built like the rest in Hessen Phellip his grandfather built the castle and William his father the wals For my dinner and my part for the coach-man I paide the fourth part of a Doller In the afternoone we passed two miles through woody mountaines to Myndaw in the territory of the Duke of Brunswike who is also Lord of the City The Riuer Visurgis runnes by it ouer which there is a bridge of stone vpon fiue Arches Here each man paid for himselfe and his part for the coach-man seuen maria-groshen for meat and as much for wine The beere of this territory is very bitter and like a potion makes one laxatiue The fifth day we passed three miles and a halfe through Mountaines for halfe the way and the rest through corne fields most fruitfull and dined at Norton each man paying fiue batzen and a halfe After dinner we passed two miles and a halfe to a poore Village through a like fruitfull plaine of corne and by the way we passed Namerton a City belonging to the Duke of Brunswicke In this Village each man paid fiue Maria-groshen The sixt day we passed two miles to the City Zeason through hils and fields of corne the building of the City is of meere clay couered with thatch but our diet was plentifull and each man paid sixe Maria-groshen for himselfe and his part for the Coach-man After dinner we passed three miles to a poore village through wooddy mountaines yet fruitfull of corne and pasture and through a great Fen and here each man paid seuen Maria-groshen The seuenth day we passed three miles to Brunswike through a fruitfull plaine of corne end a large Fen set with willow trees neere the City Many fields as we came besides the corne were set with cabage and rootes and within a mile of Brunswike we left on the right hand toward the South the City Wolfenbieten where the Duke of Brunswike keepes his Court and though he be so called of an old title yet he is not Lord of Brunswike which is a free City of the Empire seated in a plaine all the territory round about it being most fruitfull in corne The City is of a quadrangle forme and in circuit containes two miles being held greater then Nurnberg and lesse then Erford It hath high wals of earth fastened with willowes and is very strong hauing the wals on some sides double and otherwhere treble besides that it hath a wooddy valley between deepe ditches filled with water and is compassed with the Riuer Aneur Within this wall and riuer are fiue Cities distinguished by priuiledges but vnited by lawes The first seated towards the west is called Altstat that is Old city hauing almost at the entrance a faire market place and neere it the cathedrall Church called Martinstifft The second lying towards the North is called Newstat that is New city The third lying towards the East is called Imsacke The fourth lying towards the South is called Imhagen And the fifth which was built first of all and lieth also towards the South is called Altweg that is The old way This city of old was the metropolitan city of Saxony and had the name of Bruno and the Dutch word Vuick signifying a Village It hath twelue Churches whereof two haue the steeples couered with lead which being very rare in Germany is held to be magnificent the rest are couered with tiles one excepted which to my remembrance is couered with brasse which being lesserare with them is lesse esteemed and the houses are built of timber and clay In the yard of the Cathedrall Church there is the statua of a very great Lion which the Emperour Henry the first surnamed Lyon erected there From Branswike I went to Luneburge and the first day in the morning passed foure miles to a certaine Village through a sandy plaine and fenny wild ground and by the way we passed Getherne a village where the Duke of Luneburge Lord of this territory hath a Castle and he holds his court some fiue miles off at Sell. Here each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubecke shillings In the afternoone we passed fiue miles to a countrey house through like Fenny and woody wild grounds seeing but one Village in the way and here each man paid for supper three Lubecke shillings Next morning we passed foure miles to a Village Empsdorff through like grounds and here each man paid for dinner fiue Lubecke shillings the coach-mans part being reckoned for I formerly said that hiring a Coach from Franckfort to Hamburg we were tied to pay for the coach-mans diet himselfe paying for his horse-meat as commonly they doe After dinner we passed three miles to Luneburge through a soyle as barren as the former where each man paid for himselfe and his part of the coach-mans supper eight Lubecke shillings I speake nothing of the City which I haue described before but goe on with my iourney The next morning we passed three miles to Wintzon through a Fenny ground and woods of Oake yeelding some corne but sparingly and here our coach-man paid a Lubecke shilling for his Coach to the Duke of Luneburge whose territory endeth here Then we passed a mile further to Bergendorff and by the way our coach-man passing ouer the Elue paid a Lubecke shilling to the Officers of the Cities of Lubecke and Hamburg to which Cities this territory is subiect and gouerned by them in course the soyle whereof after the passage of the Elue is more fruitfull the fields being full of corne and ditches of water planted with willowes here each man paid six Lubecke shillings for our dinners In the afternoone we passed three miles to Hamburge hauing on the left side towards the West faire pastures and on the right hand towards the East woods of oake and fruitfull hils of corne From hence I passed by boat with a faire wind in three houres to Stode and paid for my passage three Lubeck shillings These things I briefly set downe hauing described these Cities before From Stode I wrote this Letter to Francis Markham an English gentleman whom I left at Heidelberg NOble Sir I gladly take this occasion of witnessing my loue to you which in a word I haue done omitting all ceremonies as your selfe haue giuen me example Onely for my promise sake I will trouble you with the short relation of my iourney When we parted at Eranckfort you know I had for companions of my iourney two Flemmings poore Merchants of Linnen cloth and a Dutch Rider and a Booke-binder of Denmarke I comming first to the Coach tooke the most commodious seat which these my worthy companions forsooth tooke in ill part yet neither their murmuring nor rude speeches could make me yeeld the place to them Wee passed through Hessen to Brunswike which iourney since you purpose to take I aduise you to passe as soone as you can that you may be out of your paine and come to more pleasant Countries for there you shall haue grosse meat sower
village Starres and wee passed through goodly cornehils and faire woods of firre and birtch The City Misen is round in forme and almost all the houses are built on the falling sides of Mountaines which compassing all the City open towards the East where Elue runneth by Duke Fredericke surnamed The wise and Duke George surnamed papisticall are buried in the Cathedrall Church Here I paid six grosh euery meale The City is subiect to the Duke of Saxony hauing the same name with the whole Countrey in which it lieth Hence wee went three miles to Dresden in a Coach hired as aforesaid and passed through sandy and stony Hils some fruitfull vallies of corne and two Woods of firre whereof there bee many neere Dresden whither being come I paied sixe grosh for my dinner This City of Dresden is very faire and strongly fortified in which the Elector of Saxony keepes his Court hauing beene forty yeeres past onely a village When the first stone of the wals was laid there were hidden a siluer cup guilded a Booke of the Lawes another of the coynes and three glasses filled with wine the Ceremonies being performed with all kind of Musicke and solemnity The like Ceremony was vsed when they laid the first stone of the stable The City is of a round forme seated in a Plaine running betweene two Mountaines but some what distant and the houses are faire built of free stone foure or fiue roofes high whereof the highest roofe after the Italian fashion is little raised in steepnesse so that the tops of the houses appeare not ouer the walles excepting the Electors Castle built betwixt the North and West side and the Church Tower built betweene the West and East side In this Tower the watchmen dwell who in the day time giue notice by Flags hung out what number of foot or horse are comming towards the Towne To which Tower they ascend by two hundred seuenty staires and in the top two Demiculuerins are planted Wee entred on the East side through old Dresden being walled about and so passed the Elue compassing the walles of new Dresden on the East side by a Bridge of stone hauing seuenteene arches vnder which halfe the ground is not couered with water except it be with a floud Vpon the Bridge we passed three gates and at the end entred the City by the fourth where the garrison Souldiers write the names of those that come in and lead them to the Innes where the Hostes againe take their names The City hath but two little Suburbs The Citizens were then as busie as Bees in fortifying the City which the Elector then made very strong The ground riseth on all sides towards the Towne and the new City hath foure Gates Welsh-thore Siegeld-thore New-thore and Salomons-thore and is compassed with two walles betweene which round about there is a garden from which men may ascend or descend to it at each Gate Ouer the outward wall there is a couered or close Gallery priuate to the Elector who therein may compasse the Towne vnseene Hee hath vsed the best wits of Germany and Italy in this fortification wherein he hath spared no cost The walles are high and broad of earth whose foundation is of stone and they are on all sides furnished with great Artillery yea in that time of peace the streets were shut with iron chaines at eating times and all night The Electors stable is by much the fairest that euer I saw which I will briefly describe In the first Court there is a Horse-bath into which they may bring as much or little water as they list and it hath 22. pillars in each whereof diuers Armes of the Duke are grauen according to the diuers families whose Armes he giues The same Court serues for a Tilting-yard and all exercises of Horse-manship and there is also the Horse-leaches shop so well furnished as if it belonged to a rich Apothecary The building of the stable is foure square but the side towards the Dukes Pallace is all taken vp with two gates and a little Court yard which takes vp halfe this side and round about the same are little cuboords peculiar to the horsemen in which they dispose all the furniture fit for riding The other three sides of the quadrangle contained some 136. choise and rare Horses hauing onely two other gates leading into the Cities market place opposite to those gates towards the Court. These horses are all of forraine Countries for there is another stable for Dutch horses and among these chiefe horses one named Michael Schatz that is Michaell the Treasure was said to be of wonderfull swiftnesse before each horses nose was a glasse window with a curtaine of greene cloth to be drawne at pleasure each horse was couered with a red mantle the racke was of iron the manger of copper at the buttocke of each horse was a pillar of wood which had a brasen shield where by the turning of a pipe he was watered and in this piller was a cuboord to lay vp the horses combe and like necessaries and aboue the backe of each horse hung his bridleand saddle so as the horses might as it were in a moment be furnished Aboue this stable is a gallery on one side adorned with the statuaes of horses their riders with their complete Armours fifty in number besides many Armours lying by the wals On the other side is a gallery hauing forty like statuaes thirty six sledges which they vse in Misen not only to iourney in time of snow but also for festiuall pompes For in those Cities especially at Shrouetide and when much snow falleth they vse to sit vpon sledges drawne with a horse furnished with many bels at the foote of which sledge they many times place their Mistresses and if in running or sudden turning the rider or his Mistresse slip or take a fall it is held a great disgrace to the rider Some of these sledges are very sumptuous as of vnpurified siluer as it comes from the Mines others are fairely couered with velvet and like stuffes Aboue the forepart of the stable towards the market place are the chambers wherein the Elector feasts with Ambassadors In the window of the first chamber or stoue being a bay window towards the street is a round table of marble with many inscriptions perswading temperance such as are these Aut nulla Ebrietas aut tanta sit vt tibi cur as Demat. Be not drunken in youth or age Or no more then may cares asswage Againe Plures crapula quam ensis Gluttony kils more then the sword Yet I dare say that notwithstanding all these good precepts few or none euer rose or rather were not carried as vnable to goe from that table Twelue little marble chaires belong to this table and the pauement of the roome is marble and close by the table there is a Rocke curiously carued with images of fishes and creeping things This Rocke putteth forth many sharpe pinacles of stone vpon which the
whom we appoint successours to vs dying without heire Also there were these verses shewing by numerall letters the antiquity of Prage Vniuersity from the yeere 867. though the Colledges there about ruined scarce shew any shadow of this Vniuersity HaeC sChoLm qVo SLV I Das unno est erecta sub auras Ostenait rVbrae LItera picta notae The numerall great letters shew the yeere This vniuersall Schoole was founded here In the Church of the Emperours Castle these things are to be seene A faire Chappell named after the Emperours sister married to the French King and crowned Queene of the French Another Chappell belonging to the Barons called Popelij the greatest family of the Kingdome next to the Baron of Rosenberg which Chappell is proper to them for buriall and is dedicated to S t Andrew the Apostle In the Emperours Church is a Monument of Rodolphus the second then liuing Emperour built of white marble and compassed with grates of iron In the same place lie buried Charles the fourth in the yeere 1378. Wenceslaus in the yeere 1419. Ladislaus in the yeere 1459. Ferdinand the fourth in the yeere 1564. Maximillian the second in the yeere 1577. all being Arch-dukes of Austria and Emperours and George Pogiebrachius a Bohemian and King of Bohemia To all these is one Monument erected and that of small beauty In the same Church is the Monument of a Bishop who being the Queenes Confessour was cast into Molda because he would not reueale her confession to her husband Wenceslaus They doe so reuerence the Monument of this Bishop since made a Saint by the Pope as they thinke he shall die with shame that passeth by it without reuerence In Old Prage towards the South and vpon the East side of Molda there is an old Pallace where they shew a trap-doore by which the Queene was wont to slide downe into a Bath where shee vsed to satisfie her vnlawfull lust In the same place is grauen the leape of a horse no lesse wonderfull then Byards fabulous leape The House of Kelley a famous English Alcumist was of old a Sanctuary and built for an order of Friers vpon the gate whereof these verses are written Has aedes veterum fauor clementia Regum Omnibus exemptas Legibus esse dedit Audeat ergò iugum nemo his seruile minari Quos hic cum Vrabsky curat alitque Deus This house through old Kings Clemency Free from all Lawes no threats respects Dare not fright them with slauery Whom vnder God Vrabsky protects In the Senate house the City Armes are painted being a Castle with three Towers ore and two Lions argent Langed gules are the supporters and these Verses are written vpon the Armes Qui dedit haec veteri turrita insignia Pragae Omina venturae sortis amica dedit Mole sua vt celsae transcendunt moenia Turres Sic famum superas inclita Praga tuam Who so these towred Armes to old Prage gaue Gaue lucky signes of future happinesse For as the Towers ore top the walles most braue So Prage thou doest surpasse thy fame no lesse Not farre from Prage they say that the Crowne of the Kingdome is laid vp in Karlsteine Castle At Prage in Bethlem Church they shew a Pulpit in which Iohn Hus vsed to preach at the first reformation of Religion I liued at Prage some two moneths and being to depart from thence I would haue gone to Vienna the famous Fort against the Turkes but my desire to see Nurnberg and Augspurg so preuailed as I left that iourney which by chance happened better then I imagined for being called backe into the Low Countries as heereafter I shall relate I passed thence through Poland into Italy because France was shut vp by the ciuill warres and I euer shunned to goe twice one way and so had the opportunitie more fit then the former to see Vienna Now for their sakes who may passe from Prage to Vienna giue mee leaue to remember that in this way their is a Village called Chassel some nine miles from Prage where the famous Captaine of the Bohemians called Ziska lies buried who did lead the Hussites valiantly and being ready to die wished them to make a Drumme of his skinne ominating that the sound thereof would bee so terrible to the enemies as they would runne away such confidence had be in Armes as being dead he thought to terrifie his enemies In the beginning of the yeere 1592. I tooke my iourney from Prage to Nurnberg being sixe daies iourney The first day after dinner we went foure miles partly through rocky Mountaines partly through a fruitfull corne plaine and lodged at Berawn where a loafe of bread worth two third parts of a Creitzer was as big as a threepenny loafe in England by reason of the abundance of corne in that Country And heere each man paid for his supper fourteene Creitzers This Citie belongs to the family of the Poples The second day wee went foure miles to Zudermont all through Mountaines and Groues and two great Woods yet reasonably fruitfull in Corne and by the way we saw the City Bodly and the City Spil the fairest of that Kingdome next to Prage both belonging to the Emperour and two Castles belonging to the Barons Popeles and heere each man dined for sixteene Creitzers After dinner we went two miles to Pilsen halfe the way through Woods where is a little City Ruchtsan and halfe through Hils and Plaines fruitfull in Corne almost the whole Countrey of Bohemta being hilly and rich ground for Pasture and Corne and here we supped each man for twenty three Creitzers The third day wee went three miles to Kladen through pleasant Hils of Groues pasture and corne where each man dined for eighteene Creitzers After dinner we went three miles to Frawenberg through high Mountaines and great Woods hauing no great store of corne in all which territory the Cities and Villages acknowledge the Emperour for their supreme Lord as he is King of Bohemia For this Kingdome is not diuided as others be into Prouinces and Countries but into Noble-mens Territories Here we paied each man eight Creitzers for our supper and twelue for wine The fourth day wee went a mile and a halfe to a little riuer diuiding Bohemia or Boemerland from Germany through rocky Mountaines and many Woods of tall Fir trees fit to make Masts for Ships Then wee entred a Countrey belonging to that Elector Palatine of the Rheine which Elector is called vulgarly the Phaltz-graue and we came within halfe a mile to Weithawsan where each man dined for eighteene Creitzers After dinner we went two miles in the Phaltzgraues Countrey through woody Mountaines and one mile in the Landgraue of Leytenberg his Countrey through fruitfull corne fields and lodged at Shenhutton where each man paied six Creitzers for his supper and thirteene for wine For in these parts they drinke no beere as before but wine and that at a lower price then other where whether it bee natiue or
armes diuide the City and the Suburbs on that side are more strongly fortified then other where The City ioyned with the Suburbs is of a round forme and in the Suburbs on this side the Fugares haue built many houses to be let for a gulden yeerely to the poore that are Papists On the North side the wals are higher built and the ditches are deepe filled with water and there be foure other gates this side of the City lying lowest the fields without are as I said all drowned with water Here each man paid for each meale six or seuen Batzen I paid for two meales and my horse meat twenty three Batzen This City hath a very faire conduit called the Stately Workmanship vulgarly Statlich Kunst and the fountaine of the water is ten miles from the City There be ten very faire Churches In the Cathedrall Church it is written in golden letters that the bowels of Otho the Emperour are buried there Also there is a curious picture of Christ praying in the garden whilst his Disciples slept and vpon a very faire Clocke are three statuaes of the three Kings of Colen so they call the Wise Men of the East and these carried about by a circle of iron worship Christ when the Clocke strikes In the Senate House where the imperiall Parliaments vulgarly called Reichs-tagen haue often beene held I found nothing to answere the magnificence of this City onely on the gates this is written Wise men build vpon the Rocke Fooles vpon the Sand for I said this part of the City on the West side was built vpon a stony hill In the Iesuites Church the Altar is of siluer gilded ouer and another Altar of Christs Natiuity is curiously painted like the barks of trees Augsburg called of the Vandals for distinction from Augsburg Rauracorum in Sweitzerland is diuided from the Vandals by the Brooke Lycus and being of old a City of Rhetia now is reckoned the metropolitane City of Suenia vulgarly Schwaben is said said to haue beene built by the sonne of Iaphet sixe hundred yeeres before Rome was builded Of old they had a yeerely feast to Ceres and now vpon the same day they haue a Faire and for the fruitfulnesse of the soyle the City giues a sheaue of corne for their Armes This City was vtterly destroyed by Attila King of the Hunnes and when he was dead was rebuilt againe It is a free Citie of the Empire which are vulgarly called Retchs-statt and as other free Cities it is gouerned by Senators There bee many Almes houses for the poore and one wherein foure hundreth are nourished by rents of land and houses giuen to that house of old by good men The Citie is seated vpon the Northern mouth of the Alpes in a fruitfull plaine of corne and pastures and Hils full of game for hunting and it may bee gathered how populous it is by that a German Author writes that in a yeere when no plague raigned 1705 were baptized and 1227 buried Being constant in my purpose taken at Nurnberg to goe from Auspurge to the West parts of Germany and so into the Low-countries yet I wil remember the Reader that he shall finde the iourney from Augspurg to Venice described in my voyage from Stode to Venice and thence to Hierusalem From Augspurg I rode to Vlme and thence to Lindawe and all the way hired my horse for sixe or seuen Batzen a day paying for the daies in which my horse returned and hyring footmen to bring them backe and bearing their charges The first day I rode foure miles thorow the territory of the Fugars and the Bishop of Tilleng and one mile in the territory of the Arch-Duke of Austria of the house of Inspruch in a mountainous Countrey full of Woods of Iuniper Ashes Oakes and Beaches to Burg where each man paid for his dinner and horsemeat eight Batzen In the afternoone I rode foure miles to Vlme through a fruitfull plaine of corne Entring the City we passed by a Bridge the Riuer Danow which though running in a plaine yet hath a most violent course so as boats carried downe the streame vse to be sold at the place wherethey land it being very difficult to bring them backe again yet some Barkes of burthen are sometimes drawne backe by the force of horses My selfe haue seene tenne horses drawing one Barke but they vse a greater number according to occasion some thirty or more as they report and he that rides on the horse neerest the Barke is called Wage-halse that is Necke venturer because hce and the horse are often drawn vnder the water till the other horses draw them out again This Riuer hath foure great water fals vvhereof the greatest is at Struddle eighteene miles from Vienna vvhich is hardly to be passed except it be in a floud And the multitude of Bridges are very dangerous for boats by reason of the violent streame and especially because the Marriners are many times drunken or negligent They vse for a charme to sprinkle their drawing horses with water and vse with continuall loud cries to make them draw This Nauigation is very necessary that the lower Oestreich being fertill may supply the vpper being barren with wine and corne Munster writeth of two fals of this Riuer one below Lintz where the waters make a terrible noyse beating vpon the rocky bed the other at Gryn vvhere the water makes a dangerous whirle-poole of vnsearchable depth Vlme is seated in Schwaben or Sueuia as Augspurge is and hath his name of Elme trees Charles the Great built a Monastery in this Village which in time grew to a City and vnder the Emperour Fredrick the third bought their freedome of the Monkes The building thereof is of wood and clay The order of Knights called in Latine Teutonicus was in old time of great power and hath yet a house in this Citie It hath one stately Church in the Yard whereof the Mount Oliuet is curiously ingrauen It hath a faire Senate house and the Armory hath such store of Ordinance and all Munitions as it yeeldeth not therein to the proudest City in Germany The writing Tables made in this City are famous for their goodnesse and are thence carried into forraine parts The diet of the Innes of this City seated in a most fertill soyle is very plentifull both in meats and banquets where each man paied for his dinner seuen Batzen In this Country they drinke nothing but wine as they doe in all vpper Germany but it is sharpe and the Masse or measure is sold for three Batzen When wee were at dinner a Tumbler came in and being admitted to shew his cunning hee stood vpon his head and dranke a measure of wine which seemed strange to the beholders After dinner we rode a mile in a pleasant valley vpon the Danow which wee passed and rode two miles further in the like fertill plaine which is very large and by all men much commended for the fruitfull pastures thereof And so wee
foure miles to Bentzon hauing hils on my right hand toward the East planted with Vines and fields set with roots and vpon my left hand towards the West a faire and fruitfull plaine and here I paid seuen Batzen for my supper The second day in the morning I passed foure miles in the territory of George Landgraue of Hessen to Arhelygen through wooddy mountaines planted with some Vines and a plaine for one mile sandy but the rest good pasture We passed by Dormstat where the said Landgraue holds his Court and there each man paid sixe Fenning tribute At Arheligen I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner In the afternoone I passed some three miles to Franckfort through a sandy plaine and a wood of Oakes and Beeches and by the way they shewed vs a strange leape of a Stagge which being chased did leape ouer a cart if you may beleeue them loaded with hey Franckfort is a free City of the Empire famous for the Electors meeting there to choose the Emperour and for two yeerely Faires as also for many Parliaments of the Empire held there and it is called Franckfort vpon the Maene to distinguish it from another City of the same name built vpon the Brooke Odera and named thereof For the Riuer Maene running from the East to the West diuideth the great City from the lesse called the Saxons House vulgarly Sachsen-hausse and betweene them is a bridge of stone vpon foure narrow Arches Both the Cities are gouerned by the same Senate and Law and haue the fame name either of Francus rebuilding it or of a Foord for passage of the Franckes or French The City is compassed strongly with a double wall and vpon the East side is the gate Heilegthore where is the Iewes street who are permiteed to dwell in this famous Mart-towne and sucke the blood of Christians by extortion There is another gate called Freydigthore On the North side of the City is the gate Brickenport and a large place for an Horse Faire On the West side is the gate of strangers vulgarly Welsh-thore so called because the French enter that way it is very strong and without the gate there is a very pleasant walke vpon the banke of Maene among Vineyards and Meadowes with sweet Groues On the South side the Maene runneth by diuiding as I said the new City from the old In the new or lesse City called the Saxons-house is a house of old belonging to the Teutonike order of Knights which by old priuiledge is to this day a Sanctuary for banckrupts and manslaiers so they be not wilful and malicious murtherers but they enioy this priuiledge onely for foureteene daies so as when the time is neere out or vpon any opportunity during the time they vse to steale out and returning after an houre begin a new to reckon againe the foureteene daies A little before my comming thither a certaine bankrupt of Colen entered the same for a debt of twenty thousand Guldens On this side some ground without the wals belongs to the City but on other sides it hath almost no Land without the wals The City is of a round forme seated in a large plaine the streetes are narrow and the houses built of timber and clay the foundations of some being of stone In the Innes they aske seuen or eight batzen a meale but Merchants and many strangers vse to hire a chamber and buy their meat of the Cookes From hence to Hamburge I and foure others hired a Coach for fifty Dollers and besides were to pay for the coach-mans diet for here first the coach-man conditioned to be free from paying his diet vulgarly Maulfrey that is free for the mouth whereas in other parts our coach-men paid for themselues Alwaies vnderstand that at the times of the faires Coaches are set dearer then any time els The first day after breakfast wee went three miles to Freideburge through corne fields set with cabages and rootes and by the way we passed a Village belonging to the Count of Hanaw Freideburge is a free City of the Empire and the buildings are of timber and clay here each man paid seuen batzen for his supper and for his part of the coach-mans supper The second day in the morning we went three miles to Geysen through fruitfull hils of corne Phillip Landgraue of Hessen left three sonnes William of Cassiles whom Maurice his sonne succeeded and was now liuing and Lodwicke of Marpurg and George of Dormstat This territory belonged to the Landgraue Lodwicke for all the brothers in Germany haue the same stile of honour and he was also at that time Lord of this City Geysell which is fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the building is base of timber and clay and for the most of meere dirt These verses were written vpon the gate of the City Captus erat Princeps non marte sed Arte Philippus Cum bene munitum destrueretur opus Nominis hoc patrij Lodouicus amore refecit Anno bis septem lustra sequente none Principe dignus honos patrias surcire ruinas A quibus Hassiacos Cbriste tuere polos Prince Phillip captiu'de not by warre but Art This worke of strength was then demolished In Countries loue Prince Lodwicke for his part Rebuilt it seuenty nine yeeres finished Ruines repaire is for a Princes hand From which disasters Christ shield Hessen land Here I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner and my part for the Coach-man In the afternoone we went three miles through high stony mountaines and woods of oakes to Kirnham belonging to the Landgraue Lodwick whose Court at Marpurg lies a mile from thence All of vs at supper drunke sixe measures of wine besides beere and from henceforth wee paid seuerally for meat and drinke and at this time each of vs paid ten Weissenfenning for both together The third day we passed three miles to Drest through high mountaines with woods of Oake and many fruitfull valleies of corne and each man paid with his portion for the Coach-man foure Weissenfenning for meat and as much for wine This territory belongs to Landgraue Maurice of Cassiles After dinner we passed three miles to Fester through high mountaines full of oake woods and entered the City seated vpon a mountaine by a bridge of stone vpon which side great store of water fals from the mountaines the houses were of timber and clay each one for the most part hauing a dunghill at the doore more like a poore Village then a City but such are the buildings of the Cities in Hessen the houses of Villages being of meere dirt and thatched Here each man paid for his meat and old wine and his part for the Coach-man an Orts Doller or fourth part of a Doller The fourth day we passed three miles to Cassiles a City where the Landgraue Maurice holds his Court all our way lying through fruitfull hils of corne The City is strongly fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the houses are basely
sea for feare of the abouesaid dangers had sent me by land with command to stay for him at Leyden To bee briefe I went to your mothers house where a seruant opened mee the doore to whom I gaue your Letters but when he scarce looking at me would haue locked the doore I took my Letters againe saying I had promised to deliuer them with my owne hand and so I entred with him and gaue them into the hands of your mother and sister who inquired much after you and so much after my master as I might perceiue you had made friendly mention of me in your Letters They entertained me with much curtesie being thus disguised for my owne seruant and when I went away your mother would needs giue mee six batzen to spend neither would any refusall preuaile but I must needs take them So I set a marke vpon these peeces left I should spend them and am not out of hope ere I die to shew them to you To the purpose at the dore I met your brother whom I had seene at Frankfort and was not a little afraide left for all my disguising he would haue knowne me Let it not trouble you that I tell you another merry accident I had in the same City of Breme Disguised as I was I went to the house of Doctor Penzelius desiring to haue the name of so famous a Diuine written in my stemme-booke with his Mott after the Dutch fashion Hee seeing my poore habite and a booke vnder my arme tooke me for some begging Scholler and spake sharpely vnto me But when in my masters name I had respectiuely saluted him and told him my request he excused his mistaking and with all curtesie performed my desire I will trouble you no longer but hope by some good occasion to imbrace you tell you all the other passages of my iourney In the meane time I go forward to Leyden in Holland you as you do euer loue me and as my soule liue and farewell From Emden the twenty one of October 1592. I paied twenty foure Stiuers for my passage eleuen miles in a waggon from Stode to Breme And the first day after breakefast wee passed three miles to Ford a poore Citie subiect to the Bishop of Breme through wilde fenny and woody grounds The Towne is seated in a Fenne hauing a long paued Causey to passe vnto it and the gate being opened to vs by night each man gaue the Porter two Lubeck shillings and by the way in a village ' each man paied six Fenning for his person At Ford the Bishop of Breme hath a Castle strongly fortified with Rampiers of earth and deepe ditches full of water and here each man paied for his supper three Lubeck shillings and a halfe The waggoner taking me thus disguised as formerly I haue said for a poore Bawre said these words to me in Dutch Du knecht hilff zu tragen die packe hye that is Ho good fellow helpe here to carry this pack I answered ya gar gern yea most willingly and smiling laied my shoulder to the burthen and groned deepely but helped him very little Next morning early by Moone light we passed on three miles through large and wilde woods to a Countrey house and by the way my companions fell in talke of English affaires so foolishly as my laughter though restrained had often betraied me if twi-light had not kept mee from being seene Their ignorance greatly shortned my way with the pleasure I took in their answeres to some such questions propounded by me whereof my selfe had many times beene forced to giue an account to others By the way they shewed mee a Hill called Meineidig of certaine false witnesses of old sinking there into the ground At this Countrey house each man paied for his breakfast three Lubeck shillings and a halfe Then from sixe of the clocke in the morning till nine we passed fiue miles to Breme through an Heath and many huge Woods of Oake hauing towards the South a Fenne of tenne miles length which of the vastnesse and wildenesse is called the Diuels Fenne By the way within a mile of Breme each man paied halfe a Sesling tribute to the officers of the City and from thence wee passed a winding paued Causey to the very City Men may also passe from Hamburg to Breme by water This Citie is one of the Imperiall free Cities and of them which vpon this Sea-coast are called Hans-steten for freedome of trafficke and it is very strongly fortified with high walles of earth and deepe ditches filled with water besides that the Citizens may drowne the Fenny fields almost round about at pleasure The building of this as also of the neighbour Cities is partly of bricke partly of stone and very faire but the streets heere are filthy The Citie is fiue miles distant from the sea And the riuer Visurgis running from the South east to the North VVest by the South west side of the City runneth al the length of the same On the North east side the walles of earth are broad and there bee three faire gates with strong Rampiers Vpon the South West side being compassed all with Fennes there bee no walles In the furthest angle or corner towards the North west where the City growes narrow there is a strong Fort built the gate is within an Iland beyond which lies a plaine of faire pastures Osen-bridge lies not farre hence from which towne great quantity of narrow linnen cloth is brought into England At Breme I paied halfe a Doller for dinner supper and breakfast and a stiebkin or measure of wine extraordinary They had heere also the custome of making strangers free and the same ceremony of giuing salt to sweare by and I confessing that I was not free committed my fine to their censure hoping they would deale better with mee for my poore disguised habit but it saued me nothing the chiefe man saying to mee in Dutch Gutt gesell du must gedult haben es geit gleich bistu knecht oder here deise gewonheit betrefft beyde zu gleich That is good fellow thou must haue patience it is all one whether thou beest a seruant or a master this custome toucheth both alike After dinner taking my iourney from Breme wee passed a mile vpon a stony Causey called Steinweck that is stony way and there each man paied to the officers of Breme a quarter of a Stiuer Then entering the Territory of the Graue that is Count of Oldenburg we passed a mile through faire pastures compassed with ditches of water to a village where each man paid a Sesling to the Count and to this place each man paid for his Waggon fiue groates Here when my companions had drunke their fill and had slept a while in the straw as my selfe did vpon a bench to shun the stinking heat of the stoue we hyred another waggon for three miles paying fifteene groats and that we might more securely passe wee tooke our iourney
Hic sunt Poet a Pacuuij sita ossa Hoc volebam nessius ne esses vale D. M. Young man tho thou hastest This stone desires thee to behold it Then to read that is written Here are laid the bones of the Poet Pacunius This I would haue thee know Farewell D. M. A large and pleasant meadow lies before this Monastery There is another of the Benedictines in this City but those Friers weare a white habit liue with more seuere rules In the Monastery of Saint Augustines Hermits before named are the sepulchers of the Princes of the family Carraria The Cathedrall Church was of old Magnificall and to this day hath twelue Churches vnder it within the City The Marble chest containing Autenors bones being found when the foundation of the Almes-house was digged was then brought to the Church of Saint Laurence wherein was found a guilded sword and Latine verses in a barbarous stile shewing that the Letter A should be fatall to the City vvhich they say haue proued to true by Attila Agilulsus Accidanus Ansedissus and Albertus vnder vvhom the City vvas much afflicted This chest is erected vpon Marble pillers at the doore of the Church and vpon the wall these verses are written in Latine Iuclitus Antenor post dirutae maenia Troiae Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumque fugas Expulit Euganeos Patauinam condidit vrbem Quem tenet hac humili marmore casa Domus Famous Autenor Troyes walles pulled downe Henets and Dardans remnant here did traine Expeld th' Euganeans built faire Padnoa Towne Whom this low Marble house doth here containe Another Epitaph of the same Antenor seemes lately written by the very name of the City and sauoureth a Transalpine wit giuing small credit to Liuy or their fabulous Antiquities Hic iacet Antenor Paduanaeconditor vrbit Proditor ipse fuit hique sequnutur eum Antenor Padoaes founder lieth heere He was a Traytor these him follow neere The Monument of the Troian horse of wood is kept in the Pallace of the Capilist family whereupon they are called the Capilists of the horse There bee eighteene Cloysters of Nunnes in the City and two of repenting or illuminate women so they call whores entring Cloysters About the middest of the City is a faire Pallace where the Venetian Podesta or gouernour dwels the gallery whereof in which hee sitteth to iudge causes is very large and hath a high arched roofe hanging by Art not sustained by many pillers and the same is couered with lead and adorned with many pictures of the famous Painter Zoto and the length thereof is one hundred forty walking paces the breadth forty three paces There is the Statua of Iulius Paulus Doctor of Ciuill Law and of Peter Aponensis or d'Abano and of Titus Liuius and of Albertuo the Hermitan placed ouer the foure dores At the West end of this gallery is a Monument of Titus Liuius the Historian carued within the wall and these verses are written vpon the wall in Latine Ossatuumque caput liues tibi maxime Liui Prompto animo hic omnes composuera tui Tufamam aeternam Romae patriaeque dedisti Huic criens illi fortia facta canens At tibi dat Paetria hac simaiora liceret Haec totus stares aureus ipse loco Greatest Liuy thy countrey men haue laid Thy head and bones here with a ready minde Thy Countrey and Rome thou hast famous made Here borne while their greatest acts thou hast refinde Thy Countrey giues thee this if more it might Here all in gold thou shouldst stand shining bright This Titus Liuius died in the fourth yeere of the Empire of Tiberim Caesar and in the sixty six yeere of his age Not farre from this Monument stands a brazen Image of the same Liuy with this inscription in Latine The bones of Titus Liuy of Paduoa by all mortall mens consent worthy by whose penne truely inuincible the Acts of the inuincible Roman people should be written Besides they shew in the City Titus Liuius his house And this Monument orthese bones of him were brought thither from the Monastery of Saint Iustina The Court where the Senate meetes lieth neere to the said gallery of this Pallace where there is astone which they call the stone of Turpitude that is filthines or disgrace whereupon debtors which disclaim the hauing of goods to pay their debts do sit with their hinder parts bare that with this note of disgrace others may be terrified from borrow ing more then they can pay They haue a Pest-house called Lazaretto two like houses for Lepers and one Alsmes-house for the poore strangers another for Orphanes and a third for children cast out or left in the streets Neere the Church of Saint Luria there is a Well called the Diuels Well which they say was brought into the street by Art Magick out of the court-yard of a Gentleman denying water to his neighbours This City hath little trafficke though it lies very fit for the same because the Venetians draw it all to themselues But Gentlemen of all Nations come thither in great numbers by reason of the famous Vniuersity which the Emperour Frederick the second being offended with the City of Bologna planted herein the yeere 1222 or there abouts some comming to study the ciuill Law other the Mathemetickes Musick others to ride to practise the Art of Fencing and the excercises of dancing and actiuity vnder mostskilful professors of those Arts drawn hither by the same reason And Students haue here great if not to great liberty priuiledges so as men-slaiers are only punished with banishment which is a great mischiefe and makes strangers liue there in great iealousie of treason to be practised against their liues The Schoole where the professors of liberall Sciences teach is seated ouer against Saint Martins Church and was of old a publike Inne hauing the signe of an Axe which name it still retaineth The promotion of degrees is taken in the Bishops hall neere the Cathedrall Church and the Doctors are made in the chiefe Church And there bee eight Colledges built for poore Students of seuerall Prouinces The Athestine family of the Dukes of Ferrara and the Honorian family of the tyrant Acciolinus and the Carrarian family of their owne Princes had their beginning in this City as they write And they doe no lesse triumph of diuers Citizens borne heere namely Marsilius Mamerdinus a Minorite who being a Diuine wrote learnedly in the yeere 1329 of the power of the Pope and Emperour defending the maiesty of the Emperour against the Pope and Iulius Paulus a ciuill Lawyer Disciple to Papinius and liuing in the time of Titus Liuius and Francis Zabarella a ciuill Lawyer dying in the yeere 1417 and Peter D'Abano a Physician and Astrologer dying in the yeere 1312 whose body being to bee burnt for suspicion of his being a coniurer his Concubine buried but his picture and his bookes were burnt by the Emperors command and Michael Sauonarola a Physitian and
Histria now called Frioli and from the Territory of Paduoa and other Italians came from adioyning parts into certaine Ilands compassed with marshes that they might be safe from those Barbarians and about the yeere of our Lord 421 began to build a City which prouing a safe retreate from the tyranny then continually oppressing Italy in processe of time by ciuill Arts grew incredibly These Ilands were in number sixty neere adioyning and twelue more distant which being all ioyned in one haue made this stately City and the chiefe of them were called in the vulgar tongue Rialto Grado Heraclca Caestello Oliuolo The Iland Grado was of old the seat of the Patriarkes after that the Patriarchate of Aquilegia in Histria was by the Popes authority translated thither but now the seat of the Patriarkes is remoued to Caestello Oliuolo At first Consuls gouerned the City then Tribunes chosen out of each I le one till the yeere 697 when the Citizens abiding in Heraclea chose them a Duke who dwelt in the same I le After forty yeeres they chose a Tribune of souldiers in stead of a Duke with like authority as hee had and at last in the yeere 742 meeting in the Iland Malamocco they chose a Duke againe and remoued his seat from Heraclea to that Iland Then Pipin raigning in Italy about the yeere 800 the Venetians demolished Heraclea which was built againe but neuer recouered the old dignity being more notable in the seat of the Bishop then in the number of Citizens For most of the Gentlemen remoued their dwellings into the Iland Rialto otherwise called Riuo alto either of the depth of the marshes or because it was higher then the other Ilands and therevpon called Ripa alta Whereupon that Iland getting more dignity then the rest the Citizens in processe of time ioyned the sixty Ilands lying neere one to the other with some foure hundred bridges of which Ilands as is aboue said and of the twelue more distant this stately City consisteth Then by common counsell the seat of the Dukes was established in this Iland who built the stately Pallace which at this day we see And now a new Dukedome arising out of these salt marshes of the sea from that time daily grew in dignity But the City was first called Kialto and after of the countrey from whence the Citizens came was called Venetia or in the plurall number Venetiae because many Dukedomes and Prouinces or many Nations were ioyned in one and at this day is vulgarly called Venegia That the City was first called Rialto appeares by old records of Notaries written in these wordes After the vse of Venice In the name of eternall God amen subscribed in such a yeere of Riuoalto and in these wordes after the vse of the Empire In the name of Christ amen subscribed dated at Venice This stately City built in the bottome of the gulfe of the Adriatique sea in the midst of marshes vpon many Ilands is defended on the East side against the sea by a banke of earth which hath fiue or some say seuen mouths or passages into the sea and is vulgarly called Il Lido and being so placed by nature not made by Art bendeth like a bowe and reacheth thirty fiue miles and by the aforesaid passages the ships and the tides of the sea goe in and out and the deepe marshes whereof I haue spoken are made of these salt waters and of diuers fresh waters falling from the Alpes and vulgarly called il Tagliamonts La liuenza la praac la Brenta Il Po l' Adice and il Bacchiglione On the West side the City is compassed with marshes and after fiue miles with the Territory of Paduoa On the North side with marshes and beyond them partly with the Prouince Frioli partly with the aforesaid sea banke And vpon the South side with many Ilands wherein are many Churches and Monasteries like so many Forts and beyond them with the firme land of Italy The City is eight miles in circuit and hath seuenty parishes wherein each Church hath a little market place for the most part foure square and a publike Well For the common sort vse well water and raine water kept in cesternes but the Gentlemen fetch their water by boat from the land It hath thirty one cloysters of Monkes and twenty eight of Nunnes besides chappels and almes-houses Channels of water passe through this City consisting of many Ilands ioyned with Bridges as the bloud passeth through the veines of mans body so that a man may passe to what place he will both by land and water The great channell is in length about one thousand three hundred paces and in breadth forty paces and hath onely one bridge called Rialto and the passage is very pleasant by this channell being adorned on both sides with stately Pallaces And that men may passe speedily besides this bridge there be thirteene places called Traghetti where boats attend called Gondole which being of incredible number giue ready passage to all men The rest of the channels running through lesse streets are more narrow and in them many bridges are to be passed vnder The aforesaid boats are very neat and couered all saue the ends with black cloth so as the passengers may goe vnseene and vnknowne and not bee annoyed at all with the sunne winde or raine And these boats are ready at call any minute of the day or night And if a stranger know not the way hee shall not need to aske it for if hee will follow the presse of people hee shall be sure to bee brought to the market place of Saint Marke or that of Rialto the streets being very narrow which they paue with bricke and besides if hee onely know his Hosts name taking a boat he shall be safely brought thither at any time of the night Almost all the houses haue two gates one towards the street the other towards the water or at least the bankes of the channels are so neere as the passage by water is as easie as by land The publike boats with the priuate of Gentlemen and Citizens are some eight hundred or as others say a thousand Though the floud or ebbe of the salt water bee small yet with that motion it carrieth away the filth of the City besides that by the multitude of fiers and the situation open to all windes the ayre is made very wholsome whereof the Venetians bragge that it agrees with all strangers complexions by a secret vertue whether they be brought vp in a good or ill ayre and preserueth them in their former health And though I dare not say that the Venetians liue long yet except they sooner grow old and rather seeme then truly be aged I neuer in any place obserued more old men or so many Senators venerable for their grey haires and aged grauity To conclude the situation of Venice is such as the Citizens abound with all commodities of sea and land and are not onely most safe from their enemies on
is richly guilded and here Pope Pius the fourth consecrated the spoiles taken from the Turkes in the nauall victory of him and his confederates the memory whereof is there kept by an inscription vpon a pillar Also the Senate and people of Rome haue here erected a table to Pope Paul the third vpon which is written in golden letters that while he was Cardinall he erected here many antient monuments digged vp in Rome at his owne charge On the other side of the Mount Capitoline towards the West as I remember at the very foot of the mountaine is the Tullian prison appointed for that vse by the old Kings Ancus Martins and Tullus in which they say the holy Apostles Peter and Paul were imprisoned and at this day there is a Church vnder the earth called Saint Peter In Careere The 24 Theater of Marcellus sonne to the sister of Augustus is neere the Pallace of the Family Sauilla Not farre thence towards the fish market was the Porticus of Octauia sifter to Augustus but no ruines now remaine thereof The 25 pallace of the Cardinal Farnese is seated in a plain being one of the fairest in Rome which for the dignity of such a City hath very few stately Pallaces Here I did see an admirable statua cut out in one stone of a Bull treading a woman vnder his feete with the Images of two brothers standing vpright and of a hunting dogge with the figure of a high Rocke Concerning the Churches which we did see in this daies iourney The 23 Church of Saint Adrian in the market place called Romanum or Boiarium The Church of Saint Peter and Marcellanus betweene the 20 Theater of Vespasian and the Church A S. Giouanni in Laterano the Church of Saint Matthew in the way towards C Saint Mary Maggiore the Church of Saint Pietro in vincula vpon XXVI Mount Esquiline where is a sepulcher of white marble of Pope Iulius the second adorned with faire statuaes namely one of Moyses of the rare worke of Michael Angelo the Church of Agata vpon the same mountaine the Church of Saint Vito In Macello the Church of Saint Eusebius neere the mounment called 9 Trofei di Mario the Church of Saint Prasside seared neere C S. Maria Maggiore whose chappell called Horto del Paradiso no woman may enter the Church of Saint Quirico the Church Saint Susanna vpon XXVIII Monte Cauallo the Church Saint Vitallis Al these Churches giue the titles of Cardinals The Church Saint Costanza is a long mile out of the VII gate Pis and was of old dedicated to Bacchus where is a most faire sepulcher and large of porphry ten ordinary spannes deepe and fifteene long curiously engrauen with boyes quaffing and bearing cups of wine as in a Feast of Bacchus which some thinke to be the sepulcher of Constantia a Virgine daughter to Constantine but the engrauing like a Feast of Bacchus seemes more ancient and to be wrought by the Heathen Romans and it is vulgarly called the sepulcher of Bacchus This Church is of a round forme and little but very faire and borne vp with twelue rowes of marble pillars set in a round compasse Neere this lies the Church of Saint Agnese hauing doores of brasse where the Lambes are kept whereof the Pals of Arch-bishops are made which the Pope so dearly sels At my first comming to Rome I lodged in a publike Inne and paid three giulij each meale then as I haue written I hasted my iourney to Naples and after returning to Rome I hired a chamber by the day and bought my owne meat but my haste to be gone made me not to note my particular expences Onely I remember that they who sold any thing in the market vsed to look into the hands of the buyers to see whether they brought siluer or brasse coyne and thereafter made their price whereupon many shewed siluer till they had bought and then paid in copper which the people durst not refuse And from hence it was that in a solemne pompe when the people fell on their knees before the Pope and I thought they onely expected his blessing they all cried out Holy Father command that we may haue white bread and that the Gentlemen may be forced to take our brasse quatrines so as it seemes they refused to receiue them I scarce bought my meat one or two daies in Rome For after I had beene with Cardinall Allen I formerly said that to shun the company of his Englishmen I changed my lodging and my selfe and two Dutch Gentlemen my consorts tooke a chamber in a victualling house close vnder the Popes Pallace and each of vs paid for our bed each night one or two baocci and bought our meat in that house agreeing for the price before we did eat it and so being ready vpon all euents of danger and hauing no carriage to trouble vs we hoped if need were to escape yet still I rested much vpon the Cardinals promise and being free from Englishmens company and hauing two honest Dutch Gentlemen for my consorts both borne in the Palatinate of Rheine where they professe the same religion as in England I did with more security set my selfe freely to satisfie my curiosity in the view of Rome After being desirous to see the mouth of Tyber where it fals into the sea I went out of the gate of Saint Paul and hauing the narrow bed of Tyber on my right hand passed twelue miles to Ostia through fruitfull hils of corne and a vast wood at my iournies end Here is a strong Castle seated in Latium and belonging to the Popes of Rome which Pope Martin the fifth built and Pope Iulius the second did more strongly fortifie but nothing remaines of the stately buildings of that City but some poore houses Strabo writes that King Ancus Martius first built this City in a soile to which the Riuer brought much dirt It is certaine that of old the ships did cast Anchor without the Hauen of the City and sent their goods to Rome in Gallies and Barkes drawne vp by a rope the Hauen being not so deepe to beare them The Citizens were free from Tribute to make them dwell there the aire being then as also at this time very vnwholsome Now the Tyber seemes to end here in a Lake and the waters runne in little channels vnder the paued high waies The Hauen of Traian is a mile and a halfe from the Towne being broad enough but so barred with sand and like matter as no ships can come to it and onely small Barkes sometimes passe from Naples and neere places to Rome and that very seldome The foresaid Hauen was first built by Claudius then repaired by Traian and called of his name of which Suetonius writes thus in the life of Claudius He made the Hauen of Hostia drawing an arme on the right and left side and making a barre at the entery where it was deepe which barre that he might make more stable by Art he sunke the ship
let him ride behind me but feare giuing him wings so as he went as fast as my horse could trot within short space we came to Lanzi where I paid sixteene batzen for my supper breakefast and horse-meat The sixth day in the morning I rode fifteene Italian miles which the Grysons call two miles to Chur a City and the seat of a Bishop through little mountaines couered with snow The head of the Riuer Rheine is distant from this City as farre as a footman may goe in halfe an houre and it lies towards the south The City lieth in length from the Church on the North-side towards the South and hauing spent an houre in viewing the same I rode further foure miles of Sweitzerland through mountaines couered with snow to Walstat where I paid fiue batzen for my supper and to gratifie my Dutch consorts foure batzen for drinke after supper vulgarly called Schlaffdrunke that is the sleeping cup and three batzen for my horse-meat The seuenth day in the morning I passed two miles I meane alwaies the miles of the Countrey by boat vpon the Lake Walsea that is the walled sea because it is compassed with mountaines and I rode two most long miles more ouer hils to the little City Rabesuele and for the passage of my selfe and my horse ouer the Lake I paid seuen batzen and for oates for my horse while I expected consorts I paid three creitzers The foresaid little City is confederate with the Sweitzar Cantons and here I paid eighteene batzen for my supper with extraordinary fare and my breakfast and horse-meat The eight day in the morning after I had ridden foure houres space for the Sweitzers miles are so long and of so vncertaine measure as they vse to measure their iournies by houres riding not by miles I wondered to heare that we had ridden but one mile Our way was through pleasant hils planted with vines growing vpon short stakes as the Dutch vse to plant them Here we dined in a village and throughout all this territory I paied about seuen batzen a meale After dinner hauing in three houres ridden three miles my horse weary of this long iourney without so much as a daies rest beganne to faint so as I was forced in a village to giue him some two houres rest and some prouender and my way hitherto was through pleasant hils in like sort planted with vines on my right hand towards the East and by the side of the Lake Zurechzea on the left hand towards the West And the pleasantnesse of this Village seated among hilles planted with Vines on the East side of the said Lake made me as willing as my horse to rest there The same euening I rode further one mile to Zurech which city I formerly described in my former passage through Sweitzerland I formerly said that for the vnpossibilitie to exchange my money from Venice to Paris I was forced to exchange the same to Geneua For which cause and out of my desire to view that Citie famous for reformation of Religion after some few daies I took my iourney thither turning out of my high way The first day in the morning through a way most pleasant for the variety of Plaines Hilles Orchards Woods and Gardens wherein I passed by an ancient Castle of the Counts of Habspurg I rode in eight howers space to a Village where I lodged and payed a franke and a halfe French money for my supper and horse-meate The second day in the morning through a plaine Heath Woods and hilly ground for pasture I rode in foure houres space to a Village and there as in the rest of this iourney I payed about seuen batzen of Dutch money for a meale After dinner through like way I rode in three houres space to Solothurn an ancient Citie and one of the Sweitzers Cantons called in Latin Solidurum and it hath the name in both tongues as the Tower of the Sunne or as consisting onely of Towers whereof there be many One Tower thereof is of great antiquitie and vpon it these verses in Latin are written Ex this nihil est Sollduro antiqi ius vno Exceptis Treueris quarum ego aicta soror What 's older mongst the Celts then Solidure Nothing but Treir whose sister Iam sure They will haue this Citie built in the time of the Patriarke Abraham The third day in the morning I rode in foure houres space to Arberg by the side of a great Riuer called Ar passing twice ouer it by two bridges After dinner I rode in foure houres space to Morton through pleasant miles of Corne and Woods and Pastures and by the side of the Lake Mortonzra Not farre hence Charle Duke of Burgunay was defeated by the Sweitzers in the yeere 1476 and there in a field lie the bones of the souldiers there killed The Burgundians were thrice beaten in one day and here in the last battell Duke Charles also was killed The fourth day in the morning I rode in three houres to Bitterline through fruitfull Corne fieldes and pastures and after dinner in foure houres space I rode to Milden and about the midst of the way did see the ruines of the ancient Citie Auenza or Auenticum which Iulius Caesar vtterly raced and Corne was now sowed within the old circuit of the Citie whereof no memory remained but one ruinous tower and a statua but they say that the Husbandmen tilling the ground doe many times dig vp old Roman coines of siluer and gold Not farre thence towards the West lie the snowy Mountaines which diuide the Territories of Burgundy and Sweitzerland The fifth day in fiue houres space I rode to Losanna through Mountaines couered with Snow and thicke Woods This Citie is subiect to Berna being one of the Sweitzers Cantons but the Citizens speake French It is seated on the North side of the Lake of Losanna of old called Lacus 〈◊〉 which is compassed with Mountaines continually couered with snow which open themselues on the Eastside towards Italy On the Eastside of the Citie is the head of the Riuer Rhodanus which fulles into this Lake hauing so cleare a colour as it seemes not at all to mingle with the standing water of the Lake From hence I rode by the West side of this Lake and in two howers space came to Morgen which Towne is also subiect to Berna Then I rode foure miles in foure houres space to Geneua hauing the sandy banke of the said Lake on my left hand towards the East and most pleasant Hilles planted with Vines on my right hand towards the West and by the way I did see a Village ruined in time of warre nothing there standing but a pillar erected in honour of the Papists Masse Geneua is seated on the South side of the Lake right opposite to Losanna seated at the North end thereof The East side of the Lake lies towards Sauoy and Italy and the West side towards France on which side also the high way lies
into Sweitzerland The lower part of which Citie vulgarly la bas rue is seated in a plaine and the rest vpon a Hill The buildings are faire and of free-stone This Citie being consederate with some of the Sweitzer Cantones and more strictly with Berna hath defended the freedome of the Citizens and the profession of Reformed Religion for many yeeres with great courage and pietie and through many miseries and practises to subduethem against the pretended rightes of the Bishop and the Duke of Sauoyes ambition and hatred he beares to the Reformed Religion The lower part thereof on the North side lies close to the South side of the Lake where is a little hauen for Gallies which they haue built to keepe free the passage of the Lake And on the same side is a strong Fort and there the Riuer Rhodanus comming out of the Lake enters the Citie and runnes through the lower part thereof hauing two bridges for passage The Duke of Sauoy who hath long watched to surprize this Citie possesseth the East side of the Lake but the Citie is carefull not to suffer him to build any Gallies thereupon and vpon the least rumour of building them armeth their Gallies to burne the same Therefore the way into Sauoy lying vpon the East South East side of the Citie in a Plaine betweene Hilles and Mountaines the Citie hath built a Fort of little circuit but great strength with fortifications of earth some Musket shot without the walles vpon that way and therein continually keepes a Garrison Not farre thence the Riuer Arba flowing from the Easterne Mountaines doth beyond the Citie fall into Rhodanus At the South Gate is a publike Church-yard for buriall and an Hospitall or Pest house which are both without the walles On the same side within the walles is a pleasant walke vpon Hilles where of old a pillar was erected with this inscription To the Emperour Caesar M. Aurelius Antoninus Pius by Foelix Aug. greatest Bishop with Tribunall power Consull c. On the West side of the Citie without the walles little Mountaines lying not farre distant might seeme dangerous for the encamping of enemies saue that on the one side they are compassed with the Territorie of Berne confederate with the Citie and on the other side with the Riuer Rhodanus so as the enemies passage to them is very difficult This Citie was of old repaired by the Emperour Aurelius and Iulius Caesar makes mention of this Citie in his first booke of the Gaules warre so as the antiquitie thereof cannot be doubted Here I had great contentment to speake and conuerse with the reuerent Father Theodore Beza who was of stature something tall and corpulent or big boned and had a long thicke beard as white as snow He had a graue Senatours countenance and was broad faced but not fat and in generall by his comely person sweete affabilitie and grauitie he would haue extorted reuerence from those that least loued him I walked with him to the Church and giuing attention to his speech it happened that in the Church porch I touched the poore mans box with my fingers and this reuerend man soone perceiued my errour who hauing vsed in Italy to dip my fingers towards the holy water according to the manner of the Papists lest the omitting of so small a matter generally vsed might make me suspected of my Religion and bring me into dangers of greater consequence did now in like sort touch this poore mans box mistaking it for the Font of holy water I say hee did soone perceiue my errour and taking me by the hand aduised me hereafter to eschew these ill customes which were so hardly forgotten When I had taken counsell with my friends if it were safe for mee to goe the right way from Geneua to Paris they being of great experience disswaded me from that iourney which could not but be dangerous the Peace being scarsely concluded and the Countrey being full of bands of Souldiers returning to their owne home which councell after I found good by Experience the mother of fooles And when they perceiued that I was obstinately purposed to passe through France into England they aduised mee rather to passe into France by the Dukedome of Loraine which for the time was more free from the tumults of warre whose councell I thought good to follow so as I was now to returne to Strassburg in Germany almost the same way I came Thus after noone I left Geneua and rode that day foure miles to Morgen The second day in the morning I rode in two houres space to Losanna and in fiue houres space to Milden where I payed eight batzen for my dinner and horse-meate After dinner in foure howers space I rode to Bitterline and payed fourteene batzen for my supper and horse-meate The third day in the morning I rode one mile as they call it in foure houres space to Morton in three howers space to Berne one of the Sweitzers Cantons through sandy fieldes of Corne and many Woods At Geneua many French Gentlemen and Students comming thither for the libertie of their religion did speake pure French and from that Citie all the people spake a barbarous French till I came neere Berne where they first began to speake the Sweitzers language Being to describe Berne giue me leaue first for Trauellers sake to mention what I haue read in some Authors that in the Territorie of Lucerna which I neuer viewed and who are earnest Papists and so may iustly bee suspected in like reports there is a wonderfull Lake vpon the banke whereof they say Pilate doth once in a yeere walke anired in Iudges robes and that whosoeuer then sees him doth die the same yeere The most faire Citie Berne hath the name of Beares in the Dutch tongue because Berthold Duke of Zeringen being to build the Citie and going fourth to hunt thought good to giue it the name of the first beast he should meete and kill And there being a Wood of Oakes in the very place where the Citie was to be built the workemen cutting the same for the building of the Citie did sing this Rime in Dutch Holtz lass dich hawen gern Die stat muss heissen Bern. Wood let vs willingly cut thee this Citie must Bern named be They write that the ground whereupon the Citie is built was of old called the Sacke and that the Citie thereupon was built in forme of a sacke This most faire City is not of any great antiquitie for Berthold the founder thereof died in the yeere 1175. It is built vpon a little Mountaine yet seemes to be seated in a Valley because it is compassed with greater Mountaines The little Mountaine whereupon it is seated is narrow and the full bredth thereof is within the walles neither is it much longer then the Citie lying in length from the West to the East in which length it hath three faire and broad streetes and is fortified round about with the Valleys of this
the Prophet where of old was built a stately Church which as then stood little ruined and neere it is a pleasant fountaine where the passengers vse to drinke and to water their Asses They say that the said Prophet was borne there and that the place was of old called Anatoth I said that excellent corne growes betweene the great stones of these Mountaines or Rockes neither are they destitute of Vines and many fruites In the said valley of Hieromy certaine Arabians which seemed to be mowers of corno flew vpon vs like fierce dogges yet our Muccaro sent them away content with the gift of a bisket and in like sort in another narrow passage of the mountaines he paied some meidines for cafar which he neuer demanded of vs being content with the money we had paied him at Ramma Vpon a high Rocke we did see the ruines of the Castle Modon where the Machabees were buried Then wediscended into the Valley of Terebintho so called of a Tree bearing a black fruit like an Oliue yeelding a kind of oyle where we passed ouer a Torrent by a bridge of stone and this is the place famous for the victory of Dauid against Goliah We had now some two miles to Ierusalem yet in the very Hauen we wanted little of perishing For it happened that a Spachi or Horse-man vnder the great Turkes pay riding swiftly and crossing our way suddenly turned towards vs and with his speare in his rest for these horse-men carry speares bucklers like Amadis of Gaule he rushed vpon vs with all his might and by the grace of God his speare lighting in the pannell of the Asse neuer hurt the French-man his Rider but he did much astonish both him and vs till our Muccaro enquiring the cause of this violence he said why doe not these dogges light on foot to honour mee as I passe which when we heard and knew that we must here learne the vertue of the beasts on which we rode we presently tumbled from our Asses for we had no other stirrops then knotted ropes and bended our bodies to him Neither did we therein basely but very wisely for woe be to that Christian who resists any Turke especially a Souldier and who beares not any iniury at their hands We had but one mile to Ierusalem when we did sec large ruines on this West side of the City of an old City or Village Somewhat after noone the fourth of Iune we entered Ierusalem vpon the West side at the Gate of Ioppa written Iaffa Giaffa and Zaffa by diuers Nations At this gate we staied till two Friars came out of the Latine Monastery and likewise the exactors of Tribute came to vs and to them we paied each man two zechines for tribute due to the great Turke or at least extorted from vs which done the two Friars being Italians did lead vs to the Monastery of the Latines CHAP. II. The description of the City of Ierusalem and the territory thereof I Am vnskilfull in Geography and much more in the making of Mappes but according to the faithfull view of my eyes I will first draw the situation of Ierusalem and after explaine it as well as I can And first I thinke good to professe that by my iourny to this City I had no thought to expiate any least sinne of mine much lesse did I hope to merit any grace from God but when I had once begun to visite forraigne parts I was so stirred vp by emulation and curiosity as I did neuer behold any without a kind of sweete enuy who in this kind had dared more then my selfe Thus affected I thought no place more worthy to be viewed in the whole world then this City where howsoeuer I gaue all diuine worship to God and thought none to be giuen to the places yet I confesse that through the grace of God the very places strucke me with a religious horrour and filled my mind prepared to deuotion with holy motions In like fort I professe that I will faithfully relate the situation of the City and the description of the monuments made to me by the Friars making conscience not to adde or detract but as neere as I can to vse their owne words Yet doe I not my selfe beleeue all the particulars I write vpon their report neither doe I perswade any man to beleeue them But for many monuments the scripture giues credit to them and it is not probable in so great difference and emulation whereof I shall after speake of Sects of Christians there abiding and being most apt to note errours one in another that any apparant fictions could be admitted as on the contrary it is most certaine that some superstitious inuentions wherewith all the sectes are more or lesse infected haue in time obtained to be reputed true and religiously to be beleeued Howsoeuer he that conferres the situation of the City and of the monuments with the holy Scriptures and with the old ruines of Rome and other Cities shall easily discerne what things are necessarily true or false and what are more or lesse probable And it will notoriously appeare that the Citie is now seated in the same place in which it flourished when our Sauiour liued there in the slesh Neither let any man obiect to me the prophecies of the fatall and irreparable ruine thereof which all Diuines vnderstand of the Temple to be vtterly demolished and for my part I would rather admit if necessitie require any figuratiue speech then I would bee so wicked or so blockish as not to beleeue the holy Scriptures or that which I did see with these eyes Vpon the West side the Citie could neuer haue been more enlarged then now it is since Mount Caluerie without all doubt was of old without the walles which now is inclosed within them so as rather it appeares the Citie hath been so much inlarged on that side In like sort on the East side the Citie is so compassed with the Valley of Iehosephat and the famous Mount Oliuet as it appeares the City could not that way haue been larger then now it is On the North side I did neuer reade nor heare any that described this Citie to haue been larger then now it is yet in respect of huge ruines still remaining there vpon a large Plaine of the highest part of the Citie if any should confidently affirme that they belonged to the old Citie for my part I could not gainesay it From the Plaine of this highest part of the Citie it declines by little and little if you except some little Hilles within the walles from the North to the East where the Temple of Salomon is seated vpon the lowest part of Mount Moriah and likewise it declines from the North to the South Gates whereof the one is called Sterquilinea of the filth there carried out the other Praesentationis because the Virgin Mary entered there when she presented Christ to the Priest in the Temple which gates as the whole
faire Cities Vrbinum subiect to the Duke thereof which some make part of Ptcanum Rimini Bologna subiect to the Pope and ancient Rauenna which with the greatest part of this Prouince is subiect to the Pope who erected Vrbine from a County to a Dukedome with couenant of vassalage which the Popes seldome omit yet some part of the Prouince is subiect to the Venetians 11 Lombardy of old was part of Gallia Cisalpina which the Riuer Padus vulgarly Po and of old called Eridanus diuides into Cispadan on this side the Po and Transpadan beyond the Po. Cispadan of old called Emilia now vulgarly di qua del ' Po containes Pigmont so called as seated at the foote of the Mountaines whereof the chiefe Citie is Turin of old called Augusta Taurinorum and this Prouince is subiect to the Duke of Sauoy Also it containes the Territory of Parma subiect to the Duke thereof wherin are the cities Parma Piacenza Transpadane vulgarly di la del ' Po containes the Dukedome of Milan the chiefe City whereof is Milano and it hath other Cities namely Como where both Plimes were borne seated on the most pleasant Lake 〈◊〉 vulgarly di Como abounding with excellent fishes Also Tic. num vulgarly 〈◊〉 where the French King Francis the first was taken prisoner by the Army of Charles the fifth Lastly Cremona among other things famous for the Tower This Dukedome is the largest and richest of all other as Flaunders is among the Counties and it is subiect to the King of Spaine 12 Also Transpadane Lombardy containes the Dukedome of Mantua subiect to the Duke thereof and Marca Treuisana or Triuigiana subiect to the State of Venice Mantua is the chiefe City of the Dukedome and Marca Treuisana hath the famous Cities Venice Padoa 〈◊〉 Verona Vicenza Brescia and Bergamo The 〈◊〉 of old inhabited all Cisalpina Gailia who gaue the name to the Iyrrhene Sea and were expelled by the Galles and of them the Insubres inhabited the Transpadan part and there built Milano and the Senones inhabited the Cispadane part 13 Histria is deuided into Forum Iulij and Histria properly so called Vorum Iulij vnlgarly Frieli and Patria because the Venetians acknowledge they came from thence was a Dukedome erected by the Lombards the chiefe City whereof is the most ancient Aguilegia adorned with the title of a Patriarchate which at this day is almost fallen to the ground Neere that City is a Towne in which they write that S. Marke penned his Gospell Now the chiefe City is Frioli The confines of this Region lie vpon Marca Trenisana and all the Prouince to the Riuer 〈◊〉 is subiect to the State of Venice The other part is subiect to the Arch-Dukes 〈◊〉 Austria Here growes the wine Pucinum now called Prosecho much celebrated by 〈◊〉 14 Histria properly so called is almost in the forme of a Peninsule almost an Iland and the chiefe City is Iustinopolis vnlgarly Capo d'Istria and all the Prouince is subiect to the State of Venice Italy in Winter time namely the moneths of December January and February hath a temperate cold with little or no frosts or Ice And howsoeuer my selfe did see not onely the Riuers of the State of Venice but the very Inland Seas of Venice frozen and couered with thicke yce for the space of three weekes yet the Venetiaos find it was a rare accident In Summer the heate is excessiue and the dew falling by night is very vnwholsome as also thunderings and lightnings are frequent which doe great hurt both to man and beast then abroad as sad experience often shewes them But in the Dog-daies no man is so hardy as to put his head out of his dores or to goe out of the City For they prouerbially say Quando il Sole alberga in Leone 〈◊〉 sano guadagna assai that is When the Sunne lodgeth in the Signe of the Lion he that preserues his health gaines enough This excesse of heate they carefully auoid by inhabiting vpon the sides of the Mountaines and Hilles towards the Sea which cooleth the windes and by retiring into vaults vnder ground or open Tarrasses lying vpon Riuers and free from the Sunne Yea some haue found the meanes by an artificiall Mill to draw Winde into a vault and from thence to disperie it into any roome of the house All Italy is diuided with the Mount Apennine as a back is with the bone and vpon both sides thereof as well towards the North as South the Hilles and Plaines extend towards the Tirrhene and Adriatike Seaes in so narrow compasses as many times a man may at once see both the Seas from the top of the Mountaine so as the fresh windes blowing from each Sea doe not a little mitigate the heate of the clime For the Sea windes blowing from any quarter whatsoeuer while they gather cold by long gliding on the water must needes refresh where they blow as on the contrary winds sweeping vpon the earth increase the heate Thus in the West part of Sicily when the South East wind blowes and sweepes vpon the plaine parched by the Sun it brings excessiue heate yet the same wind yea the very South wind in his nature most hot when they sweepe vpon the Sea and after beate vpon the Mountaines of Liguria doe bring a pleasant coolenesse with them Touching the fertility of Italy before I speake of it giue me leaue to remember that Ierome Turler writing of Trauell into forraigne parts relates that a Prince of Naples hauing a kinseman to his pupill who desired much to see forraigne Kingdomes he could not deny him so iust a request but onely wished him first to see Rome whether he went and after his returne the Prince tooke an accompt of him what he had seene and finding him sparingly to relate his obseruations in that place he made this answere to his request Cozen you haue seene at Rome faire Meadowes Plaines Mountaines Woods Groues Fountaines Riuers Villages Castles Cities Baths Amphitheaters Play-houses Temples Pillars Statuaes Colosses triumphall Arkes Pyramides Academies Gardens Water-Conduits Men good and ill learned and vnlearned more you cannot see in the vniuersall World then be content and stay at home And so he restrained the young Man in his desire to trauell wherein perhaps he rather sought to get liberty then experience This I write to shew that the Italians are so rauished with the beauty of their owne Countrey as hauing by sharpenesse of wit more then the true value of things magnified and propounded to strangers admiration each Brooke for a Riuer each vice for the neighbour vertue and each poore thing as if it were to be extolled aboue the Moone they haue thereby more wronged themselues then vs. For we passing through Italy though we find our selues deceiued in the fame of things yet still we heare and see many things worthy to be obserued but of the Italians holding Italy for a Paradice very few sharpen their wits with any long voyage and great part
is more famous then any other in this Prouince whose Region called Saba is celebrated for plenty of Franckensence and it hath woods of Trees which being cut yeeld a frothy humour that turnes into that odour The Cities of happy Arabia are 〈◊〉 Tolnaby that is the City of the Prophet because Mahomet is said to haue written his Alcorane there and Mecha famous by Mahomets Sepulcher The Kingdome of Ormus is part of happy Arabia hauing a peculiar King but tributary to the King of Spain as he is King of Portugall the Metrapolitane City whereof rich in trade is called Ormus 3 Babilonia the third part of the Turkish Empire in Asia hath the metrapolitane City of old called by the same name but in these dayes called Bagdet 4 Chaldea the fourth part lies on the East side of Babilonia whereof the chiefe City is called Vhrr in the Scriptures from whence Abraham vpon Gods commandement went to Haran a City of Mesapitania 5 Assiria the fifth part is so called of Assur the sonne of Shem whereof the chiefe Cities are Ninus called Niniue in the Scriptures the old seate of the Kings built by Assur and Aruela famous by the victory of Alexander the Great against Darius the Persian King 6 The Ilands of Asia are the sixth part of the Turkish Empire in Asia the greater and they lie either in the Mediterranean Sea or in the Archipelagus or in the Indian Seas In the Mediterranean Sea lies Candia of old called Creta famous of old for hauing one hundred Cities and by the labyrinth of Daedalus and it was called Creta of the Earths whitenesse from whence great quantity of Muskadine Wines are exported into diuers parts of Europe and it is subiect to the State of Venice Rhodes lieth in the same Sea and was of old famous for the residence of the Knights of Hierusalem but at this day is possessed by the Turkes driuing out those Knights who now haue their residence in Malta an Iland neere that of Sicily Cyprus is an Iland in the same Sea and is most fertile yeelding Canes of Hony whence Suger is made and rich Wines and aboundiug with many things required for life and for pleasure and this Iland the Turks in the last Age took from the Venetians by force of Armes the chiefe Cities whereof are Famagosta and Nicosia The Archipelagus hath innumerable Ilands whereof the principall and most fruitfull are Tenedos small in circuit but famovs by the Nauy of the Greekes harbouring there at the siege of Troy Lesbos Lemnos Mitelene at this day called Metalon of the chiefe City Samnus of old called Sicania where Hypocrates was borne and Chios now called Zio more esteemed then any of the rest for the Marble Malmesey wine Masticke the iuyce or gumme of the tree called Lentiscus and no lesse for the many rich commodities it yeelds then for the goodnes and largenes of the soyle The Ilands of the Indian Sea belong not to the Turkes and therefore I will omit them The Turkish Empire stretcheth it selfe yet farther containing great part of Affrica which by the Grecians was called Libia and the word in the Greek tongue signifying horror and cold gaue the name to Africa as being void of cold The Mountaine Atlas in Affrick as Taurus in Asia which in some parts is called Caucasus and Imaus as the Mountaines of Europe are generally called the Alpes doth diuide this Countrie into many parts stretching it selfe towards the East and so forward to Nilus which parts or Prouinces are knowne by these names Mauritanta Affrica the lesser Syrenaica Marmarica AEgyptus Lybia AEthiopia the Regions vnder the Mountaines of Luna and the Ilands 1 Mauritania Tingitana containes two Kingdomes Fessa whereof the King of Spaine holds som part and Morcco subiect to the Turkes Of old it had these townes Tingis Metropolitane and Luxon neere which are the Gardens Hesperides which the Poets fable to haue Aples and trees of gold At this day the two chiefe Cities are called Fessa and Morocco At the Straight Sea betweene Spaine and Affricke the mountaines Abila in Affrick and Calpa in Spaine are of that forme as men would iudge they were once ioyned whereupon the Poets fable that Hercules deuided them and did let in the Ocean and so made the Mediterranean sea and for this cause the Straight is called the narrow Sea of Hercules and the Pillars of Hercules were erected on Affrickes side which the Emperour Charles the fifth added to his Coate of Armes Mauritania Caesariensis was also called Numidia for the people being rich in Cattell and dwelling in Tents and when they had eaten the grasse of one place then remouing to another were of their pastures called Nomades and after changing a letter became to bee named Numidae 2 Affrica the lesse a most fertile Region of old is at this day called the Kingdome of Tunis and the chiefe Citis are Hippon Metropolitan where Saint Austin was Bishop Vtica renowned for hauing Cato a Citizen Carthage where Tertullian was borne Tunis at this day chiefe Madaura where Lucius Apuleius was borne and Iacapa where the Vines are said to yeeld Grapes twise in the yeere The Brooke Rubricatus is famous for the Serpent killed there by Attilius Regulus in the time of the first Punike warre The quick-sands or sholes of the Sea adioyning are much feared of Marriners lying sometimes deepe sometimes shallow as the sands are driuen into diuers parts by diuers winds blowing and stormes and they are two The lesse not farre from Carthage the greater towards Syrenaica At this day all this Sea-coast is called Barbary and is subiect to the Turkish Ottoman 3 Sirenaica hath the name of the chiefe Citie Syrene which of old had emulation for greatnesse with Carthage and therein were borne Aristippus the Philosopher Calimachus the Poet and Eratostines the Mathematician and assome say Symon who carried the Crosse of Christ. 4 Marmarica is sandy and of old therein was the Temple of Iupiter called Hammon of the sands and these two Prouinces are annexed to Egypt 5 Egypt is most fertile the very garner of the vniuersall World and famous for the antiquitie of the Kingdome The vpper part thereof was called Thebais the lower towards the Mediterranean Sea was called Deltica of the letter Delta The Cities thereof no lesse famous in these dayes then of old are these Alexandria built by Alexander the great at the mouth of the Riuer Nilus whose body there buried was seene by Augustus and heere Ptolomy was borne who did gather in this Citie the famous Library of seuen hundred thousand volumes which were all consumed by fier The next chiefe Citie is Canopus where stood the Temple of Syrapis or Osyris Then Pelusium at this day called Damiata seated vpon the mouth of Nilus called Pelusium Lastly the chiefe Citie of all is Babylon built by the Babylonians permitted to dwell there which at this day is hugely increased and is called Alcaiero that is This Caiero from whence some fortie
CONTAINING HIS TEN YEERES TRAVELL THROVGH THE TWELVE DOMJNIONS OF Germany Bohmerland Sweitzerland Netherland Denmarke Poland Jtaly Turky France England Scotland and Ireland Diuided into III Parts THE I. PART Containeth a Iournall through all the said twelue Dominions Shewing particularly the number of miles the soyle of the Country the situation of Cities the descriptions of them with all Monuments in each place worth the seeing as also the rates of hiring Coaches or Horses from place to place with each daies expences for diet horse-meate and the like THE II. PART Containeth the Rebellion of Hugh Earle of Tyrone and the appeasing thereof written also in forme of a Iournall THE III. PART Containeth a Discourse vpon seuerall Heads through all the said seuerall Dominions AT LONDON Printed by John Beale dwelling in Aldersgate street 1617. HONI SOIT QVI MAL Y PENSE WITH the Kings Maiesties full and sole Priuiledge to the Author Fynes Moryson Gent. his Executors Administrators Assignes and Deputies for 21 yeeres next ensuing to cause to be imprinted and to sell assigne and dispose to his or their best benefit this Booke and Bookes as well in the English as in the Latin tongue as well these three Parts finished as one or two Parts more thereof not yet finished but shortly to be perfected by him Sraitly forbidding any other during the said yeeres to imprint or cause to be imprinted to import vtter or sell or cause to be imported vttered or sold the said Booke or Bookes or any part thereof within any of his Maiesties Dominions vpon paine of his Maiesties high displeasure and to forfet three pounds lawfull English money for euery such Booke Bookes or any part thereof printed imported vttered or sold contrary to the meaning of this Priuiledge besides the forfeture of the said Book Books c. as more at large appeareth by his Maiesties Letters Patents dated the 29 of Aprill in the fifteenth yeere of his Maiesties raigne of England France and Ireland and of Scotland the fiftieth To the Right Honourable VVJLLJAM EARLE OF PEMBROKE Lord Chamberlaine of his Maiesties Houshold one of his Maiesties most Honourable Priuie Counsell and Knight of the most noble Order of the GARTER c. Right Honourable SInce I had the happinesse imputed to Salomons Seruants by the Queene of Sheba to stand sometimes before You an eye and eare witnes of your Noble conuersation with the worthy Earle of Deuonshire my deceased Lord and Master I euer admired your vertues and much honoured your Person And because it is a thing no lesse commendable gladly to receiue fauours from men of eminent worth then with like choice to tender respect and seruice to them I being now led by powerfull custome to seeke a Patron for this my Worke and knowing that the weakest frames need strongest supporters haue taken the boldnes most humbly to commend it to your Honours protection which vouchsafed it shall triumph vnder the safegard of that massy shield and my selfe shall not only acknowledge this high fauour with humblest thankefulnesse but with ioy imbrace this occasion to auow myselfe now by publike profession as I haue long been in priuate affection Your Honours most humble and faithfull seruant FYNES MORYSON To the Reader FOr the First Part of this Worke it containes only a briefe narration of daily iournies with the rates of Coaches or Horses hired the expences for horses and mans meat the soyle of the Country the situation of Townes and the descriptions thereof together with all things there worthy to be seene which Treatise in some obscure places is barren and vnpleasant espetially in the first beginning of the worke but in other places I hope you will iudge it more pleasant and in some delightfull inducing you fauorably to dispence with the barrennes of the former inserted only for the vse of vnexperienced Trauellers passing those waies Againe you may perhaps iudge the writing of my daily expences in my iournies to be needles vnprofitable in respect of the continuall change of prices and rates in all Kingdoms but they can neuer be more subiect to change then the affaies of Martiall and ciuill Policie In both which the oldest Histories serue vs at this day to good vse Thirdly and lastly touching the First Part of this VVorke when you read my expences in vnknowne Coynes you may iustly require the explaning of this obscurity by expression of the values in the English Coynes But I pray you to consider that the adding of these seuerall values in each daies iourny had been an Herculean labour for auoiding whereof I haue first set before the First Part a briefe Table expressing the value of the small Coynes most commonly spent and also haue expresly particularly for each Dominion and most part of the Prouinces set downe at large how these values answer the English Coynes in a Chapter written of purpose to satisfie the most curious in this point namely the fifth Chapter of the third Booke being the last of this First Part in which Chapter also I haue briefly discoursed of the best means to exchange monies into forraigne parts Touching the VVorke in generall I wil truly say that I wrote it swiftly and yet slowly This may seeme a strange Riddle and not to racke your wit with the interpretation my selfe will expound it I wrote it swiftly in that my pen was ready and nothing curious as may appeare by the matter and stile and I wrote it slowly in respect of the long time past since I viewed these Dominions and since I tooke this worke in hand So as the VVorke may not vnfitly bee compared to a nose-gay of flowers hastily snatched in many gardens and with much leasure vet carelesly and negligently bound together The snatching is excused by the haste necessary to Trauellers desiring to see much in short time And the negligent binding in true iudgement needs no excuse affected curiositie in poore subiects being like rich imbroidery laid vpon a frize ierken so as in this case onely the trifling away of mxch time may bee imputed to my ignorance dulnes or negligence if my iust excuse be not heard in the rendering whereof I must craue your patience During the life of the worthy Earle of Deuonshire my deceased Lord I had little or no time to bestow in this kind after his deth I lost fully three yeers labor in which I abstracted the Histories of these 12 Dominiōs thorow which I passed with purpose to ioyne them to the Discourses of the seuerall Commonwealths for illustration and ornament but when the worke was done and I found the bulke there of to swel then I chose rather to suppresse them then to make my gate bigger then my Citie And for the rest of the yeers I wrote at leasure giuing like a free and vnhired workeman much time to pleasure to necessary affaires and to diuers and long distractions If you consider this and with all remember that the worke is first written in Latine
a stranger and a boat daily passeth from Stode thither in some three houres space if the winde bee not contrary wherein each man paies three Lubecke shillings for his passage but all Passengers without difference of condition must help to rowe or hire one in his stead except the winde bee good so as they need not vse their Oares besides that the annoyance of base companions will easily offend one that is any thing nice Hamburg is a Free Citie of the Empire and one of them which as I said are called Hansteten and for the building and populousnesse is much to be praised The Senate house is very beautifull and is adorned with carued statuaes of the nine Worthies The Exchange where the Merchants meet is a very pleasant place The Hauen is shut vp with an iron chaine The Citie is compassed with a deepe ditch and vpon the East and North sides with a double ditch and wall Water is brought to the Citie from an Hil distant some English mile by pipes of wood because those of lead would be broken by the yce and these pipes are to bee seene vnder the bridge whence the water is conuaied by them vnto each Citizens house The Territory of the Citie extendeth a mile or two and on one side three miles out of the walles It hath nine Churches and six gates called by the Cities to which they lead It is seated in a large plaine and a sandy soyle but hath very fatte pasture ground without On the South side and some part of the West it is washed with the Riuer Elue which also putteth a branch into the Towne but on the North and somewhat on the East side the Riuer Alster runneth by towards Stode and falleth into the Elue The streets are narrow excepting one which is called Broad-street vulgarly Breitgasse The building is all of bricke as in all the other Sea-bordering Cities lying from these parts towards Flanders and all the beautie of the houses is in the first entrance hauing broad and faire gates into a large Hal the lower part whereof on both sides is vsed for a Ware-house and in the vpper part lying to the view of the doore the chiefe houshold-stuffe is placed and especially their vessell of English Pewter which being kept bright makes a glittering shew to them that passe by so as the houses promise more beauty outwardly then they haue inwardly Here I paid each meale foure Lubeck shillings and one each night for my bed The Citizens are vnmeasurably ill affected to the English to whom or to any stranger it is vnsafe to walke out of the gates after noone for when the common people are once warmed with drinke they are apt to doe them iniury My selfe one day passing by some that were vnloading and telling of Billets heard them say these words Wirft den zehenden auff des Englanders kopf that is cast the tenth at the Englishmans head But I and my companions knowing well their malice to the English for the remouing their trafficke to Stode were content silently to passe by as if we vnderstood them not Hence I went out of the way to see Lubeck an Imperiall Citie and one of the aboue named Hans-townes being tenne miles distant from Hamburg Each of vs for our Coach paid twentie Lubeck shillings and going forth early wee passed through a marish and sandy plaine and many woods of Oakes which in these parts are frequent as woods of Firre be in the vpper part of Germany and hauing gone six miles we came to a Village called Altslow for the situation in a great marish or boggy ground where each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubeck shillings and a halfe our Dutch companions contributing halfe that money for drinke after dinner In the afternoone we passed the other foure miles to Lubeck in the space of foure houres and vntill we came within halfe a mile of the towne wee passed through some thicke woods of Oake with some faire pastures betweene them for the Germans vse to preserue their woods to the vttermost either for beautie or because they are so huge frequent as they cannot be consumed When we came out of the woods wee saw two faire rising Hills and the third vpon which Lubeck was feated On the top of this third Hill stood the faire Church of Saint Mary whence there was a descent to all the gates of the Citie whose situation offered to our eyes a faire prospect and promised great magnificence in the building The Citie is compassed with a double wall one of bricke and narrow the other of earth and broad fastned with thicke rowes of willowes But on the North side and on the South-east side there were no walles those parts being compassed with deepe ditches full of water On the South-east side the water seemeth narrow but is so deepe as ships of a thousand tunne are brought vp to the Citie to lie there all winter being first vnladed at Tremuren the Port of the City lying vpon the Baltick Sea To this Port one mile distant from Lubeck we came in three houres each man paying for his Coach fiue Lubeck shillings and foure for our dinner and returned backe the same night to Lubeck The building of this City is very beautifull all of bricke and it hath most sweete walkes without the walles The Citizens are curious to auoid ill smels to which end the Butchers haue a place for killing their beasts without the walles vpon a running streame Water is brought to euery Citizens house by pipes and all the Brewers dwelling in one street haue each of them his iron Cock which being turned the water fals into their vessels Though the building of this towne be of the same matter as that of the neighbouring townes yet it is much preferred before them for the beautie and vniformitie of the houses for the pleasant gardens faire streets sweete walkes without the walles and for the Citizens themselues who are much commended for ciuilty of manners and the strict execution of Iustice. The poore dwell in the remote-streets out of the common passages There is a street called the Funst Haussgasse that is the street of fiue houses because in the yeere 1278. it was all burnt excepting fiue houses since which time they haue a law that no man shall build of timber and clay except he diuide his house from his neighbours with a bricke wall three foot broad and that no man shall couer his house with any thing but tiles brasse or leade The forme of this Citie is like a lozing thicke in the midst and growing narrower towards the two ends the length whereof is from the gate called Burke Port towards the South to Millen Port towards the North. Wee entred the Towne by Holtz Port on the West side to which gate Hickster Port is opposite on the East side It is as long againe as broad and two streets Breitgasse that is Broad-street and Konnigsgasse that is Kings-street runne the whole
halfe long and about three quarters broad and little or nothing thicker then a French crowne They shew also foure Crosses of pure gold which they said a certaine Queene once tooke from them but presently fell lunatike neither could be cured vntill she had restored them In the open streets some Monuments are set on the walles in honour of certaine Citizens who died in a nights tumult when the Duke hoped to surprize the City I said that the Senate house is stately built in which they shew to strangers many vessels of gold and siluer of a great value and quantity for a City of that quality From Luneburg I returned to Hamburg whither I and my company might haue had a Coach for 4. Dollors But we misliking the price hired a waggon for three Lubeck shillings each person to Wentzon three miles distant from Luneburg Here the Duke of Lunebergs territory ends to whom each man paid a Lubeck shilling for tribute my selfe onely excepted who had that priuiledge because I went to study in the Vniuersities Here each man paied two Lubeck shillings for a Waggon to the Elue side being one mile and the same day by water wee passed other three miles to Hamburg not without great noy somnesse from some base people in the boat for which passage we paied each man three Lubeck shillings Let me admonish the Reader that if when we tooke boat we had onely crossed the Elue we might haue hired a Waggon from Tolspecker a Village to Hamburg being three miles for two Dollors amongst six persons Being at Hamburg and purposing to goe vp into Misen because I had not the language I compounded with a Merchant to carry mee in his Coach and beare my charges to Leipzig for tenne gold Guldens The first day hauing broke our faste at Hamburg we passed seauen miles ouer the Heath of Luneburg and lodged in a Village In our way we passed many Villages of poore base houses and some pleasant groues but all the Countrey was barren yet yeelded corne in some places though in no plenty The second day we came to a little City Corneiler through a Countrey as barren as the former and towards our iourneis end wee passed a thicke wood of a mile long The third day we went seuen miles to Magdenburg which is counted sixe and twenty miles from Hamburg and this day we passed a more fertile Countrey and more wooddy and they shewed me by the way an Hill called Bockesberg famous with many ridiculous fables of Witches yeerely meeting in that place This City of old called Parthenopolis of Venus Parthenea is now called Magdenburg that is the City of Virgins for an Inland City is very faire and the Germans speake much of the fortification because Mauricius Elector of Saxony besieged it a whole yeere with the Emperour Charles the fifth his Army yet tooke it not Howbeit I thinke that not so much to bee attributed to the strength of the City as to the distracted mind of the besieger who in the meane time sollicited the French King to ioyne with the Dutch Princes to free Germanie from the Emperours tyranny and the French Army being once on foot himselfe raised forces against the Emperour The forme of this City is like a Moone increasing the Bishopricke thereof is rich and the Margraue of Brandeburg his eldest sonne did then possesse it together with the City and territory by the title of Administrator in which sort he also held the Bishopricke of Hall and he lay then at Wormested a Castle not farre of In the market place there is a Statua erected to the Emperour Otho the Great founder of that City and Munster writes of another statua erected to Rowland which I remember not to haue seene In the Senate-house they shewed a singular picture made by one Lucas a famous Painter dead some thirty yeeres before where also is the picture of that monstrous German with all the dimensions of his body who not long before was led about the world to be shewed for a wonder This man I had not seene but in this picture I could scarce reach the crowne of his head with the point of my rapier and many of good credit told me that they had seene this mans sister halfe an ell higher then he In the Church that lies neere the market place there is a Font of great worth and a Lute painted with great Art the Cathedrall Church of Saint Maurice was built by Otho the Great very sumptuously where his wife lies buried in the yeere 948. and the inscription is that shee was daughter to Edmund King of England There they shew one of the three vessels in which our Sauiour Christ turned water into wine at Cana in Galile There be in all ten Churches but the aboue named are the fairest Hence we went foureteene miles to Leipzig being a day and a halfes iourney through fruitfull corne fields and a Countrey full of rich Villages the Merchant with whom I went bearing my charges from Hamburg I might haue hired a Coach to Leipzig for sixe persons those of Nurnburg bearing eight for 24. dollers and if a man goe thence to Luneburg he may easily light on a Coach of returne at a lesse rate so that in respect of the cheapnes of victuals in these parts no doubt I gaue the Merchant too much for my charges in this iourney Leipzig is seated in a plaine of most fruitfull corne ground and full of rich Villages in a Countrey called Misen subiect to the Elector Duke of Saxony and the Countrey lying open to the eye in a most ample prospect onely one wood can be seene in this large plaine The streets are faire the market place large and stately and such are the chiefe houses built of free stone foure roofes high there is a conuenient conduit of water in the Suburbs lying towards Prage the ditch is dry the wals of stone threaten ruine neither may the Citizens fortifie the Towne nor vse red waxe in their publike seales nor winde a Horne in their night watches as other Cities doe these and other priuiledges being taken from them in the yeere 1307. when they killed their Duke Ditzmanus in Saint Thomas Church Out of this City they haue as many Cities in Germany haue a beautifull place to bury their dead called Gods-aker vulgarly Gotts-aker where the chiefe Citizens buy places of buriall proper to their families round about the Cloisters and the common sort are buried in the midst not couered with any building Here I found this Epitaph the numerall Letters whereof shew the yeere when the party died FoeLIX qVI In DoMIno nIXVs ab orbe fVgIt And like Epitaphs are ordinarily found through Germany This Citie hath an Vniuersity and in the yeere 1480. the Students of Prage remoued hither to flie the Hussites warre but at this day the Vniuersitie is much decayed by reason that Wittteberg lieth neere hauing better conueniency for the Schollers liuing From hence I
vessels of gold and siluer are set forth at the feasts and when the drinking is at hottest the statua of a horseman by worke of great Art comes out of the Rocke and presents each stranger with a huge boule of wine which he must drinke off for his welcome without expecting that any should pledg him In the next chamber belonging to this stoue is a bedstead of marble and both haue hangings of gold lether There is another chamber and another stoue like these and aboue them in the vppermost loft there be many little roomes whereof one is furnished with speares another with saddles among them I remember one which in the pummell borea gilded head with eyes continually mouing in the hinder part had a clocke the rest are furnished with swords shields helmets and fethers Among the swords euery Prince hath his owne which the successours vse not to weare and there is one belonging to the Electorship when he exerciseth his office as Marshal of the Empire There was another Sword hauing in the hilt two little Pistols Here I saw laid vp an Iron chaine in which they said that Duke Henry the Father of Manrice the first Elector of this Family should haue beene hanged in the Low Countries who escaping brought the same with him and laid it vp here for memory After the Funerall of Christianus returning from Friburg to this Towne I found onely fifteene of those choice Horses in the stable all the rest hauing beene giuen to Princes comming to the Funerall The Dukes Pallace in Dresà en was built by Mauricius part of the City wals and the gates were built by Augustus who did also lay the foundation of this Stable But Christianus the Elector perfected the wals of the City with the close gallery ouer them and built this famous stable setting this inscription vpon the wals in Latine Christianus Duke of Saxony Heire to Augustus the Elector of happy memory and imitator of his vertues caused this Stable to be built and the Yard adioyning to be fitted for Tilting and military exercises the present age c. The Armory at Dresden is no lesse worth the noting wherein were Armes and all kind of munition for seuenty thousand men but of late it had been somewhat emptied by an expedition into France vndertaken by the Duke at the solicitation of the Count of Turin Ambassadour for Henry the fourth King of France The Duke was at great charge in keeping Garison Souldiers at Dresden and Officers as well for the stable as the Armory In these parts and no where else in Germany they vse boats of a hollow tree driuen not by Oares but by battledores whereof I saw many vpon the Elue as likewise water mils swimming vpon boates and remoued from place to place the like whereof was since made at London by a Dutchman but became vnprofitable by the ebbing and flowing of Thames At Dresden I paid seuen grosh a meale Hence in our Coach hired as aforesaid we passed foure miles to Friburg through fruitful Hils and Mountaines of corne but few or no Woods and here we paid each man fixe grosh a meale This City is of a round forme compassed of all sides with Mountaines hauing many Vauts or Caues vnder it by which the Citizens enter and goe out of the City by night to worke in the siluer Mines Yet hath the City two walles and two ditches but altogether dry It hath fiue gates and foure Churches among which Saint Peter's Church is the fairest The Elector hath his Castle in the City and in the Church as I remember of Saint Peter wherein the Dukes vse to be buried Mauricius hath a very faire monument of blacke Marble raised in three piles whereof each is decked with diuets statuaes of white Marble and Alablaster whereof two Belong to Mauricius the one in posture of praying the other armed and receining a deadly wound Two Monuments were begun but not then perfected for Augustus and Christianus The territory of Friburg abounds with siluer Mines wherof some and fine hundred fadomes deepe some seuen hundred and some nine hundred and after each thirty fadomes the earth is supported with great beames of timber lest it should fall and from each of these buildings winding staires of wood are made to descend to the bottome The Citizens liue of these Mines and grow rich thereby whereof the Elector hath his proper part and vseth to buy the parts of the Citizens The worke-men vse burning Lampes vnder the earth both day and night and vse to worke as well by night as by day and they report that comming neere the purest veins of siluer they are often troubled with euill spirits These worke-men goe out to the Mines by night through the Caues vnder the City and being called backe from worke by the sound of a bell they come in the same way The water which the worke-men vse springeth in a mountain an arrow shot from the Town whence falling to a lower mountaine it is conuaied by hollow trees to fall vpon the wheeles of the mils so as a little quantity thereof driueth them These Mils draw the water vp out of the Mines for the depth of forty fadome whence it runneth in pipes towards the City Whe they try purify the siluer first with water they wash away the red earth then they beat the mettall with a hand hammer and thus broken they cast it into the fire which they make in the open ayre lest the workmen should be stifled with the fume of the brimstone Then they melt the mettall six times by a fire made of whole trees in a little house adioyning Then in another house they seuer the mettall from the earth with a siue Then againe they beat the mettall with an hammer driuen by a Mill and thus beaten they wash it vpon three clothes hanging slopewise and the purest siluer stickes to the vppermost cloth This done they melt it againe six times and the best of the drosse is lead and siluer the rest copper and this siluer and lead being againe melted the lead falles from the siluer like dust The fier wherein they try this siluer is so hot as it consumeth the bricke Furnaces in three daies The workemen besides their hier vse to bee rewarded for expedition of the worke The meanes by which they find siluer are very strange being by a rod which vulgarly they call Chassel-wand or the Diuine Rod which they carry in their hands and when they goe ouer siluer they say the Rod bends or breakes if it be straightly held and there were not aboue seuen men in this Citie which had skill of this mystery The waies are planted with trees to direct passengers lest as they goe to the Citie they should fall into the Mines for as they report it hath often happened that the Citizens themselues haue perished in this sort and the like mischance happened lately to fiue workemen though skilfull in the waies These Mines of Friburg were
Inne I light vpon this commodity of a Coach which hath freed me from the annoyance of the water and Marriners Imbrace in my name our common friend G. B. and of my louing hosts family let not a whelpe goe vnsaluted Farewell honest M. and returne me loue for loue from Dresden the seuenth of March 1591. My selfe and foure consorts hired a Coach for 14. dollers from Dresden to Prage The first day we went three miles to Gottleben a Village where we paid fiue Bohemian groshe that is sixe white groshe each man for his dinner Halfe the way was on the West side of the Riuer Elue in a fertile plaine then we passed the Elue and trauelled through mountaines yet fertile and a baggy wood After dinner we went two miles to a Village where we lodged through stony mountaines without any wood and in the mid way there was a woodden pillar which diuided the territory of the Saxon Elector from the kingdome of Bohemis The second day we went two miles throgh stony Mountains bearing not one tree to Ansig a little City where we paid for our breakefast foure Bohemian groshes The same day we passed three miles in a straight between rocks lying vpon the Elue two short miles throgh fruitful corn fields to Wedin lying vpō the riuer Aegra which runs a little below into the Elue but was here at this time so deep by a floud or melting of snow as our Coach in comming to the bridge of Wedin by the bank side tooke water The third day we passed a miles to a village called Welber or Welberg through fruitfull hils of corn without any wood there each man paid 5 Bohemian grosh for his dinner In the afternoone wee went three miles for the most part through fruitfull hils of come the rest through Rockes and Mountaines planted with Vines and so came to Prage through which the Riuer Molda runneth but is not nauigable On the West side of Molda is the Emperours Castle seated on a most high Mountaine in the fall whereof is the Suburbe called Kleinseit or little side From this Suburbe to goe into the City a long stone bridge is to be passed ouer Molda which runnes from the South to the North and diuides the suburbe from the City to which as you goe on the left side is a little City of the Iewes compassed with wals and before your eies towards the East is the City called new Prage both which Cities are compassed about with a third called old Prage So as Prage consists of three Cities all compassed with wals yet is nothing lesse then strong and except the stinch of the streetes driue backe the Turkes or they meet them in open field there is small hope in the fortifications thereof The streets are filthy there be diuers large market places the building of some houses is of free stone but the most part are of timber and clay and are built with little beauty or Art the walles being all of whole trees as they come out of the wood the which with the barke are laid so rudely as they may on both sides be seen Molda in the winter vseth to be so frozen as it beareth carts and the ice thereof being cut in great peeces is laid vp in cellers for the Emperour and Princes to mingle with their wine in summer which me thinkes can neither be sauory nor healthfull since neither the heat of the clime nor the strength of the Bohemian wines being small and sharpe require any such cooling One thing they boast to be proper to that kingdome that the Elue Aegra Molda and all other Riuers watering Bohemia haue their spring heads in the same In publike Innes they demand some six Bohemian grosh for a meale yet doe they not commonly giue meales at an ordinary rate as they doe through all Germany but what meate you require that they dresse and the seruant buying all things out of doores after the manner of Poland maketh a reckoning of the expences My selfe had my diet with a Citizen very conueniently for a doller and a halfe weekely I did here eat English Oysters pickeld and a young Bohemian comming in by chance and tasting them but not knowing the price desired the Merchant to giue him a dish at his charge which contained some twenty Oysters and finding them very sauoury hee called for fiue dishes one after another for which the Merchant demanded and had of him fiue dollers the dearnesse no lesse displeasing his minde then the meate had pleased his taste As you passe ouer Molda from the Suburbe Kleinseit into the City there is a hand of stone as it were cut off vpon the gate of the City signifying to strangers that whosoeuer drawes a sword there or vpon the bridge looseth his hand and the like hand there is to the same purpose on the Senate house in the towne The Emperour hath two inclosures walled about which they call Gardaines one of which is called Stella because the trees are planted in the figure of starres and a little faire house therein is likewise built with six corners in forme of a starre And in this place he kept 12-Cammels an Indian Oxe yellow all ouer rugged and hairy vpon the throate like a Lyon and an Indian Calfe and two Leopards which were said to be tame if such wild beasts may be tamed They were of a yellow colour spotted with blacke the head partly like a Lyon partly like a Cat the tayle like a Cat the body like a Greyhound and when the hunts-man went abroad at call they leaped vp behind him sitting vpon the horse like a dog on the hinder parts being so swift in running as they would easily kill a Hart. I remember that a gentleman of Hungary walking in the streetes with me and obseruing a picture on a wall of a German protecting an Hungarian from a Turke with this inscription Not for thy sake but my owne tooke this occasion to complaine much of the Emperour and relate many things wherein his prodigality and other errours had ouerthrowne Hungary and had done nothing lesse then ease their afflicted fortunes In the Church Emaus this inscription is grauen ¶ The tenour of King Alexander the Great his c. Wee Alexander the Great of King Phillip the founder of the Grecian Empire Conquerour of the Persians Meades c And of the whole World from the East to West from North to South sonne of great Iupiter by c. so called To you the noble stocke of the Sclauonians and to your language because you haue beene to me helpers true in faith and valiant in warre I confirme all this tract from the North to the South parts of Italy from me and my successours to you and your posterity If any other Nation be found there let them be your slaues Dated in our City of Alexandria newly founded by vs vpon the great Riuer of Nilus the twelfth of the Goddesse Minerua witnesses are Aethra and the II. Princes
forraine yet no man must wonder that wee spent more in wine then meat all my consorts being Dutch-men The fifth day wee went in the Phaltzgraues Countrey foure miles to Amberg through fruitfull Hils of corne and some few Woods and this City belongs to the Phaltzgraue being seated in the vpper Palatinate After dinner we went in the Marquesse of Anspach his Country who is also called the Burggaue of Nurnberg two miles to Hous-coate a Village where each man paid six Batzen for his supper The sixt day we went three miles passing by Erspruck a Citie subject to the Nurnbergers and many villages belonging to diuets Lords and a fort in the mid way called Schwang belonging to seuenty two Lords and being then by course in the Phaltzgraues keeping for all these Lords keepe the same by course for three yeeres The first and greater part of the way was through fruitfull Hils of corne the rest through sandy pastures and a Wood of a miles length Wee dined at a poore Village each man for six Batzen After dinner we went two miles to Nurnberg through sandy corne fields and passed by many houses and gardens of the Citizens whether they vse to come out of the City sometimes to recreate themselues The Wood which we passed in the morning lay on our left hand towards the South as wee entred the Citie on the east side and not farre from the City turneth itselfe and runneth farther towards the South The City of Nurnberg seated in a barren sandy ground yet is very rich by the Citizens industry For as commonly few be rich in a fertile Countrey either because hauing enough for food they are giuen to idlenesse or because abundance makes them prodigall so the Nurnbergers planted in a barren soyle by their subtile inuentions of Manuall workes and cunning Art draw the riches of all Countries to them The Riuer Bengetts runnes by the Citie but is not Nauigable nor beareth any the least boats This Riuer runnes from the East where wee entred the Towne towards the gate Lauff-thore and so compasseth the suburbs towards the South where diuiding into two beds it entreth the City and comming out againe at the West washeth the Citie walles On the East side the Margraues of Brandeburg besieged the City at the command of Charles the fifth therefore on this and the South side besides a dry ditch and two stone walles compassing the whole City diuers Bulwarkes are built vpon the wall On all sides as you come vp to the City the earth riseth and almost at euery gate there is a long suburbe Vpon the walles there be many Towers distant one from the other some 1000 ordinary walking paces and the vvhole circuit of the City is lesse then a German mile Among the said Towers three are stronger then the rest and furnished with Artillery The first is on the East side neere the gate Lauff-thore The second is on the South side vnder the gate Fraw-thore and on the same side is the gate Spittle-thore The third is on the North side vnder the gate New-thore and on the same side is another gate called Burk-thore There is a Castle called Burk which by Nero the Emperour was of his name called Noricum Castrum It is certaine that this Castle stood in the time of Charles the Great and the City being of it selfe not ancient is thought to haue had his name of this Castles old Latine name On the VVest side is the gate Haller-thore so called of him that caused it to be built where is a pleasant walke thicke shadowed with trees where the Citizens vse to walke for pleasure The City is absolute of it selfe being one of the free Cities of the Empire and mee thinks the chief or at least second to Augsburg surely it may perhaps yield to Augsburg in treasure and riches of the City but it must be preferred for the building whichis all of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high I speake of the whole City of Augsburg for one street thereof is most beautifull and some Pallaces there are fit for Princes of which kind Nurnberg hath none The Tower which I said was of old called Noricum Castrum hangs ouer the City which being seated in a plaine hath no mounts neere it and is of a round forme The said Tower is compassed with a drie ditch very deepe vpon the wall whereof they shaw a Spaniards blood there sprinkled who vndertooke to betray the Castle to Charles the fifth as also the print of a Horses feete in memory of a wonderfull leape from the Castle side to the other side of the bridge The Senate House lies vnder the side of this Castle or Tower as it were vnder the shield of Aiax and vnder the same house and vnder the earth be the publike prisons The Armory is built on the South side of the Towne and is opened to no man without consent of the Senate which in all other Cities of Germany is readily shewed to strangers And in that Armory by the Citizens report they haue 400. great peeces of Artillery with great store of all Munitions The City hath also a Granary which is so large as diuers yeeres prouision for corne may be laid vp therein It hath teri Churches whereof onely foure are vsed for prayers and preaching and in one of them lies buried Zebalemus-King of Denmarke who first conuerted the City to Christian Religion Neere the Church of Saint Laurence is the golden fountaine so called of the beauty and magnificence and it distils water out of twenty leaden pipes Neere the Church called Frawenkirk is another faire Fountaine guilded ouer and compassed with an iron grate It is vnlawful to walke in the night without a torch or a candle and lanthorne In the Innes they giue no beere at the table but diuers kinds of wine and a large diet if not delicate for which euery man paieth sixe batzen a meale and besides for his chamber or lodging which he may haue priuate to himselfe three creitzers by the day In the Almes-houses out of gifts by the last testament of those that die they maintaine great numbers of poore people and in one of them twelue old men apart and in another twelue old men and as many old weomen Whilst I liued at Prage and one night had set vp very late drinking at a feast early in the morning the Sunne beames glancing on my face as I lay in bed I dreamed that a shadow passing by told me that my father was dead at which awaking all in a sweat and affected with this dreame I rose and wrote the day and houre and all circumstances thereof in a paper booke which Booke with many other things I put into a barrel and sent it from Prage to Stode thence to be conuaied into England And now being at Nurnberg a Merchant of a noble family well acquainted with me and my friends arriued there who told me that my Father died some two moneths past I list not
write any lies but that which I write is as true as strange When I returned into England some foure yeeres after I would not open the barrell I sent from Prage nor looke on the paper Booke in which I had written this dreame till I had called my sisters and some friends to be witnesses where my selfe and they were astonished to see my written dreame answere the very day of my Fathers death I may lawfully sweare that which my kinsmen haue heard witnessed by my brother Henry whilst he liued that in my youth at Cambridge I had the like dreame of my Mothers death where my brother Henry lying with me early in the morning I dreamed that my mother passed by with a sad countenance and told me that shee could not come to my commencement I being within fiue moneths to proceed Master of Arts and shee hauing promised at that time to come to Cambridge And when I related this dreame to my brother both of vs awaking together in a sweat he protested to me that he had dreamed the very same and when wee had not the least knowledge of our Mothers sickenesse neither in our youthfull affections were any whit affected with the strangenesse of this dreame yet the next Carrier brought vs word of our mothers death Being as I haue said certified of my Fathers death at Nurnberg and thinking not fit to goe on my iourney into Italy and yet being loath to returne into England before I had finished my purposed voyage I tooke the middle counsell to returne into the Low Countries that in those neere places I might dispose of my small patrimony for in England gentlemen giue their younger sonnes lesse then in forraine parts they giue to their bastards and so might leaue the same in the hands of some trusty friend Yet lest I should loose the opportunity of seeing Augsburg meaning to returne some other way into Italy I resolued to goe from hence to Augsburg and then to crosse ouer the West parts of Germany and so to passe along the Riuer Rhein into the Low Countries To Augsburg being two dayes iourney and a halfe I hired of the City Carrier in whose company I went an Horse for two Dollors as I remember The Merchants of Nurnberg and Augsburg giue pensions to eight of these Carriers daily passing betweene those Cities besides the profit they make of letters and other things they carry by horse The first day after breake-fast we rode one mile in a thicke wood and another mile through sandy corne fields somewhat wooddy both in the territory of the Nurnbergers and foure miles more in the territory of the Margraue of Anspach to Blinfield where each man paid for his supper and horse meat sixe batzen The second day we rode foure miles to Monheime through a wood of Iuniper full of blacke berries and barberies at the end whereof was a free City called Wassenberge and after through fruitfull hils and valleies of corne all the territory excepting the free City belonging to the Marshall of the Emperour not of the Empire when we came almost to our iourneies end the Carrier had a guide giuen him according to custome for theeues vsing to lie by that way Monheime belongs to the Phaltz-graue of Newburg being of the family of the Phaltz-graues of Rhein and there we paid each man for his dinner and horse-meat thirty foure creitzers which make eight batzen and a halfe and there we tasted Iuniper wine which I neuer remember to haue tasted else where After dinner we rode two miles and a halfe through fruitfull hils of corne and a small wood of Okes though all the woods of vpper Germany be commonly of firre bearing greene leaues all winter as those of inferiour Germany towards Denmarke be all of Okes. By the way we passed a Monastery granted to the Phaltzgraue of Rhein by the Emperour and a free City of the Empire called Donaward of the two Riuers Danow Werd meeting there and there we passed by bridge the Danow running by the City Then wee rode to Weschendorff two miles and a halfe more through fruitfull fields of corne pastures the Country belonging to the Fugares Citizens of Augsburg to diuers other Lords The Castle of this place belongs to the said Fugares who are rich famous for their treasure though they haue princely reuenues the title of barons yet stil are merchants here each man paid for his supper hors-meat 8. batzen a half The third day in the morning we rode three miles to Augsburg through a fruitfull plaine of corne without the wals whereof on the East and North and some part of the South sides the fields are drowned with waters and men passe to the Citie by causies for on these sides the ground lieth low but on the West side is all the beauty of the City where the houses are seated vpon a hill and ther is a place for the Merchants to meet called the Berle and likewise the Senate house in the street Weingasse so called of the Wine cellars There also be many Pallaces stately built of the Fugares and other Citizens all the building is of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high but in other parts it is more poorely built of timber and clay On this West part of the City is the Gate called Kuknerthore and the ditches are dry as they be round about the City the wals are of stone which being on all other sides narrow are on this side broad for vpon the wals of this side there be little houses built for fiue hundred Garrison Souldiers to dwell in with their wiues and families which place is vulgarly called Die schwang Here the Souldiers keep watch each three daies by turne each of them haue for pay six guldens by the moneth and there is a market place whether the Souldiers vpon any difference vse to challenge each other On this West side is another gate vulgarly called Der Einlasse by which passengers are receiued into the City by night when the gates are shut and this their entrance is so curiously admitted as many strangers desirous to see the fashion suffer themselues of purpose to be locked out at night and willingly giue a reward to the souldiers letting them in when they receiue in those that are shut out diuers gates are opened and no man being seene to open them are presently shut on the back of them that come in then they being thus shut as it were in a prison a box is put downe to them in which they cast a reward which done the Watch-men out of win dowes behold each man that is to enter and so being safe from all treason let them passe by the last gate into the City On the South side there be two gates Roatthore and Smitbogenthore on the East side the gate Iacoberthore and a little gate called Holeblatten-thorelin On the East side the Riuer Werda the Brooke Lecca running towards the North in three
came to Baltring subiect to a little free Citie called Bubery and here each man paied fiue Batzen for dinner and three for horse-meat Next morning after a miles riding we came to the City Bubery and rode two miles further to Waldshut through woody Mountaines and corne vallies which were so boggey as many times wee had almost stuck fast The Countrey belongs to the Arch-Duke of the family of Inspruck and heere wee paied each man nine Batzen for dinner and horsemeat After dinner wee rode two miles through a woody Country to Rauenspurg a free Citie seated betweene Mountaines whereof one hangeth ouer it and the Riuer Ach runneth by it in a narrow bed so as the waters falling from the Mountaines very swiftly doe many times ouerflow to the great damage of the Countrey and from the Mountaines many woodden pipes conuey water to the City In these parts bee many Almes houses for those that are infected with Leprosie who may not come neere the Passengers but doe beg of them a farre off with the sound of a woodden clapper Heere each man paid for his supper and horse-meat twelue Batzen and a halfe The first day of May we rode three miles one through a Wood the rest through a plaine of corne and inclosed pastures and Hils planted with Vines to the City Lindaw By the way vve saw the house of Count Montfort and passed the Riuer Arba by a Bridge which doth often ouerflow the plaine doing great hurt and there wee paid halfe a Creitzer tribute to the said Count for each man We were now come out of Sueuia and had rode two miles in Algoia and on the left hand towards the South we discouered the mouth of the Alpes which in this place is called Spliego Lindaw is a free City of the Empire which freedome it bought in the yeere 1166 and it is almost an I and seated in the lake called Acronius vulgarly Bodensea being ioyned to the continent by a Bridge of stone on the North-east side where it hath onely one gate called Burg-thore by which wee entred On this side the fields are very pleasant and planted with Vines and neere the Bridge there is a Rampier so old as they say it was erected by the Heathen before any Christians were Hence the City lies in length towards the South West partly on the West and altogether on the South side lies the lake Bodensea that is vpper sea close by the houses of the Citizens where they descend by staires to take water Beyond the lake are most high Mountaines which were then couered with snow and at the foot of the highest Mountaines there is a Tower which they report to be built by Hannibal neere which is the place famous by the defeat of Hasdrubal On this side the City they shew a stone whence they say the Saint called Aurelia passed the lake woe to them that beleeue at one step The Riuer Bregets falleth most violently from the said Mountaines whence also the Rheine discendeth in a narrow bed and may bee passed with horse and foot when it ouerfloweth not Both these runne into the Lake and the Rheine till it come out of the Lake againe loseth the name There is but one Church in the City besides a ruined Monastery The Citizens draw their water to seethe their meat and mingle it with wine not out of the Lake but from Wels. Three Consuls chosen for life and twenty Senators gouerne the City Beyond the Lake in the Territorie of the Arch Dukes of Austria is a bath of great vertue and a Monastery built by Otho the second with great priuiledges vpon a vow hee made being in great danger when he passed the Lake and there murtherers haue a sanctuary There is much salt made in the City and carried thence to other parts Heere I paied each meale six Batzen They drinke altogether wine whereof the measure of the old is giuen for eleuen Creitzers the new for nine of which measures twentie make some twenty two English beere quarts By ill fortune I was here forced to exhibite a Petition to the Consuls both in the Dutch and Latine tongues the euent whereof I will set downe after the Petition The forme whereof in English was this after the Dutch fashion euer tedious in their stiles or titles HOnourable prouident good wise Lords and Consuls I humbly desire you to respect my cause as of a stranger far from his friends and bereaued of his money by deceit Thus my case standeth Being at Nurnberg and purposing thence to goe to Bazell there to study I dealt with a Merchant that hee would exchange my money thither retaining onely so much as would plentifully serue mee for my expences thither There I met with M. B. a Citizen of Lindaw who told me that the gold Guldens of Rheine were not to be spent in these parts without losse So as I finding him acknowledged by the Carriers of this City then being there and by many Nurnbergers for the sonne of a Senator in this Towne was induced to deliuer him some gold Guldens to be paid mee heere in French Crownes and wee comming in company together to this Towne when I saw many principall Citizens gratalate his returne I was induced to deliuer him the rest of my gold Guldens which I had kept for the expence of my iourney vpon his promise to exchange them into French Crownes So as in all hee is to pay mee thirtie two French Crownes wanting six Creitzers for twenty seuen of which French Crownes and thirty six Creitzers I tooke his bill at Nurnberg but the rest I deliuered him here vpon his bare word Heere I expected his payment eight dayes and when I was instant with him to put off the payment no longer he is stoln out of the Towne and his brothers giue me no hope of payment being not so noble as to ponder the case rightly or to haue any due fecling of my state Being in this case not able without money to goe on my iourney or indure the delayes of a sute in Law against him heere all my hope is in your iust helpe which failing me I know not what course to take Therefore I desire earnestly of your worthinesse to assist mee and giue expedition to my cause that I may be deliuered by your goodnesse My debtor while he liued in the publike Inne with mee vsed mee with all curtesie but finding himselfe disinherited by his father lately dead and so dispairing of means to pay me he was now fled to the Monastery beyond the Lake being a sanctuary for wicked-persons and bankrupts He that knowes the honesty of the Dutch will not much maruell that I was thus deceiued by a Dutch-man whom I knew not to be tainted with forraine vices but it grieued me to be thus-scorned by fortune it afflicted me beyond measure that I should bee forced to spend the time dearer to mee then gold in following the Law at Lindaw which I hoped to imploy in
to your Dutch Nation Now as soone as I had pitched my tents at Bazell for me thinkes I am one of the Nomades euery day changing my dwelling I thought fit to giue you account of my iourney whereof I am sure you desire to know the successe I will euer be ruled in doubtfull cases by the counsell of so wise and so good a friend as your selfe but you shall neuer more perswade me to take a iourney on foot which I find vnprofitable for my health purse The other day after dinner by your aduice I took my iourney on foot with more sighes then paces came in foure houres with much paine to the little City Eglisaw and comming to the Inne they offered me meat but I did nothing but so crie out for my bed as you would haue said I was the eldest sonne of sloth To be briefe they being slow to satisfie my desire I flung my selfe on the fether bed without sheetes and so at ease supped on the old fashion with the cloth spread on the bed you gaue me a pleasant companion to guide me the way who made it seeme shorter with his good discourse and was very diligent to serue my occasions next morning early by twilight we began our iourney hauing the gates opened for a little reward You may thinke that I was fresh after my nights rest for a new iourney but I rose early onely to be out of my paine By nine of the clocke in the morning we came to the faire City Zurech which seemed fairer to me at the end of my tedious walke presently I ran into my chamber and with like importunity as before obtained my bed to be made the Mercury you gaue to guide me brought me meat plentifully and there we dined together then because he was to returne to Schafhusen that night I gaue him a Gulden for his paines besides paying his charges and fifteene Creitzers of free gift Each of vs went to our taske he as I thought to goe I to sleepe Since I haue begun I will tell you Historically all circumstances so you promise me not to reproue him but rather to salute and thanke him in my name which if you refuse I coniure you on all loue to read no further After foure houres behold this honest man with a garland of roses on his head a glasse and pot in his hands and well armed with drinke entered my chamber I being halfe asleepe wiped my eies as if I had seene a vision till he drinking to me and importuning me to pledge him made mee know it was no apparition we drunke a whole houre together then in good earnest he went away and did nothing to my knowledge more wisely then that being drunken he left his reckoning of forty eight Creitzers to be paid by me who was sober Neither Ceres nor Bacchia could for twenty houres draw me from bed but the next morning I deliuered your betters to Master Doctor S. who vsed me very curteously and presented mee with a Booke he had lately printed So this Comedy is ended onely I will adde the Epilogue Here at Bazell I can get for no money the Booke of Semlerus de Repub. Heluetica which you commended vnto me at last I found it in a friends study who esteemed it as the apple of his eye yet I so preuailed with him as he let me haue it vpon my faithfull promise that because I meant to blot the same with notes I should procure him a new Booke wherein if you doe not disingage mee by sending the same vnto me I shall forfet the small credit of a stranger Farewell good Sir and I pray you let vs not suffer this sparke of our loue to goe out but rather with often writing let vs set all the coale on fire Againe farewell from Bazell the 24. day of May 1902. From Schafhusen I tooke my iourney on foot as is aboue written and went halfe a mile in the territory of that City and a mile and a halfe in the territory of the Count of 〈◊〉 Sweitzer the lands of Zurech lying on the South side from vs and so wee passed through Mountaines yeelding corne and planted with vines and through woods pastures and a large valley of corne and in foure houres space for the miles of Sweitzerland are so long as they reckon the iourneies of horse or foot by the houres and not by the miles came to Eglisaw and entering the same passed the Riuer Rheine by a Bridge where I paide two creitzers for tribute and there I supped for fiue Batzen The next morning I went two miles on foot in six houres space to Zurech through a long wood and hils of corne which they say are often blasted with haile and through wooddy Mountaines and hils of inclosed pastures with store of Vines planted neere the City which is one of the Cantons of Sweitzerland hauing on the West side the Lake called Zurechsea and the Brooke Limachus hauing his head eight miles further on the same side ruuneth into this lake and after comming out diuideth the City into two parts called the greater and the lesse City hauing three bridges for passage the greater where of the Merchants vse for their meetings The foresaid Lake is three miles long and hath on each side pleasant hils planted with Vines The foresaid Brooke neere the City beareth onely small boates and is all taken vp with water mils but aboue towards the Alpes is deeper and below neere Baden runneth into the Rheine The streetes of Zurech are narrow and the Houses builded of timber and clay and the City it selfe is seated vpon and betweene hils which on the East side of the Brooke grow higher from it On the North-west side is a pleasant Mountaine and a faire meadow for shooting with gunnes and other exercises wherein is a faire Lynden or teyle tree yeelding large and sweet shadow where the Citizens meete to recreate themselues and to feast together The Armes of the City are a Man and Woman called Falix Regula without the City on the South is the foresaid Lake and beyond it the Alpes couered with snow On the West side is a plaine and the Mountaines farre off but on the North and East sides the Mountaines lie neere The Citizens haue a custome that when they goe forth against the enemy they place the Ministers or Pastors in the front or where they may partake the danger and there is a place two miles from the City towards Lucerna where Zwinglius a famous Preacher and reformer of Religion was killed in the field Here I paid each meale six batzen I rode three miles to Baden in three houres and so hired my Horse as besides the price of six or seuen batzen the day I paid as much for the daies in which he returned and also paid the hire and charges of one to bring him backe Most part of our way was in the territory of Zurech through hils of corne and vines and a
plaine of inclosed pastures Entering the City we passed the brooke Limachus by a bridge the Suburbs are built vpon the ascent of a Mountaine and the City on the top of it where there is a Castle vpon a Rocke of old very strong but now ruinated on the North side descending into a valley by the brooke on the right hand or vpon the East side within a musket shot lie the Baths which are famous for medicine and are in number thirty seated on each side the Brooke which diuideth them into Bethora the great and the little In the great diuers Bathes are contained vnder one roofe of a faire house and without the gate are two common to the poore These waters are so strong of brimstone as the very smoake warmeth them that come neere and the waters burne those that touch them Of these one is called the Marques Bath and is so hot as it will scald off the haire of a Hogge many hauing no disease but that of loue how soeuer they faine sickenesse of body come hither for remedy and many times find it Weomen come hither as richly attired as if they came to a marriage for Men Weomen Monkes and Nunnes sit all together in the same water parted with boords but so as they may mutually speake and touch and it is a rule here to shun all sadnes neither is any iealousie admitted for a naked touch The waters are so cleere as a penny may be seene in the bottome and because melancholy must be auoided they recreate themselues with many sports while they sit in the water namely at cards and with casting vp and catching little stones to which purpose they haue a little table swimming vpon the water vpon which sometimes they doe likewise eate These Bathes are very good for Weomen that are barren They are also good for a cold braine and a stomacke charged with rhume but are hurtfull for hot and dry complexions and in that respect they are held better for Weomen then Men. The Innes were wont to pay tribute to the three Cantons of Baden Brucke and Bazell but now Baden alone makes great profit of them by the great concourse of sickely persons and the Parliaments of the Cantons commonly held there I paid for my diet six Batzen a meale From hence I hired a Horse at the same rate as before and passing through woody Mountaines came in three houres riding to the City Brucke By the way I passed the Brooke Russe which runneth from Lucerna into these parts and the boate was drawne by a cable running vpon a wheele by reason of the waters swift course where I paide for my passage sixe creitzers and when I came neere Bruck I passed the Brooke Ara by a bridge paying one creitzer for tribute and here I paid fiue batzen a meale From hence hiring a horse as before I rode in two houres space to Hornsea through steepe Mountaines and a wood of Oake by the way lies Kingsfeld that is Kingly field a Monastery so called because Widowe Queenes and Kings forsaking their Scepters and inferiour Princes were wont of old to enter into this place for the solitary profession of Religion In the same Cloyster of old liued the Friars of Saint Francis order in the building on the right hand as you come in and the Nunnes of Saint Clara on the left hand and both came to the same Chappell the Friars to the body of the Church and the Nunnes to close galleries aboue looking out and hearing through grates The Emperour Albertus being killed by his Nephew in the yeere 1380. at Santbacke three miles distant this Monastery was built for his memory though his bones were buried at Spire The reuenewes of this monastery grew in time to be yeerly forty thousand Guldens which are now appropriated to the common treasure of the Sweitzer Cantons Leopold Duke of Austria lies here buried Ferdinand of Insprucke one of the Archdukes of Austria is Lord of Hornesea all the rest of the territories from Schafhusen to this place belonging to the Cantons of Sweitzerland and here I paid sixe batzen a meale Hence I hired a horse as before and rode in fiue houres to Rheinefeld through fruitfull hils of corne hauing on all sides wooddy Mountaines in sight Here againe I passed the Rheine and paid two raps for my horse and my selfe foot-men paying but one The Rheine passeth by with a violent course and washeth the Towne on the East side Here I paid sixe Batzen a meale Hence hiring a Horse as before I rode in two houres space to Bazell through a faire plaine of corne and pasture lying vpon the Rheine hauing on all sides woody Mountaines in sight and neere the City were most pleasant fields planted with vines to the which fields the territory of the said Arch-duke extendeth on the East side of the Rheine I entered by little Bazell seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine and so passed by a bridge of wood into the greater Bazell seated vpon pleasant hils on the West side of Rheine This City of old was one of the imperiall free Cities but now is ioined to the Cantons of Sweitzerland and was built in the yeere 3 2 hauing the name of a Basiliske slaine by a Knight couered with cristall or of the word Pasell which in Dutch signifies a beaten path or of the greeke word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as a kingly City The lesse Bazell was of old built by an Arch-duke of Austria in preiudice of the greater and after being sold to it for thirty thousand guldens was incorporated therevnto The greater hath many caues vnder the hils and suffered a great earth-quake in the yeere 1346 at which time the Pallace neere the Cathedrall Church fell into the Rheine and another Earth-quake in the yeere 1356. wherein 180. persons were killed all the people flying out of the Towne Eugenius the Pope held a Councell in this City the yeere 1431. The Bridge of wood ioyning the little and great City diuided by the Rheine is broad enough for two carts to passe at once and towards little Bazell six Arches are of stone but towards great Bazell where the Rheine tunneth most swiftly eight Arches are built of wood that they may be more easily repaired and vpon any warre from Germany more readily broken downe This City is of the forme of an half Moone I meane the great City reckoning the lesse for a Suburbe and being seated upon diuers hils on the West side of the Rheine imbraceth betweene the two hornes the lesser City seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine On the West side of the greater the Emperor Rodulphus of Habspurg besieged the City and on this side something towards the North within the walles is a most pleasant greene for walking called peter platz In this place is the Armory of the City and the tribunal of Iustice and some faire houses of priuate men and a most pleasant shade of trees among
said before that the boats and barkes comming downe are sold at the end of the way because they cannot be brought vp against the streame Brisake is seated vpon a round and high Mountaine and though it bee improbable that there should be any want of waters so neere the foot of the Alpes yet this City hath a fountaine where water is sold and a certaine price is giuen for the watering of euery beast VVe passed the other eight miles to Strasburg the same day in eight houres being helped with the same swiftnesse of the Rheine which being oft diuided by the way makes many little Ilands The bridge of Strasburg ouer the Rheine is more then a Musket shot from the City on the East side therof The bridge is of wood and hath threescore fiue Arches each distant from the other twenty walking paces and it is so narrow that an horse-man can hardly passe by a cart it lying open on both sides and it is built of small pieces of timber laid a crosse which lye loose so as one end being pressed with any weight the other is lifted vp with danger to fall into the water It is like they build no stronger bridge either because they haue tryed that the swift course of the Rheine will easily breake it downe or because in the time of warre it may be good for them to breake it in which case it were farre greater charge to rebuild it with stone then with wood The Rheine lying thus farre off from the City the boats are brought vp to the same by a little channell The brookes of Bress and Elb passe through many streets of the City and fill all the large ditches thereof with water The City is very well fortified hauing high walles of earth the bottomes whereof are fastned with stone and the sides with trees planted on the same On the VVest side towards France are the gates Weissen-thore and Rheine-thore On the East side toward the Rheine is the gate Croneberg-thore at which though it be out of the way for the iealousie of neighbour-hood the French must enter and at no other On the East side is the Butchers gate called Metsiger-thore On the same side is the Cathedrall Church The circuit of the Cty is three houres walking The buildings and Churches are faire and high of free stone most of the streets are narrow but those diuided by water are broader I paied six Batzen a meale and for wine extraordinary three Batzen the measure Many things in this City are remarkable The Steeple of the Cathedrall Church is most beautifull and numbred among the seuen miracles of the world being begun in the yeere 1277 and scarce finished in twentie eight yeeres In the building of one gate thereof they say three Kings treasure was spent in whose memory three statuaes are there ingrauen The Church is couered with lead which is rare in Germany where the chiefe Churches are couered with brasse growing in the Countrey The brazen gates of this church are curiously carued The Clocke thereof is of all other most famous being inuented by Conradus Dasipodius in the yeere 1571. Before the Clocke stands a globe on the ground shewing the motion of the heauens starres and planets namely of the heauen carried about by the first mouer in twenty foure houres of Saturne by his proper motion carried about in thirty yeeeres of Iupiter in twelue of Mars in two of the Sunne Mercury and Venus in one yeere of the Moone in one month In the Clocke it selfe there be two tables on the right and left hand shewing the eclipses of the Sunne and Moone from the yeere 1573 to the yeere 1605. The third table in the midst is diuided into three parts In the first part the statuaes of Apollo and Diana shew the course of the yeere and the day thereof being carried about in one yeere The second part shewes the yeere of our Lord and of the world the Equinoctiall dayes the houres of each day the minutes of each houre Easter day and all other feasts and the Dominicall Letter The third part hath the Geographicall discription of all Germany and particularly of Strasburg and the names of the Inuentor and of all the worke-men In the middle frame of the Clocke is an Astrolobe shewing the signe in which each Planet is euery day and there be the statuaes of the seuen Planets vpon a round piece of iron lying flat so as euery day the statua of the Planet comes forth that rules the day the rest being hid within the frame till they come out by course at their day as the Sun vpon Sunday and so for all the weeke And there is a terrestriall globe and the quarter and halfe houre and the minuts are shewed There is also the skull of a dead man and two statuaes of two boyes whereof one turnes the houre-glasse when the Clocke hath strucken the other puts forward the rod in his hand at each stroke of the clocke Moreouer there be statuaes of the spring summer Autumne and winter and many obseruations of the Moone In the vpper part of the clocke are foure old mens stutuaes which strike the quarters of the houre the statua of death comming out each quarter to strike but being driuen backe by the statua of Christ with a speare in his hand for three quarters but in the fourth quarter that of Christ goeth backe and that of death strikes the houre with a bone in the hand and then the chimes sound On the top of the clocke is an Image of a Cock which twice in the day croweth alowd and beateth his wings Besides this clocke is decked with many rare pictures and being on the inside of the Church carrieth another frame to the outside of the wall wherein the houres of the Sunne the courses of the Moone the length of the day and such like things are set out with great Art Besides in the City there is a faire house in which citizens and strangers at publike meetings or otherwise vse to feast their inuited friends Neere the gate Rheinethore is the Armory vulgarly Zeighauss which aboundeth with Ordinance and all Munitions They haue a Theater for Comedies and a Tower to lay vp their treasure called penny Tower vulgarly Phennigthurne They say this City is called Argentina in latine of the word Argentum because the Romans of old laid vp their treasure here and Strassburg in Dutch of the word strass that is way and Burg that is a City as being built where many waies lead to many Prouinces I had almost omitted one remarkeable thing namely the faire House of the Cannons called Bruderhoff that is the Court of the Brethren I hired a coach for a Dollor my person from Strassburg to Heidelberg being sixteene miles The first day after dinner I went foure miles to Leichtenou through a plaine all compassed with Gardens and Orchards and paid six batzen for my supper The next morning we went foure miles to Milberk through a sandy
and barren plaine the Margraue of Turloch vnkle to the Margraue of Baden is Lord of this Village By the way thither we passed a Fort of the Margraues of Baden where tribute is paid for all Merchandises brought out of Sweitzerland and France and these frequent tributes are gathered by the Dutch Princes vpon pretext that they free the way from theeues to which purpose when the Fayres of Franckfort draw neere they send out certaine Reyters that is Horsemen vulgarly called Geleyte which conduct the Merchants and their goods out of the Frontiers The said Fort included the high way with Rampiers lest any should passe without paying tribute besides by the way we might see the City of Baden towards the South seated vpon a Mountaine After dinner we went three miles to the Village Graben through a sandy ground but somewhat lesse barren The Margraue of Turloch is Lord of this Village The third day in the morning wee went fiue miles to Heidelberg through sandy fields but fruitfull in corne all lying in a plaine as the rest of the way from Strassburg hither and neere Heidelberg we passed a great wood of Oakes full of great hea ds of red Deare which lay still by the way and would not stirre for our cries or feare of our Coach wheeles but seemed to know their priuiledge all hunting being forbidden vppon high penalties Heidelberg is compassed with high Mountaines on the South East and North sides but towards the West beyond the City and a long Suburbe being the sole Suburb in the Towne the Mountaines lie open This Suburbe is longer then the City and they both lie in great length from the East to the West and they both consist almost of one streete and are built in the plaine though compassed with Mountains On the South-east side there is a faire and pleasant market place and not farre thence a very high Mountaine called Konigstull that is Kingly seat vpon the middle ascent whereof is the Castle in which the Phaltz-graue of the Rheine holds his Court and vpon the top of this Mountaine are the ruines of an old Tower blowen vp with gun-powder From this Mountaine on the South side runne caues vnder the Earth to the Westerne part of the Mountaine of Goates vpon which Mountaine is a Tower called Trotz-keyser as if it were built in despight of Caesar and it is worth the seeing for the antiquity and building hauing no gate but being entered by the caue vnder the earth and being built with lime tempered not with water but wine incredibly durable at the time when the Emperour making warre against the Phaltz-graue besieged this City In the valley vnder this Mountaine of Goates towards the City is a pleasant walk of the sweetnes called the Phylosophicall way In the ditch parting the City and Suburbe is a place for the exercise of shooting with the Musket and Crosse-bow On the North side of the City the shallow and vnnauigable Riuer Neccar runneth in a plaine by the City betweene it and the Mountaine from the East to the West and in the same course hauing run more then a mile fals into the Rheine and though it be shallow yet sometimes it ouerflowes the Bridge of the City as it did in the yeere 1565. passing into the Towne On the North side you passe a bridge built of wood vpon arches of stone to a pleasant walke vpon the banke of the Riuer betweene the Mountaine and the water and from thence you goe vp to the holy Mountaine vulgarly Heiligberg and some say this City had his name of that Mountaine but others say it hath the name of the Dutch word Edelberg that is Noble Mountaine others of a Colony of Romans being Heathen will haue it at first called Heidenberg that is the Mountaine of the Heathen Vpou this Mountaine be the ruines of a Church of great antiquity first dedicated to Mercury and since made a Monastery and neere the same is a ruined Cloyster of Nunnes as commonly their nests were not farre distant and there is a passage vnder the Earth from one Cloyster to another This is a most high Mountaine and hath a thicke wood The City of Heydelberg by reason it is compassed with Mountaines hath a very vnhealthfull aire which maketh Funerals very frequent therein but the water is held very healthfull In the Innes they aske seuen batzen the meale but the Students haue their diet in Citizens or Professors houses for two guldens or one doller weekely and the fame of the Professors drew many Students at this time to this Vniuersity There is to my remembrance but one Church vsed for prayer aud preaching and there is a monument with this inscription in Latine ¶ Viglius Suicherius laid this to the memory of Rodulphus Agricola borne in Friestand he died in the yeere 1485 ihe 28 of October he liued 42 yeeres and two moneths There is another Epitaph to this Rodulphus Agricola made in verse by Hermolaus Bar barus Patriarke of Aquilegia Inuida clauserunt hee mar more fata Rodulphum Agricotam Frisij spemque decusque soli Scilicet hoc vno meruit Germania laudes Qutequid habet Latium Graecia quicquid habet Enuious Fates vnder this stone haue closde The Frisons ioy Rodulph Agricola By whom all praise on Germans is impofde That Italy or Greece had to this day While I liued here the rest of this summer I made a journey of pleasure to see the Cities lying vpon the West side of the Rheine and hiring a Horse after the wonted price at Heydelberg I rode two miles and a halfe to the Rheines side and then halfe a mile further to the City of Spire where the imperiall chamber is held in which Court the chiefe differences of the Empire are iudged and the Electors themselues or any absolute Princes vnder the Empire may bee called thither to triall of law The City is built in a plaine on the West side of Rheine and hath more antiquity then beauty or magnificence Here I paid eight batzen each meale From hence I rode one mile to the City of Wormz famous for many imperiall Parliaments held there of old and by the way we passed Frankendale a little City newly and very fairely built which place Casimire the Elector gaue vnto the Flemmings of late who then had built many faire bricke houses there and then compassed it with a wall and Casimire taking vpon him the tutorship of his Nephew against the will of the Lutherans who reiected him as a Caluinfst tooke some of these Flemmings to guard the Castle of Heidelberg The building of Wormz shewes great antiquity and wanteth not magnificence where I paid feuen Batzen a meale This territory on the West side of the Rheine is very fruitfull and yeeldeth the best Rhenish Wines so called of the Rheine by which they grow From hence againe I passed the Rheine and returned to Heydelberg Then I tooke my iourney to Franckfort Faire The first day I passed
at midnight through a heath of huge woods of Oake and came to Oldenburge early in the morning before the gates were open The Citie is built of meere clay but the Counts Castle is built in a round forme of stone with deepe ditches of water ouer which they passe by a drawing bridge and both the Castle and the City are strongly fortified Heere we had English beere the goodnesse whereof made my companions speake much in honour of England and of the Queene with much wonder that shee being a Virgine was so victorious against the Spaniards till in this discourse they all fell fast asleepe After breakfast the next morning wee hauing hired a waggon for eighteene groates passed foure miles in the territory of the said Count and one mile to Stickhausen in the territory of the Count of Emden who had a Castle there Then because we could get no waggon in this place wee went one mile further on foot which being very long and my selfe hauing some gold Guldens in my shooes which I could not remoue without suspicion the way was very irkesome to mee and we came to a countrey house but wee found good cheere each man paying for his supper seuen groates My selfe sitting last at the table by reason of my poore habit paied as much as the best and fedde on the worst but I had more minde of my bed then of my meat And one of my companions after supper hauing streight boots when I had taught him to pull off one by the helpe of a staffe for recompence of my counsell desired mee to pull off the other which being disguised as I was I could not well refuse The next morning we hired a waggon for eleuen stiuers and passed along mile to Leere a towne subiect to the Count of Emden who dwelt not far off at Dunort a strong Castle Our way through a Fen was so deepe as the waggon wheeles being pulled off we went good part of the way on foot Here we vnderstood that the Spanish Free-booters called by the English Malecontents lay at Aurick another castle of the said Count and being loded with booty had taken a barke by force to passe ouer the Emsz. These cut-throates vsed at this time to raunge out of the Spanish Garrisons vpon the Low-countries to spoile all passengers in these parts which they did with more confidence because the Count of Oldenburg being offended with the Citizens of Breme permitted these theeues to rob them who were also very malicious against those of Breme because they had lately taken thirty foure Free-booters and beheading them altogether had set vp their heads vpon stakes Besides the Count of Emden hauing beene lately driuen out of Emden by the Citizens in a tumult about religion did permit these Free-booters to lie in his Country and spoyle the Merchants of that City The chiefe Captaine of the Free-boaters then lying at Aurick was Hans Iacob a notable roge and very malicious to the English whom he vsed to spoyle of their very apparell to handle them cruelly mocking them with these English words I cannot tell and swearing that he would make them tell both of themselues and of their countrey men passing that way Some few dayes before hee had taken foure English wollen clothes and many Flemmish linnen clothes which they diuided by the length of a ditch in stead of a better measure and we were glad to heare that in this diuision they fell at variance for when this Hans I acob would haue stopt a part for the chiefe Captaine of the Garrison the rest cryed out in Dutch wir wollen dein mawger kopff lieber in zwey kleiben Stelen wir sur andern vnd hangen far vns selbs That is wee will rather cleaue thy leane pate in two Shall we steale for others and hang for our selues And they vsed many reproches against him and their chiefe Captaine saying in Dutch Finstu was bringt mirs hangstu aber habt dirs Die Iudem pfaffen hauptleinte vnd in hund ver dienen ihr kost mit thr mund That is findest thou ought bring it me hangest thou take that to thee The lewes Priests Captaines and dogs earne their liuing with their mouth but these cut-throates howsoeuer they had passed the Emsz yet meant presently to returne and had their spics in euery towne and village I returne to my iourney While we lay at Leere for a night a Doctor of the Ciuill Law seeing mee walke in the garden and thinking my seruile habit not fit for contemplation commanded mee to draw water for his horse giuing mee no reward presently but onely a nod yet after when he had drunke with his friends going out he said to me Knecht dore hastu zu drincken That is Sirra drinke you what is left After supper hauing expected a bed almost till midnight the maide at last told mee I must lie vpon the bench but after while I was washing my feet which the gold in my shooes had gauled she espying my silke stokings which I wore vnder my linnen ran to her mistresse and procured me a very good bed This effect pleased me well but I was afraide of the cause by which lest I should bee discouered I hasted away early next morning I paied heere for my supper and breakfast fifteene Stiuers and giuing the seruant one for his paines hee would haue restored it to mee seeming by my habit to haue more need thereof then himselfe All this night and the next day great store of raine fell and the winde was so tempestuous as we could not passe by water neither would my companions hire a waggon besides that the way was at this time so dirty as no waggon could passe it Notwithstanding since now onely two miles remained of my dangerous iourney and I thought no thiefe would come out in such raine I resolued to goe on foot with my companions to Emden being two miles but of vnspeakeable length and difficulty to passe In the high way wee had three passages one vpon the top of the Banke lying vpon an arme of the Sea or rather vpon the Riuer Emsz running into the Sea and in this passage the tempestious winde was like to beare vs ouer and blinded vs with driuing salt water into our eyes besides that wee went ouer the shooes in dirt The second passage was on the side of the banke from the water somewhat fairer then the other but in that most troublesome that wee were forced continually to leane vpon a staffe which euery one had in his hand lest being not staied with the staffe we should fall into the lower way which was intolerably dirty The lower way or third passage in the bottome of the banke furthest from the water was for the passage of waggons but the fields round about being ouerflowed in winter this passage was now 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In this way we passed a very long mile from the little City Leere to the Village Aldernsea from seuen of the clocke
for this cause they say the foundations of the houses being laid in water cost as much or more as the houses themselues The Riuer Amster of which and the word dam the City is named running from the South through three lakes entereth this city and passing through it fals into the Riuer Tay on the North side The City hath fiue gates which are shut at dinners and suppers though the danger of the warre be farre from them There be two Churches in which they haue two sermons each second day and foure on sunday The City lay in length from the North to the South but adding the plot of the new City it is of a round forme The streetes are narrow and the building of bricke with a low roofe shewed antiquity They haue two Almeshouses called Gasthausen that is Houses for strangers which were of old Monasteries One of these houses built round was a Cloyster for Nunnes wherein sixty beds at this time were made for poore weomen diseased and in another chamber thereof were fifty two beds made for the auxiliary Soulders of England being hurt or sicke and in the third roome were eighty one beds made for the hurt and sicke Souldiers of other Nations to which souldiers and sicke weomen they giue cleane sheetes a good diet and necessary clothes with great cleanlinesse and allow them Physitians Surgions to cure them and most of the Cities in these Prouinces haue like houses Here I lodged with an English-man and paid for dinner and supper twenty stiuers and for a guest inuited to supper ten stiuers and for three pints or chopines of Spanish wine twenty one stiuers From Amsterdam I went in a boat three miles to Harlam and paid for my passage foure stiuers we had not passed farre from Amsterdam when we came to a damme shutting out the flowing of the sea for the waters are salt thus farre though the ebbing and the flowing of the sea can hardly be discerned at Amsterdam for the depth of the Riuer Tay aud because Inland seas shew little ebbing or flowing Our boat was lifted ouer this damme by ropes and so let fall into the water on the other side for which the Mariners paid tribute There is another damme for greater Barkes and as by these dammes they let in waters to the Land at pleasure so they haue other dams at Torgay to let them out againe into the Sea when the Land hath too much water From hence we had the Sea-shore all the way on the North side not farre distant and on both sides of the water in which we passed were faire pastures parted with ditches of water The Riuer running from Amsterdam from the East to the North doth turne neere Harlam towards the South and diuideth the City which on all sides is compasied with Nauigable waters On the North side neere the gate Ians-port Don Frederick sonne to the Duke of Alun pitched his tent in a meadow when he besieged the City with the Spanish forces and much spoiled those parts beating downe Gentlemens faire houses dwelling frequently in that part with his Artillery playing into this street hauing the name of the Knights of Saint Iohn On the same side are two other gates Sayle-port and Cruyse-port and without them toward the sea being halfe a mile distant are very faire pastures but there is no riuer nor ditch that leads from the City to the sea For these Prouinces haue onely three passages to goe to sea one betweene Rotherodam and Bril a Fort of Zealand the second at Vlishing another Port of Zealand and the third from Amsterdam betweene two Ilands called rhe Fly and Shelling Wee comming from Amsterdam to Harlam entred the Citie by the gate Kleine holt Port on the East side where the very Almes-houses were beaten downe in the aforesaid siege of the Spaniards and the walles then beaten downe were not yet rebuilt On the South side is the fifth gate Grote-holt Port the street whereof is the fairest next that of the Knights of Saint Iohn On this side was a wall of stone but at this time they were building another very strong wall beyond it of earth In the New-street is the house for exercise of shooting and another old house for the same vse and one market-place sweetly shaded with trees and a second market-place of good length for the selling of Cattle Likewise on this side another part of the Spanish Army lay and destroyed a most pleasant Wood of which the gate and street haue the name And they report that the Spaniards taking the City vsed great cruelty to all but especially to the Garrison of the English Souldiers The Histories witnesse that three hundred were beheaded and more then two hundred drowned in the Lake called Harlam-mere On the West side the Citie is compassed with a wall of earth and there bee faire pastures betweeue the City and the Sea Among the Churches that which is called the Great is the fairest and our Ladies Church vulgarly called Vnser-fraw kirke is the next in beautie All the sea coast of Holland is a sandy downe in which are great store of conies This Citie makes great store of linnen clothes and hath some fiue hundred spinsters in it The water heere as most of these Cities standing and little or nothing mouing is subiect to stinking so as they are forced to fetch water for brewing by boats Here I paied for supper and my part of wine twenty stiuers and for my dinner without wine thirteene stiuers About a mile from the City is a very sweet Hil called Weligheberg whether the brides vse to walke and there take their leaues of the Virgins And in the mid way towards Almer is another Hil where the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to bee consecrated In the market-place ouer against the Pallace they shew the house of one Laurence Iohn vvhom they brag to bee the first inuentor of the Presse for Printing and they shew two bels of the brasse of Corinth which they say were brought from Pelusium a City in Affrick vpon the Nyle From Harlam wee hired a waggon for eight stiuers and came fiue miles in fiue houres space to Leyden our waggoner baiting his horses in the mid way but staying very little In the way we had on all sides faire pastures and passed by the Lake or Mere of Harlam lying towards the South and the sea bankes vvithin sight towards the North. The high wayes in these Prouinces seeme to be forced and made by Art being sandy and very dry though all the pastures on both sides bee compassed with frequent ditches of water At the gates of Leyden the men goe out of the vvaggon and onely vvomen may be carried into the City lest as I thinke the vvheeles of the loaded vvaggons should breake the bricke pauements of the streets Hence I returned presently to Amsterdam that I might receiue money sent me by exchange So I hired a vvaggon for eight stiuers my part from hence to Harlam and
townes and Villages we dined in a Village where we two by couenant paying for our coachman spent each of vs eigh grosh In the afternoone we passed the rest of the way one mile in the-Kings territory where we passed another damme of the riuer Vistula and three miles to Dantzke in the territory of the same City The King of Poland at this time was at the Port of Dantzke called Der Mind an English mile from the City expecting a wind to sayle into his Kingdome of Suecin and had with him his Queene and many Ladies and Courtiers Therefore desirous to see the King and the Queene with their traine I walked the next morning to this Port which is barred with a mountaine of sand so as the ships must vnlade in the roade before they can enter this Hauen neither is any village built there but onely one Inne in which the King 〈◊〉 with all his traine but beyond the water there is a strong Castle of a round sonne From hence after dinner I returned on foot to Dantzke The next day the King had a good wind but before this as those of the Romish religion are very superstitious the King and the Queen being of the house of Austria while sometimes they thought Munday sometimes Friday to be vnlucky daies had lost many faire winds The City of Dantzke is a very faire City and howsoeuer few ages past they had not any houses built of stone yet at this time many were built of free-stone and the rest of bricke with great beauty and magnificence being sixe or seuen roofes high And they had publike gardens for sports banquets and exercises which are very pleasant They haue a very faire Senate-house called Hoff that is the Court and the Citizens haue a strange fashion to put off their hats when they passe by it From the market place being round in which the King of Poland lodged some daies to the gate Hochethore being richly engraued lieth a very faire street called Longgasse and leads vp towards the Mountaines hanging ouer the City The famous Riuer Vistula doth not enter the City but passeth by it on the East-side and running towards the North fals into the Balticke sea But a little brook enters the City on the South-side and runnes through it towards the North. There is a faire water conduit vulgarly called Wasserkunst where by a mill the waters are drawne vp into a cesterne from whence they are carried by pipes into all the streetes and priuate houses besides that many Citizens haue their priuat wels The aforesaid brooke driues many mils among which one for the grinding of corne belongs to the Senate and it hath eighteene roomes and bringeth into the publike treasure euery houre a gold gulden and another without any helpe of hands saweth boords hauing an iron wheele which doth not onely driue the saw but hooketh in and turneth the boords to the saw The Garners for laying vp of corne called speiker are very faire and very many lying together in which the Citizens lay vp corne brought out of Poland and according to the wants of Europe carry it into many kingdomes and many times relieue fruitfull Prouinces in time of casual dearth The Queene of Poland came in a disguifed habit to see these garners and they haue a law that no man may carry fire or a lighted candle into them In the Church called Parkirk the resurrection of our Lord is painted with great art and the same againe is figured vnder a globe of glasse which kinde of painting is here in vse This City compassed with one wall containes three Cities gouerned by three Senates out of which one chiefe Senate is gathered to gouerne the whole City and these three Cities are called Furstat that is the fore City and Alistat that is the old City and Reichstat that is the Empires City The whole-City vnited lies in length from the South to the North and vpon the South-side is Furstat where the foresaid brooke diuiding the City doth enter and there is the aforesaid water conduit and without the wals a faire village or suburbe called Scotland in which there is a sanctuary which offenders may enter paying a gulden to the Bishop and none but Artificers for the most part shoomakers d well in this suburbe On this side and towards the East and North without the wals lie plaine fields which may be drowned at pleasure Vpon the East-side within the wals are the aforesaid garners for corne On the West-side without the wals great mountaines hang ouer the City and vpon them Stephen King of Poland incamped when he besieged the City which hath for defence very high wals on the same side Vpon the North-side in a corner lies Altstat betweene which and Furstat on the South-side lies the chiefe City Reichstat in the middest whereof is the aforesaid market place and a publike armory besides that great Ordinance is planted vpon the wals round about the City I said that from this market place the faire street Longgasse lieth to the gate Reichstat Betweene Reichstat and Altstat lie the foresaid two mils to grinde corn and saw boords both in my opinion very rare The City of Dantzke from the Roman superstition hath the same Saint for protector of their City which England hath namely Saint George whom they carry in their flags and banners And by the way let me remember that the state of Genea in Italy and the Iland of Chios vulgarly Zio in the sea neere Constantinople carry also the same Saint in their flagges At Dantzke I paid fiuegrosh a meale and being to passe into Poland where good meat is not in all places to be had I carried some prouision in the Coach and paid for two hens fiue grosh and for each measure of wine all kinds being of like price I paid ten grosh which measure is called a stoope and is somewhat bigger then the English guart The ninth of September after the old stile for the new stile is vsed in Poland I tooke The ninth of September after the old stile for the new stile is vsed in Poland I tooke my iourney to Crakaw and we being foure consorts hired a Coach for forty guldens The first day in the morning we passed fiue miles in fiue houres space through fruitfull hils of corne and onely one wood in that part of the Dukedome of Prussen which belongs vnto the King of Poland and came to the City Diersaw by which the riuer Vistula runneth After dinner we passed three miles through a wood and a Fen to the Village Zunzane inhabited by Hollanders who hauing dried the Fen made the fields much more fruitfull And from thence the same night hauing passed the riuer Vistula we went halfe a mile to Gratenis a City belonging to the Sborosky a family of Gentlemen The second day in the morning we went fiue miles through a wood and fruitfull fields of corne to a little Citty Colmersea where that day was a meeting of
the neighbour Gentlemen If you except Crakaw and the greater Cities the building in these parts is poore being of meere dirt in the Villages and of timber and clay in the better townes the houses being couered with straw or tiles of wood and the gentlemens houses be farre distant one from the other and of no beauty After dinner we went foure miles through fruitfull fields of corne to the City Toarn Hitherto we had giuen money to a Hollander one of our consorts for the paying of our expences and now by his account each of vs had spent three guldens and a halfe for he had prouided wine and such things which wee could not find in Villages to be carried in our Coach In this City we supped at an Ordinary and fiue of vs paid two dollers The riuer Vistula passeth by this City and for passing the same by a bridge wee paid for our Coach two grosh and then entring Massouia a Prouince of the Kingdome of Poland the third day in the morning we passed three miles through a wood of firre and one mile through corne fields and I haue omitted what I paid for my dinner In the afternoone wee passed three miles through a wild plaine and woods of oake to Britzoll where I likewise omitted my expences The fourth day in the morning we passed fiue miles through corne fields and woods of oake to Quodonab where I forgot my expence I formerly said that foure of vs had hired a Coach from Dantzke to Crakaw but the horses being but two were extreamely weary so as one of our company hauing a letter to take post horses if so I may call poore iades paying a grosh for each horse euery mile which Letter is vulgarly called Podwoda-briefe I was easily induced to leaue the Coach and beare him company and they telling vs that we had now passed more then halfe the way we agreed so as we two who left the Coach should pay each of vs six guldens for the same But the Hollander ouer-reached vs for we had not gone halfe the way and yet paid more then halfe the price which we should haue paid for the whole iourney This done we two drawne vpon a sledge passed two miles through corne fieldes that afternoone to a poore Village and paid for our passage two grosh The fifth day in the morning hiring a countrey Waggon and two horses at the same rate we passed two miles through fields of hops and sandy fields of corne and two woods of firre to Lonzchizcha and from thence fiue miles through woods and sandy fields to another village and paid for our sledge halfe a grosh each mile and for a horse for two miles sixe grosh and for three miles seuen grosh Here we inuited two Polackes to dinner yet both together spent onely foure grosh and a halfe for vs and them for we had ten egges for a grosh and all other victuals very cheape After dinner we hired two horses and a Countrey Waggon for eight grosh and passed foure miles through a stony way and sandy fields of corne to Peterkaw where the King hath a Castle and there we bought for our selues flesh bread and beere for our supper at a very cheape rate and giuing one grosh to the Hostesse for dressing our meat and for butter and fier shee was very well content with it The sixth day in the morning we passed fiue miles and in the afternoone two miles with the same Waggon for which wee paid seuen grosh and the same horses for which wee paid foureteene grosh And we passed through woods of high firre trees and some few fields of corne Our meat we bought our selues and as formerly our Hostesse dressed it and we fetched our beere without doores I remember wee paid three grosh for a goose two for a partridge two for a loyne of mutton and three for a pigge They sold a bushel of oates for two grosh which at Thoarn they sold for six grosh In these parts were great store of hop-yards After dinner we passed three miles throgh woody hils and corne fieldes and paied for our horses and a country waggon twelue grosh The seuenth day in the morning wee passed to a poore village foure miles through fruitfull hils of corne and many woods of firre and one of oake and vvee hired our country waggon with two horses for fourteene grosh Further wee went three miles to another village through hils of corne and a heath full of woods and paied for one horse and a waggon six grosh After dinner we passed to a village three miles through fruitfull hils of corne and by the way we might see a stately Gentlemans house and Gentlemen hawking in the fieldes and I remember not in all my long trauell euer to haue met hawkers or hunters in the fieldes but onely heere and once in Bohemia In this village the King hath a Castle The eight day in the morning we passed forward with the same horses and waggon which we had in the afternoone before and went two miles to Pnecho and wee paied for our horses and waggon fifteene grosh and gaue one to the waggoner Here the King hath another faire Castle From hence we passed two miles to a village through mountaines and corne fields and paied for two horses and a waggon foure grosh and gaue to the waggoner procuring our horses one grosh The same day we went three miles through little mountaines of corne to Crakaw and paied for two horses and a waggon six grosh Heere wee lodged with the Fleming consort of our iourney and had our diet after the Dutch manner and price Fortified Cities are very rare in Poland they placing their strength in their swords and horsemen rather then in walles Of all the Cities Crakaw is the chiefe where the King and his Councell reside It is seated in a plaine hauing mountaines on all sides but somewhat distant and it is compassed with two walles of stone and a dry ditch The building is very faire of free stone foure roofes hye but couered with tiles of wood for the most part It is of a round forme but somewhat longer from the East to the West In the midst of the City is a large market place quadrangular wherein is the Cathedrall Church and in the midst of the market place is the Senate house for the City about which are many shops of Merchants Vpon the East side of the City is the Kings Castle seated on a hill being faire and high built almost quadrangular but somewhat more long then broad and lying open on the South side without any building aboue the wall On the East side be the Chambersof the King and Queene with galleries adioyning On the North side is a faire gallery some forty fiue walking paces long where they vse to feast and dance On the West side are the chambers of the Queene Dowager from whence are priuate staires to the gate of the Castle by which the French King Henry the
third stole away secretly into France On the same side is a Chappell in the which the Kings are buried Vpon the East side of this City where this Castle is seated lie foure suburbes namely the Iewes little City and Cagmen which is diuided by the riuer Vistula from the other two called Stradam and the Stewes And Stradam belongs to the City but the rest haue their own Magistrates and priuiledges Towards the South and South-west lies the suburb Garbatz belonging to the City which of late was burnt in the ciuill war by the forces of Zamosky one of the Palatines and Chancellor of the Kingdome defending the Election of Sigismund now King against Maximilian of Austria chosen King by another party On the North side are the suburbs Biskop and Clepart which haue their owne Magistrates From hence being to take my iourney for Italy I bought a horse for eighteene Guldens and he that sold him according to the manner there vsed caused his bridle to be put on and so by the same deliuered the horse into my hands I paied fifteene grosh for a paire of shooes fifty for a paire of boots nine for spurs two guldens and a halfe for a saddle a gulden and a halfe for other furniture for my iourney nine grosh for stirrups eight grosh for foure horse shooes and eight grosh for each bushell of oates An Italian Gentleman being to returne into Italy bought likewise a horse and with this faire companion I tooke my iourney The first day towards euening we rode two miles through fruitfull hills of corne to a Country house where I paied for my supper two grosh for hay a grosh a halfe for a quarter of a bushel of oates two grosh and gaue to the Ostler halfe a grosh The second day in the morning we rode three miles through woods of firre to a village where I paied for my dinner two grosh for hay halfe a grosh for the third part of a bushell of oates a grosh and a halfe After dinner we rode one mile and a halfe through a great wood hauing the Mountaines of Hungary on our left hand and passing the riuer Vistula wee rode a mile through fenny fields and woods of firre and beech and came to a little Citie Opsenson where I paid for my supper eight grosh and for some three English pintes of wine fiue grosh for beere a grosh and a halfe for a third part of a bushell of oates nine grosh and for hay and straw a grosh and a halfe and this City was subiect to a Gentleman of Poland The third day in the morning wee rode three miles and a halfe through fields somewhat ouerflowed but fruitfull in corne and a wood of firre to Plesua subiect to the Barrons of Promnitz and seated in Silesia a Prouince of the Dutch Empire for after one miles riding we came out of Poland into the said Prouince which is subiect to the Emperour as likewise Morauia is by his right as hee is King of Bohemia but in Silesia they speake Dutch and Morauia hath his owne language little differing from that of Bohemia Also in our way we passed the riuer Vistula by boat and another arme thereof by a bridge Here the Barrons of Promnitz haue a Castle wherein they reside and here I paied for my dinner sixe grosh for beere one for hay and a third part of a bushel of oates two grosh and for a measure of wine somewhat bigger then the English quart ten grosh After dinner we rode two miles through fruitfull fields of corne to a little City subiect to the Emperour not by large subiection but proper right to all the Reuenewes of that Territory as he is King of Bohemia and I paied for supper three grosh for a third part of a bushell of oates with hay and straw fiue grosh The fourth day we rode two miles in the morning being now entred into Morauia where the miles are exceeding long as they be in Bohemia and we passed through most fruitful hils of corne and some woods and came to a little village seated a little beyond the City Freestat belonging to the Dukes of Tesch and here I paied for my dinner three grosh and as much for my horse-meat After dinner we rodetwo miles through hils and mountaines fruitfull of corne and some woods of oakes for Morauia is a pleasant Countrey very fruitfull and full of townes and villages and wee came to Ostrenam where I paied for my supper three grosh for beere two for my horse-meat foure and a halfe The fift day in the morning we rode three miles through fruitfull hils of corne to the village Boteuisa being very pleasant and full of orchards and subiect to a Gentleman of that Countrey By the way we passed on horse-backe two armes of the riuer Odera which hath his head three miles distant Heere wee dined with the Preacher or Minister of the Towne because the Hoste of the Inne was newly dead I paied for my dinner foure grosh for beere one grosh and for horse-meat two grosh Afterdinner we rode two miles through most fruitfull hils of corne to a pleasant village as all Morauia is pleasant and fertile and I paied for my supper fiue grosh and foure for my horse meat The sixth day in the morning we rode three miles through fruitful hils of corne hauing woody Mountaines on both hands and in the midst of the way passed by the City Granitz and came to Leipny The Cities in these parts are built with Arches halfe ouer the streets so as in the greatest raine a man may passe in the streets vnder them with a dry foot and such is the building of this little City where in some thirty families of Iewes did dwell Here I paied for my dinner foure grosh and for my horse-meat two grosh hitherto I meane groshes of Poland After dinner we rode a mile and a halfe in a paued way with corne fields on both hands to the City Speron where I paied for my supper fiue grosh I meane now and hereafter groshes of Morauia and for my horse-meat three grosh and here I paied for an Orange two grosh In this iourney through Poland and from Cracaw to this place we had heere the first bed hauing before lodged vpon benches in a warme stoue The seuenth day in the morning wee rode two very long miles through most fruitfull hils of corne rich pastures to a village hauing by the way passed by the Citie of Creitzon wherein many Iewes dwelt by very many villages and here I paied for my dinner three grosh for my horse-meat one grosh for a measure of wine like an English pint three creitzers After dinner we rode a mile and a halfe through most fruitfull hils of corne to a place called The Iewes village beyond the Episcopall City Vascon and I paied for my supper two grosh and for my horse-meat three grosh and a halfe The eight day in
the morning wee rode two miles going much out of our way and passed through most fruitfull hils of corne and pleasant vineyards to Nimsich and I paied for my dinner foure grosh for my horse-meat one grosh and a halfe After dinner we rode halfe a mile through hils planted with vines to Tracht and I paied for my supper six grosh for my horse-meat two and a halfe and for beere to wash my horses feet six creitzers The ninth day in the morning wee rode foure miles to a village through hils of corne and in the mid way were the confines of Morania and of Austria into which we now entred Here I paied for my dinner fourteene creitzers and three for my horse-meat The vintage being now at hand when wee came from our Innes in the morning wee vsed to carry bread with vs and so to breake our fast with bunches of grapes gathered by the way After dinner we rode two miles through hils and mountaines most fruitfull of corne and wine to Pasdorffe and I paied for my supper eighteene creitzers and nine for my horse-meat The tenth day in the morning we rode two miles and a halfe through hils of corne and many woods to a village not farre from Vlrich-kirke aud here I omitted my expence After dinner we rode two miles and a halfe through a very large plaine fruitfull of corne and pasture with many pleasant woods and compassed round about with mountaines and came to Vienna vulgarly called Wien Neere the City on the North side the riuer Danow runneth by from the East to the West three armes whereof close together with some ground betweene which many times is ouerflowed wee passed by three bridges whereof one hath twenty nine arches the other fifty seuen and the third fifteene each of those arches being some eighteene walking paces long Betweene the second bridge and the third next to the City is a pleasant groue and good part of the ground vnder the bridges is many times dry but when the riuer riseth it doth not only fill the all beds but ouerfloweth the fields on both sides At the gate of Wien each man paid for his horse two pochanels and when wee came to the Inne the Hoste sent our names written to the Magistrate Wien the metropolitan City of Austria is a famous Fort against the Turkes vpon the confines of Austria which if they should once gaine their horse-men might suddenly spoile the open Countries of Bohemia and Morauta and good part of Salesia The Citie is of a round forme and vpon the North side there is an ascent to it vpon a hil otherwise without the wals on all sides the ground is plaine except the West side where mountaines lie a good distance from the City and vpon that side the Sultan of the Turkes incamped vpon the hils neere the gallowes when in the time of the Emperour Rodulphua hee besieged the City or rather came to view it with purpose to besiege it the next summer The streets are narrow but the building is stately of free stone Two Towers of the Church are curiously ingrauen the like whereof is not in Germany except the Tower or steeple of Strashurg The common report is that two chiefe workemen had great emulation in building them and that one hauing finished his Tower found meanes to breake the necke of the other lest his workemanship should excel that he had done One of the Towers some three yeeres past was shaken with an earth-quake and indeed the houses of this City are many times shaken therewith and they haue a Prophecy of old that this City shall be destroied with an earth quake It is dangerous to walke the streetes in the night for the great number of disordered people which are easily found vpon any confines especially where such an army lieth neere as that of Hungary gouerned by no strict discipline Ernest as and Mathias Arch-dukes of Austria and brothers to the Emperour Rodulphus did at this time lie here both in one house and did eat at one table and in the time of their meales it was free for strangers and others to come into the roome I staied three daies a Wien to ease my weary horse and I paid each meale twenty foure creitzers for oates the day and night eighteene and in like sort for hay six creitzers From hence we tooke our iourney for Paduoa in Italy and the first day after dinner werode six miles in a plaine of vineyards pastures and corne fields with some woods to a village where I paid fifteene creitzers for my supper and eight for my horse The next day in the morning we rode foure miles through a wild plaine by the City Newstat and not farre thence came to Newkirke where I paid twenty foure creitzers for my dinner foure for my horse and twelue for a measure of wine like our English quart Henceforward we had no more beere but onely wine set on the table After dinner we rode three miles through woods and mountaines planted with vines and a rich valley of pasture and corne all in a stony soyle to Schwatzen I obserued that the horses we met laded with wine had their noses couered which they said was done lest they should be ouercome with the vapour thereof This City is seated betweene most high mountaines in a narrow streight hewen out of a Rocke and shut vp with a wall of stone Here I paid for my supper twenty creitzers and for drinking after supper vulgarly schlaffdruncke that is sleeping drinke sixe creitzers and for the fourth part of a bushell of oates nine creitzers which before we had for foure creitzers and a halfe and for hey and straw three creitzers The third day in the morning we rode two miles through wooddy mountaines the ascent of one of them being halfe a mile and through rich pastures to Mor thusly and I paid for my dinner eighteene creitzers and for my horse-meat fiue creitzers oates being deerer here then before This day neere Spitle we passed out of Austria into Styria After dinner we rode two miles through wooddy mountaines yeelding good pastures to a village where I paid for my supper twenty foure creitzers and twelue for my horse-meat The fourth day in the morning we rode foure miles through mountaines with pasture and woods and valleies of corne to the City Brucke where I paid for my dinner fifteene creitzers for my horse-meat fiue creitzers the third part of a bushell of oates being here sold for twenty foure creitzers After dinner we rode in like way two miles to the City Lowen and I paid for my supper fifteene creitzers for three little measures and a halfe of oates foureteene creitzers for stable three creitzers and foure for dregs of wine to wash my horses feet The fifth day in the morning we rode two miles in like way to a village where I paid nine creitzers for my dinner and foure for my horse meat After dinner we rode in the like way
for my doublet and hose eight lites to my laundresse for making a shirt a lire that is twenty sols for washing it two sols and for washing foure handkerchers one sol And this shall suffice for particular expences The City Paduoa was built by Antenor a Troian and the Heneti driuen out of their Countrey ioined themselues to these Troians These with ioint force droue out the Euganei from the fertile Euganean hils neere Paduoa where Hereules left them and these Heneti gaue to their posterity the name of Venetians to whom the Colonies of Tuscany ioined themselues then the French subdued all this Prouince till at last they subiected themselues to the Romans and were made Citizens of Rome The Roman Empire declining the Visigothes vnder Alaricus droue the chiefe Citizens of Paduoa into the lakes of Venice Then Attila King of the Hunnes spoiled Paduoa and the Longobards burnt it which being rebuilt and flourishing vnder the German Emperors Acciolinus vsurped the gouernement thereof in the yeere 1237. But Pope Alexander the fourth helped by the Venetians restored it to liberty in the yeere 1257. In the faction of the Guelphes Gibellines Paduoa then from that time hath bin subiect to many Princes of the Scaligers Cararrians til about the yeere 1402. the Venetians tooke the City which they held to the yeere 1509. when the French King Lewis made them yeeld to the Emperour but the Venetians after two moneths recouered it and to this day it is subiect to them who send a Magistrate called Podesta euery fifteene moneths to gouerne it Some say Paduoa was first called Antenoria as the Heneti gaue the name of Venice to the Countrey till after Antenors death the Heneti called it Paduoa of a City in their Countrey whence they were driuen Others say it hath the name from a Greeke word vpon the flying of Swannes others say it is so called of the riuer Po called in Latine Padus or of the territory lying beyond the Po the Riuer giuing name to the territory and that to the City Before it was destroied by Attila it was seated on the East-side of the Riuer Medoacus but after it was built on the other side in a fenny soyle where now the market place is but since it hath beene inlarged on both sides the water being without the outmost wals seuen miles compasse and of a triangular forme as it seemed to me The first angle is on the North-side where is the Monastery of the Hermites of Saint Augustine and the stately Pallace Areno in which the French King Henry the third was lodged when hee returned from Poland into France The second angle is towards the East where is the gate at which they take water to passe vpon the Riuer Brenta to Venice The third angle is towards the South where is the monastery Santo called of Saint Anthony of Lisbon and the monastery of Saint Iustina And these angles taken away the old City is round On the West-side vpon the wals is built the old Pallace of the old City Paduoa is seated in a sweet plain hauing no trees neere the City Of old the wall was triple and now it is double The inner wall is some three miles in compasse and is very high hauing a walke vpon it round about with pleasant shade of trees where Gentlemen vse to play at the balloone This wall compassed round with the Brent hath foureteene gates with as many bridges of stone The riuer Brent likewise compasseth the outward wall which is about seuen miles compasse and hath six stately gates but this wall is nothing so strong as the other The Riuer Athesis diuides the territory of Paduoa from that of Uerona and the riuer Po diuides it from that of Ferrara Two riuers of old called Medonci enter the City the greater at this day called Brenta falling from the Alpes with the right hand branch runneth to Paduoa and with the left hand branch to Rosta and diuiding againe into two branches one by the dirch Brentella is carried to Paduoa the greater takes the name Bachilio and neere to the wals of Paduoa receiues the waters of Brentella increased with a branch of Brenta These Riuers enter the City and with diuers channels driue many mils compasse the wals and not onely make the fields fertile but serue to carry all commodities abounding here from hence to Venice and to bring from thence such things as they want and besides doe cleanse all filth of the stables and priuies The aire at Paduoa is very healthfull and the building is with arches of stone hanging ouer the streets vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine but the streetes are thereby made narrow and in the middest are dirty There be fiue market places in the first the Gentlemen and Students meet and walke in the second herbes are sold in the third corne in the fourth wood and in the fifth straw The aforesaid monastery of Saint Anthony is inhabited by Franciscan Friars and is much fairer then any other religious house the Church whereof was of old dedicated to Iuno and after to the Virgin Mary and at last to Saint Anthony The pauement thereof is of marble and the building very stately hauing in the top seuen globes couered with lead and three high towers The Chappell wherein S t Anthony lies is all of marble round about it the miracles are engrauen which they attribute to this Saint at whose feast day they vse to present for great gifts the hallowed girdles of this S t which they tie about their loyns and attribute strange effects thereunto Here is a statua of marble erected to Peter Bembus and in the large yard there is a horse-mans statua of brasse which the Senate of Venice erected to Gatta Melata In the Church of Franciscan Minorites there is a statua erected to Roctha Benello a Physitian sitting in his chaire In the aforesaid monastery of Saint Iustina the order of Saint Benedict was first established and from thence dispersed into Italy and the Church thereof was of old dedicated to Concord and after being made the Bishops Church was endowed with great rents These Monkes haue a blacke habit and in the Church they shew the reliques of the Martyr Saint Iustina of Saint Prosdosimus a Greeke who is said to haue beene Saint Peters Disciple and to haue conuerted Paduoa and to haue baptised Saint Iustina when shee suffered Martyrdome and likewise of Saint Maximus both Bishops and protecting Saints of the City as also of Saint Luke the Euangelist brought by Vrius a Monke from Constantinople but the Venetians say the reliques of Saint Luke are with them Biondus writeth that here was a Church dedicated to Iupiter and the sepulcher of Titus Liuius In the first court yard of this Monastery the incredible miracles of Saint Benedict are painted In the second I found this Epitaph Adoleseens tametsi proper as Hoc te saxum rogat vt se aspicias Deinde quod scriptum est legas
length thereof euen from Genoa to the furthest limits of the Kingdome of Naples bordering vpon he sea towards the East On the same South-side are the schooles of the Vniuersity and the monastery of Saint Michaell and the rich stately monastery of Saint Dominicke in which is the sepulcher of the said Saint curiously engrauen and of white marble and vnder a rich skreene lies the body which they superstitiously worship and they shew the place where the Saint gaue vp his last breath Their refectory or place where the Monkes eat is faire and large and the Cellars of wine and their store thereof are so great as would better become the Temple of Bacchus then a Cloyster of Monkes It hath two foure-square Court yards with arched Cloysters to walke vnder and they be pleasantly planted round about with Cedars of which they especially esteeme one planted by the hands of that Saint who likewise with his owne hand did beautifie a well of water no lesse esteemed by them Their publike Library is much esteemed for many bookes of written hand wherein they brag to haue a Bible written by the hand of Esdras The building of this monastery is very stately and it hath large galleries as well below vnder the Arches as round about in the vpperroofe Here is a monument of Hans that is Iohn sonne to the Emperour Fredericke the second they haue a place giuen by priuiledge to the Dutch for buriall The building of the City is anticke and many houses seeme to haue beene built by the Lombards The foundations of the houses are of free stone and the rest for the most part of bricke built with arched Cloysters towards the street vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine The Pallaces of Gentlemen are built towards the street stately on the inside but with little shew on the outside and they all seeme to haue beene built of old The windowes are not glased which the Venetians brag to be proper to their City as a thing to be wondered at but they are couered with paper whereof part is oyled ouer Towards the West side of the City is a large market place two forked in which is a faire conduit of water with the Images of Neptune and diuers Goddesses powring water out of their mouthes and breasts and all made of mettall In this market place is the Senate-house vulgarly called Il palazo della signoria on the one side whereof are the Courts of iudgement on the other the lodgings of the Gouernour At the very entry is a statua of brasse erected to Pope Gregory the thirteenth a Citizen of Bologna which appeares by an inscription in the Cathedrall Church and within the Pallace is a statua of white stone erected to Pope Paul the third and another statua of a Gyant The staires of the Pallace are made winding and rising by little and little giue so easie an ascent as a horse may goe vp without difficulty the like staites be at Ferrara in the Dukes Pallace and at Venice in the steeple of Saint Marke and at Torge a City of Germany Within the Pallace is the statua of Iulius the second Bishop or rather the God Mars of Rome engrauen to his shoulders with aleane and longface Vpon the doore of the Pallace is written in golden letters that the Emperour Charles the fifth held his Court there when the Pope put the imperiall Crowne vpon his head in the Church of Saint Petronius which Church is of the old Lombard building and this Saint is the protecting Saint of the City Neere the stately Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter is a house called the mountame of piety where poore men may borrow money freely bringing pawnes to auoid the oppression of the lewes vsury Among the Lombard buildings there is an old Tower called d' Asinelli built of bricke with foure hundred seuenty two staires which they esteeme one of the highest in Europe From this Tower without the gates all the fields are full of Pallaces and Houses At the gate of Saint Francis is a pinacle with this inscription The Sepuicher of Accursius who wrote the glosse vpon the Law Sonne to Francis H us In the territory of this City is a medicinall water found in the yeere 1375. very famous throughout all Italy of which is prouerbially said Chibene l' Acqua della Porretta O che lo spezza o che lo netta that is He that drinkes the water of Porretta either it bursts him or els it cleanseth him The strangers students here call the stately Pallace of Cardinall Caup the sinnes of the Dutch as built by the Fines imposed on them We staid in this City two daies and being three consorts hired a chamber each man for foure bolinei the day the Hostesse giuing vs linnen and dressing our meat and we paid for an Eele by the pound fiue bolinei for they sell fresh water fish by the pound for a pike the pound foure bolinei for three apples two quatrines for a pound of raisons foure bolinei for a pound of small nuts foure bolinei for an ingestar of wine a measure somewhat bigger then the English pint foure bolinei for a wax candle six bolinei It was now the time of Lent and so we were forced to eat onely fish as the Italians did In the territory of Bologna there is a place almost an Iland called Forcelli which was an Iland of old and Historians witnesse that the Triumuiri Augustus Antonius and Lepidus here diuided the world betweene them From Bologna the right way for Rome is directly to Florence which way I neuer passed disposing as I thought my iourney more commodiously yet for the direction of other passengers it will not be amisse to set downe the way From Bologna to Pianore are eight miles to Lograno sixe to Scaricalasino fiue to Caurez three to Fiorenzuola twelue to Scarperia ten to the bridge Saint Piero two and to Fiorenza or Florente two miles At Bologna we chanced to light vpon post horses being to returne twenty miles to Imola and each of vs paid fiue poli for his horse By the way towards the South were pleasant hils towards the foot of the Apennine mountaines On the left hand towards the North were fields manured after the Lombard fashion before described and we passed by the Castle Saint Petro the Italians call the walled Townes which haue no Bishops seat by the name of Castles When we entered the gates of Imola according to the custome we deliuered our swords to a boy who was to carry them to our Host that he might keepe them till we went out of the Towne and here each of vs paied two reali for our supper and halfe a reale for our bed The next morning we rode ten miles to the City Faenza through a sandy way and a barren soyle yeelding some few vines growing vpon trees and each man paid for his horse eight poli From hence our right way to Ancona had beene to Forli Cesena and
Rimini but our desire to see the old famous City of Rauenna made vs goe out of the way twenty miles to the said City through a dirty way and fruitfull fields of corne and each of vs paid seuen poli for his horse Rauenna is a most ancient City whose wals the Emperour Tiberius either built or repaired Here of old was the harbour for the nauie of Rome Here the Emperour of the East after the Westerne Empire was extinguished made the seat of his Exarch After by the conspiring of the Popes and the French Kings Pipin and Charles the Great all the Cities of this Exarchate fell to the Popes share Yet others write that the French King onely added Tuseany to the Patrimony of Saint Peter and it is most certaine that these Cities for long time did not acknowledge the Pope for their Lord till at last the Popes in like sort conspiring with the French Kings Lewis the twelfth and Charles the eight had their aide to subdue these Cities and then Pope Iulius the second by terrour of his excommunications extorted Rauenna and other Cities from the Venetians and casting out the Lords of other Cities the Popes from that time being very skilfull to fish in troubled waters haue gotten possession of all the territories from the confines of the State of Venice to Ferraria Bologna and along the Coast of the Adriaticke sea to Ancona It is said that Rauenna stands not now in his old place for at this time it is some two miles distant from the Sea but the soyle thereof is most fruitfull in corne and vnfit to yeeld wine and it is rich in pastures The houses are built of bricke and flint stone aud are so old as they seeme ready to fall This City hauing been often taken by enemies hath lost all the ornaments which it had from so many Exarches and Kings of Lombardy and from the Bishops thereof who were so powerfull as they stroue long time for primacy with the Bishops of Rome On the North-side of the City lies the sea but distant from the same and without the wals is a wood of Pine-trees and not farre thence lie the ruines of a very old and most faire Church Saint Mary the Round whose roofe was admirable being of one stone and in the same Church was the rich sepulcher of the Lombard King Theodoricus which the souldiers pulled downe with the Church to get the mettals thereof On the East-side the sea lies some two Italian miles distant where is the Hauen for ships so much spoken of in the Roman Histories where the nauy of Rome did winter yet is it now neither conuenient nor secure for ships neither indeed can any but very small boates come vp to the Towne On the South-side without the golden gate built by the Emperour Claudius lie the ruines of a stately Pallace built by the same King Theodoricus and likewise of the City Caesaria In a Chappell of the Cathedrall Church is a most rich Font and they report that many Kingly monuments were of old in this Church In the market place lies a vessell of Porphry a Kingly monument which the Citizens in the yeere 1564. brought from the foresaid sepulcher of King Theodoricus in the ruined Church of Saint Mary neere the gate on the North-side In the monastery of Saint Francis is the sepulcher of the Poet Dante 's with these verses in Latin Exigua tumuli Dante 's hic sorte iacebas Squallenti nullis cognite penè situ At nune marmoreo subnix us conder is Area Omnibus cultu splendidiore nites Nimiram Bembus Musis incensus Hetruscis Hoc tibi quem inpri nis hae coluere dedit In a poore Tombe Dante 's thou didst lie here The place obscure made thee almost vnknowne But now a marble chest thy bones doth beare And thou appearest fresh as flower new blowne Bembus with Tuseane Muses rauished Gaue this to thee whom they most cherished In the yeere 1483. the sixth of the Kalends of Iune Bernar Bembus the Praetor laid this at his owne charge The strength merit and crowne of the Friars minorite couents S. V. F. and these verses were added in Latin Iura Monarchtae superos Phlegetonta lacusque Lustrando cecini voluerunt fata quousque Sed quia pars cessit melioribus hospita castris Actoremque suum petijt faelicior Astris Hic claudor Dante 's patrus extorris ab oris Quem genuit parui Fiorentia Mater Amoris The Monarchies Gods Lakes and Phlegeton I searcht and sung while my Fates did permit But since my better part to heauen is gone And with his Maker mongst the starres doth sit I Dante 's a poore banishd man lie here Whom Florence Mother of sweet Loue did beare In the Church of Saint Vitalis the pauement is of marble and the wals all couered with precious stones of many kinds but vnpolished as they were taken out of the mines shew great antiquity and magnificence and doe not a little delight the beholder Also there be certaine Images grauen in some stones I know not whether by nature or strange art which are to be admired Among which I remember one stone had the picture of a Turke in all the apparell they weare another the Image of a Monke in his habit another of a Priest with his bald head and two other the one most like the foot the other the leg of a man There is an Altar of Alablaster and the Church is of a round forme whose roofe is painted A la Mosaica like engrauing of which kind of painting rare and much esteemed in Italy I haue spoken before in the description of Venice In this Church is a fountaine of water which by vertue giuen it from this Saint as they say being thrice drunke off giues remedy to the head-ach Another Church of Saint Geruasiue is so ioined to this of Saint Vitalis as it seemed to mee but a Chappell thereof and in this Church also is the Saint buried of whom it hath the name and there be also the sepulchers of Placidiae sister to the Emperour Honorius and of her sonnes and daughters and of her nurse with her husband Here wee paid each man three poli for his supper From Rauenna we rode thirtie fiue miles to the old Citie Rimini namely ten to Sauio fiue to Ceruia fiue to Cesnadigo and fifteene to Rimini through wild fenny fields and a great Wood of Pine-trees and by the sandie shoare of the sea betweene which and the Apenine Mountaines diuiding Italy by the length the Valley was so narrow as we continually did see the snowy toppes of those Mountaines towards the South and for the most part did see together with them the Adriatique sea towards the North. In the foresaid Castle Cesnadigo the Post-master would haue forced vs to take new post-horses if he that let our horses to vs had not pleased him by the paiment of some money for the post-horses are knowne by a list of furre they weare in their
besides he vsed it to bring the Citizens in absolute subiection The streetes are narrow and the wayes ill paued with Flint The Hauen is of a triangular forme and is now very pleasant as of old it was of great fame for a most secure Port yet it seemed not to me capable of many or great ships Perhaps it was of old fit to receiue the Roman Nauie of Gallies but since they haue neglected to preserue it Traiane the Emperour repaired this Hauen and adorned it with a stately triumphall Arke of marble which remaines to this day About this Hauen there is pleasant walking and the place where the Marchants meete called la Loggia lying vpon the sea is as sweete an open roome as euer I saw but narrow and nothing answerable for stately building to the Exchange of London It is beautified with sweete pictures among which one of an Angell which lookes right vpon you on which side soeuer you behold it is much esteemed They haue a prouerb one Peter in Rome one Tower in Cremona and one Hauen in Ancona for the excellency of them Neere the gate of the Citie to my remembrance on the East-side is a very sweete Fountaine powring water out of many heads of stone At Ancona according to the custome of passengers we agreed with a Vetturine or letter of horses that each of vs paying him fiftie fiue Poli hee should finde vs horses and horse meate and our owne diet to Rome and to this end his seruant followed vs on foote after the fashion of the Italians who ride slowly and these seruants are called Vetturini or Vetturals Now we were to crosse the bredth of Italy frō the Adriatique to the Tyrrhene Sea The first day in the Morning we rode fifteene miles to a little Citie called Madonna di Loretto through fruitfull Mountaines and passing an high Promontary By the way was an Altar with this inscription in Latin O passenger goe on merily c. Gregorie the thirteenth hath well paued the rest of the way The like inscription is in the ascent of the Mountaine vpon which the little Citie Loreto stands for this way in a fruitfull Countrey of corne and a dirty soile was paued at the charge of the said Pope A certaine chamber hath giuen beginning to this Citie and the Church thereof then which nothing is esteemed more holy among the Papists and because many gifts of great price vse to be giuen by vow to our Lady of this Church the City is well fortified against Pirats who did once spoile the same and were like againe to be inuited by the hope of rich spoiles to the like attempt if the Towne lay vnfortified It is of little circuit and lieth in length from East to the West so narrow as it hath almost but one streete in the bredth and all the houses of this streete are Innes or Shops of them that sell Beades to number prayers On the East side after a steepe descent of a Mountaine lies a valley of two miles and beyond that the sea On the North side to wards Ancons though the sea be very farre distant yet from this Citie seated vpon a high Mountaine it may easily be seene Vpon the dores of this Church famous for mens superstitious worship these verses are written Illotus tlmeat quicunque intrara Sacellum In terris nullum sanctius orbis habet Enter not here vn washt of any spot For a more holy Church the world hath not At the Church dore is a statua of brasse erected to Pope Gregorie the thirteenth As I walked about the Church behold in a darke Chappell a Priest by his Exorcismes casting a diuell out of a poore woman Good Lord what fencing and truly coniuring words he vsed How much more skilfull was he in the diuels names then any ambitious Roman euer was in the names of his Citizens whom he courted for their voices If he had eaten a bushell of salt in hell If he had been an inhabitant thereof surely this Art could neuer haue been more familiar to him He often spake to the ignorant woman in the Latin tongue but nothing lesse then in Tullies phrase and at last the poore wretch either hired to deceiue the people or if that be more probable drawne by familiar practice with the Priest or at least affrighted with his strange language and cries confessed her selfe dispossessed by his exorcisme In the body of the Church a Table of written hand in the Greeke Latin and many other tongues was fastened to a Piller setting downe at large the wonderfull historie of the Chamber in the midst of the Church which I confesse was lesse curiously obserued by me abhorring from that superstition hastening from thence as much as I might yet giue me leaue to set down the sum thereof out of the itinerary of Villamont a French Gentleman This Chamber or Chappell saith he is the very house in which the Queene Virgin of Nazaret was borne brought vp and saluted by the Angell foretelling her of Christs birth and in which Christ was conceiued and in which the Virgin dwelt after Christs ascention accompanied with the holy Apostles especially with Saint Iohn by Christs commaund which the Apostles after the Virgins death for the great mysteries done here turned into a Chappell consecrated to the sacrificing of Christ and dedicated the same and with their owne hands made the great Crosse of wood now set in the window of the Chappell and in which Saint Luke made with his hand the picture and Image now set aboue it Let mee adde This Chappell from a House became a Chamber and of a Chamber was made a Chappell and it is built of bricke and is thirtie foote long twelue and a halfe broad In the chimney as Villamont saith as yet remaine the holy ashes which no man dare take away and the Altar also vpon which the Masse is sung was made by the Apostles hand There is a roome into which you first enter which is diuided from the Chappel by an iron grate for no man enters the chappell without leaue but must say his prayers in the outter roome yet leaue is giuen to any that aske it Villamont addeth that he found by diligent search that this Chappell was much reuerenced in the primitiue Church but the holy land being subdued by Sarasens then by Turkes he faith it hapned in the yeere 1291. that this house was taken vp from the foundations by Angels who in the night miraculously carried it to the Sea shoare of Sclauonia where it was made knowne to the people by the shining of the Virgines Image and then by a vision of a religious man the Virgine her selfe made knowne the History to him He addeth the Virgins Oration wherein shee giues her selfe many titles which in later ages were first inuented and shee doth so extoll her owne praises with her owne mouth as hee that reades the old song of the blessed Virgin would cry out with the Latine Poet onely
of birds Nightingales flying loose in the groues and the most pleasant prospect In this Castle Marino we made some stay to expect some passengers which were longer detained at Rome by their businesse And the Pope in this place giues sixty Horsemen Musqueters to accompany the Carrier vulgarly called Il Procaccia and to defend him from the spoyling of banished men vulgarly called Banditi And for this cause all passengers goe in this Carriers company neither dare any passe alone For these banished men lurking vpon the confines of the Popes State and the Kingdome of Naples many times make excursions as farre as these mountaines to doe robberies and the weeke last past they had killed many passengers and had robbed the Carrier who doth not onely beare letters but leades many Mules laded with goods The chiefe of these banished men was the Nephew so they call Church-mens bastards of the Cardinall Caietano who hauing eight thousand crownes yeerely reut in these parts was banished by the Pope and he vnderstanding that a Roman Gentleman passed with that Carrier who had great friends about the Pope and hoping to make his peace by taking him prisoner did for that cause assaile that Carrier and his guard till hearing that the Gentleman while they fought had escaped to the next City he withdrew himselfe his men into the mountainrs This danger from banished men makes the iourney to Naples very trouble some and it is not safe nor lawful for any man to leaue the company of this Carrier So as the passengers rise before day and take horse and so sitting all the day yet ride not abouc twenty miles for the slow pace of the mules and at noone they haue no rest onely when they haue the Inne in sight so as there is no danger of theeues they are permitted to gallop before that they may eat a morsell or rather deuoure it for as soone as the mules are past they must to horse againe euery man not onely making hast for his owne safety but the souldiers forcing them to be gone who are more slow then the rest To conclude the mules going a very slow pace it was very irkesome to the passengers to rise before day and to follow them step by step Hauing dined at Marino and our full company being come we together with our guard of horse-men rode eight miles to Velitri through wooddy mountaines infamous for the robberies of banished men and vpon our right hand towards the South and towards the Tyrrhene sea was a Lake vulgarly called Lago Nympao which the old Romans delighted with doing difficult things vsed to fill with sea water and therein to make nauall fights One wood by which we passed was more dangerous then the rest where the Pope maintaines forty foot to assist the Guard of horse till they haue passed the same The discent of the last mountaine neere Velitri was two miles long yet pleasant by reason of the multitude of Vines growing vpon short stakes which vse to yeeld the richest wine Velitri is by writers called Belitre an old City of the Volsci and famous for the birth of the Emperour Augustus and the dwelling of the Octauian Family The second day in the morning we rode thirteene or foureteene miles to Sermoneta and in the midst of the way our guard of horseleft vs and their trumpet asked of euery man a gift in curtesie which we gladly gaue and there new horsemen meeting vs tooke vpon them our guard After dinner we rode eight miles to a little towne La casa nnoua and fiue miles to an old City which Liuy callesh Priuernum yet other Co'mographers write that the ruines thereof lie in a plaine two miles off whereas this is seated vpon a mountaine yet growing to a City by the decay of the former is called Priuernum and vulgarly Piperno We passed through wooddy mountaines full of Oliue trees on the right hand and a fruitfull plaine of corne and many Orchards of Orange trees and like fruits on the left hand And among the mountaines on the right hand the most remote was called Circello of the famous Witch Circe and it is a Promontory hanging ouer the sea where at this day they shew the cup in which Vlisses drunke the inchanted potion and vnder the hollow caues of this mountaine the Turkish Pirates lurke in the summer time and rob the Christians The last fiue miles of our iourney all the passengers and souldiers were put before the Carrier and his Mules for then we turned out of the plaine towards mountaines on the left hand where as they said the banished men had the weeke before assailed the Carrier After we had dined the horse-men left vs and certaine foot did after guide vs from one City to another The third day in the morning we had a guard of horse-men and rode twelue miles to Terracina an old City so called in the time of the Emperour Tiberius and we passed through a fertile plaine of corne on the right hand towards the Sea and stony hils full of Oliue trees on the left hand towards the Land and many vineyards and ruines of houses neere the City After we had this morning rode two miles we passed by an old Monastery called la Badia della fossa nuoua where they haue a monument of Saint Thomas Aquinas but his body was carried to the City Tolouse in France when the French-men had the Kingdome of Naples And after we had rode ten miles our guard of horse left vs and certaine foot meeting vs conducted vs other 2 miles In this way the waters in many places at the foot of the hils did stinke of brimstone but infinite Laurel trees on all sides refreshed our smel Terracina in the flourishing time of Rome was called Anxur and it is seated vpon a mountaine as most of the foresaid Cities are and it lieth vpon the sea which the land imbraceth like a halfe Moone this Citie lying vpon one horne thereof and the Citie Caieta vpon the other of which Citie the Cardinall had name who did oppose himselfe to Luther The flouds of the sea make great noise with striking vpon hollow caues of Rocks A souldier came out of the Tower of Torracina and demaunded of euery man fiue baocci which we paid though it were onely due from them who had portmanteaues with locks Neere this City we did see the ruines of a stately Theater After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Fondi through a stony way being part of the old way of Appius and vpon the right hand we had a plaine towards the sea and vpon the left hand rockey Mountaines towards the land where wee passed by the Citie Monticello At the mid-way the Popes guard hauing left vs we came to two old ruined walles shutting vp the way and lying from the Mountaine to the sea This place called Sportelle deuides the territories of the Pope and the King of Naples and is kept by a Garison of Spaniards I remember
the Creeke of Pozzoli of this Citie Suetonius writes that the Emperour Tiberius consulting about his successor and inclining more to his true Nephew Thrasyllus the Mathematitian should answere that Catus should no more raigne then he should ride ouer the Creeke of Baie Wherefore Caius being Emperour and hearing of this diuination not as others say in emulation of Xerxes who made a Bridge ouer Hellespont nor to the end that with the fame of this great worke he might terrifie the rebellious Germans and Britans did build a Bridge ouer this creeke of the sea being about three miles long that hee might thereupon passe from Baie to Pozzoli Of this Bridge thirteene piles of bricke may bee seene neere the shore at Pozzoli and as many on the other side neere the shore of Baie and some of these piles haue yet arches vpon them but ready to fall And from these piles the Inner part of the bridge was founded vpon two rankes of shippes fastened with ancors and couered ouer with a bancke of earth to make the passage like the way of Appius The rest Suetonius addeth in these or the like words Ouer this bridge he went to and fro for two daies the first day vpon a trapped horse hauing his head adorned with a Crowne of Oake leaues and bearing an Hatchet a Sword and a Garland and a robe of cloth of Gold The next day in a Coch-mans habit driuing a Coch drawne by foure famous horses carrying before him Darius a childe one of the pledges giuen by the Parthians his Pretorian Souldiers accompanying him and his friends following him in a Coach c. He that desires to comprehēd the magnificence of this work must first know that the Mediterranean sea is very calme hauing little or no ebbing or flowing and that this Creeke is yet more calme and that this bridge was built in the furthest part of the Creeke very neere the land These things considered if my iudgement faile not there is greater cause of wonder at the Bridge built by the Duke of Parma besieging Antwerp being in like sort built vpon barkes fastened one to the other and also at the Bridge of London bearing a great ebbing and flowing of the sea and built of free stone vpon so firme a foundation as it beareth many great and faire houses vpon it but whatsoeuer the magnificence were surely the vanitie of this worke was great to spend so much vpon this Bridge the way by land being not a mile longer then by the Bridge Giue me leaue to digresse so farre as to remember that the Territorie of Falernum is not farre from Pozzols the wine whereof called Falernum is so much praised by Horace After dinner we went from Pozzoii to view the Antiquities lying vpon this Creeke and first we came to the Labyrinth a building vnder ground which hath the name of the multitude of roomes with such passages to and fro as a man may loose himselfe in them and here wee had not onely neede of the thread of Ariadne but of light also to conduct vs. Leander thinks that all this building was to keepe fresh water Then we came to the Amphitheater being of an Ouall forme the inner part whereof is 172 foot long and 88 broad the building whereof is little ruined And Suetonius writes that this was built for the Plaies of Vulcan Not farre thence neere the shoare is a fountaine of cleare and sweete water flowing plentifully out of the sea so that for a great distance we might with our eies distinguish the same from the sea water which Leander thinks to haue been brought by pipes vnder the earth to these houses of the old Romans Neere this place are the ruines of many buildings now called Belgeimano which the Emperour Tiberius is said to haue built when hereturned with triumph from the German warre Betweene the rocks that compasse this sea is the way Attellane which leades those that passe to Rome to the way of Appins and there be many baths for most of the waters are medicinall Neere the Lake of Auernus vpō the side towards Pozzoli lies a Mountaine q which lately broke out of the earth where of old were the bathes of Tripergola whence the dwellings in this part and this place are called Tripergola and here of old were many large and stately buildings but by reason of many Earthquakes and roberies of Pirats the houses were long since forsaken and at last in the yeere 1538 were swallowed vp by the earth For in that yeere vpon Michaelmas day was a terrible Earthquake in this place which brake out with fire in great flames casting vp stones with a great tempest of winde and darkenesse of the aire so as the people thought the worlds end was come And at this time the ashes of this fire were carried by the winde to places twentie miles distant At last after seuen daies this confusion ceased and then the aforesaid Mountaine breaking out of the bowels of the earth was first seene being three miles high and at the bottom foure miles compasse Vpon the toppe of this Mountaine is a hole some fistie paces broad which towards the bottom growes more and more narrow where it seemeth round and of little compasse hauing a cleare water yet giuing a stink of brimstone and this hole is like a Theater made by art In the foresaid fearefull Earthquake caused by the breaking out of the vapours inclosed vnder the hollow earth many famous bathes were lost and no more seene Not farre hence is the Mountaine of Christ so called because they say that Christ with the squadrons of the Fathers passed this way when hee ascended from Hell But the French Gentleman Villamont worthily iudgeth this to be fabulous and likewise the miracle of the Crucifex here bearing the markes of Christ yet doth he giue too much credit to the miracles of Loreto Vpon the shore of the creek of r Baie lies the Lake as Virgil saith of the foule stinking Auernus This Lake is a naturall Hauen but is not vsed because the Hauen of Lucrinus is betweene it and the sea It is compassed with high hils on all sides but onely where the Sea enters on the South-side at a passage fifty paces broad and the forme of it is round and the hils that compasse it now seeme pleasant but of old were all couered with a thicke wood which shutting vp the aire and by the shadow drawing many birds to it was thought to be the cause that these birds stifled with the smell of brimstone fell suddenly dead till the Emperour Augustus caused the wood to be destroied And of the birds thus killed the Lake was called Auernus For this smell of brimstone and the shadow of the foresaid wood darkening the Lake and the blacke colour of the water and because the sunne is shut out from the Lake by the hils this Lake was feined by the Poets to be one of the Lakes of hell Leander writes of a fountaine here the water
the Iland of Tyber this compasse may truly be called Rome as at this day it is inhabited for the rest lies wilde hauing only ruines and some scattered Churches and houses and towards the South fieldes of corne within the walles They say that Romulus did onely build vpon three Mountaines the Palatine the Capitoline and the Celian yet others adde the Esquiline and that he compassed them with walles and that he built the Gate Carmentalis so called of the mother of Euander which lies vnder the Capitoll vpon the right hand betweene the rock Tarpeius and the Riuer Tiber and was also called the cursed Gate of the 300 Fabij which went out of the same to fight and were all killed in one day And that he built the Roman Gate lying neere the Mount Pallatine towards the Amphitheater called Obelisco and the Gate Pandana so called because it was alwaies open After seuen Mountaines being inclosed Rome had eight Gates and after thirtie foure as Liuy writes and at last thirtie seuen Gates At this day the first Gate is called IIII delpopolo lying on the East-side of Tiber towards the North which of the Riuer was of old called Flumentana and of the way of Flaminius to which it did leade was called Flaminia The second Gate is called V Pinciana of a Senator of that name and of old was called Collatina of a Pallace adioyning and it is a mile distant from the former Gate The third Gate is called VI la Salarta of salt brought in that way and was of old called Quirinalis of the Temple or the Mountaine adioyning of the same name and also called Agona of a Mountaine or as hauing no corner and also called Collina of a Hill and it is lesse then a mile distant from the last named Gate The fourth Gate is called VII la Pia of Pope Pius the fourth who repaired it and the way without it and it is more then halfe a mile distant from the last named Gate At this day it is many times called Saint Agnese of a Church lying neere it And it was of old called Viminalis of Oseyres growing there and also called Figulensis of Potters dwelling there and also called of old Numentina of a Castle I will omit the Gate of old called Inter Aggeres because almost no ruines therof remaine at this day The fifth Gate is called VIII di S. Lorenzo of the Church neere it It was of old called Tiburtina though others think that Gate was neerer to Tyber on this side and Esquilina of a place neere it and Taurina of a bulles head which still is grauen vpon it and it is a mile and a halfe distant from the last named Gate The sixth Gate is called IX Maggiore and was of old called Neuia and Labicana and Praenestina The seuenth is called X dt S. Giouanni and it was of old called Caelemontana of a Mountaine and Quercotulana of an Oake and Settimia and Asinaria The eighth is called XI Latina of Latium to which it leades and was of old called Firentina and is more then a mile distant from the seuenth Gate The ninth from the eighth more then halfe a mile distant is called XII di S. Sebastiano of the Church to which it leades and was of old called Capena of the Citie or Riuer of that name and also Camena of a Church and Appia of the way which Appius the Censor paued and Fontinale of the Fountaines and some write it was called Trionfale for part of the Triumphes that did enter there And the brother of the Horatij escaping in the fight against the brothers Curiatij did returne at this Gate without the same is the Sepulcher of Scipio the Africane whereof I spake describing Linternum neere Naples where he would be buried farre from his vngratefull Countrey The tenth Gate is called XIII di S. Paolo of the Church whither it leades and was of old called Trigemina of the 3 Horatij going out there and called Ostiensis as leading to Ostia where Tyber runs into the Sea and it is a mile from the 〈◊〉 Gate and as much distant from the Riuer Tyber The eleuenth Gate lies on the West side of Tyber in that part of the Citie which I said is called II Trasteuere and is distant from Tyber halfe a quarter of a mile being called XIIII di ripa and was of old called Portuensis as leading to the Hauen of Rome made by the Emperour Claudius The twelfth Gate almost a mile distant from the former is called XV di S. Pancratio and of old was called Aurelia of Aurelius the Emperor or of the way Aurelia and of others called Pancratiana and it lieth neere the Mountaine Ianiculo The thirteenth Gate halfe a mile distant from the former is called XVI Settimiana of the Emperour Settimius whose name is engrauen vpon it it was repaired by Pope Alexander the sixth Some think this Gate was called Fontinale others Festinale and it is the last Gate in Trasieuere The fourteenth Gate is called XVII di S. Spirito and it is the first in that part of the Citie called I Borgo The fifteenth gate is called in the map XVIII Fornacum but I find it called by Writers del Torrione and Posterula and to be repaired by Pope Nicholas the fifth The sixtenth Gate is called XIX la Portusa being neete to the Popes stables The seuententh is called XX di Beluedere lying neere the Popes Pallace and 3 Garden and it is called in some Mapps Angelica and by others Giulia of the Pope Giulius The eightenth is called XXI di S. Angelo and delCastello of the Castle S. Angelo and it was of old called Enea and more lately di Cenello I passe ouer the Gate called of old la Trionfante where the greatest triumphs did enter because no ruines remaine thereof but onely it is said to haue bin seated neere the Triumphall Bridge XXXVI It remaines to speake of the waies leading to Rome which I will note with the letters of the Gates leading to them And first I will onely name the wayes that are within the walles The first la Suburra begins at the Amphitheater called Coliseo 20 and leades to the Church Saint Lucia in Orsia The second la Sacra lies from the Arch of Constantine 21 to the Arch of Vespasian 22 through Forum Romanum 23 to the Capitol XXII The third la Nuoua did leade from the greater Pallace in Mount Palatine XXIII to the Bath of Antonius in Mount Auentine XXIIII The fourth la Trionfale did leade from the Mount Vaticano XXIX to the Capitol in the Mount XXII Capitolino The fifth la via retta was in the Campius Martius where is la colonna di Traiano 10 The Frier Leander describing Rome nameth twentie nine waies within and without the walles namely 1. Appia 2. Latina 3. Labicana 4. Campana 5. Praenestina 6. Cumana 7. Flaminia 8. Cassia 9. Tiburtina 10. Collatina 11. Nomentana 12. Salaria 13. Emilia 14. Portuesen 15. Cornelia 16. Claudia 17. Valeria 18. Ostiensis 19. Laurentina
be the priuiledges which the Iewes haue gotten by bribing especially in the Dutchéy of Sauoy through the vnsatiable auarice of our Christian Princes Neere this Market-place is the large Church of Saint Andrew and the Senate-house in which they shew two statuaes of Cupid whereof one is ancient and of much greater value then the other and a very long Vnicornes horne and a paire of Organs of Aliblaster besides Iewels and vessels of gold and siluer Not farrethence is the third Market-place of Iustice. To conclude at the gate of Saint Francis Church is the head of Virgil which the Neapolitans say as in the description of that Citie I formerly said was stolne from the Sepulcher of Virgil vpon the Mount Pausilip In the Pallace called dellaragione is another statua of Virgil sitting at a Table of brasse as if hee were writing and crowned with Laurell I said formerly that there is a passage from the Lakes into the Riuer Po and so by water to Venice and the Duke to take his pleasure vpon the water hath a baot called Bucentoro because it will beare some two hundred and it is built in the vpper part like a banqueting house hauing fiue roomes with glased windowes wherein the Duke and his Traine doe sit and these roomes are supported vpon a boat the Mariners that row the same sitting vnder the said roomes the first and largest roome whereof was fifteene walking paces long with benches on both sides the second was eight paces long the third fiue and the fourth likewise fiue paces long the fifth was a Gallerie ouer the other roomes fortie paces long and open to which they mounted by staires out of the first roome And this boate doth not onely much differ from our Kings barges aswell for the bignesse as the rich furniture but also is flat in the bottome the waters being still and calme on which it passeth These roomes according to occasions haue more or lesse rich hangings when the Duke either goeth out to disport himself or when he takes any iourny therin as oft he doth It is vnlawfull to weare a sword without licence of the Magistrate either at Milan Cremona Mantua or almost in any Citie of Italy onely at Venice and Paduoa and the Cities of that State strangers may weare Swords and onely the wearing of Pistols or short gunnes is forbidden At Mantua I paied three reali each meale and being to depart thence I was forced to take a Bill of the Customers by which they signifie to the Guard at the gate whether the passenger be to goe on horseback on foote or by coach and what tribute he is to pay for which Bill a footeman paies 3. soldi another passenger six Thus the Princes of italy hauing small Territories doe not onely burthen their subiects with taxes but all strangers strictly take account from the exacters therof Being to goe from hence to Paduoa we went out of the gate Saint Ceorge and I hired a horse from Mantua to the Castle Este for eleuen lires The first day wee passed by a Forte of the Venetians most strongly fortified vpon the consines of that State which Fort lies vpon the Riuer Athesis and is called Lignaco and rode some twenty miles through a Plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy to Monteguiara where I paied fortie soldi that is two lires for my supper The next morning I rode nine miles to the Castle Este whence is the Family of the Dukes of Ferraria long flourishing but now extinct From thence I passed by boate 15 miles to Paduoa and paied 22 soldi for my passage This day when I returned to Paduoa was the 14 of December after the new stile in the yeere 1594 which city the rate of vittles there I haue formerly described CHAP. IIII. Of the Sopulcher of Petrarch at Arqua Of my iourney to Vicenza Verona Brescia and Bergnmo in Italy then passing the Alpes to Chur Zurech Solothurn Geneua and in my returne thence to Berna in Sweitzerland thence to Strasburg in Germany and to Chalon to Paris to Roan and to Diepe in France and finally of my passagety 〈◊〉 Land to London in England WHilest I expected the commoditie of the Spring for my iourney home-wards I went to Venice to receiue money there and retaining a sufficient proportion in my hands I thought to make ouer the rest to Paris by bills of exchange but France hauing been now long wasted with ciuill war I could not finde one Merchant of Venice who had any the least Traffick at Paris Therefore persisting still in my obstinate purpose to returne by France I thought at least to procure the change of this money to Geneua And so only out of my desire to see the Citie of Geneua I resolued againe to passe ouer the Alpes into Sweitzerland though I had formerly seene those Townes Then I bought an Hungarian horse for twentie Crownes of a Dutch Gentleman newly ariued in these parts And while I prepared all things necessary for my iourney and expected a sit season of the yeere it came in my minde to see the Monument not farre distant of the famous Poet Francis Petrarch and being willing to giue my horse rest I went on foot with certaine Dutch Gentlemen thirteene miles to Arqua By the way we did see a most faire Monastery Praia and the Baths of Abano the water wherof doth boile with such heate as it would fetch off the skinne being touched At Arqua is the sepulcher of Fetrarch of red marble spotted and it hath this inscription in Latin To the worthy man F. P. a Laureat Poet his sonne in Law Francis Lus-debro Sauo of Milan for their inward conuersation loue affinitte and his succession left this memory Vnder that followed these verses Frigida Francisci lapis hic tegit ossa Petrarchae Suscipe virgo parens animam sate virgine parce Fessaque iam terris caeli requiescat in Arce This stone doth Francis Petrarches bones inclose Take my soule Virgin spare it Virgins sonne Tired on earth in heauen let it repose Then followed letters raced out MCCC 〈◊〉 XX. XVIIII Then followed the third inscription in Latin with his Image To Francis Petrarch Paulus Valdezucus admiring his Poems and succeeding him in the possession of his house and fields made this Image in the yeere MDXCVII the Ides of September There is also a Fountaine vulgarly called the Fountaine of Petrarch vpon which these verses are written Fonti numen inest hospes venerare liquorem Vnde bihens cecinit digna Petrarcha Deis Some god dwells here worship the sacred Spring Whence Petrarch drinking heauenly Rimes did sing Petrarch dwelt at Arqua and here in the same house wherein they say he dwelt the historie of Petrarches life is painted where the owner of the house shewed vs some household stuffe belonging to him and the very skinne of a Cat he loued which they haue dried and still keepe Here I did see his Studie a pleasant roome especially for the sweet
prospect and likewise a faire picture of Lucretia ready to die No situation can be imagined more pleasant then that of Arqua lying in the mouth of Mountaines abounding with Oliue trees and opening themselues vpon a fruitfull plaine on the East and North sides This plaine yeeldeth nothing in pleasantnes or in fruitfulnes to that of Capua famous for the corrupting of 〈◊〉 Army But it is a 〈◊〉 worke to praise the Euganian hils which so many Poets and Writers haue magnified Vpon Friday the third day of March after the new stile in the beginning of the yeere 1593 according to the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary of the end of the yeere 1594 according to the English beginning the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March I turned my face to iourney towards my deere Countrey And the first day I rode eighteene miles to Vicenza through a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy where one and the same held yeelds plenty of corne and hath Elme trees growing in the furrowes which support the vines so that one field giues bread wine and wood for to burne By the way my curiositie made me turne aside two miles out of the way that I might see a wonderfull Caue and a most pleasant parlor at Costoza in the house of Cesario Irento a Gentleman of Vicenza The Caue was large and fit to receiue diuers bands of souldiers The Parlor was called the prison of AEolus god of the Windes because there were certaine mils which in summer time draw much wind out of hollow Caues and disperse the same through all the chambers of the Paliace refreshing all that dwell there with a most pleasant coole air And vpon this Parlor this verse of Virgill was written AEolus hic clauso ventorum 〈◊〉 cere regnat AEolus here in the winds prison raignes The City of Vicenza is a faire City compassed with a wall of bricke but the building howsoeuer it be very stately is not like to that of other Cities in these parts in this one point namely that the second story of the houses hangeth ouer the streetes and being supported with arches giueth the passengers shelter from raine Here I did see a Theater for Playes which was little but very faire and pleasant In the market place there is a stately Pallace and the monastery of Saint Corona belonging to the preaching Friars is fairely built and hath a rich Library and the Friars keepe for a holy relike the Thorne wherewith Christ was crowned The Citie is subiect to the Venetians and is seated in a plaine hauing mountaines somewhat distant on the North and South sides Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and eighteene soldi for three measures of oates called quarterolli and for the stable so they call hay straw and the stable roome and so I will hereafter call it I paid twenty soldi Here I hired a horse for fiftie six soldi for a foote-man that had attended me hither and was to returne to Paduoa From Vicenza I rode thirty miles to Verona in a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy lying on my left hand towards Italy farther then I could see and hauing fruitfull nils on my right hand towards the Alpes abounding with vines growing low vpon hort stakes and yeelding rich wines I entered Verona on the East side by the Bishops gate called Porta del'vescono They write that the City was of old called Berona by the name of the Founder thereof but the Friar Leander of Bologna writes that the City was built by the Tuseans and had the name of the Family Vera and was after rebuilt by the Galli Cenomani This most faire City is built in the forme of a Lute the necke whereof lies towards the West on which side the Riuer Athesis running towards the East doth not only compasse the City but runs almost through the center of the body of this Lute so as the lesse part of the body lies on the North side of the Riuer The bankes of Athesis vulgarly called 〈◊〉 Adice are ioined together with three bridges of stone and one of marble and are adorned on both sides with many ruines of an old Theater and old triumphall arches The City is compassed with a wall of bricke and is seated towards the South vpon the end of a large slony plaine and towards the other sides vpon pleasant hils rising towards the distant mountaines It is not built with the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with Arches to auoid raine as other Cities are in those parts but the building of the houses is stately and the Cathedrall Church is remarkeable for the antiquity as likewise the Church of Saint Anastatius for the great beauty thereof and towards the wals the ground lies void of houses as the manner is in strong Townes It hath a pure aire and is ennobled by the ciuility and auncient Nobility of the Citizens who are indued with a chearefull countenance magnificent mindes and much inclined to all good literature Verona was a free City vnder the Empire about the yeere 1155 till the Family of the Scaligeri growing great in the City about the yeere 1259 did by little and little inuade the freedome of the City and made themselues Lords ouer it At last Anthony Scaliger killing his brother Bartholmew partner with him of that Lordship about the yeere 1381 was driuen out of the City by Vicount Iohn Galeatius the first Duke of Milan and he being dead William Scaliger helped by Francis Carrariensis droue the Garrilon of Milan out of the City in the yeere 1404. But the said Francis killing the said William by poison and the Family of the Scaligers being then so wasted as scarcely any one was to be found of that name the Venetians tooke occasion by this detestable treason of the said Francis to make the City subiect to them but their Army being defeated by the French in the yeere 1509 by a composition made betweene the French King and the Emperour Maximilian the City became subiect to the said Emperour till the Venetians recouered the same out of his hands in the yeere 1517 vnder whose subiection the City to this day flourisheth in great aboundance of all things On the North-side of the City without the wals is the mountaine Baldo hanging ouer the City and famous for the great plenty of medicinable herbes and vpon the side of this mountaine within the wals are no buildings but onely a strong Fort. On the south side lies the way to Mantua 23 miles distant and vpon the same side lies the foresaid stony plaine fiue miles long and ennobled with many skirmishes battels and victories In this plaine the Consull Caius Marius defeated the Cimbri and Odoacer King of the Heruli who destroied the Westerne Empire was defeated by Theodoricus King of the Ostrogothes and the Dutch Emperour Arnolphus Duke of Bauaria was defeated by Hugh of Burgandy then possessing Italy
them according to the Greeke language for the statua of Isis was at Saint German till it was taken away in the yeere 1514 and a Crosse was set vp in the place thereof by the Bishop of Molun The City hath the name of Lutetia in Latin either of dirt for the Fens adioining or in the Greeke tongue of Morter there digged out because all the floares are of plaster and the houses plastered ouer And some say that it was of old called the City of Iulius Caesar who built great part thereof It lies in the eleuation of the Pole forty eight degrees and the chiefe part thereof namely the Iland or greater City is seated in a fenny ground For the Riuer Seyne hath often ouerflowed Paris and broken downe the bridges In the time of King Phillip Augustus the waters rose to the statuaes without the Cathedrall Church of Saint Mary on the North-side thereof as appeares by an inscription Also in the yeere 1373 for two moneths space they so ouerflowed the City as they passed in boates the streetes of Saint Denis and S. Antoine To conclude omitting many ouerflowings mentioned in Histories it appeares by an inscription in the vally of Misery that in the yeere 1496 there was a great inundation The City of old was all in the Iland and when it could not receiue the multitude increased the City was inlarged to both sides of the continent and first that part of the City called La ville then the third part called the Vniuersity were esteemed suburbes till after they were ioined to the City For the Kings Court and the City still increased with buildings so as the Subburbes were greater then the City whereupon King Charles the fifth gaue them the same priuiledges which the City had and compassed them with wals whereof the ruines yet appeare And new Suburbes being afterwards built King Henry the second in the yeere 〈◊〉 made an Edict that the houses vnpersected should be pulled down and that no more should afterwards be built The Riuer Seyne running from the South and entering at the South-side diuides the City into two parts the greater part whereof towards the East and North lies low in a plaine and is vulgarly called La ville The lesse lying towards the South and West vpon a higher ground is seated betweene hils and is called the Vniuersity Betweene those two parts lies the third namely the Iland called the City which is seated in a plaine and compassed on all sides with the Riuer Seyne running betweene the Ville and the Vniuersity And this part was of old ioined to the Vniuersity with two bridges and to the Ville with three bridges but now a sixth called the new bridge doth moreouer ioine the Iland aswell to the Ville as to the Vniuersity The part of the City called the Ville is compassed on the south and west sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the East and North sides with wals rampiers and ditches in the forme of halfe a circle The second part of the City called the Vniuersity is compassed on the East and North sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South and West sides with wals which they write to haue the forme of a hat saue that the long suburbes somewhat alter this forme For my part it seemed to me that ioined with the Iland it had also the forme of another halfe circle though somewhat lesse then the former The third part called the Iland or City is compassed round about with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South-east side is defended from the floods of the Riuer by foure little Ilands which are marked in the map with blacke ines and lie like Rampiers diuerting the streame from beating on the City To this Iland they passe on both sides by bridges and in respect of the Bishops Pallace he Kings greater Pallace it may be called the heart of the City The old wals of the Ville were first of lesse circuit then now they are for new wals were built which also included the Suburbes and the inner wall is of vnpolished stone the outer wall is of earth compailed round about with ditches which neere the Riuer are broad and full of water but further off towards the North and East are narrow and altogether drie But the old wals are either demolished or conuerted to the supporting of priuate houses The Vniuersity is compassed with like wals and because it is seated vpon high ground the ditches are altogether drie And the wals of earth aswell of the Ville as the Vniuersity are so broad as three or foure may walke together vpon them And round about the City I meane the Ville and Vniuersity compassing the Iland are many rampiers vppon the wall like so many Forts The Iland or City was of old compassed with wals wherewith the greater Pallace lying towards the North at this day is compassed Paris in generall is subiect to the King so as it hath vnder him a peculiar iurisdiction and in spirituall matters it is subiect to the Bishop In the time of King Lewis the eleuenth one hundred and foure thousand Citizens were numbered able to beare armes in the yeere 1466 and King Charles the fifth in the yeere 1371 gaue the Citizens the rights and priuiledges of Gentlemen King Phillip Augustus in the yeere 1090 made Shiriffes to gouerne the City with consular authority and he gaue the City for Armes a ship adorned with Lillies he paued the streetes with flint and compassed the City with wals The Parisians haue raised many seditions The first in the yeere 1306 against rich men raising the rents of houses The second with the King of Nauar and the English against the Dolphin The third in the yeere 1383 against the Kings Treasurers which Charles the sixth returning with his Army out of Flanders did seuerely punish The fourth betweene the factions of Orleans and Burgundy The fifth most pestilent and longest with the Guisians against the last King of Valois The building of the City is for the most part stately of vnpolished stone with the outside plastered and rough cast and the houses for the most part are foure stories high and sometimes sixe besides the roofe which also hath glasse windowes The streetes are somewhat large and among them the fairest is that of Saint Dennis the second Saint Honere the third Saint Antoine and the fourth Saint Martine And in the Iland the waies to these streetes are fairest The pauement is of little but thicke and somewhat broade stones But in the meane time the streetes of the Ville either for the low situation or by the negligence of the Citizens are continually dirty and full of filth The three parts of the City namely the Ville the Iland and the Vniuersity being ioined together are of a round forme which of all others is most capable saue that the halfe circle of the Ville is greater then the other halfe circle which is compassed as it were with the two hornes of
And he shewed vs one that had throughout the figure of Christ crucified another that had the figure of the Popes triple Crowne and another that had the liuely figure of Luther Surely the Germans are accounted no iuglers nor liers and if they would haue deceiued vs yet I cannot see how our eyes should be deceiued seeing many of them broken and stil hauing the same figure This poore Village yet pleasant for the seat was of old a City and at this time the houses were couered as they be in many parts of Germany not with tiles of bricke but with like peeces of wood Here each of vs paid a quarter of a doller for our owne and the Coach-mans dinner In the afternoone we passed a dirty way but through fruitfull corne fields foure miles to Sangerhausen where each of vs in like sort paid the fourth part of a doller and a grosh for our supper This being the first Village of the Prouince Thuring belongs to the Elector of Saxony The fourth day in the morning wee passed through most pleasant fruitfull hils of corne adorned with some pleasant woods which in higher Germany are of firre that is greene all winter foure miles in the territory of the Elector of Saxony to a Countrey Inne where hauing nothing but egges for our dinner we paid iointly ten siluer grosh After dinner we passed in the same Electors territory and through the like soyle or Countrey three miles and a halfe to a Countrey Inne where we had to supper a pudding as big as a mans legge and grosse meat and straw for our beds and iointly paid foureteene grosh The fifth day early in the morning we passed-through the like way but more pleasant for the plenty of Vines two miles to the City of Erfurt where we foure English consorts with our Coach-man paied iointly a doller and twenty one grosh for our dinner with sower wine of the Countrey This City is seated in a plaine and is a free City but not an imperiall City and paies some tribute to the Bishop of Metz and to the Saxon Duke of Wineberg It is large being a Dutch mile in compasse but the houses are poorely built of timber and clay hauing the roofes couered with tiles of wood and they seeme to be built of old It hath forty two Churches but onely sixteene are vsed for diuine seruice namely eight for the Papists among which are the two Cathedrall Churches vnder the power of the Archbishop of Metz and eight for the Protestants or Lutherans This is the chiefe City of Thuring and of old here was an Vniuersity but time hath dissolued it After dinner at the first going out of the City wee ascended a very high mountaine whereupon is a pleasant wood of firre Then we passed by the beautifull little City of Armstat I call it beautifull for the seate in a firtile soyle hauing drie and pleasant walkes and for the plenty of fountaines and groaues and for the magnificence of the Castle wherein the Count of Schwartzburg keepes his Court finally for the vniforme building of the City which some fifteene yeeres past was burnt to the ground and was since rebuilded and so comming from Erfurt we passed three long miles to the Village Blaw subiect to the Count of Schwartzburg where iointly we paid foureteene grosh for our supper The sixth day we passed three miles through wooddy mountaines to the Village Fraw-im-Wald that is our Lady in the wood which Village is subiect to the said Count and here we paid iointly thirty seuen grosh and a halfe for our dinner After dinner wee passed three miles through mountaines couered with snow and woods of firre to Eysfield subiect to the Saxon Duke of Coburg For this wood of Thuring vulgarly called Thuringwald hath many Lords namely the Elector of Saxony the Saxon Dukes of Wineberg Coburg and the Count Schwartzburg The Duke of Coburg hath in this place a faire Castle and we paid iointly for vs foure and the Coach-man sixty foure grosh for our supper and breakefast The seuenth day in the morning we passed three miles ouer dirty mountaines and fruitfull in corne to Coburg seated in the Prouince of Franconia They say this City was of old called Cotburg that is the City of dirt and the dirty streetes well deserue the name Here one of the Dukes of Saxony called of Coburg kept his Court and our Host told vs that his Dutchesse for adultery was then bricked vp in a wall the place being so narrow as shee could onely stand and hauing no dore but onely a hole whereat they gaue her meat The building of the City was very base of timber and clay Here we fiue paid sixteene grosh for our dinner In the afternoone we passed two miles to the Towne Clawsen through fruitfull hils of corne and in a most dirty way where we fiue paid forty nine grosh for our supper and the Towne is subiect to the Popish Bishop of Bamberg The eight day we passed foure miles to Bamberg through a fruitfull plaine of corne and pleasant hils planted with vines and in a most dirty way This City is the seate of the Bishop of Bamberg By the way we passed by a Ferry the Riuer Manus running to Franckfort Here we fiue paid thirty seuen grosh for our dinner In the afternoone we passed through a wood of firre in a sandy soyle and then through fruitfull fields of corne and pleasant hils three mile vnto a Village subiect to the Margraue of Anspach from which a City subiect to the Bishop of Bamberg is not farre distant for the Princes dominions in these parts are mingled one with the other and here we fiue paid fifty fiue grosh for our supper The ninth day we passed three miles through a sandy and barren plaine and woods of firre alwaies greene to a Village subiect to the said Margraue where we fiue paid forty grosh for our dinner In the afternoone we passed three miles through the like way to Nurnburg and being now free from paying for our Coach-man each of vs paid here six batzen each meale and foure creitzers each day for our chamber This City I haue formerly discribed and so passe it ouer Here we hired a Coach being seuen consorts for twelue Dutch guldens to Augsburg being nineteene miles distant The first day after breakefast we passed through Nurnburg wood two miles and in the said Margraues territory who is of the Family of the Electors of Brandeburg foure miles to Blinfield and each of vs paid ten batzen for our supper and foure batzen for a banquet after supper The second day in the morning we passed foure miles to the City Monheyme subiect to the Phaltz-graue of the Rheine and here each of vs paid halfe a gulden for his dinner By the way in this mornings iourney we did see Weyssenburg a free but not imperiall City protected by Nurnburg The Margraue of Anspach Lord of this territory hath a Fort built vpon a Mountaine
that hangs ouer this free City which when he did build the Citizens complained to the Emperour and they say that how soeuer they brought the Emperours Mandate to desist from the worke yet he would not obey the same The rest of our iourny to Monheyme was in the territory of the Baron of Papenheym in a dirty way through many woods And in a village subiect to that Baron we had a guide and two fresh horses for our Coach and for them our Coach-man paid sixe batzen After dinner we passed three miles through a wood and fruitfull hils of corne to the City Donwerd being a faire imperiall City which I haue formerly described and here each man paid sixe batzen for his supper Now we were come out of Franconio and began to enter into Suenia The third day we passed three miles through fruitfull fields of corne and woods of firre to a Village where each man paid eight batzen for his dinner In the afternoone we passed through likeway three miles to Augsburg where each man paid seuen batzen for each meale I passe ouer this City which I haue discribed before Heere we agreed with the Carrier of Augsburg who by course that weeke went to Venice that each of vs should pay him seuenteene Crownes each Crowne worth twentie two batzen and that he not onely should find euery man a horse and pay for the horses meate but also should pay for our diet And heere I gained this by my Dutch Language that making the bargaine with him for one of my Countrimen who could not speake Dutch when wee came to Venice and hee hauing no mony could not pay the Carrier I had no remedie but to pay those Crownes for him to which the Law would haue compelled me as the maker of the bargaine if I had not rather chosen willingly to doe it See how ignorance may sometimes aduantage and skill may preiudice a man We began this iourney in the afternoone and the first day through a Heath and in the Territorie of the Duke of Bauaria from the very Gates of Augsburg wee rode sixe miles to an Inne neere Landsperg The second day in the morning through fruitfull Hilles and Woods of Firre greene at this time of the yeere we rode foure miles to Schongaw and after dinner through Mountaines couered with snow foure miles to Amberg The third day in the morning we rode two miles to the Village Warten kerken and after dinner sixe short miles to Seyfeld and in the midest of the way a Bridge diuides the Dukedome of Bauaria from the County of Tyrall At Seyfeld there is a Church built in memory of a Gentleman swallowed vp by the gaping earth as they say because being to receiue the Sacrament hee demaunded in scoffe a great piece of bread The fourth day in the morning wee rode three miles to Inspruck the chiefe Citie of Tyrall subiect to the Familie of Austria where being at the top of the Alpes the Mountaines beganne to open towardes the South and our mornings iourney was in a pleasant Plaine betweene the highest Mountaines Passing this plaine they shewed vs vpon a high Mountaine so high as we could scarce discerne the things they shewed though of great bignesse I say they shewed vs the statua of the Emperour Maximiltan proportionable to his body and a great Crucifix erected by him vpon this occasion One day when he hunted and wandring from his company lost himselfe so as he had no hope to get out of those most thick woods and most high Mountaines there appeared to him a man or as they said his good Angell who led him through wilde vast Woods till he came in safetie and then vanished away in memorie whereof they say the Emperour erected these monuments In this Citie of Inspruck and in the Cathedrall Church thereof is the Sepulcher of the said Emperour and there be many Images partly of Brasse partly of Marble erected to the Archdukes of Austria and eight of Brasse erected to the Arch-Dutchesses Among them was the sepulcher of Philippina a Citizens Daughter of Augsburg whom the Arch-Duke Ferdinand lately buried and lying in a Chappell without any sepulcher as then erected to him tooke for his Wife but with a coucnant as they say that her children should not inherit as Arch-dukes of Austria From hence wee rode in the afternoone betweene Mountaines descending into Italy and lying towards the South Sunne foure miles and a halfe of most pleasant way to Lueg The fifth day we passed the Mountaine Bremer and rode two miles and a halfe to Sterzen subiect to the Cardinall of Brixia one of the Family of the Arch-Dukes of Austria at Inspruck The Mountaine Bremer is more then a Dutch mile high yet nothing steepe this way from Augsburg to Venice being for the most part through pleasant Vallyes in the middest of Mountaines and so winding ouer the Mountaines as the passage is very easie Here my brother Henrie falling sicke I delt with the carrier that we paying him three guldins and a halfe for the common charge of his companies supper he would there stay for vs till the next morning and this likewise I obtained of our consorts with more ease because they were to diet at the Carriers charge The sixth day we rode three miles to a Village not farre distant from Brixia where the said Cardinall held his Court this way being all through woody Mountaines After dinner we rode three miles in the said Cardinals Territorie through Mountaines and Hilles planted with Vines and lying towards the South Sunne to Clausy The seuenth day we rode foure miles in a straight way betweene Rockes with pleasant Orchards of Pomgranats and other Italian fruites lying on both sides to 〈◊〉 which the Dutch call Pozen And after dinner we began to leaue the Alpes on our backe and rode three miles to Newmart through Woods of Firre in a Plaine more and more inlarging it selfe and planted after the Lombard fashion with Elme trees set in the surrowes of Corne-fieldes and Vines growing vp high vpon the Elmes The eighth day wee rode by the banke of the Riuer Athesis to Trent three miles in the County Tyroll within the Dutch Empire and one Dutch mile in Italy The Citie Trent is seated in length from a Mountaine on the East side to another on the West side and the Riuer Athesis which the Dutch call Esh runnes by the City on the North side The Citie is famous by a late Councell held there and the Arch-Duke of Austria at Inspruck hath his Officer there to gather Tributes belonging to him And the Cardinall Madrucci lame of an arme and foote but reputed eloquent hath some priuiledges in this Citie for the administration of Iustice and otherwise for the command of the Citie belongs to the Family of Madrucci being Gentlemen After dinner we entered the Mountaines againe where wee walked ouer a way paued with Flint which the Dutch call Plat and did leade our horses in our hands
Citie are seated vpon Mountaines yet lower then any other part of the Citie Vpon the higher part of Mount Sion on the same South side towards the West lie many ruines of houses and it is most certaine that the Tower of Dauid and other famous houses there which are now without the walles were of old inclosed within them and that the City extended somewhat further towards the South then now it doth Yet the Hill of Sion is so compassed with knowne Vallies and those Vallies with high Mountaines as this extent could not be great Ierusalem was of old called Moria where they write that Adam was created of red earth is seated vpon Mount Moriah vpon the top wherof towards the North-west is Mount Caluery where they say that Abraham was ready to sacrifice his sonne Isaac and where without doubt our Sauiour Christ suffered and in the lowest part of this Mountaine the Temple of Salomon was seated The Citie was after called Salem and thirdly Iebus and fourthly Ierusalem and at this day the Turkes haue named it 〈◊〉 It is compassed with stately walles the like whereof I did neuer see of red and blacke stone more then an Elle long and about halfe an Elle broad I call them stately for the antiquitie wherein for the most part they much excell the Roman walles I numbred seuen Gates The first of Damasco of old called the Gate of Ephraim on the North side The second of Saint Stephen on the East side which of old had the name of the beasts for sacrifice brought in that way The third the golden Gate also on the East side which at this day is shut and bricked vp The fourth the Gate of presentation on the South-side leading into the Temple of Salomon but at this day shutvp The fifth Sterquilinea also on the South side so called of the filth there carried out The sixth the Gate of Syon also on the South side neare that part of Mount Syon which at this day is without the walles but this Gate hath been newly built The seuenth of Ioppa towards the West also newly built In generall the Gates are nothing lesse then fortified only as it were to terrifie the Christians who enter at the Gate of Ioppa they haue braggingly fortified the same and planted great Ordinance vpon it And howsoeuer the Citie seemes strong enough against sudden tumults yet it is no way able to hold out against a Christian Army well furnished neither doe the Turkes trust to their Forts but to their forces in field The houses here and in all parts of Asia that I haue seene are built of Flint stone very low onely one storie high the top whereof is plaine and plastered and hath battlements almost a yard high and in the day time they hide themselues within the chamber vnder this plastered floare from the Sunne and after Sunne-set walke eate and sleepe vpon the said plastred floare where as they walke each one may see their neighbours sleeping in bed or eating at table But as in the heate of the day they can scarce indure to weare linnen hose so when the Syren or dew falls at night they keepe themselues within dores till it be dried vp or else fling some garment ouer their heads And with this dew of the night all the fields are moistened the falling of raine being very rare in these parts towards the Equinoctiall line and in this place particularly happening onely about the month of October about which time it falles sometimes with great force by whole pales full The houses neare the Temple of Salomon are built with arches into the streete vnder which they walke drie and couered from the Sunne as like wife the houses are built in that sort in that part of the Citie where they shew the house of Herod in both which places the way on both sides the streete is raised for those that walke on foote lying low in the middest for the passage of laded Asses In other parts the Citie lies vninhabited there being onely Monasteriesof diuers Christian Sects with their Gardens And by reason of these waste places and heapes of Flint lying at the dores of the houses and the low building of them some streetes seeme rather ruines then dwelling houses to him that lookes on them neere hand But to them who behold the Citie from eminent places and especially from the most pleasant Mount Oliuet abounding with Oliues and the highest of all the Mountaines the prospect of the Citie and more specially of the Churches and Monasteries which are built with eleuated Glòbes couered with brasse or such glistering mettall promiseth much more beauty of the whole Citie to the beholders eyes then indeed it hath The circuit of the walles containeth some two or three Italian miles All the Citizens are either Tailors Shoomakers Cookes or Smiths which Smiths make their keyes and lockes not of Iron but of wood and in generall poore rascall people mingled of the scumme of diuers Nations partly Arabians partly Moores partly the basest inhabitants of neighbour Countries by which kind of people all the adioyning Territorie is likewise inhabited The Iewes in Turky are distinguished from others by red hats and being practicall doe liue for the most part vpon the sea-coasts and few or none of them come to this Citie inhabited by Christians that hate them and which should haue no traffique if the Christian Monasteries were taken away Finally the Inhabitants of Ierusalem at this day are as wicked as they were when they crucified our Lord gladly taking all occasions to vse Christians despitefully They esteemed vs Princes because wee wore gloues and brought with vs shirts and like necessaries though otherwise we were most poorely appareled yet when we went to see the monuments they sent out their boyes to scorne vs who leaped vpon our backes from the higher parts of the streete we passing in the lower part and snatched from vs our hats and other things while their fathers were no lesse ready to doe vs all iniuries which we were forced to beare silently and with incredible patience Hence it was that Robert Duke of Normandy being sicke and carried into Ierusalem vpon the backs of like rascalls when he met by the way a friend who then was returning into Europe desiring to know what hee would command him to his friends hee earnestly intreated him to tell them that he saw Duke Robert caried into heauen vpon the backs of Diuels The description of the Citie and the Territorie Now followes the explication of the Citie described and first the small Line drawne within the present walles on the West side of the Citie shewes the old walles thereof before Mount Caluery was inclosed within the walles by the Christian Kings for now there remaine no ruines of the old walles this line being onely imaginarie 1 Mount Sion without the walles for part of it is yet inclosed with them 2 The faire Castle which was built by the Pisans of Italy while yet
of Mount Oliuet in which they say Christ vsed to pray and did sweat bloud 44 Here they shew a place where they say beleeue it who list that S. Thomas after the Virgines buriall did see her both in body and soule assumed into heauen and that she casting her girdle to him gaue it for testimony thereof that all others might beleeue it In my opinion they did well to make Saint Thomas see it for otherwise hee would neuer haue beleeued it 45 The place where they say the Virgin was wont to rest when she visited the places frequented by her Sonne in the time hee liued heere and where she beheld the stoning of Saint Stephen and prayed for him 46 The stone where Christ leauing Peter Iames and Iohn said that his soule was heauy vnto death and went aside to pray warning them to watch 47 Here is a little circuit inclosed with a low wall where they report the Garden to be at the foot of Mount Oliuet where Christ vsed to pray and was betrayed by Iudas with a kisse 48 The place where they say the Village of Getsemany was of old seated Round about this place the Turks doe bury their dead as they do also in a field on the North side without the walles for they neuer burie within Cities excepting onely the monuments of their Emperours 49 Here they say Saint Iames the lesse did lye hidden till hee heard that Christ was risen againe the third day after his Passion 50 Here be two old Sepulchers almost of a round forme built of Free-stone or rather cut out of the liuing stone wherof the one is called the Sepulcher of Absolon the sonne of Dauid the other of King Manasses or as others say of the King Ezektas And considering the antiquitie they seeme no Plebean Sepulchers but stately and fit for Princes being foure Elles from the ground in height 51 Here is the top of Mount Oliuet the highest of all the Mountaines that compasse Ierusalem and here in a Chappell they shew in stone the print of Christs feete when he ascended into Heauen And this Chappell is kept by a Turkish Zanton that is a kinde of their Priests and the Turkes giue such reuerence to the monuments of Christ liuing on earth as they are much offended with Christians if they creepe not on their knees and with their shooes off to this and like monuments To the keeper hereof we gaue a few meidines for reward 52 Here they say Christ did weepe ouer the Citie and rich Temple of Salomon and in this place is the fullest prospect to view the Citie and Temple 53 Here they shew the ruines of the house wherein the Apostles assembled did write the Creede 54 Here they say Christ taught his Disciples to pray in the forme euer since receiued and here was a Church built by the Christians of old 55 Here they say Christ foretold the signes of the day of Iudgement 56 Here they say the Angell foretold the Virgin shee should die at three dayes ende Vpon Thursday the sixth of Iune we being to goe to Bethania hired each of vs an Asse for foure meidines that place being scarse two Italian miles from the citie Of our company we were foure Lay-men and because the Friers our consorts pleaded themselues to be free from such expences we were content to yeeld to them and gaue iointly into the hands of the Fryer our guide two zechines wherewith he was to giue small rewards and to pay the Muccaro who furnished vs with Asses for we meant not to eate till our returne the place being no further distant and there being no dwellings but onely the ruines of houses What our guide spent I know not for he neuer offered to giue vs account and because he was a Frier wee would not trouble him in demaunding it We went out by the Gate Sterquilinea noted with the figure 11 on the South side 57 First we came to the Fountaine Siloe to which Christ sent the blind man to wash his eyes and there we found Turkish women washing who beate vs away with stones 58 Here they shew a monument of the Prophet Elia but what it was I remember not 59 Here they shew a Fountaine where they say the Virgin washed Christs clothes when he was an infant 60 The Mount of Offence opposite to Mount Sion which Mount lies beyond the Brooke Cedron and extendeth Eastward towards Bethania and vpon the top thereof they shew the ruines of the Pallace which Salomon built for his Concubines and of the Altar vpon which hee sacrificed to Idols Betweene this Mount and that of Mount Sion they shew the Valley of the sonnes of Hinnon towards the West and there they shew a place wherein the Iewes offered their children to the Idoll Molech that is Saturne yet we reade that this Valley lies by the entry of the East-Gate Ieremtah chap. 19. vers 2. 61 Here they say the Prophet Isaiah was cut in pieces with a Sawe at the commaund of King Manasses 62 Here is a bridge ouer the Brook Kedron or Cedron of one Arch built of stone whereby they passe when the bed of the Brooke is filled with water which now wee passed drie footed And here they shew a place where they say Christ fell vpon the stones of the bed where the brook should runne when he being betraied by Iudas was drawne into the Citie in a great presse of the Iewes And vpon these stones are the prints of hands and feete as they say his 63 The way leading to Bethania ouer Mount Oliuet 64 The place where they say Iudas hanged himselfe and burst after he had betraied his Lord. Not farre hence they shew a figge tree which they say Christ cursed because it had leaues without fruit 65 Here descending from Mount Oliuet towards the East we did see farre off the valley Iordan to which the Mountaines decline by little and little And now we were come to Bethania where we did see the House of Simon the Leaper not yet ruined and inhabited by a Moore to whom we gaue a few meidines 66 Here they shew stately ruines of a Pallace which they say belonged to Lazarus And not farre thence is a Chappell built ouer the stately sepulcher of Lazarus the key whereof the Friars our guides had with them For the Turkes putting great religion in reuerencing this place haue an Oratory neere it and enter into the Sepulcher by another way Here they say Christ raised Lazarus out of his graue At our going forth wee were forced to giue some few meidines to certaine Turkes and Arabians I know not whether they had the Place in keeping or no 67 The House of Mary 68 The House of Martha her sister 69 The stone vpon which they say Christ did sit before he did see the sisters of Lazarus bewailing his death and it is some halfe mile from Bethania 70 This small line sheweth the bed of the Riuer Iordan running through a most pleasant valley which
outside of the earth Palestina was farre distant from the Equinoctiall line which diuideth the World into equall parts And if Palestina were iust vnder that line yet that all the countries hauing the same Meridian should be the middest of the World as well as Palestina They answered that Dauid saith in his Psalmes In the middest of the World I will worke their saluation To which I replied that the middest of the World was there taken for the face and in the sight of the World so as none should be able to denie it Whereupon they grew angry and said that the Scripture must be beleeued in spite of all Cosmographers and Philosophers It had been vaine to dispute further with them there being not one learned man among these Greekes at Ierusalem And to say truth if you except the Greeke Ilands vnder the Venetians they haue few or no learned men For my part I neuer found in all the vast Empire of Ottoman any learned Greeke but onely one called Milesius who was after made Patriarke of Constantinople And these Greekes as in this point so in all other follow the literall sense of the Scriptures For which cause they also beleeue the corporall presence of Christ in the Sacrament And whereas Saint Paul saith Let the Bishop be the husband of one wife c. they so interpret it as if the Priests wife die within few dayes after his mariage yet he may neuer marry againe The Sorians are so called of Syria in which Prouince they liue hauing their owne Patriarke neither could they euer bee brought to consent to the Roman faith for whatsoeuer the Romanes challenge due to the Seat of S. Peter that they say rather belongeth to them in respect Saint Peter was Bishop of Anttoch They agreed with the Greekes in many things they denie Purgatorie they fast foure Lents in the yeere they permit their Priests to marrie they vse the Greeke tongue in their Diuine seruice and otherwise speake their owne language which I take to be the Arabian tongue In Ierusalem Church they keepe the Sepulchers of Ioseph of 〈◊〉 and of Nicodemus and in the Citie they keepe the house of Saint Marke noted with the figure 37. The Costi are Egyptians dwelling about Numidia They retaine the heresie of Arrius and follow the Ceremonies of the Abissines This I write vpon the report of the Italian Friers who are to be blamed if it be not true These in the Church keepe the Chappell wherein Godfrey and his Regall Family lye buried and the Caue vnder Mount Caluerie where they say the scull of Adam lies and haue also their proper Altar vpon Mount Caluarie The Abissines inhabit the South parts of Africk and they are subiect to their King Preti-Giani They receiued the Christian faith of the Eunuch baptized by Phillip and themselues are baptized not onely with water but with the signe of the Crosse printed in their flesh with hot Iron gathering that fire is as necessary to Baptisme as water out of those words of S. Iohn Baptist I baptise you with water but he shall baptise you with the Spirit and fire Also they vse the Iewes and Mahometans circumcision like wary Notaries who fearing to faile in their assurance neuer think they haue vsed words enough yet doe they greatly hatë the Iewes and thinke their Altars defiled if they doe but looke vpon them They giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper to very children and they as all the rest excepting the Franks that is Papists giue it in both kindes When they sing Masse or Psalmes they leape and clap their hands and like the Iewes vse Stage-Players actions They vse their owne that is the Egyptian tongue in Diuine seruice and obseruing a Lent of fiftie dayes at one time do greatly maccrate their bodies In the Church they keepe the Chappell adioyning to the Sepulcher and the pillar where they say Christ was crowned with Thornes The Armenians are so called of the Prouince Armenta which they inhabite and they call their chiefe Bishop Catholicon whom they reuerence as another Pope They disagree with the Greekes and rather apply themselues to the Franks yet they keepe not the Feast of Christs birth but fast that day They keepe the Roman Lent but more strictly abstaining from Fish and very Oyle which they vse for butter but vpon some Holy-dayes in that time they eate flesh They mingle no water with the Wine of the Sacrament as the Papists doe but with them they lift vp the bread yea and the Cup also to be worshipped Of old with reseruation of customes they ioyned themselues to the Roman Church but finding the Pope to giue them no helpe against their enemies they quickly fell from him The very Lay men are shaued like Clerkes vpon their heads but in the forme of a Crosse and their Priests keepe the haire of their heads long in two tusts placing therein great Religion In the Church they keepe the pillar where they say the garments of Christ were parted and lots cast vpon his Coate and in the Citie the place where they say Saint lames was beheaded and the house of the High Priest Caiphas vpon Mount Sion The Nestorians are so called of the Monke Nestorius who infected the Persians Tartars and Iewes with his heresie They giue the Sacrament of the Lords Supper in both kindes and that to children as well as men They vse the Caldean tongue in diuine seruice and otherwise the Arabian In the Church they keepe the prison wherein they say Christ was shut vp The Maronites inhabite Phanicia and the Mount of Libanus and they vse the Syrian tongue in their diuine seruice namely as I thinke the Arabian And they said that these men for pouerty were lately fled from Ierusalem Some make mention of a tenth sect namely the lacobites named of Iacob Disciple to the Patriarke of Alexandria who liue mingled among Turkes Tartares inhabiting partly Nubia in Afrike partly the Prouinces of India I remember not to haue seene any such at my being there neither yet to haue heard any mention of them yet others write that they admit circumcision as well as baptisme and besides print the signe of the Crosse by an hot Iron in some conspicuous part of their body that they confesse their sinnes onely to God not to their Priests that they acknowledge but one nature in Christ that in token of their faith they make the signe of the Crosse with one finger and giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper in both kinds yea to Infants as well as to those who are of full age I cannot omit an old Spanish woman who had for many yeeres liued there locked vp in the Temple lodging euery night at the doore of the sepulcher and hauing her diet by the Friars almes Shee said that shee came to Ierusalem to expiate her sinnesby that holy pilgrimage that shee had then beene there seuen yeeres and in that time had alwaies
Damascus and Haleppo yet the City of Tripoli still yeelds foure hundred thousand crownes yeerely to the Great Turke It may seeme incredible but it is most certaine that here and throughout Syria they haue sheepe of such bignes as the very tailes of them hanging in many wreathes to the ground doe weigh twenty fiue pounds and many times thirty three pounds A Christian who vseth to entertaine the French did very well intreat vs here and when I did see a bed made for me and my brother with cleane sheetes I could scarcely containe my selfe from going to bed before supper because I had neuer lien in naked bed since I came from Venice to this day hauing alwaies slept by sea and land in my doublet with linnen breeches and stockings vpon a mattresse and betweene couerlets or quilts with my breeches vnder my head But after supper all this ioy vanished by an euent least expected For in this part of Asia great store of cotten growes as it were vpon stalkes like Cabbage as I formerly said in my iourney from Ioppa to Ierusalem and these sheetes being made thereof did so increase the perpetuall heat of this Countrey now most vnsupportable in the summer time as I was forced to leape out of my bed and sleepe as I had formerly done My Host told me a strange thing namely that in Alexandria of AEgypt seated vpon one of the mouthes of the Riuer Nilus there was a Doue-cote that also at Cairo or Babylon farre within the Land of AEgypt there was another Doue-cote and because it much concernes the Merchants to haue speedy newes of any commodity arriuing he assured mee that they vsed to tie letters about the neckes of the Doues at Alexandria and so to let them loose which Doues hauing formerly bred in the Doue-cote at Cayro did flie thither most swiftly and the Keeper of them there taking the Letters they brought vsed to deliuer them to the Merchants This I beleeued not till I came to Haeleppo and telling it for a fable to the English Merchants there they seriously affirmed the same to be true Moreouer the Host of Tripoli told me newes from Constantinople namely that the Greekes had burnt great part of the City which he thought to be false and onely inuented to oppresse them in other parts and that the Ianizaries had raised a great tumult against the Subasha of the City who vsed great seuerity towards them by restraining them from drinking wine and from keeping harlots and that some one hundred of these seditious Ianizaries were drowned in the Heuen and the rest were daily sought out to be punished Moreouer that Halil Basha the Admirall of Turkey was parted from Constantinople with sixty Gallies hauing taken many Greeke and Armenian Christians by force to row in his Gallies besides that for want of Marriners he had left there twenty Gallies which were prepared to keepe that narrow sea Finally that the Great Turke was presently to goe with his Army into Hungary but was not yet departed from the City Now the French-men our consorts went aboard a ship of Marsiles to returne into France But my selfe and my brother being to goe by Land to Haleppo agreed to giue our Muccaro nine piastri for two Asses to ride vpon and their meate and for three tributes called cafarri which he was to pay for vs by the way comming to some twenty meidines They call him Muccaro who lets out Mules Asses or Horses and they call him Malem who conducts the Merchants goods Moreouer we were forced to giue a suger-loafe to the value of a Zechine to the Gouernour of the City and a Piastro to the Scribe or Clerke of the City for the priuiledge to goe without a Ianizare to conduct vs so they pretended omitting no occasions to extort from Christians But we couenanted not to pay the nine piastri to our Muccaro till our iourney was ended onely giuing one piastro into his hands for earnest and pretending that we would pay the rest at Haleppo where we were to receiue money left they thinking that we had store of crowns with vs should practise any treason or oppression against vs. This Piastro we gaue him in hand to buy meat for his beasts and the other eight we paid after at Haleppo and besides gaue him of free gift a zechine for his faithfull seruice to vs by the way We were to take our iourney with the Carauan going from Tripoli to Haleppo The Turkes call a Carauan the company of Merchants passengers and driuers of loaded Camels keeping together for safety against Theeues and vsing to lodge in the open field For in Turkey they make iourneies in great troopes neither did I euer see any ride alone but onely a horseman of the Armie and that very rarely Vpon Saturday the two and twentie of Iune we went out of Tripoli at the North Gate and passed ouer a Bridge of the foresaid Brooke and from eight of the clocke till Noone we passed along the Sea-shoare and ouer high Mountaines then ouer an vntilled Plaine seeing not one Village nor so much as the least house by the way Then at last comming to a little shade of Fig-trees we rested there the heate of the day and fed vpon such victuals as we had while our Muccaro and the rest gaue meate to their beasts At three of the clock in the after-noone we went forward in the like way and late in the euening we came to a Village neere which we lodged in the open field in a pleasant plot of grasse neere the banke of a Riuer planted with some trees Vpon Sunday wee rose early and for two howers space passed a Promontory of the Sea then turning towards the Land wee passed through wilde and vntilled Hilles and plaine fields and at Noone we rested vnder the shaddow of some Brambles refreshing our selues with meate and sleepe and giuing meate to our Asses At three in the afternoone wee went forward and passed by the Castle Huss in which some say Iob dwelt and which they say was possessed by the French while they had the Kingdome of Ierusalem Also we passed by a Monastery of Saint George then possessed by Christian Friers and seated in a pleasant Valley yeelding trees of Figs and Oliues And towards euening we incamped as I may terme it in the open field at the foot of a high Mountaine They say Iob did of old possesse this Territorie and that not farre hence in the way leading to Damascus there is a Citie now called Hemps and of old called Huss which the Christian Inhabitants to this day call the Citie of Iob and the Valley not far distant the Valley of Huss and the Turkes haue built a Mosche or Church in this Citie which they thinke to be built vpon the very ruines of the house wherein Iob dwelt and that his body was carried from hence to Constantinople Others obiect that according to the Scriptures Iob could not dwell here because they write
landing and leauing vs there in a place altogether disinhabited From thence we asking the way of the Countrey people did with much trouble at last come to the Monastery Saint Maria Ogidietra vpon the fiue and twenty of this present after the new stile where the Friers till they may know the pleasure of your Excellency wil in no sort giue vs liberty to conuerse but in the meane time haue shut vs vp in a solitary garden house My iourney lies further to Constantinople for the affaires of the Lord Ambassadour of England there abiding Wherefore I humbly pray that your excellency will vouchsafe to haue fauourable respect of a poore stranger borne of a Nation well affected to that of your Excellency and that by your fauour licence may bee sent me freely to conuerse and to take my iourney to the City of Candia since my solitary liuing here all delay and many other things in this place are irksome vnto me Thus assuring my selfe that your Excellency will haue compassion of his seruant tired with many misfortunes by Sea and Land I beseech God for the increase of your honor and so humbly kisse your hands From San ' Maria Ogidietra this fiue and twenty of October after the new stile in the yeere 1596 Your Excellencies humble Seruant Fynes Moryson The Letters sent me in answere thus follow To the noble Gentlemen Master Fynes Moryson deare to vs as a brother NOble Sir deare to vs in place of a Brother By your Letters dated the fiue and twenty of this moneth after the new stile and directed to the Illustrious Lord Generall and by his Excellency sent to our Office we haue vnderstood your request and desirous to fauour you in this occasion with due respect to the publike health we haue sent you two Horsemen who shall guide you and your seruant hither where you shall be curteously receiued and shall not want the opportunity of a Barke to finish your iourney after we haue taken due order according to our Office for the preseruing of the publike health Therefore without conuersing with any man follow these guides wee haue sent you and come hither with a cheerefull heart as to Christians and friends But faile not to follow the order which we haue giuen to these guides whereof we doubt not and so tender our selues to you From Candia the twenty of October after the old stile in the yeere 1596 Bring with you the testimony of your health Yours in place of brethren the Prouisors for health This testimoniall aboue mentioned I tooke from the Venetian Consull who knew my disease free from all infection when I parted from Alexandretta fore knowing the necessity thereof The foresaid two horsemen being arriued which with great curtesie were sent to conduct me I parted from the Monastery to goe in their company to the City of Candia eight thirty miles distant being to passe almost the whole bredth of this Kingdome in the very middle part thereof The bredth of the Iland containes fiue and forty miles the length two hundred and thirty miles and the circuit as Ortelius writes fiue hundred twenty others say six hundred or seuen hundred miles the ancient and moderne writers reckoning diuersly This Iland is distant from the Cape of Otranto in Italy fiue hundred miles others write fiue hundred and thirty From Alexandria in AEgypt foure hundred and fifty miles others write fiue hundred from the next shoare of Affricke two hundred and fifty miles from Ioppa in Palestine six hundred and sixty miles others write six hundred and forty from Tripoli in Syria seuen hundred miles from the Iland Cyprus foure hundred miles from Venice 1500 miles and from Constantinople seuen hundred and twenty miles We beganne our iourney in the afternoone and as we rode our guide shewed vs not farre out of the high way the Monument famous for the loue of the Kings daughter Ariadne to Thesius called the Laberinth of Crete for so Candia was called of old and Saturne the first King thereof begat Radamanthus Minos and Sarpedon of Europa the daughter of Agenor as they write Also our guides told vs that not far out of the way to the city Candia there was a monument of the caue of Minos which the Candians call the sepulcher of Iupiter but my former aduersities had taken from me my wōted desire to see antiquities so as we kept the high way and passing that day by a City of the Iewes lodged that night at a Village not in any Inne but in the very Church vpon straw and our owne bedding being content with such victuals as our guides brought vs namely cheese fruites and good wine It is probable that if we had had free conuersation we might perhaps haue found good lodging in the Village yet did we iustly doubt thereof because we could buy no better meate nor get any prouender for our beasts The next day in the morning we set forward and came to a pleasant village where we dined in a faire Church but could get no meat for our horses except they would haue eaten pomegranates or like fruits The same day in the afternoone we came to the City of Candia where we staied at the gate till we knew the pleasure of the Prouisors for health They could not be ignorant that our sickenesse was free from all infection yet imagining as after I perceiued that we should be Merchants haue some rich lewels they sent vs to the Lazaretto where in a weekes space when their spies according to their manner had inquired after our state and found that there was no hope of gaine by our imaginary lewels and it then falling out that other Merchants being landed with goods were to be lodged in our chamber at last the Generall Sig r Nicolao Donato called Generall for his commanding in the warre and Prouisor of health by the said Office and chiefe inquisitor for Religion which Office is sparingly executed in the State of Venice yet being not the chiefe Commander of the Iland for Il Sig r Marc ' Antonio Venerio was then Liefetenant to the Duke of Venice in this Iland with limited authority as the Duke himselfe hath I say this generall Prouisour for the health sent vnto vs a Gentleman of that office Il Sig r Vicenzo Cornaero who vsed vs nobly and curteously and the Scriuano that is Clerke or Secretary of that office called Il Sig r Giouanni Papadapolo with authority to giue vs free conuersation These Gentlemen according to the custome such as the state of no passenger can be hidden from them caused ropes to be hanged acrosse our chamber and all things we had yea our very shirts to be seuerally taken out and hanged thereupon and so perfumed them with brimstone to our great anoyance though they well knew we had no infectious sicknesse which done they gaue vs freedome to goe into the City and wheresoeuer we would To the Scriuano I gaue a zechine desiring him to
Iuly in the yeere 1597 our hearts beingfull of ioy that our mercifull God had safely brought vs thither This early hower of the morning being vnfit to trouble my friends I went to the Cocke an Inne of Aldersgate streete and there apparrelled as I was laid me downe vpon a bed where it happened that the Constable and watchmen either being more busie in their office then need was or hauing extraordinary charge to search vpon some foraine intelligence and seeing me apparrelled like an Italian tooke me for a Iesuit or Priest according to their ignorance for the crafty Priests would neuer haue worne such clothes as I then did But after some few howers when I awaked and while I washed my hands did inquire after my friends health dwelling in the same streete the Host of the house knowing me dismissed the watchmen that say to apprehend me and told me how I had been thus mistaken CHAP. V Of the iourney through England Scotland and Ireland HE that desires to see the Cities and Antiquities of England Scotland and Ireland let him reade the Chapter of the vsuall manner of all kingdomes to iourney and to hire Coches and horses and also the Chapter wherein these Kingdomes are Geographically described out of Camden or if he list rather let him reade Camden himselfe of this point and lastly let him in the same last named Chapter peruse the diet of these Kingdomes and the entertainement in Innes Touching the distances of places by miles first for England he shall easily find a little printed booke particularly setting downe the same For Scotland I will briefely set downe my iourney therein And for Ireland the Cities being rare and farre distant hee must haue a guide who may without great trouble inquire them out Onely giue me leaue for the helpe of strangers to adde this one thing namely how they being curious to search antiquities and loth to omit the light of things worthy of obseruation may to this purpose best dispose of their iournies which all other men may fit to their endes and purposes First let them passe out of Normandy to Rhye an English Hauen in Sussex then let them visit such of the fiue Kentish Ports as they please let them see Cânterbury famous for the Seate of the Metropolitan Archbishop then the Castle of Qüinborrough in the Iland of Shoppey and the Regall Nauy then let them passe by Rochester a Bishops Seate the Regall Pallace at Greenewich and Depford the Nauall storehouse and not farre thence see the broken ribbes of the ship wherein famous Sir Francis Drake compassed the World and so let them come to London When they haue viewed the Monuments of London and Westminster and seene the Kings Court they may take a cursory iourney to view such antiquities in Middlesex Surry and Barkshire as vpon the reading of Camden they shall most desire to see and especially all or the chiefe Pallaces of the King Againe from London they may take a cursory iourney to see the Vniuersity of Oxford and so by Worcester returne to London In their iourney to the confines of England and Scotland they may see the Vniuersitie of Cambridge and view the most choise antiquities mentioned by Master Camden in Harfordshire Northamptonshire Lincolnsheire Yorkeshire Durham and Northumberland My selfe vpon occasion of businesse in the month of Aprill and the yeere 1598 tooke a iourney to these said confines namely to Barwick a Towne then very strongly fortified by the English to restraine the sudden incursions of the Scots and abounding with all things necessary for food yea with many dainties as Salmons and all kindes of shell-fish so plentifully as they were sold for very small prices And here I found that for the lending of sixtie pound there wanted not good Citizens who would giue the lender a faire chamber and good dyet as long as he would lend them the mony Being to returne from Barwicke I had an earnest desire first to see the King of Scots Court So from hence I rode in one day fortie miles to Edenborrow the chiefe Citie of that Kingdome And in this said daies iourney after foure miles riding I came to Aton a Village where the Lord of Hames dwelles whose Family was powerfull in those parts After sixteene miles more I came to Dunbar which they said to haue been of old a Towne of some importance but then it lay ruined and seemed of little moment as well for the pouertie as the small number of inhabitants After the riding of eight miles more on the left hand towards the West and something out of the high way the pleasant Village Hadrington lay which the English in the raigne of Queene Elizabeth tooke and kept against the French who drawne ouer in the time of faction kept the Towne of Dunbar and fortified the same When I had ridden fiue miles further I came to the ancient and according to the building of that Kingdome stately Pallace of the L. Seton beautified with faire Orchards and Gardens and for that clime pleasant Not farre thence lyes the Village Preston-graung belonging to the Family of the Cars powerfull from these parts to the very borders of England within land After I had ridden three miles more I came to the Village Fisherawe neere which beyond a Brooke lyes the Village Musselborow in a stony soyle famous for a great Victorie of the English against the Scots On the left hand towards the West and something out of the high way the Queene of Scots then kept her Court in the absence of the King at the Village Dawkeith in a Pallace belonging to the Earle of Murray From the said Village Fishrawe I rode the rest of the way being foure miles and so in one dayes iourney as I said came to Edenborow seated in Lodouey of old called Fictland the most ciuill Region of Scotland being hilly and fruitfull of corne but hauing little or no wood This City is the seat of the King of Scotland and the Courts of Iustice are held in the same Of old according to the changeable fortune of warre it was sometimes in the possession of the Scots sometimes of the English inhabiting this Easterne part of Scotland till the English Kingdome being shaken with the inuasions of the Danes at last about the yeere 960. it became wholly in the power of the Scots This City is high seated in a fruitfull soyle and wholsome aire and is adorned with many Noblemens Towers lying about it and aboundeth with many springs of sweet waters At the end towards the East is the Kings Pallace ioyning to the Monastery of the Holy Crosse which King Dauid the first built ouer which in a Parke of Hares Conies and Deare an high mountaine hangs called the chaire of Arthur of Arthur the Prince of the Britanes whose monuments famous among all Ballad-makers are for the most part to be found on these borders of England and Scotland From the Kings Pallace at the East the City still riseth
eight d. per diem Per annum one hundred ninety nine thousand seuen hundred fifteene li. sixteene s. eight d. Pensioners in the Muster-booke per annum one thousand eight hundred nine li. fifteene s. ten d. Pensioners by letters Patents per annum eight hundred seuenty foure li. fiue s. nine pence ob Thirteene Almesmen per annum eightie eight li. nineteene s. foure d. ob Officers of the Musters which are payable out of the checkes namely one Muster-Master at sixe s. eight d. a Comptroller at ten s. and twenty Commissaries each at three s. foure d. per diem Per annum one thousand fiue hundred twenty li. sixteene s. eight d. Extraordinarie allowance for Messengers Espials Post-barkes rewards of seruices c. per annum sixe thousand li. Totall of this Establishment per annum two hundred fifty fiue thousand seuen hundred seuenty three li. fourteene d. qu. denny Memorandum that the dead paies allowed to the Captaines in each Company of horse or foote are herein contained but the charge of munition of leuying horse and foote for reinforcing the Army with many like charges are not herein contained The sixth of Aprill 1601 his Lordship receiued aduertisement from Captaine Io sias Badley at the Nowry that he and Captaine Edward Blony Gouernour of the Forte of Mount-Norreys purposing to surprise Loghrorcan could not carrie a boat which they had prouided to that purpose but he carrying certaine fireworkes prouided in case the boat should faile went to the Fort and ioyning with Captaine Blany marched towards that Iland where they arriued by eight of the clocke in the morning and leaning their forces behind a Wood they both went together to discouer the Iland which done Captaine Bodley made readie thirtie arrowes with wildfier and so they both fell downe with one hundred shot close to the water where the shot playing incessantly vpon the Iland while the other deliuered their arrowes suddenly the houses fired and burnt so vehemently as the rebels lodging there forsooke the Iland and swumme to the further shoare That after they 〈◊〉 burnt to the ground they fired a great house vpon their side of the shoare and killed there sixe Kerne gaining their Armes besides Churles and Calliachs and after the burning of other houses also they brought away some Cowes and Sheepe with other pillage and they vnderstood by a prisoner that there were about thirty persons in the Iland whereof onely eight swumme away of which foure were shot in the water so as the rest either were killed or lay hurt in the Iland Likewise they vnderstood by the said prisoner that great store of butter corne meale and powder was burnt and spoiled in the Iland which all the rebels of that Countrey made their magasine Further that some forty kerne skirmished with them at places of aduantage in their retreat for two miles march but howsoeuer the common opinion was that the Rebels sustained great losse by this seruice yet of the English onely two were slaine and seuen hurt The seuenth of Aprill Sir Henry Dockwra Gouernour of Loughfoyle wrote to his Lordship that he had taken the submission of Hugh Boy Boy of whose seruice to her Maiesty he was confident to make manifold good vses as well for the present setling Sir Iohn Odogherties Countrey after his late death as for reuealing the Rebels secret counsels wel knowne to him Among which he confidently anowed that the King of Spaine had promised to inuade Ireland this yeere with six thousand men to land at some Towne in Munster swearing that three of the chief Cities had promised to receiue them Adding that Florence Mac Carty had written to Odonnel that he had submitted to the Queene onely vpon necessity and that vpon the Spaniards comming hee would ioyne with them This Gouernour further aduertised that Phelim Oge chiefe of a contrary faction in Odogherties country desired to make his humble submission to the Queenes mercy vpon these conditions to leaue of the name of Odogherty and obey any man to whom her Maiesty should giue that Countrey To pay all debts his men did owe to any subiects To discharge his souldiers To returne to the owners twelue hundred Beeues hee had cut for Odonnell To make satisfaction for a Barke comming to the Liffer which his people had taken and spoiled And to yeeld vp to him the Gonernor all the cattle should be found in his Countrey belonging to Odonnell Adding that Sir Iohn Bolles in a iourney made vpon Ocane had killed fifty of his people had burned many houses and much corne And that the garrison of the Liffer had spoiled Tirconnel had slaine many had brought away two hundred Cowes and great booties The tenth of April Sir Oghy Ohanlon a northerne Lord submitted himselfe on his knees to her Maiesties mercy at Tredagh and signed certaine Articles for the performance whereof hee tooke his oath And because these Articles except there fell out some speciall reason to leaue out some of them and to adde others were the same to which all submitties at this time were tied I will once for all adde the briefe of them After his acknowledgement that Queene Elizabeth by the Grace of God Queene of England France and Ireland c. Is the true absolute and Soueraigne Lady of this realme of Ireland and of euery part of all the people therof with humble confession of his former disloyaltie and of his penitency and like profession that he had felt the waight of her Maiesties power This done further to the example of all other offenders he testified that hee made this his humble submission and protestation of his penitency his future loyalty and indeuour to redeeme his faults by his good seruices Then he acknowledged vnder his hand that now before the Lord Deputy and Counsell he taketh a corporall and religious oath for all and seuerall Articles following Namely That he will euer continue a loyall subiect That for performance thereof and of all the following Articles he will put in sufficient pledges That hee doth renounce all manner of obedience to any forraine power or Potentate depending only on the Queene his Soueraigne That hee renounceth all Rebels and will not aide them but serue against them when he is commanded That hee will to the vtter most of his power withstand and confound any disloyal subiect or forraine enemy attempting against the sacred person or estate of her Maiesty or the quietnes of her faithfull subiects more especially against the Arch-traytor Tyrone and the King of Spaine supporting him That hee will come to the State whensoeuer hee is commanded neither will vpon wrongs seeke to right himselfe but will seeke redresse by course of Law That he will reueale all conspiracies of treason which hee shall heare That he will sue out her Maiesties pardon within certaine dayes for him and his followers and answer for their good behauiour That hee will booke these followers within certaine dayes That he will suffer all
Lawes and obedience due to his Maiesty The foure twentieth day his Lordship was aduertised that the Citizens of Lymrick had with their Priests entred into all the Churches of the City and there erecting Altars had vsed the Rites of the Romish Church The 25. day his Lordship wrote this letter to the Citizens of Waterford YOur letters of the three and twentieth of this instant came this day to my hands And hauing duely considered the contents of the same I find that they returne a double excuse of the courses you haue vsed first for your delay of time to proclaime the Kings most Excellent Maiesty according to such directions as was sent vnto you from the Earle of Ormond by a Counsellor of this State And the next for such disorders as were reported to bee committed by the publike breach of his Highnesse Lawes in matters of Religion To the which We returne you this answer following First albeit We would haue wished that you had had a more carefull regard to haue performed such directions as you receiued from to Noble a Peere of this Realme by so reuerent a messenger as you might assure your selues in such a matter durst not abuse you his Highnesse sole and vndoubted right concurring also with your owne knowledge and consciences yet We will not condemne you for that omission of the time seeing afterwards you did obey our directions in that behalfe and gaue so publike a testimony of your ioyful allowance and consent to his Maiesties Right and lawfull title proclaimed amongst you But as in this part you haue giuen vnto vs a kinde of contentment so in the last point Wee cannot forbeare to let you vnderstand the Iust mislike We doe conceiue that you being Citizens of wisdome and good experience and the Lawes of the Realme continuing in force would be drawne either by your Priests or any like practises to commit any publike breach of the Lawes and the rather because out of that vnspotted duty which you professe you haue euer carried to the Crowne you would not in reason conceiue that the example of your offence in such a cause and in so great and populous a City could not but in it selfe be very dangerous in these disordered times wherein examples doe carry men astray which in discharge of Our duty to the Kings Highnesse Wee may not suffer And therefore haue resolued to make Our speedy repaire vnto those parts for none other purpose but to establish his Maiesties Lawes that no publike nor contemptious breach be made of them wherein We wish you had bin more wary contenting your selues with the long and fauourable tolleration you enioyed during the late Queens raigne rather then in this sort to haue prescribed Lawes to your selues whereby in wisdome you may perceiue how much you haue preiudiced the very obtaining of your owne desire by the courses you haue taken as we are credibly informed And yet because it may be that the reports of your behauiour haue beene made more hainous then there is cause Wee are well pleased to suspend Our giuing credit to such particular informations vntill vpon due examination the truth may appeare wherein We hope and shall be glad that you can acquit your selues so of these imputations now laid vpon you or otherwise that you conforme your selues now at last in such sort to the obedience you owe to his Maiesty and his Lawes as We be not inforced to take seuere notice of your contrary actions The same day his Lordship was aduertised from the Mayor of Galloway that howsoeuer he found no seditious inclination in the Citizens yet to preuent disorders in these mutinous times the Gouernor of the Fort had giuen him some of his souldiers to assist his authority whom he to that purpose had placed in the strongest Castles of the City The same day his Lordship receiued letters from the Mayor of Corke signifying that the thirteenth day of this moneth he had published in the City the Proclamation of the King with the greatest solemnity he could and complaining that the Souldiers in the Kings Fort offered many abuses to the Towne with offer from the Corporation to vndertake the safe keeping of that Fort for his Maiesty The 26 day his Lordship wrote to the Soueraigne of Wexford that whereas they excused their erecting of popish rites by the report they heard of his Maiesties being a Roman Catholike he could not but maruell at their simplicity to be seduced by lying Priests to such an opinion since it was apparant to the World that his Maiesty professed the true religion of the Gospell and euer with carefull sincerity maintained it in his Kingdome of Scotland charging him and those of Wexford vpon their Wexford to his Maiesty to desist from the disordered course they had taken in celebrating publikely the idolatrous Masse least hee at his comming vp into those parts should haue cause seuerely to punish their contempt shewed to his Maiesty and the lawes of his Kingdome The same day his Lordship was aduertised from the Commissioners of Mounst r that the Citizens of Corke grew daily more and more insolent defacing places of scripture written on the wals of the Church to the end they might wash and paint ouer the old Pictures and that one tearmed a Legat from the Pope with many Priests had gone in solemne procession hallowing the Church and singing Masse therein publikely the Townes-men hauing placed guards of armed men set at the Church dore and at the Porch yea burying their dead with all Papisticall Ceremonies and taking the Sacrament in like sort to spend their liues and goods in desence of the Romish Religion and thereupon taking boldnes to offer wrong to the English and to practice the getting of the Kings Fort into their hands yea refusing to sell any thing to the English for the new mixed money and not suffering the Kings victuals to be issued out of the store till they had assurance that the Souldiers should be sent out of the liberties of Corke The 27 day his Lordship wrote to the Soueraigne of Clemmell commending him and the rest of that City that they had proclaimed the King with great ioy and gladnesse but charging them vpon their vttermost perill to cease from the publike exercise of the Romish Religion which they of themselues had mutinously established The same day his Lordship wrote this following letter to the Soueraigne of Kilkenny AFter my hearty commendations I haue receiued your Letters of the 25 and 26 of this moneth and am glad to vnderstand thereby that you are somewhat conformable to my directions being willing to haue cause to interpret your actions to the best but though I meane not to search into your consciences yet I must needs take knowledge of the publike breach of his Maiesties Lawes and whereas you let me vnderstand that the Inhabitants are willing to withdraw themselues for their spirituall exercise to priuacy contented onely with the vse of the ruinous Abbey
further to command me by his letters signed with his Royall hands to cherish his good subiects and to suppresse the Rebellious the which difference of good and rebellions I am no otherwise to distinguish in you but by that obedience which I haue required and doe now require of you to his Maiesties Lawes and Royall pleasure And as in my duty to God and my King I should reioice to finde you in the number of those that I am bound to cherish and preserue So should I bee heartily sorry to finde you such as I must bee forced to correct or to ruine And although it be none of my purposes to enter into your consciences yet if the effects of your consciences be to disturbe the peace of this Kingdome to violate the Lawes thereof and by force to set vp your owne Religion It is my duty to vse the Kings power to suppresse such insolencies and therefore my purpose is to repaire my selfe to the Kings Citie whereof you are one of his Magistrates to see his peace and obedience maintained the which if both I and you and that Corporation doe not as our duty is intend we haue a King that is not onely able to call vs his poore seruants to an account but to reuenge the wrongs of the greatest Monarch of the World The same day his Lordship writ to the Maior of Corke this following letter AFter my heartie commendations I haue receiued two letters from you the one not signed with any hand the other signed by you the Maior and two of your Brethren and for the first concerning the stay you haue made of the Kings munition and Victuals I maruell greatly at your presumption to limit and take account what proportions the Commissioners authorised by his Maiesty thinke good to issue for his seruice and wish you in matters of so great consequence to be well aduised not doing any thing rashly nor consulting or deliberating after your fancies of things not belonging any way to your consideration but submitting your owne iudgements to be ruled by those placed in authoritie ouer you I meane Sir Charles Wilmot and Sir George Thorneton whose Commissions to gouerne that Prouince I haue lately by order from his Maiestie renewed For the answere of your second letter I referre my selfe to those I sent you by Master Mead which I thinke ere this time are come to your hands and as by them you shall more particularly perceiue so I assure you that I expect better satisfaction from you for the late insolent disorders committed or permitted by you in that Citie then by these I haue receiued charging you againe as formerly to desist from the violating of his Maiesties Lawes by publike celebration of the Masse set vp of your owne fancies without superiour authoritie In which if I finde you not conformable and obedient to my directions I must conceiue of your loyaltie and affection to his Maiesties seruice as I find by the effects testified in your publike actions and bee forced to take more seuere notice thereof then I willingly would in regard of the good opinion I haue heretofore had of your proceedings And for that point in your last letter touching the Fort of Halebolin whereof you desire to haue the keeping to the Kings vse I will deale plainely with you that since I find you so little able to gouerne the inhabitants of your Towne in due obedience to his Maiestie and his Lawes and so easily seduced by your Priests and Friers to the preiudice thereof and the hazard of your selues and haue alwaies found by experience the true integritie and forward resolution of the Kings souldiers to aduance his seruice till I shall see a better reformation of these your proceedings I must needes thinke them fitter then you to haue places of so great trust committed to their guard and custodie The same day his Lordship vnderstood by letters from the Maior of Corke that the Kings forces lying neere the Towne and their armed men of the Citie had proceeded to acts of hostilitie some hauing beene killed on both sides whereof they craued reliefe from his Lordship making their contumacy against the Commissioners authoritie a priuate quarrell to the person of one of them as being their enemie and seeking their vtter ruine Likewise the Bishop of Corke aduertised that a most seditious sermon was preached at Corke by a Popish Priest teaching that he could not be a lawfull King who was not placed by the Pope and sworne to maintaine the Roman Religion Also that one of his men going to the Port of the Towne was hurt by one of the guard who wished he had the Traytor his Master there with threats of death to him Lastly that the Citizens by resolution taken in a publike Counsell with their Priests had written to all the Townes and Cities to assist them in the defence of the Catholike faith and had not onely staied the Kings munition but laid it vp in their owne store-houses and imprisoned the clarke who kept it The third of May his Lordship being on the way towards Mounster was aduertised from Iustice Synot that the Citizens of Wexford had conformed themselues to his Lordships pleasure had redeliuered the Churches to the hands of the English Ministers The fourth of May his Lordship in camped at Gracedea neere the Citie of Waterford and summoned the Maior and his brethren to open their Ports and to receiue him and the Kings Forces The same day his Lordship wrote this following letter to the Maior of Corke For the dispatch of your messenger and not to omit any thing that heth in mee to make you vnderstand your dutifull obedience to his Maiesty and the great errors and insolent demenor you haue of selfe will or malice entred into I am content to write vnto you tho I know not well in what sort to write for by your courses I cannot take you for subiects and out of my desire to interpret your actions to the best I could wish not to haue cause to repute you Rebels To deale plainely with you for any thing that you selues informe or I can otherwise vnderstand I see not that Sir Charles Willmot hath done but as in his duty hee was tied to doe but I am presently drawing downe to the City of Corke and hauing reserued one care for any your iust complaints will iudge of your proceedings as I shall finde them I haue let you vnderstand my pleasure by my letters one sent by Master Meade which if hee haue not deliuered he is more to blame and I assure my selfe some of them came to your hands and in all I haue charged you vpon your alleagance as againe by these I do to desist from publike breach of his Maiesties Lawes in the celebration of the Masse prohibited by the same and to yeeld due obedience to his Magistrates and especially vpon your extreamest perils not to presume to make any stay of his Maiesties victualls and munition left vpon
Burgundians who in the Raigne of Charles the seuenth and in the yeere 1422 by a sudden conspiracy cast out and killed the Burgundians lying there in garrison and salted their dead bodies in a vessell of stone which they shew to this day They name three iurisdictions or commonalties which it seems of old had foolish and great priuiledges La Basoche de Paris Les Cornards de Rouen La Mere Folle de Dijon Of the Cities they say Paris la grande the Great Rouen la riche the Rich Orleans la belle the Faire Dijon la Folle the Foolish Anger 's basse ville hauts clochers riches putaines pounres Escoliers Low City high Steeples rich Whores poore Schollars They say vulgarly Les Badauts the Fooles or as we say Cocknies di Paris Les Cornards the foresaid society of horned Di Rouen Les Gue spins the word hath some reference to Vespae a Latin word signifying those that carry dead bodies to be buried by night but the French can hardly giue a true signification of it d'Orleans Les Copienx the copious for their art in ieasting de Flesche Les fanx tosmoings the false witnesses quatorze pour vn'fromage foureteene for a Cheese du Manz 〈◊〉 the nouices or simple men de Solongne qui s'abusent toussiours a leur profit which are abused alwaies to their owne profit as if vnder colour of simplicity they were most crafty Of three Cities of Champaigne Les Graniers the Garners as full of Corne de Challons Les Caues the Cellars as full of wine de Reims Les Bourses the Purses as full of money de Troyes They say vulgarly Ily a plue de Monmartre a Paris que de Paris a Monmartre This speech Ily a is ambiguous or of diuers significations vulgarly it should be thus vnderstood It is further from Monmartre to Paris then from Paris to Monmartre but in this place it is thus meant There is more of Monmartre within Paris then of Paris vpon Monmartre because almost all the Houses of Paris are plastered ouer and the matter of this plaster is daily brought into Paris from Monmartre Also A Monmartre Ily a plus de Putains que de vaches Mais ostes en les Nonnains Ily aura plus de vaches que de Putains At Monmartre there be more Whores then Cowes But take away the Nunnes and there will be more Cowes then Whores Also Fromages Cheeses d' Auuergne Angelots a kinde of Cheese de Brie Andouilles Intrals or Trypes de Troye Saueisses Sawsages du Pont l'Euesque Chapons Capons du Mans. Moutarde Mustard de Dijon Pruneaux Prunes de Tours Marrons great Chesnuts de Lyon Pain d'espice Spiced Bread de Reims Raues rape rootes de Limosin Pesches Peaches de Corheil pain Bread de Genesse The Italiaus say that the manner of the French is Di non dire quando vogliono fare di non legger ' come Scriuotio e di non santare come notano Not to speake that they will doe not to reade as they write not to sing as they pricke England in generall is said to be the Hell of Horses the Purgatory of Seruants and the Paradice of Weomen The Londiners pronounce woe to him that buyes a Horse in Smyth-field that takes a Seruant in Pauls-Church that marries a Wife out of Westminster Londiners and all within the sound of Bow-Bell are in reproch called Cocknies and eaters of buttered tostes The Kentish men of old were said to haue ray les because trafficking in the Low-Countries they neuer paid full payments of what they did owe but still left some part vnpaid Essex men are called calues because they abound there Lankashire egge-pies and to be wonne by an Apple with a red side Norsorlke wyles for crafty litigiousnes Essex stiles so many as make walking tedious Kentish miles of the length Northumberland men exercised in roades vpon the Scots are accounted best light Horsemen Cornish men best Horse riders and Wrastlers and most actiue men Lincolneshire Belles and Bag pipes Deuonshire Whitepots Tewksbery Mustard Banberry Cakes Kings-Norten Cheese Sheffeld kniues Darby Ale are prouerbially spoken of I hastily passed through part of Scotland bordering vpon England and had no skill in the Irish tongue so as I obserued no such Prouerbs in those Kingdomes The second Booke CHAP. I. Of the fit meanes to trauell and to hire Coaches and Horses HEreof I must intreate briefely and howsoeuer the subiect be large yet I wil compendiously restraine this my discourse praying him that desireth more plaine instruction in any particular to reade the following discourse in this third Part of these Nations diet in generall and expences in their Innes as also to gather particular obseruations for his vse out of my daily iournies related in the first Part. The greatest part of Germany is a plaine Countrie with few Hilles and almost no Mountaines but it is full of vast Woods and the soile is either sandy or for the most part drie and little subiect to durt so as they vse commonly Coaches for their iournies which are easily to be found in any City neither shall a passenger long stay for companions to fill vp the Coach so as by this constant manner of trauelling hee shall not be put to any extraordinary charge From Hamburg to Nurnberg being nine daies iourney I remember that sixe of vs in company hired a coach for fifty dollers That fiue of vs for two dayes iournies paid fiue dollers That foure of vs for three daies iorney payed seuen dollers for our Coach But in our iourney from Hamburg to Nurnberg we paied for our Coachmans diet himselfe paying for his horses meate whereas in the other iournies he paied also for his owne diet The ordinary Coaches hold sixe consorts but those of Nurnberg receiue eight bearing two in each boote on the sides But if companions bee not readily found to fill the Coach the passengers shall doe better in going forward with such company as they haue and the Coachmen will rather goe for lesse then stay in the Inne and spend more in expecting the full number The top of the Coaches is made with round hoopes couered with lether or for the most part with black cloath which are buckled together in the middest when it raines or the weather is cold for otherwise the hoopes fastned with staples of Iron to the body of the coach fall backward to the ends so as the passengers may sit in the open aire In lower Germany a passenger commonly payes about foure Lubeck shillings for each meale In middle Germany he shall pay about foure Batzen And in higher Germany he shall pay about sixe or seuen batzen each meale and all passengers sit at one common table At the foote of the Alpes where the fall of waters make the waies durty they vse to ride on horsebacke Sweitzerland consists of hilles and Mountaines so as they likewise trauell on horsebacke And there the passenger shall commonly pay some fiue or sixe batzen each meale The horses in both places are to bee
thereof considering due circumstances are to be much admired and preferred before any in the World Munster affirmeth that the Romans built in Germany beyond the Riuers Danow Rheine more stately Cities then are to be seene in other parts thereof But for my part I would say that Nurnberg Dresden Brestawe the chiefe City of Silesia and the Cities vpon the Sea Coast towards the North called Hans stetten that is free Cities are much fairer and farre more magnificently built then those that he nameth The Cities within land excepting Ertford those of Hessen and some like which are built of timber clay and plaster or of durt and couered with tiles of wood are built of great polished and carued free stones foure or fiue stories high with an high roofe bearing windowes and couered with tiles Some of the foresaid Cities on the Sea Coast are built of free stone but for the most part of bricke and in the lower fore roome being commonly large they haue great dores like gates towards the streetes which being open by day expose to the eies of passengers the bright puter dishes and other like vessels of tin and brasse which vse to be set forth in the vpper end of that roome And not onely the priuate houses but the publike streetes are notable for clenlinesse vniformity and beauty The houses and buildings vpon the Alpes excepting some few Cities which are equall to the foresaid built within land as Insprucke lying in the way betweene Augsburg and Padoua are built much lower most commonly of freestone and couered with tiles of wood and for three parts of the yeere they are continually couered with snow and as through all Germany the casements of the windowes are little so in these parts they are much lesse so as a man can hardly put his head out of them and the windowes on the Inside are all to be shut close with woodden windowes they vsing all possible art to keepe the cold out and to retaine the heat of the stoaues within Noblemens Castles in Germany are for the most part answerable to the building of the Cities within Land but they shew more antiquity and are more built for strength then beauty And the more stately Pallaces of Cities and these Castles in some places as my selfe obserued at Augsburg but very rarely are couered with copper which Germany yeeldeth but neuer with leade whereof they haue none of their owne The building of houses in the Townes is for matter like to that of the Cities but lower and the Villages for the most part are built of timber clay and plaster or durt and couered with tiles of wood or the worst of them with straw In generall at the most frequented dores of euery house they haue ropes that men without by the ringing of a bell may be let in and those within may open the dores by the pulling of a roape without going to them and the dores likewise by waights are made to shut of themselues at the heeles of him that comes in without the helpe of any hand The windowes in generall are of a thicke glasse with little casements closed in wood not in iron which they seldome open that the stoaues may be kept warme To conclude Germany yeelds to no place in the World for the number or stately building of Cities yet so as respecting the greatnesse thereof it hath not so frequent and little distant Cities as Netherland and other lesse Dominions haue Among the Cities of Sweitzerland the building of Bern is most vniforme and faire being of freestone with arched Cloysters towards the streete as in some parts of Italy vnder which men walke drie footed after the greatest raine but most of the Cities as of the Townes and Villages are fairely built with timber clay and plaster and commonly are seated on the declining sides of Mountaines and hils Of the last sort are the houses of Boemerland saue that the wals and foundations are made of whole bodies of trees as they are cut downe euen couered with the bark and ioined together with clay and morter And these houses are generally couered with tiles of wood not with slates In the vnited Prouinces the houses are most of bricke aswell in Cities as in Villages and so vniforme as if they had all beene built at a time and by the same workemen The fronts of them towards the streetes are commonly narrow excepting some few that are broade and high and so are built inward in length with narrow windowes and nothing at all cast out from the wals and the roofes haue windowes for vse of the roomes being couered with tiles or peeces of wood in the same forme At Leyden and Delph the houses are built very high of many stories and the roofes are steepe and haue also windowes for vse At the Hage being a most pleasant Village where the States keepe their residence the building is like but the Castle in which Count Maurice dwelt and some few Gentlemens houses are built of freestone and in some outlanes many houses are couered with straw The wares of Merchants the vessels of tinne and brasse being kept most cleane and like ornaments lie open in the lowest and greatest roome by large dores to passengers view as I formerly said of the Cities on the Sea coast of Germany They build with very slender timber so as the new built threaten falling and vpon little force totter and shake The floares are paued with plaster boards being more costly and apt to take fire And these floares are daily cast ouer with sand to keepe them from durt onely by sweeping away the sand at night In the Kingdome of Denmarke there is onely one Citie compassed with walles called Kopenhagen in which as in the other little Cities Townss and Villages the houses of the Citizens are for the most part of timber clay and plaster seldome of freestone The Kings Castle there is built of free stone but with no magnificence His second Castle at Elsenure is very stately built of freestone and also strongly fortified to command one side of the straight sea where great tribute is exacted of all ships entring or going out of the Sound In Poland there be but few Cities for so large a Kingdome but the houses of them are built of free stone much like to the Inland Cities of Germany saue that in some places the houses are arched towards the streete like the Cloysters of Monasteries Some of the houses in the Villages are of timber clay and plaster but the greatest part of meere durt and couered with straw Few of the Noble mens houses are of free stone but the greater part of timber clay and plaster The Italians are exceeding rich in their owne commodities and by trafficke which the Gentlemen and Princes scorne not to vse and they spending little in house-keeping or apparrell all their pride is to build stately houses water Counduits Fountaines and to haue rich Iewels
other Cities is commonly of timber clay and plaster sometimes of freestone and foure or fiue roofes high whereof each as it is higher so is more proiected into the streete much darkening the same and causing the raine to fall into the middest thereof The streetes are no broader then for two Carts to meete and passe one by the other Almost vnder euery house is a Cellar to lay vp wine Perry Cyder and alll kinds of drinke and few of the windowes are glazed which are also darkened with grates of wood the rest are altogether open to be shut by night with windowes of wood The building of the Villages is like ours in England commonly of timber and clay and thatched ouer The Gentlemens houses are built like those in the Cities whereof I haue spoken but the Pallaces of great Lords for the most part are stately built of free stone yet more beautifull and stately are the Kings Pallaces commonly of free stone curiously carued with pillers of marble and sometimes of brickes with pecces of marble in the parts most open to the eye Among these Pallaces of the King that of Fontainebleau is the most stately and magnificent that I did see and most pleasant for the gardens and sweete Aire Caesar in his Commentaries saith that buildings of England were then like those of France Now at London the houses of the Citizens especially in the chiefe streetes are very narrow in the front towards the streete but are built fiue or sixe roofes high commonly of timber and clay with plaster and are very neate and ommodious within And the building of Citizens houses in other Cities is not much vnlike this But withall vnderstand that in London many stately Pallaces built by Noblemen vppon the Riuer Thames doe make a very great shew to them that passe by water and that there be many more like Pallaces also built towards Land but scattered and great part of them in backe lanes and streetes which if they were ioined to the first in good order as other Cities are built vniformely they would make not onely faire streetes but euen a beautifull City to which few might iustly be preferred for the magnificence of the building Besides that the Aldermens and chiefe Citizens houses howsoeuer they are stately for building yet being built all inward that the whole roome towards the streets may be reserued for shoppes of Tradesmen make no shew outwardly so as in truth all the magnificence of London building is hidden from the view of strangers at the first sight till they haue more particular view thereof by long abode there and then they will preferre the buildings of this famous City to many that appeare more stately at the first sight Great part of the Townes and Villages are built like the Citizens houses in London saue that they are not so many stories high nor so narrow in the front towards the streete Others of them are built in like sort of vnpolished small stones and some of the Villages in Lincolneshire and some other Countries are of meere clay and couered with thatch yet euen these houses are more commodious within for clenlinesse lodging and diet then any stranger would thinke them to be Most of the houses in Cities and Townes haue Cellers vnder them where for coolenesse they lay Beere and Wine Gentlemens houses for the most part are built like those in the Cities but very many of Gentlemens and Noblemens Pallaces aswell neere London as in other Countries are stately built of bricke and free stone whereof many yeelde not in magnificence to like buildings of other Kingdomes as Homby built by S r Christopher Hatton Tybals lately belonging to the Earle of Salisbury seated neere London the Earle of Exceter his house neer Stamford by which Pallaces lying neere the high way a stranger may iudge of many other like stately buildings in other parts The Kings Pallaces are of such magnificent building so curious art and such pleasure and beauty for gardens and fountaines and are so many in number as England need not enuie any other Kingdome therein Among them being manie a stranger may see neere London the King Pallaces of Hampton Court of Richmond of Greenewich of Nonsuch of Otelands of Schene of Winsore and in London the Pallace of White Hall In Scotland the Citie Edenborough is fairlie built of vnpolished stone but the galleries of timber built vpon the fronts of the houses doe rather obscure then adorne them And the Kings Pallace at one end and the fortified Castle at the other end of the City are more statelie built then the rest but all the beautie of the Citie confirsts of one large streete the by lanes being few and full of beggery The houses in Villages and scattered in the Countrie are like to those in England but the Gentlemens and Noblemens houses are nothing so frequent nor so stately built as the better sort of the English Neither are their I ownes and Cities in number building or pleasantnesse comparable to those in England Lastly the Villages of clay couered with straw are much more frequent then in England and farre lesse commodious within Among the Kings Pallaces that at Edenburg and that of Sterling for the building and Fawkland for the pleasure of hunting are the chiefe The houses of the Irish Cities as Corke Galoway and Lymrick the fairest of them for building are of vnwrought free stone or flint or vnpolished stones built some two stories high and couered with tile The houses of Dublin and Waterford are for the most part of timber clay and plaster yet are the streetes beautifull and the houses commodious within euen among the Irish if you pardon them a little slouenlinesse proper to the Nation In generall the houses very seldome keepe out raine the timber being not well seasoned and the walles being generally combined with clay only not with morter of lime tempered The Irish haue some quarries of Marble but only some few Lords and Gentlemen bestow the cost to polish it Many Gentlemen haue Castles built of free stone vnpolished and of flints or little stones and they are built strong for defence in times of rebellion for which cause they haue narrow staires and little windowes and commonly they haue a spatious hall ioyning to the Castle and built of timber and clay wherein they eate with their Family Neither are many of these gentle mens houses void of filth and slouenlinesse For other Irish dwellings it may be said of them as Caesar said of the old Brittanes houses They call it a Towne when they haue compassed a skirt of wood with trees cut downe whether they may retire themselues and their cattle For the meere barbarous Irish either sleepe vnder the canopy of heauen or in cabbines watled and couered with turfe The Germans long inioying settled peace the French and the Nitherlanders for many yeeres distracted with warres haue many Cities strongly fortified with ditches and earthen walles
very deepe and couers all the ground for nine moneths of the yeere yet notwithstanding the vallyes and discents of them lying open to the South Sunne and taking life from the heate thereof are very fruitfull Lastly in generall through all Germany the aboundance of Lakes and Mountaines doth increase this cold of the aire in diuers places except they bee something defended from the same by Woods adioyning and in some places as namely at Heidelberg where the Cities are almost fully inclosed with Mountaines the cold windes in Winter doe more ragingly breake in on that side the Mountaines lve open the more they are restrained and resisted on the other sides As likewise by accident the Sunne beames in Summer reflecting against those Mountaines though in a cold Region are so violently hot as the Cities at that time are much annoyed with multitudes of flies which not onely vex men but so trouble the horses as they are forced to couer them with cloathes from this annoyance The foresaid intemperatenesse of cold pressing great part of Germany in stead of fier they vse hot stoues for remedie thereof which are certaine chambers or roomes hauing an earthen ouen cast into them which may be heated with a little quantity of wood so as it will make them hot who come out of the cold and incline them to swetting if they come neare the ouen And as well to keepe out cold as to retaine the heate they keepe the dores and windowes closely shut so as they vsing not only to receiue Gentlemen into these stoues but euen to permit rammish clownes to stand by the ouen till their wet clothes be dried and themselues sweat yea to indure their little children to sit vpon their close stooles and ease themselues within this close and hot stoue let the Reader pardon my rude speech as I bore with the bad smell it must needes be that these ill smelles neuer purged by the admitting of any fresh ayre should dull the braine and almost choke the spirits of those who frequent the stoues When my selfe first entred into one of them this vnwonted heate did so winde about my legges as if a Snake had twined about them and made my head dull and heauy but after I had vsed them custome became another nature for I neuer inioyed my health in any place better then there This intemperatenesse of cold is the cause that a Lawrell tree is hardly to be found in Germany and that in the lower parts towards Lubeck they keepe Rosemary within the house in eartherne pitchers filled with earth as other where men preserue the choice fruits of the South yet can they not keep this Rosemary when it prospers best aboue three yeeres from withering For this cause also they haue no Italian fruits in Germany onely at Prage I did see some few Orange trees preserued in pitchers full of earth by setting them fourth in the heate of the Summer dayes and after drawing them into houses where they were cherished by artificiall heate And the like fruits I did see at Heidelberg in the Pallatine Electors Garden growing open in Summer but in winter a house being built ouer them with an ouen like a stoue and yet these trees yeelded not any ripe fruit when as at London and many parts of England more Northerly then those parts of Germany we haue Muske Mellons and plenty of Abricots growing in Gardens which for quantitie and goodnesse are not much inferiour to the fruits in Italy Also this cold is the cause that in Misen where they plant vines and in the highest parts of Germany on this side the Alpes where they make wine thereof the Grapes and the wine are exceeding sower Onely the wines vpon Neccar and those vpon the West side of the Rheine are in their kinds good but harsh and of little heate in the stomacke The cherries called Zawerkersen are reasonable great but sower And the other kind called Wildkersen is little and sweete but hath a blacke iuyce vnpleasing to the taste They haue little store of peares or apples and those they haue are little and of small pleasantnesse onely the Muskadel peare is very delicate especially when it is dried And the Germans make good vse of those fruits they haue not so much for pleasure when they are greene as for furnishing the table in Winter For their Peares and Apples they pare them and drie them vnder the Ouen of the stoue and then dresse them very fauorly with Cynamon and Butter In like sort they long preserue their cheries drie without sugar and the greater part of their cheries they boyle in a brasse cauldron full of holes in the bottome out of which the iuce falles into another vessell which being kept growes like marmalade and makes a delicate sauce for all roasted meates and will last very long as they vse it The Italians haue a Prouerb Dio da i panni secondo i freddi that is God giues cloathes according to the colds as to the cold Muscouites hee hath giuen futtes to the English wooll for cloth to the French diuers light stuffes and to Southerlie people stoore of silkes that all Nations abounding in some things and wanting others might be taught that they haue neede of one anothers helpe and so be stirred vp to mutuall loue which God hath thus planted betweene mankind by mutuall trafficke For this must be vnderstood not onely of clother but also of all other things necessary for human life Germany doth abound with many things necessary for life and many commodities to be transported For great Cities and Cities within land of which Germany hath store those argue plenty of commodities to bee transported and these plenty of foode to nourish much people And since that paradox of Cicero is most true that small causes of expence rather then great reuenues make men rich surely by this reason the Germans should bee most rich They neuer play at Dice seldome at Cardes and that for small wagers They seldome feast and sparingly needing no sumptuary Law es to restraine the number or costlinesse of dishes or sawces They are apparrelled with homely stuffes and weare their clothes to the vttermost of their lasting their houshold stuffe is poore in gifts they are most sparing and onely are prodigall in expences for drinking with which a man may sooner burst then spend his patrimony They haue Corne sufficient for their vse and the Merchants in the Cities vpon the sea coast export Corne into Spaine aswell of their owne as especially of that they buy at Dantzke They want not Cattle of all kinds but they are commonlie leane and little so are their horses many in number and little in stature onely in Bohemia they haue goodly horses or at least great and heauy like those in Freeseland but I remember not to haue seene much cattle or great heards thereof in the fields of any Towne the reason whereof may be gathered out of the following discourse of the Germans
kind one sort called Dyaper wrought in Misen and bombast or cotton Into Spaine they export linnen cloth wax brasse copper cordage Masts for shippes gun-powder bombast or cotton and Nurnberg wares so they call small wares Againe they receiue all kinds of silkes from Italy whereof they vse little quantity for their owne apparrell but send great store ouer land to those Cities on the Sea-coast where the English Merchants reside to be sold vnto them For the English Merchants had their Staple first at Emden the Count whereof vsed them well yet in the warre betweene England and Spaine this place grew dangerous for them for the enemie often tooke their goods and made them prisoners at the very mouth of the Harbour Whereupon they remoued to Hamburg where being oppressed with new impositions and being denied the publike exercise of their Religion they went from thence and settled their Staple at Stoade In like sort the English Merchants trading for Poland and those parts first had their Staple at Dantzk in Prussen by Staple I meane their residence in a City giuing them priuiledge to stop any forraigne wares intended to be carried further and to force the Merchant to sell them there except hee had rather returne with them to the place from whence hee came But when the Dantzkers vnder pretence of the Sueuian warre exacted of them a doller for each woollen cloath and asmuch for a last of any other goods and after when the warre was ended would remit nothing of this imposition And further when they forbad the English by a Law to dwell in Poland the commodities whereof were onely sold there left they should learne the language and find the mysteries of the trade And lastly when they exacted as much weekely of an Englishman dwelling in the City as they did of a Iew dwelling there The English made agreement with the Senate of Meluin for eleuen yeeres to pay them sixe grosh for each cloth or other last of goods and to pay as much more in the Citie Kettle to the Duke of Prussen for his giuing them free passage to Meluin and so they settled their Staple there Wherupon the Dantzkers being offended with the Citizens of Meluin and the Hamburgers no lesse with those of Stoade procured the free Cities by a publike writing to outlaw not onely Meluin and Stoade for receiuing the English to the common preiudice of the rest but also Koingsperg the seate of the Duke of Prussen and the free Citie Lubeck for fauouring the English in this course and permitting them being strangers to sell their goods to any other then the Citizens of each seuerall Citie But I will returne to the trafficke of Germany I formerly said that the Germans receiued all kindes of silke stuffes from Italy From the English they receiue woollen clothes lead and such like things From Spaine they bring in their owne ships wine fruites oyle salt wooll and more commonly coined siluer And because the trade of Prussen a German Prouince but lately annexed to Poland is of great importance with all strangers I will adde this that the English bring thither great quantitie of tynne and woollen cloathes with copper and like things And that they bring from thence Pitch liquid Pitch Hempe Flaxe Cables Masts for shippes boards and timber for building Linnen cloates Wax minerall Salt which in Poland they dig out of pirs like great stones and the same being put to the fire is made pure and being blacke his colour is more durable and lesse subiect to giuing againe then our boiled salt Also they bring from thence pine ashes for making of Soape and great quantity of Corne. Yet the English seldome haue neede of their Corne for the vse of England which many times of their owne they transport to other Nations but they buy it as the free Cities doe to transport it to others and the Low-Countrey men buy it as well for themselues as to serue Spaine therewith so as great quantity thereof is distracted into all parts of Europe The Amber that is brought from these parts is not gathered at Meluin or Dantzke but on the sea side of Konigsperg where the Duke of Prussen holds his Court and all along the Coast of Curland where howsoeuer it lies in great quantity scattered on the sand of the Sea yet is it as safe as if it were in warehouses since it is death to take away the least peece thereof When it is first gathered it is all couered ouer with drosse but after it is polished becomes transparantly bright At Dantzke I did see two polished peeces thereof which were esteemed at a great price one including a frogge with each part cleerely to be seene for which the King of Poland then beiyg there offered fiue hundred dollers the other including a newt but not so transparant as the former Some thinke this Amber to be a gumme distilling from trees and by these peeces falling vpon frogges and like things this opinion should seeme true but those trees from which they hold this Amber to distill abound in Germany yet Amber is onely found vpon this Coast of the Balticke Sea Others thinke rather that Amber is generated by the Sea and it is most certaine that Marriners sounding farre from the Land often find sand of Amber sticking to their plummets whereof my selfe was an eye witnesse And Munster holds them to be deceiued who thinke Amber to be a gumme distilling from trees and because it is fat and burnes being put to the fier concludes it to be a fat clay or bituminous matter affirming that it is not onely found vpon the Sea Coast but often caught at Sea in nets and he adds that being liquid it often fals vpon and includes little beasts which growe with it to the hardnes of stone and that it smels of mirh The diet of the Germans is simple and very modest if you set aside their intemperate drinking For as they are nothing sumptuous but rather sparing in their apparell and houshold stuffe so they are content with a morsell of flesh and bread so they haue store of drinke and want not wood to keepe their stoaues warme And in generall since they affect not forraigne commodities but are content with their own commodities and are singular as well in the Art as industry of making manuall workes they easily draw to them and retaine with them forraigne Coynes The free Cities vse to haue alwaies a yeeres prouision of victuals laid vp in publike houses to serue for homely food for the people in case the City should happen to be besieged They commonly serue to the Table sower Cabbages which they call Crawt and beere or wine for a dainty boyled with bread which they call Swoope In vpper Germany they moreouer giue veale or beefe in little quantities but in lower Germany they supply the meale with bacon and great dried puddings which puddings are sauory and so pleasant as in their kind of mirth they wish prouerbially for
it aboundeth with Wood but towards the Sea they burne Turfe made of earth and also burne Cow dung 3 The County of Hanaw hath the Principality of Arscot vnited to the Dukedome of Brabant by which the Dukes sonne hath the title of Prince The chiefe Cities of this County are Mons and Valinciennes It hath mines yeelding Leade and Marble of many colours and a good kind of Coales 4 The County of Zeland is by situation the first of the Vnited Prouinces consisting of many Ilands whereof seuen are principall and the chiefe is Walcherne the chiefe Citie whereof is Midleburg famous for trafficke and the Staple for Spanish and French Wines Neere that is the City Vlishing strongly fortified being the chiefe of the Forts then ingaged to the Crowne of England and kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of Sir Robert Sidney Knight for the second Fort ingaged to England lyes in another Iland and is called Brill being then kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of the Lord Barrows All these Ilands are fertile and yeeld excellent Corne more plentifully then any other Prouince so as one aker thereof is said to yeeld double to an aker of Brabant But they haue no sweete water nor good aire and for want of wood burne turffe They take plenty of sea-fishes which they Salt and carry into other Countries Madder for dying of wooll growes there plentifully which likewise they export and grow rich by selling these commodities as likewise Spanish and French Salt and like trafficke 5 The County of Holland called of old Battauia and inhabited by the Chatti as Tacitus writes is in situation the second of the vnited Prouinces but the first in dignity The Cities whereof are Amstelrodam famous for trafficke Rhoterodam where Erasmus was borne Leyden an Vniuersity Harlem Dort the staple for the Rhenish Wines and Delph all very faire Cities And I may not omit the most pleasant Village of the Hage called Grauenhage because the Counts Court was there and it is now the seate of the vnited States wanting onely wals to make it numbred among the most pleasant Cities being no doubt a Village yeelding to none for the pleasant seat This Prouince doth so abound with lakes pooles of water and artificiall ditches as it giues passage by water as well as by land to euery City and poorest Village which are infinite in number And these ditches itoweth for the most part to the Riuer Rheine For the Rheine of old running towards Leyden did fall a little below it into the Sea but at this day by reason the Land is low and subiect to ouerflowings it hath changed the bed and at Lobecum in the Dukedome of Cleue deuides it selfe into many branches The first runnes to Arnheim a City of Gelderland then to Vaua Rena and Battouodurum where Lecca receiues his waters and takes away the name from the Rheine yet so as a little branch thereof still holds the name of Rheine which running to Mastricht there deuides into two one whereof fals into Vecta and so into an arme of the Sea neere Munda the other runnes by Woerden and after a long course necre Leyden is deuided into fiue little branches whereof three fall into a lake and the fourth turnes to Renoburg and leeseth it selfe in mountaines of sand neere the Village Catwicke I remember that the water falling through Leyden is called Rheine so as I thinke it probable that all the standing waters lying betweene the seuerall pastures there come from the Rheine after it hath lost the name I said that the Rheine at Battouodurum is called Lecca which runnes to Culenburg and to Viana where in a ditch is the fountaine of Isala which runnes to 〈◊〉 Thus to omit the little branch at Battouodurum the first branch of the Rheine is lost in the Riuers Lecca and Isala The second branch bends from Lobecum to Neomagum and fals into the Brooke Meroutus taking the name of the old Family of Kings among the Gals where is an old Castle compassed with the Brooke and of the same name then running to Dort in Holland it receiues the foresaid Lecca and Isala and so neere Rhoterodame fals into the Mosa and vnder that name fals neere Brill into the German Sea The third branch of the Rheine running from Lobecum within two miles of Arnheime fals into the ditch of Drusus or rather of Germanicus and so runnes to Dewsborows the City of Drusus where it receiues the old Isala springing in Westphalia and by the name of Isala or Isell running to Zutphane and then to Deuentry fals into Tatus at Amstelrodame and by an arme of the Sea is carried to West-Freesland and so fals into the German Sea neere the Iland Flye 5 To returne to my purpose Holland is little in circuite but abounds with people and dwellings and being poore of it selfe is most rich by industrie and wanting both Wine and Corne yet furnisheth many Nations with both Neither Wooll nor Flax grow there but of both brought in to them they make linnen clothes much prised and also Woollen both carried to the very Indies I need not speake of Holland Cheeses so vulgarly knowne and much esteemed Lastly Holland is famous for the traffique of all commodities and the Romans so highly esteemed the Fortitude and faithfulnes of the old Battani as they had a Band of them for their Guard 6 The County of Zutphane is accompted part of Gelderland and subdued by the States Arinie was ioyned to the vnited Prouinces in the yeere 1591. 7 The County of Namures so called of the Cheese Citie hath Mines of Iron and plenty of stony Coale contrarie to all other Coales in that it is quenched by the infusion of Oyle It hath also an ill smell which they take away by the sprinckling of Salt and it burnes more cleere hauing water cast vpon it This County hath also quarries of Free-stone and of Marble of diuers colours 8 The Dukedome of Luxenburg hath the name of the chiefe Citie and the inhabitants of the vpper part are Germanes but they of the lower parts are like the French in language and Manners 9 The Dukedom of Brabant hath faire Cities namely Antwerp most famous before the ciuil War because Maximilian of Austria brought thither frō Bruges in Flanders the famous traffique of all Nations by a ditch drawne to Sluce onely to bee failed vpon at the flowing of the Sea tides At this day forsaken of Merchants it lies ouergrowne with grasse and the said trafficke inricheth Holland and the vnited Prouinces The next City is Brissell of old the seate of the Dukes and now of the Spanish Gouernours Then Louan a famous Vniuersity Then Mechlin subiect to the vnited States Then Bergen-ap-zome a fortified City at this time committed to the custody of Sir Thomas Morgan Knight with an English Garrison The Inhabitants of this Dukedome were of old called Tungri 10 The Dukedome of Limburg hath Mastricht for the chiefe City
in our Age. The other City is called Chaledon whence was the Chaledonian Boare sung of the Poets 5 The fifth Prouince of Turky is Macedonia of old called Migdonia and Emathea the chiefe City whereof is Thessalonica vulgarly now called Saloniche to the Citizens whereof S. Paul wrote his Epistle The Mountains of this Prouince Olimpus Pelion Ossa are famous by the fables of the Giants Athos is fained to passe the clouds with his top 6. The lower part of Macedonia is called Thessalia or AEmonia of Thessalus the son of AEmon or as others say of Iason the chiefe Towne whereof was Pharsalos whose fields are famous by the victory of Caesar against Pompey 7 Thracia hath faire Cities Trimontium of old called Poneropolis and Philippopolis Adrianopolis and the head City Constantinopolis of old called Bysantium now Stambol seated vpon the Bosphorus of Thracia It hath famous Mountaines Rhodope Mela and Ismarus Vpon Propontis the Thracian Chersonesus or necke of Land lies vpon the Hellespont in which are the Townes Sesto and Callipolis 8 The vpper Mista is deuided into three parts Rascia Bosnia and Seruia and the lower Misia into three parts Bulgaria Wallachia and Moldauia In Bulgaria the Riuer Danubius beginnes to be called Isther which fals into the Euxine Sea with foure strong and three lesser channels 9 Dacia or Transiluania was of old possessed by the Saxons who there built seuen Cities or Castles of which the Prouince is called Septem-Castrensis vulgarly Sieben burgen and of old it belonged to the Kingdome of Hungary but at this day is tributary to the Turks 10 Hungaria so called of the people Hunnt was of old called Fannonia the lower and of right belongs to the German Emperour but of late the Turkes haue subdued the greater part thereof It hath many and strongly fortified Cities as Debrezinum Varadinum Segedinum vulgarly Seget Castrum taken by the Turkes Strigonium vulgarly 〈◊〉 taken by the Turkes in the yeere 1543 Alba Regalis at that time also taken by them Quinquecclesiae the feate of the Bishop Buda seated vpon the Danow twice or thrice taken and regained on both sides of old the Kings seate called vulgarly Offen and Pesta seated on the other side of Danow vulgarly called New offen The Hungarian Nation yeelds to none in strength and courage not vnlike the Scithians in language and manners 11 The Ilands of Europe in the Ionian Sea are these Corcira vulgarly Corfu Cephalania and Zaintos in Latin Zacinthus vulgarly now called Zante all three subiect to the Venetians All the Ilands in the AEgean Sea are subiect to the Turke being innumerable among them are the Cyclades so called because they lie round together the chiefe whereof are Cytnos Cyphnos vulgarly Sifano Parus now called Paris famous for the Marble Tenos now called Tenasa Naxus Andros and Delos the chiefe of all where Apollo and Diana were borne Next them are the Sporades so called of lying dispersed among which are Melos Lera Nicaria AEgina and Lemnos vulgarly Stalemine whether they fable that Vulcane was cast downe The Iland Ibea now vulgarly Negroponte is attributed to Greece being separated from the continent with so little distance as it can hardly be named an Iland and it lies close to the City of Athens The Turke hath great part of Asia deuided into Asia the lesser and Asia the greater The lesser is now called Natolia or Anatolia of a Greeke word signifying the East being a kinde of Isthmus or necke of land lying betweene two Seas the Euxine towards the North and the Mediterranean towards the South as it hath the Thracian Bosphorus as passable by an Oxe swimming and Propontis as lying before the Sea and Hellespont the AEgean Sea towards the West and is confined with the Riuer Euphrates towards the East This lesser Asia is all subiect to the Turk and hath 16. Prouinces Bithinia Fōtus Paphlagonia Capadocia Gallatia Frigia the greater lesser Misia Ionia Charia Lidia Pamphilia Lacaonia Licia Cilicia the lesser Armenia Chomagena 1 Bithinia is at this day called Migtonia and the chiefe Cities thereof are Nicea the Metropolitan Citie famous for the Councell in the yeere 314. of 318. Bishops meeting to beat downe the Arrian heresie and there making the Nicene Creed Lybissa where Hannibal was buried Chalcedo where one of the eight olde Councels was held by 530 Bishops Heraclia Nicomedia Phrasso where Esculapius was born and Bursa seated ouer against Constantinople where some Turkish Emperours lye buried and thither the great Turkes eldest sonne is sent to gouerne or in a kinde of exile for he neuer sees his Father more till he be dead and thither he is sent assoone as hee is circumcised 2. Some accompt Pontus for part of Bithinia 3. Paphlagonia is the third Prouince 4. Capadocia the fourth so called of the Riuer Capadocis and the chiefe Citie is Trapesuntium now called Genech And here the Amazones are said to haue liued from the destruction of Troy to the time of Alexander the Great 5 Frigia the lesser was called Frixis of Frixus sonne to the King of Thebes flying with his sister frō his stepmother who moūted on a Ramm with a golden Fleece perhaps a Ship so called his sister being drowned giuing the name to Hellespont and he came himself to this part of Asia which at this day is called Palormi yeelds a most excellent Wine and in this Prouince are Illium or Troy the Mountaines Ida and Tinolus and the Riuer Pactolus The ninth Sybilla that prophesied of Christ was a Frigian and here raigned King Tantalus by couetousnesse leesing the vse of his goods of whom the Poets so fable The greater Frigia is within Land 6 The chiefe Cities of Misia are Traianopolis built by Traian and Adramitbium whereof mentiou is made in the seuenteenth Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles and where Gallene was borne who liued 140 yeeres 7 Gallatia or Gallogrecia was possessed by the Gals vnder Brennus whereof the chiefe City is Laodicia and to this Prouince belongs Pisidia the chiefe City whereof is Antiochia 8 The chiefe Cities of Ionia are Ephesus where was the Temple of Diana which Erostrates a Gothe did burne to be famous Miletum where Thales and Anaximines were borne Smyrna 9 The chiefe City of Charia was of old Halicarnassus in which was the Sepulcher of Mausolius the King held for one of the seuen miracles of the World 10 The chiefe City of Lydia was Sardis where Craesus raigned 11 The chiefe City of Pamphilia was Zelotia and in this Prouince is the Mountaine Chimera vpon the wild top whereof Lyons were found as in the middle part yeelding grasse Goates did feed and in the bottome were Serpents whereof came the fiction of the Monster 12 In Lacaonia of old were these cities Iconium Metrapolitan Lysire where Timothy Saint Pauls Disciple was borne and the Riuer Xanthus runnes through this Prouince 13 Licia lies vpō the Sea between Pamphilia Charia 14 Cylicia lies vnder
among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and
the chiefe City by the Lattines called Mediomatricum and Metis is now vulgarly called Metz which City the King of France tooke in the yeere 1551 from the Empire in the time of the Emperor Charles the fifth who besieged the same long but in vaine the Kings of France still holding it The Dukedome of Burgundy belonged of old to the Empire but is now subiect to the Kings of France the chiefe City whereof is Dijon where the Parliament of the whole Dukedome is held It hath other Cities namely Beaulue Challon Chastillon Noyres and a place called Bourgougne which gaue the name to the Dukedome yet others write that it had the name of Bourges that is Townes The County of Burgundy belonged of old to the Empire but is now subiect to the King of Spaine whose progenitor married the daughter and heire of the Duke of Burgundy at which time the Kings of France tooke the foresaid Dukedome from the said daughter and heire And this County is vulgarly called Franche Conte as free from tributes It hath two free Cities Dole an Vniuersity and Besancon 2 The second part of Transalpina Gallia is Narbonensis which onely at this day yet not all may truly be called Gallia It was of old called Braccata of the Inhabitants apparell and is called Narbonensis of the chiefe City Narbona lying vpon the Riuer Athesis neere the Mediterranean Sea which Strabo witnesseth to haue beene of old a famous City for trafficke The Riuer Rhodanus runnes through it which falling from the Alpes and increased by Araris but still retaining the first name fals into the Mediterranean Sea This part called Narbonensis by the benefit of the Ayre and Sunne yeelds Figges Grapes Cytrons Peaches Pomegranates Chessenuts rich Wine and all delicate fruites and all the fields are made odoriferous by wild Rosemary Myrtels Palmetrees and many sweete hearbes and the Inhabitants haue lately planted Canes of sugar To conclude the Prouince is very pleasant and plentifull in all things On the West side of Rhodanus the Tectosages dwelt of old in the Prouince called Languadoc hauing that name because the Inhabitants vse Oc for the French Ouy The chief Cities thereof are Narbona aforesaid Mompeliers of old a famous Vniuersity Clermont The Dukedome of Sauoy lies in a corner from the alps to the mediterranean Sea of old inhabited by the Focuntij and it lying on the same side of the Alpes with France is reckoned a part thereof but the Duke thereof is an absolute Prince and the chiefe City is Chambery The Prouince is very fertile and where it is more barren yet affoordes excellent fruites and all things for foode at a conuenient price Dolphiny lies betweene the Riuer Rhodanus and the Dukedome of Sauoy and giues the name of Dolphin to the French Kings eldest sonne Prouence is a most sweete Territory and hath the Cities Marseile famous by trade with the Turkes Arles and Auignon subiect to the Pope for when many Popes were at one time Iohn the two and twentieth did long sit in this City giuen by Ioane Queene of Naples to the Popes in the time of Clement the sixth alienated from the Kingdome of Naples by her and annexed to the Patrimony of Saint Peter in the yeere 1360. The Principalitie of Orange is an absolute dominion hauing the chiefe City of the same name and seated betweene Languedoc Dolphiny and the Popes Territorie of Auignon The ayre of the Northerne part of France is purer then that of England and being not couered with cloudes drawne out of the Sea as England is for that cause in winter becomes more cold and in summer more hot and farre lesse annoied with mists rainy weather But on the other side more lesse according to the clyme the parts of France lying towards the Mountaines Pirenei and neerer to the Equinoctiall line are subiect to intemperate heate yet often allaied by the winds blowing from the Sea and by the shaddow of the Mountaines This Southerly part yeeldes all the fruites of Italy and in the Northerly parts as in Normandy they haue abundance of Apple and Peare trees of which they make great quantity of Sider and Perry and this part as towards the Sea it yeelds also plenty of Corne so within Land it affoords the like of Wines And in the very Northerly Iland called France they haue plenty of Grapes vpon pleasant hils watered with sweet Riuers but the wine made of them is small and sharpe All France is most pleasant and not onely about Narbona but in many other territories according to the commodity of the clime it yeelds great plenty of red and white wines exported in great quantity which are held excellent to be drunke the white in the moaning and the red with meate which red is otherwise reputed vnholsome as prouoking and causing rhumes France aboundeth with all things necessary for food as well Corne as Cattell red Deare Fowle and also with all kinds of Fish by reason it is partly compassed with the Sea and vpon all sides is watered with sweete Riuers For fier they vse wood and coales yet haue they no pit coales or sea coales but haue their sea eoales out of England for their Smiths Forges and where they haue lesse store of wood within land there they burne straw furres and other kinds of stubble They haue good races of Horses which the greater part vse in the Warre who are not able to buy Neapolitan Coursers Spanish lanets or English Coursers bred of the Neapolitan Horses and English Mares but for their iournies they haue no Gueldings or ambling Nagges as wee haue but commonly vse trotting and stoned Nagges The Gentlemen doe not meddle with trafficke either because it was of old forbidden to great Lords and Gentlemen lest the Kings impositions should thereby suffer domage they being by singular priuiledges exempted and freed from all such burthens or because in deed they thinke such trafficke ignoble and base and so vnfit fot them which error the French no lesse deerely buy then the English as I haue shewed in the discourse of Italy and shall againe proue in that of England In generall the French are lesse studious of Nauigation or industrious in that kind because they abound almost with all things for plentifull foode and rich attire and if they want any thing strangers gladly bring it to them and exchange it for their wines salt and course linnen cloaths neither haue I heard or read that they euer did any braue exploit by sea They haue in time of warre some few men of warre for piracy and some few ships to export their commodities but they saile onely to neighbour Countries as out of Normandy and Bretaigne into England Ireland and the Low-Countries and onely those of Marseile to Tripoli in Syria As for the Colonies which in our Age they haue led into the West Indies their vnhappy successe therein hath discouraged them from like new attempts And whosoeuer sees their rich Cities within
will cost him sixe pence or in some places but foure pence yet this course is lesse honourable and not vsed by Gentlemen but if he will eate in his chamber he commands what meate he will according to his appetite and as much as he thinkes fit for him and his company yea the kitchin is open to him to command the meat to be dressed as he best likes and when he sits at Table the Host or Hostesse will accompany him or if they haue many Guests will at least visit him taking it for curtesie to be bid sit downe while he eates if he haue company especially he shall be offred musicke which he may freely take or refuse and if he be solitary the Musitians will giue him the good day with musicke in the morning It is the custome and no way disgracefull to set vp part of supper for his breakefast In the euening or in the morning after breakefast for the common sort vse not to dine but ride from breakefast to supper time yet comming early to the Inne for better resting of their Horses he shall haue a reckoning in writing and if it seeme vnreasonable the Host will satisfie him either for the due price or by abating part especially if the seruant deceiue him any way which one of experience will soone find Hauing formerly spoken of ordinary expences by the high way aswell in the particular iournall of the first Part as in a Chapter of this Part purposely treating thereof I will now onely adde that a Gentleman and his Man shall spend as much as if he were accompanied with another Gentleman and his Man and if Gentlemen will in such sort ioyne together to eate at one Table the expences will be much diminished Lastly a Man cannot more freely command at home in his owne House then hee may doe in his Inne and at parting if he giue some few pence to the Chamberlin Ostler they wish him a happy iourney England hath three publike Feasts of great expence and pompous solemnity namely the coronation of the Kings the Feast of S. George as well vpon his day yeerely as at all times when any Knight of the Order is installed and the third when Seriants at the Law are called The Lord Mayor of the City of London vpon the day when he is sworne enters his Office keeps a solemne Feast with publike shewes of great magnificence besides that hee and the Sheriffes of the Citie daily keepe well furnished Tables to entertaine any Gentleman or stranger that will come to them to the great honour of the City in this particular passing all other Cities of the World knowne to vs. For the point of drinking the English at a Feast will drinke two or three healths in remembrance of speciall friends or respected honourable persons and in our time some Gentlemen and Commanders from the warres of Netherland brought in the custome of the Germans large garaussing but this custome is in our time also in good measure left Likewise in some priuate Gentlemens houses and with some Captaines and Souldiers and with the vulgar sort of Citizens and Artisans large and intemperate drinking is vsed but in generall the greater and better part of the English hold all excesse blame worthy and drunkennesse a reprochfull vice Clownes and vulgar men onely vse large drinking of Beere or Ale how much soeuer it is esteemed excellent drinke euen among strangers but Gentlemen garrawse onely in Wine with which many mixe sugar which I neuer obserued in any other place or Kingdome to be vsed for that purpose And because the taste of the English is thus delighted with sweetenesse the Wines in Tauernes for I speake not of Merchants or Gentlemens Cellars are commonly mixed at the filling thereof to make them pleasant And the same delight in sweetnesse hath made the vse of Corands of Corinth so frequent in all places and with all persons in England as the very Greekes that sell them wonder what we doe with such great quantities thereof and know not how we should spend them except we vse them for dying or to feede Hogges CHAP. IIII. Of Scotland touching the Subiects contained in the first Chapter THE Longitude of Scotland extends fiue degrees from the Meridian of sixeteene degrees to that of one and twenty degrees and the Latitude extends foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe to that of sixty degrees and a halfe In the Geographical description wherof I wil briefly follow the very words of Camden as neere as I can being an Authour without exception 1 The Gadeni of Scotland were of old next neighbours to the Ottadini of Northumberland in England and inhabited the Countrey now called Teyfidale wherein is nothing memorable but the Monastery of Mailors 2 In Merch so called as a bordering Countrey the Castle Hume is the old possession of the Lords of Hume neere which is Kelso the ancient dwelling of the Earles of Bothwell which were long by inheritance Admirals of Scotland and the Merch is mentioned in Histories for nothrng more then the valour of the said Earles 3 Laudania of old called Pictland shooteth out from Merch towards the Scottish narrow Sea called the Frith and is full of mountaines but hath few woods In this Country are these little Cities or Townes Dunbarre Haddington and Musleborrow places wherein hath beene seene the warlike vertue of the English and Scots Somewhat lower and neere to the foresaid Frith lies Edenborough which Ptolomy cals Castrum Alatum a rich City of old compassed with wals and the seate of the Kings whole Palace is at the East end in a vally ouer which hangs a mountaine called the Chaire of Arthur our Britan Prince and from this Pallace is an easie ascent to the West end where the length of the City ends in a steepe rocke vpon which is built a most strong Castle called the Maidens Castle the same which Ptolomy cals Alatum This City was long vnder the English Saxons and about the yeere 960 England being inuaded by the Danes it became subiect to the Scots Leth is a mile distant and is a most commodious Hauen vpon the narrow Scottish Gulfe vulgarly called Edenborough Frith 4 Towards the West lay the Selgouae vpon another Gulfe running betweene England and Scotland vulgarly called Solway Frith of the said Selgouae inhabiting the Countries called Eskedale Annandale and Nidtsdale in which is the little Towne Dunfrise 5 Next lay the Nouantes in the Valleys where Gallway and Whitterne which Citie Ptolomy calles Leucopibia are seated 6 In the little Countrie Caricta hauing good pastures is the little Towne Gergeny which Ptolomy calles Rerigonium 7 More inward lay the Damnij where now Sterling Merteth and Claidsdale are seated Here the Riuer Cluyde runnes by Hamelton the seate of the Hameltons Family of English race of which the third Earle of Arran liueth in our dayes and after by Glascow the seat of an Archbishop and a little Vniuersitie Here
Barley and Oates and all a plaine Country but it had no Woodes at all onely the Gentlemens dwellings were shaddowed with some little Groues pleasant to the view Scotland abounds with Fish and hath plenty of all Cattell yet not so bigge as ours and their Horses are full of spirit and patient of labour but very little so as the Scots then would giue any price for one of our English Gueldings which notwithstanding in Queene Elizabethe time might not vpon great penalty be sold vnto them The Nauy or shipping of Scotland was of small strength in the memory of our Age neither were their Marriners of greet experience but to make them more diligent Merchants their Kings had formerly laid small or no impositions or customes on them And while the English had warre with the Spaniards the Scots as neutrals by carrying of English commodities into Spaine and by hauing their ships for more security laden by English Merchants grew somewhat richer and more experienced in Nauigation and had better and stronger shippes then in former time And surely since the Scots are very daring I cannot see why their Marriners should not bee bold and couragious howsoeuer they haue not hitherto made any long voyages rather for want of riches then for slothfulnesse or want of courage The Inhabitants of the Westerne parts of Scotland carry into Ireland and Neighbouring places red and pickeled Herrings Sea coales and Aquauitae with like commodities and bring out of Ireland Yarne and Cowes hides or Siluer The Easterne Scots carry into France course cloathes both linnen and woollen which be narrow and shrinke in the wetting They also carry thether Wooll Skinnes of Goates Weathers and of Conies and diuers kindes of Fishes taken in the Scottish Sea and neere other Northerne Ilands and after smoked or otherwise dried and salted And they bring from thence Salt and Wines but the cheese trafficke of the Scots is in foure places namely at Camphire in Zeland whether they carry Salt the skinnes of Weathers Otters Badgers and Martens and bring from thence Corne. And at Burdeaux in France whether they carry cloathes and the same skinnes and bring from thence Wines Prunes Walnuts and Chessenuts Thirdly within the Balticke Sea whether they carry the said Clothes and Skinnes and bring thence Flaxe Hempe Iron Pitch and Tarre And lastly in England whether they carry Linnen cloathes Yarne and Salt and bring thence Wheate Oates Beanes and like things The Scots haue no Staple in any forraigne City but trade in France vpon the League of the Nations and in Denmarke haue priuiledges by the affinity of the Kings and stocke in great numbers into Poland abounding in all things for foode and yeelding many commodities And in these Kingdomes they liued at this time in great multitudes rather for the pouerty of their owne Kingdome then for any great trafficke they exercised there dealing rather for small fardels then for great quantities of rich wares Touching their diet They eate much red Colewort and Cabbage but little fresh meate vsing to salt theit Mutton and Geese which made me more wonder that they vsed to eate Beefe without salting The Gentlemen reckon their reuenewes not by rents of monie but by chauldrons of victuals and keepe many people in their Families yet liuing most on Corne and Rootes not spending any great quantity of flesh My self was at a Knights house who had many seruants to attend him that brought in his meate with their heads couered with blew caps the Table being more then halfe furnished with great platters of porredge each hauing a little peece of sodden meate And when the Table was serued the seruants did sit downe with vs but the vpper messe in steede of porredge had a Pullet with some prunes in the broth And I obserued no Art of Cookery or furniture of Houshold stuffe but rather rude neglect of both though my selfe and my companion sent from the Gouernour of Barwicke about bordering affaires were entertained after their best manner The Scots liuing then in factions vsed to keepe many followers and so consumed their reuenew of victuals liuing in some want of money They vulgarly eate harth Cakes of Oates but in Cities haue also wheaten bread which for the most part was bought by Courtiers Gentlemen and the best sort of Citizens When I liued at Barwicke the Scots weekely vpon the market day obtained leaue in writing of the Gouernour to buy Pease and Beanes whereof as also of Wheate their Merchants at this day send great quantity from London into Scotland They drinke pure Wines not with sugar as the English yet at Feasts they put Comfits in the Wine after the French manner but they had not our Vinteners fraud to mixe their Wines I did neuer see nor heare that they haue any publike Innes with signes hanging out but the better sort of Citizens brew Ale their vsuall drinke which will distemper a strangers bodie and the same Citizens will entertaine passengers vpon acquaintance or entreaty Their bedsteads were then like Cubbards in the wall with doores to be opened and shut at pleasure so as we climbed vp to our beds They vsed but one sheete open at the sides and top but close at the feete and so doubled Passengers did seeke a stable for their Horses in some other place and did there buy hors-meat and if perhaps the same house yeelded a stable yet the payment for the Horse did not make them haue beds free as in England I omit to speake of the Innes and expences therein hauing delated the same in the Itinerary of the first Part and a Chapter in this Part expressely treating thereof When passengers goe to bed their custome was to present them with a sleeping cuppe of wine at parting The Country people and Merchants vsed to drinke largely the Gentlemen some-what more sparingly yet the very Courtiers at Fcasts by night meetings and entertaining any stranger vsed to drinke healths not without excesse and to speake truth without offence the excesse of drinking was then farre greater in generall among the Scots then the English My selfe being at the Court inuited by some Gentlemen to supper and being forewarned to feare this excesse would not promise to sup with thembut vpon condition that my Inuiter would be my protection from large drinking which I was many times forced to inuoke being curteously entertained and much prouoked to garaussing and so for that time auoided any great intemperance Remembring this and hauing since obserued in my conuersation at the English Court with the Scots of the better sort that they spend great part of the night in drinking not onely wine but euen beere as my selfe will not accuse them of great intemperance so I cannot altogether free them from the imputation of excesse wherewith the popular voice chargeth them CHAP. V. Of Ireland touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of Ireland extends foure degrees from the Meridian of eleuen degrees and a halfe
to that of fifteene and a halfe and the Latitude extends also foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty foure degrees to that of fifty eight degrees In the Geographicall description I will follow Camden as formerly This famous Iland in the Virginian Sea is by olde Writers called Ierna Inuerna and Iris by the old Inhabitants Eryn by the old Britans Yuerdhen by the English at this day Ireland and by the Irish Bardes at this day Banno in which sence of the Irish word Auicen cals it the holy Iland besides Plutarch of old called it Ogigia and after him Isidore named it Scotia This Ireland according to the Inhabitants is deuided into two parts the wild Irish and the English Irish liuing in the English Pale but of the old Kingdomes fiue in number it is deuided into fiue parts 1 The fast is by the Irish called Mowne by the English Mounster and is subdeuided into sixe Counties of Kerry of Limricke of Corcke of Tipperary of the Holy Crosse and of Waterford to which the seuenth County of Desmond is now added The Gangaui a Scithean people comming into Spaine and from thence into Ireland inhabited the County of Kerry full of woody mountaines in which the Earles of Desmond had the dignity of Palatines hauing their House in Trailes a little Towne now almost vninhabited Not farre thence lies Saint Mary Wic vulgarly called Smerwicke where the Lord Arthur Gray being Lord Deputy happily ouerthrew the aiding troopes sent to the Earle of Desmond from the Pope and the King of Spaine On the South side of Kerry lies the County of Desmond of old inhabited by three kinds of people the Lucens being Spaniards the Velabri so called of their seate vpon the Sea waters or Marshes and the Iberns called the vpper Irish inhabiting about Beerehauen Baltimore two Hauens well known by the plentiful fishing of Herrings and the late inuasion of the Spaniards in the yeere 1601. Next to these is the County of Mec Carti More of Irish race whom as enemy to the Fitz-geralds Queene Elizabeth made Earle of Glencar in the yeere 1556. For of the Fitz-Geralds of the Family of the Earles of Kildare the Earles of Desmond descended who being by birth English and created Earles by King Edward the third became hatefull Rebels in our time The third County hath the name of the City Corke consisting almost all of one long streete but well knowne and frequented which is so compassed with rebellious neighbours as they of old not daring to marry their Daughters to them the custome grew and continues to this day that by mutuall marriages one with another all the Citizens are of kinne in some degree of Affinity Not farre thence is Yoghall hauing a safe Hauen neere which the Vicounts of Barry of English race are seated In the fourth County of Tipperary nothing is memorable but that it is a Palatinate The little Towne Holy-Cresse in the County of the same name hath many great priuiledges The sixth County hath the name of the City Limerike the seate of a Bishop wherein is a strong Castle built by King Iohn Not farre thence is Awue the seate of a Bishop and the lower Ossery giuing the title of an Earle to the Butlers and the Towne Thurles giuing them also the title of Vicount And there is Cassiles now a poore City but the seate of an Archbishoppe The seuenth County hath the name of the City Watersord which the Irish call Porthlargi of the commodious Hauen a rich and well inhabited City esteemed the second to Dublyn And because the Inhabitants long faithfully helped the English in subduing Ireland our Kings gaue them excessiue priuiledges but they rashly failing in their obedience at King Iames his comming to the Crowne could not in long time obtaine the confirmation of their old Charter 2 Lemster the second part of Ireland is fertile and yeelds plenty of Corne and hath a most temperate mild Aire being deuided into ten Counties of Catterlogh Kilkenny Wexford Dublyn Kildare the Kings County the Queenes County the Counties of Longford of Fernes and of Wickle The Cariondi of old inhabited Caterlogh or Carloo County and they also inhabited great part of Kilkenny of vpper Ossery and of Ormond which haue nothing memorable but the Earles of Ormond of the great Family of the Butlers inferiour to no Earle in Ireland not to speake of Fitz pairic Baron of vpper Ossery It is redicnious which some Irish who will be beleeued as men of credit report of Men in these parts yeerely turned into Wolues except the aboundance of melancholy humour transports them to imagine that they are so transformed Kilkenny giuing name to the second County is a pleasant Towne the chiefe of the Townes within Land memorable for the ciuility of the Inhabitants for the Husbandmens labour and the pleasant Orchards I passe ouer the walled Towne Thomastowne and the ancient City Rheban now a poore Village with a Castle yet of old giuing the title of Barronet I passe ouer the Village and strong Castle of Leighlin with the Countrey adioyning vsurped by the Sept of the Cauanaghs now surnamed Omores Also I omit Kosse of old a large City at this day of no moment The third County of Wexford called by the Irish County Reogh was of old inhabited by the Menappij where at the Towne called Banna the English made their first discent into Ireland and vpon that Coast are very dangerous flats in the Sea which they vulgarly call Grounds The City Weshford Weisford or Wexford is the cheefe of the County not great but deseruing praise for their faithfulnesse towards the English and frequently inhabited by Men of English race The Cauci a Seabordering Nation of Germany and the Menappij aforesaid of old inhabited the territories now possessed by the Omores and Ohirns Also they inhabited the fourth County of Kildare a fruitfull soyle hauing the cheese Towne of the same name greatlie honoured in the infancie of the Church by Saint Briget King Edward the second created the Giralds Earles of Kildare The Eblani of old inhabited the territory of Dublin the fifth County hauing a fertile soyle and rich pastures but wanting wood so as they burne Turffe or Seacoale brought out of England The City Dublyn called Diuelin by the English and Balacleigh as seated vpon hurdles by the Irish is the cheefe City of the Kingdome and seate of Iustice fairely built frequently inhabited and adorned with a strong Castle fifteene Churches an Episcopall seate and a faire Colledge an happy foundation of an Vniuersity laid in our Age and indowed with many priuiledges but the Hauen is barred and made lesse commodious by those hils of sands The adioyning Promontory Hoth-head giues the title of a Barron to the Family of Saint Laurence And towards the North lies Fengall a little Territory as it were the Garner of the Kingdome which is enuironed by the Sea and great Riuers and this situation hath defended it from the incursion of Rebels in former
breeches are open behind with the shirt hanging out that they may case themselues without helpe Among other Princes of Italy I did see Ferdinand the third Duke of Florence who did weare a cloke of English cloth with one little lace and breeches of Veluct without any ornament and stockings of leather and a leather scabbard to his sword and his Coach was lined with old greene Veluct and the Horses seemed taken out of the Plough The women in generall are delighted with mixed and light colours The women of Venice weare choppines or shoos three or foure hand-bredths high so as the lowest of them seeme higher then the tallest men and for this cause they cannot goe in the streetes without leaning vpon the shoulder of an old woman They haue another old woman to beare vp the traine of their gowne they are not attended with any man but onely with old women In other parts of Italy they weare lower shooes yet somewhat raised and are attended by old women but goe without any helpe of leading The women of Venice weare gownes leauing all the necke and brest bare and they are closed before with a lace so open as a man may see the linnen which they lap about their bodies to make them seeme fat the Italians most louing fat women They shew their naked necks and breasts and likewise their dugges bound vp and swelling with linnen and all made white by art They weare large falling bands and their haire is commonly yellow made so by the Sunne and art and they raise vp their haire on the forehead in two knotted hornes and deck their heads vncouered haire with flowers of silke and with pearle in great part counterfeit And they cast a black vaile from the head to the shoulders through which the nakednesse of their shoulders and neckes and breasts may easily be seene For this attire the women of Venice are prouerbially said to be Grande dilegni Grosse di straci rosse dibettito bianche di calcina that is tall with wood fat with ragges red with painting and white with chalke The women of Genoa are attired much after the French fashion and by reason of neighbourhood borrow diuers manners from France which is also to be vnderstood of other Cities lying vnder the French Alpes and they goe abroad either alone or attended by men not by women as in other parts yea by night and early in the morning to the Church which suspected fashions other Italians cannot endure They weare nets and blacke vailes couering there with their faces contrary to the French manner without which the poorest woman goes not abroad In generall the Women of Italy for diuers Cities haue some fashions differing from other most commonly but especially the wiues of shopkeepers weare gowns of silke and light stuffes yea wouen with gold and those close at the brest and necke with a standing collar and little ruffes close vp to the very chinne and shewing no part naked And Gentlewomen in generall weare gownes loose behind with a close collar hiding all nakednesse and with traines borne vp by waitingmaides and sometimes with open hanging sleeues The married women weare their heads bare or couered with a fine linnen coyfe and a hat and a vaile hanging downe from the hinder part of the head to the backe The vnmarried haue their heads bare with their haire knotted like snakes and tied with gold and siluer laces or else they are couered with a gold netted cawle and they weare also gold chaines The married women weare chaines of pearle about the head and necke which in some places are forbidden to Virgins and these pearles are many times especially at Venice counterfet and made of glasse but very beautifull to the eye Widdowes and Women that mourne couer all their head and shoulders with a blacke vaile and vpon the forehead they weare a shadow or bongrace and about their neckes a white vaile hanging downe before to their feete The Countrey wenches weare vpon their heads gold and siluer cawles or at least seeming such and straw hats and guilded girdles and for the rest as other women are delighted with light colours The City Virgins and especially Gentlewomen couer their heads face and backes with a Vaile that they may not be seene passing the streetes and in many places weare silke or linnen breeches vnder their gownes Also I haue seene honourable Women aswell married as Virgines ride by the high way in Princes traines apparrelled like Men in a doublet close to the body and large breeches open at the knees after the Spanish fashion both of carnation silke or satten and likewise riding astride like men vpon Horses or Muses but their heads were attired like Women with bare haires knotted or else couered with gold netted cawles and a hat with a feather And many times in the Cities as at Padua I haue seene Curtizans in plaine English whores in the time of shrouing apparrelled like men in carnation or light coloured doublets and breeches and so playing with the racket at Tennis with yong men at which time of shrouing the Women no lesse then Men and that honourable women in honourable company goe masked and apparrelled like men all the afternoone about the streetes euen from Christmasse holydaies to the first day in Lent The Women wearing Mens breeches haue them open all before and most part behind onely buttoned with gold or siluer buttons And the Curtizans make all the forepart of their gownes in like manner open to auoide wrinckling Lastly the Italians vse to tie themselues vpon a vow for recouery of health or like cause to weare certaine apparrell for a time or for life and if the vow be in repentance of sinne the colour is ash colour vulgarly Beretino which I haue seene some weare for long time constantly with purpose to weare them during life CHAP. II. Of the Turkes French English Scottish and Irish Apparrell THe Turks shaue their heads but only in the very crowne where they leaue a tuffr of haire and they doe not now as of old onely nourish the haire of the vpper lip but al the beard growing round They couer their head thus shaued with a close cap of Scarlet and aboue it weare some twelue or twenty elles of fine white cotton cloth wouen into a round globe which in their tongue is called a Tulbent and by some Tsalma neither do they euer vncouer their heads in honour to any man but salute by bending the body and laying their left hand on their right side This cap or this head as they call it is hollow and so admits aire being borne vp by little hoopes and so cooles the head yet being thicke keepes out the Sunne from piercing it and being of most fine linnen is much lighter then our hats All the Orders or degrees among the Turkes are knowne by the ornament of the head or by their heades as they speake The Azimoglanes weare Pyramidall caps like sugar-loues of a mingled colour
chosen Emperour was ouercome by his Competitor and being againe raised to that dignitie was put from it by Frederike the second and died 1218. Otho his brothers Sonne was forced to yeeld the Dukedome of Saxony to the Elector of Saxony Albert the second And the Emperour Frederick the second cast his Garrison out of Brunswick with the helpe of the Citizens and made Brunswick a free Imperiall City But at last the Emperour vpon the submission of Otho forgaue him and created him Duke of Brunswick and Luneburg This Otho died in the yeere 1252 from whom this house was subdeuided into the following Families From Henrie the Wonderfull descend the Lords of Ember and Grobenbagen From Albert the Fat dying in the yeere 1318 descend the Dukes of Brunswick and of Luneburg as followeth Magnus Torquatus heire of both Dukedomes whose garrison the citizens of Luneburg cast out of the castle Calkberg left three sonnes Frederick chosen Emperour against Wenceslaus killed by treachetie in the yeere 1400. Bernard after the killing of his brother yeelded the D. of Brunswick to his Nephew William retaining the D. of Luneburg died 1434. From Bernard descend Otho who exhibited the Reformed Confession at Augtburg and died 1549. Otho Lord of Harburg had to his first wife the daughter to the Earle of Schwartzenburg and with the second Wife Daughter to the Earle of Emden hee then liued when I passed though Germany Otho had by his first wife two sonnes Otho Henrich borne 1555 and Iohn Frederick borne 1557 and one daughter Elizabeth borne 1553 and married to the King of Suecia And by his second wife sixe sonnes William borne 1564. Euno borne 1565. Christopher borne 1570. Otho borne 1572. Iohn borne 1573. Frederick borne 1578. And three daughters Anna Margarita borne 1567. Heduigis borne 1569. Catherina Sophia borne 1577. The first house of the Dukes of Luneburg and Brunswick for the titles are cōmon to al. Anne borne 1526. And Ernest who reformed Religion and died 1546 buried at Cella Henry maried the daughter of the D. of the lower Saxony dwelling at Angria Henry had three sons Iulius Ernestus borne 1571. Francis Cannon of Strasburg borne 1572. And Augustus borne 1579. And two daughters Sibilla Elizabetha borne 1576. And Sidonia borne 1577. The second branch likewise Dukes of Luneburg and Brunswick William in the yere 1561 married Dorothy Daughter to Christian King of Denmarke William had seuen sons Ernest borne 1564. Christian borne 1561. Augustus borne 1568. Frederick borne 1574. Magnus borne 1577 then Rector of the Vniuersitie of Iena George borne 1582. Iohn borne 1583. And seuen daughters Sophia married to George Marquis of Brandeburg 1579. Elizabeth to the Count of Hohelm 1585. Doroty borne 1570. Clara 1571. Margaret 1573. Marie 1575. And Sibilla 1584. The third branch with the same titles Francis of the reformed religion left two daughters no heires males and died 1549. Henrie died before his brother Frederick William the Victorious at the death of his Vncle Frederick possessed the Dukedome of Brunswick which his Vncle Bernard did yeeld to him Hee died 1482. Dukes of Brunswick From William the Victorious descends Henry who twise in vaine besieged Brunswick aided by other free Cities He died 1514. Henrie made captiue by the Elector of Saxony 1545 twice besieged Brunswick He had two sisters and foure brothers Ericus Christopher Bishop of Verden Francis and George Archbishop of Breme The eldest married Mary Daughter to the Duke of Wirtenberg and died 1568. Iulius his two elder Brethren being killed left his Priest-hood reformed Religion after Luthers doctrine founded an Vniuersitie at Helmstat and called it Iulia married Heduigis daughter to Ioachim the second Elector of Brandeburg and died in the yeere 1589. Henrie Iulius borne 1562 Administrator of two Bishopricks of Halberstat and Mind first married Dorothy Daughter to Augustus Elector of Saxony then Elizabeth daughter to Frederike King of Denmark yet liuing By his first wife he had Dorothy Heduigis borne 1587 by the second Frederike Vdalrike borne 1591. Three brothers Philip Sigismond Bishop of Verden borne 1568. Ioachim Carolus borne 1573. Iulius Augustus borne 1578. Fiue sisters Sophia married to Ernest Duke of Pomeru Mary to Francis D. of lower Saxony 1582. Elizabeth to the Count of Schaumberg Dorothy borne 1577. Heduigis 1580. The second house of the Duke of Brunswicke more powerfull then all the former ioyned He had foure sisters Catherine married to Iohn Marquisse of Brandeburg Margaret to the D. of Munsterberg Clara first an Abbesse then married to Phillip Lord of Grachenhage And Mary an Abbesse And Ericus called the Popish Ericus called also the Popish married his daughter to Iohn Prince Dauria of Genoa in Italy He had a base sonne who died without issue and lies buried with his Father at Pauia in Italy The Duke of Brunswicke keepes his Court at a strong Castle within the little City Wolfeubeiten lesse then a German mile distant from Brunswick of which City he beares the title in respect it of old belonged to his Progenitors in which kind he is also called Duke of Luneburg to which he hath right of succession and Purgraue of Nurnberg which title hath beene long extinct not that he hath any least power ouer the City or so much as a house therein whom the Citizens rather wish many miles remoued from them I haue said that Henry Iulius Duke of Brunswick hath three brothers and that the eldest of them was Bishop of Verden but when my selfe passed that way I vnderstood that of these three younger brothers the eldest was Bishop of Osenburg the next Channon of Strasburg and that the youngest was a Student in the Vniuersity of Helmstatt founded by his Father And it is worth obseruation that the Duke himselfe was Administrator of two Bishoprickes I haue shewed that the City of Brunswicke got their liberty by the Sword in the time of Duke Otho and with the aide of the Emperour Fredericke the second And as they gained it by Armes so they maintaine it hauing beene often besieged by the Dukes and to this day bearing vp the same against the Dukes with whom they cease not to expostulate that they vsurpe the title of their City And not long before my passage that way when at the marriage of the Duke with the sister to the King of Denmarke the Citizens of Brunswicke discharged some great Peeces of Artillery in honour of the marriage yet so great are the iealousies betweene the Duke and them as hee tooke it in ill part and shaking his head for anger said it was done in ostentation of their strength and as the threatning of enemies rather then the triumph of friends And the Senators of Brunswicke though inuited to the marriage yet would not come thither Neither doe they willingly suffer the Duke to come into their City And not long before when the Duke for pleasure disguised himselfe as a Carman and droue a Cart of wood into the City to be sold there the
chief Consul hauing notice therof commanded the gates to be shut and the streets to be chained when the Duke had long sate vpon the cart with some annoiance by reason of raine and found he could not goe back and thought it dangerous to goe into any priuate house at last the Consul bought his wood and so drew the Duke to his house where he intertained him honorably yet remembred him that he had put himselfe in needles danger knowing the ill affection of the common people towards him and then sending for the Dukes servantes to attend him led him out of the city with honour Luneburg a free City of the Empire is strongly fortified and statly built but hath no lesse ielosy with the neighbor Dukes bearing the title of the City yet they neither dwell in the City nor medle with the gouernment therof but abide at Cella and at Sethern some twelue miles distant and in other Cities of that Prouince according to the diuision of their inheritance betweene them The Citizens of Luneburg knowing that of old they bought their liberty of these Dukes and that to this day they pay them some tributes iustly feare lest the Duke or his Brothers and Cosens being many in number shold practise any thing against their liberty or at least being poor shold seek new occasiōs to extort mony frō them The Duke of old had a strong Castle built vpon a Mountaine hanging ouer the City vulgarly called Kalckberg that is the Mountaine of Chalke but the Butchers of the City at a Shroftide making shew of mustering in Armes tooke this Castle for which seruice to the Common-wealth the Butchers to this day haue the keeping therof But the Citizens are so suspitious lest it should be betraied to the Duke for mony as if any of them who keep it doe at any time goe forth of it into the City or to any other place they are no more permitted to enter the same Vpon the furthest shore of the Baltike sea towards the North-east the free City of Dantzke is seated It is free in respect of priuiledges for traffique and for that it is gouerned by the Senators and the Lawes of the City yet not numbered among the Imperiall Cities because it in some sort acknowledgeth the King of Poland and paies some couenanted tributes to his Minister residing in the City In the time of Stephen Bathory Prince of Transiluania and King of Poland this City was by him besieged and forced to pay these tributes Whervpon the Citizens to pay them without their own preiudice doubled all Impositions vpon strangers trading there The Consul of the City there as in all Germany is vulgarly called Burgomaster he iudgeth all ciuill criminal causes but appeales are granted from him to the Colledge of ciuil Lawyers from them to the Senate of the City and in some causes from the Senate to the King of Poland This City consists of three Cities vulgarly called Reichstat Furstat Altstatt that is the City of the Kingdome the fore City and the old City and each hath his gates and his Senate and the Consull may be chosen out of either Senate so as for the time of his Office he reside in the cheefe City called Reichstatt Here be the furthest limits of the Empire towards the North and the East And from hence towards the West Iles the shore of the Balticke Sea and of the German Ocean vpon which are seated Stetinum Meckleburg Lubecke Hamburg and Breame Imperiall Cities and free as weli for priuiledges of trafficke in neighbour Kingdomes as for absolute gouernement at home And in East-Freesland for West-Freesland belongs to Netherland the furthest limits of the Empire towards the West and North end in the City of Emden This City hath his Count bearing title of the City and of late he kept his Court therein but the Citizens professing the reformed Doctrine of Caluin and the Count attempting to force them to the profession of Luthers Doctrine not long before I passed that way the Citizens expelled the Count and gaue oath to the Senators of the City to obey them to be ready in armes for the defence of the City and not to remoue their dwellings from thence without leaue of the Senate And the Citizens were thus confident because the City lies vpon the confines of the Netherlanders who maintained men of warre in that Inland Sea and vpon the Riuer passing by the wals of the City to stop any passage and to defend the ships of Merchants forced in those flats to expect the returne of the tide And generally it was thought that Emden would ioine in league with the vnited Prouinces of Netherland but as yet it remained vnder the Empire not free by priuiledge nor yet subiect to the Count of Emden This Count at this time had two sonnes by the daughter of the King of Suelia and howsoeuer his younger brother by the loue of his mother had obtained the best part of the inheritance yet he had no children nor was thought likely to haue any so as no doubt was then made but that the whole inheritance would after his death returne to the children of the elder brother And these things shall suffice briefly written in generall of the Common-wealth of Germany and in particular of the absolute Dominions vnder the Empire CHAP. V. Of the Common-wealth of Sweitzerland according to the diuers subiects of the former Chapters THE Sweitzers deriued of diuers peoples and among others of the Schwalen and Friselanders howsoeuer they be Germans both in language and manners yet because the old Galles gaue them a seat at the foote of the Alpes they were accounted Galles or French till the time of Iulius Caesar. In the Commentaries of Caesar wee find their Commonwealth diuided into foure Communities whereof one namely that of Zurech had not long before ouerthrown the Army of Lucius Cassius Consul of Rome About this time the Sweitzers weary of their barren seat attempted to seeke a new place of dwelling had not Caesar ouercome them and contained them at home And from that time to the daies of Charles the Great and so long as his race possessed the renewed Empire of the West they were still esteemed Galles but when that imperiall dignity fell to the Germans they became subiects to those Emperours and were numbred among the Germans hauing the same manners lawes and customes with them as at this day they haue The Emperours gouerned this Nation by Gouernours vulgarly called Reichs vogt till at last the Common-wealth of the Sweitzers was seuered from that of the Germans and made a free state which in the age before ours hath gotten great reputation And here it is worthy to be obserued that the ambition of Popes and their diuellish tyranny ouer the Emperours not onely after some eight hundred yeeres from Christ caused almost all the Garboyles of States whereof we haue heard or read or which with our owne eyes wee haue
them as the barring of this freedome which then seemed more easie or lesse difficult to the King of England then to any other neighbour Prince or I will boldly say to all other neighbour Princes ioined together against them they hauing strength of their owne to maintaine that freedome by Sea and being able with the onely support of Britany to defend themselues by land against all other Enemies For they had onely three passages to Sea one by Vlishing in Zeland another by Brill vpon the South-west Coast of Holland and a third narrow passage by the Iland Fly to the Tassell on the North-east side of Holland whereof the two first were guarded by the said two strong Cities with the Forts belonging to them all kept by Garrisons of English Souldiers and the stopping or restraining of the third seemed lesse difficult to the Nauy of Britany then to the power of any other Enemy At this time when I passed through these parts of which time I write the vnited Prouinces much complained of the English for taking their goods at Sea hindering their free traffick wherein they should haue considered that they caused the warre with Spaine which we bore onely to second them And if our Merchants were forced to leaue the trafficke of Spaine where they had great freedome and amitie onely for their sakes how could they thinke it iust and equal that they should freelie supplie Spaine with food and necessaries for warre so as the very commodities of England could not then be vented into Spaine but onely by Flemmish and some few Scottish ships and Marriners except they desired to make the warre Eternall by which they onely grew rich in which case our proiect was more iust who for a time made war that we might after liue in peace And whereas they then complained that not only prohibited wares carried to prohibited places but also other their commodities carried to friends were spoiled by our men of war which perhaps through the insolency of Captaines and Souldiers might sometimes happen no doubt these iniuries were rare and neuer borne with by the Queene or inferiour Magistrates and they could not bee ignorant how hardly the insolency of Souldiers can be restrained by land much more by sea For all good Englishmen I may professe that they abstaining from prohibited traffick no good Englishmen wished good successe or impunity to any English ships exercising piracy especially against so neare confederates These complaints I well remember to haue been at that time frequent in those parts I know not how since appeased or continuing And because the Q. of England had disbursed much treasure for their safety which they were bound to repay at the end of the warre and threatned to deduct these spoiles out of the same many then feared lest this difference might in processe of time breed discord between England and those Prouinces Also because the Townes and Forts giuen to the Queene as pledges for money disbursed were then kept with weake Garrisons ouer-topped in number by the very Citizens it was then thought that the States might take them by force if our Gouernours had not watchfull eye vpon their dessignes and changes of counsell In generall good men on both sides are to wish the continuance of Peace betweene England and these Prouinces by which both Common-wealths haue long had and may still haue vnspeakable benefit and that the rather because we neuer yet had warre but perpetual amity together neither can any war proue more bloudy or mischieuous to either part then that betweene our selues To conclude happie be the makers cursed the breakers of our peace FINIS 1591. Stode Hamburg Lubeck Luneburg Magdenburg Leipzig Witteberg Torg Misen Dresden Friburg Prage 1592. Nurnberg Augsburg Vlme Lindaw Costnets Schaffhausen Zurech Baden Bazell Strasburg Heidelberg Spire Wormz Franckfort Cassiles Brunswike Humburge Breme Oldenburg Emdex Ann. 1592. Dockam Lewerden Froniker Harlingen Enchusen Amsterdam Harlam Leyden Leyden An. 1593. Delph Brill Roterodam Dort Getrudenberg Bergenapzome Midleburg Vlishing The Hage Lausdune This yeere fell in a lying and supersitious age An. 1593. V'tretcht Fly Coppenhagen Roschild Fredericksburg Elsinure An. 1593. Meluin Dantzke Crakaw Vienna Paduoa An. 1594. Anno. 1594. Ferraria Bologna Rauenna Rimini Pesaro Anconae I. oreto Let the Reader beleeue as he list Woe to him that lelecues Woe to him that beleeues This Image neuer rested till it came into the Popes Territory where it is not more helpefull to others then profitable to the Pope and Church men Behold how holy these walles of bricke are which cannot abide the impure touch of Marble Rome Capua Naples Rome Anno 1594. Pistoia Lucca Pisa. Florence vulgarly Fiorenza Pratoline San ' Casciano Thus in English Pobe Ioane This monument as I heard was defaced in the time of Pope Clement the eighth then liuing Anno 1594 Nou. 18. Genoa Paula Milano Cremona Mantua Paduoa Ar. 1595. Vicenza Verona Brescia ' Bergamo Solothurn Losanna Geneua Berne Monwick Nanzi Metz. Anno. 1595. Chalons Paris Fontain-bleau Roane Dieppe Anno 1595. Inspruck Trent Our iourney from Venice to Ierusalem Anno 1596. Aprill Anno 1596. Raguza Cephalonia Zante Candia Cyprus Ioppa Lydda Ramma The house of the good thiefe Modon David and Goliah Ierusalem Christs birth Nine Sects of Christians 1. The Frankes 2. The Georgians 3. The Greekes 4. The Serians 5. The Costi 6. The Abisines 7. The Armenians The Nestorians 9. The Maronites Iune 14. Ann. 1596. Casaria Antipatris Carmel Achon Tyrc Sarepta Sydon Lybanus Barutti Biblis Tripoli Huss Hamath Iune 29. Haleppo The last of Iune Antioch Byland Iuly 4. Anno 1596. Scanderona Tarsus Scanderona Octo. 19. An. 1596. The Iland of Candia The Iland of Candia The Laborinth The City Candia The City Candia December 20. Zantorini Paros Naxos Zio Seuen Churches Pathmos Metelene Troy Tenedos Sestes Abydes Gallipolis Marmora Aloni Ianua 1. Anno 1597. Palormo Heraclea Constantinople Ann. 1597. Selebris Erylis Marmora Gallipolis Two Castles Tenedos Lemnos Metelene Zio Smirna Andros Athens Delos Citherea Zante March 30. Ann. 1597. Cefalonia Corfu Raguza Il Cornaro Venice Iuly 10 an 1597. Aprill Ann. 1598. Edenborow Lethe Of the diuers Monies of England Of the diuers moneys of Scotland Of the diuers moneys of Ireland Of the diuers moneys of Germany Generally At Stoade and those parts At Emden At Breme Oldenburg and those parts At Brunswicke At Misen and those parts In vpper Germany In generall Diuers moneys of Bohemta Diuers moneyes of Sweitzerland Of the diuers Coynes of the Low-Countreys Of the diuers moneys of Denmark Of the diuers moneys of Poland Of the diuers moneys of Italy In generall At Venice At Ferrara At Bologna At Pesara At Ancona At Rome At Naples At Fiorenza In Liguria At Milane In Piemont At Mantua The diuers moneys of Turkey At Zante At Candia At Cyprus At Ierusalem At Tripoli At Constantinople Of the diuers moneys of France The difference of miles Italian English Irish. Scottish French German
our would not moue for any blowes wee gaue it then according to the fashion wee cast the dog into the aforesaid Lake and when he was drawne out he began by little and little to moue and at last being come to his senses ranne away as if he had been madde The common sort attribute this to the blessing giuen to the water by the Saint of which it is named but nothing is more cleere then that the sprinkling of any water will reuiue the spirits choked with any ill vapour Besides many haue tried that liuing things cast into that caue and held there for longer time then is vsuall could neuer be fetched againe to life by this or any other water They report that a French Gentleman of Tournan trying to fetch a stone out of this caue beyond the aforesaid signe paied for his curiosity by vnrecouerable death And that the French King Charles the eight commanding an Asse to be thrust into this caue the beast could neuer be fetched to life againe And that don Iohn base sonne of the Emperour Charles the fifth forced a Gally-slaue to goe into this caue and he falling dead forced another slaue to fetch him out who likewise fell dead and that hee killed the third slaue with his owne hand because hee refused to fetch out his two dead fellowes Many cast frogs into this caue and except they presently leape back this vapour kills them which is said to rise out of Mines of Brimstone and other mettals Into the foresaid Lake they cast flax which will be sleeped in that water in 14 houres though it lies vsually two weekes in other waters And this water though cold to touch yet seemes to boile The Earthquakes and flames breaking out of these Mountaines by the vapours inclosed gaue the Poets occasion to faine that Giants were buried vnder them Not farre hence are the wholesome baths vulgarly called I bagni d'Agnano which kind of baths are very frequent in this part Heere lie the ruines of a great Village of Lucullus and Writers affirme that hee brought the Sea water into the foresaid Lake cutting the passage through Mountaines Here also are the ruines of the Village of Cicero which retaine the old name and the Emperour Adrian dying at Bait was buried here and his successor Anthony here built a Temple to him Vpon the top of a Mountaine neere this place is a round field like a Market-place vulgarly called o Solfataria which Strabo cals Forum vulcani Pliny writes that of old this place was called Campi Flecrci It is of an Ouall forme somewhat more long then broad hauing 1500 foote in length and 1000 in breadth being compassed on all sides with Mountaines except the enterance lying towards Pozzoli All the earth is hollow and being beaten with a mans foote soundeth like an emptie vessell and not only the earth by the Brimstone is made yellow but it made our bootes and shooes of the same colour with walking vpon it yea when I cast a piece of siluer vpon the ground it was presently made yellow and with no rubbing could be made white againe In this Ouall Market place as I may call it there is a short and narrow ditch of water which is almost round and the water thereof boyles as if fire were vnder it They say if any thing be cast into it that it will be sodden in short space but some part of it will be consumed and Leander reports that one cast foure egges into it and presently tooke three fully sodden but the fourth was consumed Also he witnesseth that this little ditch is not alwaies in one place but in time workes it selfe from one place to another in this circuite and yet is neuer greater and that the old ditch is filled presently with new matter An horseman cannot well come to this place and as the same Leander writes an horse man comming boldly thither was swallowed vp into the hollow earth And that the strange heate of this water may appeare one of the Viceroyes Guard a Duchman and comming hither according to their fashion to guide his Countrey men my consorts told vs that one of his fellowes not long before comming in like sort as hee did to guide his Countrimen hither either being carelesse or rather as it is most probable hauing drunke too much and not guiding his feete well by chance stumbled into this ditch and when one of his friends tooke him by the hand to pull him out that he pulled of all the skinne from his hand and that after better aduice they pulled him out with a cloake flung about him but that within few daies he died neither could the Phisitians giue him any remedy or promise any hope of his life At the foote of the Mountaine there is a hole where the vapours with their owne motion continually cast vp little stones and stinking smelles but if any man moue these vapours by a staffe or any thing put into the hole the more they are stirred the greater stones they cast vp yea flames of fire sometimes There bee some cottages neere this place where they make Brimstone and all these parts smell of brimstone and if the winde blow from hence towards Naples the stinke thereof may bee smelled thither On all sides here be Baths of wholesome waters which of old were famous After we had passed huge ruines of old buildings we came at the foot of a mountaine to the City p Pozzoli of old famous and called Puteolis to which all these ruines are said to haue belonged of old and it had the name of the Latin word Puteus as also it hath the present name from the Italian tong of the wels which are frequent I say it hath the present name of the Italian word Pozzo signifying a well though some will haue it named presently of Puzzo which signifies a stink because of the smell of brimstone in these parts but the city being most ancient cannot haue the old name of an Italian word and it is certaine that the Roman Princes of old vsed this part for the place of their recreation for the great sweetnes of the Country and the plenty of medicinall waters whereupon they gaue it the first name Others say that it was of old called Diciarchiam but at this day it is called Pozzoli or Puzzoli Here we dined and were forced to giue our swords to the Host there being a great penalty set vpon any that carry their Armes The City hath nothing worth the seeing but the old Church first built to Heathen Idols and after by Christians dedicated to Saint Proculus and it hath the names of the workemen that built it grauen vpon it and there be shewed the bones of a Giant of wonderfull bignes The Hauen of this City was of old very commodious but by negligence is growne of no vse Here the sea entring betweene two Mountaines was of old called the Creeke of P Baie of that Citie seated on the opposite shore or
wherein the great Obeliske was brought from AEgypt and vpon piles heaped vp placed a most high Tower like to the Pharo of Alexandria out of which light was hung out by night to direct the ships c. When Traian repaired this Hauen the Citie Portuensis was built on the other side of Tyber towards the South-East in the soile of Toscany the Bishop whereof is one of the seuen Cardinals assistant to the Pope The branch of Tyber falling from Hostia and diuiding it selfe maketh an Iland compassed with the sea on the other side in which are many ruines of stately houses and great stones of Marble This Hauen seeming of no vse and barred vp for the securitie of Rome from any Nauall siege the onely Port that Rome hath is called Citta'vecchia seated vpon the shoare of Tuscany betweene the foresaid Hostia and Ligorno the chiefe Hauen of the Duke of Florence In this hauen of Rome of old called Centum Cellae and after ruined by the Saracens and after built againe the Popes of Rome possessing many places in the neighbour soile of Toscany did build a strong Castle and called it Citta Vecchia I returned from Ostia to Rome the same day and paied fiue giulij for my Mule and two for my dinner I had purposed to see the famous Garden of the Cardinall of Ferraria at Tiuoli whereof I spake in my iourney to Naples but Easter was now at hand and the Priests came to take our names in our lodging and when wee demaunded the cause they told vs that it was to no other end but to know if any receiued not the Cummunion at that holy time which when we heard wee needed no spurres to make haste from Rome into the state of Florence Onely I had an obstinate purpose to see Bellarmine To which end hauing first hired a horse and prouided all things necessary for my iourney to Sienna and hauing sent away my consorts to stay for me with my horse and boots at an Inne in the Suburbs that I might more speedily escape if my purpose succeeded not I boldly went to the Iesuites Colledge and Bellermine then walking in the fields I expected his returne at the gate the Students telling me that he would presently come backe which falling out as they said I followed him into the Colledge being attired like an Italian and carefull not to vse any strange gestures yea forbearing to view the Colledge or to looke vpon any man fully lest I should draw his eyes vpon me Thus I came into Bellermines chamber that I might see this man so famous for his learning and so great a Champion of the Popes who seemed to me not aboue forty yeeres old being leane of body and something low of stature with a long visage and a little sharpe beard vppon the chin of a browne colour and a countenance not very graue and for his middle age wanting the authority of grey heires Being come into his chamber and hauing made profession of my great respect to him I told him that I was a French man and came to Rome for performance of some religious vowes and to see the monuments especially those which were liuing and among them himselfe most especially earnestly intreating to the end I might from his side returne better instructed into my Countrey that he would admit me at vacant houres to enioy his graue conuersation He gently answering and with grauity not so much swallowing the praises I gaue him as shewing that my company should be most pleasing to him commanded his Nouice that he should presently bring me in when I should come to visit him and so after some speeches of curtesie he dismissed me who meant nothing lesse then to come againe to him The very same hower at ten in the morning vpon the Tuseday before Easter I came to my consorts in the Suburbes and presently we tooke horse after a short breakefast The way from Rome to Sienna is thus vulgarly noted A Borgetto sixe miles a l' Isole one a Bacchano sixe a Monterose fiue a Sutri foure a Roneignone three a lago di vigo one a viterbo seuen a Monte fiaschoni seuen a Bolsena seuen a San ' Lorenzo foure a Acquapendente sixe a Recorseto a la Paglia twelue a Scanciericho foure a Buon ' Conuento seuen a Saraualle foure a San ' Michaele de la Seala sixe a Sienna sixe In all from Rome to Sienna ninetie sixe miles I will follow my Italian consorts in describing this iourney who doe not much differ from this vulgar number of miles each of vs paid fifteene paoli for his horse from Rome to Scienna and we had but one Vetturine who went with vs on foote for the Italians vse to ride a slow pace and he was to bring back our horses and to pay for their meat and for his owne The first day after breakfast we rode twentie two miles to Monterose through fruitfull hilles of Corne and some wilde barren fields and Woods at our iournies ende After wee had rode fiue miles we came to a monument lying vpon the high way and called the Sepulcher of Nero in the place where hee killed himselfe when the Senate had condemned him And when we came to the little Towne Bachano I obserued the mountaines to compasse it in the forme of a Theater with a Lake in the middest like the mountaine Astrumo neere Naples Out of this Lake comes a Brooke called Cremera vpon the banke whereof three hundred Fabij with fiue thousand of their followers of old were killed in one day Bacchano of old called Campagnano hath the name of Bacchus And it giues the name to the Territory and to the Wood neere it which is infamous for roberies Monterose is subiect to Pope Clement the eighth then liuing his Nephew so they call their bastards and though it be seated within the old confines of Hetruria yet now it is vnder the Popes dominion Here we supped at an Ordinarie vulgarly Al pasto and each man paied foure giulij and all the company complaining that so much was demaunded for our supper the Hoste so thundred among vs like the bragging souldier as he soone made both strangers and Italians glad to be quiet The second day in the morning we rode eight miles to Lago diVigo where we broke our fast vpon reckoning vulgarly al conto and each man paied eight baocchi After breakfast wee rode foureteene miles to a little Citie Monte fiaschoni hauing passed by the way the Citie Viterbo where Pope Caelestine the third placed a Bishop and made it a Citie Of old it was gouerned by Princes borne in the Towne till vpon ciuill dissention betweene the Family of Gatti aided by the Roman Family Colonna and the Family Magancesi aided by the Roman Family Orsini the Pope brought the Citie into his subiection about the yeere 1446. A most high Mountaine lies neere Viterbo bearing Chesnuts and a great Wood of Oaks infamous for robberies where we did see many quarters of theeues
hanging vpon the trees The way to Viterbo was through a fruitfull Plaine of corne and beyond this Mountaine were store of Oliue trees Vines Viterbo was of old called Faliscum and it hath 3 Cities within the wals but we passing suddenly through it I obserued nothing markeable but a faire Fountaine in the Market-place The way from thence was through a fruitfull Plaine of Corne to the said little Citie Montefiaschoni seated vpon a high Hill at the foote whereof begins the Lake of Bolsena and it is subiect to the Pope hauing no singular thing in it but the white and red Muskedine one of the most famous Wines in Italy Here we three Consorts had two beds for ten baochi and we supped vpon reckoning and each man paied two giulij The third day in the morning we rode eight miles by the Lake Bolsena through a Plaine of Corne hauing woody Hilles of Oakes not farre distant with store of Chessenut and Oliue trees In this Lake there is an Iland which the Queene Amalasuenta famous for her wisdome was killed by the commaund of the King of the Ostrogothes And in the Castle of Balsena they shew a piece of bread consecrated for the Lords Supper which being in the hand of a Priest not beleeuing that it was the very body of Christ did shed bloud as they say who haue many such lying Miracles Then we rode sixe miles to the Castle Acquapendente through a plaine of Corne where each man paied one giulio for his dinner vpon reckoning After dinner we rode through wilde Mountaines bearing little Corne twelue miles to the Brooke Paglia running vnder the Castle Redicofani and diuiding the States of the Pope and the Duke of Florence and we rode further in the State of Florence foure miles to a Country Inne as I thinke called Scancicricho where each man paied three poali and a half for his supper at an Ordinarie vulgarly Al pasto hauing almost nothing but red Herrings and Sallets to supper The fourth day in the morning vpon the last day of Aprill after the new stile in the yeere 1594 wee rode thirteene miles to a Countrey Inne through high Hilles of Corne and for the greater part very firtile where each man paied seuen baochi for his breakefast The same day we rode eighteene miles to Sienna through most pleasant Hilles and a firtile Plaine of Corne with store of Vines on each side and many Pallaces of Gentlemen so they call their houses built of Free-stone with a low roofe and small magnificence and most frequent dwellings of husbandmen We came to Sienna the Friday before Easter day and in a publike Inne each man paied three reali for his Supper The next day I went to Fiorenza for money and rode through Woods and fruitful Hils to the Castle Poggio walled townes being called Castles and after through stony Mountaines bearing Corne and Oliues till I came to the Village Tauernelle being seuenteene miles from Sienna where I paied two reali for my dinner vpon reckoning After dinner I rode fifteene miles to Fiorenza through stony little Mountaines bearing great store of Oliues Almonds and Chessenuts and many Poplar trees and towards our iourneyes end store of Cedar trees and wee passed by innumerable Pallaces of Gentlemen and a most faire Monastery called la Certosa and a desert Rocke vpon the top whereof an Heremite dwelt all alone This Territorie yeeldes great store of Pine-trees the boughes whereof are thicke and round at the top but the rest of the tree hath neither boughes nor leaues and it yeelds a very great Nut with very many kernels in one shell which are pleasant in taste and much vsed here in Banquets By the way I did meete a Dutch Lady with her Gentlewomen and men-seruants all in the habit of Franciscan Friers and not onely going on foote but also bare-footed through these stonie waies and because they were all aswell men as women in Friers weeds though I looked on them with some suspicion yet I knew not their sexe or qualitie till vpon inquirie at Florence I vnderstood that the Dutchesse of Fiorenza or Florente hearing that some women were passed by in Friers apparrell and thinking they were Nunnes stolne out of their Cloisters did cause them to bee brought backe vnto her and so vnderstood that vpon pennance imposed on them by their Confessour for the satisfaction of their sinnes they were enioyned to goe in that Friers habit bare-footed to Rome whereupon she dismissed them with honour I forgot to note what I paid for my horse from Sienna to Florence whether we came vpon Easter day and there I lodged in the Dutch Inne and paid three reali each meale But I did not at this time view the Citie deferring it till my returne The next morning I tooke my iourney to Pisa that by often remouing I might shun all question of my religion into which they vse more strictly to inquire at this time of the yeere when they vse to obserue who receiues not the Sacrament for howsoeuer there be lesse danger of the Inquisition in this State yet the Duke vsing not and scarce being able to protect those that rashly giue open offence I thought good thus warily to auoide these snares I went this iourney on foot meaning leisurely to see the next Cities so little distant one from the other as they were pleasant iourneys on foot especially in so pleasant a Countrie The first day in the morning I walked ten miles to the Castle Prato through the pleasant Valley of the Riuer Arno. This pleasant Castle or walled Towne is of a round forme hauing at the very enterance a large Market place wherein stands a faire Cathedrall Church adorned with many stones of marble and here I paied twelue creitzers for my dinner In the afternoone I walked ten Italian short miles to the City Pistoia through a most pleasant plaine called the Valley of Arno tilled after the manner of Lombardy bearing Corne and Wine in the same field all the Furrowes being planted with Elmes vpon which the Vines grow This Citie is seated in a Plaine and compassed with Mountaines which on other sides are somewhat distant but on the North-side hang ouer the same and here as likewise at Prato and Florence the streetes are paued with broad free stone most casie to walke vpon And the Cathedrall Church is stately built and the pauement is of Marble curiously wrought like the Church of Sienna The Citie hath the name in the Latin tongue as also in the Italian of a plague which inuaded the Citie when the Troopes of the Rebell Catilina being ouercome fled thither whose posteritie being seated there hath nourished a greater plague by perpetual factions shewing thereby of what race they came Desiderius King of Lombardy compassed the Citie with a wall After the Florentines about the yeere 1150 subdued this chiefe Citie of Hetruria vnder whose gouernement first the faction of the Neri and the Bianehi brake out and defiled the
through any village I should be sure to be taken kept prisoner till I should pay a great fine whereupon I presently cast away this bough with many thankes to him for his gentle warning How Florence came to be subiect to the House of Medici with the title of Great Duke I must hereafter shew in the discourse of the Florentine Common-wealth At this time I will set downe as briefly as I can the discription of the City and fields adioining It is a most sweet City and abounding with wealth the Citizens are much commended for their curtesie modesty grauity purity of language and many virtues The City is innobled with the Dukes Court and with stately Pallaces built within and without the wals and for the stately buildings sweet situation it is worthily called Florence the beautifull vulgarly Fiorenza la bella It is said to haue had the name Florentia in Latin either of the Fluentini a neighbour people of whom they come or of the perpetuall happines into which it grew like a flower or of the Citizens wealth and the Cities beauty flourishing like a flower The pauement of the City is not of flint as at Rome nor of bricke as at Sienna but of very broad and faire free stone The houses after the manner of Italy are built with a low roofe excepting the Pallaces which are stately built of free stone engrauen The windowes as in all the Cities of Italy excepting Venice alone are not glased but either lie altogether open to take aire or are couered with oyled paper and linnen cloth The streetes are most broad and haue an open aire In discribing the Citie I will begin without the walles And first towards the North and East it is compassed with pleasant Hills planted with excellent fruit trees and lying in the forme of an Amphitheater and behind them the high Mountaines of the Apenine somewhat remoued are instead of strong walles to the Citie Also on the South side it hath like Hilles and distant Mountaines but towards the West it lies open to the most pleasant Valy of Arno which Valy continueth as farre as Pisa and to the sea-side On all sides without the walles Pallaces of Gentlemen are most frequent and houses of Citizens not distant aboue three or foure closes one from the other whereupon the Emperour Charles the fifth beholding the Citie and the Countrey from a high steeple affirmed that Florence was the greatest Citie in the whole world and when hee perceiued that the standers by 〈◊〉 doubtfull of his meaning he added that in good earnest he reputed all the Pallaces without the walles compassed with Hilles and Mountaines as with walles to bee within the circuit of the Citie It is seated as it were in the Center of Italy betweene the aire of Arezzo producing quick wits where Peter Aretine the Poet was borne of a sharp wit though hee abused it wantonly and the aire of Pisa lesse pure and yeelding men of strong memory so as it hath had by this temperature of aire many Citizens as well sharpe to learne sciences as strong to retaine them The Riuer Arno running from East to West diuides the Citie but into vnequall parts the farre greater part lying on the North-side and the lesse on the South-side and the bridge to passe from one to the other is almost in the very middest of the City which is fairely built yet is more magnified by strangers then it deserues It hath little houses vpon it where with it is couered and vpon each side are Gold-smithes shops which make small or no shew at ordinarie times but when the Duke Ferdinando brought his Dutchesse the Daughter of the Duke of Loraine to the Citie at her enterance those shops were furnished with vessels of siluer and many rich Iewels yet borowed of the Citizens to that purpose And howsoeuer some strangers may wonder at it yet they who compare that bridge with the bridge of London or those Gold-smiths shops with the daily shew of the Gold-smiths in Cheape-side shall finde no cause to wonder thereat The bridge hath two hundred twentie eight walking paces in length and is built vpon seuen Arches There bee three other bridges ouer Arno but farre lesse in bignesse and magnificence then the former for the Riuer is shallow scarce couering the sand or stones though beyond the Citie it be increased with other waters and is subiect to ouer-flowing vpon any great raine The Citie is of a round forme and vpon the walles thereof lie eight Fortes whereof the greatest and strongest lies towards the South And the farre greater part of the Citie on the North side of the Riuer lies in a Plaine but in the lesse part on the South side of the Riuer the houses towards the North-East are built vpon the sides of Mountaines and the dwellings are more scattered hauing many and large Gardens and in that part there is a place vulgarly called le Ruinate that is the ruinous because the houses haue been often ruined by Earthquakes and there you shall find this inscription in Latin Duke Cosmo in the yeere 1533 forbad the houses of this Mountaine to be rebuilt which thrice fell by the fault of the soyle Neere that place lies a lane vnpaued in memory of a Virgin that dwelt there whom a yong man loued who was borne of a Family of a contrarie faction to hers betweene whom many cruelties had been exercised and they mutually louing each other despairing to get their friends consent for mariage and at last being impatient of delay resolued with what danger soeuer to meet together But it happened that the yong man being to ascend into the Virgins Chamber by a ladder was surprised who to saue the reputation of the Virgin confessed that he came to rob the house whereupon he was condemned to die and being led to execution by the house where the Virgin dwelt she laying aside all shame came running out with her loose haire about her eares and embracing him confessed the truth publikly with which accident both their parents were so moued as laying aside all former malice they contracted affinity and the young man deliuered from the bonds of the hangman was tied to her in the sweet bond of marriage And of this wonderfull euent the Florentines thought good to keepe this memorie for posteritie The Duke hath two Pallaces within the City whereof one is called Pallazzo di Pitti seated in this part of the City which a Gentleman of Florence by name Lucca della Casa de Pitti began to build but falling into pouerty and not able to finish it was forced to sel the same to Cosmo de Medicis being Great Duke of Florence and shortly after conuicted of treason was beheaded This is the most stately Pallace in the Citie in the Garden whereof called Belueder are many most sweete shades among pleasant Groues together with a pleasant Caue and Fountaine They say that one Mule did bring all the matter to this building
in memorie whereof these verses are written vpon the picture of the said Mule Lecticam lapides marmora ligna Columnas Vexit conduxit traxit ista tulit The Litter these stones marbles pillers wood Did carry leade draw beare this Mule so good The outward side of the Pallace is of Free-stone engrauen and the Ornaments within are Regall Betweene the two Chambers wherein the Duke and the Dutchesse lie apart is a very faire Gallery and in the chamber of the Dutchesse is a second bed most like her owne for the Duke when he pleaseth to lie there and there is a Table wrought with siluer and pretious stones valued at 3000 Crownes In the dining roome are many faire statuaes and the figure of thirty Cardinals chosen at one time by Pope Leo the tenth being of the house of Medici In the very Court are two great loadstones The strong Fort called Saint Meniato lies ouer this Pallace and indeede ouer all the Citie which was built by Alexander de Medicis nephew to Pope Clement the seuenth and had lately been kept by a Garison of two thousand Spaniards as likewise another Fort on the other side of Arno built in the time of the free State was likewise kept by a Garison of 100 Spaniards For the Dukes of Medici aduanced to their Dukedome by the Emperor Charles the fifth did at first admit these Garisons of Spaniards vnder an Italian Captaine either to shew their confidence in Spaine or to fortifie themselues against the Citizens whose libertie they had inuaded but Duke Ferdinand then liuing the Families of Citizens being now extinct or suppressed who had liued in the free state and could not indure subiection being now confirmed in his Dukedome had lately effected that these Spaniards should yeeld the Fortes to him and depart the Countrey Vpon the North-side of the Riuer Arno and vpon the banke thereof is a monument of a horse buried in the high way with this inscription in Latin The bones of the horse of Charles Capelli Venetian Ambassador when the Citie was besieged in the yeere 1533. And these verses were added Non ingratus herus Sonopes memorande sepulchrum Hoc tibi promeritis haec monumenta dedit Praise worthy horse of warre thy thankfull Lord Thee for thy merits doth this Tombe afford The Citie hath diuers Market-places 1. Mercato Vecchio 2. S. Spirito 3. Santa Croce 4. S. Maria Nouella 5. Plazza della Signoria which is the fairest and largest of all the rest and therein is the Senators Pallace and many stately statuas one of a virgin taken by force and of the rauisher beating her keeper treading him vnder his feet another of Hercules treading Cacus vnder his feet for the Florentines beare Hercules in their great Seale the third of Dauid all which are of white Marble the fourth of Perseus carrying in one hand the head of Medusa vpon his Shield and treading the bulk of her body vnder his feet curiously wrought in brasse In the same Market-place is a most faire Fountaine set round about with faire statuaes of brasse and in the midst thereof the statuaes of a Giant and of three horses almost couered with water all wrought in white marble do power the waters out of their mouthes into the Cesterne In the corner of this market place is the Senators Pallace so called because the Senate was wont to meete there in time of the free State but now it is the Dukes pallace the second that he hath within the Citie Therein I saw a Cat of the Mountaine not vnlike to a dog with the head of a black colour and the back like an hedghog a light touch wherof gaue a very sweet sent to my gloues Here they shewed vs as they vse to shew to curious strangers the Dukes Treasure as they cal it namely vessels of gold and siluer Roses hallowed by the Pope which these Princes hold for rich presents many chambers and galleries hauing a sweet prospect vpon the Arno and adorned with pictures and statuaes notable for the matter art and price a most faire looking glasse a Theater for Comedies one table of Porphery valued at fiue hundred Crownes another of Iasper stone valued at foure hundred Crownes a table then in the workmans hands vnperfected the Iewels wherof they valued at fiftie thousand Crownes and the workmanship at twelue thousand Crownes Moreouer they shewed vs the pictures of the Popes of the house of Medici rich swords and hats and a lather of siluer to mount into the Coach and many notable antiquities and certaine birds of India with many other beautifull things which they vse to shew to curious strangers and for the same expect some reward of them in curtesie Among other things I wondered to see there the picture of Flizabeth our famous Queene but the Duke of Florence much esteemed her picture for the admiration of her vertues how soeuer the malitious Papists had long endeuoured to obscure her fame especially in those remote parts whose slaunders God turned to her greater glory Here they did shew vs the great Dukes study called Il studiol ' del gran Duca in which wee did see most faire pictures two chests of Christall guilded ouer diuers statuaes not of brasse but of mixt mettals shining here like siluer there like gold a cup of Amber a little Mountaine of pearles wrought together by the hands of Duke Francis a Pyramis of Pearles as they grow in oyster-shels two kniues set with Iewels and a third Indian knife a naile halfe turned into gold by Torneser an Alchumist the other part still remaining Iron a piece of gold vnpolished as it was digged out of the Mines two pictures of Flemings whereof one was valued at fiue hundred the other at eight hundred Crownes a clock of Amber a piece of Amber falling vpon a Lizard and retaining the liuely forme thereof a stone called Vergoara that cureth poyson the head of a Turke all of pure gold a most beautifull head of a Turkish woman a Table of gold and of Iasper stone and other Iewells among which one Emerald of a perfect greene colour was highly valued being round and almost as big as an egge for they that kept it reputed it worth one hundred thousand Crownes Not farre thence is a Pallace of the noble Family of Strozzi and another of Alxeander great Duke of Florence wherein is a ruined chamber in which certaine conspirator killed him In the stately Church of S. Maria del 〈◊〉 are many most faire statuaes and the pauement and outward parts of the walles aswell of the Church as of the steeple are of carued Marble And here are kept three triple Crownes of three Popes of the Family of Medici The tower or steeple is very high in the ascent are 3 galleries round about the outside and it is all stately built of Marble hauing foure hundred fortie and nine staires to the first gallerie In which being most faire and all of Marble the Emperor