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A12718 England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland described and abridged with ye historic relation of things worthy memory from a farr larger voulume done by Iohn Speed.; Theatre of the Empire of Great Britaine. Abridgements Speed, John, 1552?-1629.; Keere, Pieter van den, ca. 1571-ca. 1624, engraver.; Camden, William, 1551-1623. Britannia. 1627 (1627) STC 23035; ESTC S103213 178,357 376

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Imaus in Schithia For all the yeare long these lye mantelled ouer with Snow hard crusted together though otherwise for their height they are open and liable both to the Sunne to dissolue them and the windes to ouer-sweepe them 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordouices of whom we haue sufficiently spoken in the description of the former Prouinces neither need I insist either vpon the pleasures or profits that this Country yeeldeth by reason of the great affinity it hath both of Climate and Commodities with Denbigh-shire and Flint-shire before mentioned But this beyond the other in some places breeds certaine Shel-fishes which being conceiued by an heauenly dew bring forth Pearles in ancient times 〈…〉 of then now they are 6 Touching places of note that Citie is very ancient which the Emperour Antonine calleth Segontium taking name of a Riuer running by which at this day is called Seront some reliques of the walls whereof doe yet appeare neere vnto a little Church consecrated to the honour of Saint Publicius This Citie Ninius calleth Caer Custenith which some interpret the Citie of Constantine Indeed Mathew Westminster saith how true I know not that Anno 1283. here was found the body of Constantius Father to great Constantine which King Edward the first caused to be sumptuously bestowed in the Church of the new Citie which he raised out of the ruines of the old and is now called Ca●●naruon which giueth name to this whole Shire The Towne it selfe yeeldeth a most excellent prospect towards the Sea and is incompassed in a manner round with the wals of the Castle so as we may say it is a Citie within a Castle which taketh vp the whole West-side of it and great pitie it is that so famous a worke should not be perpetuous or euer become the ruine of time which is much feared for the mercilesse vnderminings of the Sea that with her daily and forcible irruptions neuer ceaseth to wash away the foundations of the Key The people of this Towne are well approued for courte●ie and also Ciuill gouernment which is administred by the Constable of the Castle who is euer Maior by Patent hauing the assistance of one Alderman two Bailiffes two Sergeants at Mace and one Towne-Clerke The Townesmen doe not a little glory that King Edward the second was borne there in a Tower of the Castle called Eagle-Tower and surnamed of Caer-nar-uon he being the first Prince of Wales of the English line The site of this Towne according to Mathematicall obseruation is in the degree of Longitude 15. and 50. scruples from the first West-point and the Pole eleuated in Latitude 53. and 50. Bangor the Bishops See though it be now but a small Towne yet it was in time past so large that for the greatnesse thereof it was called Banchor Vaur that is Great Banchor which Hugh Earle of Chester fortified with a Castle But it hath beene long since vtterly ruinated and laid leuell with the ground in so much as there is not any footing to be found or other monuments left thereof although they haue beene sought with all diligent enquiry This Bishops See hath within the Dioces ninetie six Parishes But the ancient Church which was consecrated vnto Daniel sometime Bishop thereof was defaced and set on fire by that notorious Rebell Owen Glendowerdwy who had a purpose also to destroy all the Cities of Wales for that they stood for the King of England And though the same Church was since repaired about the time of King Henry the seauenth yet hath it scarce recouered the resemblance of her former dignitie The Riuer Conwey which limitteth this Shire on the East-side is in Ptolemy by corruption or ignorance of Transcribers called Toisonius in stead of Cononius whence Canonium a Towne mentioned by Antonine tooke name and albeit both it and its name be now vtterly extinct yet is there a couert remembrance thereof in the new name of a poore Village standing among the rubbish thereof called Caer-hean that is The ancient Citie Out of the spoyle whereof King Edward the first built a new Towne at the Riuers mouth termed thereupon Aber-Conwey that is the mouth of Conwey which being formerly fortified by Hugh of Chester and strongly situate and fenced both with wals a faire Castle by the Riuers side deserues rather the name of a Citie then a Towne if it were more populous and traffiqued with Inhabitants Neither must I here forget Newin though but a small Market-Towne for that it pleased the English Nobles Anno 1284 to honour it and the memory of King Arthur with triumphant celebritie after they had subdued the rebellious Ring-leaders of Wales 7 Other matters of memorable note this Country affordeth not much vnlesse perhaps this That iust ouer against the Riuer Conwey where it iflueth into the Sea there sometimes stood an ancient Citie named Diganwey which many yeares agoe was consumed by lightning and so made vtterly desolate as many other monuments haue beene of ancient and worthy memory As likewise that in the Poole Lin-Peris there is a kinde of Fish called there Torco●h hauing a red belly no where else seene For touching these two other miracles famoused by Giraldus and Geruasius that on those his high hils there are two Pooles called the Meares the one of which produceth great store of fish but all hauing onely one eye and in the other there is a moueable Iland which as soone as a man treadeth on it forthwith floateth a great way off whereby the Welsh are said to haue often scaped and deluded their enemies assailing them these matters are out of my Creed and yet I thinke the Reader had rather beleeue them then to goe to see whether it be so or no. SCOTLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION CHAPTER I. SCOTLAND the second Kingdome of Great Britaine and the North part of the Iland hath on the East the Germane Ocean on the North the Orkneys and Deucalidon Sea the West affronted with Ireland and the South hath the Riuer Tweed the Cheuiot Hils and the adiacent Tract reaching to the Sulway Sands whereby it is separated from England 2 This Kingdome is faire and spacious and from these South-borders spreadeth it selfe wide into the East and West till againe it contracts it selfe narrower vnto the Northerne Promontories furnished with all things befitting a famous Kingdome both for Ayre and Soyle Riuers Woods Mountaines Fish Fowle and Cattle and Corne so plenteous that it supplyeth therewith other Countryes in their want The people thereof are of good feature strong of body and of couragious minde and in warres so venturous that scarce any seruice of note hath beene performed but that they were with the first and last in the field Their Nobilitie and Gentry are very studious of learning and all ciuill knowledge for which end they not onely frequent the three Vniuersities of their owne Kingdome S. Andrewes Glasco and Edenbrough the Nurseries of Pietie and Mansions of the sacred Muses but also much
for the whole Empire giuing to those Captaines that serued here many Ensignes of great honor yea Claudius gaue Plantius the first Prefect of that Prouince the right hand as he accompanyed him in his Triumph and his owne Triumph of Britaine was set out with such magnificence that the Prouinces brought in golden Crownes of great waight the Gouernours commanded to attend and the very Capt●ines permitted to be present at the same A Nauall Coronet was fixed vpon apinnacle of his Pallace Arches and Trophees were raysed in Rome and himselfe on his aged knees mounted the staires into the Capitoll supported by his two sonnes in Law so great a ioy conceiued he in himselfe for the Conquest of some small portion of Britaine ENGLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION CHAPTER II. THE Saxons glory now neere to expire by his appointment who holdeth both times and Kingdomes in his all ordering hand their owne Swords being the Instruments and the Danes the maules that beat their beautifull Diadem into pieces the Normans a stirring Nation neyther expected nor much feared vnder the leading of William their Duke and encouragement of the Romane Bishop an vsuall promoter here of broken titles made hither sodainly into England who in one onely battell with the title of his sword and slaughter or Herold set the Emperiall Crowne thereof vpon his owne head which no sooner was done but the English went downe and the Normans lording it became Owners of those Cities which themselues neuer built possessed those Vineyards which they neuer planted dranke of those Wells which they neuer had digged and inhabitted those houses filled with riches for which they neuer had laboured for they found it to be as the land whereupon the Lord set his eye euen from the beginning to the end of the yeare not onely drinking water of the raine of heauen but hauing also riuers of waters and fountaines in her valleyes and without all scarsitie whose stones are yron and out of whose mountaines is digged brasse This made them more resolute at first to settle themselues in this fairest and fruitfullest part of the Iland the Conquerour vsing all policie both Martiall and Ciuill to plant his posteritie here for euer How he found the Land gouerned we shewed in the Heptarchy but his restlesse thoughts were not contented with conquering the Nation and their Land vnlesse he also ouercame their very Customes Lawes and Language 2 Touching the distribution of the Kingdome whereas other Kings before him made vse of it chiefly for the good of the people and better ministring of Iustice he made vse of it to know the wealth of his Subiects and to enrich his Coffers for he caused a description to be made of all England how much land euery one of his Barons possessed how many Knights fees how many Plow lands how many in villenage how many head of beasts yea how much money euery man from the greatest to the least did possesse and what rents might be made of entry mans possession the Booke of which inquisition yet in the Exchequer was called Domesday for the generalitie of that Iudgement on all the Land Whereunto we may adde his other distribution of this Land worse then any former when thrusting the English out of their possessions he distributed their inheritances to his Souldiers yet so that all should be held of the King as of the onely true Lord and possessor 3 For the Lawes by which he meant to gouerne he held one excellent rule and purpose which was that a People ought to be ruled by Lawes written and certaine for otherwise new Iudges would still bring new Iudgements and therefore he caused twelue to be chosen out of euery Countie which should on their oath without inclining one way or other neither adding nor detracting open vnto him all their ancient Lawes and Customes By whose relation vnderstanding that three sorts of Lawes formerly were in the Land Merchenlage West Saxonlage Danelage he had preferred these last himselfe and people being anciently deriued from those Northerne people had not all the Barons bewayling to the King how grieuous it was for a Land to be iudged by those Lawes which they vnderstood not altered his resolute purpose yet in bringing in the strange formes of Norman Processe and pleading in the French tongue which continued till Edward the thirds time that grieuance was but slenderly preuented So likewise did he much alter the old Courts of Iustice where these Lawes should be ministred but whereas the ancient Kings of England according to Moses his example sate in person in the seate of Iustice to right the greater affayres of their Subiects as William La●bert sheweth in King Alfred Edgar Canutus c. and proues out of the Kings Oath out of Bracton Britaine Saxon Lawes c. King William not onely continued this but besides erected some other Courts of Iustice as the Exchequer and certaine Courts and Sessions to be held foure times euery yeare appointing both Iudges some to heare causes others to whom appeales should be made but none from them and also Prefects to looke to good orders Those last Polydor calleth Iustices of Peace but their institution seemes to be farre later and no lesse is his errour on the other side in saying the Conquerour first instituted Sheriffes and the tryall by twelue men which were both ancienter 4 And because the Conquerour for honour of Bishops caused them to remoue from small obscure places to Cities of more renowne we haue therefore reserued to this last place that diuision of this Kingdome which is according to Iurisdiction Episcopall Formerly in the yeare of saluation 636 Honorius the fift Archbishop of Canterbury first diuided England into Parishes which at this day are contained vnder their seuerall Dio●●sans and these againe vnder their two Metropolitanes Canterbury and Yorke in manner following CANTERBVRIE Bishoprickes Counties Parishes Canterbury Kent 257. Rochester 98. London Essex 623. Middlesex Hertford-shire part Lincolne Lincoln-shire 1255. Leicester-shire Huntington Bedford-shire Buckingham-shire Hertford-shire part Chichester Hertford-shire 250. Suffex Winchester Hant-shire 362. Surrey Wight Isle Gernesey Isle Iersey Isle Salisbury Wilt-shire 248. Bark-shire Exester 〈◊〉 shire 604. Cornewall Bath and Wells Sommerset-shire 388. Gloucester Gloucester-shire 267. Worcester Worcester-shire 241. Lichfield and Couentry Warwicke-shire 557. Warwicke-shire part Stafford-shire Derby-shire Shrop-shire part Hereford Shrop-shire part 313. Hereford-shire Ely Cambridge-shire 141. Ely Isle Norwich Norfolke 1121. Suffolke Oxford Oxford-shire 195. Peterborow Northamton 293. Rutland-shire Bristow Dorset-shire 236. Glamorgan Landaffe Monmouth-shire 177. Brecknock-shire Radnor-shire S. Dauid Pembroke-shire 308. Caermarden Bangor Caernaruon-shire 107. Anglesey Isle Merioneth-shire Denbigh-shire S. Asaph Denbigh-shire part 121. Flint shire part YORKE Yorke Yorke-shire 581. Nottingham-shire Chester Ches●●re 256. Richmond-shire Cumberland part ●anca-shire Flint part Carlile Cumberland part 93. Westmorland Durham Durham 135. Northumberland Sodor Man Iland 17. Totall Bishoprickes 27. Parishes 9285. 5 To speake nothing of these twentie-eight Flamins the Priests of Idolatry and the
Shire is drawne indifferently spacious but not very thicke of Inclosures being from East to West in the broadest part not fully 30. miles and from North to South but 24. the whole circumference about 196. miles whose principall Citie is set as the Center almost in the midst from whom the Pole is eleuated 53. degrees and 4 minutes in Latitude and for Longitude 19. degrees 22. minutes 6 From this Towne the Shire hath the name though the name of her selfe is diuersly written as Legecestria Legora Legeo-cester by Ninius Caer-Lerion by Mathew of Westminister if we doe not mistake him Wirall and now lastly Leicester ancient enough if King Leir was her builder eight hundred fortie and foure yeares before the birth of our Sauiour wherein he placed a Flamine to serue in the Temple of Ianus by himselfe there erected and where he was buried if Ieffery ap Arthur say true but now certaine it is that Ethelred the Mercian Monarch made it an Episcopall See in the yeare of Christ Iesus 680. wherein Sexwulph of his election became the first Bishop which shortly after was thence translated and therewith the beautie of the Towne began to decay vpon whose desolations that erectifying Lady Edelsted cast her eyes of compassion and both reedified the buildings and compassed it about with a strong wall where in short time the Cities trade so increased that Matthew Paris in his lesser Story reporteth as followeth Lege-cester saith he is a right wealthy Citie and notably defended and had the wall a sure foundation were inferiour to no Citie whatsoeuer But this pride of prosperitie long lasted not vnder the Normans for it was sore oppressed with a world of calamities when Robert Bossu the Crouch-backe Earle of that Prouince rebelled against his Soueraigne Lord King Henry the second whereof heare the same Author Paris speake Through the obstinate stubbornesse of Earle Robert saith he the noble Citie Leicester was besieged and throwne downe by King Henry and the wall that seemed indissoluble was vtterly raced euen to the ground The peeces of whose fragments so fallen downe remained in his dayes like to hard rockes through the strength of the Morter cementing whole lumpes together and at the Kings command the Citie was set on fire and burnt the Castle raced and a heauit imposition laid vpon the Citizens who with great summes of money bought their owne Banishments but were so vsed in their departure that for extreame feare many of them tooke Sanctuary both at S. Edmunds and S. Albanes In repentance of these mischiefes the Author thereof Earle Robert built the Monastery of S. Mary de Praetis wherein himselfe became a Canon regular and for fifteene yeares continuance in sad laments serued God in continuall prayers With the like deuotion Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built an Hospitall for an hundred and ten poore people with a Collegiate Church a Deane twelue Canons Prebendaries as many Vicars sufficiently prouided for with reuenewes wherein himselfe lyeth buryed and it was the greatest ornament of that Citie vntil the hand of King Henry the 8. lay ouer-heaiue vpon all the like foundations and laid their aspired tops at his owne feete The fortunes of another Crouch-backe King Richard the V●●●per were no lesse remarkable in this Citie then the former Robert was both of them in like degree of dishonourable course of life though of disterent issue at their deaths the one dying penitent and of deuout esteeme the other leauing the stench of Tyranny to all following ages who from this Citie setting forth in one day with great pompe and in Battle aray to keepe the Crowne sure vpon his owne Helmet in a sore 〈◊〉 field yeelded both it and his life vnto the head and hands of Henry of Richmond his Conquerour and the next day was brought backe like a Hogge naked and 〈◊〉 and with contempt without teares 〈◊〉 buried in the G●●y-Fryers of this Citie whose suppression hath suppressed the plot place of his graue and onely the stone-chest wherein he was laid a drinking trough now for horses in a common In●e retaineth the memory of that great Monarchs Funerall and so did a stone in the Church and Chappell of S. Maries inclose the corpse of the proud and pontificall Cardinall Wolsey who had prepared for himselfe as was said a farre more richer Monument 7 Otherplaces worthy of remembrance in this Shire were these In the West where a high Crosse was erected in former times stood the faire Citie Cleycester the Romans BENONNES where their Legions lay and where their two principall wayes crossed each other as the Inhabitants report Loughborrow in the North-verge was as Marianus affirmeth taken from the Britaine 's by Cuthwolfe their King about the yeare of Christ 572. At Redmore neere Bosworth Westward in this Countie the Kingdome of England lay in hazard of one Battle when King Richards Field was fought where the Land at once was freed from a Tyrant and a wicked Vsurper Neither may we passe Lutterworth as the least in account where the famous Iohn Wickliffe Englands Morning-starre dispersed the clouds of all Papisticall darknesse by preaching the Gospell in that his charge and stile of his pen so piercing in power that the man of Sinne euer since hath beene better knowne to the world 8 Religious houses by Princes erected and by them deuoted to God and his seruice the chiefest in this Shire were at Leicester Grace-Dieu Kerby Bellers and at Burton a Spittle for Lazers a disease then newly approched in this Land for the erection whereof a common contribution was gathered thorow the Realme the Patients in this place were not so much deformed in skin as the other were in the defects for the soule whose skirts being turned vp to the sight of the world their s●●mes were discouered and those houses dissolued that had long maintained such Idolatrous sinnes LINCOLN-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXI THe County of Lincolne by the Normans called Nicolshire is consined on the North with Humber on the East with the German Ocean vpon the South is parted from Cambridge and Northampton-shire by the Riuer Nyne and on the West from Nottingham and York-shires by Dun and Trent 2 The length of this Prouince extended from Barton vpon Humber in the North vnto Stanford vpon the Riuer Nyne in the South are miles by our English measure fiftie fiue and the bredth thereof from Newton in the West stretched vnto Wintbory vpon her East Sea containeth thirtie fiue The whole in circumference about one hundred and eightie miles 3 The Ayre vpon the East and South part is both thicke and foggy by reason of the Fennes and vnsolute grounds but therewithall very moderate and pleasing Her graduation being remoued from the Aequator to the degree of 53. and the windes that are sent of her still working Seas doe disperse those vapours from all power of hurt 4 The forme of this County doth somewhat resemble the body of a Lute whose East coasts lye bowe-like into the German
West hath not obstinately ceased from time to time to flash and mangle it and with his fell irruptions and boysterous Tides to de●oure it Another thing there is not vnworthy to be recommended to memory that in this Shire not far from Fournesse Fell●s the greatest standing water in all England called Winander-Mere lieth stretched out for the space of ten miles of wonderfull depth and all paued with stone in the bottome and along the Sea-side in many places may be seene heapes of sand vpon which the people powre water vntill it recouer a 〈◊〉 humour which they afterwards boile with Turffes till it become white salt 8 This Country as it is thus on the one side freed by the naturall resistance of the Sea from the force of Inuasions so is it strengthned on the other by many Castles and fortified places that take away the opportunitie of making Roades and Incursions in the Country And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons crueltie so was it the last and longest that was subdued vnder the West-Saxons Monarchie 9 In this Prouince our noble Arthur who died laden with many trophics of honour is reported by Ninius to haue put the Saxons to flight in a memorable battle neere Duglasse a little Brooke not farre from the Towne of Wiggin But the attempts of warre as they are seuerall so they are vncertaine for they made not Duke Wade happy in his successe but returned him an vnfortunate vnterpriser in the Battle which he gaue to Arduiph King of Northumberland at Billangho in the yeare 798 So were the euents vncertaine in the Ciuill Warres of Yorke and Lancaster for by them was bred and brought forth that bloudy diuision and fatall strife of the Noble Houses that with variable successe to both parties for many yeares together molested the peace and quiet of the Land and defiled the earth with bloud in such violent manner that it exceeded the horrour of those Ciuill Warres in Rome that were betwixt Mariu● and Scylla Pompey and Caesar Octauius and Antony or that of the two renowned Houses Valoys and Eurbon that a long time troubled the State of France for in the diuision of these two Princely Families there were thirteene Fields sought and three Kings of England one Prince of Wales twelue Dukes one Marques eighteene Earles one Vicount and three and twentie Barons besides Knights and Gentlemen lost their liues in the same Yet at last by the happy marriage of Henry the seauenth King of England next heire to the House of Lancaster with Elizabeth daughter and heire to Edward the Fourth of the House of Yorke the white and red Roses were conioyned in the happy vniting of those two diuided Families from whence our thrice renowned Soueraigne Lord King Iames by faire sequence and succession doth worthily enioy the Di●deme by the benefit of whose happy gouernment this Countie Palatine of Lancaster is prosperous in her Name and Greatnesse YORKE-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXVIII AS the courses and confluents of great Riuers are for the most part fresh in memory though their heads and fountaines lie commonly vnknowne so the latter knowledge of great Regions are not traduced to obliuion though perhaps their first originals be obscure by reason of Antiquitie and the many reuolutions of times and ages In the delineation therefore of this great Prouince of Yorkshire I will not insist vpon the narration of matters neere vnto vs but succinctly run ouer such as are more remote yet neither so sparingly as I may seeme to diminish from the dignitie of so worthy a Country nor so prodigally as to spend time in the superfluous praising of that which neuer any as yet dispraised And although perhaps it may seeme a labour vnnecessary to make relation of ancient remembrances either of the Name or Nature of this Nation especially looking into the difference of Time it selfe which in euery age bringeth forth diuerse effects and the dispositions of men that for the most part take lesse pleasure in them then in divulging the occurrents of their owne times yet I hold it not vnfit to begin there from whence the first certaine direction is giuen to proceede for euen of these ancient things there may be good vse made eitherby imitation or way of comparison as neither the repetition nor the repetition thereof shall be accounted impertinent 2 You shall therefore vnderstand That the Countie of Yorke was in the Saxon tongue called Ebona-yeyne and now commonly Yorkeshire farre greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles then any Shire of England Shee is much bound to the singular loue and motherly ca●● of Nature in placing her vnder so temperate a clime that in euery measure she is 〈…〉 If one part of her be stony and a sandy barren ground another is fertile and richly adorned with Corne-fields If you here finde it naked and destitute of Woods you shall see it there shadowed with Forrests full of trees that haue very thicke 〈◊〉 sending forth many fruitfull and profitable branches If one place of it be Moorish Mirie and vnpleasant another makes a free tender of delight and presents it selfe to the eye full of beautie and contentiue varietie 3 The Bishopricke of Durham fronts her on the North-side and is seperated by a continued course of the Riuer Tees The Germaine Sea lieth sore vpon her Bast side beating the shores with her boisterous waues and billowes The West part is bounded with Lancashire and Westmerland The South-side hath Cheshire and Darbishire friendly Neighbours vnto her with the which she is first inclosed then with Nottingham and with Lincolne-shires after diuided with that famous Arme of the Sea Humber Into which all the Riuers that water this Country emptie themselues and pay their ordinary Tributes as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune for all the watery Pensions of this Prouince 4 This whole Shire being of it selfe so spatious for the more easie and better ordering of her ciuill gouernment is diuided into three parts which according to three quarters of the world are called The West-Riding The East-Riding and The North-Riding West-Riding is for a good space compassed with the Riuer Ouse with the bounds of Lancashire and with the South limits of the Shire and beareth towards the West and South East-Riding bends it selfe to the Ocean with the which and with the Riuer Derment she is inclosed and lookes into that part where the Sunne rising and shewing forth his beames makes the world both glad and glorious in his brightnesse North-Riding extends it selfe Northward 〈◊〉 in as it were with the Riuer Tees and Derwent and a long race of the Riuer Ouse The length of this Shire extended from Ha●thill in the South to the mouth of Tees in the North are neere vnto seauentie miles the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-castle vpon the Riuer 〈◊〉 is fourescore miles the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles 5 The Soile of this County for the