gisburgh Onusbery hill or Rosebery-Topping The History of Canterbury Praerogativae Reg. 17. Ed. 2. 17. Hen. 6. Bromfleet Lord Vescy Escaetria ● Edw. 2 n. 63. Barons Vescy * Mon●●uli The Vescies coate of Armes Matth. Paris M.S. Mowbraie In other places he is named De Fronte-bovis The Register of Fountains Abbay Fair-fax Fax A solemne Horse-running North-Al●erton shire Cap. 126. Battaile of Standard Earle of Northumberland slaine by Rebells Earles and Dukes of Yorke Earle of March Parliament 10. Hen. 6. Out of the Rols of the Parliament 39. of Hen. the 6. Warre between the House of Lancaster and Yorke or the red Rose and the white See pag. 570. 1604. He was his sonne in law Copper lead and stone-cole or pit-cole Stone cocles and winkles Hell-beckes Wentsedale The name of Geta rased out Bracchium The statue of Emperour Commodus The great family of the Medcalfes Creifishes Bolton Castle Barons le Scrope Midleham Lords of Midleham Genealogia antiqua Coverham Masham Snath Barons Latimer Tanfeld Marmions Inq. 6. H. 6. Swale a sacred River See pag. 136. Marrick Richmond Gilling Ravenswath Barons Fitz-Hugh Caturactonium Catarrick Catarrick bridge Hornby Fitz-Alan Caldwell Aldburgh Fortè Dia Fortunae Bathea Balineum or Balneum Seneca Stane More Spittle on Stane More Maiden Castle Earles of Richmond Guil. G●mit L. 7 c. 34. Booke of Richmond Fees Register of Swasey Overus de S. Martino is about this time named Earle of Richmond Normandy awarded away from the K.K. of England Robert de Arthois was not Earle of Richmond as Frossard writeth but of Beaumont The booke of Tenures or Fees of Richmond Duke of Richmond Obsidianus lopi Canole cole Saint Cuthberts Patrimony The River Teise or Teisis Stretlham Bowes * Ermin Raby Castle The family of the Nevils See in Westmorland Selaby Barons Coigniers Derlington Hell Kettles Deepe pits Earth-quake Certaine Gentlemen called Sur. Teis i. upon Teis sometime flourished here Gretham Hartlepoole A Promontory in our
BRITAIN OR A CHOROGRAPHICALL DESCRIPTION OF THE MOST flourishing Kingdomes ENGLAND SCOTLAND and IRELAND and the Islands adjoyning out of the depth of ANTIQVITIE BEAVTIFIED WITH MAPPES OF THE severall Shires of ENGLAND VVritten first in Latine by William Camden CLARENCEUX K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick Finally revised amended and enlarged with sundry Additions by the said Author LONDON Printed by F. K. R. Y. and I. L. for GEORGE LATHAM 1637. BRITANNIA SI jactare licet màgnorum munera diuûm Sibique veris fas placere dotibus Cur mihi non videar fortunatissima tellus Digna est malis bona quae parùm novit sua Vltima lanigeris animosa est India lucis Suis superbus est Arabs odoribus Thuriferis gaudet Panchaia dives arenis Ibera flumen terra jactat aureum Aegypto faciunt animos septem ostia Nili Laudata Rheni vina tollunt accola● Laeta nec uberibus sibi displicet Africa glebis Haec portubus superbit illa mercibus At mihi nec fontes nec ditia flumina desunt Sulcive pingues prata nec ridentia Foeta viris foecunda feris foecunda metallis Ne glorier quòd ambiens largas opes Porrigit Oceanus neu quòd nec amicius ullâ Coelum nec aura dulcius spirat plagâ Serus in occiduas mihi Phoebus conditur undas Sororque noctes blanda ducit lucidas Possem ego laudati contemnere vellera Baetis Vbi villus albis mollior bidentibus Et tua non nequeam miracula temnere Memphi Verùm illa màjor justiorque gloria Quòd Latiis quòd sum celebrata Britannia Grails Orbem vetustas quòd vocarit alterum For the easier reading of the English-Saxon words in this Booke I thought good to prefixe heere the Characters of the English Saxon Alphabet A a b b c c d d E E e e f f g g h h i i l l m m n n o o p p q q r r S S s s t t u u ƿ w X X x x y y AE AE ae ae Ð Th ð th þ th and ꝧ that PVELIVS OVIDIVS NASO Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine cunctos Ducit immemores non sinit esse sui BRITAIN OR A CHOROGRAPHICALL DESCRIPTION OF THE MOST flourishing Kingdomes ENGLAND SCOTLAND and IRELAND and the Islands adjoyning out of the depth of ANTIQVITIE BEAVTIFIED WITH MAPPES OF THE severall Shires of ENGLAND VVritten first in Latine by William Camden CLARENCEUX K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick Finally revised amended and enlarged with sundry Additions by the said Author LONDON Printed by F. K. R. Y. and I. L. for GEORGE LATHAM 1637. SERENISSIMO POTENTISSIMOQVE PRINCIPI IACOBO BRITANNIAE MAGNAE FRANCIAE ET HIBERNIAE REGI FIDEI PROPVGNATORI AD AETERNITATEM BRITANNICI NOMINIS IMPERIIQVE NATO PERPETVAE PACIS FVNDATORI PVBLICAE SECVRITATIS AVTHORI GVILIELMVS CAMDENVS MAIESTATI EIVS DEVOTISSIMVS D. D. CONSECRATQVE THE AVTHOR TO The Reader I Hope it shall be to no discredite if I now use againe by way of Preface the same words with a few more that I used twentie foure yeares since in the first edition of this worke Abraham Ortelius the worthy restorer of Ancient Geographic arriving heere in England about thirtie foure yeares past dealt earnestly with mee that I would illustrate this Isle of BRITAINE or as he said that I would restore antiquitie to Britaine and Britaine to his antiquitie which was as I understood that I would renew ancientrie enlighten obscuritie cleare doubts and recall home Veritie by way of recovery which the negligence of writers and credulity of the common sort had in a manner prescribed and utterly banished from amongst us A painfull matter I assure you and more than difficult wherein what toyle is to be taken as no man thinketh so no man believeth but hee that hath made the triall Neverthelesse how much the difficultie discouraged mee from it so much the glory of my country encouraged me to undertake it So while at one and the same time I was fearefull to undergoe the burthen and yet desirous to doe some service to my Country I found two different affections Feare and Boldnesse I know not how conjoyned in me Notwithstanding by the most gracious direction of the ALMIGHTY taking INDVSTRY for my consort I adventured upon it and with all my studie care cogitation continuall meditation paine and travaile I imploied my selfe thereunto when I had any spare time I made search after the Etymologie of Britain the first Inhabitants timorously neither in so doubtfull a matter have I affirmed ought confidently For I am not ignorant that the first originals of nations are obscure by reason of their profound antiquitie as things which are seene very deepe and far remote like as the courses the reaches the confluencies the out-lets of great rivers are wel knowne yet their first fountaines and heads lie commonly unknown I have succinctly run over the Romans government in Britain and the inundation of forraigne people thereinto what they were and from whence they came I have traced out the ancient divisions of these Kingdomes I have summarily specified the states and judiciall Courts of the same In the severall Counties I have compendiously set downe the limits and yet not exactly by pearch and pole to breed questions what is the nature of the soile which were places of greatest antiquitie who have beene the Dukes Marquesses Earles Vicounts Barons and some of the most signall and ancient families therein for who can particulate all What I have performed I leave to men of judgement But time the most sound and sincere witnes will give the truest information when envy which persecuteth the living shall have her mouth stopped Thus much give me leave to say that I have in no wise neglected such things as are most materiall to search and sift out the Truth I have attained to some skill of the most ancient British and English-Saxon tongues I have travailed over all England for the most part I have conferred with most skilfull observers in each country I have studiously read over our owne country writers old and new all Greeke and Latine authors which have once made mention of Britaine I have had conference with learned men in other parts of Christendome I have been diligent in the Records of this Realme I have looked into most Libraries Registers and memorials of Churches Cities and Corporations I have pored upon many an old Rowle and Evidence and produced their testimonie as beyond all exception when the cause required in their very own words although barbarous they be that the honour of veritie might in no wise be impeached For all this I may be censured unadvised and scant modest who being but of the lowest fourme in the schoole of Antiquitie where I might well have lurked in obscuritie have adventured as a scribler upon the stage in this learned age amidst the diversities of
the Latins Minium in the name of Acliminius King Cinobelinus his sonne no man I hope will stand against mee Moreover Rufina that most learned British Lady tooke that name of the colour Rufus that is sad r●d like as Albane the first martyr in Britaine of Albus that is White And if any one that is skilfull in the old British tongue would examine the rest of British names which in the ancient Writers are not past foure or five more in all wee may well suppose that he shall find in those names as few as they be some signification of a colour Neither must we omit this observation that the commonest names at this day among the Britans Gwin Du Goch Lhuid were imposed upon them from the white blacke red russet or tawny colour So that now it may bee thought no such wonder that the whole nation it selfe drew the denomination from painting considering verily that they in generall painted themselves and the very Inhabitants both in times past and also in these our daies imposed upon themselves their names of Colours But now to the matter if haply all this hath beene beside the matter This also is certaine that in stories a Britaine is called in the British tongue Brithon I care not for the note of aspiration seeing that the Britaine 's who as Chrysostome saith had a hissing or lisping pronuntiation delight in aspirations which the Latines have carefully avoided Now as Brito came of Brith so did Britannia also in my opinion Britannia saith Isidore tooke that name from a word of the owne nation For what time as the most ancient Greeks and these were they that first gave the Island that name sailing still along the shore as Eratosthenes saith either as rovers or as merchants travailed unto nations most remote and disjoyned farre asunder and learned either from the Inhabitants themselves or else of the Gaules who spake the same tongue that this nation was called Brith and Brithon then they unto the word BRITH added TANIA which as we find in the Greek Glossaries betokeneth in Greek a region and thereof they made a compound name 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is the Britons-land for which they have written false 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 But Lucretius and Caesar the first Latines that made mention thereof more truely Britannia That this is so I doe the more firmely believe because that besides our Britaine a man shall not find over the face of the whole earth above three countries of any account and largenesse which end in the termination TANIA and those verily lying in this west part of the world namely MAVRITANIA LVSITANIA and AQVITANIA Which names I doubt not but the Greeks made and delivered to the Latines as who first discovered and surveied these lands For of Mauri they framed Mauritania as one would say the countrey of the Mauri which the home-bred people of that land as Strabo witnesseth called Numidia of Lusus the sonne of Liber Lusitania as it were the land of Lusius and Aquitania perhaps ab aquis that is of waters as Ivo Carnotensis is of opinion being a region seated upon waters in which sense as Plinie writeth it was before time named Armorica that is coasting upon the sea As for Turditania and Bastitania names of smaller countries they may hereto also be reduced which likewise were in this westerne tract to wit in Spaine and may seeme to signifie as much as the regions of the Turdi and the Basti Neither is it a strange and new thing that a denomination should be compounded of a forrein and a Greek word put together Names are compounded saith Quintilian either of our own that is Latine and of a strange word put together as Biclinium that is a roome with two beds or two tables and contrariwise as Epitogium that is a garment worne upon a gowne Anticato that is a book written against Cato or of two forrein words joyned in one as Epirrhedium a kind of wagon And this maner of composition is most usuall in the names of countries Came not Ireland by composition of the Irish word Erin and the English word Land Did not Angleterre that is England grow together of an English and of a French word and did not Franclond for so our Saxons named Francia or France proceed from a French and Saxon word Came not Poleland likewise from a Polonian word which among them betokeneth a plaine and a Germane Lastly was not Danmarch compounded of a Danish word and the Duch March which signifieth a bound or limit But in so plaine and evident a matter I will not use any more words Neither have we cause to wonder at this Greeke addition TANIA seeing that S. Hierome in his questions upon Genesis proveth out of most ancient authors that the Greeks inhabited along the sea coasts and Isles of Europe throughout as far as to this our Island Let us read saith he Varroes bookes of Antiquities and those of Sisinius Capito as also the Greeke writer Phlegon with the rest of the great learned men and we shall see all the Islands well neere and all the sea coasts of the whole world yea and the lands neere unto the sea to have beene taken up with Greeke Inhabitants who as I said before from the mountaines Amanus and Taurus even to the British Ocean possessed all the parts along the sea side And verily that the Greeks arrived in this our region viewed and considered well the scite and nature thereof there will be no doubt and question made if we observe what Athenaeus hath written concerning Phileas Taurominites of whom more anon who was in Britaine in the clx yeare before Caesars comming if we call to remembrance the Altar with an Inscription Vnto Vlysses in Greek letters and lastly if we marke what Pytheas before the time of the Romans time hath delivered in writing as touching the distance of Thule from Britaine For who had ever discovered unto the Greeks Britaine Thule the Belgicke countries and their sea coasts especially if the Greeks ships had not entred the British and German Ocean yea and related the description thereof unto their Geographers Had Pytheas thinke you come to the knowledge of sixe daies sailing beyond Britaine unlesse some of the Greeks had shewed the same Who ever told them of Scandia Burgos and Nerigon out of which men may saile into Thule And these names seeme to have been better knowne unto the most ancient Greeks than either to Plinie or to any Roman Whereupon Mela testifieth That Thule was much mentioned and renowned in Greek letters and Plinie likewise writeth thus Britaine an Island famous in the monuments and records both of the Greeks and of us By this meanes therefore so many Greek words have crept into the British French withall into the Belgicke or low-Dutch language And if Lazarus Bayfius and Budaeus do make their vant and glory in this that their Frenchmen have beene of
their Charter or Patent We give and grant the Name Title State Stile Place Seat Preheminence Honour Authoritie and Dignitie of a Duke to N. and by the cincture of a Sword and imposition of a Cap and Coronet of gold upon his head as also by delivering unto him a verge of gold we doe really invest A MARQVESSE that is if you consider the very nature of the word a Governour of the Marches hath the next placec of honour after a Duke This Title came to us but of late daies and was not bestowed upon any one before the time of King Richard the Second For hee made his minion Robert Vere who was highly in his favour Marquesse of Dublin and then it began with us to be a title of honour F●r before time those that governed the Marches were commonly called Lord Marchers and not Marquesses as now we terme them Henceforth they were created by the King by cincture of the Sword and the imposition of the Cap of honor and dignitie with the Coronet as also by delivery of a Charter or writing Neither will I think it much to relate here that which is found recorded in the Parliament Rols When Iohn de Beaufort from beeing Earle of Sommerset was by Richard the Second created Marquesse Dorset and afterwards by Henrie the Fourth deprived of that title what time as the Commons of England made humble suit in Parliament to the King that hee would restore unto him the title of Marquesse which he had lost he opposed himselfe against that petition and openly said That it was a new dignitie and altogether unknowne to his Ancestours and therefore hee neither craved it nor in any wise would accept of it Earles called in Latine Comites are ranged in the third place and may seeme to have come unto us from our Ancestours the Germans For they in times past as Cornelius Tacitus writeth had their Comites Who should alwaies give attendance upon their Princes and bee at hand in matters of counsell and authoritie But others thinke that they came from the Romans to us as also to the Franks or French For the Emperours when as the Empire was growne now to the full strength began to have about them a certaine privie Counsell which was called Caesaris Comitatus and then those whose counsell they used in warre and peace were termed Comites whence it is that in ancient Inscriptions wee find oftentimes COMITI IMPP. And in few yeares the name of Comes grew so rife that it was given to all Officers and Magistrates that observed or gave attendance upon the said sacred or privie Counsel or that came out of it and from hence afterward the name extended to all those which were the Provosts or Over-seers of any matters of state And Suidas defineth Comes to be The ruler of the people as Cuiacius hath taught us who also teacheth us that before Constantine the Great the name of Comes was not in use to signifie any honour But he when he altered the forme of the Roman Empire by new distinctions and endevored to oblige many unto him with his benefits and them to advance unto honour ordained first the title of Comes without any function or government at all to be a title of dignitie and this Comes had a certaine power and priviledge for to accompanie the Prince not only when hee went abroad but in his palace also in his privie chamber and secret roomes to have libertie likewise to be present at his Table and private speeches And hereupon it is that wee read thus in Epiphanius 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Who so obtained of the King the Dignitie of Comites At length to them which were beholden unto him for this honourable preferment hee granted other dignities with charge and againe upon those that were in place of Magistracie and executed any office of State either at home or abroad he bestowed that title of honour Comes Domesticorum L. Great Master of the Houshold Comes sacrarum largitionum L. High Treasurer Comes sacrae vestis Master of the Wardrobe Comes Stabuli Master of the Horse Comes Thesauri Treasurer Comes Orientis Lieutenant of the East Comes Britanniae Comes Africae c. Herehence it came that ever since the name of Comes imported Dignitie and authoritie or government at the first temporarie afterward for terme of life Moreover in processe of time when the Empire of the Romans became rent into many kingdomes this title yet was retained and our English-Saxons called them in Latine Comites and Consules whom in their owne language they named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and the very same the Danes termed in their tongue Eorlas that is Honourable as Ethelward writeth by which name somewhat mollified they are called of us at this day Earles And verily for a long time they were knowne by this name simply at length with addition also of the place over which they were put in authoritie Neither as yet descended this honour to the next heire by inheritance Where by the way thus much I note that the first hereditarie Earles in France were the Earles of Britaine But when William of Normandy had made conquest of this Land and seated himselfe in the absolute government of this Kingdome Earles began to bee Feudall Hereditarie and Patrimoniall that is By fee or Tenure by service by inheritance and by Lands who also as it appeareth in Doomesday-booke were simply without any addition at all named Earles as Comes Hugo Comes Alanus Comes Rogerus Earle Hugh Earle Alan Earle Roger c. Afterwards as wee may see in ancient Charters Earles were created with the name of a place joyned unto them and the third pennie of the Shire was assigned unto them As for example Mawd the Empresse daughter and heire to K. Henry the First created an Earle in these words as appeareth in the very Charter which I have I Mawd daughter of K. Henry and Ladie of the Englishmen doe give and grant unto Geffrey de Magnavil for his service to his heires after him by right of inheritance to be Earle of Essex to have the third pennie out of the Sheriffs Court issuing out of all pleas as an Earle should have through his Countie in all things And this is the most ancient Charter that hitherto I have seen of an Earles creation Likewise Henry the Second King of England her sonne created an Earle by these words Know yee that wee have made Hugh Bigod Earle of Norfolk to wit of the third pennie of Norwic and Norfolc as freely as any Earle of England holdeth his Countie Which words an old booke of Battaile Abbey expoundeth thus An usuall and ancient custome it was throughout all England that the Earles should have the third pennie to themselves of the Provinces whereof they tooke the name and were called Earles Semblably another booke without name more plainly The Shire or Countie hath the name of
fore-token of justice having the knot of white silke made in forme of a crosse with an hood upon their left shoulder But of these complements which my purpose was not to prosecute in particular this may bee thought sufficient if not superfluous Now as touching those Knights who simply without any addition bee called Knights and howsoever they are in order ranged last yet by institution they be first and of greatest Antiquitie For as the Romans a gowned nation gave unto them that were entring into mans estate a virile and plaine gowne without welt or gard even so the Germans our Ancestors bestowed upon their young men whom they judged meet for to manage armes armour and weapons Which Cornelius Tacitus will informe you of in these words of his The manner was not for any one to take armes in hand before the State allowed him as sufficient for Martiall service And then in the very assembly of Counsell either some one of the Princes or the father of the young man or one of his kinsfolke furnish him with a shield and a javelin This with them standeth in stead of a virile gowne this is the first honour done to youth before this they seeme to bee but part of a private house but now within a while members of the Common-weale And seeing that such military young men they termed in their language as we in ours Knechts from them I deeme the originall both of name and institution also ought to be fetched This was the first and most simple manner of creating a Knight this the Lombards this the Frankes this our countrymen all descended out of Germanie in old time used Paulus Diaconus reporteth thus among the Lombards This is the Custome that the Kings sonne dineth not with his father unlesse hee receive Armes before from some King of a forraine nation The Annals of France record that the Kings of the Franks gave armes unto their sonnes and to others and girded them with a sword yea and our Aelfred as William of Malmesburie witnesseth when he dubbed Athelstan his nephew Knight being a child of great hope gave him a scarlet mantle a belt or girdle set with precious stones and a Saxon-sword with a golden scabberd Afterwards when as religion had possessed mens minds so as that they thought nothing well fortunately done but what came from Church-men our Ancestors a little before the Normans comming received the Sword at their hands And this Ingulphus who lived in those daies sheweth in these words He that was to be cōsecrated unto lawfull warfare should the evening before with a contrite heart make confession of his sinnes unto the Bishop Abbat Monke or Priest and being absolved give himselfe to prayer and lodge all night in the Church and when hee was to heare divine service the morrow after offer his sword upon the Altar and after the Gospel the Priest was to pu● the sword first hallowed upon the Knights neck with his Benediction and so when hee had heard Masse againe and received the Sacrament he became a lawfull Knight Neither grew this custome out of use streight waies under the Normans For John of Sarisburie writeth in his Polycraticon thus A solemne Custome was taken up and used that the very day when any one was to be honoured with the girdle of knighthood hee should solemnly goe to Church and by laying and offering his Sword upon the Altar vow himselfe as it were by making a solemne profession to the service of the Altar that is to say promise perpetuall service and obsequious dutie unto the Lord. Peter also of Blois writeth thus At this day young Knights and souldiers receive their Swords from the Altar that they might professe themselves Sonnes of the Church and to have taken the Sword for defence of the poore for punishment and revenge of malefactors and delivery of their Country But in processe of time saith he it is turned cleane contrary For in these daies since they are become adorned with the Knights cincture presently they arise against the Annointed of the Lord and rage upon the patrimonie of Christ crucified And as for this ceremonie that they would be girt with a Sword it may seeme no doubt to have proceeded from the militarie discipline of the Romans because as they denied it unlawfull to fight with their enemie before they were bound to their militarie oath by a drawn sword even so our Forefathers thought they might not go to warfare lawfully before they were by this ceremonie lawfully authorised according to which wee reade that William Rufus King of England was dubbed Knight by Lanfranke the Archbishop But this custome by little and little grew to disuse since the time that the Normans as Ingulphus writeth laughed and scorned at it and in a Synode at Westminster An. 1102. a Canon passed That no Abbats should dubbe Knights which some notwithstanding expound thus That Abbats should grant no lands of the Church to be held by Knights service or in Knights fee or service Afterwards Kings were wont to send their sonnes unto the neighbour Princes to receive Knighthood at their hands thus was our K. Henrie the Second sent unto David King of the Scots and Malcolme King of Scots unto our Henry the Second and our Edward the first unto the King of Castile to take of them Militarie or Virile armes for these termes and phrases they used in that age for the creation of a Knight Then it was also that besides the sword and girdle gilt spurres were added for more ornament whereupon at this day they are called in Latin Equites aurati Moreover they had the priviledge to weare use a signet for before they were dubbed knights as I gather out of Abendon Booke it was not lawfull to use a seale Which writing quoth he Richard Earle of Chester purposed to signe with the seale of his mother Ermentrud considering that all Letters which he directed for as yet he had not taken the Militarie girdle were made up and closed within his mothers signet In the age ensuing knights as it may be well collected were made by their wealth and state of living For they which had a great knights Fee that is if wee may beleeve old records 680. akers of land claimed as their right the ornaments and badges of knighthood Nay rather under Henry the Third they were compelled after a sort to be knights as many as in revenues of their lands might dispend fifteen pounds by the yeare so as now it seemed a title of burden rather than of honour In the yeare 1256. there went out an edict from the King by vertue whereof commandement was given proclamation made throughout the Realme that whosoever had fifteen pounds in land and above should be dight in his armes and endowed with knighthood to the end that England as well as Italie might be strengthned with Chivalrie and they that would not or were not able to maintaine the honour
differences semblably they did among us and began first at Edward the First his children But whither am I carried away from my purposed matter as forgetting my selfe in the delight I take of mine owne studie and profession When Cornwall was thus reverted unto the Crowne King Edward the Second who had received from his father faire lands and possessions here bestowed the title of Earle of Cornwall upon Piers Gaveston a Gascon who had ensnared his youth by the allurements of corrupt life But when as hee for corrupting the Prince and for other heinous crimes was by the Nobles intercepted and beheaded there succeeded him Iohn of Eltham a younger sonne of Edward the Second advanced thereto by his brother Edward the Third who dying young and without issue also Edward the Third erected Cornwall into a Dukedome and invested Edward his sonne a Prince most accomplished with martiall prowesse in the yeare of Christ 1336. Duke of Cornwall by a wreath on his head a Ring upon his finger and a silver verge Since which time that I may note so much under warrant of record let the skilfull Lawyers judge thereof the King of Englands eldest sonne is reputed Duke of Cornwall by birth and by vertue of a speciall Act the very first day of his nativitie is presumed and taken to be of full and perfect age so that he may sue that day for his liverie of the said Dukedome and ought by right to obtaine the same as well as if hee had beene full one and twentie yeares old and he hath his Royalties in certaine actions in Stannary matters in wracks at sea customes c. yea and divers ministers or officers assigned unto him for these and such like matters But more plainly and fully instructed are we in these points by Richard Carew of Anthony a Gentleman innobled no lesse in regard of his Parentage and descent than for his vertue and learning who hath published and perfected the description of this countrey more at large and not in a slight and meane manner whom I must needs acknowledge to have given me much light herein There be in this Countie Parishes 161. DEVONIAE Comitatus Vulgo Den Shyre quam olim DANMONII Populi Incoluerunt DENSHIRE THe neerer or hithermore region of the Danmonians that I speake of is now commonly called Denshire by the Cornish-Britaines Deuinan and by the Welsh Britaines Duffneint that is Low valleies for that the people dwell for the most part beneath in vales by the English Saxons Deven 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 whereof grew the Latine name Devonia and by that contraction which the vulgar people useth Denshire and not of the Danes as some smatterers of meane knowledge most stifly maintaine a countrey which as it extendeth it selfe both waies wider than Cornwall so is it harborous on either side with more commodious Havens no lesse inriched with tin mines especially West-ward garnished with pleasanter medowes sightly with greater store of woods and passing well replenished with Townes and buildings But the soile in some places againe is as leane and barren which not withstanding yieldeth fruit to the Husbandman plenteously so that he be skilfull in husbandry and both can take paines and be able withall to defray the cost Neither is there in all England almost any place where the ground requireth greater charges For in most parts thereof it groweth in manner barren if it be not overstrewed and mingled with a certaine sand from the Sea which is of great efficacie to procure fertilitie by quickning as it were and giving life unto the glebe and therefore in places far from the shore it is bought at a deare rate In describing of this region I will first travell over the West-side as the river Tamara runneth along and then the South coast which bordereth on the Ocean From whence by the Easterne bounds where it confineth upon Dorset Sommerset shires I will returne backe unto the Northern which is hemmed in with the Severne Sea Tamar which divideth these two shires first on this part receiveth into it from the East a rivelet called Lid which passeth by Coriton and K. Sidenham small townlets but which have given surnames to ancient and worshipfull families to Lidstow a little mercate Towne and Lidford now a small village but in ancient time a famous Towne which in the yeare 997. was most grievously shaken and dispoiled by the furious rage of the Danes which as it is written in that booke whereby William the First tooke the survey and value of England was not wont to be rated and asceased at any other time nor otherwise than London was That little river Lid here at the bridge gathered into a streight and pent in between rocks runneth downe amaine and holloweth the ground daily more and more so deepe that his water is not seene only a roaring noise is heard to the great wonder of those that passe over Beneath it Tamar receiveth Teave a little river on which Teavistok commonly called Tavistoke flourisheth a town in times past famous for the Abbey there which Ordulph the son of Ordgare Earle of Devonshire admonished by a vision from heaven built about the yeare of our Saviour Christ Dcccclxj. a place as William of Malmesburie describeth it Pleasant in regard of the groves standing so conveniently about it and of the plenteous fishing there for the handsome and uniforme building also of the Church for the sewers from the river passing downe along by the houses of office which runne with such a force of their owne that they carry away with them all the superfluitie they find Saint Rumon is much spoked of and lies as Bishop there There is to be seene also in the same Abbey the Sepulchre of that Ordgar before named and the huge bignesse of his sonnes tomb who was called Ordulph is thought to be a rare thing worth the sight for he was a man of a mighty stature giant like and of exceeding great strength as who was able to burst in sunder the bars of great gates and to stride over the rivelet there ten foote broad if ye list to believe the said William But scarcely had this Abbey stood thirty yeare after it was first founded when the Danes in their spoyling rage burnt it to the ground yet it flourished againe and by a laudable ordinance lectures therein were kept of our ancient language I meane the English Saxon tongue which continued even to our fathers daies for feare lest the said language a thing that now is well neere come to passe should be forgotten Tamar having thus received the Teave draweth now very neere unto his mouth where he and the river Plime together fall into the Ocean of which river the Towne adjoyning to it is called Plimmouth sometime named Sutton and seemeth to have consisted of two parts For we read in the Parliamentary Acts of Sutton Vautort and Sutton Prior because it belonged partly to the family of the
East and West flourished sometime in great honour It paid no tribute as we find in Doomesday the survey-survey-book of England but when Exceter paid and then it yielded xl d. and did service if any expedition marched by land or went by sea and Totnes Barnestaple and Lidford served and paid as much as Exceter King John granted unto it power to chuse a Major for the chiefe Magistrate Edward the First enriched it with sundry liberties and about that time it was fortified with a Castle by the Zouches as the Inhabitants are perswaded The possession it was in times past of one Iudaël surnamed De Totnais afterwards of William Briwer a right noble personage by one of whose daughters it came to the Breoses and from them by a daughter likewise to George De Cantelupo Lord of Abergeveny whose sister Melicent wedded unto Eudo De la Zouch brought it in by her marriage to the family of the Barons La Zouches and theirs it was untill that John Lord Zouch being attaint and proscribed because hee tooke part with King Richard the Third Henry the Seventh bestowed it franckly as I have heard say upon Peter Edgecombe a noble and wise gentleman Adjoyning to this towne is Berie Pomerie so called of the Pomeries a right noble house in those parts which a little more Eastward and somewhat farther from the river side had a very proper Castle of their owne These derive their pedigree from Radulph Pomerie who in William Conquerors time held Wich Dunwinesdon Brawerdine Pudeford Horewood Toriland Helecom and this Berie c. Of this Totnes the strond or shore adjoyning was called in old time Totonese where as the British Historie saith Brutus the founder of the British nation first landed and Havillanus as a Poet relying thereon versified in this wise Inde dato cursu Brutus comitatus Achate Gallorum spoliis cumulatis navibus aequor Exarat superis auraque faventibus usus Littora foelices intrat Totonesia portus Thence hoising sailes with Gaulish spoiles the fleet fraight sea doth take Our Brutus with his trustiest friend and through waves way doth make The Gods lookt cheerefull on his course the wind he had at will At Totnesse shore that happy haven arriv'd he and stood still But that river Dert whereof I spake having passed beyond Totnes bridge at which it leaveth whole heape of sands brought downe by his streame from out of the Tin mines hath for prospect on both sides nothing but fruitfull fields untill hee come all weary with his long course to his mouth over which upon an hill reaching forth in length standeth Dertmouth a Port Towne by reason of the commodious haven defended with two Castles much frequented with Merchants and furnished with very good shipping A Major it hath by the grant of King Edward the Third For Lords it acknowledged long since the Zouches Nicolas of Teukesbury and the Brients according to the variable change of the times and hath sundry times defended it selfe stoutly against the French but especially in the yeare of Christ 1404. Monsieur De Castell a Frenchman who by his men of warre and piracies had stopped all intercourse of traffique in those parts and burnt Plimmouth whiles hee invaded this place was by women and country people intercepted and slaine with all his companie And heere I must not passe over in silence Stoke Fleming that lieth hard by and which taking that name of a noble man of Flanders sometime Lord thereof came by the daughter of Mohun to the Carewes From this place as the shore giveth backe Northward the sea followeth in upon it and by that meanes with a large and spacious creeke which taketh about ten miles in circuit maketh a bay called now Torbay a very safe rode and harbour for ships when the South-west wind is aloft and hath fast by it a little village so called where sometime the Briewrs dwelt and built a religious house who in the daies of King Richard the First and King John were men of great renowne and revenue and afterward the habitation it was of the Wakes Neere unto it is Cockington where the family of the Caries a different house from that of the Carewes hath flourished a long time in great honour and estimation out of which the Barons of Hunsdon concerning whom I will speake more in due place are descended A little higher appeares in sight Hacombe the habitation in old time of Sir Iordan Fitz-Stephen Knight surnamed of this place de Hacombe by whose daughter and heire Cecilie it came into the familie of the Archdeacons From which likewise by Hugh Courtney in processe of time it was devolved upon the Carewes whose house in these parts is reputed very worshipfull and spred into many branches For Jane the daugther of the said Hugh and heire to her mother being joyned in mariage to Nicolas Baron Carew brought him many children and when the eldest of them named Thomas used not his mother with such dutifull respect as a sonne ought she made a conveyance of that great and wealthy inheritance to her three younger sonnes from whom those three families of the Carews de Hacombe Anthony and Bery are sprung and to Iohn Vere a sonne that she had by a second husband from whom the Earles of Oxford are issued Then meet you with Teignemouth a little village at the mouth of the river Teigne whereof it hath also the name where the Danes that were sent before to discover the scituation of Britaine and to sound the landing places being first set a shore about the yeare of Salvation 800. and having slaine the governour of the place tooke it as an ominous good token of future victorie which indeed afterward they followed with extreme crueltie through the whole Island More inward neere unto the source of the river Teigne is Chegford seated where flourished sometime the noble family of the Prows then Chidley which gave the name to that great house and linage of the Chidleyes and next unto the very mouth thereof Bishops Teignton so called because it belonged to the Bishops in which because there was a Sanctuarie Iohn Grandison descended out of Burgundy Bishop of Exceter as presaging what would ensue in future time built a very faire house to the end that his Successors these are the very words of his testament might have a place whereon to leane and lay their heads if happily their Temporalities should be seized into the Kings hands But so farre was it off that his purpose tooke effect that his successors have not onely lost that house but also beene quite desseized now well neere of all the rest About six miles from thence the river Isc whereof Ptolomee maketh mention which the Britaines call Isc and the English-Saxons Ex with a large channell runneth into the Ocean Whether it tooke this name of Iscaw that signifieth in the British tongue Elders trees I wot not Some fetch it from
deed repenting herselfe when it was too late she sought afterward maruellously to wash out that sinfull staine by taking her selfe to the mantle and ring in the habite of an holy Votarie and to building religious houses This Purbeck is called an Isle although it be onely a Demy Island compassed round about with the sea save onely on the West-side For on the East the sea bendeth the bankes inward and breaking in at a very narrow straight betweene the two shores against which a small Isle with a block house called Brensey standeth maketh a broad and wide bay On the North side wherof in the said Biland there standeth over it the towne Poole so as it is wholly environed with waters except it be on the North-side where it closeth with the continent hath one gate and no more leading unto it We may well thinke it so named because that bay aforesaid lying under it in calme weather whē the waters be still resembleth a pond such as we call a poole in our language This of a Sedgeplot of a few fishermens cotages in the last foregoing age grew to be a mercate towne exceeding rich and wealthy beautified also with goodly houses and K. Henry the Sixth by consent of the Parliament granted unto it the priviledges of a port or haven towne which he had taken from Melcomb and licensed the Major thereof to wall it about which worke afterward was begun at the haven by King Richard the Third a Prince who deserved to be rancked among the worst men and the best Kings But ever since that time by what fatall destinie I know not or rather through the idlenesse and sloth of the townesmen it is decaied in so much as for want of Inhabitants the very houses at this day runne to ruine Into the West Angle of this Bay falleth the greatest and most famous river of all this tract commonly called Frome but the English-Saxons as witnesseth Aerius named it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 whereupon perhaps for that this Bay was in old time called Fraumouth the posteritie ensuing rooke the rivers name to be Frome The head thereof is at Eureshot neere unto the West limit of this shire From whence he taketh his course Eastward by Frompton whereto it gave the name and from the North receiveth a little river running downe by Cerne Abbey which Augustine the Apostle of the English nation built when hee had broken there in pieces Heil the Idol of the heathen English-Saxons and chased away the fog of paganish superstition Here was first bred among the religious men as I have read Iohn Morton Cardinall and Archbishop of Canterbury borne at S. Andrews Milborne worthily advanced to so high places for his good service in working Englands happinesse by the union of the two houses of Lancaster and York and of this family there hath issued both R. Bishop of worcester and many gentlemen of very good note in this country and elsewhere Under this somewhat lower the Frau or Frome chuse whether you will maketh an Island and so goeth to see that most ancient towne Dorchester which in Antoninus his Itinerarium is termed DVRNOVARIA that is the river Passage or Ferry and seemeth by Ptolomee to be named untruly in sundry copies DVRNIVM and DVNIVM This is the head Towne of the whole Shire and yet is neither great nor beautifull being long since despoiled of the walles by the Danes who raised as it is thought certaine trenches whereof one is called Maumbury being an acre inditched an other Poundbury somewhat greater and the third a mile off as a Camp with five trenches containing some ten acres called Maiden castle which a man may easily conjecture to have beene a summer station or campe of the Romans But of her antiquitie it sheweth daily expresse tokens namely the Roman causey of the Fosse high way and coine of the Romans both copper and silver found there and especially at Fordington hard by which the common people there call King Dorn his pence whom by some allusion to the name they dreame full sweetly to have beene the founder of the towne It had anciently a castle in that place where the Grey-friers built their Convent out of the ruines thereof and hath now but three parish Churches whereas the compasse of the old towne seemeth to have beene very large But the most grievous hurt that it tooke was when Sueno the Dane had in most outrageous crueltie renewed the Danish warre and Hush the Norman who ruled these countries a man of a persidious and treacherous mind suffered all to be spoiled and harried But in what estate it stood soone after the Normans first comming in take knowledge if it please you out of Domesday booke being the Survey of England In King Edwards daies there were in Dorchester 170. houses and these for all the Kings service discharged themselves and paid according to te● Hides but to the use of Houscarles one marke of silver excepting the customes which pertaine ad firmam noctis that is to the entertainment of the King for one night There were in it two Mint Masters Now there be therein but 82. houses and one hundreth have beene utterly destroyed since the time of Sheriffe Hugh If these termes seeme to be very obscure as Sextus Cecilus said in the like matter impute it not to the fault of the writers but to their ignorance who cannot conceive the meaning From hence Frome runneth by Woodford where in old time Guy Brient a Baron and renowned warriour had a little Castle of his owne which afterward was the habitation of Hugh Stafford of Suthwick by one of whose daughters Inheritrices it came as I have heard to Thomas Strangwaies who being borne in Lancashire and brought hither by the first Marquesse Dorset obtained a great and rich inheritance in these parts and his issue built a very faire house at Milbery Then holdeth hee on his course besides Byndon in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which also had a monasterie where Kinegilsus in the yeare 614. in a doubtfull and dangerous battell vanquished the Britaines Not long since it was the seat of the Lord Marney now it giveth the honourable title of Vicount unto the Lord Thomas Howard Knight of the order of S. George whose father Thomas the second sonne of Thomas Howard the second of that name Duke of Norfolk Queene Elizabeth created Vicount Howard of Bindon when he having matched in marriage with the daughter and heire of Baron Marney was seized heere of a very great inheritance of the Newborows These who were anciently named de Novo Burgo and commonly Newboroughs derive their pedigree from a younger soone of Henry the first Earle of Warwick of the Norman line and held heere Winfrott with the whole Hundred of the gift of King Henry the First per servitium Camerarii these be the words out of the booke of the Offices in Capite de Domino Rege that is by
them have very goodly houses also adjoyning to the Church and all these buildings stand within the close wall severed from the Citie As the Bishop was busied about erecting of Gods house the Citizens likewise for their parts did their best to found the Citie they established their civill government derived rilles and servers of waters into every street and cast a deepe ditch all along that side on which it is not fenced with the running river having obtained licence of Simon the Bishop thus to strengthen and fortifie the same And in such sort grew up this new Salisburie by little an little out of the ruines of old Sorbiodunum that so soone as they by the Kings warrant had turned hither the high-way that leadeth into the West parts it became the second Citie in all this tract passing well inhabited and frequented plentifull of all things especially of fish adorned with a very stately market place wherein standeth their common Hall of timber worke a very beautifull edifice But nothing is there whereof it may so much boast as of Iohn Iowell not long since Bishop there a wonderfull great and deepe Divine a most stout and earnest maintainer of our reformed religion against the adversaries by his learned books Old Sorbiodunum from thence forward decaied more and more and in the raigne of King Henrie the Seventh became utterly desolate so as at this day there remaineth onely a towre or two of the Castle which notwithstanding a long time after the departure of the townesmen from thence was the dwelling house of the Earles of Salisburie and about which in King Edward the Thirds time there arose a memorable controversie and suite For Robert Bishop of Salisburie stirred Milliam Mont acute Earle of Salisburie by vertue of a processe which our Lawyers terme Breve de Recto that is A writ of right for this Castle and hee made answer that hee would defend his right by combat Whereupon at a day appointed the Bishop ●rought forth his champion to the railes or bars of the Lists cl●d in a white garment reaching downe to his mid-leg upon which he had a mandilian or cassocke garnished with the Bishops Armes at whose heeles followed a Knight carrying a staffe and a page with a shield Immediately after the Earle brought in by the hand his owne champion also arraied in the like apparell accompanied with two Knights bearing white staves Now when these Champions were to enter the Lists commanded they were to withdraw themselves aside that their weapons of both parts might be viewed and they searched whether they had any Amulers or Enchantments about them But all on a suddaine unlooked for came the Kings precept to reprive and defer the matter to a further day that the King might loose thereby none of his right Meane while they grew to this composition That the Earle for the summe of 2500. markes paied and received should yield up all his title and interest in the Castle to the Bishop and his successors for ever This Salisburie had long agoe Earles of that name whose pedigree I will derive somewhat farther off and more truly out of the short reports of Lacock Historie William Conqueror of his bounty liberalitie assigned unto Gualter de Evereaux Earle of Rosmar in Normandie faire lands and large possessions in this shire which he left unto Edward named de Sarisburia a younger sonne borne in England like as to Walter his eldest sonne other lands in Normandie with the Title of Earle of Rosmar whose issue within a while after was extinct That Edward of Sarisburie aforesaid flourished in the twentieth yeere of the Conquerours reigne and is often times barely named in the Indiciarie booke of England without the title of Earle His sonne Walter built a a little monasterie at Bradenstocke and there in his old age tooke him to the habit of a Canon or Regular priest after he had first begotten his sonne Patricke the first Earle of Salisburie upon Sibil de Cadurcis This Patricke I say the first Earle in his returne from his pilgrimage at S. Iames of compostella in Spain in the yeere of our Lord 1169. being slaine by one Guy of Lusigniam left William his sonne to succeede who died in King Richard the first his time His onely daughter Ela through the favour of the said King Richard was married to William Long Espee surnamed so of a long sword that he did usually weare a base sonne of King Henrie the second and her marriage honoured him with the title of Earle and her owne coat of Armes be Azur adorned with sixe Lions Ceux This William had a sonne named likewise William Long-Espee against whom King Henrie the Third conceiving great displeasure for that without licence obtained he was gone to serve in the holy land taking the crosse as they termed it upon him took from him both the title of Earle and also the Castle of Salisburie But he holding still his purpose went into Egypt with S. Lewis King of France and neere unto Damiata which the Christians had wonne carrying a brave and valorous minde fighting manfully among the thickkest troops of his enemies died an honorable and glorious death a little before that holy King was unfortunately taken prisoner His sonne named likewise William lived without the title of Earle and begat one onely daughter Margaret who neverthelesse being reputed Countresse of Salisburie became the wife of Henry Lacy Earle of Lincoln unto whom she bare one only daughter Alice wedded to Thomas Earle of Lancaster Who being attainted King Edward the Second seized upon those possessions which she had granted and demised unto her husband out of which King Edward the Third gave way unto Willam Mont-acute Trowbridg Winterbourn Ambresburie and other Lordships in these words So fully and wholly as the Progenitours of Margaret Countesse of Salisbury at any time held the same And even then hee preferred the said William Mont-acute to be Earle of Salisburie and by the cincture of a sword invested him in the said Earledome This William became Lord of the Isle of Mann and begat two sonnes William who succeeded in his Fathers honour and died without issue having unhappily slaine his onely sonne while he trained him at Tilting and Iohn a Knight who died before his brother leaving behind him a sonne named Iohn Earle of Salisburie whom hee had by Margaret daughter and heire of Thomas de Mont-Hermer who being of an unconstant and changeable nature and plotting the destruction of King Henrie the Fourth was in the yeare of our Lord 1400. killed at Chichester and attainted afterwards of high treason Howbeit his sonne Thomas was fully restored a man worthy to be ranged with the bravest Captaines and Commanders whether you respect paines taking in his affaires industrie in action or expedition in dispatch who lying at the siege before Orleance in France was with a bullet levelled out of a great piece of Ordnance wounded in the yeare 1428. and thereof died
and exposed to the enemie King Henrie the Eighth began to strengthen it with forts for in that foreland or promontorie shooting farre into the sea From whence we have the shortest cut into the Isle of Wight hee built Hurst Castle which commandeth sea ward every way And more toward the East hee set up also another fortresse or blockhouse they name it Calshot Castle for Caldshore to defend the entrie of Southhampton Haven as more inwardly on the other are the two Castles of S. Andrew and Netly For heere the shores retiring as it were themselves a great way backe into the land and the Isle of Wight also butting full upon it doe make a very good harbour which Ptolomee calleth The mouth of the river Trisanton as I take it for Traith Anton that is Anton Bay For Ninnius an old writer giveth it almost the same name when he termeth it Trahannon mouth As for the river running into it at this day is called Test it was in the foregoing age as wee reade in the Saints lives named Terstan and in old time Ant or Anton as the townes standing upon it namely Ant port Andover and Hanton in some sort doe testifie So farre am I of pardon me from thinking that it tooke the name of one Hamon a Roman a name not used among Romans who should be there slaine And yet Geffrey of Monmouth telleth such a tale and a Poet likewise his follower who pretily maketh these verses of Hamon Ruit huc illucque ruentem Occupat Arviragus ejusque in margine ripae Amputat ense caput nomen tenet inde perempti Hammonis Portus longumque tenebit in aevum Whiles Hamon rusheth here and there within the thickest ranke Arviragus encountreth him and on the rivers banke With sword in hand strikes of his head the place of him thus slaine Thence forth is named Hamons-Haven and long shall so remaine But upon this Haven standeth South-hanpton a little Citie neeere unto which on the North-east there flourished in old time another of that name which may seeme to be Antonine his CLAVSENTVM by the distance of it as well on the one side from Ringwood as from Venta on the other And as Trisanton in the British language signifieth the Bay of Anton so Glausentum in the same tongue is as much as the Haven of Entum For I have heard that Claudh among the Britans is that which the Graecians call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a forced Haven made by digging and casting up the earth Now that this place was called Hanton and Henton no man needs to doubt seeing in that booke wherein King William the first made a survey of all England this whole shire is expressely named Hanscyre and in some places Hentscyre and the very towne it selfe for the South scituation of it South●hanton What manner of towne that Clausentum was it is hard to say but seated it was in that place where the field is which now they call S. Maries and reached even to the Haven and may seeme also to have taken up the other banke or strand of the river For a little above at Bittern over against it Francis Mills a right honest gentleman there dwelling shewed unto me the rubbish old broken walls and trenches of an ancient castle which carrieth halfe a mile in compasse and at every tide is compassed for three parts of it with water a great breadth The Romane Emperors ancient coines now and then there digged up doe so evidently prove the antiquity thereof that if it were not the Castle of old Clausentum you would judge it to be one of those forts or fences which the Romans planted upon the South coast of the Ocean to represse as Gildas writeth the piracies and depredations of the Saxons When all became wasted by the Danish warres old Hanton also was left as a prey in the yeere of our Lord 980. to be sacked and rifled by them and King William the Conqueror in his time had in it but fourescore men and no more in his demaine But above 200. yeeres since when Edward the Third King of England and Philip Valois bustled for the very Kingdome of France it was fired by the French and burnt to the gound Out of the ashes whereof presently sprung the towne which now is to be seene but situate in a more commodious place betweene two rivers for number of houses and those faire built much renowned for rich Inhabitants concourse of merchants wealthy fenced round about with a double ditch strong wals and turrets standing thicke betweene and for defence of the Haven a right strong Castle it hath of square stone upon a Mount cast up to a great height built by King Richard the Second And afterward King Henrie the Sixt granted to the Major Balives and Burgesses that it should be a Countie by it selfe with other liberties Memorable is that of the most puissant Canutus King of England and of Denmarke by which he in this place repressed a flatterer who bare the King in hand that all things in the Realme were at his will and command He commanded saith Henrie of Huntingdon that his chaire should be set on the shore when the sea began to flow And then in the presence of many said he to the sea as it flowed Thou art part of my Dominion and the ground on which I sit is mine neither was there ever any that durst disobey my commandement and went away free and unpunished Wherefore I charge thee that thou come not upon my land neither that thou wet the clothes or body of thy Lord. But the sea according to his usuall course flowing still without any reverence of his person wet his feet Then he retiring backe said Let all the Inhabitants of the world know that vaine and frivolous is the power of Kings and that none is worthy the name of King but hee to whose command the heaven earth and sea by bond of an evelasting law are subject and obedient and never after that time set hee the crowne upon his head c. Of those two rivers betweene which this South anton standeth that in the West now called Test and in times past Anton as I suppose springing out of the forrest of Chate goeth first to Andover which in the Saxon language is 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The passage or Ferry over And where in the yeare of our salvation 893. Aetheldred King of England when the Danes harried and spoiled his Kingdome on every side to the end that hee might at length refresh and cherish his weakened and wearied countries with sure and quiet peace inserted into his owne familie by way of adoption Aulaf the Dane which not withstanding soone after tooke small or none effect For this great honour done to the barbabrous Dane could not reclaime and stay his minde from rapine and spoyling still From thence it runneth downe and receiveth from the East a brooke passing by Bullingdon in whose parish is a
other publique huntings among the Romans For as the same Strabo writeth they were 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is of a generous kind and framed naturally for hunting Whereupon Nemesianus wrote thus divisa Britannia mittit Veloces nostrique orbis venatibus aptos Though Britaine from this world of ours doth lie secluded farre Swift hounds it sends which for our game most fitly framed are Gratius also of their price and excellencie saith thus Quod freta si Morinûm dubi● refluentia ponto Veneris atque ipsos libeat penetrare Britannos O quanta est merces quantum impendia supra If that to Calice-streights you goe Where tides uncertaine ebbe and flow And list to venture further more Crossing the seas to British shore What meede would come to quite your paines What overdeale beside of gaines Yea and that very dog with us which of the old name Agasaeus we call yet at this day a Gasehound those ancient Greekes both knew and also had in great price And this will Oppian in his first booke of his Cynegeticks tell you in these Greeke verses 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Which Bodine turned into Latine thes Est etiam catuli species indagine clara Corpus huic breve magnifico sed corpore digna Picta Britannorum gens illos effera bello Nutrit Agasaeosque vocat vilissima forma Corporis ut credas parasitos esse latrantes And may be Englished in this wise Stout hounds there are and those of finders kind Of bodie small but doughtie for their deed The painted folke fierce Britans as we find Them Gasehounds call for they with them doe breed In making like house dogs or at a word To lickerous curs that craven at our bord Claudian also touching our Mastives writeth in this sort Magnaque taurorum fracturi colla Britanni And British mastives downe that puls Or breake the necks of sturdy bulls I have too far digressed about dogges yet hope a favourable pardon In this Citie as our owne Historiographers doe report in the time of the Romans was that Constans the Monke who by his father Constantine was first elect Caesar and afterwards Augustus that Constantine I say who upon hope of this name had assumed the Imperiall purple roabe that is usurped the Empire against Honorius For long since as Zosinus recordeth speaking of those times as well in villages as in Cities there were great colledges peopled as it were with Monks who before time ●●ying the light lived scattering heere and there among mountaines woods and forrests all solitary by themselues whereof also they were so called Now of this Colledge wherein the said Constans was those old broken walles which are seene of that thicknesse and strength at the West-gate of the Cathedrall Church may seeme to be the ruines and reliques But this imperiall Monke taken out from hence suffered soone after condigne punishment both for his fathers ambition and also for the contempt of his professed religion During the Heptarchie of the Saxons this Citie albeit once or twice it suffered much calamity and miserie yet it revived and recovered againe yea and became the seat royall of the West-Saxons Kings adorned with magnificent Churches and a Bishops See furnished likewise with six mint houses by King Aethelstane In the Normans time also it flourished very much and in it was erected an office for keeping of all publike records and evidences of the Realme In which prosperous estate it continued a long time but that once or twice it was defaced by misfortune of suddaine fires and in the civill war betweene Stephen and Maude about the Kingdome of England lacked by the unruly and insolent souldiers Whereupon Necham our countriman who lived in that age writeth thus Guintoniam titulis claram gazisque repletam Noverunt veterum tempora prisca patrum Sed tam sacra fames auri jam caecus habendi Vrbibus egregiis parcere nescit amor Our ancestours knew Winchester sometimes a goodly Towne In treasure rich and plentifull in name of great renowne But now for hunger after gold our men so greedy are That even such Cities excellent they know not how to spare But of these losses it recovered it selfe by the helpe of Edward the third who heere appointed the Mart for wooll and cloth which we commonly call the Staple What was the face and outward shew of this Citie in these foregoing times a man can hardly tell considering that as the said Necham writeth Flammis toties gens aliena dedit Hinc facies urbis toties mutata dolorem Praetendit casus nuntia vera sui So many times a nation strange Hath fir'd this towne and made such change That now her face and outward hue Her griefe bewray's and tels full true In these daies of ours it is indifferently well peopled and frequented having water plentie by reason of the River turned and conveighed divers waies into it lying somewhat in length from East to West and containeth about a mile and a halfe in circuit within the walls which open at sixe gates and have every one of them their suburbs reaching forth without a good way On the South side of the West gate there mounteth up an old Castle which oftentimes hath beene besieged but most sore and straightly above the rest what time as Mawd the Empresse held it against King Stephen and at length by a rumour given out that she was dead and causing her selfe to be caried out in a coffin like a course deceived the enemie As concerning that round table there hanging up against the wall which the common sort useth to gaze upon with great admiration as if it had beene King Arthurs table I have nothing to say but this That as a man which vieweth it well may easily perceive it is nothing so ancient as King Arthur For in latter times when for the exercise of armes and feates of warlike prowesse those runnings at tilt and martiall justlings or torneaments were much practised they used such tables least any contention or offence for prioritie of place should through ambition arise among Nobles and Knights assembled together And this was a custome of great antiquitie as it may seeme For the ancient Gaules as Athenaeus writeth were wont to sit about round tables and their Esquires stood at their backes holding their shields About the midst of the citie but more inclining to the South Kenelwalch King of the West-Saxons after the subversion of that Colledge of Monkes which flourished in the Romans time as William of Malmesburie saith First founded to the glory of God the fairest Church that was in those daies in which very place the posteritie afterwards in building of a Cathedrall seate for the Bishop although it were more stately than the first yet followed just in the very same steps In this See there have
answered for him at his Baptisme Then Ceadwalla King of the West-Saxons when the said Edelwalch was slaine and Aruandus the petty King of the Island made away annexed to it the Dominion and in a tragicall and lamentable massacre killed every mothers child almost of the inborne Inhabitants and the fourth part of the Isle to wit as much land as contained 300. Hides hee gave unto Bishop Wilfrid The first that instructed the Islanders in the knowledge of Christian religion But these matters Beda will informe you best writing as he doth in these words After then that Ceadwalla had obtained the kingdome of the Gevissi hee wonne also the Isle of Wight which unto that time had beene wholly given to Idolatrie and then endeavoured what he could to make a generall massacre and tragicall slaughter of all the native Inhabitants thereof and instead of them to plant there people of his owne province binding himselfe with a vow although he was not yet regenerate and become Christened and in case he wonne the Isle he would give unto God a fourth part both of it and also of the whole booty Which vow he so paied as that he offered this Isle unto Wilfrid the Bishop who being of his nation hapened then to come thither be present to the use and glory of God The measure of the same Island according to the English mens estimation is proportionable to one thousand and two hundred hides of land Whereupon the Bishop had possession given him of so much Land as rose to three hundred Hides But hee commended that portion which hee received unto one of his Clarkes named Bernwin and his sisters sonne he was giving unto him a priest named Hildila for to minister unto all that were desirous of salvation the word and laver of life Where I thinke it not good to passe over in silence how for the first fruits as one would say of those who of the same Isle were saved by their beleife two young children brethren of the Royall bloud to wit the sonnes of Arvandus King of the Isle were by the especiall favour of GOD crowned with martyrdome For when the enemies approached hard unto the Island these children slipt secretly out of the Isle and were remo●ved into the province next adjoyning where being brought to a place called Ad Lapidem when they had committed themselves upon trust to be hidden from the face of the King that was conquerour betraied they were and commanded to be killed Which when a certaine Abbat and Priest named Cynbreth heard who not farre from thence had his monasterie in a place named Reodford that is the Ford of reed hee came unto the King who then in those parts lay secretly at cure of those wounds which hee had received whiles hee fought in the Isle of Wight and requested of him that if there were no remedie but that the children must bee murthered they might yet bee first taught the Sacraments of Christian faith before their death The King granted his petition and hee then having catechised them in the word of truth and bathed them in the fount of salvation assured them of their entrance into the everlasting Kingdome of heaven And so within a while after when the executioner called instantly for them they joyfully suffered that temporall death of the body by which they made no doubt of their passe unto the eternall life of their soules In this order and manner therefore after all the Provinces of Britaine had embraced the faith of Christ the Isle of Wight also received the same in which notwithstanding for the calamitie and trouble of forraine subjection no man tooke the degree of Ministerie and See Episcopall before Daniell who at this day is the Bishop of the West Saxons and the Gevissj Thus much Beda From this time forward our writers for a great while have not one word of Wight unto the yeare of our Lord one thousand sixtie six in which Tostie Hing Haralds brother with certaine men of warre and Rovers ships out of Flanders in hatred of his brother invaded it and after he had compelled the Islanders to pay him tribute departed Some few yeares after as we read in the old booke of Cares broke Priorie which Master Robert Glover Somerset shewed me who carried as it were the Sunne light of ancient Genealogies and Pedigrees in his hand Like as saith this booke William the Bastard conquered England even so William Fitz Osbern his Mareschal and Earle of Hereford conquered the Isle of Wight and was the first Lord of Wight Long after this the Frenchmen in the yeare 1377. came suddenly at unawares under saile invaded and spoiled it and the same French in the yeare 1403. gave the like attempt but in vaine For valiantly they were drived from landing even as in our fathers daies when the French Gallies set one or two small cottages on fire and went their way As touching the Lords of this Isle after that William Fitz-Osbern was forth-with slaine in the warre of Flanders and his sonne Roger outlawed and driven unto exile it fell into the Kings hands and Henrie the First King of England gave it unto Richard Ridvers otherwise called Redvers and de Ripariis Earle of Denshire and withall the Fee or Inheritance of the Towne Christ-Church Where like as at Caresbroke that Richard built certaine Fortresses but Baldwin his sonne in the troublesome time of King Stephen when there were in England so many Tyrants as there were Lords of Forts and Castles who tooke upon them every one to stampe money and challenged other rights of Regall Majestie was by Stephen disseized and expelled from hence Howbeit his posteritie recovered their ancient right whose Genealogie wee have already put downe when wee treated of the Earles of Denshire But in the end Isabell widow to William de Fortibus Earle of Albemarle and Holdernesse sister and heire of Baldwin the last Earle of Devonshire of that house after much intreatie was overcome to make over by charter all her right and interest and to settle it upon King Edward the First with the Manours of Christ-Church and Fawkeshaul c. For foure thousand Markes Ever since which time the Kings of England held the Isle and Henry de Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke was by King Henrie the Sixth unto whom hee was most deere crowned King of Wight and afterwards nominated The first or principall Earle of all England But together with him this new and unusuall title died and vanished quite Afterwards Richard Widevile Earle Rivers was by King Edward the fourth stiled Lord of the Isle of Wight Sir Reginald Bray took it of King Henry the Seventh with whom he was most inward in Fee farme for a rent charg'd of three hundred markes yearely to be paid Also beside these Lords this Isle had a noble Familie named de Insula or Lisle out of which in the raigne of King Edward the Second one was summoned unto the Parliament by the
in the North side to the river Tamis King Offa usurped and seized into his owne hands Neere unto it Northwest lieth Lee which by the daughter of a certaine worshipfull Knight surnamed thereupon de Lee fell to the familie of Besiles and thereof it came to bee called Besiles Lee and from that house in right of marriage to Richard Fetiplace whose Progenitor Thomas brought some honor to his posterity by matching with Beatrice the base daughter of Iohn the first King of Portugall and widdow to Gilbert Lord Talbot of whom they are descended But now let us returne Hard by Abendon Ocke a little river that runneth by the South side of the towne over which in times past Sir Iohn of Saint Helenes Knight built a bridge gently falleth into Isis This Ocke springeth in that vale of Whitehorse scarce a mile or two from Kingston-Lisle in olde time the possession of Warin de Insulâ or Lisle a noble Baron From whom when as Sir Iohn Talbot the younger sonne of that renowned warrior Iohn Earle of Shrewsburie was descended by his mother hee was created by King Henrie the Sixth Lord Lisle like as Warin de Insula in times past in regard of the possession of this place as if that dignity were annexed thereto and afterwards Vicount Lisle by a Patent without any such regard This title through the gratious favor of Kings flourished still in his posterity one after another successively For breifly to knit up their succession When Sir Thomas Talbot sonne of the said Iohn departed this life without issue beeing deadly shot into the mouth with an arrow in a skirmish defending his possessions against the Lord Barkley Sir Edward Grey who had married his sister received the same at the hands of King Richard the third and left it to Iohn his sonne and successour Whose onely daughter and heire King Henrie the Eighth assured to Sir Charles Brandon and thereupon created him Vicount Lisle But when as shee died in tender yeeres before the marriage was solemnized hee also relinquished that title Which King Henrie afterward bestowed upon Sir Arthur Plantagenet base sonne to King Edward the fourth Who had wedded Elizabeth sister to Sir Iohn Grey Vicount Lisle and widdow of Edmund Dudley And when hee deceased without heires male the said King honoured therewith Sir Iohn Dudley sonne of Edmund by the same Elizabeth Grey who in the time of King Edward the sixth was created Duke of Northumberland and afterward attainted by Queene Marie His sonne Sir Ambrose Dudley beeing restored in bloud was by Queene Elizabeth on one and the selfe same day created Lord Lisle and Earle of Warwicke who ended his life issuelesse And now lately Sir Robert Sidney his sisters sonne was honoured with the stile of Vicoun Lisle by King Iames who had before created him beeing Chamberlaine to the Queene his wife Baron Sidney of Pensherst Then runneth the river Ocke aforesaid betweene Pusey which they that are named de Pusey hold it yet by the horn from their ancestors as given unto them in ancient time by K. Canutus the Dane and the two Dencheworths the one and the other where flourished for a long time two noble and auncient houses to wit de Hide at the one and Fetiplace at the other which families may seeme to have sprung out of one and the same stocke considering they both beare one and the same coat of armes Then entertaineth Ock a namelesse river which issueth out of the same vale at Wantage called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 where some time there was a Manour house of the Kings and the place wherein Aelfred that most noble and renowned King was borne and bred which at his death he bequeathed to Alfrith Long time after it became a mercate towne by the meanes and helpe of Sir Fulke Fitzwarin that most warlike Knight upon whom Roger Bigod Mareschall of England had bestowed it for his martiall prowesse and at this daie it acknowledgeth for Lords thereof the Bourchiers Earles of Bath descended from the race of the Fitzwarins of whose familie some were here buried Isis being departed once from Abbendon straight waies receiveth into it out of Oxfordshire the river Tame of which elsewhere and now by a compound word being called Tamisis first directeth his course to Sinodun an high hill and fenced with a deepe trench were stood for certaine in old time a fortresse of the Romanes for the ground being now broken up with the plough yeeldeth otherwhiles to the ploughmen store of Roman pieces of coine as tokens of antiquitie Under it at Bretwell there was a Castle if it were not that upon this hill which King Henry the Second wonne by force a little before that he made peace with King Stephen From hence Tamis holdeth on his way to the chiefe Citie in times past of the Attrebatians which Antonius termeth GALLEVA of Attrebats Ptolomee GALEVA but both of them through the carelessnesse of the Scriveners name it wrong for GALLENA and they likewise in their Greeke copies have thrust upon us 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for Gallena by transposition of letters I have thought it was so named in the British tongue as it were Guall hen that is The old rampier or fort Which name being still kept and Ford added thereto which is a shallow place in the river the Englishmen in old time called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we at this day shorter Wallengford In King Edward the Confessors time it was counted a Burgh and contained as we find in that Book wherein K. William the Frst tooke the Survey of all England two hundred threescore and sixteene Hages that is to say Houses yielding nine pounds de Gablo and those that dwelt there did the King service on horsebacke or by water Of those Hages eight were destroyed for the Castle In old time it was compassed about with walles which as men may see by their tract tooke up a mile in circuit It hath a Castle scituate upon the river very large I assure you and stately so fortitified in times past that the hope in it as impregnable and invincible made divers over-bold and stout For when England burned as a man may say in a generall flame of warres we read that it was by King Stephen belaied once or twise with sieges but all in vaine The greatnesse and magnificence thereof I much wondered at when I was young and removed thither from Oxford for a place it is now for the Students there of Christ Church to retire unto as having a double range of walles about it and being compassed round likewise with a duple rampier and ditch and in the midst of it there standeth a tower to keepe raised upon a mightie high mount in the steepe ascent whereof by steps we saw a Well of an exceeding depth The Inhabitants are verily perswaded that it
gartrisht faire with cockles sets no store Nor Rhodes with Alcal and Elba regard the robes with Crosse Sightly beset so that they count their Orders all but drosse Compar'd with Knighthood this of thine which onely beares the name Cease now to joy cease now at length to wonder at the same All yeeld to one what ev'r thou hast in one is drowned all For greater glorie grow's to thee and honour more doth fall In that there dwels upon my banke and seated is in thee Elizabeth and therewith Tamis seeming to bow his knee And gently crouch obeisance made and then he thus went on Elizabeth of Englishmen sole Goddesse Saint alone Whose praise-worth vertues if in verse I now should take in hand For to comprize on Meliboc an hill that high doth stand I might as easily set the Alps or number all my sand If some I would in silence passe what ever I suppresse Will greater proove than all the rest If I my selfe addresse Her formost acts and travailes old to count I then shall find That those of present times to them will draw away my mind Say that of justice I relate more shin's her mercies lore Speake I of her victorious armes unarm'd she gained more That piety now flourisheth that England feares no warre That none rules law but unto law all men obedient are That neighbour Scots be not enthral'd to Frenchmen rigorous That Irish wild doe now cast of their fashions barbarous That shag-hai'rd Ulster Kern doth learne civility anew The praise and thanks is hers alone What is not to her due Those Goddesses that vices chase and are beseeming best A Prince so rare are seated all and shrined in her brest Religion First puts her in mind to worship God aright And Iustice teacheth to preferre before all gaine the right Prudence adviseth naught to doe rashly without fore-cast Then Temperance perswades to love all things both pure and chast And Constancie her resolute mind doth settle firme and fast Hence justly she ALVVAYS THE SAME claimes and keepes to the last Who can discribe in in waving verse such noble vertues all Praise-worthy parts she hath alone what all ye reckon shall Then happinesse long life and health praise love may her betide So long as waves of mine shall last or streame and bankes abide So long may shee most blessed Prince all Englands scepter sway Let both my course and her life end in one and selfe-same day The rest of Barkshire which lieth Southward from Windsor is shadowed with woods and thickets commonly called the Forrest of Windlesor in which the townes and villages stand but thinne whereof Ockingham is of greatest name by reason of the bignesse thereof and trade of clothing but very full it is of game in everie place Now for as much as we have oftentimes made mention and shall still of the Forrests what a Forrest is and the reason of that name if you desire to know but see you laugh not thereat take it heere out of the blacke booke of the Exchequer A Forrest is a safe harbor and abiding place of deere or beasts not of any whatsoever but of wilde and such as delight in woods not in every place but in some certaine and meet for that purpose and hereupon a forrest hath the name as one would say Feresta that is a station of wild beasts And incredible it is how much ground the kings of England have ●uffered every where to lie untilled and set a part for to empale enclose such deere or as they use to say have afforested Neither can I think that any thing else was the cause thereof but onely the overmuch delight in hunting or to maintaine the Kings houshold although some attribute it to the infrequencie of the people to inhabit the countrey seeing that since the Danes were heere they for a long time afforested more and more and for the maintenance and keeping of such places ordained most straight lawes and an overseer whom they cal Protoforestarius that is Chiefe forrester or Master of the Forrests who should heare causes belonging unto Forrests and punish either by death or losse of limb whosoever killed Deere within any parke or chase But Iohn of Sarisburie shal in his own words tell you these things briefely out of his Polycraticon that which you may marvell more at to lay grins for birds to set snares to allure them with nooze or pipe or by any waies laying whatsoever to entrap or take them is oftentimes by vertue of an Edict made a crime and either amerced with forfeiture of goods or punished with losse of limbe and life You have heard that the fowles of the aire and fishes of the sea are common But these ywis belong unto the King which the Forrest Law taketh hold of and claimeth wheresoever they flie With-hold thy hand forbeare and abstaine lest thou also bee punished for treason fall into the hunters hand as a prey Husbandmen are debarred their fallow fields whiles Deere have libertie to stray abroad and that their pasture may bee augmented the poore farmer is abridged and cut short of his grounds What is sowne planted or graffed they keepe from the husbandmen that bee tenants both pasturage from heardmen drovers and graziers and Bee-hives they exclude from floury plots yea the very Bees themselves are scarcely permitted to use their naturall libertie Which courses seeming too inhumane were the occasion otherwhiles of great troubles and uproares so long untill in the end by the rising and revolt of the Barons there was wrested from King Henry the third the Charter de Foresta wherin those rigorous laws being made void he granted others more indifferent whereunto they are bound even at this day who dwell within compasse of the Forrests And from that time two Justices were appointed for these causes whereof the one overseeth all Forrests on this side the river Trent the other all the rest beyond Trent as farre as Scotland with great authoritie Throughout all this Province or county as wee find in the Survey booke of England The Taine or Kings Knight holding of him as Lord whensoever he died left unto the King for a reliefe all his armour one horse with a saddle and another without a saddle And if he had either hounds or hawkes they were tendred and presented unto the King that hee might take them if he would When Gelt was given in the time of King Edward the Confessour generally throughout all Barkshire an Hide of Land yeilded three-pence halfe-penny before Christmas and as much at Whitsontide Thus much of Barkshire which as yet hath given the title of Earle to no man Within the compasse of this shire are parishes 140. THese Regions which hitherto we have travailed thorow that is to say of the Danmonij Durotriges Belgae and Attrebatij what time as the Saxons bare Soveraigne rule in Britaine fell to the Kingdome of the West-Saxons which they in their language
unto William the Conquerour upon this condition that they might retaine their ancient customes unviolated and especially that which they call Gavelkind that is Give all kinne by which they are not so bound by Copyhold customarie tenures or Tenant-right as in other parts of England but in manner every man is a free-holder and hath some part of his owne to live upon For lands of this nature are equally divided among the male children or if there be no sonnes among the daughters By vertue of this also they are at full age and enter upon their inheritance when they come to be fifteene yeares old and lawfull it is for them to alienate and make it over to any one either by gift or by sale without the Lords consent By this likewise the sonne though their parents were condemned for theft succeede them neverthelesse in such kind of Lands c. which I leave to Lawyers So that it is truely though not purely written in Latine in an old book thus The County of Kent avoucheth that this County ought by right to be free from such kind of grievance for it saith that this County was never conquered as the residue of England was but by concluding of a peace subjected themselves to the dominion of the Conquerour retaining to themselves all their liberties immunities and customes which they had and used before time After this William the Conquerour that hee might more firmely assure to himselfe Kent which is the very key of England placed a Constable over Dover Castle and according to the ancient order of the Romans made him also Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports And these bee they Hastings Dover Hith Rumney and Sandwich unto which Winchelsey and Rie are joyned as principall ports and other small townes as Members Which because they are bound to serve in the warres by sea enjoy many great immunities as who are free from payment of Subsidies and from Wardship of their children as touching the bodie neither are they sued in any court but within their owne townes and of the inhabitants therein such as they call Barons at the Coronation of Kings and Queenes support the Canopies over them yea and have a table by themselves that day spred and furnished on the Kings right hand c. And the Lord Warden himselfe who is alwaies one of the Nobilitie of most approved trust hath within his jurisdiction the authoritie of a Chancellour and Admirall in very many cases and enjoyeth other rights besides But now returne we to the places The Northside of this Country Tamis the soveraigne of all Rivers in Britaine runneth hard by as I have said before which having held on his course past Surrey forthwith being with a winding reach almost retired into himselfe doth there admit into his channell into the first limit of this shire Ravensburne a small water and of short course which riseth in Keston heath hard under the pitching of an ancient campe strange for the height of double rampiers and depth of double ditches of all that I have seene doubtlesse the worke of many Labouring hands Of what capacitie it was I could not discover for that the greatest part thereof is now severall and overgrowne with a thicket but verily great it was as may bee gathered by that which is apparent We may probably conjectture that it was a Roman Campe but I might seeme to rove if I should thinke it that Campe which Iulius Caesar pitched when the Britans gave him the last battaile with their whole forces and then having bad successe retired themselves and gave him leave to march to the Tamis side And yet certes Keston the name of the place seemeth to retaine a parcell of Kesars name for so the Britaine 's called him and not Caesar as wee doe As for the other small intrenchment not farre of by W. Wickham it was cast in fresh memory when old Sir Christopher Heydon a man then of great command in these parts trained the country people This water having passed by Bromeley a Mansion house of the Bishops of Rochester when it hath gathered strength the depth of his ford giveth name to Depe-ford a most famous Ship-docke where the Kings ships are built and such as be decaied repaired there also is a goodly Store-house and a Colledge as it were or incorporation ordained for the use of the navie The place was sometime called West-Greenwich and at the conquest of England fell to Cislebert Mamignot for his share whose Grand-child Walkelin defended Dover Castle against King Stephen and left behind him one onely daughter living who when her brother was dead by her marriage brought a rich inheritance called the Honor of Mamignot into the family of the Saies From hence the Tamis goeth to Green-wich that is the Greene Creeke for the creek of a river in the old English tongue was called Wic a place in times past famous for the Danish Fleet that lay there often at Rode and for the Danes crueltie shewed unto Ealpheg Archbishop of Canterbury whom in the yeare of our Lord a thousand and twelve they cruelly executed with most exquisite torments Whose death together with the cause thereof Ditmarus Mersepurgius who about the same time lived hath thus in the eighth booke of his Chronicles described I understood saith he by the relation of Sewald a pitifull deede and therefore memorable namely That the perfideous crew of Northman souldiours under Thurkil as yet their Captaine tooke that excellent prelate Archbishop of the Citie of Canterburie named Ealph●g with the rest and them after their wicked manner emprisoned and bound yea and put him to endure famine and unspeakeable paines This good man moved with humane frailtie promiseth unto them a summe of money and for the obtaining thereof did set downe a time betweene that if in this space he could not by some acceptable ransome escape this momentany death hee might yet in the meane while purge himselfe with many a groane to be offered as a lively sacrifice unto the Lord. But when all the time space appointed were come gone this greedy gulfe of Pirates called forth the servant of the Lord in threatning wise demands this tribute promised unto them to be spedily and out of hand paid Then he as a meeke Lamb Here am I quoth he ready to undergoe even for the love of Christ whatsoever ye presume now to doe against me that I may deserve to become an example of his servants And nothing am I troubled at this day And whereas I seeme unto you a lyer it is not mine owne will but great neede and povertie that hath done it This body of mine which in this exile I have loved overmuch I present as culpable unto you and I know it is in your power to doe with it what yee intend but my sinfull soule that regardeth not you I humbly commend to the Creator of all things As hee was thus speaking the whole rabble of these
deliver up into his hands this Castle together with the well what time as he aspired to the Kingdome and after hee had settled his estate and affaires at London thought it good before all other things to fortifie this peece and to assigne faire lands in Kent unto Gentlemen to bee held in Castle-guard with this condition to be in readinesse with certaine numbers of men for defence of the same which service notwithstanding at this day is redeemed with a yearely paiment of money For when Sir Hubert de Burgh was Constable of this Castle to use the words of an old writer he weighed with himselfe that it was not safe for the Castle to have every moneth new warders for the Castle guard procured by the assent of the King and all that held of that Castle that every one should send for the ward of one moneth tenne shillings and that therewith certaine men elected and sworne as well horse as foote should be waged for to gard the Castle It is written that Phillip surnamed Augustus King of France when Lewis his sonne went about to gaine the Crowne of England had wonne certaine Cities and Forts and could not get this being manfully defended by the said Sir Hubert de Burgh said thus Verily my sonne hath not one foote of land in England untill he be Master of Dover Castle as beeing in very deed the strongest hold of all England and most commodious for the French Vpon the other cliffe which standeth over against it and beareth up his head in manner even with it are extant the remaines of a very ancient building One I know not upon what reason induced said it was Caesars Altar But Iohn Twin of Canterbury a learned old man who in his youth saw a great part thereof standing whole and entire assured me that it had beene a Watch-towre to give night light and direction to ships Like as there stood another opposite unto it at Bologne in France erected thereby the Romans and long after reedified by Charles the Great as Regino witnesseth in whom Phanum for Pharum is falsly read which at this day the French terme Tour de Order and the English The old man of Bullen Vnder this cliffe Henry the Eighth in our fathers daies with exceeding labour and 63000. pounds charges by pitching huge posts fast within the very sea and the same bound together with yron worke and heaping thereupon a deale of timber and stones brought up a mightie Pile which we call The Peere wherein the ships might more safely ride But the furious violence of the raging Ocean soone overcame the laudable endeavour of that puissant Prince and so the frame of this worke beaten continually upon with the waves became dis-joyned For the repaire whereof Queene Elizabeth laid out a great summe of money and the Authoritie of Parliament imposed upon every English ship that carry forth or bring in merchandise a certaine toll upon Tonneage for certaine yeares This Sea coast of Britaine is seperated from the Continent of Europe by a frete or streight where as some suppose the Seas brake in and made way betweene the lands Solinus calleth it Fretum Gallicum Tacitus and Ammianus Macellinus Fretum Oceani and Oceanum Fretalem Gratius the Poet Freta Morinum dubio refluentia ponto The narrow Seas on Bollen-coast that keepe uncertaine tides They of the Netherlands call it Dehofden of the two heads or promontories we the Narrow-sea and The strait of Calais as the Frenchmen Pas de Callais For this is the place as saith a Poet of our time gemini quà janua ponti Faucibus angustis latèque frementibus undis Gallorum Anglorumque vetat concurrere terras Where current of two seas In gullet streight wherein throughout their billowes rage and fret Keepes France and England so a part as though they never met The narrow sea as Marcellinus truly writeth swelleth at every tide with terrible high flouds and againe at the ebbe becommeth as flat as a plaine field if it be not raised with winds and counter seas betweene two risings of the moone it floweth twice and ebbeth as oft For as the Moone ascendeth toward the Meridian and is set againe under the Horizon in the just opposite point the Ocean heere swelleth mightily and the huge billowes rush upon the shores with so great a noise that the Poet might well say Rhutupináque littora fervent And Rhutup shore doth boile and billow and D. Paulinus where he speaketh of the County of Bulloigne which he termeth the utmost skirt of the world not without cause used these words Oceanum barbaris fluctibus frementem that is The Ocean raging and roaring with barbarous billowes Heere might arise a question beseeming a learned man that hath wit and time at will whether where this narrow sea runneth between France and Britaine now there was a narrow banke or necke of land that in times past conjoyned these regions and afterwards being broken either by the generall deluge or by rushing in of the waves or else by occasion of some earth-quake did let in the waters to make a through passage Verily as no man makes doubt that the face of the whole earth hath beene altered partly by the said deluge and partly by long continuance of time and other causes as also that Ilands by earthquakes or the shrinking back of waters were laid and joyned unto firme lands so most certainly it appeareth by authors of best credite that Ilands by reason of earthquakes and the breaking in of waters were severed disjoyned and rent from the Continent Whereupon Pythagoras in Ovid saith thus Vidi ego quod quondam fuerat solidissima tellus Esse fretum vidi factas ex aequore terras My selfe have seene maine ground sometime turned into sea and sand And seene I have againe the Sea became maine setled land Strabo gathering of things to come by those that are past concluded that such Isthmi neckes or narrow bankes of land both have beene and shall bee wrought and pierced through You see saith Seneca whole regions violently removed from their places and now to lie beyond the Sea which lay before bounding upon it and hard by You see there is separation made both of Countries and nations when as some part of nature is provoked of it selfe or when the mighty wind beateth strongly upon some sea the force whereof as in generall is wonderfull For although it rage but in part yet it is of the universall power that so it rageth Thus hath the sea rent Spaine from the Continent of Africke Thus by Deucalions floud so much spoken of by the greatest Poets was Sicilie out from Italy And hereupon Virgil wrote thus Haec loca vi quondam vasta convulsa ruinâ Tantum aevi longinqua valet mutare vetustas Dissiluisse ferunt cùm protinùs utraque tellus Vna foret venit medio vi pontus undis Hesperium Siculo latus abscidit arvaque urbes Littore diductas angusto interluit aestu
and Caer Vember in the British language and that I wote not what Vortigerns and Memprices built it But what ever it was in the Britans time the English Saxons called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and altogether in the same signification that the Grecians terme their Bosphori and the Germans their Ochen-furt upon Odera to wit of the fourd of Oxen in which sense it is named of our Britans in Wales at this day Rhyd-ychen And yet Leland grounding upon a probable conjecture deriveth the name from the River Ouse called in Latine Isis and supposeth that it hath beene named Ousford considering that the River Eights or Islands which Isis scattereth hereabout bee called Ousney Sage antiquity as wee read in our Chronicles consecrated this Citty even in the British age unto the Muses whom from Greeke-lad which is a small Towne at this day in Wilt-shire they translated hither as unto a more fruitefull Plant-plot For thus writeth Alexander Necham The skill of Civill Law Italy challengeth to it selfe but for Heavenly Writ or Holy Scripture the liberall Sciences also do prove that the Citty of Paris is to bee preferred before all others Moreover according to the Prophesie of Merline Wisedome and Learning flourished at Oxford which in due time was to passe over into the parts of Ireland But when during the English Saxons age next ensuing there was nothing but continuall wasting and rasing of Townes and Citties according to the sway and current of those dayes it sustained in part the common calamity of that time and for a great while was frequented onely for the reliques of Frideswide who for the chastity and integrity of her life was canonized a Saint upon this occasion especially for that by a solemne vow shee had wholly devoted her selfe unto the Service of GOD and Prince Algar whiles he came a wooing unto her was miraculously as writers say stricken blinde This Frideswide as wee reade in William of Malmesbury triumphing for her virginity erected here a Monastery into which when certaine Danes adjudged to die in King Etheldreds time fled for refuge as to a Sanctuary they were all burned with the buildings such was the unsatiable anger of the Englishmen against them But soone after when the King repented this Act the Sanctuary was cleansed the Monastery reedified the old Lands restored new Possessions added and at length the place was given by Roger Bishop of Salisbury unto a Chanon excellently well learned who there presented unto GOD many such Chanons who should live regularly in their Order But leaving these matters let us returne unto the University When the tempestuous Danish stormes were meetely well blowne ouer Aelfred that most devout and Godly King recalled the long banished Muses unto their owne Sacred Chancells and built three Colledges one for Grammarians a second for Philosophers and a third for Divines But this you may more plainely understand out of these words in old Annales of the new Abbey of Winchester In the yeare of Christs Incarnation * 806. and in the second yeare of Saint Grimbald his comming into England was the Vniversity of OXFORD begunne The first Regents in the same and Readers in the Divinity Schoole were Saint Neoth an Abbat and besides a worthy Teacher in Divinity and holy Grimbald a right excellent Professour of the most sweete written Word of Holy Scripture But in Grammar and Rhetoricke the Regent was Asserius a Monke in the skill of Literature passing well learned In Logicke Musicke and Arithmeticke the Reader was John a Monke of the Church of Saint Davids In Geometry and Astronomy reade John a Monke also and Companion of Saint Grimbald a Man of a passing quicke witte and right learned every way At which Lectures was present that most glorious and invincible King Aelfred whose memoriall in every Mans mouth shall bee as sweete as honie But presently after as wee reade in a very good manuscript coppy of the sayd Asserius who at the same time professed learning here There arose a most dangerous and pernicious dissention at Oxford betweene Grimbald and these great Clerkes whom hee brought thither with him on the one side and those old Schoole-men whom hee there found on the other side who upon his comming refused altogether to embrace the Rules Orders and Formes of reading prescribed and begunne by him For three yeares space the variance and discord betweene them was not great howbeit there lurked a secret hatred fostered and festered among them which brake out afterwards in most grievous and bitter manner and was most evident For the appeasing whereof that most Invincible King Aelfred being by a message and complaint from Grimbald certified of that discord went to OXFORD to determine and end this controversie Where also himselfe in Person tooke exceeding great paines in giving Audience to the quarrels and complaints of both sides Now the maine substance of all the contention stood upon this point Those old Schoole-men hotly avouched that before Grimbalds comming to OXFORD Learning generally flourished there although the Schollers and Students were fewer then in number than in former times by reason that the most of them through the cruelty and tyranny of Painims were expelled Moreover they proved and declared and that by the undoubted testimony of old Chronicles that the Orders and Ordinances of that place were made and established by certaine Godly and learned men as namely Gildas of holy memory Melkin Ninnius Kentigern and others who all of them studied and followed their books there untill they were aged persons managing and governing all things there in happy peace and concord also that S. German came to Oxford and abode there halfe a yeare what time as he travelled through Britan with a purpose to preach against the Pelagian heresies who wonderous well allowed of their former Orders and Ordinances This Noble King with incredible and unexampled humility heard both parts most diligently exhorting them in earnest wise enterlacing godly and wholsome admonitions to keepe mutuall society and concord one with another And so the King departed with this minde hoping they would all of both sides obey his counsell and embrace his orders But Grymbald taking this unkindely and to the heart forthwith went his wayes to Winchester Abbay newly founded by Aelfred Shortly after hee caused his owne Tombe to be translated to Winchester wherein he purposed after hee had runne his race in this life that his bones should bee bestowed in an arched Vault made under the Chancell of Saint Peters Church in Oxford Which Church verily the same Grymbald had built from the very foundation out of the ground with stone most curiously wrought and polished Within some years after this new revived felicity there ensued divers disturbances from the Danes and afterward followed one or two calamities For the Danes in the reigne of Etheldred by way of robbery and foule worke and havocke there and streight after Herald surnamed Light foote raged against it with such barbarous
for that among other matters hee had consulted with a Wizard about succession of the Crowne was beheaded a noble man exceeding much missed and lamented of good men Which when the Emperour Charles the fifth heard he said as it is written in his life That a Butchers dogge had devoured the fairest Bucke in all England alluding to the name Buckingham and the said Cardinall who was a Butchers sonne Ever since which time the splendour of this most noble family hath so decaied and faded that there remaineth to their posterity the bare title onely of Barons of Stafford whereas they were stiled before Dukes of Buckingham Earles of Stafford Hereford Northampton and Perth Lords of Brecknock Kimbalton and Tunbridge There are reckoned in this small Shire Parishes 185. BEDFORD Comitatus olim pars CATHIFVCLANORVM BEDFORD-SHIRE BEDFORD-SHIRE is one of the three Counties which we said the Cattieuchlani inhabited On the East-side and the South it joyneth to Cambridge-shire and Hertford-shire on the West to Buckingham-shire and on the North to Northamton-shire and Huntingdon-shire and by the river OVSE crossing over it is divided into two parts The North-side thereof is the more fruit●ull of the twaine and more woody the other toward the South which is the greater standeth upon a leaner soile but not altogether unfertile For it yeeldeth foorth aboundantly full white and bigge Barley In the mids it is somewhat thicke of woods but Eastward more drie ground and bare of wood Ouse where it entereth into this shire first visiteth Turvy the Lord Mordants house who are beholden to King Henry the Eighth for their Barony For he created Iohn Mordant a wise and prudent man who had wedded the daughter and one of the coheires of H. Vere of Addington Baron Mordant then runneth it by Harwood a Village in old time called Hareleswood where Sampson surnamed Fortis founded a Nunnery and where in the yeere of our redemption 1399. a little before those troubles and civill broiles wherewith England a long time was rent in peeces this river stood still and by reason that the waters gave backe on both sides men might passe on foote within the very chanell for three miles together not without wondering of all that saw it who tooke it as a plaine presage of the division ensuing Afterward it passeth by Odill or Woodhill sometimes Wahull which had his Lords surnamed also De Wahul men of ancient Nobility whose Barony consisted of thirty knights fees in divers countries and had here their Castle which is now hereditarily descended to Sir R. Chetwood knight as the inheritance of the Chetwoods came formerly to the Wahuls From hence Ouse no lesse full of crooked crankes and windings than Maeander it selfe goeth by Bletnesho commonly called Bletso the residence in times past of the Pateshuls after of the Beauchamps and now of the Honourable family of S. Iohn which long since by their valour attained unto very large and goodly possessions in Glamorgan-shire and in our daies through the favor of Q. Elizabeth of happy memory unto the dignity of Barons when she created Sir Oliver the second Baron of her creation Lord S. Iohn of Bletnesho unto whom it came by Margaret Beauchamp an inheritrice wedded first to Sir Oliver S. Iohn from whose these Barons derive their pedigree and secondly to Iohn Duke of Somerset unto whom she bare the Lady Margaret Countesse of Richmond a Lady most vertuous and alwaies to be remembred with praises from whose loines the late Kings and Queenes of England are descended From hence Ouse hastneth by Brumham a seat of the Dives of very ancient parentage in these parts to Bedford in the Saxon-tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the principall towne and whereof the Shire also taketh name and cutteth it so through the middest that it might seeme to be two severall townes but that a stone bridge joyneth them together A towne to be commended more for the pleasant situation and ancientry thereof then for beauty or largenesse although a man may tell five Churches in it That it was Antonines LACTODORVM I dare not as others doe affirme considering that it standeth not upon the Romans Military road way which is the most certaine marke to finde out the station and Mansions mentioned by Antonine neither are there heere any peeces of Romane money ever digged up as far as I can learne I have read that in the Brittish tongue it was named Liswidur or Lettidur but it may seeme to have been translated so out of the English name For Lettuy in the British language signifieth Common Innes and so Lettidur Innes upon a river like Bedford in English Beds or Innes at a fourd Cuthwulf the Saxon about the yeere of our salvation 572. beneath this towne so vanquished the Britans in an open pitch field that then presently upon it finding themselves over-matched yeelded up many townes into his hands Neither should it seeme that the Saxons neglected it For Offa the most puissant King of the Mercians choose heere as we read in Florilegus for himselfe a place of sepulture whose tombe the river Ouse swelling upon a time and carrying a more violent and swifter streame than ordinary in a floud swouped cleane away Afterwards also when it was rased downe and lay along by occasion of the Danish depredations K. Edward the Elder repaired it and laid unto it upon the South-side of the river a prety townlet which in that age as we finde in the best copy of Hovedon was called Mikesgat In the time of King Edward the Confessor as we read in that booke which King William the Conqueror caused to be written when he tooke the survey of England It defended it selfe for halfe an Hundred in wars expeditions and shipping The land belonging to this towne was never bided After this it suffered far more grievous calamities under the Normans For when Pain de Beauchamp the third Baron of Bedford had built heere a Castle there arose not any storme of civill war but it thundred upon it so long as it stood Stephen when with breach of his oath he intercepted to himselfe the Kingdome of England first forced this Castle and with very great slaughter of men won it afterwards when the Barons had taken armes against King Iohn William de Beauchamp Lord thereof and one of the Captaines of their side surrendred it unto their hands But a yeere or two after Falco de Breaut laid siege thereto and forthwith the Barons yeelded and the King in free gift bestowed it upon him Yet the unthankefull man raised up a world of warre againe upon King Henry the third He pulled downe Churches to strengthen this Castle and exceedingly damnified the territory adjoyning untill the King besieged it and when after threescore daies he had quelled the stubborne stomackes of these rebels brought this nest and nourse of sedition into his owne hands It will not be I hope distastfull to the reader if I set
the East with Essex and the North with Cambridge-shire A rich country in corne fields pastures medows woods groves and cleere riverets And for ancient townes it may contend with the neighbours even for the best For there is scarsely another shire in all England that can shew more places of Antiquities in so small a compasse In the very limit thereof Northward where it boundeth upon Cambridge-shire standeth Roiston a towne well knowne but of no antiquity as being risen since the Normans daies For one Dame Roise a woman in that age of right great name whom some thinke to have been Countesse of Norfolke erected there about a Crosse in the high way which was thought in that age a pious worke to put passengers in minde of Christs passion whereupon this place was for many yeeres called Roises-Crosse untill that Eustach de Marc adjoined thereto a little Monastery in the honour of Thomas of Canterbury for then were Innes built and by little and little it grew to be a towne which in stead of Roises Crosse was called Roiston that is Roises towne unto which King Richard the First granted a Faire at certaine set times and a mercat Now it is very famous and passing much frequented for Malt For it is almost incredible how many buyers and sellers of corne how many Badgers yea and Corne-mongers or Regraters flocke hither weekely every mercat day and what a number of horses loden doe then fill the high waies on every side Over Roiston Southward is mounted Tharfield among the high hils an ancient habitation of the familie of Berners descended from Hugh de Berners unto whom in recompence of his valiant service in the Normans Conquest King William the Conquerour granted faire lands in Eversdon within the county of Cambridge And in so great worship and reputation flourished his posterity that Sir John Bourchier who married the right heire at common law of that familie being promoted by King Edward the Fourth to the honour of Baron tooke his addition thereof and was stiled Baron Bourchier of Berners and usually Lord Berners Upon this confineth Nucelles belonging in times past to the house of the Rochesters or Roffes but all the repute and glory that it hath arose from the inhabitants thereof afterwards namely the Barons of Scales descended out of Norfolke but yet the heires of Roffe For King Edward the First gave unto Sir Robert de Scales in regard of his valourous service in the Scotish warres certaine lands to the value in those daies of three hundred markes by the yeare and called him among the Barons to the Parliament Their Eschocheon Gules with sixe escallops argent is seene in many places They flourished unto King Edward the Fourth his daies at what time the only daughter and heire of this family was wedded vnto Sir Anthonie Widevile Earle Rivers whom being advanced by his owne glorious prowesse and the kings marriage with his sister the malicious hatred and envie of his enemies most vilanouslie overwrought and brought to utter destruction For King Richard the Third beheaded him innocent man as he was And when as she died without issue the inheritance was parted in King Henry the Sevenths time betweene Iohn Earle of Oxford who by the Howards and Sir William Tindale knight who by the Bigods of Felbridge were found next cousens and coheires The Manour of Barkway hereby appertained also to those Lords Scales a well knowne throughfare Beyond which is Barley that imparted surname to the ancient and well allied family of the Barleies and on this side Anestie which was not long since the inheritance of the house of Yorke and in elder times the Castle there was a nest of rebels wherefore Nicholas of Anesty Lord thereof was expresly commanded by King Henry the Third to demolish so much of it as was raised since the Barons warres against his Father King John But now time hath wholy rased it all To returne though disorderly East-ward is Ashwell as one would say The well or fountaine among the Ashes a Country towne of good bignesse and full of houses situate on a low ground in the very North edge of the shire where there is a source of springs bubling out of a stony banke overshadowed on every side with tall ashes from whence there floweth at certaine veines continually running such store of water that forthwith being gathered within banks it carrieth a streame able to drive a Mill and all of a sudden as it were groweth to a good big river Of these wels and ashes together as most certaine it is that the English-Saxons imposed this new name Ashwell so I have been sometime of this opinion that the ancient Britans who as Gildas witnesseth heaped divine honours upon hils rivers fountaines and groves from the very same thing and in the same sense called it Magiovinium and that it was the same which Antonine named MAGIONINIVM But time hath now discovered a more certaine truth neither am I ashamed to change mine opinion in this point seeing I take no pleasure at all in mine owne error And yet to prove the ancientnesse of this towne the large quadrant adjoyning enclosed with a trench and rampire maketh much which by the Romane peeces of coyne digged up there oftentimes sheweth whose worke it was and in that booke wherein above 500. yeeres since King William the Conquerour tooke the review and account of all the townes in England it is in plaine words tearmed a Burgh Southward we saw Merkat-Baldock situate upon a whitish soile wherein as also in Hitching hard by we read of no antiquity Then is there seated in a well-husbanded and good ground Wimondley an ancient and famous Lordship held by the most honourable tenure with us which our Lawyers terme Grand-Sergeanty namely that the Lord thereof should serve unto the Kings of England upon their Coronation day the first cup and be as it were the Kings Cup-bearer Which honorable office in regard of this Lordship certaine Noble Gentlemen called Fitz-Tek held in the beginning of the Normans reigne from whom by a daughter it came unto the Argentons These fetched their name and pedegree from David de Argenton a Norman and a martiall knight who under King William the Conquerour served in the wars and they in remembrance heereof gave for their armes Three Cups Argent in a shield Gueules But at last for want of issue male in King Henry the Sixth his daies Elizabeth Argenton the sole and entier inheritrice brought it unto her husband Sir William Allington knight with faire lands thereby and this dignity from whom Sir Giles Allington now the heire of this family is the seventh a young Gentleman right courteous and of a generous nature who I hope will give some new lustre by his vertues unto the ancient worship of his house Hard by and neere unto the roade high-way betweene Stevenhaugh and Knebworth the seat of the worshipfull house of the
effusion of Britanes bloud When the Romane Empire was at length come to an end in Britane Vortigern the Britane gave to the Saxons who kept him prisoner for his ransome this Country with others as Ninnius writeth and it had his peculiar Kings for a long time together but such as held by homage sometimes of the Kentish Kings sometimes of the Mercians Among whom Sebert in the yeere 603. was the first that became a Christian and Suthred the last King who being vanquished by Egbert in the yeere 804. left the Kingdome unto the West-Saxons But heereof elsewhere more largely Now let us survey the very Country MIDDLE SEX OLIMA TRINOBANTIBVS habitata MIDLE-SEX MIDLE-SEX taketh name of the Middle-Saxons because the Inhabitants thereof were in the middest betweene East-Saxons West-Saxons South-Saxons and those whom that age called Mercians It is severed from Buckingham-shire by the River Cole which the Britans called Co on the West-side from Hertford-shire on the North-side by a knowne crooked limite from Essex on the East with the River Lea from Surrey and Kent on the South by the Tamis It being comprised within short Bounds lyeth out in length where it is longest twenty miles and in the narrowest place it is scant twelve miles over For aire passing temperate and for Soile fertile with sumptuous houses and prety Townes on all sides pleasantly beautified and every where offereth to the view many things memorable By the River Cole where it entreth first into this Shire wee saw Breakespeare an ancient house belonging to a Family so sirnamed out of which came Pope Hadrian the Fourth of whom erewhile I spake then Haresfeld in old time Herefelle the possession in King William the Conquerours daies of Richard the sonne of Counte Gislebert More Southward Vxbridge anciently Woxbridge a Towne of later time built and full of Innes stretcheth out in length Beneath which is Draiton reedified by the Barons Paget Colham which from the Barons Le Strange came to the Earles of Darby and Stanwell ever since the Normans comming in unto our fathers dayes the habitation of the Family of Windesore And not farre from hence Cole after it hath made certaine scattering medow Islands at two small mouthes falleth into Tamis Along the side whereof as a Germane Poet in this our age pretily versified Tot campos Sylvas tot regia tecta tot hortos Artifici dextrâ excultos tot vidimus arces Ut nunc Ausonio Tamisis cum Tybride certet So many fields and pleasant woods so many princely Bowres And Palaces we saw besides so many stately Towres So many gardens trimly dress'd by curious hand which are That now with Romane Tyberis the Tamis may well compare At the very first entrance Stanes in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 offereth it selfe to our sight where Tamis hath a woodden Bridge over it This name it tooke of a meere-stone heere in times past set up to marke out the jurisdiction that the City of London hath in the River Neere unto this stone is that most famous Medow Runingmead commonly called Renimed in which the Baronage of England assembled in great number in the yeere 1215. to exact their Liberties of King John Whereof in the marriage of Tame and Isis the Poet wrote thus speaking of the Tamis that runneth hard by Subluit hic pratum quod dixit Renimed Anglus Quo sedere duces armis annísque verendi Regis Joannis cuperent qui vertere sceptrum Edwardi Sancti dum leges juráque vellent Principe contempto tenebroso è carcere duci Hinc sonnere tubae plusquam civilia bella Venit hinc refugus nostras Lodovicus in orat Hence runnes it hard by Medow greene in English RENIMED Where close in counsell sat the Lords as well for armour dred As ancient yeeres right reverend who sought their soveraigne King John to depose from regall Throne Whiles that they ment to bring Contemning Prince S. Edwards lawes and liberties againe Inure which had long time forlet a quite forgotten laine Hence more than civill Warres aloud the trumpets ganne to sound Hence Lewis of France who soone retir'd set foot on English ground From thence it passeth by Coway-stakes at Lalam where we said that Caesar crossed over the Tamis and the Britans fensed the banke and Fourd against him with stakes whereof it had the name Tamis passing downe from thence seeth above it Harrow the highest hill of all this Country under which Southward there lie for a long way together exceeding rich and fruitfull fields especially about Heston a small Village that yeeldeth so fine floure for manchet that a long time it hath served for the Kings mouth Within a little of it is Hanworth where stands a prety house of the Kings which King Henry the Eighth tooke exceeding delight in as being a retiring place for his solace and voluptuous pleasure Afterwards it runneth hard by Hampton Court a royall Palace of the Kings a worke in truth of admirable magnificence built out of the ground by Thomas Wolsey Cardinall in ostentation of his riches when for very pride being otherwise a most prudent man hee was not able to mannage his minde But it was made an Honour enlarged and finished by King Henry the Eighth so amply as it containeth within it five severall inner Courts passing large environed with very faire buildings wrought right curiously and goodly to behold Of which Leland writeth thus Est locus insolito rerum splendore superbus Alluitúrque vaga Tamisini fluminis unda Nomine ab antiquo jam tempore dictus Avona Hîc Rex Henricus taleis Octavius aedes Erexit qualeis toto Sol aureus orbe Non vidit A stately place for rare and glorious shew There is which Tamis with wandring streame doth dowsse Times past by name of Avon men it knew Heere Henry the Eigth of that name built an house So sumptuous as that on such an one Seeke through the World the bright Sunne never shone And another in the Nuptiall Poeme of Tame and Isis. Alluit Hamptonam celebrem quae laxior urbis Mentitur formam spacijs hanc condidit aulam Purpureus pater ille gravis gravis ille sacerdos Wolsaeus fortuna favos cui ●elle repletos Obtulit heu tandem foriunae dona dolores He runnes by HAMPTON which for spacious seat Seemes City-like Of this faire Courtly Hall First founder was a Priest and Prelate great Wolsey that grave and glorious Cardinall Fortune on him had pour'd her gifts full fast But Fortunes Blisse Alas prov'd Bale at last And now with a winding reach the River bendeth his course Northward by Gistleworth for so was that called in old time which now is Thistleworth Where sometime stood the Palace of Richard King of Romans and Earle of Cornwall which the Londoners in a tumultuous broile burnt to the ground From hence Sion sheweth it selfe a little Monastery so named of the most holy Mount Sion
the clouds disparcled and golden dayes in deed shone upon it Since when it never sustained any great calamity to speake of but through the speciall favour and indulgence of Princes obtained very large and great Immunities beganne to bee called The Kings Chamber and so flourished a new with fresh trade and traffique of Merchants that William of Malmesbury who lived well neere about that time termed it A noble and wealthy City replenished with rich Citizens and frequented with the commerce of Occupiers and Factours comming out of all lands And Fitz-Stephen living also in those dayes hath left in writing that London at that time counted an hundred and twenty two Parish Churches and thirteene Covents of religious Orders also that when a Muster and shew was made of able men to beare Armes they brought into the Field under their Collours forty thousand footemen and twenty thousand horsemen Then was it enlarged with new buildings and the spacious Suburbs stretched forth from the gates a great length on every side but Westward especially which are the greatest and best peopled In which are twelve Innes ordained for Students of our Common law whereof foure being very faire and large belong to the judiciall Courts the rest to the Chauncery besides two Innes moreover for the Serjeants at Law Herein such a number of young Gentlemen doe so painefully ply their bookes and study the Law that for frequency of Students it is not inferiour either to Angiers Cane or Orleance it selfe as Sir Iohn Fortescue in his small Treatise of the Lawes of England doth witnesse The said foure principall houses are The Inner Temple the Middle Temple Graies Inne and Lincolns Inne Those two former named stand in the very place where in times past during the Raigne of King Henry the Second Heraclius Patriarch of Jerusalem consecrated a Church for Knights Templars which they had newly built according to the forme of the Temple neere unto the Sepulchre of our Lord at Hierusalem For at their first institution about the yeare of our Lord 1113. they dwelt in part of the Temple hard by the Sepulchre whereof they were so named and vowed to defend Christian Religion the Holy Land and Pilgrimes going to visite the Lords Sepulchre against all Mahometans and Infidels professing to live in chastity and obedience whereupon all men most willingly and with right loving hearts embraced them so that through the bounteous liberality of Princes and devout people having gotten in all places very faire Possessions and exceeding great wealth they flourished in high reputation for Piety and Devotion yea and in the opinion both of the holinesse of the men and of the place King Henry the Third and many Noble men desired much to bee buryed in their Church among them Some of whose Images are there to bee seene with their legges acrosse For so they were buryed in that Age that had Taken upon them the Crosse as they then termed it to serve in the Holy Land or had vowed the same Among whom was William Marshall the elder a most powerfull man in his time William and Gilbert his sonnes Marshalles of England and Earles of Penbroch Upon William the elder his Tombe I some yeares since read in the upper part Comes Penbrochiae and upon side this Verse Miles eram Martis Mars multos vicerat armis Of Mars I was a doughty Knight Mars vanquished many a man in fight But in processe of time when with insatiable greedinesse they had hoorded great wealth by withdrawing tith's from churches appropriating spiritual livings to themselves and other hard meanes their riches turned to their ruine For thereby their former piety was after a manner stifled they fell at jarre with other religious orders their professed obedience to the Patriarch of Ierusalem was rejected envy among the common sort was procured which hope of gain among the better sort so enkindled that in the yeere of our salvation 1312. this order was condemned of impiety and by the Popes authority utterly abolished Howbeit their possessions were by authority of the Parliament assigned to the Hospitalier Knights of S. Iohn of Ierusalem least that such Lands given to pious and good uses against the Donours will should bee alienated to other uses And yet it is apparent out of ancient writings that this place after the expulsion of the Templers was the seat and habitation of Thomas Earle of Lancaster and of Sir Hugh Spenser King Edward the Second his minion afterwards of Sir Aimer de Valence Earle of Pembroch and in the end turned into two Colledges or Innes of Lawyers Of the rest of these Innes I have found nothing at all by reading But the generall voyce goeth that the one was the dwelling house of the Lord Greies of Wilton and the other of the Earles of Lincolne Nere unto this K. Henry the third erected betweene the New and the Old Temple an house of Converts for the maintenance of those that were converted from Iudaisme to the Christian Truth which King Edward the Third appointed afterwards for rolls and records to be kept therein and thereof at this day it is called The Rowls These Suburbs with houses standing close together and stately habitations of the Nobles and great Men of the Land along the Tamis side reach out as farre as to Westminster Among which these are the most memorable here Bride-well where King Henry the Eighth built a royall house for the entertainment of Charles the Fifth Emperour but now it is an House of Correction Buckhurst house or Salisbury Court belonging sometimes to the Bishops of Salisbury the White Freers or Carmelite Freers The Temples whereof I speake Then without the Bars Essex house built by the Lord Paget Arondel house before called Hampton place and Somerset house built by Edward Semer Duke of Somerset The Savoy so named of Peter Earle of Savoy who there dwelt which Queene Aeleonor wife to King Henry the Third purchased of the fraternity of Mont-joy and gave it to her Sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Whose Posterity dwelt in it a long time untill that King Henry the Seaventh dedicated it as an Hospitall for the Poore Worcester-house late Bedford-house Salisbury-house Durham-house built by Antony Becke Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem and thereby the onely ornament of this part the Britain-Burse built by the Earle of Salisbury and so named by King Iames Yorke-house in times past Bath-house and Northampton-house now begunne by Henry Earle of Northampton But what meane I to name these places 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 None claime them wholy for their owne Fortune disposeth them every one By this Suburbs Westminster which sometime was more than a mile distant is conjoyned so close unto the Citty of London that it seemeth a member thereof whereas it is a Citty of it selfe having their peculiar Magistrates and Priviledges It was called in times past Thorney of Thornes but now Westminster of the West situation
and the Monastery Most renowned it is for that Church the Hall of Iustice and the Kings Palace This Church is famous especially by reason of the Inauguration and Sepulture of the Kings of England Sulcard writeth that there stood sometimes a Temple of Apollo in that place and that in the dayes of Antoninus Pius Emperor of Rome it fell downe with an Earth-quake Out of the remaines whereof Sebert King of the East-Saxons erected another to Saint Peter which beeing by the Danes overthrowne Bishoppe Dunstane reedified and granted it to some few Monkes But afterwards King Edward surnamed the Confessour with the tenth penny of all his revenewes built it new for to be his owne sepulture and a Monastery for Benedictine Monkes endowing it with Livings and Lands lying dispersed in diverse parts of England But listen what an Historian faith who then lived The devout King destined unto God that place both for that it was nere unto the famous and wealthy Citty of London and also had a pleasant situation amongst fruitfull fields and greene grounds lying round about it and withall the principall River running hard by bringing in from all parts of the world great variety of Wares and Merchandize of all sorts to the Citty adjoyning But chiefly for the love of the chiefe Apostle whom he reverenced with a speciall and singular affection He made choise to have a place there for his owne Sepulchre and thereupon commanded that of the tenths of all his Rents the worke of a noble edifice should bee gone in hand with such as might beseeme the Prince of the Apostles To the end that he might procure the propitious favour of the Lord after he should finish the course of this transitory Life both in regard of his devout Piety and also of his free oblation of Lands and Ornaments wherewith hee purposed to endow and enrich the same According therefore to the Kings commandement the worke nobly beganne and happily proceeded forward neither the charges already disbursed or to bee disbursed are weighed and regarded so that it may bee presented in the end unto God and Saint Peter worth their acceptation The forme of that ancient building read if you please out of an old Manuscript booke The principall plot or ground-worke of the building supported with most lofty Arches is cast round with a foure square worke and semblable joynts But the compasse of the whole with a double Arch of stone on both sides is enclosed with joynd-worke firmely knit and united together every way Moreover the Crosse of the Church which was to compasse the midde Quire of those that chaunted unto the Lord and with a two-fold supportance that it had on either side to uphold and beare the lofty toppe of the Tower in the midst simply riseth at first with a low and strong Arch then mounteth it higher with many winding Staires artificially ascending with a number of steps But afterward with a single wall it reacheth up to the roofe of Timber well and surely covered with Lead But after an hundred and threescore yeeres King Henry the Third subverted this fabricke of King Edwards and built from the very foundation a new Church of very faire workemanship supported with sundry rowes of Marble pillars and the Rowfe covered over with sheets of Lead a peece of worke that cost fifty yeeres labour in building which Church the Abbots enlarged very much toward the West end and King Henry the Seventh for the buriall of himselfe and his children adjoyned thereto in the East end a Chappell of admirable artificiall elegancy The wonder of the World Leland calleth it for a man would say that all the curious and exquisite worke that can bee devised is there compacted wherein is to bee seene his owne most stately magnificall Monument all of solide and massie Copper This Church when the Monkes were driven thence from time to time was altered to and fro with sundry changes First of all it had a Deane and Prebendaries soone after one Bishop and no more namely T. Thurlebey who having wasted the Church Patrimony surrendred it to the spoile of Courtiers and shortly after were the Monks with their Abbot set in possession againe by Queene Mary and when they also within a while after were by authority of Parliament cast out the most gracious Prince Queene Elizabeth converted it into a Collegiat Church or rather into a Seminary and nurse-garden of the Church appointed twelve Prebendaries there and as many old Soldiers past service for Almes-men fourty Scholers who in their due time are preferred to the Universities and from thence sent foorth into the Church and Common-weale c. Over these she placed D. Bill Deane whose successour was D. Gabriel Goodman a right good man indeede and of singular integrity an especiall Patron of my studies Within this Church are entombed that I may note them also according to their dignity and time wherein they died Sebert the first of that name and first Christian King of the East-Saxons Harold the bastard son of Canutus the Dane King of England S. Edward King and Confessour with his wife Edith Maud wife to King Henry the First the daughter of Malcolme King of Scots King Henry the Third and his son King Edward the First with Aeleonor his wife daughter to Ferdinand● the first King of Castile and of Leon. King Edward the Third and Philippa of Henault his wife King Richard the Second and his wife Anne sister to Wenzelaus the Emperor King Henry the Fifth with Catharine his wife daughter to Charles the Sixt king of France Anne wife to king Richard the Third daughter to Richard Nevill Earle of Warwicke king Henry the Seventh with his wife Elizabeth daughter to king Edward the Fourth and his mother Margaret Countesse of Richmond king Edward the Sixth Anne of Cleve the fourth wife of king Henry the Eighth Queene Mary And whom we are not to speake of without praise The Love and Joy of England Queene ELIZABETH of Sacred memory our late Soveraigne and most gratious Lady a Prince matchlesse for her heroicke Vertues Wi●edome and Magnanimity above that Sexe rare knowledge and skill in the Tongues is here intombed in a sumptuous and stately Monument which king Iames of a pious minde erected to her memory But alas how litle is that Monument in regard of so Noble and worthy a Lady Who of her selfe is her owne Monument and that right magnificent For how great SHE was RELIGION REFORMED PEACE WELL GROUNDED MONEY REDUCED TO THE TRUE VALUE A NAVY PASSING WELL FURNISHED IN READINES HONOUR AT SEA RESTORED REBELLION EXTINGVISHED ENGLAND FOR THE SPACE OF XLIIII YEERS MOST WISELY GOVERNED ENRICHED AND FORTIFIED SCOTLAND FREED FROM THE FRENCH FRANCE RELIEVED NETHERLANDS SUPPORTED SPAINE AWED IRELAND QUIETED AND THE WHOLE GLOBE OF THE EARTH TWICE SAYLED ROUND ABOUT may with praise and admiraration testifie one day unto all Posterity and succeeding ages Of Dukes and Earles degree there ly here buried Edmund Earle of
money and Title by his wife Beatrice the eldest daughter of William de Say who was the sisters sonne of that great Geffrey de Magnavill the first Earle of Essex This Fitz-Petre a man as an old Authour writeth Passing well monied had formerly dealt with the Bishop of Ely the Kings chiefe Justicer for a great peece of money presently paid and by intreaty beside and then claimed and demanded the Earledome in his wives right as being the daughter of William Say eldest brother to Geffrey Say Who gave him full Seisin thereof against Geffrey Say and required the money that hee promised which within a short time hee received of him every penny well and truely paid for to bee brought into the Kings coffers Thus being admitted and confirmed by the Kings Letters Patent hee held and possessed it taking Homage of all that held of him in Knights service And so was girt with the sword of the Earledome of Essex by King John at the solemnity of his Coronation This Geffrey Fitz-Petre was advanced to the high estate of Justicer of England by King Richard the First when hee removed Hubert Archbishop of Canterbury from that Office by the Popes peremptory command for that Bishops ought not to intermedle in secular affaires This Place the said Geffrey Fitz-Petre executed with great commendation preserving by his wisedome the Realme from that confusion which it after fell into by King Johns unadvised carriage His two Sonnes Geffrey and William assumed unto them the sirname of Magnavill or Mandevill and enjoyed this honour successively As for Geffrey hee by his wife was Earle of Glocester also and being a young man lost his life at a Turneament William tooke part with Lewis of France against King John and departed out of this World without issue These being thus dead childelesse their sisters sonne Humfrey de Bohun Earle of Hereford and high Constable of England succeeded in their roome Of this mans Posterity male there succeeded many yeares together one after another Earles of H●reford and of Essex of whom I will speake among the Earles of Hereford seeing that they wrote themselves Earles of Hereford and of Essex Aeleonor the eldest daughter of the last of these Bohuns being given in marriage together with the Title of Essex unto Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester bare unto him a daughter named Anne who had for her first Husband Edmund Earle of Stafford from whom came the Dukes of Buckingham and for her second Sir William Bourchier unto whom King Henry the Fifth gave the Earledome of Ew in Normandie This William of her body begat Henry Bourchier whom King Edward the fourth invested in the Dignity of the Earledome of Essex in regard hee had marryed his Aunt and was descended from Thomas of Woodstocke Hee had to succeede him another Henry his Grand-childe who being cast out of the sadle by a flinging horse lost his life leaving behinde him one onely daughter Anne who being then little respected King Henry the Eighth presently and all at once made Thomas Cromwell whom hee had used as his Instrument to suppresse and abolish the Popes authority Earle of Essex Lord Great Chamberlaine of England and Knight of the Order of Saint George whom before for his reaching politique head hee had made Baron Cromwell of Ok●ham The Kings Vicar generall in Spirituall matters and Lord of the Privie Seale and all these honours were heaped upon him within the compasse of five yeares But in the fifth moneth after hee was Earle hee lost his head and so had the enterlude of his life a bloudy Catastrophe as most of these have who are busie managers of the greatest affaires And then the same King thought Sir William Parr upon whom hee had bestowed in marriage Anne the onely daughter and heire of the foresaid Henry Bour●●ier worthy also to be entituled Earle of Essex But at the last after Parr was dead without issue Walter D'Eureux Vicount Hereford whose great Grandmother was Cecilie Bourgchier Sister to Henrie Bourgchier whom I named right now through the gracious favour of Queene Elizabeth received this dignitie of the Earledome of Essex and left it to his Sonne Robert Who being adorned with singular gifts of nature and supported besides with the speciall favour of his most gracious Prince grew so fast unto such honour that all England conceived good hope hee would have fully equalled yea and farre surpassed the greatest vertues and praises of all his Progenitours But alas whiles he was carried away with popularity and made hast to out goe his hopes hee cast himselfe headlong into destruction as many more have done who despising that which might come by patience with securitie have made choise to hasten thereto before time with their finall overthrow But our most gracious Soveraigne King Iames of his Royall benignitie hath restored his sonne Robert to his bloud and honours by Parliament authority There be counted in this County Parish Churches 415. ICENI THe Region next unto the Trinobantes which afterwards was called East-England and containeth Suffolke Norfolke and Cambridge-shire with Huntingdon-shire was inhabited in times past by the ICENI called elsewhere amisse TIGENI and in Ptolomee more corruptly SIMENI whom also I have thought hee●etofore to have been in Caesar by a confused name termed CENIMAGNI and so to thinke induced I was partly by that most neere affinity betweene these names ICENI and CENI-MAGNI and in part by the consent of Caesar and Tacitus together For Caesar writeth that the Cenimagni yeelded themselves unto the Romans which Tacitus recordeth that the Iceni likewise did in these words They willingly joyned in amity with us But that which maketh most to the cleering of this poynt in a Manuscript old booke for CENIMAGNI we finde written with the word divided in twaine CENIAGNI For which if I might not be thought somewhat too bould a Criticke I would reade instead thereof ICENI REGNI Neither verily can you finde the Cenimagni elsewhere in all Britain if they be a diverse people from the Iceni and Regni But of this name ICENI there remaine in this tract very many footings if I may so tearme them as Ikensworth Ikenthorpe Ikbortow Iken Ikining Ichlingham Eike c. Yea and that high street-way which went from hence the Historians of the former age every where doe name Ichenild-Street as one would say the Icenes street What should be the reason of this name so love me Truth I dare not guesse unlesse one would fetch it from the Wedge-like-forme of the country and say it lieth Wedgwise vpon the Sea For the Britans in their language call a Wedge Iken and for the same cause a place in Wales by the Lake or Meere Lhintegid is of that forme named Lhan-yken as Welsh-Britans enformed me and in the very same sense a little country in Spaine as Strabo writeth is cleped SPHEN that is The wedge and yet the same seemeth not to resemble a wedge so neere as this of
number of pooles two or three miles over Which Fennes doe afford to a multitude of Monkes their wished private retyrings of a recluse and solitary life wherein as long as they are enclosed they need not the solitarinesse of any desert Wildernesse Thus farre Abbo SVFFOL●IAE Comitatus cuius Populi olim ic●m Dicti Continens inse oppida mercatoria xxv Pagos et Villas CCCCLXIIII Vna cum singulis Hundredis et fluminibus in code●e Auc Fore Christ●ph●r● Saxton SOUTH-FOLKE or SUFFOLKE SUFFOLKE which wee must speake of first in the Saxon Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is South-folke or people in respect of Northfolke hath on the West side Cambridge-shire on the South the River Stoure which divideth it from Essex on the East side the German Sea and on the North two little Rivers Ouse the least and Waveney which flowing out as it were of the same Fountaine runne divers wayes and sever it apart from Norfolke A large country it is and full of havens of a fat and fertile Soile unlesse it be Eastward being compounded as it is of clay and marle by meanes whereof there are in every place most rich and goodly corne fields with pastures as battable for grazing and feeding of cattell And great store of cheeses are there made which to the great commodity of the Inhabitants are vented into all parts of England Nay into Germany France and Spaine also as Pantaleon the Physitian writeth who stucke not to compare these of ours for color and tast both with those of Placentia but he was no dainty toothed scholar out of Apicius schoole Neither bee there wanting woods heere which have beene more plentifull and parkes for many there are lying to Noble mens and Gentlemens houses replenished with game This County was divided politically into three parts whereof one is called the Geldable because out of it there is gathered a Tribute a second Saint Edmunds liberty for that it belonged to his Abbay the third Saint Audries liberty because it appertained to Ely Abbay unto which our Kings in times past granted certaine territories with Sach and Soch as saith Ely Booke without any exception either of Ecclesiasticall or secular jurisdiction But let us survey it Chorographically and beginning at the East side take a view of the better and more remarkeable places Where it lyeth West and toward Cambridgeshire in the very limite standeth Ixning more famous in times past than now For Audre the Virgin K. Annas daughter and canonized for a Saint was heere borne Ralph also Earle of this East England heere entred into conspiracy against William the Conquerour and Hervey the first Bishop of Ely made a causey or high way from hence to Ely But now for that Newmercate is so neer whither men resort with their wares and commodities more frequently it hath begunne to decay That this Newmercate is a Towne of late dayes built the very name it selfe doth import and it is situate in such sort that the South part therof belongeth to Cambridgeshire the North side to Suffolke and both of them have their severall small Churches whereof this acknowledgeth Ixning the former Ditton or Dichton for their mother Heereof I have found by reading nothing but that under King Henry the Third Sir Robert L' Isle gave one part of it in franke marriage with his daughter Cassandra unto Sir Richard de Argenton from whom the Alingtons are descended Heere lyeth out a great way round about a large Plaine named of this Towne Newmarket Heath consisting of a sandy and barren ground yet greene withall wherein is to bee seene that wonderfull Ditch which as if it had beene cast by the devill the common sort call Devils Dike whereas in very trueth most certainly it is knowne to be one of them wherewith the Inhabitants as Abbo writeth fenced themselves against the inrodes of their enemies as shall bee shewed more at large when we are come to Cambridgeshire Yet in the meane time I am heere to advertise the Reader that the least of all these ditches sheweth it selfe two miles from hence betweene Snaile-well and Moulton More within the Country is that renowned Towne of Saint Edmund which in the Saxons age men called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in the time of the Britans as it should seeme was that VILLA FAUSTINI whereof Antonine maketh mention for of that opinion was Talbot a man right skilfull in antiquities and very much conversant in this part of England The distance also as well from the Iciani as from Colonia in Antonine agreeth well enough And as Villa in the Latine Tongue signifieth some Gentlemans house standing upon his land so 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in old English betokened the same For that Abbo aforesaid interpreteth Bederics-gueord by these words Bederici Cortis that is Villa that is to say Bederics-Court Farme or Mansion house Besides that the Englishmen may seeme to have brought the significancy of that Latine word into their owne Language For as Faustinus in Latin implieth a certaine meaning of prosperity so doth Bederic in the German tongue as writeth that most learned Hadrianus Iunius where he interpreteth the name of Betorix who in Strabo was the sonne of Melo the Sicambrian Full of happinesse and favour But if these were divers persons I willingly confesse that I am ignorant who that Faustinus and who this Bedericus was Sure I am that it was not that VILLA FAUSTINI which Martiall in his Epigrammes depainteth and if I said it was the habitation of that Beric who being driven out of Britaine as Dio writeth persuaded the Emperour Claudius to warre upon the Britans I should not beleeve my selfe But whatsoever it was if it be not that Faustini Villa yet seemeth it to have beene of famous memory considering that when Christian Religion began to spring up in this Tract King Sigebert here founded a Church and Abbo called it Villam regiam that is A royall towne But after that the people had translated hither the body of Edmund that most Christian King whom the Danes with exquisite torments had put to death and built in honour of him a very great Church wrought with a wonderfull frame of timber it beganne to bee called Edmundi Burgus commonly Saint Edmundbury and more shortly Bury and flourished marveilous much But especially since that King Canutus for to expiate the sacrilegious impiety of his father Suenus against this Church being affrighted with a vision of Saint Edmunds built it againe of a new worke enriched it offered his owne Crowne unto the holy Martyr brought into it Monkes with their Abbot and gave unto it many faire and large Manours and among other things the Towne it selfe full and whole over which the Monkes themselves by their Seneschall had rule and jurisdiction Whereupon Ioscelin de Branklond a Monke of this house writeth thus The men as well without the Burgh as within are ours and all within Banna Leuca enjoy the same libertie
which he had overrunne by robbing and ransacking From hence Breton speedeth it selfe by Higham whence the family of Higham is so named to Stour which joyntly in one streame runne not farre from Bentley where the Talmachs of a celebrate ancient house flourished for a long time and after a few miles neere unto Arwerton the house long since of the family of the Bacons who held this Manour and Brome by conducting all the footemen of Suffolke and Norfolke from S. Edmunds dike in the warres of Wales Now it belongeth to the Parkers haereditarily who by the Fathers side derive their descent from the Barons Morley and by the Mothers from the Calthrops a Family sometime of great account in these parts Beneath this Stour falleth into the Ocean and at the very mouth thereof the river Orwell or Gipping dischargeth it selfe together with it This River springeth up in the very navell or centre as one would say of this shire out of two fountaines the one neere to Wulpet the other by Gipping a small Village Wulpet is a Mercat towne and soundeth as much as The Wolves pit if wee may beleeve Nubrigensis who hath told as prety and formall a tale of this place as is that fable called the TRUE NARRATION of Lucian namely how two little Boyes forsooth of a greene colour and of Satyrs kinde after they had made a long journey by passages under the ground from out of another world from the Antipodes and Saint Martins Land came up heere of whom if you would know more repayre to the Author himselfe where you shall finde such matter as will make you laugh your fill if you have a laughing spleene I wote not whether I were best to relate here into what a vaine hope of finding gold at Norton hard by a certaine credulous desire of having enticed and allured king Henry the Eight but the digging and undermining there sufficiently shew it although I say nothing But between Gipping and Wulpet upon an high hill remain the tokens of Hawhglee an ancient Castle taking up much about two Acres of ground Some affirme this to have beene called Hagoneth Castle which belonged to Ralph le Broc and that in the yeere 1173. it was by Robert Earle of Leicester won and overthrowne in the intestine warre betweene king Henry the Second and his unkindely disloyall sonne Upon the same River are seene two little Mercat Townes Stow and Needham and not farre from the banke Hemingston in which Baldwin Le Pettour marke his name well held certaine lands by Serjeanty the words I have out of an old booke for which on Christmasse day every yeere before our soveraigne Lord the King of England he should performe one Saltus one Suffletus and one Bumbulus or as wee read elsewhere his tenour was per saltum sufflum pettum that is if I understand these tearmes aright That hee should daunce puffe up his cheekes making therewith a sound and besides let a cracke downeward Such was the plaine and jolly mirth of those times And observed it is that unto this Foe the Manour of Langhall belonged Neere unto the mouth of this river we saw Ipswich in times past Gippwich a faire towne resembling a Citty situate in a ground somewhat low which is the eye as it were of this shire as having an Haven commodious enough fenced in times past with a trench and rampire of good trade and stored with wares well peopled and full of Inhabitants adorned with foureteene Churches and with goodly large and stately edifices I say nothing of foure religious houses now overturned and that sumptuous and magnificent Colledge which Cardinall Wolsey a Butchers sonne of this place here began to build whose vast minde reached alwayes at things too high The body politike or corporation of this towne consisteth as I was enformed of twelve Burgesses Portmen they terme them out of whom are chosen yeerely for the head Magistrates two Baillives and as many Justices out of foure and twenty others As touching the Antiquity thereof so farre as ever I could observe the name of it was not heard of before the Danish invasion whereof it smarted For in the yeere of salvation 991. the Danes sacked and spoyled it and all the Sea coast with so great cruelty that Siritius Archbishop of Canterbury and the Nobles of England thought it the safest and best course they could take to redeeme and buy their peace of them for the summe of ten thousand pounds Neverthelesse within nine yeeres they made spoyle of this towne againe and presently thereupon the Englishmen valiantly encountred them in the field but through the cowardly running away of one man alone named Turkill as writeth Henry of Huntingdon for in matter of warre things of small weight otherwise are of right great moment and sway very much our men were put to flight and let the victory slip out of their hands In the reigne of S. Edward as we finde in the Survey booke of England out of this towne Queene Edeva had two parts and Earle Guert a third part and Burgesses there were eight hundred paying custome to the King But after the Normans had possessed themselves of England they erected a pile or Castle here which Hugh Bigod defended for a good while against Stephen the usurping King of England but surrendred it in the end This fort is now quite gone so as there remaine not so much as the ruines thereof Some say it was in the parish of Westfield hard by where is to be seene the rubbish of a Castle and where old Gipwic as men say stood in times past I thinke verely it was then demolished when K. Henry the second laied Waleton Castle neer unto it even with the ground For it was a place of refuge for Rebels and here landed those three thousand Flemings whom the nobles of Englād had called in against him what time as he unadvisedly hee had made Prince Henry his sonne King and of equall power with himselfe and the young man knowing no meane would bee in the highest place or none set upon a furious desire of the Kingdome most unnaturally waged warre against his owne father Albeit these Castles are now cleane decaied and gone yet this Shore is defended sufficiently with an huge banke they call it Langerston that for two miles or thereabout in length lyeth forth into the maine Sea as hee saith not without great danger and terrour of such as saile that way howbeit the same serveth very well for Fishermen to dry their fishes and after a sort is a defence unto that spatious and wide Haven of Orwell And thus much for the South part of this Shire From hence the curving Shore for all this East part lyeth full against the Sea shooting forth Northward straight-way openeth it selfe to the Deben a Riveret having his spring-head neere unto Mendelesham unto which Towne the Lord of the place H. Fitz Otho Master
a great summe of money and pledges withall of his loyalty that it might not be overthrowne and rased Not farre thence from the banke you may see Mettingham where upon a plaine Sir Iohn sirnamed De Norwich Lord of the place built a foure square Castle and a Colledge within it whose daughter and in the end the Heire of the same Family Robert de Vfford aforesaid Earle of Suffolke tooke to Wife with a goodly Inheritance Now Waveney drawing neerer unto the Sea whiles hee striveth in vaine to make himselfe a twofold issue into the Ocean the one together with the River Yare and the other by the meere Luthing maketh a pretty big Demy Isle or Biland which some name Lovingland others more truely Luthingland of Luthing the lake spreading in length and bredth which beginning at the Ocean Shore is discharged into the River Yare At the entrance whereof standeth upon the Sea Lestoffe a narrow and little Towne and at the issue of it Gorlston where I saw the towre steeple of a small suppressed Friery which standeth the Sailers in good stead for a marke Within the land hard by Yare is situate Somerley towne the habitation in ancient time of Fitz Osbert from whom it is come lineally to the worshipfull ancient family of the Iernegans Knights of high esteeme in these parts farther up into the land where Yare and Waveney meet in one streame there flourished Cnobersburg that is as Bede interprereth it Cnobers City we call it at this day Burgh-Castle Which as Bede saith was a most pleasant Castle by reason of woods and Sea together wherein a Monastery was built by Fursaey a holy Scot by whose perswasion Sigebert King of the East-Angles became a Monke and resigned up his Kingdome who afterwards being drawne against his will out of this Monastery to encourage his people in battaile against the Mercians together with his company lost his life In that place now there are only ruinous wals in forme as it were foure square built of flint stone and British Bricke but all overgrown with briers and bushes among which otherwhiles are Romane peeces of coines gotten forth So that it may seeme to have been one of those fortifications that the Romans placed upon the River Y are to represse the piracies of the Saxons or rather that it was the ancient GARIANONUM it selfe where the Stablesian Horsemen had their Station and kepe Ward at the declination of the Romane Empire in Brittaine Suffolke hath had Earles and Dukes out of sundry families There bee of the later writers who report that the Glanvils in times past were honoured with this title But seeing they ground upon no certain authority whereas men may easily mistake and I have found nothing of them in the publike records of the Kingdome they must pardon me if I beleeve them not untill they produce more certainty Yet in the meane while I confesse that the family of the Glanvils in this tract was of right good note and high reputation Neither have I hitherto learned by witnesses of credite that any one was entituled Earle of this Province severally before the daies of King Edward the Third who created Sir Robert Vfford Earle of Suffolke a man much renowned both in peace and warre the sonne of Sir Robert Vfford Steward of the Kings house under King Edward the Second by Cecily de Valoniis Lady of Orford After him succeeded his sonne William who having foure sonnes that were taken away by untimely death during his life died himselfe suddenly in the Parliament house as he was about to report the minde of the Commonalty And then Sir Robert Willoughby Roger Lord Scales and Henrie Ferrars of Groby the next of his blood and his Heires divided the Inheritance betweene them Afterward King Richard the Second promoted Michael De-la-Pole to this Title and made him L. Chancellor of England Who as Thomas Walsingham writeth imployed himselfe more in trafficke and Merchandise as having beene a Merchant and a Merchants sonne than in martiall matters For he was the sonne of William De-la-pole that first Maior of Kyngston upon Hull and for his wealthy Estate adorned by King Edward the Third with the dignity of a Baneret But when as in the prosperous confluence of so many advancements the mans nature was not capable of so great fortunes he was enforced by his adversaries envy to depart out of his Country and so died a banished man His sonne Michael being restored died at the siege of Harflew and againe within one moneth his son Michael was slaine in the battell of Agincourt leaving daughters onely Then William his brother succeeded whom King Henry the sixt so favoured that hee made him also Earle of Penbroke and then Marquesse of Suffolke to him and the heires males of his body And that both hee and the heires of his body should carry the golden rod having a Dove in the top thereof on the Coronation day of the King of England and the like rod or verge Yuory at the Coronation of the Queenes of England And afterwards hee advanced the same William for his great service and deserts to the honour and title of Duke of Suffolke Certes hee was an excellent man in those dayes famous and of great worth For whereas his father and three brethren had in the French wars lost their lives for their Country he as we finde in the Parliament Rols of the 28. of King Henry the Sixth in the same war served full 34. yeeres For seventeene yeeres together he never returned home from warfare being once taken prisoner when he was as yet no better than a private Knight hee paid downe for his ransome twenty thousand pounds of our English mony hee was of the Kings privy Counsell 15. yeeres and a Knight of the Order of the Garter 30. Hereupon as he stood in especiall grace and favour with his Prince so he incurred therefore the greater envy of the common people and some emulatours being grievously charged with treason and misprisions And therefore called before the King and Lords of the Parliament after he had answered the Articles objected referred himselfe to the Kings order Whereupon the Chancellor by the Kings commandement pronounced that whereas the Duke did not put himselfe upon his Peeres the King touching the Articles of treason would be doubtfull and as for the Articles of misprision not as a Judge by advice of the Lords but as one to whose order the Duke had submitted himselfe did banish him the realme and all other his dominions for five yeeres But when he was embarked for France he was by his adversaries intercepted upon the sea and beheaded He left a son nam'd Iohn De-la-Pole who wedded K. Edward the fourth his sister and of her begate Iohn Earle of Lincolne by K. Richard the Third proclaimed heire apparant of the Crowne whose ambitious minde puffed up and giddy therewith could not containe it selfe but soone after brake out
people but now having lost the old name it is called Caster And no marvaile that of the three VENTAE Cities of Britain this onely lost the name seeing it hath quite lost it selfe For beside the ruines of the Walles which containe within a square plot or quadrant about thirty acres and tokens appearing upon the ground where sometimes houses stood and some few peeces of Romane money which are now and then there digged up there is nothing at all remaining But out of this ancient VENTA in the succeeding ages Norwich had her beginning about three miles from hence neere unto the confluents of Yare and another namelesse River some call it Bariden where they meet in one which River with a long course running in and out by Fakenham which King Henry the first gave to Hugh Capell and King John afterward to the Earle of Arundell and making many crooked reaches speedeth it selfe this way by Attilbridge to Yare and leaveth Horsford North from it where a Castle of William Cheneys who in the Raigne of Henry the Second was one of the great Lords and chiefe Peeres of England lieth overgrowne with bushes and brambles This NORVVICH is a famous City called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a Northerly Creeke if Wic among the Saxons signifieth the creeke or Cove of a River as Rhenanus sheweth unto us for in this very place the River runneth downe amaine with a crooked and winding compasse or a Northerne Station if Wic as Hadrianus Iunius would have it betokeneth a sure and secure station or place of aboad where dwelling houses stand joyntly and close together or a Northerly Castle if Wic sound as much as Castle as our Archbishop Alfrick the Saxon hath interpreted it But if I should with some others be of opinion that Norwich by a little turning is derived from Venta what should I doe but turne awry from the very truth For by no better right may it challenge unto it selfe the name of Venta than either Basil in Germany the name of AUGUSTA or Baldach of BABYLON For like as Baldach had the beginning of Babylons fall and Basil sprang from the ruine of Augusta even so our Norwich appeared and shewed it selfe though it were late out of that ancient VENTA which the British name thereof Caer Guntum in Authours doth prove wherein like as in the River Wentsum or Wentfar the name of Venta doth most plainely discover it selfe For this name Norwich wee cannot reade of any where in our Chronicles before the Danish warres So farre is it off that either Caesar or Guiteline the Britain built it as they write who are more hasty to beleeve all than to weigh matters with sound judgement But now verily by reason of the wealth the number of Inhabitants and resort of people the faire buildings and faire Churches and those so many for it containeth about thirty Parishes the painefull industry of the Citizens their loyalty towards their Prince and their courtesie unto strangers it is worthily to bee ranged with the most celebrate Cities of Britaine It is right pleasantly situate on the side of an Hill two and fifty Degrees and forty Scrupuls from the Aequator and foure and twenty Degrees and five and fifty Scrupuls in Longitude The forme is somewhat long lying out in length from South to North a mile and an halfe but carrying in breadth about halfe so much drawing it selfe in by little and little at the South end in manner as it were of a cone or sharpe point Compassed it is about with strong walles in which are orderly placed many Turrets and twelve gates unlesse it bee on the East-side where the River after it hath with many windings in and out watered the North part of the City having foure Bridges for men to passe to and fro over it is a Fence thereto with his deepe Chanell there and high steepe bankes In the very infancy as I may so say of this City when Etheldred a witlesse and unadvised Prince raigned Sueno or Swan the Dane who ranged at his pleasure through England with a great rable of spoiling Ravenours first put it to the sacke and afterwards set it on fire Yet it revived againe and as wee reade in that Domesday booke wherein William the Conquerour tooke the review of all England there were by account in King Edward the Confessours time no fewer than one thousand three hundred and twenty Burgesses in it At which time that I may speake out of the same Booke It paid unto the King twenty pounds and to the Earle ten pounds and beside all this twenty shillings and foure Prebendaries and sixe Sextars of Hony also a Beare and sixe Dogges for to bait the Beare but now it paieth seventy pounds by weight to the King and an hundred shillings for a Gersume to the Queene and an ambling Palfrey also twenty pounds Blanc to the Earle and twenty shillings for a Gersume by tale But while the said King William raigned that flaming fire of fatall sedition which Raulph Earle of East England had kindled against the King settled it selfe heere For when hee had saved himselfe by flight his wife together with the French Britons endured in this place a most grievous Siege even to extreme famine yet at length driven she was to this hard pinch that she fled the land and this City was so empaired that scarce 560. Burgesses were left in it as we reade in that Domesday booke Of this yeelding up of the City Lanfrank Archbishop of Canterbury maketh mention in his Epistle to King William in these words Your Kingdome is purged of these villanous and filthy Britons The Castle of Norwich is rendred up into your hands And the Britons who were therein and had lands in England having life and limme granted unto them are sworne within forty dayes to depart out of your Realme and not enter any more into it without your leave and licence From that time beganne it againe to recover it selfe by little and little out of this diluge of calamities and Bishop Herbert whose good name was cracked for his foule Simony translated the Episcopall See from Thetford hither and built up a very faire Cathedral Church on the East side and lower part of the City in a certaine place then called Cow-holme neere unto the Castle The first stone whereof in the Raigne of King William Rufus and in the yeare after Christs Nativity 1096. himselfe laid with this inscription DOMINUS HERBERTUS POSUIT PRIMUM LAPIDEM IN NOMINE PATRIS FILII ET SPIRITUS SANCTI AMEN That is LORD BISHOP HERBERT LAID THE FIRST STONE IN THE NAME OF THE FATHER THE SONNE AND HOLY GHOST AMEN Afterwards he procured of Pope Paschal that it should be established and confirmed for the Mother Church of Norfolke and Suffolke he endowed it bountifully with as much lands as might sufficiently maintaine threescore Monkes who had there faire and spacious Cloysters
Waveney that divideth Norfolke and Suffolke the cawsey thereby and other works of piety deserved well of the Church his Country and the Common-weale and planted three houses of his owne Issue out of the second whereof Sir Henry Hobart his great Grandchilde now likewise Atturney Generall to King Iames is lineally descended Now Yare approching neerer to the Sea runneth downe Southward that so it may shed it selfe more gently into the salt sea waves and thereby maketh a little languet of land like a tongue thrust out which it selfe of one side watereth and the Sea on the other beateth upon On this languet I saw standing in a most open plaine shore Yarmouth in the English-Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Yares-mouth a very convenient Haven and as faire a Towne beautifully built and passing well fensed both by the naturall strength of the place and also by the skilfull industry of mans Art For although it bee environed almost round with Water on the West side with the River which hath a Draw Bridge over it and from other Partes with the Ocean unlesse it bee Northward where there is firme land yet is it in most sightly manner enclosed with a good strong wall which together with the River make a square forme of foure sides but somewhat long upon which wall beside Towres there is cast a mount toward the East from whence the great Peeces of Ordnance use to thunder and flash all about into the Sea under it which is scarce 60. paces off It hath indeed but one Church yet the same is very large having a passing high spire steeple to adorne it built by Herbert Bishop of Norwich hard by the North gate under which are to be seene the foundations brought above ground of a goodly peece of worke to enlarge the same That this was that old Towne GARIANONUM where in times past the Stablesian Horsemen kept their standing watch and ward against the barbarous enemies I dare not affirme neither doe I thinke that Garianonum was where Caster is now in times past the faire seat of Sir Iohn Fastolfe a most martiall knight and now appertaining to the Pastons albeit it is much celebrated among the Inhabitants for the antiquity thereof and the fame goeth that the River Y are had another mouth or passage into the Sea under it But as I am perswaded that GARIANONUM stood at Burgh-castle in Suffolke which is on the other banke about two miles off so I am easily induced to thinke that both Yarmouth arose out of the ruines thereof and also that the said Caster was one of the Roman Forts placed also upon the mouth of Yare that now is stopped up For like as the North Westerne Winde doth play the Tyrant upon Holland over against it and by drift of Shelves and Sand-heapes hath choked the middest of the Rhene-mouthes even so the North-East Winde afflicteth and annoieth this Coast and driveth the sand on heapes so as it may seeme to have dammed up this mouth also Neither will it be prejudiciall to the Truth if I should name our Yarmouth GARIANONUM being so neere adjoyning as it is unto the old Garianonum considering that Gorienis the River whence it tooke the name having now changed his chanell entreth into the maine Sea a little beneath this Towne which it hath also given name unto For I must needs confesse that this our Yarmouth is of later memory For when that ancient Garianonum aforesaid was decayed and there was no Garrison to defend the Shore Cerdick a warlike Saxon landed here whereupon the Inhabitants at this day call the place Cerdick-sand and the Writers of Histories Cerdick-shore and after hee had made sore war upon the Iceni tooke Sea and sailed from hence into the West parts where he erected the Kingdome of the West Saxons And not long after the Saxons in stead of Garianonum founded a new Towne in that moist and waterish ground neer the West side of the River and named it Yarmouth But finding the Situation thereof not to be healthfull they betooke themselves to the other side of the River called then of the same Cerdicke Cerdick-sand and built this new Towne in which there flourished in King Edward the Confessour his daies 70. Burgesses as wee finde recorded in the Notitia of England After this about the yeare of our Redemption 1340. the Townesmen strengthned it with a wall and in short space it grew so rich and puissant that oftentimes in seafights they set upon their neighbors of Lestoffe yea and the Portmen for so termed they the Inhabitants of the Cinque Ports not without much bloud shed on both sides For they were most spitefully bent against them haply for being excluded out of the number of the Cinque Ports and deprived of these priviledges which old Garianonum or Yarmouth and their Ancestours enjoyed under the Comes of the Saxon Shore in elder times But this their stoutnesse was repressed at length and taken downe by the Kings Authority or as some thinke their lusty courage became abated by that most grievous and lamentable plague which in one yeare within this one little Towne brought 7000. to their graves The which is witnessed by an ancient Latine Chronographicall Table hanging up in the Church wherein are set downe also their warres with the Portmen and Lestoffians aforesaid Since that time their hearts have not beene so haughty nor their wealth so great to make them bold howbeit painfully they follow the trade of Merchandise and taking of Herrings which the learned thinke to bee Chalcides and Leucomaewides a kinde of fish more plentifull heere than in any other Coast of the world againe For it may seeme incredible how great a Faire and with what resort of people is holden heere at the Feast of Saint Michael and what store of Herrings and other fish is then bought and sold. At which time they of the Cinque Ports abovesaid by an old order and custome appoint their Bailiffs Commissioners and send them hither who that I may speake out of their owne Patent or Commission together with the Magistrates of this Towne during the time of the free Faire hold a Court for matters concerning the Faire doe execute the Kings Iustice and keepe the Kings peace As for the Haven below the Towne it is very commodious both for the inhabitants and for Norwich-men also but for feare that it should be barred and stopped up they wrestle as it were to their great cost and charges with the maine Sea which to make them amends and to restore what it hath eaten and swallowed up elsewhere in this Shore hath by heaping of earth and sand together cast up here of late a prety Island At this mouth also another River which some call Thyrn sheddeth it selfe together with Yare into the sea This River springing up neere unto Holt a towne so called of an
Holt or tuft of trees and for the Mercat well knowne running about five miles distant from Yare holdeth on a joynt course a great way and keepeth pace with him by Blickling now the seat of the ancient Family of Clere who in former times dwelt at Ormesby and by Ailesham a Mercat Towne of good resort where the Earle of Athole in Scotland had lands not farre from Worsted whereas I reade the Stuffe Worsted in so great request amongst our Ancestours was first made and hence so named as Dornicks Cameric Calecut c. had in like manner their denomination from the places where they were first invented and made Then passeth Thyrn nere the decayed great Abbay called Saint Benet in the Holme which Knut the Dane built and the Monkes afterward so strengthned with most strong wals and bulwarks that it seemed rather a Castle than a Cloister In so much that William the Conquerour could not winne it by assault untill a Monke betraied it into his hands upon this condition that himselfe might bee made Abbot thereof Which was done accordingly but forthwith this new Abbot for being a Traitour as the Inhabitants make report was hanged up by the Kings commandement and so justly punished for this treason But the ground in this Island or Holme is so fenny and rotten that if a man cut up the strings and rootes of trees and shrubs there growing it floteth aloft on the water and is ready to follow one whither he will have it And some there be who thinke by the Perwinkles and Cocles that other while are digged up there that the Sea had broken in thither From thence runneth this River downe by Ludham an house of the Bishops of Norwich and by Clipsby which gave name to a Family of ancient note in his Tract and straightway uniteth his owne streame with the Yare From the mouth of Yare the shore goeth directly as it were North to Winterton a point or cape very well knowne to Sailers which tooke that name I suppose of the cold and winterly Situation For it lieth full upon the Ocean the father of windes and cold who with exceeding violence rusheth against the bankes and piles that are opposed against him Howbeit the Country adjoyning round about in many mens opinion hath the fattest Soile and softest mould of any country in all England as which asketh least labour and yeeldeth most fruit For with a silly jade as Plinie writeth of Bizacium in Africke and a poore old woman at one side of the yoake drawing the plough it is easily broken up and eared From Winterton immediately the shore turning Westward the sea retireth without any bearing out in manner at all along a flat and low coast as farre as to Eccles which is almost overflowed and drowned with the Ocean From thence it carrieth an higher shore by Bronholme sometime a Priory founded and enriched by G. Glanvill and seated upon the sharpe top of an hill the Crosse whereof our ancestours had in holy reverence I know not for what miracles Next it is Paston a small townlet which yet hath given sirname to a Family growne great both in Estate and alliance since they matched with an Heiresse of Beary and Maultbye Not far hence is Gimmingham which with other Manors John Earle of Warren and Surrie gave in times past to Thomas Earle of Lancaster and by Cromer where the neighbour Inhabitants with great expense went about to make an Havenet but to small purpose the Ocean so furiously played the Tyrant and made resistance Thence the Shore runneth forth to Wauburne-hope a Creeke fortified in our time so called of Wauburne a little Towne unto which by the intercession of Oliver de Burdeaux King Edward the Second granted the Liberty of keeping a Mercat Next unto it is Clay and over against it with a little River running betweene Blackney our Country man Bale calleth it Nigeria a famous House of Carmelite Friers in this late age afore going built by Sir Robert de Roos Sir Robert Bacon and John Bret out of which came John Baconthorp so named of the place of his nativity which now is the habitation of the Heidons an ancient Race of Knights degree A man in that age of such variety and depth withall of excellent learning that hee was had in exceeding great admiration among the Italians and commonly called The Resolute Doctor Whence it is that Paulus Pansa thus writeth of him If thy minde stand to enter into the secret power of the Almighty and most mercifull God no man hath written of his Essence more exactly If any man desireth to learne the causes of things or the effects of Nature if hee wish to know the sundry motions of Heaven and the contrary qualities of the Elements this man offereth himselfe as a store-house to furnish him The Armour of Christian Religion of better proofe and defence than those of Vulcans making against the Iewes this resolute Doctour alone hath delivered c. When you are past Wauburne the Coast lieth more low and flat as farre as to Saint Edmunds Point cut through and distinguished with many a rillet and hardly defended from the injury of the Sea by heapes of sand which they use to call Meales opposed against it More within the Country is Walsingham scarce foure miles from hence whereupon it is that of the vicinity unto the Sea Erasmus calleth it Parathalassia Very famous now is this Village by reason of the best Saffron growing there but of late time as much renowned through all England for a Pilgrimage to our Ladie the Virgin Mary whom hee who had not in that former Age visited and presented with offerings was reputed irreligious But this shall Erasmus an eye-witnesse describe in his owne very words Not farre from the Sea saith hee about foure miles there standeth a Towne living almost of nothing else but upon the resort of Pilgrimes There is a Colledge of Chanons yet such as unto whom the Latinists have given the addition of Regulares a middle kinde betwixt Monkes and those Chanons whom they terme Secular This Colledge hath scarce any other Revenewes than from the liberality of the said Virgin For certaine of the greater Presents and Oblations are layed up and preserved But if there be any money offered or ought else of small value that goeth unto the maintenance of the Covent and their Head or President whom they call Prior. The Church is faire and neat yet in it the Virgin dwelleth not that honour forsooth shee hath done unto her Sonne shee hath her Church by her selfe but so as that shee may bee on the right hand of her Sonne Neither doth shee dwell heere for all this for why the Building is not yet finished and the place hath a through light and ayre on all sides with open doores and wide open windowes the Ocean Sea withall the father and foster of windes
his Successours by abridging the number of Monkes for from threescore and tenne they brought them downe to forty flowed with riches and wealth in great abundance even unto our time and their festivall and solemne Holydayes they celebrated with so sumptuous provision and stately pompe that they wonne the prayse and prize from all the Abbaies in England whereupon a Poet also in that age wrote these verses not unproperly Pravisis aliis Eliensia festa videre Est quasi praevisa nocte videre diem See after others Ely feasts and surely thou wilt say That having seene the night before thou seest now the day The Church likewise which now began for age and long continuance to decay they built up by litle and litle and brought it to that ample statelinesse which now it hath For large it is high and faire but somewhat defaced by reason of Noblemens and Bishops tombes not without most shamefull indignity are broken downe And now in stead of that great Covent of Monks there are established a Deane Prebendaries a Grammar schoole wherein 24. children are maintained and taught Foure speciall things there are about this Church that the Common people talke much of The Lanterne on the very toppe thereof just over the Quire supported with eight pillars and raised upon them right artificially by Iohn Hothum the Bishop Vnder the Church towards the North standeth Saint Maries Chappell a singular fine peece of worke built by Simon Montacute Bishop On the South side there is an huge heape of earth cast up round of a great heigth which they call the Mount having had a wind mill upon it And lastly a Vine bearing fruit in great plenty which now is withered and gone These 4. a Monk of this place in times past knit up within this Rhyme Haec sunt Eliae Lanterna Capella Mariae Atque molendinum Nec non dans vinea vinum These things you may at Ely see The Lanterne Chapell of Saint Marie A Winde-mill mounted up on hie A Vine-yard yeelding Wine yeerely As for Ely it selfe it is a small Cittie nor greatly to bee counted of either for beauty or frequency and resort as having an unwholsome Aire by reason of the Fens round about although it be seated somewhat higher Neere to it is Downham where the Bishop hath his retyring House with a Parke neere to Downham is Cowney the ancientest seat of the Family surnamed for their habitation heere L'isle and De Insula and first planted here by Nigellus the second Bishop of Ely their Allies in the time of King Henry the First as is set downe in a Lieger Booke of Ely Chateries or Cheaterich is not farre hence Westward were Alwena a devout woman founded a Nunnery upon a coppid ground encompassed with Fens while her husband founded Ramsey But higher Northward amidst the Fennes there stood another Abbay of very great name called Thorney of thornes and bushes that grow thicke about it but in times past Ankerige of Ankers or Eremites living there solitarily where as we finde in Peterborough booke Sexvulph a devout and religious man built a Monastery with little Cels for Eremits Which being afterwards by the Danes throwne downe Aetbelwold Bishop of Winchester that he might promote the Monasticall profession reedified stored it with Monkes and compassed it round about with trees The place as writeth William of Malmesbury Representeth a very Paradise for that in pleasure and delight it resembleth Heaven it selfe in the very Marishes bearing Trees that for their streight talnesse and the same without knots strive to touch the Stars a Plaine is there as even as the Sea which with greene grasse allureth the eye so smooth and level that if any walke along the fields they shall finde nothing to stumble at There is not the least parcell of ground that lies waste and void there Here shall you finde the earth rising somewhere for Apple trees there shall you have a field set with Vines which either creepe upon the ground or mount on high upon poles to support them A mutuall strife there is betweene nature and husbandry that what the one forgetteth the other might supply and produce What will be said of the faire and beautifull buildings which it is a wonder to see how the ground amid those Fens and Marishes so firme and sound doth beare with sure and stedfast foundations A wonderfull solitary place is there afforded to Monkes for quiet life that so much the more constantly settle their mindes upon Heavenly things for that they see men very seldome and so are they seene in their state more mortified and lower brought A wonder it is to have a Woman seene there if come men thither there is rejoycing as at so many Angels In a word I may truly say that this Island is an Hostell of Chastity an harbour of Honesty and a Schoole or Colledge of Divine Philosophie Touching Wisbich the Bishop of Elies Castle about 13. miles off situate among the fennes and rivers and made of late a prison to keepe the Papists in hold I have nothing else to say but that this towne together with Walepole was in old time given by the owner thereof unto the monastery of Ely what time as he consecrated Alwin his little son there to live a monkes life that King William the First built a Castle there when the outlawed Lords made rodes out of this fenny country and that in the yeere of our salvation 1236. when the Ocean being disquieted with violent windes for two dayes continually together had beaten upon the shore made an exceeding wide breach and overwhelmed both land and people But the Castle of bricke that now is seene there Iohn Morton Bishop of Ely built within the rememberance of our great grandfathers who also drew as streight as a line in this fenny country a ditch which they call the Newleame for better conveyance and carriage by water that by this meanes the towne being well frequented might gaine the more and grow to wealth Which fell out quite contrary For it standeth now in no great steed and the neighbour inhabitants complaine that the course of Nen into the Sea by Clowcrosse is by this meanes altogether hindred and stopped The first Earle of Cambridge that I can finde was William the brother of Ranulph Earle of Chester as wee read in a patent or instrument of Alexander Bishop of Lincolne bearing date in the yeere 1139. Afterwards those of the royall blood in Scotland that were Earles of Huntingdon wee may thinke to have beene Earles of Cambridge also For that it appeareth certainly out of the Records of the realme that David Earle of Huntingdon received the third penny of the County or Earledome of Cambridge Long time after King Edward the Third advanced Sir Iohn of Henault brother to William the third Earle of Holland and of Henault to this honour for the love of Queene Philip his wife who was cosin to the said Iohn For
whose sake also when Iohn was revolted from him and tooke part with the French hee honoured with the same title William Marquesse of Iuliers the said Queene Philips sisters son After the death of these two Forainers King Edward the Third translated this dignity to his fifth sonne Edmund of Langley which after he had held foure yeeres my warrant I have out of an old manuscript being in the hands of that skilfull Antiquary Francis Thinn the Earle of Henault cosin to Queene Philip came into Parliament house put in a claime for his right and returned backe well contented The said Edmund of Langly afterwards Duke of Yorke had two sonnes Edward Duke of Yorke who for a certaine time held the Earldome of Cambridge and was slaine in the battell of Agin-court and Richard by the grace and favour of King Henry the Fifth and consent of his brother Edward was created Earle of Cambridge But when he ungratefull and ambitious man that hee was contrived the destruction of that good and noble Prince and so lost his head the title of Cambridge died the same day that he did or lurked at least wise among other titles of his sonne Richard who was afterwards Duke of Yorke and restored to his blood and estate as being cosin and heire to his Unkle Edward Duke of Yorke This Shire containeth Parishes 163. HVNTINGDON Comitatus qui pars fuir ICENORVM HUNTINGDON-SHIRE NExt unto Cambridge-shire lyeth HUNTINGDON-SHIRE in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 so situate that Southward it confineth upon Bedford-shire Westward upon Northamptonshire like as Northwards where by the River Avon it is parted and Eastward upon Cambridge-shire a Country good for corne and tillage and toward the East where it is fenny very rich and plentifull for the feeding of Cattaile elsewhere right pleasant by reason of rising hils and shady groves For the Inhabitants report that in ancient times it was throughout beset with woods and certaine it is that it was a Forest untill that king Henry the Second in the beginning of his raign disforested it as we find in an old perambulation all save Waybridge Sapple and Herthei which were Woods of the Lords demaine and remaine still forests The South part thereof the River Ouse that I have so often spoken of runneth by and bedecketh with flowers On which River among other of lesse note there stand some Townes of good note First after it hath left Bedford-shire and is entred into this County it visiteth Saint Neots commonly called Saint Needs so named of one Neotus a man both learned and holy who travailed all his life time in propagating of Christian Religion whose body was translated from Neotstok in Cornwall hither and in honour of him Alfrick converted the Palace of Earle Elfride unto a Monastery The which Dame Roisia Wife to Richard Lord of Clare shortly after the comming in of the Normas enriched with many faire Possessions But before it was named Ainulphsbury of one Ainulph likewise an holy and devout man which name continueth still also in one part of it A little beneath this at Aileweston a very small Village there are two little Springs the one fresh the other somewhat brackish of which the neighbours give out that this is good against scabs and leprosie the other against the dimnesse of the eye-sight From thence not farre Ouse passeth to Bugden a proper faire house of the Bishops of Lincolne and so by Hinchingbrok a religious house sometimes of Nuns whom King William the Conquerour translated hither from Eltesley in Cambridge-shire and now the dwelling house of the Cromwels knights commeth to Huntingdon in the English-Saxon tongue as Marianus reporteth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the publique seale Huntersdune that is the hill or downe of hunters as Henry Archdeacon of this place who flourished 400. yeares since interpreteth it whence it used in their seale an hunter and Leland our Countriman alluding thereunto hath coined a new Latine word for it namely Venantodunum This is the chiefe Towne of all this Shire to which it hath given also the name farre excelling all the Townes about it the same Archdeacon saith as well for lightsome and pleasant situation as for the beauty and faire shew that it hath it selfe as well also for the vicinity of the Fennes as for great store of Deere and Fish In King Edward the Confessors time that I may note so much out of Domesday booke There were in this Borrough foure Ferlings that is Quarters or Wards In two of them were 116. Burgesses paying custome and gelt and under them 100. Bordarij in the other two 111. Burgesses for all customes and the Kings gelt It is seated upon the North-banke of Ouse somewhat high stretching out in length Northward adorned with foure Churches and it had a little Abbay founded by Maude the Empresse and Eustace Lovetoft the ruines whereof Eastward I have seene hard under the Towne By the River neere unto the Bridge which is faire built of stone the Mount and Plot of a Castle is to bee seene which in the yeare of our Redemption 917. King Edward the Elder built anew and David the Scotishman unto whom as an ancient Historiographer writeth King Stephen had given the Burrough of Huntingdon for an augmentation of his estate enlarged with many new buildings and Bulwarkes but in the end King Henry the Second both because it was a place of refuge for seditious Rebels and for that the Scots and the Saint Lizes had oftentimes raised quarrels and contention about it to cut off all occasions of strife laid it even with the ground when as hee provoked with their unreasonable variance swore an oath that neither they of Saint Lizes nor the Scottishmen should quarrell any more for it From these Castle hils where there is a goodly prospect a great way off a man may behold below a medow which they call Portsholme environed round about with the River Ouse the same very exceeding large and of all others that the Sunne ever shone upon most fresh and beautifull whereof in the Spring time this may be truly said Ver pingit vario gemmantia prata colore The pleasant Spring faire flowers doe yeeld Of divers colours in this field With such a delectable variety of gaye colours it pleaseth and contenteth the eye On the hither banke over against Huntingdon standeth the mother as it were thereof from whence it had his Originall called in Domesday booke Godmundcester and at this day Good-man-chester for Gormonchester A very great country Towne and of as great name for tillage situate in an open ground of a light mould and bending to the Sun Neither is there a Towne againe in all England that hath more stout and lusty husbandmen or more ploughs agoing For they make their boast that they have in former time received the Kings of England as they passed in their progresse this way with nine score ploughs brought forth in a rusticall kind
military Fenses seeme to bee which are heere seene at Gildsborough and Dantrey betweene the Springheads of the two Aufons which run divers waies and where onely there is passage into the hither part of Britaine without any rivers to hinder it That fort at Gildsborough is great and large but this at Dantrey is greater and larger For being foure square upon an high hill from whence all the country beneath may bee seene farre every way about and having on the East side a Mount which they call Spelwell it encloseth within a banke cast up by mans hand more than one hundred acres of ground or thereabout Within which the country people other whiles finde coined peeces of money of the Roman Emperors as proofes of the antiquity thereof Much deceived are they therefore who will needs have it to bee a worke of the Danes and that of them the towne under it was named Dantrey which being a through-fare well knowne at this day by reason of the Innes there had a religious house of the Austen Friers that Sir H. de Fawesley founded as I have read At the head of Aufona or Nen standeth Catesby that gave name to an ancient Family but now of foule tainted memory for a most horrible and damnable complot never in any age exampled which that Robert Catesby of Ashby S. Leger the shame and indelible staine of his house and name detestably breathing forth savage cruelty in barbarous wise and compassing impiously the destruction of Prince and Country devised lately under a specious pretext of Religion Of whom let all times be silent least by making mention of him the foule staine and blot of our age appeare unto Posterity at the naming whereof we cannot chuse but with horror grieve and groane againe seeing the very dumbe and livelesse creatures seeme to be moved and troubled at so hellish Villany imagined by him and his complices Hard by it is Fawesley where have dwelt a long time the Knightleies worshipfull Knights descended from those more ancient Knightleies of Gnowshall in the County of Stafford and more Eastward hard by Nen as yet very small there is Wedon in the street sometimes the royall seat of Wolpher K. of the Mercians and converted into a Monastery by his daughter Werburg a most holy Virgine of whose miracles in driving away Geese from hence some credulous writers have made many a tale Verily I should wrong the Truth if I should not thinke albeit I have thought otherwise that this Wedon is the very station that Antonine the Emperour nameth BANNAVENNA BENNAVENNA BENNAVENTA and once corruptly ISANNAVENTA notwithstanding there now remaine no expresse tokens of that name considering how Time changeth all both names and things For the distance from the next stations and baiting Townes which were in ancient times answereth just and in the very name of BANNAVENNA the name of the River Aufon the head whereof is neere unto it in some sort doth plainly discover it selfe Likewise the high Port-way or Romane street goeth directly from hence Northward with a bridge or causey oft broken and worne out but most of all over against a Village named Creek where it was of necessity that there should be a bridge but in other places the bridge sheweth it selfe also as farre as to Dowbridge neere Lilborne most apparantly Somewhat more Northward wee saw Althorp the habitation of the Spensers knights allied to very many and those most honorable and worshipfull families out of which house Sir Robert Spenser the fifth Knight in a successive continued Descent a respective lover of vertue and learning was by our most gracious Soveraigne King James advanced to the honour of Baron Spenser of Wormeleighton Hard by Althorp Holdenby house a faire patterne of stately and magnificent building maketh a faire glorious shew which Sir Chistopher Hatton one of Queene Elizabeths Privie Councell Lord Chancellor of England and knight of the Order of the Garter built upon the lands and inheritance of his great grandmother heire unto the Family of the Holdenbeis for the greatest and last monument as himselfe afterwards was wont to say of his youth A man to say nothing of him but that which in truth is due for Religion and godlinesse right devout of approved faithfulnesse to the State of incorrupt equity for almesdeeds of all others most bountifull and one which is not the least part of his praise that was most willing and ready to support and maintaine learning Who as he lived a godly life so as godly he slept in Christ yet his commendation made knowne by the lightsome testimony of letters shall shine forth more cleerely than by that gorgeous Monument right well beseeming so great a Personage which Sir William Hatton his adopted sonne consecrated to his memory in the Church of Saint Paul in London Beneath these places Nen passeth on forward with a still and small streame and anone taketh in a small Brooke from the North and is thereby augmented where at the very meeting and confluence of both a City called after the River Northafandon and short Northampton is so seated that on the West side it is watered with the Brooke and on the South side with the foresaid Nen. Which City I was of late easily induced to guesse to have beene that ancient BENNAVENTA but if my conjecture missed the trueth the confession of my errour may salve it As for the name it may seeme to haue beene imposed of the situation thereof upon the North banke of the River Aufon The City it selfe which seemeth to have beene built all of stone is I assure you for houses very faire for circuit of good largenesse and walled about and from the Wall yee have a goodly prospect every way to a wide and spacious plaine Country On the West side it hath an old Castle and the very antiquity thereof giveth a grace unto it built by Simon de Sancto Lizio commonly called Senlyz the first of that name Earle of Northampton who also joyned unto it a beautifull Church called Saint Andrews for a place of his owne buriall and as men say reedified the Towne Simon also the younger his sonne founded without the Towne a Monastery commonly called De la prey for Nunnes During the Saxons Heptarchie it seemeth to have lien forlorne and of none account neither have Writers made any where mention of it in all those depredations of the Danes unlesse it were when Sweno the Dane in a furious and outragious moode made most cruelly havocke throughout all England for then as Henry of Huntingdon recordeth it was set on fire and burnt to the ground In the Raigne of Saint Edward the Confessour there were in it as we finde in the Survey Booke of England LX. Burgesses in the Kings Domaine having as many Mansions Of these in King William the Conquerours time Foureteene lay waste and voide and forty seaven remained Over and above these there were in the new Burrough forty Burgesses in the
the eldest Daughter and hee built Saint Andrewes Church and the Castle at Northampton After him succeeded his sonne Simon the second who a long time was in suite about his mothers possessions with David King of Scots his mothers second husband and having sided with King Stephen in the yeere of our Lord 1152. departed this life with this testimoniall that went of him A Youth full fraught with all unlawfull wickednesse and as full of all unseemely lewdnesse His sonne Simon the third having gone to law with the Scots for his right to the Earldome of Huntingdon wasted all his estate and through the gracious goodnesse of King Henry the Second married the Daughter and Heire of Gilbert de Gaunt Earle of Lincolne and in the end having recovered the Earledome of Huntingdon and disseized the Scots dyed childelesse in the yeare 1185. Whereas some have lately set downe Sir Richard Gobion to have beene Earle of Northampton afterward I finde no warrant thereof either in Record or History Onely I finde that Sir Hugh Gobion was a Ringleader in that rebellious rable which held Northampton against king Henry the Third and that the inheritance of his house came shortly after by marriage to Butler of Woodhall and Turpin c. But this is most certaine that King Edward the Third created William de Bohun a man of approved valour Earle of Northampton and when his elder brother Humfrey de Bohun Earle of Hereford and of Essex High Constable also of England was not sufficient in that warlike age to beare that charge of the Constable he made him also High Constable of England After him his sonne Humfrey succeeding in the Earledome of Northampton as also in the Earledomes of Hereford and of Essex for that his Unckle dyed with issue begat two Daughters the one bestowed in marriage upon Thomas of Woodstocke the youngest sonne of King Edward the Third the other upon Henry of Lancaster Duke of Hereford who afterwards attained to the Crowne by the name of King Henry the Fourth The Daughter of the said Thomas of Woodstocke brought by her marriage this Title of Northampton with others into the Family of the Staffords But when they afterwards had lost their honours and dignities King Edward the Sixth honoured Sir William Parr Earle of Essex a most accomplished Courtier with the Title of Marquesse of Northampton who within our remembrance ended this life issuelesse And while I was writing and perusing this Worke our most sacred Soveraigne King James in the yeere of our Salvation 1603. upon one and the same day advanced Lord Henry Howard brother to the last Duke of Norfolke a man of rare and excellent wit and sweet fluent eloquence singularly adorned also with the best sciences prudent in counsell and provident withall to the state of Baron Howard of Marnehill and the right honourable name title stile and Dignity of Earle of Northampton There belong unto this Shire Parishes 326. LECESTRIAE COMITATVS SIVE Leicestershyre PARS OLIM CORITANORVM LEICESTER-SHIRE ON the North side of Northampton-shire boundeth LEICESTER-SHIRE called in that Booke wherein William the Conquerour set downe his Survey of England Ledecester-shire a champian Country likewise throughout bearing corne in great plenty but for the most part without Woods It hath bordering upon it on the East side both Rutland-shire and Lincoln-shire on the North Nottingham and Derby-shires and Warwick-shire on the West For the high Rode way made by the Romanes called Watling-streat directly running along the West skirt separateth it from Warwick-shire and on the South side as I noted even now lyeth Northampton-shire Through the middle part thereof passeth the River Soar taking his way toward the Trent but over the East-part a little River called Wreke gently wandereth which at length findeth his way into the foresaid Soar On the South side where it is divided on the one hand with the River Avon the lesse and on the other with the River Welland we meet with nothing worth relation unlesse it be on Wellands banke whiles he is yet but small and newly come from his head with Haverburgh commonly called Harborrow a Towne most celebrate heereabout for a Faire of Cattaile there kept and as for Carleton as one would say the husband-mens Towne that is not farre from it wherein I wote not whether it be worth the relating all in manner that are borne whether it bee by a peculiar property of the Soile or the water or else by some other secret operation of nature have an ill favoured untunable and harsh manner of speech fetching their words with very much adoe deepe from out of the throat with a certaine kinde of wharling That Romane streete way aforesaid the causey whereof being in some other places quite worne and eaten away heere most evidently sheweth itselfe passeth on directly as it were by a streight line Northward through the West side of this Province The very tract of which street I my selfe diligently traced and followed even from the Tamis to Wales purposely to seeke out Townes of ancient memory laugh you will perhaps at this my painfull and expencefull diligence as vainly curious neither could I repose my trust upon a more faithfull guide for the finding out of those said townes which Antonine the Emperour specifieth in his Itinerary This Street-way being past Dowbridge where it leaveth Northampton-shire behinde it is interrupted first with the River Swift that is indeed but slow although the name import swiftnesse which it maketh good onely in the Winter moneths The Bridge over it now called Bransford and Bensford Bridge which heere conjoyned in times past this way having been of long time broken downe hath beene the cause that so famous a way for a great while was the lesse frequented but now at the common charge of the country it is repaired Upon this way lyeth of the one side Westward Cester-Over but it is in Warwick-shire a place worth the naming were it but in regard of the Lord thereof Sir Foulke Grevill a right worshipfull and worthy knight although the very name it selfe may witnesse the antiquity for our ancestours added this word Cester to no other places but only cities On the other side of the way Eastward hard by water Swift which springeth neere Knaptoft the seat of the Turpins a knightly house descended from an heire of the Gobions lieth Misterton belonging to the ancient family of the Poulteneis who tooke that name of Poulteney a place now decaied within the said Lordship Neere to it is Lutterworth a Mercate Towne the possession in times past of the Verdons which onely sheweth a faire Church which hath beene encreased by the Feldings of knights degree and ancient gentry in this Shire That famous John Wickliffe was sometime Parson of this Church a man of a singular polite and well wrought wit most conversant also in the holy Scripture who for that he had sharpened the neb of his pen against the Popes authority the Church
of Rome and religious men was not onely in his life time most grievously troubled but also one and forty yeeres after his death his dead Corps was cruelly handled being by warrant from the Councell of Siena turned out of his grave and openly burned Neither is it to be forgotten that neere to this Towne is a spring so cold that within a short time it turneth strawes and stickes into stones From that Bensford bridge the foresaid old High way goeth on to High-crosse so called for that thereabout stood sometime a Crosse in stead of which is erected now a very high post with props and supporters thereto The neighbours there dwelling reported unto me that the two principall High-waies of England did here cut one another overthwart and that there stood a most flourishing City there named Cleycester which had a Senate of Aldermen in it and that Cleybrooke almost a mile off was part of it also that on both sides of the way there lay under the furrowes of the corne fields great foundations and ground workes of foure square stone also that peeces of Roman money were very often turned up with the Plough although above the ground as the Poet saith Etiam ipsae periere ruinae that is Even the very ruines are perished and gone These presumptions together with the distance of this place from BANNAVENTA or Wedon which agreeth just and withall the said Bridge leading hitherward called Bensford are inducements unto me to thinke verily that the station BENNONES or VENONES was heere which Antonine the Emperour placeth next beyond BANNAVENTA especially seeing that Antonine sheweth how the way divided it selfe heere into two parts which also goeth commonly currant For Northeastward where the way lieth to Lincolne the Fosse way leadeth directly to RATAE and to VERNOMETUM of which I will speake anon and toward the Northwest Watlingstreet goeth as streight into Wales by MANVESSEDUM whereof I shall write in his due place in Warwick-shire Higher yet neere the same streetside standeth Hinkley which had for Lord of it Hugh Grantmaismill a Norman high Steward or Seneschall of England during the Raignes of king William Rufus and Henry the First The said Hugh had two daughters Parnell given in marriage to Robert Blanch-mains so called of his faire white hands Earle of Leicester together with the High-Stewardship of England and Alice wedded to Roger Bigot Verily at the East end of the Church there are to be seene Trenches and Rampires yea and a Mount cast up to an eminent height which the inhabitants say was Hughes Castle Three miles hence standeth Bosworth an ancient Mercat Towne which liberty together with the Faire S. Richard Harecourt obtained for it at the hands of king Edward the First Under this towne in our great grandfathers daies the kingdome of England lay hazarded upon the chance of one battaile For Henry Earle of Richmond with a small power encountred there in pitched field king Richard the Third who had by most wicked meanes usurped the kingdome and whiles he resolved to die the more valiantly fighting for the liberty of his country with his followers and friends the more happy successe he had and so overcame and slew the Usurper and then being with joyfull acclamations proclaimed King in the very mids of slaughtered bodies round about he freed England by his happy valour from the rule of a Tyrant and by his wisdome refreshed and setled it being sore disquieted with long civill dissentions Whereupon Bernard Andreas of Tholous a Poet living in those daies in an Ode dedicated unto King Henry the Seventh as touching the Rose his Devise writ these Verses such as they are Ecce nunc omnes posuere venti Murmuris praeter Zephyrum tepentem Hic Rosas nutrit nitidósque flores Veris amoeni Behold now all the windes are laid But Zephyrus that blowes full warme The Rose and faire spring-floures in mead He keepeth fresh and doth no harme Other memorable things there are none by this Street unlesse it bee Ashby de la Zouch that lyeth a good way off a most pleasant Lordship now of the Earles of Huntingdon but belonging in times past to the noble Family De la Zouch who descended from Alan Vicount of Rohan in Little Britaine and Constantia his wife daughter to Conan le Grosse Earle of Britaine and Maude his wife the naturall daughter of Henry the First Of this house Alane De la Zouch married one of the heires of Roger Quincy Earle of Winchester and in her right came to a faire inheritance in this Country But when hee had judicially sued John Earle of Warren who chose rather to try the Title by the sword point than by point of Law he was slaine by him even in Westminster Hall in the yeere of our Lord 1269. and some yeeres after the daughters and heires of his grand sonne transferred this inheritance by their marriages into the Families of the Saint Maures of Castle Cary and the Hollands Yet their father first bestowed this Ashby upon Sir Richard Mortimer of Richards Castle his cozin whose younger issue thereupon tooke the sirname of Zouch and were Lords of Ashby But from Eudo a younger sonne of Alane who was slaine in Westminster Hall the Lords Zouch of Harringworth branched out and have beene for many Descents Barons of the Realme Afterward in processe of time Ashby came to the Hastings who built a faire large and stately house there and Sir William Hastings procured unto the Towne the liberty of a Faire in the time of King Henry the Sixth Here I may not passe over the next neighbour Cole-Overton now a seat of the Beaumontes descended from Sir Thomas Beaumont Lord of Bachevill in Normandy brother to the first Vicount This place hath a Cole prefixed for the forename which Sir Thomas as some write was hee who was slaine manfully fighting at such time as the French recovered Paris from the English in the time of King Henry the Sixth This place of the pit-coles being of the nature of hardned Bitumen which are digged up to the profit of the Lord in so great a number that they serve sufficiently for fewell to the neighbour Dwellers round about farre and neere I said before that the River Soar did cut this Shire in the middle which springing not farre from this Street and encreased with many small rils and Brookes of running water going a long Northward with a gentle streame passeth under the West and North side of the cheife Towne or City of this County which in Writers is called Lege-Cestria Leogora Legeo cester and Leicester This Towne maketh an evident faire shew both of great antiquity and good building In the yeere 680. when Sexwulph at the commandement of King Etheldred divided the kingdome of the Mercians into Bishoprickes hee placed in this an Episcopall See and was himselfe the first Bishop that sat there but a few yeeres after when the See was translated to
in the yeere 1588. leaving the fame onely of his greatnesse behinde him Within this Shire are 200. Parish Churches RVTLANDIAE Omnium in Anglia Comitatu um minimus Pars olim CORITANORVM RUTLAND-SHIRE RUTLAND in the old English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is environed within Leicester-shire unlesse it be on the South-side where it lieth upon the river Welland and on the East-side where it butteth upon Lincoln-shire A Country nothing inferiour to Leicester-shire either in fruitfull qualitie of soile or pleasantnesse but in quantitie onely as being the least County of all England For lying in forme almost round like a circle it is in compasse so farre about as a light horseman will ride in one day Whence it is that the Inhabitants tell a tale of I wote not what king who should give to one Rut so much land as he could ride about in one day and that he forsooth rode about this shire within the time appointed and so had it given him and named it by his owne name Rutland But let such fables bee packing I would not have the trueth prejudiced with an extravagant tale And where as the earth in this shire is every where red and so red that even the sheepes fleeces are thereby coloured red whereas also the English-Saxons called Red in their tongue Roet and Rud may we not suppose that this Countrey was named Rutland as one would say a Redland For as saith the Poet. Conveniunt rebus nomina saepè suis. The names as often times we see With things themselves full well agree Now that places in all Nations have had their names of rednesse Rutlan Castle in Wales built on a shore of red earth Redbay Redhill Redland The Red Promontory The Red-Sea also betwixt Aegypt and Arabia Erytheia in Ionia and a number besides may proove most evidently So that there is no cause why we should give credit to fables in this behalfe As for this little County it may seeme to have beene ordained a Shire or County but of late daies For in King Edward the Confessors time it was counted a part of Northampton-shire and our Historiographers who wrote three hundred yeeres agoe and upward reckoned it not in the number of Shires Wash or Guash a little river which runneth from the West Eastward through the middle of it divideth it in twaine In the hithermore or South part riseth Uppingham upon an high ascent whence that name was imposed not memorable for any thing else but because it is counted a well frequented Mercat towne and hath for to shew a proper Schoole which together with another at Okeham R. Ihonson a Minister of Gods word in a good and laudable intent for the training up of children in good literature lately erected with the money he had gotten together by way of collection Under this standeth Drystoke which in no wise is to be passed over with silence considering it hath been the habitation from old time of a right ancient race of the Digbyes which I grieve to utter it but all men know it hath now caught a deepe steine by Sir Everard Digby drawne into that cursed crew who most horribly complotted with one divelish flash of hellish Gun-pouder to blow up both Prince and Country More Eastward upon the river Welland I saw nothing remarkeable unlesse it be Berohdon now Barodon which Thomas Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke held with South Leffingham now South Luffenham and other Hamelets by service to be the Kings Chamberlaine in the Exchequer On the further part beyond the river among the hils there spreadeth below a very pleasant and fruitfull vale named at this day The vale of Catmose happily of Coet maes which signifieth in the Brittish tongue a field full of woods In the middest whereof Okeham sheweth it selfe which by the like reason may seeme to have taken the name from Okes where hard by the Church which is large and faire remaine the crackt and decaying walls of an old Castle which Walkelin de Ferrari●s built in the first times of the Norman Kings And that it hath been the dwelling place of the Ferrars besides the credit of writers and generall report the great horse shoes which in times past that family gave in their armes fastned upon the gate and in the hall may sufficiently proove Afterwards it belonged to the Lords of Tatteshall But when King Richard the second had promoted Edward the Duke of Yorkes sonne to the Earledome of Rutland he gave unto him this Castle also But within our Fathers remembrance it befell unto Thomas Cromwel and was reputed the seat of his Baronie whom King Henry the Eighth advanced to the highest pitch of dignity and streightwaies when by his plotting and attempting of many matters he had cast himselfe into the tempestuous stormes of envy and displeasure bereft him on a sudden both of life and dignity Over against it Eastward there standeth Burley most daintily seated and overlooking the vale A stately and sumptuous house now of the Haringtons who by marrying the daughter and heire of Colepeper became Lords of so faire an inheritance that ever since they have flourished in these parts like as before time the Colepepers had done unto whom by N. Green the wealthy and goodly Livelod of the Bruses in part had descended As for those Bruses being men of the chiefe Nobility in England they were engraffed into the Roiall stocke and family of Scotland out of whom by Robert the eldest brother the race Roiall of Scotland are sprung-like as by Bernard the younger brother the Cottons of Connington in Huntingdon-shire of whom I have written already and these Haringtons In which regard and gracious respect King James advanced Sir Iohn Harington branched from that stem that the ancient Lords Harington to the title of Baron Harington of Exton a towne adjacent where he hath also an other faire house Moreover on the East side by the river Guash stands Brigcasterton whereof I will say more afterward and Rihall where when superstition had so bewitched our ancestours that the multitude of their pety Saints had well neere taken quite away the true God one Tibba a pety Saint or Goddesse reputed to bee the tutelar patronesse of Hauking was of Foulers and Faulkoners worshipped as a second Diana Essendon also is neere adjoyning the Lord whereof Sir Robert Cecil a good sonne of a right good father the strength and stay of our Common-wealth in his time was by King James created Baron Cecil of Essendon in the first yeere of his reigne This little County King Edward the Confessor by his last Will and Testament bequeathed unto his wife Eadith yet with this condition that after her death it should come to S. Peter of Westminster For these be the very words of the said Testament I will that after the death of Queene Eadith my wife ROTELAND with all the appertenances thereto be given to my Monastery of the most blessed
of the same name not farre from the ruines of Bitham Castle which as we find in an old Pedigree King William the first gave to Stephen Earle of Albemarle and Holdernesse that he might from thence have wherewith to feed his sonne as yet a little infant with fine wheat bread considering that in Holdernesse they did eate in those daies oten bread onely although they use now such kind of bread little or nothing at all But in the reigne of King Henry the Third when William de Fortibus Earle of Aumarle rebelliously kept this Castle and thence forraged and wasted the country about it it was laid well neere even with the ground Afterward this was the capitall seat as it were of the Barony of the Colvils who along time flourished in very great honour but the right line had an end under King Edward the Third and then the Gernons and those notable Bassets of Sapcot in right of their wives entred upon the inheritance This river Witham presently beneath his head hath a towne seated hard by it named Paunton which standeth much upon the antiquity thereof where are digged up oftentimes pavements of the Romanes wrought with checker worke and heere had the river a bridge over it in old time For that this is the towne AD PONTEM which Antonine the Emperor placed seven miles distant from MARGIDUNUM the name Paunton together with the distance not onely from Margidunum but also from Crococalana doth easily convince for in Antonine that towne was called CROCOCALANA which at this day is named Ancaster and is no more but a long streete through which the High-way passeth whereof the one part not long since belonged to the Veseies the other to the Cromwells At the entry into it on the South part we saw a rampier with a ditch and certaine it is that aforetime it had been a Castle like as on the other side Westward is to be seene a certaine summer standing campe of the Romanes And it may seeme that it tooke a British name from the situation thereof For it lieth under an hill and Cruc-maur in British signifieth a Great hill like as Cruc-occhidient a mount in the West as we read in Giraldus Cambrensis and Ninnius But what should be the meaning of that Calana let others looke The memory of antiquity in this towne is continued and maintained by the Romane Coines by the vaults under ground oftentimes discovered by the site upon the High-street and by those fourteene miles that are betweene it and Lincolne through a greene plaine which we call Ancaster-Heath for just so many doth Antonine reckon betweene Croco-calana and Lindum But now returne we to the river After Paunton wee come to Grantham a towne of good resort adorned and set out with a Schoole built by Richard Fox Bishop of Winchester and with a faire Church having a spire-steeple of a mighty heigth whereof there goe many fabulous tales Beneath it neere unto Herlaxton a little village a brasen vessell in our fathers time was turned up with a plough wherein a golden Helmet of a most antique fashion was found set with precious stones which was given as a present to Catherine of Spaine wife and Dowager to King Henry the Eighth From hence Witham passeth with a long course North-ward not farre from Somerton Castle which Antonine Becc Bishop of Durham built and gave to King Edward the First but a little after it was bestowed upon Sir Henry de Beaumont who about that time came into England and began the family of the Lords Beaumont which in the foregoing age in some sort failed when as the sister and heire of the last Vicount was married to John Lord Lovel de Tichmersh But of this house I have spoken before in Leicester-shire From thence the river bending by little and little to the South-East and passing through a Fenny Country dischargeth it selfe into the German Sea beneath Boston after it hath closed in Kesteven on the North. On the other side of Witham lieth the third part of this shire named Lindsey which of the chiefe Citie of the Shire Bede called Lindissi and being greater than Hoiland and Kesteven butteth with a huge bowing front upon the Ocean beating upon the East and North sides thereof On the West part it hath the river Trent and is severed from Kesteven on the South by that Witham aforesaid and the Fosse Dike anciently cast and scoured by King Henry the First for seven miles in length from Witham into Trent that it might serve the Citizens of Lincolne for carriage of necessaries by water Where this Dike entreth into Trent standeth Torksey in the Saxon language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a little towne and in these daies of small account but in ancient times very famous For before the Normans comming in as we finde in that booke wherein King William the first set downe his survey of England there were numbered in it two hundred Burgesses who enjoyed many priviledges on this condition that they should transport the Kings Embassadours whensoever they came this way in their owne Barges along the Trent and conduct them as farre as YORKE But where this Dike joyneth to Witham there is the principall City of this Shire placed which Ptolomee and Antonine the Emperour called LINDUM the Britans LINDCOIT of the woods for which we finde it elsewhere written amisse Luit-coit Bede LINDE-COLLINUM and LINDE COLLINA CIVITAS whether it were of the situation upon an hill or because it hath been a Colonie I am not able to avouch The Saxons termed it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Normans most corruptly Nichol we Lincolne and the Latine writers Lincolnia whereupon Alexander Necham in his booke intituled Divine wisdome writeth thus Lindisiae columen Lincolnia sive columna Munificâ foelix gente repleta bonis Lincolne the stay or piller sure of Lindsey thou maist bee Blest for thy people bounteous and goods that are in thee Others will have it to take that name of the river Witham which they say was called by a more ancient name Lindis but they have no authority to warrant them Neither am I of their judgement For Necham is against it who foure hundred yeeres agoe called the said river Witham in this verse Trenta tibi pisces mittit Lincolnia sed te Nec dedigneris Withama parvus adit The Trent unto thee sendeth fish O Lincoln well we see Yet little Witham scorne it not a riveret comes to thee I for my part would rather derive it from the British word Lhin which with the Britans signifieth a Lake For I have been enformed of the Citizens that Witham below the Citie by Swanpole was broader than now it is and yet is it at this day of a good breadth and to say nothing of Lindaw in Germanie by the Lake Acronius and of Linternum in Italie standing by a Lake I see
that in our Britaine Tallhin Glan-lhin and Lhinlithquo are townes by lakes sides This Citie it selfe being large well inhabited and frequented standeth upon the side of an hill where Witham bendeth his course Eastward and being divided with three small chanels watereth the lower part of the Citie That the ancient LINDUM of the Britans stood on the very top of the hill which had a very hard ascent up to it and reached out beyond the gate called Newport the expresse tokens of a rampier and deepe ditches which are yet very evident doe plainely shew In this City Vortimer that warlike Britan who many a time discomfited the Saxons and put them to flight ended his daies and was heere contrary to his owne commandement buried For he was in a full and assured hope perswaded that if he were enterred in the sea shore his very ghost was able to protect the Britans from the Saxons as writeth Ninius the disciple of Elvodugus But the English Saxons after they had rased this old Lindum first possessed themselves of the South side of the hill at the foot whereof they built as it seemeth the gate yet standing compiled of vast stones and with the ruines of that more ancient Towne fortified it Afterwards they went downe lower to the river side built in a place that was called Wickanford and walled it about on that side which is not fensed by the River At which time as saith Bede Paulinus preached the Word of God unto the Province of Lindsey and first of all converted unto the Lord the Governour or Provost of Lincolne City whose name was Blecca with his family In which very City hee built also a Church of goodly stone worke the roofe whereof being either fallen for want of repaire or cast downe by the violent hand of enemies the walles are seene standing to this day After this the Danes wonne it by assault once or twice First those troupes of spoiling mates out of whose hands King Edmund Ironside wrested it by force then Canutus from whom Aetheldred regained it when upon his returne out of Normandy he valiantly forced Canutus to abandon the towne and beyond all hope recovered England which before was lost In the Raigne of Edward the Confessour there were in it as Domesday booke recordeth a thousand and seventy Mansions with lodgings to give entertainment and twelve Lage men having Sac and Soc. But in the Normans time as saith William of Malmesbury It was one of the best peopled Cities of England and a place of traffique and merchandise for all commers by sea and land and as the same Domesday booke saith there were at that time counted and taxed in this City 900. Burgesses and many Mansions were laied waste 166. for the Castle and other 74. without the precinct of the Castle not through the oppression of the Sheriffe and his Ministers but by reason of mishap poverty and casualty by fire The said King William the Conqueror for the strengthning of it and terrour of the Citizens raised a passing large and strong Castle upon the brow of the hill and almost at the very same time Remigius Bishop of Dorchester for to give credit and ornament thereto translated hither his Episcopall seat from Dorchester which was in the most remote corner of his Dioecesse and a small Towne And when by this time that Church which Paulinus had built was quite gone to decay the same Remigius having purchased certaine houses with grounds lying unto them in the very highest place of the City neere unto the Castle as Henry of Huntingdon saith mounting up aloft with high and stately towres built in a strong place a strong Church in a faire plot a faire Church and dedicated it to the Virgin of Virgins notwithstanding the Archbishop of Yorke was enraged thereat who chalenged to himselfe the propriety of the soile and in it ordained 44. Prebendaries Which Church afterwards being sorely defaced with fire as he saith Alexander that most bountiful Bishop of Lincolne repaired with skilfull artificiall workemanship Of whom William of Malmesbury reporteth because for his little low stature hee was a dwarfe among men his minde laboured to rise aloft and shew it selfe to the world with outward workes And as concerning his bounty a Poet of that time among other things wrote thus Qui dare festinans gratis ne danda rogentur Quod nondum dederat nondum se credit habere Who hastening frankly for to give for feare that folke should crave He never thought that he had that which yet he never gave Besides these two Bishops already mentioned Robert Bloet who sat there before Alexander R. de Beaumeis Hugh a Burgundian and their Successours by little and little brought this Church which could not bee one Bishops worke to the stately magnificence that now it carryeth Certes as it is built it is all throughout not onely most sumptuous but also passing beautifull and that with rare and singular workmanship but especially that fore-front at the West end which in a sort ravisheth and allureth the eyes of all that come toward it In this Church although there bee divers Monuments of Bishops and others yet these onely seeme memorable That of Copper wherein the bowels of that right noble and vertuous Queene Aeleonor wife to King Edward the First are bestowed who died at Hardby in this Shire as also these following wherein lye interred Sir Nicolas Cantlow one or two of the Family of Burghersh Lady Catherine Swinford the third wife of John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster and mother of the house of Somerset with whom lyeth buryed Joan her daughter second wife to Raulph Nevill the first Earle of Westmerland who enriched her husband with many happy children The Bishops Diocesse of Lincolne not content with those streit limits wherewith the Bishops of Sidnacester who had Episcopall jurisdiction over this shire contented themselves in the Primitive Church of the English Nation conteined under it so many countries as that the greatnesse thereof was burdenous unto it And although King Henry the Second tooke out of it the Province of Ely and King Henry the Eighth the Bishopricks of Peterbourgh and of Oxford yet still at this day it is counted the greatest Diocesse by farre of all England both for jurisdiction and number of shires and the Bishop hath in his Diocesse one thousand two hundred forty seven Parish Churches Many and great Bishops since Remigius his time have governed this See whom to reckon up is no part of my purpose For I will not insist either upon Robert Bloet from whom King William Rufus wrung 50000. pounds for securing his title in the very City of Lincolne it selfe which was found defective nor upon that prodigall and profuse Alexander who in exceeding stately buildings was so excessively delighted ne yet upon Hugh the Burgundian Canonized a Saint whose corps King John with his Nobles and friends about him to performe as mine author saith a dutifull service to God and that holy
place at this day is called Buxton well which being found by experience holsome for the stomach sinewes and the whole body George Earle of Shrewesbury lately beautified with buildings and so they are begunne againe to bee resorted unto by concourse of the greatest Gentlemen and of the Nobility At which time that most unfortunate Lady Mary Queene of Scots bad farewell unto Buxton with this Distichon by a little change of Caesars Verses concerning Feltria in this wise Buxtona a quae calidae celebrabere nomine lymphae Fortè mihi posthac non adeunda vale Buxton that of great name shalt be for hote and holsome baine Farewell for I perhaps shall not thee ever see againe But that these hote waters were knowne in old time The Port-way or High paved Street named Bath-gate reaching for seven miles together from hence unto Burgh a little Village doth manifestly shew Neere unto this Burgh there standeth upon the top of an hill an old Castle sometimes belonging to the Peverels called The Castle in the Peake and in Latin De Alto Pecco which King Edward the Third together with a Manour and an Honour gave unto his sonne John Duke of Lancaster what time as hee surrendered the Earledome of Richmond into the Kings hands Under which there is a Cave or hole within the ground called saving your reverence The Devils Arse that gapeth with a wide mouth and hath in it many turnings and retyring roomes wherein forsooth Gervase of Tilbury whether for wane of knowing trueth or upon a delight hee had in fabling hath written that a Shepheard saw a very wide and large Country with Riverets and Brookes running heere and there through it and huge Pooles of dead and standing waters Notwithstanding by reason of these and such like fables this Hole is reckoned for one of the wonders of England neither are there wanting the like tales of another Cave but especially of that which is called Elden Hole wherein there is nothing to bee wondred at but that it is of an huge widnesse exceeding steepe and of a mervailous depth But whosoever have written that there should bee certaine tunnels and breathing holes out of which windes doe issue they are much deceived Neither doe these Verses of Alexander Necham which hee wrote as touching the Mervailes of England agree to any of these two holes Est specus Aeolijs ventis obnoxia semper Impetus è gemino maximus ore venit Cogitur injectum velamen adire supernas Partes descensum impedit aura potens A Cave to strong Aeolian windes alwaies enthral'd there is From two-fold tunnell maine great blasts arise and never misse A cloth or garment cast therein by force aloft is sent A mighty breath or powrfull puffe doth hinder all descent But all the memorable matters in this high and rough stony little Country one hath comprised in these foure Verses Mira alto Pecco tria sunt barathrum specus antrum Commoda tot plumbum gramen ovile pecus Tot speciosa simul sunt Castrum Balnea Chatsworth Plura sed occurrunt quae speciosa minùs There are in High Peake Wonders three A deepe Hole Cave and Den Commodities as many bee Lead Grasse and Sheepe in pen. And Beauties three there are withall A Castle Bath Chatsworth With places more yet meet you shall That are of meaner worth To these Wonders may be added a wonderfull Well in the Peake Forest not farre from Buxtons which ordinarily ebbeth and floweth foure times in the space of one houre or thereabout keeping his just Tides and I know not whether Tideswell a Mercate Towne heereby hath his name thereof The Peverels who I have said before were Lords of Nottingham are also reported to have beene Lords of Darby Afterward King Richard the First gave and confirmed unto his brother John the Counties and Castles of Nottingham Lancaster Darby c. with the honours thereto belonging with the honour also of Peverell After him these were Earles of Derby out of the family of Ferrars so far as I am able to gather out of the Registers of Tutbury Merivall and Burton Monasteries William Ferrars sonne to the Daughter and heire of Peverell whom King John with his owne hand as we finde in an ancient Charter invested Earle of Darby William his sonne who bruised with a fall out of his Coach died in the yeere 1254. And this Williams sonne Robert who in the Civill Warre lost this Title and a great estate by forfeiture in such sort as that none of his posterity although they lived in great port and reputation were ever restored to that honor againe But most of this Roberts possessions K. Henry the Third passed over unto Edmund his owne younger son and King Edward the Third I write out of the very originall Record by authority and advise of the Parliament ordained Henry of Lancaster the sonne of Henry Earle of Lancaster Earle of Darby to him and his heires and withall assigned unto him a thousand markes yeerely during the life of his father Henry Earle of Lancaster From that time this Title was united to the line of Lancaster untill King Henry the Seventh bestowed the same upon Thomas Lord Stanley who before had wedded Margaret the Kings mother to him and the heires males of his body He had for his successour his Grandsonne Thomas begotten by George his sonne of Ioan the heire of the Lord Strange of Knocking this Thomas had by the sister of George Earle of Huntingdon Edward the third Earle of this Family highly commended for hospitality and affability who by the Lady Dorothy Daughter to the first Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke begat Henry the fourth Earle efts-once honourably employed who left by Lady Margaret Daughter of Henry Earle of Cumberland Ferdinand and William successively Earles of Darby Ferdinand dyed in strange manner in the flower of his youth leaving by Margaret his Wife Daughter of Sir John Spenser of Althorp three Daughters Anne marryed to Grey Bruges Lord Chandos Francis Wife to Sir Iohn Egerton and Elizabeth Wife to Henry Earle of Huntingdon William the sixth Earle now enjoyeth that Honour having issue by Elizabeth Daughter to Edward late Earle of Oxford ANd thus much of the Counties of Nottingham and Darby of which they inhabited a part who in Bedes time were called Mercij Aquilonares that is The Northern Mercians for that they dwelt beyond the Trent Northward and they held as hee saith The land of seven thousand Families This County holdeth in it Parishes 106. CORNAVII HAving now travailed in order through the Countries of the ancient CORITANI I am to survey the Regions confining which in ancient time the people called CORNABII or CORNAVII inhabited The derivation or Etymologie of whose name let others sift out As for my selfe I could draw the force and signification of that word to this and that diversly but seeing none of them doth aptly answere to the nature of the place or disposition of the people
Family then a most other Within a little whereof standeth Stoneley where King Henry the Second founded an Abbay and just over against it stood in old time a Castle upon Avon called Stoneley-holme built in Holmeshull which was destroyed when the flaming broiles of Danish Warres under king Canutus caught hold of all England Then runneth Avon unto the principall Towne of the whole Shire which wee call Warwicke the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Ninnius and the Britans Caer Guarvic and Caer Leon. All which names considering they seeme to have sprung from Guarth a British word which signifieth a Garison or from Legions that were set in certaine places for Guard and defence thereof have in some sort perswaded mee although in these Etymologies I love rather to bee a Scepticke than a Criticke that this is the very Towne of Britaine which the Romans called PRAESIDIUM where as wee finde in the Noticia or Abstract of Provinces the Captaine of the Dalmatian Horsemen abode under the command of Dux Britanniae This Cohort or Band was enrolled out of Dalmatia and to note thus much by the way such was the provident wisedome and forecast of the Romans that in all their Provinces they placed forraigne Souldiers in Garison who by reason of their diversity as well of manners as of language from the naturall Inhabitants could not joyne with them in any conspiracy for as hee writeth Nations not inured to the bridle of bondage easily otherwise start backe from the yoake imposed upon them Heereupon it was that there served in Britaine out of Africke the Moores out of Spaine the Astures and Vettones out of Germany the Batavi Nervij Tungri and Turnacenses out of Gaul the Lingones Morini and from other remoter places Dalmatians Thracians Alani c. as I will shew in their proper places But now to the matter Neither let any man thinke that the Britans got that word Guarth from the Frenchmen seeing the originall is an Hebrew word if wee may beleeve Lazius and in that Originall most Nations doe accord But that this was PRAESIDIUM that is The Garison Towne both the Authority of our Chronicles teacheth which report that the Romane Legions had their aboad heere and the site also it selfe in the very navell and mids almost of the whole Province doth imply For equally distant it is of the one side from the East Coast of Norfolke and on the other side from the West of Wales which kinde of situation PRAESIDIUM a Towne of Corsica had standing just in the middest of the Island And no marvaile is it that the Romans kept heere Garison and a standing Company of Souldiers seeing it standeth over the River Avon upon a steepe and high Rocke and all the passages into it are wrought out of the very stone That it was fortified with a Wall and Ditches it is apparent and toward the South West it sheweth a Castle passing strong as well by Nature as handy-worke the seat in times past of the Earles of Warwicke The Towne it selfe is adorned with faire houses and is much bound to Ethelfled Lady of the Mercians who repaired it when as it was greatly decaied in the yeere 911. In very good state also it was upon the Normans entring into this land and had many Burgesses as they tearme them and twelve of them as wee finde written in King William the Conquerours Domesday Booke Were bound to accompany the King of England into his Warres He that upon warning given went not paid an hundred Shillings to the King but if the King made a voyage by sea against his enemies they sent either foure Boteswans or foure pound of Deniers In this Burgh the King hath in his Demeines one hundred and thirteene Burgesses and the Kings Barons have an hundred and twelve Roger the second of the Normans bloud Earle of Warwicke built afterwards in the very heart of the Towne a most beautifull Church to the blessed Virgin Mary Which the Beauchamps that succeeded adorned with their Tombes but especially Richard Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke and Governour of Normandy who dyed at Roan in the yeere 1439. and after a sumptuous funerall solemnized in this Church lyeth entombed in a magnificent Tombe with this Inscription Pray devoutly for the soule whom God assoile of one of the most worshipfull Knights in his daies of Manhood and cunning Richard Beauchampe late Earle of Warwicke Lord Despenser of Bergavenny and of many other great Lordships whose body resteth heere under this Tombe in a full faire Vault of stone set in the bare Roche The which visited with long sicknesse in the Castle of Rohan therein deceased full Christianly the last day of April in the yeere of our Lord God 1439. Hee being at that time Lieutenant Generall of France and of the Dutchie of Normandie by sufficient authority of our Soveraigne Lord King Henry the sixth The which body by great deliberation and worshipfull conduct by sea and land was brought to Warwick the fourth of October the yeere abovesaid and was laid with full solemne exequies in a faire Chest made of stone in the West Doore of this Chappell according to his last Will and Testament therein to rest till this Chappell by him devised in his life were made the which Chappell founded on the Roche and all the members thereof his Executors did fully make and apparell by the authority of his said last Will and Testament And thereafter by the said authority they did translate worshipfully the said body into the Vault aforesaid Honoured be God therefore Neere unto Warwicke Northward is Blaclow hill to be seene on which Piers de Gaveston whom King Edward the Second had raised from a base and low estate to bee Earle of Cornwall was by the Nobles of the Kingdome beheaded who presuming of the Kings favor and fortunes indulgence tooke unto him so great and licencious liberty that when he had once corrupted the Kings heart hee despised all the best men and proudly seized upon the estates of many and as hee was a crafty and old beaten Fox sowed discords and variance betweene the Prince and the Peeres of the Realme Under this hill hard by the River Avon standeth Guy-cliffe others call it Gib-cliffe the dwelling house at this day of Sir Thomas Beau-foe descended from the ancient Normans line and the very seat it selfe of pleasantnesse There have yee a shady little Wood cleere and cristall Springs mossie bottomes and caves medowes alwaies fresh and greene the River rumbling heere and there among the stones with his streame making a milde noise and gentle whispering and besides all this solitary and still quietnesse things most gratefull to the Muses Heere as the report goes that valiant knight and noble Worthy so much celebrated Sir Guy of Warwicke after hee had borne the brunt of sundry troubles and atchieved many painfull exploits built a Chappell led an Eremits life and in the end was buryed Howbeit wiser men doe thinke
mediamnis in orbe Colle tumet modico duplici quoque ponte superbit Accipiens patriâ sibi linguâ nomen ab alnis The buildings high of Shrewsbury doe shine both farre and nere A Towne within a River set an Island as it were Mounted upon a prety hill and Bridges hath it twaine The name it tooke of Alder trees in British tongue they sayne Neither is it strengthned onely by nature but fortified also by art for Roger of Montgomery unto whom by the Conquerors gift it was allotted pulling downe 50. houses or thereabout built a strong stately Castle on the North side upon a rising rocke and Robert his son when hee revolted from King Henry the First walled it about on that side where it was not fensed with the River which notwithstanding never that I know of suffered assault or hostility but once in the Barons Warre against King John At the first entring of the Normans it was a City well inhabited and of good trade For as we reade in Domesday booke In King Edward the Confessors time it paid Gelt according to an hundred Hides In the Conquerours time it paid yeerely seven pounds and sixteene shillings de Gablo They were reckoned to bee two hundred and fifty two Citizens whereof twelve were bound to watch about the Kings of England when they lay at this City and as many to accompany them when they went forth on hunting Which I would verily thinke to have beene ordained because not many yeeres before Edricke Streona Duke of the Mercians a man notoriously disteined with wickednesse lay in wait heere for Prince Ashelm and slew him as he rode on hunting At which time as that Booke sheweth the custome was in this City That a woman taking howsoever it were a husband if she were a widdow gave unto the King twenty shillings if a maide tenne in what manner soever she tooke a man But to returne unto our matter the said Earle Roger not onely fortified it but also adorned it with other buildings both publique and private yea and founded a very goodly Abbay to the honour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul unto which he granted many Possessions and therewith Saint Gregories Church And namely in that tenour I exemplifie the words out of the private History of the said Abbay That when the Chanons who held Prebends therein should any of them die the said Prebends should come unto the Demaine and Possession of the Monkes Whereupon arose no small controversie For the sonnes of the said Chanons sued the Monkes at Law that they might succeed in their fathers Prebends For at that time the Chanons and Priests in England were married and it grew to be a custome that Ecclesiasticall livings should descend by inheritance to the next of the bloud But this controversie was decided under King Henry the First and concluded it was that the heire should not succeed in Ecclesiasticall Livings yea and about that time lawes were enacted touching the single life of Priests Soone after in processe of time other Churches also were heere erected For to say nothing of the houses or Frieries of Dominicans Franciscans and Augustine Friers which the Charletons Jenevils and Staffords founded there were two Collegiat Churches erected Saint Chadds with a Deane and ten Prebendaries and Saint Maries with a Deane likewise and nine Prebendaries And even at this day a faire and goodly City it is well frequented and traded full of good merchandise and by reason of the Citizens painfull diligence with cloth making and traffique with Welshmen rich and wealthy For hither almost all the commodities of Wales doe conflow as it were to a common Mart of both Nations Whereupon it is inhabited both with Welsh and English speaking both languages who among other things deserve especiall commendation for this in that they have set up a Schoole for the training up of children wherein were more Schollers in number when I first saw it than in any one Schoole throughout all England againe unto which Thomas Aston the first head Schoolmaster a right good man procured by his meanes a very honest Salarie and Stipend for the Teachers It shall not now I hope bee impertinent to note that when diverse of the Nobility conspired against King Henry the Fourth with a purpose to advance Edmund Mortimer Earle of March to the Crowne as the undoubtfull and right heire whose father King Richard the Second had also declared heire apparent and Sir Henry Percy called Hote-spurre then addressed himselfe to give the assault to Shrewsbury upon a suddaine all their designes were dashed as it were from above For the King with speedy marches was upon his backe before hee imagined To whom yet the young Hote-spurre with courageous resolution gave battaile and after a long and doubtfull fight wherein the Scotishmen which followed him shewed much manly valour when the Earle of Worcester his Unckle and the Earle of Dunbar were taken hee despairing of Victory ran undaunted upon his owne death amiddest the thickest of his enemies Of this battaile the place is called Battaile-field Where the King after Victory erected a Chappell and one or two Priests to pray for their soules who were there slaine As for the position of this Shrewsbury it is from the Islands Azores twenty Degrees and seven and thirty minutes distant in Longitude and from the Aequinoctiall Line two and fifty Degrees and three and fifty minutes in Latitude From out of this city I wot not whether it may be thought worth my labour or pertinent to my purpose to relate so much brake forth the last time namely in the yeere of our Salvation 1551. that dismall disease The English Sweat which presently dispersed over the whole Realme made great mortality of people especially those of middle age for as many as were taken suddenly with this Sweat within one foure and twenty houres either dyed or recovered But a present remedy was found namely that such as in the day time fell into it should presently in their clothes as they were goe to bed if by night and in bed should there rest lye still and not stirre from thence for foure and twenty houres provided alwayes that they should not sleepe the while but by all meanes bee kept waking Whereof this disease first arose the learned of Physicians know not for certaine Some strangers ascribe it to the ground in England standing so much upon plastre and yet it is but in few places of that nature In certaine moist Constitutions of weather say they it happeneth that vapours arise out of that kinde of Soile which although they bee most subtile yet they are corrupt which cause likewise a subtile contagion and the same is proportionate either unto the spirits or to the thinne froth that floateth upon the bloud But whatsoever the cause is no doubt there is an Analogie betweene it and the subtile parts of bloud by reason whereof within one day the Patient either mends
worthy and heroicall a Knight ORATE PRO ANIMA PRAENOBILIS DOMINI DOMINI JOANNIS TALBOTT QVONDAM COMITIS SALOPIAE DOMINI TALBOTT DOMINI FURNIVALL DOMINI VERDON DOMINI STRANGE DE BLACK-MERE ET MARESCALLI FRANCIAE QUI OBIIT IN BELLO APUD BURDEVVS VII IULII M. CCCC.LIII That is Pray for the Soule of the right Noble Lord Sir John Talbot sometimes Earle of Shrewsburie Lord Talbot Lord Furnivall Lord Verdon Lord Strange de Black-Mere and Mareshall of France Who died in the battaile at Burdews VII IULII M. CCCC LIII Unto this Family of the Talbots there accrued by marriage-right the inheritance of the Barons Le Strange of Blackmere who were surnamed Le Strange commonly and Extranei in Latine records for that they were strangers brought hether by King Henrie the Second and in short time their house was far propagated These of Blackmere were much inriched by an heire of W. de Albo-monasterio or this Whit-Church and also by one of the heires of John Lord Giffard of Brimsfield of ancient Nobility in Glocester-shire by the onely daughter of Walter Lord Clifford More Westward lieth Ellesmer a little territorie but rich and fruitfull which as the Chronologie of Chester testifieth King John gave with the Castle to Lhewellin Prince of North-Wales in marriage with Joane his base daughter Afterwards in the time of King Henry the Third it came to the Family of the Stranges But now it hath his Baron Sir Thomas Egerton a man whom for his singular wisdome and sincere equity Queene Elizabeth chose to be Lord Keeper of the great Seale and King Iames making him Lord Chancellour advanced to the highest Honour of the long roabe and withall adorned with the Honorable title of Baron of Ellesmer Now let us briefely adde somewhat of the Earles of Shrewsbury Roger de Belesmo otherwise Montgomery was created the first Earle of Shrewsbury by King William the Conquerour unto whom he allotted also the greatest part of this Shire After him succeeded first his eldest sonne Hugh slaine in Wales without issue Then Robert another of his sonnes a man outragiously cruell toward his owne sonnes and hostages whose eyes with his owne hands he plucked out and gelded But afterwards being convict of high Treason he was kept in perpetuall prison by King Henry the first and so suffered condigne punishment for his notorious wickednesse Then was his Earledome made over unto Queene Adeliza for her dowry Many ages after King Henry the Sixth in the 20. yeere of his reigne promoted to this honour Iohn Lord Talbot whom both Nature bred and his disposition inured unto warlike prowesse And in the 24. yeere of his reigne he bestowed moreover upon the same Iohn whom in the Patent he calleth Earle of Shrewsbery and of Weisford the title of Earle of Waterford the Barony of Dongarvan and the Seneschalsie or Stewardship of Ireland But when he was slaine at Castilion upon Dordon neere Burdeaux together with his younger sonne Sir John Talbot Vicount L'isle after he had foure and twenty yeeres together marched with victorious armes over a great part of France his sonne Iohn by the daughter and one of the heires of Sir Thomas Nevill Lord Furnivall succeeded who siding with the house of Lancaster was slaine fighting valorously in the forefront of the battaile of Northampton From him by a daughter of the Earle of Ormond came Iohn the third Earle of Shrewsbury and Sir Gilbert Talbot Captaine of Callis from whom the Talbots of Graston descended This third Iohn had by his wife Katherine daughter to H. Duke of Buckingham George the fourth Earle who served King Henry the Seventh valiantly and constantly at the battaile of Stoke And he by Anne his wife daughter of William Lord Hastings had Francis the fifth Earle who begat of Mary daughter to Thomas Lord Dacre of Gillesland George the sixth Earle aman of approoved fidelity in weighty affaires of State whose sonne Gilbert by his wife Gertrud daughter to Thomas Earle of Rutland the seventh Earle maintaineth at this day his place left unto him by his ancestours with right great honour and commendation for his vertues In this region there are Parishes much about 170. CESTRIAE Comitatus Romanis Legionibus-et Colonijis olim insignis vera et obseluta descriptio CHES-SHIRE THE fifth and last of those Countries which in old time the CORNAVII held is the County of CHESTER in the Saxons Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly CHES-SHIRE and The County Palatine of Chester for that the Earles thereof had Royalties and princely Priviledges belonging to them and all the Inhabitants owed Allegeance and fealty to them as they did to the King As for this tearme Palatine that I may rehearse againe that which I have said before of this name was in times past common to all those who bare any Office in the Kings Court or Palace and in that age Comes Palatinus was a Title of Dignity conferred upon him who before was Palatinus with authority to heare and determine Causes in his owne Territory and as well his Nobles whom they called Barons as his Vassals were bound to repaire to the Palace of the said Count both to give him advise and also to give their attendance and furnish his Court with their presence This Country as William of Malmesbury saith Is scarce of Corne but especially of Wheat yet plentifull in Cattaile and fish Howbeit Ranulph the Monke of Chester affirmeth the contrary Whatsoever Malmesbury dreamd saith hee upon the relation of others it aboundeth with all kinde of victuals plenteous in Corne flesh fish and salmons especially of the very best it maintaineth trade with many commodities and maketh good returne For why in the Confines thereof it hath salt pits mines and metals And this moreover will I adde the grasse and fodder there is of that goodnesse and vertue that cheeses bee made heere in great number of a most pleasing and delicate taste such as all England againe affordeth not the like no though the best dayriwomen otherwise and skilfullest in cheese making be had from hence And whiles I am writing this I cannot chuse but mervaile by the way at that which Strabo writeth That in his time some Britans could not skill of making Cheese and that Plinie afterwards wondered That barbarous Nations who lived of milke either knew not or despised for so many ages the commodity of Cheese who otherwise had the feat of crudding it to a pleasant tartnesse and to fat bu●yr Whereby it may be gathered that the devise of making Cheese came into Britaine from the Romans But howsoever this Region in fertility of soile commeth behinde many Countries in England yet hath it alwaies bred and reared more Gentry than the rest For you have not in all England againe any one Province beside that in old time either brought more valorous Gentlemen into the field or had more Families in it of Knights degree On the Southside it is hemmed
in British called Castle Hean that is The Old Castle and in English The Old Towne A poore small Village now but this new name is a good proofe for the antiquity thereof for in both tongues it soundeth as much as an Old Castle or towne Next unto this Old Towne Alterynnis lieth in manner of a River-Island insulated within waters the seat in old time of that ancient family of the Sitsilts or Cecils knights whence my right honourable Patron accomplished with all the ornaments of vertue wisdome and Nobility Sir William Cecil Baron of Burghley and Lord high Treasurer of England derived his descent From hence Munow turning Eastward for a good space separateth this Country from Monmouth-shire and at Castle Map-harald or Harold Ewias is encreased with the River Dor. This Ewias Castle that I may speake out of K. William the First his Booke was repaired by Alured of Marleberg Afterwards it pertained to one Harold a Gentleman who in a Shield argent bare a Fesse Geules betweene three Estoiles Sable for his Armes of whom it beganne to bee called Harold Ewias but Sibyll his niece in the second degree and one of the heires by her marriage transferred it to the Lords of Tregoz frō whom it came at length to the Lords of Grandison descended out of Burgundie But of them elsewhere Now the said Dor which running downe frō the North by Snodhill a Castle and the Barony sometime of Robert Chandos where is a quary of excellent marble cutteth through the midst of the Vale which of the River the Britans call Diffrin Dore but the Englishmen that they might seeme to expresse the force of that word termed it the Gilden Vale which name it may by good right and justly have for the golden wealthy and pleasant fertility thereof For the hils that compasse it in on both sides are clad with woods under the woods lie corne fields on either hand and under those fields most gay and gallant medowes then runneth in the midst between them a most cleere and crystall River on which Robert Lord of Ewias placed a faire Monastery wherein most of the Nobility and Gentry of these parts were interred Part of this shire which from this Vale declineth and bendeth Eastward is now called Irchenfeld in Domesday Booke Archenfeld which as our Historians write was layed wast with fire and sword by the Danes in the yeere 715. at what time Camalac also a Britan Bishop was carried away prisoner In this part stood Kilpeck a Castle of great name and the seat it was of the noble Family of the Kilpecks who were as some say the Champions to the Kings of England in the first age of the Normans And I my selfe also will easily assent unto them In the Raigne of Edward the First there dwelt heere Sir Robert Wallerond whose nephew Alane Plugenet lived in the honourable state of a Baron In this Archenfeld likewise as wee reade in Domesday booke certaine revenewes by an old custome were assigned to one or two Priests on this condition that they should goe in Embassages for the Kings of England into Wales and to use the words out of the same booke The men of Archenfeld whensoever the Army marcheth forward against the enemy by a custome make the Avantgard and in the returne homeward the Rereward As Munow runneth along the lower part of this shire so Wy with a bending course cutteth over the middest upon which River in the very West limit Clifford Castle standeth which William Fitz Osborn Earle of Hereford built upon his owne West as it is in King William the Conquerours booke but Raulph de Todenay held it Afterward it seemeth to have come unto Walter the sonne of Richard Fitz Punt a Norman for he was sirnamed De Clifford and from him the right honorable family of the Earles of Cumberland doe truly deduce their descent But in the daies of King Edward the First John Giffard who married the heire of Walter L. Clifford had it in his hands Then Wy with a crooked and winding streame rolleth downe by Whitney which hath given name to a worshipfull Family and by Bradwardin Castle which gave both originall and name to that famous Thomas Bradwardin Archbishop of Canterbury who for his variety of knowledge and profound learning was in that age tearmed The Profound Doctour and so at length commeth to Hereford the head City of this Country How farre that little Region Archenfeld reached I know not but the affinity betweene these names Ereinuc Archenfeld the towne ARICONIUM of which Antonine in the description of this Tract maketh mention and Hareford or Hereford which now is the chiefe City of the Shire have by little and little induced mee to this opinion that I thinke every one of these was derived from ARICONIUM Yet doe I not thinke that Ariconium and Hereford were both one and the same but like as Basil in Germany chalenged unto it the name of Augusta Rauracorum and Baldach in Assyria the name of Babylon ●or that as one had originall from the ruines of Babylon so the other from the ruines of Augusta even so this Hariford of ours for so the common people call it derived both name and beginning in mine opinion from his neighbour old ARICONIUM which hath at this day no shape or shew at all of a Towne as having beene by report shaken to peeces with earthquake Onely it reteineth still a shadow of the name being called Kenchester and sheweth to the beholders some ruines of walles which they tearme Kenchester walles about which are often digged up foure square paving stones of Checker worke British-brickes peeces of Romane money and other such like remaines of Antiquity But Hereford her daughter which more expressly resembleth the name thereof standeth Eastward scarce three Italian miles from it seated among most pleasant medowes and as plentifull corne fields compassed almost round about with Rivers on the North side and on the West with one that hath no name on the South side with Wy thath hastneth hither out of Wales It is thought to have shewed her head first what time as the Saxons Heptarchie was in the flower and prime built as some write by King Edward the Elder neither is there as farre as I have read any memory thereof more ancient For the Britans before the name of Hereford was knowne called the place Tresawith of Beech trees and Hereford of an Old way and the Saxons themselves 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of ferns The greatest encrease if I be not deceived that it had came by Religion and by the Martyrdome of Ethelbert King of the East England Who when he wooed himselfe the daughter of Offa K. of the Mercians was villanously forlaid and murdered by the procurement of Quendred Offaes wife respecting more the countries of the East England than the honest and honorable match of her daughter which Ethelbert being registred in
in old time called Guarthenion as Ninnius restifieth who wrote that the said wicked Vortigern when he was plainely and sharply reprooved by that godly Saint German did not onely not turne from his lewd and licentious life to the worship and service of God but also let flie slanderous speeches against that most holy man Wherefore Vortimer the sonne of Vortigern as Ninnius saith for the slander which his Father had raised of Saint German decreed that he should have the land as his owne for ever wherein he had suffered so reprochfull an abuse whereupon and to the ened that Saint German might be had in memory it was called Guarthenion which signifieth in English A slander justly retorted The Mortimers descended from the Niece of Gonora Wife of Richard the First Duke of Normandie were the first Normans that having discomfited the English Saxon Edricke Sylvaticus that is The wild wonne a great part of this little Country to themselves And after they had a long time been eminent above all others in these parts at length King Edward the Third about the yeere of Salvation 1328. Created Roger Mortimer Lord of Wigmore Earle of this Welsh limit or according to the common speech Earle of March who soone after was sentenced to death because he had insulted upon the Common-wealth favoured the Scots to the prejudice of England conversed over familiarly with the ●ings mother and contrived the destruction and death of King Edward the Second the Kings Father He by his Wife Joan Jenevell who brought him rich revenewes as well in Ireland as in England had Edmund his Sonne who felt the smart of his Fathers wickednesse and lost both patrimonie and title of Earle Howbeit his Sonne Roger was fully restored recovered the title of Earle of March and was chosen a fellow of the order of the Garter at the first institution thereof This Roger begat of Philip Montacute Edmund Earle of March and he tooke to Wife Philip the only daughter of Leonell Duke of Clarence the third sonne of King Edward the Third whereby came unto him the Earldome of Vlster in Ireland and the Lordship of Clare After he had ended his life in Ireland where he governed with great commendation his sonne Roger succeeded being both Earle of March and Vlster whom King Richard the Second declared heire apparent and his successour to the Crowne as being in right of his Mother the next and undoubted heire But he dying before king Richard left issue Edmund and Anne Edmund in regard of his Royall bloud and right to the Crowne stood greatly suspected to Henrie the Fourth who had usurped the kingdome and by him was first exposed unto dangers in so much as he was taken by Owen Glendour a Rebell and afterward whereas the Percies purposed to advance his right he was conveyed into Ireland kept almost twenty yeeres prisoner in the Castle of Trim suffering all miseries incident to Princes of the bloud while they lie open to every suspition and there through extreame griefe ended his daies leaving his sister Anne his heire She was married to Richard Earle of Cambridge in whose right his heires and posterity were Earles of March and made claime to the kingdome which in the end also they obtained as wee will shew in another place In which respect King Edward the Fourth created his eldest Sonne being Prince of Wales Duke of Cornwall c. Earle of March also for a further augmentation of his Honour As for the title of Rad-nor no man ever bare it to my knowledge In this are Parishes 52. BRECKNOC Comitaus pars Osim SILVRVM BRECHNOCK-SHIRE BEneath Radnor-shire Southward lyeth BRECHNOCK-SHIRE in the British Brechineau so named as the Welshmen relate of a Prince named Brechanius whom they report to have had a great and an holy Offspring to wit twenty foure Daughters all Saints Farre greater this is than Radnor-shire but thicker set with high Hilles yet are the valleies fruitfull every where On the East side it is bounded with Hereford-shire On the South with Monmo●th and Glamorgan-shires ond on the West with Caermarden-shire But seeing there is nothing memorable or materiall to the description of this small Province which is not set downe by the curious diligence of Giraldus Cambrensis who was an Archdeacon heereof above foure hundred yeeres since I thinke I may doe well for my selfe to hold my peace a while and to admit him with his stile into the fellowship of this labour Brecknocke saith hee in his Booke called Itinerarium Cambriae is a Country having sufficient store of Corne and if there bee any defect thereof it is plentifully supplied out of the fruitefulnesse of England bordering so neere upon it a Country likewise well stored with pastures and Woods with wilde Déere and heards of Cattaile having abundance beside of fresh water fish wherewith Vske on the one side and Wy on the other serveth it For both these Rivers are full of Salmons and Trouts but Wy of the twaine is the better affording the best kinde of them which they call Vmbras Enclosed it is on every side with high hilles unlesse it be on the North part In the West it hath the mountaines of Canterbochan On the South-side likewise the Southern mountaines the chiefe whereof is called Cadier Arthur that is Arthurs chaire of the two toppes of the same for it is 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is shaped with two capes resembling the forme of a Chaire And for that the Chaire standeth very high and upon a steepe downefall by a common tearme it was assigned to Arthur the greatest and mightiest King of the Britans In the very pitch and top of this hill there walmeth forth a spring of water And this fountaine in manner of a Well is deepe but foure square having no brooke or Riveret issuing from it yet are there Trouts found therein And therefore having these barres on the South side the aire is the colder defendeth the Country from the excessive heat of the Sunne and by a certaine naturall wholsomnesse of the aire maketh it most temperate But on the East side the mountaines of Talgar and Ewias doe as it were foresense it On the North side as he said it is more open and plaine namely where the River Wy severeth it from Radnor-shire by which stand two Townes well knowne for their antiquity Buelth and Hay Buelth is pleasantly situate with Woods about it fortified also with a Castle but of a later building by the Breoses and Mortimers when as Rhese ap Gruffin had rased the ancient Castle Now the Mercate much resorted unto maketh it more famous thereabout but in times past it seemeth to have beene for the owne worth of great name because Ptolomee observed the position therof according to the Longitude and Latitude who called it BULLEUM Silurum Of this towne the country lying round about it being rough and full of hils is named Buelth wherein when as the Saxons were
of the lands was fallen there was great competition for the title of Abergevenny argued in the High Court of Parliament in the second yeere of King James and their severall claimes debated seven severall daies by the learned Counsell of both parts before the Lords of the Parliament Yet when as the question of precise right in law was not sufficiently cleered but both of them in regard of the nobility and honor of their family were thought of every one right worthy of honorable title and whereas it appeared evidently by most certaine proofes that the title as well of the Barony of Abergevenny as of Le Despenser appertained hereditarily to this Family The Lords humbly and earnestly besought the King that both parties might be ennobled by way of restitution who graciously assented thereunto Hereupon the Lord Chancellour proposed unto the Lords first whether the heire male should have the title of Abergevenny or the heire female and the most voices carried it that the title of the Barony of Abergevenny should bee restored unto the heire male And when he propounded secondly whether the title of the Barony Le Despenser should bee restored unto the female they all with one accord gave their full consent Which being declared unto the King he confirmed their determination with his gracious approbation and royall assent Then was Edward Nevill by the Kings Writ called unto the Parliament by the name of Baron Abergavenney and in his Parliament Robes betweene two Barons as the manner is brought into the house and placed in his seat above the Baron Audley And at the very same time were the letters Patents read whereby the King restored erected preferred c. Mary Fane to the state degree title stile name honour and dignity of Baronesse Le-Despenser To have and to hold the foresaid state and unto the above named Mary and her heires and that her heires successively should bee Barons Le-Despenser c. And upon a new question mooved unto whether the Barony of Abergavenney or the Barony Le-Despenser the priority of place was due The Lords referred this point to the Commissioners for the Office of the Earle Mareschall of England who after mature deliberation and weighing of the matter gave definitive sentence for the Barony Le-Despenser set downe under their hands and signed with their seales which was read before the Lords of the Parliament and by order from them entered into the Journall Booke out of which I have summarily thus much exemplified John Hastings for I have no reason to passe it over in silence held this Castle by homage Wardship and marriage when it hapned as wee reade in the Inquisition and if there should chance any warre betweene the King of England and the Prince of Wales hee was to keepe the Country of Over-went at his owne charges in the best manner he can for his owne commodity the Kings behoofe and the Realme of Englands defense The second little City which Antonine named BURRIUM and setteth downe twelve miles from Gobannium standeth where the River Birthin and Uske meete in one streame The Britans at this day by transposing of the letters call it Brunebegy for Burenbegy and Caer Uske Giraldus tearmeth it Castrum Oscae that is The Castle of Uske and we Englishmen Uske At this day it can shew nothing but the ruines of a large and strong Castle situate most pleasantly betweene the River Uske and Oilwy a Riveret which beneath it runneth from the East by Ragland a faire house of the Earle of Worcesters built Castle-like The third City which Antonine nameth ISCA and LEGIO SECUNDA is on the other side of Uske twelve Italian miles just distant from BURRIUM as hee hath put it downe The Britans call it Caer Leon and Caer LEON ar Uske that is The City of the Legion upon Uske of the second Legion Augusta which also is called Britannica Secunda This Legion being ordained by the Emperour Augustus and translated by Claudius out of Germany into Britaine under the conduct of Vespasian being ready at his command when he aspired to bee Emperour and which procured the Legions in Britaine to take his part was heere at last placed in Garison by Julius Frontinus as it seemeth against the Silures How great this ISCA was in those dayes listen unto our Girald out of his Booke called Itinerarium Cambriae who thus describeth it out of the ruines It was an ancient and Authenticke City excellently well built in old time by the Romanes with bricke Walles Heere may a man see many footings of the antique nobility and dignity it had mighty and huge Palaces with golden pinacles in times past resembling the proud statelinesse of the Romanes for that it had beene found first by Romane Princes and beautified with goodly buildings There may you behold a giant-like Towre notable and brave baines the remaines of Temples and Theatres all compassed in with faire walles which are partly yet standing There may one finde in every place as well within the circuit of the Wall as without houses under ground water pipes and Vaults within the earth and that which you will count among all the rest worth observation you may see every where ho●e houses made wondrous artificially breathing forth heate very closely at certaine narrow Tunnels in the sides Heere lye enterred two noble Protomartyrs of greater Britaine and next after Alban and Amphibalus the very principall heere crowned with Martyrdome namely Julius and Aaron and both of them had in this City a goodly Church dedicated unto them For in antient times there had beene three passing faire Churches in this City One of Julius the Martyr beautified with a chaire of Nunnes devoted to the service of God A second founded in the name of blessed Aaron his companion and ennobled with an excellent Order of Chanons Amphibalus also the Teacher of Saint Alban and a faithfull informer of him unto faith was borne heere The site of the City is excellent upon the River Oske able to beare a prety Vessell at an high water from the Sea and the City is fairely furnished with woods and medowes heere it was that the Romane Embassadours repaired unto the famous Court of that great King Arthur Where Dubritius also resigned the Archiepiscopall honour unto David of Menevia when the Metropolitane See was translated from hence to Menevia Thus much out of Giraldus But for the avouching and confirming of the Antiquity of this place I thinke it not impertinent to adjoyne heere those antique Inscriptions lately digged forth of the ground which the right reverend Father in God Francis Godwin Bishop of Landaffe a passing great lover of venerable Antiquity and of all good Literature hath of his courtesie imparted unto me In the yeere 1602. in a medow adjoyning there was found by ditchers a certaine image of a personage girt and short trussed bearing a quiver but head hands and feet were broken off upon a pavement of square tile in checker
part of the Shire Nature hath loftily areared it up farre and neere with Mountaines standing thicke one by another as if she would here have compacted the joynts of this Island within the bowels of the earth and made this part thereof a most sure place of refuge for the Britans in time of adversitie For there are so many roughes and Rocks so many vales full of Woods with Pooles heere and there crossing over them lying in the way betweene that no Armie nay not so much as those that are lightly appoynted can finde passage A man may truely if he please terme these Mountaines the British Alpes for besides that they are the greatest of the whole Island they are no lesse steepe also with cragged and rent Rockes on every side than the Alpes of Italie yea and all of them compasse one Mountaine round about which over-topping the rest so towreth up with his head aloft in the aire as he may seeme not to threaten the Skie but to thrust his head up into Heaven And yet harbour they the Snow for all the yeere long they be hory with Snow or rather with an hardened crust of many Snowes felted together Whence it is that all these hilles are in British by one name termed Craig Eriry in English Snow-don which in both languages sound as much as Snowie Mountaines like as Niphates in Armenia and Imaus in Scythia tooke their names as Plinie witnesseth of Snow Neverthelesse so ranke are they with grasse that it is a very common speech among the Welsh That the Mountaines Eriry will yeeld sufficient pasture for all the Cattaile in Wales if they were put upon them together Concerning the two Meares on the toppe of these in the one of which floreth a wandring Island and in the other is found great store of Fishes but having all of them but one eye a peece I will say nothing left I might seeme to foster fables although some confident upon the authoritie of Giraldus have beleeved it for a veritie Yet certaine it is that there be in the very toppe of these Mountaines Pooles in deed and standing Waters whereupon Gervase of Tilbury in his Booke entituled Otia Imperialia writeth thus In the Land of Wales within the bounds of great Britain there be high Hilles that haue laied their foundations upon most hard Rockes and in the toppe thereof the earth is crusted over with such a coate of waterish moisture that wheresoever a man doe but lightly set his foote he shall perceive the ground to stirre the length of a stones cast from him whereupon when the enemies came the Welsh with their agility and nimblenesse lightly leaping over the boggy ground either avoide the enemies assaults or to their losse resolutely expect their forces These Mountainers John Salisbury in his Polycraticon by a new forged Latine name termed Nivicollinos that is Snow-down inhabitants of whom in King Henry the Second his daies he wrote thus The Snow-downe Britans make inrodes and being now come out of their Caves and lurking holes of the Woods enlarge their borders possesse the plaines of the Noble men and whiles themselves looke on they assault they winne and overthrow them or else keepe the same to their owne behoofe because our youth which is so daintily brought up and loves to be house-birds and to live lazie in the shade being borne onely to devoure the fruits of the earth and to fill the belly sleepes untill it be broad day light c. But come wee downe now from the Mountaines into the Champion Plaines which because we finde no where else but by the Sea side it may suffice to coast only along the shore The Promontory which I said before shooteth out toward the South-west is in Ptolomee called according to the diversitie of copies CANGANUM JANGANUM and LANGANUM Which is the truest name I know not but LANGANUM it may seeme considering that the inhabitants name it at this day Lhein which runneth forth with a narrow and even by-land having larger and more open fields than the rest of the Country and the same yeelding Barley most plenteously Two little Townes it sheweth and no more that are memorable Farther within upon the Creeke is Pullhely that is that Salt Meare or Poole more outward by the Irish Sea hat beateth upon the other side of the Bi-land is Nevin a Village having a Merket kept in it wherein the Nobility of England in the yeere of our Lord 1284. in a Triumph over the Welsh did celebrate the memory of Arthur the great as Florilegus writeth with Iustes Turnaments and festivall pompe If any other Townes flourished here then were they destroied when Hugh Earle of Chester Robert of Rudland and Guarin of Salop entring into this Country first of all the Normans so wasted this Promontory that for the space of seven whole yeeres it lay dispeopled and desolate From Nevin the shore pointed and endented with one or two elbowes lying out into the sea tendeth Northward and then turning afront North-east by a narrow sea or Frith they call it Menai it serveth the Isle Anglesey from the firme land Upon this straight or narrow sea stood SEGONTIUM a City which Antonine the Emperour maketh mention of some reliques of the walles I saw neere unto a little Church built in honour of Saint Pulblicius It tooke the name of a River running by the side of it which yet at this day is called Seiont and issueth out of the Poole Lin-Peru In which there is a kinde of fish peculiar to that water and seene no where else called by the dwellers there Tor-coch of the belly that is somewhat red Now seeing that in an ancient copie of Ptolomee SETANTIORUM PORTUS is here placed which according to other copies is set farther off if I should reade in stead of it SEGONTIORUM PORTUS that is the Haven of the Segontians and say it stood upon the mouth of this River I should perhaps aime at the truth if not yet should I obtaine pardon for my conjecture of a courteous Reader This Citie Ninnius called Caer Custenith and hee that wrote the life of Gruffin the Sonne of Conan recordeth that Hugh Earle of Chester built a Castle in Hean Caer Custenith that is as the Latine Interpreter transl●teth it in the auncient Citie of Constantine the Emperour And Matthew of Westminster writeth but let him make it good if he can that the bodie of Constantius Father to Constantine the Great was here found in the yeere of our Lord 1283. and honourably bestowed in the Church of the new Citie by the commandement of King Edward the First Who out of the ruines of this Towne at the same time raised the Citie Caer-narvon somewhat higher upon the Rivers mouth so as that on the West and North-sides it is watered therewith Which as it was called Caer-narvon because it standeth right ouer against the Island Mona for so much
named Percies From thence Rhie carrieth with him the streames of many a brooke into Derwent which watereth in this vale Malton a Market towne well knowne and frequented for corne horses fish and implements of husbandry where are to be seene the foundations of an old Castle belonging as I have heard say in old time to the Vescies Barons in these parts of great estate and honor Their pedigree as appeareth evidently by the Kings records is derived from William Tyson who being Lord of Malton and of Alnewicke in Northumberland was slain in the battaile at Hastings against the Normans Whose onely daughter was given in marriage to Ivo de Vescy a Norman and hee left behind him his only daughter likewise named Beatrice with whō Eustach the son of Fitz Iohn with one eie contracted marriage who in the raigne of Stephen founded the religious houses at Malton and Watton For his second wife daughter to William Constable of Chester was Ladie of Watton William the sonne of Eustach by Beatrice being ripped out of his mothers wombe assumed unto him the name of Vescy and the Armes a Cross-floury Argent in a shield Gueles This William begat of Beatrice daughter to Robert Estotevill of Knaresburg two sonnes Eustach de Vescy who tooke to wife Margaret daughter to William King of the Scots and Sir Warin de Vescy Lord of Knapton As for Eustach father hee was of William who begat John that died without issue and William so renowned for his exploits in Ireland and these changed the Armes of their house into a shield Or with a crosse Sables But William after that his legitimate sonne John died in the warre of Wales granted unto King Edward certaine lands in Ireland that his illegitimate sonne William surnamed of Kildare might inherit his fathers estate And hee ordained Anthony Bec Bishop of Durrham his feofie in trust to the use of his sonne but he was scarce trusty as touching Alnewic Eltham in Kent and other lands which he is reported to have conveied indirectly to his owne use This illegitimate sonne young Vescy was slaine in the Battaile of Sterling in Scotland And at length the title fell backe unto the line of the Attons considering that Margaret the only daughter of Sir Gwarin Vescy was wedded unto Gilbert de Atton But heereof enough if not too much and of it I have spoken before Neere unto this vale there flourished two famous Abbaies Newborrough unto which we are indebted for William of Newborrough a learned and diligent writer of the English Historie now the habitation of the worshipfull family of Bellasise descended out of the Bishopricke of Durrham and Bellelanda commonly Biland both founded and endowed by Robert Mowbray This family of the Mowbraies was for power nobility and wealth comparable to any other and possessed very faire lands with the Castles of Slingesby Threske and others in this Tract The originall of this race if you desire to understand I will compendiously set it downe When Roger de Mowbray Earle of Northumberland and R. de Grunde-beofe for their disloialtie were dissezed of all their possessions King Henry the First bestowed a great part thereof upon Nigell or Niele de Albenie of the same family that the Albeneis Earles of Arundell were descended a man of very high birth in Normandie who had bin Bowbearer to King William Rufus and so enriched him thereby that he held in England 140. Knights fees and in Normandie 120. He commanded also that Roger his sonne should assume the name of Mowbray from whom flowred out the Mowbraies Earles of Nottingham and Dukes of Norfolke To these Mowbraies also belonged in times past Gilling Castle standing hard by but now unto that ancient and worshipfull family which of their faire bush of haire got their name Fairfax For Fax in the old English tongue signifieth haires or the haire of the head whereupon our progenitours called a Comet or blasing starre A Faxed starre like as a place whereof I have spoken before Haly-fax of holy haires Then beneath these Southward lieth Calaterium Nemus commonly called The Forest of Galtres shaded in some places with trees in other some a wet flat full of moist and moorish quavemires very notorious in these daies by reason of a solemne horse running wherein the horse that outrunneth the rest hath for his prise a little golden bell It is almost incredible what a multitude of people conflow hither from all parts to these games and what great wagers are laid on the horses heads for their swift running In this Forest standeth Creac which Egfrid King of Northumberland in the yeer 684 gave with three miles round about unto Saint Cuthbert by whom it came to the Church of Durrham Scarce foure miles hence is situate most pleasantly among little woods and groves Sherry-Hutton a very proper Castle built by Sir Bertrand Bulmer and reedified by Raulph Nevil the first Earle of Westmorland Neere unto which standeth Hinderskell a little Castle built by the Barons of Greystocke which others call Hunderd-skell of a number of fountaines that spring up and rise there Behind the hilles Westward where the country spreadeth it selfe out againe into a more fresh and plaine champion lieth Alverton-shire commonly called Northallerton-shire a little countrie watered with the riveret Wiske and taking the name of Northalverton a towne sometime called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is nothing else but a long broad street howbeit having in it on S. Bartholomewes day the greatest Faire of Kine and Oxen and of most resort that ever I saw in all my life King William Rufus gave this with the territory adjoining unto the Church of Durrham to the Bishops of which See it is very much beholden For William Comin who by force held the Bishopricke of Durrham built the Castle there and granted it unto his nephew which now is in manner quite decaied and gone The Bishops likewise his successors granted unto it certaine liberties and immunities For in the Booke of Durrham we read that Hugh Pudsey Bishop of Durrham fortified the towne having obtained licence of the King that among those unlawfull castles which by Commandement were then destroyed in many places of England this onely should have the priviledge to stand still which notwithstanding the King commanded afterward to be layd even with the ground Hard by this was that field foughten which they commonly call the Battaile of the Standard in which David King of Scots who with his unexampled cruelty had made this country almost a wildernesse was after so great a slaughter of his people put to flight that then and never before our countrimen thought they were fully revenged For that indeed came to passe in this battaile which Raulfe the Bishop said when before the battaile in an oration he encouraged the English to fight A confused multitude untrained is an impediment to it selfe in prosperous successe to hurt others and in adverse
his owne hopes and so hee raised that deadly Warre betweene the Houses of Yorke and Lancaster distinguished by the white and red Rose wherein himselfe soone after lost his life at Wakefield King Henry the Sixth was foure times taken Prisoner and in the end despoiled both of his Kingdome and life Edward Earle of March sonne to the said Richard obtained the Crowne and being deposed from the same recovered it againe thus inconstant fortune disported herselfe lifting up and throwing downe Princes at her pleasure many Princes of the royall bloud and a number of the Nobility lost their lives those hereditary and rich Provinces in France belonging to the Kings of England were lost the wealth of the Realme wholly wasted and the poore people thereof overwhelmed with all manner of misery Edward now being established in his royall Throne and in the ranke of Kings carrying the name of Edward the Fourth gave unto Richard his second sonne the Title of Duke of Yorke who together with king Edward the Fifth his brother was by their Unkle Richard the Third murdered Then king Henry the Seventh granted the same Title unto his younger sonne who afterwards was crowned king of England by the name of Henry the Eight And even now of late King James invested Charles his second sonne whom before hee had created in Scotland Duke of Albany Marquesse of Ormond Earle of Rosse and Baron of Ardmanoch a childe not full foure yeeres of age Duke of Yorke by cincture of a sword imposition of a Cap and Coronet of gold upon his head and by delivering unto him a verge of gold after he had according to the order with due complements made the day before both him and eleven more of Noble Parentage Knights of the Bath Reckoned there are in this County Parishes 459. under which he very many Chappels for number of Inhabitants equall unto great Parishes RICHMOND-SHIRE THE rest of this Country which lyeth toward the North-West and carryeth a great compasse is called Richmond-shire or Richmount-shire taking the name from a Castle which Alan Earle of little Britaine had built unto whom William the Conquerour gave this Shire which before time belonged to Eadwin an Englishman by these short letters Patents as it is set downe in the booke of Richmond Fees I William sirnamed Bastard King of England doe give and grant unto thee my Nephew Alane Earle of Britaine and to thine heires for ever all and every the Manour houses and lands which late belonged to Earle Eadwin in Yorke-shire with the Knights fees and other liberties and customes as freely and in as honourable wise as the said Eadwin held the same Given at our Leaguer before the City of Yorke This Shire most of it lieth very high with ragged rockes and swelling mountaines whose sloping sides in some places beare good grasse the bottomes and vallies are not altogether unfruitfull The hilles themselves within are stored with lead pit-coale and Coper For in a Charter of king Edward the Fourth there is mention made of a Mine or Delfe of Copper neere unto the very towne of Richmond But covetousnesse which driveth men even as farre as to hell hath not yet pierced into these hilles affrighted perchance with the difficulty of carriage whereas there have beene found in the tops of these mountaines as also in other places stones like unto sea winkles or cockles and other sea fish if they be not the wonders of nature I will with Orosius a Christian Historiographer deeme them to be undoubted tokens of the generall deluge that surrounded the face of the whole earth in Noahs time When the Sea saith he in Noahs daies overflowed all the earth and brought a generall floud so that the whole Globe thereof being therewith surrounded and covered there was one face as of the Firmament so also of the Sea The soundest Writers most evidently teach That all mankinde perished a few persons excepted who by vertue of their faith were reserved alive for offspring and propagation Howbeit even they also have witnessed that some there had beene who although they were ignorant of the times past and knew not the Authour himselfe of times yet gathered conjecturally as much by giving a guesse by those rough stones which wee are wont to finde on hilles remote from the Sea resembling Cocles and Oisters yea and oftentimes eaten in hollow with the waters Where this Country bordereth upon Lancashire amongst the mountaines it is in most places so waste solitary unpleasant and unsightly so mute and still also that the borderers dwelling thereby have called certaine Riverets creeping this way Hell-beckes But especially that about the head of the River Ure which having a Bridge over it of one entire stone falleth downe such a depth that it striketh in a certaine horror to as many as looke downe And in this Tract there be safe harbors for Goates and Deere as well red as fallow which for their huge bignesse with their ragged and branching hornes are most sightly The River Ure which wee have often spoken of before hath his fall heere out of the Westerne Mountaines and first of all cutting through the middest of the Vale called Wentsedale whiles it is yet but small as being neere unto his Spring-head where great flockes of Sheepe doe pasture and which in some places beareth Lead stones plentifully is encreased by a little River comming out of the South called Baint which with a great noise streameth out of the Poole Semer. At the very place where these Rivers meete and where there stand a few small Cotages which of the first Bridge made over Ure they call Baintbrig there lay in old time a Garison of the Romanes whereof the very Reliques are at this day remaining For on the toppe of an hill which of a Fort or Burge they now call Burgh appeare the ground workes of an ancient Hold containing about five acres of ground in compasse and beneath it Eastward many tokens of some old habitation and dwelling places Where amongst many other signes of Roman Antiquity I have seene of late this fragment of an antique Inscription in a very faire letter with Winged Victory supporting the same IMP CAES. L. SEPTIMIO PIO PERTINACI AUGU IMP CAESARI M. AURELIO APIO FELICI AUGUSTO BRACCHIO CAEMENTICIUM VI NER VIORUM SUB CURALA SENECINON AMPLISSIMIO PERIL VISPIUS PRAELEGIO By this we may guesse that the said hold at Burgh was in times past named BRACCHIUM which before time had been made of turfe but now built with stone and the same layed with good morter Also that the sixth Cohort of the Nervians lay there in Garison who may seeme to have had also their place of Summer aboade in that high hill hard by fensed with a banke and trench about it which now they tearme Ethelbury And not long since there was digged up the Statue of Aurelius Commodus the Emperour who as Lampridius writeth was sirnamed by his flattering
or Band of the Exploratores with their Captaine kept their station heere under the dispose of the Generall of Britaine as appeareth for certaine out of the NOTICE of Provinces where it is named LAVATRES But whereas such Bathes as these were called also in Latine Lavacra some Criticke no doubt will pronounce that this place was named LAVATRAE in stead of LAVACRA yet would I rather have it take the name of a little river running neere by which as I heare say is called Laver. As for the later name Bowes considering the old Towne was heere burnt downe to the ground as the inhabitants with one voice doe report I would thinke it grew upon that occasion For that which is burnt with fire the Britans still at this day doe terme Boeth and by the same word the Suburbes of Chester beyond the River Dee which the Englishmen call Hanbridge the Britans or Welshmen name Treboeth that is The burnt Towne because in a tumult of the Welshmen it was consumed with fire Heere beginneth to rise that high hilly and solitary Country exposed to winde and raine which because it is stony is called in our native language Stane more All heere round about is nothing but a wilde Desert unlesse it bee an homely Hostelry or Inne in the very middest thereof called The Spitle on Stane more for to entertaine waifaring persons and neere to it is a fragment of a Crosse which wee call Rerecrosse the Scots Reicrosse as one would say The Kings Crosse. Which Crosse Hector Boetius the Scottish Writer recordeth to have beene erected as a meere stone confining England and Scotland what time as King William the Conquerour granted Cumberland unto the Scots on this condition that they should hold it of him as his Tenants and not attempt any thing prejudiciall or hurtfull to the Crowne of England And a little lower upon the Romanes high street there stood a little Fort of the Romans built foure square which at this day they call Maiden-Castle From whence as the borderers reported the said High way went with many windings in and out as farre as to Caer Vorran in Northumberland There have beene divers Earles of Richmond according as the Princes favour enclined and those out of divers families whom I will notwithstanding set downe as exactly and truely as I can in their right order The first Earles were out of the house of little Britaine in France whose descent is confusedly intricate amongst their owne Writers for that there were two principall Earles at once one of Haulte Britaine and another of Base Britaine for many yeeres and every one of their children had their part in Gavell kinde and were stiled Earles of Britaine without distinction But of these the first Earle of Richmond according to our Writers and Records was Alane sirnamed Feregaunt that is The Red sonne of Hoel Earle of Britaine descended from Hawise great Aunt to William Conquerour who gave this Country unto him by name of the lands of Earle Eadwin in Yorke-shire and withall bestowed his daughter upon him by whom he had no issue He built Richmond Castle as is before specified to defend himselfe from disinherited and outlawed Englishmen in those parts and dying left Britaine to his sonne Conan Le Grosse by a second wife But Alane the Blacke sonne of Eudo sonne of Geffrey Earle of Britaine and Hawise aforesaid succeeded in Richmond and he having no childe lest it to Stephen his brother This Stephen begat Alan sirnamed Le Savage his sonne and successour who assisted king Stephen against Maude the Empresse in the battaile at Lincolne and married Bertha one of the heires of Conan Le Grosse Earle of Hault Britaine by whom hee had Conan Le Petit Earle of both Britaine 's by hereditary right as well as of Richmond Hee by the assistance of King Henrie the Second of England dispossessed Endo Vicount of Porhoet his Father in Lawe who usurped the Title of Britaine in right of the said Bertha his Wife and ended his life leaving onely one daughter Constance by Margaret sister to Malcolne king of the Scots Geffrey third Sonne to King Henry the Second of England was advanced by his Father to the marriage of the said Constance whereby hee was Earle of Britaine and Richmond and begat of her Arthur who succeeded him and as the French write was made away by King Iohn his Unkle True it is indeed that for this cause the French called King Iohn into question as Duke of Normandy And notwithstanding he was absent and not heard once to plead neither confessing ought nor convicted yet by a definitive sentence they condemned him and awarded from him Normandy and his hereditary possessions in France Albeit himselfe had promised under safe conduct to appeare in personally at Paris there to make answere as touching the death of Arthur who as a Liege subject had bound himselfe by oath to bee true and loyall unto him and yet started backe from his allegeance raised a rebellion and was taken prisoner in battaile At which time this question was debated whether the Peeres of France might give judgement of a King annointed and therefore superiour considering that a greater dignity drowneth the lesser and now one and the same person was both King of England and Duke of Normandy But whither doe I digresse After Arthur these succeeded orderly in the Earldome of Richmond Guy Vicount of Thovars unto whom the foresaid Constance was secondly married Ranulph the third Earle of Chester the third husband of the said Constance Peter of Dreux descended from the bloud royall of France who wedded Alice the onely daughter of Constance by her husband abovenamed Guy Then upon dislike of the house of Britaine Peter of Savoy Unkle by the mothers side unto Eleonor the wife of king Henry the Third was made Earle of Richmond who for feare of the Nobles and Commons of England that murmured against strangers preferred to honours in England voluntarily surrendred up this Honour which was restored to Iohn Earle of Britaine sonne to Peter of Dreux After whom succeeded Iohn his sonne the first Duke of Britaine who wedded Beatrice daughter to Henry the Third King of England Whose sonne Arthur was Duke of Britaine and as some write Earle of Richmond Certes John of Britaine his younger brother immediately after the fathers death bare this honourable Title And he added unto the ancient Armes of Drewx with the Canton of Britaine the Lions of England in Bordeur Hee was Guardian of Scotland under King Edward the Second and there taken and detained prisoner for three yeeres space and dyed at length without issue in the Raigne of Edward the Third And John Duke of Britaine his nephew the sonne of Arthur succeeded in this Earledome After his decease without children when there was hote contention about the Dutchy of Britaine betweene John Earle of Montfort of the halfe bloud and Joane his brothers daughter and heire
to yeeld much ground within their Confines yea and to render many Castles But this may suffice as touching Durham which I will take my leave of if you thinke good with a Distichon of Necham and an Hexastichon of John Jonston Arte sitúque loci munita Dunelmia salve Qua floret sancta religionis apex VEDRA ruens rapidis modò cursibus agmine leni Séque minor celebres suspicit urbe viros Quos dedit ipsa olim quorum tegit ossa sepulta Magnus ubi sacro marmore BEDA cubat Se jactant aliae vel religione vel armis Haec armis cluit haec religione potens Durham by art and site of place well fensed now farewell Where for devout Religion the Mitre doth excell The River Were that ranne most swift ere while with streame now soft And chanell lesse to famous men in towne lookes up aloft Whom once it bred and of whose bones in grave it is possest Where under sacred marble stone Great Beda now doth rest Of Armes or of Religion may other boast I grant For Armes and for Religion both this City makes her vaunt Concerning the Monkes that were cast out at the suppression of the Abbaies the twelve Prebendaries and two Arch-Deacons placed in this Church and the Priours name changed into the Dignity of a Deane I neede not to say any thing for they are yet in fresh memory And unwilling I am to remember how this Bishopricke was dissolved by a private Statute and all the possessions thereof given to Edward the Sixth when private greedinesse edged by Church-men did grinde the Church and withdrew much from God wherewith Christian Piety had formerly honoured God But Queene Mary repealed that Statute and restored the said Bishopricke with all the Possessions and Franchises thereof that God might enjoy his owne The Longitude of this City is 22. Degrees The Latitude 54. Degrees and 57. minutes Beneath Durham that I many not overpasse it standeth Eastward a very faire Hospitall which Hugh Pudsey that most wealthy Bishop and Earle of Northumberland so long as it was Being very indulgently compassionate to Lepres as Neubrigensis writeth built with coste I must needes say profuse enough but in some sort not so honest as who layed no small deall of other mens right so great was his power upon this devotion whiles hee thought much to disburse sufficient of his owne Howbeit hee assigned unto it revenewes to maintaine threescore and five Lepres besides Masse Priests From Durham Were carrieth his streame Northward with a more direct course by Finchdale where in the Reigne of King Henry the Second Goodrick a man of the ancient Christian simplicity and austerity wholly devoted to the service of God led a solitary life and ended his daies being buried in the same place wherein as that William of Neuborrow saith hee was wont either to lye prostrate whiles he prayed or to lay him downe when he was sicke Who with this his devout simplicity drew men into so great an admiration of him that R. brother unto that rich Bishop Hugh Pudsey built a Chappell in memoriall of him From thence Were passeth by Lumley Castle standing within a Parke the ancient seat of the Lumleies who descended from Liulph a man in this tract of right great Nobility in the time of King Edward the Confessour who marryed Aldgitha the daughter of Aldred Earle of Northumberland Of these Lumleies Marmaduke assumed unto him his mothers Coate of Armes in whose right hee was seized of a goodly inheritance of the Thwengs namely Argent of Fesse Gueles betweene three Poppinjaes Vert whereas the Lumleies before time had borne for their Armes Six Poppinjaes Argent in Gueles For she was the eldest daughter of Sir Marmaduke Thweng Lord of Kilton and one of the heires of Thomas Thweng her brother But Ralph sonne to the said Marmaduke was the first Baron Lumley created by King Richard the Second which honour John the ninth from him enjoyed in our daies a man most honourable for all the ornaments of true Nobility Just over against this place not farre from the other banke of the River standeth Chester upon the Street as one would say the Castle or little City by the Port way side the Saxons called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 whereupon I would deeme it to be CONDERCUM in which as the booke of Notices recordeth the first wing of the Astures in the Romanes time kept station and lay in Garison within the Line or precinct as that booke saith of the WALL For it is but a few miles distant from that famous WALL whereof I am to speake heereafter The Bishops of Lindifarre lived obscurely heere with the corps of Saint Cuthbert whiles the raging stormes of the Danes were up for the space of an hundred and thirteene yeeres In memory whereof when Egelricke Bishop of Durham layed the foundation of a new Church in that place he found such a mighty masse of money buried within the ground as is thought by the Romans that wallowing now in wealth he gave over his Bishopricke and being returned to Peterborrow whereof hee had beene Abbot before made causeies through the Fennes and raised other Workes not without exceeding great charges And a long time after Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem erected heere a Collegiat Church a Deane and seven Prebends In which Church the Lord Lumley abovesaid placed and ranged in goodly order the Monuments of his Ancestours in a continued line of succession even from Liulph unto these our daies which he had either gotten together out of Monasteries that were subverted or caused to bee made a new And further within almost in the middest of the Triangle there is another little Village also knowne of late by reason of the College of a Deane and Prebendaries founded by that Antony Bec at Lanchester which I once thought to have beene LONGOVICUM a station of the Romanes But let us returne unto Were which now at length turneth his course Eastward and running beside Hilton a Castle of the Hiltons a Family of ancient Gentry venteth his waters with a vast mouth into the sea at Wiran-muth as Bede tearmeth it now named Monkes Were-mouth because it belonged to the Monkes Touching which mouth or out-let thus writeth William of Malmesbury This Were where hee entereth into the Sea entertaineth Shippes brought in with a faire Gale of Winde within the gentle and quiet bosome of his Out-let Both the Bankes whereof Benedict Bishop beautified with Churches and built Abbaies there one in the name of Saint Peter and the other of Saint Paul The painfull industry of this man hee will wonder at who shall reade his life for that hee brought hither great store of bookes and was the first man that ever procured Masons and Glasiers for windowes to come into England Five miles higher the River Tine doth also unlade it selfe which together with Derwent for a good way lineth out as it
were the North side of this Country Upon Derwent which hath his spring head neere unto the top of the Triangle there standeth nothing of note unlesse it bee a little Village which now they call Ebchester of Ebba a virgin of the bloud royall of the Northumbers of whom there went so great a name and opinion for her sanctimony and devotion about the yeere 630. that being canonized among the Saints she hath many Churches in this Island dedicated unto her which the common sort usually call Saint Tabbs for Saint Ebbes But by Tine there is situate a memorable Towne called Gateshead in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by Latin Historians Caprae Caput which is the same as one would say Goates head and is as it were the Suburbs of Newcastle standing on the hether side of Tine whereunto also it was annexed by King Edward the Sixth when the Bishopricke was dissolved But Queene Mary soone after restored it againe unto the Church The common people thinke it is farre more ancient than Newcastle it selfe And if I also should say that this and Newcastle together for one Towne it may seeme in old time to have beene divided onely by the River was that Frontier Station which under the later Emperours they called GABROSENTUM and was kept by the second Band of the Thracians and that it retained still the ancient name in sense and signification whereas New-castle hath gotten once or twice a new name I hope my opinion would be nothing dissonant from the truth For Gaffr in the British tongue signifieth a Goat and Hen in ordinary speech is used for Pen which betokeneth an Head and in the very same signification our old Historiographers tearme it in Latine Caprae Caput like as Brundusium in the Messapians Language tooke that name from a Stagges head I would thinke that this name was given unto this place by occasion of some Inne that had a Goats head for the signe even as Gallus Gallinaccus that is The Housecocke Tres Sorores that is Three sisters and Pirum that is The Peare Places in Africke Spaine and Italie whereof Antonine maketh mention which of such signes as some learned men suppose tooke their names And our Historians all with one accord name this Towne Caprae Caput when they record that Walcher Bishop of Durham whom King William the First had made Governour over Northumberland with the authority of an Earle was slaine in this place by the furious multitude for misgoverning the Country Beneath this Towne almost at the very mouth of Tine is to be seene Girwy now Iarrow the native soile of venerable Bede where also in ancient times flourished a little Monastery The Founder whereof and the time of the foundation this inscription sheweth which is yet extant in the Church wall DEDICATIO BASILICAE S. PAULI VIII KL MA II. ANNO XVI ECFRIDI REG. CEOLFRIDI ABB. EIUSDEMQ ECCLES DEO AUCTORE CONDITORIS ANNO IIII. These greater Churches when the Saving light of Christ shone upon the world let it not seeme impertinent to note so much by occasion of the word Basilica were termed BASILICAE for that the Basilicae of the Gentiles which were large and spatious Hauls wherein Magistrates sat in judgement and ministred Justice were converted into Christian Churches Whence Ausonius wrote thus Basilica olim negotijs plena c. The Basilica or Haull of Justice in times past full of businesses is now as full of Praiers and vowes or else because they were built in forme somewhat long in manner of those Basilicae Heere our Bede the singular glory and ornament of England who for his Piety and learning got the sirname of VENERABILIS bestowed all diligence as himselfe saith in meditation of the Scriptures and amid the most boisterous billowes and surging waves of Barbarisme wrote many most learned Volumes When hee was once dead there was buried with him as William of Malmesbury saith all the knowledge well neere of Acts and Monuments untill our time For when there succeeded ever one more lazie than another the heat of good studies was abated and cooled through the whole Land And the Danes for their part plagued this holy place in such wise that shortly after the Conquest when some in these Countries went in hand to reestablish the Monkes againe and Walcher the Bishop assigned this place for them Onely walles as saith mine Authour were standing without any roofe and it scarcely retained any signe of the ancient dignity howbeit for all that they framing a roofe over head of rough hewen wood such as they could get and thatching it with straw beganne to celebrate Divine Service therein I neede not to make a Catalogue of the Bishops of Durham who are reputed Count-Palatines Let it suffice to intimate thus much that since the first time a See was heere erected in the yeere of our Redemption 995. there have sitten in it 35. Bishops unto our daies Of which these were most eminent Hugh Pudsey nobly descended and allyed to King Stephen who for a thousand and thirteene pounds presently disbursed purchased of King Richard the First the Country of Northumberland for his life and Sathbrege to his successours for ever and built that goodly Hospitall whereof I spake betweene whom and the Archbishop there arose a most bitter controversie Whiles as he writeth of them hic praesse ille non subesse neuter prodesse contenderet that is One would bee superiour the other would not bee inferiour and neither of them would doe any good Antony Bec Patriarch of Jerusalem who spent infinite summes of money upon vast buildings and glorious furniture Thomas Wolsey Cardinall who in his high prosperity wanted nothing but moderation but his History is sufficiently knowne And Cuthbert Tunstall who dyed in our time for singular knowledge in the best Sciences sincere holinesse of life and great wisdome approved in domesticall and forraigne imployments was without offence bee it spoken equivalent to them all and a singular Ornament to his native Countrie In this Province and in Northumberland beside very many Chappels are counted Parish Churches 118. LANCASTRIAE Comitalus palatinus olim pars BRIGANTUM LANCA-SHIRE I Must now turne the course of my journey another way unto the rest of the BRIGANTES who were planted on the farther side of the Hilles toward the Irish Sea and first unto LANCA-SHIRE which I goe unto God speede mee well after a sort somewhat against my will For I feare me that I shall not satisfie my selfe and much lesse the Reader For very few things fell out to my desire when I travailed over the greatest part thereof the old names in every place have beene so worne out by the continuall assault of Time But least I might bee thought to neglect the hearty good Lanca-shire men I will proceed in hope that Gods assistance which hitherto hath beene favourable unto me will not now faile me Under those mountaines which
the West twenty degrees and forty eight minutes in Longitude Whiles I looked round about from the top of the said castle hill to see the mouth of Lone that issueth it selfe into the sea a little lower Fornesse the other part of this shire appeared in sight which the sea hath after a sort violently rent apart from the rest For when as the shore did from hence shoote out a maine way into the West the Ocean as it were much displeased and angry hereat obstinately ceased not to flash and mangle it nay which is more hath with his fell flowing at boisterous tides devoured the shore and thereby maketh three wide cre●kes or bayes namely Kent-sand at which the river Ken powreth it selfe forth Leven-sand and Dudden-sand betweene which two the land beareth out so much that thereupon it tooke the name For with us in our language For-nesse Foreland is all one with the Latine Promontorium anterius that is a Fore-promontory All this part unlesse it be hard by the sea side mounteth up aloft with high topped hils and huge fels standing thicke together which they tearme Forness-fells Among which the Britans lived safe a great while trusting upon these strong naturall fenses although the victorious English Saxons made way through all in the end For in the yeere 228. after there comming in I gather that the Britans had their abode here because Egfride King of Northumberland gave unto Holy Saint Cuthbert the land called Carthmell and all the Britans in it thus we finde written in his life and it is very well knowne that Carthmell is a part of this shire by Kentsand and a little towne in it retaineth yet the same name Wherein William Mareschall the elder Earle of Pembroch built a Priory and endowed it with living If you read in Ptolomee SETANTIORUM 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Setantians Mere as some Copies have and not Setantiorum 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Setantians Haven I durst boldly avouch that these Britans here were called SETANTII For among these mountaines the greatest standing water in all England now called Winander-mere in the English Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 haply of his winding and turning in and out lieth stretched out for the space of ten miles or thereabout with crooked bankes and is all paved as it were with stone in the bottome in some places of wonderfull depth and breeding a peculiar kinde of fish found no where else which the inhabitants there by call A Chare And a little village standing hard by carrieth the name thereof In which Eathred King of Northumberland in the yeer of Christ 792. when he had by force fetched King Elfwolds sonnes out of Yorke flue them that by his owne wickednesse and their blood hee might secure the Kingdome to himselfe and his Betwixt this Mere and the river Dudden the promontory runneth out which wee commonly call Fornesse and hath the Iland Walney as a fore-fence or countremure lying along by it with a small arme of the sea betweene The gullet or entry into which is defended with a fort called the Pile of Fouldrey standing in the midst of the waves upon a rocke erected there by the Abbot of Fornesse in the first yeere of King Edward the third As for the Promontory it selfe there is nothing worth the sight in it unlesse it be the ruines of a monastery of Cistertian Monkes called Fornesse Abbey which Stephen Earle of Bullen afterwards King of England in the yeere of our redemption 1127. built in a place called sometimes Bekensgill or translated rather from Tulket in Andernesse Out of the Monkes whereof and from no place else as they themselves have reported the Bishops of the Isle of Man that lieth just over against were by an ancient custome wont to bee elected as having beene the mother as it were of many Monasteries in the said Man and in Ireland More Eastward standeth Aldingham an ancient hereditament belonging to the family of the Haveringtons or Harringtons unto whom it came from the Flemmings by the Cancefelds and whose inheritance descended by a daughter unto William Bonvill of Somersetshire and at last by him unto the Greies Marquesses of Dorset And somwhat higher is Ulverston in this regard not to bee passed over in silence for that King Edward the third gave a moity thereof unto Sir John Coupland a most brave warriour whom also he advanced to the dignity of a Banaret because in the battaile at Durham he took David the second King of the Scots prisoner But after his decease the same King granted it with other faire lands in this tract and the title also of Earle of Bedford unto Ingelram Lord Coucy of France as who had married his daughter Isabel and whose ancestours in right of Christiana Lindsey had great revenewes in England Touching the noble men which have borne the title of Lancaster there were in the first infancy of the Norman Empire three stiled Lords of the Honour of Lancaster namely Roger of Poictou the sonne of Roger Mont-gomery who was surnamed Pictavensis as William of Malmesbury writeth because hee had married a wife from out of Poictou in France But when he had by his perfidious disloyalty lost this honour William the sonne of King Stephen and Earle of Moriton and Warren had the same given unto him by his Father After whose death King Richard the first bestowed it upon his brother John who was afterward King of England For thus we read in an old History King Richard declared his singular love to his brother Iohn For beside Ireland and the Earledome of Moriton in Normandy he heaped upon him so many dignities in England that he was in maner a Tetrarch there Finally he conferred upon him Cornwall Lancaster Notingham Derby with the country adjoining and many more beside A good while after King Henry the third the sonne of John first advanced Edmund his second sonne called by some Crouth-backe to the title of Earle of Lancaster unto whom hee conveyed and made over the inheritances and honours of Simon Montfort Earle of Leicester Robert Ferrars Earle of Derby and John of Monmouth because they had risen and rebelliously born armes against him and he gave this Honor of Lancaster unto him in these words The Honour County Castle and Town of Lancaster with the Cow-pastures forrests of Wiresdale Lownsdale New castle under Lime the manour forrest and Castle of Pickering the manor of Scaleby the towne of Gomicester and the rents of the towne of Huntendon c. After hee the said Edmund had missed the kingdome of Sicily in which the Pope had invested him in vaine by a ring and not without ridiculous disgrace to the English nation caused in honour of him certaine peeces of gold to bee stamped with this title AIMUNDUS REX SICILIAE having first cunningly suckt a great masse of money from the credulous King in this regard This Edmund
and Westward with one and an halfe the name of the place is now Whiteley Castle and for to testifie the antiquity thereof there remaineth this imperfect inscription with letters inserted one in another after a short and compendious manner of writing whereby wee learne that the third Cohort of the Nervians erected there a Temple unto the Emperour Antonine sonne of Severus IMP. CAES. Lucii Septimi Severi AraBICI ADIABENICI PARTHICI MAX. FIL. DIVI ANTONINI Pii Germanici SARMA NEP. DIVIANTONINI PII PRON. DIVI HADRIANI ABN DIVI TRAIANI PARTH ET DIVI NERVAE ADNEPOTI M. AURELIO ANTONINO PIO FEL AUG GERMANICO PONT MAX. TR. POT X IMP. COS. IIII. P. p. PRO PIETATE AEDE VOTO COMMUNI CURANTE LEGATO AUG PR COH III. NERVIO RVM G. R.POS Whereas therefore the third Cohort of the Nervii served in this place which Cohort the booke of Notices in a latter time placeth at ALIONE or as Antonine nameth it ALONE and the little river running underneath is named Alne if I should thinke this were ALONE it might seeme rather probable than true considering the injury of devouring time and the fury of enemies have long agoe outworne these matters out of all remembrance Albeit when the State of the Romane Empire decaied most in Britain this country had been most grievously harried and spoiled by the Scots and Picts yet it preserved and kept long the ancient and naturall inhabitants the Britans and late it was ere it became subject to the English Saxons But when againe the English Saxons state sore shaken by Danish warres ran to ruine it had peculiar Governors called Kings of Cumberland unto the yeere of our Lord 946. at what time as the Floure-gatherer of Westminster saith King Edmund by the helpe of Leoline Prince of South-wales wasted and spoiled all Cumberland and having put out the eyes of both the sonnes of Dunmail King of the same Province hee granted that kingdome unto Malcolme King of Scots to be holden of him that he might defend the North parts of England by land and sea from the inrodes and invasions of the common enemies Whereupon the eldest sons of the Kings of Scotland were for a while under the English Saxons and Danes both called the Prefects or Deputy Rulers of Cumberland But when England had yeelded it selfe into the hands of the Normans this part also became subject unto them and fell unto the lot of Ralph de Meschines whose eldest sonne Ranulph was Lord of Cumberland and partly in his mothers right and partly by his Princes favour together Earle also of Chester But King Stephen to purchase favour with the Scots restored it unto them againe that they should hold it of him and the Kings of England Howbeit K. Henry the second who succeeded after him perceiving that this over great liberality of Stephen was prejudiciall both to himself and his realme demanded againe of the Scot Northumberland Cumberland and Westmorland And the K. of Scots as Newbrigensis writeth wisely considering that the King of England had in those parts both the better right and also greater power although he might have pretended the oath which he was said to have made unto his grandfather David what time hee was knighted by him yet restored he the foresaid marches according to his demand fully and wholly and received of him againe the Earledome of Huntingdon which by ancient right appertained to him As for Earles of Cumberland there were none before the time of King Henry the eighth who created Henry Lord Clifford who derived his pedigree from the Lords Vipont the first Earle of Cumberland who of Margaret the daughter of Henry Percy Earle of Northumberland begat Henry the second Earle hee by his first wife daughter to Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk had issue Margaret Countesse of Derby and by a second wife the daughter of Lord Dacre of Gillesland two sonnes George and Francis George the third Earle renowned for sea-service armed with an able body to endure travaile and a valorous minde to undertake dangers died in the yeere 1605. leaving one onely daughter the Lady Anne now Countesse of Dorset But his brother Sir Francis Clifford succeeded in the Earledome a man whose ardent and honorable affection to vertue is answerable in all points to his honourable parentage As for the Wardens of the West-marches against Scotland in this County which were Noblemen of especiall trust I need to say nothing when as by the union of both kingdomes under one head that office is now determined This shire reckoneth beside chappels 58. Parish Churches VALLUM SIVE MURUS PICTICUS That is THE PICTS VVALL THrough the high part of Cumberland shooteth that most famous Wall in no case to be passed over in silence the limit of the Roman Province the Barbarian Rampier the Forefence and Enclosure for so the ancient writers termed it being called in Dion 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a crosse Wall in Herodian 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a Trench or Fosse cast up by Antonine Cassiodore and others VALLUM that is the Rampier by Bede MURUS that is the Wall by the Britans Gual-Sever Gal-Sever Bal Val and Mur-Sever by the Scottish Scottishwaith by the English and those that dwell thereabout the Picts Wall or the Pehits Wall the Keepe Wall and simply by way of excellencie The Wall When the ambitious and valiant Romans finding by the guidance of God and assistance of vertue their successe in all their affaires above their wishes had enlarged their Empire every way so as that the very unwealdinesse thereof began now to be of it selfe fearefully suspected their Emperours thought it their best and safest policie to limit and containe the same within certaine bounds for in wisedome they saw That in all greatnesse there ought to be a meane like as the heaven in selfe reacheth not beyond the limited compasse and the seas are tossed to and fro within their owne precincts Now those limits or bounds according to the natures of the places were either naturall as the sea greater rivers mountaines wasts and desart grounds or artificiall as frontier-fenses namely trenches or dikes castles keeps or fortresses wards mounds and baricadoes by trees cut downe and plashed bankes rampiers and walls along which were planted garrisons of souldiers against the barbarous nations confining Whence it is that we read thus in the Novellae of Theodosius the Emperour Whatsoever lieth included within the power and regiment of the Romans is by the appointment and dispose of our Ancestors defended from the incursions of Barbarians with the rampier of a Limit Along these limits or borders souldiers lay garrisoned in time of peace within frontier-castles and cities but when there was any feare of waste and spoile from bordering nations some of them had their field-stations within the Barbarian ground for defence of the lands others made out-rodes into the enemies marches to discover how the enemies stirred yea and
place might still remaine entire In honour of Saint Oswald King they built a Chappell there And another in praise of him wrote in that unlearned age not unlearnedly thus Quis fuit Alcides quis Caesar Iulius aut quis Magnus Alexander Alcides se superasse Fertur Alexander mundum sed Iulius hostem Se simul Oswaldus mundum vicit hostem What was to Oswald Hercules What Iulius Caesar what Great Alexander Hercules is named much for that Himselfe he won Xander the world Iulius made foes to flye Oswald at once conquer'd himselfe the world and enemy Beneath Saint Oswalds both Tines meet in one after that South-Tine which keepeth just pace in parallel as it were with the wall about two miles from it hath passed by Langley Castle where sometimes under King John Sir Adam de Tindale had his Barony which afterwards came to Sir Nicolas Bolteby and of late belonged to the Percies and at Aidon runneth under the woodden weake bridge and shaking through the violence of the streame Tine by this time being now broader and broader continueth his course in one channell apace toward the Ocean by Hexham which Bede calleth Hangustald but the old English-Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 That this was named in the Romans time AXLELODUNUM where the first Cohort of the Spaniards had their station both the name implieth the high situation upon an hill answerable to the name when as the ancient Britans called an hill Dunum But as touching this heare what Richard Prior of this place saith who flourished 500. yeeres agoe Not farre from the river Tine Southward there standeth a towne now in these dayes verily but of meane bignesse and slenderly inhabited but in times past as the remaines of antiquity do beare witnesse very large and stately This place of the little river Hextold running downe by it and swelling otherwhiles like unto a flood with a swift streame is name Hextoldesham which town Etheldreda the wife of King Egfrid gave unto Saint Wilfrid in the yeere 675. that hee should exalt it with an Episcopall See who built there a Church that for the artificiall frame and passing beauty went beyond all the Minsters in England Take with you also that which William of Malmesbury wrote This was Crown-land when Wilfrid the Bishop exchanged with Queen Etheldreda other lands It was wonderfull to see what buildings were erected there with mighty high walls and how they were set out contrived with divers turning in out by winding staires all polished and garnished by the curious workmanship of Masons and Pargetters whom the hope of his liberality had allured from Rome so that these buildings carried a shew of the Romanes stately magnificence and stood very long struggling with time The foresaid King Egfrid placed an Episcopall See in this little City But that dignity after the eighth Bishop vanished cleane away whilest the Danish warres were at the hottest And so ever since it was counted onely a manour or Township belonging to the Archibishops of Yorke before the exchange made with King Henry the eighth wherby they resigned up their right This place was also renowned by reason of that bloudy battaile wherein John Nevill Marquesse Montacute encountred the leaders of the Lancastrian Faction with much courage and with greater successe put them to flight and therefore was created Earle of Northumberland by King Edward the fourth But now all the glory that it hath is in that ancient Abbey a part whereof is converted into a faire dwelling house belonging to Sir John Foster Knight As for the Church it standeth whole and sound save that the West end onely thereof is pulled downe and I assure you a right stately and sumptuous building it is within the quire whereof is to be seene an ancient tombe of a noble-man of that warlike family of the Umfranvils as appeareth by his Escutcheon of Armes lying with his legges acrosse After which fashion in those dayes were they onely enterred that I may note so much by the way who tooke upon them the crosse and were marked with the badge of the crosse for sacred warfare to recover the Holy land from the Mahometans and Turkes Hard by the East end also of this Church upon the brow of an hill are erected two most strong bulwarks of free stone which belong as I have heard unto the Archbishop of Yorke From hence we went Eastward and came to Dilston a mansion house of the Ratcliffes In old evidence it is found written Divelstone of a little river running into Tine which Bede called Divelesburn where as he writeth Oswald having the faith of Christ for his armour and defence in a set battaile slew Cedwalla the Britan that wicked and horrible Tyrant who had already slaine two Kings of Northumberland and depopulated the country all over On the other banke of Tine lieth CURIA OTTADINORUM whereof Ptolomee maketh mention it may seeme by the distance thereof to bee CORSTOPITUM in Antonine called at this day of the bridg Corbridge in Hovedons Annals Corobridge and in Henry of Huntingdon Cure It can shew nothing now but a Church and a little tower hard by which the Vicars of the Church built and wherein they dwell Howbeit there remaine still sundry reliques of antique worke among which King John searched for ancient treasure supposed to have beene buried there But he was overtaken in his owne vanity and deceived of his great expectation no lesse than Nero when hee searched for the hidden wealth of Dido at Carthage For nothing found hee but stones signed with brasse iron and lead But whoso shall see the heap of rubbish that lieth thereby and is called Colecester will soon say it was some hold of a Romane garrison Forward still upon the same banke wee saw Biwell a proper faire castle which in the reigne of King John was the Barony of Sir Hugh Balliol for which he did owe to the Ward of Newcastle upon Tine thirty Knights service Beneath this Castle there is a very goodly Weare for the catching of Salmons and two solid piles of most firme stone which in times past supported the bridge stand up in the midst of the river From hence Tine running underneath looketh up to Prudhow Castle in ancient bookes written Prodhow situate very pleasantly upon the ridge of an hill This may I ghesse to have beene PROTOLITIA which also is called PROCOLITIA the station of the first band of the Batavians till time tell me more and instruct mee better But it is famous in this regard that in King Henry the second his dayes it valiantly gave the check unto William King of Scots laying siege unto it when as William of Newborrough writeth hee had taken great paines to no purpose to his losse and hurt Afterwards it belonged to the Umfranvils men of great estimation among whom Sir Gilbert Umfranvill flourishing in the profession of armes in right of his wife attained the title of Earle
it became wholly under the Scots dominion about the yeere of our salvation 960. what time the English Empire sore shaken with the Danish wars lay as it were gasping and dying How also as an old booke Of the division of Scotland in the Library of the right honourable Lord Burghley late high Treasurer of England sheweth Whiles Indulph reigned the town of Eden was voided and abandoned to the Scots unto this present day as what variable changes of reciprocall fortune it hath felt from time to time the Historiographers doe relate and out of them ye are to be enformed Meane while read if you please these verses of that most worthy man Master I. Jonston in praise of Edenborrow Monte sub acclivi Zephyri procurrit in auras Hinc arx celsa illinc Regia clara nitet Inter utramque patet sublimibus ardua tectis Urbs armis animis clara frequensque viris Nobile Scotorum caput pars maxima regni Penè etiam gentis integra regna suae Rarae artes opes quod mens optaverit aut hîc Invenias aut non Scotia tota dabit Compositum hîc populum videas sanctum que Senatum Sanctáque cum puro lumine jura Dei An quisquam Arctoi extremo in limite mundi Aut haec aut paria his cernere posse putet Dic hospes postquàm externas lustraveris urbes Haec cernens oculis credis an ipse tuis Under the rising of an hill Westward there shoots one way A castle high on th' other side the Kings house gorgeous gay Betweene them both the citie stands tall buildings shew it well For armes for courage much renown'd much people therein dwell The Scots head citie large and faire the kingdomes greatest part Nay even the nations kingdome whole well neere by just desart Rare arts and riches what ones minde can wish is therein found Or else it will not gotten be throughout all Scottish ground A civill people here a man may see a Senate grave Gods holy lawes with purest light of Preachers here ye have In parts remote of Northren clime would any person weene That ever these or such like things might possibly be seene Say Travailer now after that thou forraine towne hast knowne Beholding this beleevest thou these eyes that are thine owne A mile from hence lyeth Leth a most commodious haven hard upon the river Leth which when Dessey the Frenchman for the securitie of Edenborrow had fortified by reason of manie men repairing thither within a short time from a meane village it grew to be a bigge towne Againe when Francis the second King of France had taken to wife Marie the Queene of Scots the Frenchmen who in hope and conceit had already devoured Scotland and began now to gape for England in the yeere 1560. strengthened it with more fortifications But Elizabeth Queene of England solicited by the Nobles of Scotland that embraced the reformed religion to side with them by her puissance and wisdome effected that both they returned into France and these their fortifications were laied levell with the ground and Scotland ever since hath been freed from the French Where this Forth groweth more and more narrow it had in the middest of it the citie Caer-Guidi as Bede noteth which now may seeme to be the Island named Inch-Keith Whether this were that VICTORIA which Ptolomee mentioneth I will not stand to prove although a man may beleeve that the Romans turned this Guidh into Victoria as well as the Isle Guith or Wight into Victesis or Vecta certes seeing both these Islands bee dissevered from the shore the same reason of the name will hold well in both languages For Ninius hath taught us that Guith in the British tongue betokeneth a separation More within upon the same Forth is situate Abercorn in Bedes time a famous Monasterie which now by the gracious favour of King James the sixth giveth unto James Hamilton the title of the Earle of Abercorn And fast beside it standeth Blacknesse Castle and beneath it Southward the ancient citie LINDUM whereof Ptolomee maketh mention which the better learned as yet call Linlithquo commonly Lithquo beautified and set out with a verie faire house of the Kings a goodly Church and a fishfull lake of which lake it may seeme to have assumed that name for Lin as I have already shewed in the British tongue soundeth as much as a Lake A Sheriffe it had in times past by inheritance out of the family of the Hamiltons of Peyle and now in our dayes it hath for the first Earle Sir Alexander Levingston whom King James the sixth raised from the dignitie of a Baron wherein his Ancestours had flourished a long time to the honour of an Earle like as within a while after he promoted Mark Ker Baron of Newbottle aforesaid to the title of Earle of Lothien SELGOVAE BEneath the GADENI toward the South and West where now are the small territories of Lidesdale Eusdale Eskdale Annandale and Nidesdale so called of little rivers running through them which all lose themselves in Solway Frith dwelt in ancient times the SELGOVAE the reliques of whose name seeme unto mee whether unto others I know not to remaine in that name Solway In Lidesdale there riseth aloft Armitage so called because it was in times past dedicated to a solitarie life now it is a very strong Castle which belonged to the Hepburns who draw their originall from a certaine Englishman a prisoner whom the Earle of March for delivering him out of a danger greatly enriched These were Earles of Bothwell and a long time by the right of inheritance Admirals of Scotland But by a filter of James Earle of Bothwel the last of the Hepburns married unto John Prior of Coldingham base sonne to King James the fifth who begat too too many bastards the title and inheritance both came unto his son Hard by is Brakensey the habitation of the warlike family of Baclugh surnamed Scot beside many little piles or sorts of militarie men everie where In Eusdale I would deeme by the affinite of the name that old UZBLLUM mentioned by Ptolomee stood by the river Euse. In Eskdale some are of opinion that the HORESTI dwelt into whose borders Iulius Agricola when he had subdued the Britans inhabiting this tract brought the Roman armie especially if we read Horesci in stead of Horesti For Ar-Esc in the British tongue betokeneth a place by the river Eske As for Aesica in Eskdale I have spoken of it before in England and there is no cause wherefore I should iterate the same ANNANDALE UNto this on the West side adjoyneth ANNANDALE that is The vale by the river Annan into which the accesse by land is very difficult The places of greater note herein are these a castle by Lough-Mahan three parts whereof are environed with water and strongly walled and the towne Annandale at the very mouth almost
shooteth into the deepe sea and is to bee seene a farre off Hard by South Eske voideth it selfe into the Ocean which river flowing amaine out of a lake passeth by Finnevim Castle well knowne by reason of the Lindeseies Earles of Crawford keeping residence there of whom I have alreadie written Then upon the said river standeth Brechin which King David the first adorned with a Bishops See and at the very mouth thereof Mont-rose as one would say the Mount of Roses a towne in times past called Celurca risen by the fall of another towne bearing the same name which is seated betweene the two Eskes and imparteth the title of Earle to the family of the Grahams Concerning which towne Ionston hath these verses CELURCA five MONS ROSARUM Aureolis urbs picta rosis mons molliter urbi Imminet hinc urbi nomina facta canunt At veteres perhibent quondam dixisse Celurcam Nomine sic prisco nobilitata novo est Et prisca atque nova insignis virtute virumque Ingeniis patriae qui perperere decus MONT-ROSE With Roses gay the towne is deckt an easie Mount withall Stands neere the same and hence they say MONT-ROSE folke did it call In former times by ancient name Celurca men it knew Ennobled thus you see it is by name both old and new Both old and new renowne it hath for prowesse and for wit Of men that have their countrey grac'd and honour won to it Not farre from hence is Boschain belonging to the Barons of Ogiluy of very ancient nobilitie lineally descended from Alexander Sheriffe of Angus who was slaine in the bloodie battaile at Harley against the Mac Donald of the out Isles As touching the Earles of Angus Gilchrist of Angus renowned for his brave exploits under King Malcolm the fourth was the first Earle of Angus that I read of About the yeere 1242. Iohn Comin was Earle of Angus who died in France and his widow haply inheritrice to the Earldome was married to Sir Gilbert Umfranvill an Englishman For both hee and his heires successively after him were summoned to the Parliaments in England untill the third yeere of King Richard the second by the title of Earles of Angus Howbeit the Lawyers of England refused in their Brieves and instruments to acknowledge him Earle for that Angus was not within the kingdome of England untill hee had brought forth openly in the face of the Court the Kings writ and warrant wherein he was summoned to the Parliament by the name of Earle of Angus In the reigne of David Brus Thomas Stewart was Earle of Angus who by a suddaine surprise won Barwicke and streightwaies lost it yea and within a while after died miserably in prison at Dunbritton But the Douglasses men of haughtie mindes and invincible hearts from the time of King Robert the third have beene Earles of Angus after that George Douglasse had taken to wife the Kings daughter reputed the chiefe and principall Earles of Scotland and to whom this office belongeth to carrie the regall Crown before the Kings at all the solemne assemblies of the kingdome The sixth Earle of Angus out of this stocke was Archebald who espoused Margaret daughter to Henrie the seventh K. of England and mother to James the fifth King of Scots by whom he had issue Margaret wife to Matthew Stewart Earle of Lennox who after her brothers decease that died childlesse willingly resigned up her right and interest in this Earldome unto Sir David Douglasse of Peteindreich her unkles sonne by the fathers side and that with the consent of her husband and sonnes to the end that she might binde the surer unto her selfe by the linke also of a beneficiall demerite that family which otherwise in bloud was most neere what time as Henrie her son went about to wed Marie the Queen by which marriage King JAMES our Soveraigne the mightie Monarch of great Britaine was happily borne to the good of all Britaine MERNIS THese regions were in Ptolomees time inhabited by the VERNICONES the same perhaps that the VECTURIONES mentioned by Marcellinus But this their name is now quite gone unlesse wee would imagine some little peece thereof to remaine in Mernis For many times in common speech of the British tongue V. turneth into M. This small province Mernis abutting upon the German Ocean and of a rich and battle soile lieth very well as a plaine and levell Champion But the most memorable place therein is Dunnotyr a Castle advanced upon an high and unaccessible rocke whence it looketh downe to the underflowing sea well fensed with strong walls and turrets which hath beene a long time the habitation of the Keiths of an ancient and verie noble stock who by the guidance of their vertue became hereditarie Earles Mareschals of the kingdome of Scotland and Sheriffes of this province In a porch or gallerie here is to bee seene that ancient inscription which I mentioned even now of a companie belonging to the twentieth legion the letters whereof the right noble and honourable Earle now living a great lover of antiquitie caused to be guilded Somewhat farther from the sea standeth Fordon graced in some sort and commendable in regard of John de Fordon who being borne here diligently and with great paines compiled Scoti Chronicon that is The Scottish Chronicle unto whose laborious studies the Scottish Historiographers are very much indebted but more glorious and renowned in old time for the reliques of St. Palladius bestowed and shrined sometime as is verily thought in this place who in the yeere 431. was by Pope Caelestinas appointed the Apostle of the Scottish nation MARRIA or MAR. FRom the sea in the mediterranean or inland parts above Mernis MAR enlargeth it selfe and runneth forward threescore miles or thereabout where it lieth broadest Westwards it swelleth up with mountaines unlesse it bee where the rivers Dee which Ptolomee calleth DIVA and Done make way for themselves and enfertile the fields Upon the bank of Done Kildrummy standeth as a faire ornament to the countrey being the ancient seat of the Earles of Marre and not farre distant from it the habitation of the Barons Forbois who being issued from a noble and ancient stocke assumed this surname whereas before time they were called Bois after that the heire of that family had manfully killed a savage and cruell Beare But at the very mouth of this river there be two townes that give greater ornament which of the said mouth that in the British tongue they call Aber borrowing one name are divided asunder by one little field lying betweene the hithermore of them which standeth neerer to Dee mouth is much ennobled by an Episcopall dignitie which King David the first translated hither from Murthlake a little village by faire houses of the Canons an Hospitall for poore people and a free Grammar schoole which William Elphinston Bishop of the place in the yeere 1480. consecrated to the training up
hands upon him For which barbarous and inhumane murdering of his cousin german he was charged in England but the Queene of her royall clemency and for the hope that she had conceived of the Earle craving with repentance forgivenesse of this fault and submitting himselfe to divers good orders for his obedience pardoned him to the great griefe of some good men But this soone after more grieved him yea pricked as it were and sore galled him that the Deputy had suppressed the name of Mac Mahon in the country next adjoyning unto him and withall to abate and weaken the power of that mighty family had divided the country among many He I say hereupon conceived a feare lest the same would befall unto him and other Chieftanes of Ulster At which very time there began some secret grudges and heart burnings to arise between the Earle and Sir Henrie Bagnall the Marshall whose sister the Earle had carried away and married The Earle complained that whatsoever he had with the losse of his blood and painfull travell reduced to the obedience of the Prince the Marshall and not he reaped the fruit and gaine thereof that the Marshall by suborning most base and vile persons as witnesses had falsely brought him into question for high treason had incited Sir William Fitz-Williams then Lord Deputy his deadly enemy by corruptions and bribery to worke his destruction and that he lay in waite to take away his life And in very truth the Deputies information against the Earle found credit in the Court of England untill the said Earle wrote his letters and offred judicially to be tried either in England or in Ireland This is for certain known that much about this time he together with the chiefery or greatest men of Ulster by secret parlees combined in an association that they would defend the Romish religion for Religion now a daies is made the mantle for all rebellion that they would in no wise admit Sheriffes or Garrison souldiers in their Territories and mutually maintain one anothers right yea and withstand all wrongs offered by the English The first Champion thrust forward to sound the alarum was Mac-Gwyr a man of a turbulent spirit he by way of preying all before him maketh a road into Conaght accompanied with Gauran a Priest who being ordeined by the Pope Primate of Ireland commanded him in the name and with the helpe of God to try his fortune and to fight the Lords battell assuring him of most happy successe yet fell it out otherwise for Mac-Gwyr through the valour of Sir Richard Bingham was discomfited and put to flight and the Primate with others slaine Soone after Mac-Gwyr brake out into open rebellion whom the Earle himselfe together with the Marshall in a shew of dutifull attendance pursued and in this service with great commendation of his forwardnesse was wounded in the thigh Howbeit wholly intentive to provide for his own security he intercepteth the sons of Shan O-Neale and makes them sure for doing any harme neither would he by any meanes being requested thereto set them at liberty but minding another matter maketh most grievous complaints of the injuries offered unto him by the Deputy the Marshall and the garrison souldiers which notwithstanding within a while after he carried so covertly that as if he had forgotten all quarels he came under safe conduct unto the Deputy submitted himselfe and after hee had professed all manner of dutifull obedience returned home with great commendation When as now Sir William Fitz Williams the Lord Deputy was revoked home out of Ireland Sir William Russell succeeded in that office Unto him repaired the Earle of his own accord exhibited an humble submission upon his knees to the Lord Deputy wherein he dolefully expressed his great griefe that the Queen had conceived indignation against him as of one undutifull and disloyall Hee acknowledged that the late absenting himselfe from the state was disagreable to his obedience albeit it was occasioned by some hard measures of the late Lord Deputie as though he and the Marshall had combined for his destruction He acknowledged that the Queene advanced him to high title and great livings that she ever upheld him and enabled him that shee who by grace had advanced him was able by her force to subvert him and therefore if he were voide of gratitude yet he could not be so voide of reason as to worke his owne ruine Furthermore he made liberall promises that he would most willingly do whatsoever should be enjoyned him which hee also had promised in his letters sent unto the Lords of the Councell in England and earnestly besought that he might be received into favour againe with the Queene as before time which he had lost not by any desert of his owne but through the forged informations and suggestions of his adversaries At the same time Bagnall the Marshall was present in the place who exhibited articles against the Earle and accused him that hee had underhand suborned and sent Mac-Guir with the Primate above named into Conaght that hee had complotted secretly with Mac-Guir O-Donel and other conspirators and had aided them by Cormac-Mac-Baron the Earles brother and Con the Earles base son and some of his servants in the wasting of Monaghan and besieging of Inis-Kellin and by means drawn away the Captaines of Kilulio and Kilwarny from their loialty and obedience to the Queen Hereupon it was seriously debated among the Councellors of the kingdome whether the Earle should be staied to make his answer or no The Deputy thought good that he should be detained But when it was put to question generally the more part either upon a vaine feare or forward inclination to favour the Earle were instant to have him dismissed the matter to be put off unto a further day of hearing pretending certaine waighty considerations and that the Articles exhibited were without proofe or time Thus the Deputie in a sort was forced to yeeld to the experience of the Councell and the Earle was permitted to depart and his accusers there present had no audience Which troubled and disquieted the Queen not a little considering that his wicked designements and acts were now apparent to every one and the Queene her selfe had given warning afore hand that he should be detained untill he had cleered himselfe of those imputations The Earle being now returned home when he heard that a new supply of souldiers was comming out of England and thirteene hundred besides of old servitors out of the Low-countries who had served in little Britaine under Sir John Norris and that the English entended now to possesse themselves of Balashanon and Belik Castles upon the mouth of Logh-Earn he being privie to himself of his own evill purposes and carrying a guilty conscience on a sudden assaileth the fort at Blackwater by which the entry lay into Tir-Oen his owne country and had it surrendred up unto him And at the very same instant in maner hee wavering in his minde with one
f Torksey 538 a Torneaments 407 d Tosto vanquished 145 Totnes 201 e Totnesse shore 202 Touchets a family 584 b. Barons de Audeley ibid. Tovie the Kings Standard bearer 439 d Tovie the river 649 d Toure d' Ordre 345 c Tower of London 423 e Towridge river 207 f Tourington 208 b Towton battell 696 d Trabucks 400 Tracies 36● d Traiford a place and family 747 Traith Maur 666 a Traith Bichan ibid. Traith Taff 642 c Trebellius Max. Propretor in Britaine 52 Treboeth 605 f Trederman 783 b Tr●es under ground 745 d. 607 Tregaron 657 d Tregonie 190 Tregian ibid. Tregoz Barons 617 d Trelawnies 192 Trematon 193 Trenewith 661 e Trent a riveret 213 Trent a river 547 Treutham a Monastery 583 Treshams a family 509 c Trevilions 196 b Triadum a British booke 33 Tribet 29 Tribunals or Courts of Iustice in England 177 Tribunitian auctority 101 Trihine what it was 159 Trimarcia 18 Tripetia 20 Trophee in Cornwall 188 Trubridge 244 e True-place 802 a Trusbut 540 e Tuddington 401 f Tufa a Banner 195 Tuisco the Saxons stock-father 135 Tuisday ibid. Tunbridge why so called 330 a Tunstall a worthy Prelate 744 d Turbervelis or de Turbida villa 213 e Turbevils a family 643 e Turkil a Coward 464 e Turkils of Arden 565 d Turkil the Dane 500 b Tirold Abbot of Peterborough 513 a Turton Chappell and tower 745 Turpins Knights 517 Turets a family 594 e Turvy 399 b Tuscets or Touchets Barons Audeley 609 a Tutbury Castle 587 f Twede the river 814 e Twifford 813 c Twinamburue 259 c Tyrants in Britain 23 Tzetzes a fabulous Greeke writer 32 V VAle a river 189 Vale 393 b Vale of Ailesbury 395 c Vale Roiall 608 d Vallachians why so called 11 Valle Crucis 677 a Valect what hee is 663. a worshipfull title 713 c Valoinois a family 465 f Valtorts 193 Valvasores 168 Vandals and Burgundians in Britaine 114 Vandals brought into Britaine by Probus 71 Vandelberia 489 d Vargae 19 Varia what it signifieth 679 c Vaulx Barons 786 b. 510 Ubbanford 816 b Uchel 21.190 Vectius Bolanus 53 Venables Barons of Kindreton 609 b Vandraeth Vehan a river 649 Venedocia 659 f Venutius a Potentate of Britain 48 Venutius warreth upon his wife Cartismandua 53 Verannius Propretor in Britaine 49 Verbeia the river Wherfe and a Goddesse 697 Veres Earles of Oxford 389 d Vere the good Earle 390 b Vere Earle of Oxford became a Monke 450 d Vere 202 f Vere Earle of Oxford and Marquesse of Dublin Verdons a family 517 f. 620 b Veriad 19 Vernaies Knights 565 a Vernons a family 567 a Verulam or Verlam Citie in old time 408 f Vesey Barons 722 c. neere to Saint Albons Verulam Tribute 409 c Vespasian his acts in Britaine 41 42 Uffa 458 a Ufkins ibid. Ufford a towne 465 c Valentinian an Arrian 83 Valentine a rebell in Britaine suppressed 80 Ufford Earle of Suffolke 465 c Uffords 813 b Vicarius or Vicegerent in Britan 76 Vicounts what title of Honour 167 Vicount of Honour who was first in England 521 e Victor the sonne of Maximus slaine 83 Victorina 271 b Victorinus a commendable governour under Honorius in Britaine 85 Victorie what names it hath in divers languages 457 e Vecturiones who so called 117 Vellocatus Costrell to Venutius marieth his wife 53 Victrix a Legion 604 c Vies 244 a Villa forinseca what it is 391 e Villiers a family 523 a Vineyards in Britaine 71 The Vine 269 d Vines in England ibid. e Vinyards in Glocestershire 357 f Vincents Rocke 239 a Virius Lupus Propretor 69 Virgins eleven thousand Martyrs 197 a. 286 c Visigothi 294 c Visi Saxones ibid. Viscounts a family Vitsan 347 d Vitrum 19 Viterinus 691 d Ulpius Marcellus a brave warriour 66. his vigilancy and temperance ibid. Ulphus his horne 704 e Ulse a lake 776 c Ulstley 773 a Ulysses whether ever in Britaine 32 Ulyssippo that is Lisbon whence it tooke name 32 Ulverston 755 c Umfranvils a family 806 b. 535 University Colledge in Oxford 381 c University a publicke schoole 381 b Unstrote a river 138 Voisy Bishop of Excester 567 Vortigern the last Monarch of British blood and the bane of his country 624 b. burnt with Lightning ibid. Vortigerne alias Gourtigern sendeth for Saxons 128 Vortimer a valiant Britaine where buried 538 e Uppingham 525 e Upton 577 Vortiporius a Tyrant of the Dimetae 113 Ursula an holy Virgin 197 Ursus de Abtot 570. Sheriffe of Worcestershire 578 e Usa or Isa that is Ouse a river 296 Usipians their venturous and memorable fact 57 Uske a river 628 a Uske a towne 636 c Utcester 587 e Uther Pendragon 195. why so called 410 Uxbridge 419 ● W WAda a Saxon Duke 719 b Wadensbourg 241 d Wadham 382 a Wahul Woodhil or Odill 399 c Barons de Wahul ibid. Wakes Barons Wake and Estotevill 202 d. 407 533 a Wakes of Blisworth 533 b Wakefield 693 d Wakeman of Rippon 700 d Wainfleete in Lincolne-shire 542 b Wales 615 c d. 22. annexed and united to the Crowne of England 114 Walch 22 Walcher Bishop of Durham slain in a Commotion 743 d Wall by Lichfield 582 e Wall of Turfe betweene Edenburgh Frith and Cluid 86 Walls end 811 b Wall of stone built in Britaine 86 Wallbery 453 d Walbrooke in London 423 a Walbeofs a family 628 e Walden 452 b Walde of Earle of Northampton and of Huntingdon 502 c 515 c. his disloyall treachery ibid. Walleran Earle of Mellent and first Earle of Worcester 579 a Wallers 330 e Wallerond 618 a Walfleot Oisters 444 d Walli Wallon 22.113 Wallingford 281 d Wallop or Welhope a place 262 Wallops a family ibid. b Wallot Isle 443 c Walmesford bridge 511 d Walnut-tree at Glastenburie 227 Walney an Island 755 c Walpole 481 b Walshal 581 f Walsh a family 364 Walsh what it signifieth 113 Walsingham 470 c Walsingham a towne 479 c Walsingham Knights ibid. Walter de Hemingford 721 Walter 752 f Walter Espec 709 d Waltham Crosse 437 d Waltham Forest 439 c Waltham Abbey or Waltham Crosse a towne 439 c Walton in Darbyshire 556 b Walton a place and familie 572 Walwick 802 a Walwort a herbe called Danes-blood 452 b Wandlesworth 303 a Wandle a river 287 f Wansdike 241 d Wantage 281 a Wantsum or Wentfar a riveret 473 c. see stour in kent Ware a towne 407 c Wapentakes what they bee 159 Ware a Priest and Baron of the Parliament 746 a Wests Barons de la Ware 312 Warburgton a place and familie 610 b Wards 179 Wardens of the Marches 799 b Warden of the Cinque ports 325 b Wardon 401 c Wardon Hundred in Northamptonshire 507 b Wardour a Castle 246 a Ward-staff 440 c Warham towne 213 c Warkworth 813 a Warington 748 b Warnford 269 a Warre civill betweene Yorke and Lancaster determined in the death of Edward the young Earle of Warwicke 570 Warwast 201 c Warwick-shire 561 Warwick towne 562 f Warwick Earles 569 f Warwicke in Cumberland 778 a Wash a
The Saxons conquest Gildas The Saxons Manners Lib. 9 cap. 2. Originum The Saxons shores or coasts Comites littoris Saxonici * Sperabat for timebat * Baieux Saxones Baiocassini Lib. 8. Epist. ad Namantium * Ciuli * By hanging them indifferently one with another Lib. 2. Epist. 4● An horse the badge or cognisance of the Saxons These cerimonies Adam Bremensis ascribeth to the Saxons which Tacitus attributeth to the Suevians The Saxons Gods Wednesday Friday Tuesday * De temporibus Eoster a goddesse Herthus a goddesse Earth Thursday hath name from this Thor. * Ingenti Priapo A Monarchie alwaies in the Englishmens Heptarchie Lib. 2. cap. 5. ●96 * Augustine the Englishmens Apostle Englishmen converted to the faith Lib. 2. cap. 1. * Englishmen * Hol-Deir●●esse * Christ. The River Swale in York-shire Beda reporteth all this of Paulinus Archbishop of York and not of Augustine The Religion of the Englishmen The learning of Englishmen Britaine twice Schoole-mistris of France The flitting backe againe of Anglo-Saxons into Germanie England About the yeare 800. Theod. that is a Nation Epist. to Zacharie the Pope Porphyrius de Theolog. Ph● Ael ●al c. Vlf. Ard Athel and Ethel Bert. Bald. Ken and Kin. Cuth Ead. Fred. Gisle Hold. Helm Hare and Here. Hild. Wiga Leod. Leof Mund. Rad Red and Rod. Ric. Sig. Stan. Wi. Willi. Wold The name of Britaine brought into use againe Da-hen Winccinga * D●● The Religion of the Danes Hereupon peradventure we have our Thursday so called * Burnt offering Lib. 1. * Theophania The waste and spoile that the Danes made Dangelt * Or demame * Otherwise called Alured 1012. Cut in his coines The Danes afflicted England 200. yeares and reigne about 20. * Hardy-Knout Edward the Confessor * Of Canterbury Nordmanni Nord-l●udi Hel●●ldus The booke of Sangall concerning the Acts of Charles the Great * Calvus * Crassus * Normandy Neustria * Rou. * The Foole. Bigod * Baptisme * Longa spata Dukes of Normandie * Domu● regia Major * Or Tostre Normans 10●6 The Charter of William Conquerour The Historie of Saint Stephens Abbey at Cane in Normandie The Normans conquest * Hungarie A Comet Malcolm * Mil. Calumbus Filius Osberni * Andium * Pictonum * Cenomannorum * Bononiae * When daies and nights be of a length about the eleventh day of September * Durus Stanford bridge neere Yorke * 14. Octob. * Or heavie Axes Botesca●les The seale of William Conqueror * Normandy Domesday-booke * A Jurie of twelve * As touching the fact The warlike prowesse of the Normans Th. Fazel in the sixth book of the latter Decad. Chalcondilas In Pembroke shire Of consolation to Albina Nicephorus How countries are divided * Cap. 6. Britan Great and Small Britaine the Higher and the Lower Tripartite Britaine Dist. 80. cap. 1. * Chester Britaine in five parts Lib. 28. The Saxons Heptarchie or seven Kingdomes England divided into Shires or Counties * An Hide as some thinke is so much land as one plough can eare in one yeare as others thinke 4. yard-lands Aelfred he is named in pieces of Coine also Alured in our English Chronicles Hundreds Wapentaks Tithings and Lathes Leth. Shires The division of England according to the Lawes The manuscript booke of S. Edmund * D●omesday booke Wales divided into Shires * or London 897. Math. Westmonast He flourished in the yeare 1070. * Mercia Sheriffe of the Shire Twelve men Justices of peace Justices of Assises England divided into Parishes Bishops Monasteries or Abbaies An hundred Priories of Monks Aliens King Henrie the Fift had dissolved before The King Bracton lib. 1. cap. 8. Seneca The Prince * Nobilis Caesar. * Caesar Nobilissimus * Dux Cornubiae natus * Lords A Duke * Dukes * Earles Sigonius Regni Italici lib. 5. Afterward a golden rod or verger was used Marquestes * An. 4. Henri● 4. In paratitlis ad Codicem P. Pithaeus in Memorab Campaniae * An authenticall record of the Exchequer * or Maundevil Cincture of the sword * Penbrochiae in another place Count Palatine Pithaus Vicounts Barons In Parergis See Goldastus pag. 14. Lords About the yeere 580. N●riots or Relevies Haply Mancusae that is 30. deniers Many Thanes in England in the Conquerours time Court-Barons Math. Paris pag. 1262. Baronage of England Bishops Barons Abbats Barons of the Parliament Matth. Paris Vavasors Signius Nobles of an inferiour ranke Knights Wherefore Knights be called in Latin Milites Solidarij Banerets * Fars 2. Pat. 15.8.3 m. 22. and 23. * Hominum ad vexillum * Hominum ad arma Knights of the Bathe Knights De moribus Germanorum Lib. 1. cap. 22. Epist. 94. * Beene dubbed Knight * Others say 100. * Complements * Ennoblishment * Nobilitationis * King or Queene * Priests In dorso Pat. 51. H. 3. Esquires * Esses Gentlemen Citizens Yeomen Parliament The Kings Court. Kings Bench. Common Pleas. Exchequer Iustices Itinerant Star-Chambe Court of 〈◊〉 Admirals Court Chancerie * Socratum that is the place of Judgement Epist. 6. lib. 11. Robert Fitz. Stephen who lived under Henry the Second Court of Requests Ecclesiasticall Courts See the Antiquitie of the British Church Court of the Arches Court of Audience Court of Faculties Vnder what Signe in heaven Britaine lieth The order or Method of the worke ensuing * Welch * Welchmen Ostidamnej Cossini Corn and Kern * Per●copsca or Procopia * Bretaigne or Little Britaine Strabo Orewood Tinne Lib. 6. cap. 8. 9. * ●o The Common wealth of Tinners L. Warden of the Stannary Cornish Diamonds Pilchards * Which peradventure be Gerres in Plinie Hurling Havillan in Architrenio Westerne people most strong and hardie * Tamer Those of the Tercieres ● Bellerium or Antivestaeum Steort what i● signifieth * Castellidi Lipant●n * Mardi Mecha or the Red-sea * Mardi Mecha or the Red-sea S. Burien * Silly or Sorlings A Trophee Barons of Ticis * Marine Amber that is Ambrose stone S. Michaels mount Michelstow Laurence Noel Weapons of Brasse * Pyrrhecorax Cornish chough * A narrow passage betweene two creeks or armes of the Sea Mounts-bay Goldphin Hill The familie of the Godolphins Loo poole Menna Meneg Oc●●num The Liskard Voluba Falemouth * Brindi● * Leland Pendinas Cenionis ostium Perin Glasnith Arwenak Carminow Rossi● Lansladron In the time of Edward the First Foy The Mohuns Vzella Britans have not the letter ● Vxellodunum in France How the havens in Cornwall come to be stopped up Leskerd Bodman The booke of Winchester Abbey S. Neots Doomesday * Doniert Prayer for the soule c. Wring-cheese Hurlers The river Loo S. Germans Trematon * De vallet Edge-Com● Anthony S. Iies * In Aquil●●n●m or North. S. Columbs Lhanheton Lib. 3. Phil●peinos of W●●liam Brit●● who lived anno 117 * Swallow Castle Denis Padstow Tindagel The place of Arthurs Nativitie Architrenius Banners Tufa a Banner
See in Lincolnshire Inquisit 2. E 3. Watling street Etocetum Wall Penck-ridge The River Trent New Castle under Lyme Trentham Stone Erdeswick Names altered according to divers habitations Cankwood LL. Audley * Hastange Noel Harcourt Stafford Cap grave Marianus * Ticks hall Chartley. L. Ferrars of Chartley. Beaudesert L L. Paget Lichfield About the yeere 779. History of Rochester * Cedda Wil. Malmesbur A. Alabaster Burton upon Trent Who also it named Mowen 1904. * Tir Conell The River Blith Needwood Forest. Mooreland The River Dove Hans Churnet De-la-cres Aulton Teyn Checkley Utcester Tutesbury In his booke entituled the praises of Divine wisdome Gervase of Tilbury Earles and Barons of Stafford See Dukes of Buckingham The Marcher● L. Marchers Marchiones i● old Histories The Canopy 27. Hen. 8. Clun River Bishops 〈◊〉 * Coluno ca strum Clun Castl● Caer Caradoc King Caratacus Tacitus See the 43. and 44. page * With the strong arme Ludlow Iron hookes 1139. Jenevile The Councell in the Marches Burford Cornwaile Inquis 40. Ed. 3 Baron and Barony Conjugata Cleehill Blunt in the Norman language signifieth yellow haire of the head Bridg-North * De Saneta Clara. Lib. Inquis Willey or Willeley Lib. Inquis Wenlock William Malmesbury Or Wivell * Lord Wenlocke Claus. 17. Edw. 4. Acton Burnel Langley Condover Pichford A fountaine of Pitch or Birumen Pouderbach Stipperstons * Or Welshmen Caurse Routon Rutunium Brocards Castle Uriconium Wroxcester Strattons Wreken-hill Bildas Dalaley Usocona Oken-yate Charleton Tong. Draiton 1459. Inq. 2.10 E. 2. Wem Red-castle Morton Corbet Corbet a forename * Shrewsbury Prebend● passing hereditarily * Battaile of Shrewsbury 1463. Battailefield The British sweat or sweating sicknesse Hieronymus Fracastorius Flotes Shrawerden Knocking Nesse Barons Le Strange 20. Ed. 4. Oswestre Welsh Cortons 642. Oswald slaine See in Norhthumberland Ecclipses in Aries Whittington The life of Fulke written in French Barons Fitzwarin Latimer what it signifieth White-Church Album Monasterium Ellesmer 1205. Baron of Ellesmer Earles of Shrewsbury H. Huntingdot in his booke of the miseries of life See in Ireland County Palatine Petr. Pitbaus in the description of Campaine Joh. Tilius The most commendable Cheeses * Wirrall Lucian the Monke of the praise of Chester Deva * The River Dee Divona Bonium Banchor Monkery Rutilius Claudius That Banchor of which Saint Bernard speaketh in the life of Malachie was in Ireland Bonium or Banchor is of Flintshire Out of the Rol of Domesday of Chel-shire Barons of Mal-pas * Per breve recognitionis Itinerar lib. 2. cap. 13. Shoclach Gros-venour Deunana Deva Chester Chester a Colony of the Romans * The Rowes Marianus Scotus About the yeere 960. Churches repaired Rodulphus Glaber Wirall Law what it is 1173. Il-bre Finborrow Ridly Beeston Woodhay Bulkley 1134. Trees under g●ound Saltpits Nantwich Calveley Vale Royall Northwich Lib. 2. de Fascino Angels Devils Middlewich Bostock Pever Dutton Chronicle of Walles Towchet Rock-Savage Maclesfield Thelwall Runkhorne Elfled or Ethelfled In the yeere of Christ 78. Anno. 51. Earles of Chester Barons to the Earles of Chester * Haubergella * Lands and possessions The Kingdome of the Mercians Wales Silures Dimetae Ordovices Tacitus Silures mistaken for Siluros The River Munow Blestium Old towne Alterynnis The seat of the Cecils Harald Ewias The Family of Ewias Their coat of Armes Tregoz and Grandison Pag. 286. Snod hill Marble Gilden Vale. Irchenfeld Kilpect The river Wy Clifford Castle The Clifford Inquis 26. E. 1. The Profound Doctour Hereford Kenchester 793. S. Ethelbert Martyr Brampton Brian Wigmore Barons Mortimer Richards Castle Lords of Richards Castle Bone well Lemster Lemster Ore the best wooll Lemster bread and Webley Ale Webley Barons Verdons Basservile See Gemition lib. ult Fin. Hilarii 20. Ed. 3. Marden Sutton Marcley hill A Mountaine mooving Scudamore or Escudamor Wilton Barons Grey de Wilton Goderich Castle * Earles of Hereford Constables of England 1156. 2. Par. Chart an 1. Reg. Joan. Matth. Paris Joan. The booke of Walden The booke of Lanthony M●●nastery Henry the Fourth King of England Castle Colwe or Mauds Castle in Colwe●● Matth. Paris Radnor Owen Glendour Magesetae Prestaine Knighton Offa dike Vortigern Lewellin Guarthenion Guarish in British slander and Eniawn just Earles of March The booke of Lanthony Abbay See Earles of Ulster See in Yorke-shire toward the end Bulleum Hay Brecknock Linsavethen Mere. Brecknock Mere. Loventium Bricenaw Mere. Brecknock Blean Leveney Lords of Brechnock Called also Braus and Breus Red Booke in the Exchequer Ewias Lacy. Lanthony Barons Lacy. Saint John Baptist. Hodney Grossemont Skinffrith Historia Minor Matth. Paris Monmouth Geffrey Ap-Arthur or of Monmouth Chepstow Earles of Strigh●ll or Pembrock Venta Caer-went The Booke of Landaffe Church Strighull Castle Portskeweth * Sudbroke Coine of Severus Medailes Inq. 3. E. I. Woundy The Family of Saint Maur or Seimor The Moore An Inundation in January 1607. Gold-cliffe River Uske Abergevenny Lords of Abergevenny Clausae 49. Edw. 3. * Baronesse Le Despenser 6. Ed. 2. Burrium Uske Isca Legionis C●er Lheon ar Uske These Inscriptions are to be seene at Mathern in the Bishop of Landaffes house Veteranu● Cohortis In printed Copies Claudius Pompeianum and L●llianus Avitus Coss. Anno Christi 210. * Centurio Thomas James Newport Dun-settan Whence came the name of Glamorgan The subduing of Glamorgan-shire Robert Fitz-Haimon 12. Knights Caerdiffe Caer Philli. The mouth of Ratostabius Traith Taff. Landaff History of Landaff Caerdiffe Robert Curthose Duke of Normandy Sully haply so called of the Silures Barry A wonderfull Cave or hole Cowbridge Bovium Neath Saint Donats Stradling Antique peeces of coine Ogmor river A fountaine ebbing and flowing Sandfords well A fountaine at Cales or Cadiz Eternall habitations Nidus flu i. the river Neath Nidum the towne Neath Logho● Gower Th. Walsingh Booke of Neth Monastery Joh. R. 5. Swinsey Leucarum Loghor Lords of Glamorgan-shire West-Wales Caer Marden-shire Kidwelly Guenliana a woman of manly courage Lords of Og●mor and Kidwelly River Tovie Dinevor Maredunum Caer merdin Merlin * Divinour or Prophet Cantred Bitham Cantred Caves under the ground Cantredmaur Talcharn Lhan-Stephan Taff River * Haelius Whiteland Peeces of Roman Coine New Castle Loventium * Legalis Comitatus Tenby Manober Castle Milford Haven Pembroke The beginning of the Giralds family in Ireland The Roll of Services Carew Castle Gledawgh Flemings in Wales Little England beyond Wales Harford we● Filium Tan credi Octopitarum Saint David Laud. Saint Patr●● Saint David Bodies of trees in the Sea Falcons Keimes Barony Fisgard New-port Saint Dogmael the Welsh call him Saint Tegwel Lords of Keimes Martins Kilgarran Salmons leap Earles of Penbroke See Pag. 407. Some write that John Duke of Bedford was first for a short time Earle of Penbroke Cardigan-shire King Caratacus Zonaras Tuerobius 〈◊〉 river Rosse Strat-fleur Kilgarran The Salmons leap Castore● Bevers Cardigan Fitz-Stephen The River S●●ccia Y-stwith The river Ridol Lords of Cardigan-shire Ordovices Veneti Guineth * Vannes Genounia
goeth on forward to Shropp-shire That MEDIOLANUM a Towne of the Ordovices which both Antonine the Emperour and Ptolomee speake of stood in this Shire I am in a manner perswaded upon probability The footings whereof I have sought after with all diligence but little or nothing have I found of it For time consumeth the very carcasses even of Cities Yet if we may ground any conjecture upon the situation seeing the Townes which Antonine placeth on either side be so well knowne to wit BONIUM now Bangor by Dee on the one side and RUTUNIUM now Rowton Castle on the other side for he setteth it twelve Italian miles distant from this and from the other twenty The lines of Position if I may so tearme them or of the distance rather doe cut one another crosse betweene Matrafall and Lan-vethlin which are scarce three miles asunder and shew as it were demonstratively the site of our Mediolanum For this cannot chuse but bee an infallible way to finde out the situation of a third place by two others that are knowne when as there are neither hils interposed nor any troublous turnings of the wayes As for this Matrafall which standeth five miles Westward from Severn although it bee now but a bare name was sometime the regall seat of the Princes of Powis which may bee an argument of the antiquity thereof and the same much spoken of by Writers who record that after the Princes had once forsaken it Robert Vipont an Englishman built a Castle But Lan-vethlin that is Vethlius Church being a little Mercate Towne although it be somewhat farther off from the crosse-meeting of the said lines yet commeth it farre neerer in resemblance of name to Mediolanum For of Methlin by the propriety of the British tongue is made Vethlin like as of Caer-Merden is come Caer Verden and of Ar-mon Arvon Neither doth Methlin more jarre and disagree in sound from Mediolanum than either Millano in Italie Le Million in Xantoigne or Methlen in the Lowcountries which Cities no man doubteth were all in times past knowne by the name of Mediolanum Which of these conjectures commeth neerer to the truth judge you for me it is enough to give my guesse If I should say that either Duke Medus or Prince Olanus built this Mediolanum of ours and those Cities of the same name in Gaule or that whiles they were a building Sus mediatim Lanata that is That a Sow halfe fleeced with wooll was digged up might I not be thought thinke you to catch at Clouds and fish for Nifles Yet notwithstanding the Italians write as much of their Mediolanum But seeing that most true it is that these Cities were built by nations of the same language and that the Gaules and Britans spake all one language I have prooved already it is probable enough that for one and the same cause they had also one and the same denomination Howbeit this our Mediolanum in nothing so farre as I know agreeth with that of Italie unlesse it be that both of them are seated upon a plaine betweene two riverets and a learned Italian derived the name of their Mediolanum hence because it is a Citie standing in the middest betweene Lanas that is little rivers according to his owne interpretation But this may seeme overmuch of MEDIOLANUM which I have sought heere and about Alcester not farre off This Countie hath adorned no Earle with the name title and Honour thereof untill of late our Soveraigne King James created Philip Herbert second Sonne of Henry Earle of Penbroke by Mary Sidney for the singular love and affectionate favour toward him and for the great hope that he conceived of his vertues both Baron Herbert of Shurland and also Earle of Montgomery upon one and the same day at Greenwich in the yeere 1605. But the Princes of Powis descended from the third Sonne of Rotherike the great held this shire with others in a perpetuall line of succession although Roger and Hugh of Montgomery had encroched upon some part thereof untill the daies of King Edward the Second For then Oen ap Gruffin ap Guenwinwyn the last Lord of Powis of the British bloud for the name of Prince had long before been worne out of use left one onely daughter named Hawise whom Sir Iohn Charleton an English man the Kings Valect married and in right of his wife was by King Edward the Second made Lord of Powise who as I have seene in very many places gaue for his Armes a Lion Geules Rampant in a shield Or which he received from his wifes Progenitours Of his posterity there were foure males that bare this Honorable title untill that in Edward the succession of males had an end for he the said Edward begat of Aeleonor the daughter and one of the heires of Thomas Holland Earle of Kent Iane Wife to Sir Iohn Grey Knight and Joice married unto Iohn Lord Tiptoft from whom the Barons of Dudley and others derive their descent The said Sir Iohn Grey for his martiall prowesse and by the bountifull fauour of King Henry the Fifth received the Earledome of Tanquervill in Normandie to have unto him and his heires males by delivering one Bassinet at the Castle of Roan every yeere on Saint Georges day This John had a sonne named Henrie Lord of Powis in whose race the title of Powis with the Honour thereof continued untill Edward Grey died well neere in our time leaving no issue lawfully begotten This Shire hath Parishes 47. MERIONITH Comitatus olim pars ORDOVICVM MERIONETH-SHIRE FFrom the backeside of Montgomery-shire MERIONETH-SHIRE in British Sire-Verioneth in Latine Mervinia and as Giraldus calleth it Terra filiorum Canaeni that is Canaens sonnes Land reacheth to that crooked Bay I spake of and to the maine Sea which on the West side beateth so sore upon it that it is verily thought to have carryed away by violence some part thereof Southward for certaine miles together it is severed from Cardigan-shire by the river Dovy on the North it boundeth upon Caer-narvon and Denbigh-shires As for the in-land part it so riseth with mountaines standing one by another in plumps that as Giraldus saith it is the roughest and most unpleasant Country to see to in all Wales For it hath in it mountaines of a wonderfull height yet narrow and passing sharpe at the top in manner of a needle and those verily not scattering heere and there one but standing very thicke together and so even in height that Shepheards talking together or railing one at another on the tops of them if haply they appoint the field to encounter and meet together they can hardly doe it from morning till night But let the Reader heerein relie upon Giraldus credit Great flockes of Sheepe graze all over these mountaines neither are they in danger of Wolves who were thought then to have beene ridde quite out of all England and Wales when King Eadgar imposed upon Ludwall Prince of these
Countries to present three hundred Wolves yeerely unto him by way of Tribute For when as William of Malmesbury writeth he had for three yeeres performed this at the fourth yeere he gave over upon his protestation that hee could finde no more Yet long time after this there remained some still as appeareth for certaine by irreproveable testimonies of Record The inhabitants who for the most part wholly betake themselves to breeding and feeding of cattaile and live upon white mea●es as butter cheese c. how ever Strabo mocked our Britans in times past as unskilfull in making of cheese are for stature cleere complexion goodly feature and lineaments of body inferiour to no Nation in Britain but they have an ill name among their neighbours for being too forward in the wanton love of women and that proceeding from their idlenesse They have but few townes Eastward where Dovy runneth standeth Mouthwy a Commot very well knowne which fell for a childes part of inheritance to William alias Wilcock of Mouthwy a younger sonne of Gruffeth Ap Gwenwynwin Lord of Powis and by his sons daughter it came unto Sir Hugh Burgh and by his sonnes daughters likewise unto the Families of Newport Leighton Lingein and Mitton of especiall respect in these parts Where the ●iver Avon runneth downe more Westward there is Dolegethle a little mercat towne so called of the Vale wherein it is built Hard by the sea in the little territory named Ardudwy the Castle Arlech in times past named Caer Colun standeth advanced upon a very steepe rocke and looketh downe into the sea from aloft which being built as the Inhabitants report by King Edward the First tooke name of the situation For Arlech in the British tongue signifieth as much as upon a Stony rocke Whiles England was disjointed and lay torne with civill broiles David Ap Ienkin Ap Enion a noble Gentleman of Wales who tooke part with the house of Lancaster defended it stoutly against King Edward the Fourth untill that Sir William Herbert Earle of Pembrock making his way with much adoe through the midst of these mountaines of Wales no lesse passable than the Alpes assaulted this Castle in such furious thundering manner that it was yeelded up into his hands Incredible it is almost what a cumbersome journey hee had of it and with what difficulty hee gat through whiles he was constrained in some places to climbe up the hilles creeping in others to come downe tumbling both he and his company together Whereupon the dwellers thereabout call that way at this day Le Herbert A little higher in the very confines of the Shires two notable armes of the Sea enbosome themselves within the Land Traith Maur and Traith Bachan that is The greater Wash and the lesse And not farre from hence neere unto a little Village called Fastineog there is a street or Port-way paved with stone that passeth through these cumber●ome and in manner unpassable Mountaines Which considering that the Britans name it Sarn Helen that is Helens Street it is not to be thought but that Helena mother to Constantine the Great who did many such like famous workes throughout the Romane Empire laied the same with stone Neither standeth farre from it Caer-Gai that is The Castle of Caius built by one Caius a Roman touching whom the common people dwelling thereby report great wonders In the East side of the Shire the River Dee springeth out of two Fountaines whence some thinke it tooke the name for they call it Dwy which word importeth also among them the number of two although others would needs have it so tearmed of some Divinity other of the blacke colour and forthwith passeth entire and whole through Lhintegid in English Pimble-Meare and Plenlin-Meare a Lake spreading farre in length and breadth and so runneth out of it with as great a streame as it entred in For neither shall a man see in Dee the fishes called Guiniad which are peculiar to the Meare nor yet Salmons in the Meare which neverthelesse are commonly taken in the River But see if you please the description of this Lake or Meare in verse by the Antiquarian Poet. Hispida quà tellus Mervinia respicit Eurum Est locus antiquo Penlinum nomine dictus Hîc lacus illimeis in valle Tegeius alta Latè expandit aquas vastum conficit orbem Excipiens gremio latices qui fonte perenni Vicinis recidunt de montibus atque sonoris Illecebris captas demulcent suaviter aures Illud habet certè lacus admirabile dictu Quantumvis magna pluvia non astuat atqui Aëre turbato si ventus murmura tollat Excrescit subito rapidis violentior undis Et tumido superat contempias flumine ripas On th' East side of Merioneth a Country rough that is A place there lies by ancient name cleped Penlin ywis Whereas within a Valley deepe there spreadeth farre a Lake With waters cleere without all mud which compasse huge doth take Receiving sundry pirles to it and many a running rill That spring and fall continually from every neighbour hill And with shrill noise and pleasant sounds allured eares doe fill And verily a wonder't is of this Lake strange to tell Although the raine powre downe amaine the waters never swell But if the aire much troubled be and windes aloft doe blow It swelles at once no streame so much and bankes doth overflow On the browe or edge heereof standeth Bala a little Towne endowed with many immunities but peopled with few inhabitants and as rudely and unhandsomely built neverthelesse it is the chiefe Mercate Towne for these Mountainers Hugh Earle of Chester was the first of the Normans that tooke this Country and held it with planting Garisons what time as he kept Gruffin Ap Conan that is the sonne of Conan prisoner But Gruffin afterwards recovered it with the rest of his Principality and left it unto his heires untill it came unto the fatall Periode and so ended in Lhewellin It reckoneth Churches 37. CAERNARVŌ Comitatus pars olim ORDOVICVM CAERNARVON-SHIRE ABove Merionith-shire lieth that Country which the Britans call Sire Caer-ar-von and English men CAER-NARVON-SHIRE of the principall Towne therein and before that Wales was laied out into Shires they tearmed it by the name of Snowden-Forest and the Latine Historians Snaudonia of that Forest and Ar-vonia out of the British name because it hath Mona that is Anglesey just over against it The North side and the West butteth upon the Irish Sea the South-side is enclosed with Merioneth-shire and the East with Denbigh-shire from which it is severed by the River Conwy On that part which looketh toward the Sea especially where it shooteth forth a great way South-west with a Promontorie and stretcheth out the shores with crooked turning full against OCTOPITARUM or Saint Davids Land it is of a very fruitfull soile and garnished all a long with prety Townes As for the more in-land