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A29216 A journal of the embassy from their Majesties John and Peter Alexievitz, emperors of Muscovy &c. over land into China through the provinces of Ustiugha, Siberia, Dauri, and the great Tartary to Peking the capital city of the Chinese empire by Everard Isbrand, their ambassador in the years 1693, 1694, and 1695 written by Adam Brand, secretary of the embassy ; translated from the original High-Dutch printed in Hamburgh, 1698 ; to which is added Curious observations concerning the products of Russia by H.W. Ludolf.; Beschreibung der Chinesischen Reise. English Brand, Adam, d. 1713.; Ludolf, Heinrich Wilhelm, 1655-1710. Curious observations concerning the products of Russia. 1698 (1698) Wing B4246; ESTC R29054 54,732 152

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all over with Tapistry and behind the Dorgamba stood a little Page with a Basket made of Straw-work which was the Dorgamba's Spitting-Pot Thus we spent the greatest part of the day with a great deal of Diversion and on the 19th being a great Feast day at Court we were again splendidly Entertained at the Bogdegan's Table In the year 1694. on the 6th of Ianuary and on the 16th we were again invited to the Bogdegan's Table On the 26th of the same month the Dorgamba obliged us with the sight of a very fierce Panther and the same day we were again admitted to the Bogdegan's Table On the 27th we paid a visit to the Jesuits who treated us with a very good Breakfast Their Church is a very curious piece of Architecture with a fine Organ which is placed on the outside of it towards the Street There were at that time eight Fathers of that Society at Peking On the 29th it was a hard Frost with a strong North Wind and abundance of Snow On the 4th of February both the Adogeda's brought Orders for the Ambassador to make his Appearance at Court Accordingly we went on Horseback to Court on the 5th of February where after we had been entertain'd very splendidly at the Bogdegan's Table the Ambassador was told that according to his desire he should be dismiss'd in twelve nights Accordingly on the 15th of Febr. the Bogdegan sent one of his Coutiers to the Ambassador to desire him to come to Court the next morning with all his Attendance and the Cosacks to receive the usual Presents of the Bogdegan The day before we went to Court we were treated at the Bogdegan's Charge at our Quarters when the Ambassador with his whole Attendance went on Horseback being conducted by the Adogeda's into a spacious Court where we received the following Presents A Horse with Bridle and Saddle and all other Accoutrements A Chinese Cap with a Silk Puff on the top of it A Sur-toot of Damask Brocaded with Gold Serpents and lined with Lamb-Skins A Scarff a Knife 6 Handkerchiefs and 2 Tobacco Bags A pair of Leather Boots and a pair of Silk Stockings A piece of Black Sattin of 10 yards A piece of Ludan of 20 yards 16 pieces of Kitaick 7 Lan of Silver worth 14 Crowns The Ambassador's Gentlemen had each of them the following Presents A Chinese Cap with a red Silk Puff on the top A Damask Surtoot lined with Lambs-Skin A piece of Sattin of 10 yards A piece of Ludan of 10 yards A Scarff with a Knife 2 Tobacco Baggs and 6 Handkerchiefs One pair of Leather Boots with a pair of Silk Stockings quilted with Cotton 16 pieces of Kitaick One Lan and a half of Silver worth 3 Crowns The Cosacks and Servants received each the following Presents A piece of Sattin of 10 yards Eight pieces of Kitaick One Lan of Silver On the 18th of February the Ambassador being again invited to Court the Dorgamba told him that if he were ready for his departure the Carriages should attend him the next morning at his Quarters I am not ignorant that in this place I ought to give the Reader a particular Account of the Manners Customs and Religion of the Chineses but I will content my self to give only in this Journal a general Account of the Empire of China and its Capital City called Peking The most Potent Empire of China is known under several Names among Foreign Nations The Tartars call it Katay those of Siam Sin the Iapanneses Than and some of the Tartarian Nations call it Han. The Chineses themselves have given it many Sir-names for among the many Families that have sway'd the Chinese Scepter each Founder of its Race has assigned it its particular Title Thus it is called Than broad without measure Iu Peace Tha large Sciam pleasant Cheu complea● but among all the rest the Chineses have retain'd two the first of which is Chungehoa that is the Middle Empire and Chunque which is the Middle Garden being of Opinion that the Earth was four Square and their Empire in the midst of it This vast Country was in the year before the Birth of Christ 2254 divided into 12 Provinces by their Emperor Xucus and by his Successor Iva into 9 which at that time comprehended only the Northern Provinces as far as the River Kiang But after the Southern Parts were united with this Empire it was divided into fifteen Provinces Most of them were formerly under the Jurisdiction of their own Princes but after they were Conquered and United with the Chinese Crown were Governed by Viceroy's who to this day have the Administration of Affairs in those Places It is divided into the Northern and Southern Part. The first is that which is properly called Katay by the Tartars and comprehends 5 Provinces to wit Peking Xantung Xansi Xiemsi Honan to which some add the Province of Leaotung and the Peninsula of Corea The other 9 Provinces are Nanking Chekiang Kiangsi Huquang Suchuen Queicheu Iunnan Quangsi Quantung Fockien which by one general Name are called by the Tartars Mangin The North and Southern Provinces are divided by the River Kiang by the Chineses called the Son of the Ocean The Empire of China borders on the East on the great Eastern Ocean called by the Chineses Tung Towards the North on the Chinese Wall which divides it from the Great Tartary on the West it has the Mountain of Thebet to the Confines of Bengala On the South-side is the Kingdom of Couchinchina which is Tributary to the Chineses Empire It s whole Breadth from the Isle of Hanon situate under the 18th Degree of North Latitude to the 42th Degree of North Latitude is 330 German Leagues It s length from the West under the 112th Degree till East under the 34th Degree near the City Ningpo or Nampo is 450 German Leagues This whole Empire seems both by Art and Nature made impregnable For on the West side is the Mountain of Thebet and the great Desart of Xama On the North side the famous Chinese Wall which was begun to be built in the year 215 before Christ's Birth and was finished in 5 years On the South and East it is surrounded with the Ocean where by reason of the many Rocks and Sands there is no no safe Landing unless it be in a few places The City of Peking the Capital of the Empire and Residence of its Kings has borrowed its Name from the Province of Peking which on the East Borders on the great Gulph betwixt Corea and Iapan on the North-East upon the Province of Leaotung on the North upon the Great Tartary and part of the Chinese Wall and on the West the Province of Xansi This Province has 8 famous Cities to wit Peking Paoting Hokian Chinting Xunte Quanping Taming and Iunping The City of Peking is situate under 39 Degrees 59 Minutes upon the Northern Confines of the Province of Peking not far from the famous Chinese Wall On the South side it is
Hunting-Dog in his life-time for which reason these poor Wretches made sad moans and lamentations for the loss of so serviceable a Creature After having uttered many things in his praise they put him into a Grave dug for that purpose with a piece of Wood under his Head for fear he should lie uneasy and as a Monument of their gratitude for his past Services they erected a little Hutt over his Grave We were credibly informed that it is a very ancient Custom among these People to bury all their Dogs and to reward their past Services in the same manner Their manner of living is very miserable Husbandry being a thing unknown among them Hunting is their only livelihood Sables and the Reen-Deer being the only Commodities this Country affords We pursued our Journey on the 26th of May leaving the small River called Silva Reka on our right Hand and towards Noon the small River Kine on the same side and towards Evening the River Serebrena Reka to the left of us On the 28th of May we passed by Vlko Mesovasa and Sullem Reka to the left of us On the 29th of the same Month we left Vlko Serebrena Reka on the same side and on the Right the River Doria Reka On the 1st of Iune we came to Vlk●gorod a Place fortified after the Russian manner with wooden Fortifications but very small containing not above twenty Families We spent above three Weeks upon the River Susowa our Vessel being sometimes drawn sometimes rowed but always against the Current which by reason of the many windings of the River is very swift and so violent that we were sometimes droven back for a quarter of a Mile before we could recover our selves besides that we met with several Cataracts which took up a whole day before we could pass them and that not without great danger To add to our affliction we were continually pestered with such an infinite number of Gnats that whatever precaution we took it was impossible for us to preserve us against their fury All the way betwixt Solamsko and Vlko we saw nothing but Desarts and Rocks on both sides of us which are most dreadful to behold at a distance and because we could not go further up the River we were forc'd to tarry nine days at Vlko before we could be furnish'd with Land-Carriages which time we spent in providing our selves with Forage and all other necessaries and on the 10th of Iune set forward again in our Journey to Newa leaving our Baggage to follow us the next day The 12th of Iune we travell'd through a Town call'd Ajat situate upon a River of the same name and the 13th to another Town called Romasheva upon the River Resh The Grounds hereabouts are very fertile and well peopled abounding in all sorts of Corn and whereas whilst we were upon the River Susowa we scarce got sight of a Village in 60 Miles we now could not travel a Verst or English Mile without meeting with a good Village where we were furnish'd with every thing we stood in need of Whilst we were in this Town the Inbabitants received Intelligence by Messengers and Letters sent for that purpose that the Calmu●k Tartars to the Number of 6000 had made an Inroad into the next Province where they had made such miserable havock with Murthering Burning Plundering and Driving away both Men and Cattle that they had put all the Country round about under a great Consternation as dreading the same treatment On the 14th of Iune we reach'd Newagorod a small but very pleasant Town it has but an indifferent Fortification not much better than Vlko but is remarkable for its Situation upon the River Newa the Boundary of Siberia on this side This Journey was very pleasant and diverting to us after our former Fatigues and Dangers the Country being everywhere fill'd with Inhabitants and the Fields well cultivated the wild Roses and other sweet Herbs affording a very agreeable scent and a most delightful prospect The pleasantness of the Place invited us to tarry here a whole day which we spent in walking about the Fields and gathering of Roses Lillies of the Valley and such like On the 16th of Iune our Baggage arrived at Newa-Gorod and the next following day we again received intelligence that the above-mentioned Calmuck Tartars were advanced within four days Journey of this Place and that after they had made themselves Masters of a certain Frontier Town which they had besieged they intended to march this way The Inhabitants hereabouts being sufficiently sensible of the Cruelties exercised by these Vagabonds in their Excursions were in most dreadful fear of these Barbarians and we forewarned of the approaching danger hastned the equipment of our Vessel which being got ready in five days after we stay'd not one moment longer but after we had thus spent seven days betwixt hope and fear at Newa we set out from thence on the 21st of Iune steering our course upon the River for Tobolsko being provided with a Convoy of 12 Cossacks of the Garison of Newa for our better security The River Resh falls 5 Miles above Newa into another River where with its stream it loses its Name and is from thenceforward called Niatza The first Town we met with upon this River on the 22d is called Rudna and not far from thence another goodly Town called Nigniske situate in a very fertile and populous Country fit both for Pasturage and Tillage the Fields and Plains being surrounded and covered with Rose-trees which afford a most delightful prospect On the 23d of Iune we pass'd by three very handsome Towns to wit Iebitzke Kerginskoy and Suborara On the 24th we came in sight of the Town called Ialan famous for nothing else but that near it this River joins its Current with the River Kira Towards the Evening we saw another Town at some distance named Krasna Hobod and on the 25th about Midnight came to the City of Tumen It is a large and strong Place being fortified with a very good Wall the Inhabitants are for the most part Tartars who have setled here for the conveniency of Trade They are much more civilized than any of the other Tartars by reason of their frequent Conversation with Strangers Most of these Towns furnish'd us with fresh Water-men who being well rewarded for their pains so warmly ply'd their Oars that we advanced apace I cannot pass by here in silence the extraordinary Liberality and Hospitality of the Inhabitants of these Parts for we scarce could pass by a Town tho' never so indifferent but the Inhabitants would come forth and bring us Provisions and sometimes Furs without the least reward or recompence to our no small astonishment who were not used to meet often with such kind treatment among such Barbarous Nations they being generally of the Tartarian Race The next Town we met with was called Makowa situate on the Confluence of the Rivers Pishma Reka and the Tura which runs by the City of Wergaturia On
24 Cossacks who were to convoy us to Ienokisko and on the 25th of August re-imbark'd upon the River Oby which we left on the 29th of the same month and entred the River Ketto where being obliged to Row against the Current we were above a month before we could reach the Town of Mokuskoy from whence we continued our Journey by Land to Ienokisko We saw abundance of Cedar-trees on both sides of the River Ketto and on the first of September refresh'd our selves at a small Town called Kettskoy But meeting with very slender Accommodation we got on board again the same night and did not stir out of the Vessel till the 28th following there being nothing but Desarts on both sides of the River On the 16th of September we were all on a sudden put under a great Consternation for it having frozen very hard the night before we were in no small apprehension of the danger of perishing for want of Necessaries in these Desarts which must have been infallibly our fate if the Frost had continued longer but as good fortune would have it we were soon freed from this Danger by a very agreeable Thaw and being besides this encouraged by a fresh and favourable Gale we made use of all our Skill and on the 28th of the same month came to a Monastery situate upon the Banks of the River where we reposed our selves for some days after a long fatigue of a whole month and in remembrance of the past danger kept a Thanksgiving day there on the 2d of October to offer our Thanks to God Almighty for our Deliverance and to implore his Mercy for the future After Prayers c. we set Sail again the same Evening when we passed a small Village which contained not above six Families We saw hereabouts abundance of Currant-trees both black and red we had met with some of them before near this River but no where else in so great a quantity which made us judge the Grounds hereabouts were more kind and fruitful than in other places On the 3d of October died one of the Ambassador's Retinue after 13 days illness His Name was Iohn George Weltzel a Native of Germany of the City of Golding in Silesia by his Profession a Painter On the 7th of the same month we got safely to the so long wish'd for small City of Mokuskoy where among other things we gratified our selves with a cool draught of very good Beer By Orders from the Ambassador we interr'd the dead Body of our Friend upon a Hill upon the very Banks of the River Ietto where we put a Cross this being the only Monument we were capable of dedicating to the Memory of our deceased Fellow-traveller After we had a little recovered our selves from the past Fatigues the Ambassador and most of his Retinue pursued their Journey by Land on the 10th of October leaving nine of his Attendance behind to take care of the Baggage which was to follow us as soon as the Roads should be rendred convenient for the passage of Sleds We travell'd for two days and nights through a most dreadful Forest till on the 12th of the same month we came in sight of Ienokisko where we made our publick Entrance the same night with so much Magnificence that the Inhabitants were surprized thereat This City lies upon the River Ienska famous not only for the conveniency of Shipping but also for the most prodigious Plenty of Fish it affords Betwixt this Place and Tobolsko the Ostiacky have their Habitations They are low of Stature and very deformed besides which both Men and Women constantly are subject to a certain Weakness in their Eyes the cause of which they attribute to the want of Bread which being a scarce Commodity among them they seldom are masters of it unless they are by chance furnish'd with it by Travellers which happening very rarely in so remote a Country we supplied them with what we were able to spare Their common Food is River-fish and instead of Bread they make use of the same Fish dried Whilst we were as yet upon the River Oby we were every day suppli'd with great Quantities of the best River-fish by those Ostiacky who refused our Money but earnestly entreated us to give them in lieu of it some Salt Bread and Chinese Sharr or Tobacco which we did accordingly Not far from the Banks of the River Ketto I espied one day some wretched Hutts which believing to belong to the Ostiacky and being willing to satisfy my curiosity in taking a view of their Habitations I got on shore and having easily got admission by the help of a small Present of Bread and Salt to the Owners I entred them which made a wretched appearance being made only of the Barks of Trees One among them somewhat bigger than the rest and distinguish'd by certain Figures invited my Curiosity to take a full View of it Being entred I found three Women lying upon the Ground who at the sight of me arose from their places and by their noddings and threatnings sufficiently testified their displeasure of seeing a Stranger to interrupt them in their retirement but being sensible that I had prepared my way by the Presents given to the Owners I took notwithstanding all their wry Faces the liberty to search every corner of the Hutt These three Women as I was informed afterwards were the Wives of so many Knezes or Dukes of the Ostiacky but their Equipage appear'd little suitable to their Quality for I could not meet with any thing worth taking notice of all over the Hall but their Sheitan or as they themselves call'd it their God This Idol was of Wood of about a Yard in length appearing most dreadful at first sight the Head of it being covered with a strong Tin or Iron-Plate which look'd as black as a Chimney-stock by reason of the many Incenses which they offer to this Idol For the rest it was dress'd up in a ragged Coat of woollen Cloth patch'd together with 1000 pieces of all sorts of Colours I don't remember that ever I saw the most wretched Beggar make so miserable an appearance as this their God unto whom this superstitious People attribute a Power of preserving them from ill All the while we were upon the River betwixt Sergutt and Mokuskoy we had no other Barge-men but these Ostiacky who though they were young and lustly Fellows and were well entertained on Board of our Vessels yet were so lazy that they would rather have sate at home and starved than to come and work for a good livelihood It is by reason of this their lazy Temper that they seldom take the pains to go abroad a Hunting And for the same reason it is that they change continually their Habitations sometimes 16 or 20 times in a year because say they we are willing to put our selves beyond the reach of such Travellers who come this way and oftentimes sorely against our wills force us to the Oars The Ambassador being willing
the Place would allow of they presented us with some Tea which was very welcome to us who were grown quite weary of drinking cold Water After we had taken our leave of one another we travelled for two days through a Countrey very agreeable for its pleasant Hills and fertile Valleys where the River Iall has its rise and afterwards becomes a large navigable River On the 31st of August our Messenger Kundikoff whom the Ambassador had dispatch'd from Iokutskoy to Naun returned and brought advice that a certain Person of Note in the Quality of an Adogeda or Conductor of Ambassadors was arrived from Peking to Naun where he expected the Arrival of the Ambassador On the 1st of September there came a Messenger from the said Adogeda to the Ambassador who having complimented him in his Master's Name brought us the first Chinese Carriages and a Present of 10 Sheep some Rice and Oatmeal he was sent back immediately On the 2d of September we reach'd the first Out-Guards consisting of 12 persons of the Chineses on the 3d we came to the second and on the 4th to the third These Scouts lay concealed upon the Hills and as soon as they perceive any Caravans or other Strangers coming that way they give notice to one another by certain Signals which reach to the Cities of China For several days together we travelled through very pleasant Forests where among other Trees we found abundance of Oaks which were very low but spread their Branches in a very large Compass We saw here also Filbird-trees in the Plains differing in shape from those we have in Europe as being not above half or three quarters of a Yard high and their Stalks very thin they bear a prodigious quantity of Nuts of a very large size The next Place we came to was inhabited by the Targuts Chinay who are Pagans subject to the Chineses they are good Husband-men the Countrey abounding in Oats Barley Oatmeal and Tobacco and we being in want of some Oatmeal and Salt we furnished our selves with as much as we stood in need of These People live on the utmost Confines of the Province of Dauri for that part of the Province which is under the Muscovite Jurisdiction extends only to the River Argun from whence to the Village of Suttegarshe all the rest belongs to the Chineses by vertue of the above-mention'd Treaty On the 10th of September several other Messengers arrived from the Adogeda who were sent back immediately After we had travelled three days longer through a Desart we arrived at last to the Village of Sutt●ga belonging to the Chineses where meeting with the Adogeda whose Attendance consisted of 50 persons he invited us the same Evening into his Tent where he presented us with some Thee boil'd in Milk with Flower and Butter in wooden Dishes and some Preserves and Sweet-meats The 13th of September the said Adogeda invited the Ambassador with all his Retinue to Dinner where he met the Ambassador at some distance from his Tent and after a very obliging Salute conducted him with his left hand thither We stay'd about half an hour before Dinner was brought in which time they bestow'd in entertaining one another with several Questions The Adogeda ask'd the Ambassador How long he had been travelling from Musco to this place Unto which he reply'd A year and a half He ask'd him further his Name which he told him was Ilesar Ilesarevits Isbrand Whilst they passed their time in such-like discourses Dinner was served up upon a small Table without a Table-cloth the Ambassador and the Adogeda having each his own Dish as had all the rest Our Dishes were filled with Mutton and Pork the second Course was Pottage wherein was a mixture of fine Flower made in the nature of a Pudding but very long and thin not unlike a Gut We were put to a nonplus how to manage this Dish but two Secretaries belonging to the Adogeda who were much better acquainted with it than we shew'd us the way For instead of Knives they had two Bonesticks betwixt these they took up these Puddings which they thus conveyed to their mouths which they held over the Dishes and after they had bit off a good mouthful they let the rest drop in the Dish again These Sticks used by the Chineses in lieu of our Knives and Forks are streight of about a quarter of a Yard long made either of Ebony-Wood Bones or Ivory tipp'd on the end where they touch the Victuals with Gold or Silver which they use with a great deal of dexterity without touching the Victuals with their Fingers After Dinner two Silver Cups fill'd with Brandy were brought to the Adogeda one of which he presented to the Ambassador the other he drunk himself All the rest had also Purcelain Cups with Brandy presented them which they were to take off to the bottom The Feast concluded with a Service of Sweetmeats in wooden Dishes The 14th of September the Ambassador invited the Adogeda to his Quarters where we observed that our way of Entertaining seem'd to them as strange as theirs had done to us the day before After Dinner the Ambassador desir'd the Adogeda to provide us the necessary Carriages and Passes which he performed to our satisfaction The Ambassador had for his daily allowance two Sheep for each of his Secretaries one Sheep for each of his Gentlemen one Sheep for the rest of his Attendance some two some three some four to a Sheep for the Cossacks Labourers and Grooms ten Men to a Sheep for the ordinary Fellows a Measure of Oatmeal each a day and for the better sort a Paper with Tea which was a very plentiful Allowance but that we wanted Bread which is a Commodity as little known among the Chineses as some other Asiaticks The Inhabitants of the City of Naun 5 Miles distant from the Village of Suttigatt are Idolaters adoring the Devil in the night-time with most horrid Out-cries Their Houses are very commodious and neat their Livelihood being most Planting of Tobacco On the 16th of September the Ambassador sent to the Adogeda the following Presents 10 Sables 50 Ermins 5 Yards of black Cloth A looking-glass with a gilt Frame Another Looking-glass with a black Frame Several Glass-bottles with Aquavitae Some pieces of gilt Leather And several rare pieces made at Augsburgh that moved by the help of Clock-work It was a great while before the Adogeda could be prevailed upon to accept these Presents by reason they are under an obligation not to receive any Presents for which reason it is that when any Presents are offered them which they cannot in honour refuse they have them valued and are to return double the value of it to those who presented them On the 21st the Adogeda sent to the Ambassador six Tables covered with Sweetmeats and two Earthen Bottles of Chinese Brandy On the 23d he invited the Ambassador to Dinner and he was invited by us again on the 24th Having thus diverted our selves for 14