Buildings then in their Garbe for by the art of Palladius the late Reviver of the Roman Architecture a Vicentin this city is beautified with stately Pallaces publick and private The Hall of Justice is admirable both for the Ancient and moderne structure the Tower lofty the Piazza most capacious of Turnaments and other assemblyes of the Gentry Who are much given to shewes and Pastimes and to this purpose they have erected a Theatre the figure whereof I conceive to bee like those of the ancienr Romans though the materialls differ Palladius was the Inventor as this Inscription over the stage testifieth Virtuti ac Genio Olympior Academia Theatrum hoc a Fundamentis erexit Paladio Archit Anno 1584. It will hold five thousand persons the Scene is very well contrived with Statues and Corinthian Order the Prospective represents a Kingly City Diverse like places of recreation there are within and about the City amongst which is the Campo Marzo made in imitation of that anciently at Rome for to exercise the youth in Chevalry thither the Ladies and Gallentry of the City resort in the sommer Evenings to take the Aire The Arch or entrance into this Field will stand as a perpetuall monument of Palladius that built it Just opposite is the Garden of Connt Valmarana wherein the close Walke of Citron and Orange trees together with the Labyrinthe are things very commendable Going forth at the gate di Monte one sees another Arch of Palladius with a most high paire of staires to the top of the Madonna Del Monte Halfe a mile farther by the river side which river was in Latin cald Meduacus Minor is the Rotonda of Conte Mario Capra so cald from the Cupola at the top or likenesse it hath with the Pantheon at Rome though in my opinion it more resembles the Temple of Janus Quadrifrons for it hath foure faces and foure Gates Palladius made this his Master-piece for t is so contriv'd that it containes Geometrically a Round a Crosse and a Square The Master of this house uses all strangers very civilly His Sellars are the best and the best furnished I met with neither is he sparing of his Wines to Travellers As wee were returning from this house to our Inne wee met with him and his followers attending him one of them who spake French sayd his Master desir'd to see us at his house to morrow but our short stay would not permit us to accept of that kind invitation I infer this passage to shew the generous Minds of the Vicentines The next morning wee left Vicenza very early dind at Osteria Nuova the midway And about foure in the afternoone wee came unto Verona T is the vulgar Criticisme on this Name that if it bee syllabizd it comprehends the first letters of the three head Cities of Italy Ve-Venetia Ro-Roma Na Others leave the verball dirivation and more strictly interpret it that whatsoever is containd in those three Cities may bee found in Verona Her wealth may be compar'd to that of Venice Her Monuments of Antiquity equall even those of Rome neither is the delightfull situation inferiour to that of Naples Thus much I must needs say were I to see Italy againe I should make my Station at Verona for I know no place more agreeable or commodious for a stranger The City stands one part on the side the other at the foot of a hill behind which is a continuation of huge Mountaines Before one side of the City lies a rich Plat Countrey Before the other a stony Champion or Downes wherein C. Marius gave a totall overthrow to the Cimbrians The River Athesis divideth the City in the midst Thus nature hath adornd Her neither hath art been wanting to glorifie her and this one may collect from the mighty remnants of Roman Magnificence that yet stand within her walls I may say with Martiall Vnum pro cunctis fama loquatur Opus Of the Amphitheatre at Verona the most perfect that is to be seen this day in Christendome the figure whereof I have here set downe As in the page following The Amphitheatre at Verona Arena This noble worke was spoild of all its ornaments by the Barbarous that sackt Italy yet one may easily judge how betwixt the Arches and the Columnes there were statues In the circuit of this Moles are three Porches one within another made for the Spectatours to goe in and out without disturbance to any one In the midst is the Arena where the Combatants fought in an ovale forme foure and thirty perches long large two and twenty environed with two and forty seats which lie gradatim one above another still extending to the top In these Cirques the vastnesse of Marble stones is incredible so bigge that one cannot conceive how they were transported thither This worke was perfected by L. V. Flaminius Cousul Anno Vrb Cond. 53. Many other signes of Venerable Antiquity are there in Verona as Arches-Triumphalls ruines of Temples Aquiducts Urnes and the like There 's one Arch Triumphall dedicated to Marius for his victory over the Cimbrians And although this City bee not now of so great a compasse as Historians report it was in the height of the Roman Empire yet the Venetians have with great expence joynd new Bulwarkes and walls unto the old and it is fencd with three Castles which make it as well impregnably strong as delightfull The buildings of this City are answerable to the Italian The fairest is the Councell house upon the roofe whereof stand expos'd to the open ayre the Statues of Cornelius Nepos Emilius Marcus old Poets Pliny the Naturall Historiographe Vetruvius the Architecture all which men graced their native Verona by their singular Vertues Besides these the Learned Scaliger was of Verona for whose sake and his Family i Signori della Scala there is in the heart of the city before the Inne wee lay at Il Cavaletto a stately Tombe of Marble encompast with Iron worke in the fashion of a Ladder which that name implies These things wee saw before it grew darke at Verona which wee left the next morning having renewed our bargaine with the same Coach that brought us thither to carry us to Milan At our going out of the Towne I saw a Porphire Tombe in a Church yarde t was told me that a King of the Goths lay buried there Looking into the River Athesis I espied a Bridge of old Roman work and some Engines which convey water out of the river in to the city by Pipes When wee parted from Verona and indeed through all the Venetian State our Matriculations wee had from Padua did us much service for by that meanes none of the Guard would dare to hinder us as they usually doe strangers Two miles beyond Verona wee past over the Downes memorable for the Battells of Marius About noone wee came to Cavalli Caschieri an Inne two miles short of Peschiera which is a most strong Fort of the Venetians standing at
place commonly pillageth strangers they taking all for Frenchmen but praysed be God wee past quietly and towards breake of day came before Savona The most ancient and greatest city of the Genevoisat after Genua it selfe Behind this city the Apennines that cleave Italy in sunder begin to take their rise From hence to Genua is 35. Italian miles all which way one goes more and more into the pleasantnesse of Italy the whole board being fild with Country Seats and Villages which for beauty surpasse many cities I have seene elsewhere Amongst those San Pietro d' Arania whither the richer Genuesians retire themselves in the sommer and indeed may bee call'd another Genua for the gallantry of the buildings is the best but three miles distant from Genua the Metropolis of that most flourishing Republick which contains so stately Palaces that from all the rest of Italy it hath gotten the name of Genua the superbe T is situated at the foot of very high mountaines which though sterile yet want nothing that Art can enrich them with In gardens water-workes and the like That which exceeds all the rest is the Prince of Orias Palace reaching from the bottome of the shoare to the top of the mountaines divided into three gardens In the first whereof the Terrasses or Porches one above another bore up with marble Pillars is very magnificent as likewise the Fountaine of the Eagles and the Family of Neptune at the one side that famous Cage of ironworke which is of so vast an extent that it encloseth a wood of Cypresse and other trees The other two are fild with Grottes Orange trees and other variety of delights At the upper part of all stands the statue of Jupiter tonant Within the Pallace the Gardrobe full of rarietyes the Tapestries and precious Furuiture declare greatly the richnesse of that Prince Next to this is the house of Hieronimo del Negro where the excellent Pictures the fall of waters the Fountain the Piscina the Grove and other delightfull departments are well worth seeing On all sides of the City is an infinity of such places of pleasure especially round about the Port which is of a large circuit resembling much the forme of a Theatre enclos'd with faire buildings T is defended by a solid Bulwarke which they call Il Mole that lyes about 2 hundred paces into the Sea rais'd at a very great expence Opposite to that a rocky Promontory casts it selfe forth at the head whereof stands a very lofty Pharos bearing a lanterne of more then an ordinary bignesse to guide Ships in the night Within the Haven is a place where the Gallyes lay every one in a particular Classis As for the City it selfe it is enough to say the Genuesians live in a Kingly luxury and I believe it is the best built and compacted City not onely of Italy but also of Europe The houses generally are very high the streets for the most part its onely fault are somewhat narow so that no Coaches are here admitted which though an inconvenience yet preserves the wayes more cleane and neater I except here that spacious long even and indeed Mistris of streets the Strada Nova which I am confident may be justly preferd before any in Christendome so proud in Architecture so rich in Marbles are the Palaces t is fild with The fairest one belongs to the Duke of Oria. Amongst the publick Edifices the Exchange or Merchants Hall the Dukes Palace with the Armory for 30 thousand men deserv'd our walking to Neither are the Genuesians lesse splendid in adorning their Consecrated places witnesse the mighty quantity of polish't Marble wherewith all the Churches are fild especially San Lorenzo the Dome and Santo Ambrosio belonging to the Jesuites But that which surpasseth all and is of most admiration is the Chappell of the Anunciade begun to bee built not many yeares since at the expence of one Family whose Palace joynes to it yet is of so incredible richnesse for the red and white Marble Pillars and other ornaments that one would imagine the revenues of a whole City could not bee enough to raise so glorious a Worke as that will be when t is finisht Finally the Genuesians to defend this their brave City have encompast it with Walls no lesse commendable for beauty and strength then prodigious for their large extent The people of this Common-wealth are habited all alike somewhat tending towards the Spanish Mode and are of a very austere and superbe humour hardly vouchsafing to look so low as a stranger wherefore having with much satisfaction seene their Flourishing Estate wee left them We set out from Genua in a Filouca about Sun-setting and having sayld all that night about noone the next day we strooke into Porto Venere and after dinner crost the Golfe of Aspecia which is defended with many strong Fortifications to Lerizi This Bourg being the mid way from Genua to Ligourne such is the villany of the watermen in these parts if they get their passengers chiefly strangers hither they will so delay their departure pretending the inconveniences of the weather that by lying still at so great an expence they may bee forc'd to give them their pay and to hire horses for the rest of the way by Land Which trick wee were forc't to suffer patiently after a day and halfes attendance for our boat Hence we tooke Post and having past through the Olive woods over the hills that lay neerest the shoare wee came into a low plaine Countrey which continued so to Ligorne First we past the River Magre then went by Sarazana a good City and last of the dominion of Genua after that we came into the Principality of Massa wherin we past by Lavenza and Carrara where out of the hills they dig great store of Marble and then through Massa it selfe where the Prince resides in Estate Soveraigne The Towne is very pleasant standing in a Territorie fruitfull in Orange trees and other fruits Hence wee came suddenly into Tuscany but quickly left it falling into a woody Country belonging to the State of Lucas and so to Viregio under the same power standing at the mouth of a small river which runnes from Lucques Here we were forc't to lye and the next morning some two mile farther wee past the river that parts the Republique of Lucques from Toscany and so in the morning arriv'd at Pisa Which City was heretofore a great free state of it selfe but at the rising of the family of the Medicis on which line the Dukes of Etruria successively runne this with many other noble cities was reduced to the great Dukes subjection From whom it hath received many Embellisments T is situated in a Marshy land so that the unholesomnesse of the aire renders it scarce of the native people much more of strangers which seldome tarry any longer then to see the rarities of the place Amongst which I preferre that worthy peece of arte the Falling Tower which travellers boast of
Savoyarde and at that end where it looseth it selfe in the Rhodanus stands the City that christens it Geneva where wee arrivd the sixteenth of October the eighth day from the time we sate out of Milan Geneva ancienty head of the Allobroges would bee but an obscure Towne were not Fame her friend Yet is she placed in such a corner of the World that she seemes to lye Geografically in the Center between Germany France and Italy For this reason t is suppos'd Master Calvin began to preach up his Reformation in this City before any other not through any splendour in the place but that some might come from all parts to follow his Doctrine And now by Gods protection I am in no Roman though Catholicke state no Inquisition to lay hold of my words or writings I may set downe that which a Marble Table hath in letters of Gold on the Towne-house at Geneva Thus Post tenebras Lux Quum Anno 1535. profligata Romana Antichristi tyrannide abrogatisque ejus superstitionibus Sacrosancta Christi Religio Hic in suam puritatem Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei beneficio Reposita simul pulsis fugatisque hostibus Vrbs ipsa in suam Libertatem non sine insigni Miraculo restituta fuerit Senatus Populusque Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuae memoriae causa fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit Quo suam erga Deum gratitudinem ad Posteros Testatam fecerit Before their eyes were opened by Master Calvins Sermons The Motto of the Genevists was Post Tenebras spero Lucem since it is alterd to Post Tenebras Lux God will confound great things by small else t is miraculous how those seeds of the Gospell which were first sow'd in this Towne should spread it selfe into many parts of the world Maugre Rome and her adherents This advantage Geneva hath by its situation the better sort speake or understand any of these three Languages French Dutch Italian so that every weeke there are Sermons in them all Amongst the Divines of Geneva Deodatus is their great Patron a great Schollar and a pricking thorne in the Jesuites sides For the Ecclesiasticall Government of Geneva it is Presbyterian such as Calvin instituted For the Politicall I conceive it to depend on Aristocracy Their State excepting some private men hath hardly wealth to subsist yet every Citizen will lay downe his life and meanes for to maintaine their Cause and Liberty They keep contiauall watch and ward and not without reason for their owne territory about the City exceeds not the Lands of many Countrey Gentlemen about their houses The Savoyards very often make suddain Incursions so farre that they shewed us where they once had scal'd the Walls but were repulst Yet if the Duke of Savoye prohibit his Subjects to carry Provisions into Geneva The Genevists presently can sallie forth and take their Cattle or the like by force For there is no Castle neere to counterpoise the strength of Geneva Besides this in cases of necessity they have the three Protestant Cantones to help them with whom they are confederates as this Inscription standing in the Towne house witnesseth D. O. M. S. Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri Libertate Genevae restituta L. Quasi novo Jubilaeo ineunte Plurimis vitatis Domi foris InsidIs superatis Tempestatibus Helvetiorum Primar I Tigurini aequo jure in Societatem perpetuam nobiscum venerint veteres fidissimi Soci Bernenses prius vinculum novo adstrinxerint S. P. Q. G. Quod Felix eSe velit DOM tanti Beneficii Monumentum consecrarunt Anno Temporis Vltimi MDXXCIV There is little remarkable in the City except in the Towne-house there are kept fourteen Urnes which were dug up as they were raising the workes of the City S. Peters Church is their chiefe The houses in Geneva are generally well built but through most of the streets is a Timber worke very offensive to the eye for it hinders the view of the houses neverthelesse t is convenient to keep out raine The greatest Merchandise Geneva sends to other parts is Bookes of all sorts This is the summe of what I tooke notice of in those few dayes I spent at Geneva From thence I made the quickest dispatch I could to Paris and so to my Native home But t is now high time to set my last period to this Itinerary of my Italian voyage FINIS AN APPENDIX ON THE Same Subject FOr the Readers fuller satisfaction and to leave no part of this Empresse of the World undescribed I have here annexed a captiulation of those Places which I casually omitted to see partly collected from my discourse with Italians partly from my converse with forreigne Authors of this nature In my first Digression the City Lucas is most obvious This Republickes dominions lie Promiscuously in those of the Duke of Florence's and containe not above two dayes journey in circuit yet the vigilancy of the State under his Catholike Majesties Protection defends their Liberties against all Opposers To maintaine their freedome more powerfully the Luchesi have reduc't this City to that strength as few in Italy can equall it It stands on a flat some few miles distant from a Branch of the Appenines The compasse is but small as Places of most hard accesse alwaies are the whole not exceeding three mile which is inclos'd and fenc't with gallant Walls and eleven Bulwarkes There is little observable within the City except the Pallace Counsell-Hall Arcenall and in the Dome the Volto Santo which pardon the tradition was set miraculously on an Image of our Saviour carv'd by Nicodemus his Disciple whilst the Artist was surmizing after what forme to expresse that sacred face The Inhabitants are very affable to strangers as I have been informd so that some chuse to stay there and their Language is much consonant with the Sanesian The Territory of Luca by the Country mans industry abounds in fruits Olives especially which are famous here with us Out of Luca towards Pistoia in the high way there runnes a Rivolet of salt Water and from the same Source as is imagind issue those Renowned Bathes to goe to which from Luca one passeth over the River Serchio upon two Bridges of admirable Structure Advancing towards Rome t is worth stepping out of the way to Perugia and Orvietta Both under the Patrimony of Saint Peter The first Perugia gives Denomination to the Lacus Thrasimenus though six miles distant Here precisely was fought that memorable Battell Between Hanniball and the Romans the latter routed Perusia stands on a high hill hath but poore Walls the Citadell well fortified the Fountaine the Popes Pallace and the Schooles deserve seeing yet I heard of nothing more remarkable there then the delicious muscatelle Wine Orvietta is a great Towne on a Mountaine too There is in this City one most singular Piece to satisfie Curiosity and that is the Well made so
and not undeservedly as one of the most mervellous things they see in the voyage of Italy T is cover'd round with galleries 7. rowes one above another of Marble Pillars so that 't is hard to bee imagin'd by what engines so great a structure should be supported it being built so declining to one side that all men which regard it at the first expect its fall Hard by is the Dome or Cathedrall Church of Pisa where threescore Pillars testifie as well its Antiquity as the Gates of Brasse its rarity Joyning to this is the Campo Santo or Cimetiere firm'd in with a wall of Marble and much resembles a Cloyster in the midst is the Church yard from whence the place hath its denomination that implies the holy Field because halfe the ground was brought from Jerusalem and it hath a particular propriety that all bodies which are buried there are consum'd within the space of 40. houres Here are likewise reserv'd many Ancient Urnes which with the story of the Old and New Testament painted of old worke make the place very venerable Hard by is the Baptistary or San Giovanni wherein the Font and pulpit leaning on foure Lyons will for the preciousnesse of the stone yield to no other in Italie Leaving the Area where these things stand together a little more into the towne is the Chappell and Palace of the Knights of the Order of St. Stephen the Frontespiece of the Chappell is of Marble neatly pollish't The inside is adorn'd with the truest Ensignes of Valour I meane Trophees taken from the common enemies of Christianity the Turkes Before their Palace is the statue of the great Duke Cosmus with a Fountain This Dignity of Knighthood is much like to that of Malta both to maintain Christs cause against the Mahometans yet these may marrie the others I conceive may not These weare a red Crosse for their badge in this fashion ✚ From hence we walk't to the Physitians garden which is more for use then delight although there be good walks water-works that well washt us yet for the most 't is cover'd with simples outlandish Plants and the like Joyning to it is a gallery very commodious for Medecinall things it abounding with all curiosities of Nature as forreign creatures Stones Mineralls and whatsoever strange the farthest Indies produce In generall this City stands so opportunely as few like for the receiving of all forreign Wares In the midst thereof runnes the river Arno from thence to its Embuschment navigable for very great Vessels so that here is a place where the Duke builds his Gallies On one side of the river is a faire street cald Longarno where is the great Dukes Palace and before it the statue of Ferdinand the third On the other side is the Exchange little but of Marble then which nothing more common in Italy In a word 't is prayse enough to say t is the third City under the great Duke who I thinke hath the fairest of what Prince soever Having taken a satisfactory view hereof we went on our way to Ligourne whither there is an hourely convenience of a Coach to transport Merchandise from Ligorne to Pisa the Duke hath made an artificiall Channell of 15. miles long which bares small boates like to Venetian Gondoloes The Escluse of which Channell we saw at our setting forth out of Pisa cover'd for 250. paces The most part of the way to Ligorne is through Fennes till one enters into the great Dukes Forrest which continues to the towne Ligorne the only maritimate place of importance under the Great Duke is situated in a plaine at the board of the Mediterranean Sea t is but little yet the great concurse of Merchants which flow thither from all Nations chiefly from my one make it more spoken of than many Cities of a larger extent 'T is an innumerable summe of money the Duke receives yearly from this small Port wherefore his Predecessors with him have omitted nothing to make it strong witnesse the royall Bastions and mote wherewith t is fenct The great Port where the Ships lay at Anchor is defended by the Mole and about hath many fanalls The Darcina where the Gallies then but six in number lay as quiet as in a Chamber is most exquisitely well contriv'd Before stands that best of moderne Statues the Duke Ferdinand in Marble and the Colosses of foure slaves under him in brasse in divers Postures so lively represented that if the Statuary could have fram'd a voice as well as those bodies he might have conquerd nature Besides this piece there are no more curiosities in this towne yet many conveniences The streets are generally large the houses low but uniforme unlesse some which have been put out of order by an Earthquake to which this place is often Subject The great place is very beautifull and fit for the assemblies of Merchants On the houses round about and in the fairest streets are pictur'd all the battels and victories of the great Dukes gallies obtained over the Turks which a slave did to gaine his redemption The Jewes which are here in great number have the fairest Synagogue I ever yet saw wherin on a saturday their Sabbaoth we saw the manner of their divine if so I may call it service Their priviledges here are more then ordinary they wearing no marke of distinction as in other Townes so that here the wealthier and richer sort are of that Sect. The Greeks likewise have a Congregation and Church here In a word Ligorne is compacted of forreigners yet the unwholsomenesse of the aire banisheth a great part from thence which I by dangerous experience found true for the day before I was to depart for Florence having all the while I stayed at Ligorne found a strange alteration of the aire different both from that of England and France I was ill dispos'd to sicknesse however not so much but that I adventur'd on my journey which though with much difficulty I perfected The first night we lay at Pisa which way we had formerly past The next morning we tooke Coach a very unpleasant passage over hilly way and past first by S. Roman a Convent of the Observantins standing on high from whence is a pleasant prospect downe the valley from thence we came to Empoly a neat little towne where we lay and the next day towards noone arrived at Florence Which for its singular excellencies amongst all other Cities of Italy is cal'd {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} the Faire Florence the Capitall of Toscany and seat of the great Duke is scituated at the bottome of very high hills environ'd on all sides with the same excepting towards the West side before which lies a plaine Countrey vulgo Pianura di Fiorenza This City is divided in two by the river Arno over which are built foure Bridges of stone upon one of the two chief is the Goldsmiths street upon the other of very stately structure stand the foure quarters of
to a horse there buried which had done him good service in the siege of the City The Epitaph runs thus Non ingratus Herus sonipes Memorande sepulchrum Hoc tibi pro meritis haec monumenta dedit Least I should dwell too long amongst these earthly delights wherewith Florence is fil'd I will goe and meditate in the Churches and first in the Dome which I conceive either for the exquisitenesse of the worke or worth of so vast a Bulke of Red Black and white Marble to be the fairest Cathedrall without that ever man laid eyes on It s better part is the Cupola so high that the brasse Globe at the top is capable of holding sixteen persons No lesse wonderfull is the Steeple which without exempt will yield to no other in the world composed of the same stone and materialls with the Church but with more art and ornaments Before the Dome is the Temple of Mars built in an Octogon now cald S. John or the Baptistary The foure gates of Brasse vvhich Ortelius prefers before any else in the world the broken Pillars of Porphyre the pavement the old Grecian Pieces at the top are things to be noted From hence wee went to see that mirrour of Art and wonder of this present age Saint Laurents Chappell which is so glorious that whosoever enters will even imagine himselfe in some place above terrestriall 'T is wholly overlaid with fine Pollisht stones neither is any colour upon Earth but it is there in stones naturally all which I have been since told by diverse an argument of the great riches included in the Bowells of Italy are dugg up within the great Dukes dominions Round about this Chappell are all the scutions of the townes under the great Duke in their proper Colours of stone Above are Niches for the statues of the great Dukes Beside them their Urnes The intent of this whole sumptious Fabrick being that it should successively serve for the Sepulcher of the great Dukes Saint Laurents Church and Convent joyne to this where the Library fild with Bookes all in Manuscripts is not contemptible Not farre from hence is Santa Maria Novella in the Court are two Marble Pyramids that stand on brasse Turtoises Hard by is S. Maries Church belonging to the Jacobins where on the North wall is the Tombe of Picus Mirandola an eminent schollar with this Epitaph Joannes jacet hic Mirandola caetera morunt Et Tagus è Ganges forsan Antipodes In the same Church is Politianus his Tombe subscribed thus Politianus in hoc tumulo jacet Angelus unum Qui caput linguas res nova tres habuit From hence I went to the Anunciade and saw in the way the Fountaine of the Centaure The Anunciade is a place of great devotion to a Madonna drawne by the hand of Saint Luke In the Piazza before is the statue of the Duke Ferdinand the first on horseback in brasse made by the same hand with the former above mentioned so that there is little difference betwixt them Hard by are kept the Lions and other wilde beasts and a little farther the Menage or Stables of the great Duke stord with Barbary and other excellent horses and as I remember I never saw better horse then at Florence On the wall of the Cavalrizza is this Inscription Franciscus Medices Magnus Etruscor Dux 11. Quod Nobilissimorum Adolescentium qui equestri splendore se ornari cupiunt Imprimisque Joannis fratris commodo fiere◠hunc in Equo se exercendi Locum extrui jussit Rustico Picardino Equorum Magistro M DLXXXVI Next to these though much distance Santa Croce deserves seeing Before it is a faire spatious Court in which it being Carnavall time while wee were at Florence we saw the play at Calce with Cavalcades shewes and other assemblies of the Nobility Within the Church is the tombe of that famous Statuary Picturer and Architecture Michael Angelo made by his owne hand Over his Urne stand those three arts hee was so renowned for with their instruments broken bewailing the losse of their Patron underneath this Inscription Michaeli Angelo Bonerotio Evetusta Simoniorū familia Sculptori Pictori Architecto Fama Omnibus notissimo Leonardus Patruo amantiss de se optime meritro Translatis Roma ejus ossibus atque in hoc templo Major suorum Sepulchro conditis cohortante Serenissimo Med Magno Hetruriae Duce P. 6. An. Sal M DLXX. Vixit ann. LXXXVIII M. XI D. XV To conclude my description of Florence the houses are high built the streets pav'd with great stones even and long many Fountaines and other publick ornaments declaring the magnificence of the great Dukes For eight mile round about the City there seemes another Florence so full are the fields speckled with Country seats Neither are those delights to private men alone but there are likewise publike walkes witnesse that of Pines two mile long that of Cypresses leading to Poggio Imperiale and many more Two miles up into the Northerne Mountaines lies the old Fesuli often spoke of amongst the ancient Writers but now a poore Village not having so much as the remnants of Antiquity In fine there is no Province in Italy more furnish't with delightfull and well peopled Cities then that of the great Duke whose Ancestours having united the States of three Common-wealths together to wit Of Pisa Florence and Siena doth now entirely possesse all Toscany the nobler part of Italy The wife of this present Great Duke Ferdinand the second of that name comes from the Duke of Vrbin of the family of Rovori The Revenues of this Prince of Toscany exceeed yearly ten hundred thousand Crownes which will amount to a hundred thousand pound English his ordinary guard is of Cavalry and Infantry with Germans very well equipag'd The Florentins have commonly notable head pieces so that from hence spring notable Polititians and States-men Machevil was of them and 't is said that three Embassadours from severall Kings meeting accidentally on the way prov'd in the conclusion to be all Florentins So soone as we had fill'd our selves with the sight of those many singularities that are in and about Florence wee set forward for Siena Going out of Florence at the Porta Romana one leaves Poggio Imperiale a Villa of the great Dukes which I had omitted above At the entrance of the walkes of Cypres that leads to it are the statues of the Tybre and Arno those of the famous old and new Poets Virgil Ovid Petrarche and Dante The house swarmes with rarities chiefly with excellent Pictures amongst them all the line of Austria this great Dukes mother who built this house being sister to the Emperour After wee had past by that wee lay that night at a little Bourg call'd Santo Cassiano The next morning wee rode through a Village Barbarino from whence the mighty stirring family of the Cardinalls tooke their originall Wee din'd at Poggio Bonci a place noted for the perfumd Tobacco compos'd there which
the Italians through custome take in powder as profusely as we in England doe in the pipe From hence in the afternoone we arriv'd at Siena Siena formerly a free State of it self now subject to the Duke of Florence stands aloft covering the back of a hill so that in the hottest time of the yeare this City is still refresht by coole gailes of winde The ayre is very wholsome much agreeing with the constitution of strangers the Inhabitants very curteous a great deale suiting to the humours of forreigners and besides the purity of the Italian Language is here profest and spoken these and the like conveniences make it much frequented by Travellers and indeed mov'd us to settle our selves there for some Moneths Here wee stayd not to see the rarities of the Place which are not many in number but to get some knowledge and practise in the Vulgar Tongue however Siena deserves a better description then my pen can afford it for neatnesse and gentility yielding to no other in Italy At the entrance of the Porta Camulia or di Fiorenza onely the higher buildings are in view but out of the Porta Romans the City seemes to raise it selfe with a great deale of Majesty chiefly because of the many Towers it hath which during the time of its Liberty were rais'd in honour of such and such men as had done any worthy service for the Common-wealth amongst these Towers which stand yet as signes of its formerly possest Freedome that of Mangio surpasseth for height which though its foundations be in the Bottome of the Piazza yet outtops all the City besides It serves now for the Clock-house From above is a faire prospect even to the confines of Toscany below at the foot of this hidious Structure is a Chappell of Marble where on set dayes Masse is said to the People in publick To this joynes the Senate house built by the Goths as some conceive by the manner of the Architecture At one end thereof stands a Pillar bearing Romulus and Remus sucking the Wolfe in brasse which are the Armes of Siena an infallible argument of its Antiquity and certainly dirived from the Romans of whom this City was a Colony There are frequently more of the like pillars about the Town upon one more decayed then the rest is ingraved-Memores Huberum old very old Latine As for the Piazza which lies in the heart of the City I cannot fancie a more pleasing or commodious Place t is of a large Compasse resembling whether naturally so or artificially made so I know not the fashion of a Cockle shell in the midst is a Marble Fountaine of curious worke wherein out of the Wolves mouthes comes water This place is pav'd with the same materiall as all the streets of the City are to wit Brick so that here and indeed throughout all Siena in the fowlest weather one may walke as cleane as within dores The houses are for the most part Brick built alla Moderna the chiefest is that of the Pope and the Arch bishops who is of the family of the Picolominys In the Strada larga lives the Prince Matthias the Duke of Florence's Brother a man very courteous to strangers Close by his Palace is the Dome or Cathedrall Church of Sienna which though in comparison of others in Italy is but small yet for the great travell and expence which it must needs have cost t is inferiour to none t is both without and within of Black and white Marble The Facade is admirable garnisht with statues About the inside are the heads of all the Popes The Pulpet is an unparalelld piece beset with figures of Marble But that singularity which this Temple boasts of above all others is the pavement whereon many parts of the sacred history are so lively represented in severall colours of Marble as no pensill can come neere it though many Masters take patterne from those stones Going up to the high Altar at the left hand is the Library painted by Raphel d' Vrbino On the same side is a Chappell wherein is kept the arme of S. John Baptist which as an Inscription there manifesteth was given to a Pope by the King of Peloponesus Opposite to the Dome is the Hospitall whither all Pilgrimmes in their passage to Rome may come and take two or three meales gratis In the Chappell lyes the body of their founder B. Susorius as yet uncorrupted though nine hundred yeares since he dyed Going downe the Hill from the Hospitall one comes to the Ponte Brande which is a reservitoire of Fish not so much for the publick use as delight or pastime Hard by is the House where Santa Catharina of Siena liv'd which though a place of speciall devotion yet not so frequented as the Madonna di Provenzana From hence going up the hill by the Dominicans one sees the Fortification the onely defence of the City and there by the Cavalrizza whither in the sommer all the Gentry retire a Spasso The walls of Siena are of an exceeding compasse yet but slight coverd with Caper trees that fruit growing best in that Soyle to wit Morter The Country about Sienna principally towards the Maremmas or Marshes is filld with all sorts of great Chase so that wilde Boare and other venison in its season is sold in the Butchers shops as commonly as other flesh In a word I found Sienna the most commodious place a stranger could pick out to live retiredly and make his time beneficiall Where after two moneths stay having made some little progresse in the language the time of Easter occasionly urging together with good company and the holy week we set on for Rome About ten miles from Siena one goeth over a Bridge whereupon is the Prince Matthias his armes with this Inscription Viator securus incede Vt expedita tibi ad Vrbem per Hertruriam pateret via triplicem fluvium Assum Vmbronem Vrcium triplici poute subegit Matthias Seress Hetruriae princeps Publicae securitatis vindex invictus heros nec ipsam aquarum licentiam errare patitur sine jugo Afterwards we past through Buon Convento where the Emperour Henry the seventh dy'd by poyson given him in the Eucharist Din'd at Tornieri In the afternoone past a faire Bridge leaving at the right Mont Alcino auciently Mons Ilicinus noted for the Muscatello it produceth past through San Querico Lay at the next Post The next day about twelve miles from Santo Querico wee past by Radicofany the last Fortification of the great Dukes Dominions situated on a steep rocky mountaine beneath it is the Bourg and a little lower one of the greatest Hosteries or Innes in the way to Rome That very high Mountaine which the vallie parts from that of Radicofany now cal'd Montamiata was Tuniatus mentiond by Cato and Antonius From Radicofany we went to Centino din'd there in the confines of Toscany In the afternoone went over a faire bridge of Brick built by Gregory the thirteenth Upon it a
Piazza this Pallace was erected which is built of square stone and all things answerable to a Kingly Grandezza At the right hand are those Gardens which they call the secret in which there are sixteen huge Lavers of Marble that cast forth Chrystalline water in the midst of these stands a Janus Quadrifrons higher then those which makes foure more fountaines that resemble Looking Glasses At the left there 's a sumptuous Place for all manner of Exercises or Turnaments The Facciata or Front hath between the Windowes many ancient Statues and so the first Porch with most ample steps in the ascent to the Palace Before this there 's a most glorious Fountaine with the Statue of Leda And foure vast and most delicious gardens in view Passing down the steps which have Piles of Water on both sides amongst the Groves there 's these Fountaines of Tethys Esculapius Arethusa Pandora Pomona and Flora Afterwards there 's the stately Pegasus in Pamossa The two Colosses of the Sybilla Tyburtina and Melicerta The Cupids powring water out of their Flaskes are most ingenious next there are some Urnes upon which stand ten Nymphes and in the midst the Caves of the Sybilla Tiburtina and Diana Goddesse of the Woods Both aadornd with fountaines statues Roots of Corall Mother of Pearle and pav'd with Mosaick worke On the other side of the Garden sets Rome triumphant in the midst of her most Memorable Fabricks as the Pantheon Capitoll Cirques Theatres Amphitheatres Obelisques Mausoleos Archs Triumphall Pyramids Aquiducts Porticos Thermas and the like Neither is the River Tyber wanting for out of the Wolfe and Twinnes gusheth a Rivolet proportionable to that Representative City In the next garden there 's the Vccellario where amonst the Branches of Trees Artificiall Birds move their Wings and sing sweetly on a sudden an Owle appears and they change their Melody into a chattering admiration Not farre from thence is the Fountaine of Dragons which vomit forth the water with a most horrid Noyse The Grotte of Nature where the Organs play most harmoniously by the motion of Water In the garden that followes are diverse Lakelike conservatories of Fish with Swans here the Mete Sudanti the Ocean with Neptune in his Charriot on Sea Horse are most stupenduous In the last the Triton and thousand exotick Plants are to bee seen Tyr'd with these Master-Pieces of Art wee went to that Naturall Cascata or Cataract at Tivoli which is made by the precipitious fall of the River Anien from the Mountaines it rusheth downe with that Fury that there is still a thick mist over it and by the Reflexion of the Sun ariseth a perfect Rainbow Pliny mentioneth this River to have that Innate Quality to Petrifie the ground it passeth through or any thing that lies long in it The Sulphurious streame I above mention'd flowes from this Neere to this is an old Temple some say of Hercules others adjudge it to the Sibylla Tyburtina or Albunea and the more propable for Tivoli was anciently Tybur Horace and many of the Roman Magnates had their Villas here of which they shew their Ruines as likewise the Sybilles Cave Returning for Rome one may discerne Preneste and a little out of the way on the left stands a huge moles of Antiquity the Villa Hadriana the heap rather of a City then a House t is reported hee had there the most eminent buildings of the World taken from the Originalls but Jam seges est ubi Troja fuit I have been long in the Transaction of these things in and about Rome and now end somewhat abruptly the diversity of things makes my memory treacherous I can onely say Roma Capo e Compendio del Mondo A cui non e cosa simile ne seconda Rome of the world Compendium and Head Admits no like nor can be seconded The heats growing on at Rome wee left it to set up our station for the Summer at Sienna and having already seen Caprarola wee went with the Procacccio so that passing to Viterbo by the Strada Nuova wee saw some remnants of the Via Cassia with Soutry where Orlando Furioso was borne and the ruines of Gharlemaines Pallace At the great Inne at Radicofany wee met the Marquis de Fontenay the French Embassadour in his voyage to Rome A week after our arrive at Sienna was an Opera represented on the new Theatre of Prince Matthias with severall changes of Sceanes as a Garden Sea Pallace and other Machines at which the Italians are spoke to be excellent All the time of our stay at Sienna I fild my bookes more with observations of the Language then of the people City or Country Onely the diversity of fruits which are every day brought to Market and sold at a low rate argues much the fertility of Italy as well as the great quantity of silke it produceth and therefore deservedly cald Bombycina In June was the silke Harvest If I may so call it and there was such abundance that in England I never saw so much Woole as I did here Silke The ninth of July the Sanesians solemnizd a feast but sore against their wills for Cosmus the Duke of Florence's taking Sienna In August on the feast of the Assumption of the Virgin was a Race of Barbaries which ran without Riders from one gate of the City to the Princes Pallace for a Pallium of Cloath of Gold The same Moneth wee went to the Jewes Synagogue and saw the Circumcising of a Child Which the sacred Page describes September the seventh wee set from Siena to begin our returne towards France our first dayes journey reacht to Florence where tarrying one day the next wee parted with the Procaccio for Venice paying seven Crownes a man Six miles up the Apennin we past by Pratolin a famous seat of Pleasance belonging to the great Duke and about as many miles farther wee dind at Il Ponte before which lies a most delicious Valley environd with very high mountaines After dinner about two miles farther wee past through Scarperia from whence we mounted more and more up the Apennins The way in some places but streight on the right hand is a very steep Precipes down to the plaine below All that afternoon we rode up and down hills which are as much fruitfull as barren and at night we lodgd at Fiorenzuolo a Fortresse which stands in the midst of the Mountaines at the confiues of the great Dukes Territoire The next morning departing long before break of day as the Procaccios in Italy usually doe we perfectly discernd the flame of Pietra Mala a Mountaine at the highest part of the Appinines which perpetually burnes All that forenoone wee had a tedious passage through the Chesnut woods till wee came unto Pianora where having dind by a suddain descent passing a Torrent divers times wee sâ—nk into the fertile and pleasant plaine of Bolonia and so to the City it selfe where we prevaild with our Conductor to stay the rest of that day and
halfe the following that wee might take a more full view of this famous City of Bolonia the second in the Stato della Chiesa It is situated at the foot of the Appenins the neighbouring Countrey producing so great abundance of things necessarie to humane life that it hath got the name Bolonia the Fat For strength it is not much considerable there being but a single wall without Bulwarks Ramparts or the like T is a fiter habitation for the Muses then for Mars the fame of that University which flourisheth there making this Motto common BOLONIA DOCET Amongst the things I tooke notice of at Bolonia the first is the generall uniformity in the buildings there running before all the houses a very stately Cloyster with Arches all of the same structure so that a large street appeares one building which manner though it differ from the ordinary Italian way yet is no lesse admirable Amongst other faire edefices of this City the Popes Pallace very spacious is chiefe over the Gate is the statue of a Pope in mettall Before this Pallace is the Piazza as remakable as most in Italy In the midst stands a very sumptuous Fountaine where the Brasen Neptune made by John of Bolonia a famous Sculpturer is very considerable at one end of this Place is the Dome not yet finisht The great Schooles are said to be as stately as most in Europe And likewise the Hospitalls are worth seeing The Convents at Bolonia are generally very glorious especially S. Dominick and out of the Town S. Michael in Bosco In briefe the Bolonians agree with the other Italians in having their houses built decently and in their Courts still have some Verts set as Orange trees Cypresses or the like which much pleaseth the eye of a stranger as he passeth the streets In the heart of the City stands the Tower of the Asinelli cald so from a Family that rai'sd it some making Bolonia to represent the forme of a ship set this for the maine Mast It is growne somewhat to decay through time and the staires are very rotten however wee adventurd to goe up to the top and from thence wee had a full view of the Towne below with the streets lying in a straight line as likewise a faire Prospect on the plaines of Lombardy On one side of this Tower is another cald Garisenda which seemes to fall much after the manner of the Campanile at Pisa some impute it to the Architecture others say it was of the same height with that of the Asinelli but the Citizens fearing it would fall pull'd downe the upper part and left the rest standing crooked as at the present it doth This is the summe of what I saw in Bolonia yet berore I went from thence I tooke a taste of those famous Saltsages that are compos'd at Bolonia the which are transported thence not onely into other places of Italy but also into diverse parts of Europe as a rare and costly dish which addes and maintaines her Epithite Bolonia La Grassa Leaving Bolonia for our more free entrance into the State of Venice wee tooke a Bill of Health The first day we past the Canall that goes to Ferrara having our boate drawne by a Horse in which way we went through about nine Sustegne Machines not much unlike our Sluses to keep up and let down the water for the turning of all sorts of Milles and the passage of Boates Towards Evening wee past by Bentivoglio a Castle that gave denomination to the learned Cardinall of that name Some two houres later wee came to Mal Albergo an infamous Inne both in name and in deed where having poorely supt wee imbarqu't in another lesse Boate and having past all night through the fennes The next morning we arriv'd at Ferrara Ferrara heretofore a Dutchy by it selfe yet now subject to the Apostolique See is more considerable for strength then beauty however it is in Italy and therefore secundum nos no meane City It s scituation is on a plat so that by it runnes two Channels the one towards Bolonia the other towards the Po it is fortified with very faire Ramparts upon most of which are planted Allies of trees Within the Towne are some faire buildings as the Palazzo del Diamante belonging to the Duke of Modena the Castle where in the Court are pictur'd the Dukes of Ferrara and t is said that at the last there was no Roome left for another Before the Pallace are two small Statues of a Marquis and Duke of Ferrara many other things are observable as the Epitaph of the famous Poet Ariostus and of many other famous men buried there which my short stay would not admit me to collect Our Inne was the Angelo a too sumptuous edifice to have been made a Taverne where having dind wee went by boat downe the Channell and about three mile beyond Ferrara came into the Po which is the greatest and farthest navigable river in Italy for breadth and length much above Tyber it selfe the ancients cald it Padus the Poets Erydanus on the Bankes whereof they feignd that Io transformd into a heifer was want to feed About evening wee came on the confines of the Venetian territoire and supt at Corbua a place three miles distant from that most ancient yet now dejected City Adria which formerly gave the name of Mare Adriaticum to the Sea now cald the Golfe of Venice Three miles farther wee changd our Barke for a bigger Vessell to carrie us to Venice and having now past thirty miles on the Po we came suddenly by an artificiall cut into the River Adice Athesis in Latin that passeth by Verona and the next morning about the opening of the day wee enterd into the Golfe passing by Chioza a City in an Island on the left Palestina on the right with other Islands that lay rang'd in a row to Venice it selfe where wee arriv'd the twelfth of September and being come to the Port wee as the custome and order is were not permitted to set foot on shoare on paine of death till wee had a ticket of licence Venetia is a word never heard of in the Romans dayes the originall of this name being not above thirteen Centuries of yeares since yet Historians generally report that at the decay of the Roman Empire when the invasion of the Hunns and other Barbarous Nations overspread Italy Some provident Fishermen began to build Cottages in those scatterd Islands and in processe of time others for their better security retyr'd thither From this poore and low beginning imitating her elder sister is shee growne to that height that all deservedly call her Venice the rich This very mirrour of State and Policy as shee was borne about the death of old Rome so shee seemes ro bee hereditarily Possessour of that which maintaind Rome in her soveraigne glory The magnificent Genius of the People the Gravity of the Senate the solidity of her lawes very much consonant with those of Rome
the Embushment of the Lago di Garda into that of Mantua The greater part of the afternoone wee past by the side of the Lake which by the Ancients ws cald Benaca From Peschiera it extends it selfe towards the North five and thirty miles T is very rough and tempestuous as Virgil saith Fluctibus fremitu assurgens Benaca marino Which I believe proceeds from its enclosure between mountaines which stop up the winde yet being fenct so with Alpes which keep of the Northerne blasts and warmd by the reflection of the Sunne those hills produce great store of Olive Citron and Orange trees The Lake abounds with fish especially with Troutes equall to them of the Lake of Geneva which wee tasted of that night at supper at Lunato In the midst of the Lago di Garda is an Island wherein stands Sermonea The next day wee had very bad Coach way yet at dinner time wee were at Brescia where because of bad weather wee tarried that day Brescia by the Romans Brixia may be cald the Venetians Magazine here is a perpetuall appearance of Warre though they live in peace every shop is stord with Armes In a word the chiefe traffick of this place are Swords Muskets and other military Engines from whence t is vulgarly cald Brescia the Armed It hath a plaine on all sides excepting towards the Castle which stands on Hill behinde which are very high Mountaines By reason of this vicinity to the Hills the City is beautified with many Fountaines a commodity which few of the Cities in Lombardy have In some of the streets there runnes Porches whereby one may walke drye in rainy weather The Torre della Pallada is of rare Tuscan structure the Piazza is but little yet the Towne house may be reckoned amongst the fairest of Italy The Dome was a repairing when I was there In that is kept a skie colour Crosse which they hold to be the same which appeard to Constantin There is little observable onely some Churches at Brescia which we left the next morning and dind at Vrsa Vecchio after dinner wee past by Vrsi Novi a strong Garrison in the Venetian Frontiers that way A little farther having past the river Oglio we went by Soncino the first place where wee saw the Armes of Spaine over the Gates a signe wee were come into the State of Milan but wee soone were out of it again for that night wee lay at Crema which is under the Signory of Venice It stands in a plaine very well fortified with Ramparts and a Mote The Dome the Tower the Place and the Podestas Pallace are worth seeing The next morning foure miles beyond Crema wee enterd into the State of Milan and past by Lodi a great City on the side of the River Ada this City is famous for the cheeses made there which are not much different from the Parmisano Lodi was cald by the Romans Laus Pompeia From Lodi wee went to dinner at Marignano ten miles from Milan All which way the Countrey is more Garden-like then in any part of Lombardy the high wayes are as streight as one can imagine on both sides runne Channells of water on both sides trees planted and in the fields there is Corne Wine Fruits and Medowes altogether till wee came to the very gates of Milan Milan for the mighty circuit of her walls the great number of Churches is before any other City in Italy said to be the Great The Metropolis of either France or England either Paris or London goe much beyond it for bignesse yet they must be lookt on as Heads of Kingdomes this as the Capitall of a Dutchy or Province besides their chiefest greatnesse is in their Suburbs Milan hath none at all but lies within a stately wall of ten miles compassc T is plac't in a wide plaine and hath about it green Hills delightfull Medowes Navigable Rivers and enjoyeth a wholsome Ayre the territory doth so well furnish it with all necessary provisions that t is worth a dayes journey onely to see the Market of Milan Neither doth it want Trade to support it in a flourishing condition for t is so throngd with Artisans of all sorts that the vulgar Proverb goes Chi volesse Rassettare Italia rouinarebbe Milano For the Antiquity of this place Mediolanum its ancient appellation speakes it old and some pieces of Roman edefices yet standing there confirme the same Before San Lorenzo's Church stand sixteene Marble Pillars a a remnant of the Temple of Hercules at one end of them is this Inscription put in Imp Caesari L. Aurelio vero Aug Arminiaco Medico Parthico Max Trib Pot VII IMP IIII Cos. III PP Divi Antonini Pii Divi Hadriani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici ProNepoti Divi Nervae Abnepoti DEC DEC Since Milan shooke off Paganisme to imbrace the faith of Christ that glorious Pillar of the Church Saint Ambrose was her Bishop To whom there is a Church dedicated vulgo Sanct ' Ambrogio Under the high Altar supported by foure Porphyre Pillars is interred the body of Saint Ambrose t is beleev'd that Saint Ambrose stood at the gates of this Church when he excommunicated Theodosius the Emperour and would not suffer him to enter therein Hard by is a poore Chappell in a blinde corner with a Well where Saint Ambrose baptiz'd Saint Augustine and began the Te Deum as the Inscription on the wall witnesseth Hic Beatus Ambrosius baptisat Augustinum Deodatum Alippum Hic Beatus Ambrosius incipit Te Deum laudamus Augustinus sequitur Te Dominum Confitemur This place is so meane and so little regarded that t is very probably true for t is incredible how the name of Carolus Baromaeus a Councell of Trent Saint highly cryd up at Milan hath extinguisht the memory of that learned Father In S. Eustorgios Church is to be seen the Sepulcher wherein lay the bodies of the three Magi the bodies were transported to Colen in Germany but there remaies the Tombe in this forme SEPVLCHRVM TRIVM MAGORVM Most of the Churches in Milan deserve the eye of the curions yet all may bee included in the Dome or Cathedrall for the Fabrick the most like ours of any I saw in Italy yet for the materialls more costly T is all of white Marble and about it are five hundred Statues of the same The Addition that is now in building is very glorious especially for the huge Pillars of Granito a sort of Marble very common at Milan About the body of the Church are set up pictures of the miracles wrought by Saint Charles Barromee And in a Chappell under Ground is devoutly worshipt the body of that new founded Saint with a Treasure of rich presents As these divine buildings are glorious so the private mens houses of Milan are not inferiour to those of other Cities in Italy The streets are of a more then common breadth and there are very many gardens within the walls The fairest Pallace in