Penbroke Tenby Hereford West with the goodly and many branched Hauen of Milford called in Welsh Aberdangledhett S. Dauids or Meneuiâ— which is the chiefest See in Wales Fiscard called Aberwayn and Newport named Tresdreth 18 The third part was Caermarden-shire which is a Country accounted the strongest part of all South-Wales as that which is full of high Mountaines great Woods and faire Riuers 19 The fourth called Morganwe now Glamorgan-shire hath on the South the Seuerne Sea which diuideth it from Deuonshire and Cornewall vpon the West and North-west Carmarden-shire vpon the North-east Breckneck-shire and vpon the East Monmouth-shire 20 The fift now called Gwent and in Monmouth-shire hath in it the ancient Citie of Caerlbeon vpon Vske There are also diuers Townes and Castles Chepstow Glynstrygul Râ—s Tynterne vpon the Riuer Wye c. This is a faire and fertile Country It hath on the West Glamorgan and Brecknock-shires vpon the North Hereford-shire vpon the East Glocester-shire with the Riuer Wye and the Riuer Seuerne vpon the South and South-east 21 The last is Brecknock-shire for the most part full of Mountaines Woods and Riuers This Country is both great and large being full of faire plaines and vallyes for Corne it hath plentie of the thicke Woods Forrests and Parkes It is full also of cleere and deepe Riuers of which Seuerne is the chiefest although there be other faire Riuers as Vske and the like 22 Thus farre concerning the ancient Welsh diuision by Talaiths but the present diuision distributeth them more compendiously into two Countries and twelue Shires enacted so by Parlament vnder King Henry the eight The Countries are North-Wales and South-Wales which haue shared and as it were deuoured betweene them all Powysland each of which Countries containes sixe Shires North-Wales Anglesey Caâ—â—â—aruon Merionyth Denbigh Flint Montgomery South-Wales Caerdigan Pembroke Carmarden Glamorgan Brecknocks Radnâ—r PEMBROKE-SHIRE CHAPTER II. PEMBROKE-SHIRE the furthest Promontory of all West-Wales lieth parted on the North from Cardigan-shire with the Riuers Tyâ—y and Keach and on the East is confronted by Caermarden-shire the South and West shooting farre into the Irish Seas is with the same altogether washed 2 The forme thereof is longer then it is broad for from S 〈◊〉 South-point to Cardigan-bridge in the North are twentie-sixe miles the Easterne Landenie to S. Dauids point in the West are twentie miles the whole in circumference is nintie three miles 3 The Aire is passing temperate by the report of Giraldus who confirmeth his reason from the site of Ireland against which it butteth and so neere adioyned that King Rufus thought it possible to make a Bridge of his Shippes ouer the Sea whereby he might passe to Ireland on foot 4 Anciently it was possessed by the Demetia further branched into Cardigan and Caermarden-shires as in that County hath beene said and in the Saxons Conquest and Heptarchte by the Britaine 's forced into those parts for refuge whither Henry the first and third of the Normans King sent certaine Flemings whose Country was ouer-whelmed with the breaking 〈◊〉 of the Seas to inhabite the maritine Tract called Rosse lying West vpon the Riuer Dougledye Thess Dutchmen saith Giraldus were a strong and stout Nation inured to Warres and accustomed to seeke gaine by Clothing Traffique and Tillage and euer readie for the Field to fight it out adding withall that they were most loyall to the English and most faithfull to the English-men Whereupon Malmesbury writeth thus Many a time did King William Rufus assaile the Welsh but euer in vaine which is to be wondred at considering his other fortunate successe But saith he it may be the vneuennesse of the ground and sharpnesse of the aire that maintained their courage and impeached his valour which to redresse King Henry his brother found meanes for those Flemings who in regard of his mothers kindred by the fathers side sorely pestred and endammaged the English he sent into Wales both to purge and disburden his owne Kingdome and to quell and keepe backe the courage of his enemies These men here seated deceiued not his expectation but so carried themselues in his quarrell that they seldome communicated with their neighbours so that to this day they speake not the Language and the Country is yet called Little England beyond Wales 5 The commodities of this Shire are Corne Cattle Sea-Fish and Fowle and in Giraldus his dayes of saleable Wines the Hauens being so commodious for Ships arriuage such is that at Tenby and Milford an Hauen of such capacitie that sixteene Creekes fiue Bayes and thirteene Roades knowne all by seuerall names are therein contained where Henry of Richmond of most happie memory arriued with signall hopes of Englands freedome from vnder the gouernment of an vsurping Tyrant 6 Neere vnto this is Pembroke the Shire-Towne seated more ancient in shew then it is in yeares and more houses without Inhabitants then I saw in any one Citie thorowout my suruey It is walled long-wise and them but indifferent for repaire containing in circuit eight hundred and fourescore pases hauing three Gates of passage and at the West end a large Castle and locked-causey that leads ouer the water to the decayed Priory of Monton The site of this Towne is in the degree of Longitude as Mercator doth measure 14. and 55. minutes and the eleuation from the North-pole in the degree of Latitude 52. 7 A Citie as barren is old Saint Dauids neither clad with Woods nor garnished with Riuers nor beautified with Fields nor adorned vvith Meadowes but lieth alwayes open both to winde and stormes Yet hath it beene a Nursery to holy men for herein liued Calphâ—â—rnius a Britaine Priest whose wife was Concha sister to Saint Martin and both of them the parents of Saint Patricke the Apostle of Ireland Deus a most religious Bishop made this an Archiepiscopall See remoued from Isâ—a Legionum This the Britaines call Tuy Dewy the house of Deui we Saint Dauids a Citie with few Inhabitants yet hath it a faire Cathedrall Church dedicated to Saint Andrew and Dauid in the middest of whose Quire lieth intombed Edmund Earle of Richmond father to King Henry the seuenth whose Monument as the Prebends told me spared their Church from other defacements when all went downe vnder the hammers of King Henry the eight About this is a faire wall and the Bishops Palace all of free stone a goodly house I assure you and of great receit whose vncouered tops cause the curious workes in the walles daily to weepe and them to feare their downefall ere long 8 But Monton the Priorie and S. Dogmels places of deuout pietie erected in this Countie found not the like fauour when the commission of their dissolutions came downe against them and the axes of destruction cut downe the props of their walles RADNOR-SHIRE CHAPTER III. RADNOR-SHIRE lieth bordered vpon the North with the County Monmouth vpon the East toucheth Shropshire and Herefordshire the Riuers Clarwen and Wye diuide it from Breknock in the
situation of the people who being the Norther-most of the Kingdome of East-Angles are therefore called the Northfolke as the Souther-most of the Southfolke The Ayre is sharpe and piercing especially in the Champion and neere the Seaâ— therefore it delaieth the Spring and Haruest the situation of the Country inclining thereto as being vnder the 53. degree of Latitude The Soâ—e diuers about the Townes commonly good as Clay Chalke or saâ— earth well watered and with some wood vpward to the Heaths naked dry and barren Marsland and Flegg exceeding rich but Marsland properly for Pastere Flegg for Corne. 2 The parts from Thetford to Buruham and thence Westward as also along the Coast be counted Champion the rest as better furnished with woods Woodland The Champion aboundeth with Corne Sheepe and Conies and here in the barren Heaths as the prouidence of our Ancestors hath of old disposed them are very profitable For on them principally lie our Fould courses called of the Saxons whose institution they therefore seeme to be Paldyoeun that is Libertie of fold or fouldage These Heaths by the Compasture of the sheepe which we call Tath are made so rich with Corne that when they fall to be sowne they commonly match the fruitfullest grounds in other Countries and laid againe doe long after yeeld a sweeter and more plentifull feed for sheepe so that each of them maintaine other and are the chiefest wealth of our Country The Woodland fitter for grasse is maintained chiefly by feeding of Cattell yet well stored with Corne and Sheepe The Coast is fortunate in Fish and hath many good Harbours whereof Lenn and Yarmouth be the mother-ports and of great traffique Wels and Blakeney next in estimation The whole Countie aboundeth with Riuers and pleasant Springs of which the Ouse is chiefest by whose plentifull branches the Isle of Fly the Townes and Shires of Cambridge Humington and the Countie of Suffolke vent and receiue Commodities The next is Hierus or Yere passing from Norwich to Yarmouth where it receiueth the Bure comming from Aylsham both of them of great seruice for water-carriages but very notable for their plenty of 〈◊〉 for some one man out of an hold vpon the Bure hath drawne vp ordinarily once a yeare betweene two Nets about fiue or six score busness of Fish at one draught The Waueney and the lesser Ouse are also Nauigable and of great vse The residue I omit 3 I he people were anciently called ICENI as they also of Suffolke Cambridge-shire and Huntington-shire and supposed to be of them whom Caesar nameth Cenimagni Ptolemie Simeni some Tâ—gens Their manners were likely to be as the rest of the Britaines barbarous at those times as appeareth by Caesar and Tacitus Neither can I otherwise commend their Successors the Saxons for so also their owne Countryman Ethelwerd termeth them Since the entry of the Normans they haue beene accounted ciuill and ingenious apt to good Letters adorning Religion with more Churches and Monasteries then any Shire of England and the Lawes and Seats of Iustice for many ages with some excellent men from whom most of our chiefe Families and some of the greatest Nobility of the Kingdome haue taken aduancement And herein is Northfolke fortunate that as Crete boasted of an hundred Cities so may she of an hundred Families of Gentlemen neuer yet attainted of high Treason How the gouernment of this Country was about Caesars time is vncertaine but agreeable no doubt to the rest of the Britaines vnder some peculiar Toparch or Regulus as Tacitus termeth him The latter Romans held it by two Garrisons one at Gariannum neere Yarmouth the other at Branedunum now called Brancastre both of horse and commanded by the Comes Maritims Tractus as Marcellinus calleth him termed after Comes Littoris Saexonici Vpon the entry of the Saxons this Countie with Suffolke fell in the portion of the Angles and about the yeare fiue hundred sixtie one were together erected into a Kingdome by Vffa of whom the succeeding Kings were tituled Vffines But hauing suffred many Tempests of Fortune it was in the yeare 870. vtterly wasted and extinct by Hungar and Hubba the Danes who ouerthrew the vertuous King Edmund about Thetford and after martyred him at S. Edmundsbury Yet they did not long enioy it for King Edward shortly recouered it from them and annexed it to his other Kingdomes The Danes notwithstanding inhabited abundantly in these parts so that many of our Townes were founded by them and a great part of our people and Gentry are risen out of their bloud 4 This Kingdome of East-Angles was after allotted to an Earledome of that name by William the Conquerour who made Radulph a Britaine marying his kinswoman Earle thereof but gaue the greatest parts of this Countie about Wimondham Keninghall Lenn Buruham Fulmerstone c. to W. de Albany Pincernae and W de Warranna Forrestario who to strengthen themselues according to the vse of that time with the homage and seruice of many tenants diuided large portions of the same amongst their friends and followers so that most of the Manours and Lands in the parts aforesaid were in those dayes either mediately or immediately holden of one of them And as Northfolke and Suffolke were first vnited in a Kingdome then in an Earledome so they continued vnited in the Sheriffe-wicke till about the fifteenth yeare of Queene Elizabeth 5 The Townes here are commonly well built and populous three of them being of that worth and qualitie as no one Shire of England hath the like Norwich Lenn and Yarmouth to which for ancient reputation as hauing beene a seat of the Kings of East-Angles I may adde Thetford knowne to Antonius Ptolemie and elder ages by the name of Sitemagus when the other three were yet in their infancie and of no esteeme for I accept not the Relations of the Antiquitie and State of Norwich in the time of the Britaine and Saxons though Alexander Neuil hath well graced them Her very name abridgeth her Antiquitie as hauing no other in Histories but Norwich which is meere Saxon or Danish and signifieth the North-Towne or Castle It seemeth to haue risen out of the decay of her neighbour Vinta now called Castor and as M. Cambden noteth not to haue beene of marâ—â— before the entry of the Danes who in the yeare 1004. vnder Sweno their Captaine first sackt and then burnt it euen in her infancie Yet in the dayes of Edward the Confessor it recouered 1320. Burgesset But maintaining the cause of Earle Radulph aforesaid against the Conquerour they were by famine and sword wasted to 560 at which time the Earle escaping by ship his wife vpon composition yeelded the Castle and followed 〈◊〉 William Rusuâ— time it was growne famous for Merchandise and concourse of people so that Herbert then translating the Bishopricke from Thetford thither made each of them an ornament to other In varietie of times it felt much varietie of Fortune By fire in Anno 1508. By extreame plagues whereof
reaching aboue an hundred miles in length 4 Siluester Giraldus makes the Riuer Wye to be the Meare betweene England and Wales on the South part called South-Wales whence he ascribeth the breadth of Wales vnto Saint Dauids in Meneuia to be an hundred miles and the length from Caerleon vpon Vske in Gwentland to Holly head in Anglesey an hundred miles he might haue said thirtie more 5 About the yeare of Christ 870. our Alfred raigning in England Rodericus Magnus King of Wales did diuide it into three Talaiths Regions or Territories which were called Kingdomes This Rodericus Magnâ—â— gaue Venedotia Gwineth or North-Wales to Anarawd his eldest sonne to Cadeth his second sonne Demetia Deheubarth or South-Wales and to Meruin his third sonne Powys 6 North-Wales had vpon the North side the Irish Sea from the Riuer Dee at Bassingwerke to Aberdyni vpon the West and South-West the Riuer Dyni which diuideth it from South-Wales and in some places from Powysland And on the South and East it is diuided from Powys sometimes with high hils and sometimes with Riuers till it come againe to the Riuer Dee It is generally full of high mountaines craggie rockes great woods and deepe vallies many straight dangerous places deepe and swift Riuers 7 This Land was of old time diuided into foure parts Môn Aruon Meryonyth and y Beruedâ—wlan or the middle Country and each of these were againe diuided into seuerall Cantrenes and they subdiuided into their Cymeden or Commots wherein we follow that diuision which was in the time of Llewylyn ap Gruffin last Prince of Wales according to a Copie imparted to me by a worshipfull friend and learned Antiquarie as seeming farre more exact then that of Doctor Powels 8 Anglesey the chiefest is separated from the maine Land with the Riuer 〈◊〉 wherein at Aberfraw was the Princes Court now a meane village In this Iland is a faire Towne called Beaumarish and a common passage to Ireland at Caergyâ—i in English Holly-head 9 Aruon the second part of North-Wales is now called Carnaruonshire the strongest Country within that Principalitie giuing place to none for fertilitie of the ground of for plentie of Wood-Castle Fish and Fowle c. Here are the Townes of Caâ—â—naruon in old time called Caer-Segonâ— and Bangor the Bishops See with diuers other ancient Castles and places of memory This portion hath on the North the Sea and Moenaâ— vpon the East and South-east the Riuer 〈◊〉 which diuideth it from Denbigh-shire and on the South-west is separated from Merioneth by Riuers Mountaines and Meares 10 Merioneth was the third part of Gwyneth and keepeth the name till this day is full of hilles and much noted for the resort of people that repaire thither to take Hertings Vpon the North it hath Aruon and Denbigh-land vpon the South Caerdigan-shire and vpon the East Montgomery-shire heretofore part of Powys In this Countie standeth the Towne of Harleth and a great Lake called Ilyn Tegyd This Country is likewise full of Cattle Fowle and Fish and hath in it great store of redde Deere and Roes but there is much scarcitie of Corne. 11 Y Beruedhwlad was the fourth part of Gwyneth and may be called in English The middle Country is inclosed with hilles on the East West and South-parts and with the Sea Northward It is plentifull of Cattle Fish and Fowle as also of Corne and is diuided in the middest with the Riuer Clwyd to which run a number of other Riuers from the hilles In this part is Dyffryn Clwyd the fairest Valley within Wales containing eighteene miles in length and seauen in breadth In which is the Towne and Castle of Ruthlan neere vnto the Sea and not farre thence S. Assaph an Episcopall seat betweene the Riuers Clwyd and Elwy Herein stands the faire Towne and goodly Castle of Denbigh situated vpon a Rocke the greatest Market-Towne of North-Wales and from thence is seene the Towne and Castle of Ruthyn faire for prospect and fruitfull for site This part of North-Wales hath the Sea vpon the North d ee toward the East Aruon the Riuer Conwey and Merionyth vpon the West and the Country then called Powys vpon the South And these were the Meares and bounds of the foure parts of Venedotia Gwyneth or North-Wales 12 The second Talaith or Kingdome was Mathraual or Powys To this belonged the Country of Powys and the Land betweene Wye and Seuerne It had South-Wales vpon the South and West with the Riuers Wye and Tywy and other Meares vpon the North Gwyneth and vpon the East the Marches of England from Chester to Wye a little aboue Hereford This part was diuided into Powis Vadoc Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne and Powis Wenwynwyn In Powis Vadoc is the Castle of Holt in Bromefeild and the Castle of Chirke in Chirkeland the Castle likewise of Whittington and Lordship of Oswestrie with others 13 The second part of Powis or the Territory belonging to Mathraual is Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne or Gwy and Hauren whereof some is at this day in Montgomery-shire some in Radnor-shire and some in Brecknock-shire and among sundry other hath these Townes and Castles following Montgomery The Castle of Clyn The Towne of Knighton The Castle of Cymaron Presteyn The Towne and Castle of Radnor called in Welsh Maesyuet which is at this day the Shire-Towne The Towne of Kinton and the Castle of Huntingdon 14 The third part belonging to Mathranal chiefe seat of Powys after the Welsh were driuen from Pengwern or Shrewsburie was Powys Wenwynwyn a Country full of Woods Hilles and Riuers hauing in it among others the Townes of Welsh-Poole Newtowne Machinhaeth Arustly was anciently in this part but afterward it came to the Princes of Gwyneth This may suffice for the description of that which in old time was called Gwyneth and Powys 15 It now remaineth that we describe the last kingdome of Wales called Demetia Deheubarth or the Talaith of Dineuowr which although it was the greatest yet was it not the best because it was much molested with Flemings and Normans and for that also diuers parts thereof would not obey their Prince as in Gwent and in Morganwâ— 16 This was diuided into sixe parts of which Caerdigan was the first and is a Champion Countrey without much Wood. It hath Merionyth-shire on the North part of Powys vpon the East Carmarden-shire and Pembroke-shire with the Riuer Tiuâ— vpon the South and vpon the West the Irish Sea In this part is the Towne of Caerdigan vpon Tiuâ— not farre from the Sea as also the Towne of Aberstwyth vpon the Riuer Istwyth and Lhanbadarneuowr which in times past was a great Sanctuary there were also many Castles as of Stratneyrie of Walter of Lhanrysted of Dyuerâ—h and of Aber Roydell c. 17 The second part was called Dyuet and at this day Penbroke-shire It hath vpon the North and West the Irish Sea vpon the East Carmarden-shire and vpon the South Seuerne There are in it sundry Townes and Hauens among others these
Imaus in Schithia For all the yeare long these lye mantelled ouer with Snow hard crusted together though otherwise for their height they are open and liable both to the Sunne to dissolue them and the windes to ouer-sweepe them 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordouices of whom we haue sufficiently spoken in the description of the former Prouinces neither need I insist either vpon the pleasures or profits that this Country yeeldeth by reason of the great affinity it hath both of Climate and Commodities with Denbigh-shire and Flint-shire before mentioned But this beyond the other in some places breeds certaine Shel-fishes which being conceiued by an heauenly dew bring forth Pearles in ancient times 〈…〉 of then now they are 6 Touching places of note that Citie is very ancient which the Emperour Antonine calleth Segontium taking name of a Riuer running by which at this day is called Seront some reliques of the walls whereof doe yet appeare neere vnto a little Church consecrated to the honour of Saint Publicius This Citie Ninius calleth Caer Custenith which some interpret the Citie of Constantine Indeed Mathew Westminster saith how true I know not that Anno 1283. here was found the body of Constantius Father to great Constantine which King Edward the first caused to be sumptuously bestowed in the Church of the new Citie which he raised out of the ruines of the old and is now called Caâ—â—naruon which giueth name to this whole Shire The Towne it selfe yeeldeth a most excellent prospect towards the Sea and is incompassed in a manner round with the wals of the Castle so as we may say it is a Citie within a Castle which taketh vp the whole West-side of it and great pitie it is that so famous a worke should not be perpetuous or euer become the ruine of time which is much feared for the mercilesse vnderminings of the Sea that with her daily and forcible irruptions neuer ceaseth to wash away the foundations of the Key The people of this Towne are well approued for courteâ—ie and also Ciuill gouernment which is administred by the Constable of the Castle who is euer Maior by Patent hauing the assistance of one Alderman two Bailiffes two Sergeants at Mace and one Towne-Clerke The Townesmen doe not a little glory that King Edward the second was borne there in a Tower of the Castle called Eagle-Tower and surnamed of Caer-nar-uon he being the first Prince of Wales of the English line The site of this Towne according to Mathematicall obseruation is in the degree of Longitude 15. and 50. scruples from the first West-point and the Pole eleuated in Latitude 53. and 50. Bangor the Bishops See though it be now but a small Towne yet it was in time past so large that for the greatnesse thereof it was called Banchor Vaur that is Great Banchor which Hugh Earle of Chester fortified with a Castle But it hath beene long since vtterly ruinated and laid leuell with the ground in so much as there is not any footing to be found or other monuments left thereof although they haue beene sought with all diligent enquiry This Bishops See hath within the Dioces ninetie six Parishes But the ancient Church which was consecrated vnto Daniel sometime Bishop thereof was defaced and set on fire by that notorious Rebell Owen Glendowerdwy who had a purpose also to destroy all the Cities of Wales for that they stood for the King of England And though the same Church was since repaired about the time of King Henry the seauenth yet hath it scarce recouered the resemblance of her former dignitie The Riuer Conwey which limitteth this Shire on the East-side is in Ptolemy by corruption or ignorance of Transcribers called Toisonius in stead of Cononius whence Canonium a Towne mentioned by Antonine tooke name and albeit both it and its name be now vtterly extinct yet is there a couert remembrance thereof in the new name of a poore Village standing among the rubbish thereof called Caer-hean that is The ancient Citie Out of the spoyle whereof King Edward the first built a new Towne at the Riuers mouth termed thereupon Aber-Conwey that is the mouth of Conwey which being formerly fortified by Hugh of Chester and strongly situate and fenced both with wals a faire Castle by the Riuers side deserues rather the name of a Citie then a Towne if it were more populous and traffiqued with Inhabitants Neither must I here forget Newin though but a small Market-Towne for that it pleased the English Nobles Anno 1284 to honour it and the memory of King Arthur with triumphant celebritie after they had subdued the rebellious Ring-leaders of Wales 7 Other matters of memorable note this Country affordeth not much vnlesse perhaps this That iust ouer against the Riuer Conwey where it iflueth into the Sea there sometimes stood an ancient Citie named Diganwey which many yeares agoe was consumed by lightning and so made vtterly desolate as many other monuments haue beene of ancient and worthy memory As likewise that in the Poole Lin-Peris there is a kinde of Fish called there Torcoâ—h hauing a red belly no where else seene For touching these two other miracles famoused by Giraldus and Geruasius that on those his high hils there are two Pooles called the Meares the one of which produceth great store of fish but all hauing onely one eye and in the other there is a moueable Iland which as soone as a man treadeth on it forthwith floateth a great way off whereby the Welsh are said to haue often scaped and deluded their enemies assailing them these matters are out of my Creed and yet I thinke the Reader had rather beleeue them then to goe to see whether it be so or no. SCOTLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION CHAPTER I. SCOTLAND the second Kingdome of Great Britaine and the North part of the Iland hath on the East the Germane Ocean on the North the Orkneys and Deucalidon Sea the West affronted with Ireland and the South hath the Riuer Tweed the Cheuiot Hils and the adiacent Tract reaching to the Sulway Sands whereby it is separated from England 2 This Kingdome is faire and spacious and from these South-borders spreadeth it selfe wide into the East and West till againe it contracts it selfe narrower vnto the Northerne Promontories furnished with all things befitting a famous Kingdome both for Ayre and Soyle Riuers Woods Mountaines Fish Fowle and Cattle and Corne so plenteous that it supplyeth therewith other Countryes in their want The people thereof are of good feature strong of body and of couragious minde and in warres so venturous that scarce any seruice of note hath beene performed but that they were with the first and last in the field Their Nobilitie and Gentry are very studious of learning and all ciuill knowledge for which end they not onely frequent the three Vniuersities of their owne Kingdome S. Andrewes Glasco and Edenbrough the Nurseries of Pietie and Mansions of the sacred Muses but also much
cast Don Iohn D' Aquila with 8. thousand Spaniards vpon confidence of the excommunications of Pius the fift Gregory the thirteenth Clement the eight Popes all of them discharging their curses like vnto thunder bolts against Queene Elizabeth of blessed memory landed neere vnto Kinsale presuming that the rebellions of Tyrone had turned the hearts of the Irish for Rome Sir Charles Blunt Lord Montioy in the depth of Winter and with his tired Souldiers so dâ—â—nted their Spanish hearts that with one victory he repressed their bragging boldnesse and recouered the Irish that were ready to reuolt 10 God hath oftentimes shewed his tender loue and affection to this people in laying his fatherly chastisements and afflictions vpon them sometimes by windes sometimes by famine and dearth and sometimes againe by opening his hand of plenty into their laps to conuert them to himselfe and to diuert their hearts from superstitions In the yeare 1330 about the Feast of Saint Iohn 〈◊〉 there be an such a deaâ—th of Coâ—â—e in this Country by the abundance of raine and the inundation of waters which continued vntill Michaelmas following that a Cranoc of Wheat was sold for 〈…〉 a Cranoc of Oats for eight shillings a Cranoc of Pease Beanes and Barley for as much 〈◊〉 windâ—s the same yeare were so mightie that many were hurt and many slaine outright by the fall of houses that was forced by the violence of the same The like whereof were neuer seene in Ireland In the yeare 1317 there was such a dearth of Corne and other victuals that a Cranoc of Wheat was sold for twentie three shillings And many Housholders that before time had sustained and 〈◊〉 a great number were this yeare driuen to beg and many famished In the time of which â—â—mine the mercy of God so disposed that vpon the 27. day of Iune in the yeare 1331 there came to land such a mightie multitude of great Sea-fishes that is Thursheds such as in many ages past had neuer beene seene that the people were much comforted in this distresse and receiued great reliefe and sustenance by the same 11 Places of Relâ—gion in this Country were the two Abbies at Yoghall called the North-Abbey and South-Abbey The two Abbies at Limericke S. Francis Abbey and S Dominicke Abbey The two Abbies at Corke the Abbey of the I le and S. Frances Abbey and the famous Abbey in times past of the holy Crosse which hath had many priuiledges and liberties granted vnto it in honour of a peece of Christs Crosse that was as they say sometimes preserued there Thus were Christians perswaded in ancient times And it is a wonder in what Troopes and Assemblies people doe euen yet conflow thither vpon deuotion as vnto a place of holinesse and sanctâ—â—e so firmely are they settled in the Religion of their Fore-fathers which hath beene increased beyond all measure by the negligent care of their Teachers who should instruct their ignorance and labour to reduce them from the errors they perseuere in LEINSTER CHAPTER III. THis Country the Natiues call Leighnigh the Britaines Lein in Latine Lagenia in the ancient liues of the Saints Lagen and in English Leinster It lieth Eastward along Hibernicum Sea on Connaught side Westward it is bounded with the Riuer Shanon the North with the Territorie of Louth and the South with part of the Prouince of Mounster This Country butteth vpon England as Mounster and Connaught doe vpon Spaine 2 The forme thereof is triangle and sides not much vnequall from her South-East vnto the West-point about 80. miles from thence to her North-West about 70. miles and her East Coast along the Irish Sea-shore eightie miles the circumference vpon two hundred and seauentie miles 3 The aire is cleare and gentle mixt with a temperate disposition yeelding neither extremitie of heat or cold according to the seasonable times of the yeare and the naturall condition of the Continent The soile is generally fruitfull plentifull both in fish and flesh and in other victuals as butter cheese and mile It is fertile in Corne Cattle and pasture grounds and would be much more if the husbandman did but apply his industry to which he is inuited by the commodiousnesse of the Country It is well watered with Riuers and for the most part well woodded except the Countie of Diuelin which complaines much of that want being so destitute of wood that they are compelled to vse a clammie kinde of fat turffe for their fuell or Sea-coale brought out of England 4 The Inhabitants of these parts in Ptolemies dayes were the Brigantes Menaâ—â—â— Cauci and Blain from which Blani may seeme to be deriued and contracted the latter and moderne names of this Country Lein Leighnigh and Leinster The Menaâ—â—â— as the name doth after a sort imply came from the Menapians a Nation in Low Germany that dwelt by the Sea-Coasts These Brigantes caâ—â—ed also Birgantes Florianus del Campo a Spaniard labours to fetch from the Brigants of his owne Country of whom an ancient Citie in Spaine called Brigantia tooke the name But they may seeme rather to deriue their denomination from the Riuer Birgus about which they inhabited for to this the very name is almost sufficient to perswade vs. 5 The commodities of this Country doe chiefly consist in Cattle Sea-fowle and Fish It breeds many excellent good horses called Irish Hobbies which haue not the same pace that other horses haue in their course but a soft and round amble setting very easily 6 This Country hath in it three Riuers of note termed in old time the three sisters Shour Neor and Barraeo which issue out of the huge Mountaine called by Giraldus Bladina Montes as out of their mothers wombe and from their rising tops descending with a downefall into seuerall Channels before they emptie themselues into the Ocean ioyne hand in hand all together in a mutuall league and combination 7 Places very dangerous for shipping are certaine fiats and shallowes in the Sea that lie ouer against Holy-point which the Marriners call the Grounds Also the shelues of sand that lie a great way in length opposite to Newcastle which ouer-looketh them into the Sea from the top of an high hill adioyning 8 In this Prouince are placed many faire and wealthy Townes as Kilkenny which for a Burrough-Towne excels all the midland Burroughs in this Iland Kildare which is adorned with an Episcopall See and much graced in the first infancy of the Irish Church by reason of Saint Bridgid a venerable Virgin had in great account and estimation for her virginitie and deuotion as who was the Disciple of S. Patricke of so great fame renowne and antiquite Also Weisford a name giuen vnto it by these Germans whom the Irish terme Oustmans a Towne though inferiour to some yet as memorable as any for that it became the first Colony of the English and did first submit it selfe vnto their protection being assaulted by Fitz Stephen a Captaine worthily made famous for his valour and
is of a supposed 〈◊〉 made an Iland yet diuers haue stifly held that once it was ioyned by an arme of land to the Continent of Gallia To which opinion Spencer farther alluding thus closeth his Stanza Ne was it Iland then ne was it paisde Amid the Ocean waues ne was it sought Of Merchants farre for profits thererem praisde But was all desolate and of some thought By Sea to haue beene from the Celticke Mainland brought 〈…〉 as a matter meerly coniecturall because it is not plaine that there 〈…〉 Ilands nor hils before Noahs floud I leaue at large Virgill surely of all Poets the most learned when describing the Shield which Vulcan forged in Virgils braine for Aeneas he cals the Morini people about Callis the outmost men doth onely meane that they were Westward the furthest Inhabitants vpon the Continent signifying withall that Britaine as being an Iland lay out of the world but yet not out of the knowledge of men for the Commodities thereof inuited the famous Greeke Colonies of Merchants which dwelt at Massilia in France to venture hither as hath beene well obserued out of Strabo 7 And as Iulius Caesar was the first Romane which euer gaue an attempt to conquer it so will we close its prayses with a late Epigram concerning the outward face of the Isle and the motiue of Caesars comming ALBIONIS vertex frondoso criâ—e superbit Arboreas frondes plurimas ales habet Graminean Montes â—undunt paseua pâ—â—em Et carpunt circum paseua gramenoues Sed LATII caruit potioribus Insula donis Victori potior Gloria ni LATIO Albions high tops her woody lockes farre shew With quiers of chanting Birds these Woods resounding Her Downes and Meadowes cladin verdant hew Meadowes and Downes with flockes and heards abounding Latium had greater Wealth yet Caesar thought To Brittish Glory Latiums Wealth worth nought 8 The diuision of Britaine concerning the gouernment and Territories thereof at such time 〈◊〉 Ceaser here arriued doth not sufficiently appeare Caesar himselfe makes so sparing mention therein that we haue little cause to beleeue Florus where he makes Lauie say that after Caesar had slaine 〈…〉 multitude of Britaines he subdued the residue of the I le but rather with exquisite Horaâ—e that he did not at all touch them as the word intactus doth in him purport 9 Kings they were and therefore that diuision which was here in Caesars time was into Kingdomes the old names of whole Nations as also the knowledge of their seuerall abodes hidden vnder the rabbish of so many ages haue of late with infinite labours and exquisite iudgement beene probably restored and abounded yet that no mans expectation and desire be too much frustrated reason wils that we briefly set forth such diuisions of the Land as many repute not ancient onely but authenticke 10 Our seeming ancient Historians begin it at Brute who to euery of his three sonnes gaue a part called presently after their names as Loegria to Lâ—â—rme his eldest sonne Cambria to Camber his second sonne and Albama to Albanist his third sonne And doubtlesse if there had beene more Nations of fame in this Iland Brute should haue had more sonnes fathered on him which conceit some ascribe to Monmouth holding that before him it was neuer so diuided 11 Ptolemie naming Britaine the Great and the Lesse hath beene by some mistaken as so diuiding this Iland into two parts but his proportion and distance from the Aequator compared with his Geographicall description will euince that he calleth this our Iland Great Britaine and Ireland Britaine the Lesse 12 Howbeit some later doe make indeed the South and more Champion to be called Great Britaine and the North more Mountainous Britaine the Lesse whose Inhabitants anciently were distinguished into the Maiatae and Caledonij and now by the Scots are into Heghlandmen and Lawlandmen But that Northerne clime being more piercing for the Romans constitutions and lesse profitable or fruitfull they set their bounds not farre from Edenburgh and altogether neglected the other parts more Northward 13 This neerer part of Britaine they then diuided into two parts for the more Southerne tract together with Wales Dio termeth the Higher and that more Northward the Lower as by the seate of their Legions doth appeare for the second Legion Augusta which kept at Caerleon in South-Wales and the twentieth called Victrix which remained at Chester he placeth in the Higher Britaine but the sixt Legion surnamed also Victrix resident at Yorke serued as he writeth in the Lower Britain which diuision as seemeth was made by Seuerus the Emperour who hauing vanquished Albinus Generall of the Britaines and reduced their State vnder his obedience diuided the gouernment thereof into two Prouinces and placed two Prefects ouer the same 14 After this againe the Romanes did apportion Britaine into three parts whose limits our great Antiquary assigneth by the ancient Archiepiscopall Seates grounding his coniecture on the saying of Pope Lucius who affirmes that the Ecclesiasticall Iurisdictions of the Christians accorded with the precincts of the Romane Magistrates that their Archbishops had their Sees in those Cities wherein their Presidents abode so that the ancient Seates of the three Archbishops here being London in the East Caerleon in the West and Yorke in the North Londons Diocesse as seemeth made Britaine prima Caerleon Britaine secunda and Yorke Maxima Caesariensis 15 But in the next age when the power of their Presidents began to grow ouer-great they againe diuided Britaine into fiue parts adding the three former Valentia and Flauia Caesarieâ—sis the first of which two seemeth to haue beene the Northerly part of Maxima Casarieâ—sis recouered from the Picts and Scots by Theodosius the Generall vnder Valence the Emperour and in honour of him named Valentia and Flauia may be coniectured to receiue the name from Flauius the Emperour sonne of Theodosius for that we reade not of the name Britaine Flauia before his time 16 So these fiue partitions had their limits assigned after this manner Britaine prima contained those coasts that lay betwixt Thamesis the Seuerne and the British Sea Britaine secunda extended from Seuerne vnto the Irish Seas containing the Country that we now call Wales Flauia Caesariensis was that which lay betwixt the Riuers Humber and Tyne and Valentia from the said Riuer and Picts wall reached vnto the Rampire neere Edenburgh in Scotland the farthest part that the Romanes possessed when this diuision was in vse For the seuerall people inhabiting all those parts with their ancient Names Borders whether designed by the Romans or the old Britaines together with our moderne Names and Shires answerable to each of them we will referre you to the Tables thereof elsewhere 17 This whole Prouince of Britaine as in our History shall appeare was highly esteemed of the Emperours themselues assuming as a glorious surname Britanicus comming thither in person ouer those dangerous and scarce knowne Seas here marrying liuing and dying enacting here Lawes
betwixt whom are extended thirtie-foure miles The broadest part is from Awfold Southward to Thamisis by Stanes and them asunder twentie two the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelue miles 3 The Heauens breathing ayre in this Shire is most sweet and delectable so that for the same cause many royall Palaces of our Princes are therein seated and the Countrey better stored with game then with graine insomuch that this Countie is by some men compared vnto a home-spunne freeze cloth with a costly faire lift for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itselfe And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corne and Pasturage especially in Hâ—â—esdale and towards the Riuer of Thamisis 4 In this Shire the Regni an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie were seated whom he brancheth further thorow Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans gouernment when the Land was left to the will of Inuaders the South-Saxons vnder Ella here erected their Kingdome which with the first was raised and soonest found end From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suth-rey as seated vpon the South of the Riuer and now by contraction is called Surrey 5 And albeit the Countie is barren of Cities or Townes of great estate yet is she stored with many Princely Houses yea and fiue of his Majesties so magnificently built that of some she may well say no Shire hath none such as is None-such indeed And were not Richmond a fatall place of Englands best Princes it might in esteeme be ranked with the richest for therein died the great Conquerour of France King Edward the Third the beautifull Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth Emperour and intirely beloued wife to King Richard the Second the most wise Prince King Henry the Seuenth and the rarest of her Sexe the Mirrour of Princes Queene Elizabeth the worlds loue and Subiects joy 6 At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his vntimely end and at Lambeth the hardre Canute and last of the Danish Kings died among his Cuppes But as these places were fatall for the last breath of these Princes so other in this Countie haue beene graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarkes for in Chertsâ—y Abbey King Henry the Sixth who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London was first interred without all funerall pompe but for his holy life was imputed a Saint and lastly translated and intombed at Windsore At Kingston likewise stood the Chaire of Maiestic wherein Athelstan Edwin and Ethelred sate at their Coronation and first receiued their Seepter of Imperiall Power Guildforâ— likewise hath beene farre greater then now it is when the Place of our English-Saxon Kingâ— was therein set And seeing it is the midst of the Shire the Graduation from hence shall be obserued where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples 7 Neither can we account Okam and Ripley two small Villages the least in this Shire which haue brought forth the well knowne men William de Okam that deepe Philosopher and admirable Scholar and George de Ripley the rung leader of our Alchymists and mysticall impostors both of them borne in this Countie and very neere together But why speake I of these sith a place neerer to sight and greater for fame euen Lambeth is the High Seat of Ecclesiasticall Gouernment Pietie and Learning and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops the Metropolitanâ— of England First erected by Archbishop Daldwin and euer since hath beene the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church who in a long succession euen from Anno 596 haue continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches sterne Richard by Gods prouidence Lord Archbishop of that See a most faithfull and prudent Counsellor vnto King IAMES and a most learned and prouident Guide of our most flourishing Church whose gracious fauour vndeseruedly conferred vpon me hath beene a great encouragement to these my poore endeuours 8 Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest were Wembledon where when the fulnesse of prosperitie burst forth into Ciuill Dissensions among the Saxons a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheauâ—in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent wherein he was discomfited and two of his principall Leaders slaine about the yeare of Christ 560. and three hundred thirtie three yeares after King Elfred with a small power ouercame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this Countie which somewhat quelled the courage of his sauage enemy 9 Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the deuotion of Princes and set apart ffom publike vses to Gods Diuine Seruice and their owne Saluation as then was taught the best in account were Sbene Chertsey Merton Newarke Rygate Wauerley Horsleg and in Southwarke Bermundsey and S. Maries These all flourished with increase till the ripeâ—esse of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste vnto King HENRY the Eight that in beating the boughes he brake downe body and all ruinating those houses and seazing their rich possessions into his owne hands So jealous is GOD of his honour and so great vengeance followeth the sinne of Idolatrie HANT-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. HANT-SHIRE lying vpon the West of England Is bordered vpon the North by Barkshire vpon the East with Surrey and Sussex vpon the South with the British Seas and I le of Wight and vpon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shires 2 The length thereof from Blackwater in the North vpon Surrey vnto Bascomb in the South vpon the Sea extended in a right line is fiftie foure English miles and the breadth drawne from Peters-field in the East vnto Tidworth in the West and confines of Wilt-shire is little lesse then thirtie miles the whole Circumference about one hundred fiftie and fiue miles 3 The Aire is temperate though somewhat thicke by reason of the Seas and the many Riuers that thorow the Shire doe fall whose plentie of fish and fruitfull increase doe manifoldly redeeme the harmes which they make 4 The Soile is rich for Corne and Cattle pleasant for pasturage and plenteous for woods in a word in all commodities either for Sea or Land blessed and happy 5 Hauens it hath and those commodious both to let in and to loose out Ships of great burthen in trade of Merchandise or other imployments whereof Portsmouth Tichfield Hamble and South-hampton are chiefe besides many other creeks that open their bosomes into those Seas and the Coast strengthned with many strong Castles such as Hurst Calshot South-hampton S. Andrewes Worth Porchester and the South Castle besides other Bulwarkes or Blockhouses that secure the Country and further in the Land as Malwood Winchester and Odiam so strong that in the time of King Iohn thirteene English-men onely defended the Fort for fifteene dayes against Lewis of France that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly 6 Anciently it was possest vpon the North by the
abode the Iron-side in fight wherein so much bloud of the English was spilt that Canutus their King in remorse conscience built a Church in the place to pacifie God for the sinnes of his people But when the Normans had got the garland of the whole many of their Nobles there seated themselues whose posterities since both there and else-where are spread further abroad in the Realme 6 The Commodities that this Shire yeeldeth are many and great as of Woods Corne Cattle Fish Forests and Saffron which last groweth with such gaine and increase vpon her North parts that from a split cloue much like vnto Garlicke a white blewish Flower shortly springeth from whence fillets of Saffron are gathered before the Sunne and dryed are sold as spice with great gaine From the Ilands Canuey Mersey Horsey Northly Osey Wallot and Foulnesse great store of Fish and Fowle are daily gotten and so from their Cattle haue they continuall increase which men and boyes milke as well the Ewe as the Kine whereof they make great and thicke Cheese sold abroad in the Land and much thereof transported into other Countries Their Oysters which we call Walfleete the best in esteeme and are thought from Paâ—â—â—e to haue beene serued in the Romans Kitchins But least we should exceed measure in commending or the people repose their trust in the soyle behold what God can doe to frustrate both in a moment and that by his meanest creatures for in our age and remembrance the yeare of Christ 1581. an Army of Mice so ouer ranne the Marshes in Dengey Hundred neere vnto South-minster in this Countie that they shore the grasse to the very roots and so tainted the same with their venemous teeth that a great Murraine fell vpon the Cattle which grased thereon to the great losse of their owners 7 The chiefest Citie for account at this day in this Shire is Colchester built by Coilus the British Prince one hundred twentie-foure yeares after the birth of our Sauiour Christi if he of Moâ—mouth say true wherein his sonne Lucius Helena and Constantine the first Christian King Empresse and Emperour in the world were borne which made Necham for Consiantine to sing as he did From Colchester there rose a Starre The Rayes whereof gaue glorious light Throughout the world in climates farre Great Constantine Romes Emperour bright And the Romanes to the great honour of Helena inscribed her Piâ—ssima Venerabilis Augusta But of these we shall be occasioned to speake more hereafter This Citie is situated vpon the South of the Riuer Coln from whence it hath the name and is walled about raised vpon a high Trench of earth though now much decayed hauing six gates of entrance and three posternes in the West wall besides nine Watch-Towers for defence and containeth in compasse 1980 paces wherein stand eight faire Churches and two other without the walls for Gods diuine seruice S Tenants and the Blacke Fryers decayed in the Suburbs Mary Magdalins the Nunnery S Iohns and the Cruched Fryers all suppressed within towards the East is mounted an old Castle and elder ruines vpon a trench containing two Acres of ground whereas yet may be seene the prouident care they had against all ensuing assaults The trade of this Towne standeth chiefly in making of Cloth and Baies with Saies and other like Stuffes daily inuented and is gouerned by two Bailiffes twelue Aldermen all wearing Scarlet a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and foure Sergeants at Mace Whose position for Latitude is in the degree 52. 14. minutes and for Longitude in the degree 21. and 50. minutes 8 Places of antiquitie and memorable note in this Countie I obserue the most famous to be Camalodumum by vs Maldon which was the Royall Seat of Cunobelâ—â— King of the Trinoâ—antes as by his money therein minted appeareth about the time of our Sauiours birth which Citie afterwards Claudius wonne from the Britaines and therein placed a Colony of Souldiers which were called Victricensis This Citie Queene Boduo in reuenge of her wrongs raced to the ground what time she stirred their people against Nero with the slaughter of seuentie thousand of the Romanes Of some later and lesser account was Ithanchester now S. Peters vpon the wall where the Forteuses with their Captaine kept towards the declination of the Romane Empire In the East Promontory of this Countie in the Raigne of Richard the second the teeth of a Giant were found if they were not of an Elephant of a marueilous size saith Raph Coggeshall and not farre thence in the raigne of Elizabeth more bones to the like wonder were digged vp 9 I purposely omit the message of a Pilgrim from S. Iohn Baptist by whom he sent a Ring to King Edward Confessor for which cause his house tooke the name Hauering seeing the Monkes of those times made no great daintie daily to forge matter for their owne aduantage who in this Shire so swarmed that they had houses erected at Waltham Pritlewell Tiltey Dunâ—ow Leeye Hatfeild Peuerell Chelmesford Coggeshall Maldon Earls coln Colâ—hester S Osths Saffron-Walden Hatfield-Bradocke and more with great reuenewes thereto belonging all which felt the Axes and Hammers of destruction when the rest of such foundations fell vnder the â—â—â—ile of King Henry the eight who with Hezekiah brake downe all these Brazen Serpents SVFFOLKE CHAPTER XVI SVFFOLKE in regard of them which were seated in Norfolke is a Country most plenteous and pleasant for habitation It is separated from Norfolke by the Riuers of the lesser Ouse and Waueney whose heads meet almost in the midst of her Verge and that very neere together the one taking course East and the other full West vpon which part Cambridge-shire doth wholly confront The South side is seuered by Stoure from Essex and the East together washed with the Germane Seas 2 The Ayre is good sweet and delectable and in some parts of some of our best Physitians held to be the best in the Land the Soile is rich fruitfull and with all things well replenished in a word nothing wanting for pleasure of profit 3 The forme thereof is some what Cressant shooting vp narrower into the North and spreading wider towards the South whose broadest part is about twentie miles but from East to West much more for from Easton point the furthest of this Shire yea of all Britaine into the Sea vnto great Ouse Riuer her Westerne bounder are fortie fiue miles and the whole in circumference about one hundred fortie sixe miles 4 Anciently this part of the Iland was possessed by the Iceni who as it seemeth by Tacitus ioyned in Amitie with the Romans a mightie people saith he and neuer shaken with warres before the raigne of Claudius but then by Ostorius were vanquished though not without great slaughter of the Romans and in a Battle against them M. Ostorius the sonne of the Generall wonne great honour in sauing of a Roman Citizens life so ready were they to giue and receiue Honours to themselues but sleightly to
Citie and that openly at high noone-day This notwithstanding she thankfully accepted and performed the act accordingly enioyned for this Lady Gâ—diâ—a stripping her selfe of all rich attire let loose the treffes of her faire haire which on euery side so couered her nakednesse that no part of her body was vnciuill to sight whereby she redeemed the former freedomes and remission of such heauie Tributes Whose memory I wish may remaine honourable in that Citie for euer and her pitie followed by such possessing Ladies This Citie had grant to choose their yearely Magistrates a Maior and two Bailiffes and to build about and embattle a wall by King Edward the 3. whom Henry the 6. corporated a Countie of it selfe and changed the names of their Bailifs into Sherifs and the wals then were built as they now stand thorow which open 13 gates for entrance besides 18. other Towers thereon for defence At Gofford-gate in the East hangeth the shield-bene of a wild Bore farre bigger then the greatest Oxe-bone with whose snout the great pit called Swanswell was turned vp and was slaine by the famous Guy if we will beleeue report Next vnto this Citie in account and commerce is Warroicke vpon the North-west banke of Auon built by Gurgunstus the sonne of Belâ—â—e as Iohn Rosse Monke of the place saith 375. yeares before the birth of Christ by Ninius called Caer-Guaruic and Caer-Leon and by learned Cambden judged to be PRAESIDIVM the Romane Garrisons Towne The situation of this place is most pleasant vpon a hill rising from the Riuer ouer which is a strong and faire Stone bridge and her sharpe streame vpon the Towne side checked with a most sumptuous and stately Castle the decayes whereof with great cost and curious buildings the right worthy Knight Sir Foulke Greuil in whose person shineth all true vertue and high nobilitie hath repaired whose merits to me ward I doe acknowledge in setting this hand free from the daily imployments of a manuall trade and giuing it full libertie thus to expresse the inclination of my minde himselfe being the Procurer of my present estate It seemeth this Towne hath beene walled about as appeareth by the Trench in some places seene and two very faire Gates whose passages are hewed out of the Rocke as all other into the Towne are ouer whom two beautifull Chappels are built that towards the East called S Peters and that on the South-west S Iames. Two faire Churches are therein seated called S. Maries and S. Nicholas but these in and about the Towne suppressed S. Laurence S. Michaels Iohn Baptist and Iohn of Ierusalem beside the Nunnery in the North of the Towne whose North Pole is eleuated in Latitude 52. degrees 45 minutes and is seated from the first point in the West of Longitude 18 degrees and 45 minutes being yearely gouerned by a Bailiffe twelue Brethren twentie foure Burgesses for Common Counsell a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and one Sergeant their Attendant 7 Places of most memorable note obserued in this Shire are Shugbury where the precious stone Astroites is found Of-Church which was the Palace of great Offa the Mercian and the buriall-place of S. Fremund his sonne Chesterton where the famous Fosse-way is seene At Leamington so far from the Sea a Spring of Salt-water boileth vp and at Newenham Regis most soueraigne water against the Stone Greene wounds Vlcers and Impostumes and drunke with Salt looseth but with Sugar bindeth the body and turneth wood into stone as my selfe saw by many sticks that therein were fallen some part of them Ash and some part of them Stone and Guy-Cliffe where the famous Earle Guy after many painefull exploits atchieued retired and vnknowne lead an Hermits life and was lastly there buried 8 The chiefest Commodities in this Countie growing are Corne whereof the Red Horse Vale yeeldeth most abundantly Woolls in great plentie Woods and Iron though the producer of the one will be the destruction of the other Such honourable Families as haue beene dignified with the Earledome of this Shire-Townes name since the Normans Conquest in the great Map it selfe are inserted and by their seuerall names expressed NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE CHAPTER XXVII NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE situated neere vnto the middest of England lyeth separtted vpon the North from Lincoln-shire by the Riuer Wâ—land from Hammington-shire on the East is parted by the water Nene her South is bounded with Buckingham and Oxford shires and the West from Warwicke with Watling-street-way Auon and Weland is diuided from Leicester-shire 2 The forme of this Countie is large and narrow broadest in the South-west and thence shooting still lesser like vnto a Horne nor not much vnlike to the forme of Cornwall and from the entrance of Cherwell into this Shire vnto the fall of Weland and Nene neere vnto Crowland are by measure fortie sixe miles and the broadest part is from Ouse vnto Auon which is not fully twentie miles the whole in circumference one hundred and nineteene miles 3 The aire is good temperate and healthfull the soile is champion rich and fruitfull and so plenteously peopled that from some Ascents thirtie Parish-Churches and many more Wind-milles at one view may be seene notwithstanding the simple and gentle sheepe of all creatures the most harmelesse are now become so rauenous that they begin to deuoure men waste fields and depopulate houses if not whole Towne-ships as one merily hath written 4 The antient people knowne to the Romans and recorded by Ptolemie were the Coritani who possessed this Country and were branched further thorow Leicester Lincolne Nottingham Rutland and Darbie-shires these ioyning with the Irenians with them were fettered with the chaines of subiection when for Claudius Publius Ostrius Scapula entred his Lieutenantship in Britaine and in battle subdued all betwixt the Riuers Nene and Sabrina But when the Romans were content to let goe that which so long was desired and had cost so much in the getting the Saxons a most warlike Nation put into these parts and made it a portion of their Mercian Kingdome but their gouernment also growne out of date the Normans seated themselues in these faire possessions the branches of whole Stemmes are spread abroad in these parts most fruitfull and faire 5 Commodities arising in this Shire are chiefly gotten by tillage and plough whereby corne so plentifully aboundeth that in no other Countie is found more or so much the pastures and woods are filled with Cattle and euery where sheepe loaden with their fleeces of wooll 6 The chiefe Towne in this Shire is Northampton whereof the Countie taketh name which for circuit beautie and building may be ranked with the most of the Cities of our Land It is seated at the meeting and confluence of two Riuers the greater whereof beareth to name Nen. This Towne hath beene built all of stone as by many foundations remaining to this day is seene and is walled about both strong and high excepting the West which is defended by a Riuer parted into many streames In the depredations of the Danes
the head of that honour on which in other Shires many Knights Fees and sixteene in this attended Here Dauid Earle of this and Arguise father of Isabel de Brus founded the Hospitall of S. Iohn Baptist And Loâ—â—tote here vpon the Fee of Eustace the Vicount built to the honour of the blessed Virgin the Priory of Blacke Channons valued at the Suppression 232 l. 7. s. ob Here at the North end was a house of Fryers and without the Towne at Hinchingbrooke a Cloister of Nunnes valued at 19. l. 9. s. 2. d. founded by the first William in place of S. Pandonia at Eltesley by him suppressed where neere the end of the last Henry the Family of the Cromwels began their Seat To this Shire-Towne and benefit of the neighbour Countries this Riuer was nauigable vntill the power of Grey a mynion of the time stopt that passage and with it all redresse eyther by Law or Parliament By Charter of King Iohn this Towne hath a peculiar Coroner profit by Toll and Custome Recorder Towne-Clerks and two Bayliffes elected annually for gouernment as at Parliament two Burgesses for aduise and assent and is Lord of it selfe in Fee-Farme The rest of the Hundred wherein this Shire-Towne lyeth is the East part of the County and of Hurst a Parish in the center of it named HVRSTINGSTON it was the Fee-farme of Ramsey Abbey which on a point of fertile land thrust out into the Fennes is therein situate founded in the yeare 969 to God our Lady and S. Benedicte by Farle Aylwin of the Royall bloud replenished with Monkes from Westbury by Oswold of Yorke and dedicated by Dâ—nstan of Canterburie Archbishops By Abbat Regâ—ald 1114 this Church was redified by Magnaâ—â—ll Earle of Essex not long after spoyled and by Henry the Third first of all the Norman Princes visited when wasted with the 〈◊〉 warres Regalis mensae Hospitalitas it abbreuiata fuit vt cum Abbatibus Clericis viris satis humilibus hospitia quaesunt prandia This Monastery the shrine of two martyred Kings Ethelbright and Ethelred and of Saint 〈◊〉 the Persian Bishop by humble pietie at first and pious charitie ascended such a pitch of worldly fortune that it transformed their Founder religious pouertie into their ruine the attribute of Raâ—â—y the rich for hauing made themselues Lords of 387. Hides of land whereof 〈◊〉 in this Shire so much as at an easie and vnder rent was at the Suppression valued at 1983 l 15 s 3. d q. but by account of this time annually amounts to 7000 〈◊〉 they then began to affect popular command and first inclosing that large circuit of land and water for in it lyeth the Mile-square Meere of Ramsey as a peculiar Seignory to them called the Balent or Bandy bounded as the Shire from Eâ—y and from Norman-Crosse with the Hundred Meere by Soueraigne Grant they enioyed regall libertie And then aspiring a step further to place in Parliament made Broughton the head of their Baroâ—e annexing to it in this Shire foure Knights Fees Thus in great glory it stood aboue 400. yeares vntill Henry the Eight amongst many other once bright Lamps of Learning and Religion in this State though then obscured with those blemishes to wealth and ease concomitant dissolued the house although Iohn Warboys then Abbot and his 60 blacke Monkes there maintained were of the first that vnder their hands and conuentuall Seale protested Quod Romanus Pontifex non habet maiorem aliquam Iurisdictionem collatam sibi à Deo in Regno Angliae quam quivis alius externus Episcopus A Cell to this rich Monastery was S. Iuces Priory built in that place of Slep by Earle Adelmus in the raigne of the last Edmund where the incorrupted body of S. Ius there once an Hermit in a vision reuealed was by Ednothus taken vp in his Robes Episcopall and dedicated in the presence of Siward Earle of this Countie and that Lady of renowned piety Ethelfleda to the sacred memory of this Persian Bishop Not farre from this is Somersham the gift of the Saxon Earle Brithnothus to the Church of Ely before his owne fatall expedition against the Danes It is the head of those fiue Townes of which the Soke is composed and was an house to the See of Ely well beautified by Iohn Stanley their Bishop but now by exchange is annexed to the Crowne As these so all the rest of this Hundred was the Churches land except Rippon Regis ancient Demaine To which Saple reserued Forrest adioyned and the greater Stiuecly giuen by the last Dauid Earle of Huntingdon in Fee to his three Seruants Sentlice Lakerutle and Camoys 8 NORMANS CROS the next Hundred taketh name of a Crosse aboue Stilton the place where in former ages this Diuision mustered their people whence Wapentake is deriued it had in it two religious houses the eldest in the confines of Newton and Chesterton neere the Riuer of Auon now Nene founded by the first Abbesse Kineburga the Daughter of Penda and Wife of Aelfred King of Northumberland West side a Trench where Ermin-street-way crossed ouer the Riuer by a Stone-bridge whose ruines are now drowned whence the Roman Towne there seaâ—ed on both sides tooke the name Durobriua as Traiectus Fluminis But this Nunnery as raised was also ruined by the Danes before the Conquest The other a Monastery of Cistertian blacke Monks erected in honour of the Virgin Mary by the second Simon Earle of Huntington at Saltry Iudeth the Land of a Lady of that name wife of Earle Waltheof daughter to Lambert Earle of Leâ—us Neece to the Conquerour by his Sister her Mother and Grand-mother to this Founder Malcome William Kings of Scots Earles of Hamingdon and Heires of this Lady strengthened by seuerall Charters this pious worke Many chiefe of that Line as the last Earle Dauid brother to King William as Isabel the wife of Robert dâ— Brus his Daughter heyre and most of the second branch her Progenie making here their Burials This house now leuell with the ground maintained besides the Abbot sixe Monkes and 22 Hindes and was at the Suppression valued at 199. l. 11. c. 8. d The Founders and Patrons of this Monastery were the Lords of the next place Connington first the seate of Turkillus Earle of the East-Angles that inuited Swayn from Denmarke to inuade this Land and who first squared out the vnbounded marishes of this part to the bordering Townes his rule of proportion allowing to euery Parish tantum de Maâ—isco quantum de sicca terra in bredth in which none sine licentia Domini might vel federe vel salcare but leauing most to inter-common by vicinage This Dane exiled when the rest of his Countreymen were by Edward Confessor his land here was giuen to Earle 〈◊〉 by whose eldest heire Matilda marryed to Dauid King of Scots it went along in that Male line vntill by death issuelesse of Iohn Earle of Chester and Huntingdon it fell in partage to his sister Iâ—abel de
giue the name to this Prouince seeing the earth doth staine the wooll of her sheepe into a reddish colour Neither is it strange that the staine of the soyle giues names vnto places and that very many for haue we not in Chesse-shire the Red Rocke in Lancashire the Red Banke and in Wales Rutland Castle To speake nothing of that famous Red Sea which shooteth into the Land betwixt Egypt and Arabia which gaue backe her waters for the Israelites to passe on foote all of them named from the colour of the Soile 3 The longest part of this Shire is from Caldecot in the South vpon the Riuer Ey 〈◊〉 to Thistleton a small Village seated in the North not fully twelue miles and from Timwell East-ward to Wissenden in the West her broadest extant is hardly nine the whole circumference about fortie miles 4 The ayre is good both for health and delight subiect to neither extremity of heat nor cold nor is greatly troubled with foggy mists The Soile is rich and for Corne and tillage giues place vnto none Woods there are plentie and many of them imparked hills feeding heards of Neate and flockes of sheepe Vallies besprinkled with many sweet Springs Graine in abundance and Pastures not wanting in a word all things ministred to the content of life with a liberall heart and open hand Onely this is obiected that the Circuit is not great 5 The draught whereof that I may acknowledge my dutie and his right I receiued at the hands of the right Honourable Iohn Lord Harrington Baron of Exton done by himselfe in his yonger yeares Neere vnto his house Burley standeth Okham a faire Market-Towne which Lordship the said Baron enioyeth with a Royaltie somewhat extraordinary which is this If any Noble by birth come within the precinct of the same Lordship he shall forfeit as an homage a shooe from the horse whereon he rideth vnlesse he redeeme it at a price with money In witnesse whereof there are many Horse-shooes nayled vpon the Shire-Hall doore some of large size and ancient fashion others new and of our present Nobilitie whose names are thereupon stamped as followeth Henry Hastings Roger Rutland Edward L. Russell Earle of Bedford Raphe L. Euwer of Parram Henry L. Bertley Henry L. Mordant William L. Compton Edward L. Dudley Henry L. Winsor George Earle of Cumberland Philip Earle of Montgomery L. Willoughby P. L. Wharton The Lord Shandois Besides many others without names That such homage was his due the said Lord himselfe told me and at that instant a suit depended in Law against the Eirle of Lincolne who refused to forfeit the penaltie or to pay his sine 6 Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romones and mentioned in Ptolemit were the Coritanâ— and by him branched thorow Leicester Lincolne Nottingham Darby-shire and this who with the Icemans were subdued by P. Ostorius vnder the yoke of Claudius the Roman Emperour and at their departure by conquest the Saxons made it a Prounce vnto their Mercian Kingdome whose fortunes likewise comming to a full period the Normans annexed it vnder their Crowne 7 This Countie King Edward Confessor bequeathed by his Testament vnto Queene Eadgith his wife and after her decease vnto his Monastery at Westminster which William the Conquerour cancelled and made voyd bestowing the Lands vpon others the Tithes and the Church vnto those Monkes That the Ferrers here first seated besides the credit of Writers the Horse-shooe whose badge then it was doth witnesse where in the Castle and now the Shire-hall right ouer the Seat of the Iudge a Horse-shooe of iron curiously wrought containing fiue foot and a halfe in length and the bredth thereto proportionably is fixed The Castle hath beene strong but now is decayed the Church faire and the Towne spacious whose degree of Longitude is 19. 46. scruples and the North poles eleuation in Latitude 53. degrees and 7. minutes 8 Let it not seeme offen siue that I to fill vp this little Shire haue inserted the seate of a Towne not sited in this County for besides the conueniency of place the circuit and beautie but especially it being for a time an Vniuersitie did moue much yea and the first in this Iland if Iohn Hardings Author faile him not that will haue Bladud to bring from Athens certaine Philosophers whom here he seated and made publike profession of the Liberall Sciences where as he saith a great number of Scholars studied the Arts and so continued an Vniuersitie vnto the comming of Augustine at which time the Bishop of Rome interdicted it for certaine Heresies sprung vp among the Britaines and Saxons But most true it is that in the Raigne of King Edward the third vpon debate falling betwixt the Southerne and Northerne Students at Oxford many Schoole-men withdrew themselues hither and a while professed and named a Colledge according to one in Oxford Brasen-nose which retaineth that name vnto this day This was so great a skarre vnto the other that when they were recalled by Proclamation to Oxford it was prouided by Oath that no Student in Oxford should publikely professeor reade the Arts at Stanford to the preiudice of Oxford 9 As this Shire is the least in circuit so is it with the fewest Market-Townes replenished hauing onely two And from Societies that seed vpon the labours of others was this Land the freest for besides Rihall where Tibba the Fâ—lconers Goddesse was worshipped for a Saint when Superstition had well-neere put Gods true honour out of place I finde very few neither with more Castles strengthened then that at Okham whose ruines shew that a Castle hath beene there LEICESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER XXX LEICESTER-SHIRE lying bordered vpon the North with Nottingham-shire vpon the East with Lincolne and Rutland vpon the South with Northampton shire and vpon the West with Watling-street-way is parted from Warwick-shire the rest being bounded with the consines of Darby is a Country Champion abounding in corne but spary of woods especially in the South and East parts which are supplyed with pit-coales plenteously gotten in the North of this Prouince and with abundance of Cattle bred in the hilles beyond the Riuer Wreak which is nothing so well inhabited as the rest 2 The Ayre is gentle milde and temperate and giueth appetite both to labour and rest wholesome it is and draweth mans life to a long age and that much without sicknesse at Carleton onely some defect of pronunciation appeareth in their speech 3 The soile thus consisting the commodities are raised accordingly of Corne Cattle and Coales and in the Rockes neere Beuer are sometimes found the Astroites the Starre-like precious Stone 4 The ancient people that inhabited this Countie were the Coritani who were spread further into other Shires but after that the Romans had left the Land to it selfe this with many more fell to be vnder the possession and gouernment of the Mercians and their Kings from whom the English enioyeth it at this day 5 In Circular-wise almost the compasse of this
rase-stones containing 24. miles the whole circumference about 112. miles 3 The forme thereof is somewhat long and narrow the Aire sharpe and piercing purging it selfe from the trouble of grosse foggy mists and vapours by reason of which the people of this Prouince are not acquainted with strange diseases or imperfections of body but liue long and are healthfull and attaine to the number of many yeares 4 The Soile for the most part of it is but barren and can hardly be brought to any fruitfulnesse by the industry and painfull labour of the husbandman being so full of infertile places which the Northern Englishmen call Moores yet the more Southerly part is not reported to be so sterile but more fruitfull in the vallies though contained in a narrow roome betweene the Riuer Lone and Wâ—â—ander mear and it is all termed by one name The Barony of Kendale or Candale that is the dale by Can taking the name of the Riuer Can that runs through it 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Brigantes mentioned in the seuerall Counties of Yorke Lancaster and Cumberland 6 It is not commended either for plentie of Corne or Cattle being neither stored with arable grounds to bring forth the one nor pasturage to breed vp the other the principall profit that the people of this Prouince raise vnto themselues is by cloathing 7 The chiefest place of which is Kandale or Kendale called also Kirkeby Kendale standing on the banke of the Riuer Can. This Towne is of great trade and resort and for the diligent and industrious practise of making cloath so excels the rest that in regard thereof it carrieth a supereminent name aboue them and hath great vent trashque for her wollen cloaths through all the parts of England It challengeth not much glory for Antiquitie onely this it accounteth a great credit that it hath dignified three Earles with the title thereof as Iohn Duke of Bedford whom Henry the Fift being his brother aduanced to that honour Iohn Duke of Sommerset and Iohn de Foix whom King Henry the sixt preferred to that dignitie for his honourable and trusty seruices done in the French warres It is a place of very ciuill and orderly gouernment the which is mannaged by an Alderman chosen euery yeare out of his twelue Brethren who are all distinguished and notified from the rest by the wearing of purple garments The Alderman and his Senior Brother are alwayes Iustices of Peace and Quorum There are in it a Towne-Clerke a Recorder two Sergeants at Mace and two Chamberlaines By Mathematicall obseruation the site of this Towne is in the degree of Longitude 17. 30. scruples from the first West point and the Pole eleuated in Latitude to the degree 55. and 15. minutes 8 Places of memorable note for Antiquitie are Vertera mentioned by Antonine the Emperour and Aballaba which we contractly call Apelby In the one the Northerne English conspired against William the Conquerour in the beginning of the Norman gouernment In the other the Aâ—relâ—an Maures kept a station in the time of the Romanes and their high streete is yet apparently to be seene by the ridges thereof which lead by Apelby to a place called Brouonacum mentioned in the Booke of Prouinciall notices The antique pieces of Romane Coyne other whiles digd vp hereabouts and some Inscriptions not long since found shew of what continuance they haue beene although Time which deuouteth all things hath so fed vpon their carkasses many ages together as it hath almost consumed both houses and Inhabitants For Apelby now is bare both of people and building and were it not for the antiquitie that makes it the more esteemable in whose Castle the Assises are commonly kept it would be little better in account then a village Verterae is long since decayed and the name of it changed into Burgh for it is commonly named Burgh vnder Staâ—emore In which it is said a Romane Captaine made his abode with a band of Directores in the declining age of the Romane Empire These two places William of Newborough calleth Princely Holds and writeth that William King of Scots a little before he himselfe was taken prisoner at Alnewicke surprized them on a sodaine but King Iohn recouered them after and liberally bestowed them vpon Robert Vâ—pont for his many worthy seruices 9 There is mention made but of one religious house that hath beene in all this Country and that was a little Monastery seated neere vnto the Riuer Lodâ—â— built by Thoâ—as the sonne of Gospatricke the sonne of Orms where there is a fountaine or spring that ebbes and flowes many times a day and it is thought that some notable Act of Atchieuement hath beene performed there for that there be huge stones in forme of Pyramides some nine foot high and fourteene foot thicke ranged for a mile in length directly in a row and equally distant which might seeme to haue beene there purposely pitcâ—ed in memory thereof but what that Act was is not now knowne but quite worne out of remembrance by times iniurie 10 Other matters worthy obseruation are onely these That at Amboglana now called Amble-side neere the vpper corner of Winander mear there appeares at this day the ruines of an ancient Citie which by the British-Brickes by Romane-money oftentimes found there by High-wayes paued leading vnto it and other likelihoods seemes to haue beene a worke of the Romanes The Fortresse thereof so long fenced with a ditch and rampire that it tooke vp in length one hundred thirtie two Ells and in bredth eight There are also neere Kendale in the Riuer Can two Catadupae or Waterfals where the waters descend with such a forcible downefall that it compels a mightie noyse to be heard which the neighbour Inhabitants make such vse of as they stand them in as good stead as Prognostications for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more cleare and with a louder eccho in their eares they certainly looke for faire weather to follow But when that on the South doth the like they expect foggy mists and showres of raine 11 This Prouince is traded with foure Market-Townes fortified with the strength of seuen Castles and hath 26. Parishes in it for the celebration of Diuine Seruice CVMBERLAND CHAPTER XLI CVMBERLAND the furthest North-west Prouince in this Realme of England confronteth vpon the South of Scotland and is diuided from that Kingdome partly by the Riuer â—irsoâ— then crossing Eske by a tract thorow Solome-Mosse vntill it come to the Solwaye Frith by Ptolemie called the 〈◊〉 Baye The North-west part is neighboured by Northumberland more East-ward with Westmerland the South with Lancashire and the West is wholly washed with the Irish Seas 2 The forme whereof is long and narrow pointing wedge-like into the South which part is altogether pestred with copped-hilles and therefore hath the name of Cop-land The middle is more leuell and better inhabited yeelding sufficient for the sustenance of man but the North is wilde and
solitary combred with hilles as Copland is 3 The ayre is piercing and of a sharpe temperature and would be more biting were it not that those high hilles breake off the Northerne stormes and cold falling snowes 4 Notwithstanding rich is this Prouince and with great varieties thereof is replenished the hilles though rough yet smile vpon their beholders spread with sheepe and cattle the vallies stored with grasse and corne sufficient the Sea affordeth great store of fish the land ouer-spread with varietie of fowles and the Riuers feed a kinde of Muskle that bringeth forth Pearle where in the mouth of the Irt as they lie gaping and sucking in dew the Country people gather and sell to the Lapidaries to their owne little and the buyers great gaine But the Mines Royall of Copper whereof this Country yeeldeth much is for vse the richest of all the place is at Keswick and Newland where likewise the Blacke Lead is gotten whose plentie maketh it of no great esteeme otherwise a commoditie that could hardly be missed 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Brigantes whom Ptolemie disperseth into Westmorland Richmond Durham York-shire and Lanca-shire But when the Saxons had ouer borne the Britaines and forced them out of the best to seeke their resting among the vast Mountaines these by them were entred into where they held play with those enemies maugre their force and from them as Mariama doth witnesse the Land was called Cumber of those Kumbri the Britaines But when the State of the Saxons was fore shaken by the Danes this Cumberland was accounted a Kingdome it selfe for so the Flower-gatherer of Westminster recordeth King Edmund saith he with the helpe of Leoline Prince of South-Wales wasted all Cumberland and hauing put out the eyes of the two sonnes of Dunmail King of that Prouince granted that Kingdome vnto Molcolm King of Scots whereof their eldest sonnes became Prefects This Prouince King Stephen to purchase fauour with the Scots what time he stood in most need of ayd confirmed by gift vnder their Crowne which Henry the second notwithstanding made claime vnto and got as Newbrigensis writeth and laid it againe in the Marches of England since when many bickerings betwixt these Nations herein haue hapned but none so sore against the Scotish side as was that at Sallome-Mosse where their Nobilitie disdaining their Generall Oliuer Sinclere gaue ouer the Battle and yeelded themselues to the English which dishonour pierâ—ed so deeply into the heart of King Iames the fift that for griefe thereof he shortly after died 6 Many memorable Antiquities remaine and haue beene found in this County for it being the Confines of the Romans Possessions was continually secured by their Garrisons where remaine aâ— this day parts of that admirable wall built by Seuerâ—s also another Fortification from Wâ—rkinton to Elus Mouth vpon the Sea-shoare toward Ireland by Stilico raised when vnder Theodosius he suppressed the rage of the Picts and Irish and freed the Seas of the Saxons Pirats Vpon Hard-knot hill Moresby Old Carleil Pap-castle along the Wall and in many other places their ruines remaine with altars and Inscriptions of their Captaines and Colonies whereof many haue beene found and more as yet lie hid 7 The chiefest Citie in this Shire is Carlile pleasantly seated betwixt the Riuers Eden Petterell and Caud by the Romans called Luguvallum by Beda Luell by Ptolemy Leucopibia by Nuâ—tuâ— Caer-Luâ—lid and by vs Carlile This Citie flourishing vnder the Romans at their departure by the furious outrages of the Scots and Picts was deiected yet in the dayes of Egfrid King of Northumberland was walled about but againe defaced by the ouer-running Danes lay buried in her owne ashes the space of two hundred yeares vpon whose ruines at length Rufus set his compassionate eye and built there the Castle planting a Colony of Flemings to secure the Coasts from the Scots but vpon better aduisement remoued them into Wales After him Henry his brother and successour ordained this Citie for an Episcopall See whose site is placed in the degree of Longitude from the first West part 17. and 2. scruples and the Pole thence eleuated from the degree of Latitude 55. and 56. scruples 8 West from hence at Burgh vpon the sand was the fatall end of our famous Monarch King Edward the first who there leauing his warres vnfinished against Scotland left his troubles and soone missed life to his vntimely and soone lamented death 9 And at Salkelds vpon the Riuer Eden a Monument of seuentie seuen stones each of them ten foot high aboue ground and one of them at the entrance fifteene as a Trophie of Victory was erected These are by the By-dwellers called Long Megge and her daughters NORTHVMBERLAND CHAPTER XLII THe County of Northumberland hath on the South the Bishopricke of Durham being shut in with the Riuer Derwent and with Tyne the North is confined vpon Scotland the West vpon part of Scotland and part of Cumberland the East-side lyeth altogether vpon the Sea called Mare-Germanicum 2 The forme thereof is Triangle and differs not much in the sidings for from her South-East vnto the South-West-point are neere vnto 40. miles from thence to 〈◊〉 North-point are sixty miles and her base along the Sea-shoare 45. miles The whole in circumâ—â—â—â— is about one hundred fortie fiue miles 3 The Ayre must needs be subtile and piercing for that the Northernly parts are most exposed to extremitie of weathers as great winds hard frosts and long lying of snowes c. Yet would it be farre more sharper then it is were not the Germane Seas a ready meanes to further the dissolution of her Ice and Snow and the plentie of Coales there gotten a great helpe to comfort the body with warmth and defend the bitter coldnesse 4 The Soile cannot be rich hauing neither fertilitie of ground for Corne or Cattle the most part of it being rough and in euery place hard to be manured saue onely towards the Sea and the Riuer Tyne where by the great diligence and industrious paines of good husbandry that part is become very fruitfull 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country mentioned by Ptolemie were called OTTALINI OTTADENI and OTTADINI which by an easie alteration as M. Cambden saith if it had â—ene called OTTATINI signifying about the Riuer Tyne or on the further side of Tyne 〈…〉 this people were planted there would haue beene much consonance both with the name of the Inhabitants and the Position and Site of the Prouince 6 The chiefest commoditie that enricheth this Countie are those Stones Linthancraces which we call Sea-coales whereof there is such plentie and abundance digged vp as they doe not onely returne a great gaine to the Inhabitants but procure also much pleasure and profit to others 7 No place of this Prouince vents forth so many of these Sea-coales into other regions as Newcastle doth being the very eye of all the Townes in this County for it doth not onely minister reliefe
the other part of the I le This place is called S. Michaelin the Vale where in former times stood a Priory or a Couent of religious persons the ruines whereof are at this day to be seene 8 The gouernment of this I le in nature and forme resembles the other of Iersey of whom shall be said The people in their Originall and Language alike also but in their customes and conditions they come neerer the ciuill fashions of the English Other matters of moment I finde not worthy to be recorded It hath ten Parishes and one Market-Towne being also a Hauen and is called S. Peters Port built close by the Peere and Castle Cornet IERSEY THe two Ilands Iersey and Garnsey being the onely remaines of the Dukedome of Normandie that in former times many yeares together was in the possession and vnder the command of the Kings of England annexing thereunto a large Territory and glorious title to the Crowne are both seated in the Sea called Mare Britannicum the Ocean parting them a good distant asunder and are now both adiuncts and within the circuit of Hampshire For the first being the Isle of Iersey it lyeth vpon the British Sea hauing on the North parts the coasts of Hampshire and on the South the Country of Normandy 2 This Iland is long not much vnlike the fashion of an Egge It containes in length from Sentwon Poole vpon the West to Mount Orguil Castle on the East ten miles and in bredth from Dubon point to Plymount-bay six miles the whole circuit of the Iland being thirtie eight miles It is distant from a little Iland called Alderney about foure leagues It was in old time called Caesaria whether from Iulius Octanius or any the other Caesars that followed is vnknowne But the French-men haue by corruption of speech long time called it Iersey 3 It is a very delightsome and healthfull Iland and giueth a pleasant aspect vnto the Seas It lyeth Southward not farre from a craggie ridge of rocks which is much feared of the Mariners and makes the passage that way very dangerous howbeit it serues for a forcible defence against Pirats or any strangers that attempt inuasion and they are termed Casquets 4 The Soile is very fertile bringing forth store of Corne and Cattle but especially of sheepe that are of reasonable bignesse the most of them bearing foure hornes a peece Their wooll very fine and white of which the Inhabitants make their Iersey stockings which are ordinarily to be had in most parts of England and yeeld a great commoditie vnto the Iland 5 The first originall of the Inhabitants sprung either from the Normans or Britaines or both They speake French though after a corrupt manner and haue continued their names language customes and Country without any or little intermixture these many hundred yeares hauing beene vnder the jurisdiction of the English euer since the vntimely and vnnaturall death of Robert Duke of Normandie eldest sonne to William the Conquerour 6 The people of this Country liue very pleasantly as well by the profits of the Land as the helpes and furtherances of the Sea that yeelds vnto them and especially in Summer season great store of fish but principally Conger and Lobsters the greatest and fattest vpon the coast of England Wood is very scant for their best fuell is Turffe some Coale they haue brought vnto them but it is very deare straw furre and ferne seruing their ordinary vses The middle part of the Iland hath many prety Hils rising in it yeelding a delightfull obiect vnto the vallies that receiue from one another a mutuall pleasure 7 The Gouernour of the I le is the Captaine thereof who appointeth certaine Officers vnder him the principall of whom carrieth the name and title of a Bailiffe that in ciuill causes hath the assistance of twelue Iurats to determine of differences and minister Iustice in criminall matters seuen in matters of reason and conscience fiue Their twelue are chosen out of the twelue Parishes so that no man goeth further to complaine then to his owne Iurate in ordinary Controuersies but matters of moment and difficultie are determined before the Bailiffe in a generall meeting THE DESCRIPTION OF WALES CHAPTER I. ANtiquitie hath auouched that the whole Isle of Britaine was diuided into three parts The first and fairest lay contained within the French Seas the Riuers of Seuerne Dee and Humber called then â—â—oyger which name yet it retaineth in Wâ—â—sh in English called England The second part occupied all the land Northward from Humber to the Orkney Sea called by the Latines Mare Caledonium or Deucaledonium now famously knowne by the name of Scotland The third part was this lying betwixt the Irish Seas the Riuers Seuerne and Dee and was called Cambria which name doth yet continue with them though we the English call it Wales as the people Welshmen which is strange and strangers for so at this day the dwellers of Tyroll in the higher Germany whence our Saxons are said to haue come doe name the Italian their next neighbour a Welshman and his language Welsh 2 This opinion Verstegan doth altogether contradict rather iudging by the ancient Tentonicks tongue which the Germans spake and wherein the G. is pronounced for W. that these Saxons called them Gallish from the Goâ—les whence their originall proceeded rather then Wallish from strangers which he thinketh could not be considering their habitations â—o neere vnto them and that the like was in vse he proueth by the words of French Gardian for Wardian Corangalles for 〈◊〉 yea and Galles for Wales calling our most famous Edward Prince of Galles not Prince of Wales insomuch that the County of Lombardy bordering along vpon the Germans was of them called Gallia Cis-alpina and at this day Welsh-land So likewise doe the Netherlanders call the Inhabitants of Henalâ— and Artois Wallen or Wallons and some parts of Brabanâ— and Flanderâ— Welsh-Brabanâ— and Welsh-Flanders and all because of the language or lineage of the Gaules Neither do the meere Natiues of Wales know any other name of their Country then Cambria of themselues then Cambri or Cumri or of their language then Cambraoc But leauing this opinion free to his affection we will proceed 3 Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britaines all the plaine and champion Country ouer the Riuer d ee and especially Offa King of Mercia made their limits straiter by making a ditch of great bredth depth to be a Meere betwixt his Kingdome and Wales This ditch is in many places to be seene at this day and beares the name of Clawâ— Offa that is Offaes Ditch The Country betweene it and England is commonly called the Marches and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen especially in North-Wales euen to the Riuer Dee This admirable Trench began at Bassingwerke in Flintshire betweene Chester and Ruthlan and ran along the hils to the South Sea a little from Bristow
the longest against the Romanes and their necks not brought vnder the yoke of bondage before the dayes of King Edward the first since when they haue attempted to east off their subiection to the English vpon whose stirres raised by Owin Glendouer who hauing beene a fauorite of King Richard the second and discontented by King Henry the fourth in a quarrell with the Lord Grey of Ruthin that intruded vpon his demaines quarrelled with the King and entred into open rebellion and confederacie with all other his rebels drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side in hope to haue had Princes restored of their owne bloud and he maintained the same with wonderfull pride policie and obstinacie for a long time vntill his consederates followers and fauorates and his owne courage credit and maintenance were brought so low by that powerfull King that in the end he perished for very want of food 5 Their Townes are not many neither those that they haue of any stately buildings whereof Bala â—olgethe and Harlech are the Markeâ—◠〈…〉 in the North-east of this Countie in the Welsh 〈◊〉 in English Piâ—â—â—le-meane a great poole of water doth drowne at least eight score Acres of ground whose 〈…〉 the high land flouds though neuer so great cannot 〈…〉 bigger by their 〈…〉 but if the 〈◊〉 beâ—â—oubled with ouer great blasts and tempests of wiâ—des she in as great a rage riseth and passeth her bankes as if she would encounter that enemy in fight Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretie sharpe streame entreth and thorow the same glideth without any mixture of the same water as the Inhabitants beleeue more strongly conceited in their opinion for that the Salmon vsually taken in Dee is neuer found in that Poole and the fish called Guimad bred in that Meart neuer is seene in the Riuer Dee South thence neere Dolgelhr in a lower hill a great Rampire of stone and compasse is seene and hath beene some fortification or defence in warre which whilst we were curious to finde out some instructions thereof by report this onely we learned that it was called Caddoryrita Dren according to the name of her neighbour and farre higher hill 6 Vpon the West and Sea-shore of this Shire Harlech a Market and Major Towne standeth bleake enough and barren but onely for Fowle and Fish houses not many neither curiously built wherein standeth a little Chappell decayed and without vse in which lyeth buryed Sir Richard Thimblebye an English Knight who for the delight he tooke in that game remoued his abode from a farre better soyle Here also standeth a most strong and beautifull Castle mounted vpon a hill and with a double Bulwarke walled about commanding the Sea and passage of entrance of such as seeke to inuade the Goast And surely a great pitie it is to see so faire a worke fall to decay the Constable whereof by Patent is euer the Major of this Towne neere vnto which are two great Inlets of Seas which at low water may be passed vpon the Sands with Guides Vpon whose shore as vpon the Sea-coasts in this Countie abundance of Herrings are caught for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the yeare by many people from diuers Countries DENBIGH-SHIRE CHAPTER XI DENBIGH-SHIRE called in Welsh Sire Denbigh retyring more from the Sea within the Countrey on this side of the Riuer Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the Riuer Dee on the North first the Sea for a small space and then Plint-shire encompasseth it on the West Caernaruon and Merioneth-shire on the East Cheshire and Shrop-shire and on the South Mountgomery-shire 2 The forme thereof is long growing wider still towards the North-west and narrower towards the East It is in length from East to West one and thirtie miles and in bredth from North to South seauenteene miles in the whole circuit and circumference one hundred and fourteene miles 3 The ayre is very wholesome and pleasant yet bleake enough as exposed to the windes on all sides and the high hilles wherewith it is in many places enuitoned long retaining the congealed snow The tops whereof in the Summer time are the haruest-mens Almanacks by the rising of certaine vapours thereon in the mornings and foreshew a faire day ensuing 4 The soyle is but barren towards the West part yet the middle where it lieth flat in a valley is most fertile The East side when it is once past the valley findeth Nature to be a very sparing niggard of her sauours but next vnto Dee it feeleth a more liberall extent of her blessings The West part is but here and there inhabited and mounteth vp more then the other with bare and hungry hilles yet the leanesse of the soyle where the hils settle any thing flatting hath beene now a good while begun to be ouercome by the diligent paines and carefull industry of the husbandmen for they paring away the vpper coat of the earth into certaine Turffes with a broad kinde of spade pile them vp artificially on heapes and fire them so as being turned into ashes and throwne vpon the ground so pared they fructifie the hungry barrennesse and sterilitie of soyle and make the fields bring forth a kinde of Rie or Anull-corne in such plentie as is hardly to be beleeued 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Countrey were the Ordouices who being also named Ordeâ—ices or Ordoâ—icae a puissant and couragious people by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place and tooke heart euen of the soyle it selfe for they continued longest free from the yoke both of Roman and also of English dominion They were not subdued by the Romans before the dayes of the Emperor Domitian for then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation nor brought vnder the command of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first but liued a long time in a lawlesse kinde of libertie as bearing themselues bold vpon their owne magnanimitie and the strength of the Country 6 The Mountaines of this County yeeld sufficiency of Neat Sheepe and Goats The Vallies in most places are very plenteous of Corne especially Eastward on this side betwixt the Riuers of Alen and Dee but the more Westerly part is heathy and altogether barren The heart of the Shire shewes it selfe beneath the hilles in a beautifull and pleasant Vale reaching seauenteene miles in length from South to North and fiue miles or thereabouts in bredth and lieth open onely toward the Sea It is enuironed on euery side with high hilles amongst which the highest is Moâ—llenlly on the top whereof is a warlike Fense with Trench and Rampier and a little fountaine of cleare water From these hilles the Riuer Cluyd resorts vnto this Vale and from the very spring-head increased with beckes and brookes doth part it in twaine running thorow the midst of it whereof in ancient time it was named Strat Cluyd for Mariamâ—s maketh mention of a King of the Strat Cluyd of
the Welsh And at this day it is commonly called Diffryn Cluyd that is The Vale of Cluyd This thing is worthy obseruation as a matter memorable both for admiration and antiquitie that in the Parish of Llan-sanan within this Country there is a place compasse cut out of the maine rocke by mans hand in the side of a stony hill wherein there be foure and twentie seats to sit in some lesse some bigger where children and young men comming to seeke their Cattell vse to sit and to haue their sports And at this day they commonly call it Arthurs round Table 7 Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne obtaining Denbigh by the grant of King Edward the first after the conuiction and beheading of Dauid brother of Llewellin for high Treason was the first that fortified it with a wall about not large in circuit but very strong and on the South-side with a faire Castle strengthned with many high Towers But he gaue it ouer and left the worke vnfinished conceiuing griefe as a sorrowfull father that his onely sonne came to vntimely death and was drowned in the Well thereof The fame of this Towne spreads it selfe farre for repute as being reckoned the most beautifull place in all North-Wales and it is of no lesse report for the Castle adiunct vnto it is impregnable for fortification And this strange accident happning there in the yeare 1575 deserues not to be omitted being left as a continuall remembrance of Gods mercifull prouidence and preseruation at that time that whereby reason of great Earth-quakes many people were put into great feare and had much harme done vnto them both within and without their hoâ—ses in the Cities of Yorke Worcester Glocester Bristow Hertford and in other Countries adiacent yet in the Shire-hall of Denbigh the bell was caused to toll twice by the shaking of the earth and no hurt or hindrance at all either done or receiued The gouernment of this Towne is managed by two Aldermen and two Bailiffes who are yearely elected out of twentie fiue burgestes that are their assistants It hath one Recorder one Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants at Mace and by obseruation of the Mathematickes the Pole is eleuated in the degree of Latitude 53. and 49. scruples and from the first point in Longitude 16. and 45. 8 This County with them of Flint and Carâ—arâ—on-shires are not diuided by prickes into their seuerall Hundreds according to the rest of this worke the want of their particulars in the Parlament Rowles so causing it which for the good of these three Shires I earnestly sought to haue supplied from the Nomina Villarum in their Sheriffes bookes and had promise of them that might easily haue procured the same But whether a fearelesse jealousie possessed their spirits left the riches of these Shires by reuealing such particulars should be further sought into I cannot say yet this I haue obserued in all my Suruey that where least is to be had the greatest feares are possessed Take these Shires therefore to be done as I could and not as I would that wish both the wealth of them all and their esteeme to be of better regard by those that may doe them good 9 This Shire then is diuided into twelue Hundreds for the readier ordering of businesses necessary to the State of the Country wherein are placed three Market-Townes fit for buying and selling and other negotiations It hath fiue Castles to defend her selfe and to offend her enemies and fiftie seauen Parishes for Gods diuine seruice and worship FLINT-SHIRE CHAPTER XII FLINT-SHIRE stretching out in length broad at one end and narrow at another is not much vnlike in fashion to a wedge a peece of which is cut off by the meeting of Cheshire and Denbigh-shire South-East in distance some foure miles It borders East-ward with part of Cheshire from whence it is guarded in length with the Riuer Dee vnto the North which parteth Worrall and Flint-shire till you come to a little Iland called Helâ—bree Northward it is bounded with the Virgiuian Sea on the West a little Riuer called Cluyd parteth her and Denbigh-shire asunder and on the South altogether by Shrop-shire 2 This Country is nothing mountainous as other parts of Wales are but rising gently all along the Riuer of Dee makes a faire shew and prospect of her selfe to euery eye that beholds her as well vpon the Riuer being in most places thereabouts foure or fiue miles broad as vpon the other side thereof being a part of Cheshire 3 The Aire is healthfull and temperate without any foggie clouds or fennie vapours sauing that sometimes there ariseth from the Sea and the Riuer Dee certaine thicke and smoky-seeming mists which neuerthelesse are not found hurtfull to the Inhabitants who in this part liue long and healthfully 4 The Clime is somewhat colder there then in Cheshire by reason of the Sea and the Riuer that engirts the better part of her by which the Northerne windes being long carried vpon the waters blow the more cold and that side of the Country vpward that lieth shoaring vnto the top hauing neither shelter nor defence receiueth them in their full power and is naturally a Bulwarke from their violence vnto her bordering neighbours that maketh the snow to lie much longer there then on the other side of the Riuer 5 The Soile bringeth forth plentie both of Corne and Grasse as also great store of Cattle but they be little To supply which defect they haue more by much in their numbers then in other places where they be bigger Great store of Fish they take in the Riuer of Dee but little from the Sea by reason they haue no Hauens or Creekes for boats No great store of woods either there or in any other part of Wales are found it hauing beene a generall plague vnto all the Country euer since the head-strong rebellions of their Princes and great men against the Kings of England that in time tooke away the principall helpes of their Innouations by cutting downe their woods whereof in this Shire there hath heretofore beene great plentie Fruits are scarce but milke butter and cheese plentie as also store of hony of the which they make a pleasant wine in colour like in taste not much vnlike vnto Muskadine which they call Mathegliâ— Yea and in the dayes of Giraldus Cambrensis neere the place now called Holy-well was a rich Mine of Siluer in seeking after which men pierced and pried into the very bowels of the earth 6 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordouices a sturdie people against the Romans but now most kinde and gentle towards the English and indeede make much of all strangers except they be crossed and then they are the contrary 7 Places of defence are the Castles of Flint Hawarden vulgarly Harden Treer Rudland Mold Yowley and Hope of which Flint and Harden are the two principall The Castle of Flint famous for the benefit it receiued from two Kings and for the refuge and reliefe
it gaue vnto the third It was founded by Henry the second finished by Edward the first and long after gaue harbour and entertainment to that noble but vnfortunate Prince Richard the second comming out of Ireland being within her walles a free and absolute King but no sooner without but taken prisoner by Henry Bullingbrooke Duke of Lancaster losing at that time his libertie and not long after his life This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53. 55. minutes in Longitude 17. For the Castle of Hawarden no record remaines of the first founder but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earles of Chester Howbeit their resistances did not so generally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications as in their Mountaines and Hils which in times of danger serued as naturall Bulwarkes and Defences vnto them against the force of enemies As was that which standeth in a certaine strait set about with woods neere vnto the Riuer Alen called Coles-hull that is Coles-hill where the English by reason of their disordered multitude not ranged close in good array lost the field and were defeated when King Henry the second had made as great preparation as might be to giue battle vnto the Welsh and the very Kings Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex who was Standard-bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance 8 This Country hath many shallow riuers in it but none of fame and note but d ee and Cluyde Howbeit there is a Spring not farre from Rudland Castle of great report and antiquitie which is termed Fons Sacer in English Holy-Well and is also commonly called S. Winefrids Well of whom antiquitie thus reporteth That Winefrid a Christian Virgin very faire and vertuous was doated vpon by a young lustfull Prince or Lord of the Country who not long able to rule his head-strong affections hauing many times in vaine attempted and tryed her chastitie both by rich gifts and large promises could not by any meanes obtaine his desires he therefore in a place of aduantage suddenly surprized and rauished her weake yet resisting body After the deed done the cruell Tyrant to stop her cries and acclamations slew her and cut off her head out of which place did suddenly arise a Spring that continueth to this day carrying from the Fountaine such a forcible streame and current as the like is not found in Christendome Ouer the head of the Spring there is built a Chappell of free stone with Pillars curiously wrought and engraued in the Chancell whereof and glasse window the picture of the Virgin is drawne together with the memoriall of her life and death To this Fountaine Pilgrims are accustomed to repaire in their zealous but blind deuotion and diuers others resort to bathe in holding firmely that the water is of much vertue There be many red stones in the bottome of this Well and much greene mosse growing vpon the sides the superstition of the people holding that those red spots in the stones were drops of the Ladies bloud which all the water in the Spring can neuer wash away and that the mosse about the wall was her haire which though some of it be giuen to euery stranger that comes yet it neuer wasteth But howsoeuer this be carried for truth by the tradition of time the mosse it selfe smels exceeding sweet There is also hard by Kilken a small village within this Countie a little Well of no great note that at certaine times riseth and falleth after the manner of Sea-tydes 9 In the South part of this Country diuided from the rest is a place in some written Coppies of Antonine called Bouium which we now terme Banchor first a Citie and afterwards a Monastery of famous memory and the first that is read of in the world wherein as Beda saith were a great number of Monkes and them diuided into seauen Companies euery one hauing his seuerall Ruler assigned None of these Companies had lesse then three hundred persons deuoted to prayer and to get liuing by their owne labour for themselues and the poore although it hath long since beene vtterly ruinate so as now there is scarce seene the face and outward shew of a dead Citie or Monastery It hath onely the names of two Gates remaining one standing a mile distant from another and betwixt which the Riuer Dee now runneth where are often times found many pieces of Romane Coyne and other tokens of antiquitie But of these shall be more mention made in the following History Another like Monastry but of lesser account stood in the Vale beneath Varis a little Citie placed the Romans in the confines of this Shire and Deabigh-shire and vpon the Ranke of Elwy and Cluyd This the Britaines call 〈◊〉 of the Riuer the Englishmen Asuph of the Founder and the Historiographers Asphensis It is more famouse for antiquitie then for building o◠brauery for about the yeare 560 Kentigein Bishop of Glas◠being fled 〈◊〉 out of Scotland placed here a Bishops See and erected a Monastry gathering together 66◠in a religious brotherhood whereof 300. that were vnlearned gaue themselues to husbandrie and to worke within the Monastery the rest to prayer and meditations When he returned into Scotland he ordained Asaph a godly and vpright man to be gouernous ouer this Monastery of whom it tooke the name and is called Saint Asaphs Another Monastry of great account was at Basingwarke in this County neere vnto which began that admirable Ditch drawne thence vnto the mouth of 〈◊〉 by King Offa the Tract whereof I haue expressed thorow this Shire and will further speake thereof in the following History ANGLESEY CHAPTER XIII ANGLESEY was in the time of the Romans called Mona by the Britaines Mon and Tir-Mon that is the Land of Mon of the ancient English-Saxons Moneg And at last after the Englishmen had by their sharpe and seuerall assaults brought it vnder their rules and became Lords thereof it was termed Anglesey as one would say The Englishmens Iland 2 For an Iland it is albeit it be seuered from the Continent of Britaine but with a small and narrow streight of the riuer Menai and on all other parts beaten vpon with the surging and troublous Irish Sea in which it lyeth somewhat square-wise not much different in length and breadth being where it reacheth out in length from Beau-marish Eastward to the vtmost Promontory West-ward which we call Holy-head twentie miles and in breadth from Llanbaderik North-ward to the point of Menai South-ward seauenteene miles the whole circuit or circumference amounting towards seauentie miles 3 The aire is reasonable gratefull and healthfull and not generally subiect to diseases excepting certaine Agues at some times which are occasioned by the sogs and misty exhalations which arise from the Sea called Mare Virginium with the which this Ile is encompassed 4 The Commodities that commend or rather beautifie this Country are in Corne and Cattle wherewith it not onely enricheth it selfe exceedingly
who trauelled through these Ilands reporteth are three Tombes hauing the seuerall Inscriptions of the Kings of Scotland of Ireland and of Norway 19 Among these Westerne Ilands the Hebrides Skie Mula Ila and Arran are the greatest All of them plentifull of Corne Woods Salmons and Fâ—errings as others of Conies Deere Horses and Sheepe where in some they are wilde and in others without any owners but the people vnciuill and lacking Religion they rather liue rudely in state of necessitie then as Lords of these portions which God hath allotted them and with a sufferable ease ignorant of ambition enioy those contentments which some others though they no great summe doe more laboriously attaine vnto by the precepts of Philosopie for feeding themselues with competencie without any excesse they returne all the ouer-plus vnto their Lords as doe the Inhabitants of Hirta and Rona but alas Religion not knowne among them these penurious vertues are rather the curses of Cham then the followings of Christ who forbids vs to be too carefull for the morrow 20 The Iles of Orkenay vpon the North of Scotland lying in a most raging and tempestuous Sea are about three and thirtie in number whereof thirteene are inhabited and the other replenished with Cattle in these are no venomous Serpents nor other vgly vermin the aire sharpe and healthfull and the soile apt to beare onely Oats and Barley but not a sticke of wood among these Pomonia is the greatest accounted and called the Maine-land affording sixe Minerals of Lead and Tinne and in her chiefe Towne a Bishops See wherein are seated twelue Parish-Churches one of them very magnificent for so remote a Country 21 Of all the Romanes Iulius Agricola first discouered the Orkenays yea and subdued them if we will beleeue Tacitus but Pomponius Mela that wrote thirtie yeares before him doth mention them and Iuuenal in Hadrians time after him tels vs the Romanes had won them and lastly Claudian nameth Saxons that were slaine in them and so doth Ninius name Octha and Ebissus Saxon Commanders who in their rouing Pinnaces wasted the Orknays These Ilands Donald Bane the vsurper of the Scotish Crowne gaue to the King of Norway for his assistance and by the Norwegians were they held the space of an hundred and sixtie yeares vntill that Alexander the third King of Scotland with sword and composition got them from Magnus the fourth King of Norway which afterward King Haquin confirmed vnto King Robert Bruce but lastly Christian the first King of Norway and Denmarke vtterly renounced all his right to those Ilands when he gaue his daughter in marriage vnto King Iames the third which deed was further ratified by the Pope who openeth the way to the possession of Kingdomes with his owne key IRELAND DESCRIBED CHAPTER I. THe Traditions of time haue deliuered vnto vs diuers names whereby this famous Iland is recorded to haue beene called yet none of more faire probabilitie then that of Orpheus Aristotle and Claudian by whom it is named Ierna by Iuuenal and Mela called Iuuerna by Diodorus Siculus Iris by Martian of Heraclea Ioyepnia by Eustachius Oyernia and Bernia by the natiue Inhabitants Eryn by the Britaines Yuerdon the Welsh-Bards in their Ballads Tiruolas Totidanan and Banno and by the English Ireland But from whence these diuersities were deriued arise many opinions Doubtlesse it is that Hibernia Iuuerna and Ouernia came from Ierna spoken of by Oâ—pheus and Aristotle and the same Ierna as also Iris Iuerdhon and Ireland from Erin the terme that the Inhabitants now vse From this Erin therefore a word proper to the Nation the originall is most likely to be deduced 2 Some deriue Hiberâ—â—a from Hiberno tempore that is from the winter season some from Hiberus a Spaniard some from a Duke named Irnalph some againe from the ancient Riuer Iberus and 〈◊〉 from Hiere an Irish word which signifieth the west or a westerne coast whence Erin may also seeme to setch the deriuation for it lieth furthest Westward of any Region in all Europe As also for that the Riuer running in the most remote west-part of this Iland is in Ptolemy called Iernus like as the furthest Westerne Promontory in Spaine from whence our Irish men came is by Strabo called Ierne and the Riuer next vnto it by Mela Ierna yea and Spaine it selfe for the Westerne situation is called Hesperia the West-Cape of Africke Hesperium and in Germany Westrich and Westphaleâ— from their position haue their names Postelius a man that rather followed his owne fancy then the iudgement of others fetcheth the originall of Ireland from the Hebrewes as if Irin should be as much as Iurin that is the Iewes land which opinion I hold no better then those that would haue it from the Winter-like stormes although vpon euery winde the aire is cold there 3 Festus Auienus in that little booke which he entituled Ora maritima calleth Ireland Sacram Insulam that is the holy Iland to which opinion the people are soone drawne by reason of the many Saints that the Iland is said to produce and the blessed soile that affords no venomous creatures to retaine life It is thought that Plutarch meant Ireland by his Ogygia for her great antiquitie and of latter times by â—sidore and Bede it was called Scots of those Scots that inhabited it and that thence the name of Scotland together with the Scots themselues came into Britaine 4 For largenesse and circuit in times past this Iland challenged the third place in ranke of all the Iles of the then knowne world for thus haue Geographers left vs that the Indian Taprobaâ— for greatnesse was the first the I le of Britaine the next and this of Ireland the third and for that cause doth Ptolemy call it the little Britaine But how soeuer Strabo hath extended the bredth as broad as the length and others haue formed it in shape like an egge yet latter dimensions haue found it farre otherwise twice longer then broad and may be compared to the forelegge of a Beare if the Siâ—ile breed no offence Whose East-side hath on it that tempestuous Sea that cutteth her channell betwixt England and this Ireland the West is washed with the Westerne Ocean the North with the 〈◊〉 Caledonian and the South with the Vergiuian Sea 5 The aire of this Iland is delectable and wholesome though neither so cleere nor subâ—â—â— of England which as Mela saith is nothing fauourable for the ripening of Corâ—e but so gratefull to the ground that it causeth grasse to grow abundâ—ntly not onely fresh and long but withall very sweet for all Cattle and in Winter is more subiect to winde then snow and that I may vse the words of Giraldus It is of all Countries most temperate neither forcing the Inhabitants to seeke shade from the frying heat of Cancer nor the chilling cold of Capricorne to driue them to the fire but at all seasons most milde betwixt a sufferable cold and gentle warme heat 6 The soile
impure are not vnwholesome nor of long continuance the rough windes holding them in continuall agitation 4 This equall temperature causeth the ground to bring forth great store of seuerall Trees both fit for building and bearing of fruit plentifull of grasse for the feeding of Cattle and is abundantly furnished with Horses Sheepe and Oxen the Riuers likewise pay double tribute deepe enough to â—arry Vessels either for pleasure or profit and Fish great store both for their owne vses and commoditie of others Salmons in some Riuers of this County abound more in number then in any Riuer of Europe To speake in generall though in some places it be somewhat barren troubled with Loughes Lakes and thicke Woods yet is it euery where fresh and full of Cattle and forrage ready at all times to answer the husbandmans paines But nature is there so little beholding to Art or Industry that the various shew vpon bankes the shady groues the greene meadowes hanging hilles and fields fit for Corne if they were manured doe seeme to be angry with their Inhabitants for suffering all to grow wild and harbarous through their owne negligence 5 This Country in Ptolemies dayes was wholly possessed by the Volutij Darni Robogdji and Erdini who branched and spred themselues into the seuerall parts that Island 6 The people of this Prouince were accustomed in controuersies and solemne protestations to sweare by S. Patrickes Staffe which oath they feared more to breake then if they had sworne by the holy Euangelist Their ancient custome in making their King was this A white Cow was taken which the King must kill and seeth the same in water whole then must he bathe himselfe therein starke naked and sitting in the Cawdron wherein it was sod accompanied with his people round about him he and they vsed to eat the flesh and drinke the broath wherein he sate without cup or dish or vse of hand How farre these prescriptions and customes were different from the conformities of other ciuill Monarchies we may well perceiue by these and other like obseruations of those grosse times and as yet they are more barbarous then is any other part of the Island besides 7 Historians relating of Ireland tell of seuerall Islands in the seuerall Prouinces some full of Angels some full of Deuils some for male onely some for female some where none may liue some where none can die and such effects of trees stones and waters that a man but of easie conceit may well esteeme them as heedlesse as vncertaine So also S. Patrickes Purgatorie a thing of much note in the Tract of this Prouince is a vault or narrow caue in the ground 〈…〉 called Erne Liffer much spoken of by reason of I wot not what fearefull walking spirits and dreadfull apparitions or rather some religious horrour which as some ridiculously dreame was digd by Vlysses when he went downe to parley with those in hell This is the caue which the Inhabitants in these dayes call â—llanuâ— Frugadory that is The Isle of Purgatory and S. Patricks Pargatory for some persons lesse deuout then credulous affirme that S. Patricke or rather Patricius Secundus an holy Abbot of that name labouring the conuersion of the people of this Prouince and much inforcing the life to come they replied contemptuously vnto him that vnlesse they saw proofes of those joyes and paines he preached they would not lose the possession of their present pleasures in hope or feare of things to come they wist not when Whereupon as they say he obtained at Gods hands by earnest prayer that the punishments and torments which the godlesse are to suffer after this life might be there presented to the eye that so he might more easily root out the sinnes and Heathenish errours that stucke so fast in the hearts of the Irish But touching the credit hereof although common fame and some records doe vtter it I neither will vrge the beliefe nor regard seeing it is no Article of our Creed 8 Matters memorable within this Prouince are these first that the Bishops of Ireland were wont to be consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury in regard of the 〈◊〉 which they had in this Country vntill such time as Iohn Papâ—â—â— a Cardinall was sent thither from Popâ— Eugenius the fourth to reforme Ecclesiasticall discipline in this Iland which 〈…〉 so looâ—â— that there were translations and pluralities of Bishops according to the 〈◊〉 and pleasure of the Metropolitane Also that the Irish-men were accustomed to leaue and forsake 〈◊〉 wedded wiues at their owne free willes whereof Lanfrancke Archbishop of Canterbury complained vnto Theraeluaâ— a King of Ireland And had not this Nation beene corrupted with this vice euen vnto these our dayes both the right of lineall succession had beene more certaine among them and the Gentry and Comminaltie had not in such cruelties imbrued themselues with such effusion of their owne kindreds bloud about their inheritances and legitimation 9 The principall place in this Tract is Armagh neere vnto the Riuer Kalin which albeit it maketh a poore shew is the Archiepiscopall See and Metropolitane of the whole Island Before Saint Patricke had built there a faire Citie for site forme quantitie and compasse modelled out as he saith by the appointment and direction of Angels this place was named Drumfalrch the Irish tell much that it receiued the name of Queene Armacha but the better opinions are that it is the same which Bede calleth Dearmach and out of the Scotish and Irish language interpreteth it The Field of Oakes Here as S. Bernard writeth S. Patricke the Apostle of Ireland ruled in his life time and rested after death in honor of whom it was of such venerable estimation in old time that not onely Bishops and Priests but Kings also and Princes were in generall subiect to the Metropolitane thereof in all obedience and to his gouernment alone Among the Archbishops of this Prouince S. Malachy is famoused who first prohibited Priests marriage in Ireland and as S. Bernard saith who wrote his life at large borrowed no more of the natiue barbarousnesse of that Country then Sea-fishes doe saltnesse of the Seas Also Richard Fitz Ralf commonly called Armachanus is of famous memory who turning the edge of his stile about the yeare 1355. began to oppose his opinion against the Order of Mendicant Friers as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging The chiefe Fort in this Tract is Enis Kelling defended by the Rebels in the yeare 1593 and wonne by Dowdall a most valiant Captaine neere vnto which is a great downfall of water termed The Salmon Leape of which there is a common speech currant among the Inhabitants that it was once firme ground very populous and well husbanded with tillage till it was suddenly ouer flowne with waters and turned into a Lake for some filthy abominable acts of the people against Nature committed with beasts 10 The places of Religion sequestred from other worldly seruices and consecrated to holy purposes erected in this Prouince were The Abbey which sheweth it selfe at Donegal The Monastery of Derie where the Irish Rebell Shane O-Nâ—al receiued such an ouerthrow by Edward Randolph renowned for his seruice in the behalfe of his Country that he could neuer after recouer the losse he sustained at that time The Monastery neere vnto the Riuer Laffer The famous Monastery at the Bay of Knockfergus of the same institution name and order as was that ancient Abbey in England neere vnto Chester called Danchor Also Mellifont Abbey founded by Donald a King of Vriel and much commended by S Bernard And lastly the most renowned Monastery built at Armagh in the yeare of our Saluation 610. out of which very many Monasteries were afterwards propagate both in Britaine and Ireland These places were farre and neere frequented and sought vnto by great confluences of Pilgrims till Time proued their deuotions to be erronious and the pure light of the word reuealed opening the eyes of their vnderstanding hath taught them to shake off the shame of such Superstitions 11 That the people of this County might be kept within the bounds of their dutie this Prouince hath beene secured with fiftie sixe Castles and Forts and for trade of commerce nine Market-Townes appointed being diuided into these Counties ensuing Counties Dunghall or Tyr-connell Vpper Tyrone Nether Tyrone Fermanagh Canan Monaghan Colrane Autrim Downe Armagh Lough FINIS The Table to find the Maps as appeareth by folio ENgland Scotland and Ireland 1 England 2 Kent 3 Sussex 4 Surrey 5 Southhampton 6 The Isle of Wight 7 Dorcetshire 8 Deuon-shire 9 Cornewall 10 Somersetshire 11 Wiltshire 12 Barkeshire 13 Middlesex 14 Essex Countie 15 Suffolke 16 Norfolke 17 Cambridgeshire 18 Hartfordshire 19 Bedfordshire 20 Buckinghamshire 21 Oxfordshire 22 Glocestershire 23 Merefordshire 24 Worcestershire 25 Warwickeshire 26 Northamptonshire 27 Huntingtonshire 28 Rutlandshire 29 Leicestershire 30 Lincolneshire 31 Nottinghamshire 32 Darbishire 33 Staffordshire 34 Shropshire 35 Chester 36 Lancashire 37 Yorkeshire 38 The Bishopricke of Durham 39 Westmorland Cumberland 40 Northumberland 41 The Isle of Man 42 Holy 〈…〉 Wales 44 Pembrokeshire 45 Radnor Breknock Cardigan and Caâ—rmarden described 46 Glamorganshire 47 Monmouthshire 48 Montgomery c. 49 Denbigh and Flint described 50 Anglesey and Carnarâ—an 51 The Kingdome of Scotland 52 The Southyart of Scotland 53 The Southern part of Scotland 54 The Easterne part of Scotland 55 Part of Scotland Stranauern 56 The Isles of Hebrides 57 Cathanes and Orknay 58 Ireland Described 59 Mounster 60 Leinster 61 Connaught 62 Vlster 〈◊〉 MIDIA